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WINE DINE AND TRAVEL SUMMER 2020 -- SOUTH AFRICA

What to do with a gap between two travel adventures - the end of our thrilling Kenyan safari and the start of an exotic cruise from Cape Town? What else but explore another of the world’s iconic wine regions.
Since we met three decades ago, whenever possible, my husband and I seek out wine country pleasures - bucolic views, charming inns, leisurely tastings and casual fine dining. If trips bring us near vineyards - Virginia to Oregon, France to Australia, we visit for an afternoon or several days. 
This time our wine country destination was South Africa, one of the oldest wine-making regions outside of Europe, where Dutch and French settlers began tending vines in the mid-1600s. 
For a week, including Valentine’s Day when we celebrated our 31st anniversary, we explored the stunningly beautiful Winelands of the western cape, less than an hour drive from Cape Town.

What to do with a gap between two travel adventures - the end of our thrilling Kenyan safari and the start of an exotic cruise from Cape Town? What else but explore another of the world’s iconic wine regions.
Since we met three decades ago, whenever possible, my husband and I seek out wine country pleasures - bucolic views, charming inns, leisurely tastings and casual fine dining. If trips bring us near vineyards - Virginia to Oregon, France to Australia, we visit for an afternoon or several days. 
This time our wine country destination was South Africa, one of the oldest wine-making regions outside of Europe, where Dutch and French settlers began tending vines in the mid-1600s. 
For a week, including Valentine’s Day when we celebrated our 31st anniversary, we explored the stunningly beautiful Winelands of the western cape, less than an hour drive from Cape Town.

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the health inspector was overdue.

Ca phe trung -- Vietnam is the second biggest

coffee growing country in the world (behind

Brazil). And it’s got a coffee culture to match. Coffee

shops line downtown streets. Each one decorated

with tiny plastic red tables -- less than two

feet high -- surrounded by coffee drinkers.

Along with the usual lattes and cappuccinos,

there are uniquely Vietnamese coffee drinks. We

discovered “ca phe sua” – espresso and condensed

milk – in HCMC. In Da Lat we encountered “ca phe

muoi” -- coffee mixed with a salty cream.

But the topper was “ca phe trung” in Hanoi.

Otherwise known as “egg coffee,” it’s a combination

of sweetened espresso with whipped egg

yoke on top. It’s almost a desert. Think coffee

meringue pie or coffee tiramisu or maybe coffee

eggnog.

We tried our first ca phe trung at Café Giang

(the owner’s father invented the drink), where it’s

been served since 1946. We were there on a cool,

grey afternoon and both floors were packed. Each

ca phe trung cup sat in a small ceramic bowl.

We’re not sure why. Maybe to catch any overflowing

meringue.

Lobster -- On the eve of New Year’s Eve, we

squeezed through the crowds at Hoi An’s outdoor

night market, which is on an island across a narrow

neck of the Thu Bon River from the Old Town.

The market sells T-shirts and other tourist

knick-knacks but most everybody is there for the

food. There are dozens of stalls cooking an encyclopedia

of foods. Squid, frogs, octopi, chickens,

weird things we couldn’t identify. We headed to

the far side of the island where the lobster grillers

were at work.

We picked a stand at random (the cook looked

like a nice lady) and put in an order. The nice lady

grabbed a group of small lobsters out of a tank,

chopped off some antennae and threw them on

her grill. In 10 minutes juice dripping, succulent

grilled lobsters were delivered to our tiny table in

paper cartons.

Just about the best street food we’d ever eaten.

Pizza -- We say “just about,” because we discovered

the best street food ever in Da Lat. It’s called

“banh trang nuong.” Better known to tourists as

150

WINE DINE & TRAVEL MAGAZINE 2020

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