Village Raw - ISSUE 9

VILLAGE RAW
FOOD & DRINK
So, if cheese is so addictive and in high demand, it raises the
question: how can we be more ethical about our cheese choices?
When purchasing cheese from a supermarket, consider the
long process involved in getting it on the shelf. Luckily, following
in the footsteps of craft beer, many of us now prefer to buy
our produce from smaller independent sources rather than mass
produced cheese from the supermarket, as it’s fresher, contains
less waste and tastes better. In the pursuit of cheese that fits
this criteria, I embarked on a serious cheese hunt to find the best
produce in the area.
North London suburbs Muswell Hill, Crouch End and Hornsey
stand out as cheese positive hotspots, boasting some of the
finest independent cheese shops. An obvious place to start is
Cheeses in Muswell Hill. The shop is wedged between a string of
boutiques on Fortis Green Road, just off the Broadway - and it’s
been a reliable local cheesemonger for 39 years. Yellow bitesize
cubes are placed on a table outside the shop to lure cheese lovers
in, like mice to a trap. On entry, a selection of jams, quince
and pickles sits on top of a counter containing wheels of yellow
cheese. The shop sets itself apart by supporting small cheese
producers, buying directly from suppliers instead of wholesalers.
Owner of Cheeses, Morgan McGlynn, spends one month
out of the year individually picking the cheeses she stocks in
the shop. She told us: “It’s really important to me to know exactly
where it’s coming from, the family that’s producing it, the
way that they’re making the cheese, the herds they’re using.”
With regard to the farms they buy from, many producers that
they work with use their own sheep, cows or goats which means
they’re not buying the milk in.
Referring to sustainability, Morgan says: “In terms of the shop,
everything we use is biodegradable, including all the bags and the
cling film.” A unique solution to saving energy comes in the form
of an old war bunker which the shop uses to mature the cheese.
It uses zero refrigeration because it’s so damp and built into a hill
and is just another way that they reduce energy use. Keeping food
miles in mind, Cheeses relies on a single person to collect and
deliver the cheese on a weekly basis, instead of having several
trucks making deliveries around London. On the rare occasion of
there being any leftover cheese, it is given to a local food bank.
It’s safe to say that when it comes to buying sustainably, Cheeses
makes it very easy.
Meanwhile - just down the hill in Hornsey - is Middle Lane Market
which offers a variety of specialist foods, including a selection
of about 40 different farmhouse and artisan cheeses. The shop’s
owners, wife and husband team Kelly and Andrew Shearer, focus
largely on reducing waste and offer sustainable purchase options
such as refill services on beer and wine - in addition to selling
ethical brands in store. When purchasing cheese at Middle Lane
Market you’re in the hands of a professional as Andrew previously
worked for five years at the famous cheesemonger, La Fromagerie
- before opening his shop in Hornsey. Kelly tells us: “We keep
our selection of cheese not too big so that we can make sure
everything is in good condition.” Whether you’re buying a wedge
or wheel, the cheese comes wrapped in parchment paper which
keeps the cheese fresh and offers a more sustainable packaging
than single-use plastic. Not only does this process help to reduce
plastic waste but it also allows you to buy the correct quantities
while enjoying a better taste, as plastic contains chemicals which
affect the taste of the product.
It’s no secret that wine and cheese go hand in hand and there’s
no better place to enjoy both of these things than The Crouch End
Cellars. No two visits can ever be the same because their cheese
selection is forever rotating due to a focus on seasonal cheeses.
The Crouch End Cellars offers predominantly European produce,
with the majority of their 45 cheeses coming from France and Italy
and the rest from the UK. Owner Andrea Coaro told us: “Many of
these cheeses come from very small cheese producers who use
milk from their own dairies.” The Cellars have a good relationship
with both wine and cheesemakers which means there’s often a
great tale behind each purchase and the staff are brimming with
new recommendations. The Cellars doubles up as a deli or a place
to relax, with a courtyard garden at the back which makes enjoying
a glass of wine and cheeseboard feel a lot like being abroad.
It’s clear that the demand for artisan cheese is picking up and
other local shops, such as Provisions on Holloway Road and Wildes
Cheese in Tottenham (a well-known regular at Alexandra Palace
Farmers Market) are making a name for themselves. By supporting
these independent food businesses we are actively contributing
to sustainable farming and cheesemaking whilst reducing waste.
There’s no better way to celebrate artisan cheese than by popping
into your local cheesemonger and buying some of the good stuff.•
Previous pages: The new kid on
the block – Middle Lane Market.
These pages (left to right): A large
cheese wheel at Muswell Hill’s Cheeses
shop. Morgan behind the counter
at Cheeses. Andrea cutting a wedge
of cheese at The Crouch End Cellars.
Find out more about the cheese shops at:
Cheeses of Muswell Hill, 13 Fortis Green Road, N10 3HP. www.cheesesonline.co.uk
Middle Lane Market, 226 Middle Lane, N8 7LA. www.middlelanemarket.com
The Crouch End Cellars, 55 The Broadway, N8 8DT. www.thecrouchendcellars.com
You can find Honestly Tasty cheeses at Harmless Store, 79 Tottenham Ln, N8 9BE.
www.harmlessstore.co.uk / www.honestlytasty.co.uk
36
37