WINE DINE AND TRAVEL SUMMER 2020 -- SOUTH AFRICA
What to do with a gap between two travel adventures - the end of our thrilling Kenyan safari and the start of an exotic cruise from Cape Town? What else but explore another of the world’s iconic wine regions. Since we met three decades ago, whenever possible, my husband and I seek out wine country pleasures - bucolic views, charming inns, leisurely tastings and casual fine dining. If trips bring us near vineyards - Virginia to Oregon, France to Australia, we visit for an afternoon or several days. This time our wine country destination was South Africa, one of the oldest wine-making regions outside of Europe, where Dutch and French settlers began tending vines in the mid-1600s. For a week, including Valentine’s Day when we celebrated our 31st anniversary, we explored the stunningly beautiful Winelands of the western cape, less than an hour drive from Cape Town.
What to do with a gap between two travel adventures - the end of our thrilling Kenyan safari and the start of an exotic cruise from Cape Town? What else but explore another of the world’s iconic wine regions. Since we met three decades ago, whenever possible, my husband and I seek out wine country pleasures - bucolic views, charming inns, leisurely tastings and casual fine dining. If trips bring us near vineyards - Virginia to Oregon, France to Australia, we visit for an afternoon or several days. This time our wine country destination was South Africa, one of the oldest wine-making regions outside of Europe, where Dutch and French settlers began tending vines in the mid-1600s. For a week, including Valentine’s Day when we celebrated our 31st anniversary, we explored the stunningly beautiful Winelands of the western cape, less than an hour drive from Cape Town.
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All Aboard
Another way to visit Winelands estates is
aboard the Franschhoek Wine Tram, hop-on,
hop off transportation via double-decker vintage
trams and buses. Tickets are a bargain -
less than $15 per person. Choose from eight
different lines or loops and stay as long as you
like at the different wineries for tastings, tours
and meals. Just be sure to match your schedule
to the Tram’s return to the Franschhoek terminal,
just outside of town. Because there’s no
drinking on board, these aren’t party trams -
ala Napa Valley Wine Train - though the atmosphere
on the trams grows jollier as the day progresses.
To help plan your day, the Tram website provides
detailed descriptions of each winery stop
on each route. Thanks to our innkeepers, fellow
Plumwood guests and a few San Diego garden
lovers, we knew our must see was
Babylonstoren, a sprawling farm, winery, hotelspa
and fine dining destination spread over
eight acres. We picked the Purple Line and arrived
at our desired stop in time for lunch.
Farming and grape growing on this mountain-ringed
land dates back to the late 17th
century, and some of the early white-washed
Cape Dutch-style buildings remain. Many have
been repurposed by the current owners, South
African billionaire Koos Bekker and his wife,
style maven Karen Roos, into Babylonstoren’s
chic eateries and farm shops selling handmade
soaps, fresh breads, charcuterie, balsamic vinegar
and make-your-own bath salts.
The grand gardens - classical parteres lush
with ornamentals and edibles that supply onsite
kitchens - are rooted in history too. Designs
by French architect Patrice Taravella
found inspiration in Cape Town’s historic Company’s
Garden created to restock Dutch East
India Company trading ships hundreds of years
ago. Free-range chickens, waddling ducks and
paddocked donkeys accent the romantic notions
of agrarian life celebrated here.