Jeweller - April 2022

VOICE OF THE AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY INDUSTRY
APRIL 2022
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APRIL 2022
Contents
This Month
Industry Facets
11 Editorial
12 Upfront
14 News
30 Jewellers Showcase
26
29
64
66
10 YEARS AGO
Time Machine: April 2012
LEARN ABOUT GEMS
Freshwater pearls
MY BENCH
Mario Orlando
SOAPBOX
Renata Bernard
32 RUSSIAN DIAMONDS FEATURE
Rough debate
4Following the invasion of Ukraine, the West
has heaped economic sanctions on Russia and
as a result, the diamond trade has been thrown
a unique challenge. ROBERT BOUQUET analyses
what’s on the horizon for jewellery industry.
Features
32
39
44
RUSSIAN DIAMONDS FEATURE
The Russian question
WATCH FEATURE
Germany beckons for Swiss watch brands
BRANDS & DISTRIBUTION UPDATE
Watch Buying Guide
51
GEM QUARTER
Black and white gemstones
Better Your Business
39 WATCH FEATURE
Hands of time
4An iconic annual trade fair is off the
international agenda for another year and as a
result, the door has been opened for another
event to fill its place, writes MARTIN FOSTER.
58
60
61
62
63
BUSINESS STRATEGY
Displays make-or-break a store. KIZER AND BENDER helps you avoid common traps.
SELLING
BRIAN WALKER explores the world of personality profiling in sales.
MARKETING & PR
JEANNIE WALTERS shares the key to improving your business amid uncertainty.
MANAGEMENT
Keep your sales staff on target with these crucial tips from BRIAN JEFFREY.
LOGGED ON
GARRY GRANT dispels the myths around email-marketing and its alleged demise.
51 GEM QUARTER
Classic beauty
4 Jeweller explores the world
of black and white gemstones,
examining their endless appeal
and captivating nature brought
on by simplicity.
FRONT COVER MGDL Distribution is
proud to announce the relaunch of
Calvin Klein watches and jewellery in
Australia & New Zealand. The Calvin Klein
collection was created with the modern
customer in mind. Featuring timeless,
minimalist designs that highlight Calvin
Klein’s globally recognised aesthetic that
has defined the brand for over 50 years.
mgdldistribution.com.au
April 2022 | 9

Concept to Creation
YOUR JEWELLERY DESIGN BROUGHT TO LIFE
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Editor’s Desk
Making sense of the Omega x Swatch chaos
Two iconic watch brands, one low price – the MoonSwatch was destined to be an astronomical collaboration.
While Swatch has stressed that this wasn’t a limited edition release, it wasn’t enough to prevent crowd chaos at launches
across the globe. ANGELA HAN explores what this says about consumers today and what it means for the watch industry.
On the eve of 26 March, queues stretching
hundreds of meters formed across cities
worldwide, from Melbourne and Tokyo to
New York and London. Pitched tents and
fold-out chairs painted a familiar picture
of excitement and anticipation that was
reminiscent of an Apple launch. But this
time the queues weren’t for Apple – they
were for Swatch.
The fanfare erupted over the long-awaited
$380 MoonSwatch that was made in
collaboration with Omega. Unavailable
for purchase online, collectors had no
choice but to travel and camp outside the
boutiques to get their hands on one of the
11 solar-system inspired timepieces.
Madness ensued to such an extent that
police intervention was reported at an
event in Singapore, where violence broke
out. The Law and Home Affairs Minister
had to call for a “sense of perspective”
from shoppers, saying that “we don’t need
to lose our minds over these situations”.
London’s Carnaby Street boutique was
forced to close over crowd safety concerns
within 30 minutes of opening, and new
MoonSwatch owners in Dubai had to
be escorted with their purchase by law
enforcement from the store to get safely
through the aggressive stampede of
increasingly impatient hopefuls.
It was reported that the watches sold out
in under 10 minutes in Melbourne, and
police had to be called to help manage
the throngs of people who had lined up
through the night before. It was a similar
situation at Sydney’s Pitt Street boutique;
videos appeared of eager fans crowding
outside the store in the wee hours of
the morning wanting to wrap the iconic
release around their wrist before the
store’s allocation was exhausted.
While Swatch confirmed that the
MoonSwatch collection is not a limited
edition, and new stock would be available
in the coming weeks, opportunistic
scalpers were quick to list their watches
on eBay where prices were inflated to
10 times the original price. At the time
of publishing, the highest bid was at
AU$7,327, with 39 bidders vying for the
Mission to the Moon model. The startling
truth is that this price is closer to the RRP
for the original Omega Speedmaster!
Making the pricepoint accessible to the
masses has not stopped people from paying
exorbitant prices on the secondary market
for immediate access to a MoonSwatch.
With the Watches & Wonders trade fair
in Geneva right around the corner and
big brands such as Rolex, Cartier and
Patek Phillipe launching bold new models
(with equally bold price tags), it feels ironic
that this modest timepiece has snatched
headlines and stolen the limelight.
What does this say about consumers
today, and does this herald positive
news for the watch industry?
Brand value builds the queue
For watch lovers, there’s little wonder
that the MoonSwatch amassed so much
traction. The release celebrates one of the
most iconic timepieces ever created by
Omega – the Speedmaster, with the most
renowned watchmaker in the world, Swatch.
While some pessimists have criticised the
collaboration, bemoaning the dilution of an
iconic brand, others have lauded the project.
The ‘glass half full’ crowd is saying that this
release lifted Swatch’s profile beyond the
status of a manufacturer of cheap plastic
quartz watches, with others suggesting
the stage is now prepared for more exciting
collaborations to come, not just for its own
stable of brands, but also for others.
What both crowds seem to forget is that
selling ‘cheap plastic quartz watches’ is
what enabled Swatch Group to become
the juggernaut that owns Omega – not
the other way around!
Under the magnifying glass, it’s difficult
to scrutinise the story and heritage of this
project. By referencing the original Omega
Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch
that was worn by Buzz Aldrin during
the Apollo 11 moon landing in 1969, the
collection was released with 11 colour
palettes – each representing a different
planet within the solar system. At a
friendly price point, it allows enthusiasts
access without breaking the bank and
forking out AU$7,600 for an original
42mm Professional Chronograph. The
result? A golden product that conjures
desirability at a price anyone could afford.
Collaborations between fast fashion and
luxury designers have been going on for
more than a decade and are usually
well-received by consumers. It's surprising
that the conservative Swiss have only now
taken a bite from this apple.
Collaborations
between fast
fashion and
luxury designers
have been going
on for more
than a decade
and are usually
well-received by
consumers. It's
surprising that
the conservative
Swiss have only
now taken a bite
from this apple.
This Omega x Swatch collaboration may
prove to be a spark that starts a fire amidst
the resurging popularity of traditional
watches. Only time will tell. One thing is
for sure: more collaborations between
watch brands will most likely continue
following the success of this recent event.
After all, reigniting the market share of
quartz and mechanical watch-wearers
from recent collectors or smartwatch
converts bodes well for the industry.
This sort of marketing and innovation is
welcome, especially when the traditional
watch trade was said to be dated.
Regardless of what the critics say, judging
by the reception, this is a win for the industry.
The post-smartwatch era
For almost a decade since the widespread
adoption of the Apple Watch, pundits have
speculated that the tech intrusion into the
market was the beginning of the end for
the traditional analogue watch. For a
fraction of the cost, you can monitor
your health, answer calls and set infinite
reminders with a smartwatch. It’s only fair
that many have asked the question: is the
traditional wristwatch now obsolete?
Fast forward to 2022 consumers appear
to finally have grown tired of having their
lives dominated by 24-hour notifications.
As the world exits the COVID pandemic
there is a growing trend for consumers to
'declutter' and 'detox' from tech, coupled
with extensive social media campaigns
driven by brands that are eager to highlight
the beauty of traditional watchmaking, the
rise in demand for traditional wristwatches
has come back with a vengeance.
Might I add that we didn't see headlines
of police intervention during the 2015
launch of Apple x Hermés at the height
of its popularity!
While there will always be a market for both
categories, consumers today, particularly
millennials, have shown a preference for
classic products that withstand the test
of time – this is good news for traditional
watch companies, especially those with a
strong brand heritage.
This growing group of aficionados proudly
set themselves apart as connoisseurs of
craftsmanship and history. Now is the time
for brands to reinvigorate themselves and
celebrate their story.
Angela Han
Publisher
April 2022 | 11

Upfront
#Instagram hashtags to follow
Alpha Order
#925silver
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#australianjewellery
102,832 POSTS
#coinjewelry
82,066 POSTS
#daintynecklace
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#earringsoftheday
4,356,742 POSTS
HISTORIC GEMSTONE
The Hope Pearl
4Weighing 450-carats, the Hope Pearl was
believed to be the largest natural saltwater
pearl in the world and was one of the first
acquisitions of nineteenth-century gem
collector and banker Henry Philip Hope, who
had acquired many famous gemstones and
diamonds for his collection including the
famous Hope Diamond.
This large, natural pearl is uniquely colored
greenish-gold to white and has been
classified as a blister pearl, which grows
attached to the mollusk’s shell.
Today, the Hope Pearl is the property of an
anonymous private collector from England
who has loaned it to be displayed at the
British Museum of Natural History.
#instajeweller
17,733 POSTS
#jewellerygram
938,014 POSTS
#jewellerymaker
1,074,794 POSTS
#pearlchoker
94,7873 POSTS
#ringstack
445,556 POSTS
Trend Spotting
4Chunky layered chokers and
oversized gemstones are stealing the
show. From Versace's 2022 runway
collection to the recent SAG Awards,
knuckle-duster rings and jumbo
gems have been spotted everywhere.
Resort-style glamour never went away,
and local jewellery designers such as
Brisbane-based Christie Nicolaides
have pieces that suit the red carpet or
a boat party through the Greek islands.
Image credit: Instagram @christienicolaides
Image: Tiffany & Co
Stranger Things
Weird, wacky and wonderful
jewellery news from around the world
Diamonds out of thin air?
4New lab-created diamond
manufacturer Aether has said it
uses Swiss technology to pull the
carbon dioxide out of the atmosphere
to create diamonds. To date, no
company has been able to claim that
it extracts 20 metric tons of CO2 from
the air for every one carat of diamond.
In a two-part process, the diamonds
need a reactor to extract CO2 out
of the air which then becomes the
raw material in a reactor where the
diamonds are grown.
Carats in ranch dressing
4A diamond made from ranch
dressing recently sold for US$12,550
on eBay as a 'limited edition item'
with 79 bidders vying for the unusual
piece of jewellery. Hidden Valley
Ranch commissioned a diamond
manufacturer to create a two-carat
round-brilliant synthetic diamond
and set it into a 14-carat white gold
band. "Hidden Valley Ranch Lover'
(HVR LVR) is engraved on the inside
of the shank.
Who am I? Just
about the best
navigational
discovery app in a
'roundabout waze'.
Get on your Waze
4Waze is a navigational app with over 130
million active users a month who rely on it to
get real-time information of road accidents,
closed roads and location of police and
speed cameras. Due to its accuracy of usergenerated
information and geo-targeting,
businesses can also take advantage of anyone
making a drive by your store.
For example, Waze has multiple advertising
options for jewellers who may want to use
branded pins, arrows and promoted searches
to stand out to passing traffic. Other curious
users can tap on your branded pin and
discover your business.
Campaign Watch
4K-pop sensation Rosé of girl group
Blackpink reprises in Tiffany & Co's
latest HardWear campaign as the
brand's global ambassador for her
second year running. Set to launch
in July, the new diamond pavé-set gold
designs are based on a throwback to
the 1971 bracelet from The Tiffany
Archive where designs were functional,
architectural and bold.
There's more to Mercury
4Billions of years of meteorite impact
may have turned Mercury’s surface
into diamonds according to scientist
Kevin Cannon. Computer simulations
were used to predict impacts that may
have transformed one-third of the
planet’s crust into a diamond stockpile.
The findings show that if Mercury had
surface graphite 300 meters thick, it
would have generated 16 quadrillion
tons of diamonds — about 16 times
Earth’s reserves. An opportunity to
scout for diamonds may come in 2025.
VOICE OF THE AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY INDUSTRY
Published by Befindan Media Pty Ltd
Locked Bag 26, South Melbourne, VIC 3205 AUSTRALIA | ABN 66 638 077 648 | Phone: +61 3 9696 7200 | Subscriptions & Enquiries: info@jewellermagazine.com
Publisher Angela Han angela.han@jewellermagazine.com • Journalists Richard Chiu editorial@jewellermagazine.com | Samuel Ord samuel.ord@jewellermagazine.com
Production Coordinator Lauren McKinnon art@befindanmedia.com
Advertising Toli Podolak toli.podolak@jewellermagazine.com • Accounts Paul Blewitt finance@befindanmedia.com
Copyright All material appearing in Jeweller is subject to copyright. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly forbidden without prior written consent of the publisher. Befindan Media Pty Ltd
strives to report accurately and fairly and it is our policy to correct significant errors of fact and misleading statements in the next available issue. All statements made, although based on information
believed to be reliable and accurate at the time, cannot be guaranteed and no fault or liability can be accepted for error or omission. Any comment relating to subjective opinions should be addressed to
the editor. Advertising The publisher reserves the right to omit or alter any advertisement to comply with Australian law and the advertiser agrees to indemnify the publisher for all damages or liabilities
arising from the published material.

EXCLUSIVELY DISTRIBUTED IN AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND BY
AU +61 2 8543 4600 NZ +64 9 480 2211 | designaaccessories.com.au

News
Australian Jewellery Fair overwhelming success say suppliers and retailers
with Erin Keller, membership manager Nationwide
Jewellers confirming that “the energy in the room
was amazing! Our members attended from all
over the country, from Toowoomba to Mudgee to
Launceston, and they were just as excited to see us
and suppliers, as we were to see them!”
Josh Zarb CEO Independent Jewellers Collective
said that overall he was “very pleased by the vibe
and the atmosphere throughout the whole show.”
The boutique-style event, which was sold out four weeks before opening, was promoted as “Kick Start 2022”.
The Australian Jewellery Fair and has been
declared a success. The boutique-style event,
which was sold out four weeks before opening, was
promoted as “Kick Start 2022”.
The event was held in the same room as last year’s
event at Sydney International Convention Centre
at Darling Harbour and Gary Fitz-Roy managing
director Expertise Events said it “hit the mark”.
“There was a definite upbeat feel from the opening
to close on both days, with strong reports of very
good buying on the show floor.
“It seems all businesses have been riding a
rollercoaster and, after starting to recover from
COVID restrictions, lurching from bush fires to the
latest flood issue, sometimes you can't help but
think, ‘Give us a break’, but like most Australians
the jewellery sector is very resilient,” Fitz-Roy said.
He explained that the success of the tradeshow
was “helped by the NSW government’s easing of
QR codes and masks, so it was great to see smiling
faces. Saturday night Happy Hour was very much
appreciated and was certainly a small celebration.”
At the commencement of Happy Hour, and when
everyone had a drink, Fitz-Roy took the opportunity
to ask the exhibitors and visitors to pause and
salute industry icon Peter Beck – who passed away
last year - as many of his industry friends and
colleagues were unable to attend the funeral in
Adelaide because of COVID border restrictions.
David Paterson, managing director of Paterson
Fine Jewellery said the fair was great result for all
involved: “It was terrific to see so many people we
haven’t seen for a long time and all came together
to listen to some of the sad but inspiring stories of
our friends and peers who are doing it tough with
the recent floods.
“However, there is lots of resilience and positivity.
We had a great weekend with sales and we are now
really excited about what we can expect in August.”
According to Mike Dyer, sales manager, Retail Edge,
“The show was great. The atmosphere was warm
and exciting, a bit like a gathering of friends that
had seen each other for a while.”
He added, “The traffic [visitor numbers] was good
for both days and for us there was a good mix
of existing clients and new opportunities. The
exhibitors around us all expressed that they had
been busy and did good business. Retailers were
there to spend,” he added.
Greville Ingham national sales manager Peter W
Beck said, "It was nothing short of an ‘uplift’ is
how I would describe the AJF this past weekend.
"Despite so many being affected by the recent
floods and suppliers being hampered by COVID and
travel restrictions, people came together to support
the industry and a “get on with it” attitude in a good
Aussie spirit. The show was pervaded by a sense of
positivity, loud banter, slaps on the back and lot’s of
great complements for the product on display. Well
done to all!"
There was a good cross section of retail buyers
He was another who said that the show was well
supported. “I was surprised on how busy the show
felt overall on both the Saturday and the Sunday.
It seemed to open with a bang right from 10am on
the Saturday and didn’t slow down at all over the
two days.
“The [ICC] room felt like it was the perfect size
and I am sure that all suppliers would have had
a fantastic result.”
Vera Jarjo jewellery services relationship manager
at Pallion also said it was great to see old and new
faces over the two days.
“We have missed this personal interaction due
to COVID and it is fantastic to be engaging with
clients again. The lead scanning tool was a
welcome addition to the fair and we look forward
to connecting with these clients post event,”
Jarjo said.
Both Nationwide Jewellers and Independent
Jewellers Collective took the opportunity to use
Kick Start 2022 to kick-off their group’s activities
for the New Year.
Nationwide Jewellers managing director Colin
Pocklington said, “Our members benefitted from
our workshop program and enjoyed the chance
to meet suppliers face-to-face with again. The
high level of retailer attendance and busy aisles
translated into good sales for exhibitors.
“The attendance and results from the March
fair augers well for the IJWF at Darling Harbour
in August.”
Zarb added: “We use the fairs to meet new
stores of course, and just as importantly to catch
up with our members. We hosted a function on
the Friday evening prior to the fair and it was so
nice to have over 30 of our IJC partners join us
over the weekend.
“We used the fair to have the opportunity to spend
time with our retailers.”
Fitz-Roy said that final planning is well underway
for the August International Jewellery fair and, “If
the weekend’s results are anything to go by it will
be well and truly to complete coming together.”
He added that the three key buying groups –
Nationwide, IJC and Leading Edge – all had space
on the show floor and will be hosting membership
activities in and around the three days.
14 | April 2022

News
Perth Mint collaborates with Argyle diamonds for new launch
The Jewelled Koi is part of the Masterpieces Series,
and features 78 Argyle Pink diamonds and 80 fine white
diamonds set in 10 ounces of 99.99 per cent pure gold.
The Perth Mint has launched a limited-edition
commemorative coin, The Jewelled Koi, which
showcases Australia’s famed Argyle Pink
diamonds.
Part of the Masterpieces Series, the coin
features 78 Argyle Pink diamonds and 80 fine
white diamonds set in 10 ounces of 99.99 per
cent pure gold.
Each coin is valued at $262,800 and the inspiration
behind the use of the koi as the featured animal
is its symbolism for fertility, marriage, prosperity
and wealth. Only eight were produced as it is the
“luckiest” number in the Chinese culture.
The coins also feature the image of Queen
Elizabeth II crafted by Royal Mint engraver Jody
Clark, the monetary denomination and year-date
on the obverse, presented in a display case set
with two additional Argyle Pinks and 18-carat
gold insets.
The Jewelled Koi is the fifth annual release of The
Mint’s diamond-studded exclusive jewelled coin
series such as the Jewelled Phoenix, Dragon, Tiger
and Horse which gained popularity and sought by
enthusiasts worldwide.
According to Jane King, CEO, “The Perth Mint is
proud to present The Jewelled Koi to the global
luxury market and we look forward to creating even
more extraordinary collectable artworks in future.
“The exquisite craftsmanship, precious materials
and cultural considerations that go into every
jewelled piece makes each iteration highly sought
after by numismatic connoisseurs.”
Neil Vance, general manager, The Perth Mint said,
“Each jewelled coin series is a huge commitment
but every year the results are just outstanding,
and the koi is no different – the exceptional artistry
in this series is second to none and we have no
doubt the numismatic community will be just as
impressed with the koi as we are.”
The jewelled series was started by The Mint in
January 2018 with the Jewelled Phoenix and
developed annually by Singapore-based John
Glajz, an Argyle Pink Diamond authorised partner
and a regional ambassador for the Natural Colour
Diamond Association.
Jewellery & Gem World moves to Singapore in historic move
“Suppliers who are serious about business will
be at JGW Singapore, and we are confident that
global buyers in decision-making roles will make
the trip to the city-state to join us on the show
floor,” she said.
Hong Kong has been plagued with another COVID
outbreak in recent months and restrictions on
travel and public gathering remain in place.
At the same time, Singapore has eased travel and
social distancing restrictions making the city-state
an attractive destination to the in-person event.
The organisers of the Jewellery & Gem World (JGW)
Fair have revealed that this year’s exhibition will
take place in Singapore, not Hong Kong.
The exhibition is expected to take place on 23-27
September, with organisers pursuing a more
‘accessible’ in-person experience.
The change of venue is expected to be a one-off
arrangement, with the decision to change location
made with pandemic restrictions on travel in mind,
according to organiser Informa Markets.
Celine Lau, director of Jewellery Fairs at Informa
Markets said, “Even against the background
of a pandemic, Singapore has the capacity to
securely and efficiently host the world’s most
iconic jewellery show.”
“As the longstanding home base of the most
important jewellery fair in the world, Hong Kong is
almost always mentioned in the same breath as
JGW. In fact, it has become an annual tradition for
thousands of suppliers and buyers to travel to Hong
Kong every September,” Lau said.
“Our community can rest assured that Hong
Kong will be ready to deliver the full JGW
experience in 2023 when conditions allow for
safe and responsible in-person interactions, and
international travel restrictions are lifted.”
David Bondi, senior vice president at Informa
Markets said, “The last two years have been
extremely challenging for everybody, and we, as an
industry, have been doing our utmost to not only
keep businesses running, but moving forward.”
“Industry stakeholders overwhelmingly told us they
wanted safe and secure physical fairs that they
Jewellery & Gem World, Hong Kong, 2019.
could participate in, and Informa Markets delivered
by successfully hosting enhanced large-scale inperson
events in the US, Europe, Middle East and
Asia in the last several months, with many more
firmly scheduled for 2022 and beyond,” he said.
Bondi noted that the Jewellery, Gem & Technology
Dubai, which recently concluded, attracted buyers
from more than 100 countries and demonstrated
the need for face-to-face interactions.
Informa Markets has also scheduled specialedition
fairs such as the Jewellery & Gem Asia
Hong Kong event running 16-19 June, Jewellery
& Gem WORLD Hong Kong on 16-19 September,
and Jewellery & Gem ASEAN Bangkok on 2-5
November.
MORE BREAKING NEWS
JEWELLERMAGAZINE.COM
April 2022 | 15

News
Cartier sues Tiffany & Co.
International jewellery brand Cartier – part of the Richemont group – has accused
Tiffany & Co. of “stealing trade secrets” and filed a lawsuit before a New York state court
International jewellery brand Cartier – part of the Richemont group –
has accused Tiffany & Co. of “stealing trade secrets” and filed a lawsuit
before a New York state court.
The complaint was based on charges that Tiffany hired and took
advantage of a former Cartier junior manager’s knowledge regarding its
high-end jewellery business in an attempt to revive its own designs.
In a statement to Reuters, "Cartier fully respects the rights of
competitors to pursue International jewellery brand Cartier – part of
the Richemont group – has accused Tiffany & Co. of “stealing trade
secrets” and filed a lawsuit before a New York state court.
Cartier is seeking an injunction against Tiffany demanding to return
and desist from using stolen trade secrets, plus compensation for
unspecified damages.
The lawsuit charged that former Cartier junior manager Megan Marino
was hired by Tiffany in December 2021 in a “desperate move” to jumpstart
its business which was, according to claims, losing traction after a
series of leadership departures that indicated a "disturbing culture of
misappropriating competitive information".
According to court documents, Tiffany fired Marino just five weeks
after being hired and in an affidavit submitted by Marino along with the
complaint stating that Tiffany was "more interested in hiring me as a
source of information than as a High Jewelry manager".
The term ‘high jewellery’ is marketing jargon used by some
international jewellery brands to describe pieces that typically cost
above $50,000; there is no universally accepted definition.
The charge sheet also claimed that Tiffany hired another former Cartier
executive to work on its ‘Blue Book’ high-end jewellery project despite a
prevailing six-month non-compete agreement.
Responding to the charges, Tiffany told Reuters, "We deny the baseless
allegations and will vigorously defend ourselves."
Exclusive Distributor of BOSS watches in
Australia & New Zealand
Tiffany & Co. was acquired by French Luxury conglomerate Moët
Hennessy Louis Vuitton (LVMH) in January 2021, but the takeover was
marred by insults, lawsuits and accusations of mismanagement.
Soon after LVMH closed its $US15.8 billion ($AU21.7 billion) acquisition
of the American jewellery retailer, it replaced several of Tiffany’s senior
leaders with executives from other parts of the LVMH empire.
Ph: +61 (3) 9372 1122
info@mgdl.com.au
In February last year, Jeweller reported that LVMH held a “town hall”
meeting for Tiffany & Co. employees in which management outlined
a shift in focus toward “high-end, sparkling jewellery” and away from
affordable, sterling silver product lines.
mgdldistribution.com.au

News
Swatch Group halts exports
The suspension of exports from the group could be a major
blow to wealthy Russians wanting to acquire assets of value
amid the plummeting value of the Russian rouble.
Swiss watch conglomerate Swatch Group
– which owns Omega, Longines, Tissot, and
Breguet, among others – has announced it
has halted exports to Russia.
The suspension of exports from the group could
be a major blow to wealthy Russians wanting to
acquire assets of value amid the plummeting
value of the Russian rouble.
“Swatch Group is monitoring and analysing the
situation very closely. At the moment, we have
put exports to Russia on hold,” the company
told Watchpro.
Affluent Russians have reportedly been purchasing
luxury watches and jewellery in an effort to take
advantage of the value of the rouble which has
been plunging since the invasion of Ukraine.
The sanctions are taking a toll on the Russian
currency and restricted cash movement, both
domestic and international.
The European Union has also acted to exclude
several Russian banks from the SWIFT financial
messaging and payments system.
Several major logistics and travel companies have
also suspended operations and services which
could trigger shortages on materials and supplies,
demand volatility and increase costs.
LUXURY BRANDS EXITING RUSSIA
24 Feb Audemars Piguet 4 Mar Hermés
24 Feb Pandora 4 Mar Kering
27 Feb Brilliant Earth 4 Mar Swarovski
28 Feb Breitling 5 Mar Prada
3 Mar Cartier
24 Feb – Ukraine Exit
6 Mar LVMH
24 Feb – Ukraine Exit
3 Mar Richemont Group 6 Mar Rolex
3 Mar Swatch Group 10 Mar Richard Mille
4 Mar Chanel
Signet Jewellers boycotts Russian diamonds
Signet Jewellers, the world’s largest
retailer of diamond jewellery, has declared
a suspension of purchasing Russian mined
diamonds in response to the invasion of
Ukraine in late February.
In mid-March the company announced that
diamonds mined in Russia would not be
purchased from suppliers by Signet retailers for
the foreseeable future.
It’s a clash between two monumental
influences of the global market, with Signet
the largest diamond retailer in the most
significant market, the US, and Russia the
world’s largest diamond mining country.
The US market accounts for approximately
half of the world’s diamond retail sales. Russia
supplies approximately one third of the world’s
diamonds, with more than 90 per cent of those
diamonds mined by Alrosa.
Signet Jewellers CEO, Virginia Drosos,
told Bloomberg that the company doesn’t
expect any downturn despite the change in
approach to supply.
“If we don’t buy Russian diamonds ourselves and
if we require our vendors to also certify that they
are not buying new Russian diamonds, we still
have sufficient supply for the year and into the
holidays,” she said.
The Signet Love Inspires Foundation also
recently donated $US1 million to the Ukrainian
branch of the Red Cross in order to assist
humanitarian efforts.
Signet has suspended overall business
interaction with Russian-owned entities since
the beginning of the invasion in late February.
Drosos said that the company is proud to
support humanitarian organisations such as
the Red Cross.
"We put our purpose into action through
the Signet Love Inspires Foundation and the
generous contributions from our Signet team
members. We give with a grateful heart to
support the Red Cross organization's critical
mission to provide lifesaving help where it is so
desperately needed."
Signet released its latest quarterly and annual
financial report on March 13, with full year
revenue for the 2022 fiscal year reaching
$US7.8 billion, a sharp increase following a
disappointing 2021 ($US5.3 billion).
London Bullion body suspends gold and silver
trading with Russian refineries
The London Bullion Market Association (LBMA)
has announced the suspension from sourcing
gold and silver with six Russian-based refiners
for an indefinite period in light of the mounting
economic sanctions imposed on Russia.
The economic sanctions arise following
Russia’s invasion of Ukraine in late February.
Gold and silver refineries JSC Krastsvetmet,
JSC Novosibirsk Refinery, JSC Uralelectromed,
Prioksky Plant of Non-Ferrous Metals,
Shyolkovsky Factory of Secondary Precious
Metals, and gold-only Moscow Special Alloys
Processing Plant are all suspended from
LBMA’s Good Delivery list.
Gold and silver bars processed after the
suspension order on the these refineries
will no longer be accepted in the London
bullion market.
However, bars traded from the refineries before
the suspension will still be honoured.
The London bullion market is the largest in the
world and the suspension is expected to have a
significant impact on the trading partners of the
suspended refineries.
Additionally, several US senators have sought
to pass a bill preventing Russia from liquidating
gold assets, which could be used to soften the
impact of the economic sanctions.
The senators who authored the bill seek to
impose additional sanctions on US-based
companies trading or transporting gold from
the Bank of Russia, as well as companies
physically or electronically selling gold in
Russia.
Senator Angus King, one of the bill’s authors,
told Axios, “Russia’s massive gold supply is
one of the few remaining assets that [President
Vladimir] Putin can use to keep his country’s
economy from falling even further."
"By sanctioning these reserves, we can further
isolate Russia from the world’s economy and
increase the difficulty of Putin’s increasinglycostly
military campaign."
Based on data from the Bank of Russia
international reserves as of 18 February
were at $US643.2 billion ($AU881.41 billion)
ranking fourth among countries with the
highest forex reserves.
It has 23 per cent of its reserves in gold, while
22 per cent of the reserves are in US dollars.
18 | April 2022

News
More EU sanctions on Russia
The European Union has announced a fourth round of economic
santions on Russia following the invasion of Ukraine in late February,
and among the restrictive measures is a ban on the importartion of
luxury items such as diamonds and jewellery.
The move by the EU comes after a similar ban was placed on
importing Russian diamonds in the US.
The punitive measures also prohibit all transactions with identified
state-owned enterprises, the granting of credit rating services to any
Russian citizen or entity and any new investment in the Russian energy
sector. The EU also expanded the list of people linked to Russia’s
defence and industrial sectors.
The additional trade restrictions include a ban on importing industrial
and precious metals, jewellery, pearls, gold, rough and polished
diamonds, and metal parts valued at €300 ($US330) or more.
Despite the intensified measures, the enhanced restrictions apply only
to rough diamonds extracted or polished exclusively in Russia. Cut or
polished diamonds from Russian rough imported from other countries
are still considered legal.
Policy loophole
The US-based Jewelers Vigilance Committee (JVC) has cautioned
members from purchasing polished or cut diamonds from Russian
rough noting that “the risk of additional future limitations is high.”
The JVC has communicated to members and pointed out that while the
importation ban from the US Department of Treasury’s Office of Foreign
Assets Control blocked the US imports of rough, cut and polished
diamonds from Russia, a policy interpretation involving cut and polished
diamonds that underwent ‘substantial transformation’ from another
country processed from a Russian rough becomes a product of that
country, and is therefore legal.
‘Substantial transformation’ refers to products or goods processed to
make a fundamental change in form or appearance to gain more value.
“Under this guidance, rough diamonds imported from Russia into a
country that has not implemented sanctions or a ban and then cut and
polished are currently legal to import into the US as they will fall under a
separate harmonised tariff code,” the JVC said.
Sara Yood, deputy general counsel, JVC told Rapaport News, “It’s a little
disappointing because it makes me think that this import ban is probably
going to have a limited effect.”
For example, rough diamonds cut and polished in Russia are prohibited
from US importation, Russian rough cut and polished in India is exempted.
“What it really hinges on is how strong the US alliance is with other
countries and whether other countries also follow suit because I think
the ultimate goal is to close off the avenues for Russia to sell these
products,” Yood said.
“The US is probably really hoping that allies step up and implement
similar sanctions.”
FINE JEWELLERY MANUFACTURERS
MARKMCASKILL.COM.AU
+61 (08) 8352 1400 | sales@markmcaskill.com.au
ADELAIDE | BANGKOK

News
Diamond Foundry announces lawsuit against US Government
Diamond Foundry, a US company manufacturing
lab grown diamonds in California, has announced
it will take legal action against the United States
Trade Office.
The company released a statement criticising the
US government for trade tariffs put in place against
China during the Trump administration.
The tariffs penalise businesses for using diamond
polishing services in China to a degree which
Diamond Foundry states exceeds the cost of the
manufacturing service itself.
No changes have been made since the transfer
between the Trump and Biden administrations in
the US and a statement by Diamond Foundry said
that legal action was now required.
“When Trump introduced trade tariffs against
China in four, ever more aggressive tranches, the
polishing of diamonds in China was included with
a penalty that exceeds the cost of the contract
manufacturing service added in China.
“This egregious amount stems from the fact that
the tariff is applied as a percentage of the market
value of the polished diamond re-imported --
rather than the value of the polishing contract
service (which itself turns out less than the tariff
for diamonds).”
It claims that “the Biden administration adopted
these Trump tariffs without revisiting them. We do
not believe that doubling the cost of a product or
service of a peaceful country is appropriate for the
United States government to effect overnight, or
any good trade policy.
“After thorough review, we have therefore taken
legal action. The lawsuit action we are taking is
largely based on a technicality of how Trump got
specific timelines wrong but so be it. Our lawsuit
largely follows what Tesla and others have been
claiming as well.”
Diamond Foundry was established in 2012 by
Martin Roscheisen and Jeremy Scholz and is a
producer of lab-created diamonds which are grown
using plasma physics in a San Francisco laboratory.
In the lead up to the lawsuit announcement,
Diamond Foundry had been publicly critical of
the US approach to sanctioning Russia on both a
corporate and governmental level.
On Twitter in February, Diamond Foundry criticised
Brilliant Earth, among many US retailers, for
selling diamonds sourced in Russia, primary by
Alrosa, the nation’s biggest mining company.
The company’s postion was that the current tariffs
make doing business for local manufacturers too
difficult with little justification.
“In general we believe the United States
government should work to support domestic
manufacturers like Diamond Foundry as opposed
to making life difficult for them.
“No diamond producer in India or Russia is
exposed to these Trump/Biden tariffs.
“Russian diamonds have been okay to import
tariff free whereas polishing in China was
massively penalised. And of course now with the
sanctions in effect, it still remains to be seen
what happens to all these diamonds mined in
Russia that are then polished in India - where
they thus become India-origin diamonds
according to the US Trade Office.”
FIND US ON INSTAGRAM
MILLENNIUM_CHAIN
Australian leading wholesaler, specialising in manufacturing
9ct and 18ct yellow gold, rose gold and white gold.
Machine made and hand made, any kind, chains and bracelets,
bangles and findings. Suppliers to retailers and wholesalers.
MILLENNIUM CHAIN
P: 03 9650 5955 | E: sales@millenniumchain.com.au
www.millenniumchain.com.au

News
Mejuri counters Yurman IP infringement lawsuit, denies ‘copycat’ tag
Canadian jewellery company Mejuri has
responded to the IP infringement lawsuit filed by
US-based designer David Yurman alleging that
the legal action is “an effort to bully and stifle an
emerging competitor”.
In documents submitted before the US Southern
District Court of New York, Mejuri “did not copy
Yurman’s designs”, adding the classic jewellery
designs “have been used for centuries— designs
that are ubiquitous in the jewellery industry today.”
Mejuri also claimed the Yurman complaint is
“replete with unsubstantiated allegations and
unnecessary personal attacks on Mejuri and its
founders that have nothing to do with intellectual
property or Yurman’s alleged concerns.”
The company also claimed that the designs in
question were products “independently designed
and developed” by Mejuri based on “well-known,
common motifs—like twist designs—that have been
used in jewellery since at least the Roman Empire”.
Mejuri also denied the likelihood of confusion
between its products and Yurman’s as both
companies’ products “are never sold in the same
stores”, noting that other competitor brands “more
well-known than Mejuri” also used similar designs
but were never reprimanded by Yurman.
“Yurman apparently has taken no action against
these brands and instead has chosen to target
Mejuri by bringing an anti-competitive attack on
a smaller, but rapidly growing, challenger that is
modernising a traditional industry,” the defence
stated.
Mejuri’s lawyers also sought to dismiss the
trade dress violation charges, claiming it does
not infringe and dilute the alleged trade dress in
violation of New York General Business Law.
Responding to Mejuri’s counterclaims, Jay Neukom,
an attorney for Yurman, told JCK, “It’s common for
companies caught copying others’ designs to argue
that the design is free for the taking.”
“Mejuri’s weak attempt to excuse its conduct by
citing the Roman Empire and its own corporate
mission statement does not change the facts.
Yurman’s complaint has side-by-side pictures that
show how Mejuri’s ‘in-house’ designs mimic David
Yurman, Boucheron, and Lagos. We look forward
to making this misconduct even clearer as the case
proceeds,” he added.
In December 2021, Yurman alleged venture capitalbacked
rival Mejuri for copying several distinctive
jewellery designs that bore striking similarities with
Yurman’s Pure Form and Sculpted Cable collections.
The Yurman complaint was filed in the New York
Southern District federal court for infringement
based on dilution of Yurman trade dress and
violations of the state’s business law.
Trade dress is a type of US trademark law that
extends to the configuration (design and shape)
of a product itself. If the overall image serves to
distinguish the source of a product, or service from
those of its competitors, one or more elements
that make up the trade dress may satisfy the
requirements for registration as a trademark.
Yurman sought an injunction against Mejuri for
manufacturing products that “infringe” on the
specified designs and demand the finished pieces
be “melted down.” The company sought redress
for unspecified damages.
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WORLD RANKINGS OF JEWELLERY
INDUSTRY PUBLICATIONS
As at 31 December 2021 Jeweller was ranked 54,878, in the world,
well ahead of other jewellery industry titles in more populous
countries. For example, the US magazines JCK, National Jeweler,
and Instore ranked 82,055, 134,498, and 238,570 respectively, even
though the population of the US is much larger than Australia.
POSITION PUBLICATION COUNTRY
WORLD
RANKING
1 Jeweller Australia 54,878
2 JCK USA 82,055
3 National Jeweler USA 134,498
4 Instore Magazine USA 238,570
5 Diamond World India 256,670
6 Retail Jeweller India 269,464
7 Jewellery Net Asia Hong Kong 307,988
8 Professional Jeweller UK 580,385
9 The Jewelry Magazine India 613,901
10 Jewellery Outlook UK 692,146
11 Jewellery Business Canada 745,214
12 Art of Jewellery India 769,354
Leaders and numbers
have one thing in common...
13 Jewellery World Australia 1,087,006
14 Solitaire Magazine Singapore 1,142,751
15 Indian Jeweller India 1,203,543
16 Retail Jeweller Magazine UK 1,305,323
17 Jewellery Focus UK 1,846,557
18 Preziosa Magazine Italy 2,198,671
19 The New Jeweller UAE / India 2,745,417
Jeweller has been the leading voice of the Australian and New Zealand jewellery
industries for 25 years, and today we rank #1 in the world.
Alexa, the independent global ranking system for measuring website traffic and
readership, now ranks jewellermagazine.com as the most widely read industry
publication in the world – by far!
Better still, the daily time spent on jewellermagazine.com averages 29 minutes, which
far exceeds all other international publications, which average only 2–3 minutes per
visitor. Moreover, our page views is miles ahead of all other industry publications.
Moreover, Jeweller’s social media presence dominates and our eMags boast more
than 12.3 million reads.
The numbers speak for themselves - follow the leader, and follow the readers too!
20 Canadian Jeweller Canada 3,726,881
21 The Retail Jeweler USA 4,158,087
22 Gold Book Magazine Turkey 4,942,352
23 Jewellery Monthly UK 5,386,955
24 Jewellers Network South Africa 6,005,766
25 Bangkok Gems & Jewellery Thailand NO DATA
26 Hong Kong Jewellery Magazine Hong Kong NO DATA
27 Jewel Trendz India NO DATA
28 Jewellery Time New Zealand NO DATA
29 Solitaire International Singapore NO DATA
POSITION
TRADING PLATFORM /
PUBLICATION
COUNTRY
WORLD
RANKING
1 Rapaport Magazine* USA 48,447
2 Idex* Israel 84,120
VOICE OF THE AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY INDUSTRY
Denotes titles connected to diamond trading platforms / publication

NUMBER OF PAGES VIEWED BY READERS
TIME SPENT ON JEWELLERY WEBSITES
BOUNCE RATE / PAGE 'STICKINESS’
Page Views is the number of times a reader visits any page
on a website. A higher Page View figure the better, because it
means readers are more engaged in the content. Jeweller’s
Page View count of 22 leads all websites while most others
can only record a single Page View before the reader leaves.
Time-on-Page is the average time a reader spends on a page
while Time-On-Site is how long they spend on the site each
day. Jeweller leads the world with a Daily Time of 29.6 minutes,
while most other publications only manage 1-2 minutes. The
more time spent on a website, the better the global ranking.
The Bounce Rate measures the percentage of visits that
consist of only a single page view. It indicates the percentage
of readers that land on a website, and immediately leave
(‘bounce off’) meaning a low bounce rate is optimal. Alexa
records Jeweller’s Bounce Rate at less than 23 per cent.
POSITION PUBLICATION COUNTRY PAGE VIEWS
POSITION PUBLICATION COUNTRY
DAILY TIME
(IN MINUTES)
POSITION PUBLICATION COUNTRY
BOUNCE
RATE
1 Jeweller Australia 22.00
2 Retail Jeweller India 9.00
3 Jewellery Net Asia Hong Kong 3.60
4 The Jewelry Magazine India 2.10
5 Jewellery Business Canada 2.00
6 Diamond World India 2.00
7 Jewellery Focus UK 2.00
8 Retail Jeweller Magazine UK 2.00
9 Indian Jeweller India 2.00
10 The New Jeweller UAE / India 2.00
11 Canadian Jeweller Canada 2.00
12 The Retail Jeweler USA 2.00
13 Jewellery Outlook UK 1.80
14 Instore Magazine USA 1.80
15 National Jeweler USA 1.70
16 JCK USA 1.70
17 Professional Jeweller UK 1.50
18 Art of Jewellery India 1.40
19 Solitaire Magazine Singapore 1.00
20 Jewellery World Australia 1.00
21 Preziosa Magazine Italy 1.00
22 Gold Book Magazine Turkey 1.00
23 Jewellery Monthly UK 1.00
24 Jewellers Network South Africa 1.00
25 Bangkok Gems & Jewellery Thailand NO DATA
26 Solitaire International Singapore NO DATA
27 Jewel Trendz India NO DATA
28 Hong Kong Jewellery Magazine Hong Kong NO DATA
29 Jewellery Time New Zealand NO DATA
1 Jeweller Australia 29:60
2 Retail Jeweller India 20:06
3 National Jeweler USA 15:50
4 Jewellery Business Canada 02:17
5 Diamond World India 02:15
6 Jewellery Outlook UK 02:11
7 JCK USA 01:56
8 Professional Jeweller UK 01:55
9 Jewellery Focus UK 01:51
10 Jewellery Net Asia Hong Kong 01:44
11 The Jewelry Magazine India 01:43
12 Instore Magazine USA 01:42
13 Art of Jewellery India 01:38
14 Retail Jeweller Magazine UK 01:11
15 Solitaire Magazine Singapore 01:10
16 Indian Jeweller India 00:54
17 Jewellery World Australia 00:30
18 Preziosa Magazine Italy NO DATA
19 The New Jeweller UAE / India NO DATA
20 Canadian Jeweller Canada NO DATA
21 The Retail Jeweler USA NO DATA
22 Gold Book Magazine Turkey NO DATA
23 Jewellery Monthly UK NO DATA
24 Jewellers Network South Africa NO DATA
25 Bangkok Gems & Jewellery Thailand NO DATA
26 Solitaire International Singapore NO DATA
27 Jewel Trendz India NO DATA
28 Hong Kong Jewellery Magazine Hong Kong NO DATA
29 Jewellery Time New Zealand NO DATA
1 Jeweller Australia 22.80%
2 Jewellery Net Asia Hong Kong 33.80%
3 Retail Jeweller India 38.70%
4 Professional Jeweller UK 50.00%
5 Jewellery Outlook UK 52.00%
6 Jewellery Business Canada 55.00%
7 Art of Jewellery India 59.10%
8 Indian Jeweller India 60.00%
9 Diamond World India 61.50%
10 The Jewelry Magazine India 63.60%
11 Retail Jeweller Magazine UK 66.70%
12 National Jeweler USA 68.30%
13 Solitaire Magazine Singapore 70.00%
14 JCK USA 72.70%
15 Instore Magazine USA 73.40%
16 Jewellery World Australia 92.30%
17 Jewellery Focus UK NO DATA
18 Preziosa Magazine Italy NO DATA
19 The New Jeweller UAE / India NO DATA
20 Canadian Jeweller Canada NO DATA
21 The Retail Jeweler USA NO DATA
22 Gold Book Magazine Turkey NO DATA
23 Jewellery Monthly UK NO DATA
24 Jewellers Network South Africa NO DATA
25 Bangkok Gems & Jewellery Thailand NO DATA
26 Solitaire International Singapore NO DATA
27 Jewel Trendz India NO DATA
28 Hong Kong Jewellery Magazine Hong Kong NO DATA
29 Jewellery Time New Zealand NO DATA
POSITION
TRADING PLATFORM /
PUBLICATION
COUNTRY
PAGE VIEWS
POSITION
TRADING PLATFORM /
PUBLICATION
COUNTRY
DAILY TIME
(IN MINUTES)
POSITION
TRADING PLATFORM /
PUBLICATION
COUNTRY
BOUNCE
RATE
1 Idex* Israel 3.50
2 Rapaport Magazine* USA 1.70
1 Rapaport Magazine* USA 02:25
2 Idex* Israel 02:19
1 Rapaport Magazine* USA 60.60%
2 Idex* Israel 75.80%
All data collated as at 31 December 2021

On The Market
1 2 3
4
5
APRIL
Product
Spotlight
Jeweller’s monthly compiled
snapshot of the latest and greatest
products to hit the market.
6 7
8
1 ANIA HAIE | Duraflex Group This stunning and simple chain is complete with three turquoise-colour stones, lined up for a modern twist on turquoise jewellery. The perfect piece to elevate your everyday
ring game, this signet-style turquoise stone ring is complete with a chunky square cut turquoise-colour stone. 2 SAPPHIRE DREAMS | Sams Group The Marcella Dream Ring showcases an exquisite
radiant cut 2.88-carat, teal Australian sapphire. It is surrounded by a striking halo of 18 white diamonds and set in 18-carat white and yellow gold. 3 FURLA | Designa Accessories Furla's striking 32
mm round watch sits on a hammered bracelet framed by a stone-set rose-gold tone case. The dial is made of black mother-of-pearl with stone markers and the Furla Arch logo. Available in gold and silver.
4 MARK MCASKILL Be swept away by this diamond celebration ring set in 950 platinum, featuring 53 brilliant white diamonds equalling approximately 3.53 carats. 5 DESERT ROSE | Ellendale Diamonds
This 18-carat white androse gold trilogy statement ring features round diamond F VVS 0.72 carats, and two bezel set pear-cut Argyle pink diamonds that are 6PP SIAV totalling 0.122 carats. 7 CALVIN KLEIN
| MGDL Calvin Klein's gold mesh light champagne dial unisex watch is part of a new line aimed at the youthful and trendy. The model is also water resistant (3ATM) in a 35mm ionic thin gold plated steel case.
8 STONES AND SILVER New 925 sterling silver unisex ID bracelets feature a curb chain. Available in a 21cm bracelet with engraving plates sized 6mm x 38mm or larger at 8mm x 40mm.

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10 Years Ago
Time Machine: April 2012
A snapshot of the industry events making headlines this time 10 years ago in Jeweller.
Historic Headlines
4 Overseas travel affects retail spending
4 Angelina gets dazzling diamond
4 iWedding: De Beers launch new bridal app
4 Michael Hill Australian sales fall
4 Records Tumble at Hong Kong Jewellery Show
Australian watchmakers take
a stand
A movement has started to maintain Australian
watchmakers’ rights to access Swiss watch
parts, with more than 1,000 people already
showing their support.
The group, Save-The-Time.org, is responding to
the growing restriction of distribution of watch
parts from major Swiss watch companies to
independent jewellers.
Save-The-Time.org spokesperson Nicholas Hacko
said that when a number accounts of watchmakers
who had worked with some major Swiss brands
for decades, one almost 50 years, were closed
as of April 1 a group of Australian watch makers
decided enough was enough and took to the
internet to seek support.
Hacko says that in the three weeks since the group
has been flooded with support, with more than
1,000 people already signing petitions to take to the
ACCC in an attempt to force the Swiss companies
to share the parts required to repair watches.
Possible end to De Beers
antitrust case
The US Supreme Court has declined to hear
an appeal in the De Beers antitrust settlement,
which could bring an end to the long running
saga.
The famous case, in which a class action was
brought against De Beers accusing the company
of diamond price fixing, was settled in 2006
and the mining giant was ordered to pay over
$US400 million to both trade and consumer
diamond and diamond jewellery buyers.
However, no one has yet seen a dollar, as class
action lawyers demand alterations to the
settlement.
April 2012
ON THE COVER Braun Watches
Editor’s Desk
4Euro trash: “How many American
jewellery brands can you name
compared to European brands?
Why are more EuroBrands marching
Down Under?
The rest of the world may march to the
beat of America’s drum when it comes
to music, fashion, fast food, electronics,
sportswear, television and a swathe of
other areas, however, when it comes to
high-end jewellery, the US doesn’t count.
The European brands have dominated
the local market recently … perhaps;
generally speaking, US jewellery
designs are too loud for the average
Australian consumer.
Soapbox
4 Get involved in your industry :
“It doesn’t matter where you go,
everyone has an opinion based on
their experiences within the trade, and
rightly so. Some shrug their shoulders
with defeat stating there is nothing
they can do to change the current
situation, or they are simply tired of it.
Others divulge their opinion but don’t
attend meetings to put this attitude to
good use. ”
– Lee-Anne Minturn - President,
Jewellery Industry Association in New
Zealand.
STILL RELEVANT 10 YEARS ON
Why customer service is like dating
We do not really sell the products on the
shelf we sell customer service. This is
what sets one store apart from others.
Customer service should be viewed as an
exercise in problem solving: customers
come into the store with a need; it is the
staff’s job to solve the problem by finding
something that meets that need.
Australians learn from
diamond master
Members of Nationwide Jewellers took
workplace training to another level last
month when they were given a chance to
work one-on-one with Gabi Tolkowsky.
The members were given a hands-on lesson
in diamond polishing from the iconic diamond
cutter in Antwerp, polishing a facet each on a
piece of rough diamond under his supervision.
The jewellers who were selected for the
master classes were also some of the first
jewellers in the world to be appointed as
stockists of Tolkowsky’s most recent diamond
cut, the ‘Astralis’.
Gold Coast jewellery store
ransacked
A Gold Coast jewellery store has been raided
in a brazen smash and grab theft with up to
$500,000 in stock stolen.
Jeweller last reported on a store robbery
when a methodical gang of thieves executed
a meticulous and hi-tech theft from a
jewellery retailer in Western Australia. While
by comparison the looting at Bundall’s CTJ
Jewellery seemed reckless and brutal, it
proved just as effective.
CCTV footage shows three men smashing
down CTJ Jewellery’s glass doors with a
sledgehammer at 7:20pm on March 22.
The thieves then shattered glass display
cabinets with crowbars and snatched
handfuls of stock, ultimately filling two
sports bags with jewellery.
READ ALL HEADLINES IN FULL ON
JEWELLERMAGAZINE.COM
26 | April 2022

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Pearls Part I: Freshwater
Above: Pacharee; Blue Nile; Mizuki
Below: GIA; Mizuki
Pearls – an organic gem - have been
revered pieces of treasure for thousands
of years, having adorned the necks of
nobility spanning across Persia, Babylon,
Egypt, Rome, and beyond.
Before cultured pearls became
commercially available at the beginning of
the 20th century, all pearl jewellery featured
natural pearls formed from wild molluscs.
Top quality pearls were highly expensive
and mostly reserved for royalty and the
exorbitantly wealthy.
When an irritant enters a pearl-producing
mollusc, the mollusc enlists a defence
mechanism in which it coats the irritant
in thousands of microscopic layers of its
nacre, which become the pearl.
Cultured pearls are pearls that have grown
over a bead nucleus or tissue irritant that
humans have intentionally placed into
the mollusc. This can be done in various
species of mollusc, in both marine and
freshwater environments.
Natural freshwater pearls are currently
very rare, with most known localities now
protected by law.
Throughout history, natural freshwater
pearls have been found in most countries
all over the world, though the United
States was once one of the larger
producers. Scotland is another important
historical source.
The GIA and other institutions are
currently developing techniques for the
DNA barcoding of freshwater pearls, to
understand them better and identify them.
The culturing of freshwater pearls initially
began in Lake Biwa, Japan during the
1920s. It was in the freshwater mussel
Hyriopsis schlegeli at Lake Biwa where
the successful cultivation of pearls with
mantle tissue alone (instead of a bead
nucleus) was achieved.
A combination of pollution issues and an
improvement in quality of pearls coming
from China saw the collapse of the oncebooming
production at Lake Biwa. Today,
cultured freshwater pearls are largely
grown in ponds, lakes, and rivers in China.
Compared with other pearl varieties,
freshwater pearls have a particularly large
range of sizes, from as little as

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DIAMOND FEATURE
Russian Ukraine Conflict
THE
RUSSIAN
QUESTION
The Ukraine conflict and the resulting sanctions
on Russia have had a major impact on the
international diamond industry. ROBERT BOUQUET
analyses the affect on the distribution pipelines
and what’s in store for the jewellery sector.
Luminous Diamonds | Alrosa
32 | March 2021

RUS SI A'S PRIDE
Alrosa's
Record Roughs
by ROBERT BOUQUET
242-carats
White Diamond
February 2021
'The Spectacle' is Alrosa's
largest polished white
diamond. The 100.94-carat
rectangular step-cut diamond
was sold at Christie's in May 2021
for US $14.1 million.
It seems like only yesterday that I was reporting
that the diamond trading centres had
kicked-off the year in a bullish mood and
that there were significant price increases at the
most recent De Beers’ ‘sight’ and that “Alrosa is
expected to follow suit”.
Over the past two years and during the pandemic I had
predicted the diamond industry would recover to much
better times as economies revive, consumer spending
accelerates and demand for the one product that provides
the ultimate expression of love matches the level of
emotional response and outpouring that the world
understandably feels the need to make after COVID-19.
It was only three months ago I concluded that 2022 was
going to be exciting. The industry had a lot of opportunity in
front of it, mining companies were facing a potential bumper
year and the trade must be careful in maintaining margins
throughout the pipeline.
Even though the diamond industry was facing a rosy period,
I also noted that it faced risk on the macroeconomic side,
including geopolitical threats between Russia and the West
over Ukraine. I also noted seemingly worsening relations
between China and the West and increasing energy costs.
I concluded by saying: “Hopefully, none of these issues will
destabilise the positive momentum of the diamond industry;
but these are areas of risk.”
Well, there is no doubt that times have changed.
The current state of play
At the time of writing, the diamond industry is in a confused
state. In recent times the rough diamond segment has
boomed with continuously rising polished prices, diamond
jewellery retail sales surging in the US and recovering in
China; marginal diamond miners performing much better
against a backdrop of seemingly constantly increasing
rough prices.
And yet even though we operate in a unique, exciting and
often dazzling business, we must always remember that the
diamond industry is not immune to external economic and
geopolitical pressures.
Alrosa is the world’s largest producer of rough diamonds
by carats, producing around 32 million carats per annum,
which equates to about 30 per cent of the world supply. It
has the world’s largest diamond reserves (over 1 billion
carats in the ground). The Russian company is expected
236-carats
Intense yellow-brown diamond
August 2020
191.46-carats
White diamond
January 2019
"Sputnik V"
100.53-carats
Yellow diamond
February 2021
"Kyndykan"
91.86-carats
Yellow-brown diamond
January 2022
"Nijinsky"
27.85-carats
Pink diamond
September 2017
to stay in ‘pole position’ as the largest producer for many
years to come.
While there are a number of mining companies operating
in Russia, Alrosa produces more than 90 per cent of all
diamonds. Alrosa also has diamond mining projects in
Angola and exploration development in Zimbabwe, but the
current focus is very much on diamonds being exported
from Russia.
Alrosa is owned 33 per cent by the Russian government,
33 per cent by the Republic of Sakha (in the far east of
Russia, where most of the Russian diamonds are mined)
with the balance being traded on the Moscow Exchange
(Russian stock market).
At the end of February, Alrosa’s share price fell to a low of
68.00 rubles ($US0.62) compared with the 12-month high
of 150 rubles ($US1.37).
Alrosa is the world’s largest producer of rough
diamonds by carats, producing around 32 million
carats per annum, which equates to about
30 per cent of the world supply.
The Russian invasion of Ukraine has created an extremely
volatile and unpredictable situation. It’s a situation that is
certainly out of the hands of the diamond industry itself.
People are dying in Ukraine and for some worrying about
the diamond industry may seem trite.
At the time of publication, sanctions have been further
strengthened against Russian diamond interests. The first
step was sanctions imposed on both Alrosa and its CEO.
The initial sanctions were designed to reduce Russia’s ability
to finance its military operations; in Alrosa’s case specifically
to ‘prohibit transactions and dealings by U.S. persons or
within the United States in new debt of longer than 14 days
maturity and new equity.’
This meant that Alrosa was initially prevented from raising
funds over a period of more than 14 days. But what did this
mean in practice?
It actually meant that the sales of rough could still take
place; and sales are still taking place. Some transactions
are being made in alternative currencies such as rubles or
euros - this was an option that Alrosa had been previously
considering offering to its clients anyway.
Rough diamonds can be shipped using different methods
April 2022 | 33

Russian Ukraine Conflict | DIAMOND FEATURE
TOP 5 LARGEST DIAMOND MINING COMPANIES IN THE WORLD (BY CARATS)
1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
31.2 MILLION CARATS
HEADQUARTERED IN Russia
30.78 MILLION CARATS
HEADQUARTERED IN England
23.3 MILLION CARATS
HEADQUARTERED IN Botswana
17.03 MILLION CARATS
HEADQUARTERED IN England &
Australia
6.7 MILLION CARATS
HEADQUARTERED IN Canada
Data as at January 2020
CHART A: TOP 10 GLOBAL DIAMOND PRODUCING COUNTRIES (BY CARATS)
Russia
Botswana
Canada
Congo
Australia
South Africa
Angola
Zimbabwe
Namibia
Sierra Leone
Source: The Kimberley Process (2020); theglobaleconomy.com
CHART B: US POLISHED DIAMOND IMPORTS BY COUNTRY
COUNTRY VALUE IN USD CARATS AVG / CARAT
India $7,022,346,717 6,227,690 $1,127.60
Israel $3,466,975,554 1,148,337 $3,019.13
Belgium $1,484,126,309 301,259 $4,926.41
Switzerland $645,757,833 9,434 $68,450.06
South Africa $493,867,084 25,020 $19,738.89
Russia $259,385,207 35,949 $7,215.37
Botswana $139,966,897 22,051 $6,347.42
UAE $111,982,292 27,786 $4,030.17
Australia $61,481,172 23,799 $2,583.35
Hong Kong $56,142,439 24,897 $2,254.99
Source: edahngolan.com/diamond-statistics (2020)

Alrosa's gem-quality stones which
also include a 242-carat rough.
and routes, even looking for more ‘friendly’ transit points.
However, Alrosa is not able to raise equity, or cash and debt for capital
investments such as mining project development. However, this is an
issue for the longer-term, and not the immediate future.
The shipping of polished ‘on memo’ is also hampered; but this is not a
major component of the Russian diamond trade and is more of a longerterm
issue anyway, if it’s at all significant.
Many people within the diamond and jewellery industry, as well as those
external to it, are asking: “Should the entire global trade of all rough from
Russia be blocked immediately?”.
It is actually hard to see how it can be fully stopped globally; and who
would actually make that decision. This is a truly multi-national industry.
Polished versus Rough
Rough diamonds have Kimberley Process (KP) certificates and therefore
have clear provenance (for their first export) of origin and a chain of
custody; most polished diamonds do not. I will come back to polished
diamonds later, but first let me address the matter of rough.
Probably the only workable mechanism, if the industry chooses to act,
is to use the Kimberley Process to stop issuing certificates for rough
diamonds, which would therefore stop the ability for anyone to export
rough diamonds to any country outside of Russia.
At the time of writing, that decision had not been taken, as far as I
am aware.
Although I suspect that a KP ban on Russian diamond exports might
be being discussed behind closed doors already it will certainly
require international agreement by the participating member
governments of the KP if this next step in blocking Russian diamonds
is indeed going to happen.
Other diamond producers might see the current situation as an
opportunity to increase prices for their non-Russian goods and lobby
for a ban on Russian rough. This may well be happening behind the
scenes. It has been said, never waste a crisis, and that is true when it
comes to your competitor!
The lobbying will certainly be happening in the spheres of the far more
influential oil and gas producers globally. To put things into some sort of
perspective, Russian rough diamonds might equate to $US4-5 billion in a
good year; this is minimal in comparison to Russian oil and gas.
Russia is among the world's largest producers of both crude oil and
dry natural gas – and the figures relating to these industries dwarf the
diamond industry by comparison.
Typically, Russian oil exports account for triple the amount of revenue
compared to its gas. Logically Russia will seek new markets for its oil
and gas, China being one obvious option. Supply shortages, high levels of
Exquisite beauty unearthed by Argyle,
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Russian Ukraine Conflict | DIAMOND FEATURE
'The Spirit of the Rose' is Alrosa's
prized polished pink diamond
that sold for US$26.6 million at a
Sotheby's auction. The 14.83-carat
Type IIa Fancy Vivid Purple-Pink
diamond is internally flawless and
cut from a 27.85-carat rough.
Above: Alrosa’s Jubilee pipe in in Yakutia, northeast Russia.
inflation and recession, and maybe even economic depression
are potentially at play here.
Therefore, while Russian diamond exports are nowhere near
oil and gas, they are not unimportant; diamond exports is
still a large number for the industry itself and in the wider
sanctions issue - especially for what is ultimately a nonessential,
luxury item.
Probably the only workable mechanism is to use
the Kimberley Process to stop issuing certificates for
rough diamonds, which would therefore stop the
ability for anyone to export rough diamonds to any
country outside of Russia.
The second development that has happened is an executive
order issued by the President of the United States prohibiting
the import of ‘non-industrial’ Russian diamonds.
This is a more direct attempt to stop the flow of Russian
diamonds into the US, however as with all these things, it
is not so straightforward. It is important to understand the
practicality of this move.
Firstly, very little Russian rough actually makes its way
directly to the US. There is minimal rough trading there,
and very little diamond polishing. For example, only the
very best stones might be polished in New York.
So the ban on what is in effect less than one per cent of
Alrosa’s revenue is more symbolic than consequential. To
give a perspective here, 35 per cent of Alrosa rough sales
are made in Europe (Antwerp in Belgium is a major rough
trading centre).
Polished is more complicated; the US is the largest consumer
market for diamond jewellery at around 40 per cent of global
diamond jewellery sales. Therefore, Russian diamonds –
remembering that Russia accounts for 30 per cent of the
annual international diamond production – certainly end up in
US retail stores and on the fingers of American women.
Yet, with few exceptions, polished diamonds are untraceable
back to their origin, which means it is difficult to see how the
US President’s executive order can work in practice.
The trade may seek to avoid ‘Russian’ polished however
around 95 per cent of the world’s diamonds are polished
in India and cannot necessarily be identified as being
produced from Alrosa rough.
36 | April 2022
STATISTICS
Alrosa in Numbers
1992
Alrosa's
established date
90%
of Russia's diamond
mining is controlled
by Alrosa
66%
is state-owned by
Russia, Yakutia and
Yakut regions
31.2 million
carats of diamonds
were mined by
Alrosa in 2020
30%
of the world's supply
of diamonds come
from Russia
$4.2 billion
is Alrosa's total
sales of rough and
polished diamonds
in 2021
The industry is watching carefully as things develop but it is
clear that the only truly effective way to impact the Russian
diamond industry is to stop the flow of Russian rough with a
global block on its movement.
The market reacts
So if we look at how the trade is reacting to these
developments the first thing that seems to be happening is an
immediate sense of market uncertainty. And all markets hate
uncertainty!
The rough market was very strong before the Russian invasion
of Ukraine. In some cases prices had doubled (or even more)
in certain categories, but now it has taken a jolt back.
It should be said that the rough market was overheating
anyway and had to contract at some point, so the conflict in
Ukraine has coincided with an expected contraction. That said,
readers should be aware that rough prices are still extremely
high. Despite an average price drop of 20 per cent (seen
at some market sales events in the past few weeks) many
diamond categories remain at near-record highs.
The trade may seek to avoid ‘Russian’ polished
however around 95 per cent of the world’s
diamonds are polished in India and cannot
necessarily be identified as being produced
from Alrosa rough.
Today, not only are we dealing with non-typical market
forces, but also a potential major global military conflict.
I expect that significant market and trading volatility will
remain for some time.
Additionally, there is uncertainty over the speed of deliveries
from Russia, and increased market nervousness. Right
now, I still expect much of the Russian rough to reach the
international trading and cutting centres, if not necessarily at
the same price levels. It really is a very unpredictable time.
Given the huge worldwide backlash against Russia – with
many companies, including global luxury brands, ceasing their
activities there, or shutting up shop (temporarily, hopefully);
or boycotts on Russian products, for example vodka being
removed from supermarket shelves – one has to wonder how
diamond sales at a consumer level will be affected.
Polished diamonds originating directly from Russia have
been banned by the US, but nowhere else. Again this is a
small part of the global diamond trade.

Alrosa named a 91.86-carat
yellow-brown rough diamond
'Kyndykan' after a young
indigenous female heroine
who symbolises resilience
and spiritual strength of the
people of Yakutia.
As I have previously noted, most polished diamonds do not have
clear provenance. While some manufacturers and retailers, such
as Tiffany & Co., have clear chains of custody and can guarantee
the origin of their polished stones; most traders, wholesalers,
jewellery manufacturers and retailers cannot provide these
guarantees. That is just a fact.
And so, if the industry wants to try to self-regulate and stop Russianorigin
polished, I can’t see how this could be implemented. If the
consumer refuses to buy Russian polished and demands non-Russian
diamonds, the only option is to buy from those retailers or traders who
can explicitly prove provenance.
The largest risk is that consumers simply refuse to buy any diamonds
due to lack of provenance from most sellers, however, at this point, I
cannot see that happening.
There will also be the economic cost caused by this global instability,
which is bound to impact on luxury spending. With fuel costs hitting
record highs and inflation on the rise, I expect that consumer spending
is sure to be impacted in the short term and we will very likely see a
contraction of spending on luxury items, diamond jewellery included.
What next for the diamond industry?
While the conflict in Ukraine continues there is a risk of a downturn,
including reduced consumer spending. It is possible that 30 per cent
of the world’s supply may be boycotted, which could benefit the
suppliers of the remaining 70 per cent.
I must say, this was not how I foresaw a modern, competitive 21stcentury
global diamond industry existing and operating. Did anyone?
The level of uncertainty around the world offers a conundrum: at
the same time rough and polished prices are at record highs and
luxury spending was booming as the world ‘exited’ the pandemic;
for now our industry still shines brightly. Diamond mining and
manufacturing does a lot of good around the world and brings
a lot of joy to millions of people.
History shows that it always bounces back after global setbacks.
We shall have to wait and see what happens next. Once the Ukraine
conflict is over - and hopefully it will be soon and doesn’t worsen
- there will always be other macro-economic challenges for the
diamond industry to navigate, but hopefully the world will be on a
firmer and less troubled footing.
ROBERT BOUQUET has more than 25 years of experience in
the diamond industry, working across mining and exploration
companies, marketing firms, and as a consultant. Based in
Antwerp, he now shares his insights into the global diamond
pipeline as part of the Natural Color Diamond Association.

BUSINESS
XX
Employees who make excuses to hide
poor results not only establish a corrosive
culture of blame sharing but also inhibit
businesses from achieving success.
ELIZABETH BOYD reports.
The #1 Jewellery Industry Directory
The greatest retail leaders are passionately
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the consequences of those decisions. Why is
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Individual
Product
Distinct Category
The matter is made worse 280+
when retail
Industry
Categories 4 Sections 520
Suppliers
trading and economic times are difficult
such as what is currently being experienced.
AUSTRALIA’S
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CLINICALLY SPEAKING Supplier - Are you and your products listed? Retailer – Get your copy?
Psychologists place excuse making in
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a behaviour that hurts performance, Not only is the Supplier Directory the largest and most comprehensive
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It serves as a distraction that prevents the
38 Jeweller September 2018
www.jewellermagazine.com
XX
500+
Jewellery &
Watch Brands

TRADE FEATURE
Watch Industry Report
BUSINESS
XX
Employees who make excuses to hide
poor results not only establish a corrosive
culture of blame sharing but also inhibit
businesses from achieving success.
ELIZABETH BOYD reports.
The greatest retail leaders are passionately
objective about their performances,
derive a tremendous sense of professional
accomplishment from possessing an
elevated level of personal accountability and
are committed and authentic truth-tellers.
Furthermore, they don’t make excuses; they
make decisions good and bad then endure
the consequences of those decisions. Why is
there an overwhelming compulsion in retail
to excuse poor or ‘adequate’ performances?
The matter is made worse when retail
trading and economic times are difficult
such as what is currently being experienced.
WATCH
INDUSTRY
Unification or Division?
CLINICALLY SPEAKING
Baselworld was once a symbol of global unity, offering a space for
Psychologists place excuse making in the watch industry at large to gather annually. MARTIN FOSTER
the category of self-handicapping – it’s explains that in a post-pandemic world, such a unity between
a behaviour that hurts performance, Swiss and international brands may never be seen again.
motivation and professional reputation.
It serves as a distraction that prevents the
XX
Inhorgenta Munich 2020
September 2018 Jeweller 39

Above: Crowds gathered for was to be the last Baselword in 2019 before the pandemic.
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W
e are witnessing the strong return of confidence
of the luxury watch industry in Europe and
globally as we learn how to handle the twists
qand turns of the pandemic.
However, travel to the industry trade fairs for both retailers and suppliers
to see the newest products and latest collections remains, in some cases,
fraught with the politically inept decisions taken by those in power.
The fairs and exhibition organisers are still sorting out how best to protect
themselves, while the exhibiting brands, visitors and the media are still
assessing what the future holds.
At the end of January, with only eight weeks to go, Watches and Wonders
in Geneva formally confirmed it would proceed with the spray of
scheduled promo events in Geneva from 30 March – 5 April 2022.
A revamped Baselworld was abandoned in late November when MCH
Group management announced that “Baselworld spring 2022 will not
take place” and that it had “decided to take more time for the launch of
the new concept”.
We should note here that from the retrospective viewpoint of the retail
buyers, distributing agents as well as the international media, Baselworld
was a complete experience and an enjoyable event in all respects. It had
traditionally catered for all exhibitors, large and small, and generally
provided the exposure, which is central to the raison d’être of trade fairs.
That said, it is the third consecutive year that the world’s once premier
jewellery and watch exhibition has been cancelled.
The organisers at Baselworld know the world has changed since it first
canceled the show in 2020 because of COVID-19, but the truth is you can
read a lot more into the future of Baselworld based on the statement on
the organiser’s website.
“This decision [to cancel Baselworld 2022] is based on the one hand on
the experience gained from the Pop Up Event at the Geneva Watch Days
and on intensive discussions with manufacturers and retailers.
“On the other hand, it takes into account the fact that it is particularly
difficult to launch a new concept for a new target segment due to the
mgdldistribution.com.au

EST. 1981
GREAT WATCHES DESERVE
A GREAT WATCH BATTERY
Above: The 2021 Watches and Wonders Shanghai was a new opportunity for watch companies to connect again.
renewed aggravation of the COVID situation and
the associated uncertainty among customers,”
the statement reads.
It goes onto explain that a MCH Group
interdisciplinary team will “analyse the
target segments and, in close exchange with
manufacturers and retailers, make a deep dive
into their marketing and transaction needs. We
hope to come back to you soon with new and
positive news about the future of Baselworld.”
There has been much written about how
Baselworld came to such an ignominious ‘end’,
or at least dire predicament, however this is now
obscured by the nonsense of how it would or could
be relaunched with digital meetings, on-screen
touch-and-feel product launches, digital lunches,
and 24/7 meetings.
However, as has previously been documented,
much of the demise of the once magnificent
event lies at the feet the city of Basel and it’s local
businesses which treated the 120,000 annual
visitors to the fair as defenseless cash-cows.
They were gouged on a relentless scale, at the
same time as the fair management mishandled
the interests and exhibition fees of its clients.
Therefore, any defence of the status quo was
thin on the ground when the disgruntled big end
of town – Rolex, Patek Philippe, Tudor, Chanel,
and Chopard – abruptly withdrew their historic
support for the fair.
So, after three cancellations and the turmoil
before COVID-19, resulting in the various
walkouts by the prestigious brands, what
does the future hold for Baselworld?
Perhaps that question has already been answered
– though not announced – and a better question
now is: what does the future hold for one, allencompassing
international watch exhibition?
Rest assured if any version of Baselworld
re-emerges at some future date then it will be a
very different experience - even if for all the wrong
reasons. That said, most industry pundits believe
it’s most unlikely that Baselworld will survive the
wreckage inflicted on this once fine, historical and
significant event.
If correct, the Swiss should acknowledge the old
adage: greed, in the end, fails even the greedy!
The international watch market will continue,
and some argue, thrive without Baselworld, in
a post-COVID world; but what might it look like?
Well, for a start, forget the nonsense of virtual
exhibitions and hybrid shows!
For a start, there are a number of smaller, more
‘exclusive’ events, which have emerged to fill the
needs of face-to-face, ‘hands-on’ assessment of
new timepieces, even if they provide only limited
PR to help the brands to endure the uncertainty in
a post-pandemic world.
A case in point is The London Watch Show with
84 exhibitors scheduled over two days in late
March. Additionally, a third exhibition in Geneva
called Time to Watches with 50 exhibiting brands
was also announced. It is scheduled for 31 March
to 3 April and is located only 10 minutes away
from Watches and Wonders’ Palexpo venue.
Of course, these smaller shows are not on the
scale of the once mighty Baselworld or the luxury
focus of Watches and Wonders (SIHH), which
takes over Geneva for a week in April. Nor are
they intended to be.
However, there already is evidence that a Basel-
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March 2021 | 41

Watch Industry Report| TRADE FEATURE
like ‘disease’ may be developing in Geneva with some hotels doubling
prices leading up to, and during, the Watches and Wonders dates.
Greed can be contagious, especially when unacknowledged.
This begs the question: is it time to get the Swiss watch brands out of
Switzerland for their annual presentations of new product?
Would the industry be better served to defocus on Switzerland as the
only place to host the most important annual trade event?
For a start, it’s important to ‘divorce’ the industry from – what has
become a predominant Swiss ‘sport’ – of financially gouging your own
customers and show visitors each year, before you have sold one watch?
Accepting that there should be one pivotal event on which the global
watch industry can focus annually, perhaps the attention should now shift
to Germany’s Inhorgenta Munich Show.
Inhorgenta announced that it would shift its dates this year – from
February to 8-11 April – to give it a better chance of proceeding in a far
more benign period of global pandemic restrictions.
And herein lies a potential sleeping giant; Inhorgenta is perfectly placed
to step into Baselworld’s shoes.
It is a Baselworld-style trade fair with the capacity of the same scale.
It offers six modern spacious halls and is assisted by an experienced and
stable organiser and management team offering ideal opportunities for
both large and small exhibitors.
There already is evidence that a Basel-like ‘disease’ may be
developing in Geneva with some hotels doubling prices leading
up to, and during, the Watches and Wonders dates.
Greed can be contagious, especially when unacknowledged.
Above: 2021 London Watch Show.
Better still, Inhorgenta’s April dates make it easily possible for the watch
brands, buyers, distributors, and media to travel to Geneva for Watches
and Wonders from 30 March – 6 April and then move on to Inhorgenta
Munich two days later. It seems for once some useful logistical thought
went into the planning.
In the same way as Baselworld exhibited watches, jewellery, clocks,
tools, equipment and all the associated branches of these industries,
Inhorgenta currently does the same, albeit with less watch focus.
At the time of writing, there were 280 registered exhibitors for Inhorgenta
2022, which translates into a huge potential for new starters to register
even in the short time before the April opening.
Inhorgenta provides the ideal landing point for the return of watch brands
exhibitors who have been left stranded by the ‘closure’ of Baselworld.
Prophetically 20 years ago, the then editor of the prestigious Horological
Journal, Timothy Treffry, commented in the February 2002 issue: “The
facilities Inhorgenta has to offer are outstanding. With up to 165,000m² of
contiguous exhibition space and 50,000 hotel rooms within 30 minutes by
underground, Basel’s accommodation problems, in both senses, would
be solved if it moved there.”
Certainly, the potential is now there for Inhorgenta Munich to resume
its place with a strong and significant leadership role in the annual
horological trade fairs calendar.
In ‘normal’ times, there would or could be another option: Hong Kong.
Its annual Watch and Clock Fair traditionally held each September which
could be seen as an opportunity to remove the focus on Switzerland,
however with its recent ‘politics’, along with the impact COVID-19 is
still having on the Chinese territory, the risk would be too great.
You only need to consider that the organiser of the Jewellery & Gem
World (JGW) exhibition has announced that this year’s exhibition will
take place in Singapore, not Hong Kong.
JGW is owned by the London-based Informa Markets and while there is
no doubt that COVID has played a part in the decision to move country,
one must wonder if it’s about testing the waters for future changes, given
J S P R I N G S WAT C H E S . C O M

2022: CALENDAR OF EVENTS
Above: Inhorgenta Munich
DATE EVENT LOCATION
11 – 14 February 2022 Inhorgenta Munich Messe München, Munich, Germany
18 -20 March 2022 The London Watch Show City of Westminster, London, England
30 March – 5 April 2022 Watches & Wonders Geneva Palexpo, Geneva, Switzerland
8 –11 June 2022 EPHJ - EPMT - SMT Palexpo, Geneva, Switzerland
6 –10 September 2022 Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair HKCEC, Hong Kong
MAD & ASSOCIATES
the geopolitical risks of Hong Kong.
At the time of publication, it had been reported that
Hong Kong has the highest death rate per capita in
the world - higher than London, Milan or New York
at the peak of the world’s deadliest global waves.
One in 20 COVID-19 patients are dying. COVID
deaths have reached a level where Hong Kong
has run out of coffins!
An industry divided
While the thought of Baselworld never returning
is not something that people would wish for, the
world has changed to such a degree since early
2020 that following three years of cancellations
and half-hearted attempts at saving the show, it’s
a distinct possibility that Baselworld will go the
way of the dinosaur.
While the thought of the Swiss brands throwing
their weight and support behind a German
show as a step towards filling the gap for one
all-encompassing show to replace Baselworld
is a pipe dream, the industry must consider the
ramifications of the prestigious and high-status
Swiss brands continuing to go it alone – divorced
from the wider industry.
It’s one thing for the pre-eminent brands to set
themselves apart from the rest of the industry
at Baselworld by being located in the famous
Hall 1; at least it was done under the guise of an
international event.
The separation was part of a celebration of the
entire watch and clock industry and allowed
everyone to be amazed at the beauty of what we do.
The famous US boxer Sugar Ray Leonard said it
best: Within our dreams and aspirations we find
our opportunities.
Baselworld was the opportunity, however I feel
its demise will have far reaching ramifications,
especially if Inhorgenta steps successfully into
the gap.
And if that occurs instead of a unified international
industry we might see it divided; one separated by
an 1,800 kilometre border physically creating two
territories, Switzerland and the rest of the world.
While this has probably been how the actual market
has operated for 100 years, at least Baselworld
allowed, saluted and encouraged one industry,
albeit with two categories - Swiss and the rest.
It’s for all the reasons above that I think there’s
a distinct possibility that the watch world has
changed forever. The demise of Baselworld
could mean there will no longer be one annual
celebration of the international watch industry but,
instead, one celebration of Swiss (in Geneva) and
another for everything else.
We just don’t know where just yet!
MARTIN FOSTER is a freelance journalist and
Jeweller’s resident watch ‘guru’. Based in Sydney,
Martin attends major international exhibitions
covering the watch and timepieces categories.
DISTRIBUTED BY MAD & ASSOCIATES.
AUSTRALIA@SEVENFRIDAY.COM.AU

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Watch Showcase
Adidas Original Watches
Designa Accessories
This Code One Chrono watch
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The timeless round silhouette
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Baume & Mercier
Duraflex Group Australia
This Riviera model is assertive
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Riviera Automatic in steel with
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Brand & Distributor Update
Bulova
Citizen
The latest Bulova’s Archive
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There has been a great deal of change in the watch market
over the past two years with many companies ceasing
distribution of some brands. Jeweller provides an update
on Australia’s leading brands and their latest collections.
Citizen
Citizen
A limited edition fusion of
precision, durability and style,
this watch reflects meticulous
craftsmanship in pursuit of
enduring quality. This watch
is a member of the Citizen
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Classique
Sams Group Australia
These elegant, diamond
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Boccia Titanium Watches
AM Imports
The Wristwatch Melba has a
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Boccia titanium watches are
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Pick your
Colour
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Calvin Klein
MGDL
The perfect mix of sport and
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it's a modern classic. Whether
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Coach
MGDL
This Coach watch is the epitome
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design is enhanced with a lustrous
mother-of-pearl dial and glittering
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Frederique Constant
Citizen
This Code One Chrono watch
combines sporty elegance with
technical functionality. The timeless
round silhouette hosts a six-hand
chronograph, a 24-hour sub-dial
and a window date, and features the
adidas Originals signature blue colour.
Available also in silver and black.
frederiqueconstant.com
March 2021 | 45

Furla Watches
Designa Accessories
Furla Logo Links is
a classic timepiece.
Featuring a 34mm
stainless steel case,
sophisticated rose
gold and stainless
steel duo-tone bracelet
with Furla debossed
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Available in gold and
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Hugo Boss
MGDL
Introducing the
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This watch features an
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JAG
Duraflex Group Australia
The original Australian
brand with 50 years
of history, starting
on Chapel Street in
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seasonal JAG fashion
watch collection
features this 38mm
piece with a black
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to 30 metres.
dgau.com.au/jag
Ph: +61 (3) 9372 1122
info@mgdl.com.au
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Guess Watches
Designa Accessories
Be gala ready with this jewellery
statement piece by Guess. This
fashion accessory showcases an all
over gold glitz stone and ball link
bracelet enriched with a crystal
bezel and rhinestone accents.
Available also in silver and rose gold.
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Tommy Hilfiger
MGDL
Introducing the Tommy Hilfiger
watch, a minimalist timepiece with
a touch of attitude. Whether you're
headed uptown or downtown, this
casual watch is easy to style and
perfect for any occasion.
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J Springs
Smart Products
Made in Japan with
attractive practical designs,
robust stainless steel
casings and bands and
accurate reliable mechanical
movements. Named after
a specially developed
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to bring affordable watches
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Luminox
Duraflex Group Australia
Building on the success
of the 2021 limited edition
models, Luminox and Bear
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A triangulation of survival,
the mantra of 'making
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Exclusive Distributor of Calvin Klein watches in
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Ph: +61 (3) 9372 1122
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Mondaine
Duraflex Group Australia
Developed in 1944 by the Swiss
Federal Railways for their train
stations, it was first launched by
Mondaine in 1986 as a wristwatch.
The design has stood the test of time
and remained unchanged ever since.
The classic collection impresses with
its meticulously designed case made
out of stainless steel which imparts
a timeless and minimalistic look and
feel. The red crown and the red colour
on the inside of the strap are hidden
design features. This watch is a true
statement: a Swiss original.
dgau.com.au/mondaine
Qlocktwo
Mad & Associates
Qlocktwo tells the 'time
in words' in five minute
increments courtesy of 110
backlit LEDs. Every Qlocktwo
Creators Edition Metamorphite
is created from 350 million year
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less than 3mm thick then
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The natural finish of the slate
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Exclusive Distributor of Tommy Hilfiger watches in
Australia & New Zealand
Ph: +61 (3) 9372 1122
info@mgdl.com.au
SevenFriday
Mad & Associates
The exoskeleton of the
SEVENFRIDAY Free-D is
achieved by a 3D printing
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the titanium and sapphire
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The NFC chip embedded in
the design allows you to link
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Olivia Burton
MGDL
This enchanting Olivia Burton
watch is sure to add some
buzz to your everyday look.
With its rainbow-hued dial and
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With its delicate engravings and
beautiful rose gold mesh strap,
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RINGERS WESTERN
OUTBACK WATCH
Ringers Western
Sams Group Australia
The Outback Watch comes
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Meister Singer
Mad & Associates
The Stratoscope. A photo realistic
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The Electricianz
Mad & Associates
The SteelZ catches the light
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The light play levels up with
a touch of the pusher at 2,
bathing the dial in amber light
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Timex Watches
Designa Accessories
Provides a modern take on
original design. The 1970s
Q Timex watch made for the
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doomed acrylic crystal on
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TW Steel
Duraflex Group Australia
The new Red Bull Ampol
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twsteel.com.au

A QUARTERLY SPOTLIGHT ON COLOURED GEMSTONES APRIL 2022
COLOUR
FOCUS
THIS MONTH
Black
&
White
56 RED CARPET
COLLECTION
Who dazzled with
these onyx earrings?
Index
COLOUR INVESTIGATION FEATURE
Alluring Contrasts
Jeweller examines the captivating realm of black and white
gemstones, exploring the contrasting wonders of everything
from onyx to moonstone under the microscope.
52
53
56
IN DEPTH
Dive into gem trivia
COLOUR INVESTIGATION FEATURE
Every hue of white and black
RED CARPET COLLECTION
This month’s colours dazzle
Black & White Diamond
VARIETY
ETYMOLOGY
HARDNESS
REFRACTIVE INDEX
TREATMENTS
COLOURS
Diamond
Greek adamas, meaning 'invincible'
10
2.417 - 2.419
Irradiation, high pressure, heat
Colorless, yellow, brown; rarely white,
black, red, orange, gray, black
QUICK PROFILE
8 Popular
Black &
White
Gemstones
White & Black Opal
VARIETY
ETYMOLOGY
HARDNESS
REFRACTIVE INDEX
TREATMENTS
COLOURS
Hydrated Silica
Sanskrit upala ‘precious stone’
5.0 to 6.6
1.37-1.48
Natural, colour boost, heat, resin,
wax, oil
All colours
Onyx
VARIETY
ETYMOLOGY
HARDNESS
REFRACTIVE INDEX
TREATMENTS
COLOURS
Moonstone
VARIETY
ETYMOLOGY
HARDNESS
REFRACTIVE INDEX
TREATMENTS
COLOURS
Labradorite
VARIETY
ETYMOLOGY
HARDNESS
REFRACTIVE INDEX
TREATMENTS
COLOURS
Quartz
Latin onux, meaning fingernail, claw
6.5 to 7
1.54-1.66
Dye, heat, boiled in acidic honey
Black (primarily), brown, red, white,
grayish blue, green
Feldspar
Named for it's likeness to the moon
6-6.5
1.518-1.525
Natural, Surface Coating
Colorless to White, Gray, Green, Peach,
Brown
Feldspar
Labrador, Canada place of discovery
6-6.5
1.52-1.57
Diffusion, lattice diffusion
White, gray, yellow, or colorless
'Neon' vivid black-white
HONOURABLE
MENTIONS
• Morion
• Black Spinel
• Black Tourmaline
• Mother of Pearl
• Black Star
Sapphire
• Hematite
Obsidian
VARIETY
ETYMOLOGY
HARDNESS
REFRACTIVE INDEX
TREATMENTS
COLOURS
Black & White Pearl
VARIETY
ETYMOLOGY
HARDNESS
REFRACTIVE INDEX
TREATMENTS
COLOURS
Chalcedony
VARIETY
ETYMOLOGY
HARDNESS
REFRACTIVE INDEX
TREATMENTS
COLOURS
Volcanic Glass
Latin, meaning stone of Obsius
5
1.48-1.51
Natural
Black, silver, gold, reddish-brown,
rainbow
Calcium Carbonate
From Latin Perna meaning leg
2.5-3.0
1.52-1.69
Bleach, Irradiation, Dye, Coating
White, Gray, Black, Blue, Green, Orange,
Yellow, Brown, Purple, Pink, Multi
Quartz
From Greek town of Chalcedon in
modern day Turkey
7
1.54 - 1.55
Bleach, Dye, Heat, Coated
pink, blue, grey, red, white, brown, yellow
LEARN ABOUT THESE GEMSTONES IN DEPTH: JEWELLERMAGAZINE.COM

BLACK & WHITE
In Depth
PROVENANCE SNAPSHOT
TOP 5 BLACK AND WHITE GEMSTONE PRODUCING COUNTRIES
Black and White
Diamond
Brazil
Central African
Republic
Moonstone
Brazil
Germany
India
Madagascar
Mexico
Myanmar
Sri Lanka
Tanzania
USA
Labradorite
Canada
Russia
Australia
Mexico
USA
Madagascar
Black
Tourmaline
Afghanistan
India
Indonesia
Kenya
Madagascar
Mozambique
Namibia
Nigeria
Pakistan
Sri Lanka
Tanzania
United Kingdom
Zambia
Chalcedony
USA
Uruguay
India
Madagascar
Myanmar (Burma)
Mexico
Brazil
South Western Africa
PACIFIC
OCEAN
USA
• Mother of Pearl
• Moonstone
• Labradorite
• Onyx
• White & Black Opal
• Morion
Brazil
Madagascar
ATLANTIC
OCEAN
• Black Tourmaline
• Chalcedony
• Labradorite
• Moonstone
• Jade
• Black Topaz
• Morion
ARCTIC
OCEAN
• Morion
• Onyx
• Obsidian
• White & Black Opal
• Black & White Diamond
• Black Topaz
• Moonstone
• Chalcedony
INDIAN
OCEAN
Australia
India
• Labradorite
• White & Black Opal
• Black & White Pearl
• Onyx
• Morion
White Pearl
China
Japan
French
Polynesia
Australia
Black Pearl
• Onyx
PACIFIC
South Sea ocean
• Moonstone OCEAN
waters around
• Chalcedony
French Polynesia
• Black Tourmaline
and the Cook
Islands.
White &
Black Opal
Australia
Mexico
Brazil
Honduras
USA
Americas
Ethiopia
Australia
Onyx
Brazil
India
USA
Australia
Madagascar
Uruguay
Russia
Obsidian
Mexico
Brazil
Ecuador
Iceland
Indonesia
Italy
Japan
Morion
Mozambique
Switzerland
Brazil
USA
Madagascar
Australia
Scotland
Pearl is the only
gemstone to come
from a living
creature
Florida adopted moonstone as its
state gemstone to commemorate
the Apollo 11 moon landing.
All art is
autobiographical; the
pearl is the oyster’s
autobiography.”
FREDERICO FELLINI
A black diamond doesn't
reflect light – it absorbs it.
“I am a black
diamond,
unfaceted.
Black diamonds
are rare,
hard to cut,
and therefore
uncommercial.”
KARL LAGERFELD
Morion was used
to make some of the
first examples of
sunglasses.
Mother of Pearl
was often sold
to Renaissanceera
pilgrims. It
was favoured by
artisans who carved
religious scenes.
8,000
YEARS OLD
AGE OF THE
OLDEST PEARL
According to legend, the Northern
Lights were once trapped inside the
rocks on the coast of Canada. They
remained there until they were
released by the spear of a great
warrior. The stones left untouched
have an iridescent quality and are
known as labradorite.
In the Victorian era, the
properties of haematite
made it the ideal choice
for carving into cameos,
intaglios for rings, beads,
and figurines. This was often
made to commemorate the
death of a loved one.
733-carats
Is the weight of The Black
Star of Queensland,
the second largest star
sapphire in the world.
During the Victorian era,
people associated onyx with
grief. After Queen Victoria’s
husband died in 1861, her
mourning attire included
statement pieces with onyx.
52 | April 2022

BLACK & WHITE
Colour Investigation
UNDERSTANDING GEMSTONE COLOUR
Alluring Contrasts:
Mysterious blacks & whites
Despite their simplicity in colour, black and white gemstones continue to captivate people in many cultures around
the world. Jeweller explores the globe to find out which of the black and white gemstone varieties are out there.
Since the dawn of time, people have been fascinated with
contrasts – the existence of opposites and where extremes
become vital elements in the balance of nature.
Such is the case of black and white, the opposites of the
colour and energy spectrum.
In ancient Chinese philosophy, black and white are often
represented by “yin” and “yang” which best describes how
opposites or contrary forces co-exist to establish balance and
maintain the natural order of everything in the universe.
Black and white gemstones hold similar levels of attraction –
and mystery – which makes them popular and sought-after
jewellery pieces.
Black and White diamonds
Considered one of the most precious and hardest materials
on earth, diamonds are typically formed between 150
kilometres beneath the earth’s crust under intense pressure
and temperature.
It is the only gem made from a single element, which is 99.95
per cent carbon and the other 0.05 per cent comprise one or
more trace elements whose atoms are not part of the stone’s
basic chemistry but influences its shape and colour.
The distinctive optical and physical properties of the
diamond enable it to possess the highest possible
lustre among transparent gemstones, also known as
‘adamantine lustre’ after the Greek word ‘Adamas’, which
means ‘invincible’ and which be taken to mean ‘diamondlike’,
given diamond’s hardness.
Black diamonds are known to achieve their colour from
large quantities of minute mineral inclusions such
as pyrite, graphite, or hematite that are distributed
throughout the stone.
53
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These inclusion concentrations are responsible for the
colouration, allowing natural black diamonds to achieve the
colour ranging from near-colourless to brown or olive green.
Typical natural-colour black diamonds are completely
opaque, with a high lustre and achieve an almost metallic
Since these diamonds are heavily included, cutting and
polishing them requires expertise and must be set with
great care.
However, a fine natural-colour black diamond is a beauty
in itself and makes it distinct yet more affordable than
other diamonds.
Most black diamonds used for jewellery have been treated
to induce their colour. Many begin as grey, which is heavily
included and fractured.
The stones are subjected to high-temperature/lowpressure
treatment, which graphitises the fractures to
make them turn black.
Alternatively, artificial irradiation of off-colour diamonds
produces a dark green hue to make them appear black.
On the other hand, the term ‘white’ usually attributed to
colourless diamonds that fall within the D-to-Z colour GIA
scale or chart, is surprisingly not purely white at all.
The hues range from colourless – similar to a drop of
pure water - to clear stones with tints of light yellow,
light brown or grey.
The rarity and value of white diamonds are based partly
on how closely they achieve ‘colourlessness’ - the more
colourless the diamond, the rarer and more expensive it gets.
April 2022 | 53

Colour Investigation | BLACK & WHITE GEMSTONES
Left to Right: Christie Nicolaides; Verdura; Mateo NY; Chopard; Moon Tree Baby; Verdura
Onyx
For centuries, artisans have carved intricate and
attractive cameos using black and white onyxthe
most popular of which are cabbed or faceted
solid black onyxes.
A type of chalcedony, onyx is a form of
microcrystalline quartz that is distinguished by
its straight, nearly parallel layers or bands of
colour, allowing highly-skilled gem carvers to
work on layers to create intaglios and cameos
with extraordinary depth and contrast.
The most common onyxes are those with white
and black layers. The gems with a black colour
base and a white upper layer are called “true” or
“Arabic onyx.”
The onyx, especially the black variety, was regarded
as a popular gemstone during the Victorian era
(1861-1885), particularly as “mourning” jewellery
and although it still bears the same reputation
in some Western cultures, its dark and opaque
appearance is used to complement clear and
coloured gems – including diamonds - in a variety
of jewellery pieces.
Moonstone
Moonstone is a variety of feldspar composed of two
minerals, orthoclase and albite. The orthoclase
and albite separate into alternating layers during
formation, such that when light falls between these
thin layers the rays get scattered to produce a
phenomenon called adularescence.
Adularescence is the sheen that radiates from
beneath a gem’s surface and appears to move
along with the light source, producing an effect
resembling moonlight on water.
The delicate beauty of the moonstone makes it
one of the most popular gem-quality varieties of
feldspar minerals.
The clarity and colourless appearance of the
moonstone and the blue light intensity of its
adularescence gives the stone a higher value.
A June birthstone, moonstone is revered for
its white and bluish light effect and while it is
somewhat fragile, it is a popular choice as a
centre stone.
Labradorite
Labradorite is a calcium-enriched feldspar mineral
discovered in Labrador, Canada which possesses an
iridescent optical effect known as labradorescence.
The mineral is made of thin and tabular shapes
with colours ranging from purple to grey-blue,
green, yellow, and brown, which has a pearly
lustre and some specimens produce a distinctive
schiller effect.
White labradorite – also commercially known
as rainbow moonstone – is a popular jewellery
piece due to light effects that reflect on a white
background.
Some labradorite varieties are known to
exhibit high degrees of labradorescence called
spectrolite and are among the most preferred
types used for jewellery.
White and black opal
Ancient Romans considered opals as the most
valuable among precious stones since it was
known to have many colours that were also
found in other gemstones.
Opals are known for their unique play-of-colour,
which determines how precious the stone is.
The white or light opal is distinguished as
translucent to semitranslucent, with play-of-colour
against a white or light grey background colour.
While it is considered to be the least expensive
among other precious opal varieties since it is the
most common, it can display any colour of the
spectrum to reflect a beautiful play-of-colour.
On the other hand, the black opal is considered the
most valuable variety of opals due to the stone’s
dark body tone and vibrant play-of-colour.
Distinguished as translucent to opaque, with playof-colour
against a black or other dark background.
Black opals are hard to find and can fetch prices of
up to $AU15,000 per carat.
In the 1980s, Australia became the world’s major
source of opals when mines began commercially
producing the stones.
54 | April 2022

BLACK & WHITE GEMSTONES | Colour Investigation
Obsidian
Obsidian is a form of natural glass and comes in numerous attractive
varieties. During prehistoric times, people have used obsidian to make
jewellery and carvings as well as cutting tools such as knives and spears.
Commonly found in large pieces, lapidaries frequently cut obsidian into
cabochons, beads, and carvings. The faceted pieces appear dark, except
when cut into small pieces and can be made into delicate jewellery stones.
This most popular variety is the snowflake obsidian which gets its name from
inclusions of snowflake-like spherulites of white cristobalite, frequently used
by jewellery-makers as beads and cabochons.
Pure obsidian is distinguished for its dark appearance, though the colour
varies depending on the impurities found in the stone. Iron and other
elements give the obsidian a dark brown to black colour, while some black
obsidians contain nano inclusions of magnetite- a form of iron oxide.
Only a very few obsidian specimens are colourless.
Black and white pearl
Considered as one of the best-loved gems of all time, pearls come in a
wide variety of colours, the most popular of which are white and cream
colour pearls.
Left to Right: Panda - Van Cleef & Arpels; Charms - Storrow
Natural pearls are formed when a microscopic irritant enters the bodies
of certain molluscs, while cultured pearls are done by inserting a bead
or piece of tissue that the mollusc coats with nacre.
Black, grey, and silver pearls are fairly common, with the main colour - or
bodycolour - is often modified to induce additional colours called overtones,
which are pink, purple, green, or blue.
Some pearls also show the iridescent light effect known as ‘orient’.
Pearls are commonly used for bead necklaces and bracelets or set in
solitaires, pairs, or clusters for earrings, rings, and pendants. Larger pearls
are also popular with creative jewellery designers.
Akoya cultured pearl farms are primarily found in Japan and China,
especially along the southern coasts of Guangdong and Guangxi provinces.
South Sea cultured pearls are farmed from the northern coast of Australia
through Indonesia to the southern coast of Southeast Asia, with large
operations in the Philippines as well. The Gambier Islands and the Tuamotu
Archipelago – both in French Polynesia - are two of the major sources of
rich black Tahitian pearls.
Chalcedony
Chalcedony is named after the ancient Greek seaport ‘Chalcedon’
(khalkedon) in Asia Minor and the Latin word ‘chalcedonius’.
Chalcedony, which is found worldwide, is a microcrystalline variety
of quartz, meaning its microscopic quartz crystals require high
magnification for it to be seen.
When crafted as jewellery, chalcedony is distinguished by its light blue
translucent and waxy form, which can be found in be many colours -
chrysoprase is a popular example, the sought-after apple green variety.
Ideal for carving cameos, intaglios, ring bezels and beads, Chalcedony
has been used since ancient times in the Mediterranean region and
Central Asia.
MEMBER
Est.1968
AUSTRALIA’S WIDEST
RANGE OF GEMSTONES
ALL VARIETIES OF NATURAL
COLOURED GEMSTONES
NATURAL FANCY
COLOURED DIAMONDS
OPALS AND PEARLS
03 9654 4449
Level 4, Wales Corner
227 Collins Street
Melbourne VIC 3000
gems@kandk.net.au

BLACK & WHITE
Red Carpet Collection
STARS SHINE IN COLOUR
Gemstones in the Spotlight
The A-list have given their seal of approval to statement gems – be inspired by these colourful jewellery pieces worn on the red carpet.
Famed Lebanese-
Italian jeweller Fawaz
Gruosi presented these
striking earrings as
part of the Colorissima
Collection. Showcasing
natural darkness and
light with contrasting
gemstones, the
earrings feature carved
onyx with diamonds
set in 18-carat white
gold and are paired
with a matching ring.
Fawaz Gruosi
ONYX, WHITE DIAMOND – Jodie Comer
Venice Film Festival 2021
Boucheron
PEARL, DIAMOND – Salma Hayek
Academy Awards 2020
Fred Leighton
BLACK JADE AND WHITE DIAMOND –
Lupita Nyong’o, SAG Awards 2015
Tasaki
PEARL – Clare Danes
Met Gala 2021
Fred Leighton
WHITE TOPAZ – Kate Winslett
Emmy Awards 2021
Yoko London
PEARL – Zendaya
Vogue Fashion Fund Awards in 2016
4The Opalescence brooch
is set with a 71.69-carat oval
Ethiopian cabochon white opal,
and also has a matching ear
pendant, set with opals and
diamonds with lacquer, on rose
gold. Designed by Boucheron,
this set is part of the Carte
Blanche, Holographic Haute
Joaillerie collection.
Verdura
DIAMOND, PEARL – Julie Garner
Golden Globe Awards 2021
Boucheron
OPAL – Nicolas Maury
Cannes Film Festival 2021
56 | April 2022

GEMSTONES IN THE SPOTLIGHT | Stars shine in colour
Los Angeles based jeweller
Irene Neuwirth, creates a
remarkable labradorite and
diamond necklace. Round
brillliant -cut diamonds and
labradorites are tied together with
an 18-carat rose gold necklace.
Irene Neuwirth
LABRADORITE – Amy Poehler
Golden Globes 2015
Van Cleef & Arpels
CHALCEDONY – Kate Middleton
BAFTAS 2020
Faraone Mannella
MOONSTONE – Nicky Hilton Rothschild
LuisaViaRoma for UNICEF Event 2021
Ashton Michael
PEARL – Machine Gun Kelly
American Music Awards 2021
UNOde50
PEARL – JoJo
AMAs 2021
Lorraine Schwartz
BLACK DIAMOND – Halsey
Billboard Music Awards 2018
4 Reese Witherspoon
wore Bulgari with
11.74 carats of rubies,
25.2 carats of diamonds,
onyx and pearls, as
well as a one-of-a-kind
Barocko bracelet.
Bulgari
ONYX, PEARL AND DIAMOND – Reese
Witherspoon, Academy Awards 2021
Brumani
BLACK QUARTZ AND MORION – Molly Sims
Venice Film Festival 2019
April 2022 | 57

BUSINESS
Strategy
How to improve and create
great retail displays
Tiffany & Co.
First impressions are undeniably lasting and in the retail business it can determine whether a customer
enters or walks away from your store. Let KIZER AND BENDER share their knowledge to help you sell more.
If there are lessons learned from the
pandemic, it’s that retailers are highly
resilient.
We know you never have enough time to do
everything you want on your sales floor and
that customers expect constant change to
keep coming back. Fortunately, there are
great resources available to help with visual
merchandising- the part of your store that
interests shoppers.
Studies have revealed that humans lose
interest somewhere around eight seconds.
Blame it on technology! For in-store
displays, customers lose interest in about
five seconds – this is why the approach of
‘this display is good enough for now’ just
doesn’t cut it anymore.
For in-store displays, customers lose
interest in about five seconds – this is why
the approach of ‘this display is good enough
for now’ just doesn’t cut it anymore.
So what’s a retailer to do?
Elements of a great display
We started our careers in the retail
industry; department stores to be specific,
and back when they were not-to-bemissed
examples of quality retailing. The
experience taught us that displays take
time and preparation to build a themed
experience each month, and an action
plan is necessary to make it happen.
Great displays don’t just happen. Sure,
sometimes you get lucky, but organising
promotions every month can be
exhausting.
Consider these ideas when planning your
displays.
Theme: Choose a theme for each month
of the year. Some months may have more
than one theme. Do it one at a time.
Consider your overall theme and what it
takes to achieve what you are aiming for.
Remember that the store is always the
story, not a single display. Carry elements
of the theme throughout the sales floor to
create a unified story.
Platform: These are fixtures needed to
create displays on your sales floor and
windows. For example, what platform do
you need for your ‘speed bump’ display?
List each piece needed, taking into
account what you already have and what
you may need to purchase.
Props: Little touches incorporated to a
display adds character. Think texture:
baskets, smooth woods, glass, metal,
even different fabrications. Inexpensive
Plexiglas risers are ideal for elevating
featured products. Consider using big
props, such as decorated Christmas trees
during the holidays or decorative trim
throughout the store.
Product: Choose items to be displayed
in advance so you can focus on telling
a complete story. While you are already
purchasing products seasonally, look for
other items to be merchandised on endfeatures
and other areas to carry out the
theme. You can swap or add products from
the floor, as needed.
Great displays
don’t just
happen. Sure,
sometimes
you get lucky,
but doing it
every month is
exhausting.
Display Techniques: Always consider
the right technique to make products
stand out. We know that products
arranged vertically is always better than
products distributed horizontally. Vertical
merchandising causes shoppers to see
more of the displays because they look
up, down and forward on displays.
Cross-merchandising or placing items
together that complement one another
is another effective technique. It entices
shoppers to purchase more products easily,
plus they are exposed to items they have not
previously considered.
Each display also needs a Focal Point, that
spot where a customer’s eyes fixate at a
display. Is the shopper drawn to a product
you are promoting? When there is no focal
point customers may be confused about
where to look and simply move on.
If the fixture itself is the focal point then it’s
time to change it.
Negative space: Empty areas of the display
or white space that frames the product. Your
store is an explosion of colours; let your key
displays breathe a little.
Colour: is a powerful choice when searching
for theme ideas. We are naturally drawn to
color, but it’s also important to keep in mind
that colours can have an effect on shoppers:
• Red is aggressive and makes some
people anxious and can actually speed up
metabolism
• Pink is happy, romantic, light-hearted
and soothing
58 | April 2022

Business Strategy
• Yellow is optimistic, warm, cheery and
the first colour we see
• Green is calming and refreshing and
the easiest colour on the eye
• Brown signifies warmth and security
• Blue represents trust, loyalty and
confidence
• Purple symbolises luxury, wealth and
sophistication
• Orange just makes us happy
Communication: In-store signage is
incredibly important, yet often an underutilised
component of a good display. Signs
answer questions about products and
highlight features, price points, etc. On
the sales floor women often read signs for
information, however; men rely on them,
especially for big ticket items where features
are important.
Remember that eye level – 4 feet to 5 feet
(120-150cm), four inches (10cm) from
the floor – is the ‘buy level’. It’s the best
performing sales area for adult shoppers, so
if a sign encourages purchases, add one.
Senses: The five senses play key roles in
the customer experience spectrum and can
enhance a monthly theme. Sight and touch
relate to merchandise, taste is anything
that’s prepackaged during the pandemic,
but hearing and smell can make your
monthly display much better.
Instore music must be considered
because the right music can influence
sales by providing a background that
entices shoppers to stay longer and buy
more. Disco, or any music that’s upbeat,
is a popular favourite because it makes
shoppers smile. Music can also energise
your staff on the sales floor.
Research has proven that a pleasantsmelling
environment has a positive effect
on shopping behaviour. Fresh pine scents
during November and December, for
example, will put shoppers in the holiday
spirit. Adding scent to your themes using
diffusers or machines are great, but avoid
burning scented candles on your sales floor.
Marketing: This involves events or
promotions that are tied to your theme, plus
where the theme and related products are
marketed. Consider Facebook, Facebook
Live, Instagram, Pinterest and bi-weekly
emails or newsletters.
Areas of importance on your sales floor
To save time, plan ahead and know which
areas of the sales floor will be part of your
monthly theme. Spread the theme area
wherever you like throughout the store, but
note key areas that need to be involved for
one reason: If you mis-merchandise, these
highly visual areas can mean lost sales.
Store-front windows are the ‘eyes of the
store’ and the first thing a customer sees
when entering. Unless you are in a high
traffic area, you need to change your window
displays weekly. Consider changing them
once a month or more when having multiple
themes planned for that month.
Speed bump displays work: they slow
shoppers down. These are also the first
display customers see upon entering the
store and a good indicator of what to expect
on the floor.
While most jewellery stores are small and
don’t require speed bumps, a well located
table can do the trick. Change or update
your speed bump displays once a week;
more often if your store has a lot of repeat
customer traffic.
Lake front property (LFP) is a term used to
descibe high-value real estate on on your
sales floor. Since 90 per cent of customers
enter a store and look or turn to the right,
your LFP can create a big impact on sales. If
your store has a centre door your LFP is at
the front right side of the sales floor.
If your door is at the far left, your LFP will
BEST FOOT
FORWARD
Theme
Choose a theme
for each month of
the year and be
creative
Props
Think texture -
baskets, smooth
woods, glass,
metal
Product
Choose products
for display to tell
a complete story.
be on the right and the opposite if your door
is located at the right corner. Regardless
of where your LFP is situated it is a critical
space that must be included in your themed
displays and regularly updated.
Power walls are located at the front right
and the most important selling wall in your
store. Use it to feature merchandise you
want customers to see.
End-features or end caps are high-impulse
shopping areas that are located at the end
of gondolas or similar shelving-type fixtures.
It should not be used to house products
permanently, but are best for featuring new
items and promotional goods. Again, while
they might not be relevant to small jewellery
stores, it does offer food for thought.
Theme ideas to get you started
There are many holidays to celebrate each
month and it’s not surprising to see an
entire window dedicated to these themes.
Use holidays as a starting point to get your
creative juices flowing. Brainstorming with
your staff is often a good source of ideas.
Much of your success at retail is contingent
upon your visual merchandising skills.
Customers are not drawn to sparse or
poorly executed displays. Stores that stay
the same, no matter what time of the year,
are bypassed for those with a better in-store
experience.
Every fixture, product, and detail influences
a customer to stay, buy and shop with you
again. Executing displays is an art, but it is
also a science. With a little planning, you can
eliminate the ‘what am I going to put there?’
dilemma and get a head start in creating
quality displays.
RICH KIZER and GEORGANNE
BENDER are retail strategists,
authors and consultants. Visit:
kizerandbender.com
April 2022 | 59

BUSINESS
Selling
Demographics is dead –
Here comes Personality Profiling!
Just when we thought that demographics are key to developing effective selling strategies,
maybe we should think again. Let BRIAN WALKER explain how retailers could go the right path.
Australia’s total retail spend in pre-COVID
(2019) was $320 billion. Based on an
average of 5 per cent direct and indirect
spending to attract customers, around $16
billion is spent each year on marketing.
If you ascribe to John Wanamaker’s
’theory’ that 50 per cent of all advertising
and marketing is fundamentally wasted,
about $8 billion per year is wasted, or at
least, ineffective.
Has our traditional perspective of
demographic studies (gender, age,
postcode, etc) led to the ‘well-spent 50 per
cent’ versus the other ‘wasted’ half?
Can we see a definitive link to
demographics and brand resonance other
than a generalised, largely unconnected
relationship?
More importantly, in the digital age, can
store and website design, marketing
segmentation and customer navigation, be
accurately predicted and mapped through
traditional demographics?
Perhaps, in an assumptive manner,
however, today there are more definitive
methods in understanding consumer
profiling or personality types.
Traditional demographics is not enough
Growing up, we were made aware of the
‘rational consumer’ - where all buying
decisions were rational and demographics
ruled the world. As retailers, we devise
campaigns to attract customers whom we
believe would make clear decisions with
respect to age, gender and location.
But guess what? Humans are irrational -
bound by degrees of our emotional senses.
Not many people realise that:
• 95 per cent of new products fail
• Physical stores only convert an
average of 30 per cent
• Online retailers only convert 3 per cent
on average
• 98 per cent of direct mail gets no
response
• 98 per cent of marketing emails don’t
convert
Understand consumers on an intimate and emotional level.
Your brand as a human being
Think about your retail brand being made
up of a unique set of values, which create
its personality to attract consumers
with the same values. As with product
brands, values are emotional and largely
subconscious. Humans build friendships
based on trust and shared values are
consistent and reliable.
The same applies in building brand
relationships. Thus, classic demographic
profiling methods simply don’t work
because they ‘speak’ to consumers as
rational beings – and we now know there’s
no such thing as a rational consumer.
Humanising your brand means tapping into
these subconscious and inherent values to
understand consumers on an intimate and
emotional level.
Demographics out – profiling in
Consumer neuroscience posits that the
subconscious limbic system influences
95 per cent of decisions. It’s the part of
the brain involved in our behavioural
and emotional responses, and answers
the question of why customers behave
the way they do and it’s not random or
unpredictable.
Imagine a fashion brand for women with
an income of over $1 million, aged 25 to
35, – a classic demographic segmentation
and two women in this segment are Queen
of Pop, Katy Perry and future ‘queen’ of
We were
focused on
‘how’ consumers
interact with
our brands,
when the
missing link
has always
been ‘why’
consumers
choose our
brands and
products.
England, Kate Middleton.
However, both women are worlds apart -
their life and fashion choices determined
by personality types, which explains the
‘why’.
Another example: a man who purchases a
shirt from a store every three months and
did so for the last two years. His preferred
shirt style is known, however not ‘why’ he
chose the store, selected the shirt or chose
the time to purchase.
What subconscious mechanisms influence
a person’s decision to purchase five items
out of a possible 25,000 SKUs? The Limbic
system acts as a relevance detector
whether a stimulus - such as packaging
or product design - can either be relevant
or not, whether we perceive it at all, and
choose a product off-the-shelf.
What resonates with us – before we are
aware of it – occurs in the Limbic system.
So, when it comes to packaging, branding
and overall product design, recognising
what your target customers’ most
dominant emotional system is crucial.
It determines whether a product or
brand stands out, attracts and enables
customers to identify ’the one' amongst
the sea of sameness. We were focused on
‘how’ consumers interact with our brands,
when the missing link has always been
“why” consumers choose our brands.
Neuroscience allows us to better
understand personality profiles and
subconscious emotional drivers, and
we figure out the connection with
certain brands.
Behind each personality type is an amazing
set of subconscious drivers, which
determines how, why and whether or not
consumers will interact with brands. After
all, it’s a 50/50 chance they are right.
BRIAN WALKER is the founder and
managing director of Retail Doctor
Group, a retail consulting company.
Visit: retaildoctor.com.au
60 | April 2022

BUSINESS
Marketing & PR
Prepare your business to face the
expected unexpected
2021 was another year of uncertainty for retailers due to the global pandemic. However, despite the challenges, there was
still plenty of opportunities to improve your business, and lessons to take into the future, JEANNIE WALTERS explains.
While 2021 was another strange,
unpredictable, and a not-quite-back-tonormal
year – and 2022 is looking better
– it’s important to reconsider the changes
you have made or need to make to your
business in odder to progress out of the
pandemic.
When it came to customer experience,
leaders dealt with all sorts of changes and
challenges. The introduction of vaccines
led to some staff returning to the office,
while some swore they’d never return.
Customers were able to go to the grocery
store, yet many who discovered delivery
services during the shutdowns found it
better suited their lives.
Utilise root cause analysis and customer journey-mapping.
these situations.
Closing the loop also means bringing
closure to everyone in the business that
solved customer issues and created a
better outcome. Share the wins throughout
the business so staff can reflect the same
to your customers.
Customer feedback will continue to be
a key factor in preparing for the future,
but only if the feedback loop is closed by
communicating back to the customer.
Focus on the big picture
Don’t waste time on trivial matters. Always
think big about your customer experience
goals and how they can help your business
achieve its goals, as well.
Schools opened, closed and quarantined
groups, while parents juggled uncertain
schedules and even bus driver shortages.
Our on-demand world did not fare any
better, either. Shipments were delayed,
there was a shortage in microchips, and
the, so-called, Great Resignation led to
organisational charts written in pencil.
The best-laid plans were difficult to
execute as once envisioned. Indeed, while
2021 was another year of change and
adaptation, this year already looks like
another with some degree of uncertainty.
However, some things won’t change and
store managers can expect a new litmus
test throughout this year.
Here’s how retailers can help ensure
better days ahead for customers and
employees.
Protect your customer-facing resources
Communicate and support staff that
serve customers in more consistent and
larger ways. We all still need to ‘expect the
unexpected’; we can expect volatility in the
world, but not everyone welcomes change.
Customers and sales staff deal with
anxieties and frustrations in ways that
can lead to unfortunate or dangerous
situations. For example, in the US ‘air rage’
incidents rose to historical levels this year,
since the airline industry started recording
Managers need to find ways to address
these when customers and staff are
caught in such unfamiliar situations.
This means exploring measures to provide
customers with guidance and support
in navigating new processes, as well as
communicating new rules or options. It’s
especially important for frontline workers
such as salespeople and counter staff.
What do they need to know to communicate
when things don’t go as planned?
Managers can collaborate with others in
the business. What expectations can be
reset for customers and how? What about
the supply chain, high-stress situations,
or moments deemed important in the
customer’s journey?
Utilising root cause analysis and customer
journey-mapping can help managers
understand and prepare.
2022: The year you close the loop
Customers often provide feedback but
don’t get a response from those who
hear it. Quality retailers not only listen to
the customer’s voice, but let them know
they’ve been heard.
It’s often not enough to just respond,
a retailer should also act on customer
feedback and ideas when appropriate.
Jewellery retailers may need to coalesce
and get staff involved in that process.
Customers and
sales staff deal
with anxieties
and frustrations
in ways that
can lead to
unfortunate
or dangerous
situations.
It is becoming increasingly important to
respond to short-term, urgent situations.
But jewellery retailers need to focus on the
horizon - beyond the staffing shortages
and supply chain disruptions.
Looking at the present and beyond,
invest in ways to enhance your customer
experience outcomes.
Some retailers use centralised customer
data for visibility and knowledge of the
customer’s purchasing history. This helps
staff provide the right information at the
right time to the right person.
Holistic care for customers and staff
The uncertainty of the times has resulted
in a stress crisis. Managers may be able
to find ways to better serve customers by
proactively reducing stress and anxiety, for
both customers and staff.
What innovations or ideas do you think
we’ll see over the next 12-18 months?
2022 will bring its own set of surprises,
and customer experience managers will
need to work collaboratively in order to
fulfill a business’s mission.
JEANNIE WALTERS is founder and
CEO of Experience Investigators. Learn
more: experienceinvestigators.com
April 2022 | 61

BUSINESS
Management
Sales management during tough economic times
Management can be a frustrating endeavor during harsh economic times and knowing how to weather
the storm is crucial to success. BRIAN JEFFREY shares his thoughts on managing staff during a crisis.
It doesn’t matter if the global economy
goes bad - around the country, around
the block, or around your industry or
market - because managing means
making difficult decisions. And as an
owner or manager, you’re the best
person who has to make them.
and apart from closing doors on the
business, putting people out on the street
is something to consider.
The key is knowing which people to keep
and supporting them with all you’ve got
while you weather the storm.
Even with small retail businesses such
as jewellery stores, I know there are
many sales management challenges,
but during tough economic times, two
always stand out.
First, maintaining the overall morale
and motivation of your staff, so that they
continue to perform at the highest level
possible no matter the market conditions.
Second, fine-tuning the business to
ensure optimum performance. Finetuning
can involve thinning out the herd
by laying-off people and, obviously, any
downsizing can have a huge impact on
motivation and morale.
Mismanaging during tough times
When times are tough, you need to review
costs, but not necessarily slash and
burn. Larger companies headed by nonmarketing
people, such as an accountant,
or an engineer, often use difficult trading
periods to justify cost cutting.
They terminate training, advertising, staff
- anything else they see as a cost to the
company. This is a short-sighted view.
The problem with cutting costs on
advertising, as an example, is that it
diminishes visibility in the marketplace.
It stops people buying and, as a result,
revenue drops further. The powers at
the top - seeing less revenue - make
even more cuts and the downward
spiral goes on.
When the cost-cutting gets to downsizing,
at times the wrong people get affected,
since it’s often tempting to sack highly-paid
salespeople.
The sales arrow
It’s easy to forget that the salespeople
are the tip of a ‘sales arrow’ and, like any
If you see tough times on the horizon, plan ahead.
arrow, it’s only effective when it hits the
target.
Let’s look at what makes up an arrow. The
tip penetrates the target, the shaft provides
mass, and the feathers provide direction.
Your salespeople are the tip of the arrow,
the company’s products and services
are the arrow’s shaft and the feathers
represent management.
As a retail sales manager, you need to keep
the tip of the arrow sharp at all times.
Sharpen the arrow
Tough economic times are often an ideal
opportunity to sharpen the arrow. While
investing in external sales training and
motivational meetings may be out of the
question, don’t rule them out. It could
make a difference.
Fine-tuning your staff
One of the most difficult decisions for
a sales manager is parting ways with
people he or she knows and likes. Deciding
who goes or stays is a gut-wrenching
experience for even the most seasoned
manager.
Avoid the last-in/first-out approach and
certainly do not play favourites. If you’re
going to reduce your staff, make sure
you’re keeping proven performers and
those with the potential to quickly develop
into performers.
Desperate times, desperate measures
Desperate economic times - global or
local - usually call for desperate measures
It’s somehow
easy to forget
that the
company’s
salespeople
are the tip of
a ‘sales arrow’
and, like any
arrow, it’s only
effective when
it hits the
target.
Walking the thin line
As a sales manager, you often walk the
thin line between upper management and
your sales staff. It is equally important for
you to represent the needs of your staff to
management, just as it is to carry upper
management’s message to the staff.
It’s critical for your staff to see you as
their champion, particularly during tough
times. It’s crucial that upper management
sees you as proactive or part of whatever
solution is required to weather the
economic storm.
As the staff’s champion, you must be
prepared for measures that could hurt the
businesses ability to operate effectively.
Taking risks is a part of business.
Advertising cuts or other marketing
measures that endanger the source of
sales leads should be opposed if the
reason for the cut is simply to save on
expenditure.
It goes both ways of course, and you
should always be prepared to cut
members of staff if needed.
The bottom line
If you see tough times on the horizon, plan
ahead and be prepared to make difficult
decisions when needed if you expect to
come out safe on the other side.
If you can stay ahead of the curve, even
when it’s heading down, you’ll be in a
better position to take advantage of the
situation when the time comes and the
market improves and sales increase.
BRIAN JEFFREY has more than 40
years’ experience in sales management,
training, and business consulting.
thesaleswizard.ca
62 | April 2022

BUSINESS
Logged On
5 reasons why email marketing is important
A pioneering wonder in digital communication, email has proven itself as a powerful marketing tool.
But has it outlived its usefulness in this modern and disruptive era? Not yet! SIMON DELL explains why.
Despite the overwhelming urge for brands
to embrace ever-changing software and
technology, email remains the top choice
for one-on-one communication.
It’s a powerful and easy to use marketing
tool right at your fingertips!
While social media is great for keeping
customers updated with brand news,
emails reign supreme when it comes
to promoting limited offers and gaining
impulse clicks. Social media content is
filtered — it’s a crude shotgun approach
that doesn’t effectively target your
most loyal customers. This is where
e-mail marketing is most powerful:
personalisation.
In 2020, 87 per cent of marketers believe
email was increasingly effective for
messaging customers. Today, we still send
out newsletters, promotions, and leadretention
emails because these continue
to draw customers’ attention. Simple, yet
emotionally evocative language is what
does the trick.
Emails are a direct and informative way
to contact key people within businesses.
A well-written subject line will work
wonders — you need to balance intrigue
with a habit of cutting to the chase when
acknowledging buyer intent.
Also, remember to include no more than
one call-to-action (CTA) in the email body
when dealing with businesses.
High response rate
Tired of ads and social media posts that
generate zero attention? Emails can be
tailored to customers and businesses and
you’re more likely to receive a response
from your target audience.
The most common metric for assessing
email marketing success is the click-toopen
(CTO) metric.
This rate measures opened emails
against the number of clicks on your CTA
link. More than 13 per cent of marketing
emails on average result in a click. That’s
comparable to a successful social media
Emails provide an opportunity to connect with your target demographic.
post from a large campaign while being far
more affordable.
Aim for a 10 per cent CTO rate to gauge
the success of your email marketing
campaign when starting. Don’t be afraid to
experiment with layouts, action-based CTA
and images to increase your rate.
SalesHandy and RightInbox are excellent
stand-alone mail-tracking tools, allowing
you to view link clicks and number of sent
emails opened.
A direct CTA
Emails provide an excellent opportunity
to connect with your target demographic.
The formality of your language, the nature
of your graphics and images – even your
text colour and font affect customers’
receptiveness to your message.
It’s important to start or end your email
with a subject line consistent with your
CTA. One formula for writing an email
is to ask questions (such as potential
problems or queries) and frame your
CTA as the solution.
Questions should be coloured with emotive
language that provokes a response. As an
example, “Stressing about which mattress
to buy?” An appropriate CTA would be:
“We make choosing a mattress easy.
Start shopping.”
This simple formula may not be effective
for B2B sales. Instead, your ability to
Email
marketing is
a fantastic
way to attract
and retain
customers,
no matter the
size of your
business.
convey value information concisely comes
into play. Entice your prospect to respond
by stating the undeniable value of your
service or again, by asking questions they
need answered.
Don’t shy away from being proactive
about setting meetings and suggesting
timeframes. Ensure the ball is always in
the clients’ court.
Automated, but still personal
Let’s talk about mail marketing clients.
Mail marketing software like MailChimp,
HubSpot and Drip provide you with email
statistics and can also send out emails
to leads and current customers based on
their behaviour.
Consider the journey a potential client
takes from signing up or registering
interest to purchasing. Lifecycle emails
can be customised according to which step
a prospective may be on this journey.
Your email software may automatically
send an e-mail to users who have closed
a browser window containing their virtual
shopping cart. You can automate email
vouchers or discounts to inactive clients,
rekindling cold leads.
The possibilities of further categorising
and targeting niches within your client
base are endless and depend on the nature
of your business.
Not going away anytime soon
Email marketing has an ROI of $US44
($AU61.77) for each dollar spent. That’s
without mentioning a massive B2C
audience – 90 per cent of customers enjoy
receiving coupons and sales promotions
from companies.
Email marketing is a fantastic way to
attract and retain customers, no matter
the size of your business, and it’s an
approach that’s here to stay.
SIMON DELL is co-founder and CEO
of Cemoh, a Brisbane-based firm that
provides marketing staff on demand.
He specialises in digital marketing and
brand management. Visit: cemoh.com
April 2022 | 63

My Bench
Mario Orlando
Cristi’s Jewellers. Penrith NSW
Age 74 • Years in Trade 53 • Training No formal training, served as apprentice under my father • First job Rhon Rae Productions
4FAVOURITE GEMSTONE
None, I like them all.
4FAVOURITE METAL
Gold.
4FAVOURITE TOOL
Fine file.
4BEST PART OF THE JOB
Waking up in the morning and
opening the shop.
4WORST PART OF THE JOB
Not being 100% satisfied with
your work.
4BEST TIP FROM A JEWELLER
Complete all repairs at the
same time.
4BEST TIP TO A JEWELLER
Always do the right thing!
4BIGGEST HEALTH CONCERN ON
THE BENCH
Looking after your eyes.
4LOVE JEWELLERY BECAUSE
Because I work on any aspect of
the design or the jewellery item
64 | April 2022

OPINION
Soapbox
Dealing with the intricacies of opal dealing
You know that 95 per cent of opals come from Australia, right? Wrong! RENATA BERNARD
says that’s usually the first mistake when dealing with a customer in search of a quality opal.
Precious Australian opals are currently
in high demand. Their prices are rising
and the number of websites selling
opals is rapidly increasing. This is good
news. We should be celebrating!
Better still, you have a perfect customer
looking for a quality black opal with an
electric play of rainbow colours to be set
into a magnificent jewellery design. The
dollar signs are flashing.
So, what’s the catch? It is, as always, in
the detail. And the detail is in the unique
nature of this magnificent phenomenal
gemstone, its limited supplies and
resistance to systematisation.
If you are lucky, you have a trusted opal
dealer who sends you several options
for your customer. Are you on a winning
streak? Or are you taking your first steps
into the shifty dunes of uncertainty and
limited guarantees?
You have been in the industry long
enough to be able to tell a solid opal
from its composite counterpart. Using
a little droplet test, you can ascertain
the sedimentary nature of the opals you
are examining on behalf of your client.
Trusting the well-repeated statistic, there
is a 95 per cent chance that the precious
opal you are playing with is Australian,
right? Not really!
The mantra, “95 percent of precious opals
originate from Australia,” is repeated ad
nauseam by well-meaning Australian opal
aficionados, has not stood any test since
the 1980s, when it first gained popularity.
The customer insists that they need a N1
or N2 body tone. The stone has it, but the
backing is grey. Or ironstone. How do you
explain to them that the host rock has no
bearing on the N1 classification of the
gem, if they have been over-informed by
the well-meaning websites that advise
‘black is black’?
And then, the question of treatment and
structure arises. What guarantees can
you give to your customer that the faint
grey line in the opal is colour-less potch
and not gypsum or, god-forbid, webbing
that may threaten the long-term stability
of the gemstone?
This is before we get into the
conversation about the quality of cut and
craftsmanship, which more often than not
is done with soft resin diamond wheels
rather than using the traditional – and
superior – dry-sanding techniques. I say
“superior” because only dry opal will tell
you the story of its future.
What tools do you have at your disposal to
discuss the sources of value and quality?
Unfortunately, there is still very little. The
nomenclatures currently in circulation
insist that the notions of body tones,
gradation of colours and vaguely defined
patterns, are main determinants of the
precious opal’s value.
The truth is that, as is the case with all
other precious gemstones, an opal’s value
lies in its beauty, rarity and durability, not
in its darkness or lightness, or blackness
or whiteness.
You may have seen a green-blue, N-6 opal
superbly superior to a red N1 with barely
enough play of colour to speak of. Or, an
electrifyingly spectacular pinfire may steal
your heart in a flash, when placed next to
a charming broad-patterned ‘character’
stone.
To put it simply, a precious opal’s objective
beauty is directly proportional to the
overall brightness of its play-of-colour. It
is as simple as that.
Both, you and the client can see it. And,
this is what we should focus on and
measure, rather than the body tone. This
is what gives opal lovers goose bumps
and it’s what makes them fall in love with
an opal. Of course, the excitement of a
gemstone is also relational and depends
on the gem lover’s tastes, and – let’s face
The mantra,
“95 percent of
precious opals
originate from
Australia,” is
repeated ad
nauseam by
well-meaning
Australian opal
aficionados.
it – their wallet.
Yet, fundamentally, bright play of colour
is the one factor that makes an opal
irrevocably beautiful.
In judging durability and rarity of
Australian opals, nothing beats
experience and that comes from handling
thousands of varied gemstones and
dealing with the opal, gem and jewellery
industry at many levels, from the source,
manufacturing, all the way to the end
user - our retail clientele.
It comes from understanding what fine
design and quality craftsmanship is at
each level of an opal journey. It comes
from exploring different opal fields,
talking to miners, dealers and end users,
learning the old ways, whilst adopting
new technologies and directions in
design, on par with the best of the world.
I dare to add that our collective and
unique advantage is our localised opal
experience that goes hand-in-hand with
our industry qualifications that inspire
trust and respectability. GAA, GIA, Gem-A,
coupled with accreditations and coveted
memberships, including Australian NCJV
are crucial in validating the Australian
opal industry’s reputation and inspiring
our customer’s long-term satisfaction.
At the end of the day, what we want our
opal client to have is a guarantee - of
quality, value and expertise behind the
gemstone to be treasured for generations
to come.
That should be our ultimate goal in the
fine jewellery business. It should be a
guarantee supported by knowledge, and
a focus on the end-use, all of which must
be easily conveyed.
Name: Renata Bernard, PhD, GIA GG
Business: Opal Minded
Position: Creative Director
Location: Sydney, NSW
Years in the industry: 14
66 | April 2022

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