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CQ27_FINAL_SPREADS (1)

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his country.

(There is a historic photograph.

It shows the finish in Órleans

at the moment when the riders

cross the line. It looks like a

freezing cold day, because

everyone is wrapped up warm.

Merckx is on the right of the

image, with his arm raised. He

is wearing the snow-coloured

leader’s jersey with the word

‘Molteni’ printed on his chest.

To his left, one wheel behind,

we see Ryszard Szurkowski. He

is wearing a world champion’s

jersey. His eyes are closed,

his mouth open. Perhaps he

understands the opportunity

that has just slipped through

his fingers. In the background,

far in the background, a teammate

of Merckx’s celebrates the

victory as if he had won himself.

It was then that Eddy said if

he had been able to sign as a

professional he would have been

buying a one-way ticket out of

Poland.)

After he retired times and

fashions changed. Then he

was able to innovate. He was

national coach for four years,

between Los Angeles and Seoul,

where Poland took silver in the

team time trial. He coached

Lech Piasecki to the double in

1985 – the Peace Race and the

world championships. Piasecki

was finally able to compete with

the professionals, and he scored

some remarkable results. Stage

wins in the Giro, time trials here

and there, a few days in yellow

at the Tour. One imagines

Szurkowski reading the news

smiling, with a touch of pride

and a hint of resignation. I could

have done that. I was better

than him. Still . . .

Of course, he was in a different

position. He was a legend. Legends

don’t get paid much, but

they stay in the memory.

It’s not clear which is better, in

the long run.

The Peace Race survived as long

as the communist regimes. At

least the classic version, the one

that made everyone dream. It

languished in the 1980s, unable

to generate new myths, to

produce historic moments like

those of decades before. All the

paraphernalia of propaganda,

all those beautiful images in

posters and photographs . . . so

distant now. Now we are older.

More cynical, less innocent. We

know that Poles and Russians

sometimes attacked each other

in the peloton, that Czechs were

looked down on. The magic was

lost on the road to dialectical

materialism.

It was a Czechoslovakian who

won the first Peace Race after

the fall of the Wall. The classic

capital cities were left out of

this edition, and the race took

a picturesque route between

Berlin, Slušovice, Bielsko and

Biała. The event lived on until

2006. Gaimpalo Cheula, an

Italian, won on the Linz-Karlovy

Vary-Hanover route. But nothing

was the same. There were professional

teams, brands showing

off, sometimes in obscene ways,

there were kids who had no idea

of the sacred significance of the

race they were riding. But yes,

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