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<strong>Bordeaux</strong><strong>2018</strong> | White wines extraprima<br />
86<br />
Château Haut-Brion, Jean-Philippe Delmas, Prince Robert<br />
of Luxembourg and Francois Capdemourlin (Château Quintus)<br />
<strong>Bordeaux</strong>, Graves und Péssac-Léognan – Weißweine<br />
99 – 100 HAUT-BRION BLANC Péssac-Léognan blanc Parker 94 – 96 |<br />
Suckling 95 – 96 | WeinWisser 19.5/20<br />
In <strong>2018</strong>, one of the best white Haut-Brions of the<br />
past two decades has emerged. With 80.6 %, the<br />
proportion of Sauvignon Blanc in the assemblage<br />
is unusually high, because the Sémillon aromatically<br />
was less expressive this year. Therefore, the<br />
Haut-Brion tastes like a pure Sauvignon Blanc.<br />
Usually, the assemblage ratio of the two grape varieties is instead<br />
divided into half. With about 580 cases, it is an average production,<br />
the second wine La Clarté instead rose to a remarkable 1400 cases.<br />
Given the quite large harvest, the Grand Vin was rigorously selected.<br />
The 14.4 % alcohol isn’t evident as well as the discreetly used<br />
new wood, hardly more than 50 – 60 %. It was picked from 27 th<br />
August to 5 th September. The white Haut-Brion by the color it shines<br />
in the glass, rich and intense it smells, enormously full and exotic,<br />
with incredibly deep Citrus notes. Fresh herbs and a touch of spices<br />
follow, very taut and with greenish shimmering nuances. Rich and<br />
fat, it also starts in the mouth, quite ripe, with creamy intensity,<br />
densely woven and with a taut bite of extract and acidity, citrus, ripe<br />
lemons, and limes are burning on the tongue. Stretched, widespread,<br />
and long on the palate, very racy structured and with excellent<br />
grip, which has a little tannin spice, the Haut-Brion shines to a<br />
majestic taste experience. Enormously long, multi-faceted, and biting<br />
in the finish, the Haut-Brion tastes for minutes, quite salty and<br />
mineral, with enormous force and breathtaking play. The second<br />
wine La Clarté is recommended to anyone for whom this lesson of<br />
acidity-kick, intensity, and tension remains financially unattainable.<br />
Winemakers, however, should not miss this aromatic training of<br />
Haut-Brion, no matter what it costs — put together, guys! This is the<br />
limit of what Sauvignon Blanc can be!<br />
97 – 98 LA MISSION HAUT-BRION BLANC Péssac-Léognan blanc<br />
Parker 92 – 94 | Suckling 97 – 98 | WeinWisser 18/20<br />
The white La Mission Haut-Brion usually consists<br />
of about 80 % Sémillon and 20 % Sauvignon<br />
Blanc. Since the aromatic profile of Sémillon presented<br />
less expressive in <strong>2018</strong>, its share in the<br />
assemblage shrank to 42.6 %, with 57.4 % Sauvignon<br />
Blanc. The production is above the average<br />
size of 620 boxes. It was harvested from 27 th<br />
August to 5 th September. Rich and yellow-fruity, the La Mission<br />
smells with plenty of fat, delicate citrus, and lime flavors, as well as<br />
subtle notes of spices. Very deep and lush, it is built on opulence.<br />
Dense, full, and meaty, it shows in the mouth an enormous, creamy<br />
body with a substantial, complete centerpiece. Wide-ranging and<br />
long-arranged, with high intensity and mineral pressure, it pushes<br />
on tight-knit structured, while remaining elegant and complex,<br />
therefore exceptionally full-bodied without being heavy. Long-lasting,<br />
multi-faceted, and complex, La Mission continues on the palate.<br />
With 14 % alcohol, it seems somehow easy, despite its considerable<br />
weight and body. As so often, a fascinatingly paradoxical character<br />
wine, which has to give Haut-Brion the lead.<br />
Ratings in red and all descriptions by Thomas Boxberger © 2019. Other ratings: Suckling = James Suckling | Parker = Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate<br />
Translation of the wine descriptions: Thomas Boxberger and Leo Constantin von Schaabner