Jeweller - October 2021

VOICE OF THE AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY INDUSTRY 

OCTOBER 2021 

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OCTOBER 2021 

Contents 

This Month 

Industry Facets 

11 Editor’s Desk 

12 Upfront 

14 News 

40 Jewellers Showcase 

22 

24 

26 

29 

10 YEARS AGO 

Time Machine: October 2011 

NOW & THEN 

JM Leech Jewellers 

MY STORE 

Harriet Kelsall Bespoke Jewellery 

LEARN ABOUT GEMS 

Matrix & boulder opal 

30 LAB-CREATED DIAMOND REPORT 

Dazzling potential 

4The lab-created diamond category 

has seen another year of expansion and 

innovation, yet it is not immune to 

challenges, writes ARABELLA RODEN. 

Features 

30 

LAB-CREATED DIAMOND REPORT 

All that glitters 

84 

86 

MY BENCH 

Roberto Mattei 

SOAPBOX 

Joshua Zarb 

45 

70 

HOLIDAY STOCK SPECIAL 

Christmas ready 

LOCAL JEWELLERY BRANDS FEATURE 

Homegrown heroes 

Better Your Business 

45 HOLIDAY STOCK SPECIAL 

Special delivery 

4Ensure your store is well-stocked for the 

holiday shopping season with products and 

services compiled by Jeweller. 

78 

80 

81 

82 

83 

BUSINESS STRATEGY 

DENYSE DRUMMOND-DUNN reveals how to increase sales with segmentation. 

SELLING 

DAVID BROCK explores how managers can support sales staff effectively. 

MANAGEMENT 

There is a hidden syndrome eating away at productivity, writes DAVID BROWN. 

MARKETING & PR 

DONNA ST JEAN CONTI explains the importance of repetition in marketing. 

LOGGED ON 

GARRY GRANT provides a simple strategy for improving your SEO results. 

29 LEARN ABOUT 

Matrix & 

boulder opal 

4Natural opal takes 

an unusual form 

with unique, vibrant 

matrix and boulder 

specimens. 

FRONT COVER Swarovski Created 

Diamonds are the marriage of art and 

science – a true celebration of human 

ingenuity and creativity. They are crafted 

by simulating the natural processes 

that form diamonds, before masterful 

faceting unlocks the radiance in each 

one. All Swarovski Created Diamonds 

are hand-selected and graded by 

gemmologists, and engineered with a 

carbon-neutral footprint. Distributed by 

Duraflex Group Australia. 

October 2021 | 9

Editor’s Desk 

Some battles have losers, while others 

create two winners 

As the diamond war has subsided, so too has the debate around how the natural 

and lab-created categories can thrive in peace, writes ARABELLA RODEN. 

When Jeweller published the first ‘Great 

Diamond Debate' – natural versus labcreated 

– in December 2018, the battle lines 

had been well and truly drawn. 

It was the early days and representatives 

from each side fought on every topic, from 

terminology and nomenclature, to marketing, 

value, sustainability, and ethics. 

Needless to say, the industry was heavily 

divided with palpable tension between the 

natural and lab-created camps. In many 

ways, the animosity was understandable; few 

knew what the lab-created category would 

mean for the natural diamond industry. 

Would consumers – increasingly driven by 

sustainability concerns and enthusiastic 

‘greenwashed’ marketing – abandon mined 

gemstones altogether? 

Would they be hoodwinked into purchasing 

factory-made rocks with no real ‘value’, 

leading to the collapse of companies with 

decades of history and thousands of jobs? 

In a move that, at one time, seemed 

unfathomable, the natural side also saw a 

high-profile ‘defection’ – the diamond mining 

juggernaut De Beers joined the adversaries, 

and established lab-created diamond retailer 

Lightbox Jewelry, which now leads the very 

category it once stood against. 

Yet just a year later, when Jeweller published 

the second edition of the ‘Great Diamond 

Debate’ – fact versus fiction – tempers had 

cooled dramatically as a more realistic 

picture of the lab-created category emerged. 

The conversation had shifted from a conflict 

between righteous, venerable industry and 

upstart competitors, to the importance of 

transparency, honesty, and differentiation 

between two relatively equal products; a 

diamond is a diamond. 

Today, the rhetoric has softened even further, 

and the battlegrounds have devolved to 

skirmishes – tit-for-tat reporting of marketing 

slogans to advertising watchdogs, swiftly 

corrected and forgotten. The dire predictions 

have failed to materialise. 

As some prophetic industry commentators 

foresaw, lab-created diamonds have 

settled into their own niche, accounting for 

approximately 3 per cent of overall diamond 

sales, and with annual production at around 

5 per cent of mined stones (in 2020, the 

figures were 6–7 million and 111 million 

carats). It makes up a sizable dollar value for 

a market that once didn’t exist! 

Have lab-created diamonds become – to 

borrow a tech industry phrase – the ‘great 

disruptor’ of natural diamonds? In short, no. 

But perhaps they have gone one better. 

It is easy to forget that competition is the 

cornerstone of capitalism. Competitors 

force incumbent businesses to innovate and 

improve, creating better products, more 

choice, and value for consumers. 

Every headline extolling the eco-friendly 

benefits of lab-created diamonds is a chance 

for the natural diamond industry to explain 

that sustainability also includes human 

development – one of its major strengths, 

having helped to drag entire nations out of 

poverty during the 20th Century. 

Conservation initiatives, social programs, and 

jobs in developing nations are nothing to be 

sneered at – a salient point that was recently 

made in The Guardian, of all publications. 

Indeed, it could be argued that lab-created 

diamond companies have pushed mining 

companies to examine their impact and 

long-term sustainability. 

The reverse is also true; mining companies 

have consistently held lab-created diamond 

producers to account, calling for transparency 

in the supply chain and manufacturing 

process, and demanding they prove the 

generous eco claims in their advertising. 

With approximately 60 per cent of lab-created 

diamonds manufactured in China under 

relatively opaque conditions, the questions 

are not unreasonable. 

It is quite possible that the entire diamond 

trade has become all the more responsible, 

accountable and simply better for challenging 

its counterpart. As fate would have it, only 

diamonds can polish diamonds. 

Many lab-created diamond manufacturers 

have gladly risen to the challenge, 

approaching third-parties for independent 

certification on carbon neutrality, water 

use, and more. Perhaps anticipating 

scrutiny, Pandora Jewelry commissioned an 

independent assessment of its first labcreated 

diamond collection, Brilliance – and 

Have labcreated 

diamonds 

become – to 

borrow a 

tech industry 

phrase – the 

‘great disruptor’ 

of natural 

diamonds? In 

short, no. But 

perhaps they 

have gone 

one better 

made the results publicly available at its 

launch this year. 

One must wonder whether those findings 

would have been made public if it went 

the ‘other way’ – but it is likely that the 

natural diamond sector would have had 

something to say about it, as they did when 

they protested that Pandora had implied it 

had switched to lab-created diamonds for 

ethical and sustainability reasons. 

While eco-friendly credentials are likely to 

remain a bone of contention, the upshot 

is two industries striving to create more 

transparent and positive products. 

And what does this mean for the consumer? 

Good things! They are the winners in market 

competition, gaining the benefit of choice 

to select products that best suit their needs 

and their budget. 

Indeed, it is the latter that appears to 

differentiate lab-created diamonds 

most plainly. 

A recent consumer survey, conducted by 

market research firm The MVEye, found that 

while sustainability and ‘green’ credentials 

are top of mind when consumers consider 

lab-created diamonds, the most important 

trigger for purchase is being able to obtain a 

larger diamond for less money. 

To those who believe that size matters, 

lab-created diamonds provide an affordable 

alternative. Lightbox Jewelry recently 

extended its range to include premium 

stones up to 2 carats; incredibly, in 2013 

the largest lab-created diamond in the 

world – manufactured by Gemesis Diamond 

Company – weighed just 1.29 carats. 

It is thrilling to consider how the technology 

could mature in the coming years, and how 

the natural diamond industry will respond, 

perhaps creating further value through 

innovative cutting and polishing, ever-more 

advanced and secure provenance, creative 

marketing campaigns, and exclusive 

jewellery collections – all of which have 

come to the fore in recent years due to 

competitive pressure. 

It is a cliché, but nonetheless true – without 

pressure, we would have no diamonds. 

Arabella Roden 

Editor 


Upfront 

#Instagram hashtags to follow 

#akoyapearl 

79,251+ POSTS 

#bijoux 

12.1 MILLION POSTS 

#chocolatediamonds 

20,557+ POSTS 

#opalring 

251,929+ POSTS 

#pinktopaz 

19,884+ POSTS 

HISTORIC GEMSTONE 

The Arco 

Valley Pearl 

4The 575-carat Arco Valley Pearl 

is one of the largest natural pearls 

in the world. A saltwater baroque 

pearl, it is believed to date back to the 

11th Century and count Mongolian 

emperor Kublai Khan and Marco Polo 

among its previous owners. 

#radiantcut 

49,405+ POSTS 

#rosegoldring 

95,697+ POSTS 

#rubyearrings 

42,653+ POSTS 

#silverjewelry 

4.6 MILLION POSTS 

#tsavorite 

233,915+ POSTS 

Alpha Order 

Holes in the pearl suggest it was once 

mounted in a tiara or crown. The rest of the pearl's history is unknown, but 

it eventually passed into the possession of Austrian nobility, the Arco-Valley 

family, from which it derives its current name. The pearl was auctioned in 

Abu Dhabi in 2007, valued at $US8 million. The buyer of the pearl and its 

current whereabouts are unknown, though it is believed to be in Europe. 

Celebrity Style 

4Actress Yara Shahidi stunned on the 

red carpet at this year's Emmy Awards 

wearing a suite of Cartier jewellery 

from the Cactus de Cartier Collection, 

which is inspired by spiked succulents. 

The necklace is crafted in 18-carat 

yellow gold set with 170 emeralds 

and 204 brilliant-cut diamonds, while 

the earrings feature 12 brilliant-cut 

diamonds set in 18-carat yellow gold. 

Image credit: Getty Images 

Image credit: House of Gübelin 

Stranger Things 

Weird, wacky and wonderful 

jewellery news from around the world 

Mystery solved 

4A woman found on a remote 

part of an island in Croatia last 

month has been identified as a 

former celebrity jeweller. Friends 

recognised Slovakian-born Daniela 

Adamcova, who previously lived 

in Los Angeles and counted Diana 

Ross and Barbra Streisand among 

her customers, from police photos. 

Adamcova was spotted sitting 

on a rocky outcrop by a passing 

fisherman, who alerted authorities. 

She was rescued but had no 

memory, phone or identification. 

Spectacular specs 

4Two pairs of unusual 17th 

Century spectacles from the 

court of India's Mughal Empire 

will be auctioned by Sotheby's 

this month. The jewel-encrusted 

glasses – named the 'Halo of Light' 

and 'Gates of Paradise' – feature 

lenses believed to have been 

cleaved from a 200-carat diamond 

and a 300-carat Colombian 

emerald. They have been valued at 

£1.5–2.5 million each. 

Under a 

cryptocurrency 

model, customers 

would bear 

Afterpay's 

transaction costs. 

Digital Brainwave 

4Buy-now, pay-later service Afterpay 

has urged the Australian government to 

introduce a framework to facilitate the 

introduction of cryptocurrencies to its 

platform. Doing so would allow the company 

to remove many of its merchant fees by 

eliminating its reliance on banks. 

“Merchants stand to benefit considerably 

from the cryptocurrency model, as [debit] 

card network fees are entirely removed from 

the equation,” Afterpay representatives said 

in a Senate inquiry submission. 

Jewel Watch 

4The House of Gübelin has unveiled its 

latest jewellery creation, the Cascading 

Springs cocktail ring (above). Featuring 

an 8.68-carat emerald and 239 other 

gemstones, the design is inspired 

by the lush landscape and flowing 

waterfalls of the Santa Rosa de Cabal 

Hot Springs in Colombia. It took 350 

hours to complete. 

Keep your hair on! 

4Talk about an expensive hairstyle! 

Mexican rapper Dan Sur has 

taken jewellery to the next level 

by having gold and diamond-studded 

chains surgically implanted 

in his scalp. The performer said, "The 

truth is that I wanted to do something 

different because I see that everyone 

dyes their hair. I hope not everyone 

copies me now... This is my hair – 

golden hair. The first rapper to have 

gold hair implanted in human history." 

Sur reportedly underwent the 

procedure in April this year. 

VOICE OF THE AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY INDUSTRY 

Published by Befindan Media Pty Ltd 

Locked Bag 26, South Melbourne, VIC 3205 AUSTRALIA | ABN 66 638 077 648 | Phone: +61 3 9696 7200 | Subscriptions & Enquiries: info@jewellermagazine.com 

Publisher Angela Han angela.han@jewellermagazine.com • Editor Arabella Roden arabella.roden@jewellermagazine.com • Production Lauren McKinnon art@befindanmedia.com 

Advertising Toli Podolak toli.podolak@jewellermagazine.com • Accounts Paul Blewitt finance@befindanmedia.com 

Copyright All material appearing in Jeweller is subject to copyright. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly forbidden without prior written consent of the publisher. Befindan Media Pty Ltd 

strives to report accurately and fairly and it is our policy to correct significant errors of fact and misleading statements in the next available issue. All statements made, although based on information 

believed to be reliable and accurate at the time, cannot be guaranteed and no fault or liability can be accepted for error or omission. Any comment relating to subjective opinions should be addressed to 

the editor. Advertising The publisher reserves the right to omit or alter any advertisement to comply with Australian law and the advertiser agrees to indemnify the publisher for all damages or liabilities 

arising from the published material.

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News 

In Brief 

Pandora announces new 

Gen Z spokespeople 

4 Pandora Jewelry has announced a raft of 

new celebrity faces as part of its strategy 

to appeal to Gen Z and Millennial shoppers, 

which it estimates will constitute 60 per 

cent of luxury consumers by 2025. These 

include new Pandora 'Muses' Precious 

Lee, Cici Xiang, and the first male ‘Muse’, 

actor and skateboarder Evan Mock, and 

the Pandora ME Collective, including TikTok 

star Addison Rae and singer Charli XCX. 

Jewellery ‘Stock Up & Top Up’ event gets goahead; 

full support from buying groups 

Delayed JCK Las Vegas 

delights attendees 

4 US jewellery trade fair JCK Las Vegas 

and its 'sister' event, JCK Luxury, had 

a successful return after being delayed 

due to the COVID-19 pandemic. Held 

from 24–30 August 2021, organiser 

Reed Events said 1,200 exhibitors and 

more than 10,000 buyers attended. The 

next JCK Las Vegas – when the show 

will celebrate its 30th anniversary – is 

scheduled for 10–13 June 2022. 

Tech breakthrough 

for melee diamonds 

4 UK-based technology firm Opsydia 

has developed an ultra-precise laser 

marking technique that can place 

permanent identifying characters, such 

as codes or a logo, under the surface 

of melee diamonds. The technology has 

been used across diamond samples for 

the next phase of the Natural Diamond 

Council's Project Assure program, which 

assesses diamond detectors. 

New coloured gemstone 

grading system 

4Following three years of development, 

the Gübelin Gem Lab has announced 

a new rating system for coloured 

gemstones. Modelled after Robert 

Parker’s wine rating system, it assigns 

each specimen a numerical score from 

75 to 100, known as Gübelin Points, 

based on its gemmological qualities. The 

points system is based on thousands of 

gemstone reports analysed by Gübelin's 

Gemtelligence software. 

NSW Health has cleared Stock Up & Top Up Sydney to take place in November, with buying groups throwing their 

support behind the event. 

The NSW government’s recent announcement 

regarding the easing of COVID-19 restrictions 

has meant the pre-Christmas trade event, 

Stock Up & Top Up – scheduled for Sunday 7 

and Monday 8 November at the International 

Convention Centre (ICC), Darling Harbour – is 

approved to run. 

Gary Fitz-Roy, managing director of Stock 

Up & To Up organiser Expertise Events, said, 

“NSW Health has approved our event within 

the new orders, and we are updating our 

COVID plans.” 

Fitz-Roy added that the industry is in dire 

need of a trade event to reconnect, and that 

the current lockdown has had a very different 

impact on retailers than the 2020 lockdown. 

For those reasons, it is “even more significant 

that all four jewellery buying groups have 

announced that they will attend.” 

“Since announcing Stock Up & Top Up last 

week, it’s fantastic that Nationwide, Showcase, 

Independent Jewellers Collective and Leading 

Edge are all supporting the event and will be 

there to meet their members and suppliers 

face-to-face to support uniting the industry at 

this most important time,” Fitz-Roy said. 

“There is such pent-up demand to reconnect 

and get on with our day-to-day routine and 

business, and it's an important time to ensure 

retailers have the latest stock, and enough 

stock, for Christmas and the New Year,” 

he added. 

Colin Pocklington, managing director of 

Nationwide Jewellers, said, "Following a long 

lockdown period it is essential that retailers 

have a highly successful trading period in the 

lead up to Christmas. 

"Very buoyant trading in the states with 

minimal lockdown periods shows that 

consumers are looking to buy jewellery, just as 

they did following the lockdown from March to 

June in 2020.” 

Nicola Adams, chief operating officer, 

Showcase Jewellers, said she was looking 

forward to the SUTU event. 

“I am sure it will be a great show for us to 

reconnect with our membership. Showcase 

is preparing for a strong Christmas once 

we finally re-open in many states after long 

lockdowns,” Adams said. 

Echoing Adams and Pocklington’s sentiments, 

Josh Zarb, CEO of Independent Jewellers 

Collective, said, “The timing of Stock Up 

& Top Up works perfectly for us to provide 

our retailers the chance to see everything 

‘live’ and we will use the opportunity to 

look at as much product as possible for 

our 2022 season.” 

Claire Packett, head of category at Leading 

Edge Group Jewellers, said she was “looking 

forward to welcoming members and suppliers 

to Stock Up & Top Up in November,” adding, 

“We also look forward to supporting and 

helping to bring people across the industry 

together, for what we hope is a strong and 

profitable Christmas for all.” 

Stock Up & Top Up will be hosted in a 

spacious Premier Room of the ICC Gallery, 

with a gift industry event in an adjacent room, 

and will include Christmas drinks on Sunday. 

Fitz-Roy explained that limited spaces would 

be available in order to maintain a sensible 

buyer-to-seller ratio, along with offering a 

cost-effective package. 

"We are all hoping that we can finish the year 

on a high,” he added. 

14 | October 2021

Former Pandora executive accused of 

abandoning latest jewellery company 

Following the closure of his multi-level-marketing business JN Jewellery, Jesper 

Nielsen came under fire as his fraught business history was revealed. 

Following the abrupt closure of his multi-level-marketing (MLM) jewellery 

business JN Jewellery/JN Jewelry, many people came forward with 

additional information and complaints about its founder Jesper 'Kasi' 

Nielsen, a former Pandora Jewelry executive. 

While the MLM business model can offer a legitimate sales structure, the 

industry has been fraught with illegal operations that are, instead, pyramid 

schemes. Nielsen is believed to have launched JN Jewellery in Europe in 

early 2020 and expanded into Australia in March 2021. 

According to those involved, it had attracted more than 70,000 ‘ambassadors’ 

– a buzz term used to describe salespeople recruited as paid members to 

sell the jewellery on a commission-only basis – at the time of its closure on 

10 September 2021. 

A petition titled ‘Justice For Our Ambassadors for JN ruining their 

reputations’ published on the activist website Change.org says JN Jewellery 

“shut down with zero warning”, claims that more 4,500 orders were still 

awaiting shipment, and that “thousands of ambassadors [members] haven’t 

even received July commissions, let alone August. Some have unspent 

credits they issued for their pay in their back office still.” 

Several former members have provided additional information about JN 

Jewellery, saying that Nielsen consistently promoted – and heavily relied 

upon – his previous connection with Pandora to attract new members. 

Mary Francese, a JN Jewellery member from the US who started the 

Change.org petition, explained to jewellery industry publication JCK 

Online that she had spent four years working in various MLM businesses, 

saying that she was first attracted to JN Jewellery through Facebook 

advertisements. 

“Usually very little stands out to me. But with COVID, the kitchenware brand 

I was working with had a lot of supply backups. And when I saw this post, 

it talked about jewellery, it talked about how it involved the co-founder of 

Pandora,” Francese said. 

“I thought, it would be stupid not to pursue this. Pandora was a really 

successful company. The product, the compensation plan, it all seemed 

perfect.” 

Francese, a stay-at-home mother, explained to JCK that she had “spent 

nearly seven months selling Jesper Nielsen (JN) jewellery, eventually 

becoming a company ‘World Leader’ and joining its customer service team” 

in a paid role; however, complaints from members quickly overwhelmed her. 

CONTINUED ON PAGE 20

News 

Pandora Jewelry restructures Asia-Pacific operations 

Pandora is restructuring its Asia-Pacific operations, with 

its regional headquarters – excluding China – moving to 

Sydney. Image: Pandora x Disney Collection charms 

Just 18 months after restructuring its 

international operations, jewellery company 

Pandora has announced it will eliminate one of 

its 10 regional divisions, consolidating its Asia- 

Pacific operations in the process. 

The company announced the closure of 

three regional headquarters in March 2020 

– alongside the loss of 180 jobs – when it 

restructured the business into 10 ‘Clusters’, with 

the Asia-Pacific region divided into China, Pacific 

and Rest-of-Asia. 

However, the Rest-of-Asia division, including 

Hong Kong, Japan, and Singapore, will now be 

assimilated into existing Clusters. 

David Allen, current general manager of the 

Pacific Cluster – which includes Australia and 

New Zealand and is based in Sydney – will take 

control of the Japan and Singapore markets, as 

well as 11 other distributor-controlled markets 

throughout Southeast Asia and Korea. 

Allen told Jeweller, "The leadership team in 

the Pacific is reviewing the required resources, 

including the current organisational structure, 

to ensure that we are able to realise the full 

potential of our expanded Pacific and Greater 

Asia business." 

Meanwhile the Hong Kong, Taiwan, and Macau 

markets will be absorbed into the new Greater 

China Cluster, headquartered in Shanghai 

and led by current China general manager 

Jacques Roizen. 

The transition is scheduled to be completed 

by February 2022, at which point Rest-of-Asia 

general manager Alan Chan will depart 

the company. 

According to a statement from Pandora, the 

decision to reduce the number of regional 

clusters was made to “optimise our operating 

structure and create further commercial 

synergies – with the overall goal of capturing the 

growth opportunities that we are targeting in our 

new Phoenix strategy.” 

Phoenix is the title of Pandora’s new strategic 

initiative, announced at the end of Q1 2021. 

As part of the strategy, Pandora has announced 

it a DKK1 billion ($AU216 million) expansion 

of its southeast Asian manufacturing facilities, 

including a new factory in Vietnam. 

Jewellery sales slump as lockdowns continue; Christmas 'rebound' predicted 

Extended lockdowns in NSW and Victoria 

have taken a heavy toll on jewellery sales 

during September, according to data compiled 

by Retail Edge Consultants from stores 

across Australia. 

Overall, Retail Edge’s latest report found that 

sales in dollars decreased by 25 per cent 

compared with September 2020, while sales in 

units dropped by 28 per cent. 

All categories of jewellery recorded double-digit 

declines when compared with the same period 

last year. 

However, the steepest falls were sales of 

diamond-set precious metal jewellery and 

silver and alternative metals jewellery, which 

fell 31 per cent and 27 per cent respectively 

compared with September 2020, and 19 per cent 

and 18 per cent compared with September 2019. 

Commenting on the results, the report’s 

authors noted, “The figures are impacted by 

the number of stores with limited trading in 

September; however, the picture shows that 

those stores that were able to open during the 

month showed a strong rebound effect. 

“This has been the same pattern that we have 

observed each time there has been a lockdown 

and re-open process. 

"We believe that pattern will continue, so if 

you are closed, make sure that you are fully 

prepared for when you are able to open. 

Historically, there has been pent up consumer 

demand for jewellery when this happens.” 

The report went on to recommend jewellers 

encourage customers to “buy early” or put 

items on layby given the holiday shopping 

season is rapidly approaching. 

“Australia Post said that September parcel 

numbers were larger than their previous largest 

month, December 2020. 

"Out-of-stocks and shipping delays will 

be inevitable,” the report said. “Encourage 

customers to adopt the early bird philosophy – 

‘If you like it and you see it, buy it.’” 

Diamond-set precious metal jewellery was the hardesthit 

category in September as jewellery sales fell 

by 25 per cent across the board, though a Christmas 

recovery is expected. 


Precious metal refinery and casting house publishes sustainability report 

Pallion has detailed its sustainability initiatives across 

the FY2021 in a new report, including new recycling and 

low-waste technology. 

The Pallion group of companies – which includes 

ABC Refinery and Palloys – has released its 

annual sustainability report, which details 

the group’s policies and performance across 

environmental, community, health, and industrial 

standards. 

Titled Considerate Precious Metals, the report 

was developed by the company’s Sustainability, 

Environment, Health & Safety Committee with 

oversight from the Pallion board of directors, 

and was prepared in accordance with the Global 

Reporting Initiative, an independent, international 

standards organisation. 

David Woodford, chief commercial officer 

at Pallion, said, “At Pallion, the concept 

of sustainability is not about lip service to 

the market, it’s an important part of our 

business model.” 

Andrew Cochineas, CEO Pallion, added, “This 

report evidences the collective efforts of Pallion, 

its clients and suppliers to sustainability 

initiatives over the 2021 financial year and in that 

regard is a true representation of our corporate 

ethos of partnership. 

“Our hope is that continued improvement will 

result in collective social and commercial 

success,” he added. 

Notably, Pallion introduced a number of initiatives 

during the FY2021 financial year to improve 

provenance and production of precious metals. 

ABC Refinery doubled the size of its Acidless 

Separation System (ALS) to establish what 

it claims is the largest ALS refining capacity 

worldwide; ALS provides “significant advantages 

to traditional refining techniques including inert 

refining emissions and significantly reduced 

refining time which in turn reduces energy 

consumption,” according to Pallion’s report. 

ABC Refinery also made “significant 

improvements” in the recovery of metallic silver 

from silver chloride, a by-product of electrolytic 

silver refining, and improved the extraction of 

residual precious metals at its sweeps treatment 

plant by 60 per cent through the installation of 

new crushing and grinding mechanisms. 

The report also explored Pallion's workplace 

diversity and charity initiatives.

News 

New Zealand jeweller launches new precious 

metal alloy following decade of development 

Master jeweller Hugh Gillbanks has spent more than 10 years developing Starium, a high-performance alloy, for 

the jewellery industry. Pictured: Jewellery crafted from Starium; Hugh Gillbanks at the bench 

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Following more than 10 years of development, 

a new metal alloy created by master jeweller 

Hugh Gillbanks is now available to the 

jewellery industry. 

The alloy, named Starium for its celestial 

lustre, polishes up to the same colour as 

rhodium but does not require rhodium 

plating, and has proven resistant to tarnish 

and corrosion as well as displaying superior 

workability, according to its inventor. 

Gillbanks told Jeweller, “You can roll it, 

fabricate it, it can be cast; it works exactly the 

same as any other metal you'd use. 

“The benefits are that it's a high-temperature 

metal, so it's very easy to solder and keep 

clean. When you're soldering it and you 

put it back into the acid, it takes away 

all the fireburn. 

“If you polish it first, it comes out exactly how 

you'd polish it after you'd worked with it,” he 

explained, adding, “Jewellers will be blown 

away by what it does, what it's like to use, and 

what they can make with it. It files, bends, and 

sets beautifully. It seems too soft to set with at 

first, but it's harder than other metals." 

Gillbanks had begun his career in the industry 

at 16, later moving into luxury custom-makes, 

master patterns and design. 

He began developing the alloy more than 

10 years ago, when he was approached by 

his friend Kotin Ma – a geologist, gemstone 

collector, and New Zealand tourism operator – 

to create metallic beads from a meteorite. 

“He is a very spiritual person and I had 

made a lot of jewellery for him and his 

customers overseas, using a variety of 

different gemstones. 

"He asked me if I could make beads from 

a meteorite, and I said no, nobody could! 

Instead, I suggested we create a new precious 

metal that could be used for anything,” 

Gillbanks recalled. 

Ma – now Gillbanks' business partner – also 

wanted to develop a metal that wouldn't cause 

an allergic reaction, as his wife's wedding ring 

did while on their honeymoon. 

"That was the first and last time she wore her 

original ring!" Ma told Jeweller. "I wouldn't 

want any other couples to go through what we 

did that day. She could not wear any jewellery 

that wasn't platinum or high-carat gold – until 

we developed our metal." 

Gillbanks said it had taken six years to bring 

Starium up to industry standards. 

"It can do anything that every other metal on 

the market can do,” he told Jeweller, adding 

that friends and family – including Ma and his 

wife – have worn Starium jewellery for years. 

In 2010, a prototype of the metal was assessed 

by Professor Milo Kral from the University of 

Canterbury in Christchurch, New Zealand. 

However, while the metal was patented in both 

New Zealand and Australia, progress was 

halted by the devastating 2011 Christchurch 

Earthquake when samples were lost before 

they could be tested. 

Following a protracted rebuilding phase, 

Starium is "finally ready to go out to the market 

and everything is in place", with Gillbanks – 

now based in Queensland – partnering with an 

Australian factory to manufacture Starium at 

scale for the jewellery industry.

Buying group announces pre-Christmas 'expo' 

Nationwide Jewellers, Australasia’s largest 

jewellery buying group, has announced 

its Pre-Christmas Expo virtual event will 

return for a second year to assist retailers in 

stocking up ahead of the holiday season. 

Colin Pocklington, managing director, 

Nationwide, praised the Expo format, saying, 

“Our 2020 Expo was a huge success with 

our participating suppliers achieving 

substantial orders. There was also great 

participation from members in the webinar 

program that we ran over the two-week Expo 

period,” he added. 

This year’s Expo will take place from 

Monday 25 October to Friday 5 November, 

with more than 70 of Nationwide’s preferred 

suppliers taking part. 

The virtual Expo platform features three 

supplier ‘pavilions’ – Australia, New Zealand 

and International – and each supplier ‘stand’ 

comprises a video message, Expo special 

offer, and list of best-selling products. 

Members will be able to order from the 

‘stand’ or by contacting the supplier directly. 

Each Nationwide member will be allocated 

up to $60,000 in ‘Expo Dollars’ – depending 

on their Member Reward Scheme level – to 

pay over six months, interest-free. 

In order to provide flexibility to retailers in 

different states, Nationwide has“made our 

Expo Dollars available over an extended 

period from early October to mid-November,” 

Pocklington explained. 

In addition to special offers from suppliers, 

the Expo will also include a keynote address 

from Pocklington. daily online workshops 

focused on business management, and a 

specialist question-and-answer panel. 

Plus, a number of social events are set 

to take place, including a Melbourne 

Cup-themed virtual session on Tuesday 2 

November and a concluding Happy Hour on 

Friday 5 November, where Nationwide’s 2021 

Apprentice of the Year and 2021 Members 

and Suppliers of the Year for Australia and 

New Zealand will be announced. 

Hollywood star returns for natural 

diamond advertising campaign 

Chinese markets last year. David Kellie, CEO 

of the NDC, said, “Diamond jewellery sales 

have seen record-breaking growth as we 

emerge from the pandemic. 

"We're thrilled to have Ana de Armas back 

with us for another year to share the magic of 

natural diamonds with a global audience." 

The Natural Diamond Council has released its 

second campaign with actress Ana de Armas. 

Image credit: Natural Diamond Council 

The Natural Diamond Council (NDC) – 

formerly known as the Diamond Producers 

Association – has revealed its second 

large-scale advertising campaign starring 

actress Ana de Armas. 

De Armas, who is set to star in the upcoming 

James Bond film No Time To Die and is 

best-known for roles in Knives Out and 

Blade Runner 2049, was named the NDC’s 

international ‘face’ in 2020. 

Her previous campaign for the organisation 

was distributed across the US, UK, Indian and 

The new campaign, named ‘Love Life’, 

features De Armas wearing a custom-made 

11-piece diamond jewellery collection by 

jewellery designer Malyia McNaughton, who 

was part of the NDC’s Emerging Designers 

Diamond Initiative earlier this year. 

De Armas emphasises the “joy and hope” 

of the campaign, saying, “It was an amazing 

experience working with this incredible team 

and I couldn't be happier to be working again 

with the Natural Diamond Council.” 

Notably, McNaughton’s collection – which 

features current trends including “gender 

fluidity, heavy metal chains, and the 

marquise cut” – has been made available 

to international retailers to either stock or 

manufacture for the holiday season.

News 

In Brief 

International watch and 

jewellery sales slow 

4 Market analysis firm The Mercury 

Project has published its latest report into 

international watch and jewellery sales. 

Following a strong recovery in the first 

half of the year, the report notes "pent up 

demand" has "softened" with July showing 

a 23.9 per cent rise compared with 2020, 

versus 150.9 per cent in May. However, its 

overall sales index for the first seven months 

of the year is 8.8 per cent above 2019. 

E-commerce jewellery 

company goes public 

4 Brilliant Earth, which manufactures 

and retails personalised bridal 

jewellery, has successfully launched 

its initial public offering (IPO) on the 

NASDAQ in New York, with its share 

price rising by 43 per cent, from $US12 

to $US17.16, on its first day of trading. 

According to Forbes, Brilliant Earth's 

sales increased 25 per cent in 2020, 

reaching $US251.8 million. 

Ellendale Mine owner 

purchases yellow stones 

4 Burgundy Diamond Mines, which 

took control of Western Australia's 

Ellendale Mine in March, has announced 

the purchase of $US1 million in Fancy 

Vivid and Fancy Intense yellow diamonds 

from the Ekati Mine in Canada. The 

stones will be cut and polished at 

Burgundy's specialist facility in Perth, 

before being marketed as the company's 

"first branded diamond product". 

Omega gets royal 

seal of approval 

4Watch brand Omega, part of the 

Swatch Group, can count HRH Prince 

William among its fans. Observers noted 

the royal wearing an Omega Seamaster 

Diver to the premiere of the James 

Bond film No Time To Die – of which 

Omega is a sponsor, adorning the wrist 

of the iconic fictional spy. However, the 

prince's timepiece is in fact his everyday 

watch of choice, gifted to him by his late 

mother Princess Diana. 

Former Pandora executive accused of 

abandoning latest jewellery company 

CONTINUED FROM PAGE 15 

Another member, who contacted Jeweller, 

said Nielsen “planted seeds of dreams in over 

76,000 people, he got them to spend money 

for higher commissions... Creating urgency to 

purchase at discounted rates, but it became 

clear when his sales never stopped and his 

‘newly’ named products arrived branded with 

Endless [Jewelry] and Amazing [Jewelry], that 

something was seriously not right.” 

One member told Jeweller she had joined 

the business just four weeks before it closed 

and like many others, was out-of-pocket for 

product inventory. 

Describing the unexpected closure of 

the business, the member said, “On 10 

September we were told JN had gone into 

administration. 

"When we tried to contact customer 

service and Jesper via Facebook for further 

information, all points of contact and Jesper’s 

social media accounts had been closed." 

“We have searched for a point of contact for 

Jesper but he has vanished off the face of the 

Earth,” she added. 

Nielsen was initially a European Pandora 

distributor and a member of its management 

team, before resigning as president of its 

Central Western Europe subsidiary in 2011. 

He was bound by a non-compete clause until 

1 June 2013, whereby he immediately founded 

Endless Jewelry. 

Despite experiencing a rapid expansion, 

Nielsen left Endless Jewelry in February 

2016; the company declared bankruptcy in 

November that year. 

In June 2016, Nielsen opened the first 

Amazing Jewelry store in Copenhagen. It 

operated on a franchise business model 

and reportedly reached a store count of 60. 

However, media reports in August 2018 stated 

that five German stores were closed amid 

insolvency proceedings. 

The last remaining store – the Copenhagen 

flagship – was closed by Nielsen in February 

2021, one month after Nielsen’s company 

Kasi Brands went into bankruptcy. According 

to Danish media, Nielsen was declared 

personally bankrupt on 17 November 2020 

and currently lives “for rent” in Majorca, Spain. 

Nielsen has also been embroiled in legal 

disputes with Pandora since leaving the 

company a decade ago. 

In 2017, Denmark’s Maritime and Commercial 

High Court ruled that Nielsen had unlawfully 

used the Pandora trademark to promote 

Amazing Jewelry. 

He had been warned against using the 

Pandora name before, with a Danish website 

covering trademark law reporting that 

Pandora had "found reason to voice their 

concern towards Mr Nielsen’s continuous 

use of Pandora again in the spring of 

2015, and in June 2016 Pandora obtained 

a default judgment.” 

“It became clear when his sales never 

stopped and his ‘newly’ named products 

arrived branded with Endless [Jewelry] 

and Amazing [Jewelry], that something 

was seriously not right” 

FORMER JN JEWELLERY MEMBER 

Three years after his departure from Pandora, 

Nielsen also self-published a book entitled 

Inside Pandora, and which was promoted as: 

“A simple and unconventional approach to 

business by one of the key players behind the 

billion-dollar global enterprise.” 

At the time of Nielsen’s resignation from the 

Pandora board, his company Kasi ApS – also 

known as Kasi Group – sold its shares in the 

business for an initial payment of DKK385 

million ($AU83.5 million) with a second 

payment promised based on future earnings. 

In 2015, Nielsen contended that Pandora 

had not honoured this second payment and 

insisted that he was owed DKK753 million 

($AU164 million) – later increased to more 

than DKK2 billion ($AU430 million). 

Pandora has consistently denied Nielsen’s 

claim. The case has since moved into 

arbitration; however, Kasi ApS was fined 

DKK5 million ($AU1.09 million) in 2020 due to 

Nielsen's breach of a confidentiality clause. 

According to a Finans.dk report, the fine was 

not paid, forcing Kasi ApS into bankruptcy. 

During more recent court proceedings, 

Nielsen is reported as saying: “It is expensive 

to be Jesper Nielsen, and I am good at 

making money." 

The future for his reported 76,000 JN 

Jewellery ‘ambassadors’ is unknown – as 

are any monies owed to them. 

Jeweller has attempted to contact Jesper 

Nielsen. His personal website jespernielsen. 

com is non-functioning and various emails to 

the business have ‘bounced’. 


Sky-high sales for fashion jewellery chain Lovisa amid COVID expansion 

Lovisa has announced positive financial results for 

FY21, following its acquisition of German jewellery and 

accessories retail firm Beeline Group. 

Fashion jewellery retailer Lovisa has announced 

a $42.7 million profit to 20 June 2021, a 39.4 per 

cent increase compared to the previous year. Total 

sales reached $288 million – an increase of 18.9 

per cent over FY20 ($243 million). 

Despite the global pandemic, same-store sales 

increased by 8 per cent over FY20, while one of 

the largest growth sectors was the company’s 

e-commerce strategy, which delivered 178 per 

cent growth in FY21. 

Gross margin was up 77 per cent, while gross 

profit increased 18 per cent to $221 million. 

The fashion jewellery chain started in Australia 

more than a decade ago, however 72 per cent 

of its current 544-store network is now located 

outside 

of Australia. Lovisa is owned by the ASX-listed 

BB Retail Capital, founded by retail entrepreneur 

Brett Blundy. 

Lovisa’s store count dramatically increased in 

December last year when it acquired German 

retail firm Beeline Group, which operated 114 

fashion jewellery and accessories stores across 

Germany, Switzerland, the Netherlands, Belgium, 

Austria, Luxembourg, and France, under the 

brands Six and I Am. 

Along with 22 new stores, 87 of the 114 Six and 

I Am outlets were converted to Lovisa, with the 

“remainder exited at or around the time of the 

handover”, the company stated. 

As previously reported by Jeweller, the Beeline 

acquisition was for a nominal €70 ($AU113), with 

Lovisa taking over €3 million in bank guarantees 

associated with the leases on the Beeline Group 

stores. Lovisa is obliged to pay Beeline Group 

an additional €3 million from its existing credit 

facilities before 31 March 2022. 

Lovisa's US store count increased from 48 in 

FY20 to 63 by June 2021. It has been reported 

that Lovisa received about $12 million in 

JobKeeper and other wage subsidies for stooddown 

staff while, at the same time, did not pay 

rent while stores were closed. 

Lovisa was listed on the ASX at $2 per share in 

December 2014 and at the time of publication was 

trading at $18.83. 

International trade show makes successful return in India 

Following the cancellation of its 2020 edition due 

to the COVID-19 pandemic, the India International 

Jewellery Show (IIJS) Premiere made a triumphant 

return last month. 

The show – held from 15–19 September in the 

city of Bengaluru – recorded approximately 

1,300 exhibitors and 21,000 visitors, including 

more than 300 international buyers, according 

to organiser the Gem & Jewellery Export 

Promotion Council (GJEPC). 

Prior to the pandemic, IIJS Premiere would attract 

35,000–40,000 visitors, of which more than 1,000 

were international buyers. 

The GJEPC claims it is the first large-scale, 

international, and entirely physical jewellery 

trade show to be held since the pandemic began. 

Notably, the 2021 event was held outside Mumbai 

for the first time in the show’s history due to 

COVID-19 restrictions in the city. 

According to a GJEPC statement, the show 

generated “business worth $US6.75 billion” 

($AU9.4 billion). 

“The success of IIJS Premiere 2021 is a clear 

indication that the gem and jewellery industry 

has shrugged off the pandemic’s effects on the 

sector and the economy at large,” the statement 

continued. 

Colin Shah, chairman of the GJEPC, said, “We are 

delighted that IIJS Premiere has generated an 

estimated $US6.75 billion worth of business. We 

are already witnessing a surge in exports and are 

confident that the industry will achieve the export 

target of $US43.75 billion this year.” 

Shah also thanked the Karnataka State 

Government and the show’s venue, the Bangalore 

International Exhibition Centre, which was subject 

to rigorous safety regulations including an on-site 

COVID-19 testing centre, ambulance, quarantine 

room, and on-call doctor. 

Attendees were required to have at least one 

dose of a COVID-19 vaccine, as well as produce a 

negative test within 48 hours prior to attendance. 

The GJPEC statement noted international 

buyers from Bangladesh, the UK, USA, Thailand, 

Singapore, Australia, the United Arab Emirates, 

and Nepal had placed orders at the show. 

The India International Jewellery Show (IIJS) Premiere 

2021 was held in Bengaluru in September, attracting 

21,000 visitors. Image: Dignitaries launch the IIJS 

Premiere 2021 


10 Years Ago 

Time Machine: October 2011 

A snapshot of the industry events making headlines this time 10 years ago in Jeweller. 

Historic Headlines 

4 Five more years for Expertise Events 

4 Michael Hill profits 

4 Big win for Queensland jewellers 

4 Georgini heads overseas 

4 Celebrity launches diamond collection 

Diamond investment fund 

Australian investors will have the chance to 

contribute to the Australian arm of a new $US250 

million diamond asset fund. 

The Diamond Asset Fund (DAF 1) is a joint 

venture between Canadian retailer Harry Winston 

Diamonds and Zürich-based advisor, Diamond 

Asset Advisors (DAA) and involves Harry Winston 

sourcing diamonds which will then be consigned 

to it by the fund; when sold, Harry Winston will pay 

the fund the prevailing market price as determined 

by its cost to replace the diamond. 

Formed in May this year, the partnership is 

raising funds from institutional investors. It will be 

managed locally by Melbourne-based investment 

advisor Bristow Shaw & Company, which aims to 

raise $30 million from "institutions" and "high networth 

parties". 

Young jewellers meet in Sydney 

The Young Jewellers Group (YJG) met for the first 

time at the Sydney fair in August for cocktails and 

conversation. 

Hosted by Jeweller editor Coleby Nicholson, the 

function was attended by about 30 people including 

some senior members of the industry, who offered 

help and guidance. 

Nicholson, who instigated the meeting, said that 

Jeweller magazine was essentially a conduit for 

encouraging the group to form ideas and network 

together, in order to enhance their future. 

NSW-based young jeweller Ewen Ryley has been 

managing the group's Facebook page and urged 

fellow young jewellers to get on board. Young 

jewellers from New Zealand have also joined the 

YJG, including Naeem Alhaseny from Marqueez 

Jewellery, who said she was eager to network with 

other jewellers. 

October 2011 

ON THE COVER Storch & Co. 

Editor’s Desk 

4Look In The Mirror First:“While 

I sympathise with jewellers' concerns 

about how the industry has changed, 

longing for the 'good ol' days' won't 

change a thing. 

"Ridiculing successful brands for their 

popularity with consumers or agitating 

for government protection of traditional 

business models is misguided to say the 

least. If your business is struggling, the 

first place to look is in the mirror, rather 

than across the road!" 

Soapbox 

4The Importance of Trade Fairs 

“The core reason for trade fairs is 

obvious; for buyers to meet with 

existing, and new, sellers. But what 

is often overlooked is that fairs also 

provide a way for those in the industry 

to network and help each other. 

"Many people seem to think a 

successful fair is just about getting 

numbers through the door – I 

disagree. It's the quality of the 

audience that's important, not 

the quantity." 

– Gary Fitz-Roy, managing director, 

Expertise Events 

STILL RELEVANT 10 YEARS ON 

Child's Play: 

No longer content to be told what to wear 

by mum or dad, these chic kids often 

dictate what purchases are to be made. 

Influenced by peers, celebrities, and a 

greater exposure to what's available via 

the internet and social media, these kids 

know what they want and once they 

arexposed to a product, hopefully remain 

loyal in the long-term. 

Ayres acquires competitor 

Melbourne-based company Kenneth Ayres 

has acquired its competitor, Davies Ferguson, 

which will cease operations on 31 August 2011 

after 30 years in business. 

Kenneth Ayres has acquired the business 

assets in the form of stock, plant and 

equipment, but not the 'Davies Ferguson' 

trading name. Paul Chaston, Ayres national 

sales manager, said: "We knew they wanted 

to move on. Our relationship has always been 

respectful, despite being competitors, and it 

has been an amicable transition." 

Chaston believes the combination of both Ayres 

and Davies Ferguson gives customers a greater 

level of choice. 

US jewellery sales expert 

in Australia 

US based sales expert Shane Decker was in 

Australia recently to head a series of seminars 

on jewellery retailing. 

Visiting for the first time, Decker inspired 

audiences with his charistmatic speech and 

proactive approach to retailing. 

The first seminar, entitled, 'Anatomy of a 

diamond sale', saw Decker deliver practical 

tools encompassing everything from the 

importance of showing diamonds on a 

daily basis to the consistency of excellent 

customer service. 

Decker also conducted one-hour seminars on 

customer loyalty and customer service, noting 

Australian retailers "lack accountability". 

READ ALL HEADLINES IN FULL ON 

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INSIDE 

Now & Then 

JM Leech Jewellers 

Celebrating 93 Years • BENDIGO, CASTLEMAINE, ECHUCA, AND MARYBOROUGH, VIC • A moment with Adam Tuohy, director 

MILESTONES 

L to R: Jessie Leech's sister Connie with Johnstone Melmore Leech outside the original JM Leech Jewellers 

Bendigo store, circa 1932; an historic newspaper advertisement for the business 

JM Leech Jewellers was founded by my 

grandfather and grandmother more than 

90 years ago and today, is the oldest 

jewellery store in Bendigo. 

My grandmother, Jessie, used to work for 

a department store and my grandfather 

Johnstone Melmore Leech fancied her, so he 

had his brother take a note to her and ask if 

she would come and work for him instead! 

They ended up getting together and started 

JM Leech Jewellers in 1928. 

In 1930, when the business was only two 

years old, the Great Depression really began 

to hit Australia; then, a few years later, 

Johnstone went off to World War II. 

There have been so many obstacles over the 

years; there were times when they couldn't 

get stock – if you wanted an engagement 

ring in the 1930s, you had a choice of two! 

From wars to depressions and recessions, I 

take my hat off to them. I know we are going 

through tough times now, but I think if we 

were to take our minds back to what the 

previous generations went through, we'd 

have a bit more appreciation for how tough 

times really were back then! 

My grandparents had personal struggles 

too; their daughter was born in 1937 and 

tragically died when she was two. 

They had my mother, Faith, in 1941 and 

were told she would be in a wheelchair by 

the time she was 30 as she had a double 

curvature of the spine. 

To help with her condition, they got her into 

swimming when she was five; by the time 

she was 12 years old, she was the fastest 

female swimmer for her age on the planet. 

She ended up going to the Olympics, 

winning a gold medal and bronze medal 

in 1956 as one of the Golden Girls alongside 

Dawn Fraser. She also worked in the 

family business until the mid ’90s, when 

she retired. 

My grandfather and grandmother were very 

determined – they built up an extremely good 

business over the years. We struggled a bit in 

the ’70s and early ’80s, but since then we've 

gone from strength to strength. 

I purchased half the business from my 

grandmother and the other half from my 

mother in the 1990s; it wasn't handed to me, 

I wanted to buy it. That's how it worked. 

When my grandparents started the business, 

jewellery stores were different than they are 

today; they were a bit of a 'jack of all trades'. 

Alongside jewellery and watches, we stocked 

Royal Doulton, Royal Albert, Limoges 

porcelain, Belleek pottery, Delft Blue 

giftware, stainless steel cookware, cutlery 

sets, pens, paintings – you name it! 

We phased out giftware from the early ’90s 

and over a period of 15 years, became purely 

a jewellery and timepieces store, which we 

remain to this day. 

My wife Anna joined the business in 2001 and 

this proved a game-changer for our growth. 

She has strengths I don’t, and vice versa. 

Anna has a business background and her 

eye for market trends and selecting fastselling 

stock is something to be seen! 

Anna’s involvement has allowed me to 

work ‘on the business’ rather than ‘in it’ 

which is a primary reason for our expansion 

to date. 

1928 

Johnstone Melmore 

Leech and wife Jessie 

establish JM Leech 

Jewellers in Bendigo 

1930 

The Great Depression 

begins, severely limiting 

JM Leech Jewellers’ stock 

1941 

Johnstone and Jessie 

welcome their second 

daughter, Faith, after 

losing their first-born 

1942 

Johnstone serves in 

World War II; Jessie 

continues to run the store 

while he is away 

1956 

Faith Leech wins gold 

and bronze medals at 

the Melbourne Olympics, 

then joins the family 

business 

1973 

A major renovation of the 

store is completed 

1986 

Faith’s son Adam Tuohy 

begins working in the 

business and starts 

phasing out giftware 

to focus solely on fine 

jewellery and timepieces 

1993-1999 

Adam purchases the 

business from Jessie 

and Faith 

1998 

The store is completely 

demolished and rebuilt, 

using the original 

leadlight but with an 

award-winning, modern, 

shopper-friendly design 

2001 

Adam marries Anna, who 

also joins the business 

2005 

A second location opens 

in Castlemaine, followed 

three years later by a 

third store in Echuca 

2012 

The original Bendigo 

location is given a fresh 

new look 

2016 

The fourth store opens 

in Maryborough 

Above: Adam and Anna Tuohy outside the 

Bendigo store in 2018 

When you boil it all down, if you look 

after the customer the rest takes care of 

itself. If you're honest and do what you 

say you're going to do, you earn repeat 

business and referrals. 

We're in an industry where the lifetime 

value of a customer is massive; they 

start with kids' jewellery and the first 

watch, right through to engagement, 

wedding, anniversaries, milestone 

birthdays – the works. 

We have customers whose great-greatgrandmothers 

got their engagement 

rings from my grandfather. Having said 

that, of course, you're only as good as your 

last game! 

Our second store opened in 2005, and we 

now have four locations; we always say 

we're not going to have any more, but 

opportunities come up and we end up 

opening another! 

We are very proud – extremely proud – of 

our history. We are the oldest jewellers in 

Bendigo and that's something no-one can 

take away from us. We're the ‘last man 

standing’, and we've been in our position 

in Hargreaves Street – now Hargreaves 

Mall – since 1928 and no-one else is even 

close to that. 

Our kids may or may not want to be 

involved with the business. If they do, 

that's awesome and if they don't, t 

hat's fine too. But I jealously guard 

our heritage, so it is something that 

I want to keep going. 

Read the full length interview 

on Jewellermagazine.com 


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Harriet Kelsall Bespoke Jewellery 

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4Who is the target market and how did they 

influence the store design? 

We pride ourselves on designing for the individual, 

making narrowing down a ‘target market’ a little 

tricky. As bespoke design specialists, our team have 

the privilege of capturing unique personal stories, 

with many one-off designs reflecting the diversity of 

the people who commission them. 

The possibilities are truly endless and this concept 

flows through our store design. When you arrive 

at the studio, you will see our displays using real 

customer imagery – showcasing the unique and 

beautiful jewellery designs. 

The designers’ desks hold sketchbooks, pencils 

and drawing boards on which we proudly display 

our customers’ thank-you cards, and we encourage 

discussion, through our displays and cabinets, 

on everything from computer-aided design to 

responsibly sourced gemstones to Fairtrade gold. 

4With the relationship between store 

ambience and consumer purchasing in mind, 

which features in the store encourage sales? 

We don’t employ salespeople; the studio is staffed 

by our designers who offer knowledge, experience, 

and a passion for individual design rather than a 

‘hard sell’ and our customers value the relaxed 

atmosphere that we have cultivated over the years. 

As an open, honest, and transparent business, we 

frequently hold meetings in our glass meeting room 

which sits on our shopfloor. 

Our jewellery is also made by our team of 

goldsmiths in their fully equipped workshop, just 

downstairs from the design studio. We call it ‘the 

goldsmith’s bowl’ because of its glass sides for our 

customers to see them all hard at work! 

4What is the store design’s ‘wow factor’? 

Our Jewellery Centre in Hall's Green is an 

award-winning Tudor barn conversion set in rural 

Hertfordshire. At 3,500 sq ft, it’s an impressive 

space that houses our design studio, workshop and 

ready-to-wear collections! 

The incredible space works as the main hub for our 

two other ‘High Street’ design studios which can be 

found in Cambridge and Primrose Hill in London. 


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Completing my Diploma in 

Gemmology has benefited 

me as a jeweller in more 

ways than I ever expected. 

I have always had an interest 

in gemstones and found 

the course was not only 

informative and challenging 

but immensely rewarding. 

Studying with the GAA has also 

allowed me to meet like-minded 

people from many facets of the 

jewellery industry and grants me access 

to resources that I will continue to use 

throughout my professional career. 

Emma Meakes FGAA 

Jeweller, John Miller Design - WA 

Diploma in 

Gemmology 

Enrolments now open 

For more information 

1300 436 338 

learn@gem.org.au 

www.gem.org.au 

Be 

Brilliant 

Gem-Ed Australia 

ADELAIDE BRISBANE HOBART MELBOURNE PERTH SYDNEY 

Passionately educating the industry, gem enthusiasts 

and consumers about gemstones

REVIEW 

Gems 

Unusual Opals Part II: Boulder & Matrix Opal 

L to R: Linneys earrings; Opal Minded 

necklace; Cartier bracelet Below: 

Cartier ring; Katherine Jetter ring 

Australia – the home of opal – is well known 

the world over for black and white opal 

specimens; however, boulder and matrix 

opals are a huge part of the Australian opal 

industry and only increasing in popularity. 

So, what’s the difference between them? 

The classification of natural opal depends 

on the relationship between the opal itself 

and the host rock in which it forms. 

The more well-known black and white 

opals are termed ‘natural type 1’ 

and feature solely the opal itself, of a 

reasonably homogenous composition. 

In contrast, boulder opal is ‘natural type 

2’, a single piece of opal that remains 

naturally attached to its host rock. 

Matrix opal, on the other hand, is ‘natural 

type 3’, in which opal snakes through 

pores and grains and/or fills holes within 

the host rock – think 'in' rock, as opposed 

to boulder opal being 'on' rock. 

Generally, natural type 1 opal is the most 

valuable, followed by natural type 2, then 

natural type 3. 

Boulder and matrix opal are both a type 

of sedimentary opal. 

The host rock depends on where it 

comes from – sandstone or ironstone 

for Queensland opal specimens, and 

quartzite, sandstone, or claystone for 

those from Andamooka, South Australia. 

The formation of opal is a complex 

curiosity, highly debated among geologists 

and scientists. 

There have been many hypotheses 

produced over the years, with most 

controversy and debate happening in 

more recent times. 

What is agreed is the necessity of certain 

factors for the formation of opal – a source 

of silica, availability of water, the right 

chemical and geological conditions, and 

adequate time. 

Most of the major opal-producing fields 

across Australia have a similar geological 

setting, consisting of a thick layer of 

sandstone atop a layer of clay. 

The most generally accepted hypothesis 

of opal formation is known as the ‘deep 

weathering theory’, in which water 

flows through the top sandstone layer, 

picking up silica and continuing down 

through cracks and crevices to the 

bottom clay layer. 

There, the now silica-rich solution is 

deposited, forming opal. 

The well-known ‘Yowah nut’ opals from 

Queensland are believed to form in this 

way. Yowah nuts are small boulder opals 

that resemble tree nuts, with a precious 

or common opal centre surrounded by an 

outer layer of ironstone. 

All Queensland boulder opal and matrix 

opal from Andamooka formed during 

the Cretaceous period, 60–144 million 

years ago. 

Andamooka matrix opal is known for being 

treated to appear darker through a simple 

process involving infusing the opal with a 

Boulder & 

Matrix Opal 

Named for the way the 

opal forms and enjoins 

the host rock 

Colour: Multiple 

Found in: Australia, 

Honduras, Mexico 

Mohs Hardness: 5–6.5 

Class: Silicate 

Lustre: Subvitreous 

Formula: SiO 2 

.nH 2 

O 

sugar-rich solution, followed by boiling in 

concentrated sulphuric acid. 

This results in carbonised sugar 

throughout the matrix which turns the 

specimen black and brilliantly highlights 

play-of-colour, imitating black opal. 

Other methods of producing a similar 

result have also been reported. 

An interesting opal triplet imitating natural 

boulder opal has also been noted. Triplets 

are a type of composite opal involving a 

thin piece of natural opal between a dark 

backing and domed quartz or glass. 

In this instance, a piece of crystal opal sits 

atop a black layer, followed by an unevenly 

joined piece of what is believed to be a 

resin and ground boulder matrix mix. 

The fourth and final layer is a solid 

piece of natural boulder matrix, with 

veins of precious opal. According to the 

manufacturer, these imitants are made in 

Hong Kong using Coober Pedy crystal opal 

and Queensland boulder opal. 

Mikaelah Egan FGAA Dip DT 

began her career in the industry at 

Diamonds of Distinction in 2015. She now 

balances her role as a gemmologist at 

Vault Valuations in Brisbane with studying 

geology at the University of Queensland. 

Visit instagram.com/mikaelah.egan 

For more information on gems and 

gemmology ,go to www.gem.org.au 


IN-DEPTH FEATURE 

Lab-Created Diamonds 

THE LAB-GROWN 

DIAMOND REPORT 

ALL THAT 

GLITTERS 

The past three years have seen the lab-created 

diamond category expand and develop, though 

not all have embraced it – yet, writes 

ARABELLA RODEN. 

DIAMOND FOUNDRY CAMPAIGN

IN-DEPTH FEATURE | Lab-Created Diamonds 

BY THE NUMBERS 

Lab-Grown 

Diamond Trends 

T 

hree years on from the ‘watershed’ year of 

2018, when natural diamond juggernaut 

De Beers introduced Lightbox Jewelry, 

the lab-created diamond category has gone from 

strength to strength. 

Kimai 

“Over the past few years, lab-grown diamonds have 

monumentally changed the diamond jewellery landscape, 

forever,” says Craig Miller, a second generation diamantaire 

and CEO of JC Jewels – one of the first diamond suppliers in 

Australia to embrace the lab-created category. 

“From the consumer's point of view, De Beers entering the 

lab-grown space accelerated acceptance, engagement, and 

validation. From there, consumer demand and engagement 

pushed retailers to engage, and now we watch as lab-grown 

diamonds become mainstream,” Miller observes. 

Miriam Neubauer, director Grown Diamonds, confirms 

that consumer awareness of lab-created diamonds has 

significantly improved. 

“Two years ago, consumers did not know the difference 

between diamond simulants, such as cubic zirconia, and 

lab-grown diamonds; however, today they are a lot more 

educated and researched and understand that they are 

optically, physically and chemically identical – with the only 

difference being their origin,” she tells Jeweller. 

This is reflected not only in Australia, but globally. Phil 

Edwards, managing director of Duraflex Group Australia, 

which distributes the Swarovski Created Diamonds range, 

says, “The fact that a global brand such as Swarovski has 

launched their own Created Diamonds collection speaks 

highly to the significance and importance of this category. 

“We strongly feel that consumer demand for more 

affordable and sustainable product, without compromising 

on actual diamond quality, is a market trend that will 

continue to grow and will have a positive impact on the 

trajectory of this category.” 

Meanwhile, Catherine Martin, head of communications at 

US-headquartered Diamond Foundry, notes “a massive 

increase in consumer interest and demand for lab-grown 

diamonds; virtually overnight people have come to accept 

this new category of product.” 

$5.2bn 

estimated value 

of the lab-created 

diamond jewellery 

market, in US 

Dollars, by 2023 

Paul Zimnisky analysis 

50–60% 

proportion of the 

world's lab-created 

diamonds that are 

manufactured in 

China 

Bain & Co. 

80% 

of consumers 

are aware of labcreated 

diamonds, 

compared with 

less than 10 per 

cent in 2012 

The MVEye 

6–7m 

carats of labcreated 

diamonds 

produced in 2020 

Bain & Co. 

$1,500 

retail price 

per carat, in 

US Dollars, 

for Lightbox 

Jewelry's new 

Finest range 

Anabela Chan 

Indeed, a study conducted by marketing firm The MVEye – 

formerly MVI Marketing – in 2020 found that 80 per cent of 

consumers surveyed were aware of lab-made diamonds, 

compared with less than 10 per cent in 2012. 

Martin observes that new demand is coming from previously 

untouched categories, such as the high-end watch market; 

meanwhile, major vertically-integrated retailers such as 

Pandora have launched dedicated lab-created collections to 

capitalise on consumers' desire for the product. 

Meanwhile, lab-created diamond production reached 

between 6–7 million carats last year, according to The 

Global Diamond Industry 2020–21: Brilliant Under Pressure, 

a report authored by business strategy and research 

consultancy Bain & Co. 

Lab-created diamond production 

reached between 6–7 million 

carats last year... That figure is still 

dwarfed by the natural diamond 

category; Bain & Co. estimated 111 

million carats of natural diamonds 

were produced in 2020" 

That figure is still dwarfed by the natural diamond 

category; Bain & Co. estimated 111 million carats of 

natural diamonds were produced in 2020, largely as a 

result of the COVID-19 pandemic; between 2010–2018, 

global production averaged approximately 130 million 

carats, with a peak of 152 million in 2017. 

However, production capacity continues to rise, with the 

Brilliant Under Pressure report noting a “double-digit” 

increase in 2020 compared with 2019, and a 15-20 per cent 

increase between 2018 and 2019. 

This growth is largely driven by expanded production in China, 

where the majority – approximately 50 to 60 per cent – of the 

world’s lab-created diamonds are manufactured, using the 

high-pressure, high-temperature (HPHT) method; however, 

the US and India are “emerging as major production centres” 

using chemical vapour deposition (CVD) techniques. 


Lab-Created Diamonds | IN-DEPTH FEATURE 

Diamond Foundry 

Kimai 

Diamond Foundry, which uses a proprietary CVD 

mechanism in order to produce its lab-created diamonds, 

recently announced plans for a new €740 million solarpowered 

production facility in Spain. 

The factory will have an estimated capacity of 10 million 

carats, a proportion of which will be used for jewellery. 

Diamond Foundry is also planning an expansion of its 

hydro-powered US factory, while its jewellery retailer, Vrai, 

has recently opened stores in Shanghai and Los Angeles, 

with “more to come,” says Martin. 

Meanwhile, Element Six – De Beers’ lab-created diamond 

manufacturing division, which supplies Lightbox Jewelry 

– opened a $US94 million new factory in the US state of 

Oregon in October 2020. 

While consumer awareness 

and demand for lab-created 

diamonds has come a long way 

in recent years, many believe 

the most pressing challenge is 

still education" 

The new facility will support Lightbox’s recent introduction 

of white, pink and blue lab-created diamonds up to 

including 2 carat sizes, and the Finest range of VVS D–F 

Excellent cut lab-created diamonds, priced at $US1,500 

per carat – which it noted was “well below” current prices. 

The Finest product line is the result of a new proprietary 

engineering process developed by Element Six, combining 

existing CVD technology with a further refinement process 

that enhances colour in stones. 

Speaking to Jeweller, Steve Coe, CEO Lightbox Jewelry, 

said, “For now, our focus is on growing and expanding 

the Lightbox business. Our new state-of-the-art 

manufacturing facility in Portland, Oregon came on 

line at the end of last year and gives us the capacity to 

dramatically scale up our distribution to consumers in the 

coming months. 

Phil Edwards 

Duraflex Group Australia 

"We strongly feel that consumer 

demand for more affordable and 

sustainable product, without 

compromising on actual diamond 

quality, is a market trend that 

will continue to grow and will 

have a positive impact on the 

trajectory of this category." 

Craig Miller 

JC Jewels 

"From the consumer's point 

of view, De Beers entering the 

lab-grown space accelerated 

acceptance, engagement, 

and validation. From there, 

consumer demand and 

engagement pushed retailers to 

engage, and now we watch as 

lab-grown diamonds become 

mainstream." 

Catherine Martin 

Diamond Foundry 

"[There has been] a massive 

increase in consumer interest 

and demand for lab-grown 

diamonds; virtually overnight 

people have come to accept 

this new category of product." 

“This includes both growing our own e-commerce 

platform lightboxjewelry.com and also substantially 

expanding the list of retail partners that we supply. You 

can expect to see a lot more of Lightbox in the months and 

years ahead.” 

He added, “We have seen a noticeable trend toward larger 

sizes and higher qualities and we are leading the way here.” 

Yet while the lab-created category appears to be on a 

positive trajectory, challenges persist. 

Knowledge and numbers 

While consumer awareness and demand for lab-created 

diamonds has come a long way in recent years, many 

believe the most pressing challenge is still education, 

with several contributors observing that the market is 

rife with “misinformation”. 

“We find many consumers remain relatively unaware of 

what a lab-grown diamond is and there is clearly still 

a requirement to provide education and information to 

consumers,” says Coe. 

“While it is the same material with the same optical and 

physical properties as a natural diamond, the great value 

proposition for Lightbox lab-grown diamonds is that they 

offer consumers exceptional quality at a very accessible 

price point, allowing the consumer to make informed 

purchase decisions.” 

Miller shares similar insights, pointing to a definite “lack 

of consumer education”. 

“If you search lab-grown diamonds on Google – which is 

where the customer journey begins for many – there is 

limited information and education online, and much of 

what is found can be misleading, partially derived from a 

disconnect with the mined sector and the lab-grown side,” 

he explains. 

According to a 2021 survey of more than 1,000 consumers 

aged 25–60, conducted by US jewellery industry 

organisation The Plumb Club, 79 per cent of consumers 

said that they were aware of lab-grown diamonds and 

their use in fine jewellery – yet 41 per cent did not know 

how they differed from natural stones. 


IN-DEPTH FEATURE | Lab-Created Diamonds 

MARKET MOVEMENTS ON HOME SHORES 

LAB-CREATED DIAMONDS DOWN UNDER 

Globally, lab-created diamonds account for 

approximately 3 per cent of diamond sales, with 

the US the largest retail market. 

“The US had a head start over Australia and Europe 

with the selling of lab-grown diamonds,” says 

Miriam Neubauer, director of Grown Diamonds. 

“They were the pioneers to push the sales into 

the general public and get the ‘word out’ there. 

Australia followed suit about two years later and 

we have noticed a dramatic increase in sales 

over the past two years,” she explains. 

Notably, the Michael Hill jewellery chain began 

trialling lab-created diamonds at a Queensland 

store in late 2019, and introduced a range of 

lab-created diamond engagement rings – with 

stones manufactured by Fenix Diamonds – later 

that year. Its current lab-created offering also 

includes earrings. 

Lightbox Jewelry currently ships to Australia 

via its ecommerce website, as does Diamond 

Foundry’s Vrai. 

Craig Miller, CEO of JC Jewels – one of the 

first suppliers in Australia to embrace the 

lab-grown category – says the local market 

has great potential. 

Globally, lab-created 

diamonds account for 

approximately 3 per cent of 

diamond sales, with the US 

the largest retail market" 

“Australia is following the US, but six to 12 

months behind. Consumers are engaging and 

welcoming this new choice, and we are seeing 

growing demand, but it is still early days.” 

Edwards believes Australia has been slower than 

the US and Europe to “accept and embrace the 

lab-grown product”, with the market still smaller 

on a “pro-rata percentage”. 

However, he predicts “strong growth of this 

category” as lab-created diamonds become 

more widely available and accepted – 

”Particularly given consumer demand is now 

directly driving the category and supply of more 

sustainable and affordable products with equal 

quality,” he adds. 

Adds Miller, “Lab-grown is here to stay; in the 

future I see most Australian retailers offering 

lab-grown and mined diamonds side by side. 

It will reach the point when retailers’ inventory 

management, ranging, marketing strategy, staff 

training, and staff delivery will incorporate labgrown 

diamonds with importance and respect 

equal to mined diamonds.” 

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Moi Moi Fine Jewellery Kimai JC Jewels 

This indicates further resources should be allocated toward 

educating consumers. 

Miller also believes retailers are “lacking much-needed 

education within the Australian and New Zealand market, 

where lab-grown diamonds are fast growing in popularity.” 

Neubauer says some jewellers remain “not open-minded” 

and “refuse to sell lab-grown diamonds to their consumers”. 

Others across the industry have noted misconceptions about 

the differences between HPHT and CVD, and the types of 

post-growth treatments applied to the stones. 

Edwards says the “ongoing education process is absolutely 

key, in addition to increasing the availability of the product 

across Australia.” 

Despite the decline in both 

production costs and retail prices, 

wholesale prices of lab-created 

diamonds remained stable 

throughout 2020, resulting in a 

contraction in the margins of traders 

and jewellery manufacturers" 

“Historically, the main challenge was regarding the 

misconception or rather limited awareness of the quality 

of lab-grown diamonds and not enough price differential to 

natural diamonds,” he explains. 

“However, there’s currently a definite shift as consumers are 

becoming more educated about the lab-creation process and 

the identical properties of diamonds and lab-grown diamonds, 

whilst the price has reduced and now plateaued." 

Notably, price has been a sticking point for the lab-created 

diamond category since its inception. 

Speaking to US jewellery industry publication JCK Online 

recently, diamond industry analyst Edahn Golan commented, 

“We see continued demand and a continued decrease in 

prices. What we’re seeing is the sort of “ills” we’re suffering 

from in the natural diamond industry. 

Alexander Lacik 

Pandora 

"[Lab-grown diamonds] 

are as much a symbol of 

innovation and progress 

as they are of enduring 

beauty and stand as 

a testament to our 

ongoing and ambitious 

sustainability agenda." 

Miriam Neubauer 

Grown Diamonds 

"People were afraid that 

lab-grown diamond sales 

would overtake natural 

diamond sales. However, 

it has become more clear 

that both natural and 

lab-grown diamonds can 

be marketed side-byside, 

targeting different 

demographics." 

Brett Bolton 

Biron Laboratory Grown 

Diamonds 

"When selling these stones, 

retailers have to focus on the 

benefit of the price and the 

fact that they will not scratch 

or change colour over time – 

not that they are ‘a cheaper 

diamond.'" 

"A lot of goods are supplied on memo, there’s stiff competition 

between wholesalers, and, in addition to that, we’re seeing the 

elements that are typical of a technologically driven item: 

For example, the cost of production is going down.” 

According to Bain & Co.’s analysis, the retail price of a 

1-carat, G colour, VS-clarity lab-created diamond fell to 

only 35 per cent of an equivalent mined diamond in 2020; in 

2019 and 2018 this figure was 50 per cent, and in 2017 it was 

65 per cent. 

Other types of diamond boasted even greater disparities, 

with the price-difference between equivalent lab-created and 

natural fancy colour diamonds as great as 1,000 per cent. 

And despite the decline in both production costs and retail 

prices, wholesale prices of lab-created diamonds remained 

stable throughout 2020, resulting in a contraction in the 

margins of traders and jewellery manufacturers. 

The affordability of lab-created 

diamonds has made them accessible 

to new consumers – a trend most 

evident in the fancy colour diamond 

space, where extremely rare and 

precious pinks and blues are 

beyond the financial means 

of most consumers" 

Still, diamond industry analyst Paul Zimnisky wrote in 2020, 

"When analysing the wholesale and retail prices of unbranded 

man-made and natural diamonds, it appears that the retail 

gross margin of man-made diamonds in popular carat-sizes 

is as much as 1.8 times that of natural diamonds." 

Golan told JCK Online, “[Retailers are] doing everything to 

protect their margin. 

“So, if producers raise prices on a certain item, then they’ll 

raise prices to consumers. On the other hand, if wholesalers 

are reducing prices, then retailers are more flexible on 

pricing, too. So consumers are enjoying it.” 


Inset: Diamond Foundry 

L to R: Anabela Chan; Pandora 

Brett Bolton, director Biron Laboratory Grown Diamonds, 

explains, “The price falling is great for the fashion side of the 

market, but concerning for some if using them 

for engagement rings or as a 2-carat option to a 

natural diamond.” 

However, lower prices are not necessarily a negative, with 

numerous advantages and sales strategies that retailers 

can employ. 

Bolton says, “When selling these stones, retailers have to 

focus on the benefit of the price and the fact that they will 

not scratch or change colour over time – not that they are 

‘a cheaper diamond’.” 

Bolton notes that price pressures have also sparked 

innovation in the lab-created category, leading to “more 

experimental colours, shapes and also growth techniques”. 

Says Diamond Foundry’s Martin, “We are in constant 

pursuit of creating a better diamond – ever larger and 

ever higher quality. We have not yet cracked the D colour 

level for larger diamonds; it is still incredibly hard to 

achieve the highest quality levels of diamond using the 

most advanced technology.” 

New horizons, new opportunities 

The affordability of lab-created diamonds has made them 

accessible to new consumers – a trend most evident in 

the fancy colour diamond space where extremely rare and 

precious pinks and blues are beyond the financial means of 

most consumers. 

“We believe there is a great opportunity in coloured lab-grown 

diamonds and offer our stones in beautiful pink and blue 

hues,” says Coe. 

“Coloured natural diamonds are hugely expensive and 

effectively out of financial reach for the vast majority of 

consumers. Lightbox coloured lab-grown diamonds offer 

consumers the opportunity to own these spectacular stones 

at an accessible price point for the very first time.” 

Many in the diamond industry consider the natural home of 

lab-created stones to be in fashion jewellery, gifting, and selfpurchase 

– Bolton calls fashion jewellery a driver of “massive 

growth” – with engagement, bridal, and luxury reserved for 

natural diamonds. 

Steve Coe 

Lightbox Jewelry 

"It is now clear that the great 

quality of lab-grown diamonds 

and the far more accessible 

price point opens up the 

opportunity for more frequent 

gifting and self-purchase." 

Iris Van der Veken 

Responsible Jewellery Council 

"Setting a standard for LGMs 

is an important strategic 

initiative by RJC, underlining 

our commitment to ensure 

that all jewellery is responsibly 

sourced, manufactured and 

marketed. It is all about 

consumer confidence." 

Edahn Golan 

Diamond Industry Analyst 

"We see continued demand 

and a continued decrease in 

prices. What we’re seeing is 

the sort of 'ills' we’re suffering 

from in the natural diamond 

industry. A lot of goods are 

supplied on memo, there’s 

stiff competition between 

wholesalers, and, in addition 

to that, we’re seeing the 

elements that are typical of a 

technologically driven item." 

Observes Lightbox Jewelry’s Coe, “It is now clear that the 

great quality of lab-grown diamonds and the far more 

accessible price point opens up the opportunity for more 

frequent gifting and self-purchase. 

"That’s where we see the really exciting opportunity for labgrown 

diamonds to develop a genuinely additive jewellery 

business which takes share from other luxury/fashion 

products – such as accessories and handbags. 

He adds, “We are seeing the category expand as other brands 

recognise this opportunity in the fashion space.” 

Pandora Jewelry – the world’s largest jewellery company by 

volume – introduced its first range centred on lab-created 

diamonds, Pandora Brilliance, earlier this year. 

The decision to simultaneously publicise the phasing out 

of natural diamond jewellery – which made up a tiny 

fraction of its overall production – was calculated to take 

advantage of growing consumer sentiment for sustainable 

and ethical products. 

Pandora Jewelry – the world’s largest 

jewellery company by volume – 

introduced its first range centred 

on lab-created diamonds, Pandora 

Brilliance, earlier this year" 

Alexander Lacik, CEO Pandora, said at the time, “I’m 

proud to announce the introduction of Pandora Brilliance. 

It’s a new collection of beautifully designed jewellery 

featuring lab-created diamonds. They are as much a symbol 

of innovation and progress as they are of enduring beauty 

and stand as a testament to our ongoing and ambitious 

sustainability agenda.” 

The company commissioned corporate governance 

firm Sphera to provide an independent third-party 

assessment of the CVD lab-created diamond production 

process, from raw materials to synthesis, cutting and 

polishing, and transportation. 

The Sphera report found that electricity consumption during 

synthesis was responsible for “more than 90 per cent” of total 



L to R: New World Diamonds; 


CO 2 

emissions “in most scenarios”; the emissions per carat 

could range from 612kg for a lab-created diamond produced 

in India, to 17kg for one produced in Europe using 100 per 

cent renewable energy. 

A 2019 report commissioned by the Diamond Producers 

Association – now the Natural Diamond Council – estimated 

that natural diamonds produce 160kg CO 2 

per carat. 

Pandora said it expects the lab-created diamonds in the 

Brilliance range to be manufactured using 100 per cent 

renewable energy by 2022. 

Of course, the ecological credentials of the entire lab-created 

sector are far more difficult to objectively quantify, varying 

greatly across different manufacturers. 

Consumers 'consistently identify the 

sustainable, eco-friendly message 

of lab-grown diamonds to be frontof-mind', 

while the most compelling 

purchasing trigger is the 'ability to 

trade up in diamond size and quality 

for the same price as a smaller 

mined diamond" 

Still, many lab-created diamond producers remain committed 

to achieving transparent and sustainable supply chains. 

Says Diamond Foundry’s Martin, “There is a lot more demand 

than supply. Meeting this demand, and doing so sustainably, 

continues to drive us. 

"Sustainability and respecting the Earth’s resources are core 

attributes of our business, and we have focused our growth 

on sites with 100 per cent renewable power.” 

Another US-based producer, WD Lab Grown Diamonds, 

was the first manufacturer to be certified by SCS Global 

Services – an international standards development business 

specialising in sustainability and quality performance – under 

its Certification Standard for Sustainable Diamonds. 

A S A M AT TER OF FACT 

Lab-Grown 

Stats 

1.8x 

retail gross 

margin for labcreated 

diamonds 

compared with 

natural diamonds in 

'popular' carat sizes 

Paul Zimnisky analysis 

41% 

proportion of 

consumers who 

do not know the 

difference between 

mined and labcreated 

diamonds 

The Plumb Club 

35% 

retail price of 

lab-created 1-carat 

G colour VSclarity 

diamond, 

relative to a mined 

diamond of equal 

quality, in 2020 

Bain & Co. 

This grants WD Lab Grown Diamonds third-party 

authorisation to use the claim of 'Certified Sustainable' 

and 'Certified Climate Neutral' for their products. 

Miller believes this is positive for the industry as a whole, 

having "introduced new levels of transparency". 

From a consumer perspective, Neubauer observes that labcreated 

diamonds are considered to be a “great alternative for 

those on a budget, for those who are eco-conscious and those 

who are ethically conscious”. 

Recent consumer research conducted by The MVEye – 

formerly MVI Marketing – found that consumers “consistently 

identify the sustainable, eco-friendly message of lab-grown 

diamonds to be front-of-mind”, while the most compelling 

purchasing trigger is the “ability to trade up in diamond size 

and quality for the same price as a smaller mined diamond”. 

Competition or complementary? 

When lab-created diamonds first entered the jewellery 

category, debate raged over the impact they would have on 

the natural category. 

“In the beginning, it felt like it was a competition between the 

two,” Neubauer observes.“People were afraid that lab-grown 

diamond sales would overtake natural diamond sales. However, 

it has become more clear that both natural and lab-grown 

diamonds can be marketed side-by-side, targeting different 

demographics,” she says. 

Adds Bolton, “When lab-grown diamonds were first 

introduced to the market, we had many jewellers and 

competitors say, ‘We will never stock them.’ 

“Today, we have found that almost everyone accepts there is a 

place in the market for these stones – and for more than half 

a place in the store as well!” 

Edwards notes that the perception of the lab-grown category 

versus natural diamonds – and the willingness to stock them 

– “depends on the individual retail store and what message 

they wish to convey to their customers.” 

“Now that pricing has stabilised and the education around 

quality is more established, this relationship can be more 

easily defined and separated within the individual retail stores,” 

he adds. 


Swarovski Created Diamonds


L to R: Miadonna; 

Moi Moi Fine Jewellery 

Lightbox Jewelry 

Still, skirmishes have occurred throughout this 

year, largely focused on advertising terminology 

and ethical claims. 

In February, the Natural Diamond Council 

(NDC) referred Diamond Foundry and its 

jewellery brand, Vrai, to US advertising 

watchdog the National Advertising Division 

(NAD), challenging descriptions and 

nomenclature used in digital marketing. 

“NAD determined that Diamond Foundry must, 

consistent with the Federal Trade Commission 

(FTC) Jewelry Guides, make an effective disclosure 

that its diamonds are man-made. NAD further 

found that, consistent with the FTC Jewelry Guides 

and the FTC Dot Com Disclosure publication, 

the advertiser should distinguish its [lab-grown 

diamonds] from mined diamonds,” a NAD 

statement read. 

The following month, NAD acted upon a complaint 

by Diamond Foundry against the NDC over 

claims that natural mined diamonds produce 

“three times less carbon emissions” than labcreated 

diamonds. 

NAD found that the NDC’s evidence for this claim 

was “not sufficiently reliable” and “concerned 

that such claims conveyed a broader implied 

message about the overall environmental benefits 

of mined diamonds versus man-made diamonds”, 

recommending it remove the claim alongside 

online advertising that referred to the “scarcity of 

mined diamonds [and] the resale value of mined 

diamonds versus man-made diamonds”. 

The body also determined that the NDC’s use 

of the term “real” to describe mined diamonds 

could, in context, incorrectly imply that lab-created 

diamonds had different chemical or physical 

properties to mined diamonds, and that consumers 

“may incorrectly conflate [lab-created diamonds], 

such as Diamond Foundry’s, with imitation 

diamonds like moissanite and cubic zirconia”. 

In May, organisations including the NDC, 

CIBJO, the World Diamond Council (WDC), the 

Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC), and the 

International Diamond Manufacturers Association 

publicly called for Pandora Jewelry to retract 

elements of its statement announcing its decision 

to stop stocking natural diamonds. 

While calling the Pandora Brilliance range a 

“positive expansion of the jewellery industry”, 

the organisations explained, “The misleading 

narrative created by the Pandora announcement 

implying the natural diamond industry is both less 

ethical and the impetus behind Pandora’s move 

to lab-grown diamonds, particularly given the 

inconsequential amount of diamonds Pandora 

features in its collections, can have unintended 

but substantial consequences on communities in 

developing nations.” 

It is clear that, while still 

small, the lab-created 

diamond category has 

potential, and offers jewellery 

retailers opportunities to 

appeal to new customers 

– without encroaching on 

existing diamond sales" 

According to research commissioned by the 

NDC – then known as the Diamond Producers 

Association – in 2019, diamond mining was 

found to create social benefits that the labcreated 

sector did not, including an estimated 

$US16 billion annually to communities, largely 

in developing nations, through direct employment, 

purchase of goods and services, and funding of 

social programs. 

Still, Diamond Foundry’s Martin says diamond 

mining companies are in a “difficult situation” as 

mining “necessarily depletes natural resources; it 

is by definition not sustainable”. 

“Recently, there have been important rulings in 

North America to increase clarity in the marketing 

of mined diamonds. Most importantly, there is a 

push to ensure transparency in the market, broad 

consumer choice, and awareness of where a 

diamond is from and the environmental impact,” 

she explains. 

Meanwhile, the RJC has recently announced that 

it will develop a best-practice standard specifically 

for 'lab-grown materials' (LGMs), beyond its 

existing Code of Practices. 

Iris Van der Veken, executive director of the 

RJC, said, “Setting a standard for LGMs is an 

important strategic initiative by RJC, underlining 

our commitment to ensure that all jewellery is 

responsibly sourced, manufactured and marketed. 

It is all about consumer confidence. 

“This standard will provide a clear, robust 

framework not only for manufacturers and 

retailers, but also for reassuring customers that 

the manufacturers and sellers of LGMs follow 

rigorous processes that ensure the credibility and 

transparency of their operations.” 

Observes Miller, “Every industry faces their 

challenges, and the mined space is being 

challenged by lab-grown. 

"Both mined and lab-grown need to push their 

strengths and see what appeals to each customer. 

Ongoing negative engagement between the two 

sides will only push consumers to spend their 

money in other industries.” 

Adds Edwards, “Reduced pricing, increased 

consumer demand and acceptance – with overall 

more general market awareness – highlights that 

lab-grown diamonds are fast becoming a core and 

essential category within the trade.” 

It is clear that, while still small, the lab-created 

diamond category has potential, and offers 

jewellery retailers opportunities to appeal to new 

customers – without encroaching on existing 

diamond sales. 


THE SHERLOCK HOLMES 2.0 

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CELEBRATING 

Local Talent 

TIQUE METALS 

‘Sybelle’ Pendant 

Metal: 9-carat yellow gold 

April Louise 

Brisbane, QLD 

ALETHEIA & 

PHOS 

Zodiac Necklace 

Metals: (Left) 

14-carat gold-plated 

sterling silver; (right) 

rhodium-plated 

sterling silver 

Gemstones: 

Sapphire, ruby 

Alicia Millan 

Melbourne, VIC 

MIA SAVAGE 

DESIGNS 

'Oracle' Earrings 

Metal: Sterling 

silver 

Gemstone: 

Boulder opal 

Mia Savage 

Byron Bay, NSW 

Australia and New Zealand are not only home to some of the 

rarest gemstones in the world, but also the most talented jewellers. 

Jeweller showcases a tapestry of local masterpieces that have been 

meticulously crafted with great artisanship, right here on home soil 

BENJAMIN ROSE 

FINE JEWELLERY 

Hand Engraved 

Signet Ring 

Metal: 9-carat yellow gold 

Benjamin Rose 


ARBOR 

BRUNSWICK 

'Gold Slide' Drop 

Earrings 

Metal: 9-carat 

yellow gold 

Susan McGinness 

Canberra, ACT 


MINERALEIR 

‘Art Collector’ 

Hoop Earrings 

Metal: Rhodiumplated 


Gemstones: 

Brown diamond, 

smoky quartz, 

and citrine 

Natalie Triglone 

Sydney, NSW 

SARAH & 

SEBASTIAN 

‘Gossamer’ 

Hoops 


yellow gold 

Gemstone: 

White diamond 

Sarah Munro 

& Robert 

Sebastian 

Grynkofki 

Sydney, NSW 

MANUELA 

IGREJA 

JEWELS 

'Tussie Mussie 

C Studs' 

Earrings 

Metals: 18-carat 

yellow goldplated 


Gemstone: 

White sapphire 

Manuela Igreja 


WHITE 

NOVEMBER 

'BB (Boss Babe)' 

Signet Ring 

Metal: Silver 

Gemstones: Labcreated 

emerald, 

Australian white opal, 

and rose quartz 

Bianca Librandi 


TONI MAY 

'Cosmic 

Diamond Art 

Deco' Ring 


white gold 

Gemstones: Black 

and grey diamond 

Laura Byrne 

Sydney, NSW 

E.G.ETAL 

‘Garden of the 

Beloved’ Ring 


yellow gold 

Gemstones: Sapphire, 

tourmaline, and 

champagne diamond 

Emma Goodsir 


ANASTASIA 

MANNIX 

JEWELLERY 

Tourmaline 

Heart Signet 

Ring 


yellow gold 

Gemstone: 

Tourmaline 

Anastasia Mannix 



GERMANY 

Timesupply 

jewellery + watches 

p +61 (0)8 8221 5580 

sales@timesupply.com.au | timesupply.com.au 

exclusive distributor AU & NZ

CLOSER TO NATURE 

Timesupply 

jewellery + watches 

p +61 (0)8 8221 5580 

sales@timesupply.com.au | coeurdelionjewellery.com.au 

exclusive distributor AU & NZ

Champagne & Cognac 

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ADVERTISING PROMOTION 

Christmas Stock Special 

CHRISTMAS 

READY 

In lieu of the annual jewellery trade fair due to 

COVID-19, Jeweller has worked with suppliers 

for a marketing and advertising promotion to 

inspire and delight your customers. Ensure your 

store is well-prepared ahead of the all-important 

Christmas and New Year shopping period. 


Christmas Ready | 2021 HOLIDAY STOCK SPECIAL 

Ania Haie 


Preparing for a stylish summer, Ania 

Haie’s new collections encapsulate the 

season’s hottest styles. The Forget Me 

Knot collection stems from the catwalk 

trend of knotted and netted materials. 

Exploring the use of shape and 

construction, it features contemporary 

chunky T-bar chains, knotted ear cuffs 

and sleek, stackable knot rings. 

aniahaie.com.au 

APDX 

SAMS Group Australia 

Australian Pink Diamond Exchange (APDX) 

is a world-first digital marketplace, made 

exclusively for Argyle pink diamond investors 

and traders. It is the one and only platform 

that facilitates safe and secure buying and 

selling of Argyle stones. 

australianpinkdiamondexchange.com.au 

Athan Imports 

athan.com.au 

Athan Imports 

presents Italianmade 

3–30-point 

tennis mounts, and 

delicate 9-carat 

and 18-carat white, 

yellow, and rose gold 

chains in a variety 

of on-trend and 

classic styles. 

Baume & Mercier 


Originally created in 1973, the iconic Riviera 

watch has been given a new lease on life 

this year. Revamped in green to express the 

energy, joie de vivre, and natural environment 

of its homeland – the Mediterranean coast – it 

retains the original’s distinctive dodecagonal 

bezel and streamlined steel case. 

baume-et-mercier.com/au 

Beco Technic 

The Battery Man 

Watch repair Christmas 

gifts for your own 

workshop! Assemble 

the hands of both wrist 

and pocket watches with 

precision using this tool 

German-made Beco 

Technic tool. 

thebatteryman.com.au 

Biron Laboratory Grown Diamonds 

Biron Laboratory Grown Diamonds embody 

all the beauty of a natural diamond, and 

have the same physical, chemical, and 

optical properties, without harming the 

environment. Explore the amazing and 

affordable range of jewellery, perfect for 

Christmas. Contact Biron for pricing and 

images on the full jewellery range. 

biron.com.au 


Australian Diamond 

Trading Company 

adtc.com.au 

Made from 9-carat 

white gold, these 

graduating open double 

teardrop earrings are 

set with 30 white pique 

diamonds with a total 

weight of 0.50 carats. 

These claw-set huggie 

earrings feature 10 

claw-set white diamonds 

with a total weight of 0.50 

carats. Also available in 

0.80 carat, 1 carat, or 1.50 

carat, set in 9-carat white 

gold with pique diamonds 

or 18-carat white gold 

with SI diamonds. 

The Blush Pink range is an epitome 

of charm and opulence intertwined 

together. Delicate and utterly 

elegant, it features affordable styles 

that retain an exquisite sense of 

rare luxury. 

Crafted in 9-carat white 

gold, this graduating 

open teardrop pendant 

features nine white pique 

diamonds with a total 

weight of 0.25 carats. 

Blush Pink Diamonds 


Own part of Australian history with 

Blush Pink Diamonds' jewellery. 

Our popular high-end pieces have 

been lovingly crafted into pieces 

for everyone to enjoy. All of our 

designs have been conceptualised 

and made with scrupulous attention 

to detail, and deliver an air of 

exceptional distinction. 

pinkkimberley.com.au 

Bronzallure 


The Alba Collection features 

nature’s most sought-after hues 

in contemporary designs, with new 

additions malachite, amazonite and 

red fossil wood. 

bronzallure.com 

E pink@samsgroup.com.au W samsgroup.com.au P 02 9290 2199


Cactus Smart Watches 

Avantco 

cactuswatches.com 

Cactus' new releases include 

smartwatches and fitness 

trackers for all ages. Featuring 

all the classic functions 

including dual-mode Bluetooth 

calls, message notifications, 

steps, and heart rate, they also 

track body temperature, blood 

pressure and blood oxygen. 

Stock up on 

popular Cactus Time 

Teacher watches for 

kids. These bestsellers 

are packed 

with child-friendly 

features. They are 

water resistant for 

swimming and have 

flexible, comfortable 

silicone bands, and 

specially-designed 

dials to help children 

learn how to tell clock 

time. The perfect first 

watch for kids! 

Chemgold 

The Petite Signet range of rings is perfect for 

gifting. Each ring can be personalised with 

laser engraving and is available in a range of 

alloys and colours, the most popular being 

9-carat yellow gold. The tops are 9mm at their 

widest and can be ordered in any finger size. 

chemgold.com 

Chiara Ferragni 

West End Collection 

Presenting the Diamond Heart Collection by 

Chiara Ferragni, the 'world's most powerful 

fashion influencer'. The collection features 

'90s-inspired pieces with Italian style and 

sophistication. The Heart Silver Chain 

Bracelet is embedded with crystal-cut stones 

along the length and 3-micron palladium 

platinum plating, finished with rhodium 

for high-sparkle elegance. It is the perfect 

accessory and finishing touch for any outfit. 

westendcollection.com.au 

Coeur de Lion Germany 

Timesupply 

This season it's all about colour! 

Vibrant petrol green graduates to blue 

Swarovski Crystals in this beautiful 

finer GeoCUBE style from Coeur de 

Lion. Handmade in Germany. 

coeurdelionjewellery.com.au 

Classique 


It’s never too late to get a matching set 

of his-and-hers watches from Classique. 

Featuring a Swiss-made movement with an 

exceptionally tasteful design, timepieces from 

Classique's Elegance Diamond Collection are 

the perfect gift for a sophisticated couple. 

classiquewatches.com 


Couture Kingdom 

couturekingdom.com 


x Streets Classics 

Couture Kingdom is proud to 

announce its new licence with 

the Streets Classics Collection. 

Inspired by Aussie childhood 

favourites Bubble O’Bill and 

Paddle Pop, these pop culture 

jewellery pieces pay tribute to 

summer memories and come in 

a broad selection of styles and 

price points, with the quality and 

detail expected from a Couture 

Kingdom collection. 

Couture Kingdom x Disney 

Part of the global Ultimate 

Princess Celebration comes the 

newest Disney range from Couture 

Kingdom, featuring The Little 

Mermaid, Cinderella, Princess 

Belle, Princess Tiana and Moana. 

Crafted in plated sterling silver, this 

collection boasts styles for Disney 

Princess fans of all ages, and makes 

for the perfect keepsake gift for a 

magical holiday season. 

www.westendcollection.com.au 

info@westendcollection.com.au 

Ph: 03 9553 3777


Cultured Jewellery Designs 

culturedjewellerydesigns.com 

This bracelet features stunning 

multi-toned pink freshwater pearls, 

sized 11–11.5mm, with magnetic 

clasp in rose gold-plated silver. 

Multi-toned natural pink 

freshwater pearls, sized 11– 

11.5mm, combine to create 

beautifully feminine effect 

in this necklace, joined with 

a delicate magnetic clasp in 

rose gold-plated silver. 

Complete the set with these 

11–11.5mm natural pink 

freshwater pearl stud earrings, 

crafted in 9-carat rose gold. 

D1 Milano 


The Skeleton Automatic is 

made for those who seek 

a bold style. It features 

a 41.5mm see-through 

case and stands out for 

its 24-jewel self-winding 

Japanese movement, 

enriched by a stainlesssteel 

bracelet. 


DJ Diamond Designs 

djdiamonddesigns.com.au 

A fresh take on traditional hoop 

earrings, these elegant 18-carat 

white gold diamond hoops have a 

sophisticated open design. Also 

available in rose or yellow gold. 

This beautiful 

18-carat white gold 

crossover dress ring 

is set with more 

than 1.70 carats of 

sparkling natural 

diamonds. Also 

available in 18-carat 

rose or yellow gold. 

A new addition to the DJ 

Diamond Designs range, 

this outstanding dress ring 

is crafted in 18-carat white, 

yellow and rose gold, set 

with shimmering diamonds. 

These stunning 18-carat drop 

earrings feature more than 7.30 

carats of natural diamonds, 

sapphires and emeralds. There 

is also an equally stunning 

matching pendant available. 

More than 3 carats of 

natural white diamonds 

adorn this splendid 18-carat 

white gold cross-over bangle. 


Dansk Copenhagen 

Timesupply 

A new addition to the everpopular 

Amber Collection 

is the new Amber Square 

necklace and bracelet. Like 

much of the Dansk jewellery 

range, this adaptable, textured 

necklace and bracelet set can 

be worn at different lengths. 

danskcopenhagen.com 

Diamonds by DGA 


Duraflex Group Australia is delighted 

to share the latest addition to the 

unbranded Diamonds by DGA 

range – 9-carat gold and diamond 

Initial Necklaces, available in yellow 

or white gold. The on-trend Initial 

Necklaces feature a single diamondencrusted 

letter pendant suspended 

on a fine chain. 

dgau.com.au 

DiamondsNRocks 

DiamondsNRocks presents four perfectly-matched, E-F colour diamonds 

with a total weight of 6 carats – ideal for a ring, earrings, and pendant set. 

DiamondsNRocks is an exclusive supplier of rough stones and matching 

sets, with a promise of the best diamonds at the best prices. 

diamondsnrocks.com.au 

FIND US ON INSTAGRAM 

MILLENNIUM_CHAIN 

Australian leading wholesaler, specialising in manufacturing 

9ct and 18ct yellow gold, rose gold and white gold. 

Machine made and hand made, any kind, chains and bracelets, 

bangles and findings. Suppliers to retailers and wholesalers. 

MILLENNIUM CHAIN 

P: 03 9650 5955 | E: sales@millenniumchain.com.au 

www.millenniumchain.com.au


Efva Attling Stockholm 

Nordic Fusion 

nordicfusion.com.au 

As one of Scandinavia’s most 

recognised designers and silversmiths, 

Efva Attling's jewellery embodies 

modern elegance with an edgy twist. The 

Rose Petal Collection from Efva Attling 

Stockholm is inspired by the Blue Moon 

rose growing in the designer’s garden. 

Available in 18-carat white or yellow gold, 

with or without brilliant cut diamonds. 

Efva Attling loves to 

send messages of female 

empowerment with her designs 

that often have a deeper 

meaning. The Women Power 

Collection is a tribute to all 

women! These earrings, crafted 

in sterling silver, are formed as 

a flash-shaped 'W' for women, 

with the word 'power' stamped 

on the side. 

Ellendale Diamonds 

ellendalediamonds.com.au 

Combining sophistication and 

style, this trilogy ring features 

diamond-set shoulders, with a 

curved, open gallery supporting 

a 0.50-carat brilliant cut white 

diamond and two round brilliant 

Argyle pink diamonds totalling 

0.075 carats. Available in 18-carat 

white and rose gold, or platinum. 

Engelsrufer 

Pride Brands 

pridebrands.com.au 

Natural gemstone 'pearls', 

suspended in an Infinity symbol 

carriage, create an enchanting 

jewellery piece with meaning. Each 

gemstone – rose quartz, tiger'seye, 

malachite, blue agate, red 

jasper, or lapis lazuli – represents 

a star sign as well as a personal 

mantra, and can be interchanged. 

Available in sterling silver as well 

as gold and rose gold plating. 

This beautiful German-designed 

necklace is both decorative and 

symbolic. Surrounded by the moon 

and stars, the winged guardian 

angel is the centrepiece of the 

Heaven Soundball necklace. The 

mint green soundball can be 

changed for any other soundball 

or natural gemstone in the range 

to create an individual look. 

Give the perfect gift of a relaxing 

scented candle matched with a 

sterling silver necklace this holiday 

season. Available in Fig with 

Flower of Life necklace, Rose with 

Heartwing necklace and Bergamot 

with Tree of Life necklace, all in a 

beautiful gift box with the meaning 

behind the jewellery and scent 

detailed on the side. 


www.morrisandwatson.com 

NEW ZEALAND | 0800 500 654 

AUSTRALIA | 1800 469 088 

Elegance is personified in 

this trilogy ring from Ellendale 

Diamonds, available in 18-carat 

white and rose gold, or platinum. 

Gently upswept shoulders meet 

a curved, open V gallery, with a 

four claw-set 0.50 carat D-colour 

diamond, nestled among six clawset 

round brilliant cut Argyle pink 

diamonds totalling 0.085 carats. 

Fabuleux Vous 

fabuleuxvous.com 

Several small, sterling silver 

circles make up the perfectly 

detailed Bijoux Silver Earrings. 

With a layered, textured look, 

these earrings shimmer and 

move with you. 

CAD/CAM 

& MOULD 

CREATION 

Simple and unique in 

their design, the Silver Perle 

Freshwater Pearl Chain 

earrings pull together 

the classic elements of 

fine jewellery with the 

freshwater pearls and 

sterling silver chains. 

Take Your Concept From Idea to Design, 

Ready to Print CAD Files in Five Days! 

* 

*Lead time excludes other casting services and shipping, working days only. 

Make a mould of your design to cast multiples 

without multiple print fees, vulcanized rubber and 

silicone moulds available from just $20. 

Refining | Bullion | Fabrication | CAD/CAM | Casting | Chain


Georgini 


Sourced exclusively for the Noel Nights 

Collection by Georgini, the new stunning 

cubic zirconia cut, known as 'Sliced Stone', 

is the first of its kind to hit the market. It 

offers a sophisticated and sleek look with 

minimal facets and optimal sparkle. The 

Noel Nights Collection is crafted in goldplated 

925 sterling silver. 


Golden Mile 

goldenmile.com.au 

Golden Mile’s paperclip 

link range is extensive 

and constantly growing as we develop 

styles to keep on top of the latest 

fashion trends. Available in 9-carat 

gold, 18-carat gold, 9-carat silver 

filled, or sterling silver, in the length 

of your choosing. Head to the Golden 

Mile website to see the full range. 

Gerrim International 

gerrim.com 

Gerrim presents the 

coolest of colours for 

summer with the Green 

Amethyst & Diamond 

Ring, matching pendant 

and earrings. What could 

be more refreshing? In 

stock now. 

Simple and elegant 

9-carat Diamond Signet 

Rings are a statement 

piece for all time. 

Available in rose, yellow, 

or white gold, with 

delivery in seven to 10 

days for specific sizes. 

Grown Diamonds 

Physically, optically and 

chemically identical to 

mined diamonds, Grown 

Diamonds’ lab-created 

stones are ethical, 

eco-conscious and 

affordable. In stock is 

this stunning 5.01-carat 

VS1 oval-cut lab-grown 

diamond – the largest 

currently in Australia – 

which is available to 

view online. 

growndiamonds.com.au 

Guess 

Designa Accessories 

Intricate and multi-layered 

design details create a touch 

of luxury in the latest Guess 

ladies' timepiece, Afterglow. 

Featuring a black ombré 

dial with pavé set, polished 

gold case, and bracelet with 

crystal embellishments, 

this watch is sure to elevate 

your look. Also available 

in polished rose gold and 

polished silver with blue dial. 

designaaccessories.com.au 


GOLDEN MILE JEWELLERY 

MANUFACTURERS PTY LTD. 

Did you know that Golden Mile 

now keep fine chains in stock? We 

have invested heavily in ensuring the 

majority of our chains are in stock 

in all standard lengths in a variety of 

9-carat yellow, white and rose golds, 

as well as on the spool. Order now for 

quick delivery. 

STANDARD 

LENGTH FINE 

CHAINS NOW 

IN STOCK 

FOR 24 HOUR 

TURNAROUND 

Regal and glorious 

in the deepest of blues, 

the London Blue 

Topaz & Diamond trio 

set, comprising ring, 

pendant, and earrings, is 

one of Gerrim’s all-time 

favourites. In stock now. 

Harper & Rowe 

Our ‘Star’ freshwater 

pearl earrings make a 

dazzling impression. 

Featuring gorgeous 

14–15mm baroque 

freshwater pearls, with 

925 sterling silver, cubic 

zirconia fittings, these 

breathtaking earrings 

are the perfect festive 

season accessory. 

harperandrowe.com.au 

The biggest range of gold 

jewellery in Australia. 

sales@goldenmile.com.au 

03 9753 3977 

www.goldenmile.com.au


Ikecho Australia 

Part of Ikecho Australia's latest 

collection, this 9-carat rose gold 

design features a 12mm natural 

pink round Edison freshwater 

pearl suspended from a 

delicate diamond-set pendant. 

ikecho.com.au 

Infinity Rings 

Infinity Rings has put 

together a modern and 

stylish collection of stacker 

rings, manufactured using 

only the best quality alloys. 

Explore how you can 

build the perfect stacker 

collection and customise 

the designs with the Infinity 

Rings DesignStudio. 

infinityrings.com.au 

JAG 


JAG originated in 1972 on Chapel 

Street in Melbourne. Today, it 

is internationally renowned as 

an iconic Australian brand. The 

seasonal JAG fashion watch 

collections offer an affordable 

range of models for men and 

women, featuring casual and 

timeless styles with an urban feel. 

dgau.com.au/jag 

JC Jewels 

Register for your login to the 

JC Jewels B2B portal to see 

our complete range of labgrown 

diamond jewellery, more 

than 80,000 loose, certified labgrown 

and mined diamonds, 

smalls, matched shoulder 

stones, and more. 

jcjewels.com.au 

Labanda 

Servicing both the watch and 

jewellery industries, Labanda 

is an Australian supplier 

specialising in quality tools 

and equipment, with 

exceptional service. 

labanda.com.au 


S&S 

STONES& SILVER 

STERLING SILVER JEWELLERY 

K&K Export Import 

Ethically sourced 

directly from the mine, 

K&K Export Import has 

secured a magnificent 

range of emerald from 

Brazil, from 0.50 to 5 

carats, with larger sizes 

available on request. 

Contact us for more 

information on these 

goods, along with all 

other types of natural 

colour gemstones and 

fancy colour diamonds. 

03 9654 4449 

LJ West Diamonds 

Introducing the Argyle Motif Collection 

from the Scott West Jewelry range. 

Featuring natural Argyle pink diamonds 

from Western Australia set in platinum 

and 18-carat gold handmade jewellery, 

two icons come together in a magnificent 

collection – where luxury design meets 

the most precious treasure of Australia. Ph: +61 3 9587 1215 

Email: info@stonesandsilver.com.au 

stonesandsilver.com.au


LJ West Diamonds 

ljwestdiamonds.com 

For more than 30 

years, the West Family 

has been collecting the 

rarest natural colour 

diamonds on Earth. As 

one of the earliest Argyle 

Authorised Partners, our 

collection of rare fancy 

colour diamonds and 

Argyle pink diamonds is 

truly exceptional. 

With a 

stunning, vibrant 

raspberry colour, 

this 2-carat 

Fancy Intense 

Pink Argyle 3PR 

diamond is part 

of the Argyle 2019 

Tender Series. 

Argyle pink diamonds 

display some of the rarest 

colours among all natural 

colour diamonds. Not only 

does this 0.67-carat stone 

feature a Fancy Intense 

Argyle 5P colour, but it is 

also one of only a handful 

of emerald shapes available 

at any given moment. 

Natural purple 

diamonds, such as this 

0.40 Deep Pink Purple 

stone, are very rare, 

unique, and soughtafter. 

Collectors often 

search out these regal 

diamonds, as purple 

is an ancient symbol 

of nobility. 

Teal-coloured 

stones, such as this 

wonderful 0.34-carat 

Fancy Intense Blue 

Green diamond, 

are extremely 

desirable among 

natural colour 

diamond collectors 

worldwide. 

One of the top 42 

diamonds ever found 

at the Argyle Mine, 

The Imperial Violet, 

is a 1-carat Argyle 

BL3 Tender stone. 

The violet colour is 

the pinnacle of rarity 

in the natural colour 

diamond 'kingdom'. 

Mats Jonasson Maleras 

Shillcombe 

Swedish figurines from Mats Jonasson 

Maleras are the perfect accompaniment to 

all jewellery stock. Our handmade crystal is 

collectable and sold worldwide. In production 

since 1890, Mats Jonasson combines 

innovative design with artisan glass-making 

techniques. Welcome to the crystal kingdom! 

matsjonasson.com.au 

Maserati 


Presenting the Maserati Stile Gold Chronograph 

Watch, part of the Stile Collection which embodies 

the mechanics, construction and stylistic codes 

of iconic sporting timepieces. The decisive lines, 

distinctive decagonal bezel and the slim case are 

combined with details that strongly identify with 

the sporting world, such as pump pushers and 

a screw-down crown. 


Maxum 


Built for extreme conditions and for those 

with an adventurous spirit, the Maxum 

range of watches help you to get the 

most out of every minute. The new men’s 

Vortex watch by Maxum features a 52mm 

red case and polyurethane strap, easy to 

read digital display, day and date function, 

backlight, alarm and is water resistant 

to 100 metres. 



Luminox 

Duraflex Group Ausralia 

For more than 20 years, Luminox has 

partnered with maritime commandos to 

hone and refine a watch tough enough 

for the world’s finest warriors. Luminox 

is proud to announce the new Navy SEAL 

45mm Military Dive Watch XS.3508.GOLD, 

sporting the proprietary Carbonox casing 

and constant glow for up to 25 years. 

luminox.com.au 

Mark McAskill Jewellery 

markmcaskill.com.au 

Lost River Diamonds 

One of a great range of certfied Argyle 

pink diamonds in stock at Lost River 

Diamonds is this princess-cut 0.46 

carat Argyle Tender Stone with Argyle 

1PP colour grade. 

lostriverdiamonds.com 

New to the Pink Caviar Collection, this 

pear-shaped double halo slider pendant 

features 16 Argyle pink diamonds in a rose 

gold channel setting, with a six claw-set 

pear diamonds and white diamond 

outer halo. The total diamond weight 

is approximately 0.34 carats. Available 

in 9-carat or 18-carat gold, with chain 

sold separately. 

Mays 

mays.com.au 

Natural rubies are a rarity in Australia. 

Most that are commonly available are 

synthetic – grown inside of a lab – or else 

heated-treated stones from Mozambique 

and Tanzania. Rarest are the unheated 

rubies that come from the famous Mogok 

stone tract in Burma (Myanmar) which are 

known for their iconic 'pigeon blood' colour. 

Throughout history, spinels have been the 

underdog when it comes to precious colour 

gemstones. Only about a century ago, scientists 

were able to differentiate spinel from ruby. 

Now among the most 'trending' gemstones, 

consumers and jewellers are beginning to 

appreciate their colour variety – particularly 

red, grey, and 'neon' pink, which is sometimes 

referred to as 'Jedi' spinel after the film series 

Star Wars. 

This stunning dress ring features a 10x8mm 

oval blue topaz in four talon-claw setting, and 

dazzling diamond shoulder settings with round 

brilliant and marquise-cut diamonds. The 

total diamond weight is approximately 0.28 

carats. Available in 9-carat gold, 18-carat 

gold, or platinum.


Miamor 

Miamor's diamond tennis 

bracelets feature fine 

quality natural diamonds, 

always set in 18-carat 

white or yellow gold. 

All sizes available. 

miamordiamonds.com.au 

Miln & Co 

This beautiful, handmade and hand-engraved 

9-carat rose gold and sterling silver hinged 

bangle is one of many exquisite designs 

produced by fifth generation-owned jewellery 

manufacturers. It is also available in 9-carat 

yellow gold and polished sterling silver. Contact 

Miln & Co for more details or visit our website. 

milnco.com.au 

Morris & Watson 

Always aiming to improve our service and 

product range, Morris & Watson now offer 

computer-aided design (CAD) services in both 

Australia and New Zealand, so you can take 

your ideas from concept to creation! Design, 

print and cast your design with a business that 

has more than 40 years of casting experience. 

morrisandwatson.com 

Natural Gem Exchange 

Natural Gem Exchange is your 

Virtual Online Coloured Gemstone 

Inventory. If you are a jeweller or 

a jewellery brand, having access 

to a good gemstone inventory at 

any time can help you to offer a 

better service and diverse design 

options for your customers. 

naturalgemexchange.com 

Nomination Italy 

Timesupply 

In addition to the iconic Composable 

bracelet range, Nomination Italy also offers 

stunning Fashion Jewellery Collections, 

such as this new release – the Sweetrock 

Romance Edition. It features gorgeous 

sterling silver and rose gold-plated hearts, 

stars, and moons, set with sparkling cubic 

zirconia on belcher chains. 

nomination-jewellery.com.au 


Moore Jewels 

moorejewels.com.au 

This dainty, on-trend, necklace 

features an oval-shaped created 

opal, flanked by two cubic zirconia 

on each side. Set in rhodium-plated 

sterling silver, the chain length is 

40cm plus 5cm. 

The sterling silver Flag Necklace features a 

rhodium-plated Evil Eye and rose gold-plated 

Hamsa Hand – ancient symbols of protection 

– as well as a yellow gold-plated Lotus flower 

to symbolise growth and new beginnings. This 

lovely trio slide on a rhodium-plated chain and 

sit daintily at the base of the throat. 

Stylish and modern, this teardrop 

necklace features three pear-shaped, satinfinished 

sterling silver sliders – one rhodiumplated, 

one yellow gold-plated, and one rose 

gold-plated – that sit together to form a 

beautiful fan. The chain is also rhodiumplated 

and is 40cm plus 5cm in length. 

Nordgreen 


Designed by Jakob Wagner, the carbon 

neutral Pioneer all-metal chronograph 

comes with interchangeable straps for 

a flexible look. Like each Nordgreen 

timepiece, the case is engraved with 

a unique serial number which allows 

customers to track the impact of their 

donation through the Giving Back program. 


Full of personality, this cute necklace 

features a sweet seal carefully balancing a 

pearl 'ball' on his nose. Crafted in sterling 

silver with a freshwater pearl, the pendant 

has a 40cm plus 5cm chain. 

From Moore Jewels' Exotica range, 

these gorgeous sterling silver drop earrings 

feature both polished and lightly oxidised 

filigree adornments and sit on the ear with 

a simple shepherd’s hook. They measure 

25mm x 15mm. 



Peter W Beck 

pwbeck.com.au 

The Original Comfort Wedder 

has a distinct smooth inner curve 

which provides a luxuriously 

comfortable fit. The Original 

Comfort Wedder is also handfinished 

and polished, meaning 

that each one is not only unique, 

but also guaranteed to have the 

signature silky-smooth feel. 

Palloys 

Palloys is Australasia's premier jewellery 

manufacturing and custom jewellery 

service. From fabricated metals and 

findings, to design, print, casting, refining, 

diamonds, finishing services and finished 

jewellery, it all comes together at Palloys. 

palloys.com 

FANCY COLORED DIAMONDS 

ARGYLE PINK, COGNAC & CHAMPAGNE 

AUSTRALIAN BLACK OPALS 

sales@tremac.com.au 

www.tremonti.com.au

2021 BUYING GUIDE | Christmas Ready 

Paterson Fine Jewellery 

pfj.com.au 

New and on-trend, 

these initial pendants 

crafted in 9-carat 

yellow gold and natural 

diamonds personalise 

any necklace, bracelet 

or anklet. Each disc 

measures 10mm. Also 

available via special 

order in 9-carat white 

and rose gold. 

Peter W Beck has put together 

a unique selection of 49 classic 

wedding rings, covering the most 

popular profiles and finger sizes, 

from I to Z+7 plus half-sizes, and 

seven widths. All are guaranteed 

to comply with the Peter W Beck 

‘Original & Accurate’ finger size 

standards. 

Pink Kimberley 


pinkkimberley.com.au 

Make gift-giving memorable with these 

petite trinkets for precious little ones! 

Playful children’s brooches are now 

available in 9-carat white, yellow and rose 

gold, with non-precious safety chains. 

Designs include Toby Train, Thomas Teddy, 

Tilly Diamond Stadium, Thomas Bluebird, 

and Trinity Cross brooches. 

With breathtaking 

designs and unsurpassed 

craftsmanship, Pink 

Kimberley jewellery is 

inspired by the remarkable 

nature of the Australian 

Outback, reminiscent 

of the colours of the 

magnificent pink sunset 

sky. Exquisite and one-ofa-kind, 

every piece is the 

ultimate show-stopper and 

the epitome of pure luxury. 

There’s no such thing 

as too much jewellery! 

Combining exquisite white 

diamonds with one of 

Australia’s greatest natural 

wonders – the Argyle pink 

diamond – every piece 

from the Unity Collection 

is unique and is a beautiful 

treasure with a touch of 

elegance and exclusivity. 

Exquisitely crafted, these stunning 

earrings – the Iman Diamond Drop Earrings 

and Salma Diamond Drop Pavé Set Earrings 

– evoke a Moroccan theme. Featuring 

pavé-set lab-grown diamonds and encased 

in 9-carat rose gold, they are also available in 

9-carat yellow and white gold. 



Qudo Germany 

Perfect for the summer 

months are these 

sparkling and colourful 

Interchangeable tops from 

Qudo. Qudo offers fun and 

collectable opportunities for 

customers, and the ability to 

personalise rings, earrings 

and necklaces with fresh, 

unique looks. 

qudojewellery.com.au 

Quinn Sterling Silver Jewellery 

Sarabol Trading 

The best quality sterling silver jewellery on 

the market, Quinn Sterling Silver Jewellery 

offers dress rings and earrings, necklaces, 

pendants and more, either plain or set with 

a variety of gemstones. In addition, lapis 

lazuli, onyx, and pearl pieces are available, 

in combination with gold and stainless steel. 

0412 286 387 

Sapphire Dreams 


sapphiredreams.com.au 

Influenced by our rich 

Australian heritage, Sapphire 

Dreams pairs premium 

jewellery designs with 

Australia’s most overlooked 

wonder, the Australian 

sapphire. 

Salt & Pepper Diamonds 

Salt and pepper diamonds are mined, 

natural diamonds without treatment. 

The heavily-included nature of Salt and 

Pepper Diamonds means they are all 

unique and incomparable. They have 

become a popular and economical 

choice for Millennial engagement rings 

and everyday jewellery alike. 

saltandpepperdiamonds.com.au 


RAS Spain 

Timesupply 

Added to the very popular 

Gingko Collection from RAS 

Spain is this handmade filigree 

wide cuff bangle. Golden 

Gingko leaves wrap around the 

wrist in this fine elegant design. 

timesupply.com.au 

RR Diamonds 

As the renowned Argyle Pink Diamonds 

Tender is unveiled for the final 

time in 2021, RR Diamonds revisits 

the exquisite gems from our most 

successful Tender in 2018. We continue 

to stock a carefully curated inventory of 

the world’s most coveted pink diamonds 

as well as blues. 

02 9235 1799 

Sapphire Dreams sapphires come 

in a plethora of colours, from ravishing 

teals and gorgeous greens to the trendy 

parti-colour. Every sapphire featured 

in our 18-carat gold designs features a 

laser-inscribed girdle and comes with a 

Sapphire Dreams certificate. Stunning 

designs with established provenance. 

Stones & Silver 

A modern spin on the timeless hoop 

earring, these stunning 925 sterling silver 

hoop stud earrings are available with 

beautiful freshwater pearls, larimar and 

faceted amethyst, lapis lazuli, and onyx. 

stonesandsilver.com.au 



Swarovski 


Swarovski's legacy of craftsmanship 

and technical innovation continues with 

Swarovski Created Diamonds. Just as a 

greenhouse-grown orchid is as beautiful as 

one found in nature, so too are Swarovski 

Created Diamonds. 

dgau.com.au/swarovski-created-diamonds 

The Amber Centre 

Part of The Amber Centre's 

fresh collection, the 

Carousel Earrings and 

Rings featuring multicoloured 

genuine Baltic 

amber, set in sterling silver. 

ambercentre.com.au 

Troy Australia 

troyaustralia.com 

Troy Australia is a new 

retail support service for 

independent jewellery 

retailers who are demanding 

something different, 

modern, and forwardthinking 

– at a low cost. 

Feel and see the quality in Troy 

Australia's exclusive range. Made 

by one of the world's leading 

international factories to the 

highest standards, the jewellery 

is amazing – as are the margins! 

Tennis bracelets – from 2 carats – 

diamond stud story and pendants 

are just some of the bestsellers in 

this collection. 

Tremac 

Tremac has been a supplier to the global 

gemstone and jewellery trade for more than 

30 years. Tremac specialises in coloured 

gemstones of all varieties, from precious 

gemstones for jewellery production to rare 

collectables, as well as diamond melee. 

tremac.com.au 


The Battery Man 

Watch repair Christmas gifts 

for your own workshop! This 

24-piece set of Delrin dies 

comes from Beco Technic's 

Master Tool Selection. Great 

for large or small, oval and 

other shape watch cases up 

to 59mm, they come stored 

in a sturdy, durable case. 

thebatteryman.com.au 

Thomas Sabo 


The new Sterling Silver Jewellery 

collection by Thomas Sabo features classic 

silhouettes, vintage-style aesthetics, 

archive updates and sparkling white 

gemstones. Plus, personalise your jewellery 

with engravable pendants and charms. 

thomassabo.com.au 

Timex 


Timex’s Q Falcon Eye adds two-tone refinement to the Q 

Timex series. Reissued for today, Timex have recreated 

every detail – a 1970s period-correct woven stainless-steel 

bracelet 38mm case, luminescent paint and a striated green 

dial. The result is a contemporary watch retaining every 

ounce of soul and character from the era that inspired it. 


With a subscription model, 

Troy Australia offers the 

solution for a ready-to-go, 

competitive range that meets 

all the price-points your 

business requires. 

In addition to premium 

jewellery, Troy Australia 

offers a one-stop-shop for 

help, advice and assistance 

to grow your business with 

modern, forward-thinking 

advice and insights. 

Partner with Troy and enjoy 

exclusive access to beautiful 

boutique collections including our 

Harmony Created Diamond range, 

curated specifically for our market. 

Troy Australia has one of the 

most experienced retailers in the 

industry at the helm. Collaborate 

with us and enjoy unrivalled 

insight into the Australian and 

New Zealand market. Grow and 

flourish with Troy by your side. 



UNOde50 Spain 

Timesupply 

The new Ikon Collection celebrates 

everyday objects, embracing the 

simplicity of form and function. Bracelets, 

necklaces, earrings, and rings combine 

conventionality with a bold and rebellious 

touch, in a quirky and unique design 

typical of the iconic UNOde50 style. 

Handmade in Spain. 

unode50.com.au 

TW Steel 


The new Red Bull Ampol 

Racing watch collection from 

TW Steel celebrates one of 

the most prolific teams in 

motorsport. Powered by Swissmade 

movements, the three 

performance timepieces are 

built with racing in mind and 

heart, and Red Bull's iconic 

red, blue, yellow and silver 

colours and team logo 

engraved on the case. 

twsteel.com.au 

AUSTRALIAN 

JEWELLERY TOOLS 

WHOLESALER 

World Shiner 

Alongside its extensive collection of white, 

pink, yellow, and champagne diamonds, 

World Shiner proudly introduces a new 

range of Italian-made jewellery with 

old-cut diamonds. The collection includes 

rings, earrings and pendants. 

worldshiner.com 

SPECIALISING IN QUALITY JEWELLERY 

TOOLS & EQUIPMENT WITH EXCEPTIONAL SERVICE 

Glues 

(07) 3876 7481 

sales@labanda.com.au 

FAX: (07) 3368 3100 

www.labanda.com.au

2021 HOLIDAY STOCK SPECIAL | Christmas Ready 

Wolf 1834 


The British Racing Green Collection by 

WOLF 1834 is a truly English collection of 

watch winders, boxes and watch rolls. It 

is ideal for passionate watch collectors, 

travellers, and for safekeeping of your 

treasured timepieces. 

dgau.com.au/wolf 

Wolski's 

0411 331 777 

Direct suppliers of natural 

colour pink and blue Argyle 

diamonds. Single stones and 

pairs/matched sets are available. 

Argyle Certificates are provided 

for larger stones. 

Direct suppliers 

of natural 

gemstones, 

including sapphire, 

ruby, emerald, 

aquamarine, 

peridot, tanzanite, 

tourmaline, topaz, 

amethyst, citrine, 

rubellite, garnet, 

and more. 

Worth & Douglas 

These on-trend new designs feature current 

fashion must-haves in the sparkling world 

of coloured gemstones, highlighted with 

fancy cuts including radiant, cushion, and 

pear shape. Pictured here set with London 

blue topaz, blue topaz, and garnet, with 

diamonds. Available in most metal alloys 

and with many other gemstones. 

wdrings.com.au 

ZETAGS 

ZETAGS has released its new CloudTT 

barcode software. For the first time, users 

can print tags straight from Google Chrome 

on both Windows and Mac computers. The 

Lite version is free for ZETAGS customers 

with a data-aware Pro version currently in 

beta testing. 

zetags.com 


MARKET FEATURE 

Local Jewellery Brands 

ARABELLA RODEN explores the appeal of Australia and New Zealand’s 

local jewellery brands and how they can improve retailers’ stock mix. 

KAGI CAMPAIGN 2021

LOCAL JEWELLERY BRANDS | Homegrown Heroes 

L to R: Sapphire Dreams; Kagi; Paterson Fine Jewellery 

I 

n an increasingly globalised world, it can be 

easy to lose sight of the unique characteristics 

that make local brands special – yet special 

they certainly are. 

Uniquely developed for the Australian and New Zealand 

markets, ‘homegrown’ brands share a deep knowledge and 

understanding of local consumers as well as a pride and 

passion for supporting retailers. 

Across the jewellery industry, many of these brands are part 

of independent family-operated businesses – another value 

they have in common with jewellery retail. 

SAMS Group Australia CEO Steve Der Bedrossian tells 

Jeweller, “SAMS Group Australia represents the homegrown 

Australian jewellery and watch brands, such as Classique, 

Pink Kimberley and Sapphire Dreams. 

"Founded in 1967 as a family business, Classique Watches 

had been servicing the Australian watch industry for more 

than 50 years. 

"Our luxury jewellery brands Pink Kimberley and Blush Pink 

had been operating for about 15 years. Sapphire Dreams is 

our newly launched brand that came to life in 2021,” he says. 

Indelible Australian touches are evident throughout the 

brands, with Der Bedrossian noting, “The identity of our 

brand revolves around working with Australian gemstones. 

The Australian way is also reflected in our brand marketing 

and company values as all our products are ethically and 

responsibly sourced.” 

Paterson Fine Jewellery (PFJ) is another Aussie brand with a 

long history. 

“Paterson Fine Jewellery was originally established in 1935 

and operated locally around Melbourne,” says managing 

director David Paterson, grandson of founder Keith Paterson. 

“The business expanded nationally in 1959 when Keith took 

the ‘Little Gypsy’ range of earrings to wholesalers around 

Australia, and shortly afterwards we expanded internationally 

into the New Zealand market." 

Today, PFJ manufactures several registered brands including 

My Little Angel, Firegem Australian Opal, and Babylinks. 

Opal Minded 

Pink Kimberley 


“As an Australian-owned business, we pride ourselves 

on our customer service, quality, and authenticity of our 

products. Customer satisfaction and quality workmanship 

are at the heart of our business philosophy and underpin 

our reputation in the industry,” Paterson says. 

That commitment to customer satisfaction and quality is 

evident in modern jewellery brands too, such as Harper 

& Rowe – also a family business – which was established 

in South Australia in 2010 and now counts retail stockists 

across Australia and New Zealand. 

Uniquely developed for the 

Australian and New Zealand 

markets, ‘homegrown’ brands 

share a deep knowledge and 

understanding of local consumers 

as well as a pride and passion for 

supporting retailers" 

“As a family business, we take pride in the knowledge that 

our company has developed locally and organically,” says 

director Virginia Moody. 

“Our jewellery is designed in our workshop in South 

Australia, with many of our pieces also handmade there. 

We try to source local components and materials wherever 

possible for our products, and love working with our 

amazing Australian suppliers.” 

Moody adds, “Being a local company means we can work 

closely with our retailers to develop and supply designs that 

work best in their markets, and many of our pieces have 

come to life from the close relationships we have developed 

with our customers. 

“To us, being homegrown not only means creating a 

beautiful local product that sells well in the Australasian 

market, but also developing close ties with many small 

local businesses.” 

Christine Harold, director of Melbourne brand Moore 

Jewels, which launched in 2007, echoes that sentiment. 

October 2020 2021 | 71

Homegrown Heroes | LOCAL JEWELLERY BRANDS 

Karen Walker 


Sapphire Dreams 

“Being a local brand, we are able to respond 

to our customers’ needs quickly,” she 

tells Jeweller. 

“We are completely independent and are 

therefore able to treat any issues that 

may arise quickly, and always to our 

customers’ satisfaction. 

"We work together with our manufacturers 

to produce the best quality product for our 

local market.” 

Those same qualities are abundantly evident in 

brands founded ‘across the ditch’. 

“New Zealand is small and our economy is 

made up of approximately 85 per cent small 

and medium enterprises (SMEs); many are like 

us – family owned and operated,” says Helen 

Thompson-Carter, director of Fabuleux Vous, 

which was founded in 2014. 

“Having exported for more than 30 years across 

many industry sectors, the one thing I can 

honestly say is that New Zealand is proud of its 

people, its product and its presentation to the 

world,” she adds. 

“We have a reputation globally for being a leader 

and having products that the world simply wants. 

"There is not only a strong sense of pride, there 

is a camaraderie between business owners and 

a very special kind of admiration and support 

for each other.” 

Nick Hoogwerf, brand manager of New Zealandfounded 

interchangeable jewellery brand Kagi, 

adds, “Stocking home-grown brands is vital to 

supporting local businesses. 

"Customers love and appreciate a homegrown 

success story and are happy to 

support a brand that offers good quality, 

affordability as well as the ability to mix and 

match looks for any occasion.” 

Adapting to change 

Perhaps the most important quality in a 

business – particularly given the rapid pace of 

change in the retail environment – is the owner’s 

ability to adapt quickly, shifting gears to meet 

challenges and increasingly high expectations 

of customers. 

It’s a quality that is embedded in the mentality of 

New Zealanders, according to Thompson-Carter. 

“Kiwis are well known globally for their 

innovation, ability to adapt to change and with a 

‘number-eight wire’ [resourceful and inventive] 

approach to things. 

Perhaps the most important 

quality in a business – 

particularly given the rapid 

pace of change in the retail 

environment – is the owner’s 

ability to adapt quickly" 

"We are proud to be designing and producing 

beautiful world class products from this little 

corner of the world,” she says. 

Worth & Douglas has manufactured its 

namesake brand of wedding rings since 

1953, and also manufactures jewellery 

brands Karen Walker, Lord Of The Rings, 

and ZiRO. 

“Being local allows us to offer flexibility in 

design, take orders in a friendly way, and deliver 

quality products in a timely manner,” says 

business development manager Chris Worth. 

In practical terms, Paul Hicks, director of 

Ellani Collections – which has been established 

in both the Australian and New Zealand 

markets since 2008 – says local brands have 

an advantage when it comes to serving evolving 

consumer tastes. 

“Being local allows you to react quickly to 

changing consumer demand for designs, 

materials and price points,” he explains. 

“This allows the retailers representing your 

brand to be stocking a range with proven sales 

results and better retail margins.” 

Harold has a similar perspective: “One of the 

benefits to the retailers is that most local 

suppliers carry stock – we certainly do. 

"We know the local market and, after working 

in the industry for more than 40 years, I’m very 

cognisant of regional variance and try to cater 

for most areas.” 

Indeed, while the Australian and New Zealand 

market shares some similarities with Europe, 

the US and the UK, homegrown brands have an 

intimate knowledge of local consumer tastes 

and shopping behaviours, as well as a natural 

affinity for relevant designs and materials. 

“Over the past 50-plus years, we have worked 

with many established Australian retailers, 

maintaining strong connections with Australian 

businesses and our local community,” says Der 

Bedrossian, noting that SAMS Group’s brands 

celebrate the nation’s unique natural history. 

“In Australia, we have so many spectacular 

natural gemstones that we use to create our 

jewellery and watch designs. 


Homegrown brands 

also share a geographic 

advantage, being located 

in similar time zones to 

their retail stockists and 

being able to tailor stock 

to local needs" 


"For instance, we were the first to create a single-slice Australian 

opal dial for our watches – which remains the unique hallmark of 

Classique to this day,” he explains. 

Adds Thompson-Carter, “Local people love a local story to be 

proud of! Jewellery can so easily tell a life story, and sometimes 

that starts from where the jewellery came from and the inspiration 

behind the design.” 

Homegrown brands also share a geographic advantage, being 

located in similar time zones to their retail stockists and being able 

to tailor stock to local needs. 

Explains Moody, “Important economic and social influences are at 

play – things like economy of shipping, fast and efficient supply of 

stock, dealing in the same language and currency, combined with 

the ability to make special orders, including bespoke designs, also 

influences buying decisions.” 

She adds that the importance of doing business with people they 

“know and enjoy dealing with, and who understand their business 

and customer base” cannot be underestimated by retailers. 

Paterson emphasises the customer service advantage enjoyed 

by retailers who stock a mix that includes Australian and New 

Zealand brands: “The biggest benefits are retailers can get realtime 

answers on stock availability, place custom orders with a fast 

turnaround, and can access local repairs and quick returns. 

“Plus, we have state-based agents who come in-store to showcase 

new arrivals and can also take back stock that hasn’t worked.” 

Indeed, New Zealand brand Kagi recently switched to a new 

Australian-based distributor, Pride Brands, in order to better serve 

its retailer base. 

“We can now offer super fast delivery and support to retailers 

of our 300-piece range as a result of our partnership with Pride 

Brands in Australia,” says Hoogwerf. 

“We are looking forward to Australians again being able to 

wear and love our product through the convenience of a local 

distributor. We have a great brand and history in both the New 

Zealand and Australian markets and now is the time to build 

upon this solid foundation.”



Moore Jewels 

Fabuleux Vous 


Gerrim 

While many overseas brands have found 

popularity in the Australian and New Zealand 

markets and developed loyal followings, 

others have faltered, leaving retailers and 

consumers disappointed. 

Says Hicks, “Sometimes what is selling in 

European markets does not resonate with our 

consumer base and distributors in our region 

– followed by the retailer – have little to no 

input in the designs for new release products, 

due to the size of our market in comparison 

to the rest of the world.” 

Pandemic challenges 

With fewer supply chain disruptions and close 

existing relationships with retailers, homegrown 

brands were able to communicate and cater to 

their stockists' needs throughout the past 18 

months, while the COVID-19 pandemic raged. 

“We are manufacturers as well as wholesalers. 

As a manufacturer, we have the benefit of being 

able to scale-up or scale-down the business 

depending on demand,” Paterson explains. 

“Initially, we scaled back production dramatically, 

but once we realised the demand for jewellery 

was rising and retailers were struggling to attain 

stock from overseas, we were able to scale-up to 

full capacity in the factory.” 

At Worth & Douglas, “It’s been important to us to 

remain fresh and continue creating and designing 

so we have released new designs and collections 

in the past 18 months,” says Worth. 

“During lockdowns, we have continued to 

serve by offering marketing support, online 

assets, answer quotes and general enquiries, 

and just be there to help where we can to 

navigate these unchartered territories together 

with our customers.” 

In New Zealand, Fabuleux Vous’ team “got 

up, got dressed and got on with it,” says 

Thompson-Carter. 

“COVID-19 gave a new appreciation to being 

‘local’,” she continues. 

“We reached out to as many of our retailer 

partners as we could across Australia and 

New Zealand and kept in touch. 

With fewer supply chain 

disruptions and close 

existing relationships with 

retailers, homegrown brands 

were able to communicate 

and cater to their stockists' 

needs throughout the 

past 18 months" 

"We supported them with payment plans so that 

they still had access to product, ramped up our 

digital presence – both business-to-business and 

business-to-consumer – and we made sure our 

retailers had imagery and material to ramp up 

their digital performance.” 

Thompson-Carter added, “We also brought 

fresh on-trend products to market and we learnt 

more than anything that cash reserves, cash 

management and conservative business thinking 

was the saviour.” 

A similar strategy was employed at Harper 

& Rowe, which Moody describes as a “hands-on” 

business that “rolled with the punches” during 

the pandemic. 

“Over the years we have built excellent 

relationships with our customers which has held 

us in good stead during these turbulent times,” 

she explains. 

“Like many other Australian small businesses, 

we needed to think outside of the square – not 

just working differently, but working smarter. 

With the explosion in online shopping and the 

emergence of the ‘lockdown look,’ we launched 

our At Home Collection. 

“The designs in this collection included pieces 

which could be worn to complement a casual 

look, or to elevate a professional look while 

attending online meetings. 

“We also focused on designing pieces which 

evoked sentimental feelings of love and affection, 

for people to send to family members living in 

other places. 

"When individuals cannot see friends and family 

in person, they want to be able to send them 

personal gifts which express their love.” 

At Kagi, Hoogwerf notes, “The lockdowns 

have given our customers time to build 

upon their collection and be more creative in 

crafting their daily look. It’s been great to see 

so many of our customers find unique ways 

daily to bring out their personality with our 

interchangeable pieces.” 

He adds, “We’ve seen a surge in demand 

particularly for our statement earrings – 

everybody is looking to brighten up their look 

for Zoom calls.” 

Like retailers, e-commerce was a high priority 

for homegrown brands. 

“The emergence of COVID-19 was not a time 

to panic – it was a time to refocus our energies 

and to pinpoint what we perceived our rapidly 


IP907-PRG-EDI-P 

COVID-19 TRENDS 

GOING LOCAL 

CONSUMER BEHAVIOUR INSIGHTS 

IP4060N-RGP 

There is no doubt the ongoing COVID-19 pandemic has influenced 

consumer tastes and behaviour to a large degree – and to the 

advantage of homegrown brands. 

“There is a new passion to shop local,” confirms Chris Worth, 

business development manager at Worth & Douglas. 

“While many customers are unable to travel overseas due to border 

restrictions, more are now shopping locally and choose to recognise 

and support local manufacturers and retailers. Consumers are also 

looking for bespoke pieces and want them now, without having the 

long wait to have it made off-shore.” 

IP779-ERG-EDI-P 

Virginia Moody, director Harper & Rowe, observes, “Closed borders 

have meant that, as a nation, we are now reflecting inwards a lot more. 

“Australian brand sentiment is very high at present, as is social 

conscience and awareness of sustainability. Australians now recognise 

the importance of ensuring our industries at home are supported. 

“So, it appears that COVID-19 has expanded people’s mindsets and 

that ‘stocking local’ is an important part of ensuring this mindset 

endures when borders reopen.” 

Helen Thompson-Carter, director Fabuleux Vous, says local brands 

offer a “point of difference” for shoppers. 

“There is a famous New Zealand TV fisherman who always said, ‘Fish 

with your feet first’ – meaning have a look around the waters that 

surround your feet before you look elsewhere. I love this quote and 

I think it’s right on the button for where we are at.” 

Indeed the CommBank Consumer Insights Report, published in May 

2021, noted that “a majority of consumers in eight of the 10 retail 

categories covered, and half the patrons of personal care service 

providers, say that since the pandemic, it has become more important 

to them to have options to buy products manufactured in Australia.” 

IP1143-R9R-EDI-P 

The report’s authors also observed, “Another apparent change in 

priorities uncovered by the research is the desire to support Australian 

online retailers and manufacturers, as well as local suburban 

shopping centres and neighbourhood stores.” 

And while COVID-19 may have accelerated the online shopping trend, 

analysis by retail media firm Shopper recently found 36 per cent of 

Australians spend 80 per cent or more of their discretionary income 

within 5km of their home. 

For many of today’s consumers, it seems home is where the heart 

– and the wallet – is. 

LUXURY pearl AND opal JEWELLERY 

+61 2 9266 0636 

enquiries@ikecho.com.au www.ikecho.com.au


Kagi 

Paterson Fine Jewellery 


Harper & Rowe 

Georgini 

Steve Der 

Bedrossian 

SAMS Group 

Australia 

David Paterson 

Paterson Fine 

Jewellery 

Chris Worth- 


“Over the past 

50-plus years, we have 

worked with many 

established Australian 

retailers, maintaining 

strong connections 

with Australian 

businesses and our 

local community.” 

“As an Australianowned 

business, 

we pride ourselves 

on our customer 

service, quality, and 

authenticity of our 

products. Customer 

satisfaction and quality 

workmanship are at the 

heart of our business." 

"During lockdowns, we 

have continued to serve 

by offering marketing 

support, online assets, 

answer quotes and general 

enquiries, and just be 

there to help where we 

can to navigate these 

unchartered territories 

together with our 

customers." 

changing marketplace was going to be. 

"The first thing we did was to put into place the 

rebuilding of our website to better showcase 

and streamline our jewellery collections and 

individual designs,” says Moody. 

SAMS Group Australia’s digital infrastructure – 

already in place pre-pandemic – proved a boon 

for the company, according to Der Bedrossian. 

“Frequent interstate travel and remote work had 

always been a big part of the job, which enabled 

us to be digitally prepared many years before the 

pandemic happened,” he explains. 

“The functionality of our systems – with 

the diversity and flexibility of the working 

arrangements we have in place – ensured a 

smooth transition for us to ‘work from home’.” 

He adds, “Once the pandemic hit, we were ready 

to service the public with our online presence, 

especially with the ‘Click and collect from your 

local stockist’ function. 

“I’ve always been a big believer in investing into 

technology. Even though at the time I did not see 

the return on this investment, it prepared me to 

face the challenges of the pandemic before it 

even began.” 

Similarly, PFJ made investments into 

e-commerce “long before the pandemic”, and is 

in the process of launching a new and improved 

online store. 

With many retailers unable to meet with 

sales agents, the business also introduced a 

consignment box service for Australian and New 

Zealand customers, with Paterson explaining, 

“It’s a contactless and COVID-safe delivery to 

their door. Our consignment boxes contain a 

selection of our latest arrivals and a variety of 

stock that we can tailor to request. 

“Upon delivery, retailers can review and keep the 

jewellery pieces they wish to stock. We include 

a free return freight satchel should they wish to 

return any items to us,” he adds. 

With NSW, Victoria, the ACT, and Auckland 

beset by further extended lockdowns in 2021, 

homegrown brands have another benefit – 

an ability to relate to the challenges faced by 

local retailers. 

With NSW, Victoria, the 

ACT, and Auckland beset 

by further extended 

lockdowns in 2021, 

homegrown brands have 

another benefit – an ability 

to relate to the challenges 

faced by local retailers" 

“Boy, it’s certainly been tough,” says Harold. 

“Being based in metropolitan Melbourne, 

we’ve had over 230 days in lockdown. 

"We don’t sell to the public and are, therefore, 

reliant on retailers exclusively for sales and it’s 

been a very rough period as our lovely customers 

are also trying to cope with a greatly-reduced 

cashflow, furloughed staff and ongoing overheads 

and costs to their businesses.” 

She adds, “Selling trips have had to be cancelled 

suddenly due to different states or regions being 

locked down, so we haven’t seen some of our 

customers for over a year and the states that have 

fared better with COVID-19 cases have had very 

patchy tourist numbers, resulting in less buying 

flow through retail.” 


Gerrim 

IN SUMM ARY 

Key Points 

Market 

insights 

Homegrown 

brands have 

an intimate 

knowledge of 

local consumers 

and trends, 

which ensures 

the product mix 

remains relevant 

Personal 

service 

Many 

homegrown 

brands are 

backed by 

family-operated 

businesses with 

a hands-on 

approach 

Local supply 

chain 

An absence of 

geographic, 

linguistic, 

freight, and 

currency 

limitations 

makes doing 

business simple 

Ellani’s Hicks has also observed the uneven 

nature of the ‘pandemic effect’, telling Jeweller, 

“There are currently challenges for retailers in 

some states with COVID-19 restrictions. We are 

seeing states that do not have operating restrictions 

having strong demand.” 

Like many in the jewellery industry, Hicks is 

optimistic. “With higher vaccination rates in the 

coming months we should see less operating 

restrictions and if the demand in the run towards 

Christmas this year is anything like last year we will 

see incredibly good results,” he says. 

This assertion is supported by a recent survey 

of 3,000 local consumers conducted by the 

Australian Retailers Association (ARA) in 

conjunction with market research firm Roy Morgan. 

The survey found that gift buyers would spend 

an average of $726 each, with 79 per cent of 

respondents saying they would spend the same or 

more than they did last year. 

Economists have also predicted a wave of ‘revenge 

spending’, similar to the post-lockdown spending 

bumps observed in 2020. 

Remarking on the survey’s results, Paul Zahra, 

CEO of the ARA, said, “The past few months have 

been a uniquely challenging time for most retailers, 

in particular small businesses navigating extended 

state-imposed lockdowns and restrictions that have 

limited their ability to trade. 

“Despite this uncertainty, the good news is that 

consumer sentiment is upbeat for Christmas 

and retailers can look forward to healthy trading 

conditions over the busy festive season." 

With a bumper season hopefully just around the 

corner, jewellery retailers should consider the 

benefits of adding homegrown brands to their 

product mix – both for the holidays, and beyond. 

Bloom 

PINK KIMBERLEY 

This collection is truly a wonder: every piece is a work 

of art, a floral-inspired design with a breathtaking, 

gorgeous arrangement of Argyle pink diamonds. 

The blend of pink, white and gold tones is simply 

phenomenal. Reminiscent of Australian pink magnolias, 

this collection captures the moment when a flower 

blossoms in real time for it to be preserved for eternity. 

PinkKimberley.com.au 

E pink@samsgroup.com.au W samsgroup.com.au P 02 9290 2199

BUSINESS 

Strategy 

When less is more: The essentials of 

customer segmentation 

Attracting more customers guarantees higher profits – or does it? DENYSE DRUMMOND-DUNN 

explains how selling more to fewer people can be a more successful strategy. 

Businesses often make the mistake of 

trying to sell to everyone – but why exactly 

is this a mistake? 

The answer is if you try to please everyone, 

you end up pleasing no-one. 

Your business needs to appeal to a group of 

customers who are looking for the solution 

your products offer. 

Where to start 

When deciding which consumers to target, 

conduct an analysis; this can be as simple 

as identifying target markets through 

observation – which consumers already 

purchase your products? 

Is it young men, older housewives, or 

mothers of large families, for example? 

Providing a detailed description of the target 

customers makes them easier to engage 

because your advertising messages can 

then ‘speak their language’. 

Types of segmentation 

You can use demographics to segment 

all your category users, but it's not very 

distinctive, nor competitive. 

This means that you need to make a 

choice about who to target among all the 

consumers in your relevant category. 

Of course, this choice implies that you 

will have to ignore some consumers that 

you could potentially attract, which feels 

counter-intuitive. 

Surely, you should try to attract the largest 

number of consumers possible? 

This choice certainly worries many 

marketers, yet it’s the only way to sell 

more profitably. 

Segmentation – that is, narrowing your 

target market down to specific consumer 

demographics – ensures that you have the 

best possible chance of satisfying needs and 

making sales. 

Although this is easy to articulate, it has the 

weakness of not truly reflecting why those 

customers are choosing your brand over 

the competition. 

Therefore, it makes much more sense 

to move onto a more sophisticated 

segmentation that is informed by values 

and reasons for purchase, rather than 

simply demographics. 

For example, rather than young men, 

a sportswear business could target 

consumers who value a sense of freedom. 

Even if the majority of the consumers who 

fall into this segment are young men, the 

description is far more actionable 

in terms of marketing strategies and 

product positioning. 

If you have 

neither the 

product/service 

they are likely 

to buy, nor 

would they be 

profitable to 

you, why spend 

time, money and 

energy going 

after them? 

The sooner you can run a more complex 

segmentation, the better. 

There are five main types of segmentation: 

• Firmagraphics – This is the most basic 

and frequently-used segmentation across 

different product categories. 

An example of firmagraphics in the 

beverage category could be alcoholic versus 

non-alcoholic, still versus sparkling, or 

bottles versus cans. 

The consumers of the different types of 

beverages are easy to identify since the 

products they buy are too. 

However, as the grouping is based on 

the consumers of the different products, 

this is not a very useful segmentation for 


Business Strategy 

marketing, since consumers can appear in 

more than one segment. 

And as you will see below, one of the criteria 

of a good segmentation is that customers 

can only appear in one segment. 

• Demographics – As discussed previously, 

demographic segmentation categorises 

consumers based on factors such as age, 

gender, ethnicity, marital status, income, 

education, or employment. 

Again, this form of segmentation is limited 

because consumers can be classified in 

more than one segment, and each segment 

also offers limited insights into consumers’ 

purchasing drivers. 

• Geographics – Included in this section 

are all the possible descriptions relating to 

your customers’ geography – country, state, 

city, etcetera. 

This could be relevant for products suited to 

different types of weather or language, or 

for businesses expanding into new markets. 

However, because it groups people by 

geography alone, this form of segmentation 

assumes that all those in a group will 

be similar. 

As we all know, although there are zones in 

cities and countries where inhabitants are 

similar, it is simplistic to assume that they 

all behave and purchase in the same way. 

• Behavioural – At this level of 

segmentation, we look more at how 

customers behave, rather than simply who 

they are or where they live. 

Types of behaviour included in this 

segmentation could be what solution they 

are looking for based upon the benefits of 

a brand; how, when and where they buy; 

and where they are in terms of life-cycle or 

engagement with a specific brand. 

At this point, we group customers by what 

they do, so we at least know that they are 

behaving in a similar way. 

However, behavioural segmentation doesn’t 

tell us all the reasons these consumers 

behave the same way. 

• Psychographics – This is among the 

most sophisticated and complex forms 

of segmentation. 

It involves grouping consumers by their 

values, attitudes and opinions, interests, 

personality, or lifestyle, and often offers a 

competitive advantage as it provides deeper 

insights into both the way the target market 

purchases and why. 

If you do not have the time, money, or 

expertise to run a detailed segmentation 

study, you can still make an informed 

decision based on simple criteria. 

This could be based on observation, or an 

analysis of your customer service database. 

The ‘MIDAS’ touch 

Whatever method you use, the final groups 

of consumers – the ‘segments’ or ‘clusters’ 

– need to meet the following five conditions, 

known by the acronym ‘MIDAS’: 

• Measurable – The groups need to 

be clearly defined and numerically 

quantifiable; think size, market share, 

or value in dollars. 

• Identifiable – Each segment must have a 

distinct profile and each customer must be 

attributed to only one segment. 

• Definable – Every cluster must be easy to 

describe and share with others so that you 

have mutual understanding of them. 

• Actionable – The groups must be easy to 

identify in order to target marketing actions 

and communications towards them. 

• Substantial – The chosen segment must 

be financially viable to target, which means 

that it should, in general, be stable or 

increasing in size. 

Good segments traditionally fulfil all five 

of these key conditions, however the last 

condition has changed slightly in recent 

years due to the rise of personalisation. 

Instead of assessing substantiality, some 

prefer to assess whether it is sustainable. 

This will depend on the category in which 

you operate. 

Taking action 

Once you have identified the different types 

of consumers, you can then decide what 

to do with each segment – target, convert, 

grow, or ignore. 

‘Target’ consumers are core customers; 

TARGET 

PRACTICE 

Define your 

clusters 

Use your chosen 

methodology to 

separate your 

customer base 

into groups 

Prioritise 

your 

resources 

Focus the 

marketing 

strategy 

and product 

decisions 

towards the 

most profitable 

and easily-won 

consumers 

Forget the 

rest 

Some 

consumers are 

simply not worth 

the time, energy, 

and money it 

would take to 

turn them into 

customers 

they are both profitable to the business and 

strongly attracted to the business’ products 

and services. Therefore, they need to be 

protected from competition. 

Meanwhile, ‘Convert’ consumers offer the 

most potential as new customers. They 

are attracted to the business’ products 

or services, but the ability to ‘win’ them is 

currently low. 

To turn them into customers, consider 

improving the product mix or marketing. 

‘Grow’ consumers are those that are easy 

to convince to purchase, but perhaps not 

as profitable. This might change, so it is 

important to review them from time-to-time. 

Finally, there are the ‘Ignore’ consumers. If 

you have neither the product/service they 

are likely to buy, nor would they be profitable 

to you, why spend time, money and energy 

going after them? 

In order to determine which group your 

segments fall into, I suggest using what is 

often referred to as the ‘Boston Matrix’. 

It takes the form of a scatter plot on two 

axes. While the criteria you use for each 

axis can vary, this simple analysis has the 

advantage of being able to be further 

refined over time. 

These criteria can be grouped into 

‘Attractiveness’ and ‘Ability to win’. 

Examples of Attractiveness include segment 

size, segment growth rate, segment value, 

competitive environment, profitability, 

industry structure, distribution, and pricing. 

Ability to win includes market share, 

differentiation, brand strength, distribution 

strength, company profitability, customer 

appeal, customer loyalty, or reputation. 

All businesses want to sell more and 

increase profitability, but trying to sell to 

everyone is unlikely to accomplish these 

goals. Instead, choosing the right group of 

customers to attract with your product or 

service is the essential first step. 

DENYSE DRUMMOND-DUNN has 

more than 30 years’ management 

experience. She runs C3Centricity 

consultancy. Visit: c3centricity.com 


BUSINESS 

Selling 

Give your sales team what they need! 

DAVID BROCK explores the mistakes managers make when supporting 

sales staff – and how this can lead to wasted resources. 

It’s a simple yet critical point: as 

managers, we fail to give salespeople 

what they need, and as a result, adversely 

impact performance – or waste money, 

time, and resources. 

There are several reasons for this 

phenomenon: 

• We are more concerned about what 

we need from the sales team, rather than 

what they need 

• With the best intentions, managers, 

marketing departments, and others in an 

organisation give salespeople what we 

think they need – but too often this does 

not actually help them get the job done 

• We give them things we want them 

to need, but they really don’t; under 

this section would fall a lot of content, 

marketing materials, and technology. 

Often, these are deployed to the sales team 

with the mentality of, “If all the ‘cool kids’ 

are doing this, then we should too!” 

• We focus on our needs, without 

understanding how they impact the sales 

team; for example, putting in place policies 

and procedures that make it more difficult 

for salespeople to get things done 

• We drown the sales team, giving them 

far more than they need – part of this is 

the ‘program du jour’ mentality, where all 

sorts of new things are added, only some of 

which are helpful. 

Sometimes, giving salespeople what they 

need is stopping certain procedures or 

policies, or taking things away that are no 

longer useful 

• Managers give the sales team 

something they really need, but the sales 

team doesn’t know they need it and so 

there is no increase in performance 

This is an example bungled ‘change 

management’. 

Identifying the true need 

I often see these problems arise when I 

start a project with a new client. 

Sales teams like to keep it simple – they won't use what they don't need. 

At the beginning, the manager will tell me 

all the ‘stuff’ they have in place to help 

the salespeople – content, training, tools, 

processes, procedures, programs. 

The list goes on, and on, and on. 

They are providing all the ‘right’ things, 

the things you hear marketing 

departments and sales managers talk 

about as ‘best practice’. 

Then I talk to the sales team, watching how 

they work and what they do. In particular, 

I pay attention to top performers. 

Without fail, they’ve simplified the process 

phenomenally; they are doing all the 

things they should be, they are executing 

tasks in a disciplined way, and they keep 

going back to the few things they know 

work and are helpful. 

They ignore everything else. 

Next, I look at utilisation. What content 

is the sales team actually using? What 

training do they choose? Which tools 

are they using and how well are they 

using them? 

Inevitably, I find huge amounts of ‘stuff’ 

that the sales team simply doesn't use. 

The 'sales technology stack' is one of my 

favourites. Organisations tend to brag 

about the software tools they have in place; 

the mentality is, ‘More equals better’ or the 

What content 

is the sales 

team actually 

using? What 

training do they 

choose? Which 

tools are they 

using and how 

well are they 

using them? 

Inevitably, I find 

huge amounts 

of ‘stuff’ that 

the sales 

team simply 

doesn't use 

corporate equivalent of ‘keeping up with 

the Joneses’. 

Too often, the sales technology stack is 

more for everyone else than it is for the 

sales team; managers love reporting from 

customer relationship management (CRM) 

systems, while marketing departments 

love content platforms. 

Don’t get me wrong, I think many of these 

are very powerful – but imagine how 

things would change if we approached 

it differently? 

For example, I can’t imagine a highperforming 

salesperson not embracing 

CRM systems, like Salesforce or HubSpot, 

as there are so many features that improve 

effectiveness and efficiency. 

If salespeople are using these existing 

tools well, the business gets greater value 

from them. 

Management solutions 

The next element to address is coaching. 

By this, I mean managers and sales 

leaders helping the team to learn, develop 

new approaches and ways of thinking, and 

acquire new capabilities. 

Most managers spend less than three 

hours per month coaching everyone on 

their teams – and I suspect much of that 

‘coaching’ is saying, “Do this, don’t do that, 

tell me how it works out, send the next 

person in.” 

Instead, we must pay close attention to 

what our salespeople are currently doing 

and how they do it, consider what they 

might do differently, and engage them in 

these discussions. 

The reality is salespeople don’t really need 

that much – yet too often, we fail to give 

them that which they need the most! 

DAVID BROCK is CEO of Partners 

In Excellence, a global consultancy 

focused on helping organisations 

engage customers more effectively. He 

writes at: partnersinexcellenceblog.com 


BUSINESS 

Management 

The hidden syndrome that may 

be costing you more than money 

Fatigue, exhaustion, burnout – whatever the term used to describe it, this weariness can have 

severe consequences for business owners, writes DAVID BROWN. 

I recently met a couple named Tony and 

Julie, who were both in their late fifties 

and had recently “chucked it all in” – 

as Tony described it – after 19 years 

running a manufacturing company. 

Tony and Julie had decided to take a full 

year off to travel. 

Their jobs had been particularly 

stressful, but they didn’t realise to what 

extent until they stopped. 

“The first day we drove off down the 

road, we were both in tears from the 

relief,” said Julie. 

Even meeting them two months into 

their year-long break, Tony was still 

struggling to sleep at night and to 

adjust to the change of pace of their 

new lifestyle. 

Creeping stress 

Tony and Julie's situation is not 

uncommon; many business owners 

undergo continuous, large-scale stress 

in their business – yet they are oblivious 

to it, as it has become the ‘new normal’. 

Like a frog slowly boiling in a pot, it’s 

not until they are able to step back 

that they understand the toll that 

long hours and difficult decisions 

are taking on both their business 

and their health. 

It’s a syndrome not unknown to runners, 

many of whom report that they can keep 

running for long periods of time without 

feeling anything, then suddenly find their 

legs ‘crumble’ with pain and fatigue as 

soon as they stop. 

This is part of the body’s natural 

mechanism when under stress, 

which is to concentrate all resources 

into one area in order to meet and 

mitigate a threat. 

It allows us to summon the energy 

required to ward off a challenge, then 

focus on our recovery afterwards when 

the threat has gone. 

However, most people don’t reach the 

point of recovery, unfortunately choosing 

Relaxation is not only good for health, but also improves productivity. 

instead to continue in a permanent 

battle – much like a running race that 

never ends. 

Building pressure 

Although not as immediately life 

threatening, this has often been 

compared to battle fatigue. 

During World War II, more than 

500,000 soldiers were estimated to 

have been lost to fatigue. 

Furthermore, some 40 per cent of 

medical discharges from the armed 

forces were due to psychiatric reasons 

during this time – much of it attributed to 

the high level of stress tolerated for days 

on end with no respite. 

To a lesser degree, the business 

environment shares some of these 

stress points. 

Although no-one is holding a gun to a 

business owner’s head, many feel a 

constant financial threat hanging over 

them like a Sword of Damocles, ready to 

fall at any time. 

This, combined with the stress of human 

interaction and conflict from staff or 

customers, plus the pressure of selfimposed 

expectations, can create a 

bubbling sense of anxiety or even panic. 

At breaking point 

The surest way to relieve this pressure 

is to take regular time to recharge. 

Although 

no-one is 

holding a gun 

to a business 

owner’s head, 

many feel 

a constant 

financial threat 

hanging over 

them like 

a Sword of 

Damocles, 

ready to fall 

at any time 

Returning to the World War II example, 

historical records showed that those 

troops who were able to enjoy four days 

of 'R-and-R' – rest and recreation – 

every two weeks were found to have a 

longer tolerance to fatigue, often up to 

400 days or longer. 

Meanwhile, those who were constantly 

exposed to the battle lines without a 

break would succumb far sooner, usually 

at around the 200–240-day mark. 

The real question is, when did you last 

take a break of any significant period 

of time? 

Being at home during a lockdown hardly 

counts as a rest from work, especially 

given the increased stress that the last 

18 months have provided, both physically 

and financially. 

Once borders start to open and travel 

becomes a realistic option again, it 

may be time for you to plan a sustained 

break; something that provides an 

opportunity to recharge fully. 

If even a few days away sees you reacting 

like Tony and Julie, then it’s a clear sign 

that your stress ‘safety valve’ is not being 

triggered often enough. 

This indicates that you need to plan 

breaks as a more regular part of your 

business routine. 

Decide today to plan an extended period 

away – one where you don’t take work 

with you, and where you have at least 

a few days of being completely out of 

range for email or phone calls. 

The reduction in your stress levels and 

increase in your productivity when you 

return just might be the best investment 

in your health – and business – that you 

could make. 

DAVID BROWN is co-founder 

and business mentor with Retail 

Edge Consultants. Learn more: 

retailedgeconsultants.com 


BUSINESS 

Marketing & PR 

Repetition makes reputation: 

How to communicate your message effectively 

DONNA ST JEAN CONTI explains the complex psychology behind repetition as a 

marketing technique and how best to utilise it in your business. 

As the famous beauty entrepreneur 

Elizabeth Arden once said, “Repetition 

makes reputation and reputation 

makes customers.” 

Influencing an audience is a process that 

often requires repetition. 

One first repeats a message enough times 

for an audience to take notice, then again 

for them to make sense of it – relative to 

their own biases and filters – and again to 

inspire them to take action. 

How many repetitions it takes to inspire 

action remains debated, as a message 

must be repeated enough times for 

the target audience to notice and 

engage – but not so many times that 

it becomes annoying. 

One way to avoid ‘burning out’ an 

audience is to maintain the key message 

while changing its method of delivery. 

This is where the value of multiple 

marketing campaigns, based around 

a single or few basic themes, comes 

into play. 

The psychology of repetition 

Repetition is a crucial part of effectively 

gaining an audience’s attention, but it also 

has a point of diminishing returns. 

A 2013 study by German researchers 

found that there are two counteracting 

effects that occur when one uses repetition 

to persuade another. 

The first they described as the “truth 

effect”, where people find a message 

more credible the more they hear and 

see it. 

However, the second is a reaction in 

which the target audience recognises the 

message as an attempt to persuade them, 

resulting in a negative association that 

“reduces the participants’ trust in 

the source”. 

In summary, repeating a message 

can increase the trustworthiness and 

credibility of a product – but it can turn into 

a nuisance if done incorrectly. 

To ensure your message is heard, follow the principles of repetition. 

Using repetition effectively 

Communications strategist Adrian 

Dearnell has provided a few pointers 

for creating a memorable marketing 

message that isn’t annoying. 

While Dearnell emphasises the 

importance of repeating your 

message, he also advocates for a 

‘less is more’ mentality. 

In an article for business publication 

Forbes, Dearnell explains that an effective 

message starts with a single overriding 

communications objective that is 

supported by three key points. 

Simply put, the message should be 

defined as an overarching idea that 

is then elaborated upon by three 

underlying points. 

By structuring the message this way, 

Dearnell writes, “You can turn every 

difficult question into an opportunity to 

restate your message and come back to 

your point,” when presented with inquiries 

from journalists and potential customers. 

In addition to establishing a simple but 

substantial message, repetition is a must 

in an age where people are bombarded 

with information on a daily basis. 

Dearnell explains this concept succinctly, 

writing, “Mention nine points once, and 

nothing will be remembered. 

A message must 

be repeated 

enough times 

for the target 

audience to 

notice and 

engage – but not 

so many times 

that it becomes 

annoying 

"Mention three points three times, and one 

thing may be remembered.” 

At this point, it’s important to think about 

different channels for communicating the 

message, as this variety will help to avoid 

annoying your audience. 

Writing for small business online platform 

Chron, scientist and writer Lisa Magloff 

explains, “The idea behind repetition is 

that when the consumer goes to buy a 

particular product, the name of your brand 

is the first one that comes to mind. 

“Another way to use repetition is to place 

the product or brand in as many places 

as possible – for example, print ads in 

newspapers and magazines, television ads, 

radio ads and [utilising] product placement 

on television shows or in movies.” 

When these factors are considered, 

the result is a message that is 

memorable, repeatable, and 

unwavering when questioned. 

Concluding thoughts 

Influencing an audience in an age of 

‘information inundation’ is a process 

that will only get more difficult as 

technology advances. 

Yet, with a message that is simple, 

supported by smaller points, and 

repeated many times in various 

ways, one can effectively reach the 

minds of consumers. 

Most importantly, the varied repetition 

of your message will ensure that the 

target remembers it as a credible and 

trustworthy product – rather than a 

blatant attempt to persuade them. 

DONNA ST JEAN CONTI is president 

of St. Conti Communications, an 

award-winning full-service marketing 

communications agency specialising 

in public relations, social media, 

and writing support. Visit: 

stconticommunications.com 


BUSINESS 

Logged On 

Five reasons why your SEO strategy 

isn’t producing results 

GARRY GRANT identifies the most common reasons your business’ website is 

falling short of expectations on Google, despite your best efforts. 

Search engine optimisation (SEO) is a 

good digital marketing investment for 

most companies because, when done 

correctly, it brings in a steady stream of 

'clicks' that turn into customers. 

It also works continuously, whereas payper-click 

(PPC) advertising stops being 

effective the second you stop paying for it. 

However, a lot of SEO efforts aren’t what 

you'd expect them to be – and if your SEO isn’t 

producing the return on investment you’d 

hoped for, there are several reasons why. 

Let’s take a closer look at five of the most 

common reasons you’re not getting the most 

of your SEO campaigns. 

Your expectations are off 

SEO takes skill, expertise, and most 

importantly, time and effort. 

It’s unreasonable to expect the average 

campaign to produce results before it hits the 

four-to-six-month mark, and that’s after a 

great deal of adjustment along the way. 

Every SEO campaign is different, but a 

standard campaign flow is: 

• Month one – Research and discovery 

• Month two – Technical SEO work 

• Month three – Content creation 

• Month four – Optimisation and 

link profiling 

• Month five – Social media integration 

and campaigning 

The real impact doesn’t begin until well into 

the second month. 

Typically, it isn’t until the sixth month when 

the adjustments are in place and Google has 

had a chance to register them that you should 

attempt to determine if the campaign was 

successful or not. 

Measuring before then could skew 

the results. 

Your campaign is under-resourced 

Increased spending doesn’t necessarily 

mean better or faster results. However, you 

Work through this simple checklist to determine your SEO weak points. 

should allocate enough financial resources 

to take the kind of action that will produce 

measurable results. 

Try increasing your SEO budget and 

monitor for changes over a period of 

three to six months. 

If you cannot increase your budget, 

adjust your expectations and narrow your 

strategy; focusing on content creation and 

improving the other basics of SEO is more 

cost-effective than spreading a limited 

budget too thin. 

Your content needs improvement 

Google wants to provide the content for 

which users are searching and help them 

accomplish what they set out to do. 

Some queries are for information, 

others are for navigation, and others 

are transactional. 

You must be able to identify the intent 

behind the keywords for which people are 

searching and use that intent to structure 

your content. 

Blogging every day is pointless if you don’t 

offer your readers something of value! 

Not only that, but your content needs to 

be well-written in terms of spelling and 

grammar. Too much poor content – either 

in terms of readability or in terms of 

relevancy – and you’ll have trouble gaining 

any kind of search-engine rank. 

Adjust your 

expectations 

and narrow 

your strategy; 

focusing on 

content creation 

and improving 

the other basics 

of SEO is more 

cost-effective 

than spreading 

a limited budget 

too thin 

Your backlink profile is poor 

The inbound links to your site matter greatly 

to Google. If the sites linking to your site are 

poor quality, you won’t get good results. 

It can hurt your Google search rank if your 

backlink profile is fully of ‘spammy’ or 

irrelevant sites; too much can earn you a 

penalty which could temporarily – or even 

permanently – remove your site from the 

organic search results. 

Check your site’s backlink profile with a tool 

like Open Site Explorer to look for any ‘toxic’ 

links, and then take steps to remove them. 

Your competition is working harder 

When it comes to SEO and your competition, 

you’re both working toward the same goal, 

and ultimately only one of you can win – or so 

the logic goes. 

However, this is a misconception. Your 

competition may get ahead of you 

occasionally, and sometimes even rank 

higher than you for a long time – but that 

doesn’t mean your SEO efforts aren’t making 

a difference and paying off. 

Good SEO, on a continuous basis, is what 

keeps you from sliding back in the search 

results and out of the picture completely 

when the competition experiences a 

‘growth spurt’. 

Additionally, if your competition suddenly 

seems to be ranking higher than you, wait 

and see if the rank improvement holds. SEO 

is constantly changing; chances are, you’ll 

see the ranks shift in your favour again. 

When you begin any kind of SEO campaign, 

be sure you conduct a thorough competitive 

analysis, so you know what you’re up against. 

This will help you in developing the best 

strategy for your budget and goals, which 

will also assist in terms of setting reasonable 

expectations. 

GARRY GRANT is a veteran expert in 

search engine optimisation and the 

digital marketing industry. He is CEO of 

consultancy SEO Inc. Visit: seoinc.com 


My Bench 

Roberto Mattei 

Roberto Mattei Jewellery Design, Sydney NSW 

Age 51 Years in Trade 30 • Training Five years of jewellery school and a few years with the masters • First job Laboro Jewellery Workshop of Roberto Mattei, Rome, 

Italy 1997 • Other Qualifications Degree in marketing management and communication 

SIGNATURE PIECE 

‘MY CITY' RING 

WINNER – CAD AWARD, JAA AUSTRALASIAN 

JEWELLERY AWARDS 2019 

This is a dividable modular ring with customisable settings 

inspired by city landscapes. It is made from 18-carat yellow, 

white and rose gold, steel, titanium and osmium, set with white 

diamonds and Argyle cognac diamonds. 

4FAVOURITE GEMSTONE Peridot, because it is a 

relatively inexpensive stone with beautiful brightness 

and variations of light green colour. 

4FAVOURITE METAL Green gold [electrum] 

because it was the gold of my beginnings! It gave life 

when I did my castings on my early handmade floral 

creations, and always give me good memories. 

4FAVOURITE TOOL The hydrogen torch because 

after a life spent working in between hazardous gases 

and acids, the power of the hydrogen produces a 

much safer, hotter and cleaner flame. It’s even easier 

to set up! 

4BEST NEW TOOL DISCOVERY Laser engraver 

because, apart from the capability to do the deepest 

marking, I use it in an extreme way in cutting intricate 

sheets of metal with a surreal precision. This 

powerful tool allowed me to explore new boundaries 

that support the kind of design that I do, which is 

impossible to reach just with the conventional tools. 

4BEST PART OF THE JOB The first half an hour 

brainstorming with my wife about every new project 

that we start! 

4WORST PART OF THE JOB Wrapping a finished 

product to be delivered to the customer.! 

4BEST TIP FROM A JEWELLER “One hundred 

measurements, one cut,” from my Italian jewellery 

schoolteacher and master jeweller Edoardo Ermini. 

He wrote it on the board on the first day of class, in 

1985, without explanation. Every day from then until 

now, I’ve lived the meaning which is ‘be extremely 

precise’. 

4BEST TIP TO A JEWELLER Use any tool and don’t 

limit the way you can use them to achieve your 

final piece. And your brain – as my current, smart 

apprentice reminded me – is the most powerful tool. 

4BIGGEST HEALTH CONCERN ON THE BENCH 

Inhaled asbestos during soldering on the board 

before it was banned in 1992. 

4LOVE JEWELLERY BECAUSE It gives me a chance 

to listen to what my customers want, and from 

there create a raw piece of flawless design where 

every piece of the pattern is made artistically and 

imaginatively unique, as I believe that my customers 

deserve the best. 


OPINION 

Soapbox 

Let’s communicate – if only it was that easy! 

Contact is key when it comes to retail, but too many retailers – and suppliers – are overwhelmed by 

the many different channels of communication, writes JOSHUA ZARB. 

Like all of us, I have a deep love and 

passion for the jewellery industry – so 

much so that I decided to put everything 

on the line right as COVID-19 hit in 2020 

and start, from scratch, what is now one 

of four buying groups within Australia. 

From the moment we launched, I had 

never been more motivated to try and 

assist independent jewellery businesses 

with anything and everything to assist them 

to thrive in the modern retail landscape. 

With that in mind, during this time I have 

witnessed an ever-increasing divide 

between those business owners who have 

adapted to the digital jewellery landscape 

and those that have not. 

Whether we like or not, our customers 

have changed the way they communicate 

with us, and we are now forced to step 

up to the plate and provide levels of 

communication and service that simply 

didn’t exist as little as five years ago. 

Now, I am by no means a 'tech head' and 

this article isn’t about why we all need to 

be Facebook experts; but I am 44 years old 

and fall into a unique age bracket that 

allows me to understand both sides of the 

digital ‘fence’. 

I grew up riding push bikes, going to the 

beach and kicking a football for fun and 

I didn’t get my first proper computer 

until I was in my first year at university 

– but I was forced to use one from that 

moment onwards. 

I feel extremely lucky that I grew up 

meeting people face to face and having 

to pluck up the courage to ask for dates 

in person – I can’t even imagine swiping 

right on a mobile phone in order to have a 

fun Saturday night! – because it taught me 

skills useful in both life and business. 

Yet I still want to encourage retailers, 

suppliers, and manufacturers to learn 

about the different ways to communicate 

with customers that may not come 

as naturally as they do to the younger 

generations. 

It’s easy to feel like a jack-of-all-trades 

just to keep up with all the requests that 

come in each day. 

As an example, as I write this my phone 

has ‘dinged’ six different ways. I need to 

be able to understand what these different 

notifications mean, where they come 

from, how quickly I need to respond, 

and in which order. 

Meanwhile, one of IJC’s retailers has sent 

me an Instagram message to see if I know 

where to source a particular style of hoop 

earring, and I also have several new emails 

to respond to – as if I didn’t have enough to 

deal with! 

This example is relevant to both retailers 

and suppliers. 

Retailers, in particular, need to at 

least understand all the ways in which 

their customers will reach out and 

contact them. 

In addition to all the above, if I were a 

retailer, I could have simultaneously 

received a sale notification from my 

e-commerce platform, a live chat message 

via the website through a service like 

Podium, or a good old-fashioned phone 

call from a customer. 

We all need to be ready to respond in 

different ways. 

For suppliers, it’s a little easier – they 

can simply ask retailers how they prefer 

to be contacted, take a note of it, and stick 

with that. 

I want to 

encourage 

retailers, 

suppliers, and 

manufacturers 

to learn about 

the different 

ways to 

communicate 

with customers 

that may 

not come as 

naturally as 

they do to 

the younger 

generations 

However, that doesn’t excuse suppliers 

from learning how to use different 

communication services and platforms. 

Personally, I still like meeting face to face 

and picking up the phone – old school, 

I know – but I think there are some 

basic skills that can help us all be more 

effective communicators with customers 

who are digitally-orientated. 

It’s simple things like learning how to 

take screenshots of your mobile phone, 

cropping that image, and saving it, adding 

text, then sending the image to someone 

across as many platforms as you can. 

It’s learning how to use a ‘snipping’ tool 

on your computer and snip images or 

text and send it to yourself as an email 

attachment, so you can save it as an 

image on your phone to send on to others. 

It’s learning how to crop an image in 

PowerPoint and save something as a PDF. 

If any of the above doesn’t make sense to 

you straight away, reach out for help from 

someone who knows. 

Once we nail the basics, we can get onto 

the fun stuff like sending effective email 

communications to drive sales, using SMS 

to reduce overdues, and setting up a social 

media storefront for the business. 

At the end of the day, your business will 

ultimately be valued on the strength of 

your communication – that's why learning 

these new ways of communicating should 

be your first priority. 

Name: Joshua Zarb 

Business: Independent Jewellers 

Collective 

Position: CEO 

Location: Sydney, New South Wales 

Years in the industry: 17 


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Jeweller - October 2021

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