The Star: February 18, 2021
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• By Mark Henderson<br />
THE 20<strong>18</strong> vintage Gimblett<br />
Gravels dozen is split into six<br />
blended reds and six syrahs.<br />
When I pondered the varietal<br />
make-up of the blended reds, I<br />
noted that these were dominated<br />
by cabernet sauvignon, a later<br />
ripening grape than merlot, a<br />
tick of confidence to my mind<br />
from the winemakers, in getting<br />
flavour and physiologically ripe<br />
fruit at the end of the season.<br />
Abundant tannins are also a<br />
factor in these wines, which will<br />
give backbone as they age, but<br />
also complement food if you<br />
decide to broach these early.<br />
20<strong>18</strong> Elephant Hill<br />
Hieronymous<br />
Price: $120<br />
Rating: Outstanding<br />
A sense of volume to the<br />
nose, dust, gravel, riverstones,<br />
blackberry, blackcurrant,<br />
perfume.<br />
Powerful entry with tannins<br />
to match, adding a grainy feel to<br />
the texture. Mixed red and dark<br />
fruits, a wisp of leaf and savoury<br />
nuances; the fruit hanging on the<br />
long close, salivary glands getting<br />
a work out.<br />
Fleshes out nicely, complexity<br />
and completeness. Very elegant.<br />
www.elephanthill.co.nz<br />
20<strong>18</strong> Squawking Magpie<br />
Grand Gimblett cabernet<br />
sauvignon<br />
Price: $80<br />
Rating: Excellent to<br />
outstanding<br />
Ripe, sweeter fruits, flirts with<br />
liqueur fruits, bonfire embers/<br />
wood smoke, tobacco with time.<br />
A sweeter fruit core here, spices<br />
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and chocolate, silky texture and<br />
very fine tannins.<br />
Freshness and a cooling feel to<br />
this, the youthfulness becomes<br />
more apparent as the tannins grow<br />
more mouth puckering and the<br />
acidity more bracing. Needs time.<br />
www.squawkingmagpie.co.nz<br />
20<strong>18</strong> Saint Clair Pioneer<br />
Block 17 Gimblett Gravels<br />
cabernet merlot<br />
Price: $37.90<br />
Rating: Excellent<br />
A tangy quality, balsamic,<br />
savoury notes, then more<br />
restrained blackcurrant, berry<br />
compote and tar.<br />
Medium bodied with lovely<br />
purity of fruit highlighting<br />
blackcurrant and mixed berries.<br />
<strong>The</strong> tanginess continues on the<br />
palate, offering a vibrant, crunchy<br />
brightness.<br />
Elegant with super-drinkability,<br />
yet deceptive as there’s structure<br />
for the future.<br />
www.saintclair.co.nz<br />
20<strong>18</strong> Mission Estate<br />
Jewelstone Antoine<br />
Price: $50<br />
Rating: Excellent to<br />
outstanding<br />
A wisp of funk at first,<br />
humus, earth, road tar, the<br />
fruit hovering, a little cigar box<br />
with time. Mouth-puckering,<br />
powerful tannins driving this<br />
yet underlying creamy richness.<br />
Licorice, savoury nuances, black<br />
tea, the fruit carrying through to<br />
the long, dry finish. Could easily<br />
slip into a line-up of Bordeaux.<br />
An attractive, powerfully<br />
structured wine needing time.<br />
www.missionestate.co.nz<br />
20<strong>18</strong> Villa Maria<br />
Ngakirikiri<br />
Price: $150<br />
Rating: Outstanding<br />
Fascinating nose, tilled earth,<br />
wild herbs, bran, black fruits, leaf,<br />
wood smoke, perfume, evolving<br />
and changing.<br />
Silky entry, really fine tannins,<br />
deceptive depth, managing power<br />
Thursday <strong>February</strong> <strong>18</strong> <strong>2021</strong> <strong>The</strong> <strong>Star</strong><br />
WINE 25<br />
Tannins boost flavour in blended reds<br />
without overt weight. Chocolate,<br />
spice box, tobacco, leaf, savoury<br />
elements and dark fruits caress<br />
the palate, the tiniest saline<br />
nuance.<br />
Superb stuff.<br />
www.villamaria.co.nz<br />
20<strong>18</strong> Trinity Hill <strong>The</strong><br />
Gimblett<br />
Price: $40<br />
Rating: Excellent to<br />
outstanding<br />
Attractive nose of blackcurrant,<br />
leaf, earth, milk chocolate, spice<br />
and fruit liqueur. Richly fruited<br />
front palate, chocolate and dusty<br />
gravel backed by nicely judged<br />
tannins.<br />
A tingly quality too adds tangy<br />
brightness. <strong>The</strong>re’s lightness<br />
and finesse, the richness is here<br />
without being obviously big.<br />
www.trinityhill.com<br />
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