Jeweller - April 2022
Diamond disruption: How the Russia-Ukraine conflict is changing global trade High time for change: Where to for watch brands after Baselworld? Darkness & light: Uncover the mysteries of black and white gemstones
Diamond disruption: How the Russia-Ukraine conflict is changing global trade
High time for change: Where to for watch brands after Baselworld?
Darkness & light: Uncover the mysteries of black and white gemstones
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RUS SI A'S PRIDE<br />
Alrosa's<br />
Record Roughs<br />
by ROBERT BOUQUET<br />
242-carats<br />
White Diamond<br />
February 2021<br />
'The Spectacle' is Alrosa's<br />
largest polished white<br />
diamond. The 100.94-carat<br />
rectangular step-cut diamond<br />
was sold at Christie's in May 2021<br />
for US $14.1 million.<br />
It seems like only yesterday that I was reporting<br />
that the diamond trading centres had<br />
kicked-off the year in a bullish mood and<br />
that there were significant price increases at the<br />
most recent De Beers’ ‘sight’ and that “Alrosa is<br />
expected to follow suit”.<br />
Over the past two years and during the pandemic I had<br />
predicted the diamond industry would recover to much<br />
better times as economies revive, consumer spending<br />
accelerates and demand for the one product that provides<br />
the ultimate expression of love matches the level of<br />
emotional response and outpouring that the world<br />
understandably feels the need to make after COVID-19.<br />
It was only three months ago I concluded that <strong>2022</strong> was<br />
going to be exciting. The industry had a lot of opportunity in<br />
front of it, mining companies were facing a potential bumper<br />
year and the trade must be careful in maintaining margins<br />
throughout the pipeline.<br />
Even though the diamond industry was facing a rosy period,<br />
I also noted that it faced risk on the macroeconomic side,<br />
including geopolitical threats between Russia and the West<br />
over Ukraine. I also noted seemingly worsening relations<br />
between China and the West and increasing energy costs.<br />
I concluded by saying: “Hopefully, none of these issues will<br />
destabilise the positive momentum of the diamond industry;<br />
but these are areas of risk.”<br />
Well, there is no doubt that times have changed.<br />
The current state of play<br />
At the time of writing, the diamond industry is in a confused<br />
state. In recent times the rough diamond segment has<br />
boomed with continuously rising polished prices, diamond<br />
jewellery retail sales surging in the US and recovering in<br />
China; marginal diamond miners performing much better<br />
against a backdrop of seemingly constantly increasing<br />
rough prices.<br />
And yet even though we operate in a unique, exciting and<br />
often dazzling business, we must always remember that the<br />
diamond industry is not immune to external economic and<br />
geopolitical pressures.<br />
Alrosa is the world’s largest producer of rough diamonds<br />
by carats, producing around 32 million carats per annum,<br />
which equates to about 30 per cent of the world supply. It<br />
has the world’s largest diamond reserves (over 1 billion<br />
carats in the ground). The Russian company is expected<br />
236-carats<br />
Intense yellow-brown diamond<br />
August 2020<br />
191.46-carats<br />
White diamond<br />
January 2019<br />
"Sputnik V"<br />
100.53-carats<br />
Yellow diamond<br />
February 2021<br />
"Kyndykan"<br />
91.86-carats<br />
Yellow-brown diamond<br />
January <strong>2022</strong><br />
"Nijinsky"<br />
27.85-carats<br />
Pink diamond<br />
September 2017<br />
to stay in ‘pole position’ as the largest producer for many<br />
years to come.<br />
While there are a number of mining companies operating<br />
in Russia, Alrosa produces more than 90 per cent of all<br />
diamonds. Alrosa also has diamond mining projects in<br />
Angola and exploration development in Zimbabwe, but the<br />
current focus is very much on diamonds being exported<br />
from Russia.<br />
Alrosa is owned 33 per cent by the Russian government,<br />
33 per cent by the Republic of Sakha (in the far east of<br />
Russia, where most of the Russian diamonds are mined)<br />
with the balance being traded on the Moscow Exchange<br />
(Russian stock market).<br />
At the end of February, Alrosa’s share price fell to a low of<br />
68.00 rubles ($US0.62) compared with the 12-month high<br />
of 150 rubles ($US1.37).<br />
Alrosa is the world’s largest producer of rough<br />
diamonds by carats, producing around 32 million<br />
carats per annum, which equates to about<br />
30 per cent of the world supply.<br />
The Russian invasion of Ukraine has created an extremely<br />
volatile and unpredictable situation. It’s a situation that is<br />
certainly out of the hands of the diamond industry itself.<br />
People are dying in Ukraine and for some worrying about<br />
the diamond industry may seem trite.<br />
At the time of publication, sanctions have been further<br />
strengthened against Russian diamond interests. The first<br />
step was sanctions imposed on both Alrosa and its CEO.<br />
The initial sanctions were designed to reduce Russia’s ability<br />
to finance its military operations; in Alrosa’s case specifically<br />
to ‘prohibit transactions and dealings by U.S. persons or<br />
within the United States in new debt of longer than 14 days<br />
maturity and new equity.’<br />
This meant that Alrosa was initially prevented from raising<br />
funds over a period of more than 14 days. But what did this<br />
mean in practice?<br />
It actually meant that the sales of rough could still take<br />
place; and sales are still taking place. Some transactions<br />
are being made in alternative currencies such as rubles or<br />
euros - this was an option that Alrosa had been previously<br />
considering offering to its clients anyway.<br />
Rough diamonds can be shipped using different methods<br />
<strong>April</strong> <strong>2022</strong> | 33