Jeweller - May 2021

You also want an ePaper? Increase the reach of your titles

YUMPU automatically turns print PDFs into web optimized ePapers that Google loves.


MAY <strong>2021</strong><br />

Prime time<br />



Full spectrum<br />



Precious metal<br />



Helping you shine<br />

yesterday, today<br />

& tomorrow.<br />

Baumatic self-winding calibre, 40mm steel case<br />

baume-et-mercier.com<br />

Proudly distributed by<br />

(02) 9417 0177 | www.dgau.com.au<br />


The Natural Color Diamond Association is a not-for-profit organization<br />

with a mission to promote fair and informed trading by providing up-todate<br />

resources and advocating transparency, all while celebrating the beauty<br />

and ethos of colored diamonds.<br />

www.ncdia.com<br />

Email: office@ncdia.com

Access a diverse range of<br />

Argyle pink diamonds<br />



To have the privilege of acquiring an Argyle pink diamond tender stone is a chance of a<br />

lifetime. Since the penultimate 2020 Argyle tender has elapsed, the ability of procuring a<br />

top Argyle investment diamond grows slimmer. Offer the signature novelty of an Argyle<br />

pink diamond with prestige and proven heritage.<br />

PinkKimberley.com.au<br />

E pink@samsgroup.com.au W samsgroup.com.au P 02 9290 2199<br />



<strong>2021</strong> <strong>2021</strong> <strong>2021</strong> 2020 <strong>2021</strong> <strong>2021</strong> <strong>2021</strong> 2019 <strong>2021</strong> <strong>2021</strong><br />

pRED<br />

0.27 CARAT<br />





1P<br />

0.49 CARAT<br />



DIAMOND- 1P/SI2<br />


PINK /SI2<br />

3P<br />

0.52 CARAT<br />



DIAMOND- 3P/SI2<br />

GIA- FANCY<br />


3PR<br />

1.03 CARAT<br />



DIAMOND- 3PR/P1<br />


PINK /I1<br />

4PP<br />

0.54 CARAT<br />



DIAMOND- 4PP/SI1<br />



4PP<br />

0.41 CARAT<br />



DIAMOND- 4PP/SI2<br />



4PP<br />

0.50 CARAT<br />



DIAMOND- 4PP/SI1<br />


PINK /VS2<br />

4P<br />

0.72 CARAT<br />



DIAMOND- 4P/SI2<br />


PINK /SI2<br />

4P<br />

0.47 CARAT<br />



DIAMOND- 4P/P1<br />


PINK /I1<br />

5P<br />

0.50 CARAT<br />



DIAMOND- 5P/SI2<br />








MAY <strong>2021</strong><br />



MAY <strong>2021</strong><br />

Contents<br />

This Month<br />

Industry Facets<br />

14 Editor’s Desk<br />

25<br />

10 YEARS AGO<br />

Time Machine: <strong>May</strong> 2011<br />

15 Upfront<br />

27<br />

MY STORE<br />

John Franich <strong>Jeweller</strong>s<br />

17 News<br />

28<br />

NOW & THEN<br />

Percy Marks<br />

23 Product Spotlight<br />

30<br />


Moonstone<br />


Heavy metal<br />

37 <strong>Jeweller</strong>s Showcase<br />

55<br />

57<br />

MY BENCH<br />

David Hollanders<br />


Rikki McAndrew<br />

4CALLUM GLENNEN explores recent<br />

developments in casting and refining, including<br />

precious metal prices and advanced technology.<br />

Features<br />

31<br />

39<br />

43<br />


Reset and refine<br />


Watching the clock<br />


All things bright and beautiful<br />

Better Your Business<br />

49<br />


Community is critical to retail success, write RICH KIZER and GEORGANNE BENDER.<br />


Primary colours<br />

4Bold designs and vibrant hues<br />

51<br />

52<br />


SUE BARRETT reveals the three principles that should guide your sales strategy.<br />


BRIAN WALKER explores the role intuition plays in running a successful business.<br />

Springboard forward and together<br />

unify the industry!<br />

give coloured gemstones the edge,<br />

writes ARABELLA RODEN.<br />

53<br />

54<br />


CHRIS PETERSEN explains why the second sale is more valuable than the first.<br />


Revisit old blog posts to boost your search-engine rankings, advises BETH WALKER.<br />



Real fair go<br />

Prime time<br />

Full spectrum Precious metal<br />



by Expertise Events<br />

AUGUST 28 – 30, <strong>2021</strong><br />

Organised by<br />


reviews the state of the<br />

Swiss fairs following this<br />

year’s Watches & Wonders<br />

Geneva and Shanghai.<br />


Colonial Gemstones brings<br />

you premium, ethically-mined<br />

emeralds and emerald jewellery<br />

direct from the world-famous<br />

mines of Colombia.<br />

jewelleryfair.com.au<br />

ICC Sydney Exhibition Centre, Darling Harbour<br />

Est. 1990<br />

<strong>May</strong> <strong>2021</strong> | 12

Editor’s Desk<br />

One part water, one part soil and sharp scissors<br />

Recognising root rot is the first step towards saving a plant or tree, and just like gardening,<br />

a ‘dying’ business can often be saved by a repot and a solid prune. ANGELA HAN shares her experiences.<br />

Leaders and numbers<br />

have one thing in common...<br />

They both speak for themsel ves !<br />


GLOBAL<br />







1 <strong>Jeweller</strong> 66,094 25:31 14 Australia<br />

2 JCK 73,914 02:03 1.6 USA<br />

3 National <strong>Jeweller</strong> 118,273 01:49 1.8 USA<br />

4<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong>y Net Asia 136,914 07:11 6.7 Hong Kong<br />

5 Rapaport Magazine 145,914 01:57 1.6 USA<br />

* Alexa Global Ranking statistics as at 30 March <strong>2021</strong><br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong> been the leading voice of the Australian and New<br />

Zealand jewellery industries for more than two decades.<br />

Today we rank #1 in the world.<br />

Alexa, the independent global ranking system for measuring<br />

website traffi c and readership, now ranks jewellermagazine.com<br />

as the most widely read industry publication in the world.<br />

Better still, the daily time spent on jewellermagazine.com averages<br />

25 minutes, which far exceeds all other industry titles that average<br />

only 2–3 minutes per visitor, while <strong>Jeweller</strong>’s social media presence<br />

dominates and our eMags boast over 12.1 million reads.<br />

It’s clear, the numbers speak for themselves -<br />

follow the leader, and follow the readers too!<br />

Being a gardening enthusiast, I have a<br />

predilection for rescuing dying plants. As<br />

long as the roots are still healthy, there is<br />

always a chance it can be saved with some<br />

attention and care. While not all survive,<br />

it’s immensely edifying when they do.<br />

One of my proudest ‘rescues’ is a Hindu<br />

rope plant that I bought for a few dollars.<br />

Looking more dead than alive, I should have<br />

thought better than to take something home<br />

that may introduce new pests into my miniecosystem,<br />

but still took the risk knowing it<br />

was a rare find.<br />

I was told that the clusters of gem-like<br />

petals smelled of dark chocolate, which<br />

would intensify as the sun went down.<br />

Armed with hope and a bag of dirt, I was<br />

determined to save it. Having done some<br />

research, I knew it would need to be tightly<br />

root-bound in arid soil with a few hours of<br />

indirect sun each day – and given the rot in<br />

its roots, even more care would be needed.<br />

Because it takes Hindu rope plants anywhere<br />

between five and seven years to mature<br />

and finally flower, there was not a second to<br />

waste if I wanted to nurse it back to health<br />

and see it blossom!<br />

Caring for plants teaches the limitations<br />

of what is, and isn’t, within my control,<br />

especially having to work at the pace of<br />

Mother Nature and Father Time.<br />

Of the many lessons that the natural world<br />

reveals, here are the most important:<br />

A time to love, a time to hold back<br />

It doesn’t take long to discover each plants’<br />

particularities, with some being more ‘needy’<br />

than others. Tropical Calatheas can develop<br />

brown edges around the vibrant leaves if you<br />

so much as look at it the wrong way, while<br />

the hardy Zamioculcas thrives on neglect.<br />

Either way, it’s commonplace to kill<br />

houseplants with kindness, especially when<br />

you’re trying to rescue one.<br />

Similarly, our professional and work lives<br />

require varying degrees of attention in order<br />

to succeed, and excessive time spent serving<br />

the wrong needs can have destructive<br />

consequences.<br />

For example, spending too much time<br />

watching the bottom-line could be detrimental<br />

to your creative output; if the soul of your<br />

business suffers, at a certain point there will<br />

be no bottom-line left to manage.<br />

Inversely, spending too much time on<br />

creativity and neglecting the bottom-line<br />

could lead to cost blow-outs and wasted<br />

energy, whittling away the profit margin on<br />

even the most perfect product.<br />

To have a flourishing business, it’s imperative<br />

to regularly assess which areas need more –<br />

or less – attention and adjust your behaviour<br />

to address problems before it’s too late.<br />

Good ideas, and new businesses, are most<br />

fragile at conception; close monitoring<br />

is necessary but care must be taken not<br />

to ‘overwater’ or ‘over feed’. You can only<br />

expect to yield results under the right<br />

conditions (controllable) at the right time<br />

(uncontrollable).<br />

Fine-tuning small things each day can<br />

make a vast difference to ensure your<br />

business thrives.<br />

A time to prune, a time to harvest<br />

Ruthless pruning at the right time, and<br />

in the right place, is the golden rule of<br />

green-thumbed people; roses bloom with<br />

a vengeance after a good pruning, and<br />

peaches are sweetest after they’ve blushed.<br />

Like an untended garden, it’s easy to<br />

let innocent overgrowth consume your<br />

income and unclipped branches choke the<br />

business. However, making the right cuts<br />

will yield immediate changes and can turn<br />

a malnourished business into one that is<br />

robust and ready for growth.<br />

“Is there a need to finally address dead<br />

stock and throw away the tired old window<br />

displays?”<br />

“Do I need to sever ties with non-paying<br />

clients or deal with toxic staff members?”<br />

“Have I reviewed unnecessary business<br />

expenses that have grown out of control,<br />

like weeds?”<br />

Pruning can sometimes feel ruthless when<br />

you’re staring at a barebone branch, but<br />

patience is always rewarded in time with a<br />

more bountiful harvest.<br />

Pruning can<br />

sometimes feel<br />

ruthless when<br />

you’re staring<br />

at a barebone<br />

branch, but<br />

patience<br />

is always<br />

rewarded in<br />

time with a<br />

more bountiful<br />

harvest.<br />

A time for life, a time for death<br />

It’s easy to feel like a failure when you’re<br />

holding a dead plant over a rubbish or<br />

compost bin.<br />

“What could I have done differently?” is a<br />

question that has haunted anyone who has<br />

failed to bring their vision to fruition.<br />

Yet, even after doing everything right, there<br />

are some projects that will fail for reasons<br />

beyond comprehension.<br />

Luckily, as it turns out, death isn’t the<br />

opposite of life – but a critical part of it.<br />

In fact, many cultures believe that death<br />

completes and fuels the next cycle of life.<br />

In between the two points of existence,<br />

we simply learn to accept the storm, and<br />

cooperate with the wind and sun.<br />

So, remove dead matter, learn from your<br />

mistakes and prepare the ground for new<br />

endeavours. With the change in seasons<br />

comes a sequence of opportunities that<br />

can become a gift to nurture resilience<br />

and strength.<br />

A high school teacher, who was an avid<br />

gardener herself, once told me her daily<br />

prayer: “Lord, grant me the serenity to<br />

accept the things I cannot change, courage<br />

to change the things I can, and wisdom to<br />

know the difference.”<br />

For those wondering, my Hindu rope<br />

plant flourished and flowered within three<br />

years, and has continued to multiply<br />

each year since. The more clippings I<br />

share with friends and colleagues, the<br />

more it seems to grow. Six years on, this<br />

overachieving ex-runt thrives on neglect<br />

and boasts ropes of dark glossy leaves<br />

draping to the floor.<br />

And yes, the rumour was true; through<br />

the nights of spring and summer, the pink<br />

flowers of the Hindu rope plant exude a<br />

rich chocolate perfume that comes alive<br />

when the sun goes down.<br />

Now if you’d excuse me, I have some<br />

pruning to do!<br />

Angela Han<br />

Publisher<br />


<strong>May</strong> <strong>2021</strong> | 14

Upfront<br />

#Instagram hashtags to follow<br />

#antiquenecklace<br />

67,821+ POSTS<br />

#artnouveaujewelry<br />

47,130 + POSTS<br />

#baroquepearl<br />

69,371+ POSTS<br />

#citrine<br />


#pinkdiamonds<br />

71,532+ POSTS<br />

#platinumring<br />

63,063+ POSTS<br />

#recycledgold<br />

88,140+ POSTS<br />

#sapphire<br />


Alpha Order<br />

#victorianjewellery<br />

99,688+ POSTS<br />

#watchcollection<br />

790,041+ POSTS<br />


Aurora Australis Opal<br />

4Discovered at Lightning Ridge, NSW in 1938, the 180-carat Aurora<br />

Australis is believed to be the world’s most valuable black opal, with<br />

an estimated value of $1 million. Miner Charlie Dunstan recovered the<br />

gemstone which displays a harlequin pattern and vibrant red, green, and<br />

blue play of colours.<br />

It was sold to opal specialists Altmann + Cherny,<br />

who cut, polished, and renamed it The Aurora<br />

Australis after the ‘southern lights’ – the<br />

southern-hemisphere equivalent to the<br />

Aurora Borealis, or ‘northern lights’.<br />

The opal is on permanent<br />

display at the Altmann + Cherny<br />

showroom in Sydney.<br />

Celebrity Style<br />

4Writer-director Emerald Fennell<br />

(above) attended the virtual British<br />

Academy Film & Television Awards<br />

(BAFTAs) – where her feature Promising<br />

Young Woman won Best British Film –<br />

wearing a selection of green tourmaline<br />

and diamond cocktail rings (inset)<br />

designed by her father, acclaimed<br />

jeweller Theo Fennell.<br />

Image credit: Tiffany & Co. Image credit: Zoe McConnell<br />

Stranger Things<br />

Weird, wacky and wonderful<br />

jewellery news from around the world<br />

A rail honest guy<br />

4A New York train conductor<br />

has been honoured by the<br />

Long Island Rail Road (LIRR)<br />

for discovering and turning in<br />

36 diamond engagement rings,<br />

which had been left on an evening<br />

rush hour train. Valued at<br />

$US107,000, the find is believed to<br />

be one of the LIRR’s most expensive<br />

lost property cases. Thanks to the<br />

conductor’s honesty, the rings were<br />

soon reunited with their owner – a<br />

jeweller who had forgotten them on<br />

his train ride home!<br />

Gift fit for a Khaleesi<br />

4To celebrate the 10th<br />

anniversary of the Game Of<br />

Thrones TV show, Fabergé has<br />

designed a limited-edition<br />

themed version of its iconic Egg<br />

objet d’art, in collaboration with<br />

Thrones costume designer Michele<br />

Clapton. The enamel Egg opens<br />

in three sections and features<br />

18-carat white gold dragons, pink<br />

sapphires, white diamonds, and a<br />

hidden ruby crown.<br />

French luxury<br />

conglomerate<br />

Kering has now<br />

trained 400 staff<br />

in 16 countries to<br />

conduct ‘distance<br />

sales’ using<br />

digital means.<br />

Digital Brainwave<br />

4European luxury brands have begun<br />

to embrace ‘distance sales’ during the<br />

COVID-19 pandemic, with Italian jeweller<br />

Gismondi 1754 revealing it recently sold<br />

a €300,000 10-carat diamond ring via<br />

WhatsApp and video chat.<br />

Massimo Gismondi, CEO Gismondi 1754,<br />

said, “I was on the phone chatting with the<br />

lady who is buying it, and it came up that this<br />

was the dream of a lifetime for her.”<br />

Gismondi assisted the customer to find<br />

the perfect ring via video, which was then<br />

delivered to her home in Switzerland.<br />

Campaign Watch<br />

4Tiffany & Co. has announced<br />

Roseanne ‘Rosé’ Park (above, in the<br />

new Tiffany HardWear campaign), from<br />

girl group Blackpink, as its new global<br />

‘ambassador’. New Zealand-born,<br />

Australian-raised Park said, “I’ve worn<br />

Tiffany jewellery since I was in high<br />

school... I’m very honoured and excited.”<br />

Weapon of choice<br />

4US jewellery brand Amulet By<br />

D has released a ‘self-defence’<br />

collection, with pieces that can be<br />

quickly converted into weapons<br />

such as diamond-studded sterling<br />

silver knuckle dusters and necklaces<br />

with functional whistles and spiked<br />

clasps. Founder Doris Chou Durfee<br />

– who is an experienced martial arts<br />

practitioner – said the designs were<br />

inspired by her experiences as an<br />

Asian-American woman, including<br />

witnessing recent hate crimes<br />

in the US.<br />


Published by Befindan Media Pty Ltd<br />

Locked Bag 26, South Melbourne, VIC 3205 AUSTRALIA | ABN 66 638 077 648 | Phone: +61 3 9696 7200 | Subscriptions & Enquiries: info@jewellermagazine.com<br />

Publisher Angela Han angela.han@jewellermagazine.com • Editor Arabella Roden arabella.roden@jewellermagazine.com • Production Assistant Lauren McKinnon art@befindanmedia.com<br />

Digital Co-ordinator Trish Bucheli-Preece trish@jewellermagazine.com • Advertising Toli Podolak toli.podolak@jewellermagazine.com • Accounts Paul Blewitt finance@befindanmedia.com<br />

Copyright All material appearing in <strong>Jeweller</strong> is subject to copyright. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly forbidden without prior written consent of the publisher. Befindan Media Pty Ltd<br />

strives to report accurately and fairly and it is our policy to correct significant errors of fact and misleading statements in the next available issue. All statements made, although based on information<br />

believed to be reliable and accurate at the time, cannot be guaranteed and no fault or liability can be accepted for error or omission. Any comment relating to subjective opinions should be addressed to<br />

the editor. Advertising The publisher reserves the right to omit or alter any advertisement to comply with Australian law and the advertiser agrees to indemnify the publisher for all damages or liabilities<br />

arising from the published material.<br />

Timesupply<br />

jewellery + watches<br />

p +61 (0)8 8221 5580<br />

sales@timesupply.com.au | timesupply.com.au<br />

exclusive distributor AU & NZ

News<br />

News In Brief<br />

GIA recalls fancy<br />

diamonds<br />

4 The Gemological Institute of America<br />

(GIA) has withdrawn the grading reports<br />

for a number of fancy colour diamonds<br />

analysed between January and June<br />

2020, over concerns an as-yet unidentified<br />

treatment could have gone undetected.<br />

The diamonds in question were issued with<br />

a “green or greenish” colour grade. The<br />

GIA removed the diamonds from its Report<br />

Check service and offered free re-testing.<br />

COVID-19 impacts Indian<br />

diamond industry<br />

4 A second wave of the COVID-19<br />

pandemic in India may lead to polished<br />

diamond shortages, as one in four<br />

workers stay home and companies shift<br />

resources towards higher-value stones,<br />

Rapaport News reports. Diamond<br />

manufacturing in India – where more<br />

than 90 per cent of the world’s diamonds<br />

are cut – has reportedly fallen 30–40 per<br />

cent in recent weeks.<br />

Diamond ring breaks<br />

Aussie auction record<br />

4 Auction house Leonard Joel has<br />

sold the largest and most expensive<br />

diamond ring ever auctioned in<br />

Australia, for $1.125 million. The<br />

platinum ring features a square<br />

emerald-cut 25.02-carat centre stone.<br />

Hamish Sharma, head of Leonard Joel’s<br />

Important Jewels division, said, “If you’re<br />

judging it from a point of view of beauty,<br />

it’s unparalleled.”<br />

Management shuffle<br />

at Seiko<br />

4Shinji Hattori – great-grandson of<br />

Seiko founder Kintaro Hattori – has<br />

stepped down as CEO of Seiko Watch<br />

Corporation (SWC) after 17 years.<br />

Meanwhile, SWC president Shuji<br />

Takahashi has been promoted to<br />

another role within the Seiko group.<br />

Akio Naito – a long-term SWC executive<br />

who has held leadership roles in both<br />

Australia and Japan – has been named<br />

as the new president.<br />

Baume & Mercier releases revamped<br />

Riviera watch collection<br />

The Baume & Mercier Riviera Collection retains the<br />

original’s unusual 12-sided bezel.<br />

Swiss watch brand Baume & Mercier has<br />

launched the latest version of its historic Riviera<br />

timepiece, which was originally released in 1973.<br />

The Riviera was named for the iconic French<br />

coastline, with the unusual design representing<br />

“freedom and renewal” as well as “offbeat<br />

elegance”.<br />

Unveiled during the recent Watches &<br />

Wonders Geneva virtual event, the new<br />

Riviera collection features self-winding models<br />

for men and women in case sizes from 36mm<br />

to 42mm, as well as a model housing the<br />

brand’s signature Baumatic calibre, which<br />

provides a five-day power reserve.<br />

All the timepieces feature the Riviera’s<br />

Casting, refining and fabricated alloys firm<br />

opens Melbourne office<br />

Chemgold has opened a new location in Melbourne<br />

as it celebrates 35 years in the jewellery industry.<br />

Sydney-based casting, refining, and fabricated<br />

alloys firm Chemgold has opened a new location in<br />

Melbourne’s CBD, in order to serve the Victorian<br />

jewellery retail and manufacturing market.<br />

It will offer casting, refining, fabricated alloys,<br />

findings, bullion, mounts, laser engraving and<br />

the full Chemgold design catalogue.<br />

distinctive 12-sided stainless steel bezel,<br />

updated for modern consumers with black,<br />

blue, silver, and grey dials available, as well as<br />

interchangeable rubber strap or steel bracelet.<br />

A statement from Baume & Mercier read, “The<br />

Riviera is making a comeback that strikes a<br />

balance between its roots in avant-garde ‘70s<br />

design and the sport-minded classicism of<br />

today’s watches.<br />

“More than any other, the Riviera collection<br />

demonstrates the expertise of Baume & Mercier<br />

in the field of unusually shaped watches.<br />

Of the original model, the statement said,<br />

“Known for its twelve-sided bezel reflecting the<br />

twelve hours displayed on its dial, this unique<br />

watch left an impression.<br />

“The icon of a nonchalant generation, it<br />

has always carried the Baume & Mercier<br />

fundamentals in its genes: a love of design, a<br />

regard for form, and a desire for boldness.”<br />

The ‘revamped’ Riviera follows other Baume<br />

& Mercier archival revivals, such as the Art<br />

Deco-inspired Hampton Collection, which was<br />

unveiled at the digital Watches & Wonders<br />

Geneva event in 2020.<br />

Darren Sher, director Chemgold, told <strong>Jeweller</strong>,<br />

“We opened in Melbourne primarily to make<br />

our products and services more accessible to<br />

jewellers and retailers in Victoria,” adding that<br />

“existing – and potential – customers have<br />

requested we do this for years”.<br />

“We feel there is an opportunity to offer our<br />

quality products as well as our renowned<br />

personalised service. The planning has been in<br />

the pipeline for many years with the set up taking<br />

place over the last few months,” Sher said.<br />

The Melbourne office will also offer several<br />

unique services, including the ability to collect<br />

stockgauge, solder, findings, and selected bullion.<br />

“Casting will still be based in Sydney, however<br />

customers can collect orders and drop off<br />

masters, waxes, or samples in Melbourne,”<br />

Sher explained.<br />

The new office opens as Chemgold celebrates<br />

its 35th year in the jewellery trade, and is located<br />

in the heart of Melbourne’s ‘jewellery district’,<br />

Collins Street.<br />

Spanish jewellery brand UNOde50 enters<br />

Australian market<br />

Timesupply has inked a deal to distribute Spanish jewellery brand UNOde50, which is known for its distinctive<br />

designs and bold aesthetics. Image credit: UNOde50<br />

Spanish jewellery brand UNOde50 is set<br />

to enter the Australian and New Zealand<br />

market, distributed by Timesupply.<br />

As part of the deal, Timesupply will<br />

take control of UNOde50 distribution<br />

within Australia and New Zealand as<br />

well as operating the local version of the<br />

brand’s website.<br />

Javier Gala, CEO UNOde50, said, “UNOde50<br />

is proud to announce its strategic partnership<br />

with Timesupply to service the Australian and<br />

New Zealand markets.<br />

“Until now, UNOde50 has had a limited<br />

presence in the region. However, we are<br />

confident that our brand’s unique jewellery<br />

designs – timelessly fusing tradition with<br />

modernity and handcrafted quality – have<br />

great potential to appeal to a new group<br />

of consumers.”<br />

Ken Abbott, director Timesupply, told<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong>, “We first became aware of<br />

UNOde50 in 2017 after seeing the brand<br />

in many UK retailers.<br />

“It was very eye-catching and obviously<br />

hugely popular; we considered it would be<br />

a great addition to our stable of brands.”<br />

He added, “UNOde50 has a very unique<br />

design DNA – it is difficult to mistake for any<br />

other brand. It is bold and artistic and will<br />

appeal not only to those who know the brand<br />

from Europe but also to new customers, who<br />

are always looking for something special.<br />

“UNOde50 fits perfectly with Timesupply’s<br />

mission to distribute unique, distinctively<br />

designed jewellery with outstanding<br />

quality and value.”<br />

Founded in Madrid in the 1990s, UNOde50<br />

jewellery is handcrafted in Spain and has an<br />

existing retailer network spanning more than<br />

45 countries.<br />

While its largest market is Spain, followed<br />

by the US, the brand has been pursuing<br />

an expansion strategy to new territories,<br />

including Ireland in November 2020.<br />

“UNOde50 has a very unique design<br />

DNA – it is difficult to mistake for any<br />

other brand. It is bold and artistic and<br />

will appeal not only to those who know<br />

the brand from Europe, but also to<br />

new customers”<br />


Timesupply<br />

Its signature pieces are bracelets, which<br />

account for more than 45 per cent of sales,<br />

followed by necklaces. While known for its<br />

plated silver and leather designs, UNOde50’s<br />

range also incorporates gold plating, natural<br />

gemstones, and pearls.<br />

It takes its name from the limited quantities<br />

of its first jewellery collections – just 50 pieces<br />

and its logo is a padlock, which represents the<br />

‘protection of exclusive jewellery designs’.<br />

In addition to its 500-piece core range,<br />

UNOde50 releases two collections each year;<br />

its most recent release for <strong>2021</strong> is the Glam<br />

Collection, featuring animal motifs and ontrend<br />

gold chains.<br />

Timesupply currently distributes a number<br />

of European brands, including Coeur de<br />

Lion, Nomination, DANSK Copenhagen,<br />

QUDO, and RAS.<br />

17 | <strong>May</strong> <strong>2021</strong>

News<br />

News<br />

Diamond organisation warned over advertising<br />

The National Advertising Division (NAD) – the US<br />

advertising industry’s self-regulation body – has<br />

issued a warning to the Natural Diamond Council<br />

(NDC) following a complaint from lab-created<br />

diamond company Diamond Foundry.<br />

In March, the NDC made its own complaint to the<br />

NAD, challenging descriptions and nomenclature<br />

used in digital marketing for Diamond Foundry and<br />

its subsidiary, jewellery brand Vrai.<br />

LVMH watch and jewellery division records 138 per<br />

cent increase in revenue following Tiffany deal<br />

The warning pertained to advertising that<br />

compared natural mined diamonds with manmade<br />

diamonds – also known as lab-grown, labcreated,<br />

or synthetic diamonds – appearing on<br />

the NDC’s website and in marketing assets made<br />

available to retailers.<br />

Diamond Foundry disputed the NDC’s claim that<br />

natural diamond production generates ‘three<br />

times less carbon emissions’ than lab-created<br />

diamonds – a figure the NDC derived from a report<br />

commissioned and published by its predecessor,<br />

the Diamond Producers Association, in 2019.<br />

In an April 22 statement, the NAD determined that<br />

the NDC’s evidence for the ‘three times less carbon<br />

emissions’ claim was “not sufficiently reliable”<br />

and was “concerned that such claims conveyed<br />

a broader implied message about the overall<br />

environmental benefits of mined diamonds versus<br />

man-made diamonds”.<br />

NAD recommended NDC remove the claim,<br />

alongside online advertising that referred to the<br />

“scarcity of mined diamonds [and] the resale value<br />

of mined diamonds versus man-made diamonds”.<br />

“NAD recommended NDC remove the claim,<br />

alongside online advertising that referred<br />

to the ‘scarcity of mined diamonds [and] the<br />

resale value of mined diamonds versus<br />

man-made diamonds’”<br />

NAD determined that “Diamond Foundry must,<br />

consistent with the Federal Trade Commission (FTC)<br />

Jewelry Guides, make an effective disclosure that its<br />

diamonds are man-made. NAD further found that,<br />

consistent with the FTC Jewelry Guides and the<br />

FTC Dot Com Disclosure publication, the advertiser<br />

should distinguish its LGDs from mined diamonds”.<br />

Formerly known as the Advertising Self-Regulatory<br />

Council (ASRC), NAD is an independent non-profit<br />

that monitors truth and accuracy in advertising.<br />

While not an official regulator, it often refers cases<br />

to the US Government’s Federal Trade Commission.<br />

Frequently, its cases are established based on<br />

challenges from competing businesses.<br />

Tiffany & Co. has contributed to a 138 per cent increase in revenue for LVMH’s Watch & Jewelry division. Pictured:<br />

New Tiffany & Co. celebrity spokesperson Anya Taylor-Joy. Image credit: Nolan Zangas/Tiffany & Co.<br />

In its first financial update for <strong>2021</strong>, French<br />

luxury conglomerate Moët Hennessy Louis<br />

Vuitton (LVMH) has reported revenue of €13.96<br />

billion ($AU21.6 billion), an increase of 32 per<br />

cent compared with the same period last year.<br />

During the first quarter of <strong>2021</strong>, €1.88 billion<br />

($AU2.9 billion) came from LVMH’s Watches<br />

& Jewelry division – up 138 per cent compared<br />

with 2020.<br />

US publication JCK Online reports Guiony as<br />

saying, “Integrating Tiffany is very important to<br />

us... [The company is] a big acquisition for us<br />

[and] our number one priority.”<br />

Guiony added, “It will take years to do what we<br />

want to do with this brand, from a distribution,<br />

merchandising, and marketing viewpoint. It is a<br />

lot of work – we are committed to doing it.”<br />

Innovative timepieces with<br />

components of premium<br />

quality, Classique watches<br />

possess a distinctive and<br />

unmistakable personality.<br />

ClassiqueWatches.com<br />

P 02 9290 2199<br />

Michael Hill International reports positive<br />

sales trends, continues COVID recovery<br />

Despite the COVID-19 pandemic, Michael Hill<br />

International has recorded increased revenue and<br />

same-store sales for the quarter ended 28 March <strong>2021</strong>.<br />

In its latest quarterly financial report for the<br />

trading period ended 28 March <strong>2021</strong>, Michael Hill<br />

International (MHI), has recorded encouraging<br />

results, including a 16.4 per cent increase in samestore<br />

sales and revenue of $118.5 million, up 11.6<br />

per cent compared with the same period last year.<br />

Australia – MHI’s largest market – was a key<br />

driver of revenue, recording sales of $70.3 million,<br />

an increase of nearly 20 per cent. Canada, MHI’s<br />

second-largest market by store count, recorded<br />

revenue of $CAD17 million.<br />

The results were significantly hampered by<br />

temporary store closures due to the COVID-19<br />

pandemic, with 134 of its 288-strong store network<br />

forced to shut their doors.<br />

Daniel Bracken, CEO MHI, said, “I’m delighted by<br />

these results... Considering the ongoing challenges<br />

of navigating COVID-19, particularly in Canada,<br />

this result demonstrates the resilience of the<br />

Michael Hill business and further validates our<br />

transformation to a modern, differentiated, omnichannel<br />

jewellery brand.<br />

“I’ve never been more confident in our leadership<br />

team, and with a clear plan for growth, we are<br />

well-placed for continued strong results despite the<br />

uncertain environment,” he added.<br />

Online sales also continued to climb for the<br />

jewellery chain, with e-commerce accounting for 5.6<br />

per cent of total sales – an increase of 69.2 per cent<br />

from the previous quarter and more than 90 per<br />

cent higher than the same period in 2020.<br />

The increase is largely attributed to the<br />

acquisition of international jewellery company<br />

Tiffany & Co., which was finalised in January.<br />

Tiffany & Co.’s annual revenue – which totalled<br />

$US4.4 billion ($AU6.8 billion) in 2019, the last<br />

financial year for which figures are available<br />

– is approximately equal to that of LVMH’s<br />

existing Watches & Jewelry division, which<br />

includes TAG Heuer, Bulgari, Hublot, Zenith,<br />

Chaumet, and Fred.<br />

A statement published on the LVMH website<br />

noted, “The Watches & Jewelry business<br />

group recorded organic revenue growth of 35<br />

per cent in the first quarter of <strong>2021</strong> compared<br />

to the same period of 2020 and 1 per cent<br />

compared to that of 2019. The quarter marked<br />

the integration for the first time of the iconic<br />

jewelry Maison, Tiffany & Co, which saw an<br />

excellent start to the year.”<br />

The company also noted that while the US and<br />

Asian markets have improved significantly,<br />

Europe remains hampered by temporary store<br />

closures and travel restrictions as a result of<br />

the COVID-19 pandemic.<br />

While LVMH management described Tiffany<br />

& Co.’s Q1 <strong>2021</strong> performance as “excellent”,<br />

its chief financial officer Jean-Jacques Guiony<br />

recently told investors that the company has<br />

“tremendous” potential to expand.<br />

“It will take years to do what we want<br />

to do with this brand [Tiffany & Co.],<br />

from a distribution, merchandising,<br />

and marketing viewpoint. It is a lot of<br />

work – we are committed to doing it”<br />


Möet Hennessy Louis Vuitton (LVMH)<br />

Alexandre Arnault, the 28-year-old son of<br />

LVMH chairman Bernard Arnault and former<br />

CEO of luggage brand Rimowa, was named<br />

Tiffany’s executive vice-president of product<br />

and communications in January..<br />

Barely two months into Arnault’s tenure,<br />

Tiffany & Co. cancelled its New York Times<br />

print-edition ad, which had run on the third<br />

page since 1896. Fashion publication Women’s<br />

Wear Daily reports that Arnault has used<br />

Instagram Stories to ask followers for input<br />

into the future of Tiffany & Co., posting, “What<br />

would you like to see us do at Tiffany?”<br />

The company has also begun utilising a new<br />

group of celebrity spokespeople, including<br />

entertainer Jackson Yee, Roseanne ‘Rosé’<br />

Park, of South Korean girl group Blackpink,<br />

The Queen’s Gambit actress Anya Taylor-Joy<br />

and male model Alton Mason.<br />



Elegance added with personality.<br />

Designs for him and her. Innovative<br />

timepiece with premium quality.<br />

www.ClassiqueWatches.com<br />

P 02 9290 2199<br />

E Sales@samsgroup.com.au<br />

E Sales@samsgroup.com.au<br />

www.samsgroup.com.au<br />


News<br />

US sanctions Myanmar<br />

gemstone company<br />

Nirav Modi extradition approved by<br />

UK government, appeal filed<br />

A spokesperson confirmed Home Secretary Priti<br />

Patel approved the extradition order on 15 April.<br />

Under UK law, the decision can be appealed<br />

within 14 days.<br />

Modi sought permission to appeal both Goozee<br />

and Patel’s decisions in an application received<br />

on 28 April.<br />

Former jewellery mogul Nirav Modi faces life imprisonment<br />

in India if convicted on charges stemming from the $US1.8<br />

billion PNB fraud.<br />

Meanwhile, Indian media report that the extradition<br />

of Modi’s uncle Mehul Choksi, who has also been<br />

charged in relation to the PNB fraud, could be<br />

delayed by more than seven years.<br />




• NEW RANGE<br />

FOR MEN<br />

Australia/New Zealand Distributor<br />


www.pridebrands.com.au<br />

Ph: (03) 6171 8005<br />

sales@pridebrands.com.au<br />

Myanmar (Burma) is the world’s premier source of jade (pictured), as well as highquality<br />

ruby.<br />

The US Department of the Treasury<br />

(USDT) Office of Foreign Assets<br />

Control has formally sanctioned<br />

Myanmar (Burma)’s state-owned<br />

gemstone trading company, Myanmar<br />

Gems Enterprise (MGE).<br />

The move follows a military coup in<br />

the Asian nation which has led to<br />

the deaths of more than 600 civilian<br />

protestors.<br />

According to a statement from the<br />

USDT dated 8 April, the sanctions are<br />

designed to target a “key economic<br />

resource for [the] Burmese military<br />

regime that is violently repressing<br />

pro-democracy protests in the<br />

country and that is responsible for<br />

the ongoing lethal attacks against the<br />

people of Burma”.<br />

MGE is a subdivision of the Myanmar<br />

government’s Ministry of Mines,<br />

which is “responsible for all<br />

functions relating to gemstones”<br />

including licensing, regulations,<br />

collecting royalties, granting permits<br />

to individuals and companies,<br />

and organising gemstone sales<br />

throughout the year.<br />

The new restrictions prohibit US<br />

citizens, US companies, or people<br />

within the US from undertaking<br />

any form of transaction with MGE;<br />

earlier this year, the USDT sanctioned<br />

three other companies it said were<br />

connected to the Myanmar military –<br />

Myanmar Ruby Enterprise, Myanmar<br />

Imperial Jade Co., and Cancri (Gems<br />

and <strong>Jeweller</strong>y) Co.<br />

Andrea Gacki, director, USDT<br />

Office of Foreign Assets Control,<br />

said, “[The new restriction] highlights<br />

Treasury’s commitment to denying the<br />

Burmese military sources of funding,<br />

including from key state-owned<br />

enterprises throughout Burma.”<br />

From 2008 to 2013 the US banned<br />

the importation of Myanmar rubies<br />

and jade under the Tom Lantos Block<br />

Burmese JADE Act; the ban was<br />

extended by President Obama to 2016,<br />

and separate sanctions were imposed<br />

by President Trump two years later.<br />

The coloured gemstone industry<br />

plays a key role in Myanmar’s<br />

economy, with the country supplying<br />

approximately 90 per cent of<br />

the world’s rubies and jade. In<br />

2016-17, the Extractive Industries<br />

Transparency Initiative estimated<br />

that gemstones, pearls, and jade<br />

accounted for 13 per cent of the<br />

country’s natural resource revenue.<br />

While exact figures are unavailable,<br />

a 2017 report published by economic<br />

group the Association of Southeast<br />

Asian Nations (ASEAN) valued the<br />

annual revenue from government<br />

gemstone auctions at $US3.4 billion<br />

($AU4.4 billion).<br />

In addition, much of the gemstone<br />

trade is comprised of clandestine<br />

transactions, usually undertaken<br />

with Thai or Chinese buyers. At the<br />

time of publication, neither Thailand<br />

nor China had imposed sanctions on<br />

Myanmar.<br />

Disgraced jewellery mogul Nirav Modi has had his<br />

extradition to India approved by the UK government’s<br />

Home Office, following more than two years in prison.<br />

Modi, 50, was arrested in London in March 2019<br />

and faces a raft of charges in India related to the<br />

$US1.8 billion ($AU2.3 billion) Punjab National<br />

Bank (PNB) fraud, which is reported to have<br />

occurred between 2011 and 2018.<br />

On 25 February <strong>2021</strong>, Westminster Magistrates<br />

Court District Judge Samuel Goozee ruled in favour<br />

of extradition and dismissed the defence’s claim<br />

that Modi would not receive a fair trial in India and<br />

was facing worsening mental health.<br />

Pandora Jewelry records promising<br />

first-quarter results<br />

Despite widespread store closures, Pandora has<br />

recorded positive revenue and sales results.<br />

Pandora Jewelry has released its Q1 <strong>2021</strong> financial<br />

update, recording revenue of DKK4.5 billion<br />

($AU935 million) amid continued store closures<br />

due to the COVID-19 pandemic.<br />

Revenue was 13 per cent higher than the same<br />

period in 2020, when the company recorded<br />

DKK4.17 billion ($AU867.3 million); sales also<br />

increased by 13 per cent. However, in Q1 2020,<br />

approximately 90 per cent of Pandora stores were<br />

temporarily closed – starting with its Chinese<br />

Choksi has resided in the Caribbean nation of<br />

Antigua and Barbuda since 2017 and claimed<br />

Antiguan citizenship in January 2018.<br />

While it was previously reported that Choksi’s<br />

citizenship had been revoked, a senior official within<br />

the Antiguan government has now clarified that the<br />

case is currently before the country’s High Court.<br />

Lionel Hurst, chief of staff to Antigua and Barbuda<br />

Prime Minister Gaston Browne, told India Today,<br />

“[Choksi] has entered a lawsuit in the High Court of<br />

Antigua and Barbuda. This matter will take about<br />

seven years to be resolved. With enough money to<br />

pursue these legal challenges, 2027 is the earliest<br />

for a final resolution.”<br />

locations from 22 January. The next market to close<br />

stores was Italy on 11 March, closely followed by<br />

France and the US on 14 and 15 March respectively.<br />

By Q1 <strong>2021</strong>, approximately 30 per cent of the<br />

Pandora international store network was<br />

temporarily closed, rising to 35 per cent at the end<br />

of March.<br />

Compared with Q1 2019, when its full store network<br />

was open, the company’s revenue decreased 6.2<br />

per cent and sales declined 3 per cent.<br />

The company estimates a quarter of its network<br />

will be temporarily closed during the first six<br />

months of <strong>2021</strong>, but that these closures will have a<br />

‘limited impact’ in the second half of the year.<br />

An aide de memoire accompanying the Q1 update<br />

noted, “While we haven’t fully turned around, we<br />

clearly see that the brand is turning around.”<br />

The aide de memoire also stated that the Chinese<br />

market would “remain a drag on total revenue<br />

growth in <strong>2021</strong> and that revenue in China for the<br />

year will be well below 2019.”

On The Market<br />

1 2 3<br />

4<br />

5<br />

MAY<br />

Product<br />

Spotlight<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong>’s special<br />

snapshot of the latest<br />

watches to hit the market.<br />

6 7<br />

8<br />

1 REFLEX ACTIVE | Heart & Grace Reflex Active affordable smartwatches don’t compromise on style or functionality. The Series 5 combines a sleek, gold-toned case and generous 1.3-inch display with<br />

premium features. 2 CLASSIQUE | Sams Group Australia Treasure the new Classique Premier Slimline, designed for comfort with elevated style. It is available set with 76 diamonds for an extra touch of<br />

luxury. 3 JAG | Duraflex Group Australia JAG’s new seasonal fashion watch collection offers an affordable range of timeless styles that combine casual appeal with an urban feel. 4 BAUME & MERCIER |<br />

Duraflex Group Australia The Riviera Collection from Baume & Mercier revamps a 1970s icon for men and women. All the timepieces feature the original Riviera’s distinctive 12-sided stainless steel bezel.<br />

5 SEIKO The Seiko Prospex 1959 Alpinist Re-creation brings the iconic 1959 Alpinist back to life in every detail, with the high functionality that characterises the Prospex collection. Available in August <strong>2021</strong>,<br />

limited to 1,959 pieces. 6 AMELIA AUSTIN | Heart & Grace Designed for the stylish woman, the Amelia Austin Bamboo Rose Gold Mesh fitness tracker is a fashion-forward accessory for all occasions.<br />

7 LUMINOX | Duraflex Group Australia Luminox presents the new Bear Grylls Survival Air with three time-zone display, bi-directional bezel, and ultra-durable Carbonox case. 8 MASERATI | West End<br />

Collection The Maserati Sfida 44mm Gold Chronograph watch combines sporty rigour with elegance, featuring a gold-plated stainless steel case, tachymeter bezel, and modern dégradé dial.<br />

Quartz movement, Small steel case<br />

Proudly distributed by<br />

(02) 9417 0177 | www.dgau.com.au<br />


10 Years Ago<br />

Time Machine: <strong>May</strong> 2011<br />

A snapshot of the industry events making headlines this time 10 years ago in <strong>Jeweller</strong>.<br />

Historic Headlines<br />

4 Romance and nature dominate Basel jewellery<br />

4 Tuskc launches e-tail site with a twist<br />

4 Skagen wins Red Dot design award<br />

4 Pandora attributes revenue dip to GFC<br />

4 Sir Richard Branson new face of Bulova<br />

Stores urged to review<br />

insurance cover<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong>y stores are leaving themselves open<br />

to risk by not taking out insurance for ‘business<br />

interruption’, it has emerged.<br />

While standard insurance policies cover material<br />

damage, may do not compensate jewellers for loss<br />

of earnings if they are forced to close their store for<br />

a period of time –even if it is due to circumstances<br />

beyond their control.<br />

Michael Ballinger, senior general adjuster,<br />

Crawford & Company which works with Marsh<br />

Insurance, said, “Most other commercial<br />

businesses recognise the importance of that<br />

coverage. At the end of the day, material damage<br />

is not going to change –it is what it is. But business<br />

interruption can have a long tail to it.”<br />

Financial compensation for the time a store is<br />

closed also allows jewellers to keep valuable<br />

members of staff they would be in danger of losing<br />

if they were unable to pay them for the time the<br />

store is closed.<br />

<strong>May</strong> 2011<br />

ON THE COVER Najo<br />

Editors’ Desk<br />

4I Wish We Had More Beetles!: “‘Sales<br />

101’ taught me there are two ways to<br />

handle an objection – ignore it, or brag<br />

about it. The VW Beetle wasn’t the<br />

most attractive car, was it? In fact, it<br />

was small and ugly – so what did the<br />

marketers do?<br />

They called a spade a spade and<br />

bragged about the objection. The<br />

early VW ad campaigns proudly<br />

announced, ‘Ugly is only skin deep’<br />

and my favourite, ‘It makes your house<br />

look bigger!’ Too often, people see the<br />

lemon and not the lemonade.”<br />


Why Gen Y Likes Silver:<br />

They’re cashed-up, fashion conscious,<br />

and cyber-savvy. Silver appeals to them<br />

because it’s relatively affordable and<br />

offers ever-changing designs, allowing<br />

them to keep up with the trends, drip<br />

with brands, and impress their peers.<br />

Who are they? Generation Y. And they’re<br />

an important customer base for silver<br />

jewellery suppliers and retailers.<br />

Global watch market could be<br />

rocked by Japan traumas<br />

The spate of disasters in Japan could have<br />

ramifications for the global watch industry,<br />

although many Australian distributors are not yet<br />

certain how operations will be affected.<br />

Japanese movements are common in many watch<br />

brands distributed in Australia.<br />

Nils Rasmussen, managing director of Skagen<br />

Denmark distributor Jarass, believes the<br />

Japanese disasters will have widespread<br />

ramifications:“The problem is not that the<br />

factories have been destroyed but that to<br />

manufacture a movement, a consistent 24-houra-day<br />

electricity supply needs to be maintained.”<br />

New lease of life for<br />

men’s jewellery?<br />



Ethical Colombian Emeralds<br />

direct from the mines to you.<br />

Bringing you the highest-grade, ethically-mined<br />

Colombian emeralds straight from the world’s most<br />

recognised mines into your hands.<br />

Dedicated to traceability, quality and reliability, our<br />

emeralds are certified and ready to be set into unique<br />

pieces or purchased as an investment. From uncut<br />

roughs and perfectly cut loose stones<br />

to one-of-a-kind preset jewellery and custom-makes,<br />

Colonial Gemstones is at your service.<br />

Mauro<br />



Independent jewellers<br />

triumph over chain stores<br />

Exemplary customer service and unique designs<br />

have helped three independent jewellery stores<br />

outrank many of Australia’s largest chains in a<br />

vote to find the nation’s ‘favourite jewellery store’.<br />

Love and Hatred and Trilby Phoenix in Sydney as<br />

well as e.g. etal in Melbourne were announced as<br />

finalists in the jewellery store category of Grazia’s<br />

inaugural Shopping Awards, alongside international<br />

giants like Tiffany & Co. and Cartier.<br />

Chains such as Prouds, Angus & Coote, and<br />

Michael Hill were notable by their absence among<br />

the top 10.<br />

Soapbox<br />

4The Real Cost of Valuation: “The days<br />

of over-inflated jewellery valuations<br />

are over – or at least they should be.<br />

But I have come to realise much of the<br />

industry doesn’t realise it.<br />

“In my short year as a valuer I have<br />

valued for trade, almost all of whom<br />

will no longer deal with my company<br />

because my valuations are too ‘low’<br />

and I value diamonds at today’s price<br />

rather than that listed on Rapaport.”<br />

– Giselle McKenna, principal<br />

GeoGem Consulants<br />

A raft of men’s jewellery launches and<br />

increasing interest from retailers at Brisbane’s<br />

March jewellery fair suggests the category<br />

may be about to take off in a big way.<br />

Several new men’s lines made their debut at<br />

the Brisbane fair. Pendants Australia launched<br />

its first men’s line of sterling silver pendants<br />

based on tribal motifs, Cudworth Enterprises<br />

showcased German Brand Cai Men’s, and a<br />

completely new concept called Speed <strong>Jeweller</strong>y<br />

also exhibited at the show.<br />

Cudworth Enterprises director Darren Roberts<br />

said, “We’re seeing a return in the strength of<br />

silver [for men’s jewellery]. It is more prestigious<br />

– there’s an elegance to silver, whereas with<br />

steel it’s a little bit more relaxed.”<br />


+ 6 1 3 437 3 42 8 1 • contact@colonialgemstones.com<br />

25 | <strong>May</strong> <strong>2021</strong><br />


INSIDE<br />

My Store<br />

INSIDE<br />

Now & Then<br />

John Franich <strong>Jeweller</strong>s<br />

AUCKLAND, NZ with John and Jenni Franich, directors • SPACE COMPLETED 2016<br />

Percy Marks<br />

Celebrating 122 Years • SYDNEY, NSW • A moment with Cameron Marks, managing director<br />


1894<br />

Percy Marks, a student at<br />

Sydney Technical College,<br />

is apprenticed to jeweller<br />

Richard (R.H) Jenkins<br />

1899<br />

At the age of 20, Marks<br />

opens his namesake<br />

jewellery store on Market<br />

Street in the Sydney CBD<br />

1907<br />

After developing a<br />

fascination with Australian<br />

‘dark opal’, Marks travels to<br />

the NSW town of Lightning<br />

L to R Percy Marks is escorted by police as he carries jewellery from one store to another; inside the Percy Marks<br />

store at 49 Castlereagh Street in the Sydney CBD.<br />

Ridge to fossick and<br />

purchase the gemstones<br />

Above: Percy ‘The Opal King’ Marks holds the<br />

then-largest ever South Australian opal rough.<br />

4Who is the target market and how did<br />

they influence the store design?<br />

Our target market is everyone who shares<br />

our passion for quality jewellery products and<br />

enjoys purchasing fine and fashion jewellery<br />

from a store that stands apart from the rest.<br />

We offer those traditional core values of a<br />

family-owned business, and our store reflects<br />

that through its bright, open design.<br />

4With the relationship between store<br />

ambience and consumer purchasing in<br />

mind, which features encourage sales?<br />

A great deal of attention, time and care is<br />

taken to create visual marketing that has that<br />

‘X factor’ which both encourages and draws<br />

customers inside for more.<br />

The black-and-white theme runs throughout<br />

the store, and strategic lighting has been<br />

incorporated into the shape of the reflective,<br />

chrome-like ceiling bulkhead. This lighting<br />

provides the shop with a touch of class and<br />

creates a smart and modern, yet timeless look.<br />

4What is the store design’s wow factor?<br />

The ‘wow factor’ is the black-and-white theme,<br />

including the feature carpeting which has a<br />

geometric design reminiscent of diamond<br />

facets. This presents the public with a store that<br />

appears spacious, bright and welcoming, as well<br />

as reflecting the quality and style they<br />

can expect in-store – both in<br />

terms of the jewellery and<br />

the services we offer.<br />

The store presentation<br />

is the start of the<br />

‘wow factor’ we aim<br />

to provide to every<br />

customer.<br />

Percy Marks was established in Sydney<br />

in 1899 and is one of Australia’s most<br />

respected family jewellery businesses,<br />

with four generations of the Marks<br />

family standing behind it.<br />

Its founder, the jewellery designer Percy<br />

Marks, played a singular role in the<br />

acceptance of Australian opal as the<br />

country’s national gemstone.<br />

Percy Marks came from a family of<br />

jewellers, whose origins were in New<br />

Zealand and the UK.<br />

He was enrolled in the Sydney Technical<br />

College as early as 1894 and apprenticed<br />

to the Sydney jeweller Richard (R.H.)<br />

Jenkins of Market Street. Five years<br />

later, Marks opened his first shop on the<br />

same street.<br />

He became a public figure – occasionally<br />

described as ‘The Opal King’ – through his<br />

promotion of what he called ‘dark opal’,<br />

that is, opal with a dark body colour such<br />

as black, grey, blue, or green.<br />

Marks explained in an interview that he<br />

first become aware of ‘dark opal’ in 1900;<br />

however he did not actively work with the<br />

gemstone until 1907 when he went to<br />

Lightning Ridge and returned “with two<br />

suitcases packed with the most glorious<br />

opal I have ever seen in one lot”.<br />

Opal was not a popular gemstone at the<br />

turn of the century and Marks candidly<br />

stated, “My problem was to find a market.”<br />

Promoting it as Australia’s national<br />

gemstone, he discounted the superstition<br />

that opal was unlucky, and made a<br />

collection for public display.<br />

His genius in marketing is perhaps his<br />

greatest legacy to Australia’s jewellery<br />

design history.<br />

Marks designed and distributed opal<br />

jewellery and opal exotica to a roll<br />

call of international visitors and major<br />

and minor aristocracy, as well as<br />

Australian celebrities.<br />

Among those gifted Percy Marks’<br />

opal jewellery were the likes of ballerina<br />

Anna Pavlova and opera singer Dame<br />

Nellie Melba.<br />

One magnificent bracelet – presented<br />

to Alice Rawson, daughter of former<br />

NSW Governor Vice-Admiral Sir Harry<br />

Holdsworth Rawson, in 1909 – was<br />

acquired by Sydney’s Powerhouse<br />

Museum in 2020 and is described as one<br />

of the finest surviving Australian-made<br />

jewellery pieces of the early 20th Century.<br />

By 1935, Australian opal was celebrated<br />

in poetry and dance as well as in jewellery<br />

settings. At his most energetic, it seemed<br />

no Sydney visitor was safe from a Percy<br />

Marks opal presentation!<br />

In 1919, the NSW State Government<br />

commissioned him to inquire into the<br />

marketing of opals in Europe and<br />

North America.<br />

He exhibited his collection at the Foire<br />

Internationale de Lyon and in Paris,<br />

France, and presented collections of rough<br />

and cut opal to eight French museums<br />

and mining schools.<br />

In 1925 the French government appointed<br />

him Officier d’Instruction Publique.<br />

Believing the opal trade was being<br />

1909<br />

As Vice-Regal <strong>Jeweller</strong>,<br />

Percy Marks presents Alice<br />

Rawson – daughter of the<br />

then-NSW Governor – with<br />

a striking bracelet<br />

1919<br />

With his reputation as<br />

‘The Opal King’ cemented,<br />

Marks is tasked by the<br />

NSW government to<br />

promote Australian<br />

opals in Europe and<br />

North America<br />

1935<br />

Percy Marks passes away<br />

and his sons Percy Jr and<br />

Rolf take over the business<br />

1973<br />

The jewellery store moves<br />

to make way for the MLC<br />

Centre and in the ensuing<br />

17 years, several more<br />

locations are opened and<br />

closed in the Sydney CBD<br />

1990<br />

The remaining Percy<br />

Marks store moves to<br />

Elizabeth Street<br />

2002<br />

Cameron Marks, Percy<br />

Marks’ great-grandson,<br />

takes over the business<br />

as managing director<br />

2019<br />

The Percy Marks business<br />

celebrates its 120th<br />

anniversary with a<br />

special collection<br />

2020<br />

The Alice Rawson bracelet<br />

is identified after 111<br />

years in the possession<br />

of a British family, and<br />

purchased by Sydney’s<br />

Powerhouse Museum<br />

hampered by miners demanding<br />

excessive prices, he suggested in his<br />

report that a small advisory board be<br />

appointed by the government to protect<br />

and harmonise the respective interests<br />

of miners, jewellers and the public.<br />

Toward the end of his life, Marks<br />

seemed to sense his mortality and the<br />

jeweller’s munificence grew.<br />

In 1933, he proposed to make a white<br />

marble, opal-set monument as a gift for<br />

the Prime Minister to accept on behalf<br />

of the Commonwealth.<br />

However, the monument proposal’s fate<br />

is unknown, and he died two years later.<br />

Ultimately, Percy Marks’ opal campaign<br />

was wildly successful. The prominence<br />

that he gave opal was embraced and<br />

extended by other jewellers.<br />

Today, the Percy Marks jewellery<br />

business is run by myself, Cameron<br />

Marks, Percy’s great-grandson.<br />

Our expertise extends from being<br />

the first purveyor of Australian<br />

black opals to all the rare and<br />

magnificent gems that are unique<br />

to Australia – from lustrous South<br />

Sea pearls to the rare and most<br />

highly-prized Argyle pink diamonds.<br />

Percy Marks collections feature an<br />

extensive range of gemstones and<br />

fully certified diamonds, each<br />

individually selected for their<br />

outstanding beauty and quality.<br />

Read the full length interview<br />

on <strong>Jeweller</strong>magazine.com<br />

27 | <strong>May</strong> <strong>2021</strong><br />

<strong>May</strong> <strong>2021</strong> | 28

REVIEW<br />

Gems<br />

Behind every gemstone,<br />

there is a fascinating story<br />

waiting to delight clients<br />

around the world. Studying<br />

with GAA brings the<br />

expertise, networking and<br />

confidence to build a solid<br />

career in a multimilliondollar<br />

industry. Joining<br />

one of the most supportive<br />

and passionate professional<br />

communities of gemmologists<br />

in Australia was one of the<br />

best decision I ever made.<br />

Gina Barreto FGAA DipDT<br />

Gemmologist and Diamond Technologist<br />

Be<br />

Diamond<br />

Courses<br />

Confident<br />

Passionately educating the industry, gem enthusiasts<br />

and consumers about gemstones<br />

Practical Diamond Grading<br />

Advanced Practical Diamond Grading<br />

Diploma in Diamond Technology<br />

Enrolments now open<br />

For more information<br />

1300 436 338<br />

learn@gem.org.au<br />

www.gem.org.au<br />

Gem-Ed Australia<br />


The magic of moonstone<br />

The aptly named moonstone has been<br />

associated with the moon across various<br />

cultures throughout history. In Hindu<br />

mythology, moonstone is believed to be made<br />

of solidified moonbeams.<br />

This gemstone has the ability to interact<br />

with light in such a way that it resembles<br />

moonlight shining across the ocean or<br />

through a veil of clouds. Historically,<br />

legends tell of moonstone bringing its<br />

wearer good luck.<br />

The captivating gem is generally semitransparent<br />

to translucent, displaying a<br />

milky, silvery white sheen through to the<br />

more desirable blue sheen.<br />

This blue, in a more transparent stone, is<br />

the most valuable, sought-after, and difficult<br />

to source form of moonstone. Other colours<br />

include beige, brown, yellow, reddishbrown,<br />

greenish, orange, and grey.<br />

Moonstone is generally readily available,<br />

including the cat’s eye (chatoyant) variety,<br />

but is scarcer in higher quality material and<br />

larger sizes.<br />

An interesting and characteristic feature<br />

that may be found in these specimens is an<br />

inclusion called centipedes – long, minute<br />

tension cracks with shorter perpendicular<br />

cracks overlapping.<br />

Moonstone is a member of the feldspar<br />

mineral group, specifically being composed<br />

of two feldspars – orthoclase and albite.<br />

These two varieties grow parallel to each<br />

other within the stone, causing light to<br />

scatter and reflect off the multiple layers<br />

producing the silvery white phenomenon<br />

known as ‘adularescence’ or ‘schiller’.<br />

When these layers of orthoclase and albite<br />

are thinner and consistently spaced, the<br />

adularescence effect is progressively bluer.<br />

This adularescence gives moonstone its<br />

prized ‘glowing’ appearance, which rolls<br />

over the stone as you move it and change<br />

the angle of view. This makes it ideal for a<br />

cabochon cut – particularly with dimensions<br />

uniform and not too flat – as this enhances<br />

and highlights this sheen.<br />

The word adularescence comes from the<br />

gemstone’s original name, ‘adularia’, after<br />

Mount Adular in Switzerland where the first<br />

high-quality material was found.<br />

Today, gem-quality moonstone is found<br />

in locations including Madagascar and<br />

Tanzania, with the finest in Sri Lanka,<br />

southern India, and Myanmar (Burma) in<br />

limited supply.<br />

When cut correctly en cabochon, this multitalented<br />

stone may also exhibit chatoyancy,<br />

including asterism, with a four-rayed<br />

star caused by the same layered feldspar<br />

structure that causes the adularescence.<br />

Other cutting techniques include faceting,<br />

which offers increased brilliance, and<br />

carving, such as a face representing the<br />

‘man-in-the-moon’.<br />

With a hardness of 6–6.5 on Mohs’ scale,<br />

and cleavage – a plane of weakness – in<br />

two directions, this gem is better suited to<br />

L to R: Anna Hu brooch; Fred Leighton necklace; Neha Dani bracelet<br />

Below: Mvee ring; Nicole Mera ring<br />

Moonstone<br />

Named for its<br />

moonlight-esque<br />

sheen; originally named<br />

adularia for Mount<br />

Adular in Switzerland<br />

Colour: Blue, green,<br />

white, yellow, pink,<br />

purple, orange, grey,<br />

and brown<br />

Found in: Sri Lanka,<br />

India, Madagascar,<br />

Tanzania, Myanmar<br />

Mohs Hardness: 6–6.5<br />

Class: Feldspar<br />

Lustre: Vitreous<br />

pendants, earrings, and brooches rather<br />

than rings.<br />

To care for moonstone, it’s best to steer<br />

clear of ultrasonics and steam cleaners<br />

and opt for warm soapy water instead. It is<br />

susceptible to damage when exposed to a<br />

sudden shift in temperature, high heat, or<br />

hydrofluoric acid.<br />

This gemstone was a popular choice among<br />

jewellery artisans of the Art Nouveau era,<br />

including Louis Comfort Tiffany and René<br />

Lalique. The stone can be found featured<br />

in notable works such as special, singular<br />

commission carvings by Fabergé and<br />

oriental-inspired Art Deco clocks by Cartier.<br />

Like many gemstones, imitants are available<br />

on the market, either intentionally designed<br />

to fool or coincidentally resembling<br />

moonstone. Some of these include synthetic<br />

white spinel heat-treated to give the<br />

adularescence effect, opalescent glass,<br />

chalcedony with a milky consistency, and<br />

even heat-treated amethyst.<br />

To this day, this beautiful gemstone<br />

offers jewellery design with the same<br />

romanticism and mysticism we associate<br />

with moonlight.<br />

Mikaelah Egan FGAA Dip DT<br />

began her career in 2015 with an<br />

independent manufacturing jeweller.<br />

She now balances her role as a<br />

gemmologist and design consultant<br />

at Vault Valuations in Brisbane with<br />

pursuing studies in geology. Visit<br />

instagram.com/mikaelah.egan<br />

<strong>May</strong> <strong>2021</strong> | 30


Casting and Refining<br />



Precious Metal<br />

Trends<br />

The process of casting and refining may be<br />

restricted by the laws of physics, but that<br />

doesn’t mean innovation is impossible.<br />

New technologies are opening up new<br />

possibilities, writes CALLUM GLENNEN.<br />

Molten gold is poured. Image: SHUTTERSTOCK<br />

T<br />

he COVID-19 pandemic has disrupted<br />

countless industries, but consumer interest<br />

in jewellery has fared surprisingly well.<br />

Data from Retail Edge Consultants released late<br />

last year revealed November sales figures across<br />

the jewellery industry were as much as 20 per cent<br />

higher than what was seen during the same period<br />

in 2019.<br />

Unable to travel, a significant portion of the public’s<br />

discretionary spending appears to have shifted towards<br />

luxury goods; and with Australia still months – if not a full<br />

year – away from fully resuming international travel, this<br />

increased interest in luxury purchases could be expected<br />

to continue for some time.<br />

To fully capitalise on this, casters and refiners are<br />

developing new services and systems to be even more<br />

responsive to the needs of jewellers.<br />

Chris Botha, operations manager at Palloys – part of the<br />

Pallion Group of companies – says, “Palloys has extensively<br />

increased its casting and refining capacity to handle the<br />

additional volume in the past year, and has also doubled<br />

its CAD and CAM printing capability to better manage the<br />

increased demand and casting capacity.”<br />

Richard Hayes, CEO The Perth Mint – which refines the<br />

majority of the gold produced in Australia – has noted<br />

similar trends, “The vast bulk of Australian gold producers<br />

continue to entrust their refining needs to The Perth Mint.<br />

“Additional refining and casting capacity has been<br />

commissioned over the last 12 months.”<br />

With the increased demand from customers, combined<br />

with unpredictable metal prices, making use of every<br />

resource available will be crucial for making the most<br />

of current opportunities.<br />

The gold standard<br />

A sudden jump in the price of precious metals has<br />

made every piece of scrap, lemel, and sweep all the<br />

more valuable, highlighting the value of efficient casting<br />

and refining.<br />

“The combination of precious metal prices and COVID-<br />

19’s effects on business, particularly within the jewellery<br />

industry, has significantly increased the demand for<br />

Palloys’ refining services,” Botha tells <strong>Jeweller</strong>.<br />

“Palloys refining jobs and scrap metal buyback numbers<br />

have increased over the past six months. As a result,<br />

Palloys now offers very competitive pricing and faster<br />

turnarounds.”<br />

He adds, “Our sister company, ABC Refinery, completes<br />

all Palloys metals and refining services. In this way, from<br />

our casting alloys to our fabricated metal supply Palloys is<br />

the only jewellery manufacturer that can trace its precious<br />

52%<br />

increase in<br />

consumer demand<br />

for gold in the three<br />

months to 31 March<br />

World Gold Council<br />

17%<br />

forecast increase<br />

in platinum supply<br />

in <strong>2021</strong><br />

World Platinum<br />

Investment Council<br />

184tn<br />

forecast demand<br />

for silver jewellery<br />

in <strong>2021</strong>, an<br />

increase of 24%<br />

Metals Focus and The Silver<br />

Institute, ‘World Silver<br />

Survey <strong>2021</strong>’<br />

95.6%<br />

increase in<br />

palladium price<br />

per ounce in US<br />

dollars, March<br />

2020 to April <strong>2021</strong><br />

MacroTrends.net<br />

$20.55<br />

average silver<br />

price per ounce<br />

in US dollars,<br />

2020 – a sevenyear<br />

high<br />

Metals Focus and The<br />

Silver Institute, ‘World<br />

Silver Survey <strong>2021</strong>’<br />

metals supply directly to its primary source.”<br />

Thanks to commodities being viewed as a safe store<br />

of wealth during uncertain times, the price of gold<br />

skyrocketed in 2020. After a record-breaking peak of over<br />

$US2,000 per ounce in August, its price has since fallen by<br />

approximately 15 per cent.<br />

Hayes explains, “Precious metals have risen in price<br />

over the last 18 months due to a range of global macroeconomic<br />

factors and geopolitical issues.<br />

“These include massive amounts of fiscal stimulus<br />

– especially by the US government – inverted and/or<br />

historically low bond yields and interest rates, Chinese<br />

territorial and economic expansionism, and COVID-19.”<br />

He adds, “The world has become a less certain place and<br />

investors have sought to manage their risk and exposure<br />

to more traditional asset classes, by diverting investment<br />

flows into precious metals.<br />

A sudden jump in the price of<br />

precious metals has made every<br />

piece of scrap, lemel, and sweep all<br />

the more valuable, highlighting the<br />

value of efficient casting and refining<br />

“The rises in precious metals prices over the last 18<br />

months have sparked renewed interest in precious metals<br />

as a store of wealth and a vehicle for wealth management<br />

for investors large and small.”<br />

While still well above pre-pandemic levels, the sudden<br />

changes in direction have had a substantial effect on<br />

gold’s availability, which will impact supply for the<br />

foreseeable future.<br />

“Currently, we are experiencing gold, and other precious<br />

metals, showing extreme highs followed by price<br />

contractions within a relatively short period of time,” Peter<br />

Beck, director Peter W Beck – which includes a Precious<br />

Metal Services division – told <strong>Jeweller</strong>.<br />

“As a result, refiners are feeling the expected impacts<br />

of the price of gold both rising and falling. This in turn<br />

is having an effect on the supply and demand of<br />

precious metals.”<br />

Hayes observes, “The increase in the gold price has made<br />

marginal gold deposits viable, which has increased refining<br />

volumes globally.”<br />

Likewise, silver has also recorded a remarkable surge;<br />

its price increased 137 per cent during 2020, compared<br />

with gold’s 38 per cent. According to international<br />

industry association The Silver Institute, the precious<br />

metal is expected to hit its highest level of demand in<br />

six years in <strong>2021</strong>.<br />

31 | <strong>May</strong> <strong>2021</strong><br />

<strong>May</strong> <strong>2021</strong> | 32


Silver’s supply is also<br />

expected to increase,<br />

however growing<br />

demand from investors<br />

is expected to push its<br />

price higher”<br />

Left: ABC Bullion<br />

As restrictions on production – due to COVID-19 – are<br />

gradually removed, silver’s supply is also expected to<br />

increase, however growing demand from investors is<br />

expected to push its price higher.<br />

Other precious metals are also being affected.<br />

According to Platinum Guild International, US platinum<br />

unit sales saw a 14 per cent increase in Q4 2020,<br />

compared with Q4 2019.<br />

Likewise, China saw a 14 per cent increase of platinum<br />

jewellery fabrication over the previous year for the same<br />

period. A global oversupply of the metal, largely due<br />

to the decline of car manufacturing, has also kept its<br />

prices low.<br />

Platinum’s higher margins – and the ability to drive<br />

incremental sales for jewellers – makes platinum<br />

products an effective value-add for many retailers.<br />

US platinum unit sales saw a 14<br />

per cent increase in Q4 2020,<br />

compared with Q4 2019. Likewise,<br />

China saw a 14 per cent increase<br />

of platinum jewellery fabrication<br />

over the previous year”<br />

Palladium, on the other hand, has skyrocketed in price,<br />

nearly doubling from its March 2020 low, owing to its<br />

application in reducing the carbon emissions of fossil<br />

fuel engines.<br />

Post-COVID, as the market begins to become more<br />

predictable, some in the industry are beginning to see a<br />

return to normalcy.<br />

According to Darren Sher, director Chemgold, demand<br />

for refining services is beginning to stabilise.<br />

“Whilst there was a huge spike at the beginning of the<br />

pandemic and overall increased demand for majority of<br />

2020, we have found that the demand has stabilised in<br />

the last three to six months,” Sher said.<br />

“We have found an increasing amount of our clients<br />

are after their return as fabricated alloys or Chemgoldbranded<br />

bullion.”<br />


Notable Trends<br />

We’re experiencing gold<br />

and other precious metals<br />

showing extreme highs<br />

followed by price contractions<br />

within a relatively short<br />

period of time”<br />

Peter Beck<br />

Peter W Beck<br />

The combination of<br />

precious metal prices<br />

and COVID-19’s effects<br />

on business, particularly<br />

within the jewellery<br />

industry, has significantly<br />

increased the demand for<br />

Palloys’ refining services”<br />

Chris Botha<br />

Palloys<br />

Whilst there was a huge<br />

spike at the beginning of<br />

the pandemic and overall<br />

increased demand for<br />

majority of 2020, we have<br />

found that the demand<br />

has stabilised in the last<br />

three to six months”<br />

Darren Sher<br />

Chemgold<br />

Additionally, this highly uncertain environment has<br />

shown the importance of recovering as much waste<br />

as possible. Adam Van Sambeek, treasury manager<br />

Morris & Watson, said this is critical even during the<br />

best of times.<br />

“[Morris & Watson] not having a minimum refining<br />

quantity removes a barrier for the need for frequent<br />

turnover of precious waste. Customers tend to regularly<br />

recycle their lemel and waste back into cash or reusable<br />

semi-fabricated metal, partially offsetting metal cost in a<br />

rising market,” he explains.<br />

At Pallion, Botha says, “ABC Refinery is Australia’s only<br />

independent London Bullion Market Association (LBMA),<br />

Shanghai Gold Exchange (SGE) and COMEX [part of the<br />

New York Commodity Exchange]-accredited refinery.<br />

“Our ABC Refinery accreditations and reputation of a<br />

high-quality service has enabled us to increase our<br />

market share to 30 per cent of gold and 70 per cent for<br />

silver in the Australian market.<br />

“We are now refining 100 tonnes of gold and more than<br />

500 tonnes of silver per annum.”<br />

As the major refiner for Australian mines, The Perth Mint<br />

is the only refinery to be fully accredited for both gold<br />

and silver with the LBMA, and is also accredited by SGE,<br />

COMEX, the Tokyo Commodity Exchange (TOCOM) and<br />

Dubai Multi Commodities Centre (DMCC).<br />

Old science, new technology<br />

Whatever new demands are placed on the industry, there<br />

are some factors that are simply impossible to change.<br />

Says Hayes, “While a number of ‘new’ refining<br />

technologies marketed today show good promise, there<br />

still remain drawbacks.<br />

“For example, one such process is unable to remove<br />

copper from ore, necessitating a secondary refining<br />

process, negating some environmental benefit claims.<br />

However, some of these technologies will undoubtedly<br />

evolve into sustainable future solutions.”<br />

Beck explains, “Gold, silver, platinum and palladium<br />

refining, and the techniques used revolve around<br />

electrowinning and chemistry. Electrowinning and its<br />

behaviour are governed by the laws of physics, chemistry<br />

is likewise governed by the laws of chemistry.”<br />

33 | <strong>May</strong> <strong>2021</strong>


www.morrisandwatson.com<br />

NEW ZEALAND | 0800 500 654<br />

AUSTRALIA | 1800 469 088<br />



Top Tech<br />

L to R: ABC Bullion; Peter W Beck<br />

ABC Refinery is<br />

the benchmark in<br />

Australian ecofriendly<br />

refining.<br />

In <strong>2021</strong>, it invested in<br />

an additional 175kg<br />

acidless separation<br />

refining technology<br />

to service the valueadded<br />

demand”<br />

Chemgold<br />

While electrowinning – the process of separating<br />

metals from impurities – may not have drastically<br />

changed from its discovery in the 1800s, there are<br />

new efficiencies to be had.<br />

“Efficiencies can be gained by good material<br />

management and procedural management,” Beck<br />

adds. “The art of a refiner is to take the timeless<br />

principles of electrowinning and chemistry and by<br />

using the best equipment and practices, to make<br />

the process as efficient as possible.”<br />

There are some exciting developments in this<br />

space. Van Sambeek said Morris & Watson has<br />

invested in more environmentally friendly<br />

processes in order to recover 80 per cent of<br />

the nitric acid from the fume stream before it<br />

reaches the chemical scrubbers.<br />

“This dramatically reduces the workload on<br />

scrubbers, eliminating potential environmental<br />

contaminates and recovers acid that can now be<br />

recycled,” Van Sambeek said.<br />

“We are expanding the use of this technology to<br />

recycle even more chemicals.<br />

“We’ve also invested in a state-of-the-art furnace<br />

for burning sweeps. This world leading furnace<br />

technology results in a cleaner more efficient<br />

use of energy.”<br />

Van Sambeek said these solutions are economically<br />

responsible – both financially prudent and better for<br />

the environment.<br />

“Over the past two years we’ve been upgrading our<br />

refining facility with the latest European technology.<br />

“There are improved processes, reducing<br />

handling of harmful chemicals and a much cleaner<br />

and efficient output. It’s safer for staff and the<br />

environment,” he said.<br />

Meanwhile, Botha says, “ABC Refinery is the largest<br />

independent precious metals refining facility in<br />

Australasia. ABC Refinery is the benchmark in<br />

Australian eco-friendly refining.<br />

“In <strong>2021</strong>, it invested in an additional 175kg acidless<br />

separation (ALS) refining technology to service the<br />

value-added demand.”<br />

He added, “ALS is the world’s most environmentally<br />

safe refining technology and produces no noxious<br />

residue. ABC Refinery is the only Australian<br />

refinery that employs this technology.”<br />

In addition, ABC Refinery’s technology is – uniquely<br />

– accredited by the National Association of<br />

Testing Authorities, International Organization for<br />

Standardization, Commission Électrotechnique<br />

Internationale, Australian Standards and<br />

International Laboratory Accreditation Cooperation.<br />

The Perth Mint has also made strides in<br />

its environmental policy, appointing a chief<br />

sustainability officer and “actively participating” in<br />

the West Australian government’s “carbon neutral<br />

future” strategy.<br />

Technology breakthroughs<br />

in the field of casting are<br />

creating new opportunities<br />

for jewellers, including designs<br />

previously thought to be<br />

impossible”<br />

In addition, Hayes says, “Capital investment at the<br />

Mint’s refinery has amounted to $36 million over<br />

the past 10 years, with $17 million of this being<br />

invested over the last four years.<br />

“Spend has been spread across new equipment,<br />

increased capacity and improved environmental<br />

management.”<br />

He adds, “A new assay laboratory was<br />

commissioned a few years ago, equipped with the<br />

latest state of the art equipment and technology<br />

to ensure its assays and return of metal to<br />

customers is of the highest accuracy.<br />

Additionally, “Automation is regularly adopted<br />

to ensure repetitive or potentially dangerous<br />

tasks are performed by machines, minimising or<br />

eliminating the risk of injury to employees.”<br />

Beyond the human hand<br />

From the design side of jewellery production,<br />

technology breakthroughs in the field of casting<br />

are creating new opportunities for jewellers,<br />

including designs previously thought to be<br />

impossible.<br />

This is being driven by improvements in 3D<br />

printing; a technology that has had a dramatic<br />

effect on the industry over the past 10 years. The<br />

fall in cost of the average 3D printer, alongside<br />

the increasing detail now possible in prints, is<br />

leading to significant achievements.<br />

One example is the ‘arms race’ in breaking the<br />

world record for the most diamonds set in a ring.<br />

Hallmark <strong>Jeweller</strong>s, based in Hyderabad, India,<br />

unveiled ‘The Divine’ in September last year,<br />

which features 7,801 set diamonds, arranged<br />

in a flower design.<br />

However, they did not hold on to the record<br />

very long, with Renani Jewels, from Meerut,<br />

India, displaying ‘Marigold’ just a few months<br />

later, set with 12,638 diamonds – demolishing<br />

the previous record.<br />

These feats have been possible largely thanks<br />

to advances in 3D printing. Imaginarium, an<br />

Indian 3D printing service, played a critical role<br />

in creating the mould from which ‘The Divine’<br />

was cast.<br />

The company is working to push the limits of<br />

what can be achieved in casting, and producing<br />

moulds that would be impossible to do by hand.<br />

“The sheer amount of design freedom that 3D<br />

printing brings with it is incredible, so much<br />

that complexity of a design is no longer a factor<br />

in manufacturing,” Kamlesh Parekh, founder<br />

Imaginarium, recently wrote.<br />

“Designers now have options to experiment<br />

with abstract patterns and shapes that make for<br />

visually striking pieces of jewellery.<br />

“If a designer can produce it on a computer, the<br />

3D printer will print it, no questions asked.”<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong>s closer to home can take advantage of<br />

more practical and realistic benefits offered by<br />

3D printing, with several casting houses offering<br />

the service.<br />

In October last year Palloys, AGS, PJW, Regentco<br />

Chris Botha<br />

Palloys<br />

[The Perth Mint’s<br />

assay laboratory is<br />

equipped with] the<br />

latest state of the<br />

art equipment and<br />

technology to ensure<br />

its assays and return<br />

of metal to customers<br />

is of the highest<br />

accuracy”<br />

Richard Hayes<br />

The Perth Mint<br />

Over the past two<br />

years we’ve been<br />

upgrading our<br />

refining facility with<br />

the latest European<br />

technology...<br />

It’s safer for staff and<br />

the environment”<br />

Adam Van<br />

Sambeek<br />

Morris & Watson<br />

The sheer amount<br />

of design freedom<br />

that 3D printing<br />

[casting moulds]<br />

brings with it is<br />

incredible, so much<br />

that complexity<br />

of a design is no<br />

longer a factor in<br />

manufacturing”<br />

Kamlesh<br />

Parekh<br />

Imaginarium<br />

and A&E Metals – all part of the Pallion<br />

group of companies – launched a new all in<br />

one platform that allows jewellers to place<br />

customised 3D print orders.<br />

The platform, which took two years to design<br />

and implement, allows jewellers to upload<br />

a CAD file and receive an instant quote for<br />

a finished piece, including everything from<br />

print to mould, casting and finishing.<br />

“The instant quoting for CAD files, casting<br />

from their own mould library, fabricated<br />

metals and diamonds allows jewellers to<br />

enjoy accurate and instant quotes they<br />

can pass onto their customers, giving the<br />

jewellers an instant competitive advantage,”<br />

Alison Habbal, assistant operations manager<br />

– jewellery at Palloys told <strong>Jeweller</strong> at<br />

the time.<br />

Botha adds, “Palloys.com is significantly<br />

outperforming the previous website and has<br />

already exceeded expectations within the<br />

business and industry.<br />

“Palloys’ customers can now order a<br />

customised piece, including certified<br />

diamonds, online and receive them as a<br />

raw cast, semi-finished or fully finished.<br />

“We also offer desprue and tumble options<br />

for castings which have been very popular<br />

since launching the website.<br />

We have seen online orders for the jewellery<br />

division more than double in the new year as<br />

more people adopt the platform.”<br />

Elsewhere, Botha notes that the Palloys<br />

research and development department has<br />

also been working on “direct metal printing<br />

for the bullion and jewellery sector, and<br />

adding subtractive prototyping back into our<br />

manufacturing processes.”<br />

Unstable metal prices have emphasised<br />

the important of efficient and effective<br />

refining, and new technologies are allowing<br />

jewellers to customise pieces to a level that<br />

was previously impossible. Both of these<br />

developments will be important to meet the<br />

needs of customers in <strong>2021</strong> and beyond.<br />

3D Print<br />

& Cast in<br />

Four Days<br />

*STL file(s) must be received by 12pm AEST. Lead time excludes other<br />

casting services and shipping.<br />

More Than Four Decades of Casting<br />

Experience With Service You Can Trust<br />

*<br />

35 | <strong>May</strong> <strong>2021</strong><br />

Refining | Bullion | Fabrication | CAD/CAM | Casting | Chain


Local Talent<br />


Chrysoprase Earrings<br />


Green and Blue Green<br />

Tourmaline Dress Ring<br />


Leaf Pendant<br />

Metal: Yellow Gold<br />

Barrie Lander<br />

Busselton, WA<br />

Metal: 18-carat rose gold<br />

Gemstones: Chrysoprase,<br />

black opal<br />

Fealofani Elisara<br />

Sydney, NSW<br />

Metals: 9-carat and<br />

rhodium-plated<br />

18-carat white gold<br />

Gemstones: Bicolour<br />

tourmaline, bluegreen<br />

sapphire,<br />

demantoid garnet<br />

Carla Maxine Germann<br />

Noosa, QLD<br />

ARCHER &<br />


Pearl & Diamond<br />

Pendant<br />

Metals: 18-carat white<br />

and yellow gold<br />

Gemstones: South<br />

Sea pearl, diamond<br />

William Holland<br />

Whiting<br />

Adelaide, SA<br />



DESIGN<br />

Dentritic Agate<br />

Pendant<br />

Metal: 9-carat<br />

yellow gold<br />

Gemstone:<br />

Dentritic agate<br />

Anna Seelye<br />

Hamilton, NZ<br />


The Island Sculpture<br />

Metal: Sterling silver,<br />

24-carat gold<br />

Gemstones: Paua<br />

shell, Motherof-pearl<br />

Other: Marble,<br />

travertine,<br />

pumice<br />

stone<br />

Paul Amey<br />

Noosa<br />

Heads, QLD<br />


BLING<br />

La Sirene Earrings<br />

Metal: Yellow gold<br />

Gemstones: Garnet,<br />

amethyst, freshwater<br />

pearl, enamel.<br />

Olivia Cummings<br />

Melbourne, VIC<br />



Mauresque Cuff<br />

Metal: 18-carat yellow gold<br />

Natalie Barney<br />

Sydney, NSW<br />

Australia and New Zealand are not only home to some of the<br />

rarest gemstones in the world, but also the most talented jewellers.<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong> showcases a tapestry of local masterpieces that have been<br />

meticulously crafted with great artisanship, right here on home soil<br />


Puzzle Rings<br />

Metal: 9-carat white and yellow gold<br />

Gemstones: Sapphire, amethyst<br />

Maria Stavreas<br />

Canberra, ACT<br />


Rose Bud Drop Earrings<br />

Metals: 18-carat white<br />

and yellow gold<br />

Gemstones: White<br />

diamond, pink sapphire,<br />

ruby, tsavorite garnet<br />

Alice Herald<br />

Wanaka, NZ<br />



Diamond Ring<br />

Metals: Platinum,<br />

rose gold<br />

Gemstones: White and<br />

pink diamond<br />

Ben Tracy<br />

Gold Coast, QLD<br />


White Bee Ring & Riverbed Ring<br />

Metals: (Left) palladium; (right)<br />

palladium, 18-carat yellow gold<br />

Gemstones: (Left) blue sapphire,<br />

white and green diamond; (right)<br />

yellow sapphire, white diamond<br />

Eva Martin<br />

Sunshine Coast, QLD<br />

37 | <strong>May</strong> <strong>2021</strong> <strong>May</strong> <strong>2021</strong> | 38


Watch Industry Review<br />

WATCH INDUSTRY REVIEW | Watching the Clock<br />


Show Data<br />

38<br />


the CLOCK<br />

The hybrid Watches & Wonders trade event – presented digitally<br />

in Geneva followed by a physical Shanghai show – has rekindled<br />

optimism for the Swiss watch industry, reports MARTIN FOSTER.<br />


Far right: Baume & Mercier.<br />

Below: A Lange & Söhne movement<br />

In 2020, the COVID-19 pandemic focused the<br />

world’s attention on large trade fair gatherings,<br />

declaring them off-limits for health and safety<br />

reasons. Yet even before this, what those within the<br />

watch industry regarded as ‘normal’ was already<br />

facing considerable challenge.<br />

As we know, the previous annual cycle of trade fairs –<br />

Baselworld, the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie<br />

(SIHH), Inhorgenta Münich, the Hong Kong Watch & Clock<br />

Fair, et al – was already in disarray, primarily related to<br />

uncontained costs.<br />

The history of defections from Baselworld and, to a lesser<br />

extent, SIHH reached a crisis point two years ago, and was<br />

a result of ever-higher exhibitor costs and fair management<br />

intransigence.<br />

The history of the decaying Swiss industry loyalty is<br />

well chronicled and does not need further exposure or<br />

examination, but it has informed the current state of affairs.<br />

In late 2019, SIHH was re-branded as Watches & Wonders<br />

(W&W) Geneva, with a new format incorporating a new<br />

experiential ‘In The City’ component that was intended to<br />

promote the culture and lifestyle of Geneva.<br />

W&W was then converted into a digital<br />

platform due to the COVID-19 pandemic,<br />

and considered a success – within the<br />

limitations of an online event.<br />

However, an organised week-long<br />

online presentation such as W&W<br />

is not a trade fair and to be<br />

perfectly frank, there is quite<br />

simply no comparison.<br />

Experienced journalists<br />

reporting digital presentations<br />

are degraded to ‘influencers’<br />

by removing any possibility of<br />

genuine review.<br />

Handling the actual product in<br />

the company of the brand and<br />

watch brands<br />

presenting digitally<br />

at Watches &<br />

Wonders Geneva<br />

<strong>2021</strong><br />

19<br />

watch brands<br />

presenting<br />

physically at<br />

Watches & Wonders<br />

Shanghai <strong>2021</strong><br />

23,000<br />

guests invited* to<br />

attend the digital<br />

event – the same as<br />

SIHH’s record 2019<br />

attendance<br />

*Actual attendance data<br />

unavailable<br />

CHF4,300<br />

cost of smallest<br />

exhibition space at<br />

HourUniverse <strong>2021</strong><br />

15%<br />

proportion of<br />

Baselworld<br />

attendance cost<br />

attributed to booth<br />

rental, for an average<br />

exhibitor<br />

other industry journalists is a very different scenario to<br />

sitting in the office staring at a computer screen while<br />

studio images cruise by with a smooth brand commentary.<br />

For the press, which has provided decades of reader and<br />

buyer access to new products and informed, in-depth<br />

industry coverage, constructing a reliable review with only<br />

digital imagery adds a considerable degree of difficulty.<br />

Of course, the highly developed physical trade fair<br />

format primarily incorporates brand presentations and<br />

commentary, and also digital components – but it is not<br />

reliant on these.<br />

Physical shows also provide the benefit of footfall to the<br />

newer and smaller exhibitors – it should be noted that such<br />

exhibitors were conspicuously absent for the seven days<br />

of the digital W&W, and their selling platform was simply<br />

non-existent.<br />

For the <strong>2021</strong> edition, W&W was split into two parts, starting<br />

with a digital format in Geneva, then over to Shanghai for an<br />

in-person salon.<br />

Thus, for more than 10 days, the eyes of the world were on<br />

the creativity and expertise of the most prestigious names<br />

in watchmaking.<br />

The Geneva digital component focused on a well-organised<br />

succession of brand and discussion forums during the<br />

second week of April.<br />

There were approximately 500 press conferences,<br />

more than 40 keynote addresses, a daily live Morning<br />

Show, six expert-led panels and a wealth of exceptional<br />

horological creations revealed by the 38 prestigious<br />

participating brands.<br />

Industry heavyweights, including those that deserted<br />

Baselworld, participated. Some new brands have recently<br />

joined, such as the LVMH Group’s watchmaking division, as<br />

well as Oris, Carl F. Bucherer, Maurice Lacroix and Nomos.<br />

Most of the historic brands which were part of the<br />

SIHH – and are largely owned by luxury conglomerate<br />

Richemont – were still present, together with the big,<br />

well-established independents Rolex, Tudor, Patek Philippe,<br />

Chopard and Chanel.<br />

<strong>May</strong> <strong>2021</strong> | 40

Watching the Clock | WATCH INDUSTRY REVIEW<br />

Watches & Wonders<br />

was split into two<br />

parts, starting with<br />

a digital format in<br />

Geneva, then over<br />

to Shanghai for an<br />

in-person salon.”<br />

EST. 1981<br />



L to R: Rolex; Watches & Wonders Geneva was immediately followed by Watches & Wonders Shanghai (facing page);<br />

Chopard movement (center)<br />

Chopard<br />


SHOP FOR<br />








Glues<br />

(07) 3876 7481<br />

sales@labanda.com.au<br />

FAX: (07) 3368 3100<br />

www.labanda.com.au<br />

Overall, 38 brands presented at the<br />

Geneva W&W via the digital platform.<br />

A few days later, 19 brands exhibited<br />

in a physical format at the invitation-only<br />

Shanghai show.<br />

Media representatives, retailers, and<br />

selected watch enthusiasts were able<br />

to handle watches presented at W&W<br />

Geneva, as well as new models created<br />

especially for the Chinese market, and<br />

coveted heritage pieces.<br />

The list included new models from Rolex,<br />

Tudor, Chopard, Baume & Mercier and<br />

Ulysse Nardin.<br />

In addition, the dedicated auditorium space<br />

saw expert panels discussing topics including<br />

digitalisation in business, the impact of the<br />

secondary market in China, <strong>2021</strong> trends,<br />

iconic watches and watchmaking’s grand<br />

complications. The panels were also livestreamed<br />

and broadcast via social media.<br />

Building more anticipation and excitement<br />

for the event, attendees were teased with<br />

the promise of celebrity ambassadors,<br />

influencers, and a 15,000-drone light<br />

show on the closing evening.<br />

Swatch Group digs in<br />

Matthias Breschan, who was appointed<br />

CEO of Longines in July 2020, recently<br />

reaffirmed that Swatch Group will not be<br />

returning to the normal form of trade fair,<br />

such as HourUniverse, successor to the<br />

now-defunct Baselworld.<br />


Key Points<br />

Digital<br />

stop-gap<br />

Online trade fairs<br />

are no replacement<br />

for physical, but<br />

they have served<br />

a purpose during<br />

COVID-19<br />

Supporting<br />

small<br />

The physical<br />

shows offer<br />

opportunities<br />

and value to smaller,<br />

independent<br />

watch brands<br />

Change is<br />

in the air<br />

HourUniverse’s<br />

new summer dates,<br />

pricing structure,<br />

and attractions may<br />

prove advantageous<br />

The former CEO of Rado told UK-based<br />

industry publication WatchPro, “The whole way<br />

Baselworld was conducted was obsolete.<br />

“We need new ways to present novelties<br />

throughout the year and in different countries.<br />

We need to be flexible.”<br />

While it is assuredly true that it is beneficial<br />

for watch brands to present their innovations<br />

throughout the year and in different countries,<br />

Breschan’s Baselworld assertion is<br />

simplistic nonsense.<br />

Baselworld certainly had its problems, but<br />

those problems had nothing whatever to do<br />

with obsolescence.<br />

A primary release and presentation at<br />

a physical event creates opportunities for<br />

media, suppliers, retailers, and the public<br />

to interact with the new products and build<br />

relationships with the brand, as well as<br />

networking with other industry players.<br />

As has been noted by other analysts, a single<br />

release is more cost-effective for smaller<br />

brands which may lack the resources to hold<br />

several presentations in different locations<br />

throughout each year.<br />

In a statement released in February,<br />

Michel Loris-Melikoff, managing director<br />

HourUniverse, said, “Our ongoing discussions<br />

with industry stakeholders have clearly<br />

demonstrated that the demand from the wider<br />

community for a large annual gathering in<br />

Switzerland, in the heart of Europe, is now<br />

stronger than ever.<br />

“We are working to make HourUniverse not<br />

only the best business platform, but also a<br />

superb experience for our visitors.”<br />

He added, “The pleasure of all being together,<br />

seeing clients and the press again, discovering<br />

and creating new opportunities, facilitating<br />

transparency, openness and conviviality<br />

are at the heart of our endeavours.”<br />

For its part, the organiser of HourUniverse –<br />

the Switzerland-based MCH Group – says the<br />

entire on-site reception structure has been<br />

redesigned to address exhibitor concerns.<br />

The pricing policy has been drastically adjusted<br />

to allow exhibitors a better return on their<br />

investment, adapted to their business’ size,<br />

scope, expectations and needs.<br />

Similarly, the accommodation offered for<br />

exhibitors, media representatives, and visitors<br />

alike will be at guaranteed competitive prices.<br />

Outdoor catering and public entertainment<br />

areas are also planned; these are promising<br />

steps in the right direction.<br />

In February, MCH Group published a statement<br />

confirming the show – initially scheduled<br />

for April, to coincide with Geneva W&W<br />

– would instead be postponed to the Northern<br />

Hemisphere summer (June to August).<br />

It remains to be seen if the new Swiss show<br />

can live up to the Baselworld trade fair legacy,<br />

but the industry exhibitors should at least give<br />

it a try.<br />

Fast delivery Australia wide<br />

Keep your watch<br />

repair business<br />

aliving and ticking<br />

Seiko and Energizer watch<br />

batteries. Spare parts supplier<br />

of Seiko, plus Seiko tools and<br />

accessories.<br />

German-made Beco Technic<br />

watchmaker supplies and<br />

Heli watch care.<br />

As a family owned and operated<br />

business, we value your business<br />

and support.<br />

Proudly serving the jewellery<br />

trade for over forty years.<br />

Preferred supplier to all four<br />

buying groups.<br />

Free Call: 1800 244 354<br />

Free Fax: 1800 028 887<br />

It’s easy to place your order!<br />



Coloured Gemstones<br />

L to R: Anna Hu brooch and necklace; Van Cleef & Arpels brooch<br />

Beautiful<br />

The popularity of coloured gemstones continues to offer jewellers<br />

a spectrum of possibilities – and new innovations in supply<br />

chain transparency are making the sector even more desirable,<br />

writes ARABELLA RODEN.<br />


There is no denying the appeal of coloured<br />

gemstones. From the high jewellery of Paris<br />

Couture Fashion Week to Tiffany & Co.’s<br />

Blue Book Collection – the centrepiece of its annual<br />

design calendar – the spotlight in <strong>2021</strong> has been<br />

firmly focused on vibrant, vivid gemstones in every<br />

colour of the rainbow.<br />

Soothing yet magnetic hues of blue and green, captured in<br />

aquamarine and emerald, were emphasised at Tasaki and<br />

David Morris, while Bucherer painted a perfect pastel picture<br />

with soft pink and purple spinel and sapphire.<br />

Inspired by the natural world, Tiffany’s Blue Book – themed<br />

‘Colors of Nature’ – teemed with tanzanite, tourmaline,<br />

and garnet.<br />

Beyond pure creativity, the collections also reflect consumers’<br />

– and the wider jewellery industry’s – increasing desire for a<br />

varied palette of colour.<br />

“Coloured gemstones become more and more important and<br />

sought-after; they express individuality, style, connoisseurship<br />

and add colour to your life,” says Raphael Gübelin, president<br />

of the House of Gübelin – including Gübelin <strong>Jeweller</strong>y as well<br />

as the Gübelin Gem Lab, which specialises in the scientific<br />

analysis of coloured gemstones.<br />

He adds, “We recognised that people are looking for the<br />

so-called ‘big three’ of ruby, emerald, and sapphire, and are<br />

also interested in gems such as Paraíba tourmalines and<br />

Padparadscha sapphires.<br />

“In our latest Gübelin <strong>Jeweller</strong>y creations you will find rubies,<br />

emeralds and sapphires – especially fancy coloured sapphires<br />

– often in a sophisticated combination of colours and cuts.”<br />

Mauro Carvajal, director Colonial Gemstones – which<br />

sources emeralds exclusively from Colombia – told <strong>Jeweller</strong>,<br />

“Emeralds have definitely increased in popularity, and it is<br />

getting more and more common to wear an emerald ring for<br />

weddings and anniversaries.<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong>y Theatre<br />

Harry Winston<br />

“Emerald can be sourced from different places like Zambia,<br />

Brazil, Ethiopia, and Zimbabwe and Colombia – though<br />

Colombian emeralds are famous for their quality.”<br />

Katherine Kovacs, director K&K Export Import, has observed<br />

strong demand for a wide variety of gemstones: “Tealcoloured<br />

gemstones have been a strong trend for the<br />

past year or two and this shows no signs of slowing down,<br />

with sales of blue zircon from Cambodia, tourmalines and<br />

particularly Australian sapphire seeing high demand.<br />

“I’m also personally pleased to see Australian opal of all<br />

types enjoying a spike in popularity in the domestic market<br />

the likes of which we haven’t seen for a number of years.”<br />

Recent Gemfields auction results have also reflected this<br />

increased demand.<br />

“Coloured gemstones become more and more<br />

important and sought-after; they express<br />

individuality, style, connoisseurship and<br />

add colour to your life”<br />


House of Gübelin<br />

Adrian Banks, managing director of product and sales, told<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong> that Kagem – Gemfields’ emerald mining subsidiary,<br />

based in Zambia – had recently recorded its highest auction<br />

revenue since March 2016.<br />

“We were very pleased to see such strong demand and<br />

pricing. Because operations were suspended at Kagem in<br />

March 2020, the world’s largest emerald mine produced no<br />

new emeralds for more than a year.”<br />

He added, “Kagem has already surpassed the aggregate<br />

auction revenues achieved in the whole of 2020, which stood<br />

at just $US22.4 million ($AU28.8 million) as a result of the<br />

fall-out from the COVID-19 pandemic.”<br />

Gemfields also operates Montepuez Ruby Mining (MRM) in<br />

Chaumet<br />

<strong>May</strong> <strong>2021</strong> | 44

All Things Bright and Beautiful | COLOURED GEMSTONE FEATURE<br />

L to R: Van Cleef & Arpels brooches; Tasaki earrings<br />

Carolina Bucci<br />



Many factors inform the demand for particular coloured gemstones;<br />

fashion – inspired by celebrities, high jewellery collections from<br />

the likes of Tiffany & Co., Cartier, and Dior, and media – as well<br />

as affordability and consumer preferences for locally or ethicallysourced<br />

products all influence purchasing patterns.<br />

In the past 12 months, suppliers tell <strong>Jeweller</strong> the most notable<br />

trend has been the ongoing popularity of Australian teal sapphire,<br />

which now commands far higher prices given the increased demand<br />

and more limited supply.<br />

Peach gemstones, deep pink rubellite and sapphire, emeralds, and<br />

tourmaline also remain desirable to consumers, while Australian<br />

opal has seen a resurgence.<br />

Powerful<br />

Stones<br />

Meanings &<br />

combinations<br />

customers<br />

will love!<br />

Mozambique. Banks notes recent results from seven “sequential<br />

mini-auctions” had “yielded the third-highest revenue figure of<br />

the 14 auctions which MRM has run since June 2014”.<br />

“We are very encouraged by the strong appetite from our clients<br />

and by the prices realised,” Banks added.<br />

Outside the ‘big three’, Charles Lawson, director of retailer and<br />

supplier Lawson Gems, tells <strong>Jeweller</strong>, “In the last 12-18 months,<br />

we saw demand spread across our whole range of stock rather<br />

than our usual bestsellers of Australian sapphire and opal.<br />

“Coloured gemstones appear to be on an ever upward climb<br />

in popularity, especially as public knowledge about coloured<br />

gemstones beyond the big three increases,” he added.<br />

COVID recovery<br />

Alongside increasing consumer demand, the COVID-19<br />

pandemic has undeniably impacted the gemstone market.<br />

Notes Kovacs, “We’re fortunate that, having been in the<br />

gemstone business for more than 50 years, we have a number<br />

of long-standing suppliers overseas who are working with us to<br />

continue to supply goods.<br />

“Obviously we can’t travel internationally to select goods in<br />

person because of COVID-19, so we are very fortunate to have a<br />

strong buying network that we can trust to assist with sourcing.”<br />

Lawson observes, “Our biggest issue has been the lack of<br />

international travel, as without being able to visit our suppliers<br />

and miners and purchase gemstones first-hand, it has made our<br />

purchasing procedures much more difficult,” adding, “Shipments<br />

of any sort were obviously going to be delayed during COVID-19<br />

restrictions and we did struggle more than usual getting our<br />

gemstones from the small mining communities that were hit<br />

hard by COVID-19.”<br />

Colonial Gemstones’ Carvajal called 2020 an “unremarkable<br />

year” but said his business had largely returned to normal<br />

in recent months: “The impact during COVID-19 on Colonial<br />

Gemstones was proportional to the rest of the industry, but we<br />

still exist – and we are stronger than ever.”<br />

For primary producers like Gemfields, mines were forced to<br />

temporarily close or operate at a maintenance – rather than<br />

45 | <strong>May</strong> <strong>2021</strong><br />

Henn Gems<br />

productive – level, while auctions were not permitted to proceed<br />

for more than a year.<br />

“As a result of the fall-out from the COVID-19 pandemic, this<br />

auction was also our first since December 2019, meaning we<br />

realised no sales at all for some 15 months,” Banks says of<br />

Gemfields’ ruby division.<br />

“Because operations were suspended at MRM in April 2020, the<br />

world’s largest ruby mine produced no new rubies for almost a<br />

year... MRM is only now commencing mining for its next mixedquality<br />

ruby auction, which we hope will occur late this year.<br />

“Emeralds have definitely increased in popularity,<br />

and it is getting more and more common to wear<br />

an emerald ring for weddings and anniversaries”<br />


Colonial Gemstones<br />

Adds Banks, “Gemfields is excited to be back in business after<br />

the lengthy pause in both mining and sales and – as always –<br />

we extend our sincere thanks to our hard-working teams, to<br />

our host governments in Mozambique and Zambia, and to our<br />

customers for their ongoing support.”<br />

With the situation far from certain as the pandemic continues,<br />

many of Gemfields’ regular clients viewed the early <strong>2021</strong> auctions<br />

as a “vital opportunity” to purchase rubies and emeralds.<br />

Driving progress<br />

As many analysts have noted, there is an ongoing consumer<br />

trend toward ethical purchasing – and indeed, the gemstone<br />

industry is making significant strides toward transparent<br />

supply chains.<br />

Says Gübelin, “Transparency is key when it comes to<br />

sustainability and provenance, and transparency is a<br />

‘mega trend’, becoming more and more important.”<br />

Lawson notes, “The last 12 to 18 months have seen some major<br />

moments in the battles for both human rights and environmental<br />


In particular demand for engagement rings,<br />

Australian teal sapphires continue to captivate<br />

consumers – as they have done for the past few years.<br />


There has been a surge in demand for emeralds<br />

– particularly premium Colombian specimens in<br />

classic emerald cut, sizes 2–5 carats. Tsavorite and<br />

demantoid garnet and green sapphire have also made<br />

it into many high jewellery collections.<br />


Consumers and jewellery designers alike are<br />

thinking pink, with bold, saturated pink sapphires,<br />

rubellite tourmaline, and ruby making a statement in<br />

chandelier earrings and pendant necklaces.<br />


Demand for Australia’s iconic opals has increased,<br />

with local consumers and international jewellery<br />

houses entranced by its multi-hued play of colour.<br />


The dazzling sky-blue shades of Cambodian zircon<br />

and Paraìba tourmaline are captivating jewellers and<br />

consumers. Cornflower-blue sapphires and tanzanite<br />

have also been seen in many designer collections.<br />


The peach colour trend – combining softer shades<br />

of orange and pink – continues, with Padparadscha<br />

sapphire and orange tourmaline at the forefront.<br />

Australia/New Zealand Distributor<br />


www.pridebrands.com.au<br />

Ph: (03) 6171 8005<br />

sales@pridebrands.com.au<br />

<strong>May</strong> <strong>2021</strong> | 46<br />

<strong>2021</strong> COLLECTION

All Things Bright and Beautiful | COLOURED GEMSTONE FEATURE<br />

L to R: Van Cleef & Arpels brooch; Bulgari necklace Sicis ring L to R: <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Theatre brooch; Chopard necklace; Frédéric Mané earrings<br />

policy. This is really driving people to start demanding that<br />

their gemstones, just like their coffee and their cotton, have<br />

been sourced in a responsible manner.”<br />

He adds, “The plight of artisanal miners in developing<br />

nations did receive much more publicity due to the impact<br />

of COVID-19 on these communities, which has thankfully<br />

inspired more consumers to ask the question of how their<br />

gemstones were sourced and helped increase the demand<br />

for responsibly-sourced coloured gemstones.”<br />

At Colonial Gemstones, emeralds are sourced directly from<br />

the Muzo, Coscuez, Chivor, and Gachala Mines.<br />

Says Carvajal, “Colonial Gemstones is involved in every<br />

stage of the emerald’s life, from the moment it is extracted<br />

from the mine. Our emeralds are cut, polished, and graded<br />

in Colombia and then again at their final destination<br />

country, if necessary.<br />

“Our customers can have confidence knowing that Colonial<br />

Gemstones is involved every step of the way, ensuring that<br />

the final product is completely authentic and delivered with<br />

care and professionalism.”<br />

Kovacs observes that locally-sourced gemstones have<br />

been given an edge, as their provenance can be more easily<br />

traced: “Consumers are increasingly conscious of ethical<br />

supply chains and I believe that is driving the demand for<br />

Australian gemstones across the board,” she says.<br />

The vast majority of the world’s coloured gemstones are<br />

mined artisanally, in contrast to the large-scale, regulated<br />

mining that dominates the diamond market. This can<br />

present challenges when it comes to ensuring an ethical<br />

supply chain – or even a traceable one.<br />

“Our industry was struggling [with transparency] because<br />

the supply chain is very long, fragmented and complex,” Dr<br />

Daniel Nyfeler, managing director Gübelin Gem Lab, told<br />

CNA Luxury late last year.<br />

As a gemstone-rich country – from which tanzanite, ruby,<br />

sapphire, garnet and tourmaline, among others, are<br />

sourced – Tanzania has become a focus for transparency<br />

Having been in the gemstone<br />

business for more than 50 years,<br />

we have a number of long-standing<br />

suppliers overseas... We can’t travel<br />

internationally to select goods in<br />

person because of COVID-19, so we<br />

are very fortunate to have a strong<br />

buying network that we can trust.”<br />

Katherine Kovacs<br />

K&K Export Import<br />

The plight of artisanal miners in<br />

developing nations did receive much<br />

more publicity due to the impact of<br />

COVID-19 on these communities,<br />

which has thankfully inspired more<br />

consumers to ask the question of<br />

how their gemstones were sourced.”<br />

Charles Lawson<br />

Lawson Gems<br />

Today, three out of five jewellery<br />

brands we speak with are asking to<br />

know the provenance of gemstones<br />

and to learn more about the story<br />

behind them.”<br />

Victoria Favoroso<br />

GemCloud<br />

initiatives; it is estimated that approximately 1 million<br />

people are employed in its artisanal mining sector.<br />

The Moyo Gems project was established in 2019 between<br />

international development organisation Pact, suppliers<br />

Anza Gems and Nineteen48, and the Tanzania Women<br />

Miners Association (TAWOMA).<br />

“We call Moyo Gems a responsible sourcing initiative,”<br />

Cristina Villegas, Pact’s director of mines to markets,<br />

explained in a recent webinar. “What we’ve done is<br />

establish traceability down to the miner and the broker.”<br />

Participation in the Moyo Gems project involves four<br />

components for miners: membership to one of six preselected<br />

villages, completion of Gemological Institute of<br />

America (GIA) training – which can be provided by Moyo<br />

Gems – membership of TAWOMA, which is open to both<br />

men and women, and finally, proof of work at a licenced<br />

mine, or written permission to mine the concession of a<br />

licence-holder with Tanzania’s Ministry of Mines.<br />

High-quality gemstones are then selected and sold to<br />

Anza Gems and Nineteen48 at regulated Market Days<br />

within Tanzania; the project claims miners receive more<br />

than triple the value per gemstone selling through Moyo<br />

than they would have at a village or regional city market.<br />

Technology of traceability<br />

The increasing emphasis on sustainable and secure<br />

sourcing has also led to an influx of technologybased<br />

solutions.<br />

“In 2017, we launched Provenance Proof to enable more<br />

transparency to the entire gemstone and jewellery trade,”<br />

Raphael Gübelin explains.<br />

It comprises a range of technological services, including<br />

the Emerald Paternity Test and the Provenance Proof<br />

blockchain platform.<br />

According to Gübelin, it is the first free blockchain platform<br />

for coloured gemstones, open to the entire gemstone and<br />

jewellery industry: “Our overall aim is to offer a broad<br />

and comprehensive range of information that allows the<br />

buyer to make a conscious purchasing decision based on<br />

reliable data from a trustworthy source,” he says.<br />

The Emerald Paternity Test involves applying<br />

nanoparticle ‘labels’ directly to emerald rough at the<br />

mine, allowing the material to be traced even after<br />

cleaning, cutting and polishing.<br />

The blockchain platform was developed with technology<br />

startup Everledger, which also pioneered blockchain<br />

solutions for the diamond sector.<br />

“Responsible sourcing for Gemfields<br />

means implementing industry-leading<br />

policies and practices across operations,<br />

transparency in our auction sales process,<br />

[and] an active role in working groups to<br />

modernise the sector ”<br />


Gemfields<br />

Leanne Kemp, CEO Everledger, added, “[The blockchain<br />

platform] allows consumers to take pride in that the<br />

gemstone in their necklace comes from a certain part of,<br />

say, Zambia or Tanzania, safe in the knowledge that the<br />

person who mined it was properly compensated.<br />

“As a more ethical and sustainable capitalism rises<br />

to the very top of the agenda among Millennials and<br />

Gen Z, transparency is surely becoming a commercial<br />

imperative.”<br />

Dr Nyfeler added, “<strong>Jeweller</strong>s embrace these<br />

transparency technologies because it gives them a rich<br />

source of data for their storytelling.”<br />

Gemfields has adopted the Provenance Proof Blockchain,<br />

in addition to a number of other initiatives and policies.<br />

Jack Cunningham, Gemfields’ director of sustainability,<br />

John Dyer<br />

Chris Wolfsberg<br />

Naomi Sarna<br />

policy, and risk, says, “Our goal is to operate in a way<br />

that contributes positively to national economies, takes<br />

a leading role in modernising the coloured gemstone<br />

sector and builds lasting livelihoods for the communities<br />

around our mines.<br />

He adds, “Responsible sourcing for Gemfields means<br />

implementing industry-leading policies and practices<br />

across operations, transparency in our auction sales<br />

process, an active role in working groups to modernise<br />

the sector, projects to improve health, education and<br />

livelihoods for the communities around our mines<br />

and conservation efforts [for] Africa’s wildlife and<br />

biodiversity.”<br />

Further up the supply chain, online B2B gemstone<br />

trading platform Gemolith recently introduced a<br />

traceability section to specifically cater to the desire for<br />

transparently-sourced material, with Greenland Ruby as<br />

its first featured producer.<br />

Victoria Favoroso, CEO of Gemolith’s parent company<br />

GemCloud, said in a statement, “Today, three out of five<br />

jewellery brands we speak with are asking to know the<br />

provenance of gemstones and to learn more about the<br />

story behind them.”<br />

In April <strong>2021</strong>, another online gemstone trading<br />

platform, Gembridge – which touts itself as a ‘strictly<br />

regulated global digital platform for the transparent<br />

trade of colored gemstones, pearls, and jewellery’<br />

– was launched.<br />

The business allows verified members to ‘buy, sell<br />

and consign, using a secure and insured door-to-door<br />

service’. Based in Singapore, it is compliant with that<br />

country’s strict Know Your Customer (KYC) and Anti-<br />

Money Laundering (AML) regulations.<br />

Indeed, while it will always be the captivating colour that<br />

draws consumers to coloured gemstones, provenance<br />

and supply chain transparency offer another selling point<br />

for jewellers, providing a compelling story of origin as<br />

well as appealing to the desire for ethical products.<br />

47 | <strong>May</strong> <strong>2021</strong><br />

<strong>May</strong> <strong>2021</strong> | 48


Strategy<br />

Business Strategy<br />

Does your store have ‘community charisma’?<br />

Today’s consumers want to feel connected to the businesses they purchase from – and being part of the local<br />

community goes a long way towards earning their trust and confidence, write RICH KIZER and GEORGANNE BENDER.<br />

Much of our time each year is spent<br />

visiting retailers, interacting with<br />

shoppers, and perusing stores. In our<br />

31 years together we’ve seen the good,<br />

the bad and the really ugly. The retailers<br />

we meet can be placed in one of three<br />

categories – those who ‘get it’, those who<br />

don’t yet, and those who never will.<br />

Retailers who ‘get it’ always find a way to<br />

thrill shoppers.<br />

Those in the second category can evolve into<br />

category one, but the ones who never will<br />

are the retailers who take to social media<br />

to complain about the lack of sales, about<br />

customers who annoy them, suppliers<br />

that cheese them off, and the things their<br />

community won’t do for them.<br />

Sadly, most of these retailers won’t survive<br />

in the long run.<br />

Connecting with community<br />

When we started our business, we decided<br />

we’d need an office. We got a map of the<br />

area and put a pin in the dead centre<br />

between the two towns we lived in, and St<br />

Charles, Illinois became our new home. St<br />

Charles has a strong sense of community<br />

and an active Business Alliance that plans<br />

year-round events that draw thousands of<br />

people from all over region.<br />

While most businesses embrace these<br />

events, some don’t – and that’s their<br />

first mistake.<br />

What these businesses lack is ‘community<br />

charisma’; they feel separated from the<br />

people who should make up the majority<br />

of their customer base and don’t generate<br />

much customer loyalty or goodwill.<br />

Terri King, owner of gift store My Secret<br />

Garden in Michigan, is one of the retailers<br />

we have visited over the years.<br />

She suggests retailers jump into community<br />

events with both feet, saying, “When there<br />

is a festival in my town, we throw the doors<br />

open. We drag things out on the footpath,<br />

create photo ops, dress in costume and<br />

have a blast with all the energy.”<br />

The only opportunities you’ll miss are the<br />

ones you don’t take.<br />

You can’t win if you don’t play<br />

One example of a great community event<br />

is the annual Scarecrow Festival. Over<br />

The next time<br />

your community<br />

has an event,<br />

or another<br />

local business<br />

proposes<br />

a crosspromotion,<br />

look at it as an<br />

opportunity<br />

to engage<br />

shoppers<br />

three days, more than 150 hand-crafted<br />

scarecrows made by local businesses are<br />

displayed in the town park.<br />

The festival also features live entertainment,<br />

food, rides, kids’ activities, an arts and<br />

crafts show, plus special deals from local<br />

businesses – there’s a lot to do.<br />

The town is jam-packed with people (or it<br />

was, prior to the COVID-19 pandemic, and<br />

will be again in the future).<br />

What is frustrating is the stores that decide<br />

to close during the festival while there are<br />

tens of thousands of potential customers<br />

walking past!<br />

This decision is justified by the limited<br />

parking available, because people will<br />

ask to use the store’s restroom, or because<br />

the store owner thinks shoplifting will be<br />

an issue.<br />

All of these concerns are understandable,<br />

but closing the store serves no benefit.<br />

The retailer could have stood in front of<br />

the store and told passersby about their<br />

business, perhaps holding a raffle to collect<br />

email addresses, and hand out coupons for<br />

special offers.<br />

The bottom line is that people notice when<br />

a business doesn’t participate in a<br />

community event, and there are real<br />

benefits to participating.<br />

Assess your charisma<br />

We have developed an exercise called<br />

‘Circles of Excellence’ that we recommend<br />

business owners carry out every quarter.<br />

Begin by drawing a circle and inside list<br />

all of the things that are essential to serve<br />

your customers – such as staff who have<br />

excellent product knowledge, a clear,<br />

informative, and functional website, and<br />

parking close to the store.<br />

Next, draw a larger circle around the first<br />

one; this outer circle represents the extra<br />

things that you offer, for example free gift<br />

wrapping, classes and other in-store events,<br />

spontaneous sales, and social media<br />

promotions.<br />

It’s most important to focus on the outer<br />

circle – these are the factors that make your<br />

store stand out and create your ‘community<br />

charisma’. However, once customers get<br />

used to the perks in the outer circle, they<br />

get relegated to the inner circle.<br />

This is why it’s so important to do this<br />

exercise at least once a quarter and before<br />

each community event.<br />

The power of participation<br />

So, what can you do to jumpstart your<br />

community charisma? Here are some ideas<br />

from our recent travels to help you get the<br />

ideas flowing:<br />

Harness the power of selfies – People of<br />

all ages today practice ‘lifestyle marketing’,<br />

sharing where they are and what they are<br />

doing on social media. For that reason,<br />

‘selfie stations’ with props are an easy way<br />

to make your store a part of their story.<br />

Sometimes all you need is a cardboard<br />

frame to make a selfie special. It should<br />

include your business’ name, address and<br />

hashtag.<br />

Alternatively, you can increase your<br />

business’ local exposure by hosting a selfie<br />

contest. Your post might read: “Take a selfie<br />

in our store and receive 10 per cent off your<br />

next purchase! Visit us between (date) and<br />

(date), take a selfie in the store and post it<br />

on Instagram. Tag us, include the hashtag,<br />

and you could win (prize)”.<br />

Change your selfie station and/or props<br />

seasonally to encourage shoppers to share<br />

photos often.<br />

Make your signage work harder – A survey<br />

commissioned by courier service FedEx<br />

found that 68 per cent of customers said<br />

they had made a purchase after a sign<br />

caught their attention.<br />

Every smart retailer knows that signs on<br />

that sales floor encourage purchases, so<br />

why are so many stores ‘under-signed’?<br />

And when displays are signed, why are<br />

those signs so boring?<br />

It’s okay to have fun with your in-store<br />

signage; express your personality!<br />

Chalk on the footpath is another option for<br />

signage as it stops foot traffic right outside<br />

your storefront, takes advantage of unused<br />

space, and is free.<br />

Many retailers have embraced easel signs<br />

too because they give a store ‘street level’<br />

exposure and they are easy to change. Use<br />

them to highlight events going on in-store<br />

or to give your customers a laugh.<br />

Another way to build good-will and<br />

community charisma is to put up signs<br />

celebrating your employees.<br />

This helps build a rapport with your<br />

potential customers, improves your staff<br />

morale, and makes your business feel more<br />

relatable and friendly.<br />

Try out cross-promotions – Something that<br />

always stands out is when retailers support<br />

one another, and cross-promotion can be<br />

a very effective and affordable strategy for<br />

increasing the visibility of your store.<br />

Repetition is a key part of advertising<br />

because it helps customers recall your<br />

business, and cross-promotion means<br />

shoppers will be reminded several times.<br />

Large companies that own multiple<br />

businesses often use cross-promotion to<br />

their advantage. In the US, Disney owns the<br />

television network ABC, so advertisements<br />

for Disney films are regularly played in the<br />

commercial breaks of ABC shows.<br />

Another example is airlines cross-<br />

BETTER<br />


Local events<br />

Make sure<br />

your business<br />

is an active<br />

participant in<br />

local events that<br />

attract footfall<br />

Online meets<br />

offline<br />

In-store<br />

competitions<br />

and fun signage<br />

can get extra<br />

traction via<br />

social media<br />

Promotion<br />

partners<br />

Cross-promote<br />

with other local<br />

businesses to<br />

attract new<br />

customers<br />

promoting with hotels and car-rental<br />

companies. Product placement in movies<br />

and TV shows is yet another form of crosspromotion.<br />

On a local level, cross-promotions between<br />

small businesses can be even more creative.<br />

One example we encountered during a<br />

holiday season was a dance school that<br />

began providing ‘living window displays’ to<br />

stores all over town.<br />

The dancers would interact with shoppers<br />

and perform in the window, enticing them<br />

inside, while the businesses cross-promoted<br />

the school’s presentation of The Nutcracker.<br />

While this cross-promotion may seem a<br />

little unexpected at first, it is to a retailer’s<br />

advantage to choose a cross-promotion<br />

partner without many shared customers to<br />

reach new and untapped markets.<br />

The ice-cream parlour next-door isn’t a<br />

great fit because you probably have many<br />

customers in common simply by proximity<br />

– but the hairdresser or nail salon down the<br />

street could be perfect.<br />

Find businesses with customers who would<br />

be interested in what you sell and exchange<br />

ideas on how to promote one another.<br />

The bottom line<br />

Community is important to today’s<br />

customers; you attract positive reviews for<br />

being a good corporate citizen, protecting<br />

the environment, recycling, producing<br />

sustainable goods, and supporting charity.<br />

You also earn their loyalty by weaving<br />

yourself into the fabric of your local<br />

community.<br />

So, the next time your community has an<br />

event, or another local business proposes<br />

a cross-promotion, look at it as an<br />

opportunity to engage shoppers and meet<br />

potential new customers.<br />

And if someone uses your restroom without<br />

purchasing anything? You’ll survive!<br />


BENDER are retail strategists,<br />

authors and consultants. Visit:<br />

kizerandbender.com<br />

49 | <strong>May</strong> <strong>2021</strong><br />

<strong>May</strong> <strong>2021</strong> | 50


Selling<br />


Management<br />

The virtues that business leaders should use<br />

to inform their sales strategy right now<br />

SUE BARRETT explains how sales performance and management can be improved by implementing<br />

a new strategy that is driven by three key values of trustworthiness, co-operation, and gratitude.<br />

Relying on gut instinct is not enough<br />

when building your retail strategy<br />

BRIAN WALKER explores the powers – and limitations – of intuition when<br />

it comes to managing a retail business and how experience interacts with data.<br />

In September 2019, I wrote an article<br />

advising of the strategies business<br />

leaders could implement immediately<br />

to improve their sales results in a<br />

challenging market.<br />

Given the advent of COVID-19 and the many<br />

lessons learnt since, it is now important to<br />

revisit that advice while emphasising three<br />

extra virtues as guiding principles.<br />

These virtues are trustworthiness,<br />

co-operation, and gratitude, which all<br />

underpin good business.<br />

Many people’s perspectives and priorities<br />

have shifted in the last year beyond the<br />

mere matter of making money; they are<br />

closely examining their relationship to<br />

work, career, others, and themselves.<br />

They are focusing on what really matters<br />

to our ongoing collective wellbeing<br />

and prosperity.<br />

As a result, trustworthiness, co-operation,<br />

and gratitude are particularly relevant to<br />

business leaders’ interactions with them<br />

as customers – and staff.<br />

Trustworthiness<br />

Trustworthiness is the foundation<br />

of both business agreements and<br />

personal promises.<br />

When trustworthy people give their<br />

word, they stand by it and through their<br />

actions they keep their promises and<br />

commitments. They display consistency,<br />

constancy, and loyalty.<br />

When a person or a business is worthy of<br />

trust, they attract abundance and create<br />

lasting success.<br />

Co-operation<br />

Co-operation means working together<br />

for the good of all. Co-operators seek<br />

common goals in service of a unified vision<br />

and combine their abilities with other team<br />

members to create something none could<br />

achieve alone.<br />

Particularly in times of difficulty, cooperation<br />

is critical as it allows groups<br />

to share the load. Co-operative people<br />

Build your sales strategy on a solid foundation of virtuous values.<br />

willingly do tasks others ask of them and<br />

look for ways to be helpful, as well as<br />

asking for help when it is needed.<br />

This quality is the one that can turn a<br />

dream or vision into a reality and is as<br />

essential for business leaders as it is<br />

for individual staff members within a<br />

business.<br />

As the saying goes, “If you want to go fast,<br />

go alone; if you want to go far, go together.”<br />

Gratitude<br />

Gratitude is a constant attitude and<br />

expression of thankfulness and<br />

appreciation for life as it unfolds.<br />

Operating from a basis of gratitude<br />

allows business owners to notice the<br />

small graces and blessings that take place<br />

each day and to understand, accept, and<br />

learn freely.<br />

Gratitude is the essence of happiness and<br />

a continual celebration of life; it makes<br />

business leaders more resilient and<br />

resourceful, improves morale, and creates<br />

stronger relationships with customers.<br />

Applying values to sales<br />

Taking into account these three virtues,<br />

as well as the experience of COVID-19,<br />

here are seven strategies to improve sales<br />

operations immediately:<br />

• Define a clear, relevant, and compelling<br />

reason for customers to buy from your<br />

business, rather than a competitor<br />

In times of<br />

difficulty,<br />

co-operation<br />

is critical as it<br />

allows groups to<br />

share the load.<br />

Co-operative<br />

people willingly<br />

do tasks others<br />

ask of them and<br />

look for ways<br />

to be helpful, as<br />

well as asking<br />

for help when it<br />

is needed<br />

• Link each staff member’s role to service<br />

• Shift away from the attitude that sales<br />

are solely for achieving financial goals, and<br />

instead view sales as providing a solution<br />

to customers’ problems or a method to<br />

help them achieve their goals<br />

• Reward salespeople by removing nonsales<br />

related activities from their role<br />

• Automate any critical non-revenue<br />

generating activities in sales<br />

• Employ and develop salespeople with<br />

the right character and attitude, rather<br />

than hiring purely on sales or technical<br />

experience<br />

• Give sales managers the freedom to be<br />

leaders and coaches rather than simply<br />

increasing their sales targets.<br />

In implementing these steps, reviewing,<br />

and developing the existing sales strategy<br />

is essential.<br />

Start by analysing the target market,<br />

undertaking targeted segmentation to find<br />

viable market segments, sub segments<br />

and even micro segments.<br />

Next, audit sales processes and protocols.<br />

When it comes to existing staff members,<br />

assess the knowledge, skills, and mindset<br />

of the sales team so they are able improve<br />

specific areas of their performance.<br />

It’s also important to train managers<br />

and salespeople regularly, focusing on<br />

‘bite-sized’ learning – easy to understand,<br />

simple, and short – that is relevant<br />

and has clear applications to everyday<br />

situations.<br />

Instead of falling into the old trap of relying<br />

on a ‘point solution’ – the panacea that<br />

promises to fix everything and sounds<br />

too good to be true, because it is – take a<br />

more holistic approach to managing your<br />

sales team.<br />

SUE BARRETT is founder and CEO of<br />

innovative and forward-thinking sales<br />

advisory and education firm Barrett.<br />

Visit: barrett.com.au<br />

The late economist, businessman, and<br />

governor of the US Federal Reserve<br />

Robert Heller had a saying, “Never<br />

ignore a gut feeling, but never believe<br />

that it’s enough.”<br />

Recently, I witnessed a senior retail<br />

business leader talking through their<br />

business’ strategy, its positioning and<br />

product deployment, describing how this<br />

had been conceived from the ‘gut’ – this<br />

individual’s intuition.<br />

In other words, it was their experience<br />

and instincts that led them to deliver such<br />

a well–crafted set of opinions, as well as<br />

the company’s operating strategy over a<br />

three–year timespan.<br />

The comment made me wonder about how<br />

reliable gut instinct really is in decisionmaking<br />

– and, in this retail business<br />

leader’s case, very important decisions!<br />

These decisions often require investment<br />

capital, intensive use of resources, and<br />

more often than not, radical approaches.<br />

How could a company’s board of directors<br />

endorse a strategy formed without<br />

independent insights, research and<br />

counterbalance? I wasn’t sure, although<br />

many have and still do.<br />

Over the years, retail CEOs have had to<br />

navigate a minefield of critical decisions;<br />

many of them ‘felt’ right, but were<br />

strategically flammable.<br />

Think of the department store that<br />

expanded its bricks-and-mortar presence<br />

when the world was fast discovering<br />

internet, or the retail group that spent too<br />

much on acquisitions of other businesses<br />

and exploded its balance sheet.<br />

Naturally, what comes next is to ask, in this<br />

rapidly changing landscape, how we can<br />

rely on our ‘gut’ to predict the future.<br />

Searching for a strategy<br />

In his book Intuition At Work, author<br />

Gary Klein expresses the common – and<br />

probably flawed – wisdom that intuition<br />

is “at the centre of the decision-making<br />

process” and that analysis is, at best,<br />

A decision may ‘feel’ right, but it can’t be made without a factual basis.<br />

“a supporting tool for making intuitive<br />

decisions.”<br />

Detached from rigorous analysis, intuition<br />

is a fickle and undependable guide; it is as<br />

likely to lead to disaster as to success.<br />

And while some have argued that intuition<br />

becomes more valuable in highly complex<br />

and changeable environments, the<br />

opposite is actually true.<br />

Making great decisions ‘from the gut’ has<br />

been emblematic of leaders in the past<br />

– there are business fables assigned to<br />

these moments – yet the reality is that they<br />

are very much few and far between.<br />

In fact, exceptional instinct is a superpower<br />

that only superheroes truly possess.<br />

As Ralph Lauren, former CEO<br />

of international pharmaceutical<br />

conglomerate Johnson & Johnson, said,<br />

“Very often, people will do a brilliant job up<br />

through the middle management levels,<br />

where it’s very heavily quantitative in terms<br />

of the decision-making.<br />

“But then they reach senior management,<br />

where the problems get more complex<br />

and ambiguous, and we discover that<br />

their judgment or intuition is not what it<br />

should be.”<br />

Complexity and ambiguity are absolutely<br />

the hallmarks of the environment we live in<br />

today, and the human brain is “wired to see<br />

patterns in the information our senses take<br />

The reason<br />

successful,<br />

creative<br />

entrepreneurs,<br />

particularly<br />

those that have<br />

been in their<br />

industries for a<br />

long time, are<br />

often known<br />

to have great<br />

instincts is<br />

because they<br />

simply have a<br />

deeper well of<br />

experience to<br />

draw from<br />

in,” explains US biology professor<br />

Jeanne Hardy.<br />

Hardy observes that most of this takes<br />

place in the subconscious, which forms<br />

“95 per cent of our brain activity”.<br />

“When we subconsciously process<br />

patterns, our body produces<br />

neurochemicals that trigger both the<br />

brain and gut. This is how our intuition is<br />

formed and why we get the sensation that<br />

something ‘feels’ right or wrong,” she says.<br />

According to Hardy, intuition is formed<br />

from two aspects – current senses, or<br />

the information our brain is processing<br />

when the ‘gut feeling’ kicks in, as well as<br />

memories stored in the brain.<br />

She posits that the reason successful,<br />

creative entrepreneurs, particularly those<br />

that have been in their industries for a<br />

long time, are often known to have great<br />

instincts is because they simply have a<br />

deeper well of experience to draw from.<br />

This sums up determining the role of<br />

the ‘limbic’ – or instinctive – approach to<br />

strategy formation and the insights that<br />

years of experience bring to the table.<br />

Similarly, on the consumer side, intuition<br />

isn’t just a random collection of feelings<br />

that happen when you’re exposed to a<br />

particular product or brand.<br />

Often, these emotional responses are<br />

informed by previous experiences, ideas,<br />

and memories.<br />

In summary, a seasoned executive who<br />

has worked in the same sector for many<br />

years, and has therefore acquired ingrained<br />

learnings, experiences and relevant<br />

thinking, can largely rely on their instincts –<br />

so long as this is supported by data.<br />

Trust me, I have an intuition for these<br />

matters!<br />

BRIAN WALKER is the founder and<br />

managing director of Retail Doctor<br />

Group, a retail consulting company.<br />

Visit: retaildoctor.com.au<br />

51 | <strong>May</strong> <strong>2021</strong><br />

<strong>May</strong> <strong>2021</strong> | 52


Marketing & PR<br />


Logged On<br />

Why second is better than first<br />

when it comes to sales<br />

A customer’s second purchase with your business is the most critical part of the buying journey –<br />

and this should be the focus of your marketing strategy, writes CHRIS PETERSEN.<br />

Overlooked blogging strategies that can<br />

improve your digital marketing results<br />

BETH WALKER discusses simple ways to update and upgrade your blog content to make it more<br />

effective at attracting readers, improving your search-engine ranking, and appealing to your audience.<br />

Retail has a legacy of focusing on<br />

immediate results. Historically, the<br />

results that counted were the POS tickets<br />

and total sales at the end of the day. The<br />

better retailers measured store traffic and<br />

calculated the conversion rates.<br />

Even with the launch of ecommerce, core<br />

metrics of success still focused on traffic –<br />

acquiring customers, conversion rate, and<br />

average order volume.<br />

This is important because the metrics that<br />

are measured are the ones that can be<br />

managed and improved.<br />

Studies repeatedly show that secondtime<br />

buyers are more valuable and more<br />

profitable than new customers, yet many<br />

retailers are failing to measure the second<br />

sale and track the related customer<br />

variables, which in turn build lasting<br />

relationships that create lifetime value.<br />

So, why do so many retailers focus so<br />

heavily on the first purchase and fail to<br />

measure the key performance indicators<br />

(KPIs) of the ‘second sale’?<br />

Buy twice, buy for life<br />

In 2018, retail marketing company<br />

Bluecore analysed purchases from<br />

16 clothing businesses. The results<br />

underscored the importance and dynamics<br />

of the second sale:<br />

• Although customer value increased with<br />

each purchase, the biggest jump in value<br />

was between the first and second purchase<br />

• Second-time buyers were far more<br />

likely to become repeat buyers<br />

• Approximately 60 per cent of second<br />

purchases occur within 100 days of the first<br />

• After 100 days, the chances of a second<br />

purchase drop below 10 per cent<br />

Yet, Bluecore also found that 80 per cent<br />

of post-purchase messaging from the 16<br />

clothing businesses focused on acquiring<br />

new customers.<br />

In the past, retailers have utilised mass<br />

marketing and mass media. The goal of<br />

the marketing strategy was reach and<br />

Marketing efforts should focus on a customer’s second purchase.<br />

frequency; that is, acquiring customers<br />

and getting them into the store.<br />

The focus, measurement and metrics<br />

were on product sales today, not customer<br />

relationships tomorrow.<br />

Today, e-commerce retailers like<br />

Amazon understand the potential of the<br />

second sales, and how to leverage them.<br />

E-commerce systems were designed from<br />

the beginning to be individual customerfocused,<br />

tracking when you visit, what you<br />

view and what you purchase.<br />

Then algorithms kick in to repeat-message<br />

first time buyers for add-on sales and<br />

second purchases, while tracking all the<br />

corresponding data from the messages,<br />

offers and future sales.<br />

Yet bricks-and-mortar retailers often miss<br />

the second sale because:<br />

• Legacy systems are focused on sales<br />

transactions, not customers<br />

• Useful data is difficult to access<br />

• Metrics are focused on transactions and<br />

year-over-year results, not relationships<br />

• Many lack integrated customer<br />

relationship management (CRM) systems<br />

to re-market and message customers.<br />

How to nail the second sale<br />

The future of retail and profitability lies<br />

in retention and optimising relationships.<br />

Second-time<br />

buyers are more<br />

valuable and<br />

more profitable<br />

than new<br />

customers, yet<br />

many retailers<br />

are failing to<br />

measure the<br />

second sale and<br />

track the related<br />

customer<br />

variables<br />

In order to do that, retailers must think<br />

and analyse from a customer relationship<br />

perspective, not transaction sales.<br />

This will require CRM and tracking that<br />

enables retailers to answer key questions:<br />

• What categories and products did the<br />

customer shop from?<br />

• What category did the customer make<br />

their second purchase from?<br />

• How long was it before they made the<br />

second purchase?<br />

• What marketing messages did they<br />

receive, and what impact did they have on<br />

conversion?<br />

• What categories and products were the<br />

second purchase from?<br />

• How does that compare to other<br />

customers purchasing similar products?<br />

• What is the “basket of core products”<br />

that create the lifetime value for the<br />

customer?<br />

Having the ability to answer questions<br />

about individual customers creates<br />

a path to retention and profitable<br />

lifetime relationships.<br />

Amazon has mastered using data<br />

to convert multiple sales and build<br />

relationships through its Prime<br />

delivery service.<br />

Traditional retailers have built their<br />

customer relationships over decades<br />

through talented sales staff – but the<br />

key to continued success lies in CRM and<br />

a focus on turning one-time shoppers into<br />

lifetime customers.<br />

There is no single model for success;<br />

however, measuring and managing<br />

the second sale is a critical metric for<br />

changing the paradigm from acquisition<br />

to retention.<br />

CHRIS PETERSEN is founder and<br />

CEO of retail consultancy Integrated<br />

Marketing Solutions (IMS). Visit:<br />

imsresultscount.com<br />

Content marketing takes more effort than<br />

simply publishing one blog post on a subject;<br />

it requires you to think outside the box and<br />

look for opportunities to be creative.<br />

Yet as you build a ‘library’ of content, you will<br />

eventually encounter a different challenge:<br />

writer’s block, which will convince you that you<br />

don’t have anything new to say.<br />

While it’s unlikely you’ve written everything<br />

on one subject, revisiting and optimising<br />

your previous posts is one way to overcome<br />

impediments to your creative flow.<br />

This structured approach means your<br />

existing posts will reach a wider audience<br />

and your website will climb the searchengine<br />

rankings while you think of ideas for<br />

new content.<br />

Below are three methods to optimise your<br />

blog that are often overlooked but can quickly<br />

improve your digital marketing results.<br />

Update old blog posts<br />

There are a few different strategies for<br />

updating old content. The first step is to<br />

identify which posts you should update first;<br />

this will depend on the keywords users are<br />

searching to find your business.<br />

You can identify these keywords by looking<br />

at the terms you rank highest for on search<br />

engines like Google, the top keywords that<br />

draw people to your site from your Google My<br />

Business page, and the hashtags that attract<br />

the most interactions on social media.<br />

Try the below ideas and compare the<br />

analytics to see which one helps improve the<br />

search-engine rankings for your keywords:<br />

• SEO optimisation – Look at your most<br />

popular blog posts and review them for<br />

on-page SEO (search engine optimisation)<br />

opportunities. One of the best ways to do this<br />

is by using an SEO ‘checker’ tool, which you<br />

can download.<br />

These tools will do a lot of the heavy lifting<br />

when it comes to analysing your posts and<br />

offering suggestions for improvement.<br />

• Update images – Fresh photos should be<br />

added to your posts. Ensure each element<br />

Revitalising your business’ blog is an effective way to boost your Google ranking.<br />

is titled and described using the correct<br />

keywords.<br />

• Add new information – Visit the earliest<br />

posts on your blog and read the content.<br />

Ask yourself if the article still aligns with<br />

your business philosophy, current offers,<br />

services, and products. If it doesn’t,<br />

‘unpublish’ it and redirect the link to<br />

prevent any errors from occurring.<br />

If your blog post is still relevant, optimise<br />

it to get more clicks by adding internal<br />

links to recently published content, update<br />

any external links to recently published<br />

content, and update any statistics so they<br />

reflect the current year.<br />

Rewrite content to support the new<br />

statistics, and adjust the wording in the<br />

headers to incorporate ‘long-tail’ keywords<br />

– that is, keywords that are longer and<br />

more specific.<br />

Add infographics or video<br />

If you’re explaining more technical<br />

concepts to your audience, your points will<br />

be clearer when you show – rather than tell<br />

– information.<br />

Even when you incorporate text into ta blog<br />

post, your audience will likely skim your<br />

words as their eyes are drawn to images<br />

or videos.<br />

Social media analytics firm HubSpot found<br />

that in 2020, 81 per cent of businesses used<br />

video as part of their marketing strategy –<br />

up almost 20 per cent in one year.<br />

If your blog post<br />

is still relevant,<br />

optimise it to<br />

get more clicks<br />

by adding<br />

internal links<br />

to recently<br />

published<br />

content, update<br />

any external<br />

links to recently<br />

published<br />

content, and<br />

update any<br />

statistics so<br />

they reflect the<br />

current year<br />

According to Google, six out of 10 people<br />

would rather watch online videos than<br />

television and YouTube is the second-most<br />

viewed website on the Internet, after the<br />

Google search homepage.<br />

What’s more, viewers retain 95 per cent of<br />

a message when they watch it in a video,<br />

compared to 10 per cent when reading,<br />

according to Insivia.<br />

Adding infographics and video to your blog<br />

posts makes them more engaging for<br />

readers and will improve the ‘bounce rate’ –<br />

how quickly users click away from a page.<br />

Cracking the code<br />

Finally, one of the best things you can do to<br />

improve your search engine ranking is to<br />

make the context of your content as easy<br />

for Google’s AI to identify as possible –<br />

essentially, ensuring Google’s bots do not get<br />

confused and misclassify your website.<br />

In addition to classic SEO techniques, like<br />

incorporating headers and bulleted lists, you<br />

can add a schema markup and structured<br />

data – elements that a digital marketing<br />

professional can assist in implementing.<br />

Schema markup is simply a code that you<br />

put on your website to help search engines<br />

return more informative results for users.<br />

Meanwhile, structured data refers to highly<br />

organised information. When information is<br />

highly structured and predictable, search<br />

engines can more easily organise and display<br />

it in creative ways. Again, this is an element<br />

that is part of your website’s code, rather<br />

than information your readers will see.<br />

Once you’ve updated your blog content you<br />

will have new information to promote on<br />

social media and through email marketing.<br />

If you’re facing writer’s block, don’t give<br />

up! Rather than a new blog post, look into<br />

your archives and incorporate one or all of<br />

these strategies.<br />

BETH WALKER writes for US-based<br />

SMA Marketing, which specialises<br />

in digital marketing strategies for<br />

businesses. Visit: smamarketing.net<br />

53 | <strong>May</strong> <strong>2021</strong><br />

<strong>May</strong> <strong>2021</strong> | 54

My Bench<br />

David Hollanders<br />

Wild Trout Designer <strong>Jeweller</strong>s, Sydney, NSW<br />

Age 53 • Years in Trade 37 • Training Diploma in <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Manufacture from Bradford & Ilkley College, Yorkshire • First job Goldsmithing apprenticeship at<br />

Roy’s <strong>Jeweller</strong>s, Lancashire in 1983 • Other Qualifications City & Guilds <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Manufacture certification, Fellow of the Gemmological Association of Great<br />

Britain, and Diamond Setting Diploma from Sir John Cass College, London<br />




This bangle was a labour of love for a special lady who had<br />

recently been bereaved, losing the love of her life. The recycled<br />

gold used was hers, and the diamonds came from a variety of<br />

jewellery pieces that either belonged to her husband or were<br />

bought for her by him. I separated the diamonds by colour and<br />

pavé set them in sections. She wears it all day, every day and we<br />

recently made something similar for her daughter.<br />

4FAVOURITE GEMSTONE I can’t go past the<br />

vibrancy of a beautiful ruby.<br />

4FAVOURITE METAL 18-carat yellow gold. What’s<br />

not to love about a simple alloy that is both a<br />

pleasing colour and is very accommodating?<br />

4FAVOURITE TOOL Burnishers – how pleasing<br />

it is that two metals rubbed together can give a<br />

beautiful reflective finish!<br />

4BEST NEW TOOL DISCOVERY A few years ago,<br />

I discovered computer-assisted design (CAD). To<br />

start with it was difficult to learn, but over the<br />

years I’ve adapted my traditional skills to this<br />

modern medium.<br />

4BEST PART OF THE JOB Pleasing people.<br />

4WORST PART OF THE JOB Quoting.<br />

4BEST TIP FROM A JEWELLER Do it once,<br />

do it right.<br />

4BEST TIP TO A JEWELLER Do it once, do it right!<br />


Dust is the biggest concern.<br />

4LOVE JEWELLERY BECAUSE It never stops<br />

surprising me. I started my apprenticeship in<br />

goldsmithing at the age of 16, but I wasn’t ready<br />

for the discipline required for the role – and I<br />

was given the boot after less than a year! After<br />

trying a couple of other jobs, including a trainee<br />

stonemason, I decided that I really wanted to<br />

pursue my passion in jewellery making.<br />

After graduating from college in 1986, I landed<br />

a job at the Diamond Boutique in Maidenhead,<br />

Berkshire as a jobbing jeweller, progressing to<br />

mounter. Then, under the guidance of Anthony<br />

Hilbourne, I gained qualifications in gemmology,<br />

diamond grading and diamond setting.<br />

Even today, there is always something new<br />

to discover – even though in a busy modern<br />

workshop, we rarely get time to step back<br />

and reflect!<br />

55 | <strong>May</strong> <strong>2021</strong>


Soapbox<br />

Dispelling the myths and misconceptions<br />

about jewellery valuations<br />

RIKKI MCANDREW explores how jewellery valuations have evolved over time and<br />

what jewellers and consumers can expect from a modern valuation.<br />

As with most industries, jewellery<br />

valuation has been affected by the<br />

advances in technology in recent years<br />

and valuers have had to learn a host of new<br />

skills – to the benefit of jewellers and their<br />

customers alike.<br />

In days now long gone, producing valuations<br />

was a very different proposition. We didn’t<br />

have access to the technology we do today<br />

– including computers and digital cameras –<br />

so many older valuations are simply written<br />

documents without images.<br />

What’s more, the descriptions in these older<br />

valuations often lack detail, leaving too much<br />

room for misinterpretation and guesswork.<br />

The terminology used could be quite<br />

confusing to the layman, if not the trade;<br />

an old valuation might include a diamond<br />

colour described as ‘Jager’, ‘river’, ‘(top)<br />

Wesselton’ or ‘(top) cape’, rather than the<br />

alphabetical system in use today.<br />

However, since the foundation of the<br />

National Council of <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Valuers<br />

(NCJV), a system of standardisation is in<br />

place and continuously being improved.<br />

All jewellery valuations today must have a<br />

photograph and a full description, including<br />

weights and measurements – which are also<br />

frequently missing from old valuations!<br />

In terms of implementing these standards,<br />

the NCJV was the first jewellery valuer<br />

organisation in the world to develop its own<br />

accredited valuer course.<br />

Valuations are a critical source of<br />

information when it comes to identifying<br />

lost and stolen jewellery, especially<br />

when there is a dispute of provenance or<br />

ownership, or a police investigation.<br />

It is hard to argue against anything unique to<br />

an item such as a hallmark, an engraving,<br />

a chip, or anything else that the valuer<br />

observes and notes in the valuation.<br />

Of course, while valuations have come a long<br />

way, there are still limitations; for example,<br />

a set diamond can’t be graded higher than<br />

a G colour, therefore it may be necessary to<br />

remove the diamond for a more accurate<br />

grading as this could significantly impact the<br />

value of the overall piece.<br />

For this reason, it is necessary to educate<br />

consumers on this point and advocate for it<br />

to be done routinely.<br />

As retailers are often the ‘middleman’<br />

between consumers and valuers, the trade<br />

should also take these factors into account<br />

when advising their customers.<br />

There are a few other misconceptions that<br />

aren’t immediately obvious, but should be.<br />

Firstly, a valuer can’t simply look at a piece<br />

of jewellery and give a dollar value – nor can<br />

a professional valuation determine a piece’s<br />

previous retail value or its guaranteed<br />

second-hand/resale value.<br />

Valuations act as a reliable source of<br />

information which can then be interpreted<br />

as the basis for determining a second-hand<br />

value. Put simply, a seller must know and<br />

understand the market for the piece; the<br />

valuation simply tells them exactly what it is<br />

they are selling!<br />

A retail price can then be developed that<br />

includes a standard mark-up – something<br />

that is not taken into account in a valuation.<br />

Valuations of the same piece by different<br />

valuers almost certainly won’t have the<br />

same dollar value.<br />

Another important point is that valuers<br />

rarely have an advertised price list. One of<br />

the main reasons for this is variation – each<br />

valuation is unique, and while an average<br />

All jewellery<br />

valuations<br />

today must have<br />

a photograph<br />

and a full<br />

description,<br />

including<br />

weights and<br />

measurements<br />

– which are<br />

also frequently<br />

missing from<br />

old valuations!<br />

valuation takes one hour to complete, some<br />

can take eight hours or more!<br />

For more complex valuations, a piece of<br />

jewellery may also need to be shown to<br />

other valuers, wholesalers or antiques<br />

dealers for a second opinion.<br />

As a result, the NCJV does not monitor<br />

prices nor recommend a price range to its<br />

registered valuers.<br />

Still, it’s a question often asked, by jewellers<br />

and consumers alike: how much should a<br />

valuation cost? It’s similar to asking, how<br />

long is a piece of string?<br />

When developing their price structure,<br />

valuers will take into account the cost<br />

of purchasing and maintaining their<br />

gemmological equipment, indemnity<br />

insurance, continuing professional<br />

development, subscriptions to price<br />

guides and sales realisations, and NCJV<br />

membership fees.<br />

NCJV-registered valuers are professionally<br />

trained, and they deal in facts, not hopes<br />

or wishes. At the end of the day, the valuer<br />

signs a document which can be admitted to<br />

court; they can’t take into account what the<br />

client believes to be true, or what they were<br />

told when they bought a jewellery piece.<br />

There are still some in the jewellery<br />

industry who lack knowledge or experience<br />

with valuations, and this is where problems<br />

regularly arise. But there is no excuse<br />

for ignorance – and that’s what jewellery<br />

valuations are designed to prevent.<br />

Name: Rikki McAndrew FGAA Dip DT<br />

Company: McAndrew <strong>Jeweller</strong>y, and<br />

Australian <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Valuers<br />

Position: Director<br />

Location: Melbourne, VIC<br />

Years in Industry: 48<br />

57 | <strong>May</strong> <strong>2021</strong>


LOT 39 | 1.03 CARAT RADIANT<br />

To have the privilege of acquiring an Argyle pink diamond tender stone is a chance of a lifetime. Since the<br />

penultimate 2020 Argyle tender has elapsed, the ability of procuring a top Argyle investment diamond<br />

grows slimmer. Offer the signature novelty of an Argyle pink diamond with prestige and proven heritage.<br />

PinkKimberley.com.au<br />


E pink@samsgroup.com.au W samsgroup.com.au P 02 9290 2199<br />


Hooray! Your file is uploaded and ready to be published.

Saved successfully!

Ooh no, something went wrong!