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VOICE OF THE AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY INDUSTRY AUGUST 2021

Cut and colour

A GUIDE TO FANCY AND CLASSIC

COLOURED GEMSTONE CUTS

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AUGUST 2021

Contents

This Month

Industry Facets

15 Editor’s Desk

16 Upfront

18 News

34

36

38

10 YEARS AGO

Time Machine: August 2011

MY STORE

Colette

NOW & THEN

Offe Jewellers

41

LEARN ABOUT GEMS

Diaspore

104

MY BENCH

Andy McGee

51 Jewellers Showcase

106

SOAPBOX

Ryan Purdie-Smith

61 CHRISTMAS STOCK SPECIAL

Show & Tell

4Discover the array of exciting new

products ready to stock for the buying

season with Jeweller's special.

Features

42

54

LAPIDARY DESIGN FEATURE

Coloured Gemstones: A Cut Above

LUXURY SECTOR FEATURE

LVMH: Why No Other Company Compares

94 CONSUMER FEATURE

Alpha Wave

61

94

CHRISTMAS STOCK SPECIAL

Show & Tell

CONSUMER FEATURE

Meet Generation Alpha

4ARABELLA RODEN explores Generation

Alpha, the consumers of tomorrow, and how

businesses can adapt to their shopping habits.

Better Your Business

98

100

101

102

103

BUSINESS STRATEGY

DENYSE DRUMMOND-DUNN reveals a new paradigm for marketing.

SELLING

A new financial year is an opportunity to turbo-charge sales, writes SUE BARRETT.

MANAGEMENT

Find out how to enjoy your work and create balance with DAVID BROWN's tips.

MARKETING & PR

STEVEN VAN BELLEGHEM reveals the secret to Netflix's success.

LOGGED ON

SIMON DELL concludes this guide to Instagram Shops in the final of two articles.

41 LEARN ABOUT

Diaspore

4The interplay of colour

and light is essential

to understanding these

fascinating, colourchanging

gemstones.

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Pink Diamond Exchange is the

first Australian marketplace made

exclusively for pink diamond investors

and enthusiasts. Buy and sell pink

diamonds with absolute confidence

using this advanced technology

platform, backed by a team with more

than 25 years of experience working

with certified Argyle pink diamonds.

apdx.com.au

August 2021 | 11


Items featured above, top to bottom:

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Rescheduled

Dreams

Come True

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Editor’s Desk

From billion-dollar valuation to bankruptcy:

Lessons of the Alex and Ani saga

ARABELLA RODEN examines how management missteps created

a perfect storm for a once-prosperous jewellery business.

It’s an all-too familiar story – an exciting new

business, powered by a charismatic founder,

rockets to stratospheric success.

Investors jump on board, followed by

speculators, further inflating valuations – and

expectations. Then, inevitably, the cracks

begin to show; overexpansion leaves orders

unfulfilled, budgets and targets go unmet,

retailers feel frustrated, and inexperiencedyet-overconfident

management scrambles for

more financial resources.

The jewellery industry has witnessed its

share of these scenarios, and the most recent

example is Alex and Ani – touted as one of the

industry's great success stories of the 2010s.

Founded in 2004 by Carolyn Rafaelian, Alex

and Ani rode the charm bracelet wave to

meteoric heights, at one point employing

more than 1,000 people and boasting a

market valuation of $US1 billion.

Rafaelian once claimed, “Alex and Ani’s total

sales have increased over 11,000 per cent

between 2010 to 2014.”

However, in a not unfamiliar story, two

months ago the company filed for Chapter 11

bankruptcy – roughly equivalent to voluntary

administration under Australian law.

According to Forbes, Alex and Ani's sales fell

precipitously during the COVID-19 pandemic,

dropping from an estimated $US400 million

in 2019 to $US240 million in 2020. Staff had

halved to 524 employees and the business

was saddled with more than $US150 million

in debt.

So, what went wrong?

Leadership lacking

With a personal fortune of $US900 million,

Rafaelian – who inherited Alex and Ani’s

manufacturer, Cinerama Jewelry, from her

father – once featured on the cover of Forbes

magazine’s ‘Richest Self-Made Women’ issue,

and imbued Alex and Ani with her own New

Age spirituality, from numerology to poetry

and shamanic blessings.

Yet according to some industry pundits,

much of Alex and Ani’s early success could

be attributed not to Rafaelian’s spiritual

alignment but to CEO Giovanni Feroce, who

led the business from 2010 to 2014.

Under his tenure, Alex and Ani’s annual

revenue reportedly increased from $US2.2

million to $US230 million. Feroce placed

great emphasis on marketing as well as ‘High

Street’ retail over shopping centre locations.

Amid rumours of a personality clash with

Rafaelian, he left the company and Rafaelian

took over as CEO. An exodus of senior

leadership took place in the ensuing months,

including its chief financial officer, chief

technical officer, chief strategy officer, chief

digital officer, acting chief operating officer,

and vice-presidents of retail and wholesale.

A business is only as good as its staff.

While labour is one of the highest costs to a

company, productive employees – particularly

in key operational roles – are also one of its

greatest assets.

Losing senior staff led to a vacuum of

‘institutional knowledge’ at Alex and Ani,

as well as the disruption of “key business

relationships”, according to its 2021

bankruptcy filing.

Indeed, Alex and Ani lost its Australian and

New Zealand supplier, House of Brands, after

barely two years following failed negotiations.

Declining distribution

Despite its management problems, Alex and

Ani’s jewellery was still in demand and the

business was striving to keep pace.

In the bankruptcy filing, current CEO Bob

Trabucco noted, “Alex and Ani’s explosive

growth in the early 2010s resulted in certain

operational challenges as the company’s

existing infrastructure struggled to keep up

with demand for its products.”

Put simply, the business’ leaders did not

adequately prepare for success – nor did

they adapt to changing conditions, creating a

cumulative negative effect.

According to Forbes, the business began

to falter, leading to “haphazard” product

distribution and delivery. Management then

implemented a strategy similar to that

of Pandora Jewelry, opening more of its

Put simply,

the business’

leaders did not

adequately

prepare for

success – nor

did they adapt

to changing

conditions,

creating a

cumulative

negative effect

company-owned ‘concept’ stores while

slashing retailer accounts – which once

numbered nearly 2,000.

This strategy has its own pitfalls; more

concept stores means higher costs, while

fewer retailer accounts leads to fewer

opportunities for sales and promotion.

By the time of Alex and Ani’s bankruptcy

filing, the wholesale channel accounted for

just 19 per cent of revenue.

Financing fumble

Alex and Ani also attempted to follow a

Pandora-like vertical integration model,

securing a $US170 million loan in 2016 from

a consortium led by Bank of America (BOA),

of which $US100 million was reportedly used

to purchase its manufacturer, Cinerama

Jewelry, from Rafaelian.

That decision would prove to be instrumental

in Alex and Ani’s downfall.

In December 2018, BOA claimed a loan

repayment was missed and withdrew access

to its credit line. With its cash flow severely

disrupted, Alex and Ani was left unable

to purchase seasonal inventory, which it

claimed led to a steep decline in sales.

Rafaelian was then forced to restructure the

company and launched legal proceedings

against BOA, seeking $US1 billion in

damages. BOA disputed the allegations

and the legal claim was later dropped, with

Rafaelian ultimately forced out by majority

shareholder Lion Capital.

Alex and Ani reportedly defaulted on its credit

agreements three more times, with BOA

calling for the business to be sold – though

Lion is insisting on further restructuring.

Notably, a former Pandora executive is now

chairman of Alex and Ani.

Ultimately, the Alex and Ani saga shows that

even a fairytale business can fall victim to

management misfires. What's more, it’s not

the first example in the jewellery industry –

and it won’t be the last.

Arabella Roden

Editor

August 2021 | 15


Upfront

#Instagram hashtags to follow

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#emeraldjewelry

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HISTORIC GEMSTONE

The

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Alpha Order

4Now part of Her Majesty Queen

Elizabeth II’s collection, the Timur Ruby is in fact a spinel. Weighing

352.5 carats, it was once believed to be the largest ruby in the world and

is enscribed with the names of its past owners, including 14th Century

conqueror Timur – who is said to have first acquired it after sacking Delhi in

1398 – and Mughal emperors Jahangir and Shah Jahan.

Following the British colonisation of India, the spinel came into Queen

Victoria’s possession at the Royal Exhibition in London in 1851, later

being set into a gold necklace by jewellery house Garrard, designed to be

interchangeable with the Koh-i-Noor diamond. However, the necklace has

never been publicly worn.

Celebrity Style

Image credit: Boucheron Image credit: Getty Images

4The Cannes Film Festival made

a triumphant return following the

cancellation of last year’s event. While

the red carpet was – as usual – replete

with glittering jewellery, supermodel

Bella Hadid (above) stole the show,

wearing a Schiaparelli gold-plated brass

and rhinestone neckpiece, accented with

ruby earrings and a ‘Phoenix’ fire opal

ring by Chopard.

Stranger Things

Weird, wacky and wonderful

jewellery news from around the world

Foot the bill

4An NBA player has made

headlines for wearing real diamond

sneakers during Game 6 of this

year’s finals. PJ Tucker, of the

Milwaukee Bucks – who won the

match and the championship –

donned custom-made Nike Air

Jordan 1s encrusted with 2,020

white diamonds set in 14-carat

white gold. Valued at $US250,000

($AU339,611), the deluxe pair

was crafted by jeweller Jason

of Beverley Hills and footwear

customiser The Shoe Surgeon.

Stock ticker

4A Korean company has begun

selling ‘fractional ownership’ of

luxury watches as an investment

product. Piece allows consumers

to invest between KRW100,000–20

million ($AU117.60–23,520.65) in

a ‘package’ of Rolex watches, with

a dividend paid once the models

are sold. The most recent package

featured 11 watches and earned

investors a 23 per cent return,

according to Piece.

The report found

ad-driven content

on Instagram

had far higher

engagement than

‘organic’ posts.

Digital Brainwave

4A new report by digital marketing

firm Spike and social media analytics

tool SocialInsider has compared the

effectiveness of social media channels for

jewellery businesses over two years.

While the engagement rate was higher on

Instagram posts than Facebook, the report’s

authors noted Facebook saw more ‘spikes’,

indicating room for improvement.

The best-performing Instagram posts were

carousels and ‘status’ style posts.

Jewel Watch

4French jewellery house Boucheron

has unveiled its latest collection,

entitled Holographique, designed

by creative director Claire Choisne.

Inspired by rainbows and the Aurora

Borealis, the 25-piece range features

coated ceramics and rock crystal,

enamel, diamond pavé, aquamarine,

yellow sapphire, and white opal.

Sneaky swap

4A court case over the 2016 theft

of seven diamonds, valued at £4.2

million ($AU7.8 million), from UK

jeweller Boodles took a twist in July

with the defendant – who was later

found guilty – claiming her dead sister

was responsible. The Romanian

woman posed as a valuation expert

and swapped the diamonds for

pebbles. However, she claimed

her sibling – who had a string of

convictions for theft and money

laundering – stole her passport and

committed the crime.

VOICE OF THE AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY INDUSTRY

Published by Befindan Media Pty Ltd

Locked Bag 26, South Melbourne, VIC 3205 AUSTRALIA | ABN 66 638 077 648 | Phone: +61 3 9696 7200 | Subscriptions & Enquiries: info@jewellermagazine.com

Publisher Angela Han angela.han@jewellermagazine.com • Editor Arabella Roden arabella.roden@jewellermagazine.com • Production Assistant Lauren McKinnon art@befindanmedia.com

Digital Co-ordinator Trish Bucheli-Preece trish@jewellermagazine.com • Advertising Toli Podolak toli.podolak@jewellermagazine.com • Accounts Paul Blewitt finance@befindanmedia.com

Copyright All material appearing in Jeweller is subject to copyright. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly forbidden without prior written consent of the publisher. Befindan Media Pty Ltd

strives to report accurately and fairly and it is our policy to correct significant errors of fact and misleading statements in the next available issue. All statements made, although based on information

believed to be reliable and accurate at the time, cannot be guaranteed and no fault or liability can be accepted for error or omission. Any comment relating to subjective opinions should be addressed to

the editor. Advertising The publisher reserves the right to omit or alter any advertisement to comply with Australian law and the advertiser agrees to indemnify the publisher for all damages or liabilities

arising from the published material.


Supplying Australia Since 1974


News In Brief

Alrosa introduces

laser 'nanomarking'

4 Alrosa – the world's largest diamond

producer by volume – has introduced new,

non-invasive diamond tracing technology.

Developed alongside scientists from the

Russian Academy of Science and the

Yakutniproalmaz Institute, the technology

allows a laser 'nanomark' to be imprinted

inside a diamond's crystal lattice, making

it impossible to destroy or remove through

polishing but invisible without a scanner.

Rise in searches for

'engagement watches'

4 New research by online shopping

platform Lyst has noted a 42 per cent rise

in consumer searches for 'engagement

watches', 'couple watches' and 'wedding

watches'. In Lyst's Wedding 2021

Report, content lead Morgan Le Caer

notes, "This season, more couples

have been foregoing traditional rings as

engagement presents, instead opting for

gender-neutral watches."

New distributor for Swarovski

lab-created diamonds

Duraflex Group Australia is the new distributor for

Swarovski's range of lab-created diamonds.

Duraflex Group Australia (DGA) has inked an

exclusive distribution deal with Swarovski to

supply its Created Diamonds to the local market,

with the range available from the end of July 2021.

Swarovski Created Diamonds are only supplied

as loose stones, rather than finished jewellery, in

sizes 0.50–2.50 carats with other sizes on request,

and are available in six shapes and 17 colours,

including white (colourless) and 16 fancy colours –

which it claims is “the most extensive assortment

of hues available on the global market today”.

All lab-created diamonds are hand-selected and

graded with the ‘four Cs’ by in-house Swarovski

gemmologists, and those weighing 0.70 carats or

larger are accompanied by a grading report from

the International Gemological Institute (IGI) and a

Swarovski Quality Certificate.

Lab-created diamonds weighing 0.10 carats or

larger are laser engraved to ensure authenticity.

Phil Edwards, managing director DGA, told

Jeweller, "We are all aware that the created

diamond market is rapidly growing with

significantly more consumer awareness and an

undeniable increasing demand, and we wanted to

offer our retail partners a superior quality product

to meet their customers' needs.

"We will support and work together with our retail

partners to ensure the benefits of stocking this

unique brand are maximised."

DGA will carry an extensive range of the stones

including fancy colours, and have access to the

global stock-on-hand for immediate delivery.

In addition, retailers will have access to the

Swarovski Created Diamonds Retail Program.

As of 2020, Swarovski Created Diamonds were

manufactured at independent facilities in

Switzerland, India, the US and China, with colours

induced through treatments such as irradiation.

Previously, the range was exclusive in Australia to

the Showcase Jewellers buying group.

Richemont doubles

quarterly sales

4 Swiss luxury group Richemont –

parent of Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels,

Baume & Mercier, IWC Schaffhausen,

and others – has indicated its sales have

more than doubled in the three months

to 30 June, reaching €4.4 billion ($AU7.1

billion). The increase is attributed to a

strong performance in North America,

and a 43 per cent rise in jewellery

category sales.

Nationwide continues to reward members

conference, and to acquire gifts from the group’s

Rewards Redemption catalogue.

According to Colin Pocklington, managing

director Nationwide Jewellers, “Every time a

member purchases from one of our preferred

suppliers, their settlement discount plus their

rewards benefit equates to an additional 4 per

cent saving, over and above the usual group

trade discounts.”

'Exceptional' 342-carat

diamond found

4 Petra Diamonds has recovered a

342.92-carat Type IIa white rough stone

at the iconic Cullinan Mine in South

Africa. The diamond is described as

“exceptional” in terms of both colour

and clarity, and that is likely to be

sold at Petra's September tender. The

company sold a 299.3-carat Type IIa

stone for $US12.2 million in March and

a 39.34-carat blue diamond for $US40.2

million in July.

Buying group Nationwide Jewellers has introduced a

successful members' reward scheme.

Nationwide Jewellers, Australia and New

Zealand’s largest buying group, issued more

than 10 million ‘reward points’ during the 2020-

2021 financial year.

Under the program, Nationwide’s 391 members

can earn points when they purchase products

and/or services from preferred suppliers, and by

participating in various Nationwide events.

The earned reward points can then be redeemed

for free attendance at Nationwide’s annual

He explained that more than 192 members have

accumulated sufficient points to attend the 2022

annual conference at no cost.

“Members can even use their points to book

hotel rooms at trade fairs,” Pocklington added.

“We have seen very strong support for our

preferred suppliers since the new scheme

commenced, and there is no doubt that

members appreciate the added benefits

that the scheme provides."

All Australian and New Zealand members have

been mailed their 2020/21 Rewards Statement

along with an updated Reward Redemption

catalogue.

18 | August 2021


To schedule an appointment, please contact us:

L. J. WEST DIAMONDS INC. | 589 5th Ave, Suite 1102 | New York, NY 10017, U.S.A. | T +1 212 997 0940

L. J. WEST AU PTY LTD | Level 9, 225 St Georges Terrace | Perth, WA 6000, Australia | T +61 40 997 6981

William@LJWestDiamonds.com | www.LJWestDiamonds.com | www.ScottWestDiamonds.com


Sydney jewellery fair cancelled; new

events launched for October

The Blush Pink range is an epitome

of charm and opulence intertwined

together. Delicate and utterly

elegant, it features affordable styles

that retain an exquisite sense of

rare luxury.

The 2021 International Jewellery & Watch Fair has been cancelled, with two new

buying events announced for Sydney and Brisbane in October.

With continuing high COVID-19 case

numbers and an extended lockdown

in greater Sydney, organiser

Expertise Events has cancelled the

upcoming International Jewellery

& Watch Fair, (IJWF) however

two new events are launching in

Brisbane and Sydney.

The IJWF, due to take place at

the ICC Sydney Exhibition Centre

in Sydney’s Darling Harbour, was

previously postponed from 29–30

August to 24–27 September 2021.

Gary Fitz-Roy, managing director

Expertise Events, said it was

“devastating” to cancel what would

have been the 30th IJWF.

“It’s clear that the situation is not

improving quickly enough to have

confidence that the September dates

in Sydney can proceed to the scale

that it has been previously,” Fitz-Roy

said in an email to exhibitors.

“It was an extremely difficult

decision to make, but ultimately

the health and safety of everyone

involved and limiting the potential

threat of spreading the virus was

the most important consideration,

as is the confidence of our

visitor audience to attend large

gatherings.”

Expertise Events confirmed the next

IJWF will take place from Saturday

27 to Monday 29 August 2022.

“Our staff are immensely grateful

for the understanding, kindness and

unwavering support everyone has

demonstrated during these very

difficult and trying times and we

promise to reward this support with

the most memorable trade show

ever next year.”

Fitz-Roy acknowledged that

suppliers and retailers were

depending on this year’s Sydney fair

to meet face-to-face in time for the

crucial Christmas and New Year

sales periods.

Taking this into consideration,

Expertise Events has announced

new buying days, similar to the

successful Trade Days format earlier

this year.

Named Stock Up & Top Up (SUTU),

the events are scheduled to be

held at:

• Brisbane: 9–10 October 2021 at

the Brisbane Convention Centre

• Sydney: 23–24 October 2021 at

the ICC Darling Harbour

Both will have capped exhibitor

numbers; IJWF exhibitors will be

invited to attend first, with the ability

to ‘roll over’ their deposits to SUTU

or to the 2022 IJWF.

“As you will understand, our office is

closed but we will do our very best

to call you personally to seek your

instructions,” Fitz-Roy said.

All buying groups are invited,

with Nationwide Jewellers and

Independent Jewellers Collective

already committing their support.

E pink@samsgroup.com.au W samsgroup.com.au P 02 9290 2199


aume-et-mercier.com Riviera automatic, 42 mm

Proudly distributed by

(02) 9417 0177 | www.dgau.com.au


Class-action lawsuit calls for jewellery

and gemstone businesses

Damien Cody, director of Cody Opal Australia, is among the plaintiffs in the classaction

over pandemic insurance payouts. Image credit: ABC News/Kyle Harley

Watch: Jack

Proudly distributed by

Gordon Legal, which is representing

a number of businesses against

insurance firm Lloyds of London, has

called for more policyholders to join

the class-action lawsuit.

The focus of the class-action – which

was launched in July – is business

interruption insurance during the

COVID-19 pandemic.

Andrew Grech, partner at Gordon

Legal, commented, “We believe

that the insurers have wrongly

denied claims to thousands of

jewellery businesses and gemstone

merchants, and failed to support

them when they needed it most.

"Accessing the payout that we

believe they are entitled to will mean

the difference between survival and

failure of many businesses.”

Among those already represented

is Cody Opal Australia, the parent

company of the National Opal

Collection (NOC).

A claim against NOC's policy was

rejected in May 2020, with the

insurer asserting that the business’

losses – which Cody estimates total

more than $3 million – would need

to have occurred as a consequence

of COVID-19 cases within 20km

of the premises, rather than

“overarching factors resulting from

the COVID-19 pandemic as a whole”.

Grech told Jeweller, “Jewellers

and gemstone merchants were

hit very hard during the pandemic,

as these non-essential stores

were forced to close due to trading

restrictions in our major cities. They

have been severely let down by the

underwriters who provided them

with business interruption insurance

through Lloyds of London.”

The Insurance Council of Australia

(ICA) has appealed a separate NSW

test case to the High Court, and

insurers have “other avenues open

to delay further,” according to Grech.

“We think a class action will help

resolve the issue more quickly

than would otherwise be the

case,” he added.

The class action is being financed

by litigation funding firm Omni

Bridgeway, meaning that businesses

who join – known as ‘Group

members’ – are not required to pay

upfront or out-of-pocket costs.

“If the proceedings are successful,

as is expected, Omni Bridgeway is

entitled to recover a commission

which is paid out of the damages

awarded,” Grech explained.

Gordon Legal has suggested Lloyds

of London business interruption

policyholders start the claim process

and seek legal advice.

A ‘townhall’ webinar has been

scheduled for 4pm on Wednesday

18 August, accessible via the Gordon

Legal website, open to all jewellery

businesses.

02 9417 0177 | www.dgau.com.au


World-first Argyle pink diamond

trading platform launched

The Argyle Pink Diamond Exchange is designed as an 'end-to-end' sales channel,

exclusively for certified Argyle pink diamonds.

Users can browse for Argyle pinks

as well as sell diamonds using the

secure platform, with all stones

undergoing a rigorous authenticity

check prior to listing.

Steve Der Bedrossian, managing

director APDX, told Jeweller, “We

have had many enquiries from

members of the public looking

to sell as well as buy certified

Argyle pink diamonds, and they

wanted to do so through a trusted,

prestigious source.

“The APDX team has decades of

experience working with Argyle

pink diamonds, so we had the

expertise to develop this platform

and facilitate the process,” he

explained.

APDX is designed as an ‘endto-end’

sales channel, providing

secure transport of the diamonds,

full authentication, high-quality

photography and video, and online

marketing and promotion, as well

as delivery to the buyer.

“We want to assist sellers to

put their best foot forward,” Der

Bedrossian said.

“It’s similar to the process of

selling real estate – we ensure

the certified Argyle pink diamond

is promoted to potential buyers

in the best possible way, across

multiple online sales channels.”

Indeed, with the closure of the

Argyle Mine in November 2020,

speculation has abounded over

the ‘secondary market’ for its pink

diamonds – particularly for those

who have purchased them as an

investment, given prices have

appreciated by an estimated 500

per cent over the past 20 years.

“Our platform assists retailers to

educate their Argyle pink diamond

customers on the most common

question: exit strategy,” Der

Bedrossian explained.

“APDX gives the consumer

confidence that they have a

platform to sell their stone

in the future.”

Der Bedrossian says APDX is

a world-first for the exclusive

trading of certified Argyle pink

diamonds, and is available to both

local and international buyers and

sellers.

All stones submitted for sale

must be accompanied by Argyle

certificates to ensure complete

transparency and reliability.


When two diamond miners go to war:

Rio Tinto in legal stoush

Cut and polished diamonds from the Star-Orion South project, which is the subject

of a dispute between Rio Tinto and Star Diamond Corp. Image: Star Diamond Corp

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Rio Tinto continues to be embroiled

in a legal conflict with Star Diamond

Corp, the joint partner in its

Star-Orion South venture, based

in Canada.

Following Star Diamond filing

documents in a Canadian court

alleging Rio Tinto had engaged

in “bad faith predatory practices”

last year, it has now objected to Rio

Tinto's call for a budget meeting for

the Star-Orion South project.

According to Star Diamond, Rio

Tinto has set a proposed budget

for June 2021 to March 2022 of

$CA17.8 million ($AU19.03 million)

and will seek to add a further

$CA64.4 million ($AU68.8 million) of

expenses from 2019 to May 2021 to

that budget.

Star Diamond’s management

believes the proposed meeting is

invalid, contending that no joint

venture has been formed with Rio

Tinto Canada; this claim forms the

basis of a legal case currently

before the Court of Queen’s Bench

for Saskatchewan.

On 8 July 2021, Star Diamond

announced that it had written to

Dave S Andrews, head of exploration

growth at Rio Tinto, responding to

the company's attempt to convene

a meeting of the joint venture’s

management committee.

“Star Diamond is deeply

disappointed by Rio Tinto's latest

conduct. This appears to signal

a return by Rio Tin to its prior

predatory and coercive tactics

designed to misuse its economic

clout to misappropriate from Star

Diamond and its shareholders some

portion of the very significant value

that exists in the Star-Orion South

Diamond Project,” the letter states.

“Rio Tinto has already irresponsibly

run wildly over-budget.”

The company has also objected to

Rio Tinto exercising an option to

acquire a 60 per cent stake in the

Star-Orion site five years earlier

than anticipated.

In its own court documents filed

in April 2020, Rio Tinto denied

wrongdoing, adding that it “at all

times, conducted itself in good faith

and carried out the operations in a

good and workmanlike manner”.

It claimed that the withheld

sampling results “do not exist” and

that Star Diamond Corp had itself

improperly retained ownership of

mineral dispositions and surface

rights. Rio Tinto also stated that the

exploration costs – totalling $CA103

million ($AU113 million), incurred

between 2017 and 2019 – were not

previously disputed by Star Diamond

Corp and were “justified in the

context of the project”.

A preliminary economic assessment

of the site estimated 66 million

carats could be recovered over

34-year period, generating $CAD3.3

billion ($AU3.6 billion) in revenue.

p +61 (0)8 8221 5580

sales@timesupply.com.au

exclusive distributor AU & NZ


Tiffany & Co. settles nearly

decade-long Costco lawsuit

TOK

- Est. 1974 -

Custom-made fine jewellery

Proudly 100% Australian owned &

operated family business

Following an eight-year legal battle, Tiffany & Co. has reached a confidential

settlement with Costco over 'counterfeit' engagement rings.

Months after a $US21 million ($AU29

million) verdict against Costco was

overturned, Tiffany & Co. has settled

its eight-year lawsuit with the discount

retail chain.

The terms of the settlement have

not been disclosed, however Reuters

quotes David Bernstein, a legal

representative for Costco, as saying

the two companies “amicably resolved

their dispute”.

Notably, Reuters also states that

Tiffany & Co. – which was acquired

by French luxury conglomerate Moët

Hennessy Louis Vuitton (LVMH) in

January – recently attained new legal

representation.

Media reports of a potential out-ofcourt

settlement had been circulating

since March, when Tiffany & Co. last

filed a joint-status report in which it

requested a jury trial.

The international jewellery company

first filed suit in early 2013 over a

collection of six-prong diamond

engagement rings sold by Costco with

the descriptor “Tiffany” on the tags

and in-store signage.

An estimated 3,349 customers

purchased the Costco rings, netting

Costco $US3.7 million in profits.

A 1-carat platinum solitaire ring with

VS clarity was listed at $US6,399.99

– a similar ring on the Tiffany & Co.

website retails for $US14,000.

Tiffany & Co. argued that the rings

constituted trademark infringement

and counterfeiting, as it was possible

customers were misled to believe

that the rings were manufactured by

Tiffany & Co.

It also contended that Costco had

instructed its jewellery suppliers

to copy Tiffany & Co. engagement

ring designs.

Meanwhile, Costco claimed that the

descriptor “Tiffany” referred to the

six-prong setting of the rings and that

“Tiffany setting” could be considered a

generic term in the jewellery industry.

US district judge Laura Taylor Swain

awarded TIffany & Co. $US19.35

million ($AU24.3 million) in

compensatory and punitive

damages in 2017.

However, Costco appealed the

decision, stating, "Tiffany & Co. did

not claim in the lawsuit that it lost

a single sale to Costco as a result

of any sign. This was not a case

about counterfeiting in the common

understanding of that word – Costco

was not selling imitation Tiffany

& Co. rings."

Its claim was upheld by the US Court

of Appeals for the Second Circuit,

which overturned the lower court’s

judgment in Tiffany’s favour in

August 2020.

Following the settlement, Tiffany

& Co. filed for a dismissal with

prejudice, meaning it cannot bring

the lawsuit again.

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New chairman for Israel diamond

industry organisation

Arnon Juwal, a partner at diamond manufacturing firm S Juwal & Co., has been elected

chairman of the Israel Diamond Institute, following the resignation of Yoram Dvash.

DURAFLEX

Proudly distributed by

The Israel Diamond Institute (IDI)

has named Arnon Juwal as its new

chairman following the resignation

of Yoram Dvash earlier this month.

Founded in 1967, IDI is a nonprofit

organisation that represents

the Israeli diamond industry and

promotes it through marketing,

public relations, and trade events.

It also operates a portal dedicated

to the industry, a trading website

and an information centre.

New chairman Juwal is a secondgeneration

diamantaire and

partner in diamond manufacturing

firm S Juwal & Co.

He is a member of the Israel

Diamond Exchange (IDE)'s board

and chairs its insurance and

taxation committee.

Upon his election, Juwal said,

“It is a great honour to serve as

chairman of the Israel Diamond

Institute, as well as a major

responsibility.

"We are emerging from a very

difficult time, and although the

Israeli diamond industry has

rebounded, there are still many

issues that we must deal with.

"IDI is responsible for several

functions that are essential to the

success of the Israeli diamond

industry. He added, “I hope that

my expertise as a diamantaire will

enable me to contribute to the

success of IDI and I look forward

to leading the institute in these

crucial times.”

The chairman position usually

carries a three-year term; Dvash

was elected in November 2020,

replacing Boaz Moldawsky,

following widespread industry

encouragement.

No specific reason for his

resignation has been made public.

Dvash is also president of the

World Federation of Diamond

Bourses (WFDB) and previously

resigned the presidency of the IDE

in order to focus on his WFDB role.

In February 2021, Moldawsky

was elected president of the IDE,

replacing Dvash.

In a statement, Moldawsky said,

"The members of the Diamond

Exchange have chosen an

experienced and responsible

management. It is an honour

and privilege for me to lead the

exchange in the coming years, and

especially during such a complex

and challenging period for the

industry."

02 9417 0177 | www.dgau.com.au


LVMH Watches & Jewellery division doubles profit in first half of 2021

LVMH’s overall results saw revenue increase from

€18.4 billion ($AU29.6 billion) in the first half of 2020

to €28.7 billion ($AU46.12 billion) in 2021.

This was largely attributed to the robust US and

Asian markets and a “gradual recovery” in Europe,

as well as outstanding performance in Fashion

& Leather Goods, which is consistently its topperforming

division.

The excellent results follow the successful integration of Tiffany & Co. into the LVMH portfolio. Image: Tiffany & Co.

'Tiffany T1' 2021 campaign.

French luxury conglomerate Moët Hennessy

Louis Vuitton has recorded bumper results for

the first half of 2021, with its Watches & Jewellery

division significantly boosted by the acquisition of

Tiffany & Co.

After sustaining a loss of €17 million ($AU27.3

million) during the first six months of 2020 due to the

COVID-19 pandemic, the division – which includes

Bulgari, Chaumet, Fred, TAG Heuer, Hublot, and

Zenith in addition to Tiffany & Co. – recorded a profit

of €794 million ($AU1.275 billion) in the first half

of 2021. This represents a 122 per cent increase

compared with the first half of 2019.

LVMH acquired US-based jeweller Tiffany in January

2021 for a record $US15.8 billion, following a

protracted negotiation that lasted more than a year

and almost culminated in a court battle.

Excluding Tiffany & Co., the Watches & Jewellery

division’s profit increased 27 per cent when

compared with 2019.

In a statement, LVMH management noted

the successful launch of Tiffany’s first men’s

engagement ring setting, as well as solid results

from Italian jewellery house Bulgari and increased

marketing efforts from TAG Heuer and Hublot.

Bernard Arnault, chairman and CEO of LVMH,

said, “LVMH has enjoyed an excellent half-year

and is reaping the benefits of having continued

to innovate and invest in its businesses throughout

the pandemic despite being in the midst of a

global crisis.

“The creativity, the high-quality and enduring nature

of our products and the sense of responsibility

that drives us, have been critical in enabling us to

successfully withstand the effects of the pandemic;

they will remain firmly embedded in all our Maisons,

thereby ensuring their continued desirability,”

Arnault added.

He said LVMH was “in an excellent position to

continue to grow and further strengthen our lead in

the global luxury market in 2021” as the international

recovery from the COVID-19 pandemic continues.


Large pink diamond found in

Botswana; Cullinan blue diamond sold

The 62.70-carat 'Boitumelo' fancy pink diamond, unearthed at the Karowe Mine in

Botswana. Image credit: Lucara

Bloom

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This collection is truly a wonder: every piece is a work

of art, a floral-inspired design with a breathtaking,

gorgeous arrangement of Argyle pink diamonds.

The blend of pink, white and gold tones is simply

phenomenal. Reminiscent of Australian pink magnolias,

this collection captures the moment when a flower

blossoms in real time for it to be preserved for eternity.

PinkKimberley.com.au

Lucara Diamond Company (Lucara)

has announced the recovery of a

62.70-carat fancy pink diamond

at its Karowe Diamond Mine

in Botswana – the largest pink

diamond ever unearthed in

Botswana and one of the largest

rough pinks on record.

The Type IIa stone was unearthed

from the mine’s South Lobe and has

been named Boitumelo, which means

“joy” in the Setswana language.

Several other large pink diamonds

were recovered from Karowe

during the same production period

– a 22.21 carat, 11.17 carat, and

5.05-carat stone. Worldwide, it is

extremely rare to find pink diamonds

above one carat.

In June, Lucara announced the

recovery of a white diamond

weighing more than 1,000 carats

from Karowe – one of five stones of

more than 300 carats and 17 greater

than 100 carats unearthed over the

life of the mine.

The company recently announced

plans for a five-year, $US514 million

expansion project at Karowe, with

Eira Thomas, CEO Lucara, saying,

“Lucara is delighted to announce

another historic diamond with

the recovery of the Boitumelo,

and very pleased to demonstrate

the continued potential for large,

coloured diamonds from the South

Lobe production.

“These remarkable pink diamonds

join a collection of significant

diamond recoveries in 2021… which

forms a key economic driver for

the proposed underground mine at

Karowe.”

Meanwhile, De Beers Group and

diamond manufacturing firm

Diacore have announced the jointpurchase

of a 39.34-carat fancy blue

stone, recovered from South Africa’s

Cullinan Mine.

The diamond was mined by Cullinan

operator Petra Diamonds and

sold for $US40.17 million ($AU54

million), split equally between the

two buyers.

Paul Rowley, executive vice-president

– diamond trading, De Beers Group,

said, “It is a privilege to have the

opportunity to work with such a

miracle of nature and a delight to

see the legendary Cullinan deposit

producing yet another breathtakingly

beautiful gemstone.

“It’s great to be working again with

Diacore on this diamond, given their

outstanding history of releasing the

true beauty of exceptional finds such

as this.”

Nir Livnat, chairman, Diacore,

added, “We’re excited and humbled

to have the opportunity of designing

and shaping one of the most special

and rare blue diamonds of such size

and colour."

De Beers Group and Diacore

previously purchased five blue

Cullinan diamonds in November

2020.

E pink@samsgroup.com.au W samsgroup.com.au P 02 9290 2199


De Beers profits rebound amid COVID recovery

rough diamond demand as the midstream pulled

through stocks in response to the recovery in

consumer demand,” according to the report.

“The closing price index was 14 per cent above the

opening index over the first six months of 2021,

reflecting positive consumer demand for diamond

jewellery as well as tightness in inventories across

the diamond value chain,” it added.

Following a challenging 2020, a robust recovery in the

diamond market has put De Beers back on track.

The latest financial reports from De Beers

indicate the company – the world’s second-largest

diamond producer by volume – has returned to

the black.

Revenue increased to $US2.9 billion in the first

six months of 2021, compared with $US1.22

billion during the same period in 2020 due to the

COVID-19 pandemic.

Rough sales increased from 8.55 million carats

to 19.1 million carats, while production also

increased from 11.3 million carats to 15.4

million carats; De Beers has indicated its annual

production target for 2021 is 32–33 million carats.

The promising results were “driven by robust

Consumer demand has been largely driven by the

recovery in the US market, which has benefited

from relaxed restrictions in the wake of mass

COVID-19 vaccinations.

Globally, international travel restrictions have

also led to increased consumer spending on

luxury goods.

Meanwhile, an outbreak in India in April and May

led to shortages, which restricted supply and

boosted polished prices.

De Beers recorded provisional sales of $US510

million for its sixth ‘Cycle’ of the year, up from

$US477 million in the previous Cycle and $US116

million for the same period in 2020.

In February 2021, the company reported an

underlying loss of $US102 million for the 2020

financial year.

Sapphire 'cluster', potentially valued at

$100 million, found in Sri Lanka

a well on a property in Ratnapura – a region

known for its gemstones – more than a year ago,

and took months to fully clean and analyse.

Coveted by collectors, star sapphires display

the optical phenomenon known as asterism, in

which their inclusions reflect light in a specific

way that creates a star-like shape with four, six,

or 12 'points'. The number of points influences

the value of the gemstone.

The Serendipity Sapphire was unearthed in Ratnapura

last year while workmen dug a well. Image: BBC

The world's largest star sapphire 'cluster' has been

found in the backyard of a Sri Lankan gemstone

trader, according to multiple media reports.

The specimen reportedly weighs 510kg – 2.5

million carats – with an estimated value of up to

$US100 million ($AU136 million), and has been

named the 'Serendipity Sapphire'.

It was unearthed by workmen who were digging

Speaking to the BBC, gemmologist Dr Gamini

Zoysa said, "I have never seen such a large

specimen before. This was probably formed

around 400 million years ago."

While the specimen has not been independently

authenticated by international experts, Thilak

Weerasinghe, the Chairman of the National Gem

and Jewellery Authority of Sri Lanka, said, "It

is a special star sapphire specimen, probably

the biggest in the world. Given the size and its

value, we think it will interest private collectors

or museums."


Mining at long-dormant Aussie mine to begin 'in September'

The Ellendale site in Western Australia is one of just

two remaining viable diamond mines in Australia, and

is known for producing large volumes of fancy yellow

stones. Image: India Bore Diamond Holdings

India Bore Diamond Holdings (IBDH), one of

two Australian companies currently operating

at the Ellendale site in Western Australia –

which has been dormant since 2015 – has

indicated it could begin small-scale mining

operations as early as September 2021.

The company was granted additional mining

leases by the West Australian government

in July and has also recently completed a

Heritage Impact Assessment survey with

traditional owners, paving the way for

authorities to approve mining operations to

commence.

Peter McNally, managing director IBDH, told the

ABC, "We've got a fairly extensive gravel channel

there to mine and in a few weeks' time we

should have approval to commence commercial

mining where those good diamonds are.

"I'm fairly confident that it will be approved, and

we hope to be mining in September."

McNally added, "They're not as rare as the

pinks, the reds or the blues [but] the yellow

diamonds are probably still the most popular

of the coloured diamonds. We will look to learn

from the experience that Argyle had and how

they taught the world to market diamonds."

The other mining company operating at

Ellendale, Perth-based Burgundy Diamond

Mines (BDM), has similar plans.

Peter Ravenscroft, managing director BDM,

has said the company hopes to follow the

Argyle "template": "We will be looking at

rebranding them, potentially even changing the

name of the Ellendale diamonds and taking

them to market ourselves," he told the ABC.

BDM is currently in the process of building a

bulk-sampling plant, with production estimated

to begin by the fourth quarter of 2022.

Ellendale once supplied approximately 50 per

cent of the world's yellow diamonds; however,

BDM says its production will be "smaller and

more mobile".

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Michael Hill Jewellers rash of

robberies: seven in 12 months

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Burglars smashed the window of the Michael Hill store in Pukekohe in an

overnight raid in July. Image credit: South Magazine/Facebook

New Zealand police are investigating

another burglary at a Michael Hill

jewellery store, taking to seven

the number of heists targeting the

business over the past 12 months.

The most recent burglary took place

on Sunday 18 July at Pukekohe in

south Auckland.

According to the New Zealand Herald,

a group of offenders forced their way

into the store at around 12.30am.

Acting Detective Senior Sergeant

Michele Gillespie said a “quantity

of jewellery” was stolen, with the

burglars fleeing the area afterwards.

An employee said she received a

phone call from security shortly

after the incident; a team member

met with police later that morning.

The latest incident follows a robbery

two weeks ago – the sixth in the

past year – when two men robbed

the Michael Hill store at Waitakere’s

West City Mall on Saturday 3 July.

According to media reports at

the time, the thieves made off

with pieces valued at $NZ100,000

($AU94,683), including the store’s

stock of larger chains and watches,

some of which were valued at

$NZ18,000 to $NZ25,000.

A Michael Hill employee said, “They

knew what they were getting.”

In May, two off-duty police officers

and local retailers stepped in to

foil the robbery of a Wellington

jewellery store.

As previously reported by Jeweller,

Deputy Commissioner Tania Kura

and her partner, retired Detective

Inspector David Archibald, noticed a

commotion inside the Michael Hill

store in the Lambton Quay area while

on a morning walk.

Archibald told New Zealand news

website Stuff.co.nz, “I ran into

the store and saw a masked and

gloved man grappling with the store

manager. I managed to get quite a

good grab on him. He was pretty

strong but from experience, you know,

[I] never let go.”

Kura phoned police and several staff

from nearby stores rushed to provide

assistance.

“I saw someone pulling his belt off

and another had the price tag still on

it,” Archibald recalled.

“A staff member had brought the

belt from their stock to help tie him

up, which was smart thinking.”

On-duty officers soon arrived at the

scene and arrested the would-be

robber, recovering jewellery valued

at $NZ28,000 ($AU26,049).

Added Kura, “Police, with the help

of some brave members of the

public, have taken a risk-taking thief

off the street.”

The Pukekohe robbery is one of

a spate of Michael Hill Jewellers

targeted in the Auckland region

including the Queen Street store

which was subjected to an overnight

smash-and-grab raid on Friday

23 April, and the Westfield Albany

store that was burgled on Monday

26 April, with a “large quantity” of

jewellery stolen.

Several people – including teenagers

– have since been charged in relation

to those crimes..

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News In Brief

Swatch returns to profit,

trade shows

4 Swatch Group has reported a strong

recovery in the first six months of 2021,

with sales increasing more than 50 per

cent to CHF3.39 billion ($AU5.1 billion) and

operating profits rising to CHF402 million,

compared with an operating loss of CHF

-327 million in the previous year. Meanwhile

executives from Longines, RADO, Tissot

and Hamilton will be present at the Couture

trade fair in Las Vegas later this month.

New diamond tracing

partnership

4 In a bid to improve diamond tracing,

Gem Certification & Assurance Lab

(GCAL) has announced it will share

data – including certification information

and photos – with blockchain platform

Everledger. Angelo Palmieri, COO GCAL,

said, "It will provide consumers with

greater assurance... and retail jewellers

with more substantial information about

the diamond to help close more sales."

New luxury

conglomerate?

4 The family that controls Ferrari is

rumoured to have approached Italian

fashion brand Giorgio Armani with a

view to creating a new European luxury

conglomerate, Reuters and Business

of Fashion report. The holding company

for the Agnelli family has recently

made significant investments in French

accessories brand Christian Louboutin

and Chinese luxury group Shang Xia.

Fancy colour diamond

prices inch higher

4Blue diamond prices have outpaced

pinks in the latest Fancy Color Diamond

Index report, published by the Fancy

Color Research Foundation (FCRF) and

based on trade data from New York,

Tel Aviv, and Hong Kong. While pink

diamonds experienced an overall rise

of 0.3 per cent over the quarter, blue

diamond prices increased 0.4 per cent.

Yellow diamond prices remained stable,

increasing 0.1 per cent.

Everything changes in a COVID world: India

Jewellery Show moves cities

This year's India International Jewellery Show will

take place outside Mumbai for the first time.

One of the world’s largest jewellery trade fairs,

the India International Jewellery Show (IIJS),

is being relocated from Mumbai to Bengaluru

(formerly Bangalore).

Organised by India’s Gem & Jewellery Export

Promotion Council (GJEPC), IIJS Premiere 2021

will take place between 15–19 September this

year at Bangalore International Exhibition Centre

(BEIC), rather than the traditional Bombay

Exhibition Centre.

It is the first time the trade fair will take place

outside of Mumbai and will be India’s first

‘physical’ show since the COVID-19 pandemic

began in early 2020.

In its heyday, prior to the pandemic, IIJS boasted

more than 1,300 exhibitors and 35,000–40,000

visitors, of which more than 1,000 were

international buyers.

The BIEC has five exhibition halls encompassing

77,220 square metres of covered exhibition space

and parking for approximately 6,000 vehicles.

Shailesh Sangani, exhibitions convenor at the

GJEPC, said that one of the considerations in

moving the show was the restrictions of the

Mumbai location.

“We have finalised Bangalore as our destination

to host IIJS Premiere this year, owing to the

venue constraints in Mumbai. The Karnataka

[state] government was quick to offer all the

necessary approvals to organise the show,”

Sangani explained.

He added, “Shifting the venue has not affected

the participants' enthusiasm, as evident from the

applications received from 1,275 companies for

2,444 stalls. As always, the security of this show

will be handled by Central Industrial Security

Force, which has already completed the initial

[reconnaissance] visit of the location.”

Karnataka is the largest state in southwest

India with Arabian Sea coastlines. The capital,

Bengaluru (formerly Bangalore), is a high-tech

hub known for its shopping and nightlife.

Colin Shah, chairman GJEPC, said, “We are

delighted to announce the 37th edition of IIJS

Premiere 2021. Ensuring that all [COVID-19]

protocols are followed will be our top priority.

We are looking forward to the show and hoping

to meet the sourcing needs of buyers for the

upcoming festive season.

“An event of this magnitude needs a great venue,

so we are glad that BIEC stepped up to help us

organise it. I would like to express my gratitude

to the Central and Karnataka State government

for offering all the support in organising the first

physical show after the lockdown,” Shah added.

Coinciding with the IIJS announcement, the

GJEPC has launched a new ‘brand identity’,

comprising a redesigned logo and new mission

statement to “position India as a unique

destination for gems and jewellery”.

The GJEPC was established in 1966 by the

Ministry of Commerce and Industry with aim to

promote the Indian gem and jewellery industry

and its products.

The new logo, designed by ANC, features a gold

and silver circular symbol.

A media statement explained that the new logo

represents India’s ‘centrality’ to the international

gemstone and jewellery industry, as well as the

GJEPC’s authority and importance as an apex

body: “The concentric circles represent a

powerful force that radiates outwards from India,

reaching out to the world. At another level, the

symbol strongly connects to the category: gems

and jewellery. The lines represent the facets of

a cut gem.”

Shah called the new logo a “nonverbal strategy

that speaks volumes of the Council’s evolution.”

And finally, on 20 July the winners of the 2021

The Artisan Awards, India’s premier jewellery

design competition, were announced at the

Hotel Four Seasons in Mumbai. Both Indian and

international craftsmen and women participated

in the competition to showcase excellence and

innovation in jewellery design.

The theme for the 2021 awards was ‘Reinventing

Vintage’ and included three jewellery eras

from diverse cultures “to create timeless yet

modern silhouettes”. Indian heritage was

celebrated through the sub-theme Temple

Jewellery; Japanesque was a recognition of Asian

inspiration; and Victorian design referenced the

colonial past.

A total of 586 entries were received including from

Japan, USA, Taiwan, Russia, Egypt, Abu Dhabi,

and Australia.

Eleven awards were announced as there was a tie

in two of the three sub-categories.

32 | August 2021


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10 Years Ago

Time Machine: August 2011

A snapshot of the industry events making headlines this time 10 years ago in Jeweller.

Historic Headlines

4 Jewellers should invest in ‘pretty’ websites

4 Ole Lynggaard hires new Australia manager

4 New distributor for Police

4 US jewellery brand makes debut in Aus

4 Conscientious jewellery consumers rising

Sams Watchmaker Jeweller

undergoes re-branding

Family-operated Australian distributor Sams

Watchmaker Jeweller has rebranded itself as

SAMS Group Australia and expanded its offering

by taking on the distribution of fashion jewellery

brand Tresor Paris and RM Williams’ watches.

The company is predominantly known for its

Classique watch brand, which founder Sam Der

Bedrossian designed and started distributing

throughout Australia – a few years after he

established the company in 1967.

From its initial beginnings as a watch assembler,

Sams Watchmaker Jeweller developed into a

watch wholesaler and is now looking to expand

into jewellery. His son Steve Der Bedrossian,

who is now manager of the business, said

the repositioning is vital to keep up with the

changing needs of retailers.

Australia’s first diamond

processing plant?

Ausdex Diamonds Pty Ltd has appointed

Infinite Capital to secure investors for a new

venture to “become Australia’s first diamond

manufacturer”.

The company had previously advertised online

seeking $US8 million ($AU7.7 million) in venture

capital funding.

Ausdex Diamonds should not be confused with

a similarly named business, Ausdex Australian

Diamond Exchange that was closed last

December after its owner, Francine Gumina,

declared bankruptcy.

Although Gumina is the sister of Ausdex Diamonds

director Sandro Catalini, he advises there was no

connection between his company or the website

Ausdexdiamonds.com.au, and the similarly named

but now defunct Ausdiamondex.com.au.

August 2011

ON THE COVER Tuskc

Editors’ Desk

4Survival in a Branded World : “Branded

product is great in good times and

when there are lots of ‘free’ customers

courtesy of the brand, but what about

when sales slow down or customers

aren’t returning to your store?

Well, the first thing you need to do is

know who this new customer is – after

all, you can’t have a relationship with

someone you don’t know. It’s just like the

rules of dating – you have to be able to

contact the date in order to ‘court’!”

Soapbox

4A Fast Track to Nowhere: “In an age

where every Australian knows that

if they don’t buy Product X today then

it’ll be on sale in three weeks’ time,

the whole retail system has been

reduced to the lowest common

denominator: price.

“Consumers are squeezing the

retailers, and the retailers are

squeezing the wholesalers even

harder. What I would like to know is

where does the Australian wholesaler

go from here?”

– Robin Sobel, managing director,

Protea Diamonds

STILL RELEVANT 10 YEARS ON

When The Going Gets Tough:

When sales are dropping and customers

are bargain-hunting for better deals,

the instinctive response is to cut prices

and offer dramatic discounts. While this

might appear to be a good short-term

solution, such a quick fix approach

can also result in price wars, tarnished

customer relationships and a

diminished reputation.

Pandora revises 2011 targets

Pandora has updated its financial

expectations for 2011, following a sharp

decline in worldwide revenue according

to a recent company announcement.

At the same time, chief executive officer

Mikkel Vendelin Olesen has resigned from

Pandora, leaving board member Marcello

Bottoli as interim CEO, while the company

searches for a replacement.

Following the significant decline in revenue

this year – attributed to substantial price

increases and poor marketing execution – the

company has downgraded its 2011 guidance

for revenue and EBITDA margins, with revised

expectations to be at the 2010 levels.

Another snag for NZ

industry unification

Talks between New Zealand’s major industry

associations over the formation of a peak

industry body have hit yet another stumbling

block after Jewellers & Watchmakers New

Zealand (JWNZ) cancelled the latest meeting

at short notice.

The meeting was scheduled for Wednesday 15

July at the office of the New Zealand Retailers

Association in Auckland. Representatives from

the Jewellery Manufacturers Federation were

also scheduled to attend.

The JWNZ’s Steve Crout said he had “simply

deferred the meeting until after our trade

fair”, but he did not respond to questions as

to why JWNZ could not meet before the fair,

which is not for another month.

READ ALL HEADLINES IN FULL ON

JEWELLERMAGAZINE.COM

34 | August 2021


PETER W

BECKAUSTRLAIAN

MADE

VISIT US AT THE INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY & WATCH FAIR


INSIDE

My Store

Colette

CALIFORNIA, USA with Colette Steckel, Founder and designer • SPACE COMPLETED 2021

4Who is the target market and how did they

influence the store design?

The contemporary fine jewellery customer spans

a wide range. I wanted to create a store that

welcomed not only more seasoned collectors, but

also younger clientele who are starting to learn

about fine jewellery and expressing interest in

investing in the category.

The location in Brentwood, Los Angeles also

plays a huge role – it’s a great community of local

businesses with people out and about all day. I’m

so thrilled to be part of that mix.

4With the relationship between store

ambience and consumer purchasing in mind,

which features in the store encourage sales?

I’ve always found the ambiance of the store really

important to a customer’s experience, ultimately

helping to influence a purchase.

When designing the new location, I thought about

my favourite in-store experiences and set out

to create an environment that is welcoming and

luxurious at once.

Shopping for fine jewellery can often be

intimidating, and that’s the opposite of how

I want our customers or passers-by to feel when

they see the store.

Incorporating the lifestyle aspect with a curation

of home goods and other items from Mexico

City and Paris – representing my own heritage

– ‘diffuses’ the jewellery a bit and gives the

store a more relaxed feel. The extended product

offering also gives visitors the opportunity to find

something at a range of price points.

They may come in to see the jewellery, but they

can also walk out with a backgammon set!

4What is the store design’s ‘wow factor’?

The centrepiece is a beautiful velvet-like marble

that is featured throughout the store. It has a

gorgeous mix of lavender, pale pink and blues that

brings the whole space together.

That, coupled with our herringbone floors

and the gorgeous light flowing in, makes the

space feel very reminiscent of a contemporary

Parisian apartment.

36 | August 2021


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INSIDE

Now & Then

Offe Jewellers

Celebrating 96 Years • MURRAY BRIDGE, MOUNT BARKER AND BERRI, SA • A moment with Jennifer Burch, director

MILESTONES

L to R: Desmond and Deborah Stapleton outside the renamed Offe’s Hourglass Jewellers; a devastating fire

destroyed the historic Murray Bridge store in 2002.

After World War I, William “Bill” Offe

returned to South Australia from France,

only to discover his family farm could no

longer support him or his siblings.

So, Bill entered a watchmaking

apprenticeship with Keightly Jewellers

in Angaston, in the Barossa Valley.

Following his apprenticeship, Bill opened a

business in the town of Renmark and then

later expanded to Berri; however, times

became tough as one of the region’s biggest

employers, the Hume Pipe Company, closed.

Undeterred, Bill and his wife Lilian decided

to move ‘down river’ to the growing town of

Murray Bridge, where they opened a small

store, Offe Jewellers, in the newly complete

Ruges Arcade.

Over time, Bill expanded the store into

china and giftware – but there were more

challenges on the horizon.

The years of World War II were difficult

for many jewellery and watchmaking

businesses throughout Australia.

Importing goods became almost impossible,

alarm clocks and watches were sold on

a priority basis to essential services, and

gold and jewellery were strictly rationed

as luxuries.

Still, Offe Jewellers survived, and a

glassware section was added; Bill’s son

Ian – a qualified gemmologist – then joined

the business.

After Bill passed away in the 1960s, Ian took

over and worked alongside his mother to

keep Offe Jewellers thriving. They celebrated

the store’s 50th anniversary in 1975 with

extensive renovations to the jewellery

section, as well as modernised entrances

coinciding with wider alterations to the

Ruges Arcade building.

In the early 1990s, the Offes sold the

business to jewellery industry veteran

Desmond “Des” Stapleton and his wife

Deborah, who rebranded the store as Offe’s

Hourglass Jewellers.

Des had started in the industry in 1962

as a messenger boy for a jewellery supplier

and went on to establish his own business

importing jewellery from Europe. The

decision to move into retail was motivated by

his desire to reduce his travel commitments

and spend more time with his family.

A new era of expansion took place when

Des decided to open a second location; he

approached Mt Barker Jewellers owner and

manufacturing jeweller Michael Vivian about

a partnership, and together they opened

a new, larger store named Hourglass

Jewellers Mt Barker.

Having worked to re-establish the wholesale

part of the family business while studying at

university, I joined Offe Jewellers full-time in

the early 2000s after completing my degree.

While my focus was on wholesale and

buying, my brother Damien came in to

support our father as retail manager of

the Murray Bridge store. My other brother

Michael also joined the business supporting

me within the wholesale arm.

One of the toughest times came in 2002,

when a devastating fire destroyed the Murray

Bridge store – forcing the historic building to

be demolished. It took two years to rebuild,

throughout which Offe Hourglass Jewellers

operated from a temporary location.

1925

William “Bill” Offe and wife

Lilian move to Murray

Bridge and open Offe

Jewellers, later adding

china, giftware, and

glassware sections

1953

Bill and Lilian’s son Ian,

a gemmologist, joins

the business

1975

Offe Jewellers celebrates

its 50th anniversary with

extensive renovations

1992

Desmond “Des” Stapleton

and wife Deborah purchase

the business from the

Offes and rename it Offe’s

Hourglass Jewellers

1993

Michael Vivian, jeweller

and owner of Mt Barker

Jewellers, partners with

Des to open a large new

Hourglass Jewellers store

in Mount Barker

1995

The Murray Bridge store

marks its 70th year with

another renovation , adding

a full-time manufacturing

jeweller and state-of-theart

workshop

2000

Des and Deborah’s

daughter Jennifer joins

the business, followed

by brothers Damien

and Michael

2002

The Murray Bridge store

is destroyed in a

devastating fire;

rebuilding takes two years

2007

Michael’s daughter Ellie

begins working at the

Mount Barker location

2008

Des is approached by

Riverland Central Plaza

shopping centre to open

a store in Berri; Damien

oversees the new location

2018

Des and Deborah pass on

the business to Damien,

Jennifer and Michael, and

all three stores revert to

the original business name

Offe Jewellers

Above: The original Offe Jewellers in Murray Bridge

moved to its present location in 2018.

Thankfully, we were able to return to our

corner site once the rebuild was complete,

and a stunning, modern new store rose

from the ashes.

In the following years, Michael Vivian’s

daughter Ellie joined him at the Mount

Barker store, bringing another generation

into the business. We also joined the

Leading Edge Group Jewellers buying

group, which led to our being approached

to open a third store in Berri.

This was particularly poignant, as Bill

Offe’s first business had a store in Berri.

Damien re-located there to oversee the

new store.

After taking over the business from our

parents, we rebranded back to our original

name – Offe Jewellers – in 2018 and the

original Murray Bridge store moved to

24 Bridge Street with a new workshop.

The Mount Barker and Berri stores

have also recently undergone

refurbishments to create beautiful,

contemporary retail spaces.

The future of Offe Jewellers will focus on

manufacturing and repairs, as well as

offering a broad range of fine and branded

jewellery and watches. We have also

placed great emphasis on e-commerce,

allowing our customers to browse both

online and in-store.

With our experienced family team, we look

to continue the Offe Jewellers legacy for

many years to come.

Read the full length interview

on Jewellermagazine.com

38 | August 2021


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Behind every gemstone,

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Gemmologist and Diamond Technologist

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ADELAIDE BRISBANE HOBART MELBOURNE PERTH SYDNEY

Passionately educating the industry, gem enthusiasts

and consumers about gemstones


REVIEW

Gems

Diaspore: Colour and light

L to R: Lance Fischer earrings; Kat Florence necklace; Erica Courtney ring

Below: Jack Kelége ring; Provenance Gems ring

Diaspore derives its name from the Greek

word diaspora – meaning ‘to scatter’. The

prized colour-change varieties may be better

known as Csarite or, formerly, Zultanite.

Gem-quality diaspore is best known for

its colour change, an optical effect that

occurs when different types of lighting

interact with the gemstone.

In daylight, this stone is usually a

greenish colour, that changes to a pinkish

brown or even red in incandescent light.

Trace elements of titanium, vanadium,

iron and chromium within the structure

are responsible for this effect.

It is this variety of diaspore, which many

may know by the name of Zultanite,

that consumers encounter on cruise

ships and other tourist markets around

the world. This material is not readily

available as the market is controlled by

two producers.

Aside from colour change, diaspore may

also be pink, yellowish, bluish, greenish

brown, white, or colourless.

The hue of diaspore tends to vary across

deposits around the world – green and

purple from Norway, reddish pink from

South Africa and chromium-rich green

from Russia.

A recently discovered deposit in Pakistan

produces a particularly attractive purplish

pink that is growing in popularity. The

colour change variety is exclusive to the

Anatolian Mountains of Turkey.

With a brilliant lustre and very high

dispersion, this gemstone breaks up light

into the seven spectral colours better than

diamond. Such impressive fire contributes

to the appeal of a well-cut diaspore.

Crystallising in the orthorhombic

system, diaspore is strongly trichroic.

This means three different colours are

prominent when viewing the specimen

at different angles – usually a violet-blue,

red, and pale green – an effect distinct

from colour change.

This, coupled with the colour change

phenomenon and the rarity of transparent

gem-quality diaspore, are three main

factors that determine its value.

Another feature affecting the value is

a rather rare cat’s eye chatoyancy – a

captivating single-ray gleam of light

reflected off the inclusions within, and

best shown when cut en cabochon.

The hardness of diaspore sits at 6.5-7 on

Mohs’ scale. Being on the slightly softer

side and featuring two planes of cleavage

– one perfect and one distinct – it is

best suited to less exposed jewellery not

intended to be worn every day.

Knocking this gemstone in just the right

spot will split it in two!

Navigating this cleavage when cutting

diaspore can be very tricky. Large gemquality

specimens are very rare, partly

due to the amount of material lost in the

fashioning process.

When working with this gemstone, it

is important to be aware and cautious

Diaspore

From the Greek

diaspora, meaning

“to scatter”

Colour: Pink, yellowish,

bluish, greenish brown,

white, colourless,

colour-change

Found in: Norway, South

Africa, Russia, Turkey,

Hungary, USA

Mohs Hardness: 6.5–7

Class: Oxide mineral

Lustre: Adamantine,

vitreous

Formula: AlO(OH)

of its brittle nature. Warm soapy water

is recommended in place of ultrasonic

cleaning.

Synthetic diaspore is not available –

potentially a result of a lack of substantial

demand to drive commercially viable

synthesis. Gemstones labelled as

synthetic diaspore are likely to be another

synthetic material with a colour-change

effect imitating Zultanite.

In the world of gemstones, imitation

gems are often created and marketed

to resemble more expensive or rarer

crystals.

In the case of diaspore, colour change

glass ‘doped’ with rare earth elements is

an example of an imitation.

However, is a relatively easy stone for

the trained gemmologist to identify and

separate from other material.

Though not as pronounced as alexandrite,

the colour change phenomenon is highly

desired. This characteristic, combined

with an attractive high dispersion and the

rarity of diaspore, make it admired and

collected by many.

Mikaelah Egan FGAA Dip DT

began her career in the indsutry at

Diamonds of Distinction in 2015. She now

balances her role as a gemmologist at

Vault Valuations in Brisbane with studying

geology at the University of Queensland.

Visit instagram.com/mikaelah.egan

August 2021 | 41


GEMSTONE FEATURE

Lapidary Design

COLOURED

GEMSTONES

JUSTIN K PRIM explores the fascinating variety

of coloured gemstone cuts and how each one

enhances the rough crystal to its full potential.


GEMSTONE FEATURE | Lapidary Design

by JUSTIN K PRIM

Once upon a time, buyers of coloured stones

were solely focused on colour and size,

but in the 21st Century, gemstone and

jewellery customers are becoming more aware

of the effect of the cut on coloured gemstones.

Gemstone grading laboratories started issuing cut grades

on diamonds in 2006 – which caused the entire diamond

industry to become more conscious of the cutting quality –

but in coloured gemstones, this revolution has yet to arrive.

Some laboratories are starting to issue cut grades

on reports and a few have even offered the option of

including the cutter’s name as an attempt to add value

and provenance to a gemstone.

Each type of cutting style offers unique benefits to the

gemstones, whether that means enhanced colour, weight

retention, or more sparkle.

Each cutting style offers unique

benefits to the gemstones, whether

that means enhanced colour,

weight retention, or more sparkle"

When the cutter picks up a piece of rough in order to plan

the cut, they must make many complex decisions around

how the stone will be cut, with respect to the rough

stone’s original shape, colour, and weight.

In an attempt to make gemstone and jewellery buyers

more aware of the benefits of different types of cutting,

this guide outlines the benefits and differences between

some of the most popular cuts.

Cutting quality

A disclaimer must be made in a guide such as this –

not all cutting is equal.

The stones that are about to be presented here are

perfectly cut to represent the best qualities of each cut.

When you enter a gem market, this is not always – and

not usually – the case.

Often, we find stones in the market whose cut has

been compromised in order to make the best use

of the original rough.

For buyers, this means that we might see a cut that

fails to present beauty in some way because it has a

window that is leaking light, a poorly shaped outline,

is unintentionally asymmetrical, or a myriad of other

problems which are outside the scope of this article.

Chaumet 'Labyrinthe' brooch

from the Perspectives Collection,

featuring oval rubellite, baguette

tourmaline, jade and brilliant-cut

diamond

Chopard Red Carpet Collection

Earrings, featuring brilliantcut

topaz, cabochon sapphire,

and brilliant-cut orange and

blue sapphire

Van Cleef & Arpels 'Iwamoto'

ring from the Sous Les Étoiles

Collection, featuring octagonal

sapphire, hexagonal emerald,

green tourmaline, baguette

diamond

A note on shape

Before we get into cutting styles, a word must be said

about the shape of the stone. In almost every example in

this article, the outline shape of the stone and the cutting

style are independent features of the cut.

For example, a round stone is often cut in the Brilliant

style but it’s also possible for it to be cut as a Step cut, a

Portuguese cut, a Mixed cut, and many more.

Almost any cutting pattern can be applied to any shape,

so there is a creative choice to be made by the cutter

when designing the stone.

The outline shape will usually follow the shape of the

rough material but the cutting pattern will be chosen

based on the colour and tone of the stone as well as

the optical effect and visual feeling that the cutter

wants to create.

Major cutting styles

Let us begin our journey through the world of gem cuts

with the three major styles. There are some cutting

styles that we see being used over and over in every

type of gemstone.

These three styles represent the most popular cutting

styles used throughout the world of coloured gemstones.

» Brilliant – The Brilliant cut is the best cut for creating

sparkle and flash in a stone. It reflects more white light

and gives the stone a feeling of scintillating light. It’s a

great cut for adding life to a stone, especially if it’s light

or white coloured.

The downside to this cut is that it loses much more of the

stone’s original rough weight and also, since it adds white

light into the stone, the colour saturation decreases.

If you have a stone with a moderately deep colour

saturation and you give it a Brilliant cut, you tend to lose

some of that colour; whereas if you have a dark stone,

the Brilliant cut might be just the thing to lighten it up.

The Brilliant cut was originally made to enhance the

brilliance of diamonds in the 1600s but was quickly

adapted for use in the coloured gemstone world as well.

Any stone can be cut as a Brilliant, though since this is

the cut that loses the most weight, we see it used more

often in stones of lower value as well as melee.

It’s a cut that is regularly used in garnet and topaz, and

rarely seen in emerald and tourmaline; it would be rare

to find a Brilliant cut ruby and slightly challenging to find

a Brilliant cut sapphire.

» Step – Step cut means that the cut is composed of

August 2021 | 43


Lapidary Design | GEMSTONE FEATURE

Round brilliantcut

Montana pink

sapphire by Phil

Lagas-Rivera

Rough and

polished amethyst

in a variety of

shapes and cuts

long parallel rectangular facets. There are different types

of Step cuts – both the Emerald cut and Asscher cut

are types of Step cuts, although the traditional one is a

square or rectangular baguette shape.

Because the pavilion of the stone is rounder and slightly

deeper than a Brilliant cut, this style ends up being the

best way to retain the weight of the rough stone as well

as intensifying the colour saturation.

Almost any cutting pattern

can be applied to any shape,

so there is a creative choice to

be made by the cutter when

designing the stone"

The Step cut is the traditional cut for coloured

gemstones and we can go all the way back to the 1400s

to see where it started being used in sapphires, rubies,

and later on in emeralds.

The rectangular Step and the Emerald cut are very

popular for gemstones that grow in long shapes such

as emerald, tourmaline, and aquamarine.

These stones have a crystal habit which is long and

pencil-like, and it makes sense to give them long designs

with long facets that follow the shape of the crystal.

» Mixed cut – The Mixed cut combines the best of

both the Brilliant and Step cut designs.

The crown of the stone is faceted as a Brilliant cut to

give the stone sparkle and flash, and the pavilion of

the stone is faceted as a Step cut to retain weight and

optimise colour.

This is the most popular type of cutting in the world

today and many popular cutting houses have put this

style in the spotlight.

It originated at the end of the 1800s, coming from the

Step-cut emerald by

Doug Menadue

'Starbrite' Mixed-cut Malaya

Garnet by John Dyer

Portuguese/Brilliant-cut yellow

tourmaline by Daniel Stair

Old Mine-style diamond cut, but has now been adapted

with different angles that are more appropriate for

coloured gemstones.

We often see this cut used on ruby and sapphire, though

any gemstone can be found with this style, from spinel

to garnet to tourmaline.

It’s a popular style that makes almost any gemstone

look good, though it would probably be hard to find an

emerald with this cut.

Popular cutting styles

The next set of cuts are ones that we see frequently in

the coloured gemstone market but are not as readily

available, as the major three described above.

All of these popular styles are cut in the various cutting

centres around the world, and all have unique benefits.

» Portuguese – The Portuguese cut can be very

hit-or-miss. The famous cutting houses in Germany’s

Idar-Oberstein have been popularising this cut for more

than 100 years and, in their careful hands, the cut can

make a subtle-coloured stone like a peachy morganite

or a seafoam tourmaline look vivid and soft, without

becoming too flashy and bright.

The famous cutting houses in

Germany’s Idar-Oberstein have

been popularising this cut for

more than 100 years"

Unfortunately, many other cutting centres have adopted

this cut as well and typically when you find the cuts

coming from India or Thailand, they aren’t well executed.

When done poorly, the cut is used solely to retain weight

but at the cost of making the stone look undesirable.

The typical Portuguese cut has a bulky pavilion that

makes the stone have a lifeless window when looking

44 | August 2021


Lapidary Design | GEMSTONE FEATURE

L to R: 'Starbrite' Mixed cut Oregon

sunstone by John Dyer; Asscher

cut citrine by Doug Menadue;

Cabochon jade, 1stDibs; princesscut

garnet by Magus Gems;

trillion-cut morganite by John

Dyer; lapidary worker polishing

boulder opal; lapidary machine

into the table, surrounded by a black extinction

halo with the true colour of the stone only

revealing itself in small areas along the outside

edge of the stone.

This cut is a weight-saver so it can be found

on all types of stones. Popular stones that are

readily found with this cut would be tourmaline,

tanzanite, amethyst, kunzite, and aquamarine.

» Cabochon – The Cabochon is the oldest cut for

coloured gemstones. It’s the only cut on this list

that isn’t a faceted stone.

The top of the stone is a dome that can be shallow

or deep. The bottom is flat or slightly rounded to

fit into a bezel setting.

A cabochon can also be cut as a Sugarloaf,

which means that it has four sides – like a

rounded pyramid – which gives an effect like a

smooth, colourful piece of candy. The benefit of

the Cabochon is that it ‘glows’ colour, whereas a

faceted gemstone shines.

The Cabochon is often used for lower-quality

transparent material that isn’t as useful for

faceting, though for certain materials such as

jade and opal, the most premium colours and

clarities of the gemstone become the most

beautiful in a Cabochon cut.

Cabochons are also the optimum cut for

displaying phenomenal effects such as stars,

cat’s-eyes and adularescence, which are not

visible without a dome shape. The Cabochon

was once the only cut and its popularity still

continues today.

Every stone can be found as a cabochon but

highlights include jade, star ruby and sapphire,

opal, emerald (especially as a Sugarloaf),

turquoise, cat’s-eye chrysoberyl, moonstone,

and labradorite.

» Trillion – The Trillion cut is a three-sided

triangular cut and is one of the only styles on

this list that is dependent on the shape.

The cutter might choose to use this shape for a

piece of rough gem that is naturally three-sided.

The cutting style is usually a Mixed cut with

a Brilliant crown and either a Brilliant,

Portuguese, or Step cut pavilion.

If the stone is cut on top and bottom in the

Brilliant style then sometimes the name can

be written as ‘Trilliant’.

The benefit of the Cabochon

is that it ‘glows’ colour,

whereas a faceted gemstone

shines... For certain materials

such as jade and opal, the

most premium colours and

clarities of the gemstone

become the most beautiful in

a Cabochon”

The benefit of this cut is that since it has

an odd number of sides, each side reflects

the light of the two opposite sides making

Trillions naturally brighter and more sparkling

than other styles.

The Trillion cut is less common than some other

styles on this list, so you don’t see as many

gemstones readily available in this cut.

The gemstones that you are likely to find

are tanzanite, aquamarine, topaz, amethyst,

and tourmaline.

» Princess – The Princess cut is essentially

a Brilliant cut for square stones. Since the

Brilliant cut is composed of triangular shaped

facets, it doesn’t fit inside of square shapes.

So, in the early 1900s, gem cutters created this

design to be able to give the square shape the

same brilliant sparkle that they were able to

achieve for round shapes.

The Princess cut started as a popular cut

for diamonds but now is used for coloured

gemstones and works very well for brightening

up dark material – though you don’t often see

it used.

It can be used on a square, rectangular

or Emerald cut outline, and gives much

more flash and light return than a Step

cut, but at the cost of losing extra carat

weight in the process.

Sapphires are sometimes cut as Princess cut

because they are frequently sold on shelves next

to diamonds and the cut name often attracts the

eyes of diamond buyers.

However, any dark-toned stone would

benefit from a Princess cut, such as spinels,

tourmalines, and garnets.

» Star – The Star cut is a useful cut that lies

somewhere between a Brilliant cut and a

Portuguese cut.

Essentially, it’s a Brilliant cut that is given an

extra set of facets on the pavilion that can help

soften and diffuse lighter colours such as yellow,

pink, and peach.

It’s a cut that is often used in India and Sri Lanka

but is quite useful on pastel coloured gemstones

that might otherwise become too light with a

normal Brilliant cut.

The Star cut also has the benefit of giving the

46 | August 2021


Like everything else

when it comes to

gemstones, the quality

of the cutting has as

much to do with the

final appearance as

the cutting style"

typical Brilliant cut a slightly fresher look, so if you want

something bright but not so ordinary, this might be

a good choice.

Star cuts are commonly seen but aren’t always recognised

because of their similarity to Brilliant cuts. You can

most often find them enhancing the pastel colours of

tourmaline, morganite, aquamarine, topaz, and garnet.

» Asscher – The Asscher cut is another design that was

originally created for diamonds but which has recently

become popular for coloured stones.

It is a square emerald cut, but when executed correctly

can present a very flashy and bright ‘hall of mirrors’ effect.

The stone was named after its creator Joseph Asscher in

the early 1900s and went out of fashion until the early 2000s.

Today, we are seeing it presented as a newer cut for

coloured gemstones and many people like its shape, which

gives a slightly antique feel, harkening back to the Art

Deco days from which it originated.

Like the Princess cut, the Asscher cut isn’t a traditional

style for coloured gemstones. Usually, the gemstone needs

to be custom-cut to find this style; it is most often seen in

tourmaline, garnet, spinel, and sometimes sapphire.

Modern cutting styles

There are thousands of modern cuts that

could be presented here, but only a few

popular favourites have been chosen.

These modern cuts are not usually

available in stores or commercially; they

are typically designed and cut

by boutique cutters in the

precision market.

» Opposed Bar – The Opposed

Bar cut is an American d

esign from the middle of

the 20th Century that gives

a unique optical illusion,

Above: Opposed

Bar-cut green

tourmaline by

John Dyer

Left: Asscher-cut

Ceylon sapphire by

Jeff White


Lapidary Design | GEMSTONE FEATURE

L to R: Tourmaline crystals;

prong setting work on the

'Iwamoto' ring from the Sous

les Étoiles Collection, courtesy

Van Cleef and Arpels

Above: Hanami-cut amethyst

and citrine by Marco Voltolini

resembling flashing pixels that light up as the

stone is rotated.

The cut needs to be done on a square or

rectangular-shaped stone and is comprised

of rectangular facets on the crown, running

widthwise, and long rectangular facets running

perpendicular on the pavilion.

These opposing rectangles give this modern cut

style its name and the effect they create is unlike

any other design.

The Opposed Bar favours long crystals such as

tourmaline, aquamarine, and heliodor. Bi-colour

and tri-colour stones work especially well in this

cut so watermelon tourmaline and ametrine are

particularly stunning in the Opposed Bar style.

» Checkerboard – The Checkerboard cut is a

design that has no table; instead, the crown is

faceted into tiny squares arranged in a grid that

resembles a checkerboard.

Because there is no table, you don’t easily see

inside the gemstone, so instead your eye tends

to focus on the colour.

This is an excellent cut for material that has

inclusions; because your eye becomes distracted

by the checkerboard pattern, the inclusions are

less obvious, making the gemstone look more

presentable. The pavilion can be cut in any style

such as Brilliant or Step cut.

The Checkerboard pattern can be used on any

type of gemstone but can often be found on

amethyst, smoky quartz, topaz, aquamarine,

garnet, rose quartz, morganite, and sometimes

even an included ruby.

» Hearts-and-Arrows – Hearts-and-Arrows is

another diamond cut that has been adopted by

the coloured gemstone industry.

It’s a Brilliant cut with very specific and

precisely-executed angles that give the

illusion of tiny hearts and arrows that

appear in the negative space between the

flashes of the stone.

Because it requires specific angles, it’s

difficult to ‘pull off’ in coloured gemstones –

which is why you don’t often see this design

available in the commercial market. When done

well, the effect is subtle but impressive.

The Opposed Bar favours

long crystals such as

tourmaline, aquamarine, and

heliodor. Bi-colour and tricolour

stones work especially

well in this cut"

The Hearts-and-Arrows cut is most often seen in

sapphire in centrepiece sizes, as well as melée

size. Since this is typically used as a diamond

cut, it’s often asked for by diamond customers

who are entering the world of coloured

gemstones for the first time.

Tsavorite garnets can sometimes be found with a

very stunning Hearts-and-Arrows cut as well.

» Hanami – The Hanami cut is a 21st Century

American cut by Marco Voltolini, a prolific

American gemstone cut designer.

The design of the stone emulates the shape of

the cherry blossom flower; the Japanese term

hanami means “the act of viewing a cherry

blossom in full bloom”.

The clever use of both polished and frosted

(unpolished) facets on the crown gives the

stone the optical illusion of having curves in

the angular flat facets. This is a cut that you

definitely won’t find in a store, so if it interests

you, contact your local boutique cutter and have

it customised in the material of your choice.

Concluding thoughts

There are many types of cuts out there and many

qualities of cutting. Like everything else when it

comes to gemstones, the quality of the cutting

has as much to do with the final appearance as

the cutting style. A good design executed poorly

will not enhance the appearance of a gemstone.

When a gem-cutter understands the basic

laws of gemmology and has the right skills

and equipment to give the stone a cut with an

appropriate design, well-proportioned angles,

and good meetpoints, the stone’s beauty will be

maximised and can be enjoyed for a lifetime.

This is an edited version of an article that was first

published as "A Coloured Gemstone Buyer's Guide

to Cut Styles" in The Australian Gemmologist,

Volume 27(3), 2020, pp 108-113, and is reproduced

with permission.

JUSTIN K PRIM is an American lapidary and

gemmologist based in Bangkok, Thailand. He has

studied gem-cutting traditions all over the world

as well as attending gemmology programs at

the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) and

Asian Institute of Gemological Sciences (AIGS).

He works as a lapidary instructor for the Institute

of Gem Trading as well as writing articles,

producing videos, and giving talks about gemcutting

history. Visit: www.justinkprim.com

48 | August 2021


July 2021 | 41

ziro_wd


CELEBRATING

Local Talent

Jewellers Showcase

ARBOR BRUNSWICK

The Little Things

Black Diamond Ring

Metal: 9-carat yellow gold

Gemstone: Black diamond

Elise Newman

Melbourne, VIC

SARAH

GARDNER

JEWELLERY

Emerald And Pink

Sapphire Splatter

Earrings

Metal: 18-carat

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Gemstones:

Emerald, pink

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Sarah Gardner

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KIP WILCKENS

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Gemstone: Diamond

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Australia and New Zealand are not only home to some of the

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Jeweller showcases a tapestry of local masterpieces that have been

meticulously crafted with great artisanship, right here on home soil

HAMISH MUNRO

Large Window Ring

and Parmentier Ring

Metal: 9-carat

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Gemstones: Pink

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Hamish Munro

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Etrusca Opal

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August 2021 | 51


Jewellers Showcase

PAUL TAYLOR

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Metal: 9-carat

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Gemstones:

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HOLLY RYAN

Gold Wabi

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Metals: 9-carat

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Gemstone: Diamond

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Sydney, NSW

ADINA JOZSEF

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Sapphire & Pearl

Drop Earrings

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Metal: 18-carat

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52 | August 2021


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LESSONS IN LUXURY

Understanding LVMH

LVMH:

WHY NO OTHER

COMPANY

COMPARES

Luxury industry expert DANIEL LANGER

explores the behemoth that is Moët Hennessy

Louis Vuitton, and what every luxury business

can learn from its success.

Louis Vuitton 2021 'Bravery' High Jewellery Campaign


Tiffany & Co

LESSONS IN LUXURY | Understanding LVMH

TABLE 1: LVMH VS KERING & RICHEMONT

Revenue of Europe's largest luxury groups, as at FY2020.

REVENUE (€M)

# of Brands

Dior

LVMH 44,651 74*

Richemont ** 13,144 25

Kering *** 13,100 12

by DANIEL LANGER

KEY FIGURES

Luxury By

The Numbers

* Excludes Tiffany & Co. which was acquired in January 2021.

** Richemont does not have a Wines & Spirits, Cosmetics & Perfume, or

Selective Retailing division; however, it does have an Online Retail division

*** Kering does not have a Wines & Spirits, Cosmetics & Perfume,

or Selective Retailing division | Jeweller Research

Most people are astonished by the size

and dynamics of the luxury market.

Intuitively, they assume luxury is

a niche business – even people who work for

luxury brands share this outlook.

But what many underestimate is a luxury brand’s

enormous value creation potential.

This year, 2021, marks a historic moment for the luxury

industry. All brands are hoping for better performances

than last year and a speedy recovery for the European and

North American luxury markets.

Both regions fared poorly during the pandemic, with some

categories losing 50 per cent or more of their market in

these geographic regions, which many of the world’s mostadmired

luxury brands call home.

However, with the pandemic still raging across the first

quarter of 2021, and most key European markets in strict

lockdowns, the news that Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton

(LVMH) became Europe’s most valuable company might

have come as a surprise.

According to data analyzed by Finaria, the French luxury

conglomerate reached a staggering $US319.4 billion

(€264.6 billion) as of February 26, 2021, surpassing Nestlé,

the Swiss food giant.

What’s driving this all-time-high valuation is how the

luxury group used 2020 better than other luxury houses

and put itself in the pole position for when the markets

returned to – relatively – normal trading.

In short, their strategy execution is a masterpiece of

extreme value creation from which other brands can learn.

The value of luxury

What many businesses don’t fully understand is that

consumers don’t buy luxury for the product itself, but for

the brand’s exclusive value – which I describe using the

term ‘Added Luxury Value’ (ALV).

€264.4b

LVMH valuation,

26 February 2021

Source: Finaria

€196.8b

Personal fortune of

LVMH CEO Bernard

Arnault, June 2021

Source: Forbes

41%

Revenue from

the Asian market

Source: LVMH Annual

Report 2020

75

Number of luxury

brands – ‘maisons’ –

owned by LVMH

€4.02b

Revenue from

LVMH’s Watches &

Jewellery division in

the first half of 2021

ALV is fascinating yet at the same time tricky. It is a

value that results from psychological effects that make

our brains attribute positive aspects – such as higher

attractiveness, more expertise, a better life, and more

self-esteem – to a person who buys or showcases a

luxury item or brand.

In other words, a luxury handbag or luxury watch

ensures you are perceived as smarter, more attractive,

and more fun to be with, according to my research.

Brands with powerful stories that

create desire can add significant

premiums due to the rare value

they produce; it is not only the raw

materials, but what the branded

product represents, that the

consumer purchases"

It is an automatic, archaic response in our brains that we

cannot deny. Studies in Europe, China, Japan, and North

America confirmed that the ALV effect is universal –

regardless of how much we like luxury and independent

of age or other variables.

Even the product is mostly irrelevant, as this desire is

driven primarily by the perceived story about the brand.

Hence, brands with powerful stories that create desire

can add significant premiums due to the rare value they

produce; it is not only the raw materials, but what the

branded product represents, that the consumer purchases.

If your business’ brand creates high perceived consumer

value, you can price for it and achieve profitability far

beyond other categories; conversely, if brands cannot

develop powerful stories, offer consistent experiences,

or price their products correctly, ALV either does not

develop or collapses completely.

August 2021 | 55


Understanding LVMH | LESSONS IN LUXURY

7%

Watches &

Jewellery

11%

Wines & Spirits

Bulgari

12%

Perfumes &

Cosmetics

47%

Fashion &

Leather Goods

A TIMELINE

THE MAKING OF

A LUXURY TITAN

ACQUISITIONS & MILESTONES

23%

Selective Retailing

& Other

1984

1987

1988

1990

1993

1994

1996

1997

1998

1999

Businessman Bernard Arnault acquires Boussac, the bankrupt

parent company of Christian Dior, for $US60 million

Louis Vuitton merges with Moët-Hennessy to form LVMH in

a $US4 billion deal; disputes immediately begin over control

of the companies and Henry Racamier, long-term CEO Louis

Vuitton, invites Arnault to acquire stock to secure his position

LVMH acquires couture fashion house Givenchy from its founder,

Hubert de Givenchy; it already controls Parfums Givenchy

via subsidiary Veuve Clicquot

Following a legal battle between Arnault and Racamier,

Racamier steps down from LVMH

French businessman Yves Carcelle joins LVMH as strategic

director; under his leadership, the company invests in

marketing through PR stunts, celebrity endorsements, and –

most effectively – generating artificial scarcity

Italian men’s apparel and leather goods brand Berluti and

French-Japanese fashion brand Kenzo are folded into the group

French perfume, cosmetics, and skincare brand Guerlain –

founded in 1828 – is sold to LVMH by the Guerlain family

Founded in 1945, Paris-based fashion and leather goods brand

Céline is fully integrated into LVMH at a cost of FR2.7 billion;

Spanish fashion house Loewe, founded in 1846, is also acquired

LVMH invests $US2.6 billion to acquire a 61 per cent stake in

DFS, a specialty retailer catering to international travellers

(duty-free shopping); it also acquires winery Chateau D’Yquem

LVMH acquires French perfume and cosmetics retailer Sephora

for $US267 million

The Asian economic crisis eats into sales, with the Specialty

Retail division recording a 22 per vent decline in revenue for the

first nine months of the year; however Arnault is undeterred and

proceeds with the acquisition of Le Bon Marché, an exclusive

Paris retailer, as well as champagne brand Krug

The conglomerate pursues even more expansion, with

the purchase of several US cosmetics companies and the

establishment of its Watches & Jewellery division including

TAG Heuer, Zenith, Ebel, and Chaumet; LVMH establishes US

headquarters in New York

And once it’s gone, it rarely returns.

That is why many brands in the luxury sector decline quickly

or never take off at all – managing ALV is a core task in

luxury, and few brands spend the proper time on it.

Unsurprisingly, LVMH is a master of storytelling and brand

experience creation. Its founder and CEO, Bernard Arnault

– who briefly became the world’s richest man in May –

famously described luxury as “the ability to create desire”;

the greater the lust, the higher the value creation.

LVMH is a master of storytelling

and brand experience creation. Its

founder and CEO, Bernard Arnault

– who briefly became the world’s

richest man in May – famously

described luxury as “the ability to

create desire”; the greater the lust,

the higher the value creation "

In turn, more customers flock to the brands with the highest

value creation and are willing to pay prices that correspond

to that value.

Creative strategy

So how is that value achieved? The answer is with a

combination of the best managers in luxury and uniquely

talented creatives like Dior’s Kim Jones and Louis Vuitton’s

Virgil Abloh.

A good example is the acquisition of Rimowa in October

2016. Before LVMH controlled the luggage brand, it was

without a clear profile or quality brand storytelling.

It overemphasised its heritage – displaying almost

a complete lack of innovation – and exclusively sold

products wholesale, with little oversight of how they were

merchandised or marketed. This impacted consumers’

‘brand experience’ significantly.

As CEO, Alexandre Arnault – Bernard’s 29-year-old son,

56 | August 2021


LESSONS IN LUXURY | Understanding LVMH

CHART A + TABLE 2: LVMH COMPOSITION

BY PRODUCT CATEGORY & REVENUE

Category % REVENUE # of Brands

Fashion & Leather Goods 47% 14

Selective Retailing & Other 23% 16

Perfumes & Cosmetics 12% 14

Wines & Spirits 11% 24

Watches & Jewellery 7% 6

who reportedly convinced his father to pursue the acquisition

– cleaned up the 122-year-old brand’s distribution, removing

wholesalers and promotions, significantly increasing prices,

and making the brand a disruptive force.

Because of Rimowa’s efforts, carry-on luggage became as

desirable as handbags for the first time in history, with seasonal

collections that created the urge among wealthy travellers to

showcase their newest and latest Rimowa holdalls.

The Off-White x Rimowa transparent trolley quickly

became an instant hit, as did a collaboration with streetwear

brand Supreme.

Then, with travel limited during the COVID-19 pandemic,

Rimowa switched to backpacks and more practical items that

people could use every day.

With an injection of creativity and

‘experience creation’, as well as more

coherent pricing and assortment

strategies, Tiffany will have enormous

potential to expand"

As a result, Rimowa became the perfect example of how a

lagging brand can transform into a creative luxury powerhouse

with a compelling brand story.

During the pandemic, LVMH acquired the

famed jeweller Tiffany & Co. I expect

the company to give the brand

a complete transformation

similar to Rimowa’s, which

will breathe new life and

significant growth into the

iconic American brand

which already enjoys

massive appeal in Asia.

With an injection of creativity

and ‘experience creation’, as

well as more coherent pricing

and assortment strategies,

Tiffany will have enormous

TOTAL 100% 74

Source: LVMH Annual Report 2020, excludes Tiffany & Co.,

which was acquired in January 2021. Jeweller Research

Tiffany & Co.

2000

2001

2005

2011

2013

2015

2016

2017

2019

2021

Tiffany & Co.

LVMH sells its stake in Gucci to Pinault-Printemps-Redoute

(now Kering) for $US806 million

LVMH takes a controlling interest in Italian fashion houses

Emilio Pucci and Fendi and a minority stake in Rossimoda, later

acquiring sole ownership

LVMH acquires a 55 percent stake in iconic Art Deco-Art Nouveau

French department store La Samaritaine and its real estate

assets for €256 million; the store falls into disrepair in 2005 and

LVMH later increases its ownership to 100 per cent in 2010

The conglomerate acquires an 89 per cent stake in US fashion

brand DKNY, later selling it for $US650 million

The year also marks the start of LVMH’s attempt to take a

controlling interest in Hermès; however, its accumulation of

shares via subsidiaries is later found to breach French financial

laws, leading LVMH to divest its 23.1 per cent stake in 2015

The flagship Louis Vuitton ‘Maison’ opens on the Champs-

Élysées in Paris to great fanfare. LVMH’s retail distribution

network reaches 1,700 stores worldwide

In a $US5.2 billion deal, LVMH acquires a controlling stake in

Italian jewellery brand Bulgari from the Bulgari family

LVMH spends €2 billion to acquire an 80 percent stake in the

Italian luxury textile and ready-to-wear company Loro Piana

Furthering its financial interests in the jewellery sector, LVMH

purchases a minority stake in Italian jewellery brand Repossi,

later increasing its stake to 69 per cent

A €640 million deal sees LVMH take an 80 per cent stake in

German luggage Rimowa

LVMH makes its most expensive acquisition yet, spending

$US13.1 billion to take control of Christian Dior

The conglomerate announces plans to acquire US jewellery

company Tiffany & Co. for $US16.2 billion; however, due to

the disruption of the COVID-19 pandemic, the deal is later

renegotiated amid legal wrangling

LVMH completes its acquisition of Tiffany & Co. for $US16 billion,

its largest deal to date

Following an $US894 million refurbishment to turn it into a ‘retail

destination’, La Samaritaine is re-opened in Paris

Jeweller Research

August 2021 | 57


Understanding Up Close and LVMH Personal | LESSONS | PERSONALISED IN LUXURY JEWELLERY

CHART B: LVMH GROWTH OVER TIME – REVENUE/SALES & NUMBER OF STORES

REVENUE / SALES (€M)

NUMBER OF STORES

GFC

COVID-19

PANDEMIC

60,000

40,000

20,000

0

2000

2001

2002

2003

2004

2005

2006

2007

2008

2009

2010

2011

2012

2013

2014

2015

2016

2017

2018

2019

2020

Sources: LVMH Annual Reports (2000–2020), Jeweller analysis. Note: Store count unavailable for 2000–2001 | Jeweller Research

potential to expand. Notably, Alexandre Arnault left

his CEO role at Rimowa earlier this year to join

Tiffany & Co. as its executive vice-president of product

and communication.

In March, LVMH named Ruba Abu-Nimah – a creative

director, design and experiential consultant – as Tiffany’s

creative director, with Cartier’s Nathalie Verdeille as

vice-president and artistic director of jewellery and high

jewellery, appointed in July.

Pandemic potential

Unlike many other luxury houses, LVMH has refrained

from lowering prices or from promoting during the

pandemic – a strategy that I suggest is the best practice

for luxury brands.

In fact, brands like Dior introduced price increases,

reflecting the extreme value its brand creates.

Another of LVMH’s strong characteristics is that it isn’t

afraid of making tough decisions.

LVMH provides a lesson for other

luxury brands: if you focus on the

excellent execution of a strong

brand story, avoid the urge to

promote, and digitally engage

with your customer base in tough

times, then you will be rewarded in

customer desire, larger revenues,

and higher profitability"

One such decision was putting Fenty – the glamorous

fashion house it created together with pop singer Rihanna

– on hold in February 2021.

Rumours about Fenty’s disappointing results and the high

cost of establishing a new brand led LVMH to shift its focus

to more promising and scalable brands for the time being.

SNAPSHOT

Notable

Acquisitions

1987

1988

1997

1999

1999

2011

2017

2021

In 2020, key LVMH brands like Dior continued to expand

digitally by experimenting with newer platforms like TikTok,

while other luxury brands were reluctant and slow to adapt.

As such, the Dior x Air Jordan limited edition shoe created

one of the highest instances of ‘digital demand’ ever, with

more than 5 million people attempting to buy the shoes

over the Dior website.

This increased resale prices of the limited edition shoes to

between $US10,000–$20,000, depending on the platform.

That initiative alone shows the power of ALV.

The ability to consistently manage a complex brand

portfolio with the primary focus of creating desire and ALV

– and translating that extreme value into higher prices –

explains LVMH’s success story and has driven its market

valuation to unprecedented heights.

The company’s brands have been among the best

managed during the pandemic, connecting strongly with

their customer groups while always innovating.

LVMH provides a lesson for other luxury brands: if you

focus on the excellent execution of a strong brand story,

avoid the urge to promote, and digitally engage with

your customer base in tough times, then you will be

rewarded in customer desire, larger revenues, and higher

profitability.

The current surge behind LVMH reflects that investors

believe the company is well-positioned to lead, even in a

pandemic.

Do people have that kind of faith in your brand?

This is an edited version of an article that was first

published by Jing Daily in March 2021, and is reproduced

with permission.

DANIEL LANGER is one of the world’s most renowned

experts on luxury brand building and extreme value

creation. He is professor of Luxury Strategy at Pepperdine

University, a keynote speaker, and a consultant to iconic

luxury and lifestyle brands. Visit: daniellanger.digital and

twitter.com/drlanger

58 | August 2021


FRESH FOCUS

REMAKING TIFFANY

Since acquiring the American jewellery juggernaut in

January 2021, LVMH has undertaken a full-scale transition

of its executive leadership. Veterans of its other divisions –

including senior management from Louis Vuitton and Rimowa

– have taken the reins, with creative positions filled

by executives from brands such as Cartier and Revlon.

Among plans for store renovations and pop-ups – including

the successful yellow store on Los Angeles’ Rodeo Drive, to

accompany the Tiffany Diamond – LVMH has also indicated it will

invest significantly in expanding the Tiffany & Co. brand worldwide.

Jean-Jacques Guiony, chief financial officer LVMH, told investors

earlier this year, “Integrating Tiffany is very important to us... [The

company is] a big acquisition for us [and] our number one priority.

“It will take years to do what we want to do with this brand, from

a distribution, merchandising, and marketing viewpoint. It is a lot

of work – we are committed to doing it.”

High-profile new celebrity spokespeople have been announced

in recent months, including actresses Anya Taylor-Joy (top right)

and Tracee Ellis Ross (top center), Olympian Eileen Gu, Blackpink

singer Roseanne ‘Rosé’ Park (top left), and performer Jackson Yee.

UNDER NEW MANAGEMENT

CHAIRMAN

Michael Burke

Also chairman, Louis Vuitton

The Diamonds by DGA range includes

9K and 18K gold bridal sets, wedding

bands, earrings, bracelets,

rings and pendants.

New season designs now available.

CEO

Anthony Ledru

Former executive vice-president of

global commercial activities, Louis Vuitton

VICE-PRESIDENT OF PRODUCT

& COMMUNICATION

Alexandre Arnault

Former CEO, Rimowa

EXECUTIVE CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Ruba Abu-Nimah

Former creative director, Revlon

V I C E - P R E S I D E N T /

ARTISTIC DIRECTOR OF JEWELLERY

Nathalie Verdeille

Former creative director, Cartier

Proudly distributed by

Jeweller Research

02 9417 0177 | www.dgau.com.au


EXCLUSIVELY DISTRIBUTED BY

02 94170177 / WWW.DGAU.COM.AU


2021 BUYING GUIDE

Christmas Ready

SHOW &

TELL

Christmas

Jeweller has compiled a selection of

jewellery and watches to inspire and

delight your customers, as well as

services to ensure your store is wellprepared

ahead of the all-important

shopping period.

August 2021 | 61


Christmas Ready | 2021 BUYING GUIDE

Ania Haie

Duraflex Group Australia

Preparing for a stylish summer, Ania

Haie’s new collections encapsulate the

season’s hottest styles. The Forget Me

Knot collection stems from the catwalk

trend of knotted and netted materials.

Exploring the use of shape and

construction, it features contemporary

chunky T-bar chains, knotted ear cuffs

and sleek, stackable knot rings.

aniahaie.com.au

Atlas Pearls

Atlas Pearls is a global leader

in sustainable, ethicallyproduced

white and silver

South Sea pearls. More than

500,000 pearls are harvested

each year from six farms

located in pristine waters.

Atlas Pearls is proud to supply

pearls certified from the

source, worldwide and online.

atlaspearls.com.au

Autore Pearls

Detailed in 18-carat white

gold with white diamonds and

South Sea pearls, the Autore

Hercules Knot Ring is part of

the Mediterranean Collection.

The design was inspired by

the Hercules knot, an ancient

Roman love symbol.

autorepearls.com.au

Ayres Packaging & Display

Available in four stylish colours,

the Belmont packaging range

provides the look of luxury at

an affordable price. It features

a European fine linen case with

soft fabric inner, with matching

packer and interchangeable

pads to reduce costs.

ayres.com.au

Aztec Gold & Silver

A blast from the past, the Spratling Bracelet

takes you back to the swinging’ 60s! Enhanced

by amethysts, this uniquely colourful jewellery

has been well received and is part of the

hand-finished Classic Bangle Collection,

which is available at an accessible price point.

Baume & Mercier

Duraflex Group Australia

Originally created in 1973, the iconic

Riviera watch has been given a new

lease on life this year. Revamped in

green to express the energy, joie de

vivre, and natural environment of

its homeland – the Mediterranean

coast – it retains the original’s

distinctive dodecagonal bezel and

streamlined steel case.

baume-et-mercier.com/au

62 | August 2021


SPRING SUMMER 2021 I 22

SEE THE NEW SS21 COLLECTION - REED GIFT FAIR Melbourne [stand BB17] & IJF Sydney [stand D01]

Timesupply

jewellery + watches

p +61 (0)8 8221 5580

sales@timesupply.com.au | coeurdelionjewellery.com.au

exclusive distributor AU & NZ


Christmas Ready | 2021 BUYING GUIDE

Beco Technic

The Battery Man

The Beco Technic Hand

Setter features zeropoint-fixing

and an

attachment for optional

movement holders, as

well as intermediate

plates for adjusting.

beco-technic.com

Blush Pink Diamonds

SAMS Group Australia

Tasteful, tender and always

in fashion, the Blush Pink

Collection is where comfort

meets glamour. Imbued with

the soft pink hues of Australian

Argyle pink diamonds, every

piece features intricate design

touches, combined with a

strong, sophisticated style.

The Blush Pink range is the

ultimate affordable luxury.

pinkkimberley.com.au

Breuning

Osjag

Dare to be different and

bring glamour back with

these stunning blue topaz

and amethyst pieces,

set in sterling silver with

gold-plated highlights – the

latest high-quality creative

design from Breuning,

Germany’s largest jewellery

manufacturing house.

breuning.de

Bronzallure

Duraflex Group Australia

The Maxima Collection’s

versatile freshwater pearl styles

are perfect for formal occasions

or for an elevated everyday look.

bronzallure.com

Bonbon Guy Promotions

The Bonbon Promotion has

consistently proven to be one of

the best tools for major December

turnover increases within the

jewellery industry. Bonbon Guy

Promotions has run the promotion

successfully since 2014 for a select

group of retailers, and has now

made it available to all jewellers.

The Alba Collection features nature’s

most sought-after hues in contemporary

designs, with new additions malachite,

amazonite and red fossil wood.

64 | August 2021


PINK KIMBERLEY DIAMOND SEALS

ORIGIN PROVIDED BY ARGYLE

To

To

ensure

ensure

the

the

highest

highest

standard

standard of

of

authenticity

authenticity

and

and

provenance,

provenance,

each

each

Pink

Pink

Kimberley

Kimberley

diamond

diamond

seal

seal

established

established

comes

comes

with

with

true

true

Argyle

Argyle

ine

ine origin,

origin,

complete

complete

with

with

Argyle

Argyle

ot

ot

umber

umber

or

or

Argyle

Argyle

erticate

erticate

provided

provided

by

by

the

the

mine.

mine.

Pink Kimberley does not rely on third-parties to establish the Argyle origin.

Pink Kimberley does not rely on third-parties to establish the Argyle origin.

PinkKimberley.com.au

PinkKimberley.com.au

SAMS GROUP

E pinksamsgroup.com.au W samsgroup.com.au P 02 9290 2199 SAMS AUSTRALIA GROUP

pinksamsgroup.com.au samsgroup.com.au P 02 9290 2199 AUSTRALIA


Christmas Ready | 2021 BUYING GUIDE

Chemgold

Chemgold proudly presents our full range of casting

alloys, The Colours of Chemgold. The collection of

alloys is the largest in the country, offering options in

platinum, white gold, yellow gold, silver, bronze and

brass. For the highest quality casting, backed with

impeccable service,contact the Chemgold team.

chemgold.com

Classique

SAMS Group Australia

Setting the ultimate standard of

excellence, Classique is an Australianowned

brand with Swiss-made quality.

Known for its sleek designs and

scrupulous craftsmanship, Classique

is well ahead of its time. The brand

boasts an unbeatable dedication to

sourcing the highest quality materials.

classiquewatches.com

Proudly distributed by

Cluse

Heart & Grace

Bold. Elegant. Sophisticated. If

you want to make a statement,

the Cluse Fluette watch is your

best friend. Designed with a

polished 30.6mm case and

stainless-steel link bracelet, its

uniquely rectangular shape and

minimalistic flair makes the

Fluette an eye-catching watch

with a strong presence.

cluse.com

02 9417 0177 | www.dgau.com.au


BLUE SHARK III AZORES

The latest edition of Delma’s ultimate dive watch, water resistant

to 4000 meters, has joined the collection with the poignant

mission to preserve the sharks and their habitat in the abundant

waters of the Azores archipelago.

TIME TO PERFORM

Represented by Keda Konsulting, www.keda.com.au Email: mark.watson@keda.com.au


Christmas Ready | 2021 BUYING GUIDE

Cudworth Enterprises

Celebrating its 100th anniversary in 2021,

Australia’s leading men’s supplier of fashion

jewellery is launching a new collection. One of

the many fresh styles included is this Multi-

Strand Leather Bracelet, with an extendable

design crafted in navy and black Italian leather

with antique ion plating.

cudworthenterprises.com

Coeur de Lion

Timesupply

A beautiful new style from Coeur de

Lion, this bracelet features elegant

spheres of natural soft pink stone,

sparkling European crystals and

crystal pearls with haematite accents,

handmade in Germany. Also includes

matching necklace and earrings.

coeurdelionjewellery.com.au

D1 Milano

West End Collection

The Skeleton Automatic is made for those

who seek a bold style. It features a 41.5mm

see-through case and stands out for its

24-jewel self-winding Japanese movement,

enriched by a stainless-steel bracelet.

d1milano.com

Delma

Keda

delma.ch

The Cayman Field aspires to

travel with style and reliability. Built

upon the design of a 1970s Delma

dive watch, the functionality of the

new edition is apparent with bold,

luminous numerals set against a solid

black dial, while the red 24-hour track

makes military time easy to register.

A tribute to Delma’s first chronograph,

launched 75 years ago, the Heritage

Chronograph LE Collection is limited to

only 75 pieces per model in recognition of

this milestone. The collection maintains

the essential characteristics of the original

and features a tachymeter and telemeter,

now powered by an automatic movement.

The new edition of Delma’s ultimate

dive watch, the Blue Shark III Azores, has

a poignant mission: to preserve the sharks

and their habitat in the abundant waters

surrounding the Azores archipelago. Water

resistant to 4,000m, these models possess

a unique textured gradient dial embodying

the colours of the subtropical oasis.

68 | August 2021


2021 BUYING GUIDE | Christmas Ready

Dansk Copenhagen

Timesupply

Bold and organic styling is

reflected in these beautiful

new earrings from Dansk

Copenhagen. Matte gold

contrasts against solid black and

makes a dramatic statement.

danskcopenhagen.com

Diamonds by DGA

Duraflex Group Australia

Duraflex Group Australia is delighted to

share the latest addition to the unbranded

Diamonds by DGA range – 9-carat gold and

diamond Initial Necklaces, available in yellow

or white gold. The on-trend Initial Necklaces

feature a single diamond-encrusted letter

pendant suspended on a fine chain.

dgau.com.au


Christmas Ready | 2021 BUYING GUIDE

DJ Diamond Designs

DJ Diamond Designs is a fine

diamond and coloured gemstone

jewellery supplier that has been

serving the industry for more

than a decade. Discover the

latest additions to the beautiful

DJ Diamond Designs collection,

including these diamond, sapphire

and emerald earrings and the

18-carat yellow and white gold

crossover bangle, set with more

than 3 carats of diamonds.

djdiamonddesigns.com.au

Distell International

Featuring morganite,

Mozambique garnet, and

diamonds set in 9-carat rose

gold, Distell’s new Bespoke

Collections inspire and delight.

distellinternational.com.au

DPI Jewellery

DPI Jewellery has added many fresh designs

to its ever-popular Blaze men’s range for

the upcoming season. This multi-strand

bracelet, featuring plaited leather and rose

gold accent beading, has the added benefit

of an adjustable clasp – a new feature

throughout DPI’s latest designs.

jewellerydpi.com

Efva Attling Stockholm

Nordic Fusion

Efva Attling Stockholm embodies modern

elegance with an edgy twist. One of Sweden’s

most-recognised designers and silversmiths,

Efva says, “I want to boost people with my design

and let the jewellery be conversation pieces. I

love to mix humour with seriousness and love, to

create unique pieces with a deeper meaning.”

efvaattling.com

70 | August 2021


2021 BUYING GUIDE | Christmas Ready

Ellani Collections

Discover the stunning array of spring colours in

Ellani Collections’ latest Spring/Summer 2021

release, from soft greens to pastel pinks and purples.

ellani.com.au


Christmas Ready | 2021 BUYING GUIDE

Evotech Pacific

Evotech Pacific supplies a range of technology solutions for the

Australian and New Zealand jewellery industry, including Gemvision

MatrixGold Jewellery Design Software, Gemvision CounterSketch

International Jewellery Design Software, the Evograver Combined

Micromotor/Graving Unit, the Evolight 3D Scanner and the XT

Lasers 100W Laser Welder.

evotechpacific.com.au

Proudly distributed by

Georgini

West End Collection

Simple and stylish, the

Splendore Earring is your go-to

for sparkle. Featuring a classic

halo pear design, these earrings

make everyday elegance easy.

georgini.com.au

02 9417 0177 | www.dgau.com.au


2021 BUYING GUIDE | Christmas Ready

Fabuleux Vous

fabuleuxvous.com

In the Declaration

Collection, every piece

tells a story and inspires

new ones. These

handcrafted sterling

silver medallions each

feature a rose gold-plated

emblem, with 15 different

stories to choose from.

Matching earrings and

bracelets available.

These statement earrings –

featuring stunning freshwater

pearls – will turn heads. They

are crafted in sterling silver,

with rose gold and yellow goldplated

options available.

Galvin Watch Company

Galvin Watch Company was founded in Sydney

by Finnish watchmaker Susan Galvin in March

2020. The company’s inaugural range, the Alku

Collection, is inspired by European dress watches

of the 1940s, with a domed dial being a key feature.

galvinwatchcompany.com.au


Christmas Ready | 2021 BUYING GUIDE

Gerrim International

Bring on the joyful spring with the Shiraz

Collection! Adorned with citrine, pink

sapphire and rhodolite garnet, these designs

combine vibrant yellow with the luxurious

elegance of diamonds and the heart’s desire

through pink and red accents. Celebrate

special moments with Gerrim jewellery.

gerrim.com

Grown Diamonds

Physically, optically and chemically

identical to mined diamonds, Grown

Diamonds’ lab-created stones are

ethical, eco-conscious and affordable.

In stock is this stunning 5.01-carat

VS1 oval-cut lab-grown diamond – the

largest currently in Australia – which is

available to view online.

growndiamonds.com.au

18ct Diamond & Coloured Gemstone Jewellery

DJDIAMONDDESIGNS.COM.AU

Daniel Jacuk - 0412 071 103

Ice-Watch

West End Collection

Go green and do your part for the planet

with the new Ice-Watch Solar Sunset. This

black solar-powered timepiece is ultra

slim and feather-light. Water resistant to

5 ATM and made with tough ABS plastic,

just expose it to a light source to charge.

ice-watch.com

Sydney 74 International | August 2021 Jewellery Fair

August 28-30th - Stand C44


Golden Mile

Golden Mile has a huge range of new fashionable designs,

both solid and silver-filled, including the ever-popular

Paperclip Chain. See Golden Mile for new styles and restock

on the bestsellers. With fine chains now in stock in

finished lengths, get products in-store quicker than ever.

goldenmile.com.au

Ikecho Australia

Ikecho Australia presents an

array of stunning pearl and

opal jewellery, including hook

earrings and pendants, set in

9-carat yellow and rose gold.

On-trend keshi pearls and

pink Edison pearls give these

designs a modern update.

ikecho.com.au

RJ SCANLAN TRADE ONLY WEBSITE

OVER 1500 ITEMS OF EUROPEAN JEWELLERY

APPLY FOR ACCOUNT OR CALL TO DISCUSS - 03 9553 4033


Christmas Ready | 2021 BUYING GUIDE

Inspiring Pearls

Specialising in freshwater pearl jewellery,

Inspiring Pearls’ latest additions include

earrings, enhancers, and pendants

featuring baroque shapes paired with

rhodium-plated sterling silver, lavender

pearls with rose gold, and classic pure

white hues.

inspiringpearls.com.au

ImajPak

ImajPak is excited to add ‘Chai’ colour packaging to

its extensive range. Chai is available in RT, TR, TB

and GBCH ranges. ImajPak products include supplies

packaging, display, jewellery boxes and money boxes.

imajpak.com

La Couronne Jewellery

Specialists in jewellery for more than 35

years, La Couronne’s exquisite product range

and marketing materials set an industry

benchmark. Existing to boost your sales,

each seasonal catalogue and collection is

quintessential to today’s consumers. Discover

the latest addition to the collection, crafted in

lavish 9-carat gold and diamonds!

lacouronnejewellery.com.au

LJ West Diamonds and

Scott West Jewelry

LJ West Diamonds presents the Twin Hearts

of Australia – a 0.75-carat Fancy Red, and

0.78-carat Fancy Deep Bluish Violet heartshaped

diamond, accented by 4.94 carats of

white pear diamonds in the The Twin Hearts

Ring. The design is inspired by the Linnaea

flower and celebrates two rare diamonds,

separated at 'birth' – but destiny has brought

them back together forever.

ljwestdiamonds.com

Luminox

Duraflex Group Ausralia

For more than 20 years, Luminox has partnered

with maritime commandos to hone and refine

a watch tough enough for the world’s finest

warriors. Luminox is proud to announce the new

Navy SEAL 45mm Military Dive Watch XS.3508.

GOLD, sporting the proprietary Carbonox casing

and constant glow for up to 25 years.

luminox.com.au

76 | August 2021


2021 BUYING GUIDE | Christmas Ready

J.S. Landau Diamonds

This Swiss Blue topaz and diamond ring,

set in 9-carat white gold, epitomises

J.S. Landau Diamonds’ commitment

to the highest-quality diamond and

coloured gemstone jewellery. J.S.

Landau Diamonds’ exclusive range of

European-inspired designs includes

both contemporary and vintage styles.

jslandaudiamonds.com

JAG

Duraflex Group Australia

JAG originated in 1972 on Chapel Street

in Melbourne. Today, it is internationally

renowned as an iconic Australian brand.

The seasonal JAG fashion watch collections

offer an affordable range of models for

men and women, featuring casual and

timeless styles with an urban feel.

dgau.com.au/jag

Jewellery Centre

New to the Jewellery Centre’s collection,

these elegant pendants in rhodium-plated

sterling silver and hard rose gold-plate

feature cubic zirconia and are the perfect

addition to your range.

jewellerycentreaustralia.com


Christmas Ready | 2021 BUYING GUIDE

Mark McAskill Jewellery

markmcaskill.com.au

New to the Mark

McAskill Jewellery Estelle

Collection, this stunning

white gold dress ring

features a 9x7mm claw-set

aquamarine and a halo

of round and pear-cut

diamonds, with a fine

rounded band adding to the

modern feel of the design.

A new spin on a popular Mark

McAskill design, this yellow and white

gold dress ring features a central

6x5mm natural emerald and two

3mm emeralds top and bottom in

talon claw settings. A bead set oval

halo and split shoulders round out the

striking look of the piece.

Maserati

West End Collection

Technology changes, but the spirit of

Maserati remains unchanged. The

Traguardo, from the Hybrid Collection,

encloses all the dynamic performance

of a Maserati watch – and much

more. By connecting the watch to your

smartphone, you can monitor physical

activity as well as manage a large

number of apps and notifications.

maseratistore.com

Manufacturer of

High Quality Findings

Since 1975

9K, 10K, 14K, & 18K Gold

1/20 14K Gold Filled

Sterling Silver

TEL: 001.585.292.0770

sales@jkfindings.com

www.jkfindings.com

Mats Jonasson Maleras

Shillcombe

Mats Jonasson Maleras produces

Swedish crystal sculptures that are

handmade using casting, engraving

and hand-colouring techniques.

The brand is synonymous with

innovative design and artisan

traditions, available in a range

of sizes and themes including

birds and wildlife, art glass, bowls

and drinkware – the perfect

accompaniment to jewellery.

maleras.se/en


2021 BUYING GUIDE | Christmas Ready

Art Deco-inspired, this gorgeous

new pink tourmaline dress ring is a

worthy addition to Mark McAskill’s

Estelle Collection. The double claw

settings of the 7x5mm cushion-cut

centre gemstone add to the vintage

feel, while the 0.50-carat diamond

halo and shoulders provide a

stunning counterpoint.

Ceylon sapphires are sure to

delight as the newest addition to

the Pink Caviar Collection by Mark

McAskill Jewellery. This new double

halo dress ring features a 6x5mm

blue sapphire set in rose gold talon

claws, surrounded by bead-set

Australian Argyle pink diamonds.

Maurice Lacroix

West End Collection

Maurice Lacroix gives the

manufacturer’s ML234 calibre

its maiden voyage in the new

Swiss Skeleton Automatic

Watch. It is housed in Maurice

Lacroix’s classic wide Aikon

case, reshaped and redesigned

in order to enclose this new

type of movement.

mauricelacroix.com/ch_en

STERLING SILVER

SEMI-PRECIOUS STONES

FOR STOCKIST ENQUIRIES

+61 413 872 810

INFO@BIANC.COM.AU

@BIANC_JEWELLERY

WWW.BIANC.COM.AU


Christmas Ready | 2021 BUYING GUIDE

Mystery brand

SAMS Group Australia

Get ready for SAMS Group’s

exciting new brand launch! The

team has been working hard to

launch a brand that combines

exquisite luxury with a touch of

modernity. Every piece has been

carefully curated to create an

original design that speaks the

ultimate art of self-expression

and elegance. Watch this space!

samsgroup.com.au

Bear Grylls Survival

3720 Sea series

Proudly distributed by

Opals Australia

Opals Australia

showcases both loose

gemstones and gold and

silver Australian opal-set

jewellery. With more than

90 years of experience

and expertise in sourcing

our national gemstone,

Opals Australia provides

beautiful and unique

opals that reflect

Australia’s natural beauty.

opals-australia.com

02 9417 0177 | www.dgau.com.au

80 | August 2021


OR009SS

IP150EU-OK6

Nomination

Timesupply

Sparkling white crystal-set pendants enhance the beautiful

natural baroque freshwater pearls in the Whitedream

Fashion Jewellery Collection from Nomination, made in

Italy. Nomination is world leader in gold and stainless

steel jewellery, with collections that reflect the artisanal

craftsmanship and design that is synonymous with Italy.

nomination-jewellery.com.au

Palloys

Palloys is Australasia's premier jewellery

manufacturing and custom jewellery

service. From fabricated metals and

findings, to design, print, casting, refining,

diamonds, finishing services and finished

jewellery, it all comes together at Palloys.

palloys.com

OP006SS

OE006SS

OR008SS

LUXURY pearl AND opal JEWELLERY

+61 2 9266 0636

enquiries@ikecho.com.au

www.ikecho.com.au


Christmas Ready | 2021 BUYING GUIDE

Paterson Fine Jewellery

Introducing Paterson Fine

Jewellery’s new e-store

for trade customers. Order

bespoke designs in opals,

diamonds, gemstones and

personalised jewellery. Easy

to use, with 24/7 access, the

e-store also offers competitive

pricing, express delivery, and

a consignment box service.

Special offer for free delivery

also available for a limited time.

pfj.com.au

PDPAOLA

Heart & Grace

PDPAOLA began in Barcelona in 2014. Siblings

Paola and Humbert Sasplugas pursued their

dream of turning Paola’s childhood passion

for jewellery and design into a lifetime project.

Effortless elegance and timeless designs

create the PDPAOLA universe, with unique,

trend-setting jewellery and an aspirational

brand identity.

pdpaola.com

FIND US ON INSTAGRAM

MILLENNIUM_CHAIN

Australian leading wholesaler, specialising in manufacturing

9ct and 18ct yellow gold, rose gold and white gold.

Machine made and hand made, any kind, chains and bracelets,

bangles and findings. Suppliers to retailers and wholesalers.

MILLENNIUM CHAIN

P: 03 9650 5955 | E: sales@millenniumchain.com.au

www.millenniumchain.com.au


2021 BUYING GUIDE | Christmas Ready

Peter W Beck

pwbeck.com.au

These complimentary and stylish

double-sided displays will encourage

your customers to take advantage of

our unique complimentary engraving

offer, or our personalised Express

Yourself engraving services.

Peter W Beck has put

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The Original Comfort

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Peter W Beck has created a

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gold. Discover more in the

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Harper & Rowe sources only

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incorporate crystals, semiprecious

stones, sterling silver,

gold and leather.

Connect with us

@harperandrowe

harperandrowe.com.au

harperandrowe@gmail.com

Curators of extraordinary

Scandinavian design


Christmas Ready | 2021 BUYING GUIDE

Pink Kimberley

SAMS Group Australia

pinkkimberley.com.au

Picup Media

The GemLightbox, Turntable and Aerial set allows you to

capture all your jewellery with one easy solution! Trusted

by more than 10,000 jewellers worldwide, Picup Media

makes creating studio-quality product images and video

quicker and simpler than ever.

picupmedia.com

With breathtaking designs and

unsurpassed craftsmanship, Pink

Kimberley jewellery is inspired

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one-of-a-kind, every piece is the

ultimate showstopper and the

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Express yourself with the chic,

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Unique Incomparable Diamonds

Trade Discount Applies

saltandpepperdiamonds.com.au

sales@saltandpepperdiamonds.com.au


PolyWatch

The Battery Man

Instead of replacing the watch

crystal, why not repair it? The

process is simple and effective

using the polyWatch Glass

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diamond polish for all mineral

and sapphire glass watch crystals.

Remove small and medium

scratches with this all-inclusive

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applications.

thebatteryman.com.au

PFJ?

Quinn Sterling Silver Jewellery

Sarabol Trading

The best quality sterling silver jewellery on

the market, Quinn Sterling Silver Jewellery

offers dress rings and earrings, necklaces,

pendants and more, either plain or set with

a variety of gemstones. In addition, lapis

lazuli, onyx, and pearl pieces are available,

in combination with gold and stainless steel.

RAS

Timesupply

Added to the very popular Gingko

Collection from RAS Spain is this

handmade filigree wide cuff bangle.

Golden Gingko leaves wrap around

the wrist in this fine elegant design.

ras.es/en


2021 BUYING GUIDE | Christmas Ready

Qudo

Timesupply

Purple tones and shimmering

crystals feature in the new Qudo

ring tops. Add these beautiful

tops to the new Lecce crystal set

ring base for the ultimate ‘bling’

ring! They make an eye-catching

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qudojewellery.com.au

FALL IN

LOVE WITH

THE BLUES

RD Italian Jewellery

Make engagement ring consultations simple

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NEW CATALOGUE

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Christmas Ready | 2021 BUYING GUIDE


S E CUR E

E A RRI NG B ACK S

P r o u dly de sig n e d a n d

m a n u fac t u r e d in the U K

Reflex Active

Heart & Grace

The Series 3 smartwatch

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rose gold case and silver

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activity goals, step counter,

sleep tracking, calories,

alarm, and call and

message alerts.

reflex-active.com

S A F E

S ECU R E

NON-S LIP

H YPO-A LLERGE NIC

C OMFOR T ABLE

SAMS Group Australia

Renowned for their exuberant shades of

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SAMS Group Australia from the invitationonly

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samsgroup.com.au

Proudly distributed by

South Sea Pearls & Jewellery

South Sea Pearls & Jewellery stocks a full range

of loose pearls, mounts, studs, and jewellery,

including this 18-carat yellow gold set of shepherdhook

earrings, set with 10mm South Sea Pearls

and diamonds. Findings and matching pendant

with 13mm South Sea pearl available separately.

sspaj.com

02 9417 0177 | www.dgau.com.au


2021 BUYING GUIDE | Christmas Ready

DECLARATION - GOOD LUCK

Salt & Pepper Diamonds

The salt-and-pepper diamond trend has

proven very popular across social media

platforms and is now an accepted,

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ring option. Salt & Pepper Diamonds

specialises in these heavily-included

natural diamonds, which get their

name from the way the inclusions

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saltandpepperdiamonds.com.au

New to our signature

Declaration collection, the

horseshoe.

Stolen Girlfriends Club

Self-love, unconditional love, all

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Every piece tells a story and

inspires new ones.

www.fabuleuxvous.com

E: orders@fabuleuxvous.com

P: +64 274 203 137


Christmas Ready | 2021 BUYING GUIDE

The Battery Man

To celebrate its 40th

anniversary, The Battery

Man is offering great

deals, including on indemand

essentials such

as Seiko and Energizer

watch batteries.

thebatteryman.com.au

The Lux Collection

RJ Scanlan & Co.

In need of some high-quality European jewellery for

your store? Look no further than R J Scanlan & Co.’s

latest offering – the Lux Collection. Manufactured in

Germany, this stunning and comprehensive 750-piece

collection features gold, diamonds, coloured

gemstones and pearls. The diversity of this range

means there’s something for all budgets and tastes.

scanlanandco.com.au

Thomas Sabo

Duraflex Group Australia

The new Sterling Silver Jewellery

collection by Thomas Sabo features classic

silhouettes, vintage-style aesthetics,

archive updates and sparkling white

gemstones. Plus, personalise your jewellery

with engravable pendants and charms.

thomassabo.com.au

UNOde50

Timesupply

New to Australia and New Zealand, UNOde50’s

cutting edge designs offer something truly unique

and desirable. This gorgeous necklace set with

sparkling pink amethyst and teal crystals is a true

signature piece from the new Euphoria Collection.

unode50.com/as

Vina by Pinaroo

Create an everlasting feeling of protection

and celebration with this exquisite

ring. The dark pink cubic zirconia in

the centre is a splendid representation

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the sparkling white cubic zirconia

surrounding it add sparkle and joy.

unode50.com/as

90 | August 2021


Packamate Limited

Flat F, Block 2.,

12/F Kwun Tong Industrial Centre.

460-470 Kwun Tong Road, Hong Kong

Tel. +852 2603 1173 or 8121 1751

Email.info@packamate.com

packamate.com

One-stop shop packaging component supply and solution

Packamate Limited is a well-established manufacturer

and wholesaler of quality packaging for various

sectors such as jewellery, shopping bags, watches,

writing instruments, spectacles, beverage, electronic

devices, display, watch winder, cabinets, cosmetic,

jewellery collectors and wine collectors.


Christmas Ready | 2021 BUYING GUIDE

World Shiner

Alongside its extensive collection of white,

pink, yellow, and champagne diamonds,

World Shiner proudly introduces a new

range of Italian-made jewellery with

old-cut diamonds. The collection includes

rings, earrings and pendants.

worldshiner.com

Wolf 1834

Duraflex Group Australia

The British Racing Green Collection by

WOLF 1834 is a truly English collection of

watch winders, boxes and watch rolls. It

is ideal for passionate watch collectors,

travellers, and for safekeeping of your

treasured timepieces.

wolf1834.com

Worth & Douglas

Introducing the new Luv You Collection of

stackable rings, personalised with up to

three individual names and birthstones.

Available in all metal types, with synthetic

or semi-precious gemstones. The

in-store point of sale package includes

gold-plated samples on a display pad.

wdrings.com

ZETAGS

ZETAGS has released its new CloudTT

barcode software. For the first time, users

can print tags straight from Google Chrome

on both Windows and Mac computers. The

Lite version is free for ZETAGS customers

with a data-aware Pro version currently in

beta testing.

zetags.com

92 | August 2021


INTERNATIONAL

J E W ELLERY & WATCH FAIR

Organised by

jewelleryfair.com.au

ICC Sydney Exhibition Centre

Darling Harbour

Est. 1990


FEATURE INSIGHT

The New Consumer

MEET

GENERATION

Alpha

world domination|

ARABELLA RODEN examines

the next wave of consumers,

who are set to become the

largest generation in history

– with unprecedented

spending power.


FEATURE INSIGHT | The New Consumer

KEY TRAITS

Introducing

the Alphas

Digitally Integrated

Technology is interwoven

in every aspect of Alphas’

lives, from education to

leisure and socialising

T

he glass generation. Millennials on steroids.

Screenagers. Generation Alpha has been

called many things, but what cannot be

denied is the unprecedented power they will wield

when they come of age.

Born between 2010 and 2025, Generation Alpha are the

children of Millennials and the youngest Gen Xers, and the

younger siblings of Gen Z.

The name was coined by Australian social researcher Mark

McCrindle around 2005, referring to their status as the first

generation born entirely in the 21st Century.

In Australia today, Generation Alpha is aged between zero

and 10 years, numbering approximately 3 million people –

or 12.39 per cent of the population.

Globally, more than 2.7 million Generation Alphas are

born every week and by December 2024, there will be

approximately 2 billion worldwide, making them the largest

generation in history.

To put that figure in perspective, in just four years, they will

outnumber the Baby Boomers.

“Generation Alpha represent the future and provide a lens

through which we can look to the next decade and beyond,”

McCrindle and fellow social researcher Ashley Fell write in

their 2020 report Understanding Generation Alpha.

“While they currently populate our primary schools, over

the next decade the oldest will move through the teen

years to reach adulthood. But even still, these youngsters

are influencing their Millennial family purchasing and are

early adopters of technology.”

By the end of this decade, many Alphas will be working

and voting, as well as spending. Read on to discover how

Generation Alpha will shape the businesses of the future.

Who they are

McCrindle and Fell’s research predicts the Alphas will

live longer, work later into their lives, attain more formal

education – by 2050, they believe approximately 50 per cent

Connected and

diverse

Culturally and socially,

Alphas are more varied

and internationallyfocused

than their

predecessors

Parental ties

Alphas are particularly

close to their Millennial

and Gen X parents,

who influence and

inform their consumer

behaviour to a greater

degree than friends or

social media

Highly educated

Researchers predict

one in every two Alphas

will attain a university

qualification, increasing

their wealth and

knowledge

Powerful consumers

Already influencing

their parents’ spending,

Alphas will gain greater

material wealth and

consumer power with age

of Alphas will hold a university qualification – eventually

forming the “largest generation of middle-class

consumers our world has ever seen”.

The average life expectancy for Australian Alphas born

today is 80.9 years for males and 85 for females; in

1988, it was 73.1 for males and 79.5 for females.

This makes Generation Alpha the longest-lived of any

Australian generation.

However, McCrindle and Fell observe that the beginning

of the “adult life stage” – marked by marriage,

mortgage, and children – will be postponed even further

for Alphas than it has been for Millennials and Gen Z.

Globally, more than 2.7 million

Generation Alphas are born every

week and by December 2024,

there will be approximately

2 billion worldwide, making them

the largest generation in history”

“This generation will stay in education longer, start their

earning years later and so stay at home with their parents

for longer than was previously the case,” they write.

Alphas are also what the researchers term “upagers”

– social, psychological and commercial sophistication

sets in far earlier in childhood than in previous cohorts.

Put simply, Alphas are more aware of, and engaged

with, their surroundings at a younger age and become

consumers more quickly.

This is largely a result of their unprecedented global

connectivity through technology.

Indeed, the first Alphas were born the same year that

the Apple iPad and Instagram were launched, and

when ‘app’ was the word of the year, with McCrindle

and Fell calling them “part of an unintentional global

August 2021 | 95


C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

The New Consumer | FEATURE INSIGHT

2020.pdf 1 28/7/21 18:39

TABLE 1: CHANGING GENERATIONS - 2020

Today, Millennials are the largeset generation in Australia, followed by Baby

Boomers; Generation Alpha is set to overtake both by 2025.

2020: AUSTRALIAN POPULATION

Age 76 +

Other

7.1%

Age 0 - 9

Generation Alpha

12.4%

CHART A:

AUSTRALIA TODAY

The children of Millennials and the

youngest Gen Xers, Generation Alpha

comprises less than 13 per cent of

the population today.

As at 30 June 2020

% of Population

Generation Alpha Age 0-9 3,185,008 12.39%

Gen Z Age 10-24 4,798,451 18.67%

Age 55 - 75

Baby Boomer

20.9%

Age 10 - 24

Generation Z

18.7%

Millennial Age 25-39 5,664,798 22.04%

Gen X Age 40-54 4,860,961 18.92%

Baby Boomer Age 55-75 5,358,838 20.85%

Other Age 76+ 1,830,037 7.12%

TOTAL 25,698,093 100.00%

Age 40 - 55

Generation X

18.9%

Age 25 - 39

Millennial

22.0%

Source: Australian Bureau of Statistics

experiment where screens are placed in front of them

from the youngest age as pacifiers, entertainers and

educational aids”.

This immersion in technology will lead to what workplace

researcher Dan Schawbel terms “the entrepreneurial

generation”.

Writing about Generation Alpha in 2014, Schawbel –

managing partner of human resources advisory firm

Workplace Intelligence – predicted, “Every generation

from here on out will become more entrepreneurial than

the next, because they will have had more access to

information, people and resources earlier.

Put simply, Alphas are more

aware of, and engaged with, their

surroundings at a younger age

and become consumers more

quickly. This is largely a result

of their unprecedented global

connectivity through technology”

“We will see a lot of Alpha entrepreneurs starting

companies before 10 years old. As most will fail in their

business pursuits, they will learn a lot and have much

better luck as they get older.”

Schawbel adds, “They will be more successful

entrepreneurs because they will have taken more

risks earlier, and had time to build reputations and

relationships, before Millennials, Gen X and [Baby]

Boomers did.”

Indeed, the highest-earning YouTube ‘content creator’ in

2020 was nine-year-old Ryan Kaji, whose channel Ryan’s

World generated $US29.5 million ($AU40 million) in

advertising revenue, according to Forbes.

AT A GLANCE

By the

Numbers

2 billion

Total number

of Generation Alphas

born by 2025

Source: McCrindle

$US500b

Estimated annual

value of purchases in

the US influenced by

children under 12

Source: AdAge

72%

Of children aged six

to nine years old who

had heard of Amazon

Source: Wunderman

Thompson Commerce

survey of 4,000 children

Kaji, under the supervision of his parents, has been

making “unboxing” videos – unwrapping toys and

reviewing them – since 2015 and now boasts his own

line of branded children’s products, including backpacks

and toothpaste, that is stocked by US retailers including

Target, Walmart, and Amazon.

Another Alpha, seven-year-old Anastasia ‘Nastya’

Radzinskaya, was the only female in the top 10 highestearning

YouTube content creators of the past year; her

channels generated $US18.5 million ($AU25 million).

Both Ryan and Nastya boast global audiences, and indeed

their fellow Alphas are more internationally-oriented and

culturally diverse than previous generations.

How they shop

While their vast numbers and material wealth will make

these consumers attractive for businesses in the future,

their influence – even now, as young children – cannot

be denied.

According to US publication AdAge, 81 per cent of Alpha

kids “significantly influence family purchases”, with

children under the age of 12 influencing purchases

valued at $US500 billion ($AU678.3 billion) per year.

However, this influence relationship goes both ways, with

Schawbel noting Alphas are being raised by older, more

indulgent parents: “[Alphas] will be extremely coddled

and influenced by their Gen X and Y parents.

“Every generation is now more influenced by their

parents – more than friends, strangers, etcetera. Gen

Alpha will be no different, so if you want to sell to them

or hire them, their parents should be part of your

marketing campaign.”

While incredibly technologically literate, Generation

Alpha also has a shorter attention span and has been

exposed to digital advertising almost since birth.

Unable to remember an era before social networking,

Alphas prefer shopping and communication via

mobile phones.

96 | August 2021


FEATURE INSIGHT | The New Consumer

TABLE 2: CHANGING GENERATIONS - 2050

In 30 years, Generation Alpha will number more than 6 million people.

2050: AUSTRALIAN POPULATION PROJECTION

As at 1 July 2050

% of Population

Generation Gamma Age 0-9 3,666,132 11.17%

Generation Beta Age 10-24 5,666,535 17.27%

Generation Alpha Age 25-39 6,342,754 19.33%

Gen Z Age 40-54 5,798,890 17.67%

Millennial Age 55-69 5,664,595 17.26%

Gen X Age 70-84 4,123,878 12.57%

Generation X

12.6%

Age 55 - 69

Millennial

17.3%

Age 70 - 84

Baby Boomers

Age 85+

4.7%

Age 0 - 9

Generation

Gamma

11.2%

Age 10 - 24

Generation

Beta

17.3%

CHART B:

AUSTRALIA TOMORROW

Alphas are on top in 2050, followed

by their older and younger siblings –

Generation Z and Generation Beta –

and their parents, the Millennials.

Baby Boomers Age 85+ 1,551,321 4.73%

TOTAL 32,814,105 100.00%

Source: World Population Prospects: The 2019 Revision – United Nations

Department of Economic and Social Affairs, World Population Division

Age 40 - 54

Generation Z

17.7%

Age 25 - 39

Generation Alpha

19.3%

They respond to simple, visual information that is

customised to their needs, with McCrindle and Fell

observing that Generation Alpha has also been

“shaped in an era of individualisation and customisation

where they can get their name printed into the

storyline of books, embroidered onto their shirts

or put on a jar of Nutella”.

In 2015, US thinktank the Pew Research Center found

that 81 per cent of parents with children aged five and

under said their kids watched videos or played games on

an electronic device on a daily basis.

Today, many are influenced

by social media stars to make

purchases; of consumers aged

between six and 12 years, a quarter

cite social media content creators

as the primary influence on

their purchasing”

Today, many are influenced by social media stars to

make purchases; of consumers aged between six and

12 years, a quarter cite social media content creators –

operating on platforms such as Instagram, YouTube, and

Snapchat – as the primary influence on their purchasing.

This places them only slightly behind friends, according

to a 2019 report by UK market research firm Wunderman

Thompson Commerce (WTC).

“Young people today are being influenced by a wider

range of factors than ever before and more of these

factors are external,” the report – based on a survey of

4,000 children aged between six and 16 in the US and

UK – stated.

“We’ve moved far beyond the bus and the playground.

Now, children are influenced by social media platforms,

“I’M NOT A FAN”

Turn-offs

Lack of values

Alphas are likely to be

even more conscientious

consumers than Gen Z;

they will not shop from

businesses that are

misaligned with their

own values, or lack

an identity

Poor service

Personalised, ultraconvenient,

omnichannel

shopping is the minimum

for Alphas, who are spoilt

for choice and more

demanding of retailers

than their predecessors

Slow delivery

Growing up with

e-commerce, Alphas

already expect their items

to be delivered 25 per cent

faster than their parents–

two days is the maximum

Unsustainable

models

Environmental protection

is a key concern for

Alphas; they will

favour businesses with

recyclable packaging

and materials, low-waste

operations, and carbonneutral

policies

programmatic advertising and on-demand TV. This

means that brands need to be across multiple channels

– and more importantly, the right channels – to ensure

they’re finding their target audience.”

WTC’s research found that Alphas tend to mirror their

parents in terms of shopping method – “If their mum

and dad purchase online, so will they” – and are invested

in the “emotional rollercoaster of delivery [of online

shopping] and expect not to have to wait”.

This provides a clear signal to retailers to invest in order

fulfilment and logistics for their e-commerce offering.

The report noted that approximately 49 per cent of the

US children surveyed had access to an Amazon account

– compared with 42 per cent of UK children – and 72 per

cent of children aged six to nine had heard of Amazon.

However, the report emphasises that Alphas aren’t ready

to abandon bricks-and-mortar retail.

As Naji El-Arifi, head of innovation at Wunderman

Thompson Commerce, notes, “Technology – and the

convenience and exciting experiences it can offer – is

clearly at the heart of Alphas’ visions for the future of

shopping. But at the same time, it’s interesting that the

majority of children want to see online channels work

alongside physical stores, and indeed better alignment

between the two.

“These findings underline the need for retailers to take

a truly omnichannel approach to engaging with the

next generation of shoppers, and be ready to use new

technologies not simply to replace the physical store but

to complement it,” El-Arifi adds.

While the age of Generation Alpha may seem far in the

future, the pace of technological change in our modern

world creates a need for ever-earlier anticipation; and

with these tech-savvy tykes already forming consumer

habits, it’s up to retailers and business owners to

capture the next great generation – before they even

begin shopping.

In the world of retail, forewarned is fore-armed.

August 2021 | 97


BUSINESS

Strategy

Modern marketing:

A new paradigm for success

With the rapid pace of technological change and increasingly savvy consumers,

DENYSE DRUMMOND-DUNN reveals the key to adapting your marketing strategy for today’s world.

Marketing may seem like a modern

phenomenon, but in reality it is an old

profession. For as long as people have

been selling products and services in a

free market, marketing has existed in

some form or another.

It became more formalised in the 20th

Century, in which it has also undergone

the most rapid phase of its evolution.

In the early ’80s, many companies began

to take a serious look at their marketing in

a strategic manner.

They realised that their primarily

‘outbound’ strategy – traditional marketing

that seeks to push messages out to

potential customers, via methods such

as cold-calling – had to change, because

consumers didn’t appreciate being

interrupted in their daily lives.

‘Inbound’ marketing was then developed,

largely alongside the Internet, focusing

on attracting, engaging and delighting

consumers.

However, marketers discovered customers

were still irritated by some inbound

marketing techniques, such as pop-up

ads and cookies following their every move

online. So, how can businesses keep up

with consumers as marketing evolves?

The customer is always right

What has changed over the past five years

is marketing’s deeper awareness of, if not

complete adherence to, what customers

like and dislike.

The major trends that we have seen and

their impact on marketing, include:

• Adding chatbots – The likes of

Facebook Messenger and WhatsApp allow

businesses to catch consumers on the go

with highly personalised messaging

• Voice-recognition and voice-search

technology – Products such as Google

Home and Amazon Alexa allow customers

to find what they want simply by asking;

however it is a huge challenge for

businesses because these services only

give the first search engine result

• The rise of video – Video content

has taken over social media, with apps like

TikTok influencing the development

of other platforms such as Instagram

and Facebook

Progressive

companies have

realised that to

satisfy today’s

consumer they

must move

toward what I

term, ‘customercentricity’;

putting

customers at the

heart of their

business

• Journey mapping overtakes influencer

marketing – With the increasingly

detailed data available from devices, many

businesses have shifted their marketing

plans to mirror their customers’ paths to

purchase, which are largely through online

means rather than referrals from their

‘influencer’ groups, such as family

• Zero-party data – Businesses have

bypassed the need for passive data

collection from social media apps and are

instead increasing their direct engagement

with customers through social media

polls, quizzes and competitions

Satisfaction guaranteed?

In the past decade or so, conglomerates

such as Procter & Gamble and Nestlé,

renamed their marketing staff ‘brand

builders’, in the hope of adapting to this

new world.

They failed, miserably.

The reason is that despite changing the

name, they continued to market in the

same way. With very few exceptions,

communication was still all about the

brand, rather than its customers.

98 | August 2021


Business Strategy

More progressive companies have realised

that to satisfy today’s consumer they must

move toward what I term, ‘customercentricity’;

putting customers at the heart

of their business.

People understand a lot more about

marketing than we give them credit for –

and certainly, a lot more than they did just

a few years ago.

Firstly, they know that companies have

marketing plans and regular promotions,

so they wait for sales or coupon discounts

before purchasing.

They also realise that in today’s world,

products have become increasingly

similar; the format, colour or perfume

may be different, but the performance is

comparable – therefore, customer loyalty

is a rare commodity!

Today’s consumers are far more likely to

have a portfolio of brands in each category

from which they choose, rather than one.

And finally, they have come to expect

constant innovation, and quickly adapt to

once-novel ideas before searching for the

next improvement.

Indeed, according to Accenture’s

Customer 2020: Are You Future-Ready or

Reliving the Past? report, nearly half of

consumers say that they are more likely

to switch brands now than 10 years ago.

The COVID-19 factor

Just as brands were adapting to the new

savvy consumer, along came COVID-19

and with it another dramatic change in

consumer behaviours.

The McKinsey report Reimagining

Marketing in the Next Normal observed

six potentially important changes in

consumer behaviour as a result of

the pandemic.

Some are an acceleration of existing

trends, while others are newly emerging:

• Shopping – there has been a marked

acceleration in consumers turning to

digital and reduced-contact ways of

accessing products and services;

this trend is particularly pronounced

in Millennials, Gen Z, and higherincome

consumers

• E-services – consumers are

embracing online service platforms,

which presents opportunities for

new marketing strategies and

cross-promotions

• Home – consumers are searching

for ways to integrate all aspects of life

into their home, from work to exercise

and more; therefore marketing via homebased

devices such as Alexa and Google

Home is becoming more important

• Community – experiences are

increasingly localised, which gives small

businesses an edge when it comes to

marketing to nearby shoppers

• Trust – safety is top-of-mind for

consumers, with many likely to return

to regular bricks-and-mortar shopping

only when they can trust that spaces are

hygienic and/or touch-free

• Purpose – consumers are holding

companies to higher standards; if

businesses decide to undertake sociallyconscious

marketing or promotions, they

must be ‘backed up’ with real action

To summarise, it appears that people

have come to the realisation that they

have more control than before, with

higher expectations.

Given these trends, customer-centricity

the only viable strategy – and marketing

needs to adapt to it.

The customer-centric test

Companies that place the customer

at the heart of their business are easy

to recognise. Their websites are filled

with useful, accessible information,

entertaining content, and their contact

pages are detailed.

These businesses also involve and seek

advice from their customers, and their

packaging is user-friendly, with products

and services that are easy to find and buy.

Their advertising also usually presents the

customer – not the brand – as the hero.

In every aspect of a customer-centric

organisation, the customer clearly drives

each and every decision.

With this in mind, here are some essential

A FRESH

APPROACH

Deeper

insights

Engage with

customers to

learn more

about them and

understand

how they buy

Tech's appeal

Chatbots,

voice-search

devices, and

video content

are powerful

marketing tools

Raise the bar

Review your

sales channels

– website, store,

and social

media – from

a customer’s

perspective and

optimise them

for convenience

first steps to adopt a customercentric

strategy:

• Make customers visible – Place

pictures of your prospective customers

everywhere so staff start to naturally think

about them

• Validate customers – Whenever a

decision is made, ask “What would our

customers think about this?”

This step helps businesses avoid practices

that customers perceive as ‘cheating’,

such as taking credit card details for a free

trial, in the hope that the customer will

forget and be automatically charged later

• Review your website – Take a closer

look at the language used on your website;

if there are more “we’s” than “you’s” then

you know what to do!

Assess the site from a customer’s

perspective – is everything useful?

• Update personas – Customer

personas, also known as avatars, are

frequently used in marketing plans to

create a simple reference for the target

segments or demographics.

Refresh yours to reflect new trends

• Examine your advertising – Consider

developing creative concepts that make

use of your customers’ experiences and

their emotional triggers

• Get connected – Spend time with frontline

staff and customers, whether online

or in-store, to learn more about the people

who buy your products and discover new

opportunities for marketing to them

• Focus on employees – Share customer

insights with staff and communicate with

each employee so they understand the role

they play in satisfying customers. Make

them ‘fans’ of your customers

These are your starter tasks for evolving

your marketing towards a customer-first

strategy. So what are you waiting for?

DENYSE DRUMMOND-DUNN has

more than 30 years’ management

experience. She runs C3Centricity

consultancy. Visit: c3centricity.com

August 2021 | 99


BUSINESS

Selling

Kickstarting sales in the new financial year

The new financial year represents a fresh start for sales teams, writes SUE BARRETT,

who advises the best ways to capitalise on this time and ensure success in the months to come.

Let’s get straight to the point – things

have changed dramatically as a result

of COVID-19, with new opportunities and

markets emerging, old ways of operating

in decline, leaders and staff needing

to rethink processes, and customers

trying out different ways of buying and

engaging with businesses.

With that in mind, here are seven

strategies business owners can

implement to improve and sustain sales

this financial year – and beyond.

Review your sales strategy

If you have a sales strategy in place that

was developed more than 18 months

ago, it’s time to review it; if you don’t

have a sales strategy in place, it’s time

to develop one.

This process provides the best starting

place to allow leaders and sales teams

explore and tackle sales challenges and

opportunities, giving clarity on what

strategic and tactical moves to make,

how to structure sales efforts, and

guidance to plan the next steps through

the crisis.

Businesses that fail to develop sales

strategies and re-think the way they sell

and operate are likely to find continued

pressure on price and margins, coupled

with diminishing sales volumes,

decreased competitive advantage and

potential obsolescence.

Undertake market segmentation

Are your traditional markets, pre-COVID,

still your best option?

Maybe it’s time to explore what other

opportunities have emerged with the

changes of the past 18 months.

Consider undertaking a sales

segmentation questionnaire and

workshop to assist in identifying the

right segments, sub-segments, and even

micro-segments for your business.

By taking a more three-dimensional view

of market segments, we can unearth

deeper insights that can be used to

Now is an ideal time to reassess strategies, goals, and staff training.

focus on the most productive areas and

eliminate unnecessary effort.

Harness the power of customer service

Your business’ customer service staff

can also be its best sales team, given the

right training.

There’s an oft-quoted statistic that

approximately 65 per vent of a business’

sales come from repeat customers.

Though this percentage varies between

industries and according to business

size, it is still a significant proportion

– and most of those sales are realised by

customer service teams, not sales teams.

From experience, when customer service

staff are advised on the business’ sales

strategy and how to identify opportunities,

then both customer satisfaction and sales

can improve dramatically.

Assess your staff

Start the new financial year by

assessing sales and customer

service staff’s strengths and

weaknesses so you know which type

of training to provide.

Start running regular remote small

group training sessions to practise and

implement how to communicate, engage

with, and sell to customers.

You can do this on its own, or back it up

Businesses that

fail to develop

sales strategies

and re-think

the way they

sell and operate

are likely to

find continued

pressure on

price and

margins,

coupled with

diminishing

sales volumes

with an online sales curriculum that

people can go through at their own pace.

Implement online training

Learning through live webinars, Zoom

workshops and online training works.

Now content, delivery, and methodology

need to follow.

People can’t stay focused on a screen

training for a full day, so workshops are

best kept to two or three hours depending

on the size of the group and how

interactive the session needs to be.

Instead of one eight-hour day, split

training into segments over a number of

days or weeks.

A fragmented program improves learning

by breaking information into ‘bite-sized

chunks’, with the opportunity for learners

to practice in-between sessions.

While at first glance it might appear that

a fragmented training program requires

more time and effort, online learning

means the travel time is zero and there is

less disruption to the workday.

Training can also be initiated on short

notice to cover urgent topics, which this

crisis has taught us is critical!

This is a unique chance to update the

overall approach, improve learning

outcomes, training efficiency, and overall

staff retention and satisfaction around

their development opportunities.

Set a challenge

When all staff are clear about the

sales strategy, target markets, what

you’re selling to whom, and your value

proposition, and is equipped with skills,

tools and knowledge, set a 28-day group

and individual challenge to help embed

these new techniques and turn them into

productive sales habits.

SUE BARRETT is founder and CEO of

innovative and forward-thinking sales

advisory and education firm Barrett.

Learn more: barrett.com.au

100 | August 2021


BUSINESS

Management

The joy of business:

How to get more pleasure from your work

With a quarter of business owners unhappy at work, DAVID BROWN provides

advice on reducing stress, improving well-being and increasing productivity.

The average is person estimated to

spend almost around 90,000 hours

– or 30 per cent – of their life engaged

in paid employment.

That’s a lot of time to spend on something

that doesn’t provide pleasure and yet

statistics show a significant proportion

of employees and business owners don’t

enjoy what they do.

Data from Small Business Trends – an

online hub for entrepreneurs, business

owners and experts – shows that around

25 per cent of business owners, or one in

four, don’t love what they do.

That’s a worrying statistic where

performance is so closely related to

enjoyment and motivation.

Often the source of our unhappiness is

related to our expectations of the job, as

much as the job itself.

If you are one of the unfortunate business

owners who takes no joy in the job, there

are several things that you can do that will

make the experience more pleasurable

and lead to greater satisfaction.

• Learn to accept imperfections – We

can be our own worst taskmasters at

times and one of the biggest causes of

frustration is to expect perfection from

ourselves and from others.

No matter how hard you try, things will

never be done exactly the way you want

them every single time – even when

you’re doing the task yourself!

• Roll with the punches – Leading on

from the expectation of perfection is

another lesson: when things go wrong,

sometimes it pays to simply accept it.

Many of us are familiar with the Serenity

Prayer, which was first composed during

the Great Depression. It reads, “Grant

me the serenity to accept the things

I cannot change, courage to change

the things I can, and the wisdom to

know the difference.”

Too frequently, we focus on the things

that go wrong in a day instead of taking

Prioritise your wellbeing at work to achieve better results.

the time to be grateful for the things that

go right.

• Keep things in perspective – Small

problems, particularly when we are

stressed, can be blown out of proportion

in our minds.

It’s all easy to lose perspective when a

sudden ‘emergency’ appears, but most of

today’s problems won’t exist in a week’s

time – and won’t even be remembered

three months later!

When a ‘major disaster’ breaks out,

ask yourself, “Will this still be an issue

next week?”

If the answer is no, then don’t give it more

‘emotional bandwidth’ than it deserves.

• Start the day positively – Increasing

your enjoyment of your job can be as

simple as having a positive mind-set.

Our frame of mind dictates how we

respond to challenges.

Many people find it helps to begin each

morning with a walk, meditation or

reading from an inspiring book.

• Set clear objectives – A large source

of frustration for business owners is

failing to achieve daily objectives or

complete tasks, but an even greater

source of aggravation can come from not

having any objectives in the first place.

Performance

is so closely

related to

enjoyment and

motivation.

Often the

source of our

unhappiness is

related to our

expectations of

the job, as much

as the job itself

Therefore, it’s important to clarify what

you expect from each day.

Have at least one thing that absolutely

must be done on each day’s agenda so

that no matter what happens, you can feel

a sense of achievement.

• Take a break – Productivity is lost

the longer you go on without pausing to

recharge the batteries. This is not only

true during the day, when several breaks

are necessary, but longer term when it

comes to taking holidays.

Many business owners feel their

business can’t survive without them,

but too often this is a misconception

and results in exhaustion and lower

levels of job satisfaction.

An absence of balance between work

and relaxation can also lead to full-scale

burnout, which will force you to be absent

from your business anyway!

In order to escape your business from

time to time, you need to ensure your

staff are equipped to cope without you.

• Delegate, delegate, delegate – I have

spoken to many business owners over the

years who won’t leave their business for

more than a day at a time for fear there

will be nothing left when they return.

This says more about them than their

employees or the business itself!

Effective empowerment and delegation

frees up the owner to focus on the bigpicture

tasks and strategy, as well as

giving them time to ‘smell the roses’ and

truly enjoy what they do.

Ultimately, the happier you are at

work, the more productive you will be.

Even implementing a few of the above

strategies is likely to improve your mindset,

reduce stress, and assist you in

achieving your potential.

DAVID BROWN is co-founder

and business mentor with Retail

Edge Consultants. Learn more:

retailedgeconsultants.com

August 2021 | 101


BUSINESS

Marketing & PR

Six lessons business owners can learn from Netflix

STEVEN VAN BELLEGHEM explores how streaming service Netflix has found enduring

success through its rigorous focus on customer experience and satisfaction.

Founded in 1997, Netflix is considered

quite old by technology-firm standards,

but it has been able to reinvent itself

several times since then – evolving from

a DVD mailing service to a streaming

service and then a production studio.

Today, it is the ‘king’ of frictionless,

tailored and joyful customer experience,

which businesses across many different

industries can emulate.

Take your product very seriously

Netflix has identified entertainment as a

human need, which feels extra relevant in

these lockdown-filled times.

It describes its mission thusly,

“Entertainment, like friendship, is a

fundamental human need; it changes how

we feel and gives us common ground.

We want to entertain the world. If we

succeed, there is more laughter, more

empathy, and more joy.

“We want to entertain the world.”

How’s that for an ambitious mission?

Know what you sell

At the same time, Netflix management

realises that on a deeper level, they

actually sell attention rather than

entertainment. The company does not

only compete with other streaming

services, but also with anything that takes

consumers away from its service, such as

video games.

This has tremendous repercussions;

Netflix must constantly battle for

attention, and therefore has no other

choice but to offer the absolute highestquality

experiences and products.

Measure, test and repeat

The Netflix model means being obsessed

with customers.

Gibson Biddle, former vice-president of

product at Netflix, has said, “At Netflix, the

customer is constantly under scrutiny –

not just through analysing personal profile

data to better recommend the right movies

and series, but just as much through focus

Extensive consumer research is just one facet of Netflix’s competitive edge.

groups, usability sessions, one-on-ones

and demographic or cancel surveys and

then A/B testing the assumptions that flow

out of these inputs.”

Netflix refers to this process as

‘consumer science’, which is the driver

behind their ultra-tailored experience and

it’s also the reason why in-house content

– such as Black Mirror and The Queen’s

Gambit – is so popular.

As CEO Reed Hastings says, “If the

Starbucks secret is a smile when you get

your latte, [Netflix’s secret] is that the

website adapts to the individual’s taste.”

Focus on joy

Alongside consumer science, Netflix also

places emphasis on customer service.

In addition to a wide range of self-help

solutions, English live support is available

24 hours a day through live chat or phone.

Customer service also focuses on joy

instead of second-guessing the customer.

A recent example was of a Netflix

subscriber who was watching a series

and noticed the sound was garbled at one

point. Unprompted, Netflix sent an email

the next day with a small credit to be

applied to their account, as an apologetic

gesture for the disruption.

This is customer service done right; if

something goes wrong, don’t wait for the

Netflix must

constantly

battle for

attention, and

therefore has

no other choice

but to offer

the absolute

highest-quality

experiences

and products

customer to call to fix it; fix it before that,

and make them feel good in doing so.

Remove friction and frustration

When Netflix started as a video rental

service, Hastings was obsessed with

“making the movie experience so much

better than the regular video rental, that

everyone wants to do it.”

Its strategy eliminated:

• Going to the video store – Netflix

mailed DVDs to its subscribers

• Product selection – The business was

able to offer a wider range of titles and

had more copies in stock than a standard

video store

• Late fees – A monthly subscription

removed late fees and lowered prices

Following on from its first iteration,

Netflix reviewed its customer journey and

foresaw that streaming could easily solve

all frustrations even better.

Happy staff make happy customers

Though not all great customer

experiences are rooted in great employee

experiences – see Amazon warehouses

– Netflix views employee happiness as a

competitive advantage.

The company has stated on its website,

“We have great people working together

as a dream team. With this approach,

we are a more flexible, fun, stimulating,

creative, collaborative and successful

organisation.”

Not only is this smart ‘branding’ – making

Netflix an attractive place to work for

talented potential employees – but it also

fosters an innovative environment where

the focus is on continuously improving for

the benefit of customers.

STEVEN VAN BELLEGHEM is a

business consultant and keynote

speaker, specialising in customer

experience and the future of marketing.

Visit: stevenvanbelleghem.com

102 | August 2021


BUSINESS

Logged On

How to use Instagram Shopping to increase your

e-commerce sales: Part II

In part two of this series on Instagram Shopping, SIMON DELL provides a step-by-step

guide to setting up an Instagram Shop to best benefit your business.

Part one of this series explored the benefits

of embracing the Instagram Shopping

feature; now, let’s take a look at how to set

up an Instagram Shop.

Before we begin, business owners should

note that they will need to comply with

Instagram’s commercial policies, including

that only physical items can be sold;

services – such as repairs or remakes –

can’t be sold via an Instagram Shop.

It can take a little bit of time, but this stepby-step

guide makes it easy to get started.

Step 1: Open a Facebook Shop

Facebook owns Instagram, so business

owners will need to create a Facebook Shop

before they can establish one on Instagram.

If you’ve already got a Facebook Shop with a

catalogue of products ready to go, you can

skip this step!

Otherwise, there are two options for setting

up a Facebook Shop:

• Set up a Facebook Shop from scratch

through a Facebook account

• Set up a Shopify e-commerce store, and

sync it to Facebook

It is strongly recommended to select the

second option. Firstly, chances are you’ve

already got an e-commerce website. If

that’s the case, you don’t want to manage

two separate stores.

If you choose to start a Shopify store and

sync it to Facebook and Instagram, you’ll

only need to update one platform; any

products you add will automatically go

across to the two social platforms!

Secondly, a standalone Facebook Shop

doesn’t have all the great features that

a dedicated e-commerce service provides.

Step 2: Switch to a business profile

Before you can create an Instagram Shop,

ensure your Instagram account is set as a

business profile.

This is allows you to access tools like ads,

action buttons and some analytics, so it

is worth doing even if you do not create

Setting up an Instagram Shop is a quick and simple process.

a Shop. Simply go to Settings, click

‘Account’, and then choose ‘Switch to

Business Profile’.

Then, you will need to make sure your

Instagram business profile is linked to

your Facebook page.

Go to Instagram Settings, click ‘Account’,

and then choose ‘Linked Accounts’. Enter

your Facebook details, and you’re done.

Step 3: Add your product catalogue

If you are using a standalone Facebook

Shop without Shopify – or have already

linked your Shopify store to Facebook

Shop – skip ahead to Step 4.

Instagram Shopping ‘pulls’ your product

catalogue from your Facebook Shop,

which means that if you are using Shopify,

you must link it to Facebook:

• Go to your Shopify dashboard, and look

for the left-hand sidebar menu

• Click the plus icon next to ‘Sales

Channel’

• Click the Facebook option, and enter

your Facebook details as required

• Go back to your Shopify dashboard,

and look for the left-hand sidebar menu

• Click on ‘Products’

• Highlight the products you want on

your Facebook Shop (or ‘Select all’)

There’s never

been a better

time to embrace

Instagram

Shopping and

harness this

powerful sales

channel

• Click ‘Make Products Available’ and

select ‘Facebook’

Even though your Instagram Shop can’t

link directly to Shopify, you still need to let

Shopify know that you’ll be using Instagram

as a sales channel.

• Go to your Shopify dashboard and click

the plus icon next to ‘Sales Channel’ on the

left-hand sidebar menu

• Click the Instagram option, and enter

your Instagram details as required

Step 4: Wait for approval

At this point, Instagram will review your

account to ensure everything is in order.

This process can take a few days, so don’t

panic if you don’t get approved instantly.

When you’re approved, you’ll get a

notification from Instagram that you can

begin tagging products in your posts.

Step 5: Connect accounts and tag products

The final step is ‘telling’ Instagram which

Facebook Shop you want connected to

your profile. Either click the ‘Get Started’

button on your approval notification or go

to your Instagram Business Settings, click

‘Shopping’, and select Facebook Shop.

All the products on your Facebook Shop

should now be synced with Instagram, and

you can begin tagging products in posts.

Instagram allows you to tag up to 5 in a

single post, or 20 per carousel.

You’ll see an option to ‘Tag Products’ right

below where you would normally ‘Tag

People’, so it’s as easy as that! You can also

tag your products in Instagram Live.

Following the steps in this simple guide,

there’s never been a better time to embrace

Instagram Shopping and harness this

powerful sales channel.

SIMON DELL is co-founder and CEO

of Cemoh, a Brisbane-based firm that

provides marketing staff on demand.

He specialises in digital marketing and

brand management. Visit: cemoh.com

August 2021 | 103


My Bench

Andy McGee

Stelios Jewellers, Perth WA

Age 48 • Years in Trade 34 • Training 7-year apprenticeship to obtain New Zealand Technical Certificate in Metalsmithing and Jewellery • First job After-school

engraver at Skelts Jewellers in Invercargill, New Zealand in 1987 • Other Qualifications De Beers diamond qualifications, and 34 years of on-the-job training!

SIGNATURE PIECE

‘LUGGER’ BROOCH

STOCK PIECE

I made this piece 15 years ago and it is one of my absolute

favourites. It is entirely handmade using 18-carat white and

yellow gold, platinum and titanium, and set with diamonds and

Australian South Sea pearls. It is named ‘Lugger’ after the sailing

vessel you can see in the design.

4FAVOURITE GEMSTONE Erongo tourmaline from

Namibia due to the fusion of colours that seamlessly

change and transition through the gem, and Argyle

pink diamonds! The more I have worked with them

over the years, the greater my appreciation of their

colour spectrum. It never ceases to amaze!

4FAVOURITE METAL 18-carat yellow gold because

I don’t have to rhodium-plate it. It’s such a refreshing

change too as the decade has been dominated by

white metals.

4FAVOURITE TOOL Foredom Brushless

Micromotor. I have used it nearly every day for 14

years and have only ever had to replace one collet!

4BEST NEW TOOL DISCOVERY My 65mm saw

frame with polishing ribbons. With the world of CAD

today there really aren’t too many places you can’t

polish with this bad boy.

4BEST TIP FROM A JEWELLER At the end of the day,

jewellery is the winner!

4BEST TIP TO A JEWELLER It’s not too late to learn

to lay bricks!

4BEST PART OF THE JOB Being able to sit with

a customer, source and select the gemstones with

them, and then turn the two-dimensional design

into a 3D art piece to be adored – and adorned – for

generations to come.

4WORST PART OF THE JOB Not having a gold and

diamond mine in my backyard to make everything

less expensive to meet customer’s expectations!

Also, having to re-educate customers who have been

blatantly misinformed by poorly-trained sales staff.

4BIGGEST HEALTH CONCERN ON THE BENCH The

average life expectancy of a jeweller in the early 1900s

was 42, I’m on borrowed time daily.

4LOVE JEWELLERY BECAUSE Every day is different,

every customer is unique, and every piece has its own

unique challenges. Plus, the amazing friends I have

made in the industry over the years and the fact my

work will stay ‘alive’ long after I am gone.

104 | August 2021


OPINION

Soapbox

Understanding how young

consumers buy jewellery

RYAN PURDIE-SMITH discusses why jewellery retailers should put their customers

first – particularly if they plan to appeal to younger shoppers.

In my first few months in the jewellery

industry, I was genuinely shocked at how

a good portion of jewellers spoke about

and treated their customers.

Being part of a few online jewellery

groups and pages, I would hear so much

jaded complaining on a daily basis – an

‘us-versus-them’ mentality with no

intention of retaining or building customer

life-time value (LTV).

Many jewellers had a transactional approach

to each customer, with a focus on shortterm

margins and little to none on branding.

Coming from a business background,

rather than through the ranks as a trained

bench jeweller, gave me a different

perspective and allowed my jewellery

business, Crooked Howlet Designs (CHD),

not to be stifled by standard practices or

archaic ways of thinking.

In a way, there was a competitive advantage

to being blissfully ignorant about how things

‘should’ be done, and instead seeking out

best practices. For example, I was – and still

am – completely bewildered by jewellers

who charge for finger sizing tools.

It is absolutely mind-blowing that large,

engagement ring-focused jewellery brands

– many here in Sydney, where my business

is based – will charge $5 for a finger sizer

to be sent to a potential purchaser of a

$15,000 ring!

This puts up an unnecessary psychological

barrier-to-purchase for the customer.

Instead, we send out two free finger sizers to

potential customers, with a note to ‘gift one

on’. The finger sizers are branded and have

scannable QR codes that collect data about

the potential customer.

We also offer free re-sizing and go above

and beyond to leave the customer happy

on the first purchase, even if that first

order is a net loss, because a strong LTV –

repeat purchasing over time – is the most

important factor.

In the first years of the business, we

also invested heavily in creating a ‘brand

personality’. We focused on building trust

with our customers and establishing a brand

that provides value outside jewellery.

Social media has not only not only provided

an amazing opportunity to create this

personality and reach a new audience, but it

also has an accessibility and personal touch.

Taking a closer look at our customers led to

another key realisation: why they purchase

from us, and therefore how we should

position ourselves in a marketing sense.

Young consumers need to be able to ‘see

themselves’ in a brand today – especially

for high-ticket items or purchases that

hold emotive significance, like jewellery.

They need to feel connected to the brand’s

personality, or to the attributes associated

with the business’ founder.

This has led to the development of our

‘brand mission’, which is to provide a blank

canvas for experiences, and to give our

jewellery purpose and a legacy. In fact, I

would never say that we are in the jewellery

industry – we are in the experience industry.

Here are some of the tactics we’ve

implemented to achieve our brand mission:

• The CHD Ring Library, which is an

archive recording every single one of our

pieces. It is housed in an aged, bison

leather binder, and contributes to the

sense of legacy by giving each customer’s

ring a defined and documented age.

It’s something that our customers can

refer to when they visit us in 20 years.

• Our online marketing is very focused on

provenance – where and how the pieces

are made. Every piece is made to order,

Young

consumers need

to be able to ‘see

themselves’ in

a brand today

– especially

for highticket

items or

purchases that

hold emotive

significance,

like jewellery.

They need to

feel connected

to the brand’s

personality, or

to the attributes

associated with

the business’

founder

with purpose. We give a lot of in-depth

production education and information

about our team of jewellers.

• All our rings are delivered to the customer

in whiskey label-style packaging, listing the

ring’s cast date, the alloy it was made from,

and the weight. Hand-writing these details

gives the rings a specific purpose and

differentiates them from the sea of massproduced

junk on the market.

• A very important element in building our

brand, and creating a community around

it, was the launch of the CHD Design

Competition in which people can submit

designs with the chance to have theirs

made and sold by us for one month.

The competition allows us to engage

with highly involved customers and

followers, who give us feedback on the

design submissions.

This creates trust and provides insights

on future product designs, but it would

be extremely difficult to convince the

majority of the industry of the benefits of

this type of campaign.

However, it’s important for me – and

every other jewellery business owner – to

remember that our industry is, first and

foremost, product-centric.

In this day and age, getting too engulfed

in consumer purchasing behaviours and

content marketing can fool you into thinking

that is the most important part of your

business. But if your product stinks, then all

an efficient marketing funnel will do is find

the right customers – and let them know,

efficiently, that your product stinks!

Name: Ryan Purdie-Smith

Business: Crooked Howlet Designs

Position: Founder and jewellery designer

Location: Sydney, NSW

Years in the industry: 5

106 | August 2021


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