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Times of the Islands Fall 2021

Presents the "soul of the Turks & Caicos Islands" with in-depth features about local people, culture, history, environment, real estate, businesses, resorts, restaurants and activities.

Presents the "soul of the Turks & Caicos Islands" with in-depth features about local people, culture, history, environment, real estate, businesses, resorts, restaurants and activities.

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I sat down with local mariner David Douglas who<br />

has sailed <strong>the</strong>se waters for more than 35 years in his<br />

locally built schooner, <strong>the</strong> Atabeyra, (suncharters.tc)<br />

and asked him if this route made sense. “Yes, from Ft.<br />

George Cay, Brown most likely would have sailed south <strong>of</strong><br />

Providenciales to get to Southwest Reef. The o<strong>the</strong>r alternative<br />

would be to sail across Grace Bay to Northwest<br />

Point. And from <strong>the</strong>re cross <strong>the</strong> channel to West Caicos.<br />

That would have taken quite a bit longer and leave <strong>the</strong>m<br />

much more exposed to pirates. So <strong>the</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>rn route<br />

makes much more sense.”<br />

Casting <strong>of</strong>f from South Side Marina on Providenciales<br />

in Captain Ernesto’s boat MV Bonita (OceanFrontiersTCI.<br />

com), we followed Brown’s probable route heading to<br />

West Caicos. No doubt Brown and his crew would have<br />

stared in disbelief at <strong>the</strong> superbly comfortable and fast<br />

37-foot fiberglass Axopar with two huge 300 hp outboard<br />

motors. As we closed in on Southwest Reef using<br />

<strong>the</strong> coordinates Mark had provided, Captain Ernesto cut<br />

<strong>the</strong> engines. Somewhere below lay <strong>the</strong> cannon. Agile,<br />

co-founder <strong>of</strong> visittci.com and a font <strong>of</strong> TCI historical<br />

knowledge, prepped his underwater camera while Lynn<br />

began filming.<br />

We took in <strong>the</strong> scene as our boat rocked in a sea<br />

awash with endless hues <strong>of</strong> blue and streaked with<br />

golden brown Sargassum seaweed reflecting <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> midday<br />

sun. To <strong>the</strong> south, rows <strong>of</strong> cresting waves splashed<br />

over <strong>the</strong> shallow reefs that had claimed so many ships<br />

passing through. And fur<strong>the</strong>r <strong>of</strong>f lay <strong>the</strong> shore <strong>of</strong> West<br />

Caicos, a line <strong>of</strong> scrubby white bluffs mixed with sand<br />

and limestone stretching for miles without a trace <strong>of</strong><br />

human presence. Unchanged over years, we could see<br />

what <strong>the</strong>y saw and slipped for a moment back in time.<br />

“Burntfoot” Brown’s defiance<br />

Just who was Thomas Brown and what plight in his vastly<br />

different world brought him here? The man is no stranger<br />

to <strong>the</strong> pages <strong>of</strong> this magazine. Dr. Charlene Kozy’s four<br />

articles—“Hidden History” (Winter 2007/2008), “Revealing<br />

Thomas Brown” (<strong>Fall</strong> 2009), “All <strong>the</strong> King’s Men” (<strong>Fall</strong><br />

2010) and “The Rest <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Story” (Spring 2012)—provide<br />

illuminating portraits <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Loyalists in <strong>the</strong> Turks<br />

& Caicos and Brown in particular. As one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most<br />

resilient, headstrong and paradoxical characters in TCI<br />

history, he warrants continued examination.<br />

In 1775, just shy <strong>of</strong> his 25th birthday, Brown sailed<br />

from <strong>the</strong> bleak but prosperous North Sea town <strong>of</strong> Whitby,<br />

England to Georgia in <strong>the</strong> American Colonies. Thanks to<br />

MAP COURTESY WAVEY LINE PUBLISHING/ BOB GASCOINE • ROUTE BY AGILE LEVIN–VISITTCI.COM<br />

This map <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Caicos Banks shows <strong>the</strong> route that Thomas Brown likely took to <strong>the</strong> pirate attack area <strong>of</strong>f West Caicos.<br />

52 www.timespub.tc

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