31.03.2022 Views

Jeweller - April 2022

Diamond disruption: How the Russia-Ukraine conflict is changing global trade High time for change: Where to for watch brands after Baselworld? Darkness & light: Uncover the mysteries of black and white gemstones

Diamond disruption: How the Russia-Ukraine conflict is changing global trade
High time for change: Where to for watch brands after Baselworld?
Darkness & light: Uncover the mysteries of black and white gemstones

SHOW MORE
SHOW LESS

Create successful ePaper yourself

Turn your PDF publications into a flip-book with our unique Google optimized e-Paper software.

RUS SI A'S PRIDE<br />

Alrosa's<br />

Record Roughs<br />

by ROBERT BOUQUET<br />

242-carats<br />

White Diamond<br />

February 2021<br />

'The Spectacle' is Alrosa's<br />

largest polished white<br />

diamond. The 100.94-carat<br />

rectangular step-cut diamond<br />

was sold at Christie's in May 2021<br />

for US $14.1 million.<br />

It seems like only yesterday that I was reporting<br />

that the diamond trading centres had<br />

kicked-off the year in a bullish mood and<br />

that there were significant price increases at the<br />

most recent De Beers’ ‘sight’ and that “Alrosa is<br />

expected to follow suit”.<br />

Over the past two years and during the pandemic I had<br />

predicted the diamond industry would recover to much<br />

better times as economies revive, consumer spending<br />

accelerates and demand for the one product that provides<br />

the ultimate expression of love matches the level of<br />

emotional response and outpouring that the world<br />

understandably feels the need to make after COVID-19.<br />

It was only three months ago I concluded that <strong>2022</strong> was<br />

going to be exciting. The industry had a lot of opportunity in<br />

front of it, mining companies were facing a potential bumper<br />

year and the trade must be careful in maintaining margins<br />

throughout the pipeline.<br />

Even though the diamond industry was facing a rosy period,<br />

I also noted that it faced risk on the macroeconomic side,<br />

including geopolitical threats between Russia and the West<br />

over Ukraine. I also noted seemingly worsening relations<br />

between China and the West and increasing energy costs.<br />

I concluded by saying: “Hopefully, none of these issues will<br />

destabilise the positive momentum of the diamond industry;<br />

but these are areas of risk.”<br />

Well, there is no doubt that times have changed.<br />

The current state of play<br />

At the time of writing, the diamond industry is in a confused<br />

state. In recent times the rough diamond segment has<br />

boomed with continuously rising polished prices, diamond<br />

jewellery retail sales surging in the US and recovering in<br />

China; marginal diamond miners performing much better<br />

against a backdrop of seemingly constantly increasing<br />

rough prices.<br />

And yet even though we operate in a unique, exciting and<br />

often dazzling business, we must always remember that the<br />

diamond industry is not immune to external economic and<br />

geopolitical pressures.<br />

Alrosa is the world’s largest producer of rough diamonds<br />

by carats, producing around 32 million carats per annum,<br />

which equates to about 30 per cent of the world supply. It<br />

has the world’s largest diamond reserves (over 1 billion<br />

carats in the ground). The Russian company is expected<br />

236-carats<br />

Intense yellow-brown diamond<br />

August 2020<br />

191.46-carats<br />

White diamond<br />

January 2019<br />

"Sputnik V"<br />

100.53-carats<br />

Yellow diamond<br />

February 2021<br />

"Kyndykan"<br />

91.86-carats<br />

Yellow-brown diamond<br />

January <strong>2022</strong><br />

"Nijinsky"<br />

27.85-carats<br />

Pink diamond<br />

September 2017<br />

to stay in ‘pole position’ as the largest producer for many<br />

years to come.<br />

While there are a number of mining companies operating<br />

in Russia, Alrosa produces more than 90 per cent of all<br />

diamonds. Alrosa also has diamond mining projects in<br />

Angola and exploration development in Zimbabwe, but the<br />

current focus is very much on diamonds being exported<br />

from Russia.<br />

Alrosa is owned 33 per cent by the Russian government,<br />

33 per cent by the Republic of Sakha (in the far east of<br />

Russia, where most of the Russian diamonds are mined)<br />

with the balance being traded on the Moscow Exchange<br />

(Russian stock market).<br />

At the end of February, Alrosa’s share price fell to a low of<br />

68.00 rubles ($US0.62) compared with the 12-month high<br />

of 150 rubles ($US1.37).<br />

Alrosa is the world’s largest producer of rough<br />

diamonds by carats, producing around 32 million<br />

carats per annum, which equates to about<br />

30 per cent of the world supply.<br />

The Russian invasion of Ukraine has created an extremely<br />

volatile and unpredictable situation. It’s a situation that is<br />

certainly out of the hands of the diamond industry itself.<br />

People are dying in Ukraine and for some worrying about<br />

the diamond industry may seem trite.<br />

At the time of publication, sanctions have been further<br />

strengthened against Russian diamond interests. The first<br />

step was sanctions imposed on both Alrosa and its CEO.<br />

The initial sanctions were designed to reduce Russia’s ability<br />

to finance its military operations; in Alrosa’s case specifically<br />

to ‘prohibit transactions and dealings by U.S. persons or<br />

within the United States in new debt of longer than 14 days<br />

maturity and new equity.’<br />

This meant that Alrosa was initially prevented from raising<br />

funds over a period of more than 14 days. But what did this<br />

mean in practice?<br />

It actually meant that the sales of rough could still take<br />

place; and sales are still taking place. Some transactions<br />

are being made in alternative currencies such as rubles or<br />

euros - this was an option that Alrosa had been previously<br />

considering offering to its clients anyway.<br />

Rough diamonds can be shipped using different methods<br />

<strong>April</strong> <strong>2022</strong> | 33

Hooray! Your file is uploaded and ready to be published.

Saved successfully!

Ooh no, something went wrong!