Jeweller - October 2021

• Home advantage: Australian and New Zealand brands prove their worth • Lab-grown up: innovations and market developments in the lab-created diamond category • Christmas ready: prepare for the holiday season with exciting new products

• Home advantage: Australian and New Zealand brands prove their worth
• Lab-grown up: innovations and market developments in the lab-created diamond category
• Christmas ready: prepare for the holiday season with exciting new products


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OCTOBER <strong>2021</strong><br />

Home advantage<br />



Lab-grown up<br />



Christmas ready<br />





EVERY<br />


MOMENT<br />



Specialist in all fancy-shapes<br />

GIA / HRD / IGI / RBC Certified stones in stock<br />

Matched fancy and unique pairs<br />

Calibrated melee in RBC and fancy shapes<br />

Quality diamond-set jewellery<br />

P +61 3 9650 2243<br />


L13/227 COLLINS STREET<br />

MELBOURNE VIC 3000<br />


Helping you shine<br />

yesterday, today<br />

& tomorrow.<br />


Swarovski Created Diamonds


The new exclusive distributor of Swarovski Created Diamonds<br />

Australia and New Zealand<br />

Swarovski’s most astonishing innovations have always emerged from the company’s legacy of craftsmanship<br />

and technology. Swarovski Created Diamonds are no exception – a feat of master cutting and a move<br />

towards more conscious materials.<br />

100% DIAMONDS<br />

Our lab-created diamonds<br />

are crafted by simulating<br />

the natural processes that<br />

occur in the formation of<br />

mined diamonds.<br />

Just as a greenhouse-grown<br />

orchid is identical to one<br />

found in nature, a Swarovski<br />

Created Diamond faithfully<br />

reflects the growth process<br />

of mined diamonds.<br />


Swarovski Created Diamonds<br />

are perfected with master<br />

faceting for maximum light<br />

exposure. Designed in tandem<br />

with shapes dedicated to<br />

enhancing brilliance, this<br />

faceting unlocks the inner<br />

radiance found in each of our<br />

lab-grown diamonds.<br />


All Swarovski Created<br />

Diamonds are hand-selected<br />

and graded according to the<br />

industry specific 4Cs (Clarity,<br />

Cut, Color and Carat) by our<br />

gemologists to ensure their<br />

brilliance, with each stone of<br />

0.70 carat and larger<br />

accompanied by a report<br />

from an independent<br />

gemological institute.<br />


This unique display allows<br />

you to present the loose lab<br />

created diamonds in an<br />

exclusive way, providing at<br />

the same time education to<br />

the end consumer as well as<br />

giving them a choice of<br />

beautifully crafted Swarovski<br />

Created Diamonds.<br />


Swarovski Created Diamonds<br />

are supplied as loose stones<br />

and are offered in six classic<br />

diamond shapes and 19<br />

astonishing fancy colours.<br />

Available from DGA in a variety<br />

of colour and clarity ranges<br />

(D-I, VVS-SI) from 0.50 ct to<br />

2.50 ct; other sizes on request.<br />


As proof of origin, each<br />

Swarovski Created<br />

Diamond 0.10ct/3mm and<br />

larger carries a laser<br />

engraving, visible only<br />

under strong magnification,<br />

identifying it as an<br />

authentic Swarovski jewel<br />

of extraordinary beauty.

Our Australian sapphire jewellery collection is crafted in 9ct or diamond set 18ct gold.<br />

Sapphire Dreams certifies and inscribes every sapphire greater than 0.75ct to ensure their Australian origin.<br />

Australia is enriched with amazing treasures. Sapphire Dreams pays tribute to the beauty of natural<br />

Australian sapphires, ethically sourced from the sapphire fields of inland Eastern Australia.<br />

To achieve this level of uncompromised excellence, all sapphires pass through the hands of our skilled gem<br />

cutters to become one-of-a-kind, timeless masterpieces.

Call SGA today to become an Authorised Stockist<br />

SapphireDreams.com.au 02 9290 2199

Uniting the<br />

Industry<br />

The national program to KICKSTART the future.<br />

Join us to reconnect, network and celebrate.<br />

ewellery<br />

• TRADE DAYS •<br />


February 5 – 6, 2022<br />

SYDNEY<br />

February 12 – 13, 2022<br />


March 5 – 6, 2022<br />

PERTH<br />

March 12 – 13, 2022<br />


March 20 – 21, 2022<br />

phone: +61 2 9452 7575 • email: jewelleryfair@expertiseevents.com.au<br />

Est. 1990

OCTOBER <strong>2021</strong><br />

Contents<br />

This Month<br />

Industry Facets<br />

11 Editor’s Desk<br />

12 Upfront<br />

14 News<br />

40 <strong>Jeweller</strong>s Showcase<br />

22<br />

24<br />

26<br />

29<br />

10 YEARS AGO<br />

Time Machine: <strong>October</strong> 2011<br />

NOW & THEN<br />

JM Leech <strong>Jeweller</strong>s<br />

MY STORE<br />

Harriet Kelsall Bespoke <strong>Jeweller</strong>y<br />


Matrix & boulder opal<br />


Dazzling potential<br />

4The lab-created diamond category<br />

has seen another year of expansion and<br />

innovation, yet it is not immune to<br />

challenges, writes ARABELLA RODEN.<br />

Features<br />

30<br />


All that glitters<br />

84<br />

86<br />

MY BENCH<br />

Roberto Mattei<br />


Joshua Zarb<br />

45<br />

70<br />


Christmas ready<br />


Homegrown heroes<br />

Better Your Business<br />


Special delivery<br />

4Ensure your store is well-stocked for the<br />

holiday shopping season with products and<br />

services compiled by <strong>Jeweller</strong>.<br />

78<br />

80<br />

81<br />

82<br />

83<br />


DENYSE DRUMMOND-DUNN reveals how to increase sales with segmentation.<br />


DAVID BROCK explores how managers can support sales staff effectively.<br />


There is a hidden syndrome eating away at productivity, writes DAVID BROWN.<br />


DONNA ST JEAN CONTI explains the importance of repetition in marketing.<br />


GARRY GRANT provides a simple strategy for improving your SEO results.<br />

29 LEARN ABOUT<br />

Matrix &<br />

boulder opal<br />

4Natural opal takes<br />

an unusual form<br />

with unique, vibrant<br />

matrix and boulder<br />

specimens.<br />

FRONT COVER Swarovski Created<br />

Diamonds are the marriage of art and<br />

science – a true celebration of human<br />

ingenuity and creativity. They are crafted<br />

by simulating the natural processes<br />

that form diamonds, before masterful<br />

faceting unlocks the radiance in each<br />

one. All Swarovski Created Diamonds<br />

are hand-selected and graded by<br />

gemmologists, and engineered with a<br />

carbon-neutral footprint. Distributed by<br />

Duraflex Group Australia.<br />

<strong>October</strong> <strong>2021</strong> | 9

Editor’s Desk<br />

Some battles have losers, while others<br />

create two winners<br />

As the diamond war has subsided, so too has the debate around how the natural<br />

and lab-created categories can thrive in peace, writes ARABELLA RODEN.<br />

When <strong>Jeweller</strong> published the first ‘Great<br />

Diamond Debate' – natural versus labcreated<br />

– in December 2018, the battle lines<br />

had been well and truly drawn.<br />

It was the early days and representatives<br />

from each side fought on every topic, from<br />

terminology and nomenclature, to marketing,<br />

value, sustainability, and ethics.<br />

Needless to say, the industry was heavily<br />

divided with palpable tension between the<br />

natural and lab-created camps. In many<br />

ways, the animosity was understandable; few<br />

knew what the lab-created category would<br />

mean for the natural diamond industry.<br />

Would consumers – increasingly driven by<br />

sustainability concerns and enthusiastic<br />

‘greenwashed’ marketing – abandon mined<br />

gemstones altogether?<br />

Would they be hoodwinked into purchasing<br />

factory-made rocks with no real ‘value’,<br />

leading to the collapse of companies with<br />

decades of history and thousands of jobs?<br />

In a move that, at one time, seemed<br />

unfathomable, the natural side also saw a<br />

high-profile ‘defection’ – the diamond mining<br />

juggernaut De Beers joined the adversaries,<br />

and established lab-created diamond retailer<br />

Lightbox Jewelry, which now leads the very<br />

category it once stood against.<br />

Yet just a year later, when <strong>Jeweller</strong> published<br />

the second edition of the ‘Great Diamond<br />

Debate’ – fact versus fiction – tempers had<br />

cooled dramatically as a more realistic<br />

picture of the lab-created category emerged.<br />

The conversation had shifted from a conflict<br />

between righteous, venerable industry and<br />

upstart competitors, to the importance of<br />

transparency, honesty, and differentiation<br />

between two relatively equal products; a<br />

diamond is a diamond.<br />

Today, the rhetoric has softened even further,<br />

and the battlegrounds have devolved to<br />

skirmishes – tit-for-tat reporting of marketing<br />

slogans to advertising watchdogs, swiftly<br />

corrected and forgotten. The dire predictions<br />

have failed to materialise.<br />

As some prophetic industry commentators<br />

foresaw, lab-created diamonds have<br />

settled into their own niche, accounting for<br />

approximately 3 per cent of overall diamond<br />

sales, and with annual production at around<br />

5 per cent of mined stones (in 2020, the<br />

figures were 6–7 million and 111 million<br />

carats). It makes up a sizable dollar value for<br />

a market that once didn’t exist!<br />

Have lab-created diamonds become – to<br />

borrow a tech industry phrase – the ‘great<br />

disruptor’ of natural diamonds? In short, no.<br />

But perhaps they have gone one better.<br />

It is easy to forget that competition is the<br />

cornerstone of capitalism. Competitors<br />

force incumbent businesses to innovate and<br />

improve, creating better products, more<br />

choice, and value for consumers.<br />

Every headline extolling the eco-friendly<br />

benefits of lab-created diamonds is a chance<br />

for the natural diamond industry to explain<br />

that sustainability also includes human<br />

development – one of its major strengths,<br />

having helped to drag entire nations out of<br />

poverty during the 20th Century.<br />

Conservation initiatives, social programs, and<br />

jobs in developing nations are nothing to be<br />

sneered at – a salient point that was recently<br />

made in The Guardian, of all publications.<br />

Indeed, it could be argued that lab-created<br />

diamond companies have pushed mining<br />

companies to examine their impact and<br />

long-term sustainability.<br />

The reverse is also true; mining companies<br />

have consistently held lab-created diamond<br />

producers to account, calling for transparency<br />

in the supply chain and manufacturing<br />

process, and demanding they prove the<br />

generous eco claims in their advertising.<br />

With approximately 60 per cent of lab-created<br />

diamonds manufactured in China under<br />

relatively opaque conditions, the questions<br />

are not unreasonable.<br />

It is quite possible that the entire diamond<br />

trade has become all the more responsible,<br />

accountable and simply better for challenging<br />

its counterpart. As fate would have it, only<br />

diamonds can polish diamonds.<br />

Many lab-created diamond manufacturers<br />

have gladly risen to the challenge,<br />

approaching third-parties for independent<br />

certification on carbon neutrality, water<br />

use, and more. Perhaps anticipating<br />

scrutiny, Pandora Jewelry commissioned an<br />

independent assessment of its first labcreated<br />

diamond collection, Brilliance – and<br />

Have labcreated<br />

diamonds<br />

become – to<br />

borrow a<br />

tech industry<br />

phrase – the<br />

‘great disruptor’<br />

of natural<br />

diamonds? In<br />

short, no. But<br />

perhaps they<br />

have gone<br />

one better<br />

made the results publicly available at its<br />

launch this year.<br />

One must wonder whether those findings<br />

would have been made public if it went<br />

the ‘other way’ – but it is likely that the<br />

natural diamond sector would have had<br />

something to say about it, as they did when<br />

they protested that Pandora had implied it<br />

had switched to lab-created diamonds for<br />

ethical and sustainability reasons.<br />

While eco-friendly credentials are likely to<br />

remain a bone of contention, the upshot<br />

is two industries striving to create more<br />

transparent and positive products.<br />

And what does this mean for the consumer?<br />

Good things! They are the winners in market<br />

competition, gaining the benefit of choice<br />

to select products that best suit their needs<br />

and their budget.<br />

Indeed, it is the latter that appears to<br />

differentiate lab-created diamonds<br />

most plainly.<br />

A recent consumer survey, conducted by<br />

market research firm The MVEye, found that<br />

while sustainability and ‘green’ credentials<br />

are top of mind when consumers consider<br />

lab-created diamonds, the most important<br />

trigger for purchase is being able to obtain a<br />

larger diamond for less money.<br />

To those who believe that size matters,<br />

lab-created diamonds provide an affordable<br />

alternative. Lightbox Jewelry recently<br />

extended its range to include premium<br />

stones up to 2 carats; incredibly, in 2013<br />

the largest lab-created diamond in the<br />

world – manufactured by Gemesis Diamond<br />

Company – weighed just 1.29 carats.<br />

It is thrilling to consider how the technology<br />

could mature in the coming years, and how<br />

the natural diamond industry will respond,<br />

perhaps creating further value through<br />

innovative cutting and polishing, ever-more<br />

advanced and secure provenance, creative<br />

marketing campaigns, and exclusive<br />

jewellery collections – all of which have<br />

come to the fore in recent years due to<br />

competitive pressure.<br />

It is a cliché, but nonetheless true – without<br />

pressure, we would have no diamonds.<br />

Arabella Roden<br />

Editor<br />

<strong>October</strong> <strong>2021</strong> | 11

Upfront<br />

#Instagram hashtags to follow<br />

#akoyapearl<br />

79,251+ POSTS<br />

#bijoux<br />

12.1 MILLION POSTS<br />

#chocolatediamonds<br />

20,557+ POSTS<br />

#opalring<br />

251,929+ POSTS<br />

#pinktopaz<br />

19,884+ POSTS<br />


The Arco<br />

Valley Pearl<br />

4The 575-carat Arco Valley Pearl<br />

is one of the largest natural pearls<br />

in the world. A saltwater baroque<br />

pearl, it is believed to date back to the<br />

11th Century and count Mongolian<br />

emperor Kublai Khan and Marco Polo<br />

among its previous owners.<br />

#radiantcut<br />

49,405+ POSTS<br />

#rosegoldring<br />

95,697+ POSTS<br />

#rubyearrings<br />

42,653+ POSTS<br />

#silverjewelry<br />


#tsavorite<br />

233,915+ POSTS<br />

Alpha Order<br />

Holes in the pearl suggest it was once<br />

mounted in a tiara or crown. The rest of the pearl's history is unknown, but<br />

it eventually passed into the possession of Austrian nobility, the Arco-Valley<br />

family, from which it derives its current name. The pearl was auctioned in<br />

Abu Dhabi in 2007, valued at $US8 million. The buyer of the pearl and its<br />

current whereabouts are unknown, though it is believed to be in Europe.<br />

Celebrity Style<br />

4Actress Yara Shahidi stunned on the<br />

red carpet at this year's Emmy Awards<br />

wearing a suite of Cartier jewellery<br />

from the Cactus de Cartier Collection,<br />

which is inspired by spiked succulents.<br />

The necklace is crafted in 18-carat<br />

yellow gold set with 170 emeralds<br />

and 204 brilliant-cut diamonds, while<br />

the earrings feature 12 brilliant-cut<br />

diamonds set in 18-carat yellow gold.<br />

Image credit: Getty Images<br />

Image credit: House of Gübelin<br />

Stranger Things<br />

Weird, wacky and wonderful<br />

jewellery news from around the world<br />

Mystery solved<br />

4A woman found on a remote<br />

part of an island in Croatia last<br />

month has been identified as a<br />

former celebrity jeweller. Friends<br />

recognised Slovakian-born Daniela<br />

Adamcova, who previously lived<br />

in Los Angeles and counted Diana<br />

Ross and Barbra Streisand among<br />

her customers, from police photos.<br />

Adamcova was spotted sitting<br />

on a rocky outcrop by a passing<br />

fisherman, who alerted authorities.<br />

She was rescued but had no<br />

memory, phone or identification.<br />

Spectacular specs<br />

4Two pairs of unusual 17th<br />

Century spectacles from the<br />

court of India's Mughal Empire<br />

will be auctioned by Sotheby's<br />

this month. The jewel-encrusted<br />

glasses – named the 'Halo of Light'<br />

and 'Gates of Paradise' – feature<br />

lenses believed to have been<br />

cleaved from a 200-carat diamond<br />

and a 300-carat Colombian<br />

emerald. They have been valued at<br />

£1.5–2.5 million each.<br />

Under a<br />

cryptocurrency<br />

model, customers<br />

would bear<br />

Afterpay's<br />

transaction costs.<br />

Digital Brainwave<br />

4Buy-now, pay-later service Afterpay<br />

has urged the Australian government to<br />

introduce a framework to facilitate the<br />

introduction of cryptocurrencies to its<br />

platform. Doing so would allow the company<br />

to remove many of its merchant fees by<br />

eliminating its reliance on banks.<br />

“Merchants stand to benefit considerably<br />

from the cryptocurrency model, as [debit]<br />

card network fees are entirely removed from<br />

the equation,” Afterpay representatives said<br />

in a Senate inquiry submission.<br />

Jewel Watch<br />

4The House of Gübelin has unveiled its<br />

latest jewellery creation, the Cascading<br />

Springs cocktail ring (above). Featuring<br />

an 8.68-carat emerald and 239 other<br />

gemstones, the design is inspired<br />

by the lush landscape and flowing<br />

waterfalls of the Santa Rosa de Cabal<br />

Hot Springs in Colombia. It took 350<br />

hours to complete.<br />

Keep your hair on!<br />

4Talk about an expensive hairstyle!<br />

Mexican rapper Dan Sur has<br />

taken jewellery to the next level<br />

by having gold and diamond-studded<br />

chains surgically implanted<br />

in his scalp. The performer said, "The<br />

truth is that I wanted to do something<br />

different because I see that everyone<br />

dyes their hair. I hope not everyone<br />

copies me now... This is my hair –<br />

golden hair. The first rapper to have<br />

gold hair implanted in human history."<br />

Sur reportedly underwent the<br />

procedure in April this year.<br />


Published by Befindan Media Pty Ltd<br />

Locked Bag 26, South Melbourne, VIC 3205 AUSTRALIA | ABN 66 638 077 648 | Phone: +61 3 9696 7200 | Subscriptions & Enquiries: info@jewellermagazine.com<br />

Publisher Angela Han angela.han@jewellermagazine.com • Editor Arabella Roden arabella.roden@jewellermagazine.com • Production Lauren McKinnon art@befindanmedia.com<br />

Advertising Toli Podolak toli.podolak@jewellermagazine.com • Accounts Paul Blewitt finance@befindanmedia.com<br />

Copyright All material appearing in <strong>Jeweller</strong> is subject to copyright. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly forbidden without prior written consent of the publisher. Befindan Media Pty Ltd<br />

strives to report accurately and fairly and it is our policy to correct significant errors of fact and misleading statements in the next available issue. All statements made, although based on information<br />

believed to be reliable and accurate at the time, cannot be guaranteed and no fault or liability can be accepted for error or omission. Any comment relating to subjective opinions should be addressed to<br />

the editor. Advertising The publisher reserves the right to omit or alter any advertisement to comply with Australian law and the advertiser agrees to indemnify the publisher for all damages or liabilities<br />

arising from the published material.

SINCE 1998<br />


9 CARAT & 18 CARAT<br />



3pt - 30pt<br />

(03) 9663 2321<br />





News<br />

In Brief<br />

Pandora announces new<br />

Gen Z spokespeople<br />

4 Pandora Jewelry has announced a raft of<br />

new celebrity faces as part of its strategy<br />

to appeal to Gen Z and Millennial shoppers,<br />

which it estimates will constitute 60 per<br />

cent of luxury consumers by 2025. These<br />

include new Pandora 'Muses' Precious<br />

Lee, Cici Xiang, and the first male ‘Muse’,<br />

actor and skateboarder Evan Mock, and<br />

the Pandora ME Collective, including TikTok<br />

star Addison Rae and singer Charli XCX.<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong>y ‘Stock Up & Top Up’ event gets goahead;<br />

full support from buying groups<br />

Delayed JCK Las Vegas<br />

delights attendees<br />

4 US jewellery trade fair JCK Las Vegas<br />

and its 'sister' event, JCK Luxury, had<br />

a successful return after being delayed<br />

due to the COVID-19 pandemic. Held<br />

from 24–30 August <strong>2021</strong>, organiser<br />

Reed Events said 1,200 exhibitors and<br />

more than 10,000 buyers attended. The<br />

next JCK Las Vegas – when the show<br />

will celebrate its 30th anniversary – is<br />

scheduled for 10–13 June 2022.<br />

Tech breakthrough<br />

for melee diamonds<br />

4 UK-based technology firm Opsydia<br />

has developed an ultra-precise laser<br />

marking technique that can place<br />

permanent identifying characters, such<br />

as codes or a logo, under the surface<br />

of melee diamonds. The technology has<br />

been used across diamond samples for<br />

the next phase of the Natural Diamond<br />

Council's Project Assure program, which<br />

assesses diamond detectors.<br />

New coloured gemstone<br />

grading system<br />

4Following three years of development,<br />

the Gübelin Gem Lab has announced<br />

a new rating system for coloured<br />

gemstones. Modelled after Robert<br />

Parker’s wine rating system, it assigns<br />

each specimen a numerical score from<br />

75 to 100, known as Gübelin Points,<br />

based on its gemmological qualities. The<br />

points system is based on thousands of<br />

gemstone reports analysed by Gübelin's<br />

Gemtelligence software.<br />

NSW Health has cleared Stock Up & Top Up Sydney to take place in November, with buying groups throwing their<br />

support behind the event.<br />

The NSW government’s recent announcement<br />

regarding the easing of COVID-19 restrictions<br />

has meant the pre-Christmas trade event,<br />

Stock Up & Top Up – scheduled for Sunday 7<br />

and Monday 8 November at the International<br />

Convention Centre (ICC), Darling Harbour – is<br />

approved to run.<br />

Gary Fitz-Roy, managing director of Stock<br />

Up & To Up organiser Expertise Events, said,<br />

“NSW Health has approved our event within<br />

the new orders, and we are updating our<br />

COVID plans.”<br />

Fitz-Roy added that the industry is in dire<br />

need of a trade event to reconnect, and that<br />

the current lockdown has had a very different<br />

impact on retailers than the 2020 lockdown.<br />

For those reasons, it is “even more significant<br />

that all four jewellery buying groups have<br />

announced that they will attend.”<br />

“Since announcing Stock Up & Top Up last<br />

week, it’s fantastic that Nationwide, Showcase,<br />

Independent <strong>Jeweller</strong>s Collective and Leading<br />

Edge are all supporting the event and will be<br />

there to meet their members and suppliers<br />

face-to-face to support uniting the industry at<br />

this most important time,” Fitz-Roy said.<br />

“There is such pent-up demand to reconnect<br />

and get on with our day-to-day routine and<br />

business, and it's an important time to ensure<br />

retailers have the latest stock, and enough<br />

stock, for Christmas and the New Year,”<br />

he added.<br />

Colin Pocklington, managing director of<br />

Nationwide <strong>Jeweller</strong>s, said, "Following a long<br />

lockdown period it is essential that retailers<br />

have a highly successful trading period in the<br />

lead up to Christmas.<br />

"Very buoyant trading in the states with<br />

minimal lockdown periods shows that<br />

consumers are looking to buy jewellery, just as<br />

they did following the lockdown from March to<br />

June in 2020.”<br />

Nicola Adams, chief operating officer,<br />

Showcase <strong>Jeweller</strong>s, said she was looking<br />

forward to the SUTU event.<br />

“I am sure it will be a great show for us to<br />

reconnect with our membership. Showcase<br />

is preparing for a strong Christmas once<br />

we finally re-open in many states after long<br />

lockdowns,” Adams said.<br />

Echoing Adams and Pocklington’s sentiments,<br />

Josh Zarb, CEO of Independent <strong>Jeweller</strong>s<br />

Collective, said, “The timing of Stock Up<br />

& Top Up works perfectly for us to provide<br />

our retailers the chance to see everything<br />

‘live’ and we will use the opportunity to<br />

look at as much product as possible for<br />

our 2022 season.”<br />

Claire Packett, head of category at Leading<br />

Edge Group <strong>Jeweller</strong>s, said she was “looking<br />

forward to welcoming members and suppliers<br />

to Stock Up & Top Up in November,” adding,<br />

“We also look forward to supporting and<br />

helping to bring people across the industry<br />

together, for what we hope is a strong and<br />

profitable Christmas for all.”<br />

Stock Up & Top Up will be hosted in a<br />

spacious Premier Room of the ICC Gallery,<br />

with a gift industry event in an adjacent room,<br />

and will include Christmas drinks on Sunday.<br />

Fitz-Roy explained that limited spaces would<br />

be available in order to maintain a sensible<br />

buyer-to-seller ratio, along with offering a<br />

cost-effective package.<br />

"We are all hoping that we can finish the year<br />

on a high,” he added.<br />

14 | <strong>October</strong> <strong>2021</strong>

Former Pandora executive accused of<br />

abandoning latest jewellery company<br />

Following the closure of his multi-level-marketing business JN <strong>Jeweller</strong>y, Jesper<br />

Nielsen came under fire as his fraught business history was revealed.<br />

Following the abrupt closure of his multi-level-marketing (MLM) jewellery<br />

business JN <strong>Jeweller</strong>y/JN Jewelry, many people came forward with<br />

additional information and complaints about its founder Jesper 'Kasi'<br />

Nielsen, a former Pandora Jewelry executive.<br />

While the MLM business model can offer a legitimate sales structure, the<br />

industry has been fraught with illegal operations that are, instead, pyramid<br />

schemes. Nielsen is believed to have launched JN <strong>Jeweller</strong>y in Europe in<br />

early 2020 and expanded into Australia in March <strong>2021</strong>.<br />

According to those involved, it had attracted more than 70,000 ‘ambassadors’<br />

– a buzz term used to describe salespeople recruited as paid members to<br />

sell the jewellery on a commission-only basis – at the time of its closure on<br />

10 September <strong>2021</strong>.<br />

A petition titled ‘Justice For Our Ambassadors for JN ruining their<br />

reputations’ published on the activist website Change.org says JN <strong>Jeweller</strong>y<br />

“shut down with zero warning”, claims that more 4,500 orders were still<br />

awaiting shipment, and that “thousands of ambassadors [members] haven’t<br />

even received July commissions, let alone August. Some have unspent<br />

credits they issued for their pay in their back office still.”<br />

Several former members have provided additional information about JN<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong>y, saying that Nielsen consistently promoted – and heavily relied<br />

upon – his previous connection with Pandora to attract new members.<br />

Mary Francese, a JN <strong>Jeweller</strong>y member from the US who started the<br />

Change.org petition, explained to jewellery industry publication JCK<br />

Online that she had spent four years working in various MLM businesses,<br />

saying that she was first attracted to JN <strong>Jeweller</strong>y through Facebook<br />

advertisements.<br />

“Usually very little stands out to me. But with COVID, the kitchenware brand<br />

I was working with had a lot of supply backups. And when I saw this post,<br />

it talked about jewellery, it talked about how it involved the co-founder of<br />

Pandora,” Francese said.<br />

“I thought, it would be stupid not to pursue this. Pandora was a really<br />

successful company. The product, the compensation plan, it all seemed<br />

perfect.”<br />

Francese, a stay-at-home mother, explained to JCK that she had “spent<br />

nearly seven months selling Jesper Nielsen (JN) jewellery, eventually<br />

becoming a company ‘World Leader’ and joining its customer service team”<br />

in a paid role; however, complaints from members quickly overwhelmed her.<br />


News<br />

Pandora Jewelry restructures Asia-Pacific operations<br />

Pandora is restructuring its Asia-Pacific operations, with<br />

its regional headquarters – excluding China – moving to<br />

Sydney. Image: Pandora x Disney Collection charms<br />

Just 18 months after restructuring its<br />

international operations, jewellery company<br />

Pandora has announced it will eliminate one of<br />

its 10 regional divisions, consolidating its Asia-<br />

Pacific operations in the process.<br />

The company announced the closure of<br />

three regional headquarters in March 2020<br />

– alongside the loss of 180 jobs – when it<br />

restructured the business into 10 ‘Clusters’, with<br />

the Asia-Pacific region divided into China, Pacific<br />

and Rest-of-Asia.<br />

However, the Rest-of-Asia division, including<br />

Hong Kong, Japan, and Singapore, will now be<br />

assimilated into existing Clusters.<br />

David Allen, current general manager of the<br />

Pacific Cluster – which includes Australia and<br />

New Zealand and is based in Sydney – will take<br />

control of the Japan and Singapore markets, as<br />

well as 11 other distributor-controlled markets<br />

throughout Southeast Asia and Korea.<br />

Allen told <strong>Jeweller</strong>, "The leadership team in<br />

the Pacific is reviewing the required resources,<br />

including the current organisational structure,<br />

to ensure that we are able to realise the full<br />

potential of our expanded Pacific and Greater<br />

Asia business."<br />

Meanwhile the Hong Kong, Taiwan, and Macau<br />

markets will be absorbed into the new Greater<br />

China Cluster, headquartered in Shanghai<br />

and led by current China general manager<br />

Jacques Roizen.<br />

The transition is scheduled to be completed<br />

by February 2022, at which point Rest-of-Asia<br />

general manager Alan Chan will depart<br />

the company.<br />

According to a statement from Pandora, the<br />

decision to reduce the number of regional<br />

clusters was made to “optimise our operating<br />

structure and create further commercial<br />

synergies – with the overall goal of capturing the<br />

growth opportunities that we are targeting in our<br />

new Phoenix strategy.”<br />

Phoenix is the title of Pandora’s new strategic<br />

initiative, announced at the end of Q1 <strong>2021</strong>.<br />

As part of the strategy, Pandora has announced<br />

it a DKK1 billion ($AU216 million) expansion<br />

of its southeast Asian manufacturing facilities,<br />

including a new factory in Vietnam.<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong>y sales slump as lockdowns continue; Christmas 'rebound' predicted<br />

Extended lockdowns in NSW and Victoria<br />

have taken a heavy toll on jewellery sales<br />

during September, according to data compiled<br />

by Retail Edge Consultants from stores<br />

across Australia.<br />

Overall, Retail Edge’s latest report found that<br />

sales in dollars decreased by 25 per cent<br />

compared with September 2020, while sales in<br />

units dropped by 28 per cent.<br />

All categories of jewellery recorded double-digit<br />

declines when compared with the same period<br />

last year.<br />

However, the steepest falls were sales of<br />

diamond-set precious metal jewellery and<br />

silver and alternative metals jewellery, which<br />

fell 31 per cent and 27 per cent respectively<br />

compared with September 2020, and 19 per cent<br />

and 18 per cent compared with September 2019.<br />

Commenting on the results, the report’s<br />

authors noted, “The figures are impacted by<br />

the number of stores with limited trading in<br />

September; however, the picture shows that<br />

those stores that were able to open during the<br />

month showed a strong rebound effect.<br />

“This has been the same pattern that we have<br />

observed each time there has been a lockdown<br />

and re-open process.<br />

"We believe that pattern will continue, so if<br />

you are closed, make sure that you are fully<br />

prepared for when you are able to open.<br />

Historically, there has been pent up consumer<br />

demand for jewellery when this happens.”<br />

The report went on to recommend jewellers<br />

encourage customers to “buy early” or put<br />

items on layby given the holiday shopping<br />

season is rapidly approaching.<br />

“Australia Post said that September parcel<br />

numbers were larger than their previous largest<br />

month, December 2020.<br />

"Out-of-stocks and shipping delays will<br />

be inevitable,” the report said. “Encourage<br />

customers to adopt the early bird philosophy –<br />

‘If you like it and you see it, buy it.’”<br />

Diamond-set precious metal jewellery was the hardesthit<br />

category in September as jewellery sales fell<br />

by 25 per cent across the board, though a Christmas<br />

recovery is expected.<br />

16 | <strong>October</strong> <strong>2021</strong>

Precious metal refinery and casting house publishes sustainability report<br />

Pallion has detailed its sustainability initiatives across<br />

the FY<strong>2021</strong> in a new report, including new recycling and<br />

low-waste technology.<br />

The Pallion group of companies – which includes<br />

ABC Refinery and Palloys – has released its<br />

annual sustainability report, which details<br />

the group’s policies and performance across<br />

environmental, community, health, and industrial<br />

standards.<br />

Titled Considerate Precious Metals, the report<br />

was developed by the company’s Sustainability,<br />

Environment, Health & Safety Committee with<br />

oversight from the Pallion board of directors,<br />

and was prepared in accordance with the Global<br />

Reporting Initiative, an independent, international<br />

standards organisation.<br />

David Woodford, chief commercial officer<br />

at Pallion, said, “At Pallion, the concept<br />

of sustainability is not about lip service to<br />

the market, it’s an important part of our<br />

business model.”<br />

Andrew Cochineas, CEO Pallion, added, “This<br />

report evidences the collective efforts of Pallion,<br />

its clients and suppliers to sustainability<br />

initiatives over the <strong>2021</strong> financial year and in that<br />

regard is a true representation of our corporate<br />

ethos of partnership.<br />

“Our hope is that continued improvement will<br />

result in collective social and commercial<br />

success,” he added.<br />

Notably, Pallion introduced a number of initiatives<br />

during the FY<strong>2021</strong> financial year to improve<br />

provenance and production of precious metals.<br />

ABC Refinery doubled the size of its Acidless<br />

Separation System (ALS) to establish what<br />

it claims is the largest ALS refining capacity<br />

worldwide; ALS provides “significant advantages<br />

to traditional refining techniques including inert<br />

refining emissions and significantly reduced<br />

refining time which in turn reduces energy<br />

consumption,” according to Pallion’s report.<br />

ABC Refinery also made “significant<br />

improvements” in the recovery of metallic silver<br />

from silver chloride, a by-product of electrolytic<br />

silver refining, and improved the extraction of<br />

residual precious metals at its sweeps treatment<br />

plant by 60 per cent through the installation of<br />

new crushing and grinding mechanisms.<br />

The report also explored Pallion's workplace<br />

diversity and charity initiatives.

News<br />

New Zealand jeweller launches new precious<br />

metal alloy following decade of development<br />

Master jeweller Hugh Gillbanks has spent more than 10 years developing Starium, a high-performance alloy, for<br />

the jewellery industry. Pictured: <strong>Jeweller</strong>y crafted from Starium; Hugh Gillbanks at the bench<br />



RRP $169 RRP $219 RRP $259<br />

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+61 413 872 810<br />




Following more than 10 years of development,<br />

a new metal alloy created by master jeweller<br />

Hugh Gillbanks is now available to the<br />

jewellery industry.<br />

The alloy, named Starium for its celestial<br />

lustre, polishes up to the same colour as<br />

rhodium but does not require rhodium<br />

plating, and has proven resistant to tarnish<br />

and corrosion as well as displaying superior<br />

workability, according to its inventor.<br />

Gillbanks told <strong>Jeweller</strong>, “You can roll it,<br />

fabricate it, it can be cast; it works exactly the<br />

same as any other metal you'd use.<br />

“The benefits are that it's a high-temperature<br />

metal, so it's very easy to solder and keep<br />

clean. When you're soldering it and you<br />

put it back into the acid, it takes away<br />

all the fireburn.<br />

“If you polish it first, it comes out exactly how<br />

you'd polish it after you'd worked with it,” he<br />

explained, adding, “<strong>Jeweller</strong>s will be blown<br />

away by what it does, what it's like to use, and<br />

what they can make with it. It files, bends, and<br />

sets beautifully. It seems too soft to set with at<br />

first, but it's harder than other metals."<br />

Gillbanks had begun his career in the industry<br />

at 16, later moving into luxury custom-makes,<br />

master patterns and design.<br />

He began developing the alloy more than<br />

10 years ago, when he was approached by<br />

his friend Kotin Ma – a geologist, gemstone<br />

collector, and New Zealand tourism operator –<br />

to create metallic beads from a meteorite.<br />

“He is a very spiritual person and I had<br />

made a lot of jewellery for him and his<br />

customers overseas, using a variety of<br />

different gemstones.<br />

"He asked me if I could make beads from<br />

a meteorite, and I said no, nobody could!<br />

Instead, I suggested we create a new precious<br />

metal that could be used for anything,”<br />

Gillbanks recalled.<br />

Ma – now Gillbanks' business partner – also<br />

wanted to develop a metal that wouldn't cause<br />

an allergic reaction, as his wife's wedding ring<br />

did while on their honeymoon.<br />

"That was the first and last time she wore her<br />

original ring!" Ma told <strong>Jeweller</strong>. "I wouldn't<br />

want any other couples to go through what we<br />

did that day. She could not wear any jewellery<br />

that wasn't platinum or high-carat gold – until<br />

we developed our metal."<br />

Gillbanks said it had taken six years to bring<br />

Starium up to industry standards.<br />

"It can do anything that every other metal on<br />

the market can do,” he told <strong>Jeweller</strong>, adding<br />

that friends and family – including Ma and his<br />

wife – have worn Starium jewellery for years.<br />

In 2010, a prototype of the metal was assessed<br />

by Professor Milo Kral from the University of<br />

Canterbury in Christchurch, New Zealand.<br />

However, while the metal was patented in both<br />

New Zealand and Australia, progress was<br />

halted by the devastating 2011 Christchurch<br />

Earthquake when samples were lost before<br />

they could be tested.<br />

Following a protracted rebuilding phase,<br />

Starium is "finally ready to go out to the market<br />

and everything is in place", with Gillbanks –<br />

now based in Queensland – partnering with an<br />

Australian factory to manufacture Starium at<br />

scale for the jewellery industry.

Buying group announces pre-Christmas 'expo'<br />

Nationwide <strong>Jeweller</strong>s, Australasia’s largest<br />

jewellery buying group, has announced<br />

its Pre-Christmas Expo virtual event will<br />

return for a second year to assist retailers in<br />

stocking up ahead of the holiday season.<br />

Colin Pocklington, managing director,<br />

Nationwide, praised the Expo format, saying,<br />

“Our 2020 Expo was a huge success with<br />

our participating suppliers achieving<br />

substantial orders. There was also great<br />

participation from members in the webinar<br />

program that we ran over the two-week Expo<br />

period,” he added.<br />

This year’s Expo will take place from<br />

Monday 25 <strong>October</strong> to Friday 5 November,<br />

with more than 70 of Nationwide’s preferred<br />

suppliers taking part.<br />

The virtual Expo platform features three<br />

supplier ‘pavilions’ – Australia, New Zealand<br />

and International – and each supplier ‘stand’<br />

comprises a video message, Expo special<br />

offer, and list of best-selling products.<br />

Members will be able to order from the<br />

‘stand’ or by contacting the supplier directly.<br />

Each Nationwide member will be allocated<br />

up to $60,000 in ‘Expo Dollars’ – depending<br />

on their Member Reward Scheme level – to<br />

pay over six months, interest-free.<br />

In order to provide flexibility to retailers in<br />

different states, Nationwide has“made our<br />

Expo Dollars available over an extended<br />

period from early <strong>October</strong> to mid-November,”<br />

Pocklington explained.<br />

In addition to special offers from suppliers,<br />

the Expo will also include a keynote address<br />

from Pocklington. daily online workshops<br />

focused on business management, and a<br />

specialist question-and-answer panel.<br />

Plus, a number of social events are set<br />

to take place, including a Melbourne<br />

Cup-themed virtual session on Tuesday 2<br />

November and a concluding Happy Hour on<br />

Friday 5 November, where Nationwide’s <strong>2021</strong><br />

Apprentice of the Year and <strong>2021</strong> Members<br />

and Suppliers of the Year for Australia and<br />

New Zealand will be announced.<br />

Hollywood star returns for natural<br />

diamond advertising campaign<br />

Chinese markets last year. David Kellie, CEO<br />

of the NDC, said, “Diamond jewellery sales<br />

have seen record-breaking growth as we<br />

emerge from the pandemic.<br />

"We're thrilled to have Ana de Armas back<br />

with us for another year to share the magic of<br />

natural diamonds with a global audience."<br />

The Natural Diamond Council has released its<br />

second campaign with actress Ana de Armas.<br />

Image credit: Natural Diamond Council<br />

The Natural Diamond Council (NDC) –<br />

formerly known as the Diamond Producers<br />

Association – has revealed its second<br />

large-scale advertising campaign starring<br />

actress Ana de Armas.<br />

De Armas, who is set to star in the upcoming<br />

James Bond film No Time To Die and is<br />

best-known for roles in Knives Out and<br />

Blade Runner 2049, was named the NDC’s<br />

international ‘face’ in 2020.<br />

Her previous campaign for the organisation<br />

was distributed across the US, UK, Indian and<br />

The new campaign, named ‘Love Life’,<br />

features De Armas wearing a custom-made<br />

11-piece diamond jewellery collection by<br />

jewellery designer Malyia McNaughton, who<br />

was part of the NDC’s Emerging Designers<br />

Diamond Initiative earlier this year.<br />

De Armas emphasises the “joy and hope”<br />

of the campaign, saying, “It was an amazing<br />

experience working with this incredible team<br />

and I couldn't be happier to be working again<br />

with the Natural Diamond Council.”<br />

Notably, McNaughton’s collection – which<br />

features current trends including “gender<br />

fluidity, heavy metal chains, and the<br />

marquise cut” – has been made available<br />

to international retailers to either stock or<br />

manufacture for the holiday season.

News<br />

In Brief<br />

International watch and<br />

jewellery sales slow<br />

4 Market analysis firm The Mercury<br />

Project has published its latest report into<br />

international watch and jewellery sales.<br />

Following a strong recovery in the first<br />

half of the year, the report notes "pent up<br />

demand" has "softened" with July showing<br />

a 23.9 per cent rise compared with 2020,<br />

versus 150.9 per cent in May. However, its<br />

overall sales index for the first seven months<br />

of the year is 8.8 per cent above 2019.<br />

E-commerce jewellery<br />

company goes public<br />

4 Brilliant Earth, which manufactures<br />

and retails personalised bridal<br />

jewellery, has successfully launched<br />

its initial public offering (IPO) on the<br />

NASDAQ in New York, with its share<br />

price rising by 43 per cent, from $US12<br />

to $US17.16, on its first day of trading.<br />

According to Forbes, Brilliant Earth's<br />

sales increased 25 per cent in 2020,<br />

reaching $US251.8 million.<br />

Ellendale Mine owner<br />

purchases yellow stones<br />

4 Burgundy Diamond Mines, which<br />

took control of Western Australia's<br />

Ellendale Mine in March, has announced<br />

the purchase of $US1 million in Fancy<br />

Vivid and Fancy Intense yellow diamonds<br />

from the Ekati Mine in Canada. The<br />

stones will be cut and polished at<br />

Burgundy's specialist facility in Perth,<br />

before being marketed as the company's<br />

"first branded diamond product".<br />

Omega gets royal<br />

seal of approval<br />

4Watch brand Omega, part of the<br />

Swatch Group, can count HRH Prince<br />

William among its fans. Observers noted<br />

the royal wearing an Omega Seamaster<br />

Diver to the premiere of the James<br />

Bond film No Time To Die – of which<br />

Omega is a sponsor, adorning the wrist<br />

of the iconic fictional spy. However, the<br />

prince's timepiece is in fact his everyday<br />

watch of choice, gifted to him by his late<br />

mother Princess Diana.<br />

Former Pandora executive accused of<br />

abandoning latest jewellery company<br />


Another member, who contacted <strong>Jeweller</strong>,<br />

said Nielsen “planted seeds of dreams in over<br />

76,000 people, he got them to spend money<br />

for higher commissions... Creating urgency to<br />

purchase at discounted rates, but it became<br />

clear when his sales never stopped and his<br />

‘newly’ named products arrived branded with<br />

Endless [Jewelry] and Amazing [Jewelry], that<br />

something was seriously not right.”<br />

One member told <strong>Jeweller</strong> she had joined<br />

the business just four weeks before it closed<br />

and like many others, was out-of-pocket for<br />

product inventory.<br />

Describing the unexpected closure of<br />

the business, the member said, “On 10<br />

September we were told JN had gone into<br />

administration.<br />

"When we tried to contact customer<br />

service and Jesper via Facebook for further<br />

information, all points of contact and Jesper’s<br />

social media accounts had been closed."<br />

“We have searched for a point of contact for<br />

Jesper but he has vanished off the face of the<br />

Earth,” she added.<br />

Nielsen was initially a European Pandora<br />

distributor and a member of its management<br />

team, before resigning as president of its<br />

Central Western Europe subsidiary in 2011.<br />

He was bound by a non-compete clause until<br />

1 June 2013, whereby he immediately founded<br />

Endless Jewelry.<br />

Despite experiencing a rapid expansion,<br />

Nielsen left Endless Jewelry in February<br />

2016; the company declared bankruptcy in<br />

November that year.<br />

In June 2016, Nielsen opened the first<br />

Amazing Jewelry store in Copenhagen. It<br />

operated on a franchise business model<br />

and reportedly reached a store count of 60.<br />

However, media reports in August 2018 stated<br />

that five German stores were closed amid<br />

insolvency proceedings.<br />

The last remaining store – the Copenhagen<br />

flagship – was closed by Nielsen in February<br />

<strong>2021</strong>, one month after Nielsen’s company<br />

Kasi Brands went into bankruptcy. According<br />

to Danish media, Nielsen was declared<br />

personally bankrupt on 17 November 2020<br />

and currently lives “for rent” in Majorca, Spain.<br />

Nielsen has also been embroiled in legal<br />

disputes with Pandora since leaving the<br />

company a decade ago.<br />

In 2017, Denmark’s Maritime and Commercial<br />

High Court ruled that Nielsen had unlawfully<br />

used the Pandora trademark to promote<br />

Amazing Jewelry.<br />

He had been warned against using the<br />

Pandora name before, with a Danish website<br />

covering trademark law reporting that<br />

Pandora had "found reason to voice their<br />

concern towards Mr Nielsen’s continuous<br />

use of Pandora again in the spring of<br />

2015, and in June 2016 Pandora obtained<br />

a default judgment.”<br />

“It became clear when his sales never<br />

stopped and his ‘newly’ named products<br />

arrived branded with Endless [Jewelry]<br />

and Amazing [Jewelry], that something<br />

was seriously not right”<br />


Three years after his departure from Pandora,<br />

Nielsen also self-published a book entitled<br />

Inside Pandora, and which was promoted as:<br />

“A simple and unconventional approach to<br />

business by one of the key players behind the<br />

billion-dollar global enterprise.”<br />

At the time of Nielsen’s resignation from the<br />

Pandora board, his company Kasi ApS – also<br />

known as Kasi Group – sold its shares in the<br />

business for an initial payment of DKK385<br />

million ($AU83.5 million) with a second<br />

payment promised based on future earnings.<br />

In 2015, Nielsen contended that Pandora<br />

had not honoured this second payment and<br />

insisted that he was owed DKK753 million<br />

($AU164 million) – later increased to more<br />

than DKK2 billion ($AU430 million).<br />

Pandora has consistently denied Nielsen’s<br />

claim. The case has since moved into<br />

arbitration; however, Kasi ApS was fined<br />

DKK5 million ($AU1.09 million) in 2020 due to<br />

Nielsen's breach of a confidentiality clause.<br />

According to a Finans.dk report, the fine was<br />

not paid, forcing Kasi ApS into bankruptcy.<br />

During more recent court proceedings,<br />

Nielsen is reported as saying: “It is expensive<br />

to be Jesper Nielsen, and I am good at<br />

making money."<br />

The future for his reported 76,000 JN<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong>y ‘ambassadors’ is unknown – as<br />

are any monies owed to them.<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong> has attempted to contact Jesper<br />

Nielsen. His personal website jespernielsen.<br />

com is non-functioning and various emails to<br />

the business have ‘bounced’.<br />

20 | <strong>October</strong> <strong>2021</strong>

Sky-high sales for fashion jewellery chain Lovisa amid COVID expansion<br />

Lovisa has announced positive financial results for<br />

FY21, following its acquisition of German jewellery and<br />

accessories retail firm Beeline Group.<br />

Fashion jewellery retailer Lovisa has announced<br />

a $42.7 million profit to 20 June <strong>2021</strong>, a 39.4 per<br />

cent increase compared to the previous year. Total<br />

sales reached $288 million – an increase of 18.9<br />

per cent over FY20 ($243 million).<br />

Despite the global pandemic, same-store sales<br />

increased by 8 per cent over FY20, while one of<br />

the largest growth sectors was the company’s<br />

e-commerce strategy, which delivered 178 per<br />

cent growth in FY21.<br />

Gross margin was up 77 per cent, while gross<br />

profit increased 18 per cent to $221 million.<br />

The fashion jewellery chain started in Australia<br />

more than a decade ago, however 72 per cent<br />

of its current 544-store network is now located<br />

outside<br />

of Australia. Lovisa is owned by the ASX-listed<br />

BB Retail Capital, founded by retail entrepreneur<br />

Brett Blundy.<br />

Lovisa’s store count dramatically increased in<br />

December last year when it acquired German<br />

retail firm Beeline Group, which operated 114<br />

fashion jewellery and accessories stores across<br />

Germany, Switzerland, the Netherlands, Belgium,<br />

Austria, Luxembourg, and France, under the<br />

brands Six and I Am.<br />

Along with 22 new stores, 87 of the 114 Six and<br />

I Am outlets were converted to Lovisa, with the<br />

“remainder exited at or around the time of the<br />

handover”, the company stated.<br />

As previously reported by <strong>Jeweller</strong>, the Beeline<br />

acquisition was for a nominal €70 ($AU113), with<br />

Lovisa taking over €3 million in bank guarantees<br />

associated with the leases on the Beeline Group<br />

stores. Lovisa is obliged to pay Beeline Group<br />

an additional €3 million from its existing credit<br />

facilities before 31 March 2022.<br />

Lovisa's US store count increased from 48 in<br />

FY20 to 63 by June <strong>2021</strong>. It has been reported<br />

that Lovisa received about $12 million in<br />

JobKeeper and other wage subsidies for stooddown<br />

staff while, at the same time, did not pay<br />

rent while stores were closed.<br />

Lovisa was listed on the ASX at $2 per share in<br />

December 2014 and at the time of publication was<br />

trading at $18.83.<br />

International trade show makes successful return in India<br />

Following the cancellation of its 2020 edition due<br />

to the COVID-19 pandemic, the India International<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong>y Show (IIJS) Premiere made a triumphant<br />

return last month.<br />

The show – held from 15–19 September in the<br />

city of Bengaluru – recorded approximately<br />

1,300 exhibitors and 21,000 visitors, including<br />

more than 300 international buyers, according<br />

to organiser the Gem & <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Export<br />

Promotion Council (GJEPC).<br />

Prior to the pandemic, IIJS Premiere would attract<br />

35,000–40,000 visitors, of which more than 1,000<br />

were international buyers.<br />

The GJEPC claims it is the first large-scale,<br />

international, and entirely physical jewellery<br />

trade show to be held since the pandemic began.<br />

Notably, the <strong>2021</strong> event was held outside Mumbai<br />

for the first time in the show’s history due to<br />

COVID-19 restrictions in the city.<br />

According to a GJEPC statement, the show<br />

generated “business worth $US6.75 billion”<br />

($AU9.4 billion).<br />

“The success of IIJS Premiere <strong>2021</strong> is a clear<br />

indication that the gem and jewellery industry<br />

has shrugged off the pandemic’s effects on the<br />

sector and the economy at large,” the statement<br />

continued.<br />

Colin Shah, chairman of the GJEPC, said, “We are<br />

delighted that IIJS Premiere has generated an<br />

estimated $US6.75 billion worth of business. We<br />

are already witnessing a surge in exports and are<br />

confident that the industry will achieve the export<br />

target of $US43.75 billion this year.”<br />

Shah also thanked the Karnataka State<br />

Government and the show’s venue, the Bangalore<br />

International Exhibition Centre, which was subject<br />

to rigorous safety regulations including an on-site<br />

COVID-19 testing centre, ambulance, quarantine<br />

room, and on-call doctor.<br />

Attendees were required to have at least one<br />

dose of a COVID-19 vaccine, as well as produce a<br />

negative test within 48 hours prior to attendance.<br />

The GJPEC statement noted international<br />

buyers from Bangladesh, the UK, USA, Thailand,<br />

Singapore, Australia, the United Arab Emirates,<br />

and Nepal had placed orders at the show.<br />

The India International <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Show (IIJS) Premiere<br />

<strong>2021</strong> was held in Bengaluru in September, attracting<br />

21,000 visitors. Image: Dignitaries launch the IIJS<br />

Premiere <strong>2021</strong><br />

<strong>October</strong> <strong>2021</strong> | 21

10 Years Ago<br />

Time Machine: <strong>October</strong> 2011<br />

A snapshot of the industry events making headlines this time 10 years ago in <strong>Jeweller</strong>.<br />

Historic Headlines<br />

4 Five more years for Expertise Events<br />

4 Michael Hill profits<br />

4 Big win for Queensland jewellers<br />

4 Georgini heads overseas<br />

4 Celebrity launches diamond collection<br />

Diamond investment fund<br />

Australian investors will have the chance to<br />

contribute to the Australian arm of a new $US250<br />

million diamond asset fund.<br />

The Diamond Asset Fund (DAF 1) is a joint<br />

venture between Canadian retailer Harry Winston<br />

Diamonds and Zürich-based advisor, Diamond<br />

Asset Advisors (DAA) and involves Harry Winston<br />

sourcing diamonds which will then be consigned<br />

to it by the fund; when sold, Harry Winston will pay<br />

the fund the prevailing market price as determined<br />

by its cost to replace the diamond.<br />

Formed in May this year, the partnership is<br />

raising funds from institutional investors. It will be<br />

managed locally by Melbourne-based investment<br />

advisor Bristow Shaw & Company, which aims to<br />

raise $30 million from "institutions" and "high networth<br />

parties".<br />

Young jewellers meet in Sydney<br />

The Young <strong>Jeweller</strong>s Group (YJG) met for the first<br />

time at the Sydney fair in August for cocktails and<br />

conversation.<br />

Hosted by <strong>Jeweller</strong> editor Coleby Nicholson, the<br />

function was attended by about 30 people including<br />

some senior members of the industry, who offered<br />

help and guidance.<br />

Nicholson, who instigated the meeting, said that<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong> magazine was essentially a conduit for<br />

encouraging the group to form ideas and network<br />

together, in order to enhance their future.<br />

NSW-based young jeweller Ewen Ryley has been<br />

managing the group's Facebook page and urged<br />

fellow young jewellers to get on board. Young<br />

jewellers from New Zealand have also joined the<br />

YJG, including Naeem Alhaseny from Marqueez<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong>y, who said she was eager to network with<br />

other jewellers.<br />

<strong>October</strong> 2011<br />

ON THE COVER Storch & Co.<br />

Editor’s Desk<br />

4Look In The Mirror First:“While<br />

I sympathise with jewellers' concerns<br />

about how the industry has changed,<br />

longing for the 'good ol' days' won't<br />

change a thing.<br />

"Ridiculing successful brands for their<br />

popularity with consumers or agitating<br />

for government protection of traditional<br />

business models is misguided to say the<br />

least. If your business is struggling, the<br />

first place to look is in the mirror, rather<br />

than across the road!"<br />

Soapbox<br />

4The Importance of Trade Fairs<br />

“The core reason for trade fairs is<br />

obvious; for buyers to meet with<br />

existing, and new, sellers. But what<br />

is often overlooked is that fairs also<br />

provide a way for those in the industry<br />

to network and help each other.<br />

"Many people seem to think a<br />

successful fair is just about getting<br />

numbers through the door – I<br />

disagree. It's the quality of the<br />

audience that's important, not<br />

the quantity."<br />

– Gary Fitz-Roy, managing director,<br />

Expertise Events<br />


Child's Play:<br />

No longer content to be told what to wear<br />

by mum or dad, these chic kids often<br />

dictate what purchases are to be made.<br />

Influenced by peers, celebrities, and a<br />

greater exposure to what's available via<br />

the internet and social media, these kids<br />

know what they want and once they<br />

arexposed to a product, hopefully remain<br />

loyal in the long-term.<br />

Ayres acquires competitor<br />

Melbourne-based company Kenneth Ayres<br />

has acquired its competitor, Davies Ferguson,<br />

which will cease operations on 31 August 2011<br />

after 30 years in business.<br />

Kenneth Ayres has acquired the business<br />

assets in the form of stock, plant and<br />

equipment, but not the 'Davies Ferguson'<br />

trading name. Paul Chaston, Ayres national<br />

sales manager, said: "We knew they wanted<br />

to move on. Our relationship has always been<br />

respectful, despite being competitors, and it<br />

has been an amicable transition."<br />

Chaston believes the combination of both Ayres<br />

and Davies Ferguson gives customers a greater<br />

level of choice.<br />

US jewellery sales expert<br />

in Australia<br />

US based sales expert Shane Decker was in<br />

Australia recently to head a series of seminars<br />

on jewellery retailing.<br />

Visiting for the first time, Decker inspired<br />

audiences with his charistmatic speech and<br />

proactive approach to retailing.<br />

The first seminar, entitled, 'Anatomy of a<br />

diamond sale', saw Decker deliver practical<br />

tools encompassing everything from the<br />

importance of showing diamonds on a<br />

daily basis to the consistency of excellent<br />

customer service.<br />

Decker also conducted one-hour seminars on<br />

customer loyalty and customer service, noting<br />

Australian retailers "lack accountability".<br />



22 | <strong>October</strong> <strong>2021</strong>



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INSIDE<br />

Now & Then<br />

JM Leech <strong>Jeweller</strong>s<br />

Celebrating 93 Years • BENDIGO, CASTLEMAINE, ECHUCA, AND MARYBOROUGH, VIC • A moment with Adam Tuohy, director<br />


L to R: Jessie Leech's sister Connie with Johnstone Melmore Leech outside the original JM Leech <strong>Jeweller</strong>s<br />

Bendigo store, circa 1932; an historic newspaper advertisement for the business<br />

JM Leech <strong>Jeweller</strong>s was founded by my<br />

grandfather and grandmother more than<br />

90 years ago and today, is the oldest<br />

jewellery store in Bendigo.<br />

My grandmother, Jessie, used to work for<br />

a department store and my grandfather<br />

Johnstone Melmore Leech fancied her, so he<br />

had his brother take a note to her and ask if<br />

she would come and work for him instead!<br />

They ended up getting together and started<br />

JM Leech <strong>Jeweller</strong>s in 1928.<br />

In 1930, when the business was only two<br />

years old, the Great Depression really began<br />

to hit Australia; then, a few years later,<br />

Johnstone went off to World War II.<br />

There have been so many obstacles over the<br />

years; there were times when they couldn't<br />

get stock – if you wanted an engagement<br />

ring in the 1930s, you had a choice of two!<br />

From wars to depressions and recessions, I<br />

take my hat off to them. I know we are going<br />

through tough times now, but I think if we<br />

were to take our minds back to what the<br />

previous generations went through, we'd<br />

have a bit more appreciation for how tough<br />

times really were back then!<br />

My grandparents had personal struggles<br />

too; their daughter was born in 1937 and<br />

tragically died when she was two.<br />

They had my mother, Faith, in 1941 and<br />

were told she would be in a wheelchair by<br />

the time she was 30 as she had a double<br />

curvature of the spine.<br />

To help with her condition, they got her into<br />

swimming when she was five; by the time<br />

she was 12 years old, she was the fastest<br />

female swimmer for her age on the planet.<br />

She ended up going to the Olympics,<br />

winning a gold medal and bronze medal<br />

in 1956 as one of the Golden Girls alongside<br />

Dawn Fraser. She also worked in the<br />

family business until the mid ’90s, when<br />

she retired.<br />

My grandfather and grandmother were very<br />

determined – they built up an extremely good<br />

business over the years. We struggled a bit in<br />

the ’70s and early ’80s, but since then we've<br />

gone from strength to strength.<br />

I purchased half the business from my<br />

grandmother and the other half from my<br />

mother in the 1990s; it wasn't handed to me,<br />

I wanted to buy it. That's how it worked.<br />

When my grandparents started the business,<br />

jewellery stores were different than they are<br />

today; they were a bit of a 'jack of all trades'.<br />

Alongside jewellery and watches, we stocked<br />

Royal Doulton, Royal Albert, Limoges<br />

porcelain, Belleek pottery, Delft Blue<br />

giftware, stainless steel cookware, cutlery<br />

sets, pens, paintings – you name it!<br />

We phased out giftware from the early ’90s<br />

and over a period of 15 years, became purely<br />

a jewellery and timepieces store, which we<br />

remain to this day.<br />

My wife Anna joined the business in 2001 and<br />

this proved a game-changer for our growth.<br />

She has strengths I don’t, and vice versa.<br />

Anna has a business background and her<br />

eye for market trends and selecting fastselling<br />

stock is something to be seen!<br />

Anna’s involvement has allowed me to<br />

work ‘on the business’ rather than ‘in it’<br />

which is a primary reason for our expansion<br />

to date.<br />

1928<br />

Johnstone Melmore<br />

Leech and wife Jessie<br />

establish JM Leech<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong>s in Bendigo<br />

1930<br />

The Great Depression<br />

begins, severely limiting<br />

JM Leech <strong>Jeweller</strong>s’ stock<br />

1941<br />

Johnstone and Jessie<br />

welcome their second<br />

daughter, Faith, after<br />

losing their first-born<br />

1942<br />

Johnstone serves in<br />

World War II; Jessie<br />

continues to run the store<br />

while he is away<br />

1956<br />

Faith Leech wins gold<br />

and bronze medals at<br />

the Melbourne Olympics,<br />

then joins the family<br />

business<br />

1973<br />

A major renovation of the<br />

store is completed<br />

1986<br />

Faith’s son Adam Tuohy<br />

begins working in the<br />

business and starts<br />

phasing out giftware<br />

to focus solely on fine<br />

jewellery and timepieces<br />

1993-1999<br />

Adam purchases the<br />

business from Jessie<br />

and Faith<br />

1998<br />

The store is completely<br />

demolished and rebuilt,<br />

using the original<br />

leadlight but with an<br />

award-winning, modern,<br />

shopper-friendly design<br />

2001<br />

Adam marries Anna, who<br />

also joins the business<br />

2005<br />

A second location opens<br />

in Castlemaine, followed<br />

three years later by a<br />

third store in Echuca<br />

2012<br />

The original Bendigo<br />

location is given a fresh<br />

new look<br />

2016<br />

The fourth store opens<br />

in Maryborough<br />

Above: Adam and Anna Tuohy outside the<br />

Bendigo store in 2018<br />

When you boil it all down, if you look<br />

after the customer the rest takes care of<br />

itself. If you're honest and do what you<br />

say you're going to do, you earn repeat<br />

business and referrals.<br />

We're in an industry where the lifetime<br />

value of a customer is massive; they<br />

start with kids' jewellery and the first<br />

watch, right through to engagement,<br />

wedding, anniversaries, milestone<br />

birthdays – the works.<br />

We have customers whose great-greatgrandmothers<br />

got their engagement<br />

rings from my grandfather. Having said<br />

that, of course, you're only as good as your<br />

last game!<br />

Our second store opened in 2005, and we<br />

now have four locations; we always say<br />

we're not going to have any more, but<br />

opportunities come up and we end up<br />

opening another!<br />

We are very proud – extremely proud – of<br />

our history. We are the oldest jewellers in<br />

Bendigo and that's something no-one can<br />

take away from us. We're the ‘last man<br />

standing’, and we've been in our position<br />

in Hargreaves Street – now Hargreaves<br />

Mall – since 1928 and no-one else is even<br />

close to that.<br />

Our kids may or may not want to be<br />

involved with the business. If they do,<br />

that's awesome and if they don't, t<br />

hat's fine too. But I jealously guard<br />

our heritage, so it is something that<br />

I want to keep going.<br />

Read the full length interview<br />

on <strong>Jeweller</strong>magazine.com<br />

24 | <strong>October</strong> <strong>2021</strong>

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INSIDE<br />

My Store<br />

Harriet Kelsall Bespoke <strong>Jeweller</strong>y<br />

HERTFORDSHIRE, UK with Harriet Kelsall, owner and founder • SPACE COMPLETED 2004<br />

4Who is the target market and how did they<br />

influence the store design?<br />

We pride ourselves on designing for the individual,<br />

making narrowing down a ‘target market’ a little<br />

tricky. As bespoke design specialists, our team have<br />

the privilege of capturing unique personal stories,<br />

with many one-off designs reflecting the diversity of<br />

the people who commission them.<br />

The possibilities are truly endless and this concept<br />

flows through our store design. When you arrive<br />

at the studio, you will see our displays using real<br />

customer imagery – showcasing the unique and<br />

beautiful jewellery designs.<br />

The designers’ desks hold sketchbooks, pencils<br />

and drawing boards on which we proudly display<br />

our customers’ thank-you cards, and we encourage<br />

discussion, through our displays and cabinets,<br />

on everything from computer-aided design to<br />

responsibly sourced gemstones to Fairtrade gold.<br />

4With the relationship between store<br />

ambience and consumer purchasing in mind,<br />

which features in the store encourage sales?<br />

We don’t employ salespeople; the studio is staffed<br />

by our designers who offer knowledge, experience,<br />

and a passion for individual design rather than a<br />

‘hard sell’ and our customers value the relaxed<br />

atmosphere that we have cultivated over the years.<br />

As an open, honest, and transparent business, we<br />

frequently hold meetings in our glass meeting room<br />

which sits on our shopfloor.<br />

Our jewellery is also made by our team of<br />

goldsmiths in their fully equipped workshop, just<br />

downstairs from the design studio. We call it ‘the<br />

goldsmith’s bowl’ because of its glass sides for our<br />

customers to see them all hard at work!<br />

4What is the store design’s ‘wow factor’?<br />

Our <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Centre in Hall's Green is an<br />

award-winning Tudor barn conversion set in rural<br />

Hertfordshire. At 3,500 sq ft, it’s an impressive<br />

space that houses our design studio, workshop and<br />

ready-to-wear collections!<br />

The incredible space works as the main hub for our<br />

two other ‘High Street’ design studios which can be<br />

found in Cambridge and Primrose Hill in London.<br />

26 | <strong>October</strong> <strong>2021</strong>

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Completing my Diploma in<br />

Gemmology has benefited<br />

me as a jeweller in more<br />

ways than I ever expected.<br />

I have always had an interest<br />

in gemstones and found<br />

the course was not only<br />

informative and challenging<br />

but immensely rewarding.<br />

Studying with the GAA has also<br />

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people from many facets of the<br />

jewellery industry and grants me access<br />

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throughout my professional career.<br />

Emma Meakes FGAA<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong>, John Miller Design - WA<br />

Diploma in<br />

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Enrolments now open<br />

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1300 436 338<br />

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Be<br />

Brilliant<br />

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Passionately educating the industry, gem enthusiasts<br />

and consumers about gemstones

REVIEW<br />

Gems<br />

Unusual Opals Part II: Boulder & Matrix Opal<br />

L to R: Linneys earrings; Opal Minded<br />

necklace; Cartier bracelet Below:<br />

Cartier ring; Katherine Jetter ring<br />

Australia – the home of opal – is well known<br />

the world over for black and white opal<br />

specimens; however, boulder and matrix<br />

opals are a huge part of the Australian opal<br />

industry and only increasing in popularity.<br />

So, what’s the difference between them?<br />

The classification of natural opal depends<br />

on the relationship between the opal itself<br />

and the host rock in which it forms.<br />

The more well-known black and white<br />

opals are termed ‘natural type 1’<br />

and feature solely the opal itself, of a<br />

reasonably homogenous composition.<br />

In contrast, boulder opal is ‘natural type<br />

2’, a single piece of opal that remains<br />

naturally attached to its host rock.<br />

Matrix opal, on the other hand, is ‘natural<br />

type 3’, in which opal snakes through<br />

pores and grains and/or fills holes within<br />

the host rock – think 'in' rock, as opposed<br />

to boulder opal being 'on' rock.<br />

Generally, natural type 1 opal is the most<br />

valuable, followed by natural type 2, then<br />

natural type 3.<br />

Boulder and matrix opal are both a type<br />

of sedimentary opal.<br />

The host rock depends on where it<br />

comes from – sandstone or ironstone<br />

for Queensland opal specimens, and<br />

quartzite, sandstone, or claystone for<br />

those from Andamooka, South Australia.<br />

The formation of opal is a complex<br />

curiosity, highly debated among geologists<br />

and scientists.<br />

There have been many hypotheses<br />

produced over the years, with most<br />

controversy and debate happening in<br />

more recent times.<br />

What is agreed is the necessity of certain<br />

factors for the formation of opal – a source<br />

of silica, availability of water, the right<br />

chemical and geological conditions, and<br />

adequate time.<br />

Most of the major opal-producing fields<br />

across Australia have a similar geological<br />

setting, consisting of a thick layer of<br />

sandstone atop a layer of clay.<br />

The most generally accepted hypothesis<br />

of opal formation is known as the ‘deep<br />

weathering theory’, in which water<br />

flows through the top sandstone layer,<br />

picking up silica and continuing down<br />

through cracks and crevices to the<br />

bottom clay layer.<br />

There, the now silica-rich solution is<br />

deposited, forming opal.<br />

The well-known ‘Yowah nut’ opals from<br />

Queensland are believed to form in this<br />

way. Yowah nuts are small boulder opals<br />

that resemble tree nuts, with a precious<br />

or common opal centre surrounded by an<br />

outer layer of ironstone.<br />

All Queensland boulder opal and matrix<br />

opal from Andamooka formed during<br />

the Cretaceous period, 60–144 million<br />

years ago.<br />

Andamooka matrix opal is known for being<br />

treated to appear darker through a simple<br />

process involving infusing the opal with a<br />

Boulder &<br />

Matrix Opal<br />

Named for the way the<br />

opal forms and enjoins<br />

the host rock<br />

Colour: Multiple<br />

Found in: Australia,<br />

Honduras, Mexico<br />

Mohs Hardness: 5–6.5<br />

Class: Silicate<br />

Lustre: Subvitreous<br />

Formula: SiO 2<br />

.nH 2<br />

O<br />

sugar-rich solution, followed by boiling in<br />

concentrated sulphuric acid.<br />

This results in carbonised sugar<br />

throughout the matrix which turns the<br />

specimen black and brilliantly highlights<br />

play-of-colour, imitating black opal.<br />

Other methods of producing a similar<br />

result have also been reported.<br />

An interesting opal triplet imitating natural<br />

boulder opal has also been noted. Triplets<br />

are a type of composite opal involving a<br />

thin piece of natural opal between a dark<br />

backing and domed quartz or glass.<br />

In this instance, a piece of crystal opal sits<br />

atop a black layer, followed by an unevenly<br />

joined piece of what is believed to be a<br />

resin and ground boulder matrix mix.<br />

The fourth and final layer is a solid<br />

piece of natural boulder matrix, with<br />

veins of precious opal. According to the<br />

manufacturer, these imitants are made in<br />

Hong Kong using Coober Pedy crystal opal<br />

and Queensland boulder opal.<br />

Mikaelah Egan FGAA Dip DT<br />

began her career in the industry at<br />

Diamonds of Distinction in 2015. She now<br />

balances her role as a gemmologist at<br />

Vault Valuations in Brisbane with studying<br />

geology at the University of Queensland.<br />

Visit instagram.com/mikaelah.egan<br />

For more information on gems and<br />

gemmology ,go to www.gem.org.au<br />

<strong>October</strong> <strong>2021</strong> | 29


Lab-Created Diamonds<br />



ALL THAT<br />


The past three years have seen the lab-created<br />

diamond category expand and develop, though<br />

not all have embraced it – yet, writes<br />



IN-DEPTH FEATURE | Lab-Created Diamonds<br />


Lab-Grown<br />

Diamond Trends<br />

T<br />

hree years on from the ‘watershed’ year of<br />

2018, when natural diamond juggernaut<br />

De Beers introduced Lightbox Jewelry,<br />

the lab-created diamond category has gone from<br />

strength to strength.<br />

Kimai<br />

“Over the past few years, lab-grown diamonds have<br />

monumentally changed the diamond jewellery landscape,<br />

forever,” says Craig Miller, a second generation diamantaire<br />

and CEO of JC Jewels – one of the first diamond suppliers in<br />

Australia to embrace the lab-created category.<br />

“From the consumer's point of view, De Beers entering the<br />

lab-grown space accelerated acceptance, engagement, and<br />

validation. From there, consumer demand and engagement<br />

pushed retailers to engage, and now we watch as lab-grown<br />

diamonds become mainstream,” Miller observes.<br />

Miriam Neubauer, director Grown Diamonds, confirms<br />

that consumer awareness of lab-created diamonds has<br />

significantly improved.<br />

“Two years ago, consumers did not know the difference<br />

between diamond simulants, such as cubic zirconia, and<br />

lab-grown diamonds; however, today they are a lot more<br />

educated and researched and understand that they are<br />

optically, physically and chemically identical – with the only<br />

difference being their origin,” she tells <strong>Jeweller</strong>.<br />

This is reflected not only in Australia, but globally. Phil<br />

Edwards, managing director of Duraflex Group Australia,<br />

which distributes the Swarovski Created Diamonds range,<br />

says, “The fact that a global brand such as Swarovski has<br />

launched their own Created Diamonds collection speaks<br />

highly to the significance and importance of this category.<br />

“We strongly feel that consumer demand for more<br />

affordable and sustainable product, without compromising<br />

on actual diamond quality, is a market trend that will<br />

continue to grow and will have a positive impact on the<br />

trajectory of this category.”<br />

Meanwhile, Catherine Martin, head of communications at<br />

US-headquartered Diamond Foundry, notes “a massive<br />

increase in consumer interest and demand for lab-grown<br />

diamonds; virtually overnight people have come to accept<br />

this new category of product.”<br />

$5.2bn<br />

estimated value<br />

of the lab-created<br />

diamond jewellery<br />

market, in US<br />

Dollars, by 2023<br />

Paul Zimnisky analysis<br />

50–60%<br />

proportion of the<br />

world's lab-created<br />

diamonds that are<br />

manufactured in<br />

China<br />

Bain & Co.<br />

80%<br />

of consumers<br />

are aware of labcreated<br />

diamonds,<br />

compared with<br />

less than 10 per<br />

cent in 2012<br />

The MVEye<br />

6–7m<br />

carats of labcreated<br />

diamonds<br />

produced in 2020<br />

Bain & Co.<br />

$1,500<br />

retail price<br />

per carat, in<br />

US Dollars,<br />

for Lightbox<br />

Jewelry's new<br />

Finest range<br />

Anabela Chan<br />

Indeed, a study conducted by marketing firm The MVEye –<br />

formerly MVI Marketing – in 2020 found that 80 per cent of<br />

consumers surveyed were aware of lab-made diamonds,<br />

compared with less than 10 per cent in 2012.<br />

Martin observes that new demand is coming from previously<br />

untouched categories, such as the high-end watch market;<br />

meanwhile, major vertically-integrated retailers such as<br />

Pandora have launched dedicated lab-created collections to<br />

capitalise on consumers' desire for the product.<br />

Meanwhile, lab-created diamond production reached<br />

between 6–7 million carats last year, according to The<br />

Global Diamond Industry 2020–21: Brilliant Under Pressure,<br />

a report authored by business strategy and research<br />

consultancy Bain & Co.<br />

Lab-created diamond production<br />

reached between 6–7 million<br />

carats last year... That figure is still<br />

dwarfed by the natural diamond<br />

category; Bain & Co. estimated 111<br />

million carats of natural diamonds<br />

were produced in 2020"<br />

That figure is still dwarfed by the natural diamond<br />

category; Bain & Co. estimated 111 million carats of<br />

natural diamonds were produced in 2020, largely as a<br />

result of the COVID-19 pandemic; between 2010–2018,<br />

global production averaged approximately 130 million<br />

carats, with a peak of 152 million in 2017.<br />

However, production capacity continues to rise, with the<br />

Brilliant Under Pressure report noting a “double-digit”<br />

increase in 2020 compared with 2019, and a 15-20 per cent<br />

increase between 2018 and 2019.<br />

This growth is largely driven by expanded production in China,<br />

where the majority – approximately 50 to 60 per cent – of the<br />

world’s lab-created diamonds are manufactured, using the<br />

high-pressure, high-temperature (HPHT) method; however,<br />

the US and India are “emerging as major production centres”<br />

using chemical vapour deposition (CVD) techniques.<br />

<strong>October</strong> <strong>2021</strong> | 31

Lab-Created Diamonds | IN-DEPTH FEATURE<br />

Diamond Foundry<br />

Kimai<br />

Diamond Foundry, which uses a proprietary CVD<br />

mechanism in order to produce its lab-created diamonds,<br />

recently announced plans for a new €740 million solarpowered<br />

production facility in Spain.<br />

The factory will have an estimated capacity of 10 million<br />

carats, a proportion of which will be used for jewellery.<br />

Diamond Foundry is also planning an expansion of its<br />

hydro-powered US factory, while its jewellery retailer, Vrai,<br />

has recently opened stores in Shanghai and Los Angeles,<br />

with “more to come,” says Martin.<br />

Meanwhile, Element Six – De Beers’ lab-created diamond<br />

manufacturing division, which supplies Lightbox Jewelry<br />

– opened a $US94 million new factory in the US state of<br />

Oregon in <strong>October</strong> 2020.<br />

While consumer awareness<br />

and demand for lab-created<br />

diamonds has come a long way<br />

in recent years, many believe<br />

the most pressing challenge is<br />

still education"<br />

The new facility will support Lightbox’s recent introduction<br />

of white, pink and blue lab-created diamonds up to<br />

including 2 carat sizes, and the Finest range of VVS D–F<br />

Excellent cut lab-created diamonds, priced at $US1,500<br />

per carat – which it noted was “well below” current prices.<br />

The Finest product line is the result of a new proprietary<br />

engineering process developed by Element Six, combining<br />

existing CVD technology with a further refinement process<br />

that enhances colour in stones.<br />

Speaking to <strong>Jeweller</strong>, Steve Coe, CEO Lightbox Jewelry,<br />

said, “For now, our focus is on growing and expanding<br />

the Lightbox business. Our new state-of-the-art<br />

manufacturing facility in Portland, Oregon came on<br />

line at the end of last year and gives us the capacity to<br />

dramatically scale up our distribution to consumers in the<br />

coming months.<br />

Phil Edwards<br />

Duraflex Group Australia<br />

"We strongly feel that consumer<br />

demand for more affordable and<br />

sustainable product, without<br />

compromising on actual diamond<br />

quality, is a market trend that<br />

will continue to grow and will<br />

have a positive impact on the<br />

trajectory of this category."<br />

Craig Miller<br />

JC Jewels<br />

"From the consumer's point<br />

of view, De Beers entering the<br />

lab-grown space accelerated<br />

acceptance, engagement,<br />

and validation. From there,<br />

consumer demand and<br />

engagement pushed retailers to<br />

engage, and now we watch as<br />

lab-grown diamonds become<br />

mainstream."<br />

Catherine Martin<br />

Diamond Foundry<br />

"[There has been] a massive<br />

increase in consumer interest<br />

and demand for lab-grown<br />

diamonds; virtually overnight<br />

people have come to accept<br />

this new category of product."<br />

“This includes both growing our own e-commerce<br />

platform lightboxjewelry.com and also substantially<br />

expanding the list of retail partners that we supply. You<br />

can expect to see a lot more of Lightbox in the months and<br />

years ahead.”<br />

He added, “We have seen a noticeable trend toward larger<br />

sizes and higher qualities and we are leading the way here.”<br />

Yet while the lab-created category appears to be on a<br />

positive trajectory, challenges persist.<br />

Knowledge and numbers<br />

While consumer awareness and demand for lab-created<br />

diamonds has come a long way in recent years, many<br />

believe the most pressing challenge is still education,<br />

with several contributors observing that the market is<br />

rife with “misinformation”.<br />

“We find many consumers remain relatively unaware of<br />

what a lab-grown diamond is and there is clearly still<br />

a requirement to provide education and information to<br />

consumers,” says Coe.<br />

“While it is the same material with the same optical and<br />

physical properties as a natural diamond, the great value<br />

proposition for Lightbox lab-grown diamonds is that they<br />

offer consumers exceptional quality at a very accessible<br />

price point, allowing the consumer to make informed<br />

purchase decisions.”<br />

Miller shares similar insights, pointing to a definite “lack<br />

of consumer education”.<br />

“If you search lab-grown diamonds on Google – which is<br />

where the customer journey begins for many – there is<br />

limited information and education online, and much of<br />

what is found can be misleading, partially derived from a<br />

disconnect with the mined sector and the lab-grown side,”<br />

he explains.<br />

According to a <strong>2021</strong> survey of more than 1,000 consumers<br />

aged 25–60, conducted by US jewellery industry<br />

organisation The Plumb Club, 79 per cent of consumers<br />

said that they were aware of lab-grown diamonds and<br />

their use in fine jewellery – yet 41 per cent did not know<br />

how they differed from natural stones.<br />

32 | <strong>October</strong> <strong>2021</strong>

IN-DEPTH FEATURE | Lab-Created Diamonds<br />



Globally, lab-created diamonds account for<br />

approximately 3 per cent of diamond sales, with<br />

the US the largest retail market.<br />

“The US had a head start over Australia and Europe<br />

with the selling of lab-grown diamonds,” says<br />

Miriam Neubauer, director of Grown Diamonds.<br />

“They were the pioneers to push the sales into<br />

the general public and get the ‘word out’ there.<br />

Australia followed suit about two years later and<br />

we have noticed a dramatic increase in sales<br />

over the past two years,” she explains.<br />

Notably, the Michael Hill jewellery chain began<br />

trialling lab-created diamonds at a Queensland<br />

store in late 2019, and introduced a range of<br />

lab-created diamond engagement rings – with<br />

stones manufactured by Fenix Diamonds – later<br />

that year. Its current lab-created offering also<br />

includes earrings.<br />

Lightbox Jewelry currently ships to Australia<br />

via its ecommerce website, as does Diamond<br />

Foundry’s Vrai.<br />

Craig Miller, CEO of JC Jewels – one of the<br />

first suppliers in Australia to embrace the<br />

lab-grown category – says the local market<br />

has great potential.<br />

Globally, lab-created<br />

diamonds account for<br />

approximately 3 per cent of<br />

diamond sales, with the US<br />

the largest retail market"<br />

“Australia is following the US, but six to 12<br />

months behind. Consumers are engaging and<br />

welcoming this new choice, and we are seeing<br />

growing demand, but it is still early days.”<br />

Edwards believes Australia has been slower than<br />

the US and Europe to “accept and embrace the<br />

lab-grown product”, with the market still smaller<br />

on a “pro-rata percentage”.<br />

However, he predicts “strong growth of this<br />

category” as lab-created diamonds become<br />

more widely available and accepted –<br />

”Particularly given consumer demand is now<br />

directly driving the category and supply of more<br />

sustainable and affordable products with equal<br />

quality,” he adds.<br />

Adds Miller, “Lab-grown is here to stay; in the<br />

future I see most Australian retailers offering<br />

lab-grown and mined diamonds side by side.<br />

It will reach the point when retailers’ inventory<br />

management, ranging, marketing strategy, staff<br />

training, and staff delivery will incorporate labgrown<br />

diamonds with importance and respect<br />

equal to mined diamonds.”<br />

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Lab-Created Diamonds | IN-DEPTH FEATURE<br />

Moi Moi Fine <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Kimai JC Jewels<br />

This indicates further resources should be allocated toward<br />

educating consumers.<br />

Miller also believes retailers are “lacking much-needed<br />

education within the Australian and New Zealand market,<br />

where lab-grown diamonds are fast growing in popularity.”<br />

Neubauer says some jewellers remain “not open-minded”<br />

and “refuse to sell lab-grown diamonds to their consumers”.<br />

Others across the industry have noted misconceptions about<br />

the differences between HPHT and CVD, and the types of<br />

post-growth treatments applied to the stones.<br />

Edwards says the “ongoing education process is absolutely<br />

key, in addition to increasing the availability of the product<br />

across Australia.”<br />

Despite the decline in both<br />

production costs and retail prices,<br />

wholesale prices of lab-created<br />

diamonds remained stable<br />

throughout 2020, resulting in a<br />

contraction in the margins of traders<br />

and jewellery manufacturers"<br />

“Historically, the main challenge was regarding the<br />

misconception or rather limited awareness of the quality<br />

of lab-grown diamonds and not enough price differential to<br />

natural diamonds,” he explains.<br />

“However, there’s currently a definite shift as consumers are<br />

becoming more educated about the lab-creation process and<br />

the identical properties of diamonds and lab-grown diamonds,<br />

whilst the price has reduced and now plateaued."<br />

Notably, price has been a sticking point for the lab-created<br />

diamond category since its inception.<br />

Speaking to US jewellery industry publication JCK Online<br />

recently, diamond industry analyst Edahn Golan commented,<br />

“We see continued demand and a continued decrease in<br />

prices. What we’re seeing is the sort of “ills” we’re suffering<br />

from in the natural diamond industry.<br />

Alexander Lacik<br />

Pandora<br />

"[Lab-grown diamonds]<br />

are as much a symbol of<br />

innovation and progress<br />

as they are of enduring<br />

beauty and stand as<br />

a testament to our<br />

ongoing and ambitious<br />

sustainability agenda."<br />

Miriam Neubauer<br />

Grown Diamonds<br />

"People were afraid that<br />

lab-grown diamond sales<br />

would overtake natural<br />

diamond sales. However,<br />

it has become more clear<br />

that both natural and<br />

lab-grown diamonds can<br />

be marketed side-byside,<br />

targeting different<br />

demographics."<br />

Brett Bolton<br />

Biron Laboratory Grown<br />

Diamonds<br />

"When selling these stones,<br />

retailers have to focus on the<br />

benefit of the price and the<br />

fact that they will not scratch<br />

or change colour over time –<br />

not that they are ‘a cheaper<br />

diamond.'"<br />

"A lot of goods are supplied on memo, there’s stiff competition<br />

between wholesalers, and, in addition to that, we’re seeing the<br />

elements that are typical of a technologically driven item:<br />

For example, the cost of production is going down.”<br />

According to Bain & Co.’s analysis, the retail price of a<br />

1-carat, G colour, VS-clarity lab-created diamond fell to<br />

only 35 per cent of an equivalent mined diamond in 2020; in<br />

2019 and 2018 this figure was 50 per cent, and in 2017 it was<br />

65 per cent.<br />

Other types of diamond boasted even greater disparities,<br />

with the price-difference between equivalent lab-created and<br />

natural fancy colour diamonds as great as 1,000 per cent.<br />

And despite the decline in both production costs and retail<br />

prices, wholesale prices of lab-created diamonds remained<br />

stable throughout 2020, resulting in a contraction in the<br />

margins of traders and jewellery manufacturers.<br />

The affordability of lab-created<br />

diamonds has made them accessible<br />

to new consumers – a trend most<br />

evident in the fancy colour diamond<br />

space, where extremely rare and<br />

precious pinks and blues are<br />

beyond the financial means<br />

of most consumers"<br />

Still, diamond industry analyst Paul Zimnisky wrote in 2020,<br />

"When analysing the wholesale and retail prices of unbranded<br />

man-made and natural diamonds, it appears that the retail<br />

gross margin of man-made diamonds in popular carat-sizes<br />

is as much as 1.8 times that of natural diamonds."<br />

Golan told JCK Online, “[Retailers are] doing everything to<br />

protect their margin.<br />

“So, if producers raise prices on a certain item, then they’ll<br />

raise prices to consumers. On the other hand, if wholesalers<br />

are reducing prices, then retailers are more flexible on<br />

pricing, too. So consumers are enjoying it.”<br />

34 | <strong>October</strong> <strong>2021</strong>

Inset: Diamond Foundry<br />

L to R: Anabela Chan; Pandora<br />

Brett Bolton, director Biron Laboratory Grown Diamonds,<br />

explains, “The price falling is great for the fashion side of the<br />

market, but concerning for some if using them<br />

for engagement rings or as a 2-carat option to a<br />

natural diamond.”<br />

However, lower prices are not necessarily a negative, with<br />

numerous advantages and sales strategies that retailers<br />

can employ.<br />

Bolton says, “When selling these stones, retailers have to<br />

focus on the benefit of the price and the fact that they will<br />

not scratch or change colour over time – not that they are<br />

‘a cheaper diamond’.”<br />

Bolton notes that price pressures have also sparked<br />

innovation in the lab-created category, leading to “more<br />

experimental colours, shapes and also growth techniques”.<br />

Says Diamond Foundry’s Martin, “We are in constant<br />

pursuit of creating a better diamond – ever larger and<br />

ever higher quality. We have not yet cracked the D colour<br />

level for larger diamonds; it is still incredibly hard to<br />

achieve the highest quality levels of diamond using the<br />

most advanced technology.”<br />

New horizons, new opportunities<br />

The affordability of lab-created diamonds has made them<br />

accessible to new consumers – a trend most evident in<br />

the fancy colour diamond space where extremely rare and<br />

precious pinks and blues are beyond the financial means of<br />

most consumers.<br />

“We believe there is a great opportunity in coloured lab-grown<br />

diamonds and offer our stones in beautiful pink and blue<br />

hues,” says Coe.<br />

“Coloured natural diamonds are hugely expensive and<br />

effectively out of financial reach for the vast majority of<br />

consumers. Lightbox coloured lab-grown diamonds offer<br />

consumers the opportunity to own these spectacular stones<br />

at an accessible price point for the very first time.”<br />

Many in the diamond industry consider the natural home of<br />

lab-created stones to be in fashion jewellery, gifting, and selfpurchase<br />

– Bolton calls fashion jewellery a driver of “massive<br />

growth” – with engagement, bridal, and luxury reserved for<br />

natural diamonds.<br />

Steve Coe<br />

Lightbox Jewelry<br />

"It is now clear that the great<br />

quality of lab-grown diamonds<br />

and the far more accessible<br />

price point opens up the<br />

opportunity for more frequent<br />

gifting and self-purchase."<br />

Iris Van der Veken<br />

Responsible <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Council<br />

"Setting a standard for LGMs<br />

is an important strategic<br />

initiative by RJC, underlining<br />

our commitment to ensure<br />

that all jewellery is responsibly<br />

sourced, manufactured and<br />

marketed. It is all about<br />

consumer confidence."<br />

Edahn Golan<br />

Diamond Industry Analyst<br />

"We see continued demand<br />

and a continued decrease in<br />

prices. What we’re seeing is<br />

the sort of 'ills' we’re suffering<br />

from in the natural diamond<br />

industry. A lot of goods are<br />

supplied on memo, there’s<br />

stiff competition between<br />

wholesalers, and, in addition<br />

to that, we’re seeing the<br />

elements that are typical of a<br />

technologically driven item."<br />

Observes Lightbox Jewelry’s Coe, “It is now clear that the<br />

great quality of lab-grown diamonds and the far more<br />

accessible price point opens up the opportunity for more<br />

frequent gifting and self-purchase.<br />

"That’s where we see the really exciting opportunity for labgrown<br />

diamonds to develop a genuinely additive jewellery<br />

business which takes share from other luxury/fashion<br />

products – such as accessories and handbags.<br />

He adds, “We are seeing the category expand as other brands<br />

recognise this opportunity in the fashion space.”<br />

Pandora Jewelry – the world’s largest jewellery company by<br />

volume – introduced its first range centred on lab-created<br />

diamonds, Pandora Brilliance, earlier this year.<br />

The decision to simultaneously publicise the phasing out<br />

of natural diamond jewellery – which made up a tiny<br />

fraction of its overall production – was calculated to take<br />

advantage of growing consumer sentiment for sustainable<br />

and ethical products.<br />

Pandora Jewelry – the world’s largest<br />

jewellery company by volume –<br />

introduced its first range centred<br />

on lab-created diamonds, Pandora<br />

Brilliance, earlier this year"<br />

Alexander Lacik, CEO Pandora, said at the time, “I’m<br />

proud to announce the introduction of Pandora Brilliance.<br />

It’s a new collection of beautifully designed jewellery<br />

featuring lab-created diamonds. They are as much a symbol<br />

of innovation and progress as they are of enduring beauty<br />

and stand as a testament to our ongoing and ambitious<br />

sustainability agenda.”<br />

The company commissioned corporate governance<br />

firm Sphera to provide an independent third-party<br />

assessment of the CVD lab-created diamond production<br />

process, from raw materials to synthesis, cutting and<br />

polishing, and transportation.<br />

The Sphera report found that electricity consumption during<br />

synthesis was responsible for “more than 90 per cent” of total<br />

<strong>October</strong> <strong>2021</strong> | 35

Lab-Created Diamonds | IN-DEPTH FEATURE<br />

L to R: New World Diamonds;<br />

Swarovski Created Diamonds<br />

CO 2<br />

emissions “in most scenarios”; the emissions per carat<br />

could range from 612kg for a lab-created diamond produced<br />

in India, to 17kg for one produced in Europe using 100 per<br />

cent renewable energy.<br />

A 2019 report commissioned by the Diamond Producers<br />

Association – now the Natural Diamond Council – estimated<br />

that natural diamonds produce 160kg CO 2<br />

per carat.<br />

Pandora said it expects the lab-created diamonds in the<br />

Brilliance range to be manufactured using 100 per cent<br />

renewable energy by 2022.<br />

Of course, the ecological credentials of the entire lab-created<br />

sector are far more difficult to objectively quantify, varying<br />

greatly across different manufacturers.<br />

Consumers 'consistently identify the<br />

sustainable, eco-friendly message<br />

of lab-grown diamonds to be frontof-mind',<br />

while the most compelling<br />

purchasing trigger is the 'ability to<br />

trade up in diamond size and quality<br />

for the same price as a smaller<br />

mined diamond"<br />

Still, many lab-created diamond producers remain committed<br />

to achieving transparent and sustainable supply chains.<br />

Says Diamond Foundry’s Martin, “There is a lot more demand<br />

than supply. Meeting this demand, and doing so sustainably,<br />

continues to drive us.<br />

"Sustainability and respecting the Earth’s resources are core<br />

attributes of our business, and we have focused our growth<br />

on sites with 100 per cent renewable power.”<br />

Another US-based producer, WD Lab Grown Diamonds,<br />

was the first manufacturer to be certified by SCS Global<br />

Services – an international standards development business<br />

specialising in sustainability and quality performance – under<br />

its Certification Standard for Sustainable Diamonds.<br />


Lab-Grown<br />

Stats<br />

1.8x<br />

retail gross<br />

margin for labcreated<br />

diamonds<br />

compared with<br />

natural diamonds in<br />

'popular' carat sizes<br />

Paul Zimnisky analysis<br />

41%<br />

proportion of<br />

consumers who<br />

do not know the<br />

difference between<br />

mined and labcreated<br />

diamonds<br />

The Plumb Club<br />

35%<br />

retail price of<br />

lab-created 1-carat<br />

G colour VSclarity<br />

diamond,<br />

relative to a mined<br />

diamond of equal<br />

quality, in 2020<br />

Bain & Co.<br />

This grants WD Lab Grown Diamonds third-party<br />

authorisation to use the claim of 'Certified Sustainable'<br />

and 'Certified Climate Neutral' for their products.<br />

Miller believes this is positive for the industry as a whole,<br />

having "introduced new levels of transparency".<br />

From a consumer perspective, Neubauer observes that labcreated<br />

diamonds are considered to be a “great alternative for<br />

those on a budget, for those who are eco-conscious and those<br />

who are ethically conscious”.<br />

Recent consumer research conducted by The MVEye –<br />

formerly MVI Marketing – found that consumers “consistently<br />

identify the sustainable, eco-friendly message of lab-grown<br />

diamonds to be front-of-mind”, while the most compelling<br />

purchasing trigger is the “ability to trade up in diamond size<br />

and quality for the same price as a smaller mined diamond”.<br />

Competition or complementary?<br />

When lab-created diamonds first entered the jewellery<br />

category, debate raged over the impact they would have on<br />

the natural category.<br />

“In the beginning, it felt like it was a competition between the<br />

two,” Neubauer observes.“People were afraid that lab-grown<br />

diamond sales would overtake natural diamond sales. However,<br />

it has become more clear that both natural and lab-grown<br />

diamonds can be marketed side-by-side, targeting different<br />

demographics,” she says.<br />

Adds Bolton, “When lab-grown diamonds were first<br />

introduced to the market, we had many jewellers and<br />

competitors say, ‘We will never stock them.’<br />

“Today, we have found that almost everyone accepts there is a<br />

place in the market for these stones – and for more than half<br />

a place in the store as well!”<br />

Edwards notes that the perception of the lab-grown category<br />

versus natural diamonds – and the willingness to stock them<br />

– “depends on the individual retail store and what message<br />

they wish to convey to their customers.”<br />

“Now that pricing has stabilised and the education around<br />

quality is more established, this relationship can be more<br />

easily defined and separated within the individual retail stores,”<br />

he adds.<br />

36 | <strong>October</strong> <strong>2021</strong>

Swarovski Created Diamonds

Lab-Created Diamonds | IN-DEPTH FEATURE<br />

L to R: Miadonna;<br />

Moi Moi Fine <strong>Jeweller</strong>y<br />

Lightbox Jewelry<br />

Still, skirmishes have occurred throughout this<br />

year, largely focused on advertising terminology<br />

and ethical claims.<br />

In February, the Natural Diamond Council<br />

(NDC) referred Diamond Foundry and its<br />

jewellery brand, Vrai, to US advertising<br />

watchdog the National Advertising Division<br />

(NAD), challenging descriptions and<br />

nomenclature used in digital marketing.<br />

“NAD determined that Diamond Foundry must,<br />

consistent with the Federal Trade Commission<br />

(FTC) Jewelry Guides, make an effective disclosure<br />

that its diamonds are man-made. NAD further<br />

found that, consistent with the FTC Jewelry Guides<br />

and the FTC Dot Com Disclosure publication,<br />

the advertiser should distinguish its [lab-grown<br />

diamonds] from mined diamonds,” a NAD<br />

statement read.<br />

The following month, NAD acted upon a complaint<br />

by Diamond Foundry against the NDC over<br />

claims that natural mined diamonds produce<br />

“three times less carbon emissions” than labcreated<br />

diamonds.<br />

NAD found that the NDC’s evidence for this claim<br />

was “not sufficiently reliable” and “concerned<br />

that such claims conveyed a broader implied<br />

message about the overall environmental benefits<br />

of mined diamonds versus man-made diamonds”,<br />

recommending it remove the claim alongside<br />

online advertising that referred to the “scarcity of<br />

mined diamonds [and] the resale value of mined<br />

diamonds versus man-made diamonds”.<br />

The body also determined that the NDC’s use<br />

of the term “real” to describe mined diamonds<br />

could, in context, incorrectly imply that lab-created<br />

diamonds had different chemical or physical<br />

properties to mined diamonds, and that consumers<br />

“may incorrectly conflate [lab-created diamonds],<br />

such as Diamond Foundry’s, with imitation<br />

diamonds like moissanite and cubic zirconia”.<br />

In May, organisations including the NDC,<br />

CIBJO, the World Diamond Council (WDC), the<br />

Responsible <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Council (RJC), and the<br />

International Diamond Manufacturers Association<br />

publicly called for Pandora Jewelry to retract<br />

elements of its statement announcing its decision<br />

to stop stocking natural diamonds.<br />

While calling the Pandora Brilliance range a<br />

“positive expansion of the jewellery industry”,<br />

the organisations explained, “The misleading<br />

narrative created by the Pandora announcement<br />

implying the natural diamond industry is both less<br />

ethical and the impetus behind Pandora’s move<br />

to lab-grown diamonds, particularly given the<br />

inconsequential amount of diamonds Pandora<br />

features in its collections, can have unintended<br />

but substantial consequences on communities in<br />

developing nations.”<br />

It is clear that, while still<br />

small, the lab-created<br />

diamond category has<br />

potential, and offers jewellery<br />

retailers opportunities to<br />

appeal to new customers<br />

– without encroaching on<br />

existing diamond sales"<br />

According to research commissioned by the<br />

NDC – then known as the Diamond Producers<br />

Association – in 2019, diamond mining was<br />

found to create social benefits that the labcreated<br />

sector did not, including an estimated<br />

$US16 billion annually to communities, largely<br />

in developing nations, through direct employment,<br />

purchase of goods and services, and funding of<br />

social programs.<br />

Still, Diamond Foundry’s Martin says diamond<br />

mining companies are in a “difficult situation” as<br />

mining “necessarily depletes natural resources; it<br />

is by definition not sustainable”.<br />

“Recently, there have been important rulings in<br />

North America to increase clarity in the marketing<br />

of mined diamonds. Most importantly, there is a<br />

push to ensure transparency in the market, broad<br />

consumer choice, and awareness of where a<br />

diamond is from and the environmental impact,”<br />

she explains.<br />

Meanwhile, the RJC has recently announced that<br />

it will develop a best-practice standard specifically<br />

for 'lab-grown materials' (LGMs), beyond its<br />

existing Code of Practices.<br />

Iris Van der Veken, executive director of the<br />

RJC, said, “Setting a standard for LGMs is an<br />

important strategic initiative by RJC, underlining<br />

our commitment to ensure that all jewellery is<br />

responsibly sourced, manufactured and marketed.<br />

It is all about consumer confidence.<br />

“This standard will provide a clear, robust<br />

framework not only for manufacturers and<br />

retailers, but also for reassuring customers that<br />

the manufacturers and sellers of LGMs follow<br />

rigorous processes that ensure the credibility and<br />

transparency of their operations.”<br />

Observes Miller, “Every industry faces their<br />

challenges, and the mined space is being<br />

challenged by lab-grown.<br />

"Both mined and lab-grown need to push their<br />

strengths and see what appeals to each customer.<br />

Ongoing negative engagement between the two<br />

sides will only push consumers to spend their<br />

money in other industries.”<br />

Adds Edwards, “Reduced pricing, increased<br />

consumer demand and acceptance – with overall<br />

more general market awareness – highlights that<br />

lab-grown diamonds are fast becoming a core and<br />

essential category within the trade.”<br />

It is clear that, while still small, the lab-created<br />

diamond category has potential, and offers<br />

jewellery retailers opportunities to appeal to new<br />

customers – without encroaching on existing<br />

diamond sales.<br />

38 | <strong>October</strong> <strong>2021</strong>


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Local Talent<br />


‘Sybelle’ Pendant<br />

Metal: 9-carat yellow gold<br />

April Louise<br />

Brisbane, QLD<br />

ALETHEIA &<br />

PHOS<br />

Zodiac Necklace<br />

Metals: (Left)<br />

14-carat gold-plated<br />

sterling silver; (right)<br />

rhodium-plated<br />

sterling silver<br />

Gemstones:<br />

Sapphire, ruby<br />

Alicia Millan<br />

Melbourne, VIC<br />



'Oracle' Earrings<br />

Metal: Sterling<br />

silver<br />

Gemstone:<br />

Boulder opal<br />

Mia Savage<br />

Byron Bay, NSW<br />

Australia and New Zealand are not only home to some of the<br />

rarest gemstones in the world, but also the most talented jewellers.<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong> showcases a tapestry of local masterpieces that have been<br />

meticulously crafted with great artisanship, right here on home soil<br />



Hand Engraved<br />

Signet Ring<br />

Metal: 9-carat yellow gold<br />

Benjamin Rose<br />

Melbourne, VIC<br />

ARBOR<br />


'Gold Slide' Drop<br />

Earrings<br />

Metal: 9-carat<br />

yellow gold<br />

Susan McGinness<br />

Canberra, ACT<br />

40 | <strong>October</strong> <strong>2021</strong>


‘Art Collector’<br />

Hoop Earrings<br />

Metal: Rhodiumplated<br />

sterling silver<br />

Gemstones:<br />

Brown diamond,<br />

smoky quartz,<br />

and citrine<br />

Natalie Triglone<br />

Sydney, NSW<br />

SARAH &<br />


‘Gossamer’<br />

Hoops<br />

Metal: 10-carat<br />

yellow gold<br />

Gemstone:<br />

White diamond<br />

Sarah Munro<br />

& Robert<br />

Sebastian<br />

Grynkofki<br />

Sydney, NSW<br />


IGREJA<br />

JEWELS<br />

'Tussie Mussie<br />

C Studs'<br />

Earrings<br />

Metals: 18-carat<br />

yellow goldplated<br />

sterling silver<br />

Gemstone:<br />

White sapphire<br />

Manuela Igreja<br />

Melbourne, VIC<br />

WHITE<br />


'BB (Boss Babe)'<br />

Signet Ring<br />

Metal: Silver<br />

Gemstones: Labcreated<br />

emerald,<br />

Australian white opal,<br />

and rose quartz<br />

Bianca Librandi<br />

Melbourne, VIC<br />

TONI MAY<br />

'Cosmic<br />

Diamond Art<br />

Deco' Ring<br />

Metal: 9-carat<br />

white gold<br />

Gemstones: Black<br />

and grey diamond<br />

Laura Byrne<br />

Sydney, NSW<br />

E.G.ETAL<br />

‘Garden of the<br />

Beloved’ Ring<br />

Metal: 18-carat<br />

yellow gold<br />

Gemstones: Sapphire,<br />

tourmaline, and<br />

champagne diamond<br />

Emma Goodsir<br />

Melbourne, VIC<br />


MANNIX<br />


Tourmaline<br />

Heart Signet<br />

Ring<br />

Metal: 9-carat<br />

yellow gold<br />

Gemstone:<br />

Tourmaline<br />

Anastasia Mannix<br />

Melbourne, VIC<br />

<strong>October</strong> <strong>2021</strong> | 41


Timesupply<br />

jewellery + watches<br />

p +61 (0)8 8221 5580<br />

sales@timesupply.com.au | timesupply.com.au<br />

exclusive distributor AU & NZ


Timesupply<br />

jewellery + watches<br />

p +61 (0)8 8221 5580<br />

sales@timesupply.com.au | coeurdelionjewellery.com.au<br />

exclusive distributor AU & NZ

Champagne & Cognac<br />

D I A M O N D S<br />

l o S t r i v e r d i A m o n d S i S A n A u S t r A l i A n o W n e d b u S i n e S S S u p p ly i n g<br />

A r g y l e o r i g i n C e r t i f i e d C h A m pA g n e A n d C o g n A C d i A m o n d S .<br />

S u p p l i e r o f :<br />

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Christmas Stock Special<br />


READY<br />

In lieu of the annual jewellery trade fair due to<br />

COVID-19, <strong>Jeweller</strong> has worked with suppliers<br />

for a marketing and advertising promotion to<br />

inspire and delight your customers. Ensure your<br />

store is well-prepared ahead of the all-important<br />

Christmas and New Year shopping period.<br />

<strong>October</strong> <strong>2021</strong> | 45

Christmas Ready | <strong>2021</strong> HOLIDAY STOCK SPECIAL<br />

Ania Haie<br />

Duraflex Group Australia<br />

Preparing for a stylish summer, Ania<br />

Haie’s new collections encapsulate the<br />

season’s hottest styles. The Forget Me<br />

Knot collection stems from the catwalk<br />

trend of knotted and netted materials.<br />

Exploring the use of shape and<br />

construction, it features contemporary<br />

chunky T-bar chains, knotted ear cuffs<br />

and sleek, stackable knot rings.<br />

aniahaie.com.au<br />

APDX<br />

SAMS Group Australia<br />

Australian Pink Diamond Exchange (APDX)<br />

is a world-first digital marketplace, made<br />

exclusively for Argyle pink diamond investors<br />

and traders. It is the one and only platform<br />

that facilitates safe and secure buying and<br />

selling of Argyle stones.<br />

australianpinkdiamondexchange.com.au<br />

Athan Imports<br />

athan.com.au<br />

Athan Imports<br />

presents Italianmade<br />

3–30-point<br />

tennis mounts, and<br />

delicate 9-carat<br />

and 18-carat white,<br />

yellow, and rose gold<br />

chains in a variety<br />

of on-trend and<br />

classic styles.<br />

Baume & Mercier<br />

Duraflex Group Australia<br />

Originally created in 1973, the iconic Riviera<br />

watch has been given a new lease on life<br />

this year. Revamped in green to express the<br />

energy, joie de vivre, and natural environment<br />

of its homeland – the Mediterranean coast – it<br />

retains the original’s distinctive dodecagonal<br />

bezel and streamlined steel case.<br />

baume-et-mercier.com/au<br />

Beco Technic<br />

The Battery Man<br />

Watch repair Christmas<br />

gifts for your own<br />

workshop! Assemble<br />

the hands of both wrist<br />

and pocket watches with<br />

precision using this tool<br />

German-made Beco<br />

Technic tool.<br />

thebatteryman.com.au<br />

Biron Laboratory Grown Diamonds<br />

Biron Laboratory Grown Diamonds embody<br />

all the beauty of a natural diamond, and<br />

have the same physical, chemical, and<br />

optical properties, without harming the<br />

environment. Explore the amazing and<br />

affordable range of jewellery, perfect for<br />

Christmas. Contact Biron for pricing and<br />

images on the full jewellery range.<br />

biron.com.au<br />

46 | <strong>October</strong> <strong>2021</strong>

Australian Diamond<br />

Trading Company<br />

adtc.com.au<br />

Made from 9-carat<br />

white gold, these<br />

graduating open double<br />

teardrop earrings are<br />

set with 30 white pique<br />

diamonds with a total<br />

weight of 0.50 carats.<br />

These claw-set huggie<br />

earrings feature 10<br />

claw-set white diamonds<br />

with a total weight of 0.50<br />

carats. Also available in<br />

0.80 carat, 1 carat, or 1.50<br />

carat, set in 9-carat white<br />

gold with pique diamonds<br />

or 18-carat white gold<br />

with SI diamonds.<br />

The Blush Pink range is an epitome<br />

of charm and opulence intertwined<br />

together. Delicate and utterly<br />

elegant, it features affordable styles<br />

that retain an exquisite sense of<br />

rare luxury.<br />

Crafted in 9-carat white<br />

gold, this graduating<br />

open teardrop pendant<br />

features nine white pique<br />

diamonds with a total<br />

weight of 0.25 carats.<br />

Blush Pink Diamonds<br />

SAMS Group Australia<br />

Own part of Australian history with<br />

Blush Pink Diamonds' jewellery.<br />

Our popular high-end pieces have<br />

been lovingly crafted into pieces<br />

for everyone to enjoy. All of our<br />

designs have been conceptualised<br />

and made with scrupulous attention<br />

to detail, and deliver an air of<br />

exceptional distinction.<br />

pinkkimberley.com.au<br />

Bronzallure<br />

Duraflex Group Australia<br />

The Alba Collection features<br />

nature’s most sought-after hues<br />

in contemporary designs, with new<br />

additions malachite, amazonite and<br />

red fossil wood.<br />

bronzallure.com<br />

E pink@samsgroup.com.au W samsgroup.com.au P 02 9290 2199

Christmas Ready | <strong>2021</strong> HOLIDAY STOCK SPECIAL<br />

Cactus Smart Watches<br />

Avantco<br />

cactuswatches.com<br />

Cactus' new releases include<br />

smartwatches and fitness<br />

trackers for all ages. Featuring<br />

all the classic functions<br />

including dual-mode Bluetooth<br />

calls, message notifications,<br />

steps, and heart rate, they also<br />

track body temperature, blood<br />

pressure and blood oxygen.<br />

Stock up on<br />

popular Cactus Time<br />

Teacher watches for<br />

kids. These bestsellers<br />

are packed<br />

with child-friendly<br />

features. They are<br />

water resistant for<br />

swimming and have<br />

flexible, comfortable<br />

silicone bands, and<br />

specially-designed<br />

dials to help children<br />

learn how to tell clock<br />

time. The perfect first<br />

watch for kids!<br />

Chemgold<br />

The Petite Signet range of rings is perfect for<br />

gifting. Each ring can be personalised with<br />

laser engraving and is available in a range of<br />

alloys and colours, the most popular being<br />

9-carat yellow gold. The tops are 9mm at their<br />

widest and can be ordered in any finger size.<br />

chemgold.com<br />

Chiara Ferragni<br />

West End Collection<br />

Presenting the Diamond Heart Collection by<br />

Chiara Ferragni, the 'world's most powerful<br />

fashion influencer'. The collection features<br />

'90s-inspired pieces with Italian style and<br />

sophistication. The Heart Silver Chain<br />

Bracelet is embedded with crystal-cut stones<br />

along the length and 3-micron palladium<br />

platinum plating, finished with rhodium<br />

for high-sparkle elegance. It is the perfect<br />

accessory and finishing touch for any outfit.<br />

westendcollection.com.au<br />

Coeur de Lion Germany<br />

Timesupply<br />

This season it's all about colour!<br />

Vibrant petrol green graduates to blue<br />

Swarovski Crystals in this beautiful<br />

finer GeoCUBE style from Coeur de<br />

Lion. Handmade in Germany.<br />

coeurdelionjewellery.com.au<br />

Classique<br />

SAMS Group Australia<br />

It’s never too late to get a matching set<br />

of his-and-hers watches from Classique.<br />

Featuring a Swiss-made movement with an<br />

exceptionally tasteful design, timepieces from<br />

Classique's Elegance Diamond Collection are<br />

the perfect gift for a sophisticated couple.<br />

classiquewatches.com<br />

48 | <strong>October</strong> <strong>2021</strong>

Couture Kingdom<br />

couturekingdom.com<br />

Couture Kingdom<br />

x Streets Classics<br />

Couture Kingdom is proud to<br />

announce its new licence with<br />

the Streets Classics Collection.<br />

Inspired by Aussie childhood<br />

favourites Bubble O’Bill and<br />

Paddle Pop, these pop culture<br />

jewellery pieces pay tribute to<br />

summer memories and come in<br />

a broad selection of styles and<br />

price points, with the quality and<br />

detail expected from a Couture<br />

Kingdom collection.<br />

Couture Kingdom x Disney<br />

Part of the global Ultimate<br />

Princess Celebration comes the<br />

newest Disney range from Couture<br />

Kingdom, featuring The Little<br />

Mermaid, Cinderella, Princess<br />

Belle, Princess Tiana and Moana.<br />

Crafted in plated sterling silver, this<br />

collection boasts styles for Disney<br />

Princess fans of all ages, and makes<br />

for the perfect keepsake gift for a<br />

magical holiday season.<br />

www.westendcollection.com.au<br />

info@westendcollection.com.au<br />

Ph: 03 9553 3777

Christmas Ready | <strong>2021</strong> HOLIDAY STOCK SPECIAL<br />

Cultured <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Designs<br />

culturedjewellerydesigns.com<br />

This bracelet features stunning<br />

multi-toned pink freshwater pearls,<br />

sized 11–11.5mm, with magnetic<br />

clasp in rose gold-plated silver.<br />

Multi-toned natural pink<br />

freshwater pearls, sized 11–<br />

11.5mm, combine to create<br />

beautifully feminine effect<br />

in this necklace, joined with<br />

a delicate magnetic clasp in<br />

rose gold-plated silver.<br />

Complete the set with these<br />

11–11.5mm natural pink<br />

freshwater pearl stud earrings,<br />

crafted in 9-carat rose gold.<br />

D1 Milano<br />

West End Collection<br />

The Skeleton Automatic is<br />

made for those who seek<br />

a bold style. It features<br />

a 41.5mm see-through<br />

case and stands out for<br />

its 24-jewel self-winding<br />

Japanese movement,<br />

enriched by a stainlesssteel<br />

bracelet.<br />

westendcollection.com.au<br />

DJ Diamond Designs<br />

djdiamonddesigns.com.au<br />

A fresh take on traditional hoop<br />

earrings, these elegant 18-carat<br />

white gold diamond hoops have a<br />

sophisticated open design. Also<br />

available in rose or yellow gold.<br />

This beautiful<br />

18-carat white gold<br />

crossover dress ring<br />

is set with more<br />

than 1.70 carats of<br />

sparkling natural<br />

diamonds. Also<br />

available in 18-carat<br />

rose or yellow gold.<br />

A new addition to the DJ<br />

Diamond Designs range,<br />

this outstanding dress ring<br />

is crafted in 18-carat white,<br />

yellow and rose gold, set<br />

with shimmering diamonds.<br />

These stunning 18-carat drop<br />

earrings feature more than 7.30<br />

carats of natural diamonds,<br />

sapphires and emeralds. There<br />

is also an equally stunning<br />

matching pendant available.<br />

More than 3 carats of<br />

natural white diamonds<br />

adorn this splendid 18-carat<br />

white gold cross-over bangle.<br />

50 | <strong>October</strong> <strong>2021</strong>

Dansk Copenhagen<br />

Timesupply<br />

A new addition to the everpopular<br />

Amber Collection<br />

is the new Amber Square<br />

necklace and bracelet. Like<br />

much of the Dansk jewellery<br />

range, this adaptable, textured<br />

necklace and bracelet set can<br />

be worn at different lengths.<br />

danskcopenhagen.com<br />

Diamonds by DGA<br />

Duraflex Group Australia<br />

Duraflex Group Australia is delighted<br />

to share the latest addition to the<br />

unbranded Diamonds by DGA<br />

range – 9-carat gold and diamond<br />

Initial Necklaces, available in yellow<br />

or white gold. The on-trend Initial<br />

Necklaces feature a single diamondencrusted<br />

letter pendant suspended<br />

on a fine chain.<br />

dgau.com.au<br />

DiamondsNRocks<br />

DiamondsNRocks presents four perfectly-matched, E-F colour diamonds<br />

with a total weight of 6 carats – ideal for a ring, earrings, and pendant set.<br />

DiamondsNRocks is an exclusive supplier of rough stones and matching<br />

sets, with a promise of the best diamonds at the best prices.<br />

diamondsnrocks.com.au<br />



Australian leading wholesaler, specialising in manufacturing<br />

9ct and 18ct yellow gold, rose gold and white gold.<br />

Machine made and hand made, any kind, chains and bracelets,<br />

bangles and findings. Suppliers to retailers and wholesalers.<br />


P: 03 9650 5955 | E: sales@millenniumchain.com.au<br />


Christmas Ready | <strong>2021</strong> HOLIDAY STOCK SPECIAL<br />

Efva Attling Stockholm<br />

Nordic Fusion<br />

nordicfusion.com.au<br />

As one of Scandinavia’s most<br />

recognised designers and silversmiths,<br />

Efva Attling's jewellery embodies<br />

modern elegance with an edgy twist. The<br />

Rose Petal Collection from Efva Attling<br />

Stockholm is inspired by the Blue Moon<br />

rose growing in the designer’s garden.<br />

Available in 18-carat white or yellow gold,<br />

with or without brilliant cut diamonds.<br />

Efva Attling loves to<br />

send messages of female<br />

empowerment with her designs<br />

that often have a deeper<br />

meaning. The Women Power<br />

Collection is a tribute to all<br />

women! These earrings, crafted<br />

in sterling silver, are formed as<br />

a flash-shaped 'W' for women,<br />

with the word 'power' stamped<br />

on the side.<br />

Ellendale Diamonds<br />

ellendalediamonds.com.au<br />

Combining sophistication and<br />

style, this trilogy ring features<br />

diamond-set shoulders, with a<br />

curved, open gallery supporting<br />

a 0.50-carat brilliant cut white<br />

diamond and two round brilliant<br />

Argyle pink diamonds totalling<br />

0.075 carats. Available in 18-carat<br />

white and rose gold, or platinum.<br />

Engelsrufer<br />

Pride Brands<br />

pridebrands.com.au<br />

Natural gemstone 'pearls',<br />

suspended in an Infinity symbol<br />

carriage, create an enchanting<br />

jewellery piece with meaning. Each<br />

gemstone – rose quartz, tiger'seye,<br />

malachite, blue agate, red<br />

jasper, or lapis lazuli – represents<br />

a star sign as well as a personal<br />

mantra, and can be interchanged.<br />

Available in sterling silver as well<br />

as gold and rose gold plating.<br />

This beautiful German-designed<br />

necklace is both decorative and<br />

symbolic. Surrounded by the moon<br />

and stars, the winged guardian<br />

angel is the centrepiece of the<br />

Heaven Soundball necklace. The<br />

mint green soundball can be<br />

changed for any other soundball<br />

or natural gemstone in the range<br />

to create an individual look.<br />

Give the perfect gift of a relaxing<br />

scented candle matched with a<br />

sterling silver necklace this holiday<br />

season. Available in Fig with<br />

Flower of Life necklace, Rose with<br />

Heartwing necklace and Bergamot<br />

with Tree of Life necklace, all in a<br />

beautiful gift box with the meaning<br />

behind the jewellery and scent<br />

detailed on the side.<br />

52 | <strong>October</strong> <strong>2021</strong>

www.morrisandwatson.com<br />

NEW ZEALAND | 0800 500 654<br />

AUSTRALIA | 1800 469 088<br />

Elegance is personified in<br />

this trilogy ring from Ellendale<br />

Diamonds, available in 18-carat<br />

white and rose gold, or platinum.<br />

Gently upswept shoulders meet<br />

a curved, open V gallery, with a<br />

four claw-set 0.50 carat D-colour<br />

diamond, nestled among six clawset<br />

round brilliant cut Argyle pink<br />

diamonds totalling 0.085 carats.<br />

Fabuleux Vous<br />

fabuleuxvous.com<br />

Several small, sterling silver<br />

circles make up the perfectly<br />

detailed Bijoux Silver Earrings.<br />

With a layered, textured look,<br />

these earrings shimmer and<br />

move with you.<br />

CAD/CAM<br />

& MOULD<br />


Simple and unique in<br />

their design, the Silver Perle<br />

Freshwater Pearl Chain<br />

earrings pull together<br />

the classic elements of<br />

fine jewellery with the<br />

freshwater pearls and<br />

sterling silver chains.<br />

Take Your Concept From Idea to Design,<br />

Ready to Print CAD Files in Five Days!<br />

*<br />

*Lead time excludes other casting services and shipping, working days only.<br />

Make a mould of your design to cast multiples<br />

without multiple print fees, vulcanized rubber and<br />

silicone moulds available from just $20.<br />

Refining | Bullion | Fabrication | CAD/CAM | Casting | Chain

Christmas Ready | <strong>2021</strong> HOLIDAY STOCK SPECIAL<br />

Georgini<br />

West End Collection<br />

Sourced exclusively for the Noel Nights<br />

Collection by Georgini, the new stunning<br />

cubic zirconia cut, known as 'Sliced Stone',<br />

is the first of its kind to hit the market. It<br />

offers a sophisticated and sleek look with<br />

minimal facets and optimal sparkle. The<br />

Noel Nights Collection is crafted in goldplated<br />

925 sterling silver.<br />

westendcollection.com.au<br />

Golden Mile<br />

goldenmile.com.au<br />

Golden Mile’s paperclip<br />

link range is extensive<br />

and constantly growing as we develop<br />

styles to keep on top of the latest<br />

fashion trends. Available in 9-carat<br />

gold, 18-carat gold, 9-carat silver<br />

filled, or sterling silver, in the length<br />

of your choosing. Head to the Golden<br />

Mile website to see the full range.<br />

Gerrim International<br />

gerrim.com<br />

Gerrim presents the<br />

coolest of colours for<br />

summer with the Green<br />

Amethyst & Diamond<br />

Ring, matching pendant<br />

and earrings. What could<br />

be more refreshing? In<br />

stock now.<br />

Simple and elegant<br />

9-carat Diamond Signet<br />

Rings are a statement<br />

piece for all time.<br />

Available in rose, yellow,<br />

or white gold, with<br />

delivery in seven to 10<br />

days for specific sizes.<br />

Grown Diamonds<br />

Physically, optically and<br />

chemically identical to<br />

mined diamonds, Grown<br />

Diamonds’ lab-created<br />

stones are ethical,<br />

eco-conscious and<br />

affordable. In stock is<br />

this stunning 5.01-carat<br />

VS1 oval-cut lab-grown<br />

diamond – the largest<br />

currently in Australia –<br />

which is available to<br />

view online.<br />

growndiamonds.com.au<br />

Guess<br />

Designa Accessories<br />

Intricate and multi-layered<br />

design details create a touch<br />

of luxury in the latest Guess<br />

ladies' timepiece, Afterglow.<br />

Featuring a black ombré<br />

dial with pavé set, polished<br />

gold case, and bracelet with<br />

crystal embellishments,<br />

this watch is sure to elevate<br />

your look. Also available<br />

in polished rose gold and<br />

polished silver with blue dial.<br />

designaaccessories.com.au<br />

54 | <strong>October</strong> <strong>2021</strong>



Did you know that Golden Mile<br />

now keep fine chains in stock? We<br />

have invested heavily in ensuring the<br />

majority of our chains are in stock<br />

in all standard lengths in a variety of<br />

9-carat yellow, white and rose golds,<br />

as well as on the spool. Order now for<br />

quick delivery.<br />




IN STOCK<br />

FOR 24 HOUR<br />


Regal and glorious<br />

in the deepest of blues,<br />

the London Blue<br />

Topaz & Diamond trio<br />

set, comprising ring,<br />

pendant, and earrings, is<br />

one of Gerrim’s all-time<br />

favourites. In stock now.<br />

Harper & Rowe<br />

Our ‘Star’ freshwater<br />

pearl earrings make a<br />

dazzling impression.<br />

Featuring gorgeous<br />

14–15mm baroque<br />

freshwater pearls, with<br />

925 sterling silver, cubic<br />

zirconia fittings, these<br />

breathtaking earrings<br />

are the perfect festive<br />

season accessory.<br />

harperandrowe.com.au<br />

The biggest range of gold<br />

jewellery in Australia.<br />

sales@goldenmile.com.au<br />

03 9753 3977<br />


Christmas Ready | <strong>2021</strong> HOLIDAY STOCK SPECIAL<br />

Ikecho Australia<br />

Part of Ikecho Australia's latest<br />

collection, this 9-carat rose gold<br />

design features a 12mm natural<br />

pink round Edison freshwater<br />

pearl suspended from a<br />

delicate diamond-set pendant.<br />

ikecho.com.au<br />

Infinity Rings<br />

Infinity Rings has put<br />

together a modern and<br />

stylish collection of stacker<br />

rings, manufactured using<br />

only the best quality alloys.<br />

Explore how you can<br />

build the perfect stacker<br />

collection and customise<br />

the designs with the Infinity<br />

Rings DesignStudio.<br />

infinityrings.com.au<br />

JAG<br />

Duraflex Group Australia<br />

JAG originated in 1972 on Chapel<br />

Street in Melbourne. Today, it<br />

is internationally renowned as<br />

an iconic Australian brand. The<br />

seasonal JAG fashion watch<br />

collections offer an affordable<br />

range of models for men and<br />

women, featuring casual and<br />

timeless styles with an urban feel.<br />

dgau.com.au/jag<br />

JC Jewels<br />

Register for your login to the<br />

JC Jewels B2B portal to see<br />

our complete range of labgrown<br />

diamond jewellery, more<br />

than 80,000 loose, certified labgrown<br />

and mined diamonds,<br />

smalls, matched shoulder<br />

stones, and more.<br />

jcjewels.com.au<br />

Labanda<br />

Servicing both the watch and<br />

jewellery industries, Labanda<br />

is an Australian supplier<br />

specialising in quality tools<br />

and equipment, with<br />

exceptional service.<br />

labanda.com.au<br />

56 | <strong>October</strong> <strong>2021</strong>

S&S<br />



K&K Export Import<br />

Ethically sourced<br />

directly from the mine,<br />

K&K Export Import has<br />

secured a magnificent<br />

range of emerald from<br />

Brazil, from 0.50 to 5<br />

carats, with larger sizes<br />

available on request.<br />

Contact us for more<br />

information on these<br />

goods, along with all<br />

other types of natural<br />

colour gemstones and<br />

fancy colour diamonds.<br />

03 9654 4449<br />

LJ West Diamonds<br />

Introducing the Argyle Motif Collection<br />

from the Scott West Jewelry range.<br />

Featuring natural Argyle pink diamonds<br />

from Western Australia set in platinum<br />

and 18-carat gold handmade jewellery,<br />

two icons come together in a magnificent<br />

collection – where luxury design meets<br />

the most precious treasure of Australia. Ph: +61 3 9587 1215<br />

Email: info@stonesandsilver.com.au<br />


Christmas Ready | <strong>2021</strong> HOLIDAY STOCK SPECIAL<br />

LJ West Diamonds<br />

ljwestdiamonds.com<br />

For more than 30<br />

years, the West Family<br />

has been collecting the<br />

rarest natural colour<br />

diamonds on Earth. As<br />

one of the earliest Argyle<br />

Authorised Partners, our<br />

collection of rare fancy<br />

colour diamonds and<br />

Argyle pink diamonds is<br />

truly exceptional.<br />

With a<br />

stunning, vibrant<br />

raspberry colour,<br />

this 2-carat<br />

Fancy Intense<br />

Pink Argyle 3PR<br />

diamond is part<br />

of the Argyle 2019<br />

Tender Series.<br />

Argyle pink diamonds<br />

display some of the rarest<br />

colours among all natural<br />

colour diamonds. Not only<br />

does this 0.67-carat stone<br />

feature a Fancy Intense<br />

Argyle 5P colour, but it is<br />

also one of only a handful<br />

of emerald shapes available<br />

at any given moment.<br />

Natural purple<br />

diamonds, such as this<br />

0.40 Deep Pink Purple<br />

stone, are very rare,<br />

unique, and soughtafter.<br />

Collectors often<br />

search out these regal<br />

diamonds, as purple<br />

is an ancient symbol<br />

of nobility.<br />

Teal-coloured<br />

stones, such as this<br />

wonderful 0.34-carat<br />

Fancy Intense Blue<br />

Green diamond,<br />

are extremely<br />

desirable among<br />

natural colour<br />

diamond collectors<br />

worldwide.<br />

One of the top 42<br />

diamonds ever found<br />

at the Argyle Mine,<br />

The Imperial Violet,<br />

is a 1-carat Argyle<br />

BL3 Tender stone.<br />

The violet colour is<br />

the pinnacle of rarity<br />

in the natural colour<br />

diamond 'kingdom'.<br />

Mats Jonasson Maleras<br />

Shillcombe<br />

Swedish figurines from Mats Jonasson<br />

Maleras are the perfect accompaniment to<br />

all jewellery stock. Our handmade crystal is<br />

collectable and sold worldwide. In production<br />

since 1890, Mats Jonasson combines<br />

innovative design with artisan glass-making<br />

techniques. Welcome to the crystal kingdom!<br />

matsjonasson.com.au<br />

Maserati<br />

West End Collection<br />

Presenting the Maserati Stile Gold Chronograph<br />

Watch, part of the Stile Collection which embodies<br />

the mechanics, construction and stylistic codes<br />

of iconic sporting timepieces. The decisive lines,<br />

distinctive decagonal bezel and the slim case are<br />

combined with details that strongly identify with<br />

the sporting world, such as pump pushers and<br />

a screw-down crown.<br />

westendcollection.com.au<br />

Maxum<br />

Designa Accessories<br />

Built for extreme conditions and for those<br />

with an adventurous spirit, the Maxum<br />

range of watches help you to get the<br />

most out of every minute. The new men’s<br />

Vortex watch by Maxum features a 52mm<br />

red case and polyurethane strap, easy to<br />

read digital display, day and date function,<br />

backlight, alarm and is water resistant<br />

to 100 metres.<br />

designaaccessories.com.au<br />

58 | <strong>October</strong> <strong>2021</strong>

Luminox<br />

Duraflex Group Ausralia<br />

For more than 20 years, Luminox has<br />

partnered with maritime commandos to<br />

hone and refine a watch tough enough<br />

for the world’s finest warriors. Luminox<br />

is proud to announce the new Navy SEAL<br />

45mm Military Dive Watch XS.3508.GOLD,<br />

sporting the proprietary Carbonox casing<br />

and constant glow for up to 25 years.<br />

luminox.com.au<br />

Mark McAskill <strong>Jeweller</strong>y<br />

markmcaskill.com.au<br />

Lost River Diamonds<br />

One of a great range of certfied Argyle<br />

pink diamonds in stock at Lost River<br />

Diamonds is this princess-cut 0.46<br />

carat Argyle Tender Stone with Argyle<br />

1PP colour grade.<br />

lostriverdiamonds.com<br />

New to the Pink Caviar Collection, this<br />

pear-shaped double halo slider pendant<br />

features 16 Argyle pink diamonds in a rose<br />

gold channel setting, with a six claw-set<br />

pear diamonds and white diamond<br />

outer halo. The total diamond weight<br />

is approximately 0.34 carats. Available<br />

in 9-carat or 18-carat gold, with chain<br />

sold separately.<br />

Mays<br />

mays.com.au<br />

Natural rubies are a rarity in Australia.<br />

Most that are commonly available are<br />

synthetic – grown inside of a lab – or else<br />

heated-treated stones from Mozambique<br />

and Tanzania. Rarest are the unheated<br />

rubies that come from the famous Mogok<br />

stone tract in Burma (Myanmar) which are<br />

known for their iconic 'pigeon blood' colour.<br />

Throughout history, spinels have been the<br />

underdog when it comes to precious colour<br />

gemstones. Only about a century ago, scientists<br />

were able to differentiate spinel from ruby.<br />

Now among the most 'trending' gemstones,<br />

consumers and jewellers are beginning to<br />

appreciate their colour variety – particularly<br />

red, grey, and 'neon' pink, which is sometimes<br />

referred to as 'Jedi' spinel after the film series<br />

Star Wars.<br />

This stunning dress ring features a 10x8mm<br />

oval blue topaz in four talon-claw setting, and<br />

dazzling diamond shoulder settings with round<br />

brilliant and marquise-cut diamonds. The<br />

total diamond weight is approximately 0.28<br />

carats. Available in 9-carat gold, 18-carat<br />

gold, or platinum.

Christmas Ready | <strong>2021</strong> HOLIDAY STOCK SPECIAL<br />

Miamor<br />

Miamor's diamond tennis<br />

bracelets feature fine<br />

quality natural diamonds,<br />

always set in 18-carat<br />

white or yellow gold.<br />

All sizes available.<br />

miamordiamonds.com.au<br />

Miln & Co<br />

This beautiful, handmade and hand-engraved<br />

9-carat rose gold and sterling silver hinged<br />

bangle is one of many exquisite designs<br />

produced by fifth generation-owned jewellery<br />

manufacturers. It is also available in 9-carat<br />

yellow gold and polished sterling silver. Contact<br />

Miln & Co for more details or visit our website.<br />

milnco.com.au<br />

Morris & Watson<br />

Always aiming to improve our service and<br />

product range, Morris & Watson now offer<br />

computer-aided design (CAD) services in both<br />

Australia and New Zealand, so you can take<br />

your ideas from concept to creation! Design,<br />

print and cast your design with a business that<br />

has more than 40 years of casting experience.<br />

morrisandwatson.com<br />

Natural Gem Exchange<br />

Natural Gem Exchange is your<br />

Virtual Online Coloured Gemstone<br />

Inventory. If you are a jeweller or<br />

a jewellery brand, having access<br />

to a good gemstone inventory at<br />

any time can help you to offer a<br />

better service and diverse design<br />

options for your customers.<br />

naturalgemexchange.com<br />

Nomination Italy<br />

Timesupply<br />

In addition to the iconic Composable<br />

bracelet range, Nomination Italy also offers<br />

stunning Fashion <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Collections,<br />

such as this new release – the Sweetrock<br />

Romance Edition. It features gorgeous<br />

sterling silver and rose gold-plated hearts,<br />

stars, and moons, set with sparkling cubic<br />

zirconia on belcher chains.<br />

nomination-jewellery.com.au<br />

60 | <strong>October</strong> <strong>2021</strong>

Moore Jewels<br />

moorejewels.com.au<br />

This dainty, on-trend, necklace<br />

features an oval-shaped created<br />

opal, flanked by two cubic zirconia<br />

on each side. Set in rhodium-plated<br />

sterling silver, the chain length is<br />

40cm plus 5cm.<br />

The sterling silver Flag Necklace features a<br />

rhodium-plated Evil Eye and rose gold-plated<br />

Hamsa Hand – ancient symbols of protection<br />

– as well as a yellow gold-plated Lotus flower<br />

to symbolise growth and new beginnings. This<br />

lovely trio slide on a rhodium-plated chain and<br />

sit daintily at the base of the throat.<br />

Stylish and modern, this teardrop<br />

necklace features three pear-shaped, satinfinished<br />

sterling silver sliders – one rhodiumplated,<br />

one yellow gold-plated, and one rose<br />

gold-plated – that sit together to form a<br />

beautiful fan. The chain is also rhodiumplated<br />

and is 40cm plus 5cm in length.<br />

Nordgreen<br />

West End Collection<br />

Designed by Jakob Wagner, the carbon<br />

neutral Pioneer all-metal chronograph<br />

comes with interchangeable straps for<br />

a flexible look. Like each Nordgreen<br />

timepiece, the case is engraved with<br />

a unique serial number which allows<br />

customers to track the impact of their<br />

donation through the Giving Back program.<br />

westendcollection.com.au<br />

Full of personality, this cute necklace<br />

features a sweet seal carefully balancing a<br />

pearl 'ball' on his nose. Crafted in sterling<br />

silver with a freshwater pearl, the pendant<br />

has a 40cm plus 5cm chain.<br />

From Moore Jewels' Exotica range,<br />

these gorgeous sterling silver drop earrings<br />

feature both polished and lightly oxidised<br />

filigree adornments and sit on the ear with<br />

a simple shepherd’s hook. They measure<br />

25mm x 15mm.<br />

<strong>October</strong> <strong>2021</strong> | 61

Christmas Ready | <strong>2021</strong> HOLIDAY STOCK SPECIAL<br />

Peter W Beck<br />

pwbeck.com.au<br />

The Original Comfort Wedder<br />

has a distinct smooth inner curve<br />

which provides a luxuriously<br />

comfortable fit. The Original<br />

Comfort Wedder is also handfinished<br />

and polished, meaning<br />

that each one is not only unique,<br />

but also guaranteed to have the<br />

signature silky-smooth feel.<br />

Palloys<br />

Palloys is Australasia's premier jewellery<br />

manufacturing and custom jewellery<br />

service. From fabricated metals and<br />

findings, to design, print, casting, refining,<br />

diamonds, finishing services and finished<br />

jewellery, it all comes together at Palloys.<br />

palloys.com<br />




sales@tremac.com.au<br />


<strong>2021</strong> BUYING GUIDE | Christmas Ready<br />

Paterson Fine <strong>Jeweller</strong>y<br />

pfj.com.au<br />

New and on-trend,<br />

these initial pendants<br />

crafted in 9-carat<br />

yellow gold and natural<br />

diamonds personalise<br />

any necklace, bracelet<br />

or anklet. Each disc<br />

measures 10mm. Also<br />

available via special<br />

order in 9-carat white<br />

and rose gold.<br />

Peter W Beck has put together<br />

a unique selection of 49 classic<br />

wedding rings, covering the most<br />

popular profiles and finger sizes,<br />

from I to Z+7 plus half-sizes, and<br />

seven widths. All are guaranteed<br />

to comply with the Peter W Beck<br />

‘Original & Accurate’ finger size<br />

standards.<br />

Pink Kimberley<br />

SAMS Group Australia<br />

pinkkimberley.com.au<br />

Make gift-giving memorable with these<br />

petite trinkets for precious little ones!<br />

Playful children’s brooches are now<br />

available in 9-carat white, yellow and rose<br />

gold, with non-precious safety chains.<br />

Designs include Toby Train, Thomas Teddy,<br />

Tilly Diamond Stadium, Thomas Bluebird,<br />

and Trinity Cross brooches.<br />

With breathtaking<br />

designs and unsurpassed<br />

craftsmanship, Pink<br />

Kimberley jewellery is<br />

inspired by the remarkable<br />

nature of the Australian<br />

Outback, reminiscent<br />

of the colours of the<br />

magnificent pink sunset<br />

sky. Exquisite and one-ofa-kind,<br />

every piece is the<br />

ultimate show-stopper and<br />

the epitome of pure luxury.<br />

There’s no such thing<br />

as too much jewellery!<br />

Combining exquisite white<br />

diamonds with one of<br />

Australia’s greatest natural<br />

wonders – the Argyle pink<br />

diamond – every piece<br />

from the Unity Collection<br />

is unique and is a beautiful<br />

treasure with a touch of<br />

elegance and exclusivity.<br />

Exquisitely crafted, these stunning<br />

earrings – the Iman Diamond Drop Earrings<br />

and Salma Diamond Drop Pavé Set Earrings<br />

– evoke a Moroccan theme. Featuring<br />

pavé-set lab-grown diamonds and encased<br />

in 9-carat rose gold, they are also available in<br />

9-carat yellow and white gold.<br />

<strong>October</strong> <strong>2021</strong> | 63

Christmas Ready | <strong>2021</strong> HOLIDAY STOCK SPECIAL<br />

Qudo Germany<br />

Perfect for the summer<br />

months are these<br />

sparkling and colourful<br />

Interchangeable tops from<br />

Qudo. Qudo offers fun and<br />

collectable opportunities for<br />

customers, and the ability to<br />

personalise rings, earrings<br />

and necklaces with fresh,<br />

unique looks.<br />

qudojewellery.com.au<br />

Quinn Sterling Silver <strong>Jeweller</strong>y<br />

Sarabol Trading<br />

The best quality sterling silver jewellery on<br />

the market, Quinn Sterling Silver <strong>Jeweller</strong>y<br />

offers dress rings and earrings, necklaces,<br />

pendants and more, either plain or set with<br />

a variety of gemstones. In addition, lapis<br />

lazuli, onyx, and pearl pieces are available,<br />

in combination with gold and stainless steel.<br />

0412 286 387<br />

Sapphire Dreams<br />

SAMS Group Australia<br />

sapphiredreams.com.au<br />

Influenced by our rich<br />

Australian heritage, Sapphire<br />

Dreams pairs premium<br />

jewellery designs with<br />

Australia’s most overlooked<br />

wonder, the Australian<br />

sapphire.<br />

Salt & Pepper Diamonds<br />

Salt and pepper diamonds are mined,<br />

natural diamonds without treatment.<br />

The heavily-included nature of Salt and<br />

Pepper Diamonds means they are all<br />

unique and incomparable. They have<br />

become a popular and economical<br />

choice for Millennial engagement rings<br />

and everyday jewellery alike.<br />

saltandpepperdiamonds.com.au<br />

64 | <strong>October</strong> <strong>2021</strong>

RAS Spain<br />

Timesupply<br />

Added to the very popular<br />

Gingko Collection from RAS<br />

Spain is this handmade filigree<br />

wide cuff bangle. Golden<br />

Gingko leaves wrap around the<br />

wrist in this fine elegant design.<br />

timesupply.com.au<br />

RR Diamonds<br />

As the renowned Argyle Pink Diamonds<br />

Tender is unveiled for the final<br />

time in <strong>2021</strong>, RR Diamonds revisits<br />

the exquisite gems from our most<br />

successful Tender in 2018. We continue<br />

to stock a carefully curated inventory of<br />

the world’s most coveted pink diamonds<br />

as well as blues.<br />

02 9235 1799<br />

Sapphire Dreams sapphires come<br />

in a plethora of colours, from ravishing<br />

teals and gorgeous greens to the trendy<br />

parti-colour. Every sapphire featured<br />

in our 18-carat gold designs features a<br />

laser-inscribed girdle and comes with a<br />

Sapphire Dreams certificate. Stunning<br />

designs with established provenance.<br />

Stones & Silver<br />

A modern spin on the timeless hoop<br />

earring, these stunning 925 sterling silver<br />

hoop stud earrings are available with<br />

beautiful freshwater pearls, larimar and<br />

faceted amethyst, lapis lazuli, and onyx.<br />

stonesandsilver.com.au<br />

<strong>October</strong> <strong>2021</strong> | 65

Christmas Ready | <strong>2021</strong> HOLIDAY STOCK SPECIAL<br />

Swarovski<br />

Duraflex Group Australia<br />

Swarovski's legacy of craftsmanship<br />

and technical innovation continues with<br />

Swarovski Created Diamonds. Just as a<br />

greenhouse-grown orchid is as beautiful as<br />

one found in nature, so too are Swarovski<br />

Created Diamonds.<br />

dgau.com.au/swarovski-created-diamonds<br />

The Amber Centre<br />

Part of The Amber Centre's<br />

fresh collection, the<br />

Carousel Earrings and<br />

Rings featuring multicoloured<br />

genuine Baltic<br />

amber, set in sterling silver.<br />

ambercentre.com.au<br />

Troy Australia<br />

troyaustralia.com<br />

Troy Australia is a new<br />

retail support service for<br />

independent jewellery<br />

retailers who are demanding<br />

something different,<br />

modern, and forwardthinking<br />

– at a low cost.<br />

Feel and see the quality in Troy<br />

Australia's exclusive range. Made<br />

by one of the world's leading<br />

international factories to the<br />

highest standards, the jewellery<br />

is amazing – as are the margins!<br />

Tennis bracelets – from 2 carats –<br />

diamond stud story and pendants<br />

are just some of the bestsellers in<br />

this collection.<br />

Tremac<br />

Tremac has been a supplier to the global<br />

gemstone and jewellery trade for more than<br />

30 years. Tremac specialises in coloured<br />

gemstones of all varieties, from precious<br />

gemstones for jewellery production to rare<br />

collectables, as well as diamond melee.<br />

tremac.com.au<br />

66 | <strong>October</strong> <strong>2021</strong>

The Battery Man<br />

Watch repair Christmas gifts<br />

for your own workshop! This<br />

24-piece set of Delrin dies<br />

comes from Beco Technic's<br />

Master Tool Selection. Great<br />

for large or small, oval and<br />

other shape watch cases up<br />

to 59mm, they come stored<br />

in a sturdy, durable case.<br />

thebatteryman.com.au<br />

Thomas Sabo<br />

Duraflex Group Australia<br />

The new Sterling Silver <strong>Jeweller</strong>y<br />

collection by Thomas Sabo features classic<br />

silhouettes, vintage-style aesthetics,<br />

archive updates and sparkling white<br />

gemstones. Plus, personalise your jewellery<br />

with engravable pendants and charms.<br />

thomassabo.com.au<br />

Timex<br />

Designa Accessories<br />

Timex’s Q Falcon Eye adds two-tone refinement to the Q<br />

Timex series. Reissued for today, Timex have recreated<br />

every detail – a 1970s period-correct woven stainless-steel<br />

bracelet 38mm case, luminescent paint and a striated green<br />

dial. The result is a contemporary watch retaining every<br />

ounce of soul and character from the era that inspired it.<br />

designaaccessories.com.au<br />

With a subscription model,<br />

Troy Australia offers the<br />

solution for a ready-to-go,<br />

competitive range that meets<br />

all the price-points your<br />

business requires.<br />

In addition to premium<br />

jewellery, Troy Australia<br />

offers a one-stop-shop for<br />

help, advice and assistance<br />

to grow your business with<br />

modern, forward-thinking<br />

advice and insights.<br />

Partner with Troy and enjoy<br />

exclusive access to beautiful<br />

boutique collections including our<br />

Harmony Created Diamond range,<br />

curated specifically for our market.<br />

Troy Australia has one of the<br />

most experienced retailers in the<br />

industry at the helm. Collaborate<br />

with us and enjoy unrivalled<br />

insight into the Australian and<br />

New Zealand market. Grow and<br />

flourish with Troy by your side.<br />

<strong>October</strong> <strong>2021</strong> | 67

Christmas Ready | <strong>2021</strong> HOLIDAY STOCK SPECIAL<br />

UNOde50 Spain<br />

Timesupply<br />

The new Ikon Collection celebrates<br />

everyday objects, embracing the<br />

simplicity of form and function. Bracelets,<br />

necklaces, earrings, and rings combine<br />

conventionality with a bold and rebellious<br />

touch, in a quirky and unique design<br />

typical of the iconic UNOde50 style.<br />

Handmade in Spain.<br />

unode50.com.au<br />

TW Steel<br />

Duraflex Group Australia<br />

The new Red Bull Ampol<br />

Racing watch collection from<br />

TW Steel celebrates one of<br />

the most prolific teams in<br />

motorsport. Powered by Swissmade<br />

movements, the three<br />

performance timepieces are<br />

built with racing in mind and<br />

heart, and Red Bull's iconic<br />

red, blue, yellow and silver<br />

colours and team logo<br />

engraved on the case.<br />

twsteel.com.au<br />




World Shiner<br />

Alongside its extensive collection of white,<br />

pink, yellow, and champagne diamonds,<br />

World Shiner proudly introduces a new<br />

range of Italian-made jewellery with<br />

old-cut diamonds. The collection includes<br />

rings, earrings and pendants.<br />

worldshiner.com<br />



Glues<br />

(07) 3876 7481<br />

sales@labanda.com.au<br />

FAX: (07) 3368 3100<br />


<strong>2021</strong> HOLIDAY STOCK SPECIAL | Christmas Ready<br />

Wolf 1834<br />

Duraflex Group Australia<br />

The British Racing Green Collection by<br />

WOLF 1834 is a truly English collection of<br />

watch winders, boxes and watch rolls. It<br />

is ideal for passionate watch collectors,<br />

travellers, and for safekeeping of your<br />

treasured timepieces.<br />

dgau.com.au/wolf<br />

Wolski's<br />

0411 331 777<br />

Direct suppliers of natural<br />

colour pink and blue Argyle<br />

diamonds. Single stones and<br />

pairs/matched sets are available.<br />

Argyle Certificates are provided<br />

for larger stones.<br />

Direct suppliers<br />

of natural<br />

gemstones,<br />

including sapphire,<br />

ruby, emerald,<br />

aquamarine,<br />

peridot, tanzanite,<br />

tourmaline, topaz,<br />

amethyst, citrine,<br />

rubellite, garnet,<br />

and more.<br />

Worth & Douglas<br />

These on-trend new designs feature current<br />

fashion must-haves in the sparkling world<br />

of coloured gemstones, highlighted with<br />

fancy cuts including radiant, cushion, and<br />

pear shape. Pictured here set with London<br />

blue topaz, blue topaz, and garnet, with<br />

diamonds. Available in most metal alloys<br />

and with many other gemstones.<br />

wdrings.com.au<br />

ZETAGS<br />

ZETAGS has released its new CloudTT<br />

barcode software. For the first time, users<br />

can print tags straight from Google Chrome<br />

on both Windows and Mac computers. The<br />

Lite version is free for ZETAGS customers<br />

with a data-aware Pro version currently in<br />

beta testing.<br />

zetags.com<br />

<strong>October</strong> <strong>2021</strong> | 69


Local <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Brands<br />

ARABELLA RODEN explores the appeal of Australia and New Zealand’s<br />

local jewellery brands and how they can improve retailers’ stock mix.<br />

KAGI CAMPAIGN <strong>2021</strong>

LOCAL JEWELLERY BRANDS | Homegrown Heroes<br />

L to R: Sapphire Dreams; Kagi; Paterson Fine <strong>Jeweller</strong>y<br />

I<br />

n an increasingly globalised world, it can be<br />

easy to lose sight of the unique characteristics<br />

that make local brands special – yet special<br />

they certainly are.<br />

Uniquely developed for the Australian and New Zealand<br />

markets, ‘homegrown’ brands share a deep knowledge and<br />

understanding of local consumers as well as a pride and<br />

passion for supporting retailers.<br />

Across the jewellery industry, many of these brands are part<br />

of independent family-operated businesses – another value<br />

they have in common with jewellery retail.<br />

SAMS Group Australia CEO Steve Der Bedrossian tells<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong>, “SAMS Group Australia represents the homegrown<br />

Australian jewellery and watch brands, such as Classique,<br />

Pink Kimberley and Sapphire Dreams.<br />

"Founded in 1967 as a family business, Classique Watches<br />

had been servicing the Australian watch industry for more<br />

than 50 years.<br />

"Our luxury jewellery brands Pink Kimberley and Blush Pink<br />

had been operating for about 15 years. Sapphire Dreams is<br />

our newly launched brand that came to life in <strong>2021</strong>,” he says.<br />

Indelible Australian touches are evident throughout the<br />

brands, with Der Bedrossian noting, “The identity of our<br />

brand revolves around working with Australian gemstones.<br />

The Australian way is also reflected in our brand marketing<br />

and company values as all our products are ethically and<br />

responsibly sourced.”<br />

Paterson Fine <strong>Jeweller</strong>y (PFJ) is another Aussie brand with a<br />

long history.<br />

“Paterson Fine <strong>Jeweller</strong>y was originally established in 1935<br />

and operated locally around Melbourne,” says managing<br />

director David Paterson, grandson of founder Keith Paterson.<br />

“The business expanded nationally in 1959 when Keith took<br />

the ‘Little Gypsy’ range of earrings to wholesalers around<br />

Australia, and shortly afterwards we expanded internationally<br />

into the New Zealand market."<br />

Today, PFJ manufactures several registered brands including<br />

My Little Angel, Firegem Australian Opal, and Babylinks.<br />

Opal Minded<br />

Pink Kimberley<br />

Ikecho Australia<br />

“As an Australian-owned business, we pride ourselves<br />

on our customer service, quality, and authenticity of our<br />

products. Customer satisfaction and quality workmanship<br />

are at the heart of our business philosophy and underpin<br />

our reputation in the industry,” Paterson says.<br />

That commitment to customer satisfaction and quality is<br />

evident in modern jewellery brands too, such as Harper<br />

& Rowe – also a family business – which was established<br />

in South Australia in 2010 and now counts retail stockists<br />

across Australia and New Zealand.<br />

Uniquely developed for the<br />

Australian and New Zealand<br />

markets, ‘homegrown’ brands<br />

share a deep knowledge and<br />

understanding of local consumers<br />

as well as a pride and passion for<br />

supporting retailers"<br />

“As a family business, we take pride in the knowledge that<br />

our company has developed locally and organically,” says<br />

director Virginia Moody.<br />

“Our jewellery is designed in our workshop in South<br />

Australia, with many of our pieces also handmade there.<br />

We try to source local components and materials wherever<br />

possible for our products, and love working with our<br />

amazing Australian suppliers.”<br />

Moody adds, “Being a local company means we can work<br />

closely with our retailers to develop and supply designs that<br />

work best in their markets, and many of our pieces have<br />

come to life from the close relationships we have developed<br />

with our customers.<br />

“To us, being homegrown not only means creating a<br />

beautiful local product that sells well in the Australasian<br />

market, but also developing close ties with many small<br />

local businesses.”<br />

Christine Harold, director of Melbourne brand Moore<br />

Jewels, which launched in 2007, echoes that sentiment.<br />

<strong>October</strong> 2020 <strong>2021</strong> | 71

Homegrown Heroes | LOCAL JEWELLERY BRANDS<br />

Karen Walker<br />

Ikecho Australia<br />

Sapphire Dreams<br />

“Being a local brand, we are able to respond<br />

to our customers’ needs quickly,” she<br />

tells <strong>Jeweller</strong>.<br />

“We are completely independent and are<br />

therefore able to treat any issues that<br />

may arise quickly, and always to our<br />

customers’ satisfaction.<br />

"We work together with our manufacturers<br />

to produce the best quality product for our<br />

local market.”<br />

Those same qualities are abundantly evident in<br />

brands founded ‘across the ditch’.<br />

“New Zealand is small and our economy is<br />

made up of approximately 85 per cent small<br />

and medium enterprises (SMEs); many are like<br />

us – family owned and operated,” says Helen<br />

Thompson-Carter, director of Fabuleux Vous,<br />

which was founded in 2014.<br />

“Having exported for more than 30 years across<br />

many industry sectors, the one thing I can<br />

honestly say is that New Zealand is proud of its<br />

people, its product and its presentation to the<br />

world,” she adds.<br />

“We have a reputation globally for being a leader<br />

and having products that the world simply wants.<br />

"There is not only a strong sense of pride, there<br />

is a camaraderie between business owners and<br />

a very special kind of admiration and support<br />

for each other.”<br />

Nick Hoogwerf, brand manager of New Zealandfounded<br />

interchangeable jewellery brand Kagi,<br />

adds, “Stocking home-grown brands is vital to<br />

supporting local businesses.<br />

"Customers love and appreciate a homegrown<br />

success story and are happy to<br />

support a brand that offers good quality,<br />

affordability as well as the ability to mix and<br />

match looks for any occasion.”<br />

Adapting to change<br />

Perhaps the most important quality in a<br />

business – particularly given the rapid pace of<br />

change in the retail environment – is the owner’s<br />

ability to adapt quickly, shifting gears to meet<br />

challenges and increasingly high expectations<br />

of customers.<br />

It’s a quality that is embedded in the mentality of<br />

New Zealanders, according to Thompson-Carter.<br />

“Kiwis are well known globally for their<br />

innovation, ability to adapt to change and with a<br />

‘number-eight wire’ [resourceful and inventive]<br />

approach to things.<br />

Perhaps the most important<br />

quality in a business –<br />

particularly given the rapid<br />

pace of change in the retail<br />

environment – is the owner’s<br />

ability to adapt quickly"<br />

"We are proud to be designing and producing<br />

beautiful world class products from this little<br />

corner of the world,” she says.<br />

Worth & Douglas has manufactured its<br />

namesake brand of wedding rings since<br />

1953, and also manufactures jewellery<br />

brands Karen Walker, Lord Of The Rings,<br />

and ZiRO.<br />

“Being local allows us to offer flexibility in<br />

design, take orders in a friendly way, and deliver<br />

quality products in a timely manner,” says<br />

business development manager Chris Worth.<br />

In practical terms, Paul Hicks, director of<br />

Ellani Collections – which has been established<br />

in both the Australian and New Zealand<br />

markets since 2008 – says local brands have<br />

an advantage when it comes to serving evolving<br />

consumer tastes.<br />

“Being local allows you to react quickly to<br />

changing consumer demand for designs,<br />

materials and price points,” he explains.<br />

“This allows the retailers representing your<br />

brand to be stocking a range with proven sales<br />

results and better retail margins.”<br />

Harold has a similar perspective: “One of the<br />

benefits to the retailers is that most local<br />

suppliers carry stock – we certainly do.<br />

"We know the local market and, after working<br />

in the industry for more than 40 years, I’m very<br />

cognisant of regional variance and try to cater<br />

for most areas.”<br />

Indeed, while the Australian and New Zealand<br />

market shares some similarities with Europe,<br />

the US and the UK, homegrown brands have an<br />

intimate knowledge of local consumer tastes<br />

and shopping behaviours, as well as a natural<br />

affinity for relevant designs and materials.<br />

“Over the past 50-plus years, we have worked<br />

with many established Australian retailers,<br />

maintaining strong connections with Australian<br />

businesses and our local community,” says Der<br />

Bedrossian, noting that SAMS Group’s brands<br />

celebrate the nation’s unique natural history.<br />

“In Australia, we have so many spectacular<br />

natural gemstones that we use to create our<br />

jewellery and watch designs.<br />

72 | <strong>October</strong> <strong>2021</strong>

Homegrown brands<br />

also share a geographic<br />

advantage, being located<br />

in similar time zones to<br />

their retail stockists and<br />

being able to tailor stock<br />

to local needs"<br />

Ikecho Australia<br />

"For instance, we were the first to create a single-slice Australian<br />

opal dial for our watches – which remains the unique hallmark of<br />

Classique to this day,” he explains.<br />

Adds Thompson-Carter, “Local people love a local story to be<br />

proud of! <strong>Jeweller</strong>y can so easily tell a life story, and sometimes<br />

that starts from where the jewellery came from and the inspiration<br />

behind the design.”<br />

Homegrown brands also share a geographic advantage, being<br />

located in similar time zones to their retail stockists and being able<br />

to tailor stock to local needs.<br />

Explains Moody, “Important economic and social influences are at<br />

play – things like economy of shipping, fast and efficient supply of<br />

stock, dealing in the same language and currency, combined with<br />

the ability to make special orders, including bespoke designs, also<br />

influences buying decisions.”<br />

She adds that the importance of doing business with people they<br />

“know and enjoy dealing with, and who understand their business<br />

and customer base” cannot be underestimated by retailers.<br />

Paterson emphasises the customer service advantage enjoyed<br />

by retailers who stock a mix that includes Australian and New<br />

Zealand brands: “The biggest benefits are retailers can get realtime<br />

answers on stock availability, place custom orders with a fast<br />

turnaround, and can access local repairs and quick returns.<br />

“Plus, we have state-based agents who come in-store to showcase<br />

new arrivals and can also take back stock that hasn’t worked.”<br />

Indeed, New Zealand brand Kagi recently switched to a new<br />

Australian-based distributor, Pride Brands, in order to better serve<br />

its retailer base.<br />

“We can now offer super fast delivery and support to retailers<br />

of our 300-piece range as a result of our partnership with Pride<br />

Brands in Australia,” says Hoogwerf.<br />

“We are looking forward to Australians again being able to<br />

wear and love our product through the convenience of a local<br />

distributor. We have a great brand and history in both the New<br />

Zealand and Australian markets and now is the time to build<br />

upon this solid foundation.”

Homegrown Heroes | LOCAL JEWELLERY BRANDS<br />

Couture Kingdom<br />

Moore Jewels<br />

Fabuleux Vous<br />

Worth & Douglas<br />

Gerrim<br />

While many overseas brands have found<br />

popularity in the Australian and New Zealand<br />

markets and developed loyal followings,<br />

others have faltered, leaving retailers and<br />

consumers disappointed.<br />

Says Hicks, “Sometimes what is selling in<br />

European markets does not resonate with our<br />

consumer base and distributors in our region<br />

– followed by the retailer – have little to no<br />

input in the designs for new release products,<br />

due to the size of our market in comparison<br />

to the rest of the world.”<br />

Pandemic challenges<br />

With fewer supply chain disruptions and close<br />

existing relationships with retailers, homegrown<br />

brands were able to communicate and cater to<br />

their stockists' needs throughout the past 18<br />

months, while the COVID-19 pandemic raged.<br />

“We are manufacturers as well as wholesalers.<br />

As a manufacturer, we have the benefit of being<br />

able to scale-up or scale-down the business<br />

depending on demand,” Paterson explains.<br />

“Initially, we scaled back production dramatically,<br />

but once we realised the demand for jewellery<br />

was rising and retailers were struggling to attain<br />

stock from overseas, we were able to scale-up to<br />

full capacity in the factory.”<br />

At Worth & Douglas, “It’s been important to us to<br />

remain fresh and continue creating and designing<br />

so we have released new designs and collections<br />

in the past 18 months,” says Worth.<br />

“During lockdowns, we have continued to<br />

serve by offering marketing support, online<br />

assets, answer quotes and general enquiries,<br />

and just be there to help where we can to<br />

navigate these unchartered territories together<br />

with our customers.”<br />

In New Zealand, Fabuleux Vous’ team “got<br />

up, got dressed and got on with it,” says<br />

Thompson-Carter.<br />

“COVID-19 gave a new appreciation to being<br />

‘local’,” she continues.<br />

“We reached out to as many of our retailer<br />

partners as we could across Australia and<br />

New Zealand and kept in touch.<br />

With fewer supply chain<br />

disruptions and close<br />

existing relationships with<br />

retailers, homegrown brands<br />

were able to communicate<br />

and cater to their stockists'<br />

needs throughout the<br />

past 18 months"<br />

"We supported them with payment plans so that<br />

they still had access to product, ramped up our<br />

digital presence – both business-to-business and<br />

business-to-consumer – and we made sure our<br />

retailers had imagery and material to ramp up<br />

their digital performance.”<br />

Thompson-Carter added, “We also brought<br />

fresh on-trend products to market and we learnt<br />

more than anything that cash reserves, cash<br />

management and conservative business thinking<br />

was the saviour.”<br />

A similar strategy was employed at Harper<br />

& Rowe, which Moody describes as a “hands-on”<br />

business that “rolled with the punches” during<br />

the pandemic.<br />

“Over the years we have built excellent<br />

relationships with our customers which has held<br />

us in good stead during these turbulent times,”<br />

she explains.<br />

“Like many other Australian small businesses,<br />

we needed to think outside of the square – not<br />

just working differently, but working smarter.<br />

With the explosion in online shopping and the<br />

emergence of the ‘lockdown look,’ we launched<br />

our At Home Collection.<br />

“The designs in this collection included pieces<br />

which could be worn to complement a casual<br />

look, or to elevate a professional look while<br />

attending online meetings.<br />

“We also focused on designing pieces which<br />

evoked sentimental feelings of love and affection,<br />

for people to send to family members living in<br />

other places.<br />

"When individuals cannot see friends and family<br />

in person, they want to be able to send them<br />

personal gifts which express their love.”<br />

At Kagi, Hoogwerf notes, “The lockdowns<br />

have given our customers time to build<br />

upon their collection and be more creative in<br />

crafting their daily look. It’s been great to see<br />

so many of our customers find unique ways<br />

daily to bring out their personality with our<br />

interchangeable pieces.”<br />

He adds, “We’ve seen a surge in demand<br />

particularly for our statement earrings –<br />

everybody is looking to brighten up their look<br />

for Zoom calls.”<br />

Like retailers, e-commerce was a high priority<br />

for homegrown brands.<br />

“The emergence of COVID-19 was not a time<br />

to panic – it was a time to refocus our energies<br />

and to pinpoint what we perceived our rapidly<br />

74 | <strong>October</strong> <strong>2021</strong>

IP907-PRG-EDI-P<br />




IP4060N-RGP<br />

There is no doubt the ongoing COVID-19 pandemic has influenced<br />

consumer tastes and behaviour to a large degree – and to the<br />

advantage of homegrown brands.<br />

“There is a new passion to shop local,” confirms Chris Worth,<br />

business development manager at Worth & Douglas.<br />

“While many customers are unable to travel overseas due to border<br />

restrictions, more are now shopping locally and choose to recognise<br />

and support local manufacturers and retailers. Consumers are also<br />

looking for bespoke pieces and want them now, without having the<br />

long wait to have it made off-shore.”<br />

IP779-ERG-EDI-P<br />

Virginia Moody, director Harper & Rowe, observes, “Closed borders<br />

have meant that, as a nation, we are now reflecting inwards a lot more.<br />

“Australian brand sentiment is very high at present, as is social<br />

conscience and awareness of sustainability. Australians now recognise<br />

the importance of ensuring our industries at home are supported.<br />

“So, it appears that COVID-19 has expanded people’s mindsets and<br />

that ‘stocking local’ is an important part of ensuring this mindset<br />

endures when borders reopen.”<br />

Helen Thompson-Carter, director Fabuleux Vous, says local brands<br />

offer a “point of difference” for shoppers.<br />

“There is a famous New Zealand TV fisherman who always said, ‘Fish<br />

with your feet first’ – meaning have a look around the waters that<br />

surround your feet before you look elsewhere. I love this quote and<br />

I think it’s right on the button for where we are at.”<br />

Indeed the CommBank Consumer Insights Report, published in May<br />

<strong>2021</strong>, noted that “a majority of consumers in eight of the 10 retail<br />

categories covered, and half the patrons of personal care service<br />

providers, say that since the pandemic, it has become more important<br />

to them to have options to buy products manufactured in Australia.”<br />

IP1143-R9R-EDI-P<br />

The report’s authors also observed, “Another apparent change in<br />

priorities uncovered by the research is the desire to support Australian<br />

online retailers and manufacturers, as well as local suburban<br />

shopping centres and neighbourhood stores.”<br />

And while COVID-19 may have accelerated the online shopping trend,<br />

analysis by retail media firm Shopper recently found 36 per cent of<br />

Australians spend 80 per cent or more of their discretionary income<br />

within 5km of their home.<br />

For many of today’s consumers, it seems home is where the heart<br />

– and the wallet – is.<br />

LUXURY pearl AND opal JEWELLERY<br />

+61 2 9266 0636<br />

enquiries@ikecho.com.au www.ikecho.com.au

Homegrown Heroes | LOCAL JEWELLERY BRANDS<br />

Kagi<br />

Paterson Fine <strong>Jeweller</strong>y<br />

Worth & Douglas<br />

Harper & Rowe<br />

Georgini<br />

Steve Der<br />

Bedrossian<br />

SAMS Group<br />

Australia<br />

David Paterson<br />

Paterson Fine<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong>y<br />

Chris Worth-<br />

Worth & Douglas<br />

“Over the past<br />

50-plus years, we have<br />

worked with many<br />

established Australian<br />

retailers, maintaining<br />

strong connections<br />

with Australian<br />

businesses and our<br />

local community.”<br />

“As an Australianowned<br />

business,<br />

we pride ourselves<br />

on our customer<br />

service, quality, and<br />

authenticity of our<br />

products. Customer<br />

satisfaction and quality<br />

workmanship are at the<br />

heart of our business."<br />

"During lockdowns, we<br />

have continued to serve<br />

by offering marketing<br />

support, online assets,<br />

answer quotes and general<br />

enquiries, and just be<br />

there to help where we<br />

can to navigate these<br />

unchartered territories<br />

together with our<br />

customers."<br />

changing marketplace was going to be.<br />

"The first thing we did was to put into place the<br />

rebuilding of our website to better showcase<br />

and streamline our jewellery collections and<br />

individual designs,” says Moody.<br />

SAMS Group Australia’s digital infrastructure –<br />

already in place pre-pandemic – proved a boon<br />

for the company, according to Der Bedrossian.<br />

“Frequent interstate travel and remote work had<br />

always been a big part of the job, which enabled<br />

us to be digitally prepared many years before the<br />

pandemic happened,” he explains.<br />

“The functionality of our systems – with<br />

the diversity and flexibility of the working<br />

arrangements we have in place – ensured a<br />

smooth transition for us to ‘work from home’.”<br />

He adds, “Once the pandemic hit, we were ready<br />

to service the public with our online presence,<br />

especially with the ‘Click and collect from your<br />

local stockist’ function.<br />

“I’ve always been a big believer in investing into<br />

technology. Even though at the time I did not see<br />

the return on this investment, it prepared me to<br />

face the challenges of the pandemic before it<br />

even began.”<br />

Similarly, PFJ made investments into<br />

e-commerce “long before the pandemic”, and is<br />

in the process of launching a new and improved<br />

online store.<br />

With many retailers unable to meet with<br />

sales agents, the business also introduced a<br />

consignment box service for Australian and New<br />

Zealand customers, with Paterson explaining,<br />

“It’s a contactless and COVID-safe delivery to<br />

their door. Our consignment boxes contain a<br />

selection of our latest arrivals and a variety of<br />

stock that we can tailor to request.<br />

“Upon delivery, retailers can review and keep the<br />

jewellery pieces they wish to stock. We include<br />

a free return freight satchel should they wish to<br />

return any items to us,” he adds.<br />

With NSW, Victoria, the ACT, and Auckland<br />

beset by further extended lockdowns in <strong>2021</strong>,<br />

homegrown brands have another benefit –<br />

an ability to relate to the challenges faced by<br />

local retailers.<br />

With NSW, Victoria, the<br />

ACT, and Auckland beset<br />

by further extended<br />

lockdowns in <strong>2021</strong>,<br />

homegrown brands have<br />

another benefit – an ability<br />

to relate to the challenges<br />

faced by local retailers"<br />

“Boy, it’s certainly been tough,” says Harold.<br />

“Being based in metropolitan Melbourne,<br />

we’ve had over 230 days in lockdown.<br />

"We don’t sell to the public and are, therefore,<br />

reliant on retailers exclusively for sales and it’s<br />

been a very rough period as our lovely customers<br />

are also trying to cope with a greatly-reduced<br />

cashflow, furloughed staff and ongoing overheads<br />

and costs to their businesses.”<br />

She adds, “Selling trips have had to be cancelled<br />

suddenly due to different states or regions being<br />

locked down, so we haven’t seen some of our<br />

customers for over a year and the states that have<br />

fared better with COVID-19 cases have had very<br />

patchy tourist numbers, resulting in less buying<br />

flow through retail.”<br />

76 | <strong>October</strong> <strong>2021</strong>

Gerrim<br />


Key Points<br />

Market<br />

insights<br />

Homegrown<br />

brands have<br />

an intimate<br />

knowledge of<br />

local consumers<br />

and trends,<br />

which ensures<br />

the product mix<br />

remains relevant<br />

Personal<br />

service<br />

Many<br />

homegrown<br />

brands are<br />

backed by<br />

family-operated<br />

businesses with<br />

a hands-on<br />

approach<br />

Local supply<br />

chain<br />

An absence of<br />

geographic,<br />

linguistic,<br />

freight, and<br />

currency<br />

limitations<br />

makes doing<br />

business simple<br />

Ellani’s Hicks has also observed the uneven<br />

nature of the ‘pandemic effect’, telling <strong>Jeweller</strong>,<br />

“There are currently challenges for retailers in<br />

some states with COVID-19 restrictions. We are<br />

seeing states that do not have operating restrictions<br />

having strong demand.”<br />

Like many in the jewellery industry, Hicks is<br />

optimistic. “With higher vaccination rates in the<br />

coming months we should see less operating<br />

restrictions and if the demand in the run towards<br />

Christmas this year is anything like last year we will<br />

see incredibly good results,” he says.<br />

This assertion is supported by a recent survey<br />

of 3,000 local consumers conducted by the<br />

Australian Retailers Association (ARA) in<br />

conjunction with market research firm Roy Morgan.<br />

The survey found that gift buyers would spend<br />

an average of $726 each, with 79 per cent of<br />

respondents saying they would spend the same or<br />

more than they did last year.<br />

Economists have also predicted a wave of ‘revenge<br />

spending’, similar to the post-lockdown spending<br />

bumps observed in 2020.<br />

Remarking on the survey’s results, Paul Zahra,<br />

CEO of the ARA, said, “The past few months have<br />

been a uniquely challenging time for most retailers,<br />

in particular small businesses navigating extended<br />

state-imposed lockdowns and restrictions that have<br />

limited their ability to trade.<br />

“Despite this uncertainty, the good news is that<br />

consumer sentiment is upbeat for Christmas<br />

and retailers can look forward to healthy trading<br />

conditions over the busy festive season."<br />

With a bumper season hopefully just around the<br />

corner, jewellery retailers should consider the<br />

benefits of adding homegrown brands to their<br />

product mix – both for the holidays, and beyond.<br />

Bloom<br />


This collection is truly a wonder: every piece is a work<br />

of art, a floral-inspired design with a breathtaking,<br />

gorgeous arrangement of Argyle pink diamonds.<br />

The blend of pink, white and gold tones is simply<br />

phenomenal. Reminiscent of Australian pink magnolias,<br />

this collection captures the moment when a flower<br />

blossoms in real time for it to be preserved for eternity.<br />

PinkKimberley.com.au<br />

E pink@samsgroup.com.au W samsgroup.com.au P 02 9290 2199


Strategy<br />

When less is more: The essentials of<br />

customer segmentation<br />

Attracting more customers guarantees higher profits – or does it? DENYSE DRUMMOND-DUNN<br />

explains how selling more to fewer people can be a more successful strategy.<br />

Businesses often make the mistake of<br />

trying to sell to everyone – but why exactly<br />

is this a mistake?<br />

The answer is if you try to please everyone,<br />

you end up pleasing no-one.<br />

Your business needs to appeal to a group of<br />

customers who are looking for the solution<br />

your products offer.<br />

Where to start<br />

When deciding which consumers to target,<br />

conduct an analysis; this can be as simple<br />

as identifying target markets through<br />

observation – which consumers already<br />

purchase your products?<br />

Is it young men, older housewives, or<br />

mothers of large families, for example?<br />

Providing a detailed description of the target<br />

customers makes them easier to engage<br />

because your advertising messages can<br />

then ‘speak their language’.<br />

Types of segmentation<br />

You can use demographics to segment<br />

all your category users, but it's not very<br />

distinctive, nor competitive.<br />

This means that you need to make a<br />

choice about who to target among all the<br />

consumers in your relevant category.<br />

Of course, this choice implies that you<br />

will have to ignore some consumers that<br />

you could potentially attract, which feels<br />

counter-intuitive.<br />

Surely, you should try to attract the largest<br />

number of consumers possible?<br />

This choice certainly worries many<br />

marketers, yet it’s the only way to sell<br />

more profitably.<br />

Segmentation – that is, narrowing your<br />

target market down to specific consumer<br />

demographics – ensures that you have the<br />

best possible chance of satisfying needs and<br />

making sales.<br />

Although this is easy to articulate, it has the<br />

weakness of not truly reflecting why those<br />

customers are choosing your brand over<br />

the competition.<br />

Therefore, it makes much more sense<br />

to move onto a more sophisticated<br />

segmentation that is informed by values<br />

and reasons for purchase, rather than<br />

simply demographics.<br />

For example, rather than young men,<br />

a sportswear business could target<br />

consumers who value a sense of freedom.<br />

Even if the majority of the consumers who<br />

fall into this segment are young men, the<br />

description is far more actionable<br />

in terms of marketing strategies and<br />

product positioning.<br />

If you have<br />

neither the<br />

product/service<br />

they are likely<br />

to buy, nor<br />

would they be<br />

profitable to<br />

you, why spend<br />

time, money and<br />

energy going<br />

after them?<br />

The sooner you can run a more complex<br />

segmentation, the better.<br />

There are five main types of segmentation:<br />

• Firmagraphics – This is the most basic<br />

and frequently-used segmentation across<br />

different product categories.<br />

An example of firmagraphics in the<br />

beverage category could be alcoholic versus<br />

non-alcoholic, still versus sparkling, or<br />

bottles versus cans.<br />

The consumers of the different types of<br />

beverages are easy to identify since the<br />

products they buy are too.<br />

However, as the grouping is based on<br />

the consumers of the different products,<br />

this is not a very useful segmentation for<br />

78 | <strong>October</strong> <strong>2021</strong>

Business Strategy<br />

marketing, since consumers can appear in<br />

more than one segment.<br />

And as you will see below, one of the criteria<br />

of a good segmentation is that customers<br />

can only appear in one segment.<br />

• Demographics – As discussed previously,<br />

demographic segmentation categorises<br />

consumers based on factors such as age,<br />

gender, ethnicity, marital status, income,<br />

education, or employment.<br />

Again, this form of segmentation is limited<br />

because consumers can be classified in<br />

more than one segment, and each segment<br />

also offers limited insights into consumers’<br />

purchasing drivers.<br />

• Geographics – Included in this section<br />

are all the possible descriptions relating to<br />

your customers’ geography – country, state,<br />

city, etcetera.<br />

This could be relevant for products suited to<br />

different types of weather or language, or<br />

for businesses expanding into new markets.<br />

However, because it groups people by<br />

geography alone, this form of segmentation<br />

assumes that all those in a group will<br />

be similar.<br />

As we all know, although there are zones in<br />

cities and countries where inhabitants are<br />

similar, it is simplistic to assume that they<br />

all behave and purchase in the same way.<br />

• Behavioural – At this level of<br />

segmentation, we look more at how<br />

customers behave, rather than simply who<br />

they are or where they live.<br />

Types of behaviour included in this<br />

segmentation could be what solution they<br />

are looking for based upon the benefits of<br />

a brand; how, when and where they buy;<br />

and where they are in terms of life-cycle or<br />

engagement with a specific brand.<br />

At this point, we group customers by what<br />

they do, so we at least know that they are<br />

behaving in a similar way.<br />

However, behavioural segmentation doesn’t<br />

tell us all the reasons these consumers<br />

behave the same way.<br />

• Psychographics – This is among the<br />

most sophisticated and complex forms<br />

of segmentation.<br />

It involves grouping consumers by their<br />

values, attitudes and opinions, interests,<br />

personality, or lifestyle, and often offers a<br />

competitive advantage as it provides deeper<br />

insights into both the way the target market<br />

purchases and why.<br />

If you do not have the time, money, or<br />

expertise to run a detailed segmentation<br />

study, you can still make an informed<br />

decision based on simple criteria.<br />

This could be based on observation, or an<br />

analysis of your customer service database.<br />

The ‘MIDAS’ touch<br />

Whatever method you use, the final groups<br />

of consumers – the ‘segments’ or ‘clusters’<br />

– need to meet the following five conditions,<br />

known by the acronym ‘MIDAS’:<br />

• Measurable – The groups need to<br />

be clearly defined and numerically<br />

quantifiable; think size, market share,<br />

or value in dollars.<br />

• Identifiable – Each segment must have a<br />

distinct profile and each customer must be<br />

attributed to only one segment.<br />

• Definable – Every cluster must be easy to<br />

describe and share with others so that you<br />

have mutual understanding of them.<br />

• Actionable – The groups must be easy to<br />

identify in order to target marketing actions<br />

and communications towards them.<br />

• Substantial – The chosen segment must<br />

be financially viable to target, which means<br />

that it should, in general, be stable or<br />

increasing in size.<br />

Good segments traditionally fulfil all five<br />

of these key conditions, however the last<br />

condition has changed slightly in recent<br />

years due to the rise of personalisation.<br />

Instead of assessing substantiality, some<br />

prefer to assess whether it is sustainable.<br />

This will depend on the category in which<br />

you operate.<br />

Taking action<br />

Once you have identified the different types<br />

of consumers, you can then decide what<br />

to do with each segment – target, convert,<br />

grow, or ignore.<br />

‘Target’ consumers are core customers;<br />

TARGET<br />


Define your<br />

clusters<br />

Use your chosen<br />

methodology to<br />

separate your<br />

customer base<br />

into groups<br />

Prioritise<br />

your<br />

resources<br />

Focus the<br />

marketing<br />

strategy<br />

and product<br />

decisions<br />

towards the<br />

most profitable<br />

and easily-won<br />

consumers<br />

Forget the<br />

rest<br />

Some<br />

consumers are<br />

simply not worth<br />

the time, energy,<br />

and money it<br />

would take to<br />

turn them into<br />

customers<br />

they are both profitable to the business and<br />

strongly attracted to the business’ products<br />

and services. Therefore, they need to be<br />

protected from competition.<br />

Meanwhile, ‘Convert’ consumers offer the<br />

most potential as new customers. They<br />

are attracted to the business’ products<br />

or services, but the ability to ‘win’ them is<br />

currently low.<br />

To turn them into customers, consider<br />

improving the product mix or marketing.<br />

‘Grow’ consumers are those that are easy<br />

to convince to purchase, but perhaps not<br />

as profitable. This might change, so it is<br />

important to review them from time-to-time.<br />

Finally, there are the ‘Ignore’ consumers. If<br />

you have neither the product/service they<br />

are likely to buy, nor would they be profitable<br />

to you, why spend time, money and energy<br />

going after them?<br />

In order to determine which group your<br />

segments fall into, I suggest using what is<br />

often referred to as the ‘Boston Matrix’.<br />

It takes the form of a scatter plot on two<br />

axes. While the criteria you use for each<br />

axis can vary, this simple analysis has the<br />

advantage of being able to be further<br />

refined over time.<br />

These criteria can be grouped into<br />

‘Attractiveness’ and ‘Ability to win’.<br />

Examples of Attractiveness include segment<br />

size, segment growth rate, segment value,<br />

competitive environment, profitability,<br />

industry structure, distribution, and pricing.<br />

Ability to win includes market share,<br />

differentiation, brand strength, distribution<br />

strength, company profitability, customer<br />

appeal, customer loyalty, or reputation.<br />

All businesses want to sell more and<br />

increase profitability, but trying to sell to<br />

everyone is unlikely to accomplish these<br />

goals. Instead, choosing the right group of<br />

customers to attract with your product or<br />

service is the essential first step.<br />


more than 30 years’ management<br />

experience. She runs C3Centricity<br />

consultancy. Visit: c3centricity.com<br />

<strong>October</strong> <strong>2021</strong> | 79


Selling<br />

Give your sales team what they need!<br />

DAVID BROCK explores the mistakes managers make when supporting<br />

sales staff – and how this can lead to wasted resources.<br />

It’s a simple yet critical point: as<br />

managers, we fail to give salespeople<br />

what they need, and as a result, adversely<br />

impact performance – or waste money,<br />

time, and resources.<br />

There are several reasons for this<br />

phenomenon:<br />

• We are more concerned about what<br />

we need from the sales team, rather than<br />

what they need<br />

• With the best intentions, managers,<br />

marketing departments, and others in an<br />

organisation give salespeople what we<br />

think they need – but too often this does<br />

not actually help them get the job done<br />

• We give them things we want them<br />

to need, but they really don’t; under<br />

this section would fall a lot of content,<br />

marketing materials, and technology.<br />

Often, these are deployed to the sales team<br />

with the mentality of, “If all the ‘cool kids’<br />

are doing this, then we should too!”<br />

• We focus on our needs, without<br />

understanding how they impact the sales<br />

team; for example, putting in place policies<br />

and procedures that make it more difficult<br />

for salespeople to get things done<br />

• We drown the sales team, giving them<br />

far more than they need – part of this is<br />

the ‘program du jour’ mentality, where all<br />

sorts of new things are added, only some of<br />

which are helpful.<br />

Sometimes, giving salespeople what they<br />

need is stopping certain procedures or<br />

policies, or taking things away that are no<br />

longer useful<br />

• Managers give the sales team<br />

something they really need, but the sales<br />

team doesn’t know they need it and so<br />

there is no increase in performance<br />

This is an example bungled ‘change<br />

management’.<br />

Identifying the true need<br />

I often see these problems arise when I<br />

start a project with a new client.<br />

Sales teams like to keep it simple – they won't use what they don't need.<br />

At the beginning, the manager will tell me<br />

all the ‘stuff’ they have in place to help<br />

the salespeople – content, training, tools,<br />

processes, procedures, programs.<br />

The list goes on, and on, and on.<br />

They are providing all the ‘right’ things,<br />

the things you hear marketing<br />

departments and sales managers talk<br />

about as ‘best practice’.<br />

Then I talk to the sales team, watching how<br />

they work and what they do. In particular,<br />

I pay attention to top performers.<br />

Without fail, they’ve simplified the process<br />

phenomenally; they are doing all the<br />

things they should be, they are executing<br />

tasks in a disciplined way, and they keep<br />

going back to the few things they know<br />

work and are helpful.<br />

They ignore everything else.<br />

Next, I look at utilisation. What content<br />

is the sales team actually using? What<br />

training do they choose? Which tools<br />

are they using and how well are they<br />

using them?<br />

Inevitably, I find huge amounts of ‘stuff’<br />

that the sales team simply doesn't use.<br />

The 'sales technology stack' is one of my<br />

favourites. Organisations tend to brag<br />

about the software tools they have in place;<br />

the mentality is, ‘More equals better’ or the<br />

What content<br />

is the sales<br />

team actually<br />

using? What<br />

training do they<br />

choose? Which<br />

tools are they<br />

using and how<br />

well are they<br />

using them?<br />

Inevitably, I find<br />

huge amounts<br />

of ‘stuff’ that<br />

the sales<br />

team simply<br />

doesn't use<br />

corporate equivalent of ‘keeping up with<br />

the Joneses’.<br />

Too often, the sales technology stack is<br />

more for everyone else than it is for the<br />

sales team; managers love reporting from<br />

customer relationship management (CRM)<br />

systems, while marketing departments<br />

love content platforms.<br />

Don’t get me wrong, I think many of these<br />

are very powerful – but imagine how<br />

things would change if we approached<br />

it differently?<br />

For example, I can’t imagine a highperforming<br />

salesperson not embracing<br />

CRM systems, like Salesforce or HubSpot,<br />

as there are so many features that improve<br />

effectiveness and efficiency.<br />

If salespeople are using these existing<br />

tools well, the business gets greater value<br />

from them.<br />

Management solutions<br />

The next element to address is coaching.<br />

By this, I mean managers and sales<br />

leaders helping the team to learn, develop<br />

new approaches and ways of thinking, and<br />

acquire new capabilities.<br />

Most managers spend less than three<br />

hours per month coaching everyone on<br />

their teams – and I suspect much of that<br />

‘coaching’ is saying, “Do this, don’t do that,<br />

tell me how it works out, send the next<br />

person in.”<br />

Instead, we must pay close attention to<br />

what our salespeople are currently doing<br />

and how they do it, consider what they<br />

might do differently, and engage them in<br />

these discussions.<br />

The reality is salespeople don’t really need<br />

that much – yet too often, we fail to give<br />

them that which they need the most!<br />

DAVID BROCK is CEO of Partners<br />

In Excellence, a global consultancy<br />

focused on helping organisations<br />

engage customers more effectively. He<br />

writes at: partnersinexcellenceblog.com<br />

80 | <strong>October</strong> <strong>2021</strong>


Management<br />

The hidden syndrome that may<br />

be costing you more than money<br />

Fatigue, exhaustion, burnout – whatever the term used to describe it, this weariness can have<br />

severe consequences for business owners, writes DAVID BROWN.<br />

I recently met a couple named Tony and<br />

Julie, who were both in their late fifties<br />

and had recently “chucked it all in” –<br />

as Tony described it – after 19 years<br />

running a manufacturing company.<br />

Tony and Julie had decided to take a full<br />

year off to travel.<br />

Their jobs had been particularly<br />

stressful, but they didn’t realise to what<br />

extent until they stopped.<br />

“The first day we drove off down the<br />

road, we were both in tears from the<br />

relief,” said Julie.<br />

Even meeting them two months into<br />

their year-long break, Tony was still<br />

struggling to sleep at night and to<br />

adjust to the change of pace of their<br />

new lifestyle.<br />

Creeping stress<br />

Tony and Julie's situation is not<br />

uncommon; many business owners<br />

undergo continuous, large-scale stress<br />

in their business – yet they are oblivious<br />

to it, as it has become the ‘new normal’.<br />

Like a frog slowly boiling in a pot, it’s<br />

not until they are able to step back<br />

that they understand the toll that<br />

long hours and difficult decisions<br />

are taking on both their business<br />

and their health.<br />

It’s a syndrome not unknown to runners,<br />

many of whom report that they can keep<br />

running for long periods of time without<br />

feeling anything, then suddenly find their<br />

legs ‘crumble’ with pain and fatigue as<br />

soon as they stop.<br />

This is part of the body’s natural<br />

mechanism when under stress,<br />

which is to concentrate all resources<br />

into one area in order to meet and<br />

mitigate a threat.<br />

It allows us to summon the energy<br />

required to ward off a challenge, then<br />

focus on our recovery afterwards when<br />

the threat has gone.<br />

However, most people don’t reach the<br />

point of recovery, unfortunately choosing<br />

Relaxation is not only good for health, but also improves productivity.<br />

instead to continue in a permanent<br />

battle – much like a running race that<br />

never ends.<br />

Building pressure<br />

Although not as immediately life<br />

threatening, this has often been<br />

compared to battle fatigue.<br />

During World War II, more than<br />

500,000 soldiers were estimated to<br />

have been lost to fatigue.<br />

Furthermore, some 40 per cent of<br />

medical discharges from the armed<br />

forces were due to psychiatric reasons<br />

during this time – much of it attributed to<br />

the high level of stress tolerated for days<br />

on end with no respite.<br />

To a lesser degree, the business<br />

environment shares some of these<br />

stress points.<br />

Although no-one is holding a gun to a<br />

business owner’s head, many feel a<br />

constant financial threat hanging over<br />

them like a Sword of Damocles, ready to<br />

fall at any time.<br />

This, combined with the stress of human<br />

interaction and conflict from staff or<br />

customers, plus the pressure of selfimposed<br />

expectations, can create a<br />

bubbling sense of anxiety or even panic.<br />

At breaking point<br />

The surest way to relieve this pressure<br />

is to take regular time to recharge.<br />

Although<br />

no-one is<br />

holding a gun<br />

to a business<br />

owner’s head,<br />

many feel<br />

a constant<br />

financial threat<br />

hanging over<br />

them like<br />

a Sword of<br />

Damocles,<br />

ready to fall<br />

at any time<br />

Returning to the World War II example,<br />

historical records showed that those<br />

troops who were able to enjoy four days<br />

of 'R-and-R' – rest and recreation –<br />

every two weeks were found to have a<br />

longer tolerance to fatigue, often up to<br />

400 days or longer.<br />

Meanwhile, those who were constantly<br />

exposed to the battle lines without a<br />

break would succumb far sooner, usually<br />

at around the 200–240-day mark.<br />

The real question is, when did you last<br />

take a break of any significant period<br />

of time?<br />

Being at home during a lockdown hardly<br />

counts as a rest from work, especially<br />

given the increased stress that the last<br />

18 months have provided, both physically<br />

and financially.<br />

Once borders start to open and travel<br />

becomes a realistic option again, it<br />

may be time for you to plan a sustained<br />

break; something that provides an<br />

opportunity to recharge fully.<br />

If even a few days away sees you reacting<br />

like Tony and Julie, then it’s a clear sign<br />

that your stress ‘safety valve’ is not being<br />

triggered often enough.<br />

This indicates that you need to plan<br />

breaks as a more regular part of your<br />

business routine.<br />

Decide today to plan an extended period<br />

away – one where you don’t take work<br />

with you, and where you have at least<br />

a few days of being completely out of<br />

range for email or phone calls.<br />

The reduction in your stress levels and<br />

increase in your productivity when you<br />

return just might be the best investment<br />

in your health – and business – that you<br />

could make.<br />

DAVID BROWN is co-founder<br />

and business mentor with Retail<br />

Edge Consultants. Learn more:<br />

retailedgeconsultants.com<br />

<strong>October</strong> <strong>2021</strong> | 81


Marketing & PR<br />

Repetition makes reputation:<br />

How to communicate your message effectively<br />

DONNA ST JEAN CONTI explains the complex psychology behind repetition as a<br />

marketing technique and how best to utilise it in your business.<br />

As the famous beauty entrepreneur<br />

Elizabeth Arden once said, “Repetition<br />

makes reputation and reputation<br />

makes customers.”<br />

Influencing an audience is a process that<br />

often requires repetition.<br />

One first repeats a message enough times<br />

for an audience to take notice, then again<br />

for them to make sense of it – relative to<br />

their own biases and filters – and again to<br />

inspire them to take action.<br />

How many repetitions it takes to inspire<br />

action remains debated, as a message<br />

must be repeated enough times for<br />

the target audience to notice and<br />

engage – but not so many times that<br />

it becomes annoying.<br />

One way to avoid ‘burning out’ an<br />

audience is to maintain the key message<br />

while changing its method of delivery.<br />

This is where the value of multiple<br />

marketing campaigns, based around<br />

a single or few basic themes, comes<br />

into play.<br />

The psychology of repetition<br />

Repetition is a crucial part of effectively<br />

gaining an audience’s attention, but it also<br />

has a point of diminishing returns.<br />

A 2013 study by German researchers<br />

found that there are two counteracting<br />

effects that occur when one uses repetition<br />

to persuade another.<br />

The first they described as the “truth<br />

effect”, where people find a message<br />

more credible the more they hear and<br />

see it.<br />

However, the second is a reaction in<br />

which the target audience recognises the<br />

message as an attempt to persuade them,<br />

resulting in a negative association that<br />

“reduces the participants’ trust in<br />

the source”.<br />

In summary, repeating a message<br />

can increase the trustworthiness and<br />

credibility of a product – but it can turn into<br />

a nuisance if done incorrectly.<br />

To ensure your message is heard, follow the principles of repetition.<br />

Using repetition effectively<br />

Communications strategist Adrian<br />

Dearnell has provided a few pointers<br />

for creating a memorable marketing<br />

message that isn’t annoying.<br />

While Dearnell emphasises the<br />

importance of repeating your<br />

message, he also advocates for a<br />

‘less is more’ mentality.<br />

In an article for business publication<br />

Forbes, Dearnell explains that an effective<br />

message starts with a single overriding<br />

communications objective that is<br />

supported by three key points.<br />

Simply put, the message should be<br />

defined as an overarching idea that<br />

is then elaborated upon by three<br />

underlying points.<br />

By structuring the message this way,<br />

Dearnell writes, “You can turn every<br />

difficult question into an opportunity to<br />

restate your message and come back to<br />

your point,” when presented with inquiries<br />

from journalists and potential customers.<br />

In addition to establishing a simple but<br />

substantial message, repetition is a must<br />

in an age where people are bombarded<br />

with information on a daily basis.<br />

Dearnell explains this concept succinctly,<br />

writing, “Mention nine points once, and<br />

nothing will be remembered.<br />

A message must<br />

be repeated<br />

enough times<br />

for the target<br />

audience to<br />

notice and<br />

engage – but not<br />

so many times<br />

that it becomes<br />

annoying<br />

"Mention three points three times, and one<br />

thing may be remembered.”<br />

At this point, it’s important to think about<br />

different channels for communicating the<br />

message, as this variety will help to avoid<br />

annoying your audience.<br />

Writing for small business online platform<br />

Chron, scientist and writer Lisa Magloff<br />

explains, “The idea behind repetition is<br />

that when the consumer goes to buy a<br />

particular product, the name of your brand<br />

is the first one that comes to mind.<br />

“Another way to use repetition is to place<br />

the product or brand in as many places<br />

as possible – for example, print ads in<br />

newspapers and magazines, television ads,<br />

radio ads and [utilising] product placement<br />

on television shows or in movies.”<br />

When these factors are considered,<br />

the result is a message that is<br />

memorable, repeatable, and<br />

unwavering when questioned.<br />

Concluding thoughts<br />

Influencing an audience in an age of<br />

‘information inundation’ is a process<br />

that will only get more difficult as<br />

technology advances.<br />

Yet, with a message that is simple,<br />

supported by smaller points, and<br />

repeated many times in various<br />

ways, one can effectively reach the<br />

minds of consumers.<br />

Most importantly, the varied repetition<br />

of your message will ensure that the<br />

target remembers it as a credible and<br />

trustworthy product – rather than a<br />

blatant attempt to persuade them.<br />

DONNA ST JEAN CONTI is president<br />

of St. Conti Communications, an<br />

award-winning full-service marketing<br />

communications agency specialising<br />

in public relations, social media,<br />

and writing support. Visit:<br />

stconticommunications.com<br />

82 | <strong>October</strong> <strong>2021</strong>


Logged On<br />

Five reasons why your SEO strategy<br />

isn’t producing results<br />

GARRY GRANT identifies the most common reasons your business’ website is<br />

falling short of expectations on Google, despite your best efforts.<br />

Search engine optimisation (SEO) is a<br />

good digital marketing investment for<br />

most companies because, when done<br />

correctly, it brings in a steady stream of<br />

'clicks' that turn into customers.<br />

It also works continuously, whereas payper-click<br />

(PPC) advertising stops being<br />

effective the second you stop paying for it.<br />

However, a lot of SEO efforts aren’t what<br />

you'd expect them to be – and if your SEO isn’t<br />

producing the return on investment you’d<br />

hoped for, there are several reasons why.<br />

Let’s take a closer look at five of the most<br />

common reasons you’re not getting the most<br />

of your SEO campaigns.<br />

Your expectations are off<br />

SEO takes skill, expertise, and most<br />

importantly, time and effort.<br />

It’s unreasonable to expect the average<br />

campaign to produce results before it hits the<br />

four-to-six-month mark, and that’s after a<br />

great deal of adjustment along the way.<br />

Every SEO campaign is different, but a<br />

standard campaign flow is:<br />

• Month one – Research and discovery<br />

• Month two – Technical SEO work<br />

• Month three – Content creation<br />

• Month four – Optimisation and<br />

link profiling<br />

• Month five – Social media integration<br />

and campaigning<br />

The real impact doesn’t begin until well into<br />

the second month.<br />

Typically, it isn’t until the sixth month when<br />

the adjustments are in place and Google has<br />

had a chance to register them that you should<br />

attempt to determine if the campaign was<br />

successful or not.<br />

Measuring before then could skew<br />

the results.<br />

Your campaign is under-resourced<br />

Increased spending doesn’t necessarily<br />

mean better or faster results. However, you<br />

Work through this simple checklist to determine your SEO weak points.<br />

should allocate enough financial resources<br />

to take the kind of action that will produce<br />

measurable results.<br />

Try increasing your SEO budget and<br />

monitor for changes over a period of<br />

three to six months.<br />

If you cannot increase your budget,<br />

adjust your expectations and narrow your<br />

strategy; focusing on content creation and<br />

improving the other basics of SEO is more<br />

cost-effective than spreading a limited<br />

budget too thin.<br />

Your content needs improvement<br />

Google wants to provide the content for<br />

which users are searching and help them<br />

accomplish what they set out to do.<br />

Some queries are for information,<br />

others are for navigation, and others<br />

are transactional.<br />

You must be able to identify the intent<br />

behind the keywords for which people are<br />

searching and use that intent to structure<br />

your content.<br />

Blogging every day is pointless if you don’t<br />

offer your readers something of value!<br />

Not only that, but your content needs to<br />

be well-written in terms of spelling and<br />

grammar. Too much poor content – either<br />

in terms of readability or in terms of<br />

relevancy – and you’ll have trouble gaining<br />

any kind of search-engine rank.<br />

Adjust your<br />

expectations<br />

and narrow<br />

your strategy;<br />

focusing on<br />

content creation<br />

and improving<br />

the other basics<br />

of SEO is more<br />

cost-effective<br />

than spreading<br />

a limited budget<br />

too thin<br />

Your backlink profile is poor<br />

The inbound links to your site matter greatly<br />

to Google. If the sites linking to your site are<br />

poor quality, you won’t get good results.<br />

It can hurt your Google search rank if your<br />

backlink profile is fully of ‘spammy’ or<br />

irrelevant sites; too much can earn you a<br />

penalty which could temporarily – or even<br />

permanently – remove your site from the<br />

organic search results.<br />

Check your site’s backlink profile with a tool<br />

like Open Site Explorer to look for any ‘toxic’<br />

links, and then take steps to remove them.<br />

Your competition is working harder<br />

When it comes to SEO and your competition,<br />

you’re both working toward the same goal,<br />

and ultimately only one of you can win – or so<br />

the logic goes.<br />

However, this is a misconception. Your<br />

competition may get ahead of you<br />

occasionally, and sometimes even rank<br />

higher than you for a long time – but that<br />

doesn’t mean your SEO efforts aren’t making<br />

a difference and paying off.<br />

Good SEO, on a continuous basis, is what<br />

keeps you from sliding back in the search<br />

results and out of the picture completely<br />

when the competition experiences a<br />

‘growth spurt’.<br />

Additionally, if your competition suddenly<br />

seems to be ranking higher than you, wait<br />

and see if the rank improvement holds. SEO<br />

is constantly changing; chances are, you’ll<br />

see the ranks shift in your favour again.<br />

When you begin any kind of SEO campaign,<br />

be sure you conduct a thorough competitive<br />

analysis, so you know what you’re up against.<br />

This will help you in developing the best<br />

strategy for your budget and goals, which<br />

will also assist in terms of setting reasonable<br />

expectations.<br />

GARRY GRANT is a veteran expert in<br />

search engine optimisation and the<br />

digital marketing industry. He is CEO of<br />

consultancy SEO Inc. Visit: seoinc.com<br />

<strong>October</strong> <strong>2021</strong> | 83

My Bench<br />

Roberto Mattei<br />

Roberto Mattei <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Design, Sydney NSW<br />

Age 51 Years in Trade 30 • Training Five years of jewellery school and a few years with the masters • First job Laboro <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Workshop of Roberto Mattei, Rome,<br />

Italy 1997 • Other Qualifications Degree in marketing management and communication<br />


‘MY CITY' RING<br />



This is a dividable modular ring with customisable settings<br />

inspired by city landscapes. It is made from 18-carat yellow,<br />

white and rose gold, steel, titanium and osmium, set with white<br />

diamonds and Argyle cognac diamonds.<br />

4FAVOURITE GEMSTONE Peridot, because it is a<br />

relatively inexpensive stone with beautiful brightness<br />

and variations of light green colour.<br />

4FAVOURITE METAL Green gold [electrum]<br />

because it was the gold of my beginnings! It gave life<br />

when I did my castings on my early handmade floral<br />

creations, and always give me good memories.<br />

4FAVOURITE TOOL The hydrogen torch because<br />

after a life spent working in between hazardous gases<br />

and acids, the power of the hydrogen produces a<br />

much safer, hotter and cleaner flame. It’s even easier<br />

to set up!<br />

4BEST NEW TOOL DISCOVERY Laser engraver<br />

because, apart from the capability to do the deepest<br />

marking, I use it in an extreme way in cutting intricate<br />

sheets of metal with a surreal precision. This<br />

powerful tool allowed me to explore new boundaries<br />

that support the kind of design that I do, which is<br />

impossible to reach just with the conventional tools.<br />

4BEST PART OF THE JOB The first half an hour<br />

brainstorming with my wife about every new project<br />

that we start!<br />

4WORST PART OF THE JOB Wrapping a finished<br />

product to be delivered to the customer.!<br />

4BEST TIP FROM A JEWELLER “One hundred<br />

measurements, one cut,” from my Italian jewellery<br />

schoolteacher and master jeweller Edoardo Ermini.<br />

He wrote it on the board on the first day of class, in<br />

1985, without explanation. Every day from then until<br />

now, I’ve lived the meaning which is ‘be extremely<br />

precise’.<br />

4BEST TIP TO A JEWELLER Use any tool and don’t<br />

limit the way you can use them to achieve your<br />

final piece. And your brain – as my current, smart<br />

apprentice reminded me – is the most powerful tool.<br />


Inhaled asbestos during soldering on the board<br />

before it was banned in 1992.<br />

4LOVE JEWELLERY BECAUSE It gives me a chance<br />

to listen to what my customers want, and from<br />

there create a raw piece of flawless design where<br />

every piece of the pattern is made artistically and<br />

imaginatively unique, as I believe that my customers<br />

deserve the best.<br />

84 | <strong>October</strong> <strong>2021</strong>


Soapbox<br />

Let’s communicate – if only it was that easy!<br />

Contact is key when it comes to retail, but too many retailers – and suppliers – are overwhelmed by<br />

the many different channels of communication, writes JOSHUA ZARB.<br />

Like all of us, I have a deep love and<br />

passion for the jewellery industry – so<br />

much so that I decided to put everything<br />

on the line right as COVID-19 hit in 2020<br />

and start, from scratch, what is now one<br />

of four buying groups within Australia.<br />

From the moment we launched, I had<br />

never been more motivated to try and<br />

assist independent jewellery businesses<br />

with anything and everything to assist them<br />

to thrive in the modern retail landscape.<br />

With that in mind, during this time I have<br />

witnessed an ever-increasing divide<br />

between those business owners who have<br />

adapted to the digital jewellery landscape<br />

and those that have not.<br />

Whether we like or not, our customers<br />

have changed the way they communicate<br />

with us, and we are now forced to step<br />

up to the plate and provide levels of<br />

communication and service that simply<br />

didn’t exist as little as five years ago.<br />

Now, I am by no means a 'tech head' and<br />

this article isn’t about why we all need to<br />

be Facebook experts; but I am 44 years old<br />

and fall into a unique age bracket that<br />

allows me to understand both sides of the<br />

digital ‘fence’.<br />

I grew up riding push bikes, going to the<br />

beach and kicking a football for fun and<br />

I didn’t get my first proper computer<br />

until I was in my first year at university<br />

– but I was forced to use one from that<br />

moment onwards.<br />

I feel extremely lucky that I grew up<br />

meeting people face to face and having<br />

to pluck up the courage to ask for dates<br />

in person – I can’t even imagine swiping<br />

right on a mobile phone in order to have a<br />

fun Saturday night! – because it taught me<br />

skills useful in both life and business.<br />

Yet I still want to encourage retailers,<br />

suppliers, and manufacturers to learn<br />

about the different ways to communicate<br />

with customers that may not come<br />

as naturally as they do to the younger<br />

generations.<br />

It’s easy to feel like a jack-of-all-trades<br />

just to keep up with all the requests that<br />

come in each day.<br />

As an example, as I write this my phone<br />

has ‘dinged’ six different ways. I need to<br />

be able to understand what these different<br />

notifications mean, where they come<br />

from, how quickly I need to respond,<br />

and in which order.<br />

Meanwhile, one of IJC’s retailers has sent<br />

me an Instagram message to see if I know<br />

where to source a particular style of hoop<br />

earring, and I also have several new emails<br />

to respond to – as if I didn’t have enough to<br />

deal with!<br />

This example is relevant to both retailers<br />

and suppliers.<br />

Retailers, in particular, need to at<br />

least understand all the ways in which<br />

their customers will reach out and<br />

contact them.<br />

In addition to all the above, if I were a<br />

retailer, I could have simultaneously<br />

received a sale notification from my<br />

e-commerce platform, a live chat message<br />

via the website through a service like<br />

Podium, or a good old-fashioned phone<br />

call from a customer.<br />

We all need to be ready to respond in<br />

different ways.<br />

For suppliers, it’s a little easier – they<br />

can simply ask retailers how they prefer<br />

to be contacted, take a note of it, and stick<br />

with that.<br />

I want to<br />

encourage<br />

retailers,<br />

suppliers, and<br />

manufacturers<br />

to learn about<br />

the different<br />

ways to<br />

communicate<br />

with customers<br />

that may<br />

not come as<br />

naturally as<br />

they do to<br />

the younger<br />

generations<br />

However, that doesn’t excuse suppliers<br />

from learning how to use different<br />

communication services and platforms.<br />

Personally, I still like meeting face to face<br />

and picking up the phone – old school,<br />

I know – but I think there are some<br />

basic skills that can help us all be more<br />

effective communicators with customers<br />

who are digitally-orientated.<br />

It’s simple things like learning how to<br />

take screenshots of your mobile phone,<br />

cropping that image, and saving it, adding<br />

text, then sending the image to someone<br />

across as many platforms as you can.<br />

It’s learning how to use a ‘snipping’ tool<br />

on your computer and snip images or<br />

text and send it to yourself as an email<br />

attachment, so you can save it as an<br />

image on your phone to send on to others.<br />

It’s learning how to crop an image in<br />

PowerPoint and save something as a PDF.<br />

If any of the above doesn’t make sense to<br />

you straight away, reach out for help from<br />

someone who knows.<br />

Once we nail the basics, we can get onto<br />

the fun stuff like sending effective email<br />

communications to drive sales, using SMS<br />

to reduce overdues, and setting up a social<br />

media storefront for the business.<br />

At the end of the day, your business will<br />

ultimately be valued on the strength of<br />

your communication – that's why learning<br />

these new ways of communicating should<br />

be your first priority.<br />

Name: Joshua Zarb<br />

Business: Independent <strong>Jeweller</strong>s<br />

Collective<br />

Position: CEO<br />

Location: Sydney, New South Wales<br />

Years in the industry: 17<br />

86 | <strong>October</strong> <strong>2021</strong>



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