Counter Culture 5

5
Counter
Culture
shoptactics
Come Together
How to positively embrace store team
diversity to achieve common goals.
VM and Vigour
The athleisure trend changing the
appearance of sportswear VM in-store.
Waste Not
Maximising productivity by achieving
a ‘right first time’ approach instore.
How retailers will…
Survive + Grow
visualthinking.co.uk

Positive retail transformation.
No one takes stores from better to ‘best’ faster.
visualthinking.co.uk

5
Contents
06 The Leader
Our managing director Karl McKeever introduces
the thinking behind our special edition of Counter
Culture, and explains why there are plenty of reasons for
those who have their heart, and professional reputations,
set on delivering retail transformation to both think and
act positively in the months ahead.
Culture
08 Come together
Age, gender, language, culture, interests, baselevel
knowledge and skills – even the driver for working in
retail at all. Stores are rich in diversity, but retailers must
find ways to bring people together to towards
a common goal.
11
Tastes
change
11 Tastes change
15 Wonderful everyday
Positive charge
Go straight to the stories that will inspire retail
performance, faster. Just look out for the battery
icon inside.

5
Contents
Behaviour
23 Best of times
There is no such thing as a loyal shopper these days,
23
meaning retailers must now think differently.
With psychology changing, the emphasis is now focusing
Best of
times
on creating rewarding retail experiences to earn, rather
than buy, shopper loyalty.
28 Instantly gratifying
53 Ups and downs
31 Shelf esteem
Physical
34 VM and vigour
38 Selling with sole
44 Positively different
Part of a much larger movement of gender liberation,
the growth of unisex fashion poses serious questions for
the traditional, rigidly gendered retail sales markets of
menswear and womenswear.
59 Moments of happiness

5
Contents
Climate
62 Waste not
As business costs continue to rise, retailers can no
62
longer afford to waste investment, hours and effort
through failure to achieve a ‘right first time’
Waste
approach instore.
not
69 A new leaf
73 Filling a gap
68 Body confidence
Travel
47 Small wonders
Over in Finland, retailer Costo is one of many aspiring,
cool entrepreneurial brands proving that sustainability
can be good for business, and for the planet.
Offcuts have never been sexier.
50 All change in NYC
55 Capital gains
Visual Thinking
We have been at the forefront of accelerating retail transformation and implementing
instore best practice for almost 25 years. Retail Excellence is in our agency’s DNA;
delivering clear, consistent and integrated visual retail standards to improve retail
performance.
Let’s talk: +44 (0) 2080 506 028
www.visualthinking.co.uk
#shoptactics
Published by
Visual Thinking Limited
UK

Leader
Good news: Counter Culture is back. And the emphasis for this
issue is most definitely on the positive.
The debate about the health of UK retail is, like in so many
countries around the world, often tinged with a sense of negative
foreboding. While these are clearly difficult times (we’ll be avoiding
talk of Brexit), for those of you who seek proof that better is
possible, there are many stories of positive retail change to be
found. Sales are soaring at Zara, while value giant B&M recently
announced an impressive leap in pre-tax profits. Homeware brand
Sheridan has enjoyed a 31 per cent sales uplift thanks to new
store-ready VM policies. In the telco sector, O2 has increased
compliance to visual store standards by a staggering 32 per cent.
There’s more good news. 80 per cent of retail executives say their
business understands the need for transformation.* Yet less than
half know the capabilities needed to make their transformation
journey a success. And just 24 per cent say they know what
transformation looks like on a day-to-day basis.
Thankfully, it’s a ‘solvable problem’. But be warned: if you don’t
deliver positive and effective retail transformation at store level,
others will. Our experience of accelerating improvements in
retail performance helps to deliver winning instore experiences,
repeatedly and consistently.
It’s time for positive action. Are you with us?
Karl McKeever, founder – karl@visualthinking.co.uk
*The DNA of the Retailers of the Tomorrow report,
unveiled at the World Retail Congress, Dubai, April 2017.
06

If you don’t change
the future, others will.
See the difference
Retail transformation,
from the people who
have been making
better possible
for 25 years.
visualthinking.co.uk
07

Come
together
Words by:
Tina Emerson
Image:
Liam Cooper
Share
08

Rich in diversity, store teams must also
work together to achieve common goals.
“What unites us is far greater than what divides
us.” Given recent events, those words – first
uttered by President Kennedy in 1961 – have
perhaps never been more appropriate.
Whoever has responsibility for implementing
change programs at store level, they have a
huge job on their hands. A diverse team will
inherently create a working environment where
ideas and approaches will be challenged. At the
A quick scan of today’s headlines can portray
an obsession with focusing self-interest rather
than common goals. The current US president
is certainly doing little to help on that score.
Thankfully, a renewed spirit of both community
and non-conformity is clearly evident too.
right level this can lead to the most efficient and
creative solutions to the biggest problems. But
at a store implementation level, it can have quite
the opposite effect – leading to an inconsistent
brand experience and, worse still, a negative
and costly impact on operational productivity.
If Donald Trump were a retailer, he’d no doubt
have very different views on inclusiveness.
Diversity courses deeply through the veins of
retail. Even for those who operate in a single
country, the one thing all retailers have in
common is there is no one defining definition of
who works in a store. Age, gender, language,
culture, interests, base-level knowledge and
skills – even the driver for being in a store at
all – retail has one of most diverse working
populations in industry. This presents a major
challenge for retailers when it comes to rallying
team members around a goal.
It is a recognised fact that a one-size-fits-all has
had its day. So why do so few retailer
transformation programs reflect this? For
stores to thrive that needs to change. Only
by supporting store teams with flexible retail
and VM training – delivered using a variety of
channels that take into account differences in
knowledge, skills
and learning needs – will retailers be able to
positively influence the “collective mood” but
also ensure retail policy, VM guidelines, and
expectations are clearly communicated and
universally understood
Tina Emerson is learning and development manager at Visual Thinking.
09

Image: The O2 Visual Excellence program has seen
a 34% in compliance
Image: Harley-Davidson’s global VM program has
achieved best practice buy-in around the world
View projects
Image: John Lewis 2017
“National Treasures” summer campaign
10

Tastes
Change
Supermarkets ability to keep
things fresh is about to be
put to the ultimate test.
Words by: Suzanne Tanner
Image: Verena Yunita Yapi
Share
11

Image: The new concept for supermarket chain
Solera opened in Cologne, Germany in March
this year © Masquespacio
The sector could be
set for the biggest
change of all.
12

Image: Summer Hill Supermarket, Sydney © loopcreative
A good supermarket can make a huge impact on our quality of life, with the very best providing
much more than basic sustenance; the City Market “urban concept” neighbourhood grocery store
from Canadian chain Loblaws is a fine example of this, with its compact yet refreshing and edgy
retail experience. Then there’s Coop’s Supermarket Of The Future at Bicocca Village in Milan, and
the Help-yourself Herb Garden concept from Dutch supermarket chain Albert Heijn.
This is a sector that witnesses constant transformation. From non-food and then online growth, to
sustainability and provenance, self-scan technology, the shift towards all things discount, or even a
bit a instore farming. Visual Thinking is even busy supporting a certain upmarket UK grocery chain
at this very moment, helping it transform visual presentation instore.
But now, the sector could be set for the biggest change of all. Enter Amazon.
While grocery-restaurant hybrid Eataly has grown its business by advocating the “slow-food”
movement, Amazon is all about speed. And it appears to quickly be getting serious about grocery.
Its recent offer to buy the one-time darling of the grocery world, US chain Whole Foods Market, is a
clear signal of intent.
13

Image: Loblaw’s Independent CityMarket concept,
Toronto
Image: Amazon’s acquisition of Whole Foods Market
signals a watershed moment for the sector
Image from: Albert Heijn XL Help-yourself Herb
Garden in Amsterdam © studiomfd
Back in the UK, the lateness of Morrisons arrival into online grocery was seen in many ways as a
negative for the retailer. But perhaps for them, the ‘Cloud’ could literally offer a silver lining. Having
observed the successes and challenges endured by others, it announced an online tie-up with
Amazon in November last year; a decision that is looking increasingly smart based on developments
in the US. The move saw the launch of a new “Morrisons at Amazon” 1-hour delivery service for Prime
Members in selected areas.
Amazon may be a relative latecomer to the UK online grocery market but, given the opportunity, it
is a business that undoubtedly has the ability to innovate in this space and deliver “game-changing”
transformation. The one thing they don’t have is grocery expertise. But they are evolving, fast.
Meanwhile, instead of figuring out the innovation piece, the major supermarkets have been consumed
by seemingly endless focus on price. They aren’t naïve though, and surely realise that the time for
fresh thinking is now – before Amazon really comes knocking
Suzanne Tanner is senior retail project manager at Visual Thinking – suzanne@visualthinking.co.uk.
14

Wonderful
everyday
Words by:
Kirsty Kean
Image:
Jason Briscoe
Share
15

IKEA is a brand apart. Never afraid to
embrace novel ideas, its success story
is not just down to the products it sells,
but also its ability to form meaningful
connections with customers, employees,
and wider society. Its DNA has remained
unchanged since Ingvar Kamprad founded
the company – accessible and functional
solutions that are meant to improve
everyday life, in a uniquely IKEA way. Today,
the Kamprad family (one of the richest in
the world) is still committed to key values
surrounding quality, differences, loyalty,
and sustainability. Here is a company doing
genuinely transformative things – in store
and out. There are countless examples,
but we have chosen just a few to highlight.
16

iStock
Everything we put out there has purpose.
17

View projects
Image: Visual Thinking helped IKEA share best practice across Russia
Retail training workshops
Everything IKEA does is rooted in improving everyday life. Naturally, that applies to
the working lives of its retail teams, as well as to the lives of shoppers in the home.
The instore experience is a big part of the Swedish brand, but how do you replicate
that worldwide? We know the most effective way to deliver training is in person,
so we travelled to Russia, to IKEA’s subsidiary stores – sharing our knowledge and
understanding with teams to help bring the famed IKEA experience to life.
Keen to foster a great understanding of the shopper journey and mindset, IKEA
Russia worked with Visual Thinking to spearhead a series of retail development
workshops, using group activities and digital media to lay down the foundations for
retailexcellence that would transcend borders and language, driving more effective
team buy-in to the brand’s purpose, policies and practices within each store.
Since its inception, IKEA has been able to share best practice across Russia, with
trained teams able to use learning to give shoppers a better, more engaging retail
experience in every store, every day.
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19

Festival ready
“We want to bring smiles to people’s faces,”
explains UK menswear designer Kit Neale.
He’s currently hot property in British design, and
the man behind IKEA’s limited edition SPRIDD
festival range.
Like navigating line-ups and stages at music
festivals this summer, the importance of getting
your instore campaign right is undeniable.
Image: IKEA festival range, Birmingham
Not only do retailers often have to negotiate the
British weather with deftness, but they must
also find ways to deliver a credible, well-curated
summer story instore.
First launched in Australia at the end of 2016,
IKEA’s limited edition SPRIDD collection is
energetic, chaotic and young. Music and
mobility are the starting points for SPRIDD.
Inspired by loosely interpreted music styles, Kit
Neale and IKEA have created four expressions
that are still part of one and the same
print-it-out-loud collection.
Image: British menswear designer Kit Neale for IKEA
20

Home Sweet Home
The concept of the company town model is not new.
In the late 19th Century, Czech shoe company Bata
built a number of towns across the world, including
in the UK. As well as a job, the company also leased
modernist houses to their employees. In Bata-ville,
as these company towns were known, even the
schools, cinemas and social events were all run by
the company.
Now IKEA is getting in on the game, building 34
affordable micro-apartments in the Icelandic capital
Reykjavik for employees. The cost of buying or
renting a home has become a hot topic in Reykjavik,
where a tourist boom has seen prices skyrocket.
“We have set the benchmark high for others to
follow, which hopefully leads to higher standards,”
says Thor Aevarsson, country manager of IKEA
Iceland. “The total look and final result should speak
strong IKEA language.”
Bournville, established by George Cadbury in 1893,
still remains the most famous example in the UK.
Created for workers at his chocolate factory, it is
home to 25,000 residents today. Strict guidelines
dictate what residents can and cannot do to their
properties. Hedges must be kept to a certain
height, while front door colours and other aesthetic
details are regulated. The guidelines may seem
stuffy to some, but for the majority of residents they
are a small price to pay for quality surroundings,
better living standards, and a strong sense of
togetherness.

Image: IKEA’s emergency shelter homes was named Winner of the Beazley Designs of the Year Award
Refugee and shelter
According to the UNHCR, the number of
refugees now tops 65 million people. It’s
a staggering figure, a huge humanitarian
challenge, and one that could easily overwhelm
even the most committed.
But perhaps the question should be: why was
it so long coming? Finally, someone thought,
“Who do we know who can mass produced
easy-to-assemble furniture for the home, in
a way that is easy to transport, and that can
whack it out cheaply?” It just goes to show that
But for many who have been displaced, IKEA’s
flatpack refugee shelter may finally offer a
symbol of hope. Winner of the Beazley Designs
of the Year Award, the emergency shelter homes
– a brand collaboration with the UN – offer
if you want new thinking and a transformative
solution, you should bring someone in who are
specialists in that discipline with the expertise
and knowledge to deliver solutions that work –
imaginatively, effectively and cost-affordably
safety and security. They can be assembled in
4 hours, have a lifespan of 3 yearas and, most
significantly of all, they can be locked – enabling
refugees to protect their possessions, and
delivering a unique piece of dignity.
Kirsty Kean is senior retail project manager at Visual Thinking – kirsty@visualthinking.co.uk.
22

Best
of times
The psychology behind
loyalty schemes is changing
with the emphasis now
much more on retailers
Words by: Jo Roberts
Image: Andrew Welch
Share
23

There is no such thing as a loyal shopper
these days, meaning retailers must now
think differently.
The average person has more than three loyalty
cards in their wallet. That said, many just end up
gathering dust. Today, shoppers would rather
cross the street to buy from a competitor that
offers a better deal than ‘earn’ a few points they
may never redeem. Research by TCC Global
reports significant loyalty card fatigue, with 61
The combination of straitened times and the
rapid growth of online shopping has given
shoppers more freedom to shop around, and
motivated them to ditch brands which don’t
provide a truly rewarding brand experience – in
the US, it is reported that up to a fifth of all US
shoppers feel brands take them for granted.
per cent of shoppers saying that they
“want to feel rewarded for loyalty by more than
just another loyalty card”.
Savvy retailers understand the need to earn
shopper loyalty, rather than effectively paying
them for it through standard programmes
Supermarkets have been hit particularly hard
by this ‘disloyalty’ trend, as more of us brandhop
to get the best deals. Kantar Worldpanel
suggests shoppers are happy to visit five
different supermarket brands in any
given month.
designed to build brand devotion. As a result,
businesses from luxury department stores
through to cafés and hotel chains are rethinking
loyalty altogether. Harvey Nichols has launched
a loyalty app called Rewards, which uses data
and location information to give shoppers
personalised and “surprising” experiences.
The challenge of wooing this so called
promiscuous shopper is nothing new, but it has
been heightened since the global recession.
The department store hopes that these more
memorable experiences will keep shoppers
coming back.
Jo Roberts is the current head of content marketing for Centaur Media. Previously, she has held the roles of editor with National
Grocery Buyer, editor and deputy features editor of Marketing Week, and features writer for Brand Strategy magazine.
24

Image: The Benetton Pop Up Cube, Milan engaged over 2000 people with an average age of 28 years.
But this move towards a more emotional
connection with shoppers is not just confined
to loyalty programmes but has shifted into the
wider instore experience too.
terms of ‘hard’ elements, such as store design,
finishes, materials, or even above-the-line
advertising carry-through, but by focusing on
the ‘soft power’ – personalisation, ease of shop,
visual merchandising, customer service, and
Almost 90 per cent of shoppers say a great brand
experience is key to driving loyalty, according
to Econsultancy. Creating real emotional
engagement is key to this. “The idea that we
always have to have a loyalty programme –
brand standards. Katie Baron, head of retail
at trends and research agency Stylus, says
this approach is going to be key to the future
success of retail as “experience will be the key
brand differentiator” on the high street.
I just want to break that,” believes Nathan Watts,
creative director of retail design agency FITCH.
“There are other ways to generate that loyalty. It’s
about rewarding a visit.” He adds that brands
and agencies need to think: “How do we be
generous to our shoppers when they’re in the
store?”
Put simply, the days of shopper excitement over
the number of points they have on their store
cards may be well and truly over. But by creating
shopper-centric instore experiences, retailers will
find they attract a more engaged and passionate
wave of brand loyalists – guaranteed to be very
rewarding to the bottom line
One way is to invest in the brand experience
that shoppers are exposed to instore. Not in
25

Image: WOSJH, Amsterdam
Almost 90 per cent of
shoppers say a great brand
experience is key to
driving loyalty.
26

Yesterday.
Now.
Tomorrow.
27

Instantly
gratifying
Millennials want to jump
straight in and enjoy today
instead of waiting for what
might be tomorrow.
Words by: Kate Nightingale
Image: Jakob Owens
Share
28

Millennials are an impatient, ‘live for the
moment’, dopamine-addicted generation.
Right? I’m not a fan of putting people into
boxes. As a psychologist, and more simply
as a human, I know that boxes are never a
holistic or exhaustive description of a person.
It’s perhaps unsurprising then that, in an
attempt to understand the next generation of
consumers and their sometimes seemingly
‘other-worldly ways’, marketers try to put them
into a box.
The one common trait that does seem to define
all Millennials is their ability to multi-task.
As the first ‘wave’ of digital natives, having never
known a world without connected devices, they
are, arguably, better at it than any generation
that has gone before. From the point of view
of brand engagement, this creates a problem.
Rarely focused on one task, and almost never
disengaged from their mobile or tablet devices,
they are in a constant state of partial attention.
29

Millennials are looking for brands which
help them add value to their lives.
Having grown up in a world where you can get anything you want, instantly,
the macro social influences that shaped their lives certainly seem to back
up this view of Millennials. Every parent wants their children to have more
opportunities and a better life than they had. Millennials’ parents gave them
plenty of things and experiences they never had. As a result, Millennials were
over-saturated with materialism.
But they have had another influence which shaped them – terrorism
and violence. More and more frequent reminders of mortality have
subconsciously influenced them to focus on the moment and squeeze
the most out of it, because there might not be a tomorrow. Indeed, many
spiritual leaders, such as the Dalai Lama, advocate this as a way to
achieve ultimate wellbeing. Taking all this into account, it’s easy to see
why Millennials might in fact avoid life by further addicting themselves to
technology or experiences. Millennials are looking for brands which help
them add value to their lives – whether it’s changing the world, improving
their self-esteem, learning new skills, or creating new relationships. Apple’s
seminars and LEGO Ideas are two great examples of this thinking in action.
While media focus may already have turned to Gen Z, successfully
connecting with Millennials remains vital for the majority of mainstream high
street retailers. Greater emphasis must be placed on bringing the symbolic
meaning behind the brand to life instore, rather than simply selling the ‘why’,
and on embracing their keenness to share their opinions – Millennials place
greater value on those who listen to them. So be curious. Never assume.
Ask. Listen to truly understand. Millennials have made the conscious choice
to enjoy every moment now rather than hope they will when they retire. If
retailers are to get Millennials to lift their heads from their electronic devices,
then they too must continue to think differently
Kate Nightingale is a consumer, fashion and brand psychologist founder, and CEO of Style Psychology
30

Shelf
esteem
The impact of
mental wellbeing
Words by:
Lisa Lawson
on happiness and
productivity is well
known, but too
often skirted.
Share
This will leave you speechless. The impact
of mental health is evident. It costs the UK
an estimated £105bn per year*. 94 per cent
of Millennials say they identify with feeling
“overwhelmed” and actively want help to
for it. WHSmith may be the world’s oldest national
retail chain, and often lambasted for the physical
state of some of its store estate, but in this
respect both its leader and the retailer are clearly
demonstrating a progressive attitude.
make decisions they can trust, but the stigma
surrounding mental ill health remains.
Elsewhere, comedian and campaigner Ruby Wax
In today’s fast-paced, highly pressured
environment, opportunities to take stock, to see
things with fresh and clear eyes, and think – really
think – are few and far between. And yet we all
has teamed up with M&S to launch the not-forprofit
Frazzled Café – creating communal spaces
within M&S stores that give people who are
overwhelmed by modern life a chance to come
together.
know a positive state of mind is key to achieving
goals.
Like so many things, being able to take the first
steps to thinking differently and creating positive
As part of projects to mark its 225th anniversary,
WHSmith is investing £250,000 to train 1,000
store managers in Mental Health First Aid. In an
interview in The Telegraph earlier this year, CEO
Steve Clarke talked openly about how mental
affected his family – something that’s rare for a
FTSE CEO to do, and he should be applauded
changes relies on developing a truly inclusive
environment where open communication is
championed, and people feel able to share and
discuss ideas and issues, as well as giving people
the support they need to realise their true potential
and end every day with a sense of worth and
fulfillment
Lisa Lawson is senior retail project manager at Visual Thinking – lisa@visualthinking.co.uk
31

Image: Celebrity Ruby Wax launched Frazzled café
concept with M&S
Image: The Body Shop Super Food Masks window display, London.
32

One word,
can end a fight.
One moment,
can transform
a brand.
33

VM and
vigour
Athleisure promises a more relaxed future,
although its giving retailers a workout too.
Words by: Katy Trodd
Image: Dan Gold
Share
34

Image: The Canadian athletic apparel retailer Lululemon first launched in 1998
Exercise can be transformative for the body. And it appears more and more of us are hoping that
just looking like we’re at the gym has a similar same effect.
According to research by the Australian Sporting Goods Association, activewear enables females
to move more positively. Ideologies aside, athleisure is a hot commodity in fashion retail right now.
Globally, it’s a market worth £213bn, led by the likes of Lululemon, Manuka Life, and Nike, with
its powerful ‘If you have a body, you are an athlete’ message. While Lululemon has, arguably,
developed the handwriting for how to deliver the retail offer in this sector, mainstream retailers
such as Topshop, H&M, UNIQLO, Carbon38, Varley, and even discount supermarket chain Aldi,
are trying to capitalise on this global fashion phenomenon and take a slice of the pie (served
with low fat cream, of course). As a result, the athleisure marketplace has become
somewhat crowded.
But getting it right is far from plain sailing. Some industry commentators noted that Lululemon’s
spring collection failed to translate its design vision with sufficient authority through VM instore.
Meanwhile, Canadian casualwear brand Kit and Ace, founded by the family behind Lululemon,
has recently closed its stores in the UK, Australia and the US. Its decision highlights the difficulties
that can exist when there are two brands in the same space, doing the same thing. Irrespective
of how great the product maybe, both examples show how important it is for retailers to put in
the hard work – capturing valuable insight into how differentiation can be expressed instore,
and delivered effectively. Only then will retailers be in the best possible shape for the future
Katy Trodd is retail project manager at Visual Thinking – katy.trodd@visualthinking.co.uk.
35

Image: Lululemon’s UK flagship on London’s Regent
Street
Image: Lane Crawford, Hong Kong
Image: Lululemon, Spitalfields, London
Image: Kit & Ace store in Toronto, Canada
36

Athleisure is a hot
commodity in fashion
retail right now.
Globally, it’s a market
worth £213bn.
Image: Paul Smith Sport pop-up, Bicester Village, Oxfordshire
37

Selling
with sole
With men’s shoe collections growing, brands
are keen to put their best foot forward.
Words by: Alfred Tong
Share
38

Men are becoming more adventurous and
engaged with fashion and, correspondingly,
with footwear as a result.
The stereotype of the shoe-mad (female)
fashionista is being turned on its head.
Research from Mintel shows that men aged
25-44 are now more likely than women of
the same age to be motivated to update
their footwear because of a new fashion
trend. The numbers tell a story of men
becoming more adventurous and engaged
with fashion and, correspondingly, with
footwear as a result. Much of this growth
can be put down to the rising popularity
of trainers and casual, fashion inspired
shoes: “Sneakers are to men what designer
handbags were to women: items which
have huge cultural and design cache,”
says DJ Kish Kash, London’s most prolific
trainer collector, whose own collection
totals almost 2,000 pairs.
39

Image: Cheaney Shoes offers a club-like gentlemen’s
outfitters environment
Image: Cheaney Shoes, Covent Garden
40

According to Mintel’s research, 52% of people
want retailers to help them find a better fit.
Brands such as Red Wing, Clarks Originals,
Timberland and Dr Martens also have huge
appeal for men who are into trainers, explains
Kash.“For instance, Clarks Originals, say a pair
of Wallabees, sit somewhere in the middle of the
formality spectrum. If you had a venn diagram
there’d be brogues on one side and trainers
on the other. A pair of Dr Martens or Wallabees
would sit bang in the middle. It’s a sweet spot
because it helps men to dress for a variety of
According to Mintel research, the biggest
challenges for shoppers instore is finding the
right ‘fit’. 52% of people want retailers to do
more to help them. The investment being made
by the likes of schuh in technology not only
makes the instore experience more efficient, it
also allows retail teams to do what counts: to
offer expertise and advice, acting as a kind of
instore influencer rather than running to and fro
from the stockroom.
social situations, without the stuffiness of a fully
English leather shoe.”
In London, start-up shoe company Baudoin &
Lange make a version of the Belgian Slipper, a
Currently, the mantle of Leading UK Footwear
Brand belongs to Clarks. One of the ways in
which it has successfully achieved this is with the
rollout of its ‘Clarks Originals’ lines, all of which
have huge cult appeal from their association
with youth culture in Britain, Jamaica, and the
US. Clarks Originals taps into the trend for
authenticity, craftsmanship and heritage, at a
lightweight loafer, which was once a favourite
of New York WASPs (Bernie Madoff owned 300
pairs). “Our product is a staple like the Tod’s or
Gucci loafer, or Warby Parker glasses. We offer
the same shoe in different colours and materials.
So that makes it easier to offer consistent sizing.
Sizing and fit are a crucial issue,” explains the
brand’s founder, Bo van Langeveld.
relatively accessible price point of £90-£110. But
analysts believe it has to do more to keep up
with current trends.
41

In spite of some challenges, the men’s footwear
market, as with menswear as a whole, is ripe
with opportunity
42

It’s a space that encourages
shoppers to appreciate the
handcrafting and skill that
goes into making quality shoes.
For sheer theatricality and service, few stores
beat Crep Protect in London’s Fitzrovia.
It isn’t even a shoe brand, but a type of sneaker
cleaning product. Rare, exclusive and collectible
trainers sit upon Jenga-style bricks that jut out
of the wall and move along conveyor belts,
while screens display stock market-style ticker
tape showing the rise and fall of prices in the
international sneaker market. The store also
offers a cleaning service with which to fully
History, tradition and craftsmanship are the
themes for the design and interior of the
Cheaney Shoes flagship in Covent Garden. It’s a
space that encourages shoppers to appreciate
the handcrafting and skill that goes into making
quality shoes. Shoe lasts adorn the walls like an
art installation, while leather swatches, soles,
stitching etc., are housed in glass cabinets. It’s
a stylised Northamptonshire workshop brought
into the heart of central London.
refurbish trainers – using Crep Protect, of course.
In spite of challenges (best illustrated by the
While other shops such as Grenson and Oliver
Sweeney make use of photographs of men in
aprons polishing shoes, and have the odd tool
scattered around a mock in-store workshop,
atelier George Cleverley has no need: bespoke
shoes are actually still made here entirely by
near collapse and last minute rescue of Jones
Bootmaker and Brantano earlier this year), these
– and there are more – fine examples of best
practice in men’s footwear retailing illustrate a
sector which is in rude health, and ripe with both
instore creativity and opportunity
hand. Cleverley’s exclusive collaboration for
online men’s retailer MR PORTER and the MR
PORTER X Kingsman spy film franchise has
recently brought its ready-to-wear shoes to a
wider audience.
Alfred Tong is a journalist, trend forecaster and brand consultant who has written for The Times, The Face, Timeout,
Harpers Bazaar and Esquire. He has also consulted for American Express, Ralph Lauren, Nike and Thomas Pink.
43

Positively
different
Words by: Katy Trodd
Image: Adam Littman Davis
Share
44

The liberation of gender roles could also
deconstruct traditional approaches to VM.
Bowie, Prince, Grace Jones, Lady Gaga…hell,
even Miley Cyrus – anyone who doesn’t care
for labels, defiantly bends rules and gloriously
challenges stereotypes is to be celebrated.
Progressive brands, such Toogood London,
TILLYandWILLIAM and FLAVNT Streetwear
are leading the way in gender-neutral clothing,
while Selfridges celebrated fashion without
definition with its Agender shop-in-shop
Once viewed as counter-cultural, gender
blending isn’t new or even a trend per se.
Despite some (Mr Piers Morgan) calling nonbinary
identification a “fad”, Bowie was offering
a different way of being a man or a woman –
and the idea that you didn’t have to choose –
back in the 1970s. Today, Gaga encourages
her followers to embrace their “individuality”,
concept. Last year also saw Zara launch its
‘ungendered’ line of garments in 29 stores
across the UK. Some criticised the retailer for
using cisgendered models to present the range,
rather than anyone gender non-confirming, and
questioned just how ‘bold’ the move really was
– arguing that genderless should not simply
equal plain t-shirts and sweatpants.
promoting fashion, makeup and heels for all,
regardless of gender.
If more brands continue to embrace androgyny,
it could lead to a fundamental instore
Part of a much larger movement of unisex
fashion, the shifting of gender boundaries poses
serious questions for the traditional, rigidly
gendered retail sales markets of menswear and
womenswear. A report by agency J. Walter
Thompson found that only 44 per cent of Gen
transformation – the end of traditional instore
segregation – requiring retailers to explore how
clothing ranges could be merchandised more
fluidly. It would also mean that brands could
potentially sell twice… just think about that for a
minute
Z shoppers buy clothing designed for their
own gender. It was also revealed last year that
around 80 UK state schools were allowing pupils
to wear agender uniforms.
Katy Trodd is retail project manager at Visual Thinking – katy.trodd@visualthinking.co.uk.
45

PRIDE
WINS
Wilko ‘House Proud’ initiative +18% YOY sales increase
Achieving ‘Best in Class’ retail standards – in every store, every day.
46

Costo is one of Helsinki’s many
aspiring, cool entrepreneurial brands.
Offcuts have never been sexier.
Words by: Karl McKeever
Share
Small
wonders
Much is made of the Nordic commitment to
recycling. Tax breaks are available to Swedes
who repair rather than throw away, for example
– the nation sends less than 1 per cent of
waste to landfill each year. In fact, Sweden is
so effective at recycling that processing plants
import rubbish.
Over in Finland, one retailer is also proving
that sustainability can be good for business,
and for the planet. Tucked away in Helsinki,
accessories brand Costo (not Costco) is the
brainchild of three Finnish designers, who began
purchasing industry leftover materials to craft
sustainable products at low cost. Driven by the
belief that ‘fewer, better’ is better than ‘more,
cheaper’, Costo products can now be found
in stores across Finland, including the capital’s
Stockmann department store. Last year, the
brand launched its first concept store.
Made using carefully selected industrial off-cut
materials from furniture and fashion production,
the exceptional hats, bags and other accessories
are far from being a patchwork of recycled
materials – they are beautifully designed, with
a clean Nordic style in vibrant shades. This
attention to detail is also carefully woven into
product presentation instore. Hats line the walls,
equally spaced to create an impactful product
collage. Store teams clearly have a good eye
for pattern and colour, while retail standards
are high throughout. If its concept store fails to
inspire you (although that’s unlikely), the story
behind the brand and every one of its products
most certainly will. This really is an enviable store,
from a brand that we will hopefully see, and hear,
much more from in the future
47

The exceptional hats,
bags and other
accessories are far from
being a patchwork of
recycled materials.
48

Follow Karl on Twitter @karlmckeever.
Leftover material is purchased in small quantities and
in this manner; COSTO can sort the remnants and use
only the highest quality of fabrics in our “hats”.
49

All change
in NYC
It may have been named twice, but
New Yorkers appetite for urban
transformation is seemingly limitless.
Words by: Karl McKeever
Image: Ellie Pritts
Share
50

A few years ago SoHo was the talk of the town –
a ‘trendy retro’ neighbourhood where all the big
name designer brands and national retailers wanted
to be seen.
51

It’s the city that never sleeps. But on my most
recent visit, it appeared to be snoozing. It was
quiet – eerily so. It may boast some of the world’s
most dynamic retail, but where had all the
shoppers gone?
The absence was most noticeable in SoHo. An area in flux, rent and rates
are ravaging the area, a clutch of boarded-up stores the inevitable outcome.
NYC is a fiercely competitive environment where trends come and go
without celebration.
The constant transformation that’s visible across the city – and further afield in
Brooklyn, with its thriving indie scene – is fascinating to observe. And in spite of
the densely populated cityscape feeling like it is already full to bursting, somehow it
keeps finding ways, and the space, to surprise and delight inhabitants and visitors.
Next year, all eyes will turn to the regeneration of Hudson Yards. In the nexus of
Chelsea and Midtown West, it is the epicentre of Manhattan’s New West Side –
boasting the much-celebrated High Line. This neighbourhood is booming. The
transformation of the grungy Lower Manhattan neighbourhood, one of Manhattan’s
last undeveloped areas, is already looking stunning – a clear demonstration that,
like the Hudson river, everything has a natural ebb and flow that may bring bad
times, but also good
Karl McKeever is founder and managing director of Visual Thinking – karl@visualthinking.
co.uk Follow him on Twitter @karlmckeever.
52

Ups and
Retail footfall is always a bit of a
rollercoaster. Here’s a special report
from IPSOS Retail Performance on
the latest trends instore.
Words by: Dr Tim Denison
Image: Claire Satera
Share
53

With the UK enjoying record temperatures, here is
a round up of footfall hot spots around the isle.
Look at a map of retail footfall across the UK and you’ll see that levels somewhat
stagnated in May. Last month’s Retail Traffic Index (RTI) figures show that UK shopper
numbers were 4.2 per cent lower than in May 2016, despite a busy May bank holiday
week in which footfall was just 0.8 per cent lower than last year.
Footfall fell in every region of the country when compared with both last year and last
month, with South West England & Wales suffering from the biggest year-on-year drop
at -8.9 per cent. In comparison with April, Scotland & Northern Ireland witnessed the
biggest drop at -10.6%. The report is published monthly and derived from the number of
individual shoppers entering over 4,000 non-food retail stores across the UK.
As summer begins we usually see weekly footfall progressively rising, as the weather
improves and shopping becomes a more frequent pastime. The upswing didn’t happen
this year; that’s not to say it won’t, but it’s certainly late. At a time when we find
ourselves in political and economic no-man’s-land, it’s perhaps not surprising that
shoppers are exercising more caution when it comes to spending disposable income.
With four in ten shops managing at present to convert more browsers into spenders this
year over last, it’s apparent that shoppers are being more discerning and selective with
what they buy.
But as the sun begins to shine throughout the summer there is hope that the next few
months will deliver a more positive forecast
Dr Tim Denison is director of retail intelligence at IPSOS Retail Performance www.ipsos-retailperformance.com.
54

Capital gains
Toronto is known as a city of diversity so
it’s no surprise to see that variety carried
over into retailing too.
Image: Yeshi Kangrang
Share
55

Explorer: Toronto’s best loved
Guide by: Karl McKeever
The diversity that exists within Toronto reveals a thrilling and eclectic mix of must-see
retailers. For the latest in our global retail travel series, Explorer stopped off in Canada to
discover the retailers that are helping to transform its largest city.
Bite 678 Queen St W, Toronto, ON M6J 1E5
Cumbrae’s 714 Queen St W, Toronto, ON M6J 1E8
Arc’teryx 339 Queen St W, Toronto, ON M5V
House of VR 639 Queen St W, Toronto, ON M5V 2B7
Lavish & Squalor 253 Queen St W, Toronto, ON M5V 1Z4
Square Fish 461 Queen St W, Toronto, ON M5V 2A9
TIMBUK2 359 Queen St W, Toronto, ON M5V
Anthropologie 761 Queen St W, Toronto, ON M6J 1G1
Air Jordan 306 Yonge St, Toronto, ON M5B 1R4
Independent City Market 301 College St, Toronto, ON M5T 1S2
Let’s explore. Read our Explorer: Toronto article in full at
visualthinking.co.uk

Such is the blend of
influences in the city that
it is like visiting New York,
Covent Garden and Paris,
all within the same space.
Image: Lavish and Squalor, Torronto
57

Explorer:
Finding inspiration is easy with our Explorer global retail
travel series as your guide. From Istanbul to Las Vegas,
Helsinki and Toronto, we visit cities around the world to
review standout brand experiences in all their enticing,
energetic glory.
C
H
I
Subscribe. Sign up to our mailing list at visualthinking.co.uk
to receive every Explorer straight to your inbox.
@shoptactics
Let’s explore.
58

Moments of
happiness
Words by:
Helen Bonser
Share
It’s no secret that here at Visual Thinking
we’re big fans of those who strive to
provide us with moments of perfection.
From retailers, to hotels, airlines and
even the humble cab ride, here are a
few examples that act as a beacon for
excellence and prove that it isn’t just retail
that is ‘detail’.
59

Image: Every day, 730,000 people get around Tokyo
by taxi
Image: Kimpton Hotels’ ‘soft’ benefits are designed
to make everyone feel special
Image: Finnair understands the value of investing in
the fine art of flawless hospitality
60

Nihon Kotsu
Everyone needs a lift now and again. Nihon Kotsu – Tokyo’s biggest
taxi company – ensures its customers receive exactly that, in more
ways than one. Customers are greeted by white-gloved drivers,
arriving with deferential polite manners and spotless cars, and driven
by a real pride in their work. They even have hydraulic levers to open
and close the back door for customers. The company is thriving
by offering better service than anyone else. Nihon Kotsu’s training
programmes ensure every driver learns what it takes to deliver the
brand experience, and why taking pride in the job matters. Nothing
is left to chance. To the company’s boss Kawanabe, the value in his
drivers getting it right is obvious: “Customers will want to ride with you
and you will perform better.”
Kimpton Hotels
Kimpton Hotels demonstrate a true commitment to cosy benefits
and the small touches that make guest stays truly memorable
– even if they are of the four-legged variety. Founded in 1981 in
San Francisco, Kimpton has a simple pet policy: if the pet can fit
through the hotel doors, they’re welcome to stay. No size, weight
or breed restrictions, and no additional charges. Each of its 60
hotels provides water bowls, treats, pet beds, toys and pooperscooper
bags. Some hotels even have a four-legged ‘Director of Pet
Relations’, whose job it is to ensure pet amenities are up to snuff
and provide a very personal welcome. There are plenty of signature
wellness perks for regular guests too, such as in-room yoga mats,
and the use of complimentary public bikes at all properties to pedal
around and explore town.
Finnair
Done well, a national airline is the ultimate soft-power ambassador
to reinforce a country’s global reputation. Finland is recognised as a
country in which to enjoy quality, delivered by professionals. It’s why
employees of national carrier Finnair are busy learning the fine art
of flawless hospitality. With the Finnair Flight Academy it’s all about
people. The airline puts its success down to its people having a
true can-do attitude and a focus on clarity. It has also joined forces
with Finnish fashion company Marimekko. Its designs have become
an inherent part of the Finnair air travel experience over the past
few years – the Marimekko for Finnair collection has been specially
designed to add a light and fresh visual dimension to the
on-board experience
Helen Bonser is senior retail project manager at Visual Thinking – helen@visualthinking.co.uk.
61

Waste
not
Words by: Lisa Lawson
Image: iStock
Share
Cover feature
62

I have hope.
I know it’s possible…
to do it a better way.
Eileen Fisher
Founder of US womenswear brand, Eileen Fisher
63

Keep your eyes on waste. We’re not talking physical
waste, although if you work in the fashion industry that
is a problem – a huge one. In spring 2017, 235m items of
clothing were sent to UK landfill, a figure largely blamed
on the throwaway culture that ‘fast fashion’
has fuelled.
No, there is another kind of waste: one that harms productivity rather than
the environment. As business costs continue to rise, retailers are suffering from
the burden, both operationally and financially, of being wasteful with two of their
most precious instore resources – time and people. Which is why, when retailers
are keen to optimise store performance, we start by showing them how they
could get more from what they already have. If you want to truly transform
bottom line store performance, that’s where the smart money is (saved).
Endless investment, hours and effort can be wasted through failure to achieve
a ‘right first time’ approach instore – either through uncertainty, confusion or
unnecessary repetition of daily tasks, or through store operations and visual
merchandising policies that simply are not fit for purpose.
64

Endless investment,
hours and effort can be
wasted through failure
to achieve a ‘right first
time’ approach instore
Image: & Other Stories, New York City
65

Image: O2 has seen compliance with visual standards rise by 34%
To say it’s about making stores, and the people who work in them, more efficient and effective would
be an oversimplification. Indeed, there is a great deal of insight and work that goes into making instore
practices work better for a retailer and not, seemingly, working against it. Then there are the specific
knowledge and skills needed to embed new ways of working correctly and consistently.
According to WRAP UK, if the average life of clothes could be extended by just nine months, waste
footprints could be reduced by up to 30 per cent. Similarly, policy information could be cascaded by
retailers faster and more clearly, and instore compliance could increase by the same figure,
as telco retailer O2 discovered with the launch of its digital visual excellence tool. The good news
is that proven solutions already exist. The question is why, when innovative digital solutions allow
retail standards and store team performance to be monitored, measured and reported in real-time,
aren’t more high street retailers already benefiting from the savings they bring?
Lisa Lawson is senior retail project manager at Visual Thinking
– lisa@visualthinking.co.uk.
View projects
66

67

Body confidence
Words by: Helen Bonser
About 30 years ago a truly pioneering brand arrived on the high street, led by its campaigning founder Anita
Roddick. Highly disruptive, this was a brand full of energy and, most importantly of all, purpose. It was
the first international beauty brand to campaign against the practice of animal testing in cosmetics. With
strong, clearly communicated and meaningful values, the brand resonated well with increasingly ‘aware’
shoppers. Rapid growth followed.
Today, The Body Shop has 3,000 stores across the world. But huge growth and global consumption
turned out to be an oxymoron for an ethical brand. Many were not persuaded by its eventual sale to
L’Oréal. Sanitised and weakened in corporate corridors, The Body Shop appeared to lose its spirit. Brand
approval amongst shoppers, and profits, plunged as a result.
It may have once exemplified ethical retailing but, as in every retail sector, time and markets move on.
Today, its once game-changing retail concept has not just been copied, but bettered. None though have
the value of The Body Shop legacy.
Its latest campaign seeks to capitalise on this. Going back to its roots with a fresh ethics push, it is calling
for a total global ban on cosmetics animal testing on products and ingredients by 2020 – Cruelty Free
International estimates that approximately 500,000 animals are still used in cosmetics testing every year.
The campaign boldly proclaims that it is “here to finish what it started back in the 1980s”. With its £800m
sale to Brazilian cosmetics manufacturer Natura Cosméticos now complete, perhaps there really is hope
for a better future – one that will see The Body Shop finally deliver on potential instore too
Helen Bonser is senior retail project manager at Visual Thinking – helen@visualthinking.co.uk
68

A new leaf
Words by: Kirsty Kean
Image: Verena Yunita Yapi
Share
69

Houseplants are
hip again.
Scientific evidence suggests that
greenery boosts productivity and
wellbeing. But while architects
are giving integrated greenery
a prominent role in the design
process, retailers have been slow
to catch on.
Image: H&M London
70

Image: Kiehl, London
It’s fair to say that there’s always been something
of a drought in support for the idea of ‘greening’
stores. Recently, there’s been a noticeable change,
with stores up and down the land transformed by
a host of botanical offerings.
Apple has planted 12 Ficus Alii trees in its Regent
Street store. Over in Helsinki, design and textiles
store Kauniste has taken this concept to the next
level: its innovative ‘plant hotel’ service encourages
shoppers to display their houseplants in a private,
well-lit spot, where they will be cared for while
As well as helping to ‘domesticise’, humanise
they’re on holiday.
and soften retail spaces, biophilic design is seen
as a means of creating living, breathing sensory
experiences in which, crucially, shoppers will want
to dwell, and spend more money. The use of
plants and foliage is prominent within many current
instore schemes – H&M, Next and West Elm. As a
living contrast to the electronic devices on display,
But these seeds of change could deliver much
wider benefits. Research from Exeter University
suggests that being surrounded by greenery
makes employees more psychologically
engaged, aids memory retention, and can boost
productivity by 15 per cent. For retailers keen to
boost team performance instore, that would be
‘win-win’
Kirsty Kean is senior retail project manager at Visual Thinking – kirsty@visualthinking.co.uk.
71

Greenery continues to play a greater role in instore schemes
72

Filling
a gap
Ethical
consumerism
Words by:
Helen Bonser
isn’t just good for
the planet – it’s
big business too.
Share
73

There is a change of quite significant proportions
that is starting to gather momentum. Shoppers
have been aware of spending with conscience for
a number of years now. Anita Roddick led the way,
pioneering ethical consumption with the launch
of The Body Shop in 1976. Then there was Linda
McCartney, often mocked for her public support for
vegetarianism, who launched her own, at the time,
niche food range.
Fast forward 25 years and comedian Simon Amstell’s
highly acclaimed mockumentary on veganism, ‘Carnage’,
is breaking down barriers. According to the Vegan Society,
veganism is now one of Britain’s fastest growing lifestyle
movements. Its growth rate is up by 360 per cent over
the last 10 years, and more and more vegan products are
making their way into mainstream shopping baskets. Now
the Big 5 grocery retailers all have ‘free-from’ ranges. On the
high street, Pret A Manger has been quick to steal a march
on others by also advocating plant-based diets – recently
opening its second Veggie Pret, in London’s Shoreditch.
The decision by Pret to roll out this new fascia highlights
that, for those brave and committed enough, there are still
exciting growth opportunities to be found within what would
otherwise appear to be highly saturated markets. So while
the urge may be to seek stability, it is always vital for retailers
to guard against that resulting in an inability to evolve. After
all, as many positive examples from the past have shown,
today’s ‘fringe’ often becomes tomorrow’s mainstream
Helen Bonser is senior retail project manager at Visual Thinking – helen@visualthinking.co.uk
74

Image: London’s first vegan grocery store opened in
August 2016
Image: The latest Veggie Pret concept opened in
Shoreditch, London in spring 2017
Image: Lush is well-known for its ethical
employment practices
75

Closing
the loop
Attention all who think change isn’t
possible or sustainable: M&S has
proved it is. Aside for its new Plan
A 2025, it surely offers a sense of
hope that transformation of the retail
environment is achievable too.
Words by: Suzanne Tanner
Image: Timothy Paul Smith
Share
76

A decade has past since M&S first launched its
Plan A. As it proudly states on its website (and so
it should), M&S has gone far beyond its original
100-commitment – delivering 296 commitments
and receiving more than 240 awards. Now, it has
unveiled another 100-commitments. Build on the
success of the first 10 years, Plan A 2025 aims to
support 1,000 communities, help 10 million people
live happier, healthier lives and convert M&S into a
zero-waste business.
The success of Plan A highlights the transformative
impact that can be achieved when objectives are clear,
communicated effectively and universally adopted and
embraced at store level, and beyond – all M&S stores
promoted Plan A and appointed Plan A Champions.
The question has to be; why M&S has been able to
rally people around its push for greater sustainability so
effectively, and yet delivering real change in retail and
visual operations seems to remain such a huge challenge?
According to M&S director of sustainable business,
Mike Barry, “Plan A 2025 is designed to help inspire
customers to be the best they can be.” The focus for M&S
now must surely be on putting a plan in place to ensure it
can achieve the same kind of goal when in comes to the
shopper experience
Suzanne Tanner is senior retail project manager at Visual Thinking – suzanne@visualthinking.co.uk
77

18%
YOY sales uplift
– Wilko
96%
compliance
with retail
standards
– O2
24%
EMEA sales (YOY) increase
– Harley-Davidson
YOY sales increase
in pilot stores
– Big W
27%
45%
uplift in GM and
accessory sales
– Audi
visualthinking.co.uk
78

Positive retail transformation.
No one takes stores from better to ‘best’ faster.
visualthinking.co.uk
79

Good buy
Visual Thinking is a retail transformation agency
based in the UK and headed by a team of professional,
experienced and highly talented retail minds.
For almost 25 years, we have worked with retailers, at home
and abroad, to deliver powerful ‘best in class’ retail excellence
programs and leadership visual merchandising thinking –
improving team engagement, boosting productivity and
accelerating retail growth.
Let’s talk
+44 (0) 2080 506 028
mail@visualthinking.co.uk
www.visualthinking.co.uk
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