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<strong>Bordeaux</strong><strong>2018</strong> | Saint-Emilion<br />
extraprima<br />
72<br />
93 – 94 CLOS DE L’ORATOIRE Saint-Emilion Suckling 94 – 95 |<br />
The Clos de l’Oratoire was harvested from the<br />
21 st of September to the 4 th of October, with 85 %<br />
Merlot and 15 % Cabernet Franc in the assemblage<br />
with 13.5 % alcohol. After 30 days of maceration,<br />
it was aged in 45 % new barrels. The Clos<br />
de l’Oratoire is dense and firm, chalky and deep, with excellent<br />
transparency and spiciness, very structured and long. The fruit was<br />
somewhat closed on a rainy day at my only en primeur tasting.<br />
93 – 94 BERLIQUET Saint-Emilion Parker 93 – 95 | Suckling 94 – 95 |<br />
It was a smart move by Canon to buy the neighbor Berliquet. Because<br />
on the one hand, this estate was clearly undervalued so far,<br />
although the outstanding terroir lies on the limestone plateau between<br />
Canon and Quintus. One-third of the vineyard area lies on<br />
the plateau and two-thirds on the slopes below. At present, 7 hectares<br />
are in production, and possibly new plantings will lead to a<br />
mix of 50/50 Merlot and Cabernet Franc, so the goal. At present,<br />
large plots are planted mixed with both grape varieties, which<br />
makes cultivation and harvesting more difficult. The <strong>2018</strong> consists<br />
of 78 % Merlot and 22 % Cabernet Franc, it is aged in 45 % new barrels<br />
with an alcohol level of 14.5 %. Dark color. Dense, rich, and<br />
saturated, with a lot of juice and depth, very differentiated and<br />
clear, very taut, long, and with a great deep structure, always wide<br />
open on the palate. Retasted at Canon, the Berliquet appeared unusually<br />
rough, compact, and rustic.<br />
93 – 94 CLOS DE SARPE Saint-Emilion Parker 94 – 96 | Suckling 94 – 95 |<br />
One-third of the Clos de Sarpe vines are about 22 to 45 years old and<br />
two thirds 65 to 85 years old. At 20 hl per hectare, the yield was pretty<br />
low, and the blend consists of 85 % Merlot and 15 % Cabernet Franc.<br />
About 10 % was fermented in 600-liter tonneaux, the rest in concrete<br />
tanks, the aging takes place in 70 % new barriques. The Clos de Sarpe<br />
has a black color, a sweet, dark berry cassis fruit in the nose, a liqueur-like<br />
orientation, but limited depth. Tight and salty, the Clos de<br />
Sarpe shows a hard acidity and enormous tension in the mouth, very<br />
dense and fleshy, with a lot of strength and fullness, good length, and<br />
a dry finish.<br />
93 – 94 CALICEM Saint-Emilion Suckling 94 – 95 |<br />
In 2015, the Château Couvent des Jacobins bought an adjoining plot<br />
of just under one hectare. The Merlot vines were planted on clay<br />
and sand with limestone splinters in 1961. This is the origin of Calicem.<br />
The <strong>2018</strong> Calicem was harvested at 22-25 hl per hectare and<br />
fermented in new 500-liter tonneaux. Black color. Massive in the<br />
nose with lots of intensity. Viscous and substantial in the mouth,<br />
very deep and dense, broadly defined, sweet, and very fresh, with<br />
large structure and depth, with chocolaty notes, tar, and graphite.<br />
93 – 94 LE CARRÉ Saint-Emilion Parker 93 – 95 | Suckling 93 – 94 |<br />
The excellent portfolio of Jonathan Maltus could<br />
already shine with a surprising Teyssier (92 – 93).<br />
The vineyard-selections are even better. Le Carré<br />
is situated on a plateau with clay soil and covers<br />
1 hectare. It consists of 85 % Merlot and 15 % Cabernet<br />
Franc with 14.8 % alcohol. Dense, saturated, and full-bodied,<br />
Le Carré is very deep and spicy, revealing a bit of alcohol. Full-bodied<br />
on the palate, long and with plenty of juice, it has racy acidity, a<br />
powerful midpalate and slightly austere, fine-grained, transparent<br />
tannins. Followed by plenty of juice in the aftertaste, good firm<br />
structure, somewhat light-toned aroma.<br />
93 – 94 CHERUBIN Saint-Emilion<br />
Cherubin is a small project by Bertrand Bourdil, who previously<br />
worked as a cellar master at Mouton-Rothschild. The 2.5 hectares<br />
are not far from Angélus, <strong>2018</strong> was harvested on the 28 th of September<br />
with about 13.7 % alcohol. Dark color. The Cherubin possesses<br />
a dark, fresh, fleshy fruit, is quite clear and transparent, with melty<br />
and generous fullness in the smell. In the mouth, it shows racy tannins,<br />
a dense core, and large tension, or trame, as the Frenchman<br />
says. Its racy structure is melting on the palate, salty-mineral and<br />
long, deep, and with a caramel-like complexity in the overtones.<br />
This wine should reach 94 points after the bottling.<br />
93 – 94 CLOS DES JACOBINS Saint-Emilion Suckling 93 – 94 |<br />
Decanter 90 |<br />
The Clos des Jacobins consists of 83 % Merlot, 14 % Cabernet Franc<br />
and 1 % Cabernet Sauvignon, and is aged in 75 % new barrels. Massive<br />
viscous color. Full, sweet, dense, intense, round, and melty at<br />
the beginning, it shows a lot of power and fullness, extremely chocolaty,<br />
with little to no core-aroma. The tannins dominate and remain<br />
absolutely dull, a little acidity, with a lot of body, and good<br />
length in the mouth. For lovers of Pavie, the Clos des Jacobins<br />
would be an interesting, inexpensive alternative.<br />
93 – 94 CLOS DUBREUIL Saint-Emilion Suckling 92 – 93 |<br />
WeinWisser 18.5/20<br />
The Clos Dubreuil consists of the classic 80/20<br />
blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc. 20 % of the<br />
grapes were fermented in new open barriques<br />
and later aged in them (vinification integrale).<br />
Black, viscous color. Dense, sweet, provocative,<br />
with a lot of Cabernet-fruit in the nose, with liqueur-like extract-sweetness,<br />
a bit tar, and cassis, deep and inviting. Dense, racy,<br />
and harmonious in the mouth, it has plenty of juice, dark berry notes,<br />
and ripe, liqueur-like and fat aromas, somewhat dull, dry tannins,<br />
good spice with some graphite, it is complex and rich, and quite long.<br />
Ratings in red and all descriptions by Thomas Boxberger © 2019. Other ratings: Suckling = James Suckling | Parker = Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate<br />
Translation of the wine descriptions: Thomas Boxberger and Leo Constantin von Schaabner