31.03.2022 Views

Jeweller - April 2022

Diamond disruption: How the Russia-Ukraine conflict is changing global trade High time for change: Where to for watch brands after Baselworld? Darkness & light: Uncover the mysteries of black and white gemstones

Diamond disruption: How the Russia-Ukraine conflict is changing global trade
High time for change: Where to for watch brands after Baselworld?
Darkness & light: Uncover the mysteries of black and white gemstones

SHOW MORE
SHOW LESS

You also want an ePaper? Increase the reach of your titles

YUMPU automatically turns print PDFs into web optimized ePapers that Google loves.

Editor’s Desk<br />

Making sense of the Omega x Swatch chaos<br />

Two iconic watch brands, one low price – the MoonSwatch was destined to be an astronomical collaboration.<br />

While Swatch has stressed that this wasn’t a limited edition release, it wasn’t enough to prevent crowd chaos at launches<br />

across the globe. ANGELA HAN explores what this says about consumers today and what it means for the watch industry.<br />

On the eve of 26 March, queues stretching<br />

hundreds of meters formed across cities<br />

worldwide, from Melbourne and Tokyo to<br />

New York and London. Pitched tents and<br />

fold-out chairs painted a familiar picture<br />

of excitement and anticipation that was<br />

reminiscent of an Apple launch. But this<br />

time the queues weren’t for Apple – they<br />

were for Swatch.<br />

The fanfare erupted over the long-awaited<br />

$380 MoonSwatch that was made in<br />

collaboration with Omega. Unavailable<br />

for purchase online, collectors had no<br />

choice but to travel and camp outside the<br />

boutiques to get their hands on one of the<br />

11 solar-system inspired timepieces.<br />

Madness ensued to such an extent that<br />

police intervention was reported at an<br />

event in Singapore, where violence broke<br />

out. The Law and Home Affairs Minister<br />

had to call for a “sense of perspective”<br />

from shoppers, saying that “we don’t need<br />

to lose our minds over these situations”.<br />

London’s Carnaby Street boutique was<br />

forced to close over crowd safety concerns<br />

within 30 minutes of opening, and new<br />

MoonSwatch owners in Dubai had to<br />

be escorted with their purchase by law<br />

enforcement from the store to get safely<br />

through the aggressive stampede of<br />

increasingly impatient hopefuls.<br />

It was reported that the watches sold out<br />

in under 10 minutes in Melbourne, and<br />

police had to be called to help manage<br />

the throngs of people who had lined up<br />

through the night before. It was a similar<br />

situation at Sydney’s Pitt Street boutique;<br />

videos appeared of eager fans crowding<br />

outside the store in the wee hours of<br />

the morning wanting to wrap the iconic<br />

release around their wrist before the<br />

store’s allocation was exhausted.<br />

While Swatch confirmed that the<br />

MoonSwatch collection is not a limited<br />

edition, and new stock would be available<br />

in the coming weeks, opportunistic<br />

scalpers were quick to list their watches<br />

on eBay where prices were inflated to<br />

10 times the original price. At the time<br />

of publishing, the highest bid was at<br />

AU$7,327, with 39 bidders vying for the<br />

Mission to the Moon model. The startling<br />

truth is that this price is closer to the RRP<br />

for the original Omega Speedmaster!<br />

Making the pricepoint accessible to the<br />

masses has not stopped people from paying<br />

exorbitant prices on the secondary market<br />

for immediate access to a MoonSwatch.<br />

With the Watches & Wonders trade fair<br />

in Geneva right around the corner and<br />

big brands such as Rolex, Cartier and<br />

Patek Phillipe launching bold new models<br />

(with equally bold price tags), it feels ironic<br />

that this modest timepiece has snatched<br />

headlines and stolen the limelight.<br />

What does this say about consumers<br />

today, and does this herald positive<br />

news for the watch industry?<br />

Brand value builds the queue<br />

For watch lovers, there’s little wonder<br />

that the MoonSwatch amassed so much<br />

traction. The release celebrates one of the<br />

most iconic timepieces ever created by<br />

Omega – the Speedmaster, with the most<br />

renowned watchmaker in the world, Swatch.<br />

While some pessimists have criticised the<br />

collaboration, bemoaning the dilution of an<br />

iconic brand, others have lauded the project.<br />

The ‘glass half full’ crowd is saying that this<br />

release lifted Swatch’s profile beyond the<br />

status of a manufacturer of cheap plastic<br />

quartz watches, with others suggesting<br />

the stage is now prepared for more exciting<br />

collaborations to come, not just for its own<br />

stable of brands, but also for others.<br />

What both crowds seem to forget is that<br />

selling ‘cheap plastic quartz watches’ is<br />

what enabled Swatch Group to become<br />

the juggernaut that owns Omega – not<br />

the other way around!<br />

Under the magnifying glass, it’s difficult<br />

to scrutinise the story and heritage of this<br />

project. By referencing the original Omega<br />

Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch<br />

that was worn by Buzz Aldrin during<br />

the Apollo 11 moon landing in 1969, the<br />

collection was released with 11 colour<br />

palettes – each representing a different<br />

planet within the solar system. At a<br />

friendly price point, it allows enthusiasts<br />

access without breaking the bank and<br />

forking out AU$7,600 for an original<br />

42mm Professional Chronograph. The<br />

result? A golden product that conjures<br />

desirability at a price anyone could afford.<br />

Collaborations between fast fashion and<br />

luxury designers have been going on for<br />

more than a decade and are usually<br />

well-received by consumers. It's surprising<br />

that the conservative Swiss have only now<br />

taken a bite from this apple.<br />

Collaborations<br />

between fast<br />

fashion and<br />

luxury designers<br />

have been going<br />

on for more<br />

than a decade<br />

and are usually<br />

well-received by<br />

consumers. It's<br />

surprising that<br />

the conservative<br />

Swiss have only<br />

now taken a bite<br />

from this apple.<br />

This Omega x Swatch collaboration may<br />

prove to be a spark that starts a fire amidst<br />

the resurging popularity of traditional<br />

watches. Only time will tell. One thing is<br />

for sure: more collaborations between<br />

watch brands will most likely continue<br />

following the success of this recent event.<br />

After all, reigniting the market share of<br />

quartz and mechanical watch-wearers<br />

from recent collectors or smartwatch<br />

converts bodes well for the industry.<br />

This sort of marketing and innovation is<br />

welcome, especially when the traditional<br />

watch trade was said to be dated.<br />

Regardless of what the critics say, judging<br />

by the reception, this is a win for the industry.<br />

The post-smartwatch era<br />

For almost a decade since the widespread<br />

adoption of the Apple Watch, pundits have<br />

speculated that the tech intrusion into the<br />

market was the beginning of the end for<br />

the traditional analogue watch. For a<br />

fraction of the cost, you can monitor<br />

your health, answer calls and set infinite<br />

reminders with a smartwatch. It’s only fair<br />

that many have asked the question: is the<br />

traditional wristwatch now obsolete?<br />

Fast forward to <strong>2022</strong> consumers appear<br />

to finally have grown tired of having their<br />

lives dominated by 24-hour notifications.<br />

As the world exits the COVID pandemic<br />

there is a growing trend for consumers to<br />

'declutter' and 'detox' from tech, coupled<br />

with extensive social media campaigns<br />

driven by brands that are eager to highlight<br />

the beauty of traditional watchmaking, the<br />

rise in demand for traditional wristwatches<br />

has come back with a vengeance.<br />

Might I add that we didn't see headlines<br />

of police intervention during the 2015<br />

launch of Apple x Hermés at the height<br />

of its popularity!<br />

While there will always be a market for both<br />

categories, consumers today, particularly<br />

millennials, have shown a preference for<br />

classic products that withstand the test<br />

of time – this is good news for traditional<br />

watch companies, especially those with a<br />

strong brand heritage.<br />

This growing group of aficionados proudly<br />

set themselves apart as connoisseurs of<br />

craftsmanship and history. Now is the time<br />

for brands to reinvigorate themselves and<br />

celebrate their story.<br />

Angela Han<br />

Publisher<br />

<strong>April</strong> <strong>2022</strong> | 11

Hooray! Your file is uploaded and ready to be published.

Saved successfully!

Ooh no, something went wrong!