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26 | March 5, 2020 | the frankfort station dining out<br />

frankfortstationdaily.com<br />

The Dish<br />

Family-run gyros restaurant celebrates 25 years in Lockport<br />

Benjamin Conboy<br />

Contributing Editor<br />

One day in 1995, Nicky Theodossopoulos<br />

called his son Tim’s<br />

high school.<br />

He told them the gyros restaurant<br />

he just opened in Lockport<br />

had a line out the front door. The<br />

cops were there directing traffic,<br />

because there were so many customers,<br />

even at a time when the<br />

surrounding area was still mostly<br />

farmland.<br />

Nicky needed Tim to leave<br />

school and come to work.<br />

Twenty-five years later, not<br />

much has changed at Nicky’s<br />

Gyros. Though Nicky died 10<br />

years ago, the restaurant that is<br />

his namesake lives on with his<br />

three children at the helm.<br />

Tim and his two sisters, Sophie<br />

Theodossopoulos and Genie<br />

Hart, have worked at the restaurant<br />

every day since 1995.<br />

Sophie now has two children<br />

of her own who work there, and<br />

it is her son’s dream to open up<br />

his own gyros shop.<br />

Genie’s husband, Mark, also<br />

helps at the restaurant. One day,<br />

the Harts’ 3-year-old son —<br />

named Nick after Genie’s father<br />

— may work there, too.<br />

“It’s a real family affair,” Hart<br />

said. “And we’d like to keep it<br />

that way.”<br />

Despite working in close quarters<br />

with their siblings day in and<br />

day out for 25 years, the trio say<br />

they rarely encounter squabbles<br />

as brothers and sisters tend to do.<br />

“Thank God we don’t get into<br />

it,” Genie said. “If we have a<br />

disagreement, we try to talk. We<br />

don’t though. If we need to make<br />

a decision, we talk about it, but<br />

we all usually agree.”<br />

The siblings continue to use<br />

the philosophy of restaurant<br />

stewardship that their father outlined<br />

for them decades ago.<br />

“He was into quality; he always<br />

believed in quality,” Sophie<br />

said. “We never changed<br />

recipes or brands.”<br />

Their gyros ($5.80) are still<br />

“It’s a real family<br />

affair. And we’d<br />

like to keep it that<br />

way.”<br />

Genie Hart — co-owner of<br />

Nicky’s Gyros<br />

Nicky’s Gyros<br />

903 E. 9th St. in Lockport<br />

Hours<br />

• 10:30 a.m.-9 p.m.<br />

Monday-Thursday, Saturday<br />

• 10:30 a.m.-9:30 p.m.<br />

Friday<br />

• 11 a.m.-8 p.m. Sunday<br />

Phone: (815) 838-0600<br />

made with the same recipe for<br />

tzatziki sauce that the elder Theodossopoulos<br />

crafted. They still<br />

marinate their own chicken and<br />

make the chicken noodle soup<br />

($3.39) with a special twist they<br />

declined to disclose to avoid it<br />

being poached by another restaurant.<br />

They still use the same<br />

Grecian Delight top-quality gyros<br />

cones that were served on<br />

opening day.<br />

“If you look at the ingredients<br />

for our gyros, there’s no fillers,”<br />

Sophie said. “There’s no bonding.<br />

You can pronounce all of the<br />

words. So, when people ask why<br />

our gyros are so expensive, it’s<br />

because we [buy the best meat].”<br />

Even though the roots of<br />

Nicky’s Gyros remain firmly<br />

grounded in their father’s philosophy,<br />

they have made some<br />

changes over the years to modernize<br />

the restaurant.<br />

When Nicky’s Gyros was remodeled<br />

15 years ago, they added<br />

a drive-thru and a computerized<br />

ordering system, changing<br />

the ins and outs of the way the<br />

restaurant was traditionally run<br />

by their father.<br />

“The cooks have a screen<br />

The gyros ($5.80) with homemade tzatziki sauce and fresh tomatoes — along with a quarter-pound of<br />

fried zucchini ($2.60) — are the bread and butter of Nicky’s Gyros in Lockport.<br />

Photos by Benjamin Conboy/22nd Century Media<br />

Sophie Theodossopoulos (left) and her sister Genie Hart run the restaurant, as a portrait of their father,<br />

Nicky, greets customers.<br />

where they can see the orders,”<br />

Sophie said. “Before, we would<br />

have to yell it out. It used to be<br />

all by memory back in the day.<br />

You call out 10 orders, you had<br />

to remember them. Nobody can<br />

remember anything anymore.”<br />

The trio of siblings have given<br />

a lot to the restaurant over the<br />

years, but it has given something<br />

back to them, too. It has become<br />

a bond for them, a gathering<br />

point for family, and given them<br />

a mutual purpose. It serves as a<br />

reminder for the principles their<br />

late father stood for.<br />

All these years later, a portrait<br />

of Nicky still greets customers at<br />

the counter, just like he did when<br />

the restaurant opened 25 years<br />

ago.

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