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The Star: February 18, 2021

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• By Mark Henderson<br />

THE 20<strong>18</strong> vintage Gimblett<br />

Gravels dozen is split into six<br />

blended reds and six syrahs.<br />

When I pondered the varietal<br />

make-up of the blended reds, I<br />

noted that these were dominated<br />

by cabernet sauvignon, a later<br />

ripening grape than merlot, a<br />

tick of confidence to my mind<br />

from the winemakers, in getting<br />

flavour and physiologically ripe<br />

fruit at the end of the season.<br />

Abundant tannins are also a<br />

factor in these wines, which will<br />

give backbone as they age, but<br />

also complement food if you<br />

decide to broach these early.<br />

20<strong>18</strong> Elephant Hill<br />

Hieronymous<br />

Price: $120<br />

Rating: Outstanding<br />

A sense of volume to the<br />

nose, dust, gravel, riverstones,<br />

blackberry, blackcurrant,<br />

perfume.<br />

Powerful entry with tannins<br />

to match, adding a grainy feel to<br />

the texture. Mixed red and dark<br />

fruits, a wisp of leaf and savoury<br />

nuances; the fruit hanging on the<br />

long close, salivary glands getting<br />

a work out.<br />

Fleshes out nicely, complexity<br />

and completeness. Very elegant.<br />

www.elephanthill.co.nz<br />

20<strong>18</strong> Squawking Magpie<br />

Grand Gimblett cabernet<br />

sauvignon<br />

Price: $80<br />

Rating: Excellent to<br />

outstanding<br />

Ripe, sweeter fruits, flirts with<br />

liqueur fruits, bonfire embers/<br />

wood smoke, tobacco with time.<br />

A sweeter fruit core here, spices<br />

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and chocolate, silky texture and<br />

very fine tannins.<br />

Freshness and a cooling feel to<br />

this, the youthfulness becomes<br />

more apparent as the tannins grow<br />

more mouth puckering and the<br />

acidity more bracing. Needs time.<br />

www.squawkingmagpie.co.nz<br />

20<strong>18</strong> Saint Clair Pioneer<br />

Block 17 Gimblett Gravels<br />

cabernet merlot<br />

Price: $37.90<br />

Rating: Excellent<br />

A tangy quality, balsamic,<br />

savoury notes, then more<br />

restrained blackcurrant, berry<br />

compote and tar.<br />

Medium bodied with lovely<br />

purity of fruit highlighting<br />

blackcurrant and mixed berries.<br />

<strong>The</strong> tanginess continues on the<br />

palate, offering a vibrant, crunchy<br />

brightness.<br />

Elegant with super-drinkability,<br />

yet deceptive as there’s structure<br />

for the future.<br />

www.saintclair.co.nz<br />

20<strong>18</strong> Mission Estate<br />

Jewelstone Antoine<br />

Price: $50<br />

Rating: Excellent to<br />

outstanding<br />

A wisp of funk at first,<br />

humus, earth, road tar, the<br />

fruit hovering, a little cigar box<br />

with time. Mouth-puckering,<br />

powerful tannins driving this<br />

yet underlying creamy richness.<br />

Licorice, savoury nuances, black<br />

tea, the fruit carrying through to<br />

the long, dry finish. Could easily<br />

slip into a line-up of Bordeaux.<br />

An attractive, powerfully<br />

structured wine needing time.<br />

www.missionestate.co.nz<br />

20<strong>18</strong> Villa Maria<br />

Ngakirikiri<br />

Price: $150<br />

Rating: Outstanding<br />

Fascinating nose, tilled earth,<br />

wild herbs, bran, black fruits, leaf,<br />

wood smoke, perfume, evolving<br />

and changing.<br />

Silky entry, really fine tannins,<br />

deceptive depth, managing power<br />

Thursday <strong>February</strong> <strong>18</strong> <strong>2021</strong> <strong>The</strong> <strong>Star</strong><br />

WINE 25<br />

Tannins boost flavour in blended reds<br />

without overt weight. Chocolate,<br />

spice box, tobacco, leaf, savoury<br />

elements and dark fruits caress<br />

the palate, the tiniest saline<br />

nuance.<br />

Superb stuff.<br />

www.villamaria.co.nz<br />

20<strong>18</strong> Trinity Hill <strong>The</strong><br />

Gimblett<br />

Price: $40<br />

Rating: Excellent to<br />

outstanding<br />

Attractive nose of blackcurrant,<br />

leaf, earth, milk chocolate, spice<br />

and fruit liqueur. Richly fruited<br />

front palate, chocolate and dusty<br />

gravel backed by nicely judged<br />

tannins.<br />

A tingly quality too adds tangy<br />

brightness. <strong>The</strong>re’s lightness<br />

and finesse, the richness is here<br />

without being obviously big.<br />

www.trinityhill.com<br />

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