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Wednesday <strong>September</strong> <strong>16</strong> <strong>2020</strong> Latest Canterbury news at starnews.co.nz BAY HARBOUR PAGE 23 Wine Depth and character reds produce increased drinkability • By Mark Henderson WINE LOVERS of a certain age will remember references to a characteristic called “Kiwi green”. No, I’m not talking about another mind-altering substance now under debate, but a pronounced green, leafy, capsicum note that was prevalent in cabernet-based New Zealand reds from the 80s and 90s. It is derived from a chemical compound called methoxypyrazine, which is also found in sauvignon blanc. Discussion during the tasting centred on the eradication of this character, with the increased drinkability this has given New Zealand reds. 2018 Mills Reef Reserve Gimblett Gravels Merlot Malbec Price: $24.95 Rating: Very good to excellent Attractive nose of dusty stones, earth and bonfire smoke with darker fruits emerging. Brightly fruited, boysenberry and plum, and a powerful smoky note with time. Medium weight, juicy with fresh acidity and an attractively dry, almost chalky mid palate. Already showing nice drinkability. www.millsreef.co.nz 2018 Kahurangi Estate Regional Selection Hawke’s <strong>Bay</strong> Merlot Cabernet Price: $21.99 Rating: Very good to excellent Subtle nose with hints of spice, blackcurrant, fruit pastille and a gravelly quality. Bold fruit-driven style with crunchy bright tannins that grow with aeration, adding a ferrous note over time. Showing its brashly youthful side now. A zesty style offering enjoyable drinking at a very fair price. www.kahurangiwine. com 2019 Kahurangi Estate Monte Nelson Montepulciano Price: $24.99 Rating: Very good to excellent Fragrant, floral nose, cassis, rose and raspberry. Boldly juicy and crunchy palate, a little grainy element to the texture, ripe dark fruits caressed by some nicely judged tannins. Youthful playfulness, a sweet raspberry cordial note countered by a tangy quality. Crisp, long, fruit-driven close. A lot of appeal. www.kahurangiwine. com 20<strong>16</strong> Church Road Grand Reserve Hawkes <strong>Bay</strong> Merlot Cabernet Price: $44.99 Rating: Excellent to outstanding Powerful cedary oak, intensely fruited with cassis, plum and a whisper of leaf. Silky and sumptuous palate before powerful tannins come rushing in; underlying this is sweetly ripe fruit, spicy nuances and hints of black tea. Built for the long haul yet approachable now with a long finish. Super stuff. www.church-road. com 20<strong>16</strong> Pegasus <strong>Bay</strong> Maesto Merlot Cabernet Malbec Price: $52 Rating: Excellent Opens to fruit jube/berry jam, moving to plum, bonfire smoke and a funky earthy note. The palate mixes sweet fruit, spices, oak nuances, lead pencil, road tar and earth, subtly building tannins adding chewiness to the texture. An intriguing rusticity to this. This one plays with my head, yet the complexity and depth win the day. www.pegasusbay.com 2018 Mills Reef Reserve Gimblett Gravels Merlot Price: $24.95 Rating: Excellent Leaf mulch, blackcurrant, herbs, dusty gravel. Sweet fruit yet not overblown, featuring blackcurrant, leaf and earthy touches. Fine and elegant, a sort of Kiwi classicism with its medium weight, the fine tannins giving this structure to take this forward. Already showing excellent drinkability, yet potential too. www.millsreef.co.nz