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extraprima<br />
Saint-Estèphe | <strong>Bordeaux</strong><strong>2018</strong><br />
Saint-Estèphe<br />
97 – 98 CALON-SÉGUR Saint-Estèphe Parker 96 – 98 | Suckling 98 – 98 |<br />
WeinWisser 19 + /20<br />
Only 50 of Calon-Ségur’s 55 hectares are currently<br />
planted, and 45 are in production. This can be traced<br />
back to the comprehensive restructuration program<br />
that Madame Gasqueton in 2006 initiated together<br />
with the technical director Vincent Millet. Because<br />
the original vineyards were all planted with a classical low density of<br />
vines, furthermore many died rootstocks were taken out. So the average<br />
age of the vines today is about 22 years. In recent vintages,<br />
Vincent Millet has dramatically increased quality. The new cellar offers<br />
room for more precision, which can be clearly seen in <strong>2018</strong>.<br />
Luckily there was not much mildew, and because of clay in the subsoils,<br />
the vines were able to survive the dry phase well. Only 40 % of<br />
the production went into the Grand Vin, which consists of 65 % Cabernet<br />
Sauvignon, 17 % Merlot, 15 % Cabernet Franc and 3 % Petit<br />
Verdot. The Calon-Ségur is aged in 100 % new barrels and reached<br />
14.9 % alcohol, which by no means can be tasted or felt in the wine<br />
at all. Brilliant, solid color. Very sweet and offensive in the smell,<br />
highly aromatic and intense. In the mouth, Calon-Ségur carries great<br />
spiciness, lots of juice, and a racy, broad structure. Despite the high<br />
Cabernet share it belongs opulent and rich, with a saturated Merlot-velvety<br />
and intense red berry-cherry fruit, that is fat and dominant.<br />
Substantial length, extremely deep, and with excellent creaminess,<br />
this vintage has a very own character for Calon-Ségur, which<br />
reminds not very much of Saint-Estèphe due to its round nature.<br />
96 – 97 MONTROSE Saint-Estèphe Parker 96 – 98 | Suckling 98 – 99 |<br />
WeinWisser 19.5/20<br />
Due to the damp weather during flowering,<br />
Montrose had a lot of coulure (uneven insemination<br />
of the berries). 65 % of the vines are managed<br />
organically, so the mildew was also an issue<br />
on Montrose. Fortunately, there was no drought,<br />
but there were also some dried-out berries here and there (passerilage).<br />
In the end, only 25 hl per hectare were harvested from the 17 th<br />
of September to the 5 th of October, of which about 50 % found its<br />
way into the Grand Vin. It consists of 72 % Cabernet Sauvignon, 20 %<br />
Merlot, 6 % Cabernet Franc and 2 % Petit Verdot, aged in 60 % new<br />
barrels with 14.5 % alcohol. Dark, viscous color. Rich, dark-berryscented,<br />
compacted, and voluminous the <strong>2018</strong> Montrose smells on a<br />
cool side, yet it does not seem heavy or overly sweet as in a hot<br />
vintage. In the mouth, it has a round, creamy texture, with a dark<br />
berry fruit component, chocolate, tar, licorice, and coffee swings aswell<br />
within. Tight on the palate, with lots of intensity, long and<br />
spicy, full-bodied, and punchy, the Montrose shows a lot of style as<br />
usual. Everything is perfectly arranged, seems polished and elegant,<br />
sweet, compact, and with excellent length. A little more laxity and<br />
naturalness might give him more style and accessibility.<br />
23<br />
97 – 98 COS DESTOURNEL Saint-Estèphe Parker 97 – 100 |<br />
Suckling 98 – 99 | WeinWisser 18.5/20<br />
At Cos d’Estournel only 30 hl per hectare were<br />
harvested due to the common problems of the<br />
vintage. Because of the drought in summer, the<br />
berries of the Cabernet Sauvignon were extremely<br />
small and with little juice. In contrast,<br />
the proportion of skin in the must was quite high, which had to be<br />
extracted more gently. Therefore a sure instinct was needed. Harvested<br />
from the 19 th of September to the 6 th of October, the Grand<br />
Vin consists of 74 % Cabernet Sauvignon, 23 % Merlot, 2 % Cabernet<br />
Franc and 1 % Petit Verdot. It ages in 50 % new barrels and reached<br />
14.6 % alcohol. Black color, with high-density and a huge amount of<br />
dark-berry, rich and cool fruit, the Cos d’Estournel boasts an impressive<br />
nose. Meaty, deep, and long, it has a big extraction in the<br />
mouth, very full-bodied, with lots of intensity, noble dark-berry<br />
fruit, and great breed. The fine-grained tannins are very elegant and<br />
deeply structured with cool finesse and very good length. Interestingly<br />
enough, the Cos d’Estournel has significantly more Cabernet<br />
flavor in its aroma than the Calon-Ségur.<br />
94 – 95 CAPBERN Saint-Estèphe Parker 91 – 93 | Suckling 92 – 93 |<br />
The Capbern-Meyney-Festival in Saint-Estèphe<br />
continues. Easily, in the vintage quartet 2015 –<br />
<strong>2018</strong>, these two Châteaux dominate the top of the<br />
Cru Bourgeois! Capbern <strong>2018</strong> consists of 62 % Cabernet<br />
Sauvignon, 37 % Merlot, and 1 % Petit Verdot<br />
with 14.6 % alcohol. Of the 38 hectares of vineyards<br />
only 29 are in production with an average<br />
age of 17 years; the yield was 41 hl per hectare. The Capbern has a<br />
dark color. It presents a rich, powerful, velvety, and full-bodied, luscious<br />
nose with terrific sweetness. Saturated, taut, and crystal clear,<br />
it starts in the mouth and is just as powerful with racy tannins and<br />
a lot of tension as the nose was promising. A great effort and an<br />
unbelievably cheap <strong>Bordeaux</strong> for which there is hardly any competitively<br />
comparable wine in any other winegrowing area!<br />
Ratings in red and all descriptions by Thomas Boxberger © 2019. Other ratings: Suckling = James Suckling | Parker = Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate<br />
Translation of the wine descriptions: Thomas Boxberger and Leo Constantin von Schaabner