Jeweller - March 2020

VOICE OF THE AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY INDUSTRY MARCH 2020 

Better together 

EXPLORING THE BENEFITS OF 

BELONGING TO A BUYING GROUP 

Primary colours 

FANCY COLOUR DIAMONDS 

CONTINUE TO CAPTIVATE CONSUMERS 

Ring the changes 

WHY THE RULES OF ENGAGEMENT 

ARE MADE TO BE BROKEN

Experience a 

sense of wonder 

Experience a sense of wonder as you immerse yourself in a wonderland of spectacular jewellery and timepieces at the 

2020 International Jewellery & Watch Fair. Be inspired by the excellence and passion in workmanship with all the latest global trends 

on display across three days of buying and selling. Identify new business opportunities while gaining knowledge and hands-on 

skill sets from industry leaders during education sessions, all under the one roof. For more information visit www.jewelleryfair.com.au 

INTERNATIONAL 

J E W ELLERY & WATCH 

FAIR 

September 12 – 14, 2020 

ICC Sydney Exhibition Centre, Darling Harbour 

WWW.JEWELLERYFAIR.COM.AU 

Organised by

Y O U R L E A D I N G S U P P L I E R O F P I N K A R G Y L E & W H I T E D I A M O N D S 

W O R L D S H I N E R 

I N S P I R E D P E R F O R M A N C E 

Y E A R A F T E R Y E A R 

W W W . W O R L D S H I N E R . C O M 

NEW SOUTH WALES Suite 301, Level 3, 70 Castlereagh Street, Sydney 2000, P: 02 9232 3557, E: sydney@worldshiner.com 

VICTORIA Suite 502, Wales Corner, 227 Collins Street, Melbourne 3000, P: 03 9654 6369, E: melbourne@worldshiner.com 

QUEENSLAND Unit 17, Level 11, 138 Albert Street, Brisbane 4000, P: 07 3210 1237 E: brisbane@worldshiner.com 

NEW ZEALAND Suite 4K, 47 High Street, Auckland P: 09 358 3443 E: nz@worldshiner.com 

A U S T R A L I A • G E R M A N Y • I N D I A • I T A L Y • J A P A N • N Z • U K • U S A

MARCH 2020 

Contents 

This Month 

Industry Facets 

22 COLOUR DIAMONDS FEATURE 

Fancy that! 

4ARABELLA RODEN explores the 

appeal of colour diamonds and the 

rainbow of opportunities for jewellers. 

7 Editor’s Desk 

8 Upfront 

12 News 

16 New Products 

Features 

18 

19 

21 

52 

54 

10 YEARS AGO 

Time Machine: March 2010 

MY STORE 

Sarah & Sebastian 

LEARN ABOUT GEMS 

Chrysoprase 

MY BENCH 

Zoë Pook 

SOAPBOX 

Louise McManus 

22 

29 

COLOUR DIAMONDS 

Flight of fancy 

ENGAGEMENT RINGS 

Otherwise engaged 

29 ENGAGEMENT RINGS FEATURE 

With this ring 

4ARABELLA RODEN discovers how 

the engagement ring category is evolving 

alongside changing consumer behaviour. 

34 

2020 BUYING GROUPS REPORT 

Strength in numbers 

Better Your Business 

46 

RETAIL STRATEGY 

RICH KIZER and GEORGANNE BENDER reveal how to learn from your competition. 

34 2020 BUYING GROUPS REPORT 

All together now 

4COLEBY NICHOLSON reports on the 

services and support offered by the four 

retail jewellery buying groups. 

48 

49 

50 

SELLING 

Your top sales staff have a lot to teach others, says JEANNIE WALTERS. 

MANAGEMENT 

DAVID BROWN reveals the three areas of your business where taking a risk pays off. 

MARKETING & PR 

Marketing and PR amplify each others’ benefits, writes WILLIAM J COMCOWICH. 

51 

LOGGED ON 

MANDY EDWARDS explains why your social media marketing may be ineffective. 

52 MY BENCH 

4 Discover which jeweller made this piece. 

FRONT COVER 

Kunming Diamonds 

Kunming Diamonds offers an 

extensive selection of premium 

natural fancy colour diamonds 

in a variety of sizes, shapes, 

and intensities. 

kunmingdiamonds.com 

March 2020 | 5

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Editor’s Desk 

Is the world ending? 

Before heading off in search of supplies to survive in an underground bunker, 

ANGELA HAN quickly revisited history for some perspective. 

Sometimes it feels as though the world is 

burning, and no-one can escape the heat. 

With the recent spate of disasters – from 

Australia’s ravenous bushfires to the 

ongoing trade wars and global spread of the 

coronavirus – you’d be forgiven for 

hopping onto the apocalyptic bandwagon. 

Traditional retailers are at the front line, 

feeling the pinch with empty high-streets and 

shopping centres. At the same time, surgical 

masks and toilet paper fly off shelves while the 

stock market bungee-jumps. You can’t help 

but ask: is the world ending? 

Fear is our first response because we perceive 

that anything ‘viral’ is simply out of our control. 

And in 2020, viruses aren’t only transmitted 

through particles, people and planes, but 

also through cables and code. It’s not just our 

immune system that’s under attack now, but 

also our sovereignty and personal security. 

Online or offline, everyone is vulnerable – so 

it’s no wonder people sometimes appear 

hysterical. 

But this isn’t new. We’ve been here before. 

Remember the Global Financial Crisis – and 

the multiple recessions before that? Or SARS 

and swine flu? 

While we’ve confronted pandemics in history, 

the difference is that today, human societies 

have become more inextricably intertwined as 

one single network through globalised trade, 

technology and transport - a perfect recipe 

to fuel mass-hysteria and spread dangerous 

illnesses faster than any other time in history. 

To put things into perspective, COVID-19 has 

taken three months to infect 110,000 people 

across 103 countries, while it took 14 years 

for the Black Plague to even reach Europe 

from East Asia along the Silk Road. 

A more interconnected world with open trade 

has also meant that any downturns become 

a shared global problem. Indeed, it’s the first 

pandemic in a social media-driven world, 

which has created further concern. 

However, in these times it is critical to 

remember that in precisely the same way 

these problems spread virally, so too do 

solutions. This is both the strength and 

weakness of our global network; we can see 

the hurricane form when a butterfly flaps 

its wings. 

Some are quick to condemn globalisation 

and highlight its vulnerabilities as we 

close borders, and censure technology for 

perpetuating miscommunication, but we 

mustn’t forget that this is the same network 

that we are using to solve the problem; these 

same systems will deliver the solutions. 

The same flight paths that flew the infection 

from city to city will be engaged to deliver 

medication and vaccines, and the same 

networks used to spread panic will spread 

reassurance and safety advice. 

Retailers have experienced this double-edged 

sword before: the same technology that was 

deemed a threat to traditional retail has also 

enabled them to offer 24/7 opening hours 

with better client communication at lower 

overheads. 

Just as we are hard-wired as humans to fear 

the unknown and the uncontrollable, we have 

evolved to tackle tough challenges. 

Today, the Black Plague is treatable with 

antibiotics which have reduced the mortality 

rate from 90 per cent to 10 per cent. In 

contrast, coronavirus has a mortality rate of 

3.48 per cent. Of the 110,000 current cases, 

a third have mild symptoms that don’t require 

hospital treatment, while more than half have 

recovered enough to be discharged. 

As you read this, doctors worldwide are 

working around the clock to treat infected 

patients, communicating and co-ordinating 

their research in real-time with other experts. 

We can now develop treatments in record time, 

thanks to technology. 

The human race has recovered from grave 

catastrophes in the past without access to 

any of the data we have available today. There 

are more tools and sources of information 

than ever at our fingertips to create, measure, 

record and share ideas. 

Outliers lead the charge when the world feels 

like it’s falling apart, much like the way white 

blood cells get to work healing our bodies 

when our immunity is compromised. Similar 

observations can be applied for our troubled 

economy - when there’s a downturn, there’s 

Just as we are 

hard-wired 

as humans 

to fear the 

unknown and 

uncontrollable, 

we have evolved 

to tackle tough 

challenges. 

always a new innovation. When times 

get tough, the tough get going! 

A self-correcting organism 

Hearts broke around the world for the 

lives lost in the fires of our recent ‘Black 

Summer’; 34 people died, 5,900 buildings 

were destroyed and it’s reported that 

1 billion animals were killed. 

The smoke affected our neighbours across 

the Pacific Ocean as 306 million tonnes of 

CO 2 

was emitted. Immediately affected were 

both large-scale chain retailers and family 

businesses that lost customers and closed 

doors for good. 

While Australia was in mourning through 

the heavy smoke, a downpour of rain fell over 

the land, extinguishing fires and alleviating 

drought. Through the blanket of ashes on 

the charred forest floors, bright green shoots 

have begun to unfurl everywhere, and locals 

have shared images of these hopeful scenes. 

Just when it felt like the world was ending, 

tiny tendrils reached out from the scorched 

destruction, signalling that life will flourish, 

once again. 

While this might not feel like much, it is 

as much hope as we need. 

An underground bunker might seem 

perfectly reasonable given the recent 

sequence of events, but it’s helpful to 

revisit history and keep things in perspective. 

Modern catastrophes have reached new 

heights, but so too have our capabilities 

to solve them. 

While the good days might feel like an age 

away, it’s never been more important as a 

business owner to be patient, persevere and 

keep events in perspective. It’s time to work 

together, increase communication and keep 

a level-head to survive. We have the choice 

to be the ashes or the phoenix. 

My humble advice in these difficult times: 

if you want to prepare yourself against the 

horsemen of the apocalypse, don’t build 

a bunker – learn to ride a horse. 

Angela Han 

Publisher 


Upfront 

Upcoming Trade Shows 

3 - 5 

APR 

9 - 12 

APR 

25 - 29 

APR 

30 - 5 

APR - MAY 

19 - 22 

JUNE 

MARCH BIRTHSTONE 

Bloodstone 

4Alongside aquamarine, bloodstone – a type of quartz – 

is the birthstone for March. Its name comes from its deep 

red hematite inclusions, which look like drops of blood. Its 

alternate name, heliotrope, means ‘to turn the sun’ in Greek, 

as it was believed that if the gem were submerged in water, 

the sun would turn red. 

The RBA is 

likely to 

recommend 

banks implement 

standard ‘leastcost 

routing’ 

for retailers, 

particularly SMEs. 

Gem & Jewellery India International Fair 

CHENNAI, INDIA 

China International Jewelry Fair 

BEIJING, CHINA 

CANCELLED Watches & Wonders Geneva 

GENEVA, SWITZERLAND 

CANCELLED Baselworld 

BASEL, SWITZERLAND 

NEW DATES Oroarezzo Jewelry Exhibition 

AREZZO, ITALY 

Digital Brainwave 

4The Reserve Bank of Australia (RBA) 

is investigating the merchant fees 

associated with ‘tap and go’ payments and 

smartphone-based services like ApplePay 

and Google Pay. Frequently, payments 

made through these mechanisms are 

routed through international card 

schemes run by Mastercard and Visa, 

rather than the cheaper EFTPOS. 

The Fairer Merchant Fees Alliance – 

which includes the Australian Retailers 

Association – estimates the extra fees 

cost retailers $350–550 million per year. 

Trendspotting 

4Linear earrings were all over the 

red carpet during awards season. 

Saoirse Ronan’s (above) standout pair, 

from Gucci High Jewellery’s Hortus 

Deliciarum collection, stole the show 

at the BAFTAs. 

Top Product 

4The Baume & Mercier Clifton 

Baumatic 10468 offers an urban design 

for the ambitious professional. This 

men’s chronometer watch features a 

striking gradient blue dial with a satinfinished 

stainless steel bracelet and 

matching steel case. 

Distributed by Duraflex Group Australia 

Getty Images 

Stranger Things 

Weird, wacky and wonderful 

jewellery news from around the world 

A pizza the action 

4A UK fast-food chain has 

given away a pair of pizzathemed 

cufflinks, crafted in 

18-carat gold and decorated 

with ruby and tsavorite garnet 

– and a tiny fragment of dough! 

Made by London’s DJ Jewellers, 

the ‘crust-links’ were offered as 

part of a Leap Day engagement 

promotion. Leap Day, February 

29, is traditionally the day when 

women can propose to men. 

Quality time 

4A former US Air Force 

veteran fainted on a 

recent episode of TV series 

Antiques Roadshow after 

being told his Rolex watch was 

worth $US400,000. The man 

had initially purchased the 

Oyster Cosmograph as a dive 

watch while stationed in 

Thailand in the 1970s, paying 

$US345.97. He had kept it 

in a safety deposit box for 

four decades before having it 

appraised on the show. 

Rock and relax 

4An exclusive spa in 

Singapore is now offering a 

gemstone massage treatment 

using oils ‘infused’ with stones 

like garnet, amethyst and rose 

quartz. The gems are believed 

to impart spiritual and physical 

benefits like lowering stress 

and improving circulation. Spa 

guests are also offered a glass 

of ‘gemstone-infused’ water 

when they arrive! 

VOICE OF THE AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY INDUSTRY 

Published by Befindan Media Pty Ltd 

Locked Bag 26, South Melbourne, VIC 3205 AUSTRALIA | ABN 66 638 077 648 | Phone: +61 3 9696 7200 | info@jewellermagazine.com 

Publisher & Managing Editor Angela Han angela.han@jewellermagazine.com • Assistant Editor Arabella Roden arabella.roden@jewellermagazine.com 

Advertising Toli Podolak toli.podolak@jewellermagazine.com • Accounts Paul Blewitt finance@befindanmedia.com • Subscriptions info@jewellermagazine.com 

Copyright All material appearing in Jeweller is subject to copyright. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly forbidden without prior written consent of the publisher. Befindan Media Pty Ltd 

strives to report accurately and fairly and it is our policy to correct significant errors of fact and misleading statements in the next available issue. All statements made, although based on information 

believed to be reliable and accurate at the time, cannot be guaranteed and no fault or liability can be accepted for error or omission. Any comment relating to subjective opinions should be addressed 

to the editor. Advertising The publisher reserves the right to omit or alter any advertisement to comply with Australian law and the advertiser agrees to indemnify the publisher for all damages or 

liabilities arising from the published material.

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News 

Prestigious diamond 

jewellery awards return 

for 2020 

Australian retailers brace for coronavirus impact 

Australia. For now, it seems people’s fears 

are premature, but are having a big impact. 

“I just implore people to keep a sense of 

perspective and to be realistic: right now, 

the risk from coronavirus in Australia is 

minimal, and I urge Australians not to turn 

their backs on businesses that have already 

faced significant headwinds this summer.” 

MORE INFORMATION ABOUTREGISTRATION 

JEWELLERMAGAZINE.COM 

Registrations are now open for the 2020 

Diamond Guild Australia Jewellery Awards. 

Registrations are now open for Diamond 

Guild Australia’s biennial Jewellery 

Awards, with winners to be announced 

at a gala event in Sydney in October. 

This year’s Awards – the eighth edition of 

the competition – will select a finalist and 

winning entry from across six categories, 

as well as an overall Supreme Winner. 

The categories are: Solitaire Diamond, 

Diamonds For Men, Diamonds For 

Everyday, Emerging Talent, Argyle 

Australian Fancy Coloured Diamond, 

and Red Carpet. 

Melissa James, executive officer 

Diamond Guild Australia, told Jeweller, 

“The Diamond Guild Australia Jewellery 

Awards provides an important platform 

for retail jewellers to showcase the 

individuality and artisanship of designer 

jewellery to the public. 

“In a marketplace crowded with mass 

produced designs, it is a great way to 

illustrate the possibility of jewellery 

design and to showcase the amazing 

local talent of the Australian jewellery 

industry,” she added. 

Winners in each category will receive 

a trophy and certificate. 

“In addition, the Guild will be showcasing 

the finalists and winners in our chosen 

media partner – to be announced 

in March – providing an unrivalled 

opportunity for the winners to leverage 

their success in the media and to the 

jewellery consumer,” James said. 

Finalists and winners will be chosen by 

a panel of judges from different fields of 

design, with a Diamond Guild member 

appointed to provide technical feedback. 

The 2020 judging panel will be 

announced next month, alongside 

major sponsors. 

2018 Solitaire 

Award 

‘Brilliant’ ring, 

Ben Preston-Black 

and Rowan Hurrell, 

Creations Jewellers 

2018 Fancy Colour 

Diamond Award 

‘Fanciful’ ring, 

Ben Preston-Black 

and Wisan Sarji, 

Creations Jewellers 

2018 Red Carpet 

Award and 

Supreme Winner 

‘Aella’ earrings, 

Olivar Musson, 

Musson Jewellers 

More than 85,000 people have tested positive for 

the coronavirus known as covid-19 

The impact of the novel coronavirus, 

known as COVID-19, is being felt across 

the Australian economy, with the retail 

industry expected to be hit particularly 

hard as consumers stay away from 

crowded shopping centres and precincts. 

At the time of publication, more than 

85,000 people had tested positive for the 

virus worldwide, with at least 2,500 deaths, 

including one Australian. 

The Australian Retailers Association (ARA) 

noted drastically decreased footfall as 

concerned shoppers avoid public areas. 

Russell Zimmerman, president ARA, said, 

“We’re as concerned as anybody about 

coronavirus becoming a real problem in 

Quarantine and containment efforts on 

the Chinese mainland have also led to 

manufacturing supply chain problems 

across many Australian industries. 

Chinese factory activity reportedly contracted 

at its fastest pace ever in February, and 

facilities are unlikely to return to normal 

operations until April. 

Adding to the challenges for the retail sector, 

travel restrictions from China have seen 

tourism numbers fall and left more than 

100,000 international students unable to 

return to Australian universities. 

However, there is a silver lining for Australian 

retailers. A recent poll by Utting Research, 

published in the Australian Financial Review, 

found that 35 per cent of Australians are 

changing their overseas travel plans, which 

will make local spending more likely. 

Michael Hill International records positive 

results in half-yearly financial report 

Michael Hill International’s revenue increased 

4.4 per cent in the six months to 26 December 

2019, to $329.5 million; profits increased 

19.6 per cent compared with the same 

period in FY19. 

Same-store sales rose 3.3 per cent in 

Australia, 5.1 per cent in Canada, and 6.6 

per cent in New Zealand. Australia remains 

Michael Hill’s largest market, accounting for 

approximately 55 per cent of total revenue. 

The retailer opened one new store in Canada 

and closed three under-performing locations 

in Australia, leaving it operating 304 stores 

in total. While e-commerce sales increased 

by 44.3 per cent, they represented just 3 per 

cent of total revenue. 

Daniel Bracken, CEO Michael Hill 

International, attributed the results to 

“disciplined cost management, nil net 

debt, lower inventory levels and improving 

stock turn”. 

The second half of 2019 saw the launch of 

several key initiatives for the retailer, including 

its e-commerce loyalty program Brilliance – 

which will be introduced in-store this year – a 

customer feedback program called Sparkle, 

and lab-created diamond engagement rings, 

previously reported by Jeweller. 

The company also conducted a promotional 

campaign for the 40th anniversary of the 

business, alongside Black Friday sales. 

Bracken noted that the impact of “local and 

global environmental factors” – such as the 

Australian bushfires – had been limited. 

In an interview with the Australian 

Financial Review, Bracken said Michael Hill 

International was less exposed to supply 

chain disruption due to the coronavirus 

epidemic, as only 5 per cent of its products 

are manufactured in China. 

He added, “[Jewellery retailing] is a category 

that has not evolved in four to five decades. 

Our opportunity is really there to reinvent 

the way we present our products and the 

way we communicate with our customers – 

with constant ‘newness’.” 

The company has placed an increased 

emphasis on new collections, as well as 

branded jewellery. 

12 | March 2020

Baselworld and Watches & Wonders 

Geneva cancelled amid virus fears 

Baselworld followed several other international events in cancelling its 2020 edition. 

Following the Swiss government’s 

decision to ban large-scale 

events due to the spread of 

coronavirus, Baselworld 2020 

has been cancelled. 

The next edition of the luxury 

trade fair will take place from 28 

January–2 February 2021, earlier 

than its traditional March dates 

and in line with the product launch 

schedules of major watch brands. 

As recently as late February, 

organisers were insisting the 

show would proceed as planned, 

from 30 April–5 May – even when 

coronavirus concerns forced the 

cancellation of the other ‘Swiss 

show’, Watches & Wonders Geneva. 

That event – formerly known as 

SIHH – had been scheduled to 

take place immediately before 

Baselworld. However, the Swiss 

Federal Council issued a total ban 

on gatherings of more than 1,000 

people on 28 February, effective 

until 15 March. 

As a result, Baselworld and its 

parent company, MCH Group, 

made the unprecedented decision 

to cancel the event – just days 

before construction was due to 

begin on exhibitor stands. 

Michel Loris-Melikoff, managing 

director Baselworld, said, “We 

deeply regret having had to 

postpone the event as planned 

due to the coronavirus, in full 

consideration of the needs of the 

watch and jewellery industry to be 

able to benefit from the platform 

to develop their business.” 

He said the decision to hold 

the next Baselworld in January 

2021 would enable “the industry 

and all our customers to... reset 

their calendars for the beginning 

of the year, a period that is 

conducive to the presentation of 

their new products, new trends 

and order taking”. 

Several watch manufacturers 

including Bulgari, Breitling, Girard- 

Perregaux and Ulysse Nardin have 

since announced a product launch 

event, called Geneva Watch Days, for 

‘primarily’ European retailers and 

media. At the time of publication, 

it was scheduled for 26–29 April. 

Coronavirus concerns have 

recently forced the cancellation 

or postponement of a number of 

other watch and jewellery industry 

events, including: 

4Hong Kong International 

Jewellery Show and Gem & Pearl 

Show: scheduled 2-8 March, 

postponed to 18-21 May 

4Swatch Group ‘Time To Move’ 

product launch event: scheduled 

28 February-6 March, cancelled 

4Seiko ‘Grand Seiko Summit’: 

scheduled 4-6 March, cancelled 

4Movado Group ‘Movado Group 

Summit’: scheduled late March, 

cancelled 

4Watches & Wonders Geneva: 

scheduled 25-29 April, cancelled 

4ICA Congress 2020: scheduled 

20-23 September, cancelled and 

rescheduled for March 2021. 

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News 

In Brief 

All-sapphire watch 

4Fashion house Chanel has unveiled 

the limited-edition X-Ray model of 

its J12 watch, which is celebrating 

its 20th anniversary this year. 

The X-Ray has a transparent sapphire 

case, movement, and link bracelet 

with a pave-set diamond bezel. 

Only a dozen J12 X-Rays will be 

made, retailing at $US626,000 

($AU958,765) each. 

Inhorgenta well attended 

4Messe München, the organiser 

of the Inhorgenta Münich 

trade show, reported increased 

visitor attendance for the 2020 

edition, which took place 14-17 

February. The event recorded 

26,000 visitors from more than 80 

countries, surpassing expectations. 

It hosts watch, jewellery and 

gemstone exhibitors with a 

European focus. 

Swatch Group bonds 

with 007 

4Swatch Group will provide two 

watches for characters in the 

latest James Bond film No Time 

To Die. Bond will wear an Omega 

Seamaster, while gadget officer 

Q will wear a Swatch. Consumers 

can also purchase seven special 

edition Swatch watches inspired 

by classic Bond film posters in the 

lead up to the new film’s release. 

Perth Mint trials 

gold blockchain 

4The Perth Mint is undertaking 

a blockchain project called 

TrueGold with Australian technology 

company Security Matters to create 

‘mine-to-marketplace ethical gold 

supply chain assurance’. Perth 

Mint CEO Richard Hayes said, “This 

complete transparency will instil 

even greater trust in a commodity 

which already provides the ultimate 

refuge during times of economic 

and geopolitical turmoil.” 

We are 

pleased 

with the 

momentum 

of the store 

rollout during 

the period 

Shane Fallscheer 

Wallace 

Bishop 

CEO Stuart 

Bishop was 

confident 

the business 

could 

overcome the 

challenges 

Lovisa defies retail downturn, plans new stores 

as Colette By Colette Hayman collapses 

Lovisa is pursuing further international expansion. 

Australian fashion jewellery retailer Lovisa 

has recorded strong results in its latest 

financial report, with revenue increasing 22.2 

per cent, to $162.8 million, in the six months 

to 31 December 2019. 

The results were attributed to an aggressive 

international expansion strategy, with 42 new 

stores opened overseas including four in the 

UK, 10 in France and 21 in the US. 

Lovisa’s largest market remains Australia 

and New Zealand, which accounts for more 

than 50 per cent of revenue. According to its 

FY19 annual report, it operates 154 stores in 

Australia and 22 in New Zealand. 

Shane Fallscheer, managing director Lovisa, 

said, “We are pleased with the momentum 

of the store rollout during the period which 

has again delivered us strong top line sales 

growth, and despite the investment required 

to deliver this growth we have also managed 

to deliver solid growth in profit.” 

Fallscheer added that the business would 

continue to focus on bricks-and-mortar 

trading – particularly in the US and France 

– alongside online shopping. 

Lovisa has continued to defy what some 

industry commentators have termed 

Australia’s ‘retail apocalypse’, which saw 

jewellery and accessories retailer Colette By 

Colette Hayman (CBCH) placed into voluntary 

administration at the end of January. 

Administrators Deloitte Restructuring 

Services recently confirmed 33 CBCH stores 

will close, leaving 105 locations remaining 

across Australia and New Zealand. It is 

currently seeking a buyer for the business. 

Colette Hayman founded CBCH in 2010, 

three years after selling fashion jewellery 

chain Diva to BB Retail Capital, owned by 

entrepreneur Brett Blundy. That same year, 

Blundy and Fallscheer founded Lovisa. 

Within five years, Diva had reportedly been 

placed into liquidation, with stores either 

closed or converted to Lovisa locations. 

Iconic Australian jewellery chain plans 

turnaround following audit woes 

Wallace Bishop has recorded $15 million losses. 

Wallace Bishop Jewellers is facing ‘material 

uncertainty’ over its future after recording 

losses of more than $15 million over the past 

two years. 

An audit report by Brisbane-based accounting 

firm Merrotts recommended that the 

103-year-old business increase sales, reduce 

overheads and receive financial support from 

its parent company, Athena Pty Ltd, in order 

to continue as a going concern. 

However, Wallace Bishop CEO Stuart Bishop 

– the great-grandson of founder Wallace 

Bishop – was confident the business could 

overcome the challenges and had met its 

sales targets for the critical Christmas period. 

He told The Courier-Mail, “Wallace Bishop 

continually reviews its store footprint as 

demographics and retail trends change”. 

Bishop stated that new store designs 

and a greater investment in e-commerce 

were key priorities for the business, and a 

“considerable increase” in online sales had 

already occurred. 

Wallace Bishop operates 50 stores throughout 

NSW and Queensland. It was recently forced 

to close its Toombul location – which had 

operated for more than 50 years – following 

a devastating ram-raid. 

More than 500 jobs could be at risk if the 

chain were to collapse. 


Baume & Mercier pursues expansion 

in Australian market 

SAMS GROUP 

AUSTRALIA 

Access one of the largest ranges of 

Argyle pink diamond in Australia 

All of our pink Diamonds are cut 

& polished by Argyle With Argyle 

 

Daniel Braillard, chief operating officer Baume & Mercier, recently visited Australia. 

Swiss watch brand Baume & 

Mercier is expanding its presence in 

Australia, nine months after signing 

a distribution deal with Duraflex 

Group Australia (DGA). 

The company – which is part of 

luxury conglomerate Richemont – 

has manufactured timepieces in 

the Swiss Jura region for 190 years. 

Daniel Braillard, chief operating 

officer Baume & Mercier, recently 

flew to Australia to introduce its 

latest model, the Clifton Baumatic 

10468, to the market. 

“We have just started a new 

partnership with Duraflex to 

really reinforce our distribution in 

Australia. They certainly know the 

market better, and the culture of 

the country, and for us it’s a great 

opportunity to develop thanks to 

this new collaboration,” Braillard 

told Jeweller. 

Phil Edwards, managing director 

DGA, said, “The addition of Baume 

& Mercier to our stable of brands 

has proved an exciting development, 

and also a learning curve in a 

positive respect. 

“It has been an opportunity to 

build relationships with new retail 

partners in the luxury market, 

expanding our customer base.” 

watches of the highest quality’, but 

it is more than a motto – I would 

call it a philosophy. Everything we 

do within the brand is linked with 

quality and durability,” he explained. 

The Clifton Baumatic 10468 is 

inspired by vintage Baume 

& Mercier dress watches from 

the 1950s, though it contains an 

innovative new movement that was 

developed in-house at Baume 

& Mercier over a five-year period. 

According to Braillard, it has four 

primary benefits which retailers 

can use as selling points. 

These include: a five-day power 

reserve, high-precision movement 

certified by the prestigious Contrôle 

Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres 

(COSC), resistance to magnetic 

fields, and advanced lubrication 

for improved durability – nearly 

doubling the time between services. 

Meanwhile, Edwards told Jeweller 

that DGA would be supporting 

Baume & Mercier retailers with a 

comprehensive marketing strategy, 

including “targeted social media 

campaigns”, and “influential 

editorials and watch reviews to 

drive brand awareness”. 

TENDER STONES 

SINGLE STONES 

MATCHED PAIRS 

CALIBRATED MELEE LINES 

Braillard emphasised Baume 

& Mercier’s long history and 

commitment to Swiss-made 

quality and precision. 

“Our motto is, ‘Accept only 

perfection, only manufacture 

Edwards added, “To further build 

on this, we are also aligning with 

selected celebrities such as [TV 

presenter] Neale Whitaker and 

[actor] Daniel MacPherson who 

have a passion for the brand.” 

E pink@samsgroup.com.au W samsgroup.com.au P 02 9290 2199

New Products 

1 2 3 

4 

MARCH 

Monthly 

Showcase 

Jeweller’s compiled snapshot 

of the latest products to hit 

the market. 

5 

6 7 

8 

1 Stuller This accented cabochon split-shank ring features an 8x6mm pink coral gem, surrounded by white diamonds and set in 14-carat yellow gold. 2 Pink Kimberley | SAMS Group Australia 

The Rose de Sucre chain pendant features fancy pink diamonds from Argyle, adorned with brilliant white diamonds set in 18-carat rose and white gold. 3 Coeur de Lion | Timesupply A new 

take on Coeur de Lion’s colourful collection for autumn/winter 2020, this set features vibrant multi-colour crystals sparkling in a rose-gold plated drop circle. 4 Hot Diamonds | Hot Diamonds 

Australia Introducing Forget Me Not by Hot Diamonds. These floral earrings measure 12mm and are delicately crafted in sterling silver and rose gold, adorned with two diamonds. 

5 Pierre Lannier | Heart & Grace The Capital Chronograph watch features a black stainless steel case and silver link strap. Designed and made in France. 6 Cudworth | Cudworth Enterprises 

Gold-plated stainless steel meets carbon fibre and woven black leather in this stylish men’s cuff bracelet. 7 Maserati | West End Collection The Maserati Potenza Auto watch series is inspired 

by the exquisite engineering, bold attitude and peerless design of Maserati sports cars. Featuring a 42mm jet-black case, yellow gold dial and black leather strap. 8 Amber Sceats Exude 

elegance in the Kora earrings. Crafted with 24-carat gold-plated coins and irregular freshwater pearls for a unique look.

10 Years Ago 

Time Machine: March 2010 

A snapshot of the industry events making headlines this time 10 years ago in Jeweller. 

Historic Headlines 

4 Submissions open for 2010 JAA Awards 

4 Nationwide members visit Pandora factory 

4 Bauer gem lab in laser first 

4 De Beers discusses “new normal” 

4 Watson v Swatch case adjourned 

Industry emerges from GFC 

relatively unscathed 

With the worst of the global financial crisis 

seemingly over, many Australian retailers and 

suppliers have breathed a sigh of relief upon 

realising the impact was not as bad as they had 

first anticipated at the beginning of 2009. 

Leading Australian jewellery chain Michael Hill 

International was one of them. According to CEO 

Mike Parsell, Michael Hill International ended the 

year with strong same store sales in all countries, 

exceeding his expectations. 

Meanwhile, to continue its industry reign in 2009, 

supplier Pandora finished the year with a 76 per 

cent sales increase on 2008. 

Economists predict a return to Australia’s longterm 

growth rate of 3–4 per cent in 2010. 

New retail show for NZ 

Expertise Events, organiser of the International 

Jewellery Fair Sydney, is launching a new 

industry event, The NZ Retail Show. 

It will offer products and services designed to 

increase efficiencies, while providing advice on 

retailing, according to Expertise Events managing 

director Gary Fitz-Roy. 

“The NZ Retail Show allows retailers to see and 

hear about everything they need in one place,” 

Fitz-Roy added. 

The event will be held at the ASB Showgrounds, 

Auckland, and is supported by peak body the 

New Zealand Retailers Association (NZRA). 

March 2010 

ON THE COVER Pandora 

Editors’ Desk 

4Two Types, or Three?: “It’s a “cute” 

line, I know, but I really do think that 

people are divided into those who 

always see the positive, and those 

who don’t. 

For the record, and because it’s more 

fun to name things, I have called my 

two types of people ‘Type One’ and 

‘Type Too’. Unfortunately, everything 

is ‘too hard’ for Type Too.” 

Soapbox 

4Get Your Marketing Right: 

“Jewellery’s core elements are 

design and beauty... 

As a wholesaler of contemporary 

silver jewellery, my company has 

created a niche in its market by 

continually focusing on the design 

of the jewellery it offers. 

Yes, jewellery is a commodity, but it 

should be treated as a commodity 

into which much passion and 

creativity is imparted.” 

– Jo Tory, director Najo 

STILL RELEVANT 10 YEARS ON 

Mum’s the Word: “You really want 

to give customers the maximum 

time to afford a more expensive 

[Mother’s Day] gift, whether it be 

to finance it or build-up payment 

through lay-by... Remind people of 

the occasion early on 

Leading Edge assumes JAA 

membership offer 

An influx of Leading Edge buying group 

members has recently joined the JAA. Utilising 

the association’s special offer to attract bulk 

buying group membership, 83 Leading Edge 

jewellers became JAA members in January. 

According to Leading Edge managing director 

Josh Zarb, JAA’s special rate for buying 

group members acted as a catalyst for the 

large take-up. 

“Our buying group is rapidly gaining 

momentum. This only strengthens our offer by 

giving us a voice in the industry,” Zarb said. 

K-Swiss watches trademark 

banned in Australia 

US company K-Swiss has been legally 

prevented from registering its business name 

to sell its timepieces in Australia following 

action from the FH (Federation of the Swiss 

Watch Industry). 

Amid concerns that the name ‘K-Swiss’ 

would lead consumers to believe the watches 

originated in Switzerland, the Australian 

Trademarks Office ruled that K-Swiss could 

not sell watches in Australia under this name. 

According to the K-Swiss website, the brand 

derives its name from its founders, brothers 

Art and Ernie Brunner, who were born in 

Switzerland and moved to California. 

READ ALL HEADLINES IN FULL ON 

JEWELLERMAGAZINE.COM 


INSIDE 

My Store 

Sarah & Sebastian 

SYDNEY, NSW with Robert Sebastian Grynkofki, managing director • SPACE COMPLETED Early September 2019 

4Who is the target market? 

We knew the client base of our Mosman store would 

be diverse, so we wanted to create a space that 

was intriguing, without being intimidating. Whilst 

our target demographic can vary significantly, the 

appreciation for innovative design and clever details 

remains consistent, so it was important for the 

store design to speak to that. 

To form a harmonious balance, we explored light 

and dark, floating and solid, and lightweight and 

heavy elements within the design, which was 

realised by architects Landini Associates. 

This involved using materials such as concrete, 

walnut, blackened steel, mirrors and frosted glass. 

4Which features encourage sales? 

Our intention with the design was to establish the 

feeling of being in a gallery, so much emphasis was 

placed on atmospheric, shadowy lighting. 

The interior utilises refined, lightweight fixtures 

aimed at exhibiting the intricacies of each jewellery 

piece on display. 

Then we created a strategic lighting design to bring 

the precious metals and stones to life. 

4What is the store design’s ‘wow factor’? 

The challenge of traditional retail is what 

galvanised our approach to our second store: 

engaging our customers through immersive 

experiences, tactile installations and intimate 

communication with our staff. 

The ‘wow’ factor of our Mosman store is the 

overall museum atmosphere of the expansive 

space, and the industrial finish. 

These elements represent the juxtaposition of 

the Sarah & Sebastian brand: refined, yet raw 

and handcrafted. 

Photography: Ross Honeysett 


Behind every gemstone, 

there is a fascinating story 

waiting to delight clients 

around the world. Studying 

with GAA brings the 

expertise, networking and 

confidence to build a solid 

career in a multimilliondollar 

industry. Joining 

one of the most supportive 

and passionate professional 

communities of gemmologists 

in Australia was one of the 

best decision I ever made. 

Gina Barreto FGAA DipDT 

Gemmologist and Diamond Technologist 

Diamond 

Courses 

Practical Diamond Grading 

Advanced Practical Diamond Grading 

Diploma in Diamond Technology 

Enrolments now open 

For more information 

1300 436 338 

learn@gem.org.au 

www.gem.org.au 

Be 

Confident 

Gem-Ed Australia 

ADELAIDE BRISBANE HOBART MELBOURNE PERTH SYDNEY 

Passionately educating the industry, gem enthusiasts 

and consumers about gemstones

LEARN ABOUT 

Gems 

Chrysoprase 

Chrysoprase is the green variant, and 

most valuable form, of chalcedony. 

Its name comes to us from the Greek 

language, with chrysos being the word 

for gold and prasinon for green. 

In the world of gemmology, gems are often 

described as belonging to a ‘family’. 

One of the largest and most diverse 

gem families is that of the quartz group; 

amethyst, citrine, smoky quartz and rose 

quartz all belong to it. 

Gemmologists describe these gems as 

being crystalline, in that they have large 

crystals usually visible to the eye. 

But there is another branch in the 

quartz family, the cryptocrystalline 

gems. Jasper, agate and chalcedony are 

all cryptocrystalline. These gems are 

comprised of bundles of minute quartz 

fibres that require magnification to be seen. 

A dense sub-microscopic structure gives 

cryptocrystalline gems their distinctive 

‘waxy’ or ‘silky’ appearance when fashioned 

and polished. 

Coloured by nickel, chrysoprase has a range 

of shades of green – from pale, soft green to 

darker, less bright shades. Vivid apple green 

is the most highly prized. 

The gem’s transparency can range from 

semi translucent to opaque. The more 

translucent and bright in colour, the more 

appealing and valuable it is. High quality 

chrysoprase is described as casting a 

soft green ‘glow’. 

It was this optical quality, along with 

many metaphysical properties, that made 

chrysoprase valued by the ancient Greeks, 

Romans and Egyptians. The gem was 

believed to ensure the wearer had good 

health and happiness in relationships, and 

prosperity in life. 

For centuries and across many cultures, 

chrysoprase has been valued for 

adornment. Polished and fashioned into 

cabochons, beads and other shapes, it 

has been worn in all manner of jewellery 

including cameos and intaglios. 

Until the late 19th Century, the gem was 

popularly used for decorative items such as 

statues and urns, and as a luxurious feature 

on walls and columns in grand buildings, 

such as churches and palaces. 

Chrysoprase is found in many countries. 

Significant sources are Australia 

(Marlborough, Queensland), Brazil, 

Tanzania, the US, Germany, Madagascar, 

Zimbabwe and India. 

Sometimes called ‘Australian jade’, 

chrysoprase from Marlborough is highly 

valued in Asian markets. The gem’s 

similarity to quality jade with its vitreous 

lustre, translucency and rich, consistent 

colour makes it appealing. 

Chrysoprase 

From Greek chrysos, 

meaning ‘gold’ and 

prasinon meaning 

‘green’ 

Colour: Green 

Found in: Australia, 

Europe, North 

America, South 

America, Asia 

Mohs Hardness: 7 

Class: Chalcedony 

Lustre: Vitreous, Waxy 

Formula: SiO 2 

Quality chrysoprase is increasing in value, 

with mines in many parts of the world being 

exhausted. Australia is one of the leading 

producers of high-quality chrysoprase. 

Chrysoprase can be confused with jadeite, 

nephrite and prehnite – gems that have a 

similar translucency and colour. 

There are imitants on the market, namely 

green glass and dyed green agate. Bubbles 

in the glass and irregular absorption of the 

dye are two indicators of imitant material. 

Chrysoprase should be stored with care as 

its colour may fade with direct, prolonged 

exposure to sunlight and heat. 

Although quite a durable gem – its hardness 

of 6.5–7 on Mohs’ scale makes it suitable 

for use in a wide range of jewellery – 

chrysoprase can be scratched by harder 

gems and damaged through regular wear. 

To retain the gem’s beauty against the 

rigours of daily life, wipe gently with a 

clean cloth, rinse in warm water and 

leave to dry. 

Susan Hartwig FGAA combines her love 

for writing with a passion for gems and 

jewellery through her gemmology blog, 

ellysiagems.com. For more information 

on gemmology courses and gemstones, 

visit gem.org.au 


FEATURE 

Colour Diamonds 

THE FAIREST OF THEM ALL 

FLIGHT of FANCY 

The fancy colour diamond category is as dynamic and varied as the stones themselves. 

ARABELLA RODEN explores new trends and opportunities for retail jewellers. 

GRAFF DIAMONDS RECREATES ITS ICONIC 1970S CAMPAIGN FOR ITS 60TH ANNIVERSARY IN 2013

NATURAL 

FANCY DIAMONDS 

Price per carat 

2009 - 2019 

Pink Diamond 

increased 

116 per cent 

Graff 

There is little argument when it comes to 

the demand for fancy colour diamonds. 

A recent analysis, undertaken by the 

Fancy Color Research Foundation (FCRF) found 

prices for pink diamonds had more than doubled 

over the past 10 years; the figure was 81 per cent 

for blue diamonds, and 21 per cent for yellows. 

As economic principles tell us, this phenomenon is driven 

by the law of supply and demand; when demand outstrips 

supply, prices rise. 

In the case of natural fancy colour diamonds, demand has 

risen precipitously over the past 15 years – illustrated by 

record-breaking auction prices, such as the $US50 million 

($AU75.5 million) paid for the Pink Legacy diamond in 2018 

or feverish bidding at the annual Argyle Tender. 

Natella Aminov, director Vital Diamonds, tells Jeweller that 

colour diamonds have become one of the strongest categories 

for the business alongside colourless (white) diamonds. Vital 

Diamonds is now one of the largest suppliers of yellow and 

brown diamonds in Australia. 

Demand has also come in the form of ‘diamond investors’ – 

those who purchase fancy colour diamonds as an asset class. 

“Usually, people would like to buy a pink diamond for 

investment,” says Maulin Shah, director, World Shiner. 

“We get inquiries for pink diamonds according to the 

different customers’ budget – what they want to ‘invest’ – 

rather than a particular size.” 

International diamond supplier Kunming Diamonds began 

specialising in fancy colours of all sizes, shapes, and hues 

in 2002 and began stocking Argyle stones in 2011. 

After recently touring Australian cities with Kunming’s 

extensive selection of stones, director Harsh Maheshwari 

says local jewellers are embracing the category, often 

choosing yellow and brown diamonds as an affordable 

“entry point”. 

“It’s a big misconception, when it comes to colour diamonds, 

that they are all extremely expensive,” he explains. “Of course, 

the main component is colour, so if jewellers focus on that 

more than size and clarity, they will be able to find something 

within their range. It may be smaller, but it will be beautiful.” 

He advises jewellers to be open to a range of different 

diamonds, as very specific requests can be difficult – 

and expensive – to fulfil. 

Steve Der Bedrossian, CEO SAMS Group Australia, says 

jewellers should choose a supplier who can offer a range 

of options to suit their budget. 

“SAMS Group can design plans and packages to suit our 

clients’ requirements, both in terms of budget and window 

Data: The Fancy Color 

Research Foundation (FCRF) 

Images: Leibish & Co | Graff 

Calleija 

Blue Diamond 

increased 

81 per cent 

Yellow Diamond 

increased 

21 per cent 

Pink Kimberley, 

SAMS Group Australia 

DeBeers Couture 

display. We also offer branded pink diamonds – Pink 

Kimberley and Blush Pink,” he explains. 

Consumer appeal 

Different demographics of consumers are captivated by fancy 

colour diamonds, but the stones are particularly appealing to 

educated and passionate jewellery lovers, says Maheshwari. 

“A mature consumer – someone who already owns a 

colourless diamond or gemstone – may be looking to buy 

something different, with more intrinsic value. Colour 

diamonds have a story that differs to a colourless diamond. 

“For someone who’s ready to spend money, when you give 

them the story behind the coloured diamonds – why they 

are different, why they are so rare – it really attracts them.” 

Meanwhile, Katherine Kovacs, director K&K Export 

Import, argues that fancy colour diamonds also appeal 

to younger consumers. 

“Millennials are more likely than previous generations 

to seek out gemstones with a point of difference, that 

are unique and non-traditional. 

“Colour diamonds are a way of providing a non-traditional 

option with fantastic durability and brilliance,” she explains. 

The desire for a ‘point of difference’ has translated into the 

trend for salt-and-pepper diamonds among Millennials. 

The stones get their distinctive celestial appearance from 

a variety of inclusions, and have developed a niche as 

statement jewellery and alternative engagement rings. 

“Salt-and-pepper diamonds provide the perfect solution 

for jewellers wanting to create high-end jewellery with a 

hint of that ‘natural’ aesthetic,” explains Brendan McCreesh, 

managing director O’Neils Affiliated, which stocks saltand-peppers 

alongside colour gemstones. 

“They break away from the tradition of ‘clean and flawless’ 

gems yet maintain a highly fashionable style which can be 

applied to many different manufacturing techniques. The 

material we source is perfect for Australian designers who 

work to a price point or a particular look,” he adds. 

Indeed, it is that one-of-a-kind quality that makes fancy 

colour diamonds of all kinds so compelling to consumers 

– and advantageous for retail jewellers. The unique hues 

allow for creative pieces that are both eye-catching in the 

window and impossible to buy from competitors. 

“Fancy colour diamonds – like colour gems – tell a story,” 

says Brett Bolton, director Bolton Gems. “The stone is not 

just a ‘G Si1 Ex Ex Ex, no BGM [brown, green, milky], no 

fluorescence,’ where the only difference between one and 

the next 50 is the position of the inclusion. Each stone is 

unique in colour, secondary colour, cutting, fire.” 

Shah adds, “Each and every fancy colour diamond is unique, 


Colour Diamonds Feature | FLIGHT OF FANCY 

L to R: Graff | Calleija | Calleija | Leibish & Co. 

so it’s a great opportunity for jewellers to make some extra 

margin on their product.” 

Yet while demand is evidently growing, supplies have become 

more limited. 

The end of an era 

The supply-demand dynamic will become more extreme in 

the future, as the world’s premier source of pink diamonds, 

Rio Tinto’s Argyle Mine in Western Australia, is scheduled to 

close at the end of 2020. 

Argyle opened in the mid-1980s and currently accounts for 

90–95 per cent of the global pink diamond supply. It also 

produces blues, yellows and browns, often sold as ‘cognac’, 

‘champagne’, and ‘chocolate’ diamonds. 

“Since summer last year, more and more jewellers are 

reaching out requesting Argyle pinks, trying to get the last 

piece of the pie,” says Maheshwari. 

Leibish Polnauer, director of international fancy colour 

diamond supplier Leibish & Co., notes: “Rio Tinto closing 

the Argyle mine will lead to a massive decrease in pink 

diamonds, meaning that prices will continue to inflate. I 

don’t advise jewellers to stock up on all colour diamonds, 

however if they are looking to invest in one, I would 

recommend stocking up on Argyle [pink] diamonds as 

these are the most sought after [by consumers].” 

Bolton agrees. “As we approach the conclusion of the 

Argyle Mine – and the reality of this sinks in for consumers 

– Argyle pinks and Argyle products in general become 

increasingly rare, valuable, and desirable,” he says. 

Der Bedrossian – whose brands exclusively feature Argyle 

diamonds – says origin is now “as important as the other 

4 Cs” for the local market. 

“The certificate of Argyle origin is essential – especially 

for Australian consumers. Many feel patriotic buying an 

Australian product,” he explains. 

Indeed, Argyle has been the lynch pin of the Australian 

diamond industry for decades and is currently the country’s 

only active diamond mine. 

Camilah 

Graff 

Calleija 

The Merlin Diamond Mine in the Northern Territory, which 

had previously produced brown and blue stones, is currently 

dormant after the Federal Court appointed liquidators to its 

parent company, Merlin Diamonds Ltd, in 2019. 

Meanwhile, the Ellendale Mine in Western Australia, which 

once produced half the world’s yellow diamonds, was closed 

in 2015 when its previous operator, Kimberley Diamond 

Company, went into liquidation. 

It may return to productivity in the coming years; 

Australian mining company Gibb River Diamonds recently 

took over the lease after a rejuvenation project by the West 

Australian government. 

However, it is not known when the site will become fully 

operational. In order to satisfy consumer demand for fancy 

colour diamonds, jewellers will need to look further afield. 

New diamond sources 

Russian mining conglomerate Alrosa – the world’s largest 

diamond producer by volume – has indicated it intends to 

become the world’s premier source of fancy colour stones. 

Pavel Vinikhin, director cutting and polishing division, 

Alrosa, recently told the Russian news service TASS: 

“[Following] the closure of the Argyle Mine in Australia, 

we will become the world’s largest producer of coloured 

diamonds and can therefore go after leadership in the 

coloured diamond market.” 

Indeed, Alrosa has unearthed several notable colour stones 

in recent years, including the 14.83-carat fancy vivid purple 

pink it named ‘Spirit Of The Rose’. It holds the high-profile 

True Colors Auction each September, with the diamonds 

available to view at the Hong Kong Jewellery Fair. 

Colour diamonds currently account for less than 0.1 per cent 

of Alrosa’s total output and most originate from the remote 

Yakutia region in Siberia. 

In February, New York-based fancy colour diamond supplier 

LJ West Diamonds purchased a 6.21-carat intense purplepink 

Yakutia stone. 

In what could be interpreted as a ‘sign of the times’, it was 

INDUSTRY VOICES 

WHAT 

ABOUT 

LAB-GROWN 

COLOUR 

DIAMONDS? 

Leibish Polnauer 

Leibish & Co. 

Founder 

“I don’t believe that lab-grown 

diamonds have any impact on 

real colour diamond sales, as 

synthetic will never replace one’s 

desire to own something unique, 

natural and one-of-a-kind, like a 

fancy colour diamond.” 

Martin Schiechtl 

Swarovski Created Diamonds 

Senior Vice-President Global Marketing 

“We believe that natural and manmade 

diamonds can co-exist and 

thrive. In nature, fancy colours are 

extremely rare as the conditions for 

the formation are very seldom met. 

This rarity of course reflects in the 

price. Our aim is to make colour 

lab-created diamonds accessible 

to a broader group of customers.” 

Brett Bolton 

Bolton Gems 

Director 

“Retail stores who choose 

to stock both natural and 

lab-created diamonds are 

appealing to a broader range 

of consumers, which inevitably 

leads to increased sales and 

consistent customers.” 


PinkKimberley.com.au 

E pink@samsgroup.com.au W samsgroup.com.au P 02 9290 2199 

SAMS GROUP 

AUSTRALIA

Colour Diamonds Feature | FLIGHT OF FANCY 

Steve Der Bedrossian 


CEO 

Scarselli Diamonds ‘Aurora Green’ ring | Natural rough: Pink (Graff) | Blue and yellow (Langerman) 

“The certificate of 

Argyle Mine origin is 

essential – especially 

for Australian 

consumers. Many feel 

patriotic, buying an 

Australian product. I 

would say that origin 

is now as important 

as the ‘4 Cs’ when 

buying a diamond.” 

the first time the business had sourced a 

diamond from Alrosa in its 40-year history. 

Scott West, executive vice-president LJ 

West Diamonds, told JCK Online, “Siberia 

has a lower quantity [than Argyle] but is still 

a somewhat consistent production… [And] 

because Siberia is so big, there is 

the potential to find new mines.” 

Following the LJ West sale, Alrosa 

announced a 17.44-carat yellow diamond 

had been found in Yakutia. 

Botswana may also prove to be 

a source of colour diamonds 

in the future; mining company 

Lucara unearthed a 9.74-carat 

blue and a 4.13-carat pink at its 

Karowe Mine last year. Karowe 

previously yielded two other 

notable blue stones. 

Eira Thomas, CEO Lucara, said 

at the time, “Lucara is extremely pleased 

with the recovery of these rare, sizeable, 

fancy coloured diamonds, which have the 

potential to contribute meaningful value to 

our regular production of large, high-value 

type IIa diamonds.” 

However, no mine has produced colour 

diamonds as consistently as Argyle. 

With pink diamonds alone priced at 

between $30,000 to more than $1 million 

per carat, jewellers and consumers have 

searched for an alternative. 

Enter lab-created colour diamonds. 

Swarovski – best known for its cut 

LJ West 6.2-carat 

intense purple pink 

diamond from Alrosa 

crystal and gemstone jewellery – recently 

entered the category in the US and Europe 

with the Swarovski Created Diamonds 

Color Collection. 

The Color Collection – which includes 

16 hues – is available as loose stones 

for Swarovski B2B customers, and to 

consumers as Atelier Swarovski jewellery. 

Martin Schiechtl, senior vice-president 

global marketing, Swarovski Created 

Diamonds, says, “When Daniel Swarovski 

founded this company in 1895, 

his vision was to make luxury 

accessible. 

“Our aim is to make colour labcreated 

diamonds accessible to a 

broader group of customers, and 

our coloured lab-created diamonds 

open up new creative possibilities 

for our customers.” 

The diamonds are manufactured and cut 

by Swarovski and its supplier factories. 

“Every supplier is audited and has to 

fulfill our strict quality criteria as well 

as environmental, safety and labour 

standards. 

“It provides assurance to our stakeholders 

that responsible business practices 

are being followed in all sections of our 

operations,” Schiechtl says. 

In Australia, Bolton Gems stocks labcreated 

colour diamonds under its Biron 

Lab Grown brand. Director Brett Bolton 

says the affordability of lab-grown colour 

diamonds is a win for retailers. 

Maulin Shah 

World Shiner 

Director 

“We don’t have 

difficulty providing 

champagne and 

cognac diamonds to 

jewellers – they are 

still easily available 

compared with pink, 

blue and green 

diamonds, which are 

extremely difficult to 

source.” 

Brendan McCreesh 

O’Neils Affiliated 

Managing Director 

“[Salt-and-pepper 

diamonds] break away 

from the tradition of 

‘clean and flawless’ 

gems yet maintain 

a highly fashionable 

style... The material 

we source is perfect 

for designers who 

work to a price point 

or a particular look.” 

“Retail stores who chose to stock both natural 

and lab-created diamonds are appealing 

to a broader range of consumers, which 

inevitably leads to increased sales and 

consistent customers,” he explains, predicting 

a “very large shift towards lab-grown [colour] 

diamonds” in the next 12 months. 

Trends in colour 

While much has been made of the demand for 

pink diamonds, other colours are also finding 

enthusiastic support from consumers. 

“Colour diamonds across the board are 

performing well,” confirms Kovacs. “We’re 

selling a lot of bright, intense colour diamonds 

– yellows, oranges, and greenish-yellow – 

in sizes under half a carat. 

“Champagne continues to be slightly more 

popular than darker shades, while demand 

for salt-and-pepper continues to be strong.” 

McCreesh says O’Neils began stocking a small 

range of salt-and-pepper diamonds and the 

category has grown “significantly” over the 

years due to customer demand. 

“As coloured gemstone merchants, we would 

not ordinarily stock diamonds. However, 

salt-and-pepper diamonds complement our 

gemstone range beautifully,” he explains. 

McCreesh says local jewellers prefer “good, 

bright crystal with an aesthetically pleasing 

scattering of carbon inclusions” and a “wellbalanced” 

look. 

“Heavily included material is inherently dark 

and far less desirable, resulting in material... 

not suitable for the local market,” he says. 

FANCY COLOURS 

LAB GROWN + 

NATURAL 

WHAT 

GIVES 

YOU 

THAT 

HUE? 

Images: Leibish & Co. 

Pink & Red 

The rarest of all natural 

diamonds are reds and pinks. The 

colour comes from structural 

irregularities in the crystal lattice. 

Man-made pink and red diamonds 

get their colour from irradiation 

and annealing 

Orange 

Crystal lattice irregularities, 

combined with other chemical 

factors, make a stone appear either 

reddish-, yellowish-, or brownishorange. 

Lab-created orange 

diamonds are exposed to nitrogen, 

irradiation, annealing, and solvents 

Brown 

Natural yellow diamonds appear 

brown when more nitrogen is 

present in the crystal lattice. 

Lab-grown diamond manufacturers 

can control the nitrogen content to 

ensure the finished stone appears 

either yellow or brown 

Yellow 

A yellow tint is produced when 

nitrogen atoms disperse 

throughout the crystal lattice 

of a diamond. This process is 

the same in both natural and 

lab-grown diamonds 


FLIGHT OF FANCY | Colour Diamonds Feature 

Natella Aminov 

Vital Diamonds 

Director 

Graff 

“Browns – 

champagne 

and cognac diamonds 

– they are the 

strongest [category]. 

We have a really 

exceptional collection 

of these goods in 

traditional round 

cut and rare fancy 

shapes.” 

Pink Kimberley, SAMS Group Australia 

Aminov says brown diamonds, across the 

spectrum of hues from light to saturated, 

are the leading fancy colour category at Vital 

Diamonds. “Browns – champagne and cognac 

diamonds – they are the strongest [category]. 

We have a really exceptional collection of these 

goods in traditional round cut and rare fancy 

shapes,” she says. 

Yellow diamonds have 

also been in demand 

at Vital, although 

Aminov notes it is not 

as consistent as the 

demand for cognacs 

and champagnes. 

Salt-and-pepper diamond, 

O’Neils Affiliated 

At World Shiner, Shah 

notes pink diamonds in all sizes are still 

the most popular fancy stones due to their 

‘investment’ appeal. 

However, he has observed different colour 

trends too. 

“Other colours are getting more popular, like 

yellow, champagne, and cognac. We don’t 

have difficulty providing champagne and 

cognac diamonds to jewellers – they are still 

easily available compared with pink, blue and 

green diamonds, which are extremely difficult 

to source,” Shah explains. 

Meanwhile, Bolton has noticed the expense of 

pink diamonds encourages consumers to seek 

alternative hues, explaining,“Most consumers 

are infatuated with the concept of an Argyle pink 

diamond. However, when they see the current 

prices and realise what they can afford, we find 

a lot of people then also look at other colours.” 

Harsh Maheshwari 

Kunming Diamonds 

Director 

“It’s a big 

misconception 

that [fancy colour 

diamonds] are all 

extremely expensive. 

Of course, the main 

component is colour, 

so if jewellers focus 

on that more than size 

and clarity, they will be 

able to find something 

within their range.” 

Eira Thomas 

Lucara 

CEO 

“Lucara is extremely 

pleased with the 

recovery of these 

rare, sizeable, fancy 

coloured diamonds, 

which have the 

potential to contribute 

meaningful value to 

our regular production 

of large, high-value 

type IIa diamonds.” 

Australian Chocolate Diamonds – deep, 

rich brown diamonds from the Argyle 

Mine – have fulfilled some of the demand 

for an Argyle stone due to stable and 

affordable pricing. 

“We have seen many inquiries in 3-5 carat 

sizes as publicity around the mine closing 

increases and savvy investors are looking 

to broaden their options,” Bolton adds. 

Internationally, Polnauer notes: “In 

larger sizes, yellow diamonds are in 

high demand. However, Argyle diamonds 

are without doubt the most soughtafter 

stones worldwide, 

especially in Australia. 

These beauties all 

want to return home! 

“Unlike colorless 

diamonds, we have 

no Rapaport list to 

follow, so it is often 

challenging knowing 

what is in demand,” 

he adds. 

Swarovski 

Created 

Diamonds 

Color Collection 

Meanwhile, Kunming Diamonds 

customers are interested in pinks – in 

particular those from Argyle – as well 

as blues and colours that have modifiers, 

according to Maheshwari. 

“Orangey-pinks, brownish-pinks, 

greenish-blues – these modifiers give 

the stone added character and personality, 

and are also not as expensive as a pure 

colour,” he explains. 

“The intrinsic value of a colour diamond 

is in the eye of the beholder – some 

appreciate the colour more than the rarity 

factor, which can make it more popular in 

the market, while others appreciate the 

elitism and collect for the exceptionality 

[of a particular colour].” 

In the lab-created category, Schiechtl 

says the “classic colours” of pink, yellow 

and blue have received positive feedback 

for Swarovski since the Color Collection 

launched at Paris Couture Fashion Week 

in January. 

He adds,“People were also very excited 

about colours beyond the classical 

tones, like Neo Expressionist 

Pistachio (light green), Gothic 

Cognac (fancy deep yellow) 

and Heavy Metal Cherry 

(intense red).” 

The Biron Lab Grown range 

includes blue, yellow and pink 

diamonds, with demand concentrated 

on “true pink, without orange overtones”, 

according to Bolton. 

“A lot of consumers looking for pink 

diamonds expect them to be bright, 

saturated pink. That’s the colour most 

consumers are looking for and they are 

also very affordable,” he explains. 

Ultimately, fancy colour diamonds – 

whether natural or lab-grown – offer retail 

jewellers the opportunity to cater to a wide 

variety of customers, create beautiful and 

unique pieces, and improve margins on 

diamond sales. 

Green 

Purple 

Blue 

Grey 

Black 

When natural radiation displaces 

carbon atoms as a diamond is 

forming, it will appear green. 

Lab-grown green diamonds are 

also exposed to radiation but do not 

have the same radiation ‘stains’ on 

their surface as natural greens 

Purple diamonds form naturally 

due to a combination of crystal 

lattice deformation and a high 

hydrogen content. Lab-grown 

purple diamonds are formed 

using irradiation and annealing 

The element boron makes 

diamonds appear blue both in 

nature and when manufactured. 

Interestingly, lab-grown blue 

diamonds form more quickly 

than whites 

Hydrogen atoms give grey 

diamonds their colour. The 

chemical vapour deposition (CVD) 

method for lab-grown diamonds 

usually produces grey or brown 

diamonds, which are then heat 

treated to make them white 

Many very dark inclusions 

make a diamond appear black; 

however, most natural black 

diamonds on the market are 

treated with radiation to make 

the black colour uniform 


Specialists in Australian Pink Argyle Diamonds

FEATURE 

Engagement Jewellery 

WITH THIS RING 

OTHERWISE 

ENGAGED 

The engagement ring category continues to evolve, with jewellers rising to the challenge of reinventing 

the classics – and creating unique designs – for the modern consumer. ARABELLA RODEN reports. 

Engagement rings are the bread and butter 

of the retail jewellery industry. Month after 

month, year after year, excited couples have 

marked one of the most significant moments in their 

lives with the gift of a sparkling diamond ring. 

However, many parts of that traditional love story 

are now changing. 

The couple are just as likely to be well over 30 than they are to 

be under 25, may already have children, almost certainly live 

together, and are choosing a ring to celebrate their relationship 

as it is, rather than formalise an engagement. 

Yet the core element of the gift remains the same: a piece of 

jewellery that lasts forever, reflecting the wearer’s unique style, 

personality, and relationship. 

It is no longer enough to reassure customers that each natural 

diamond is unique; instead, many retailers have evolved their 

businesses to offer a fully personalised experience with greater 

control over the design process. 

Justin Linney, creative director Linneys Jewellery in Perth, tells 

Jeweller, “One customer’s perfect ring is another customer’s 

nightmare, so the number-one priority is finding a design that 

suits their individual style.” 

Steve Der Bedrossian, CEO SAMS Group Australia, which supplies 

engagement rings through its Blush Pink and Pink Kimberley 

brands, adds, “There has been far more demand for individuality 

– unique designs – in engagement rings over the past 12 months. 

We’ve definitely seen a shift.” 

The prevalence of social media – particularly apps such as 

QUICK 

NUMBERS 

70%+ 

Engagement 

rings with 

a white 

diamond 

4.7m 

Instagram 

posts tagged 

#engagementring 

92% 

Proposals shared 

on social media 

Source: The Knot 

Hero Images (L to R): 

SAMS Group Australia | 

Eva Fehren | Graff 

Instagram and Pinterest – as a source of inspiration means 

consumers now have more choice than ever when it comes 

to engagement ring design. 

Some of the most popular Pinterest Boards for engagement 

ring ideas have more than 4,000 images and the app publishes 

an annual report analysing ring trends on its platform. 

The most recent edition, released in October 2019, revealed 

marquise shapes, elongated cushion cuts, turquoise hues, 

lavender sapphires, and seamless halo settings had the most 

significant increases in user searches. 

Meanwhile, engagement rings are now almost guaranteed to 

appear on any number of social media channels. A 2019 survey 

of 21,000 engaged and newlywed US couples, conducted by US 

wedding planning service The Knot, found 92 per cent had 

shared their engagement news on social media. 

At the time of publication, there were 4.7 million Instagram posts 

tagged #engagementring, and 4 million tagged #shesaidyes. As 

a result, consumers are choosing rings that look larger and stand 

out in photos. 

The Knot survey found the average cost of an engagement ring 

was $US5,900, with the style and setting the most important 

consideration, followed by price. 

Both suppliers and retailers have noted the rising popularity 

of oval-cut diamonds over the traditional round. Ovals appear 

significantly larger than rounds of the same carat weight, 

while making the wearer’s fingers seem slimmer. They are 

also less expensive, per carat, than round diamonds. 

Linney has also observed a trend toward thinner bands, which 

make the centre stone appear larger. 

Rising demand for colour gemstones – particularly sapphires, 


Tiffany & Co. 

Larsen Jewellery 

Ruth Tomlinson 

colour diamonds, and pearls – also speaks 

to consumers’ preference for unique and 

photogenic jewellery. 

by 

Ikecho Australia 


Tomasz Donocik 

Linneys Jewellery 

Megan Thorne 

“We have seen more demand for Argyle pink 

diamond centre stones and accent stones due 

to the upcoming closure of the mine,” says Der 

Bedrossian, adding, “Using a ruby or an opal 

as the centre stone while adding pink diamond 

accents gives the ring a larger appearance and 

a unique look, while taking into account the 

customer’s budget.” 

The surge in popularity for unusual rings may 

also be inspired by celebrities like Emma Stone 

and Michelle Williams, who both received pearl 

engagement rings in 2019. Meanwhile, actress 

Scarlett Johansson’s Art Deco-inspired black 

ceramic enagement ring is adorned with an 

11-carat champagne diamond. 

Alex Graham, bridal director Stuller, says, 

“From a gemstone standpoint, we are seeing 

a lot of unique centre stones. Each bride wants 

something that speaks just to her. 

“Eternity and anniversary bands are also 

becoming more and more popular, sometimes 

being used as the actual engagement ring 

instead of a traditional ring with the primary 

centre stone.” 

Classic white diamond rings, too, are being 

embellished with unconventional and personal 

touches – whether through unusual shapes, 

creative settings, or accent stones. 

“We are still seeing a high percentage of our 

clients opting for white diamonds, although they 

are often open to different designs other than 

the classic solitaire,” says Linney. 

At Worth & Douglas – which manufactures its 

own engagement collection, custom designs, 

and Karen Walker Atelier engagement rings – 

the desire for a personal ring has been reflected 

in increasing requests for custom makes. 

“Customers are looking to find something truly 

special or custom that reflects their tastes and 

suits their own styles, so we’re seeing a lot of 

unique CAD designs come through,” confirms 

Chris Worth, business development manager. 

Indeed, the definition of the ‘perfect’ 

engagement ring – once considered to be the 

largest, most flawless diamond solitaire a 

Proudly distributed by 

02 9417 0177 | www.dgau.com.au 


Artëmer 

Chaumet

Harry Winston 

Rachel Boston 

Paul Bram 

SAMS GROUP 

AUSTRALIA 

hopeful fiancé could afford – now appears to be 

too narrow for most consumers. 

Instead, the ‘4 Cs’ have been replaced by a 

new mindset that emphasises individual taste, 

creative design, and personal touches that tell 

a story and make the ring stand out. 

Colour and creativity 

The Art Deco period, which began in 1920, marks 

its centenary this year. As a result, there has 

been a resurgence in Art Deco-inspired patterns, 

shapes and motifs in jewellery. 

This distinctive era of design is characterised by 

use of colour, geometric shapes, and filigree – 

all trends becoming more prevalent in 

engagement rings. Notably, Princess Beatrice of 

York received an Art Deco-inspired engagement 

ring in September 2019, which featured round 

and baguette diamonds in a platinum setting. 

“I have seen Art Deco coming back into the 

spotlight recently,” Stuller’s Graham says, adding 

that “designs that play with scattered accents or 

halos” have also become more popular. 

At Worth & Douglas, the Karen Walker Atelier 

engagement collection includes three-ring sets 

with colour gemstone centres, which interlock 

in Art Deco-style square and hexagonal patterns. 

Demand for colour gemstone and fancy diamond 

engagement rings has been steadily rising over 

the past few years, and they are now firmly in 

the mainstream. 

“Certainly, there has been a big surge in demand 

for coloured gemstones,” confirms Worth. 

The Karen Walker Atelier range includes rings 

set with morganite, onyx, rutilated quartz, and 

even peach moonstone, accented with white, 

black, or champagne diamonds. 

At Linneys Jewellery, customers “often request 

gems that would be considered unusual,” says 

Linney. “More recently, we have seen customers 

choose pearls, black diamonds, grey diamonds 

and green sapphires.” 

Melbourne jeweller Simon West points to the 

popularity of sapphires “of Australian origin in 

particular”, alongside champagne diamonds 

from Western Australia’s Argyle Mine. 

At Stuller, the most sought-after gemstone is 


Victoria Buckley 

Tiffany & Co 

Diamonds By DGA 

Cerrone 

Precious Gemstone & Diamond Set Jewellery 

Sapphire, Paraiba & Emerald with Argyle Pink Diamonds 

A delicious range of natural precious gemstone jewellery set with 

sparkling white diamonds, available in every colour of the rainbow! 

Beautifully crafted in 18ct gold. 

Rebecca Overmann 

Eva Fehren 

Karen Walker Atelier 

E pink@samsgroup.com.au W samsgroup.com.au P 02 9290 2199

Engagement Feature | OTHERWISE ENGAGED 

LEVERAGING SOCIAL MEDIA FOR SALES SUCCESS 

In the past, the process of buying an engagement ring followed 

a traditional path: a man would visit a jewellery store, purchase 

the white diamond ring recommended to him by the staff, and 

present it to his partner as a surprise. 

One of the strongest indications of change in the engagement 

category is the success of US jewellery business Ring 

Concierge, which offers several key lessons for retail jewellers 

wanting to improve their engagement sales. 

Ring Concierge was founded by Nicole Wegman in 2013 based 

on a female-focused, e-commerce approach to engagement. 

“At our core, Ring Concierge is a brand for women, by women,” 

Wegman tells Jeweller, adding that the business aims to 

“empower women to be involved” in the design process: “We 

work with couples to design their dream custom ring, from the 

diamond they select to the details of the handmade setting.” 

The business was also established to challenge the 

“traditionally opaque” diamond industry, with Wegman 

explaining, “We set ourselves apart by cultivating genuine 

relationships through transparency and integrity.” 

She calls social media “instrumental” to Ring Concierge’s 

success. Its Instagram account has more than 290,000 

followers, with Wegman revealing, “Over 90 per cent of our 

new clientele find us through Instagram.” 

Indeed, visual social media apps such as Instagram and 

Pinterest are a key source of inspiration for women when 

choosing their ‘dream ring’. “When a celebrity debuts a cool 

new engagement ring style [on social media], we instantly 

see requests for it. For example, we made a very unique triplerow 

micro-pavé setting for [Victoria’s Secret model] Devon 

Windsor and it became so popular we’ve since named it The 

Devon,” Wegman explains. 

Ring Concierge has developed its own criteria – beyond GIA 

certification – to assess a stone’s “overall beauty and liveliness” 

called the ‘RC Diamond Make’: “This is why all of the diamonds 

on our Instagram look so beautiful,” says Wegman. 

In 2019, Ring Concierge’s most ‘liked’ engagement ring 

belonged to US The Bachelorette star JoJo Fletcher. “She 

has our signature Whisper Thin band with a hidden halo – 

it’s a gorgeous ring,” says Wegman. 

Putting female customers at the centre of the purchasing 

process, utilising social media effectively, and paying attention 

to trends – particularly those of celebrities – are important 

strategies in the new engagement ring environment. 

32 | March 2020 

IMPROVE YOUR 

ENGAGEMENT 

ENGAGEMENT RING HASHTAGS TO USE & FOLLOW: 

#engaged 13.1m 

#ido 4.9m 

#engagementring 4.7m 

#shesaidyes 4m 

#gettingmarried 2.8m 

#isaidyes 2.4m 

#diamondring 2.3m 

#justengaged 758k 

#engagedlife 715k 

#heputaringonit 389k 

#howheasked 360k 

#gettinghitched 304k 

#imengaged 

291k 

#tyingtheknot 240k 

#weregettingmarried 233k 

#hesaidyes 

122k 

Jennifer Lopez 

16-carat emerald cut 

diamond set in white metal 

Emma Stone 

Pearl with diamond halo 

set in ‘beige’ gold 

Devon Windsor 

Oval diamond with triplerow 

micro-pavé setting 

Bindi Irwin 

2-carat oval solitaire 

diamond set in rose gold 

Scarlett Johansson 

11-carat pear champagne 

diamond on ceramic band 

Hailey Bieber 

6-carat oval diamond 

set in gold 

Michelle Williams 

Pearl set in white gold 

also sapphire – mostly for its ability to fulfil customers’ desire 

for a range of colours, Graham explains. 

She notes that teal, purple, peachy pink and ‘earthy green’ 

sapphires have been most in-demand in recent months. 

Tourmaline, spinel, and garnet across the same palette are also 

frequently requested. “We also have a lot of brides asking for 

bi- and tri-colour sapphire and tourmaline, which is lovely as 

you really don’t get more one of a kind!”she adds. 

Fresh twist on the classic 

While a significant proportion of customers are now opting 

for alternative gems – including fancy colour diamonds – the 

traditional white diamond remains the top choice for many. 

West says 70 per cent of his engagement ring customers still 

select the classic stone, with a preference for Argyle origin. 

Duraflex Group Australia launched an affordable finished 

jewellery collection, Diamonds By DGA, in September 2019. 

Its engagement ring range features white diamonds of varying 

sizes in clarity I1, colour H-I, set in either 9- or 18-carat 

white or yellow gold. 

Duraflex managing director Phil Edwards says “the classics – 

single stone solitaires” have proven most popular to date. 

“The feedback has been excellent and we are hence planning 

to grow this offering from DGA,” Edwards adds. “A range of 

new styles and rose gold settings will be available in 2020.” 

Indeed, Worth confirms “there are still many who are partial 

to the classic solitaire”, while Graham calls it “ever-popular”. 

Alongside ovals, unusual shapes including pear and marquise 

have also been in demand as centre stones. Indeed, there are a 

significant number of brides-to-be willing to branch out in order 

to enhance the impact of their diamond. 

Different settings, as well as using unusually-shaped accent 

stones, can enhance visual appeal or give an heirloom diamond 

a fresh and modern look. 

“There is a shift towards asymmetrical designs that look more 

fluid and interesting to the eye,” says Graham. “This isn’t to 

say that we aren’t still seeing demand for classic solitaires – 

simplicity is a trend on its own that I’ve seen coming back into 

play – but brides are pairing that solitaire more and more with 

a fancy shape contour over a simple matched band.” 

Meanwhile, Der Bedrossian has noticed increased demand 

for halo designs in the past 12 months – in particular, those 

featuring pink diamonds from the Argyle Mine. 

Consumers have shown a desire for the classic engagement 

ring metals of white gold and platinum, which complement 

and enhance the sparkle of white diamonds. Meanwhile, 

traditional yellow gold and feminine rose gold still attract 

a significant proportion of shoppers. 

At Stuller, Graham observes that wedding and engagement 

band designs appear to have been influenced by fashion 

jewellery trends such as ‘stacking’ rings and a ‘pop’ of colour. 

At the same time, Worth notes that the traditional matching 

engagement and wedding ring set “remains the most popular”, 

though custom two- and three-piece sets, with bands made to 

fit around an unusual centre stone, have also garnered interest. 

Consumers’ desire for both ‘traditional with a twist’ and unique, 

custom makes ensures the engagement ring category offers 

jewellers both sales opportunities and creative challenges.

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INDUSTRY FEATURE 

Buying Groups Report 

JOINING FORCES FOR THE FUTURE 

STRENGTH in NUMBERS 

Alone we can do so little; together we can do so much – so goes the old adage, and in the current business climate 

that could not be more true. COLEBY NICHOLSON explores the benefits of joining a buying group. 

It feels as if it’s every second day that we read about 

another retailer closing its doors. Economic and 

financial causes aren’t the only issues at play; 

Australia has also had to contend with drought, floods, 

fires and now the coronavirus, all of which have taken 

their toll on the already fragile retail industry. 

Colin Pocklington, managing director Nationwide Jewellers – 

Australia and New Zealand’s largest buying group – says, “The 

conservative spending of consumers continues to adversely affect 

the industry. Until we see real growth in incomes and an easing 

in cost of living, we are unlikely to see growth of sales.” 

He sees tenancy costs as a significant and ongoing issue for the 

industry, with many of his members “seeking rent reductions to 

bring their occupancy costs back in-line with industry benchmarks.” 

Carson Webb, general manager Showcase Jewellers, provides 

a good insight into the mismatch between store revenue and retail 

tenancy costs: “When a jeweller signed a $75,000 lease, say, five 

years ago, that lease has now risen to around $91,000. 

“Have the jeweller’s sales increased proportionally over that period? 

The statistics will tell you that they haven’t. And what about the 

legislated wage increases that they have no control over?” 

According to Charlie Davey, general manager of members and 

category management at Leading Edge Group Jewellers, there is 

another problem facing retailers in large shopping centres. While 

some landlords may not be increasing rents (though they are not 

dropping them either), already high tenancy costs have forced 

many anchor tenants to leave centres. 

QUICK 

NUMBERS 

36% 

Of all buying 

group member 

stores are 

located in 

NSW 

108 

Number of 

member 

stores in New 

Zealand 

4% 

Of all buying 

group 

members are 

located in 

Tasmania 

“Rising rents and increases in basic business costs continue to 

challenge some retailers who must deal with a decrease in foot 

traffic, due to some of the bigger players such as Big W pulling 

out of regional centres,” Davey explains. 

It’s a valid point because the number of shoppers who visit the 

centre in part determines the value of a lease. 

If ‘foot traffic’ is declining, while at the same time tenancy costs 

are rising, it’s a recipe for disaster. 

That is one of the reasons large retail chains are closing stores – 

or worse, being placed into liquidation – sometimes as part of a 

restructure plan in order to renegotiate existing long-term leases 

with landlords. 

Pocklington points to the number of store closures to illustrate 

the seriousness of the situation. “More than 300 Australian jewellery 

stores – representing 10 per cent of all retailers – have closed in 

the last four years, with the main factor being falling sales. 

“Without doubt, the biggest challenge has been the significant drop 

in jewellery industry sales over the last three to four years.” 

He monitors the industry closely, regularly visiting cities and towns 

and noting stores that have closed or opened, so his finger is firmly 

on the pulse. 

However it’s important to acknowledge that not all the challenges 

faced by jewellers are economic or financial. 

Changes in consumer behaviour 

The world has changed largely because of the internet and, along 

with it, consumer habits.“Over the past two years, I think the 

changing face of our consumers and their purchasing habits is 


something that remains challenging 

for many independent jewellers,” says 

Josh Zarb, CEO of Australia’s newest 

buying group, Independent Jewellers 

Collective (IJC). 

“Everyone in retail today needs to really 

look at their marketing to ensure it aligns 

with the image of the in-store shopping 

experience and product offering. 

“I am seeing a disconnect, sometimes, 

between social media content and web 

content versus the physical store. This 

confuses the consumer and can lead to 

lost sales.” 

Davey agrees: “Bricks-and-mortar retailers 

are suffering due to the online shopping 

experience. With each store closure in 

regional Australia comes a loss of brands 

and items someone once purchased. 

“This drives consumers online to 

replenish those items – encouraging 

online shopping in people who have 

traditionally shopped locally. 

“Customers are also disillusioned with 

the overall retail experience that they 

are receiving, as customer service seems 

to be almost non-existent – especially in 

chain and department stores.” 

While there are many challenges facing 

the local and international jewellery 

industry, Webb is quick to address the 

‘glass half-empty mentality’ that can 

permeate any industry during tough times. 

“Aside from all the difficulties, the real 

danger I see is the danger from ourselves, 

as the retailer, getting stuck in the 

negative talk and becoming irrelevant to 

the consumer. The consumer doesn’t need 

to put up with mediocrity anymore,” Webb 

explains. 

“If you can’t do it, or whinge about it, 

someone else will do it. You cannot afford 

to get bogged down in the negative ‘speak’ 

that floats around our industry about 

products, brands and even each other. 

“A good example is lab-grown diamonds 

– it’s a massive opportunity for many 

retailers who are ready to embrace them.” 

Webb doesn’t see the current retail 

environment as an ‘us versus them’ 

fight: “It’s about transparency and giving 

consumers a choice [with lab-created 

diamonds]. Let’s get on with it and stop 

trying to pull each other down! 

“Our amazing industry needs better 

cohesion and a few more smiles and high 

fives, not constant beat ups. We have an 

amazing industry that offers consumers 

emotional engagement like no other can. 

Make it count!” 

Colin Pocklington 

Nationwide Jewellers 

“We recognised the 

start of these difficult 

trading conditions 

back in mid-2016 and 

started developing 

strategies, training 

and marketing 

initiatives to assist 

members.” 

Charlie Davey 

Leading Edge Group 

“Rising rents and 

increases in basic 

business costs 

continue to challenge 

some retailers who 

must deal with a 

decrease in foot 

traffic, due to some of 

the bigger players... 

pulling out of regional 

centres.” 

Carson Webb 

Showcase Jewellers 

“Aside from all the 

difficulties, the 

real danger I see 

is the danger from 

ourselves, as the 

retailer, getting 

stuck in the negative 

talk and becoming 

irrelevant.” 

Josh Zarb 

Independent Jewellers 

Collective 

“Everyone in retail 

today needs to 

really look at their 

marketing to ensure 

it aligns with the 

image of the in-store 

shopping experience 

and product offering.” 

GROUP TOTALS AUSTRALIA 

TYPE NATIONWIDE SHOWCASE LEADING EDGE TOTAL 

MEMBERS 322 138 89 549 

STORES 371 184 124 679 

GROUP TOTALS NEW ZEALAND 

TYPE NATIONWIDE SHOWCASE LEADING EDGE TOTAL 

MEMBERS 76 19 2 97 

STORES 85 19 4 108 

GROUP TOTALS INTERNATIONAL 

TYPE 

NATIONWIDE 

FIJI 

This is perhaps where the benefits of safety 

in numbers becomes vital; membership to 

a buying group offers a range of support 

not readily available to individual stores. 

Searching for solutions 

SHOWCASE 

VANUATU 

MEMBERS 1 1 2 

STORES 5 1 6 

Zarb explains that there is no simple 

answer to solve the challenges retailers 

currently face. 

“Unfortunately, there is no one ‘magic 

bullet’ that will be the single solution to 

thrive in today’s retail climate,” he says. 

However, that doesn’t mean there is 

nothing retailers can do to improve:“If 

I had to get specific, I would suggest that 

retailers really focus on identifying who 

their customer is and start to ensure their 

marketing targets them. 

“I would recommend that, if they are 

struggling, they reach out for assistance. 

All the groups offer numerous support 

services to assist their members.” 

Pocklington says, “We recognised the 

start of these difficult trading conditions 

back in mid-2016 and started developing 

strategies, training and marketing 

initiatives to assist members in maintaining 

profitability in a declining market. 

“We have provided the information and 

resources for members to implement the 

seven strategies for retail jewellers that 

we identified.” 

In the new digital world, where consumers 

are spoilt for choice of product and, more 

importantly these days, choice of service 

and customer experience, Pocklington 

believes retailers should undertake more 

marketing activity each month, across 

TOTAL 

Members and stores outside of Australia and New Zealand 

TOTAL NUMBER 

793 648 

STORES 

MEMBERS 

more channels and platforms. 

They should also look to offer different 

merchandise with different price points 

than their competitors, especially 

chain stores. 

He advises Nationwide members that 

better inventory management can also 

substantially improve profitability. 

“Increasing the stock turn by 0.2 can add 

$250,000 in cash to the average jewellery 

shop over five years,” Pocklington says. 

Webb has similar advice. “To deal with 

the current retail environment we advise 

two things. First, work your stock levels 

smarter. Customers are wanting ‘the same, 

but different’. Adjust now, or you’ll drown 

in stock. The average store is sitting at 38 

per cent of stock value over two years old. 

“Secondly, a really pertinent question 

to ask is, ‘Why me?’ Why should the 

customer in your area, town, city or even 

online, shop with you? Why are you any 

different or special? 

“If you can answer that honestly, and your 

customer agrees with you, then you’re on 

the right track indeed.” 

Webb says many Showcase members who 

focus on custom design and manufacture, 

and specialise in fine jewellery, are 

performing very well. 

“Our retail numbers are 7 per cent up on 

last year’s results for the last six months, 

with diamond business now making up 

more than 36 per cent of total sales. 

I remember some eight years ago it was 

only around 20 per cent. While keeping 

it simple is the answer, simple isn’t 


Industry Feature | BUYING GROUPS REPORT 

NATIONWIDE - AUSTRALIA 

COMPARISON NSW VIC QLD WA SA TAS ACT NT TOTAL 

2020 - MEMBERS 114 67 66 25 27 11 9 3 322 

2018 - MEMBERS 108 77 67 30 33 10 8 2 335 

Variance 6 -10 -1 -5 -6 1 1 1 -13 

2020 - STORES 134 81 76 26 29 12 10 3 371 

2018 - STORES 127 94 82 32 34 10 12 2 393 

Variance 7 -13 -6 -6 -5 2 -2 1 -22 

Excludes 76 members and 85 stores in NZ and 1 member with 5 stores in Fiji 

necessarily easy to do!” he says. 

Davey says it’s vital for jewellers to 

concentrate on great customer service 

and creating unique environments – 

shopping experiences that can’t be 

matched by online competitors. 

“Focus on providing a seamless customer 

shopping experience, from the presentation 

of your store, website and mobile 

interaction. Continue to review your cost 

of doing business and review the options 

available for payments, utilities and rent, 

and where needed, get help from your 

network,” he advises. 

Choosing a buying group 

If consumer confidence is low, retail 

spending down, and shopping behaviour 

has dramatically changed, what can 

independent jewellers do to stem the tide? 

There’s no doubt that one answer is the 

concept of unity, and Australian retailers 

have long had three distinct buying groups 

from which to chose, all offering different 

business models. 

However, with the announcement in 

January this year of Zarb’s new group, 

Independent Jewellers Collective, there’s 

now a fourth option. 

“IJC is perfect for proactive retailers that 

want to grow their business and share in 

a tight network of like-minded retailers. 

We offer a very simple and inexpensive 

business model that offers maximum 

hands-on support in all the areas that 

they would need help. 

“We have a very experienced management 

LEADING EDGE - AUSTRALIA 

team that specialises in assistance for 

independent jewellery retail, and we also 

have some unique third-party partnerships 

that we offer in our IJC Vault of services to 

ensure they have access to specialists in 

every area of their business,” Zarb says. 

While the other three groups have 

established membership bases – all of 

which have been affected by store closures 

and retirements – Zarb still believes there’s 

a niche for IJC. 

“We have now completed a tour of the 

country launching IJC officially across five 

states, with other meetings planned for 

retailers who had submitted an expression 

of interest that were not able to make one 

of the sessions. 

“We always had a plan to go to market 

with 40-plus stores. I am pleased to 

say that we received more than that 

number of expressions of interest within 

the first day of our launch announcement 

being released. 

“We have subsequently presented to even 

more stores during the state meetings,” 

Zarb explains. 

He notes that while it is still early days, 

he has been overwhelmed with the positive 

feedback from retailers. 

“We are receiving application forms daily 

as a result and are now confident that we 

will meet our minimum store number for 

launch – and we may even exceed it, based 

on discussions to date. IJC aims to partner 

with a smaller number of proactive retailers 

and grow accordingly as our model is very 

much about tailored one-on-one support.” 



2018 - MEMBERS 54 23 26 9 17 3 1 2 135 

Variance -15 -8 -14 -4 -5 -1 0 1 -46 


2018 - STORES 70 52 29 10 19 3 2 10 195 

Variance -24 -16 -13 -3 -6 -1 -1 -7 -71 

Excludes 2 members and 4 stores in NZ 

ABOUT 

SUPPLIERS 

“We limit the number 

of preferred suppliers 

in each category, 

to ensure that their 

involvement with the 

group will help them 

improve their market 

share.” 



“Where we see 

potential in a new 

product or supplier 

we present a business 

case to our members 

to assist their 

decision making.” 

Charlie Davey 


“We also don’t need 

more of the same 

product, for new 

suppliers there 

must be a point of 

difference.” 

Carson Webb 


“When looking for 

new suppliers, we 

look for product 

that has a point of 

difference from our 

existing suppliers.” 

Josh Zarb 


Collective 

Like all other industries, the original 

reason for joining a buying group was to 

take advantage of the trade discounts from 

suppliers – however, Pocklington says that 

is a very outdated model. 

“In the past ten years the main reason for 

joining has been the need for expert industry 

support. Our team of highly experienced, 

jewellery specific professionals cover 

all disciplines including marketing, 

merchandise, human resources, and 

training, as well as business planning 

and advice. 

“Nationwide can provide a wide range of 

essential support for independent retailers. 

Having these resources available is always 

important, but even more so in a difficult 

economy,” Pocklington adds. 

The backing of a buying group when 

negotiating leases or lease renewals can 

pay for itself many times over, given the 

potential savings. 

Davey says the main reasons for 

independent stores to consider 

membership of a buying group are “to grow 

and drive sales into their stores, through 

traditional means and online strategies, 

for support with marketing, training and 

development, and for access to central 

billing with more than 140 suppliers.” 

Leading Edge members also receive free 

membership to the Australian Retailers 

Association, which Davey says ensures 

there is a wealth of knowledge and support 

behind every member. 

“Our members receive the best discounts 

the industry has to offer in terms of 

payment platforms, EFT rates, shipping 

costs and exchange rates. In addition, 

our MMC and Aurora Diamonds ranges 

offer exclusive jewellery to our members 

at prices not available to other retailers,” 

he explains. 

Webb agrees that in today’s business 

climate joining a buying group is not about 

trade discounts. 

“The Showcase model means that 

members are the owners and shareholders 

of Showcase, we aren’t privately owned like 

others. Joining our group should not be just 

for discounts or finance. 

“While they are elements that fit into the 

bigger picture, I believe that if you join any 

group for only those reasons, then you’ll 

be doing the wrong thing for the long-term 

viability of your business,” he explains. 

“Jewellers join to be part of a network of 

support and training, with focus groups, 

product assistance, access to exclusive 

opportunities that they would not get by 

themselves, marketing resources that are 

customised to suit them, a centralised 

account, and amazing travel opportunities 


SHOWCASE - AUSTRALIA 



2018 - MEMBERS 61 30 40 7 5 8 0 1 152 

Variance -8 0 -2 -2 -1 -1 0 0 -14 


2018 - STORES 76 47 63 10 5 10 0 1 212 

Variance -11 -5 -6 -3 -1 -2 0 0 -28 

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Excludes 19 members and 19 stores in NZ and 1 member with 1 store in Vanautu 

such as visiting factories and meeting large 

retailers around the world. 

“Having a large resource of knowledge and 

support that also cares about you like a family 

member, and will fight for you, push you, support 

you, and guide you almost 24/7, is priceless,” 

Webb adds. 

Showcase members also receive free membership 

to the Australian Retailers Association and its Kiwi 

members receive membership to the equivalent 

New Zealand body. 

Equipped for the future 

As the business climate has changed, and as 

traditional retailing has come to grips with digital 

competition, training and education have become 

the cornerstones of all the buying groups. 

Pocklington explains the importance of being able 

to benchmark your store against other, similar 

stores is vital: “In the past two years, we have 

created a 12-month trading budget for more 

than 150 of our members, and in the process 

benchmarked their business and provided 

them with the precise actions needed to improve 

their profitability.” 

He adds, “Our one-day Retail Jewellery Business 

Management Course, valued at $5,000 but 

free for members, is now in its third year and 

more than 100 members have completed it in 

Australia and New Zealand. 

“The course introduces several important aspects 

of retail science and shows members how to 

implement the seven strategies for retail success.” 

Before launching IJC, Zarb conducted a review of 

the marketplace in order to find the new buying 

group’s niche. 

He tells Jeweller, “Everything we offer at IJC aims 

at specific one-on-one support for our retailer 

partners – and our business model also ensures 

that our stores are always accruing funds to make 

use of our IJC Vault of services. 

“Upon joining the Independent Jewellers 

Collective, partners will receive a free Business 

Health Check, covering staffing levels, stock 

holding, merchandising, marketing and overall 

business performance and profitability – delivered 

in a ‘real world’ solution package. 

“This is at the heart of our offer and 

recommendations will be provided on which levers 

to pull, and when, to create the biggest impact on 

our member’s bottom line,” Zarb adds. 

While retail buying groups do not offer the elusive 

panacea – and may not be the right choice for 

every independent jeweller – as the business 

world becomes increasingly competitive and 

complicated, they do offer a safe harbour within 

which like-minded business owners can seek 

protection and assistance in order to flourish. 

Better still, jewellers now have a choice of four 

groups – all with different business models and 

advantages – to suit their specific needs. 

Are discounts the most important factor in joining a buying group? 

“While discounts play a 

role, other areas of the 

membership offer are 

more important. These 

include experience driving 

sales into store to increase 

turnover, and experience 

developing store-specific 

clearance strategies that 

will not undermine gross 

profit. Gross profit and net 

profit are benchmarks to 

determine the health of 

a business, so any area 

affecting these benchmarks 

is vitally important.” 

Charlie Davey 


“Our vision is unchanged: 

we believe that members 

always come first, so 

we not only provide the 

largest discount back to 

the retailer, but any profits 

made throughout the year 

are also passed back to our 

members. Would you prefer 

an extra 5 or 10 per cent 

from your supplier, or let 

the group take that discount 

and provide you with free 

marketing, business 

support, and everything 

else?” 

Carson Webb 


“Discounts are still 

important, which is why we 

give a written guarantee 

that any jeweller joining 

Nationwide will be 

financially better off with our 

trade discounts, member 

rewards and no-fees-orcharges 

structure. A recent 

reconciliation for several 

new members showed that, 

depending on the mix of 

their purchases, they were 2 

to 5 per cent better off with 

Nationwide.” 



“Discounts are definitely 

important. However, the 

reality is that all buying 

groups offer very similar 

net discounts after 

everything is factored in. 

The real choice is then 

down to what level of 

support you would like. 

IJC falls into the boutique 

service category, with 

high-quality, one-on-one 

service and a smaller 

number of retailers.” 

Josh Zarb 


Collective 

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with Colin Pocklington, Managing Director 

Est. 1991 | 1 BOARD MEMBER 

02 9418 0000 • NATIONWIDEJEWELLERS.COM.AU 

Strength in 

Numbers 

Total 

Members 

399 322 

76 

1 

Australia 

NZ 

Fiji 

Total 

Stores 

461 

371 

85 

5 

Australia 

NZ 

Fiji 

What are the prerequisites for joining? 

We consider applications from any jewellery 

store, including those that specialise in 

design and manufacture, providing they 

are not too close to an existing member. 

Nationwide’s team of industry experts, 

extensive resources and technology systems 

allows us to effectively deliver our range of 

benefits and services to retailers, including 

the 450-plus stores in our group. 

What are the benefits of joining? 

For nearly 30 years, our team has been 

providing members with the resources 

and information to achieve best practice in 

the jewellery industry. We guarantee that 

members will be financially better off with 

our trade discounts and no-fees structure. 

In retail, it is essential to promote your 

strengths, which is why all of our marketing 

resources are aimed at supporting and 

reinforcing the independence of our 

members, as well as custom design 

and manufacture. 

We also provide a huge range of resources 

covering merchandise, product knowledge, 

human resources, training, business 

planning and more. Most are available 

through our business college and website. 

At Nationwide, we work hard to help our 

members in all aspects of their business, 

and we welcome the opportunity to show 

what we can do. We add significant value to 

an independent jeweller’s business, at no 

cost, and without risk. 

What unique benefits are offered? 

Our comprehensive Antwerp marketing plan 

and resources have delivered millions in 

additional diamond sales for our members, 

including two members who made pre-trip 

diamond sales of more than $200,000. 

Over the past 20 years our members have, 

collectively, made in excess of a thousand 

trips to Antwerp. 

More than 100 Nationwide members have 

attended our one-day Retail Jewellery 

Business Management Course. The ten 

modules cover key aspects of retail that are 

essential for increasing market share and 

profitability in difficult trading conditions. 

The course is valued at $5,000 but is free 

for members. 

Our trademarked Custom Design Jewellers 

program also helps generate additional 

business through custom makes and 

remodelling. 

What are your major achievements 

over the past two years? 

Our new digital platform, launched in 

late 2019, provides websites that can 

be personalised to suit each member’s 

business. Members can feature and sell 

their own stock and can create their own 

e-marketing material for use in social 

media and on their website, as well as 

build supporting e-catalogues. 

In addition, our upcoming diamond directory 

will make buying and selling diamonds a lot 

easier. Members will have more than 20,000 

diamonds to choose from and show to their 

customers via the retail-focused front end. 

Has your traditional marketing 

changed in the past two years? 

There has been a much stronger focus on 

digital marketing, including social media 

and websites. Our national campaigns on 

the YouTube platform have also been highly 

successful in promoting Antwerp diamonds 

and custom design for members. 

How have you improved your B2C and 

social media marketing strategy? 

At our June conference we will be 

demonstrating the functionality of our new 

digital platform that allows members to 

create their own marketing. The keynote 

speaker at our conference will be Crystal 

Vilkaitis from Crystal Media, one of the 

world’s foremost experts in social media 

marketing for independent retailers. Crystal 

will also be running an advanced workshop 

on Facebook advertising. 

Our in-house graphic artists are also 

continually expanding our library of social 

media material – a free service which is 

available to all members. 

NATIONWIDE 

Top 3 

Advantages 

• Exceptional 

educational 

resources for 

improving 

market share, 

cashflow 

and product 

knowledge 

• Fully 

integrated 

digital 

platform for 

e-commerce 

and marketing 

• Antwerp 

diamond trips 

and overseas 

conferences 

How have you improved your B2B 

and internal technology? 

With the assistance of our preferred 

suppliers, we have been populating our 

new e-warehouse with product and images. 

Members will soon be able to use it to 

extract the images for their websites, 

social media and e-marketing. They will 

also be able to use this B2B channel to 

order products directly from suppliers. 

What other promotional support 

do you offer members? 

Alongside our marketing team, our two 

in-house graphic designers are available to 

help members build marketing support for 

campaigns, displays, and sales, and fulfil 

any other design need that a member might 

have. There are also numerous promotions 

downloadable at any time from our website. 

How do you support local jewellery 

manufacturers? 

Manufacturers can promote their products 

directly to members via our online portal. 

They can also promote their products 

in our e-warehouse and, soon, in our 

diamond directory. Additionally, our annual 

conferences attract around 200 members, 

ensuring a highly successful buying event 

for local manufacturers. 

What is the cost of membership? 

There are no joining fees, administration 

fees, agency fees, or technology fees, and 

no security deposits. We do not charge fees 

of any kind. A membership with Nationwide 

is entirely free. 

How have you improved your training 

and education over the past two years? 

Apart from our one-day business 

management course, we also run seminars 

and workshops at our annual conference, 

and at the International Jewellery & 

Watch Fair in Sydney. We also provide 

education for members and their staff to 

improve their sales skills and jewelleryspecific 

knowledge, with diamond grading 

workshops and access to Gemological 

Institute of America (GIA) courses. 


FREE 

SUPPORT SERVICES FOR 

INDEPENDENT JEWELLERS 

No joining fee • No agency fee • no security deposits 

no fees ever! 

• Marketing • Sales Training • Business Planning 

• Industry experts at your fingertips 

Up to $200,000 interest free finance for stock 

- STAY 100% INDEPENDENT - 

the largest network with over 450 jewellery stores 

P: +61 2 9418 0000 

E: info@jgbs.com 

www.jgbs.com

ADVERTISEMENT 



with Carson Webb, General Manager 

Est. 1981 | 5 BOARD MEMBERS 

02 8566 1800 • SHOWCASEJEWELLERS.COM.AU 

Strength in 

Total 

158 138 Australia 

Total 

Numbers 204 184 

Members 

19 NZ 

Stores 

19 

1 Vanuatu 

1 

Australia 

NZ 

Vanuatu 


We look for integrity as an important quality 

in a new member. Additionally, operating a 

jewellery business with high standards in 

presentation and excellent customer service 

is always preferred. 


There are no management fees and no setup 

fee or security deposit of any kind – you 

simply join Showcase, a member-owned 

organisation, while retaining your own 

name and brand. 

Supplier discounts are returned directly to 

our members and not kept by the group to 

fund other ‘free’ benefits. 

Showcase offers unbeatable insurance and 

EFTPOS rates and free Australian Retailers 

Association (ARA) membership, and the 

equivalent resource for our New Zealand 

members. 

Another major benefit is access to diamond 

brands, including exclusive rights to certified 

Argyle white diamonds and Swarovski labgrown 

diamonds. 

Showcase also offers free website 

development using a customisable, 

mobile ready e-commerce platform. 

There is also free integration with the 

Retail Edge POS system. 

Other benefits include in-house product 

photography, videos and free image 

libraries, and world-class e-learning 

complete with videos, certified human 

resources courses and templates, and an 

on-line toolbox for all your marketing and 

promotional needs. 

Finally, we are the only buying group to 

offer fully franked dividends and returns 

on trading loans for our members. 


JIMACO [Showcase Jewellers] is a 

member-owned buying group that operates 

exclusively for independent jewellery 

retailers. All profits go back to our members 

– we exist purely for them to thrive. 

What are your major achievements over 

the past two years? 

Showcase is the first group to create an 

Australian diamond program through an 

exclusive partnership with Rio Tinto, which 

operates the Argyle Mine. 

Our Dreamtime brand, which features 

Argyle diamonds, is a wonderful success 

and continues to grow. We also continue 

to enjoy success with our diamond brand 

Passion8 and have negotiated exclusive 

rights to Swarovski Created Diamonds, 

including a creative license. 

We had some of our best financial results 

over the 2019 financial year, and members 

received a fully franked dividend as a result. 

The ongoing rollout of our B2B portals and 

member websites has had fabulous results, 

and we are launching a fully customisable 

catalogue facility. 

Additionally, our Journeys of the Heart 

catalogue campaign provided $500,000 

worth of stock and an amazing top-quality 

catalogue to the jeweller for a two-week 

period, free, which had incredible results 

for retailers. 

Has your traditional marketing changed 

in the past two years? 

Traditional media – while a small portion of 

our offering – still plays an important role, 

especially in regional areas. We also present 

every campaign in a full digital package, 

making it easy to apply across most 

channels. Everything we do is also mobile 

device friendly. 



As a group, we have moved away from 

B2C. Instead, we are concentrating on our 

members integrating Retail Edge with their 

own POS as it covers all the bases for them. 

How have you improved your B2B and 

internal technology? 

We are well equipped in e-commerce, with 

an internationally linked B2B portal. Our 

platform covers everything from access 

SHOWCASE 

Top 3 

Advantages 

• Memberowned 

and 

operated 

buying group 

paying fully 

franked 

dividends 

• Exclusive 

diamond 

brands 

including 

Argyle 

Dreamtime 

and Swarovski 

Created 

• Integration 

with Retail 

Edge POS 

to diamonds and exclusive overseas 

product as well as training and product 

information. We also provide policy manuals 

and staff induction material, customised 

to suit individual retailers. We have a large 

Facebook Group that is very active and can 

offer all types of advice. 

What other promotional support do you 

offer members? 

Showcase has an exclusive member offer 

of free local and overseas island holidays 

for their customers, instead of a discount. 

The cost is negligible, with no tricks or 

conditions. This strategy is game changer 

for many members. 



Our manufacturing partners are very 

important; we removed our internal stock 

supply and shifted to local manufacturers 

and suppliers instead. The results speak 

for themselves, with 15 of our top 20 

suppliers increasing sales over the 

previous year’s result. In 2020 we are 

launching our ‘Limited Edition’ competition, 

where the winning jeweller can have his or 

her design manufactured in small volumes. 


Depending on how you want to structure 

your business, it can be as low as 1.5 per 

cent of your purchases, with maximum 

supplier discounts going to our members. 

There is no start-up fee. At Showcase you 

become far more than just a member; 

you have part-ownership of the group. 

Ask yourself, where do the profits go in 

other groups? Our members receive those 

benefits directly. 

How have you improved training and 

education over the past two years? 

Showcase has one of the best online training 

and product knowledge resources available. 

We have an agreement with the international 

diamond trading platform RapNet to utilise 

its courses, and offer members the training 

resources of the ARA. We also have great 

relations with highly experienced US 

training partners. 


BUYING GROUP 

We’ll Help You Thrive 

Here at Showcase Jewellers, we are ALL about our members. 

We’re a member owned organisation, and it’s been that way for over 38 years. 

We have a long established, comprehensive management structure in place with 

some of the most experienced heads in the industry, all working together as a 

support office to help you thrive. 

We are proud to provide the support and tools 

necessary to help you navigate through: 

Retail 

Sales 

Marketing & Digital Marketing 

Policies 

Operations 

Product Knowledge 

Contact us today to find out more about how 

we can help your business thrive in 2020 

E: enquiries@showcasejewellers.com.au | P: (02) 8566 1800 | www.showcasejewellers.com.au

ADVERTISEMENT 


Leading Edge Jewellers 

with Charlie Davey, General Manager – Members 

& Category Management 

Est. 1986 | 5 BOARD MEMBERS 

02 9497 4000 • LEADINGEDGEGROUP.COM.AU 

Strength in 

Numbers 

Total 

Members 

91 

89 

2 

Australia 

NZ 

Total 

Stores 

128 

124 

4 

Australia 

NZ 


Our application process remains quite 

simple and consists of standard trade 

checks and proof of assets. 

We look to partner with retailers who are 

dedicated to building a successful fine 

jewellery business and eager to be part 

of a like-minded community. 

As supporters of family-driven values, 

honest and ethical trading have always 

been fundamental requirements. 


As part of Australia’s largest buying group, 

with more than 720 independent retailers 

across eight industries, our members are 

part of a community of retail specialists. 

Membership benefits include supplier 

discounts with attractive, cost-effective 

agreements, and central billing and 

credit featuring simple online invoicing. 

We also offer opt-in digital and print 

marketing programs focused on delivering 

sales, and access to a market-leading 

e-commerce website platform. 

Non-trade benefits such as saving 

thousands of dollars annually on insurance, 

freight, EFTPOS merchant rates and more 

are major benefits that our members enjoy. 

Members also have access to our jewellery 

retail coaching, inclusive of stock ranging 

and management, merchandising, profitand-loss 

analysis and financial planning, 

management and staff training, as well 

as the all-important store design. 


Our advantage lies in the practical 

application of our extensive retail and 

marketing knowledge. By providing expert 

coaching and retail services, we enable our 

family of members to grow in a challenging 

environment, ensuring stores are designed 

and merchandised for optimum return. 

We offer a digital presence that increases 

both online and in-store sales, along with 

marketing programs that provide tangible 

sales results. Our group’s size allows our 

members to cross-promote into other 

supported merchandise categories as well 

as participate in company-wide promotions 

rather than just their dedicated category, 

such as jewellery. 

What are your major achievements over 

the past two years? 

We have continued to invest heavily in our 

digital technology and platform and are 

proud to offer members the industry’s 

most comprehensive digital and traditional 

marketing support package, including 

individualised web marketing via their 

store’s personalised website. 

Has your traditional marketing changed 

in the past two years? 

Yes. Traditionally our marketing programs 

focused on print campaigns and while 

we still provide traditional catalogues 

opportunities for members, we also 

offer many digital promotions and socialmedia 

assets. 



We now offer our members opt-in 

opportunities each month focusing on a 

themed jewellery collection. In addition, we 

support a significant number of members 

in the design, content management and 

construction of personalised websites for 

their individual stores. 

How have you improved your B2B and 


Our B2B website is the cornerstone of our 

campaign distribution. We are currently 

developing and investing heavily in a 

ground-breaking digital platform which is 

scheduled for release this financial year. 

What other promotional support do you 

offer members? 

In a fast-moving marketplace, our members 

value currency and expertise very highly. 

That’s why it’s important to offer our 

LEADING EDGE 

Top 3 

Advantages 

• Independent 

retailer 

community 

that goes 

beyond 

jewellery – 

720 members 

across eight 

categories 

• Expert 

coaching and 

retail services 

• Comprehensive 

digital and 

traditional 

marketing 

support 

package 

members personalised marketing services, 

including but not limited to, social media 

advertising and collateral for special events. 

We also create bespoke designs for our 

exclusive brands. More importantly, we 

are currently bringing on board experts 

dedicated to marketing research and 

social media. 



Our mandate is all about supporting familyoriented 

businesses and their communities. 

We employ a ‘hands on’ approach with our 

supply partners by tailoring offers specific 

to our members. 

Supplier partners have the opportunity to 

partake in digital marketing campaigns 

which we market to our members. We 

use our conferences to work with industry 

professionals and share new opportunities. 

We also sponsor and promote many 

industry awards and events. 


To be part of one of Australia’s premier retail 

buying groups, it’s as simple as this: an $89 

per month membership fee with no joining 

fees, no exit fees, and no lock-in contracts. 

How have you improved your training and 

education in the past two years? 

The Friedman Group – a leading retail 

consulting and sales training firm – is an 

ongoing part of our dedicated offering to 

support our members, helping their teams 

to strive for sales goals and outstanding 

customer service. 

We also offer educational webinars twice 

a month that focus on business needs and 

information to help our members put plans 

into action. 

Our conferences are also designed with 

training and education in mind, with our 

guest speakers and trainers being the 

best in the field of their expertise – from 

understanding how to drive social media 

and marketing campaigns to business 

growth and analysis. 


Leading Edge 

Group is Australia’s 

largest body of 

independent retail 

stores across 

multiple markets 

Brilliant 

Together 

Leading Edge Group Jewellers is here to help your 

business grow, prosper and conquer. We are experts 

that know the market, the customer and can offer 

insights, strategy suggestions, solutions and support 

to help you and your company thrive. 

There is also the added bonus of our exclusive 

member benefi ts including: 

✓ Centralised credit that increases fl exibility and 

convenience with one account for all payments 

✓ Access to exclusive products, offers and prices 

✓ Non-trade savings on fi nance, insurance, car rentals, 

travel, accommodation, shop fi ttings and more 

✓ Membership to the Australian Retailers Association 

for invaluable information and services 

✓ Management and operational training provided 

by reputable market experts 

✓ Personalised assistance and guidance from 

a team of highly respected marketing and 

industry professionals 

EST. 1985 

To find out more, contact: 

Hannes Coetsee - Category Manager 

P (02) 8732 9583 E coetseeh@leadingedgegroup.com.au 

Level 2, 72 Archer Street, Chatswood NSW 2067 

www.leadingedgegroup.com.au

ADVERTISEMENT 


Independent Jewellers Collective 

with Joshua Zarb, Chief Executive Officer 

Est. 2020 | 4 BOARD MEMBERS 

0448 416 070 • WWW.JEWELLERSCOLLECTIVE.COM 

Founded 

January 2020 

Objective 

40+ Members in first year 


The Independent Jewellers Collective (IJC) 

is currently partnering with Australia’s 

finest proactive jewellers. With no sign-up 

fees or lock-in contracts, we are welcoming 

partners with the highest ethical standards 

and professional integrity Australia wide. 

All applicants are required to satisfy 

a standard credit application, and provide 

store imagery and a high-resolution 

business logo. 

them on creative and strategic marketing 

plans. We aim to help our partners identify 

who their target customer really is, and 

guide them in refining their marketing 

message and product mix to ensure 

they’re in business for decades to come. 

We will refocus our partners on their 

point of difference, and strategically 

elevate their brand. 

What will be the basis of your B2B and 


expertise of our supplier partners. 

Everyone needs sell-through, and between 

our own B2B offering and our hands-on 

approach to member support, we aim to 

provide as much education to both our 

retail and supplier partners to drive sales. 

This is the best support we can offer the 

industry as a whole. 

How will your buying group focus on 

training and education? 


We empower independent retailers to 

engage with their customers in unique and 

innovative ways, partnering with specialists 

in different fields to bring them the most 

up-to-date expertise and assistance. 

We also offer a hands-on approach – all 

IJC partners receive structured annual 

visits from our management team to assist 

them with key areas of modern retailing, as 

well as ongoing training and development 

throughout the year. Retailers can refer 

to our website for a full list of benefits. 


We have a simple business model that 

rewards our partners every time they utilise 

our network of preferred suppliers, to use 

on our exclusive IJC Vault of retail services. 

IJC partners also gain access to our 

bespoke communications dashboard and 

Ezi-Billing portal that links directly with 

MYOB and Xero. We offer tailored marketing 

solutions specific to each partner’s 

demographic and store fit out. 

Our partners have access to extensive 

hands-on staff and management training 

as well as an online training portal not 

offered elsewhere within the industry. Our 

IJC directors all have extensive experience 

in member service organisations. 

What will your B2C marketing 

plans involve? 

Nobody knows their customer better than 

our partners, so we will work together with 

The IJC management team has years of 

experience in developing and administering 

all aspects of digital strategy and marketing 

best practices. We have an added advantage 

in that our chief technology officer is a 

first-class programmer, so we can integrate 

our offering with third-party platforms and 

develop our own infrastructure in-house 

as well. 

We have custom built our Ezi-Billing 

Platform, which has an integrated B2B 

Dashboard for all internal communications 

and resources. It also includes a B2B Order 

Platform for our supplier partners which 

has the ability to suggest open-to-buys by 

category, to plan spending effectively. We 

are very strong in technology at IJC. 

What other kind of promotional support 

will you offer members? 

We want to help our partners attract the 

right customers with simple, consistent, 

modern styling and messaging that truly 

connects with their target customer. 

We will be moving away from the old 

fashioned one-size-fits-all approach of 

a standardised printed posters, banners 

and tickets package, and will be polishing 

the look of stores by introducing modern 

signage and merchandising systems. 

How will you support local jewellery 


IJC will work alongside many local jewellery 

manufacturers and supplier partners and 

will not purchase and hold any items of 

stock. Instead, we will exclusively rely on the 

IJC 

Top 3 

Advantages 

• One-onone 

advice, 

education 

and support, 

including 

business 

assessments 

• Custom-built 

integrated 

billing facility 

and support 

platform 

• Passionate 

management 

team with 

extensive 

industry 

experience 

Training and education is at the core of IJC. 

Our model ensures that all partners are 

creating reserves to use specifically 

on training or services to better their 

business overall. 

All IJC partners will receive a 

comprehensive Business Performance 

Checklist that will offer them scores 

and feedback on every key performance 

indicator. As part of their membership, they 

will also receive a subscription to a complete 

sales, management and personal wellbeing 

package from one of our IJC Vault partners. 

We will host several training events 

throughout the year, including state-based 

training, to allow key staff and managers to 

attend sessions in a cost-effective manner. 

Our training plan will also include 

international education and networking 

trips. We believe our smaller group size, 

strong training and development focus, 

and one-on-one assistance are some of 

the biggest drawcards for IJC. 


Our membership fee is only $79 per month. 

This fee contributes to our extensive 

marketing and operational support. 

We give back to our partners by providing 

them rebates to utilise on our extensive 

menu of business services, typically 

providing them several thousands of dollars 

annually to directly assist them to grow 

sales or reduce costs. 


The start of something brilliant. 

We are the independent jewellery retail specialists. 

A collective of Australia’s finest jewellery retailers 

and supply partners, and we do things differently. 

We support your business with innovation, technology, 

strategic marketing and more. Empowering retailers 

to engage in the most unique and innovative ways, 

partnering with our team of industry specialists to bring 

them the expertise and assistance where it counts. 

Our vision is to create an unparalleled level of one 

on one support, a true partnership. Ensuring our 

partners stay relevant to upcoming 

generations of jewellery buyer. 

We do this by re-educating, 

rejuvenating, and elevating our 

jewellers and leading supply 

partners on a new journey of 

modern retailing. 

Your team of experts are 

passionate, driven and at 

your service. 

Let’s grow together. 

For more information on 

becoming an IJC partner, 

please contact: 

Josh Zarb - CEO 

0448 416 070 

josh@jewellerscollective.com 

jewellerscollective.com

BUSINESS 

Retail Strategy 

HOW TO COMPETE WITH YOUR 

BIGGEST COMPETITORS 

Don’t be afraid of, or dismiss, your competitors, write RICH KIZER and GEORGANNE BENDER. 

Instead, ask yourself what you can learn from your retail rivals. 

As a guide, more than 10 per cent of 

your business changes in a variety of 

ways every year. This is an important 

statistic because in today’s retail 

environment, if you don’t reinvent your 

store by at least 10 per cent each year, 

in just three years’ time you could be 

30 per cent behind your competitors. 

Change is a major stop on the road to 

survival. Remember Blockbuster Video? 

Everyone went to Blockbuster until Netflix 

showed up and offered videos for one low 

monthly fee – with no late fees – without 

requiring its customers to leave the house. 

Netflix flourished and Blockbuster closed 

its doors because it didn’t keep up with 

the times. Borders Books stumbled and 

lost when Amazon’s low prices and Kindle 

device came on the scene. 

That’s the 10 per cent change factor at 

work. If your store is to stay relevant you 

have to keep up with your competition, your 

customers, and the times. You need to 

know how your store stacks up when 

compared to your competition – because 

your customers are constantly comparing 

you to your competitors. 

You probably know the old joke that’s 

relevant to retail competition: two hikers are 

out enjoying the day, when suddenly a large 

bear jumps from behind a bush and starts 

to chase them. 

They’re both running for their lives when 

suddenly one man sits down to put on his 

running shoes. 

His friend says, “Are you crazy? You can’t 

outrun that bear!” And the other hiker says, 

”I don’t have to outrun the bear; I just have 

to outrun you!” 

Here’s the thing: complacency kills. 

How often do you mystery shop your 

competition – in person, online and on 

social mediums? 

Monthly? Yearly? Never? 

You may not be shopping your competitors 

but you can bet that your hungry 

competition is shopping you. 

You can’t think your store is different and 

that it’s on target to withstand the test 

of time. Too many retailers think their 

business is immune to change. It’s not. No 

store is invincible. 

Too many 

retailers 

think their 

business 

is immune 

to change. 

It’s not. 

No store is 

invincible 

Keep your enemies close 

Shopping your competition is an exercise 

that needs to happen at least once a 

quarter, more often during holidays and 

other peak retail seasons. 

Here are a few tips to assist in investigating 

your competitors: 

• Make a list of everything you need to 

know about each store: When we mystery 

shop we carefully examine the operational 

categories in the store, and then rate each 

one on a scale of one to 10. 

It is subjective, an opinion, but it’s a good 

one. Yours will be too. 

• Determine where you stand in your 

marketplace: Send someone you trust to 

a public place in your neighbourhood to 

ask people if they can recommend a good 

jewellery store. 

If yours is mentioned first, you have built 

‘Top of the Mind Awareness’ – good job! 

If you are not mentioned first, or worse, 

not at all, you have some work to do. You 

can also ask a friend to mystery shop your 

store. Your perception of how you are doing 


Retail Strategy 

could be tremendously different from the 

customers’ perception. 

We undertook this exercise with a retailer 

who thought his store was the ‘best’, so 

we took him to visit a new competitor’s 

store, and then came back to do the same 

exercise in his store. It was an eye opener; 

he realised how much work he had to do to 

bring his store up to speed. 

You don’t have to do it all by yourself. If you 

are uncomfortable or may be recognised, 

send a friend or family member. You could 

even ask one of your loyal customers to visit 

the competitor for an appraisal. 

However, some good advice is for you to 

occasionally visit the store just to say 

hello, and casually look around while 

you are there. 

Another strategy is what we call the ‘How 

Did It Feel‘ exercise. Assign your staff to visit 

your various competitors posing as typical 

customers. Have them go through all of the 

steps outlined in this article. 

When the staff member returns, ask them 

to document their visits, breaking down 

everything they experienced in each area of 

the store. 

After each comment ask, “How did it feel?” 

You’ll learn what those competitors did well 

and where they fell down. Compare those 

findings with your own store. 

Note your first impression: is the 

competitor’s store interesting from the 

minute you approach it? Are the displays 

and store windows compelling? Shoppers 

view your window displays in eight seconds 

or less, so they can’t be too elaborate. 

The average shopper makes a value 

judgment about a store – positive or negative 

– in 10 seconds or less. Ask yourself, what 

vibe does your store present to potential 

customers? What happens just beyond the 

decompression zone – that is, the first 2–4 

metres inside the front door? 

Rate the in-store experience. Is it a fun place 

to shop or merely a place to ‘buy stuff’? 

• Analyse the customer flow: Does 

the store layout create and control how 

customer traffic flows through the floor? 

A retail study found that 50 per cent of 

shoppers never see the entire sales floor. 

Do customers linger in the store or get in 

and out? 

Stop and watch shoppers; try to see the 

merchandising and customer service 

through their eyes. 

Observe how shoppers enter the store, 

which way they go and why, plus what they 

look at, and how long they linger in specific 

areas, along with what they buy and return. 

• Rate the overall appearance of the sales 

floor: Does it motivate shoppers to buy? 

What do your competitors do to highlight 

important product? Is the merchandise 

fresh or dated? Is the sales floor neat and 

clean? Are displays well maintained and 

dust free? Are they unique? 

Where are the important basics and hot 

sellers located? Are displays merchandised 

as a destination product – think milk and 

eggs in a grocery store – or as impulse 

purchases? Are the displays clearly 

signed and is the merchandise clearly and 

competitively priced? 

How does your competitor differentiate 

between full price and markdown 

merchandise? 

Note where it is and how’s reduced. How 

is clearance product merchandised – is it 

in its regular department or in a special 

clearance area? 

Does the store have signage and is it 

effective? Does it reinforce the overall 

feeling of the store’s brand? 

Are signs well placed and legible and 

is there a standard format or are they 

handwritten and taped to fixtures? 

You should also assess the perception of 

the store’s pricing compared to yours. Is the 

retailer trying to convey an upscale, quality 

service combined with a unique experience, 

or as a discount merchant? 

Are the staff attentive to shoppers’ needs? 

Are there trained staff members available to 

help with difficult customer questions? 

Put the store staff through their paces to 

find out if they possess specialised skills 

and strong product knowledge. 

Online exploration 

You’re not finished yet. It’s critical to visit 

your competition online, too. Check out 

Review 

your goals 

1 Make a list 

of everything 

you need to 

know about 

each rival store 

2 Determine 

where you 

stand in your 

marketplace 

3 Analyse the 

customer flow 

of competitor 

stores 

4 Rate 

the overall 

appearance 

of your 

competition’s 

sales floor 

5 Explore their 

online presence 

and customer 

reviews 

each competitor’s Yelp business page and 

Google reviews on a weekly basis. Review 

yours, too. 

Don’t have a Yelp or Google My Business 

page? You may have one even if you didn’t 

set it up because if a customer decides to 

review your store, that becomes your page. 

Claim it, and see what is being said. 

When setting up the page, complete all the 

information fields, add high-quality photos, 

and respond to comments – good and bad. 

Monitor it weekly – or daily, if you are getting 

lots of reviews. And don’t worry about cost; 

Yelp and Google My Business are free. 

Monitor the ‘Zero Moment of Truth’ – a 

term that describes the moment when a 

consumer researches a product or store 

online prior to purchase, or prior to visiting 

the location in person. 

You should consider establishing an 

account with Mention.com and TalkWalker. 

com to learn what’s being said about your 

store online. 

Both sites will email you a link each time 

you are mentioned, plus a link to take you 

to the comment. We have alerts set up for 

ourselves, our company, and everything 

else we want to monitor. 

Meanwhile, Facebook Pages to Watch 

– found on your Facebook Page Insights – 

allows you to do an anonymous, automatic 

daily comparison with your competition’s 

Facebook pages. Your competitor will 

receive notice that someone is ‘watching’ 

their page, but they won’t know that it’s you. 

Utilising these techniques will give you 

an accurate picture of where you stand in 

relation to your competition. It will allow 

you to see your store through your 

customers’ eyes and identify your strengths 

as well as weaknesses. 

With that knowledge, you can develop 

new strategies to improve your existing 

customers’ experience at your store, as 

well as encourage new customers to shop 

with you instead of your competitors. 

RICH KIZER and GEORGANNE BENDER 

are retail strategists, authors and 

consultants. kizerandbender.com 


BUSINESS 

Selling 

Are you making the most of your 

customer service superstars? 

For some employees, providing outstanding customer service comes naturally – 

and their talents can be used to enhance your whole team, writes JEANNIE WALTERS. 

Ask any group of customers what 

they liked about a recent customer 

experience, and they typically mention 

the same thing – although, they aren’t 

‘things’: it’s always about the people. 

Senior executives across different servicebased 

industries have noted that, when 

leaving feedback, customer comments 

often included a specific name. 

Instead of saying, “The flight attendant 

was great,” they would say, “Kelly is really 

extraordinary!” 

These extraordinary people in your 

organisation should be not only rewarded 

for their behaviour, but also observed and 

invited to participate in creating the best 

practices for your business. 

The tricky thing about humans is that we 

have trouble observing ourselves. So it’s 

up to business managers to identify the 

customer service ‘superstars’ and discern 

how they create better customer service. 

If you aren’t paying attention to you staff 

‘superstars’ then others won’t feel the 

need to follow their exemplary lead. 

Here are some of the ways customer 

service superstars stand out, gathered 

from years of observing different 

businesses and organisations. 

Listening and responding beyond the data 

One customer service representative 

working for a national business call centre 

noticed customers would contact her 

requiring the same instructions again 

and again. 

Many of their questions weren’t available 

as choices in the business’ customer 

service system. The call centre employee 

recorded the questions in her notebook, 

created a set of resolution instructions, 

and presented her work to the call centre 

manager. 

However, the manager refused to add 

the questions and answers to the system 

because the numbers on file didn’t reflect 

a large caller demand for that information. 

Identifying and rewarding your best customer service employees is critical. 

Not to be discouraged, the employee 

simply provided her instructions to her 

fellow customer service representatives 

and, as a result, transnational customer 

satisfaction rates increased. 

In this case, the call centre manager’s 

decision simply reflected the data-driven 

culture of the company. 

However, the superstar saw a truly 

customer-centric solution and made it 

happen in a low-tech way. 

This staff member helped the rest of her 

team learn how to really listen for the root 

cause of reasons for inbound customer 

requests. 

Empathetic and engaging behaviour 

At a world-class art museum, some of the 

visitors were reporting an unfriendly and 

uptight environment. 

Staff working in customer-facing roles 

were trained in ‘soft’ skills – yet still the 

comments kept coming. 

Obervation of individual gallery experiences 

revealed the unexpected cause; security 

guards stationed to protect each individual 

gallery in the museum, were often abrupt 

and unfriendly to visitors. 

They were doing the job for which they had 

been employed, however sometimes they 

were perceived as rude. For an example, 

It is easy not to 

pay attention to 

the individual 

staff member 

who excels at 

his or her job; 

often, they do 

not seek glory 

or recognition 

an adult exclaiming, “Don’t touch that!” is 

startling to a young child. 

One guard, however, had a unique 

approach, especially with children. He 

crouched down to speak to them at eye 

level and used phrases of engagement 

such as, “Do you like that sculpture? I do, 

too! It’s one of my favourites. That’s why we 

have to be so careful.” 

His warm tone and engaged behaviour 

should have become the standard across 

the museum’s security team, but that 

could only happen if leadership was 

paying attention. 

Getting out of their silo 

A small university discovered its 

superstars when its academic advisers 

began asking students about their 

experiences outside study. 

Students trusted the advisers for academic 

counsel, but as the relationships grew 

they shared more than just feelings 

about their classes. 

Superstars were all over the campus: 

dining hall attendants, health centre 

nurses and registrar clerks were all 

mentioned in glowing terms by the 

students. As more student responses 

were analysed, it was found that each 

of these groups had at least one staff 

member who could help the rest of their 

team better serve students. 

It is easy not to pay attention to the 

individual staff member who excels at his 

or her job; often, they do not seek glory or 

recognition – they simply do their job in the 

only way they know how. 

By actively identifying your superstars, your 

customers’ experience can improve thanks 

to their intuitive skills. 

So… do you have superstars and do you 

recognise them? 

Jeannie Walters is founder and CEO of 

Experience Investigators By 360Connext. 

experienceinvestigators.com 


BUSINESS 

Management 

Why taking risks is critically important 

When it comes to taking your business to the next level, there are several key areas 

where a calculated risk makes all the difference, writes DAVID BROWN. 

Taking a risk is subjective; what one 

person considers risky another might not 

give a second thought. 

As we age, we certainly become more risk 

averse, sinking back towards the ‘tried and 

true’ rather than the ‘new and exciting’. 

This can be part of our in-built wiring – we 

get better at making risk judgments as 

we age, since we now have a history from 

which to refer. 

You only have to ask yourself whether 

you’d repeat some of the things you did 

when you were 20! 

From a financial perspective, some of 

this decision-making process is due to 

having more at stake – financially, we are 

generally wealthier in our fifties than we 

were in our twenties, and have more to 

lose if things go wrong. 

This risk aversion sometimes stems from 

having previously been financially harmed. 

We instinctively shy away from previous 

bad experiences. 

With too many bad memories returning, 

we start to believe that the same thing 

can happen again. Yet in many cases, 

these previous bad experiences were 

circumstantial and not directly related to 

the actions that we took. 

I see this time and time again with 

jewellery storeowners who stick to the 

same path of action over and over again 

even though the market has moved on. 

As it turns out, avoiding change can be the 

greatest risk of all. 

Failing to take a chance can be more risky 

than taking a few calculated gambles – 

that is, ensuring the risk factor is managed 

as effectively as possible. 

So, in what areas of a business should you 

take risk? 

Inventory – Product is one area that should 

be managed by the numbers and I’m a firm 

believer in continuing to reorder and resell, 

until it sells no more. 

However a certain percentage of your 

The benefits of taking a risk frequently outweigh the drawbacks. 

buying needs to be focused on testing new 

products that may become winners. 

You are losing out on the potential for 

greater revenue if you continue to solely 

stock the items you’ve always stocked. 

When it comes to widening your product 

offering, take a strategic approach and 

look for the gaps that could be easily 

filled with an item that will delight your 

loyal customers, or bring new customers 

into your store. 

Marketing – The digital world has made it 

easier than ever to measure the impact of 

your marketing strategy. 

Split testing – also known as A/B testing 

– is the automated process of showing 

different marketing material to two 

different audiences and seeing which one 

gets the best response. 

For example, you could see which of your 

two Instagram ads – one with a flat-lay 

product image, or one with a product 

on a model – gets the most customer 

click-throughs. 

It’s a great way to quickly refine and evolve 

your strategy to its optimal level. 

By constantly reshaping and trying new 

marketing headlines and offers, you can 

easily determine which works best with a 

minimum of risk. 

The important 

question when 

considering 

a risk is to 

determine what 

the worstcase 

scenario 

will be... In 

most cases, 

this downside 

is actually 

minimal 

Price – Do you really know how much that 

item can sell for? Could your mark-up be 

higher than you currently charge? 

Testing the market for price can offer 

considerable returns for very little risk. 

All of these areas have one thing in 

common – they can be calculated risks 

with a limited downside that can be 

easily reversed. 

None have the power, on their own, to 

cause permanent damage to your 

business; all of them offer an upside that 

faroutweighs their downside. 

Calculated risk taking is part of 

entrepreneurship – after all, being a 

business owner is a risk in itself. 

The important question when considering 

a risk is to determine what the worst-case 

scenario will be if things don’t go according 

to plan. In most cases, this downside is 

actually minimal. 

I recommend having a ‘risk budget’ as 

part of your annual plan. 

This isn’t an expense account line item, 

but rather a portion of your funds, in 

several different areas, that you are 

prepared to risk in order to move your 

business forward. 

In every case, you need to decide if the 

upside offers a multiplier several times 

higher than the downside, and whether the 

downside can be capped at a certain point 

to minimise that risk. 

If you explore these options you will 

find,that there are many opportunities in 

your business to take controlled risks that 

can offer significant upsides – and some of 

these risks could potentially catapult the 

business to another level. 

When you assess these risks on that basis, 

you will find the risk really isn’t that big a 

risk after all. 

David Brown is co-founder and business 

mentor of Retail Edge Consultants.. 

retailedgeconsultants.com 


BUSINESS 

Marketing & PR 

Why PR and marketing go hand-in-hand 

In many businesses, public relations and marketing often operate as separate departments or teams. That structure can 

lead to a lack of co-ordination and missed opportunities, writes WILLIAM J COMCOWICH. 

PR and marketing teams perform better 

when they work together. Co-ordination 

helps each accomplish what they cannot 

do separately, and improves the bottom 

line for the entire organisation. 

The most successful businesses have 

cohesive marketing and PR strategies 

working side-by-side to promote the 

business. 

Jessica Tiller, co-founder of Weiss PR, says, 

“Think of marketing and PR like peanut 

butter and jelly or milk and cookies — 

they just go together.” 

Tiller explains that integrating the two 

brings credibility, consistency and greater 

visibility to a business’ messaging – that is, 

the information it communicates to potential 

customers about its products and services. 

Disappearing differences 

Traditionally, PR focused on media relations 

and building relationships with key groups 

such as investors and employees, as well 

as journalists. 

Meanwhile, the marketing department 

oversaw advertising, promotional materials 

and gathering customer information through 

surveys and focus groups. 

In other words, while PR representatives 

safeguarded the brand’s reputation, 

marketing officers concentrated on 

boosting sales. 

Today, PR and marketing objectives collide, 

overlap and intertwine. For example, both 

PR and marketing teams may control a 

business’ social media channels or manage 

the company’s blog blog. 

Communications professionals agree that 

PR and marketing are merging, with 90 

per cent of PR agency professionals and 

82 per cent of in-house PR representatives 

predict PR will become more integrated with 

marketing over the next five years, according 

to the 2018 Global Communications Report 

from the University of Southern California. 

As a result of increasing integration, the 

percentage of in-house communications 

teams reporting to the marketing 

Co-ordinate your PR and marketing strategies to amplify results. 

department has increased significantly in 

recent years. 

Strategies for effective co-operation 

Here are some ways PR and marketing 

staff can work better together: 

• Cooperate early and often – PR and 

marketing teams or staff members can 

develop effective campaigns by engaging 

with each other frequently and starting the 

collaboration early in the process. Attending 

meetings of the other department helps 

ensure that different sections know about 

the projects, goals and campaigns of other 

groups. Have at least one member of each 

group attend meetings of the other team. 

• Share goals – determine common 

objectives for PR and marketing as well 

as other functions like social media. 

Without results-focused objectives that 

match business goals, PR representatives 

can produce ineffective content without a 

strategic purpose. Sharing goals can help 

PR focus on activities that improve sales. 

• Focus on dual-purpose activities – 

analyse how marketing assets can help gain 

media coverage. At the same time, research 

how PR can assist in meeting marketing 

goals. For example, social media is not only 

important in discovering how customers and 

potential customers perceive the brand – it 

is also useful in discovering opportunities 

for sales. 

It’s important 

that PR officers 

work with the 

marketing team 

before, during 

and after an 

announcement 

or campaign 

launch 

• Develop integrated campaigns – PR can 

support lead generation and paid campaigns. 

For example, PR officers can use data from 

an industry or consumer survey to secure 

media coverage, and later repurpose the data 

for content marketing such as blog posts, or 

email campaigns . 

• Comprehensive monitoring and 

measurement – marketing officers typically 

gather and analyse data related to sales and 

leads, but they may not always include earned 

media in their analysis. Yet, leads and sales 

might abruptly increase during a broad PR 

campaign or even after a single high-profile 

media mention. Aligning a co-ordinated 

marketing campaign with PR successes can 

increase sales even more. 

Meanwhile, it’s important that PR officers 

work with the marketing team before, during 

and after an announcement or campaign 

launch as both can benefit from monitoring 

reach, engagement and impact. 

Data from news and social media offer a 

potential goldmine of information about 

a brand’s customers, potential customers, 

product development possibilities 

and competitors. It also can provide 

insights about reactions to marketing 

and advertising campaigns. 

• Share information – because customers 

often research products online before 

purchases, PR content creators have become 

‘pre-salesmen’. Marketing data can inform 

PR officers about the types of content and 

delivery channels that best drive customers 

to purchase. 

The bottom line is that PR and marketing 

professionals can improve performance 

of both of their departments by working 

together closely. 

With greater co-operation between the two, 

a business is more likely to meet financial 

goals as well as improve its reputation within 

the category. 

William J Comcowich is founder and 

acting CEO of Glean.info by CyberAlert. 

glean.info 


BUSINESS 

Logged On 

Why some people fail in social media marketing 

There are many reasons why business owners struggle to manage – and get results – 

from their social media marketing, writes MANDY EDWARDS. 

Social media – and ‘digital marketers’ – 

are a dime a dozen. They’re everywhere 

and many people think they can aptly 

manage a business’ social media 

accounts with no prior marketing 

experience whatsoever. 

About 75 per cent of the social media 

marketers I met when I started my 

business nine years ago are no longer 

practising social media or digital 

marketing. Some were given other 

opportunities, and many just couldn’t 

cut it. 

I hate to see businesses fail and 

people give up. I know how much time, 

energy, love and money goes into 

running a business. 

However, there are some who just are 

not cut out to be business owners. 

Harsh, but true. On that note, let’s return 

to social media marketing. 

This is an area of marketing that a great 

deal of your time; you have to dedicate 

time to staying up-to-date with the 

latest changes – and there are tonnes 

each and every year. 

Additionally, you have to constantly review 

which platforms people are using, and 

ways to integrate marketing activities into 

your overall business plan. 

Some people excel at these things, and 

many are just trying to keep their head 

above water. 

So, why is that? 

Here are four reasons business owners 

do not succeed at being social media 

marketers – hopefully, we can use them 

to show us how to succeed. 

• They do not take the time to educate 

themselves and fall behind – Social 

media is constantly changing and if you 

are not dedicated to understanding the 

latest trends, terms of service changes 

and new features on each app, you can 

bet your competitors are – and they will 

take advantage of that. 

If your social media marketing is ineffective, you may be the problem. 

If you follow any ‘big name’ businesses on 

social media, you will see how they keep 

up with everything. 

To simplify the process, I consult 

resources such as The Grow Blog, Sprout 

Social Insights, and Social Media Today 

to stay up to date. 

• They have no marketing or sales 

experience – I know I’ll take some heat 

with that statement, but not everyone is 

a born marketer. 

Of course there are successful people 

in this industry with no marketing 

experience, but I’m referring to people 

who have no idea what to do in a sales 

call, and who don’t know that social 

media marketing is more than just 

posting to social accounts. 

I know people who have decided to start 

handling social media for their business 

because they love to post on their 

personal Facebook or Instagram account. 

Their graphics and captions are full of 

misspellings and grammatical errors. 

Next thing you know, they hit the ground 

running with no idea what they are doing, 

If you are not 

dedicated to 

understanding 

the latest trends, 

terms of service 

changes and 

new features on 

each app, you 

can bet your 

competitors are 

or any sense of what marketing really 

is. The goal of social media marketing, 

like all forms of marketing, is increasing 

sales, so having experience in this area 

is valuable. 

• They can’t establish who their target 

market is – This is something a lot of 

business owners struggle with. 

Do you want to serve everyone, or one 

particular niche? 

Many just float along, with no structure 

to their social media marketing, until 

they get fed up with the lack of success. 

That is why you need to have a social 

media strategy and define your ‘why’ 

and ‘how’. 

Doing just those two simple things will 

set you on the track to success. 

• Poor management skills – Many 

business owners turn to marketing 

companies or consultants to manage 

their social media strategy, rather than 

doing it themselves. 

Unfortunately, I have seen first-hand 

how this can still lead to poor results. 

Communication skills are very important 

in this field, so it is important to choose 

a social media marketing expert who 

stays in constant contact with you. 

They should be asking you what they 

could be doing better, and seeking 

continual feedback in order to 

strengthen the relationship and provide 

you with the best service. 

In conclusion, there are many reasons 

and circumstances that keep someone 

from being an effective social media 

marketer – and those listed above can 

also be applied to more than just the 

social media marketing industry. 

Mandy Edwards is founder of ME 

Marketing Services, a social media 

and management consultancy. 

memarketingservices.com 


My Bench 

Zoë Pook 

Zoë Pook Jewellery, Sydney NSW 

Age 46 • Years in Trade 15 • Training Higher National Certificate in Silversmithing & Jewellery from university in London, plus learning the tricks of the trade 

from two London jewellers • First job Ben Day Jewellery • Other Qualifications Expert at talking to myself when I work and thus confusing all my staff 

SIGNATURE PIECE 

KALI RING 

SILENT AUCTION DONATION, SYDNEY PEACE PRIZE 2019 

Named after the Hindu goddess Kali, the destroyer of evil forces and liberator 

of souls, this ring is handcrafted in 18-carat Fairtrade white gold with Sri Lankan 

sapphire and Australian diamond. 

4FAVOURITE GEMSTONE Spinel, because it 

is hard, beautiful, comes in unusual colours, is 

underrated, not crazy expensive, and – for those 

gem nerds – singly refractive. My absolute favourite 

is grey spinel, I have way too many! 

4FAVOURITE METAL To work with, it’s yellow gold 

– so easy. To look at, rose gold – but what a pain in 

the a*se to work with! 

4FAVOURITE TOOL Safety back needle file. I love 

the sharp edges, and it has an ergonomic feel. 

Failing that, a ‘whacker’ – a bent, old, drill bit that 

spreads the metal to cover porosity, create a nice 

texture and smooth out bumps. 

4BEST NEW TOOL DISCOVERY Mini clamps by 

Tyler Brothers, Habras discs – I was skeptical at 

first but one of my jewellers put me onto them – 

Tappa Tools mini graphite ingots, or a laser welder. 

4BEST PART OF THE JOB Tea break, and sitting at 

the bench chatting with everyone, weighing in on 

problems and finding solutions! I also quite like the 

peace and quiet of early evening in the studio, with 

the music on, working on a piece by myself. 

4WORST PART OF THE JOB Polishing, and 

managing clients’ expectations. 

4BEST TIP FROM A JEWELLER When stuck for 

design inspiration, make something you yourself 

would wear. Oh, and don’t under-quote! 

4BEST TIP TO A JEWELLER Set boundaries with 

clients and learn when and how to say no. 

4BIGGEST HEALTH CONCERN ON THE BENCH 

Dust and polishing compounds in your lungs. We 

have recently got some new fancy masks, which I 

now just need to remember to put on! 

4LOVE JEWELLERY BECAUSE It’s one of the oldest 

ways for us humans to adorn ourselves, to show 

our individuality or tribe, to be creative. It’s worn by 

everyone, old or young, from any culture. 


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®

OPINION 

Soapbox 

For the love of natural diamonds 

Your customers may already financially benefit from diamond mining before they even make a 

purchase, writes LOUISE McMANUS, who extols the many virtues of natural stones. 

I’m often asked a pertinent question 

in the industry: “Why don’t you stock 

synthetic diamonds?” I usually reply 

that true love, or at least the kind that’s 

synonymous with engagement rings, 

deserves the true gemstone, not a 

copy – Mother Nature’s wonderful gift 

of beauty, which does not age, nor 

wither and die. 

A diamond is forever. It is linked to 

wonderful stories of legendary love 

affairs, kingdoms, and world trade, 

along with both true and fictional 

tales of great heists. 

Moguls, kings, queens, and movie stars 

have worn their diamonds as symbols of 

power, wealth and love. 

Romance is what we sell, along with 

beautiful diamonds. 

Diamonds have been used to write graffiti 

in panes of glass in castles and grand 

historical houses – declarations of love 

and poems of great devotion. 

Queen Elizabeth I, whilst imprisoned in 

the lodge at Woodstock, is alleged to have 

scratched into a pane of glass using a 

diamond: ‘Much suspected by me, nothing 

proved can be, quoth Elizabeth prisoner.’ 

Young customers entering a jewellery 

store today, in many cases, have not 

had the pleasure to be served by a 

knowledgeable salesperson. 

This can be quite a daunting prospect, 

but what we need to sell is what is 

advantageous about the purchase of a 

natural diamond. 

Diamond, the king of all gems, gives us 

a multi-faceted glimpse into thriving 

economies as they speak the language of 

prosperity and opulence. Diamonds were 

traded along the Silk Road with all the 

luxury goods sought and lusted for at 

that time. 

The East India Company took diamonds 

and made the diamond trade a global 

one. This global trade in diamonds brings 

great wealth to poor countries. 

Botswana, which was formerly one of 

the poorest countries in Africa, had the 

fortune to discover diamonds in the early 

1970s. This has given Botswana one of the 

fastest growing economies in the world. 

Diamonds have brought a relatively high 

standard of living to its people – one of 

the highest in Africa. Botswana’s diamond 

production is second to only Russia’s. 

Here in Australia, customers of all ages 

have superannuation and stock portfolios, 

many of which invest in mining companies 

around the world. 

Among them are Rio Tinto, one of the 

world’s largest mining companies and 

the owner of Australia’s own Argyle 

Mine, and Alrosa, a Russian mining 

conglomerate that leads the world in 

diamond production by volume. 

The money from these mines not only 

brings wealth to Australia as a collective 

nation, but also the individuals who have 

diverse investments. 

When your customers ask you, “Why 

should I buy a natural diamond?” you 

can confirm with their superannuation 

provider that they may already be 

shareholders in diamond mines. 

Their purchase indirectly financially 

rewards them, and many others, around 

the world. 

There will 

be no great 

blockbuster 

movies made, 

nor bestselling 

books written 

about the 

great jewellery 

heist at the 

synthetic 

diamond 

factory 

Luxury goods and the companies that 

produce them have always made the 

effort to distance themselves from copies, 

fakes, frauds, scams and other assorted 

con-artistry, going so far as to launch 

large-scale legal proceedings to protect 

their names and trademarks. 

The prestigious luxury jewellery 

companies have made it crystal clear: 

synthetic diamonds are copies, fit only 

for the purposes of ‘trendy’ jewellery. 

The synthetic diamonds have a limitless 

production and thus lack the economic 

value that comes with scarcity. 

This factor is the difference between 

paper money and gold. 

Diamonds truly are the gold standard in 

jewellery and their synthetic counterparts 

are propagated entirely by the volatile 

fashion market, making them a poor 

long-term investment. 

Families will not be fighting over who gets 

mum’s synthetic diamonds at the reading 

of the will. 

There will be no great blockbuster movies 

made, nor bestselling books written about 

the great jewellery heist at the synthetic 

diamond factory. 

We sell the real thing. Diamonds are 

forever and I can assure you, Marilyn 

Monroe never sang, “Synthetic diamonds 

are a girl’s best friend.” 

Name: : Louise McManus FGAA DipDT 

Company: Akshmi Diamonds 

Position: Manager 

Location: Adelaide, South Australia 

Years in Industry: 35 


When 2 shows 

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Jeweller - March 2020

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