AA TRAVELLER WINTER 2021

traveller
R65
WINTER 2021
GOT GAME?
Get creative with
these 8 recipes
5
CHANGES
THAT
CAN LOWER
SA'S FUEL PRICE
O%
ALCOHOL ON
THE ROAD
How it affects you
DRIVING
TECHNIQUES
FOR WINTER
This is how you
shoot the stars in
SUTHERLAND
Experience a
different Namibia
after the rain
PAY A VISIT TO
■ Golden Gate ■ The Kruger ■ Bermanzi ■ Kaapsehoop

WINTER 2021
R65
How it affects you
traveller
GOT GAME?
Get creative with
these 8 recipes
CHANGES THAT
5 CAN LOWER
SA'S FUEL PRICE
DRIVING
TECHNIQUES
FOR WINTER
This is how you
shoot the stars in
SUTHERLAND
Experience a
different Namibia
after the rain
PAY A VISIT TO
■ Golden Gate ■ The Kruger ■ Bermanzi ■ Kaapsehoop
O%
ALCOHOL ON
THE ROAD
EDITOR
Gerda Engelbrecht
gerda.engelbrecht@media24.com
ART DIRECTOR
Sally Cronjé
ASSISTANT EDITOR
Petro-Anne Vlok
Making
memories on
another winter
holiday – Gerda
enjoys a cup of
hot chocolate
on Mount Titlis
in Switzerland
(this was before
Covid-19,
naturally).
From the editor
REPRODUCTION
Dewald Spies
Kurt Ohlson
PRODUCTION
Kerry Nash
CEO: MEDIA24
Ishmet Davidson
CEO: PRINT MEDIA
Minette Ferreira
GM: LIFESTYLE
Nerisa Coetzee
GROWTH MANAGER
Lise Coetsee
FINANCE MANAGER
Jameelah Conway
CIRCULATION MANAGER
Armand Kasselman
BUSINESS MANAGER – SALES
Danie Nell
danie.nell@media24.com
GENERAL ENQUIRIES
Amina Essop
amina.essop@media24.com
COVER IMAGE
JAY CABOZ
PRINTED BY
CTP PRINTERS
The unique charm
of winter holidays
The spring
issue of AA
Traveller will be
distributed in the
first week
of September.
It's one of my favourite memories from my youth, and till this day, my mom loves to tell
this story. I'm the youngest of four children, and my parents have always been crazy about
travelling. As is custom, the school holiday in June is when Capetonians flock to the Kruger.
At the time, money was tight (small wonder with four children attending school!), but after my
dad retired, he bought a second-hand VW Camper, and he and my mom toured through the
whole country.
He later traded in the Camper for a teardrop caravan that he towed with his Toyota Tazz. My
dad (now deep in his eighties) still says with a longing look in his eyes that his next set of
wheels will be a delivery vehicle, and he will transform it into a mobile home. "All you need is a
mattress and a small fridge!"
All six of us would pile into the Kombi for holidays, with a very large, heavy tent between us.
On one of these Kombi holidays – I was small and had just started school – we spent one night
in Britstown in the Karoo. It was the middle of winter and a thick, white layer blanketed the
dull-coloured grass of the caravan park. My parents slept in the tent, which we had to pitch in
the dark, while my siblings and I slept in the Kombi. One of us had to lie on the front passenger
bench. The rest of us slept in the back of the luggage compartment, which could change into
a sleeping area when you collapsed the back bench. Earlier in the day, my middle brother had
claimed the front bench for himself. "Three people can't fit in the back," he firmly stated. Deep
into the night, we were awoken by the sound of my brother's chattering teeth.
"Come, climb in here with us," my sister invited him, which he gladly did. The next
morning, while holding a tin mug of steaming coffee, he proclaimed: "Three people
can fit in the back. Actually, if need be, four people could also fit in the back..." For
the rest of the holiday, we didn't have any issues with sleeping arrangements.
I hope you make wonderful memories this winter.
Gerda
Gerda_travel
3
DISTRIBUTED BY
ON THE DOT
Published by Media24,
a division of NASPERS.
40 Heerengraght,
CAPE TOWN 8001
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
What do you think about the government's new regulation
that lowers the legal alcohol limit for drivers to zero?
AA Traveller would love to hear from you, and we gladly
accept letters, feedback and article contributions from
readers. Write to us at aa@media24.com or send an email
directly to Gerda at gerda.engelbrecht@media24.com.
WINTER 2021 | AA Traveller

12
40
Contents
70
4
3
The joy of winter holidays
Gerda recalls a cold night in Brits.
6
The AA at your service
Have a blast while learning
how to be a better driver.
7
What has the AA been up to?
Willem shines light on exciting new
developments and important issues.
8
Tune in, dear member
Layton talks about the
AA’s new podcasts.
10
This is how government can
lower the fuel price
The AA puts forward
five suggestions.
TRAVEL
12
From Cape Town to Epupa
Expecting a desert, Jay Caboz
was surprised by Namibia’s
lush green landscapes after
an unusually rainy season.
20
Glamping in the Kruger
Camping doesn’t have
to be a hassle.
24 Kaapsehoop
Mia Louw gets to know this quaint town.
30
Golden Gate
This national park has so much
on offer, it warrants a return
visit, says Evan Naudé.
36
Take a breather in Bermanzi
It's said to be the "prettiest"
hike in the area.
40
Shoot for the stars
Gerda spends one night in Sutherland
to test the new Canon EOS Ra.
LIFESTYLE
46
Take stunning landscape photos
Sam Reinders shares 10 tips on how
to improve your photography.
.
52
To the shops
Fancy food for the trail and
buy something for dad.
56
These recipes are wild
Use game meat from the hunting
season to make these delicious dishes.
62 Books
Choose your next trip and be
inspired by Grandma Gatewood.
MOTORING
64
Scale down
Need to tighten the purse strings?
Consider an alternative model.
69
First impressions
We test drive the Kia Picanto X-Line,
the twins: Toyota Urban Cruiser and
Suzuki Vitara Brezza, the Ford Figo
Freestyle and the AudiQ3 Sportback
74
Driving techniques
Snow, mud, rain and gravel – driving
tips to help prevent accidents.
78
Behind the wheel with
zero alcohol
The AA explains why it won’t
make a difference.
80
Play along
A Crossword, sudoku and a quiz
for when you’re staying in
82
Last word
This is how you fit four
friends and their luggage
into a Opel Kadett.
AA Traveller | WINTER 2021

The AA at your service
ACCREDITED
SALES AGENTS
GET IN
TOUCH
To update your
AA membership details,
phone 0861 000 234,
send an email to
aasa@aasa.co.za or
visit aa.co.za
EASTERN CAPE
Travel Experience, Port Elizabeth:
041 368 6452
Harvey World Travel, East London:
043 726 0601
FREE STATE
Travel Experience, Bloemfontein:
051 444 0571
6
THE AA IS ON CALL 24/7!
CALL 0861 000 234
JOIN THE WORLD’S FIRST
SMART DRIVING CHALLENGE
Are you ready to participate in a new, unique competition that rewards smart,
safe and environmentally-friendly driving? Sign up for the challenge and have
a blast while you help make the world a safer and cleaner place.
The FIA Smart Driving Challenge is a
worldwide competition that rewards
smart, safe and eco-friendly driving.
Equipped with a smartphone app
connected to a digital platform,
regular motorists can compete to
become the world’s smartest driver
by using their own car.
When registering, participants
will join teams led by racing stars.
These prestigious team leaders will
share tips with participants on how
to improve their smart skills at the
wheel. Ultimately, the best drivers
will face each other in a final to win
the challenge.
HOW DO I PARTICIPATE?
1. Sign up for the FIA SDC season.
2. Download the FIA SDC app on
your smartphone and connect
to your car via Bluetooth. If your
car does not have Bluetooth, you
will receive a plug-in/hardware
to connect. The plug-in works
independent in diesel and petrol
cars made 2001 (EU)/1996 (US)
or later.
3. Choose your team.
4. Compete during your everyday
driving!
Stay up to date with the latest industry news by following the AA on
Facebook: AASouthAfrica, Twitter: AASouthAfrica or at aa.co.za
GAUTENG
Travel Experience, Menlyn:
012 348 2522
Travel Experience, Benmore:
011 884 4104
Travel Experience, Park Meadows:
011 615 7946
AA Cresta:
011 478 5312
Travel Experience, Boksburg:
074 175 2709
Travel Experience, Centurion:
012 653 5513
Voetspore 4×4, Mega World:
012 940 8999
AA Foreign Travel, Kyalami:
011 799 1042
KWAZULU-NATAL
Travel Experience, Musgrave:
031 201 5244
Travel Experience, La Lucia:
031 572 7852
Harvey World Travel, Shelly Beach:
039 315 6330
MPUMALANGA
Dana Travel Agency, Nelspruit:
013 753 3571
WESTERN CAPE
Club Travel, Tyger Valley:
021 914 2265
Constantiaberg Travel:
021 715 2850
Travel Experience, Cavendish
Square: 021 683 1410
Harvey World Travel, George:
044 874 6930
AA Traveller | WINTER 2021

Let’s all be safe
out there
Letter from the AA CEO
Dear Member,
The AA recently held an outdoor event
in Muldersdrift for cyclists and runners.
Our purpose was to meet the public. It’s
something I am keen on expanding as often
as we can. Being on the road and interacting
with the public, I think, is a necessary part of
who we are. While we were there, we spoke
to people about the new digital AA and our
new standalone Rem-i Amica panic button.
It was an amazing day with singing and
dancing at our two stands – I even ended up
dancing next to the road – and we met some
incredible people. The cycling and running
community are extremely welcoming; we
had a wonderful day interacting with them.
The Rem-i Amica remote panic button is a
small device (it fits in the palm of your hand)
that allows users to push a button to summon
security or medical services from any one
of the 180 security service providers who
work with us. It’s a fantastic device which, we
IN ADDITION TO PROVIDING EXCELLENT
BENEFITS TO OUR MEMBERS, WE ALSO
STRIVE FOR THE RIGHTS OF ROAD USERS.
believe, provides essential security to those
on the road enjoying their favourite activities.
I mention this because it’s part of a new
digital direction the AA is taking to ensure
you are always safe. We still provide the
trusted roadside and medical services – we’ll
never stop doing that – but we’re adding
more products, driven by technology, to
make your lives easier and safer.
While on the topic of safety, it struck me
that too many of my fellow cyclists and
runners are still at risk when they’re on the
road. Road safety is a huge problem in our
country, but we can only address it effectively
if we all play our part. That means as runners
and cyclists we must be aware of other
traffic and road users (including, of course,
pedestrians), and we must always make
ourselves visible. At the same time, motorists
need to respect that cyclists and runners
share the road with them and have as much
right to be there as anyone else. These are
important issues, and I urge everyone who
uses the road to play their part.
Apart from providing our Members with
outstanding benefits and services, we’ve
also been busy championing the rights of
road users in Parliament. In March, we made
presentations to the Parliamentary Portfolio
Committee on Transport relating to the
proposals to lower to the blood alcohol levels
for motorists to zero, and in early April we
made representations to the Parliamentary
Portfolio Committee on Mineral Resources
and Energy on our thoughts regarding how to
better manage fuel prices in the country.
There are articles in this edition which give
you more on these presentations and our
positions on them. It is worth noting, though,
that both issues – and many more – are
issues we believe we need to comment
on because they are in the public interest.
Our starting point is always how consumers
will be affected, and we offer solutions we
think are in the consumers’ best interests.
That we have been invited to speak at these
important meetings is testimony to the value
of the AA and the esteem in which its opinion
is held.
Lastly, as I always do, I’d like to encourage
you to download and install the AA app
which is available in all mobile stores. It
enables you to easily update your information
with us and allows you to stay up to date with
our latest and upcoming developments. Best
of all is that it enables us to reach you quickly
when you need us and not keep you on hold
in your time of need.
As I mentioned in my previous letter, the
AA is moving forward, and we are taking you
with us. It’s going to be an exciting journey;
one I know will make your life better.
Until next time.
Willem
WILLEM GROENEWALD IS THE
CEO OF THE AASA
7
WINTER 2021 | AA Traveller

Opinion
Getting our message out there
for your benefit
BY LAYTON BEARD, PR MANAGER, AA SOUTH AFRICA
8
The AA provides a range of services and
benefits to its Members to keep them on
the road, to keep them safe and to look
after them in the event of any motor or
personal security issues. There’s a lot
the AA does to ensure that this happens smoothly,
and a huge amount of time and effort is invested
in ensuring our products and services meet the
requirements of our Members and non-Members.
But that’s not all we do. As I mentioned in my
previous column, a critical part of the work we do
is advocacy for road safety and advocating for the
rights of consumers. For instance, the AA speaks on
issues related to fuel price increases and decreases
because these have a direct impact on all consumers’
lives. Another issue is road safety: How safe are our
country’s roads, is enough being done to reduce
crashes and fatalities, is what is being done the right
way forward or is planned legislation appropriate?
We speak on these issues through various
channels, and I’m sure many of you have seen, read
or heard the AA being quoted on a range of topics.
But we know that our message on road safety and
championing the rights of consumers isn’t always
going to hit the headlines, especially if there are
other major events happening around South Africa
or the world.
Getting your message out as effectively as possible
is important to us and, we believe, important for
the South African public. It’s one of the reasons we
started producing podcasts highlighting key issues
and our advocacy efforts. A podcast is an audio
recording made available on various platforms and
forms part of a series of instalments. Podcasts are
also available on smartphones, so you don’t need to
fire up your computer to listen to them.
Our podcast is called AA Connect and is also
available as a video file through our YouTube
channel which you can find at youtube.com/c/
aasouthafrica/featured.
We’ve produced several podcasts since December
2020 and will continue to produce many more
in the months ahead. You can find them on all
popular podcast hosting sites such as Spotify,
Google Podcasts, Player.fm, Apple Podcasts
and Deezer, and they don’t cost you anything
to download or listen to (except, of course, any
internet charges). Another benefit is that you can
download the podcasts on your phone and listen to
them in your car.
Many automobile clubs around the world also
have podcasts like ours, and they are all relatively
new. So far, we’ve produced podcasts on the need
for child restraints in vehicles, on issues relating
to insurance, on personal security and on e-tolls.
We’ve just completed two new podcasts: one dealing
with safety and security concerns for runners and
cyclists and another dealing with safety and security
concerns for older adults. The information is
intended to inform and educate, and I urge you to
take some time to listen or watch them.
The AA has been around for more than 90 years,
and we continue to provide immense peace-ofmind
to thousands of people every day. But the AA
is looking ahead to the next 90 years, forging new
products and services to improve the lives of all
its Members to make them safer, more secure and
better equipped to deal with any emergency. Join
us on AA Connect and we’ll show you how this is
being done.
Catch you next time.
Layton
FollowLayton on
Twitter @LaytonBeard
Main photo: Getty Images/Gallo Images
AA Traveller | WINTER 2021

Five things
government must
do to reduce fuel
prices in SA
IT WON’T BE EASY, BUT THE AA BELIEVES THAT BY REVALUATING THE
CURRENT PRICING MODEL AND WORKING WITH THE PRIVATE SECTOR,
THE GOVERNMENT CAN BRING DOWN THE PRICE OF FUEL.
10
Providing cheaper fuels to South African
citizens will not happen with the flick of
a switch. It will require a multi-faceted,
multi-departmental approach with the
involvement of the private sector. This is
the view of the AA.
In April, amid record high prices for fuel in
South Africa, the AA made representations to the
Parliamentary Portfolio Committee on Mineral
Resources and Energy on how to mitigate rising
fuel costs.
“Our view is clear that a comprehensive, longterm
analysis of the components of the fuel price
needs to be done as a matter of urgency, and
that all calculations relating to the fuel price be
audited to determine if they are still relevant and
appropriate to South African conditions,” says
Willem Groenewald, CEO of the AA.
Apart from focusing on the fuel price itself,
Groenewald says extensive research must be
conducted into every single element of the fuel
value chain which contributes to the fuel price in
South Africa. Alternatives must be sought if any
elements are deemed too expensive, and each cent
which is being charged must be justified.
Key recommendations
To mitigate the rising fuel costs, the AA made
the following recommendations to the Portfolio
Committee:
1. An investigation into the current pricing
model.
2. Recalculating and auditing the existing
elements within the pricing model.
AA Traveller | WINTER 2021

Special report
In April, fuel
prices hit
record highs.
The goverment
needs to find
ways to lower
the cost of fuel
in South Africa,
says the AA.
“Our view is clear that
a comprehensive, longterm
analysis of the
components of the fuel
price needs to be done as
a matter of urgency, and
that all calculations
relating to the fuel price
be audited to determine
if they are still relevant
and appropriate to South
African conditions.”
3. The cost of the Road Accident
Fund (RAF) must be reduced.
This can be done through better
management and governance of the
fund; improved road safety to reduce
demand; better policing; safer roads, drivers
and cars; better post-crash intervention; better
pedestrian safety education and privatisation of
the RAF (or at a minimum the semi-privatisation
of claims management).
4. Funds from the General Fuel Levy (GFL)
should be better allocated and used, and issues of
good governance that impact the economy and
the R/USD exchange rate must be looked at.
5. There should be more investment in
alternatives to the country’s current reliance on
fuel. For example, Transnet should be improved
Visit
aa.co.za or
aasa.mobi
for more
information.
to alleviate reliance on road freight. Provisions
should be made for safe, reliable, sustainable and
affordable public transport, and roads should be
made safe for non-motorised forms transport.
We need change
If the current pricing model needs an overhaul,
so be it, says the AA. Groenewald explains: “Our
aim is to fight for the rights of consumers, and if
that means we have to take a step back and relook
how we’re doing things then that’s what needs to
happen. Continuing with a pricing model because
it’s historically the one we’ve always used doesn’t
make sense; we must ask if there is a better model
available and, if there is, we should consider
replacing our existing one.”
For example, an area that needs to be reviewed
is the General Fuel and RAF levies. Groenewald
explains that these levies contribute significantly
to every litre of fuel sold, but citizens don’t see
tangible benefits from these taxes.
“Currently R6,11 on every litre of fuel is taxed,
but there are several questions relating to the
allocation and utilisation of these funds. For
instance, we continue to fund the RAF through
fuel taxes, but it is poorly managed, and a drain
on our country’s resources. Apart from poor
management, have we fully explored alternatives
to compensate victims of crashes, and, critically,
has the private sector been consulted for their
inputs?” Groenewald asks.
Another major issue is road safety and
its associated costs. Government’s last
estimate in 2015 was that road crashes
cost the economy around R150bn
annually. But, Groenewald says, there
must be more of a focus on claims
management, and on preventing the
need for compensation in the first place.
“We are being taxed to pay victims of
crashes, but nothing is being done to prevent
crashes. It’s the same with the GFL. Money is
being collected, but there is little evidence of good
governance in its allocation or utilisation. Citizens
have rightly questioned why they should be paying
so much when they don’t see the results of what
they’re paying for. It’s unfair,” he notes.
The AA says private sector involvement in
dealing with rising fuel costs has now become
inevitable, and that it remains committed to
working with government in the interest of
consumers.
11
WINTER 2021 | AA Traveller

The magical
baobab trees at
Epupa Falls.
12
After
Photojournalist Jay Caboz expected scorched deserts
when he recently travelled to Namibia,
AA Traveller | WINTER 2021

Namibia
the rains
13
but unprecedented rainfall had transformed our arid neighbour into a green oasis.
>
WINTER 2021 | AA Traveller

Namibia
The Kunene
River is the
source of the
Epupa Falls
14
Namibia is blistering hot in
summer. This may be the
most obvious statement ever,
but until you’ve travelled
through this country and
experienced the scorching heat for
yourself, you just can’t relate. It catches
you completely off guard. It’s
the kind of heat that saps the
energy out of your bones, and
you yearn for the cool reprieve of
an air-conditioned car. At 44°C,
Namibia takes heat to another
level; so much so that sweat seems
to cascade down your back as soon
as you step out of your 4x4.
But Namibia is also exquisitely
beautiful, so you bear the heat, or
you try to forget about it. Case in
point – standing on the edge of
the majestic Epupa Falls as golden
light falls on the ancient baobab trees
that grip the ledges of the falls, I’m left
speechless. I’ve never seen anything like
it. To reach this spot, I’ve had to drive
5 200 km from my home in Cape Town
to the northern most reaches of Namibia.
The distance, the heat, the sweat... it was
all worth it just to be able to get lost in
the natural splendour of the falls.
Namibia should be on every landscape
photographer’s bucket list. This stark,
arid country is home to stunning scenery
and is famous for its desolate landscapes.
What I anticipated was a dry, desert
country. What I got instead was a lush,
green oasis.
Shadowfax, the
Toyota Fortuner
A few months ago, it rained – a lot.
After years of drought, the National
Aeronautics and Space Administration
(NASA) reported January rainfall that
was two to three times the norm in the
north-eastern, central and southern
parts of Namibia. In certain areas the
downpours were so intense, some claim
it’s the biggest rainfall they’ve had in over
20 years. Dams filled and locals lounged
on lilos on flooded desert saltpans.
Nothing can fully prepare you for the
northern parts of this epic country. It’s
an area I think more South Africans
should explore and appreciate. Unique
landmarks, like the Epupa Falls and its
baobabs trees, are exactly why
our group of four landscape
photographers crammed into
Shadowfax (our mile-crunching
Toyota Fortuner named after the
trusty steed from The Lord of the
Rings) and headed to northern
Namibia.
Hitting the road
We travelled about 1 700 km
from Cape Town to our first
stop in northern Namibia – the
Spitzkoppe Tented Camp and
Campsites. Along the way, we drove past
spellbinding scenery, the abandoned
ghost town of Kolmanskop and Sossusvlei,
the home of monster-sized dunes.
The campsite is located just outside the
Spitzkoppe Conservation Area, and a visit
to the reserve is well worth it. After paying
a R80 conservation fee (as well as R80
per vehicle), we drove to the giant peaks >
AA Traveller | WINTER 2021

Golden light at
Spitzkoppe
Travel in the time of a
global pandemic
A Covid-19 (SARS-CoV-2) PCR test is
required at all ports of entry in and out
of South Africa. Crossing the border
into Namibia wasn’t too bad from my
experience.
On our way out of South Africa, we
arranged a test from Ampath. The
test must be done within 72 hours of
crossing the border. It costs R850. We
used a drive-through testing centre
and received our results the next day.
Remember to print the results to show
at both the South African and Namibian
border posts.
You need a new test result when you
return to South Africa. You can stop
in Windhoek and get a PCR test. Or
when you arrive at the border, you can
have the South African Department
of Health’s antigen test done (it costs
R300). We chose the latter option.
While there’s no way to tell how
long the queues will be, we found
the process to be seamless, and the
antigen test was also much cheaper.
Our results were processed within
40 minutes, and we could continue
through passport control.
Please keep in mind that Covid-19
travel regulations are subject to change.
Always check what the latest regulations
are before planning your trip.
15
WINTER 2021 | AA Traveller

Namibia
of the Spitzkoppe Mountain. Known
as the Matterhorn of Namibia, these
giant monoliths rise 1 728 m above sea
level to stand out dramatically from the
surrounding plains.
Tucked away under the shadow of the
giant peaks, we came across the most
unlikely find – a rockpool filled with
terrapins. It was the perfect spot to hide
from the day’s heat and wait for the
afternoon when the light of the setting
sun colours the peaks blood red. We
made our way to the Spitzkoppe Arch to
catch the last remaining light.
The area is also home to ancient
San cave paintings, and a more recent
historical event was when the area was
used as a film location for the 1968 film
2001: A Space Odyssey.
Baobabs cling
to the ledges of
the falls.
Epupa Falls
16
A green oasis
The next leg of our journey took us
450 km north to the famous Etosha
National Park. It's known for its dry
grasslands, with average rainfalls of about
350 mm a year. Congregations of lions,
zebras, springboks and elephants usually
gather at one of the infrequent (often
man-made) watering holes.
But we arrived to find Etosha
blanketed in luscious green grass. While
beautiful to behold, it wasn’t helpful
when looking for an iconic shot of lions
sharing a water hole with their prey. The
game had dispersed across the now many
available watering holes, making it nearly
impossible to shoot.
To add to our disappointment, we
discovered that the park's gate only opens
at sunrise. South African national parks
typically open an hour before sunrise,
giving you the opportunity to see wildlife
when they’re at their most active.
We chalked up our misadventures to
experience, sat back and enjoyed what
wildlife we could find. Back at camp, a
cold Tafel Larger helped wash away the
frustration of missing out. What also
helped lift our spirits was our home
base – the Okaukuejo Camp. It’s the
oldest tourist camp in Etosha, and it has a
floodlit water hole where guests can enjoy
the sights and sounds of wildlife roaming
at night. Okaukuejo has the impression of
deep African bush but with the luxury of
electricity, a braai area, a shared kitchen
and, most importantly, hot showers. It’s
a great spot for sundowners; just look
out for curious black-backed jackals who
won’t think twice about stealing your
unattended boerewors.
After two nights fighting off hundreds
of hungry mosquitoes (we used Peaceful
Sleep like deodorant) it was time to move
on.
Garden of Eden
We travelled 600 km north to the Epupa
Falls, a majestic collection of waterfalls
that stretch over a length of 1,5 km. Don't
let out-of-date websites and rumours of
rough roads intimidate you. The gravel
roads, even in the remote northern parts
of Namibia, are comfortably wide and so
The rock arch
at Spitzkoppe.
well maintained that a sedan could drive
on them with ease. And this destination is
worth the drive!
You need to travel along the D3700
or the C43 to get there. Be sure to buy
supplies and fill up your car in Opuwo.
It’s 179 km from Epupa, and while there
are villages closer to the falls, it’s the last
major town, and there aren’t any shops or
gas stations in the area surrounding the
falls. You’ll spot Himba mud hut villages
and dry riverbeds along the way, and
you’ll know you’re close to the falls once
you see the baobabs.
When we arrived at the Omarunga
Camp Lodge at 5 pm, it was a gruelling
39°C. Luckily, we could set up camp
under the makalani palm trees. The
camp is within spitting distance of the
waterfalls. We were quite surprised to
AA Traveller | WINTER 2021

The light of the setting sun colours the peaks blood red. We made
our way to the Spitzkoppe Arch to catch the last remaining light.
Etosha
discover that unlike the rest of Namibia,
this region received extraordinarily little
rain – only 10 mm in the last few months.
The falls are created by the Kunene
River, which forms the border between
Namibia and Angola. Epupa is the
Herero word for "foam" and describes
the froth created by the cascading water.
Scattered along the banks are majestic
baobabs with thick knotted roots clinging
to the waterfall’s ledges. Time takes on
a different meaning here. You could
spend hours watching the thousands and
thousands of litres of water flow past the
roots of these ancient trees.
Epupa Falls is unlike any place I’ve ever
visited – truly a Garden of Eden. You
must travel far to get there, but it’s worth
it. I wish we could have stayed a few more
days.
17
WINTER 2021 | AA Traveller

Moon Landscape,
Swakopmund
18
The high life in
Swakopmund
A spur of the moment
decision took us to
the seaside town
of Swakopmund on
Namibia's west coast.
Despite the cloudy
weather, we went on
a helicopter flip with
Bateleur Helicopters.
We flew over one of the
oldest landscapes in
the world, known as the
Moon Landscape, and
massive golden dunes
and a flamingo-covered
salt mine.
The change in
perspective over
this intimidating, yet
magnetic terrain, was
extraordinary. I highly
recommend getting
“high” in Swakopmund.
Images: Jay Caboz
AA Traveller | WINTER 2021

Namibia
Spitzkoppe Tented
Campsite (far
left) and wilflife
spotted in Ethosha
National Park (left
and bottom)
We arrived to find Etosha
blanketed in luscious green grass.
GOOD
TO
KNOW
BEST TIME TO GO
You can visit northern Namibia
year-round, but the best time to view
game is between May and October
(winter months). The rainy season
is between November and May.
DO I NEED A 4X4?
No. A 4x4 would be ideal, but you
can travel through most of Namibia
in a normal sedan. While the main
roads out of Windhoek are tarred,
most of the country’s routes are
on well-maintained gravel roads.
WHAT DOCUMENTS DO I NEED?
Other than your Covid-19 test
result, you also need a passport
that’s valid for six months or more
after your departure from Namibia,
and children under 18 need their
full birth certificates. You need
additional documentation when
crossing the border in a car. For
more information on this, visit
aa.co.za/namibia-cross-border.
WHERE TO STAY
The Spitzkoppe Tented Camp and
Campsite is just 2 km from the
Spitzkoppe Mountain Reserve.
The campsite has a bar, pool and
dining area. A double bush tent is
R440 per night for two people.
+264 81 805 3178, enquiries@
spitzkoppemountaincamp.com,
spitzkoppemountaincamp.com
Okaukuejo Camp in Etosha has a
pool, petrol station, small kiosk,
restaurant, bar and water hole where
you can relax and watch animals.
Cost: R400 per four-people campsite.
Book via the park's website
etoshanationalpark.org. Or
contact them via email: enquiry@
etoshanationalpark.org.
When visiting Epupa Falls, stay at
Omarunga Lodge and Campsite. We
paid R403 a night (R101 per person).
It’s part of the Gondwana Collection
hotel chain and has a restaurant,
pool and bar. +264 61 427 200,
bookings@gondwana-collection.com,
store.gondwana-collection.com.
A HELI FLIP IN SWAKOPMUND:
A 15-minute flight with Bateleur
Helicopters costs R2 910 for a
single person (the cost drops if
more people fly). +264 81 150 3234,
bookings@bateleurhelicopters.
com, facebook.com/bateleurheli.
19
WINTER 2021 | AA Traveller

Camping car checks
TO
20
credits here
AA Traveller traveller | WINTER 2021 2020

car checks
THE KRUGER...
on the spur of the moment
When she spotted a special offer for flight tickets to Skukuza,
Gerda Engelbrecht couldn't resist. Off the family went for a weekend of camping.
21
credits here
I
have a love-hate relationship with camping. There, I said it.
There are few things as lovely as waking up in a tent early on
a Saturday morning with the sound of birds so close it feels as
if they’re right next to you. That's the love part.
But there are few things I hate more than struggling to get
my tent set up after arriving at a campsite late on a Friday
afternoon as dusk starts to fall. A clear memory from my
youth is camping in the Kruger with my family. My dad bought
a heavy canvas tent we loaded in our VW Kombi. Once the
tent was up, you parked the Kombi under one of the flaps and
zipped up the canvas, creating the effect of the tent being an
extension of the vehicle. Sounds wonderful, right?
>
WINTER 2020 | AA reisiger

In reality, that tent was enormous, and
it took up almost all the Kombi’s luggage
space, which is a problem for a family
of six. It also took all six of us to set it up.
We'd struggle for a half-hour, some of us
holding onto the poles, knocking in pegs
with a ten-pound hammer. No sooner
would the job be done when my mom
would suddenly be convinced that its
entrance is facing the wrong direction.
And we'd have to start the whole
process over again. That's the hate part.
Tent holidays in a jiffy
These days, there is a solution for
people who want to enjoy camping
but don't want to buy the equipment,
carry it around or set up and take
down their camp. Tented Adventures in
Pretoriuskop in the Kruger National Park
go through all that trouble for you, giving
you more time to just enjoy the fun parts
of camping. And so, when we saw SA
Airlink had discounted tickets from Cape
Town to Skukuza, we gifted ourselves a
luxury getaway and booked a weekend
in the park.
Stephan meets us on the Friday
afternoon in pouring rain at the camp in
Pretoriuskop.
It’s late summer, and the Kruger Park
has had so much rain in the past few
days that most of the dirt roads are
impassable. It doesn’t look as though the
rain is going away anytime soon, either.
I had my doubts on the prop aircraft
about our decision to camp, but Stephan
assuages all my fears. Our tent is large
enough for us to stand and walk around
inside. We have comfortable beds and a
thick, colourful rug. And it’s all bone dry
to boot.
Milk tart in a tin mug
While we go on a game drive, Stephan
prepares supper. Steak and mealies
over the coals, plus a salad. For starters,
there’s vetkoek with chakalaka and
dessert is milk tart in a tin mug.
That night, we have a wonderful – and
dry – sleep. Shortly after dawn, we see
our neighbours digging trenches around
their two-man tent. It's a family with two
young kids, and they look a tad dazed.
Tented Adventures can arrange game
drives, but no one wants to brave the
weather in an open vehicle. The rain falls
as if someone is busy building an ark.
As Capetonians, we visit the Kruger
at least once a year, mostly in autumn
GOOD
TO
KNOW
22
ACCOMMODATION
We booked out tented
accommodation through
Travelcheck. Visit
travelcheck.co.za and click
on ‘experiences’. The tent
was around R1 000 per
person per night. And that
includes a large breakfast
and dinner. The required
SANPark conservation
fee is not included – that
you pay on arrival at
Pretoriuskop reception.
Game drives are extra.
The accommodation at
Lower Sabie can be booked
through SANParks directly
(sanparks.org). We paid
R2 400 for the self-catering
cottage with a river view.
AA Traveller | WINTER 2021

Camping
Images: Gerda Engelbrecht, Sally Cronjé
or winter. This, as far as I remember, is
my first visit in the summer. I can't quite
believe it's the same park. And while
many people warned us that we’d see
fewer animals in the lush plant growth,
we see four of the Big Five in the space
of two days. Only the leopard eludes us.
We also spot many, many bird species.
We see hyenas at nine different times. It
also helps that the park is a little quieter
this time of year.
The weather starts clearing on our way
to Lower Sabie the following day. We
added an extra night at this camp, as we
usually see the best game in the Kruger
on the H10 road towards the Tshokwane
picnic spot. And sure enough, we've
hardly turned off onto the road before we
see two vehicles next to the side of the
road. Their zoom lenses are trained on
the long grass next to the road. Lions!
By the time we order our roosterkoek
at Tshokwane (they've made a plan
with the thieving monkeys), we've had
a wonderful show of giraffes bumping
necks, elephants, buffaloes and kudus.
And a vast number of babies of just
about every antelope you find here.
Back on the Lower Sabie Road from
Skukuza, we come across a pride of
young male lions tucking into their prey.
But when the roughly 20 vehicles vying
for position become more aggressive
than the lions, we head back to camp.
That night, around the campfire from
our riverside chalet at Lower Sabie, we
chat about what a brilliant idea this has
been. We’ll definitely come visit the
Kruger again for a weekend.
23
WINTER 2021 | AA Traveller

Mountain mist
WORDS AND PHOTOS BY MIA LOUW
AND MYSTERY
24
Back in the 1880s, people
rushed to the Drakensberg
escarpment that towers
over the De Kaap Valley,
full of hope of finding gold
in the area. This led to the
establishment of the town
of Kaapsehoop. Today,
the wild horses, outdoor
adventures and colourful
hangout spots attract
visitors here.
I
follow the Kaapschehoop road from
Mbombela and aim southwest towards
the village on the mountain. I’ve
packed an extra jacket, a woolly scarf
and waterproof hiking boots – you
never know what the weather will do
up there. Over the course of the next
30 km, I climb 900 m higher above sea
level. There might be bright sunshine in
the Lowveld, but Kaapsehoop is gently
tucked under a blanket of mist.
The place used to be known as
Duiwelskantoor (Devil’s Office). The
story goes that the sandstone rock
formations and mazes protruded like
strange creatures above the mist. The
name is actually a distortion of the
English “Devil’s Contour”. And that
referred to the steep and difficult
contour paths travellers had to struggle
up to get to the top of the plateau, writes
Gerrit Haarhoff in Forgotten Tracks and
Trails of the Escarpment and the Lowveld.
On top of the plateau you not only see
strange stones among the mist; in and
around Kaapsehoop there are about 200
wild horses, a few more than the number
of people in the town. These horses are
apparently descendants of the farm horses
that were used here during the First
Anglo-Boer War between 1880 to 1881.
While you must be careful around
the horses (and you should be; they’re
wild), you don’t need to be around the
many friendly dogs roaming the town.
You might meet Ripley, Basil, Tjoppies,
Potlood, Luna and the recent addition –
Ticky. Ticky was a stray full of ticks when
Ramona Marais spotted him on the side of
the road in Mbombela.
AA Traveller | WINTER 2021

Weekend getaway
MISTY AND (SOMETIMES) CALM
Kaapsehoop is quiet during the week,
but when you arrive on a Sunday over
lunch, you’ll see plenty of cars and
scooters at the first building on your
on the wall warning you that this is not
a fast-food restaurant. Sit back and sip
your beer as you wait for your burger.
The garden is a popular spot for fourlegged
visitors.
left, Bohemian Groove Café. The name
fits the restaurant like a glove. On most
Sundays, from 12 pm to 3 pm, a rock
band provides entertainment while you
tuck into Charl Fourie’s smoked eisbein
or ribs in the garden.
Artists Charl and Andrea Fourie
opened the restaurant in 2011. The
Fouries studied art at the Pretoria
Technikon during the Voëlvry
movement, and thereafter settled in the
Lowveld with a restaurant in Sabie and a
metal furniture store in Hazyview.
Charl is a blacksmith, and so
Bohemian Groove is decorated with his
handmade furniture and lights, and
artwork covers almost every piece of wall
and zinc surface, creating an industrial
steampunk feel inside the maroon
building. Try their breakfast bowl – the
‘bowl’ looks more like a ‘platter’ with
egg, fried halloumi cheese, eggplant,
mushrooms, fresh tomatoes, rocket
leaves, basil pesto and beans.
If you crave delicious pub grub, walk
along the street for another 100 m or
so to the Salvador Main Street Bistro
for their peri-peri chicken livers, pizza,
pancakes, baked potato or pasta. The
DROP IN AT THE NAGKANTOOR
Continue on Kruger Street and turn
right into Kantoor Street, on the way to
Kommissaris Plein where the old mining
commissioner’s stone house still stands –
it dates back to 1884. In Kantoor Street
you’ll find the Nagkantoor hangout, the
newest one in town. It is described as a
“newspaper pub” and “media museum”,
where visitors can get a glimpse into the
world of seasoned journalists.
The man behind Nagkantoor, De Wet
Potgieter, had a colourful 40-year career
in journalism. He was a court reporter,
investigative journalist and the editor of
a regional newspaper. He is now working
on his sixth book. His previous titles
including Apartheid’s Dirty Tricks Exposed
and South Africa and the International
Trade in Ivory and Rhino Horn.
The walls are covered with the front
pages of newspapers, news photos and
souvenirs. A gigantic photo of singer,
poet and newspaper man Koos du Plessis
stands guard over the bar where I taste
the Paardenpis Lager. Paardenpis is
a pale ale brewed with Kaapsehoop’s
delicious spring water, especially for
atmosphere is calm – there is even a sign Nagkantoor.
>
Ramona (also known as “The Pottery
Chick”) is officially Ticky’s owner, but
he’s also regarded as the whole town’s
pet. Ramona and her husband often lose
the battle trying to keep him contained.
No matter how high the walls, he often
escapes to go and explore the world.
He’ll follow hikers to the lookout
point on the escarpment. Sometimes
you’ll find him inside Bohemain
Groove Café, where he listens to rock
music as the locals keep an eye on him.
Sometimes he chills outside on the grass
at Salvador Main Street Bistro as he
watches the horses drift down the street.
When my soul leaves my body one
day, and I may return to earth for a
second chance, I want to be a dog in
Kaapsehoop!
25
WINTER 2021 | AA Traveller

“In Koos Doep’s earlier years, he also
brewed his own beer, which he called
Perdepis,” explains De Wet. Before
Nagkantoor opened in August 2020, De
Wet started a Facebook page with the
same name that February. It’s sitting on
8400 members and is an online hangout
for anyone interested in the print media
and the stories that appear in it.
If you’re “interested in reading great
tales and having a good time when
visiting Kaapsehoop”, you’ll definitely
get stuck at Nagkantoor. “Don’t worry,
it’s downhill all the way to Mbombela,”
is something I hear more than once at
the bar. “Just watch out for the horses,”
someone adds. There’s no doubt about
it – you’re going to linger here. Best you
book a room at the Silver Mist Country
Inn across the road.
Battery Creek
waterfall
26
THAT’S HOW WE ROLL
At Kaapsehoop Scootours, between
Bohemian Groove and Salvador, Alita
Steenkamp awaits the next group
who’ll be heading down the mountain
on 10 off-road scooters. Alita is also a
journalist and De Wet’s wife. He’s on
duty at the pub with Baasagent Potlood
Pencil Potgieter, Nagkantoor’s dog
mascot.
There are five Scootours in South
Africa, and they’ll soon be launching
another two, but Kaapsehoop’s route
is the longest one in the country – it’s
6 km of downhill, mostly on single-track
specially created through the Berlin
plantation. “You have to bend your
knees slightly when you’re on the bike,”
explains Rudi du Plessis, co-owner and
one of the tour leaders.
Rudi’s recommendation makes it
easier to weave your way through the
trees, and even though you can speed
downhill like a rally driver, Rudi will
also tell you they’ve guided visitors from
the age of six to 79. “It’s a wonderful
activity for the whole family, because
everyone can go as fast or as slow as they
like,” he explains.
At the end of the tour, there’s cold
Oros waiting at a picnic bench next to
the river, and the children will cavort
on the swing that stretches over the
water. “If you’re in a group of seven or
eight people, book the last ride of the
day. Then we light a fire here. We don’t
AA Traveller | WINTER 2021

Weekend getaway
The town
you can start at the Kaapsehoop hiking
hut; the corrugated-iron house is located
northeast of the town and the route takes
two hours if you walk from there.
It’s a good idea to call Berry Legg at
Miz Gooz Berry to order a special picnic
basket or backpack for your hike. Berry
has been making magic in her kitchen
for 24 years already; think sweet treats
including cakes, biscuits, cupcakes and
“old English toffee”, but she also makes
heavenly salty snacks and proper food. A
picnic basket costs around R220 per head.
“Every basket is different and I pick
flowers from my garden to decorate
them,” Berry explains. It comes with a
blanket, tablecloth, cloth napkins and
a brown paper bag for the dirty cutlery.
Inside, you’ll find guacamole with
charge extra – you must just bring your
own meat and drinks. It is wonderful to
be next to the river at dusk,” says Alita.
There are four tours a day that last
about an hour and a half each. It costs
R400 per person, plus R200 per extra
passenger.
There is another exciting tour just
outside the town, at Kaapsehoop
Horse Trails. For R350 per person you
can explore the plantations, patches
of natural forest and grasslands
on horseback for an hour. There
is also a campsite and self-catering
accommodation at the Berlin forestry
plantation.
Christo Germishuys, owner of
Kaapsehoop Horse Trails, is for a
training technique called natural
horsemanship. “It’s a gentler,
psychological approach rather than a
physical one. You work with the horse’s
mind. Why do people say a horse should
be ‘broken in’? Why would you want to
break something in the animal’s being?”
Christo also says that “wild horses” is
the romantic name for the animals that
graze around the town. “Calling them
feral horses is more accurate. Although
the horses have been wandering around
here for many years, they are not wild
animals in the true sense of the word.”
Christo reckons a horse is a beautiful
creature, but for him their beauty lies
deeper. “The saying goes that a dog is
man’s best friend. And it is true, you
won’t find a horse that’s as faithful
Miz Gooz Berry
as a dog. But horses have meant so
much more to humanity; they have
transported us to the ends of the earth.”
PICNIC ON THE ESCARPMENT
In town, I see hikers aiming for the
escarpment, through the sandstone
mazes and krantz aloes, all the way to
the lookout point. From here, you look
down on the De Kaap Valley, and in
the distance on the right is Makhonjwa
Mountains and Barberton.
The hiking route starts at the open
square in the town, right by Gold
Dust Trading. You can choose to start
your walk at the white signpost titled
Kaapschehoop Nature Trail, and the
circular route takes about an hour. Or
Picnic on the edge of
the escarpment.
peppadews and cheese and a biltong pâté.
“I bake my seed bread with condensed
milk, and there are crudités, goat’s milk
cheese, olives, fried asparagus, marinated
artichokes, sun-dried tomatoes, honey
and mustard chicken strips, quiche and
fruit salad in the basket. For dessert you
get old English toffee or fudge.”
Berry caters for special dietary needs,
including vegetarians, banting, keto and
foods for diabetics. She also sells clothes
and picnic baskets with antique cups,
plates and cutlery in her shop.
If you don’t want to walk alone with
your snacks, contact JC Maritz on 063 199
3129. JC is a tour leader for Kaapsehoop
Scootours, but he has recently started
guided hikes along the escarpment.
Spend a weekend on the mountain and
chances are you’ll run into JC and his
faithful little beagle, Ripley. You’ll often
spot the two of them walking down from
the lookout point, or in front of The
Little Shop next to Salvador, or on the
way home for a beer at the bar. It’s truly a
dog’s life on Kaapsehoop.
>
27
WINTER 2021 | AA Traveller

Weekend getaway
GOOD
TO
KNOW
Escarpment Walk
Kaaspehoop Horse trails
HOW TO GET THERE
The town lies 30 km southwest of Mbombela (via the
Hermansburg and Kaapschehoop roads) and 284 km
east of Pretoria via the N4. At Ngodwana you turn
off and drive 14 km on the Kaapschehoop road to the
town.
WHERE TO STAY
There are a multitude of options. Visit Kaapsehoop
Accommodation (kaapsehoopaccommodation.co.za)
or buy a Kaapsehoop Map & Info brochure (R10 at
Bohemian Groove).
If you want to get far away from everything
and everyone, stay at Kaapsehoop Adventures;
it's 8 km southwest of the town. It was initially
Coetzeestroom; a hiking hut that was part of
Komatiland Ecotourism’s four-day hiking trail.
There are three rooms with fireplaces (two to
three people per room), three teepee tents and
everyone shares bathrooms and cooking facilities.
kaapsehoopadventures.co.za, 082 452 9928
The Little Shop
Kaapsehoop Scootours
28
Bohemian Groove
Kaaspehoop Adventures
WALK AND BROWSE
There are a handful of shops in the town where you’ll
find delightful gifts. Gold Dust Trading Pawn Shop
has plenty of antique furniture and second-hand
books and clothes.
Plat Anna is a tiny but colourful gift shop next
to Salavador where you can buy clothes, décor,
jewellery, jam, toys and cosmetics, including soaps
and creams. To the left of Plat Anna is The Little
Shop, the only grocery store in town. Here you’ll find
the basic groceries such as milk, bread, soft drinks,
canned food and wood.
At Deliteful Glass Worx, Merle ter Bruggen sells
stained-glass products including lampshades,
windows, wind chimes and jewellery. You need to
wander a little further along Kruger Street to find
The Pottery Chick. Ramona Marais’ studio and shop
are at the end of Watkins Street. Ramona describes
her ceramic art as “Mediterranean and earthy”.
Salvador
FOR MORE INFORMATION AND BOOKINGS:
Kaapsehoop Scootours: scootours.co.za,
083 5766 541
Kaapsehoop Horse Trails: horsebacktrails.co.za,
076 108 0081
Miz Gooz Berry: mizgoozberry.co.za, 082 883 6192
KEEN TO TIE THE KNOT AT KAAPSEHOOP?
The Silver Mist Country Inn owns a chapel, a large
reception hall and Die Waenhuis restaurant.
silvermistguesthouse.co.za, 082 860 4824
Contact Charl Fourie of Bohemian Groove to rent
his antique Volkswagen Kombi or Volla for your
wedding. They’re also planning a VW Vintage Car
Festival for 15 October. bohemiangroovecafe.co.za,
072 650 7588
Deliteful Glass Worx
Nagkantoor
AA Reisiger | HERFS 2021

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Reserves
Land of
Dinosaur fossils, bearded vultures, epic landscapes and spectacular hikes –
the Golden Gate Highlands National Park may be smaller than other parks,
but it has so much on offer that it warrants return visits, writes Evan Naudé.
30
The view from the top
of Brandwag Buttress
is especially stunning
at sunrise.
AA Traveller | WINTER 2021

Reserves
Golden Gate gets
its name from
the imposing
sandstone cliffs
in the area.
31
WINTER 2021 | AA Traveller

Reserves
The predawn air bites my neck
as I pull my beanie down
low. My breath comes short
and fast, and my thighs are
on fire as I climb towards
the top of Brandwag, an imposing
sandstone buttress in eastern Free
State. Already the horizon is becoming
brighter, and a band of orange and pink
pastels tints the skyline. Soon the sun
will rise and flood the landscape with
light. My goal is to witness this from the
top of the mountain, so I quicken my
pace. It’s a race between myself and the
sun to see who will summit the Maluti
Mountains first.
I make it to the top with only minutes
to spare. I pour a cup of coffee from my
flask; I catch my breath, my muscles
relax, and a stillness descends upon me.
For a few moments, the world is quiet,
respectfully awaiting the dawn. Then the
sun breaks over the horizon and pours its
warm rays over the world. The sandstone
cliffs around me suddenly receive their
trademark golden glow. As birds start
their morning warble, the hum of a car
floats up from the road down below, and
I spot tiny human figures emerge from a
cluster of buildings. It’s a new day in the
Golden Gate Highlands National Park.
A rich history
Dinosaurs roamed this area long
before humans first laid eyes on the
Golden Gate’s stunning landscape.
Fossilised dinosaur bones and
footprints have been discovered in
the park, and a collection of dinosaur
eggs from the Triassic period (that’s
more than 200 million years ago!) was
unearthed in 1973.
The earliest signs of human
habitation (in the form of rock art and
stone tools) in the area are that of the
Khoikhoi. Some drawings can still be
seen in the park, although examples
of rock art elsewhere in the Free State
and in the uKhahlamba Drakensberg
Park in KwaZulu-Natal are more
impressive.
Go for a drive
on the Oribi or
Blesbok game
viewing routes
and keep an
eye out for
wildlife, the
Langtoon Dam
and the "vulture
restaurant".
In 1878, the settler Jan van Rheenen
bought a farm in the area called
Vuurland. It’s said that when he arrived,
he was so taken by the beautiful
late-afternoon glow of the sandstone
formations that he promptly renamed his
farm Golden Gate.
In 1962, the government bought
Golden Gate and declared it a national
park. Since then, surrounding properties
were incorporated into the park, and
its area increased to 340 km² in 2007
when it merged with the neighbouring
QwaQwa National Park.
Presently, there is talk that the park
could gain an additional 18 000 ha if it
merges with the adjacent Sterkfontein
Dam Nature Reverse to form a larger
Maloti-Drakensberg Transfrontier Park.
32
AA Traveller | WINTER 2021

The Echo Valley
hike leads you
to a deep ravine
with high curved
rock walls.
Where the wild things are
Field reports from the British hunter
and explorer Sir William Cornwallis
Harris in 1836 noted that Golden Gate
was teeming with thousands of black
wildebeest, zebra and blesbok. Later
generations significantly reduced the
animal populations, and today the
process of re-establishing wildlife is
still ongoing. Currently you can spot ten
species of antelope, including eland,
black wildebeest, red hartebeest and
the elusive oribi. Keen-eyed visitors
may even see smaller mammals like
black-backed jackals, caracals and
striped polecats.
Birders are in for a treat. Apart from a
birding list of over 200 species, Golden
Gate is one of the few breeding grounds
for the rare bearded vulture and bald ibis.
The road that cuts through Golden
Gate, the R712, is public, so you might
through the park. But if you want to
maximise your chances of spotting
wildlife, head to one of the park’s two
game watching routes.
The 4,2 km Oribi Loop leads you
away from the main road and through
the north-western corner of the park.
Here you’ll find sweeping vistas of the
Rooiberg Mountains to the north and
the Drakensberg to the east. Roughly
halfway along the loop, there is a large
bird hide where a feeding project
provides carcasses for the resident
vultures. This “vulture restaurant” is your
best bet to spot (and photograph) the
unique bearded vulture. It’s luck of the
draw whether these birds of prey will be
present during your visit, so find out from
the park offices whether a fresh carcass
has been put out before you go.
About 1 km east of the park offices
lies another game viewing loop – the
climbs away from the main road and
swings by the Langtoon Dam before
leading you southwards over wide
grass plains where herds of zebra, red
hartebeest and black wildebeest are
abundant. It’s mountainous here, and it
is worth planning your drive in the early
morning or late afternoon because
that’s when the sandstone cliffs glow
in their trademark golden hues. Pack a
picnic basket and stop at the Zuluhoek
or Generaalskop viewpoints. You’ll soon
forget about the rest of the world.
Strap on your hiking boots
Golden Gate's biggest drawcard is
without a doubt its collection of hiking
trails. There’s something for everyone,
whether you’re a serious mountain goat
or a casual saunterer. Thanks to the
stunning topography, you’re guaranteed
a rewarding outing no matter which route
even spot a few animals while driving 6,7 km Blesbok Loop. This route quickly you choose.
>
33
WINTER 2021 | AA Traveller

The public R712
road, which bisects
the park, is very
scenic.
The road that cuts through Golden Gate, the
R712, is public, so you might even spot a few
animals while driving through the park.
34
Deeper in the
park, you'll
discover
picturesque
views of the
Drakensberg and
herds of zebra.
hour long hike, the Holkrans Hike, starts
from the hotel chalets.
The Cathedral Cave Hike is an easy
four-hour guided trek to an immense
sandstone cavern which often has a
waterfall tumbling into its natural rock
pool. It’s here where rare bald ibises come
to breed each year, and subsequently the
hike is closed in November. Moreover, this
Six trails of varying lengths start
from the Glen Reenen Rest Camp. My
morning hike to the top of the 120m-high
Brandwag Buttress takes less than an
hour. On my way down, I head for the
Boskloof Trail, an out-and-back trail
leading up a lush valley. Next, I make
my way to the nearby Echo Ravine Trail,
which leads me to a sandstone ravine.
My jaw drops as I follow the concave
walls of rock on either side of me, and
when I reach the final cavernous hall, I
discover several crumpled notes and
burned-out candles hidden between
stones. It occurs to me that these are
prayers and that this must be regarded
by some as a holy place. Leaving the
ravine, I take a detour to Mushroom
Rock, another prominent buttress visible
from the main road. It’s only when
you stand directly below it that you
appreciate its true size. It’s certainly the
largest mushroom I’ve seen!
By linking the Brandwag, Boskloof,
Echo Ravine and Mushroom Rock trails
together, I hiked for roughly three hours.
All are family friendly, and should you
hike them individually, each trail should
take you about an hour. Another onehike
is guided (booking is essential) and
requires a minimum of five people.
If you want more of a challenge, head
for the four-hour long Wodehouse Hike.
It too starts and ends in the Glen Reenen
Camp. The trail leads you past the
Brandwag Buttress and onto the top of
the mountain, where it loops around to
the east before passing Mushroom Rock
on the way back to camp.
Finally, the two-day Ribbok Trail takes
hikers on a 28 km route through some of
the more remote areas of the park. You
need to be moderately fit for this one. It’s
a challenging hike, and you need to carry
your own cooking gear, food and sleeping
bags to the rustic overnight hut.
AA Traveller | WINTER 2021

Reserves
Photos: Evan Naudé. Additional source: Stuarts’ Field Guide to National Parks & Nature Reserves of South Africa (Chris & Mathilde Stuart)
GOOD
TO
KNOW
ENTRY While the main road
through the park is free, you
need to pay a daily conservation
fee to access the game drive
loops, hiking trails and other
activities in the park. The daily
fees are R59 per adult and R29
for children.
GETTING THERE Golden Gate
is about three and a half hours
south of Johannesburg. Travel
on the N3 to Harrismith to enter
the park from the east on the
R712. Or travel via Bethlehem to
Clarens for entry from the west.
BEST TIME TO VISIT The park
receives summer rains and
plenty of it. Plan your visit in late
summer or autumn when the
worst of the wet weather has
subsided, and the landscape is
at its greenest.
FOOD AND FUEL The Glen
Reenen Rest Camp has a
fuel station, curio shop and a
restaurant. Clarens is only 22
km from the park if you need to
do a larger grocery shop.
CONTACT 058 255 1000 or
sanparks.org/bookings
Office hours are Mondays to
Sundays from 07:00 to 17:30.
Rest your head
Whether you are looking for an overnight
spot with white linen and room service,
a cultural immersion or simply a place
to pitch your tent, Golden Gate has you
covered.
The Golden Gate Hotel has 54 rooms,
many of which have spectacular
views of the park’s iconic sandstone
cliffs. Here you’ll find all the creature
comforts imaginable, including a cocktail
bar, coffee lounge, a sports bar and
restaurant. If you prefer lighting your own
braai fire, head for one of the 34 selfcatering
chalets next to the hotel.
A stone’s throw down the road (next to
the park offices) is the Glen Reenen Rest
Camp. Here you’ll find another collection
of self-catering units, split into groups
of rondavels, longdavels and family
cottages with space for two to six people.
Across the road lies the campsite. It's
arguably one of the most scenic camping
spots in the Free State.
For a more secluded stay, book
yourself in at the Noord Brabant
Farmhouse, a self-catering farmhouse
6 km from Glen Reenen Rest Camp.
The beautifully restored house with its
stone walls, wooden ceilings and antique
furniture sleeps up to six people.
The log cabins at the Highlands
Mountain Retreat are without a doubt the
most scenic lodgings in the park. Situated
at a height of 2200 m, more than twice
that of Table Mountain, the eight luxury
cabins in the northern section of the park
(accessible from the Oribi Loop) have a
panoramic view of the Maluti landscape.
A night spent here is a night spent in the
realm of soaring eagles and vultures.
At the Basotho Cultural Village guests
are immersed in the Basotho lifestyle
of bygone days as the entire rest camp
is styled on an 18th century village.
Accommodation is provided in selfcatering
rondavels.
More to explore
The Basotho Cultural Village offers
visitors three guided tours. The Museum
Tour showcases the Basotho history and
lifestyle, the Herbal Trail is a walking
excursion with a traditional healer and the
Cultural Route focuses on cultural heritage.
At the Gladstone Stables (near the
western entrance) you can get in the saddle
and explore the mountains on horseback.
The Wilgenhof Environmental Education
Centre offers abseiling excursions for the
more adventurous, while water lovers can
get their fix with a canoe paddle on the
Gladstone Dam.
If, however, you are on full holiday mode
and don’t want to break a sweat at all,
simply pack a picnic basket and spend
the day at the Meriting Picnic Site near the
Brandwag Buttress.
Golden Gate Highlands National Park
looks small on a map when compared to
South Africa’s other national parks.
Nevertheless, you won’t be bored when
visiting. In fact, you’ll probably need to
come back to fully explore and appreciate
all its natural beauty, rich history, hidden
treasures and unique wildlife. After all, a
visit to Golden Gate is a visit to the land of
dinosaurs, bearded vultures and golden
mountains.
With two great game
viewing routes and eight
hiking trails, there is
no shortage of ways to
explore Golden Gate.
35
WINTER 2021 | AA Traveller

Weekend getaway
BY MELANIE VAN ZYL
HEAVENLY
HIGHLANDS
Bermanzi's two-day Back to Base Trail slots into a weekend gap perfectly.
Fill up with one tank of fuel, tie up your laces and get lost in nature.
36
We sip cold wine,
camp cups clinking
together in festive
cheer. After months
forced apart by
lockdown, two friends from nearby
Mbombela (Nelspruit) join my partner
and me at Vakashani Guesthouse
in Mpumalanga. A leisurely threehour
Friday afternoon drive from
our home in Joburg and here we sit,
jabbering away with Mia and Hank on
the beautiful Bermanzi property. We
lounge on the broad rocks, sunbathing
like happy dassies. Only when the
wind rushes up the sheer cliffs do we
withdraw to the sheltered boma beside
our thatched lodging.
Vakashani Guesthouse is one of
three accommodation options at
Bermanzi, but it undoubtedly boasts
the best views. Our two-storey, unfussy
guesthouse perches on what feels like
the edge of the world and overlooks
mountainous kloofs between Emgwenya
(Waterval Boven) and eNtokozweni
(Machadodorp). Tonight, we braai;
tomorrow, we descend into their folds.
THE PRETTIEST TRAIL
We wake unhurriedly on Saturday to
dawn breaking as impressively as dusk
had disappeared the prior evening.
After hot coffee and dunked rusks
enjoyed on the sunny stoep, we pack a
picnic lunch and prepare to depart on
>

Bermanzi is one of several individual properties
that initially formed the Num-Num Hiking
Trail, a renowned multi-day hike.
37
Many hikers
consider this
route to be one of
the most scenic in
the area.
WINTER 2021 | AA Traveller

Weekend getaway
38
the 12 km circular trail. "Not to brag,
but hikers always say that ours is the
prettiest trail around here," Bermanzi
owner Attie van Niekerk says, explaining
our route on the paper map.
Bermanzi is one of several individual
properties that initially formed the
Num-Num Hiking Trail, a renowned
multi-day hike. Today, you can still link
these various paths together; only now
it goes by the name of High Five Hiking
Trails. Attie tells us that our hike should
take roughly six hours to complete. We
depart at around 9 am, and we have
plans to picnic halfway.
Our entry to the hike is down an
old, craggy ox wagon trail. During
the South African War, local families
took this exact route to seek shelter
down in the valley, and we later pass
their stacked stone kraals. Beyond the
battered cliff edges, we find ourselves
in a small canyon and meander gently
down the mountainside progressing
through shallow forests before being
unceremoniously spat out into vast
grasslands again.
Gazing out across the ridge towards
Barberton, Mia spies hills dotted with
tall aloes and suikerbossie trees. Purple
wildflowers patch the pathway too,
and we continue along the easy-going
contour line, relishing the marvellous
views of the Komati Valley to our right.
The trail is signposted, plus extra white
footprints painted onto strategic rock
points ensure there's no getting lost, but
we also have Attie's paper map just in
case we make a wrong turn.
Roughly an hour into the hike, we
drop down another contour line, and
we find oursevels in a forested ravine
trudging beside a shaded stream.
We deviate slightly off the trail to
visit a serene rockpool – one of many
swimming spots to come – and Hank
braves the icy mountain waters for a
refreshing dip. Bermanzi means “the
mountain where the water is”, and that
rings true down here.
There are a few ladders and
suspension bridges along the route,
but all remain secure and sturdy under
our hiking boots (although we do tend
to cross them one by one). So far, the
The stunning view
makes the climb
worth the effort.
GOOD
TO
KNOW
GREEN FLAG HIKING CLASSIFICATION: The Bermanzi Day Hike
is a two-day, self-guided and self-catering base camp trail.
ENVIRONMENTAL CHARACTER: Pristine
ACCOMMODATION: Excellent
LENGTH: 12 km on the first day and either 4 km or
8 km on the second day before departure.
DIFFICULTY RATING: Moderate
FACILITIES AND SAFETY: Good and in safe environment
COST: Vakashani Guesthouse has two bedrooms and one dormitory
with excellent self-catering facilities. Bring charcoal to braai (nonindigenous
firewood is available but burns quickly). It costs R2 000
per night for one to six people, and hiking comes complimentary.
For more information, visit bermanzi.co.za.
Images: Supplied
AA Traveller | WINTER 2021

Bermanzi means “the
mountain where the
water is”, and that
rings true down here.
course has been laid-back, and we keep
to the edge of the babbling Bank Spruit
for the most part, working our way
towards a most noteworthy lunch spot.
To get there, we must leave the
glorious shade, natural swimming pools
and cool forest by clambering upwards.
We snake along the edge of rocky
ledges to reach the foot of the Uitkoms
Waterfall, which is said to be the second
tallest in the province (Lisbon Falls
on the Panorama Route is the first).
Resuming our dassie positions, we
spread out picnic treats across the rocks
and admire the dramatic drop.
Once refuelled with cheese, biscuits,
coffee and citrus, we're ready to tackle
the last portion of the hike. I can't help
but recall that adage before strapping
on my pack again – what goes down
must come up! So, we start the trek back
to the plateau above.
There's a little rock climbing and
dassie-hopping on our ascent, but (save
for a steep section or two) the hike
remains reasonably relaxed and rich
rewards await at the top.
We pause only to admire the ancient,
twisted trunk of a majestic yellowwood
tree, and before long we stand right
above the waterfall. Views from these
heights are superb, but I am more
impressed by the route that got us here.
I can now trace the path, my finger
following the emerald line of riverine
forest, and we're all chuffed at managing
the sheer climb in record time. Our
return to Vakashani Guest Lodge
requires a short stroll on flat farm
roads, and the entire trail plus picnic
break took us five hours leaving another
golden afternoon at our disposal.
That evening, around another fervent
fire, we agree that it is the variety of
landscapes encountered and diverse
terrains that make this trail so
delightful. We are all eager for another
outdoor dose before departing and
agree to do the short 8 km hike early the
next day. With its waterfalls, swimming
spots, forest and fields, this hike offers a
memorable experience.
39
WINTER 2021 | AA Traveller

Winter getaway
STARRY NIGHT...
40

South Africa is blessed with various destinations
that are perfect for astrophotography, especially
in the Karoo in winter. Gerda Engelbrecht spent
one night capturing the stars at Rogge Cloof
outside Sutherland.
Adjust your ISO to
around 400 and
keep the shutter
open for about
20 minutes to
see star trails.
I’m momentarily completely
disoriented in the dark and not
sure which way to go. Earlier in the
afternoon, André Jordaan, the estate
manager at Rogge Cloof, promised to
give me a bottle of the reserve’s select
wine if I take a night-time photo of a
new unit on the farm with the Milky
Way as a backdrop. I eagerly said yes.
The new unit is only a few hundred
steps from my accommodation in the
Wolskuur.
During the day, I tested camera angles
and found a spot for my tripod. But
the darkness of night deep in the veld
outside Sutherland is indeed Class 1
on the Bortle scale (see the sidebar on
pg.42). It’s so dark, I battle to see where
I am. What I think is the building, is
actually a sandbank, and the road is
nowhere to be found. Am I still walking
in the right direction? I have a torch, but
it’s the new moon, and the torchlight is
swallowed up after a few centimetres by
a large gaping dark void. This, then, is
what true darkness looks like. I do not
know which way to go.
Luckily, there’s a windmill groaning
in the light evening breeze, and it
gives me a sign of the direction the
building might be, otherwise I would
have panicked. It is difficult to describe
to a city dweller how dark the Karoo
veld can get. Especially when there’s no
moonlight. This darkness, however, is
exactly what you want when you’re going
to be taking photos of the night sky.
Before I left, colleagues advised me
to download an app to help me find the
Milky Way, but at 8 pm, it was already so
dark here at Rogge Cloof that the Milky
Way hung crystal clear in the sky.
It's indescribably beautiful.
NEW HORIZONS
I happened to be looking for
accommodation in Sutherland and came
across Rogge Cloof when I unexpectedly
got a call from Canon. The brand-new
Canon EOS Ra just arrived in South
Africa, and Canon would loan me a new
model for a week (one of the perks of
my job). This camera is in Canon's range
of single-frame mirrorless cameras, and
the brand's first one in decades that’s
specifically aimed at star photography. I
couldn’t resist!
Rogge Cloof, a game and dark sky
reserve, has fairly high-speed internet,
and it’s available to visitors for free. This
meant that I would be able to stay for a
night or two. During the day I could do
my normal day job thanks to the online
access, and at night I could shoot the
stars. Unfortunately, I miscalculated
one of the long weekends, and Rogge
Cloof was already fully booked. The
>
41
WINTER 2021 | AA Traveller

Winter getaway
42
cook would have his hands full preparing
meals for the weekend’s visitors, but if
I'd be willing to cook for myself, I could
still come for one night, said Corlia Janse
van Rensburg, who works at the reserve.
I decided one night in Sutherland was
better than nothing.
I leave Cape Town on a Thursday
morning and arrive at Rogge Cloof
just after lunch. The reserve is easy to
get to; it is on the R354 (the road to
Sutherland), and the main entrance is
about 10 km outside the town. From the
main entrance, it is still another 11 km
across the reserve on a well-maintained
dirt road. Corlia dryly remarked that I
was the first one to arrive there driving
a Mini. Although Rogge Cloof also has
five cheetahs on the reserve, I only saw
The special infrared
filter on the Canon
makes the blue sky
appear slightly bluer,
but the colours are in
no way distorted.
springboks and bontebok. After 11 km,
you arrive at an electrified fence and a
second gate, and then the friendly staff
of Rogge Cloof await you.
The reserve's facilities are beautiful
and can accommodate around 50 people
at any one time. The Rittersaal is a
restored farmstead from the 1700s and
has a slightly medieval feel. The breakfast
room right next door boasts glass
walls on two sides to bring the Karoo
area inside.
The reserve offers a variety of
accommodation, from single-room
cottages for two to houses that
accommodate eight. Many of them are
buildings that have sprung up on the
farm over the centuries. André proudly
shows me how they incorporated some
of the old features of the buildings into
the new design, including wire that was
used to sift wool in the unit where I am
to spend the night. It feels like home.
All the units have wood stoves, and the
reserve provides wood in the winter
– Sutherland turns into a fairy-tale
wonderland when it snows.
That night, armed with my flask of
coffee, I sit and guard my camera. You
don’t have to – a thief wouldn’t be able
to get close – but I’m afraid that if I
put this very expensive Canon down, I
won’t be able to find it again in the pitch
blackness. There is no noise, other than
the creaking of the windmill. And so, the
peace of Sutherland descends upon me.
What is the
Bortle scale?
HOW DARK IS DARK? Sutherland
is a one on the Bortle scale, a
numerical scale with nine levels
that indicate the brightness of
the night sky. It quantifies the
visibility of the stars and celestial
bodies, as well as the level of
light pollution that makes it
impossible to see them. John E.
Bortle created and published the
scale in the February 2001 issue
of Sky & Telescope magazine
so amateur astronomers and
astrophotographers could
measure the darkness of
different terrains. The scale
ranges from Class 1 – the
darkest possible night sky –
to Class 9, which is usually
in a city centre at night. The
scale uses several criteria to
determine the darkness, and
not only observations with the
naked eye. Class 1, the level at
Rogge Cloof, requires that:
• the zodiacal light be visible;
• M33 (the Triangulum Galaxy)
can be seen with the naked eye;
• the Milky Way casts an
obvious shadow;
• airglow be visible;
• Jupiter and Venus complicate
adaption to night vision;
• and the environment must
be basically invisible.
AA Traveller | WINTER 2021

Star photography 101
YOU NEED
• A destination that is truly dark. Even at
night, streetlights can get in the way of night
photography. There should be as little as
possible man-made light for kilometres,
which means you should be far away
from civilisation.
• A camera that has a shutter that can stay
open for long periods of time. Look for a
setting such as “bulb mode”, which is usually
showed by a capital B. Some smaller pointand-shoot
cameras also have settings for
night photography that work amazingly well.
Check under “scenes”.
• Something to stabilise the camera, such as
a tripod. But when the shutter stays open
for 40 minutes, a tripod may not be stable
enough. I parked the camera on a heavy
sandbag on the ground and a kitchen bench.
In the Karoo, large flat rocks also work well.
• A remote control for your shutter. You can
get it relatively cheaply at Orms or takealot.
This stops the camera from moving as you
click on the shutter.
• Hours of patience. If you shoot the Milky Way,
the lens will stay open for about 30 seconds,
but for galaxies it’s around 40 minutes. And
at 40 minutes per photo, you can imagine
that you won’t take many photos per night.
It's a bonus if you can set up the camera
somewhere and leave it there, but that’s not
always possible. You’ll have to wait in the
dark, so pack a flask of coffee and bring a
friend for company.
HOW TO SHOOT THE NIGHT SKY
Practice, practice, practice! Shoot photos of
the Milky Way with a high ISO (about 3600 in
my case) and a shutter speed of 30 seconds
or less. When shooting star trails, adjust
the ISO as low as 400, and keep the shutter
speed open for up to 40 minutes. Because
the Canon EOS Ra has such a super-sensitive
filter, I got the best results in 20 to 25 minutes.
Remember to set the camera's focus to
infinity. Look for the infinity sign (it looks like a
sideways 8) in your sights.
"...at 8 pm, it
was already
so dark here
at Rogge
Cloof that
the Milky
Way hung
crystal
clear in the
sky. It is
indescribably
beautiful.
43
WINTER 2021 | AA Traveller

Winter getaway
What I thought of the Canon EOS Ra
44
The EOS Ra has the same specifications
as the Canon EOS R, but with a stronger
infrared filter that enables the camera to
transmit four times as much hydrogen
alpha light compared to another EOS
R camera. That’s the feature that makes it such a
star at night. The camera is ideally equipped for
astrophotographers. For example, you can use the
30x magnification feature on the camera window
to evaluate your photos now and then – important,
because you need to adjust the night photography
settings according to the environment and not all
photographers get it right on the first try.
The fact that the touch screen can rotate at various
angles makes it easier for you to place the camera on
rocks or walls at interesting angles, without having to
roll around in the dust. Serious astrophotographers
can also mount the EOS Ra on a telescope. The
camera captures time-lapse videos in 4K and has an
ISO that can be increased to 40 000. I'm sorry I didn't
have time to test this function, though it does give me
an excuse to borrow the camera again.
Canon also loaned me the wide-angle RF 15-35mm
f / 2.8L IS USM lens, which can be considered as its
flagship lens for the RF series.
Would I recommend this camera? It’s a
definite yes from me. I found my groove
from the second pic. After 30 seconds
on the tripod, the night sky shone on
the camera’s screen. With the star
tracks, I overexposed one because
the shutter was open for too long, but
after that, I saw astonishing results. It's
trickier to get your composition right
in the dark, so my horizon is not always
level, but it does create a dramatic
effect. If you consider these photos
THE SERIES
Canon EOS RF:
About R22 000
(body only)
Canon EOS R:
About R30 000
(body only)
Canon EOS Ra:
About R53 000
(body only)
Canon EOS R6:
About R45 000
(body only)
Canon EOS R5:
About R80 000
(body only)
were taken during my first two hours with the camera,
you can only imagine what the quality would be once
you’ve been taking photos for a year with this one.
Some online reviewers warn the EOS Ra is only
good for night photography as the infrared light meter
distorts ordinary colours in daylight. I found that the
Karoo sky appeared a little bluer in daylight but is by
no means distorted. Pics taken inside a dark room were
bright thanks to its light sensitivity. So, it's not true that
you cannot use the camera for ordinary photography.
That said, the EOS Ra is ideally a camera for night
photography and will probably only be a serious option
if you already have another camera in your camera bag.
I love night photography, and I would love to have
such a camera at my disposal to take night photos
in different places in the country: the Cederberg
mountains, Gannagabos outside Calvinia, Namibia,
the Kalahari Desert and the Kgalagadi, Gamkaskloof
outside Calitzdorp, Anysberg outside Ladismith. This
camera will provide great fun in the remote parts of
Southern Africa.
I wished out loud a few times that I could take the
Canon EOS Ra to Iceland or Scandinavia to shoot
the Northern Lights (the aurora borealis). I've been
to both destinations before, but my photos
were so-so, and I think I'd be able to do
much better with the EOS Ra.
The EOS Ra doesn’t come cheap. If
you can buy in that price range (R52
000 for the camera without the lens), I
suggest you also look at the Canon EOS
R and EOS R6, which are both leaders
in their class and are brilliant for
bird, wildlife and macro photography,
plus took very decent night photos in
Sutherland and Tromsø, Norway.
Photos: Gerda Engelbrecht
AA Traveller | WINTER 2021

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@ Poopourri_SouthAfrica
021 913 3962 | www.poopourri.co.za
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Lovely
LANDSCAPES
We live in a beautiful world, so go out and capture it! Here are 10 tips that will help
take your landscape photography up a level. WORDS & PHOTOS BY SAMANTHA REINDERS
46
Landscape photography is one of the most rewarding
and enjoyable forms of photography. Who doesn’t
want to spend more time outside to breathe in the
fresh air and connect with nature? Whether you are
a seasoned professional or a hobbyist out on a road
trip, here are tried-and-tested tips on how to make
your mountains more majestic, your fields more
endless and your skyscapes more dramatic.
A truly amazing landscape shot is the perfect showstopping
addition to your photography portfolio and
is a sure-fire way to boost your Instagram following
(if that is your thing).
AA Traveller | WINTER 2021

Photography tips & tricks
GET YOUR GEAR
In general, the higher the resolution of your camera, the better equipped
it is for taking landscape photos. While there isn't a specific brand or
kind of camera that you must use, it’s best to ensure that the camera’s
aperture can open to at least f16/f22 (some bridge cameras can't do
this). That said, the best camera is the one you have with you, and some
of these tips can even be used with your cellphone’s camera!
1. LOCATION LEGWORK
Find the perfect setting and that’s
half the battle won. To discover
new, cool spots that haven’t been
photographed to death, you'll need
to go out and explore. Or if it’s an oftphotographed
location, try to find a
unique angle on it.
You might just find that researching
locations is the best part of shooting
landscapes. To find out more about
a location, use Google and online
maps or chat to people who have
visited the area, locals or the local
tourism office.
Some photographers also geotag
their images when they post them to
online sites like Flickr.
You need to plan for when the
light will be best for your photo.
There are apps that can help you
visualise what a location will look like
at a particular time of day. Sunlight
and moon positions can give you
the information you need to find that
great scene.
2. THINK BIG
To convey the scene’s vastness, a large
depth of field (large f/stop number, for
example f16/f22) will give you the sense
that “everything” is in focus.
What should I focus on in this case?
If you have a definite subject in your
landscape – a person, tree or any object
that that anchors your focus and leads
you into the landscape – focus on that
using either your autofocus system or
focusing manually. If the landscape is
devoid of a subject, put your camera
on manual, and set it to infinity (many
lenses have a meter that will show a
sideways figure 8 which represents
infinity). This allows the camera to focus
on as much as possible in the image. A
good example of when to use infinity
focus is when photographing the Milky
Way. It may be hard for your camera
to autofocus on a point in the distance.
Switch to manual focus and rotate your
lens to infinity.
>
47
WINTER 2021 | AA Traveller

Photography tips & tricks
48 Which shooting mode should I use?
Most cameras have a small icon of a
person in a frame indicating a portrait
and an icon of a mountain for landscapes.
This landscape shooting mode works
but only to a degree. Rather use the
camera’s more powerful Av/A (Aperture
Priority) mode for better results. It will
let you concentrate on your chosen
aperture (which is crucial in landscape
photography) while the camera makes
the other calculations for you.
When using a high aperture number (say
f22), the corresponding shutter speed
may be extremely slow. That’s why a
landscape photographer’s best friend is a
tripod. Buy one that is sturdy enough for
your needs but also lightweight enough
to easily move around.
3. COMPOSITION:
A solitary scene will arguably be dull, so
compose your landscape as you would
with any other photo. Think about what
is interesting to the viewer. Pay attention
to the geographical elements in front of
you and how they intersect with each
other. For example, consider the line of
the horizon or the shape of a mountain
or a dam, and determine where these
elements should be positioned for
maximum interest. Are there shadows
or reflections that you can exploit as
main areas of interest? Consider some
foreground interest to draw the viewer in.
The following general composition tools
all lend themselves to great landscapes:
Let the lines lead you
Leading lines are just that – lines that
AA Traveller | WINTER 2021

lead your eyes into the frame (or even out
of it, depending on the photographer’s
intention). Objects like jetties, railroads,
pathways and fences create compelling
landscape images that can transport the
viewer deeper into the scene. They can
guide your viewer to the focus of your
image. They can also guide your viewer
through the flow of a scene or setting, or
they can vanish into the distant horizon.
The larger the aperture number (from
f/16 to f/22) the more of the total scene
will be in focus.
Rule of thirds
The rule of thirds pertains to landscape
photography as well. The advantage
with landscapes is that the photographer
has much more time to reflect on the
scene and compose the photograph. If
your camera can overlay a grid, turn on
the feature and use it to help compose
your pictures. Work on creating a flow
in the photograph that takes the viewer
on a journey through the scene you are
capturing. Where do you want them to
visit? It is your job to guide them there.
Add foreground interest
A great landscape photograph has depth.
This means something needs to be in the
foreground: a tree, a piece of driftwood,
a sailboat, or, well, your road trip partner!
Wherever you are, look for foreground
objects that help tell your story.
4. CHANGE YOUR
PERSPECTIVE
Want a unique landscape image? Try a
different perspective. Put your camera on >
49
WINTER 2021 | AA Traveller

The so-called golden hour occurs not only an hour or
so before sunset but also an hour after sunrise.
50
ONLY GOT A
CELLPHONE?
No problem. These
days most top-range
cellphones take
amazing images. If you
feel you need to pimp
yours out, there are
hundreds of options
you can try. You can buy
lenses that clip onto
your phone that will
expand what it can do.
Popular options include
wide angle, macro,
telephoto and fisheye
lenses. Nifty!
AA Traveller | WINTER 2021

Photography tips & tricks
the ground or climb on top of something
(a koppie, the roof of your car, a bridge).
5. DON’T RELY TOO MUCH
ON POST-PRODUCTION!
There is nothing worse than a landscape
photograph that doesn’t look real.
Adjusting the horizon or changing your
exposure or saturation can make a big
difference, but it’s important to not rely
too much on post-production tools
and filters when it comes to landscape
photos.
Rather set yourself up for success while
you are shooting by using the right
settings and techniques. Pay critical
attention to white balance (the “cloudy”
setting often gives a great result even
in the absence of actual clouds) and
deepen colours by manipulating your
exposure compensation and shooting
slightly on the under exposed (darker)
side. Shoot in RAW mode if possible so
that any post-production tweaks don’t
result in loss of quality.
6. CHASE THE LIGHT
Set your alarm. The so-called golden
hour occurs not only an hour or so
before sunset but also an hour after
sunrise. Don’t stay under the duvet and
miss out. Midday light will lead to lots
of shadows, so rather take a siesta to
recharge your batteries (both literally
and figuratively). Also, try to avoid
shooting when it’s too sunny. Cloudy
weather is best (see tip 9).
7. LENS CHOICE
The best lens for landscape
photography is usually, but not always,
a wide-angle one. There are times
when you will want to focus on small
details, like the moon rising over a
distant mountain peak. For these rare
examples, a zoom or telephoto lens
will come in handy and will help you
think outside the box regarding your
compositions.
Regardless, the workhorse lens for
shooting landscapes will be your
favourite, good-quality, wide-angle lens.
Even when your subject is small, you
may be best served by getting closer to
it with your wide-angle lens rather than
zooming in with a longer lens.
8. ADD A PERSON
A landscape photograph with people?
Believe it or not, adding a human subject
to your landscape photograph can make
your scene more impressive. While a
beautiful view is gorgeous to look at,
seeing a person in the scene invites us in
as we imagine ourselves in their shoes.
With the addition of a person (or an
animal or some other human element like
a car), viewers can really get the scale
and the vastness of your landscape.
Bring along a friend on your photography
adventures or set up your tripod and
timer and do a self-portrait!
9. DRAMATIC SKIES AND
THE IMPORTANCE OF
CLOUDS
A blah sky makes for a blah photograph.
While the golden hours around dawn
and dusk can make even the dreariest
vistas beautiful, consider all your options.
Clouds often add interest and drama to a
photo. Even a few fair-weather cumulus
puffballs can make a world of difference
to an otherwise uninteresting landscape.
Streaky cirrus clouds reflect pinks and
oranges during sunset, and dramatic and
contrasty cumulonimbus clouds change
the tone of a photo entirely. Use them
compositionally and consider the way
they change the light in your photograph.
Ultimately, they are like giant soft boxes
giving everything a more muted tone.
10. STRAIGHT HORIZONS
Your horizon line needs to be straight,
so turn on your grid line feature. Then
double-check you’re not accidentally
chopping the top off your subject, be it a
mountain, a building or trees. Remember,
you can do a lot to improve a mediocre
image with editing, but you can’t do
anything to rescue bad composition.
Samantha Reinders is a
freelance photojournalist
with a love for the open
road. She’s worked for
National Geographic and
was the Photo Editor at
Weg/go! magazine for
four years. Recently she
worked on a gripping
photo essay on the
Covid-19 pandemic in the
Eastern Cape for The New
York Times.
51
WINTER 2021 | AA Traveller

COMPILED BY GERDA ENGELBRECHT
LUXURY
WHEN IT
MATTERS
You love the outdoors, but you don't want to feel
the winter chill while you sleep, wear uncomfortable
shoes or limit your diet to bully beef. Here are fab
items for your next adventure (and they make for
wonderful Father's Day gifts too).
52
A PROPER CUP OF COFFEE
If you don't feel like having instant coffee on your next
hike, then Roux Bean from Montagu is your solution.
Their single-serving bags of filter coffee fit on top of any
coffee cup. You just add boiling water. When we tested it,
the coffee was fresh and the strength was perfect!
PRICE: R55 for five (the more you order, the cheaper
they get)
ORDER FROM: orders@rouxbean.co.za
PAP IN A JIFFY
You can't go wrong with
maize pap. You can have
it for breakfast, lunch or
dinner. It's filling and can be
served a hundred different
ways. A-maize-zing sells
ready-made pap in 250g
and 500g tubes that can
easily fit into a backpack or
camp crate. You can have
dinner ready long before the
tent is pitched. Ready-made
polenta is also available.
PRICE: R230 for a box of
20 x 250g tubes
ORDER FROM:
a-maize-zing.co.za or buy
single tubes at selected
Spar stores
AA Traveller | WINTER 2021

Gear
TASTES LIKE HOME
Over instant noodles and canned food on your hike or 4x4 adventure? Here are two easy
and delicious alternative food options for you to try.
Mamma Afrika is the brainchild of
Catherine Cartwright, a South African
4x4 enthusiast and multiday hiker who
makes "adventure food" for those who
love the outdoors. Catherine says that
she simply reached a point where she
was fed up with having to eat bland
instant noodles while in the most
beautiful natural settings. On the menu
for lunch or dinner, she has Moroccan
butternut tagine, East African peanut
butter stew, Ethiopian dhal, mushroom
risotto and jollof rice. Made from natural,
flavourful ingredients (you won't find any
unhealthy or tasteless additives), the
meals are dehydrated. You simply add
it to a pot of water and cook until it has
swelled out again. The portions are large.
The butternut tagine was a highlight.
For breakfast, Mamma Afrika offers
oats in four different flavours: apple,
cinnamon and almond; nectarine
and chia; pear and chocolate; and
mango and turmeric. Fantastic!
PRICES: R20 for breakfast
and R85 for mains
ORDER FROM: mamaalles.com
The Dri Food Co is also a South African
company that manufactures dried food. Hikers
rate their products highly. On offer is smoky
butternut and kale macaroni, aubergine curry,
green bean stew, red lentil dhal, Thai green
curry made with sweet potatoes and lentils.
They also have packets of dried veggies:
aubergines, baby marrows, cabbage, green
beans, mushrooms, onions, peppers, potatoes,
sweet potatoes, spinach and tomatoes. It will
come in handy if you ever develop scurvy while
on your 4x4 holiday deep in the bush. Add these
vegetables to your potjie to give it a health kick. For
breakfast, they have oats in six different flavours:
apple and cinnamon; banana and chocolate;
banana, pineapple and coconut; chilli, banana and
chocolate (delicious); “pienk pap” (beetroot and
apple); and “sun kissed” (pear, butternut and ginger).
PRICES: Mains from R95; breakfast from
R28 and dried vegetables from R75
ORDER FROM: drifoodco.com
HOME
COMFORT
Sometimes in
winter you just want
to stay home and
curl up with a good
book. Sapmok
slippers are just as
comfortable as they
look (I ordered a
pair). They also have
vellies with wool on
the inside, which
are just as welcome.
PRICES: R1 350
for the slippers
and R1 600 for the
vellies.
ORDER FROM:
sapmok.com
53
WINTER 2021 | AA Traveller

Gear
54
SLEEP TIGHT
Taking a tent on a hiking trip
has its pros and cons. On the
one hand, if it rains, you can
sleep drily, and after a day of
walking, you want to be cosy.
On the other, you have to lug
the extra weight around. Here
is a solution: Campcraft sells
ultralight tents for hikers.
The Black Diamond
Spotlight Bivy is a one-man
tent with a design that will
turn heads, but it only weighs
510 g and is 10 x 19 cm when
you unfold it. Want more
space? Choose the Black
Diamond Firstlight (1,3 kg
en 15 x 33 cm).
Also check out their carbon
trekking poles and light-weight
cooking equipment.
PRICES: One-man tent
from R4 599 and two-man
tent from R7 699. Carbon
trekking poles from R899.
ORDER FROM:
campcraft.co.za
BOOTS MADE FOR HIKING
Merrell is renowned among hikers and 4x4
enthusiasts, and their new Erie hiking boots
won't disappoint. Its appearance is aimed at
those who like the retro look, but it has all the
modern technology to make it as light as a
feather and reliable. The upper is a silk-like,
waterproof suede, and the sole is made
from super soft foam.
No doubt that these will become
your favourite hiking boots.
PRICE: R2 399
ORDER FROM:
merrell.co.za
PULL UP YOUR SOCKS!
Hikers often talk about shoes, but they don't
discuss socks nearly as much as they should.
If you end up with blisters after a long hike, it's
often not your boots that are to blame, but rather
your socks. Here are two reliable stalwarts from
Falke and one new addition to their range. They
have secret socks options, but I prefer to wear
longer socks with my hiking boots. Falke socks are
manufactured in South Africa.
The Falke Advance Performance Wool
Hiker is a new product from Falke. They are
ergonomically designed (specifically made for a
left or right foot) and are fortified on the heel and
toe with a subtle seam that won't chafe. They are
made of 38 percent wool, 37 percent acrylic, 14
percent polyamide and nine percent Drynamix (a
polyester mix that keeps your feet dry). The two
percent elastin ensures that they fit nicely and
don't bunch up in your shoe. Hikers often shun
wool socks because they think they're thick and
heavy, but these are light and comfortable. Perfect
for winter.
The Falke Hike/Walkie is a classic. They
have a seamless toe that won't chafe, a special
design that aids ventilation and the sole has extra
cushioning – ideal for long treks. They are made
from 46 percent wool, 46 percent Drynamix, six
percent polyamide and two percent elastin.
If you want to try something that offers the best
of both worlds, get a pair of Falke Advance
Performance Cool Hiker. These are thin
on top, but the sole is well-cushioned. They are
composed of 79 percent Drynamix, 19 percent
polyamied and two percent elastin.
All three types of socks come in various colours
and contain odourless insect repellent (for hiking in
the veld). They are also are great Father's Day gifts.
PRICES: From R150 to R200
ORDER FROM: falke.co.za
Photos: Getty Images/Gallo Images and supplied
This selection of products was chosen by the editorial staff, and the various brand featured didn’t pay for the exposure. All prices mentioned can change without notice.
Delivery costs are not factored into the prices. The editorial staff can’t accept responsibility for orders.
AA Traveller | WINTER 2021

COFFEE ANGELS
Simple and elegant, our disposable coffee filter fits with ‘wings’ on
any cup and is essential for that weekend away or camping trip.
Filled with premium Arabica coffee that we have air roasted to perfection;
these little Angels will bring some coffee heaven to your day!
10 PIET RETIEF STREET, MONTAGU TEL: 084 952 6803
EMAIL: ORDERS@ROUXBEAN.CO.ZA
www.rouxbean.co.za

LEG OF SPRINGBOK ON THE BRAAI, CHILLI-CHOCOLATE PIE, BACON-
WRAPPED FILLET AND BURGERS WITH APRICOT AND BRANDY SAUCE
– HERE ARE EIGHT LEKKER RECIPES FOR WHEN YOU GOT GAME FROM A
HUNT, OR ASK YOUR BUTCHER FOR THESE CUTS.
56
BACON-WRAPPED
FILLET
AA Traveller | WINTER 2021

Recipes
BACON-WRAPPED FILLET
Serves 4
Cooking time 20 minutes (plus
marinating overnight)
125ml (½c) brown sugar
125ml (½c) soy sauce
1 whole game fillet, about 600g (we
used springbok)
125g streaky bacon
1 Mix the sugar and soy sauce well and
pour into a sealable plastic bag. Add the
fillet and seal the bag. Let it marinade in
the fridge overnight.
2 Remove the meat from the marinade
and wrap the bacon strips around it. Let
the bacon pieces overlap so that the fillet
is completely covered. Use toothpicks to
keep the bacon in place.
3 Braai the fillet over medium hot coals,
brushing it with the marinade every now
and then. Turn after about 5 minutes and
cook on the other side until the bacon
is crispy. Move the coals to one side or
move the fillet to the cooler side of the
braai and allow it to slowly cook up high
for another 5 minutes or so for a medium
rare fillet. If it’s a ticker piece of meat, or
you prefer meat that’s less rare, you’ll
need to cook it for longer. Remove from
the braai and allow to rest under a piece
of foil for 5 minutes.
4 Cut the fillet into slices and let your
guests enjoy it around the braai. Or serve
it on a bread bun with camembert, rocket
leaves and microgreens.
TIP: There is a big difference between the
weight and size for different game fillets.
For this recipe, you can use any type of
game but be sure to adjust the amount of
marinade and cooking time according to
the size of the meat.
MARROWBONE AND GAME
POTJIE WITH PEACHES
Serves 6 – 8
Cooking time 3 hours 10 minutes (plus
marinating overnight)
1kg game shoulder or leg (we used
springbok, but you can also use kudu or
impala)
MARROWBONE AND GAME
POTJIE WITH PEACHES
For the marinade
1 bottle (750ml) quality dry red wine
1 cinnamon stick
1,25ml (¼t) ground ginger
Pinch of saffron
For the potjie
Salt and pepper, to taste
30ml (2T) butter
500g mutton marrowbones
250g smoked bacon, roughly chopped
1 onion, chopped
2 sprigs rosemary
1 cup large, dried peaches
30ml (2T) brown sugar
2L lamb stock
1 Cut the meat into cubes. Mix the
marinade ingredients in a large bowl,
add the meat and leave it in the fridge
overnight.
2 Preheat the oven to 160°C. Remove
the meat from the marinade, dry it with
paper towels and flavour with salt and
pepper. Don’t throw away the marinade!
You’ll use it later. Heat a wide, flatbottomed
pot that has a tight-fitting
lid on the stove, melt the butter and
working in batches, quickly brown the
meat and marrowbones over high heat
(see tip below).
3 Lower the heat and add half of the
bacon, the onion and rosemary sprigs
to the pot. Fry for about 5 minutes. Next,
add the peaches, sugar, marinade and
stock. Pop on the lid and let the meat
cook in the oven for 2 hours. Remove
the lid and put it pack in the oven for
another hour.
4 Fry the rest of the bacon until crispy
and sprinkle over the dish just before
serving.
5 Serve with quinces cooked in star
anise, vanilla pods and sugar. It’s also
delicious with rice or potato mash.
MEAT BROWNING TIP: When browning
meat, you don’t want it to seep juices
or steam. To avoid this, let your meat
reach room temperature before you
start browning it, make sure you pan is
hot and brown your meat over high heat.
You also don’t want to crowd the pan, so
work in batches if need be. >
57
WINTER 2021 | AA Traveller

Recipes
LEG OF SPRINGBOK
ON THE BRAAI
Serves 4
Cooking time about 2 hours 30 minutes
LEG OF SPRINGBOK
ON THE BRAAI
1 leg of springbok (about 1,2kg)
Salt and pepper, to taste
25ml freshly ground coriander
For the marinade
100ml olive oil
45ml (3T) lemon juice
20ml soy sauce
15ml (1T) balsamic vinegar
For the jus
375ml (½ bottle) red wine
125ml (½c) sugar
1 sprig rosemary
1 garlic clove
58
1 Flavour the springbok leg with salt,
pepper and coriander. Mix the marinade
ingredients in a large bowl (one in which
you can marinade the meat). Place the
springbok in the bowl and marinade for
at least an hour (longer is better).
2 For the jus, cook the wine, sugar,
rosemary and garlic in a pot over
medium heat. The jus is ready when it
sticks to the spoon.
3 Put the meat on a braai grid over
medium hot coals and cover with a
casserole lid. You can also cook this in
a kettle grill, but the casserole lid works
just as well. The cooking time depends
on several factors, but 10 minutes is a
good start; 20 minutes may be too long.
4 When done, allow the meat to rest for
about 10 minutes. Serve with the sauce
and braai sides.
CHILLI-CHOCOLATE
GAME PIE
Serves 6
Cooking time 3 hours 30 minutes
(excluding time for the filling to cool
down)
For the filling
1,5kg game shoulder or leg (we used
kudu)
45ml (3T) flour (optional)
60ml (¼c) butter
250g brown or portabellini mushrooms
1 onion, chopped
3 large carrots, chopped
1 small red chilli pepper, whole
15ml (1T) cumin seeds
5ml (1t) ground coriander
1 pinch chilli flakes
500ml (2c) dry red wine
250ml (1c) beef stock
1 can (400g) chopped tomatoes
10ml (2t) fresh thyme leaves
2 fresh bay leaves
50g dark chocolate (70% or 80% cocoa),
broken into pieces
Salt and black pepper, to taste
For the pie
1 to 2 rolls puff pastry (depending on
the size of your pie dish), defrosted
1 egg, beaten
1 Preheat the oven to 160°C. Cut the
meat into 4 cm cubes and remove any
sinew. Add the meat and flour (if using)
to a plastic bag and give it a good shake.
2 On the stove, melt the butter in a wide,
flat-bottomed pot (it must also have
a tight-fitting lid). Working in batches,
quickly brown the meat over high
heat (see meat browning tip on pg 57).
Remove from the pot.
3 Leave the mushrooms whole or
cut them into large chunks. Add the
mushrooms, onions, carrots, chilli
pepper and spices to the pot and fry
over medium heat until slightly brown.
CHILLI-CHOCOLATE
GAME PIE
4 Add the wine, stock, tomatoes, thyme
and bay leaves. Bring to a boil and add
the meat. Let it simmer for 5 minutes,
then pop on the lid and put the pot in
the oven for 90 minutes. Remove the lid
and cook in the oven for another hour.
Test if the meat is soft. If not, put it back
in the oven for another 30 minutes. If
the meat is done, stir in the chocolate,
taste and add salt and pepper. Leave
the filling to one side to cool down
completely. Put it in the fridge.
5 When you’re ready to make the pie,
preheat the oven to 180°C. Add the filling
(it must be cold) to your pie dish. Roll out
your puff pastry. The pastry will shrink,
so remember to trim it so that you have
at least 1cm overhang right around your
pie dish. Lay the pastry on top of your
dish and crimp and seal the edges.
Cut a small hole in the middle to allow
steam to escape. Brush the pastry with
the beaten egg.
6 Bake the pie for 20 to 30 minutes, until
the pastry puffs up and is golden brown.
TIP: Puff pastry puffs up much better if
it’s still very cold. So, if you’re waiting for
the oven to reach the right temperature,
rather pop your prepared pie in the
fridge until the oven is ready. You can
also replace the pastry with potato
mash.
AA Traveller | WINTER 2021

GAME POTJIE
Serves 6
Cooking time between 2 hours and
8 hours 30 minutes (depending on
cooking method)
1kg game meat, cut into 4cm cubes
125ml (½c) cake flour
Olive oil, for frying
400g shallots or small onions, peeled
Cloves from 1 whole garlic bulb
60ml (¼c) brown sugar
250ml (1c) dark beer
1 can (410g) cherry tomatoes, drained
30ml (2T) Worcestershire sauce
30ml (2T) soy sauce
1 sprig thyme
40g dried mushrooms, finely chopped
1 Roll the meat cubes in the flour. In a
wide pan or a flat-bottomed cast iron pot,
quickly brown the meat in warm olive oil.
Do this in batches (see meat browning tip
on pg 57). Remove the meat and keep it
to the side. Add a little more olive oil to
the same pot and fry the whole onions,
garlic cloves and sugar until the onions
turn dark caramel here and there.
2 In a slow cooker, add the onions, meat
and the rest of the ingredients and cook
on low for 8 hours or high for 4 hours. Or
add the above ingredients to a potjie and
slowly cook over medium-low coals for
90 minutes. You can also add everything
to an ovenproof dish and bake it in the
oven at 150°C for 90 minutes or at 100°C
for 7 hours.
3 Serve immediately with rice.
125ml (½c) beef stock >
59
WINTER 2021 | AA Traveller

60
BAKED CREAMY FRIKADELLE
Serves 4
Cooking time 35 minutes
500g game mince
4 garlic cloves, minced
10ml (2t) fresh thyme leaves
2,5ml (½t) ground cumin
2,5ml (½t) ground coriander
Salt and black pepper, to taste
30ml (2T) butter
250g portabellini mushrooms
50ml soy sauce
50ml balsamic vinegar
250ml (1c) cream
1 In a large bowl, mix the mince with the
garlic, herbs and spices and flavour with
salt and pepper. Shape golf ball-sized
frikadelle and let them set in the fridge
for a while.
2 Preheat the oven to 180°C. Melt the
butter in a wide, heavy-bottomed
ovenproof pot or pan and quickly brown
the frikadelle. Remove from the pot and
keep to the side. In the same pot, brown
the mushrooms and remove when done.
3 Next, deglaze the pot by pouring in
the soy sauce and vinegar and scraping
the bottom of the pan to release any
browned bits. This will add flavour to
your sauce. Return the frikadelle and
mushrooms to the pot and let it simmer
for 5 minutes.
4 Add the cream and bake the frikadelle
in the oven for 15 to 20 minutes until
done. Serve with rice, mashed potatoes
or bread.
Recipes by: Aletta Lintvelt and Johané Neilson
AA Traveller | WINTER 2021

Recipes
GAME BURGERS WITH
BRANDY AND APRICOT
SAUCE
Serves 6
Cooking time 40 minutes (plus 20
minutes resting time)
GAME PIE WITH HERB
DUMPLINGS
For the patties
500g game mince
250ml (1c) breadcrumbs
1 egg, lightly beaten
1 small onion, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, crushed
30ml (2T) ground cumin
10ml (2t) ground coriander
5ml (1t) ground ginger
2,5ml (½t) ground cloves
Salt and pepper, to taste
For the apricot sauce
1 can (410g) apricots in syrup
15ml (1T) oil
1 onion, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, crushed
10ml (2t) ground ginger
30ml (2T) brandy
60ml (¼c) water
For the burgers
2 handfuls of lettuce or rocket leaves
1 red onion, sliced into ring
6 buns, sliced open
1 Mix together the ingredients for the
patties in a large bowl. Divide into six
balls and flatten slightly with the palm
of your hand. Allow to rest in the fridge
for 20 minutes. This will help keep the
patties firm while you cook them.
2 For the sauce, drain the apricots but
save 2 tablespoons of syrup. Heat the oil
in a potjie and fry the onion and garlic
until soft and translucent. Add the ginger
and cook for another minute. Stir in the
brandy, apricots, syrup and water and
cook for about 10-12 minutes, or until the
apricots are soft.
3 Fry the patties over hot coals or in hot
oil in a pan over medium high heat. Flip
as soon as it’s golden brown and firm on
the one side. Cook on the other side until
done.
4 To assemble the burgers, arrange a
few leaves and red onion rings on the
bottom half of each bun. Put a patty on
top and spoon the apricot sauce over.
Top with the top half of the bun.
GAME BURGERS WITH A
BRANDY AND APRICOT SAUCE
GAME PIE WITH HERB
DUMPLINGS
Serves 6-8
Cooking time 3 hours 20 minutes
For the filling
60ml (¼c) oil
2 onions, chopped
2 carrots, peeled and chopped
2 celery stalks, chopped
1 pack (250g) streaky bacon, snipped
into pieces
2 garlic cloves, crushed and chopped
125ml (½c) flour
Salt and pepper, to taste
1kg game meat, cut into 2cm cubes
125ml (½c) red wine
60ml (¼c) water
1 can (410g) whole tomatoes
1 cinnamon stick
2 star aniseeds
For the dumplings
500ml (2c) cake flour
15ml (1T) baking powder
2,5ml (½t) salt
45ml (3T) butter
45ml (3T) dried mixed herbs
180ml (¾c) milk
1 For the filling, heat 2 tablespoons oil
in a deep saucepan and fry the onions,
carrots, celery, bacon and garlic for 2
to 3 minutes. Remove from the pan and
keep to the side.
2 Flavour the flour with salt and pepper
and roll the meat in the flour. Dust off
any excess flour. Heat the rest of the
oil in the same saucepan and quickly
brown the meat (see meat browning tip
on pg 57).
3 Add the vegetables back to the
saucepan, as well as the rest of the
filling ingredients. Let it simmer for about
2 hours or until the meat is tender and
the sauce has slightly thickened. Scrape
the bottom of the pan with a wooden
spoon to release any browned bits.
4 To make the dumplings, sift together
the dry ingredients (except herbs) and
rub in the butter until the batter looks
like breadcrumbs. Mix in the herbs and
slowly add the milk until you have a
firm dough. Carefully top the meat with
spoonsful of dough.
5 Close with a lid, add a few coals on top
and cook for 40 to 50 minutes or until
done. Serve immediately.
61
WINTER 2021 | AA Traveller

Books
Cosy
GERDA ENGELBRECHT
with a book
It's winter, so some days you just want stay indoors and catch up on reading. In this issue we
have two new guides on game reserves and two classics that document epic journeys.
62
Walk with the Big Five
Winter is the best time to view
game, which is why so many
South Africans head to national
parks and reserves this time of
year. But why not experience the
wild from a different angle... on
foot! Walking Safaris of South
Africa – Guided Walks and trails
in national parks and game
reserves by Hlengiwe Magagula
and Denis Costello (published
by Penguinrandomhouse) is a
thorough guide of different trails
in nature parks and reserves, from day hikes that start at game
park camps, to hikes where you overnight at lodges or multiday
excursions where you sleep in the veld under the stars. This
book is more than just a guide; it's an adventure read.
PRICE: R270 at takealot.com
Two journeys that will inspire you
If you've always dreamt of an epic
hike like the Inca Trail or the Camino
de Santiago, but you need some
encouragement to fully commit, then the
captivating story of Grandma Gatewood
(Grandma Gatewood’s Walk – the
inspiring story of the woman who saved
the Appalachian Trial) might just be the
final push you need. At the age of 66,
Emma told her children that she was
going for a walk, and she showed
up at Oglethorpe to tackle the
murderous Appalachian Trail
(AT). At 2050 miles (3300 km),
it's one of the longest hikes in
the world. Emma didn't have
any specialised equipment. She
carried the few items she had in
a homemade bag on her back.
At night she wrapped herself in
a plastic shower sheet (no tent
or sleeping bag), and during the
day she walked distances of up
to 20 miles in her beat-up canvas shoes.
Leaves and wild berries were often all
she ate. Grandma Gatewood is legendary
figure amongst hikers, so I'm not giving
anything away when I say that in 1955 she
was only the seventh person, and the first
woman, to successfully complete the
AT. After that she added two additional
records to her name: She was the first
Drive with the Big Five
You should visit the Kruger at
least once, but it shouldn't be the
only park on your list of must-see
holiday destinations. South Africa
has dozens of reserves with
heaps of charm and character.
And chances are you'll have less
cars to compete with when you
try to get that perfect photograph
of a lion. Stuarts’ Field Guide
to National Parks & Nature
Reserves of South Africa by Chris
and Mathilde Stuart (published by Penguinrandomhouse) lists
all the game viewing spots in your province, and contains a
wealth of information on the history, geology and fauna and
flora of the parks. It's a handy guide to have when deciding
where to go for your next holiday.
PRICE: R350 at takealot.com
person to hike the AT three times, and
she still holds the record for the oldest
woman to complete the AT (she was 71 at
the time). Her story is masterfully told by
author Ben Montgomery.
On the Road by Jack Kerouac is one
of those books that people often
recommend, but I've never gotten
around to reading it. Now that I finally
have, I can see myself returning to it
again and again. This autobiography tells
the story of the months Jack spent
hitching rides on Route 6 in America
(from New York to San Francisco).
What draws you in isn't necessarily
what happens along the road (the
journey isn't very eventful) but rather
Jack's descriptions of the people he
met along the way.
PRICE: R369 (Grandma Gatewood)
and R185 (On the Road) at takealot.
com
The books were selected by the editors and the publishers had no input in the reviews. Prices are subject to change.
The editors accept no responsibility for delivery. Images: Gerda Engelbrecht and provided.
AA Traveller | WINTER 2021

BY JULIET MCGUIRE
WHEN YOU NEED TO
DOWNGRADE
Whether the pandemic has negatively affected your finances, or you’re
looking for ways to cut costs, choosing a less expensive vehicle may
be your best bet (and it doesn’t have to feel like a downgrade).
Few people have been left unscathed by the Covid-19 pandemic
and many have suffered financially. Couple this with the fact that
we’re driving less and you'll find that some people are considering
downgrading to a more budget-friendly vehicle. This buying-down
trend emerged before the pandemic and has now intensified
because of it. If you’re considering downgrading, let me help you with your
decision. A budget-friendly car doesn’t have to feel like a downgrade. Here
are four options that will keep a smile on your face and money in the bank.
64
TIGUAN
Priced from
R513 500
AA Traveller | WINTER 2021

Motoring
VOLKSWAGEN TIGUAN TO VOLKSWAGEN T-CROSS
Families need space, so I know what you’re
thinking: “How on earth can a family go
from a Tiguan to a T-Cross?” But hear me
out because it is doable (and just keep your
bank balance in mind).
The Tiguan has a boot capacity of
500 litres and a split rear seatback, but the
T-Cross is not small. The boot is 377 litres,
and the rear bench can slide forward to
create more space. While the Tiguan offers
more choice when it comes to its engine
line up, namely diesel and petrol options,
the T-Cross only offers a petrol engine,
but it is a good one. The 1.0 three-cylinder
turbopetrol in the T-Cross produces 85 kW
and 200 Nm of torque, so it is no slouch.
The claimed fuel consumption is very low:
4.9L/100 km. The 1.4-litre four-cylinder
turbopetrol in the Tiguan produces 92
kW and 200 Nm (so not far off from the
T-Cross) or 110 kW and 250 Nm. The
Tiguan also has 2.0 engines available, but
let’s compare apples with apples.
T-CROSS
Priced from
R345 700
When it comes to standard features, the
T-Cross (from the Comfortline model up)
will offer more than enough in the form
of all-round electric windows, a multifunction
steering wheel, park distance
control (front and rear) and cruise control.
The range topper will give you a wireless
charging pad and a host of other features.
These are all features that are found in
the Tiguan as well. And the T-Cross also
comes with a host of standard safety
features such as six airbags (dual front, side
and curtain), ABS with EBD and electronic
traction and stability control with hill-start
assist. The T-Cross comes standard with a
three-year/120 000 km warranty, a threeyear/45
000 km service plan and a 12-year
anti-corrosion warranty.
Don’t be put off by the car’s smaller size.
Take the T-Cross for a test drive, and I am
certain you will love it as much as you love
the Tiguan. And keep in mind that you’ll be
saving yourself around R200 000.
THREE TOP
TIPS WHEN
BUYING A CAR
1 BUDGET
This seems obvious, but
I can’t tell you how many
emails I have received from
people who have bought a car
that was above their means and
are now looking to downgrade.
When it comes to your budget
also consider other factors such
as fuel price, maintenance costs,
insurance, new tyres, etc.
2
DO THE
RESEARCH
I cannot express this
enough. Do not base your carbuying
decision on the look of
a car you’ve seen on the road.
Go online and read articles,
watch videos, get on forums
and take note of pricing, reviews
and feedback from existing
customers. The more you know
about the car you want to buy,
the better equipped you will be to
strike a fantastic deal.
3 KNOW
YOURSELF
You need to ask yourself
one main question when buying
a car (besides what you can
afford): “What are my needs
and requirements?” There is no
point in looking at a Mazda MX-5
if you have kids. Figure out how
much space you need, whether a
manual or automatic will suit you
best, do you have back issues
and require a car that’s easy to
get in and out of, do you travel
with kids or other passengers
most of the time, etc.
>
65
WINTER 2021 | AA Traveller

CRETA
Priced from
R374 900
66
HYUNDAI CRETA TO HYUNDAI VENUE
The first generation Creta, which launched
back in 2017, became one of South Africa’s
best-selling compact SUVs. The second
generation arrived last year and appears
to be heading in the same direction.
It’s no wonder why it’s so popular. It’s a
touch more spacious than most of its
competitors and offers customers real
value for money.
Before we chat about the Venue, let’s
look at the latest Creta. It's offered with
a choice of three engines. The 1.5-litre
naturally aspirated, four-cylinder petrol
unit gives you 84 kW and 143 Nm and a
claimed fuel consumption of 6.5L/100
km. The 1.5-litre turbodiesel produces
84 kW and 250 Nm and achieves 5.9L/100
km. The 1.4-litre turbopetrol produces
a rather sporty 103 kW and 242 Nm and
claims 7.1L/100 km. This engine is mated
exclusively to a dual-clutch transmission.
The value-for-money drawcard comes
from the standard specification offers
and Hyundai’s much-loved service and
warranty. Across the Creta range you can
expect air conditioning, Apple CarPlay
and Android Auto, electric side mirrors,
park assist, a rear park camera and
cruise control. The top spec models get
a wireless charging pad, LED daytime
running lights and artificial leather trim.
Safety wise, the range gets ABS with EBD,
electronic stability control, hill-start assist
and up to six airbags depending on model.
“Why on earth would I then opt for a
Hyundai Venue?” you ask. Well, because
it offers the same exceptional value
for money and costs almost R100 000
less. The engine of choice is a 1.0-litre
turbocharged, three-cylinder petrol unit,
which gives you 88 kW and 172 Nm. This is
similar to the 1.5-litre you find in the Creta
and both vehicles have the exact same
fuel consumption (6.5L/100 km).
When it comes to standard spec on
the Venue, you’re also getting just about
everything, especially if you look at the
Fluid or Glide models. They come with
a multifunction steering wheel, cruise
control, an eight-inch touchscreen with
Apple CarPlay and Android Auto, and
two USB ports. Safety features include
six airbags, ISOFIX anchorage points,
Electronic Stability Control, ABS with EBD
and hill-start assist.
So, you see why going from a Creta
to a Venue won’t feel like much of a
downgrade? The only major difference
is space, but the Venue still offers a
roomy cabin and a boot capacity of 350
litres (vs. the Creta’s 430 litres). Still not
convinced? Check out the Venue’s service
and warranty plan: a five-year/150 000
km vehicle warranty, seven-year/200
000 km drivetrain warranty and a threeyear/45
000 km service plan.
VENUE
Priced from
R297 500
AA Traveller | AUTUMN 2021

Motoring
COROLLA
HATCH
Priced from
R376 500
STARLET
Priced from
R209 000
TOYOTA COROLLA HATCH TO
TOYOTA STARLET
The Corolla name is synonymous with success.
Over the years, Toyota has sold about a
bazillion. In 2019, we saw the arrival of the
Corolla Hatch, and even though it’s seen as an
affordable car, some budgets don’t stretch that
far anymore. The most obvious alternative to it
is the Starlet.
The Corolla Hatch is essentially an Auris with
the name Corolla slapped on the back, but it
has a slightly slicker appearance. The interior,
although modern and packed with the latest
tech (the updated version that is), isn’t that
spacious, especially in the rear. So, you won’t
feel like you’re compromising on space if you
move to the Starlet.
And when it comes to features, there are
many similarities. The Starlet kicks off with
air-conditioning, electric power steering,
dual 12-volt power outlets, electric windows,
tilt-adjustable steering column, 60/40 split
rear seats, power-adjustable side mirrors and
remote central locking. The top of the range
XR model adds park distance control, reverse
camera, climate control, push-start and cruise
control. The Corolla Hatch models kick off with
dual-zone climate control, cruise control, a
reverse camera, one-touch power windows and
speed-sensitive door locking. There are a few
extras on the Xʀ model like leather upholstery
and Blind Spot Monitoring.
From an engine point of view, the Corolla
Hatch is powered by a 1.2-litre turbocharged
engine pushing out 85 kW and 185 Nm. The
claimed fuel consumption is 6.1L/100 km. The
Starlet is powered by a naturally aspirated
1.4-litre, four-cylinder engine producing 68 kW
and 130 Nm. Fuel consumption is claimed at just
5.1L/100 km (for the manual). Both the Corolla
Hatch and the Starlet are offered with manual or
automatic transmissions.
A side note on the Starlet: It’s actually a Suzuki
Baleno with a Toyota badge on it. Suzuki and
Toyota teamed up, and this was the first product
to come out of the collaboration. Whether you
opt for a Starlet or a Baleno, you'll buy a car that
is packed with standard spec and an aftersales
service with an excellent reputation.
The Starlet is sold with a three-services/45
000 km service plan and a three-year/100 000
km warranty. The Corolla Hatch comes with
six-services/90 000 km service plan and threeyear/100
000 km warranty. >
67
WINTER 2021 | AA Traveller

Motoring
AUDI A6
Priced from
R960 500
68
AUDI A6 TO AUDI A4
This is probably the one that feels the
least like a downgrade. These two cars are
so similar in so many ways, but you’ll be
saving yourself around R300 000. That’s
the cost of a Hyundai Venue, but we’re
not talking about budget cars now; we’re
talking about premium luxury, something
that customers in this segment don’t want
to compromise on. So, let’s take a closer
look at these two cars.
When you consider that most customers
are buying SUVs these days, it is a wonder
that manufacturers still insist on these
executive sedans. But take either the A6
or the A4 for a test drive, and you’ll realise
there is little to fault either. The A6 is the
bigger of the two and offers a little more
in terms of street cred (especially the firebreathing
S6, but let’s stick to the more
standard models).
The A6 comes with two engine variants.
The A6 40 TDI S tronic with its 2.0-litre
turbodiesel producing 140 kW and 400
Nm and the 45 TDI features a 3.0-litre
turbodiesel pushing out 183 kW and a
whopping 600 Nm.
For interest’s sake, the S6 is powered
by a 3.0-litre turbocharged V6 engine that
delivers 331 kW and 600 Nm.
The A4 offers three engine options. A
2.0-litre four-cylinder, turbocharged engine
producing 110 kW and 270 Nm, the more
potent version with 140 kW and 320 Nm.
And like the S6, there is an S4 with its
3.0-litre turbo pushing out 260 kW and 500
Nm. A diesel option will be out soon.
You’ll find Audi’s latest Touch Response
MMI screen and 12.3-inch Virtual Cockpit
in the A4 as well as in the A6. The A6’s
interior is slightly more premium with a
dual screen set up, but both cars have Audi
Connect as standard. It delivers internet
services to the car via an embedded SIM
and the myAudi app, which allows digital
access to the vehicle, anytime, anywhere.
The driver can access important vehicle
information, manage data and configure
and set up certain services. So, you can
call up real-time information about the
vehicle and keep an eye on the fuel level,
range, service appointments, warning
messages and other functions.
Both cars are excellent, but if you need
to tighten your belt, then going from an A6
to an A4 will hardly feel like a downgrade.
Even the boot space is similar: 530-litres on
the A6 vs. 480-litres on the A4.
Both ranges come standard with a
five-year/100 000 km Audi Freeway plan.
AUDI A4
Priced from
R666 500
Images supplied. Prices correct at time of going to press.
AA Traveller | WINTER 2021

Motoring
FIRST
IMPRESSIONS
If you’re in the market for a compact SUV, read on!
Motoring journalist Juliet McGuire shares her takes
on the Kia Picanto X-Line, Toyota Urban Cruiser,
Suzuki Vitara Brezza, Ford Figo Freestyle
and Audi Q3 Sportback.
MODEL CHOICE Kia Picanto 1.2
manual X-Line
PRICED FROM R237 995
SERVICE PLAN two year/30 000 km
WARRANTY five year/unlimited km
FUEL CONSUMPTION 5.0L/100 km
KIA PICANTO X-LINE
I cannot get enough of these pocketfriendly,
SUV-inspired hatchbacks. Kia
has added to its ever-popular Picanto
range by introducing the X-Line model.
You could call it the “adventurous”
Picanto. As Stephen Crosse, sales
director of Kia SA, put it: “It’s the perfect
car for here, there and anywhere.”
The X-Line has a series of bespoke
design details to make it stand out
from the standard Picanto. There is a
redesigned radiator grille as well as
a unique front and rear bumper, not
to mention the expected wheel-arch
mouldings and faux skid plates. The
15-inch alloy wheels complete the look.
Choose the new shade Astro Grey, add a
sunroof and you will be the most stylish
Kia Picanto X-Line on the road.
The inside features an eight-inch
touchscreen infotainment system with
Apple CarPlay and Android Auto. It also
boasts a reverse camera and parking
sensors. It replaces the previous Smart
spec level and adds two-tone artificial
leather upholstery. Not forgetting
all-round electric windows, automatic
headlight activation, electrically folding
mirrors, a colour instrumentation info
screen and vanity mirrors for the driver
and passenger.
At 255 litres, it has a similar boot size to
the Figo Freestyle, but the rear legroom
is not as generous. On the safety front,
you’re looking at two airbags and ABS
with EBD. And powering the X-Line is
a 1.2-litre engine giving you 61 kW and
122 Nm. You can opt for a four-speed
automatic transmission, but the fivespeed
manual would be my choice.
Thanks to the vehicle weighing way
under a tonne, it feels rather lively.
It’s only 5 mm higher off the ground
that its standard sibling, so you’ll need
to decide whether you want to pay for
what is really a bit of added styling cues.
Keep in mind, however, that it's well
equipped and feels upscale.
*The previous Picanto achieved a threestar
rating in the AA’s #SaferCarsForAfrica
programme. Its parts were the most expensive
in the city cars and entry level category of
the yearly AA-Kinsey report. The cars with
the cheapest parts in this category were, in
order, the Renault Kwid, the Ford Figo and the
Hyundai Atoz.
>
69
WINTER 2021 | AA Traveller

70
TOYOTA URBAN CRUISER
Just read my Vitara Brezza impression
on the opposite page if you want to
save yourself a few minutes because
the Toyota Urban Cruiser is a Vitara
Brezza with a Toyota badge stuck
on it. Jokes aside, this is the second
product to come from the Suzuki/
Toyota collaboration. First was the
Toyota Starlet, which is the Suzuki
Baleno with a Toyota badge on it.
Confusing, right! Let me add some
context: Manufacturers have been
collaborating for years because it
allows them to leverage each other’s
strengths. Toyota has hybrid technology
and Suzuki builds quality compact cars.
Together they make compact, hybrid
autonomous vehicles.
But back to the Urban Cruiser. As
much as it is the same car as the Vitara
Brezza, there are a few differences
worth mentioning. The Urban Cruiser
is offered in a three-guise strategy,
namely Xi, Xs and the range-topping XR.
All three models have a touchscreen
infotainment system boasting Apple
CarPlay and Android Auto, as well as
keyless entry and push start, all-round
electric windows, air-conditioning, tiltadjustable
steering, power-adjustable
mirrors, LED headlamps and LED
Daytime Running Lights, as well as Rear
Park Distance Control. The Xs adds
climate control and a reverse camera,
a secondary glove compartment, rear
armrest and 60/40 split backrest.
If you want all the bells and whistles,
you can opt for the flagship XR model,
which boasts automatic headlights,
cruise control, auto-dimming rearview
mirror, rain-sensing wipers, dual
12-volt power outlets, front armrest,
leather steering wheel and the
inclusion of two tweeter speakers. The
convenience factor is also amplified
by glove box illumination, a cooled
storage compartment, map reading
and front footwell lights, as well as
luggage compartment illumination.
You’ll probably notice that this is almost
identical to the Vitara Brezza offering,
but Toyota knows it needs to stand out
and has added, as standard to the lineup,
its Toyota Connect system, which
includes an in-car Wi-Fi hotspot and
once-off, complimentary 15GB data.
Once linked to your profile, you can
manage your vehicle via the MyToyota
App, for example schedule service
bookings, get vehicle information and
much more.
The Brezza’s 1.5-litre engine is also
found in the Urban Cruiser. The entrylevel
Xi model is only available with a
manual transmission, but the other two
models come with the automatic option
as well. Where Toyota doesn’t impress
as much as Suzuki is with its service
plan and warranty (three services/45
000 km and three years/100 000
km, resepectively). The Suzuki has a
four-year/60 000 km service plan and
MODEL CHOICE Toyota Urban Cruiser
1.5 XR manual
PRICED FROM R294 500
SERVICE PLAN three services/45 000 km
WARRANTY three year/100 000 km
FUEL CONSUMPTION 6.2L/100 km
five-year/200 000 km warranty. And the
Urban Cruiser is a tad more expensive.
But Toyota knows that it can rely on its
reputation as a reliable brand and the
drawcard of its huge dealer network.
Either way, both offer value for money
and are fantastic compact SUVs.
*The Urban Cruiser has not been tested in
the NCAP crash tests as part of the AA’s
#SaferCarsForAfrica programme. It's likely to
feature in the 2021 AA Kinsey Report, in which
the costs of vehicle parts are compared.
AA Traveller | WINTER 2021

Motoring
SUZUKI VITARA BREZZA
After a long wait, India’s most popular
compact SUV, the Vitara Brezza,
has finally hit local shores. Why is
it called the Vitara Brezza and not
just the Brezza? Because it makes
sense to use the legacy of the Vitara
name in a country where it’s rather
popular. This newcomer sits at the
bottom of the Vitara line-up, offering
customers an entry point to this range.
Compact SUVs are currently all
the rage. In fact, 20 percent of all
new passenger cars sold in South
Africa are compact SUVs, so it’s no
wonder Suzuki decided to bring its
bestseller to our shores. One reason
to love this category is the higher
ground clearance, and the Brezza
sits at 198 mm, so you can easily
navigate dumps and dirt roads.
The Brezza has sufficient space,
but don’t expect to put a rear-facing
baby seat in the back and then put
someone in the front passenger seat
because it’ll be a tight squeeze.
The boot is reasonable at 328
litres and will easily fit a compact
pram. The rear bench splits in a
60/40 configuration, which will
help with any odd-shaped parcels.
Overall, the Brezza has enough
space for a small family past the
rear-facing car seat phase.
Something it has in abundance is
value for money. Even though this is
a budget compact SUV, Suzuki has
your back in terms of tech and spec.
Both the GL and GLX come standard
with a large, seven-inch touchscreen
that boasts Apple CarPlay and Android
Auto, not to mention a reverse camera,
Bluetooth, an auxiliary and USB
port, as well as a multifunction
steering wheel, automatic climate
control, electric windows allround,
rear parking sensors,
remote central locking and a
rear armrest with cupholders.
The GLX model adds niceties
such as cruise control, a leather-clad
steering wheel, a centre armrest up
front, push-start button and keyless
entry, automatic rain-sensing wipers,
an auto-dimming rear mirror, autofolding
side mirrors, additional tweeters
for an overall sound experience and
even an air-conditioned glovebox.
Under the bonnet there is
a naturally aspirated, 1.5-litre
engine which produces 77 kW
of power and 148 Nm of torque.
You can choose between manual
or automatic. If it is convenience
you’re after, choose the automatic,
otherwise, the manual is great.
Suzuki also didn’t scrimp on
standard safety features. All models
come with ABS brakes with emergency
brake-force distribution and brakeassistance,
airbags for the driver and
front passenger, pre-tensioners and
force limiters on all seatbelts and
ISOFIX mountings for child seats.
MODEL CHOICE Suzuki Vitara Brezza
GLX manual
PRICED FROM R289 900
SERVICE PLAN four year/60 000 km
WARRANTY five year/200 000 km
FUEL CONSUMPTION 6.2L/100 km
The service plan and warranty are
class leading at four years/60 000
km and five years/200 000 km,
respectively. This alone will
certainly be a drawcard when
considering a compact SUV.
*The Vitara Brezza has not been tested
in the NCAP crash tests as part of the
AA’s #SaferCarsForAfrica programme.
However, it will most likely feature in
this year’s AA Kinsey Report, which
compares the costs of component parts
among cars in different categories.
>
71
WINTER 2021 | AA Traveller

72
FORD FIGO FREESTYLE
I’m all for budget cars trying to look
like SUVs. I can’t explain it because
it doesn’t make much sense. You’re
basically paying for kit (and a bump in
ground clearance) to make your car
look like something it’s not. But there is
something endearing about it, and the
Ford Figo Freestyle is very endearing.
But with strong competition from the
Suzuki Ignis, Renault Sandero Stepway
and the recently launched Honda WRV,
it has its work cut out for it.
So, what does the Figo Freestyle
offer? Well, it’s a crossover version
of the super successful Figo, which
now offers a smidge more space than
most of its budget car rivals. Add the
crossover treatment and you’ve got
yourself the Figo Freestyle. The whole
SUV craze involves the desire for higher
ground clearance, and this little guy
offers 16 mm more than its standard
sibling. It has skid plates to make it
look even more like a SUV and bigger
wheels and wheel-arch mouldings. So,
you get kit as well as practicality, and
who doesn’t want to be able to better
manage bumps in the road?
There are two derivatives: the
Trend and the Titanium. The more
expensive Titanium has a 6.5-inch
colour display for the SYNC3 system,
which incorporates Bluetooth, Apple
CarPlay and Android Auto. It’s a shame
the Trend doesn’t offer this (these days
connectivity is a must). The Titanium
model also boasts a reverse camera,
keyless push-start, automatic climate
control, an auto-dimming rear-view
mirror, automatic headlamp activation
and rain-sensing wipers.
When it comes to safety, the
Titanium again is the way to go,
although the Trend does come with
driver and passenger airbags, ABS
brakes and remote central locking
with drive-away locking function. The
Titanium adds side and curtain airbags,
as well as Ford’s MyKey that allows
owners to programme a key for
younger drivers that can inhibit
incoming phone calls, restrict
top speed, reduce audio system
maximum volume and disable the
audio system altogether if occupants
are not using safety belts.
Both derivatives are powered by the
same naturally aspirated 1.5-litre petrol
engine that produces 91 kW (which is
3 kW more than the standard Figo but
believe me when I say that you won’t
feel it) and 150 Nm. The front wheels
are driven by a five-speed manual
gearbox which is slick and smooth
shifting. The fuel consumption is
claimed at a low 5.5L/100 km, although
I was seeing a slightly higher reading
of around 6.8L/100 km, which is still
quite low.
This car is great for those who are
looking for something with a little more
character than the average budget buy.
It offers quite a lot in terms of value for
money and excels when it comes to
standard spec levels and space. Did
I mention the boot is 256 litres? It isn’t
massive but competitive, and the rear
passenger space is very impressive.
If you can’t afford the much-loved
Ford EcoSport then consider the Figo
Freestyle.
MODEL CHOICE Ford Figo Freestyle 1.5 Titanium
PRICED FROM R263 200
SERVICE PLAN four year/60 000 km
WARRANTY four year/120 000 km
FUEL CONSUMPTION: 5.5L/100 km
* The Figo hasn’t been tested in the
NCAP crash tests as part of the AA’s
#SaferCarsForAfrica programme. In last year’s
AA Kinsey Report, which compares the costs
of vehicle parts, the Ford Figo came in second
in its category (city cars and entry level). Only
the cost of the Renault Kwid’s basket was
lower.
AA Traveller | WINTER 2021

Motoring
AUDI Q3 SPORTBACK
I like things to be practical, but I have
come to realise that not everyone
feels this way. Some cars are made for
people who pick style over practicality.
The Audi Q3 Sportback is a car for
such a person. I’ll always choose the
standard Audi Q3 (it offers more and
costs less), but having spent time in the
Q3 Sportback, I would be happy with
having it as my second car. I will, of
course, need more money in the bank,
but this is all hypothetical.
This is the first compact crossover
from Audi, and it’s a beautiful offering.
With its sloping roofline and sporty
elegance, it caters to the more image
conscious. What’s more, you can
choose from 10 exterior colours,
including the new metallic colour Dew
Silver. My favourite is Turbo Blue.
If you’re an S Line fan, you’ll be
happy to know that all the trimmings
are standard, including the prominent
aluminium elements around the grille,
bumper and air inlets. You might be
happy with 18-inch wheels, but you
can get 19-inch if you prefer. And then
for the real style-conscious individual,
you can check the Black Styling
Package box and get a more dynamic
appearance in the form of dark
surfaces on the bumpers and gloss
black detailing.
Unfortunately, the sportiness ends
with the exterior styling. The interior is
the same as the standard Q3 and as for
the drive, it’s also the same (albeit more
refined). The Q3 Sportback model of
choice for me, the 40 TFSI Quattro S
MODEL CHOICE Audi Q3 Sportback S
Line 35 TFSI S tronic
PRICED FROM R718 810
SERVICE/WARRANTY PLAN five year
/100 000 km Audi Freeway plan
FUEL CONSUMPTION: 7.3L/100 km
Line, is powered by a 2.0-litre, fourcylinder
turbopetrol engine producing
140 kW and 320 Nm. It’s not sluggish,
but it won’t blow your hair back. It’s
perfectly mated to a seven-speed
automatic transmission. You can opt for
the 35 TFSI S Line, but that is powered
by a less punchy 1.4-litre turbopetrol
engine. That said, it’s still a fantastic
engine and performs well, so unless
you really must have the quattro
system, then take the 35 TFSI for a spin.
It might provide all the power you need
but at a lower price.
Essentially, the Q3 Sportback is just
a sexier looking standard Q3. I hate to
use the word “sexy” here, but that’s
what it is. It is sleeker and more eyecatching,
but it’s more expensive than
the standard Q3, and you’re getting
less car in a way. That said, as
much as the boot is slightly smaller
(410 litres on the Sportback vs. 550
litres on the standard Q3) and the rear
seats don’t offer as much headroom,
it is by no means cramped inside.
You’ll just need to evaluate your
needs (and budget) to make an
informed decision.
*The Q3 hasn’t been tested in the NCAP crash
tests as part of the AA’s #SaferCarsForAfrica
programme and wasn't in the 2020 AA Kinsey
report. It may feature in the 2121 report.
73
Images: Supplied. Prices correct at time of going to press.
WINTER 2021 | AA Traveller

74
Travelling
safely in
dangerous
conditions
Rain, ice and snow, mud and gravel – many South
Africans motorists will have to brave at least one of
these in their lifetime. Here are safety tips on how to
get from A to B, whether in poor weather conditions
or on unusual driving surfaces, without incident.
AA Traveller | WINTER 2021

Motoring
S
outh Africa might not be the
biggest country on the map, but
weather patterns across regions
can differ quite significantly. If you
live in the north, you’re used to
driving in wet conditions in summer. Certain
areas have to deal with ice on the road. People
in the Cape experience all four seasons in a
week. And those who like to go off the beaten
track, often find themselves on gravel or
muddy roads. We share driving tips for four
different conditions – wet, ice and snow, mud
and gravel.
WINTER-PROOF YOUR CAR
Car batteries can give you more grief in
1 winter because more amps are needed to
start a cold engine. And you don’t want to get
stuck somewhere in the freezing cold with
a car that won’t start. Be sure to check that
your car battery is in good working order.
2 You should always ensure that your tyres
have enough thread, but it’s especially
important in wet, snowy and icy weather.
The law says you should have at least
1 mm tread, but many tyres have tread wear
indicators at 1.6 mm. If the thread is level
with the indicators, you need to replace
them.
3 As the days get shorter, many people
commute in the dark. Check that all your
lights are working properly.
4 Use a scraper (a credit card will work)
to remove frost that might have formed
on your windscreen overnight. Your car’s
air-conditioner can also help demist your
windscreen. Be sure that your windscreen is
completely clear before you drive.
5 Always have enough fuel. Remember that
you might get stuck, and you’ll need to keep
your car running to keep warm.
6 Check your wiper blades.
WET
It’s winter, and Western Capetonians will have
to brave wet conditions on the road (if you live
in an area that gets summer rain, save this info
for later). Tyres have only half as much grip
on wet road as dry ones, and crashes in wet
conditions are common:
■ It takes longer to come to a halt on wet
surfaces, so you’ll need to break earlier.
Double your safe following distance from
the car in front of you. If you haven’t checked
your brakes in a while, now is a good time to
do so.
■ Slow down! Adjust your speed to the
weather conditions. Just because the limit
is 120 km/h, it doesn’t mean you should
travel at this speed. And take it slow around
corners. Drive to the conditions.
■ Are both your front and back wipers working
properly?
■ Aquaplaning occurs when your car lifts off
the surface and skims across the water like a
speedboat. It’s a real danger when driving in
wet conditions. It can happen when the tread
on your tyres is so worn down that it can’t
channel water away. So, be sure to check
your tyres (do this regularly regardless of
the weather).
■ Keep your headlights on. It’ll improve your
visibility and make your car more visible to
other motorists.
■ Avoid low-lying bridges, even if you think
you can make it. The water may be deeper
than you think. Also, if you’re driving through
standing water, slow down before you enter
it. Driving too fast may cause the car to pull
to the side.
>
75
WINTER 2021 | AA Traveller

ICE AND SNOW:
Snow in South Africa? It’s more common
than you think. Come winter, many people
travel to places that are often blanketed
in snow, like Ceres in the Western Cape,
Hogsback in the Eastern Cape, Sutherland
in the Northern Cape or Sani Pass in
KwaZulu-Natal. Here are tips on driving in
icy or snowy conditions:
■ Slow and steady will get you to your
destination safely. Rather drive in a lower
gear, and take it slow around corners
(you should start decelerating before you
reach the turn).
■ Pull away in 2nd gear. Gently ease your
foot off the clutch to avoid wheel slip.
■ Drive as smoothly as possible. Tyres have
less grip on snow or icy roads, and any
sudden movements can cause them to
completely lose their grip.
■ We’ve mentioned that you should double
your stopping distance in wet conditions.
On snow you should triple it, and it
should be even more on ice.
■ If you want to slow down, use engine
braking (this means you release the
accelerator and shift down gears) instead
of the footbrake. Touch the brake to
indicate to those behind you that you are
slowing down. If you have an automatic
car, check if it has an ice mode setting.
■ When heading up a hill, you want to
keep your speed consistent and avoid
changing gears, so you don’t want to get
stuck behind a slower car. It might be
best to wait for the car in front of you to
finish climbing the hill before you head
up. Shift to a low gear when heading
downhill and avoid braking if possible.
■ In countries that experience a lot of snow,
you can buy snow tyres, but since our
weather is milder, they are rarely sold
locally. You can invest in snow chains
(especially if you’re driving on mountain
passes with compact snow). These are
fitted over your tyres and will give you
more traction.
■ Don’t use your windscreen sprayers
when it’s cold. The water will freeze onto
the windscreen, and your wipers won’t
be able to clear the ice.
■ Always keep your headlights on in
heavy snow.
■ If you hit an icy patch and lose control,
keep calm. You need to allow your
car to pass over the ice, so try to keep
your steering wheel straight. Avoid any
sudden movements and instead of
hitting the brakes, lift your foot off the
accelerator.
Snow and icy
conditions on the
Sani Pass
IS IT WORTH IT?
Before heading out in adverse
weather conditions, whether it be
rain or snow, ask yourself: "Do I
really need to go out? Can this trip
wait until later when the weather
is better?" If you can’t postpone
your trip, prepare for the eventuality
that you could get stuck for
an extended period. Remember
to take a fully charged cellphone,
blankets, appropriate clothing,
food and water.
76
SOURCES: AA.CO.ZA, ARRIVEALIVE.CO.ZA, BLOG.TRACKS4AFRICA.CO.ZA, CARANDDRIVER.COM,
EXPERTAFRICA.COM, MOBIL.COM, RAC.CO.UK, THEAA.COM, WIKIHOW.COM.

Motoring
MUD:
When it comes to mud, your best bet is to
avoid it completely. Mud that gets stuck
and dries on your undercarriage can cause
extra friction and wear. This can damage
your vehicle’s parts. If you have no choice,
remember to properly clean your car’s
undercarriage as soon as possible, and
keep these tips in mind:
■ Before driving through mud, get out of
your car and check how deep it is. You
can use a stick, otherwise you’ll have to
walk through the mud. Also check for any
debris. If it’s too deep, or there is debris,
turn around and choose another route.
■ Some cars have mud driving modes,
traction control or 4W drive. Activate
these if you have them. Otherwise, shift to
a lower gear (2nd or 3rd).
■ Try to maintain a steady, medium
speed. Don’t speed through the mud
(that’s dangerous), but you need some
momentum to get through it. If you need
to accelerate, press the accelerator pedal
slowly and gently. And don’t suddenly hit
the brakes.
■ Avoid deep ruts because you can easily
get stuck in them.
■ If you get stuck, there are several things
you can try. Try to “rock” your vehicle out
by switching between drive and reverse.
If your wheels spin continually, stop and
turn your tyres to an angle and try again.
For additional traction, lower your tyre
pressure. Two other options are pouring
sand onto the ground around your tyres
(assuming you travel with a bag of sand
or sand is freely available nearby) or
placing your car mats slightly under the
front of your tyres. Alternatively, dig your
tyres out with a shovel.
A bad secion of
the Pot River
Pass near Elands
Heights in the
Eastern Cape
Images: Getty Images/ Gallo Images
GRAVEL:
If you’re heading to a rural destination,
chances are you’ll have to drive on a gravel or
dirt road. Not all gravel roads are equal. Some
are easier to traverse than others, but most
sedan-type cars should be fine driving on this
type of surface. However, keep the following
in mind:
■ Are your tyres in good condition? Driving
on gravel or dirt with worn tyres is a recipe
for disaster.
■ Tyres, even those in good condition, have
less grip on gravel versus tarred roads.
This means you need to drive as smoothly
as possible. Avoid jerking the steering
wheel and sudden stops or accelerations.
For extra traction, you can decrease your
tyres between 10 and 20 percent. Just
remember to reflate them when back on a
tar road.
■ Slow down, especially when approaching
intersections, hills and corners! Even wellmaintained
gravel roads are dangerous
when travelling at high speeds. Also,
sections of the same stretch of road can
differ greatly, from loose to hardpacked
gravel. Driving at a slow speed will help
you stay in control. The worse the road
gets, the slower you should go.
■ Dust can affect visibility, and you might
share the road with farming vehicles,
cyclists or even escaped livestock. Driving
slower means you have more time to stop
for possible dangers. And on the subject of
dust – try to generate at little as possible by
slowing down when you drive past other
cars, people, cyclists, or any buildings or
homes. It’s the polite thing to do.
■ You’ll notice existing tracts in the road. Try
to stick to these.
■ Keep a safe following distance. You want to
give yourself enough time to brake safely if
need be. Increase your following distance
if dust obscures your vision. The car in front
of you can also kick up small rocks, and if
you’re too close behind, these can damage
your windscreen and headlights.
■ Be considerate. Many gravel roads are
quite narrow, so move to the side to allow
other vehicles to pass.
77
WINTER 2021 | AA Traveller

BY PETRO-ANNE VLOK
GOING TO
ZER
At first glance a zero-alcohol limit seems like the perfect solution to help curb drunk
driving in South Africa, but it’s much more complicated than that, says the AA.
78
Drunk driving is a serious problem in
South Africa. Even though research on
this topic is fragmented and disparate
(and needs to improve, says the AA), the
2016 Traffic Law Enforcement Review
Committee, which conducted a comprehensive review
of traffic law enforcement, stated that South Africa
is “known globally for having among the highest
number of traffic fatalities caused by drunk driving”.
And a 2020 report by the Road Traffic Management
Corporation, the South African Medical Research
Council and the University of South Africa found
that alcohol is implicated in at least 27.1 percent of all
fatal crashes involving driver error of any type. The
report adds that this number might be even higher.
Now, proposed amendments to the National
Road Traffic Act seek to reduce the
alcohol limit. The amendments
bill, which was published at the
end of October last year, wants
to change both the legal
blood alcohol content (BAC)
limit and breath alcohol
concentration, which are
currently 0.05g/100ml and
0.24g/1000ml respectively,
to zero.
You would think that this is a
step in the right direction, but the
80%
In a 2018 survey by the AA,
80 percent of respondents
said that there aren’t enough
law enforcement efforts that
focus on combatting drinking
and driving.
AA believes that going to zero is going to do little to
improve road safety, that it’ll overburden an already
under-resourced traffic law enforcement sector, and
it might even criminalise innocent drivers.
“We’re by no means advocating drunk driving,”
says Layton Beard, AA Public Relations Manager.
“We’re saying that we currently have good laws
in place – the 0.5 level is a good limit and in line
with world standards – but the laws we currently
have aren’t properly enforced. Creating a piece
of legislation won’t make a difference if the
implementation framework isn’t strengthened.”
It won’t change driver behaviour:
The AA believes that people who drive drunk
won’t alter their behaviour because they know that
regardless of what the limit is, chances are slim
that they will face serious consequences
if caught. Many South Africans believe
they can drive drunk because it’s
unlikely that they’ll be arrested, and
even if they are, chances are they
won’t be prosecuted.
“Some even see getting away
with drunk driving as a badge of
honour,” Layton adds. And this
belief is based on facts: “Only six to
seven percent of drunk driving cases
are prosecuted,” Layton states. The
AA Traveller | WINTER 2021

Special report
ADDITIONAL SOURCES: RTMC.CO.ZA; AA.CO.ZA
Images: Getty Images/Gallo Images
whole implementation framework – law enforcement,
state laboratories and the prosecution structure – is
severely strained and struggling to cope, he explains.
Firstly, there are too few traffic law enforcement
officers, and they don’t have the necessary resources,
whether it’s blood alcohol tests or cars, to properly
implement the law. “I’ve said this before – we need
more boots on the ground.”
He adds that there is a 96 percent backlog in
processing blood samples at laboratories, and the
turnaround period is over 11 months.
Add to this a court system that’s severely strained,
and you get a situation where most drunk driving
cases are never prosecuted.
The move to zero could result in an increase of
arrests (since more people could be over the limit),
and the AA believe it will stretch the overburdened
system even more. “If traffic police, the labs and the
courts are already struggling to cope with the amount
of drunk driving cases, what will happen if even more
people are arrested each year? The system will be too
stretched,” Layton adds.
It will criminalise innocent drivers
A zero limit means that anyone with even the
smallest trace of alcohol could be arrested and
treated as a criminal. The AA says that the proposal
fails to consider the following factors, which can
result in many drivers unfairly ending up with
criminal records:
1. Medication and antiseptic products: If you use
mouthwash or medicine, like cough syrup, you could
end up with a positive breath test result.
2. Gut fermentation system (auto-brewery
syndrome): The fermentation of ingested
carbohydrates in the gastrointestinal tract can
result in a temporary spike in an alcohol reader on a
breathalyser.
3. Alcohol in religious activities: Small amounts
of alcohol used for religious purposes, for example
sacramental wine, communion wine, altar wine,
won’t impair driver behaviour, but it will deliver
positive results.
In the AA’s comments on the bill, which they
sent to the Parliamentary Portfolio Committee on
Transport in November last year and expanded on
in oral submissions to the committee in March, they
propose that the limit be changed to 0.2%. This will
cover the situations mentioned above.
What does the AA propose?
Better enforcement and education are key. Instead
of a zero-alcohol limit, the AA would prefer a zerotolerance
approach to drunk driving. “There is a
huge difference between a zero-alcohol limit and zero
tolerance,” Layton explains. “Zero tolerance means
that everyone in the value chain – law enforcement,
the labs and the prosecution – treat drunk driving
offenders as priority cases. Zero tolerance means the
system is working as it should to prosecute drunk
drivers, but unfortunately that’s not the case.” There
should be more traffic law enforcement officers out
on the road, and they should have all the necessary
equipment to test for drunk driving. The state
laboratories and courts should also be beefed up
to effectively prosecute cases. “People should fear
drinking and driving. They must believe that they
will get caught and face serious consequences,”
Layton adds.
Public awareness and education campaigns that
carry the message that drunk driving is dangerous
and anti-social behaviour should be ramped up.
“Drunk driving isn’t stigmatised. Some people are
even proud of the fact that they do it, and that needs
to change,” Layton says.
The AA believes that a more holistic approach to
road safety is needed, and they stand by their support
of the wide-raging proposals put forward by the 2016
Traffic Law Enforcement Committee. Trying
to solve just one issue – drunk driving
– won’t effectively deal with the
country’s annual road fatalities
since there are various other
factors at play. For
example, pedestrians are
the road user group with
most fatalities on South
African roads, and the
AA says more attention
should be given to the
issue of drunk walking.
*At time of going to print, the National
Road Traffic Amendment Act, which will
move the alcohol limit to zero, was set
to come into force by June 2021.
21%
The amount of responds in a 2018
survey by the AA who said that
it would be “very easy” to bribe
a police officer if caught drunk
driving. Sixteen percent answered
“easy” and 31 percent said
“somewhat easy”.
79

Blockbusters
CROSSWORD 96
Capital of
Zimbabwe
Recede
Condiment
Prison
room
Take by
force
Lie on
the beach,
eg
Walled
hilltop
town in
Tuscany
(3,9)
Bullets
Network
Hiking
shoe
Thwart
Utilise
North
(abbr)
Indefinite
article
Garble
Prohibit
Jogged
Hazy
Seaweed
Computer
component
Originated
Heredity
unit
Prompt
"I see!"
Fizzy
drink
Astating
(symbol)
Exists
Arctic
abode
Articles
Bury
After
Hours
(abbr)
Hung
loosely
Big cats
Before
Until
now
Indium
(symbol)
Purpose
Ocean
Firesetting
crime
Scandium
(symbol)
Left of
the driver
Matures
Beam
Pismire
Oganesson
(symbol)
Sort
Pain
reliever
Season
Handle
Regatta
boats
80
Edinburgh
natives
Tuber
Thus
Not you
Timid
Street
Nobelium
(symbol)
Finished
In the
direction
Lather
Corn
units
Orchard
Canvas
holder
Annoy
Verse
writer
Edge
Crocus
bulb
Allow
Steal
Old
French
(abbr)
Green
space in
Manhattan
(7,4)
Either
. . .
Per
annum
(abbr)
Ferret-like
animal
Regret
Block
Belongs
to me
Appeared
Beer
ingredient
AA Traveller | WINTER 2021

Puzzles
QUIZ
SUDOKU Easy
Can you identify these South African locations?
1 The Khoi refer to this famous South African place as ||Hui !Gais,
which means “where the clouds gather”, “place of snakes” or
“stone place” – the latter refers a well-known stone building in the
city that has five bastions.
8 1 5
3 7 6 2 5 8
9 6 2 1
1 3 7
3
1 9 4
6 8 5 1
9 2 7 8 6 5
5 2 8
Images: Getty Images/ Gallo Images. Source: Plekname van Suider-Afrika. Answers: 1. Cape Town. 2. Spektakel Pass. 3. Vrede
2 This pass is located east of Buffelsrivier in a famous flower region.
It’s rumored that its name refers to an incident where a bunch of stately
women clumsily fell off an ox wagon.
3 The inhabitants of this Free State town quarrelled bitterly about
what to name the town. In the end, its Afrikaans names refers to
what follows the resolution of a dispute.
Crossword 95
G L D A T
H A V A N A B L O G S
L P T A W O K
P A R S E A T N U
A L S E A B K E
P I Z Z A H S C R U B B E D
M E E T S A K A Z E B R A
P R E T C H B I A S A Y
D E P O S E U N I F D
R E P H I L A N D E R E R
D I T T O A N T R E G O R E
O O P T P I E R C E R A
R U N N E R A M A D D M
S I E N A R A V E N U P
P U T T A T O L L S
P E N E A S E L A
Z I P P E R I N O
R E T I R E D N U T
SUDOKU Hard
6 2 5 9
3 2 5
3 7
9 1
2 5 8 7 6 3
8 1
7 5
9 2 7
3 1 4 8
6 1 2 4 8 5 9 3 7
7 3 4 2 9 1 5 8 6
8 9 5 6 3 7 1 4 2
9 6 1 8 7 3 2 5 4
2 5 8 9 1 4 7 6 3
3 4 7 5 2 6 8 9 1
4 2 6 7 5 8 3 1 9
1 8 9 3 4 2 6 7 5
5 7 3 1 6 9 4 2 8
sudoku
hard
2 6 8 9 1 5 4 3 7
3 7 1 4 6 2 5 8 9
5 4 9 8 7 3 6 2 1
9 1 3 6 4 7 2 5 8
8 5 4 2 3 9 7 1 6
7 2 6 1 5 8 9 4 3
6 8 5 3 9 4 1 7 2
4 9 2 7 8 1 3 6 5
1 3 7 5 2 6 8 9 4
sudoku
easy
81
WINTER 2021 | AA Traveller

Last word
The Kadett that put on a show
BY WICUS PRETORIUS
82
The red Opel Kadett
was an emergency
purchase. My green
Mazda had rusted away
under my feet, and
even though it was a 323, you could
(especially when it was raining) hear
it disintegrating 1-2-3 beneath you.
That was its final winter.
I soon realised that the red Kadett
was suffering from the same ailment;
before long it became evident that
its previous owner (a deceptively
good-natured oom) had patched
the bodywork of that 1400 more
than once – and by the time spring
arrived there were marks on the
rear hatch door and on two of the
windowsills. For a moment, I though
rust was one of those “optional
extras” you could order with a new
car. Leather seats, sunroof – and
paint that flakes and bubbles.
But there was more to come! Next
was a smoky exhaust, and spark
plugs that suddenly – and always
without warning – lost their spark
one by one. The Kadett would hiss
and sputter like a garden hose
cracking after being left in the sun
for too long. That car was literally
gasping for air.
But my rust bucket had an ace
up its sleeve: its ability to swallow
the entire holiday load of four
varsity buddies every December and
get us safely from Cape Town to
Herolds Bay.
We were old hands at camping,
so we were organised. Our beds
had to be warm, our drinks cold
and our feet clean. This meant that
the Coleman, a groundsheet and
small mattresses were the first to be
loaded. And a small dustpan brush,
plus the four-man tent of course.
And a camping chair for each of
us. Also, the braai grid, gas bottle
and ring burner. And a gas lamp.
And always the old transistor radio
with a wire hanger for an antenna
that was hung in the tree to supply
background music.
From Cape Town, there were only
three of us, which meant that half
of the back seat rest, divided into
two, could be collapsed to
make space for our clothes,
pillows and sleeping bags.
And for our food and booze
for the first night, which
always included two sixpacks
of Savannah because
that’s the number of bottle
tops you needed to hammer the
ground sheet into the ground
before you could pitch your tent.
Soft items could easily change
shape to fit into any small gaps.
The Kadett was packed to capacity
but the doors could close at least
– and as soon as we were over the
mountain at Sir Lowry’s Pass, that
Opel would be cruising and we’d all
be sitting comfortably.
But trouble awaited in Still Bay.
That’s where passenger number
four’s generous parents would
stand at the ready with half a sheep,
a bundle of firewood – and his
suitcase of course. And camping
chair. And sleeping bag and
pillow. The Kadett could take no
more stuff.
The Coleman, which was full of
maps, Blitz, takkies and other loose
items, was emptied and filled with
the meat. The loose items were
shoved under the front seats and in
the cubby hole.
The sleeping bags were unrolled
and stacked one on top of each
other on the back seat. The two
friends sitting there were raised, as
if in a Landy on safari, but the roof
was too low, so for the last 130 km,
they sat with their heads together
like Siamese twins.
Luckily, we didn’t have far
to travel. Unfortunately, it was
summer.
At our camping spot, the four
of us tumbled out of the car. Our
neighbours – fancy folk with a
brand-new bakkie and a Wilk
Amethyst caravan – were appalled.
WICUS
PRETORIUS is
the editor of the
décor magazine
Tuis|Home.
The rust on my Kadett wasn’t exactly
the precious gemstone that their
home-on-wheels had been named
after.
But we were considerate and
friendly… and (mostly) wellbehaved.
And towards the end of
the holiday, Oom Free State sent
over a bowl of lamb chops and
Tannie Free State sent lamingtons.
The Kadett may have failed in their
eyes, but we had passed the test with
flying colours!
It was only on the last day of
our holiday that I realised that it
was actually the Kadett that had
impressed our neighbour the most.
When we started to break up our
camp, Oom Free State pulled up
one of his own camping chairs, sat
down, cracked open a beer, and drily
remarked:
“I saw you piling out of this car,
but now I want to see how you get
back in – because it’s sure to be the
best show in town.”
And, sipping on his beer, he kept a
close eye on us, watching as the red
Kadett – rust and all – managed to
swallow four varsity buddies and all
their stuff: the Coleman, the ground
sheet, mattresses, the tent, camping
chairs, braai grid, gas cooker,
clothes, pillows and sleeping bags…
Oom Free State was the one left
gasping for air.
Illustration: Lynne Fraser
AA Traveller | WINTER 2021

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