GG_N47_Complet_Italie

MAELI 

A DREAM CALLED 

MOSCATO GIALLO 

PAGES 128-138 

OUR SPRING SELECTIONS 

ROMANIA, SOUTH 

AFRICA, BURGUNDY 

AND THE LOIRE VALLEY 

SPRING 2022 

L 19045 - 47 - F: 7,95 € - RD 

Elisa Dilavanzo, 

at the helm of 

the Maeli vineyard 

in the Euganei hills

Enter your wines now: en-vigneron.gilbertgaillard.com

CONTENTS 

COLUMNS / REPORTS 

10 

8 

News 

10 

Focus 

Inside the incredible 

variety of Loire red 

wines 

26 

Insight 

In 2022, Hong Kong is 

still a vibrant hub for 

wine 

50 

Grape varieties 

South Africa: 

Soil-searching for fine 

Pinotage 

60 

Region 

Alsace and its first-rate 

Crémants 

70 

Appellation 

Good value Burgundy 

108 

New generation 

“Ma Roumanie contée” – 

tales of Romanian wine 

125 

Stars & wine 

Geena Davis: “I didn’t 

wait to meet a man to 

find out how to uncork a 

good bottle of wine!” 

127 

Contact details 

40 

28 

Region 

The multi-talented 

Catalonia 

81 

Insight 

In IGP country, Pays 

d’Oc reigns supreme 

128 

Spring selection 

2022 

40 

Wine women portraits 

Italian wine in the 

present and future as 

seen by eight women 

89 

Label 

Terra Vitis: The rising 

star of environmental 

endorsements 

60 

101 

Wine grower 

portraits 

A road trip through 

Navarre 

108 

Gilbert & Gaillard next issue 

Summer 2022 

COVER: COURTESY OF THE ESTATES 

SPRING 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 

3

EDITORIAL 

FRANÇOIS GILBERT - EDITORIAL DIRECTOR 

NAVARRE, WHERE GRENACHE 

REIGNS SUPREME 

Independent through to the 16th century, the 

Kingdom of Navarre was established in 824 by the 

Vascones, the ancestors of the present-day Basques. 

Its footprint was originally more extensive, stretching 

north of the Pyrenees. Its somewhat chequered 

history probably explains why its wine industry 

was neither particularly developed nor renowned. 

Southern Navarre – to focus solely on the Spanish 

part of this very ancient province – is now among 

regions (the Chartered Community of Navarre) that 

enjoy fairly broad-ranging autonomy. Primarily 

famed for its quaffing-style rosés in the past – made 

from widespread plantations of Grenache vines 

following the phylloxera crisis – it has now successfully 

broken free of the shackles of pink wine. It has 

even produced some very classic reds, akin to those 

in the neighbouring region of Rioja – in fact some of 

them are marketed under the famous appellation. 

The current trend, though, is clearly focused on fine, 

structured, aromatic red wines, often made from the 

region’s iconic grape variety that is Grenache. Rioja’s 

highly prized Tempranillo, however, is also grown, as 

are French cousins Merlot and Cabernet-Sauvignon. 

We took an indulgent tour of the region sandwiched 

between the river Ebro and the hills that roll all the 

way to the Pyrenees. Isabelle Escande’s refreshing 

feature report (pages 107 to 113) accurately encapsulates 

the new spirit that prevails across Navarre. We 

encourage you to discover this dynamic and endearing 

wine region through the portraits of four Bodegas 

with a strong local rooting, and concern for the environment, 

innovation and the arts. This is one breath of 

fresh air that you can soak up to your heart’s content! 

4 SPRING 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

EDITORIAL 

PHILIPPE GAILLARD - EDITORIAL DIRECTOR 

PINOTAGE, SOUTH AFRICA’S 

DARLING GRAPE 

When Stellenbosch university researcher 

Abraham Perold created a cross between Pinot 

noir and Cinsault in 1925, little did he know that 

the resultant grape variety would be such a resounding 

success. In the very heart of the South African 

winelands, he intended to leverage the robustness of 

Hermitage (aka Cinsault) and the finesse of Pinot noir 

to produce a top quality cultivar. Success, however, 

would not come instantly – Perold would leave the 

university and the clutch of Pinotage vines there 

would be left uncared-for. It was only in the post-war 

period that the programme was re-launched and at 

the end of the 1950s, the variety became commercially 

available. Since then, it has enjoyed sustained success. 

Many producers began planting Pinotage, to varying 

degrees of success. As an early-ripening and fairly 

easy variety to grow, it was highly sought-after but 

challenging to make, requiring very skilled winemaking 

techniques. Now, it is the iconic grape variety in 

South Africa, which is virtually the only country in the 

world to produce it. Its acreage has risen significantly 

over the past few years and it thrives when grown as 

a bush vine or as old vines. Both in blends and as a 

single varietal, it invariably brings lots of character 

to the wines, and although it is by no means the most 

widely planted cultivar in South Africa, the local winegrowers 

cherish it. Samarie Smith, our South African 

reporter, tells you everything there is to know about 

Pinotage with her inimitable verve. And don’t forget 

to take a look at our selection of Pinotage wines at the 

end of the magazine. 


5

EDITORIAL 

SYLVAIN PATARD - EDITOR IN CHIEF 

LOIRE REDS – A DEEP-ROOTED SENSE 

OF AUTHENTICITY 

Let’s be honest – there are no superstar red wines 

from the Loire Valley. No local equivalent of the 

Rhone’s Côte-Rôtie or Bordeaux’s Saint-Emilion. 

But what there is, is a profusion of talent. From 

Nantes to Saint-Pourçain is an impressive line-up of 

remarkable and distinctive wines, in total harmony 

with their terroir and their region. They range from 

perky Gamays from the Nantes region to zesty Anjou, 

complex Saumur-Champigny, proud Bourgueil made 

from the same Cabernet Franc, or Gamay, Cabernet 

and Côt from Touraine, red Sancerre from Pinot noir 

and Saint-Pourçain with its gravelly accent – all of 

them absolute gems. 

Not only do the region’s wines – particularly the reds 

– offer quality and diversity, they also boast the kind 

of authenticity that wine enthusiasts are increasingly 

craving. You won’t find any expensive futuristic, architect-designed 

wineries here, and the region’s few 

chateaux tend to be understated rather than overstated. 

But what you will find are winegrowers who 

greet you, who live their passion to the full, with a 

firm rooting in their home region, in the house where 

their parents and grandparents before them have 

lived. This configuration is one that unquestionably 

appeals to present-day consumers, especially as it 

comes complete with affordable prices – a case of the 

region’s wine will often set you back much less than a 

full tank of petrol nowadays! As Jérémy Lorieux says so 

rightly when describing his Bourgueil in our feature 

report (pages 10 to 25): “These are supple, rounded 

and accessible wines, both for their flavour and their 

price tag”. His description is one that applies to all the 

appellations across this extensive region, and makes 

an appropriate conclusion to our report. 


Cavavin N°47_Mise en page 1 23/03/2022 18:25 Page 1 

DOMAINE DES RAYNIÈRES 

2020 

CHÂTEAU PENNAUTIER 

2020 

Saumur 

Cabardès 

FOUR 

WINEMAKERS 

FOR 

SPRING 

2022 

€ 5.50* 

Frédéric TROTTA 

CAVAVIN VARCES ALLIÈRES ET RISSET 

4, Impasse des Tanneries 

38760 VARCES ALLIERES ET RISSET 

( +33 9 81 83 50 60 

* varces@cavavin.fr 

CHÂTEAU DU GOING 

DE SAINT-FIACRE 2018 

Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie 

€ 9.60* 

Laurent GENAY 

CAVAVIN VANNES 

32, rue Hoche 

56000 VANNES 

( +33 9 82 43 70 17 

* vannes@cavavin.fr 

€ 7.50* 

Vincent MÉLISSON 

CAVAVIN LA CHAPELLE SUR ERDRE 

12, Place de l’Église 

44240 LA CHAPELLE SUR ERDRE 

( +33 2 28 24 77 72 

* lachapelle@cavavin.fr 

CHÂTEAU D’OLLIÈRES 

2020 

Coteaux Varois en Provence 

€ 9.90* 

Joris FISTOLET 

CAVAVIN LYON 06 

35, Cours Vitton 

69006 LYON 

( +33 9 87 57 26 46 

* lyon6@cavavin.fr 

* Retail price including sales tax 

7, parc des Fontenelles - 78870 Bailly - France 

Tel.: +33 1 30 80 08 08 - Fax: +33 1 30 80 08 88 

Editorial Directors: François Gilbert and Philippe Gaillard 

Editor in chief: Sylvain Patard 

Tasting committee: François Gilbert, Philippe Gaillard, Sylvain Patard, 

François Bezuidenhout, Olivier Delorme, Matthieu Gaillard, James Turnbull 

Editorial staff: Michèle Huyard 

Contributors to this issue: Camille Bernard, Ellen Budge, Jean-Paul Burias, Isabelle 

Escande, Alain Echalier, Santiago Jiménez, Julia Scavo DipWSET, Samarie Smith 

DipWSET, Sylvain Patard, Frank Rousseau, Francesco Saverio Russo, Christelle Zamora 

Translation: Sharon Nagel, Rosa Almeida - CS Traduções, Marika Quarti 

Sales and Marketing Director: Etienne Gaillard : +33 6 30 97 87 26 

etienne@gilbertgaillard.com 

Advertising France: 

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Corsica - Languedoc - Provence - Rhône Valley: 

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Jura - Loire Valley - Savoy - South West - Roussillon: 

Caroline Gilbert: +33 6 84 92 57 61 - caroline@gilbertgaillard.com 

Alsace -Beaujolais - Burgundy - Champagne: 

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Gilbert & Gaillard is published by Vinipresse, SARL with a capital of 35,500 euros • Head Office: 7 parc des Fontenelles, 78870 Bailly, France • Legal 

representative and Editorial director: Sylvain Patard • Legal deposit: First quarter 2022 • Legal publication n° pending • ISSN 2110-6762 

Reproduction of part or all of the contents of this magazine in any form is expressly prohibited. Any company names that appear in the articles are given for 

information only and have no publicity purpose. 


7

NEWS 

COGNAC 

AN IMMERSIVE TOUR 

OF FRAPIN COGNAC 

The meeting place is the iconic facilities at Les Gabloteaux. The courtyard is 

surrounded by cellars rebuilt in the 19 th century. The blackened walls provide 

evidence of the constant evaporation of the share of Cognac gifted to the angels. 

The visit begins with visitors taken to see the chalky soils and care lavished 

on the grapes until they are fully ripe. Here, techniques move with the times, 

and include mechanisation, soil science and High Environmental Value 

endorsement. The wines are made in tall stainless steel tanks equipped with a 

system enabling precise control over fermentation. 

DISTILLATION 

The fire roars beneath the impressive copper pot stills. The alcohol vapours escape 

from the still head then the brandy runs out. From this point onwards, the art of 

the cellarmaster comes into its own. The cellarmaster assesses the flavour and 

aroma potential, thinks ahead to the maturation phase and directs the brandy 

towards the right cellar. 

THE CELLARS 

The barrels are lined up beneath the cobwebs, the silent witnesses to Cognac’s 

lengthy maturation. It is at this point that visitors invariably realise the handcrafted 

aspect of Frapin Cognacs. Once revealed, its expertise creates the impression 

of having entered into a secret, of knowing the outcome and being able to 

savour something rare. 

THE MUSEUM 

The museum depicts the highlights of the family history. From the Eiffel cellar, 

built in 1892, visitors plunge into the subdued light of the Paradis cellar where a 

treasure awaits – ‘hors d’âge’ brandies in demi-johns. It’s now time for the tasting 

and visitors can succumb to the charm of a Cognac XO (the company’s legacy) 

or a vintage (Trésors du Château). The visit includes a tasting of four Cognacs 

(excluding the ultra-high-end decanters Extra, Plume Frapin and Cuvée Rabelais). 

NEW TOUR -‘EXPERTISE’ 

Open all year round by appointment, from Monday to Friday. 

Duration: 1 ½ hours – Admission fee: €60 per person. 

Bookings: +33 5 45 83 40 03 - visites@cognac-frapin.com 


JOIN OUR 

SOCIAL 

MEDIA 

@gilbertgaillard 

#gilbertgaillard 

WINE REGION FOCUS 

WINE REVIEWS 

RARE BOTTLES 

WINEGROWERS’ PORTRAITS 


9

INSIDE THE INCREDIBLE 

VARIETY OF LOIRE 

RED WINES 

BY JEAN-PAUL BURIAS 

PHOTOGRAPHS: 

COURTESY OF THE ESTATES - 

© DE JONGHE 

Lining the banks of France’s most fickle river, the vineyards of the Loire Valley 

produce a monumental array of 51 appellations, whose diversity is jawdropping. 

France’s third largest wine region is popular for its white wines, but 

it also offers some remarkable reds whose quality is increasingly attracting 

attention. Combining an incredible mosaic of vineyard sites with superb 

authenticity, Loire reds cover the flavour spectrum and are gaining traction 

internationally. We look at them through the lens of 12 estates in 7 of the region’s 

appellations. 

DOMAINE DU HAUT FRESNE 


LOIRE VALLEY 

FOCUS 

THE VINEYARDS AT DOMAINE BENOÎT ROCHER 

T 

he visit engulfs you in a whirlwind of emotions, memories and flavours. 

Discovering the vineyards of the Loire Valley is like diving into an enormous 

region where the rolling hills seem to fuse with the heart of the Loire, France’s 

longest river whose banks are home to myriad landscapes and grape varieties. 

From Melon de Bourgogne to Chenin Blanc and Sauvignon blanc for the 

whites, and Cabernet Franc, Gamay and Pinot noir for the reds, the Loire wine 

region encompasses a unique array of 24 grape varieties. Strangely, however, 

some appellations, such as Sancerre, have built their reputation on their white 

wines, despite the fact that growing reds is particularly worthwhile here. For 

connoisseurs and inquisitive newbies alike, there is every style and price. At the 

core of the range is often Cabernet Franc, a distinctive grape variety, extolled by 

the French writer François Rabelais in the 16 th century. It may be less familiar 

than fellow grape variety Sauvignon, but with its subtle flavours and wonderful 


11

LOIRE VALLEY 

FOCUS 

BENOÎT ROCHER TASTING HIS WINES 

fresh notes, Cabernet Franc lends character and 

subtlety to world-famous appellations such as 

Anjou, Bourgueil, Chinon and Saumur-Champigny. 

Gamay and Pinot noir are two other Loire 

Valley varietal flagships, delivering accessibly 

flavoured fruity and floral wines that offer instant 

gratification. “Loire reds have everything going 

for them”, claims Pierre-Jean Sauvion, chairman 

of the communications board of the Loire Valley 

marketing association InterLoire and winemaker 

at Maison Sauvion. “They are definitely wines 

that sit comfortably with today and tomorrow’s 

consumers. With relatively low alcohol levels, 

they combine elegance, fruitiness and palatability. 

The Loire Valley has carved out a reputation 

for itself as a region where the wines pair with 

a wide variety of foods”. This dynamic approach 

to quality has secured Loire reds a place in many 

distribution channels, and they sell well in North 

America and Europe. So much so that a Loire 

Valley wine’s greatest rival may well be a counterpart 

from another area in this propitious winegrowing 

region, which never ceases to amaze. 

ANJOU: WINES FOR ALL TASTES 

AND SEASONS 

DOMAINE BENOÎT ROCHER 

Set in a stunning landscape, the hillsides of 

Anjou stretch along the banks of the Loire. The 

vineyards bask in a temperate oceanic climate, 

with relatively small variations in temperature, 

and a subsoil composed of slate, sandstone and 

carboniferous schist and volcanic rocks from the 

nearby Armorican Massif. Anjou’s variety and 

numerous microclimates promote production 

of a wide range of wines with quality as their 

common trait, from Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon, 

Gamay and Grolleau. In a former farm 

nestled above the famous Bonnezeaux hill, Benoît 

Rocher has been growing vines since 2001 and 

since 2018 has 20 hectares of vines certified as 

organic. “My red wines are distinctively powerful 

yet very rounded”, he explains. “The Cabernet 

Franc needs to be harvested when fully ripe or 

even slightly overripe. Customers want plea- 


LOIRE VALLEY 

FOCUS 

THE SETTING FOR DOMAINE DU HAUT FRESNE 

surable wines at affordable prices and above all, 

they are attracted to the authenticity of a wine 

made with the sole aim of being palate-pleasing 

and offer aromas and flavours that match their 

expectations”. The results more than deliver 

on these goals. Benoît Rocher’s estate wines 

have been extremely successful in restaurants 

and with private customers in France. They 

are gaining traction in export markets, selling 

to Hong Kong and to other countries where 

boutique volumes are ordered by an independent 

agent. The vineyards of Domaine du Haut Fresne 

Renou & Fils also run along the banks of the 

Loire on steep slopes, rooted in schist and gneiss 

which lend the wines freshness and minerality. 

The climate here is temperate, both sunnier and 

less windy than in Brittany. “The grape varieties 

we grow are mainly Melon de Bourgogne, 

Gamay noir, Pinot gris, Chenin blanc, Cabernet 

Franc and Chardonnay”, explains Jérôme Renou. 

“Our red Coteaux d’Ancenis, made from Gamay, 

displays distinctive easy-drinking, fruity, supple 

and slightly spicy characters. Our red Anjou 

wines, made from Cabernet Franc and Cabernet-Sauvignon, 

can be smooth, easy to drink 

and exceedingly fruity for the Traditionnel 

label, or more concentrated and therefore more 

age-worthy, particularly La Pigeonnelle, which is 

matured for a year in barrels”. 

JEAN-LUC, PASCAL AND JÉRÔME RENOU PERPETUATE THE REMARKABLE WORK 

BY THE ESTATE’S FOUNDER AT DOMAINE MICHEL RENOU 

BOURGUEIL: SHEER INDULGENCE 

The Bourgueil appellation is located on the 

floodplain of the Loire river and its landscape 

is marked by rolling hills studded with white 

houses and vines. Built from tuffeau stone, a 

light and solid porous rock with light, warm 

hues, the houses add genuine charm to the area’s 

winegrowing villages. A few miles away, Clos de 

l’Abbaye takes its evocative name from Bourgueil 

Abbey located at the heart of the estate, where 

Benedictine monks began growing vines in 

the 11 th century. Vines were grown consistently 

down the centuries, until the sisters of the Saint 

Martin Congregation put an end to winegrowing 


13

WORK IN THE VINEYARD 

FOLLOWS TRADITION AT 

CLOS DE L’ABBAYE 

BORDEAUX 

TRAVEL 

THE TEAM AT CLOS 

DE L’ABBAYE 

CLOS DE L’ABBAYE 


LOIRE VALLEY 

FOCUS 

CHRISTOPHE AND PHILIPPE PITAULT IN THEIR VINEYARDS AT DOMAINE LES PINS 

in 1974. A year later, Michel Lorieux acquired the estate, which has been certified 

as organic since 1998. In 2018, his son Jérémy and wife Faustine took over, 

ensuring a seamless transition after 43 years of work by the family. “The qualities 

of our Bourgueil wines mirror those of other Loire reds”, he says. “They are 

supple, rounded wines, which are easy to enjoy and affordable. Conversely, one 

of their downsides, particularly in export markets, is the name of the appellation 

– Bourgueil is difficult to pronounce in English and this has proven to 

be a barrier to export growth”. Customers enjoy the body, freshness, fruit and 

light tannins in these easy-drinking wines. “The issue of ageing often crops up”, 

says Jérémy Lorieux. “Customers often ask if our red wines can be laid down, to 

which we reply that, yes they can, for 2 to 5 years”. Located near a 15th century 

building, Domaine Les Pins Pitault-Landry has been a major family-run property 

within the appellation for five generations. With 29 hectares planted entirely to 

Cabernet Franc, Christophe and Philippe Pitault perpetuate skills that have been 

handed down through the generations. “We are blessed with the full range of 

soil types on our estate – sand, gravel, clay-silica and clay-limestone”, explains 

Christophe Pitault. “This variety gives our wines their distinctive characters 

and typicity”. The two brothers make wines that can be enjoyed from their first 

year, enhanced by freshness and suppleness with palate-pleasing aromas and 

rounded, fruity tannins that are the hallmark of top Loire wines. 


15

LOIRE VALLEY 

FOCUS 

SAINT-POURÇAIN: 

WINES TO DISCOVER 

Sometimes the obvious can be misleading. From outside the country, Saint-Pourçain 

may seem like a wine region that struggles to carve out a place for itself, 

well off the trodden path of the top appellations. But inquisitive consumers have 

been drawn to its charms and its reputation as a purveyor of quality products. 

Established in 1952, the Saint-Pourçain co-operative group has 80 members. 

Located in the centre of France, the region is very dynamic and works to a high 

standard. Stringent vineyard management, production techniques, yields, 

grape varieties and planting density were rewarded on 28 May 2009 when it 

secured Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) status. The vineyards farmed by 

winery members account for two thirds of the appellation’s area under vine, 

i.e. 380 hectares, and all the growers farm sustainably. In addition to quality 

white wines made from Chardonnay and the local Tressalier grape variety, the 

reds are made from a unique blend of Gamay and Pinot noir and the wines 

differ significantly from one vineyard site to another. “Our wines certainly fit 

FRÉDÉRIC GERMAIN, DIRECTOR OF THE THE SAINT-POURÇAIN CO-OPERATIVE GROUP 


THE SAINT-POURÇAIN 

CO-OPERATIVE GROUP 

WINERY 

A GREAT TEAM 

OF WINEGROWERS 

SYLVAIN MINOIS, WINEMAKER 

AT THE SAINT-POURÇAIN 

CO-OPERATIVE 


17

LOIRE VALLEY 

FOCUS 

DIDIER RAIMBAULT IN HIS VINEYARDS 

into a niche market with just 3 million bottles”, 

comments managing director Frédéric Germain. 

“But we produce wines showing a lot of freshness 

that have a modern, fashionable image. Most of 

our customers are loyal to our values and to wines 

that are fresh and enjoyable, and are now being 

exported to countries such as Australia and the 

UK”. High standards have reaped rewards and 

both red and white Saint-Pourçain wines have 

made huge strides in quality in recent years. The 

result is wines with a strong personality that are 

pleasant to drink on any occasion. 

SANCERRE: REDS TOO 

DIDIER RAIMBAULT WHO HEADS UP THE FAMILY ESTATE 

Set in the heart of Berry, a historic province 

of France extolled most notably by the novelist 

George Sand in the 19th century, Sancerre 

has established a reputation as a Loire standard-bearer. 

Extending over 14 villages and 

3,000 hectares, its sheltered hills with limestone 

and silica soils boasting perfect aspect and 

exposure allow the region to produce remarkable 

wines. The whites – 80% of the vineyards are 

planted to Sauvignon blanc – have admittedly 

garnered global acclaim but the reds are also an 

upcoming quality benchmark, even if they only 

account for 20% of vineyard area, planted to 

Pinot noir. Domaine Roger et Didier Raimbault 

is a regional staple and boasts a long-standing 

family tradition of winegrowing. A combination 

of experience, technique and location allow the 

two seasoned winegrowers to produce top-flight 

wines that encapsulate vintage variation. “Red 

Sancerre is delicate, fruity and subtle”, explains 

Didier Raimbault. “It shows a distinctively 

balanced structure, is supple and fine, mirroring 

Pinot noir, and pairs well with a wide range of 

foods. Our customers are looking for fruit, enjoyment 

and indulgency. The wines are palatable and 

easy to serve all year round. They sell mainly to 

private customers, wine shops and restaurants in 

France, but also in several export countries where 

they are viewed as a good alternative to the more 

expensive Burgundies”. 


LOIRE VALLEY 

FOCUS 

LAURENT JAMET IN HIS VINEYARDS AT DOMAINE DU FONDIS 

SAUMUR-CHAMPIGNY: 

A STRONG IDENTITY 

Not only do these wines have incredible visual 

appeal, they also offer a wake-up call for the 

senses. Their superb garnet red colour makes 

Saumur-Champigny wines vibrant. On the nose, 

their spicy aromas with typical perfumes of red 

fruit and liquorice herald full-bodied, well-balanced 

wines, with great freshness marking 

the finish. The Saumur-Champigny appellation 

covers nine villages near Souzay-Champigny on 

the left bank of the Loire. Set amidst stunning 

scenery, the troglodyte homes hewn out of the 

hillside come complete with amazing underground 

streets which connect the subterranean 

chasms with picturesque buildings clinging 

to the cliff faces. Vineyards grow on a well-exposed 

limestone plateau and have established the 

reputation of this high-end appellation. The soils 

here are strewn with sand, gravel and clay, which 

instil the wines with their unique characters. 

Wine and cuisine are a match made in heaven. 

The sixth-generation incumbent at Domaine 

Fondis is Laurent Jamet, originally a chef who 

took over the family estate in the 2000s with 

his wife Géraldine, an accountant at the time. 

With a house built in 1890 by its founders as the 

centrepiece, the estate covers 23 hectares, 12 of 

which are hived off for Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil. 

The estate expanded in 1999, when 11 

hectares were purchased on the right bank of 

the Loire to produce Saumur rosés and whites, 

Crémants de Loire and of course Saumur-Champigny. 

“We are lucky enough to produce wines 

in two appellations on either side of the Loire. 

Because of this, our wines show distinctive typicity 

whilst also encapsulating the hallmark Loire 

style”, says Géraldine Jamet. “Our Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil 

grows in sand and gravel wine. 

It displays a beautiful colour and can be enjoyed 

from the aperitif through to dessert, while our 

Saumur-Champigny is typical of a hillside wine 

with spicy notes. The Parfum Boisé label now 

complements the range and is sold in small 

quantities of just 1,800 bottles at the cellar door 

LAURENT AND GÉRALDINE JAMET IN FRONT OF THEIR ESTATE 


19

LOIRE VALLEY 

FOCUS 

only. After a year spent in oak, it is bottled, producing a more tannic, unusual 

wine with unmistakable ageing potential”. Domaine Fondis’ customer base is 

very varied. The cornerstone of its business model is sales at the cellar door facilities, 

alongside distribution in restaurants, wholesalers and wine shops, and 

to a smaller degree in supermarkets. This marketing scope helps open up new 

outlets, allowing the property to protect itself against vagaries in the market, a 

case in point being the pandemic. “This variety gives our customers choice in 

terms of colour, strength and typicity”, points out Laurent Jamet. “We produce 

two red appellations that some could view as rivals, but in actual fact they are 

fairly complementary, both for our customers and our winery”. Founded in 1771, 

Domaine Hauts de Sanziers stands out for its terroir-driven, characterful and 

easily recognisable wines. “Our range reflects the identity and authentic values 

of the vineyard sites. We produce Saumur, Saumur-Champigny, Saumur-Puy- 

Notre-Dame and Crémants de Loire”, says Jean-Charles Houet, who owns the 

estate with his brother Jean-François. “We create our wines from A to Z, from 

growing the vines to marketing our wines. Our 85-hectare estate is home to four 

grape varieties - 70% Cabernet Franc, 15% Chenin, 14% Chardonnay and 1% Sauvignon. 

We are located in the heart of the Saumur appellation, renowned for its 

reds”, says Jean-Charles Houet. “The wines are quite aromatic and light and offer 

great value for money. With three red appellations, we are always guaranteed 

of offering our clients the right wines to match their tastes”. In export markets, 

JEAN-CHARLES AND JEAN-FRANCOIS HOUET, THE OWNERS OF HAUTS DE SANZIERS 


LOIRE VALLEY 

FOCUS 

THE ENTRANCE TO DOMAINE DES HAUTS DE SANZIERS 

these quality wines are popular with American 

and Canadian consumers and also sell well 

across Europe, Germany and Belgium. “We 

don’t consider other Loire wines as rivals”, says 

Jean-François Houet. “Each terroir has its own 

specific features and therefore its differences. 

The wide range of grape varieties, vineyard sites 

and techniques is an advantage in the international 

marketplace”. Domaine des Bonneveaux 

taps into these same resources. The 15-hectare 

family estate, located in the best vineyard sites 

in the Saumur-Champigny appellation area, is 

run with respect shown for tradition. “Harvesting 

is still done by hand and the winemaking 

process uses temperature-controlled vats so that 

maceration can be perfectly controlled”, explains 

Nicolas Bourdoux who took over the estate in 

2002, after spending some time in Quebec. “Our 

range includes two old-vine Saumur-Champigny 

wines, a Traditional and a Special Nicolas label 

which has good ageing potential”. 

THE GRAPE HARVEST AT DOMAINE CHARBONNIER 

TOURAINE: 

TERROIR CHARACTERS 

The wine route across Touraine is like going on 

a journey back in history. Set amidst the storied 

Loire chateaux of Chambord, Azay-le-Rideau, 

Chenonceaux and Chaumont-sur-Loire, built at 

a time when the court of the kings of France was 

a customary resident of the region, the vineyards 

of Touraine extend over 5,000 hectares. They 

overlook the Loire and form green lines across 

the hillsides bordering the Cher. Domaine Charbonnier 

has 22 hectares of vines, 40% of them 

white and 60% red. Daniel Charbonnier retired 

in 2009 and his brother Michel now runs the 

estate with his nephew Stéphane. “Our wines 

differ from each other”, says Stéphane Charbonnier. 

“We produce light Gamay and Pinot noirstyle 

reds that are pleasantly fruity, and more 

structured wines such as Cabernet Franc and 

Malbec. Our Prestige label is a blend of Malbec 

and Cabernet Franc, which shows real substance 

and ageing potential”. Near Château de 


21

LOIRE VALLEY 

FOCUS 

Chenonceaux is the family-run Domaine Joël Delaunay. It covers 37 hectares in 

the Touraine and Touraine-Chenonceaux appellation areas and is set in a pristine 

landscape. “For our red wines, we use different grape varieties that have different 

characteristics”, explains Thierry Delaunay. “Gamay imparts fresh fruit, floral 

notes and freshness. Cabernet Franc lends structure, supple tannins and black 

fruit, whilst Côt is popular for its spicy, fruity side. The advantage of working 

with several grape varieties is that they can be blended and therefore produce 

wines that are both fruity and structured. Also, such a varied range allows us to 

reach out to a broad-ranging audience”. The freshness of Touraine wines is the 

perfect fit for the current consumer trend favouring light, easy-drinking red 

wines. The downside of the wines, if you could call it that, is the fact that their 

structure and richness do not make them suitable for lengthy ageing – these 

are early-drinking wines. “We ferment and mature our wines in stainless steel 

tanks, protecting freshness, varietal and terroir characters”, says Delaunay. “Our 

customers are drawn to the wines’ accessibility, both for price and flavour. These 

are indulgent offerings that are easy to serve on any occasion”. 

THIERRY DELAUNAY IN HIS VINEYARDS 


THIERRY DELAUNAY IN 

FRONT OF HIS ESTATE 


23

LOIRE VALLEY 

FOCUS 

LOIRE VALLEY: 

FROM MUSCADET TO GAMAY 

CHRISTIAN DUMORTIER IN HIS VINEYARDS AT CHÂTEAU DE LA PREUILLE 

Wines from the Loire Valley offer a good opportunity 

to discover quality red wines with assertive 

characters that remain largely under-theradar. 

Château de La Preuille is a Muscadet 

institution, whose white wines are an absolute 

benchmark, but its remarkable Gamays, 

combining impeccably controlled yields and 

winemaking techniques, also set it apart. With 

a superb feudal castle not far away, Philippe 

Dumortier and his brother Christian Dumortier, 

the eleventh generation of a family of 

winegrowers, have given a red PGI (protected 

geographical indication) its pedigree. “Preuille 

comes from the Latin petra or petrosus which 

means a stony and rocky place”, says Christian 

Dumortier. “The vineyard grows on outstanding 

granite soils which shine through in the wines. 

Using traditional winemaking techniques and 

wild ferments, and avoiding use of wholecluster 

fermentation, produces a wine with an 

extensive array of aromas. The Grande Tradition 

Saint-Hilaire label epitomises the kind of 

site-expressive wine enthusiasts love, with its 

lively, elegant structure, floral aromas and lovely 

mineral touch”. 

CROWD-PLEASING WINES 

THE LONG CELLAR AT CHÂTEAU DE LA PREUILLE 

The outstanding variety offered by the Loire 

Valley makes it one of France’s most fascinating 

wine regions. From its varied vineyard sites 

stem some absolute gems, from dry to sweet 

whites and Crémants, but also reds displaying 

myriad flavours. As food-friendly wines for 

pleasure, they have the immeasurable benefit of 

being multi-faceted, and therefore the ability to 

provide a wide range of drinking experiences. 

Their hallmark freshness and varied flavours 

allow imbibers to get their creative juices 

flowing when it comes to food pairings, which 

can be extremely bold. The wines are suitable for 

any occasion and festive moments. They range 


LOIRE VALLEY 

FOCUS 

from simple, easy-drinking bottlings to more complex pours, but their price 

tag is invariably reasonable. They over-deliver on quality, from the smooth 

composure of Cabernet Franc in Chinon, Bourgueil and Saumur-Champigny 

to the moreish flavours of Gamay from Touraine, offering an extensive array of 

pleasure-driven appellations that deserve to be better known. The Loire Valley 

covers an extensive area and can therefore lay claim to a plethora of vineyard 

sites with a wide variety of soil types and weather patterns that range from 

oceanic to continental. These natural conditions and impeccable mastery of 

the winemaking process have combined to produce remarkable red wines that 

have everything it takes to ensure global appeal among an increasingly large 

following of consumers. 

THE VINEYARDS OF SAINT-POURÇAIN WITH THE PUY-DE-DÔME 

WHOSE PEAK STANDS AT 1,465 METRES IN THE DISTANCE 


25

IMPORTER 

INSIGHT 

IN 2022, HONG KONG 

IS STILL A VIBRANT HUB 

FOR WINE 

BY ELLEN BUDGE 

PHOTOGRAPHS: 

COURTESY OF THE ESTATES 

It’s been over a decade now since Hong Kong abolished taxes on wine and since then the region 

has delivered on its promise of becoming the wine hub of Asia. The market is supported by a 

plethora of experienced fine wine merchants, one of which is Pinewood Wine. Its managing 

director Edward Lau outlines where the market is heading. 

EDWARD LAU PINEWOOD 

According to official forecasts, wine trade revenue in Hong Kong is expected to grow 7.63% 

per annum between 2021 and 2025, underscoring the market’s vibrancy. Here too, Covid-19 

has been a game-changer but Pinewood Wine, founded in 2013, has successfully leveraged some 

of those changes. “When people are restricted from dining out, the major revenue falls on online 

platforms/supermarkets”, says Lau, whose company’s key partners are e-commerce platforms 

such as HKTVmall, Ztore, Clublike and Big Big Channel. The e-tailers generate impressive sales 

volumes, with single items potentially selling 30,000 bottles on just one platform. Likewise, the 

switch from travel to wine and dine spending is a major focus for Pinewood Wine, which also 

works with dining groups such as Mira Dining and the Shangrila group to roll out a number of 

brand-promotion programmes. The focus aligns well with its portfolio, heavily skewed towards 

Old World wines, mainly France, Spain and Italy. It runs the gamut in terms of pricing, from 

entry-level through to expensive fine wines, and both ends of 

the spectrum are currently performing well. Its range embraces 

over 1,000 wines, including 22 exclusive brands, some of them 

prestigious wine estates and family-owned boutique wineries 

imported directly to Hong Kong and Macau. Aside from value 

for money, which is always top of the buying agenda, Pinewood’s 

team of young, adventurous buyers – mirroring its clientele – 

sets great store by exclusiveness. “A lot of trust is needed for this 

kind of partnership since we tailor marketing and sales strategies 

to each supplier based on their product portfolio”, explains Lau, 

who foresees continued growth in the market going into 2022. 

His optimism stems from a patent thirst for knowledge and good 

wine in Hong Kong: “More and more people are interested in 

taking wine courses or wine appreciation classes as entertainment”, 

he says, pointing to the potential this holds for under-theradar 

wines to capture consumers’ imagination. 


THE MULTI-TALENTED 

CATALONIA 

BY SANTIAGO JIMENEZ 

PHOTOGRAPHS: 


Catalonia’s location provides it with all the requisite ingredients to create a 

plethora of varied terroirs, and climates. The changing landforms, too, spawn 

myriad types of terrain and microclimates. Combined, their diversity has led to 

the emergence of one of Spain’s most interesting wine regions. 

A BEAUTIFUL BUNCH OF GARNACHA BLANCA GRAPES AT ALTAVINS 


SPAIN 

REGION 

THE SUN SETS OVER THE VINEYARDS AT BUIL & GINÉ 

T 

he Pyrenees to the North act as a barrier against air currents descending from 

northern Europe. The breezes rising off the Mediterranean Sea to the East bring 

dampness, whilst continental air travels from the centre of the country in the West, 

and warmer, southerly air arrives from North Africa. Added to this is the region’s 

varied orography, from the Pyrenees through to the Serralada Prelitoral which 

divides the region into two parts from North to South. The Serralada Litoral, which 

is only a few kilometres from the sea, and the complex geography of the province 

of Tarragona, together with other unique features, produce multiple vineyard sites. 

All of this factors in to produce one of the most interesting wine regions in Spain. 

The Autonomous Community of Catalonia, together with Castile y León, is one of the 

Spanish regions with the largest number of Designations of Origin within its boundaries. 

The largest concentration of these appellations is in the ‘southern hemisphere’ 

of Catalonia (D.O. Conca de Barberá, D.O. Montsant, D.O. Penedés, D.O.Q.Priorat, 

D.O. Tarragona and D.O. Terra Alta), whilst the balance is slightly more spread out 

across the rest of the region: D.O. Empordà in the Girona area, D.O. Alella and D.O. 

Bages in the province of Barcelona, and D.O. Costers del Segre in the province of 

Lérida. In addition, there are two Designations of Origin that cover different and 

diverse areas. On one side is D.O. Catalunya, which, as its name suggests, includes 

all wines produced in the region that do not come under any of the aforementioned 

Designations of Origin. On the other side is D.O. Cava which, although it originates 

in the Penedés region (and should not be confused with D.O. Penedés), extends its 

reach beyond Catalonia and is not exclusive to the area. 


29

SPAIN 

REGION 

According to the latest data, updated in October 2021 and pertaining to 2020, 

vineyards for all Catalan Designations of Origin* cover 40,985 hectares with the 

number of registered winegrowers standing at 7,703. The number of wineries registered 

is 1,158 and 39,666,094 bottles were sold ** worth 181,574,000 euros. 

* These figures exclude the D. O. Cava appellation, which includes several autonomous 

communities. For the Catalonia appellation only the producers who are exclusive 

to this appellation are included, but not the number of bottles sold or the total 

value in euros, details of which were not provided. 

** The total value does not include the D.O. Alella appellation. 

Our report features 5 Designations of Origin, as seen through their wineries, each 

of which is representative of that DO. 

D.O. BAGES – ABADAL: 

CENTURIES OF DEDICATION TO VITICULTURE 

D.O. Bages is located in the centre of Catalonia, in the region of the same name. 

Vineyards registered in the DO equate to approximately 480 hectares (1.17% of total 

cultivated acreage). Some 90 winegrowers are registered under the appellation and 

14 wineries are affiliated to it. The number of bottles sold in 2020 was 427,006 (1.08% 

of the total number of Catalan DOs), worth 2,158,568 euros (1.19%). Obviously, the 

appellation does not rank in the upper echelons for volumes or values, but it has its 

own identity, and Abadal encapsulates all the unique ingredients of this wine region. 

The Abadal winery is located in the heart of Bages, in the village of Santa Maria 

A GENERAL VIEW OF VINYA ARBOSET 


SPAIN 

REGION 

d’Horta d’Avinyó, a town just a short distance from 

the city of Barcelona. It is located in a unique 

setting, which is captivating for its beauty and 

uniqueness. The winery is run by the Roqueta 

family, which has had connections with the world 

of wine for more than eight centuries. 

The family winery was born of a desire to produce 

wines that express the uniqueness of the landscape, 

through terraced vineyards surrounded by forests, 

unique traditional varieties (Picapoll and Mandó 

are the protagonists here), and clay soils littered 

with stones. Its commitment to the region offers 

differentiation and identity. The winery strives 

to consolidate the Bages winegrowing tradition 

through innovation and modernity. 

Bages region has a very long-standing tradition of 

growing wine. Abadal seeks to ensure that its wines 

are the fruit of the unique combination offered by 

the Bages region and that they express its most 

authentic and singular traits. 

The winery was founded in 1983 by Valentí Roqueta. 

His family’s winemaking activity dates back to the 

12th century (specifically to the year 1199). At its 

core is the Masía Roqueta, the family farmhouse, 

which houses remnants of more than eight centuries 

dedicated to winemaking, including presses 

and stone tanks. The cellar at Masía also houses 

some rancio wines in “bocoi” barrels distributed in 

different spaces or «cellers», and stand out for their 

diversity and uniqueness. They also form part of the 

family’s heritage. 

Since its foundation, the winery has led the way 

for research and recovery of the historic varieties 

of Bages. First with the Picapoll grape, launching 

Abadal Picapoll commercially, and subsequently 

with the recovery of the Mandó grape. Abadal 

Mandó offers a pure rendition of the Bages 

landscape and a tribute to the winery’s innovative 

spirit. Abadal Matís fuses the Mandó variety 

with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Traditional 

grape varieties such as Mandó and Picapoll are 

also considered to be cultivars of the future, due 

to their adaptation to climate change and their 

late ripening. 

An important legacy of Bages’ winemaking past 

is the use of dry stone constructions. These are a 

VALENTÍ ROQUETA FROM ABADAL WINERY 

A GENERAL VIEW OF THE VINEYARDS OF THE ABADAL WINERY IN BAGES 


31

SPAIN 

REGION 

unique heritage, both for their historical interest 

and their usefulness for winemaking. Proof of this 

are the vineyard huts (Abadal has more than forty of 

these on its estate, all of which have been restored); 

the vats; and the walls in the vineyards, all of which 

are made from stone. 

As part of the Paisatges 1883 project, promoted by 

Abadal in 2009, the winery resumed the ancient 

technique of producing wine in a dry stone vat - 

Viña Arboset - from ten historic grape varieties. 

This experimental wine was the culmination of 

experience gleaned over years of research and in 

Abadal Arboset 2017 was born. 

VIEWS OUT OVER THE LANDSCAPE IN THE D.O. TERRA ALTA 

THE ALTAVINS WINERY 

D.O. TERRA ALTA – ALTAVINS: 

THE SPIRIT OF 

THE MEDITERRANEAN 

This appellation is located in the South-West of 

Catalonia, bordering the region of Aragon to the 

West and almost touching the upper part of the 

autonomous community of Valencia. According 

to 2020 data, D.O. Terra Alta covers 6,077 hectares 

(14.83% of the total) and is home to a total of 61 

wineries and 1,248 registered winegrowers. Their 

combined turnover was 11,355,835 euros (6.25%) 

with sales of 4,938,495 bottles (12.45%). 

The region produces fine wines, designed to 

encapsulate their quintessential identity, their 

‘body and soul’ and, at the same time, the essence 

of the different grape varieties, particularly native 

grapes. Here the tradition of winegrowing dates 

back a thousand years. 

Altavins is a small winery within D.O. Terra Alta. 

Located in Batea, one of its primary defining 

features is the quality of its Garnacha Blanca. It is 

situated 350 metres above sea level and about 200 

km South-West of Barcelona. 

The winery’s philosophy hinges on identity, honesty 

and ‘Mediterraneidad’, a term that clearly defines 

the influence of the Mediterranean Sea on winegrowing 

within the area, despite the fact that its 

vineyards are slightly inland. Here, “we take care 

to preserve the integrity of the grapes at all times 

and to enhance them with minimum intervention. 


JOAN ARRUFÍ, 

OWNER AND FOUNDER 

OF ALTAVINS 


33

SPAIN 

REGION 

CÉSAR TORRIJOS AND BUIL I GINÉ, RESPECTIVELY THE WINEMAKER AND OWNER, 

IN THE WINERY’S BARREL ROOM 

Our aim is to achieve excellence in our wines and we 

focus on extracting the typical features of this area”. 

DO Terra Alta boasts a spectacular landscape typical 

of the inland Mediterranean regions. The soil 

contains a variety of textures, has good drainage, is 

rich in calcareous rocks and poor in organic matter. 

The vine-clad scenery, set between 350 and 550 

metres above sea level, is home to plains, the plateau 

and valleys. It is characterised by a dry Mediterranean 

climate, with low rainfall (between 350 and 

450 mm/year), abundant sunshine and two prevailing 

winds, the Cierzo, which comes from inland, 

and the Garbí or sea wind. 

The winery’s vocation for growing wine is 

expressed in specific techniques that show 

respect for the environment and produce grapes 

imbued with their own identity. D.O. Terra Alta is 

a privileged area for producing healthy, ripe fruit 

with great character. 

Low rainfall limits the incidence of fungal diseases 

and facilitates sustainable viticulture. The Cierzo, 

which continues to blow during the month of 

September, allows the grapes to ripen naturally 

on the vine. Also, diurnal shift during the ripening 

phase maximises aromatic expression in the 

various grape varieties grown. 

In addition to the wines, you can enjoy the unique 

setting, with views of the village of Batea and 

the vineyards. 

THE ENTRANCE TO THE BUIL & GINÉ FACILITIES 

D.O.Q. PRIORAT – BUIL & GINÉ: 

FARMERS ABOVE ALL 

Priorat D.O.Q. is one of the best known Spanish and 

Catalan Designations of Origin around the world 

thanks to the wines of Alvaro Palacios. The L’Ermita 

label that he makes in his Gratallops winery is 

highly coveted among great restaurants and lovers 

of this type of wine, the well-heeled ones that is, 

given the price tag. 

The vineyards for Priorat D.O.Q. are located in 

the middle of other Designations of Origin - D.O. 

Tarragona and D.O. Montsant, the former akin to 

a lake surrounded by land. Despite its diminutive 

footprint, Priorat D.O.Q. has a significant area 


SPAIN 

REGION 

under vine compared to, say, D.O. Bages. Virtually 

1,100 hectares (2.68% of the total) are planted, 

with 530 registered winegrowers and a total of 110 

wineries. Together, they accounted for 5.85% of 

total sales in Catalonia in 2020 (2,320,361 bottles) 

and their turnover represented 10.73%. The figure 

confirms that the price per litre in this area is 

higher than elsewhere. 

Both vineyards and wine date back aeons in Priorat. 

It is known that the Romans were already farming 

vines here to produce wine. But the real beginning 

of present-day Priorat with its licorella soils 

dates back to the 11th century, when it was under 

the protection of the Prior of the Cartoixa de Santa 

Maria de Scala Dei. Since then, Priorat has been 

synonymous with wine. 

At least 6 generations of the family that runs Buil & 

Giné have been part of this history. “We are above 

all farmers, and heirs to all this tradition and 

knowledge that have been passed down from generation 

to generation and enriched over the centuries 

by the constant arrival of different civilisations 

in this corner of the Mediterranean”. 

Located in Gratallops, in the heart of Priorat, Bull 

& Giné has been making wine since 1996, under 

the Priorat D.O.Q. The winery has an international 

vocation and a firm commitment to sharing both 

the lifestyle and legacy it treasures. 

The philosophy of the winery is summed up in a 

comment by Joan Giné, one of the family’s ancestors: 

“Wine is made in the vineyard. We have to 

cultivate it following tradition, respecting nature 

and without renouncing knowledge”. 

Rocky slate soils, scarce rainfall and extreme 

landforms are the defining features of the vineyards 

here, making vineyard work a heroic, almost 

impossible task. Sometimes the harshness of the 

work fails to achieve recognition. These are soils 

that, on several occasions, have proved impossible 

to farm due to the extreme inclines found in 

the area. 

The winery’s present-day CEO, Xavier Buil Giné, 

represents at least the sixth generation of winegrowers, 

although there were probably earlier generations 

too. It remains to be seen if this continuity 

will last into the future? 

XAVIER BUIL GINÉ, THE FOUNDER AND OWNER OF BUIL & GINÉ, 

REPRESENTS THE SIXTH GENERATION OF WINEMAKERS 

LÉGENDES 


35

SPAIN 

REGION 

D.O. MONTSANT – CELLER DE 

CAPÇANES: SIGHTS SET 

ON THE FUTURE 

A GENERAL VIEW OF THE CELLER DE CAPÇANES FACILITIES 

THE BARREL ROOM AT CELLER DE CAPÇANES 

D.O. Montsant is adjacent to D.O.Q. Priorat. It is 

located in the ‘southern hemisphere’ of Catalonia, 

in the province of Tarragona. It has 1,810 hectares of 

bearing vineyards (4.42%), with 593 registered winegrowers. 

Despite the high number of growers, the 

number of wineries within D.O. Montsant is relatively 

small (59) when compared to D.O.Q. Priorat, 

which with a slightly smaller area has almost twice 

as many bodegas. Turnover amounts to 13,654,821 

euros (7.52%) with bottled sales reaching 13.10% of 

the total in Catalonia (5,196,395 bottles). 

Capçanes is a small village tucked away in the 

Catalan hills of Tarragona, some 150 km South- 

West of Barcelona, where many high quality 

wines are produced and which has a long history 

of winemaking. 

The roots of viticulture in Montsant go back to the 

13th century. Before phylloxera, at the beginning of 

the 19th century, the valleys were densely planted. 

After the devastation caused by the insect, many 

farmers were drawn to the industrialisation of 

Spain, and left the countryside to move to the big 

cities. Only about 1/5 of the original vineyards were 

replanted, predominantly with Garnacha. Some of 

these vineyards, which are approaching 100 years 

old, still exist - although their yields are low. 

To compete in the wine market, a change was 

needed, and in 1933 five families from the village 

collaborated to form a co-operative. The foundation 

of this ‘joint-venture’ meant a change in the 

commercial prospects of Capçanes, and suddenly 

they were able to offer large volumes at competitive 

prices for bulk sales. The first step had been 

taken, and over 50 years a modest but stable 

business was built up. 

Slowly but surely, more families joined the 

company. The co-operative processed most of the 

village’s production and the wine was sold in bulk 

until 1980. 

In 1995 the impetus for change came when the 

Jewish community of Barcelona asked Capçanes 

if they could produce kosher wine using the very 


ANNA ROVIRA, 

THE RENOWNED 

WINEMAKER AT 

CELLER DE CAPÇANES 


37

SPAIN 

REGION 

BOTTLES REST INSIDE THE MONT RUBÍ CELLAR 

INSIDE MONT RUBÍ WINERY 

meticulous Lo Mevushal method. The success of 

the wine, considered to be the best kosher wine 

in the world and one of the best wines in Spain, 

prompted importers from around the world to 

take a closer look at the winery. Gradually, a unique 

range of high-end individual wines was developed. 

Capçanes became the pioneer and first known 

«ambassador» of DO Montsant. Since then, it has 

been one of the main producers and benchmarks 

for quality in Montsant. 

Capçanes’ vineyards are located on steep slopes 

and terraces protected by the Llaberia mountain 

range. The winery works mainly with two autochthonous 

varieties: Garnacha Negra and Cariñena. 

The vineyards are low-cropping and mostly home 

to bush vines. Some of them are up to 110 years old, 

and planted on stony mineral soils of slate, limestone 

and clay, which develop a very concentrated 

fruit intensity and a unique flavour profile. 

The character of Celler de Capçanes wines is defined 

by the variety of soils in the village. The vineyards 

are located on a wide range of soils and slopes that 

give complexity and depth to the wines. 

The winemaker at Celler de Capçanes, Anna Rovira, 

who has previously been interviewed by Gilbert & 

Gaillard, was named the best female winemaker of 

2021 by Genussmagazin magazine. Obviously the 

winery is very proud of the achievement, which 

speaks volumes about the standard of the wines 

made here. 

D.O. PENEDÉS – MONT RUBÍ: 

RESPECTING THE ENVIRONMENT 

Of all the appellations referred to so far, D.O. 

Penedés is the only one that has direct contact 

with the Mediterranean Sea. The nerve centre of 

this wine region is Vilafranca del Penedés, a town 

located about 55 km from the city of Barcelona. 

The appellation is the largest in terms of sales 

volumes, number of winegrowers, bearing hectares, 

etc. Cornering 53.48% of revenue (97,100,505 euros) 

it also has the highest number of bottle sales, totalling 

16,549,004 (41.72%). This huge difference with 

respect to the other appellations can also be seen in 


SPAIN 

REGION 

the number of farmed vineyards (15,993ha - 39.02%), registered winegrowers (2,134) 

and registered wineries (191). 

The Mont Rubí winery is located in the Avellà Valley, in the village that bears the same 

name as the valley, some 65 km from Barcelona. In this idyllic area, the winery boasts 

100 hectares of land, of which 40 are vineyards, divided into 35 plots surrounded by 

forests of Mediterranean pine, oaks, olive trees and oak trees. 

As the winery says, “work both in the vineyard and the winery follows the guidelines 

set for organic farming as a sign of respect for the environment. This also allows us 

to achieve the highest quality in each of the 15 wines”. 

The varieties used to make the white wines are Xarel-lo, Macabeu and Parellada, 

and the red and rosé wines are made from Garnacha, Cariñena and Sumoll, the 

latter a native variety that disappeared 60 years ago and was recovered in 2000 with 

MontRubí as a pioneer. 

Currently, the winery is experimenting with other native varieties such as Subirat 

Parent and Malvasía de Sitges. It uses handmade amphorae and cement eggs as 

well as oak barrels for ageing its wines, which are made with minimal intervention. 

MontRubí wines are organic and vegan. 

THE VINES AT MONT RUBÍ WINERY 


39

ITALIAN WINE IN THE 

PRESENT AND FUTURE AS 

SEEN BY EIGHT WOMEN 

BY FRANCESCO SAVERIO 

PHOTOGRAPHS: 


©RENATO VETTORATO 

The world of Italian wine is increasingly 'female'. In fact, one in four farms is 

now run by a woman, as are 30% of wineries. Enrolments at viticulture and 

oenology faculties are also increasing, as is the number of female winemakers 

across the country. We have selected eight of them to illustrate the fundamental 

roles played by women in the Italian wine industry. 

AFTER A DECADE FOCUSING ON DOLCETTO, ANNA MARIA ABBONA PLANTED 

THE FIRST NEBBIOLO, BARBERA, RIESLING AND NASCETTA VINES 


ITALY 

WINE WOMEN PORTRAITS 

ANNA MARIA ABBONA, HER HUSBAND FRANCO SCHELLINO AND THEIR YOUNG SONS LORENZO AND FEDERICO 

ANNA MARIA ABBONA - 

TENACITY AND FARSIGHTEDNESS IN PIEDMONT 

A 

nna Maria Abbona started by producing a handful of bottles of Dolcetto di 

Dogliani in 1989 when she was only 24 years old to save her grandfather's 

vineyards. Later came plantings of Nebbiolo, Barbera, Riesling and Nascetta. 

Today, Anna Maria, who runs the company with her husband and two children, 

shares her views on the future of Italian wine. “I foresee a strong focus on biodiversity 

and sustainability. That's why I believe so much in the potential of our land, 

where woods, hazelnut groves and vineyards alternate. However, environmental 

sustainability also means economic sustainability and further work is needed to 

increase the profitability of these areas while maintaining their balance. Smallscale 

production must be protected even more. 

Many young people want to be winegrowers, but it is difficult to guarantee an 

income that justifies the many sacrifices and the amount of effort this profession 

requires. Small wineries producing lesser-known wines have to deal with low 

margins, high climatic risks and competition from large companies. Sometimes 

vocation and determination are not enough. There is a need for new rules and laws 

to protect small businesses". 


41

ITALY 


CAMILLA LUNELLI – STUDY, 

VOLUNTARY WORK AND 

THE FAMILY BUSINESS 

CAMILLA LUNELLI, DIRECTOR OF COMMUNICATIONS AND EXTERNAL RELATIONS 

FOR FERRARI TRENTO AND THE LUNELLI GROUP COMPANIES 

THE LUNELLI FAMILY’S CUTTING-EDGE FERRARI WINERY, A BENCHMARK FOR SPARKLING 

WINE PRODUCTION IN TRENTO DOC AND ITALY 

A Bocconi University graduate with first-class 

honours, Camilla Lunelli gained professional experience 

around the world before deciding to pursue 

voluntary work, spending three years in Africa. 

In 2004 she returned to Italy to continue the family 

business at Ferrari Trento and Tenute Lunelli 

alongside her cousins Matteo and Marcello and 

her brother Alessandro. 

Regarding her views on the future of Italian wine, 

she says, “environmental sustainability is fundamental, 

and Ferrari has been leading the way with 

organic and Biodiversity Friendly certification of 

its vineyards, in addition to spreading the message 

of sustainability through the strapline ‘The Ferrari 

Vineyard - healthy and sustainable mountain viticulture’. 

At the same time, there is a growing need to move 

vineyards to higher altitudes due to climate change. 

International markets will also be increasingly 

important for Ferrari Trento, which is a leader 

in Italy but not as well-known abroad. We want 

to highlight the quality of Trento DOC sparkling 

wines on the world stage and the response has 

been encouraging! 

The future also involves e-commerce and new 

opportunities for a more direct relationship with 

the consumer through social media and other 

customer relationship management tools. 

Digitalisation is also becoming essential in the 

countryside and in the winery. For example, we 

use artificial intelligence to optimise irrigation, 

gather agronomic information and select grapes. 

Finally, we need to encourage people to drink 

responsibly, prioritising quality over quantity. 

MARINA CVETIC AND MIRIAM 

LEE MASCIARELLI – LEADING THE 

GREEN REVOLUTION 

Marina Cvetic, Gianni Masciarelli's wife, and their 

eldest daughter Miriam Lee Masciarelli are now at 


ITALY 


the helm of the well-known Abruzzo-based Masciarelli 

company. 

Together they have increased wine production, 

expanded markets, created a food line, made 

Castello di Semivicoli a wine tourist destination 

and expanded distribution of Gianni's Selection. 

Women make up 54% of the company's top management. 

Marina and Miriam recount how they see 

the future: “The future of winemaking will be 

increasingly competitive and there will be new 

challenges to face, including climate change, 

which we will have to adapt to. However, the 

biggest challenge for wineries is the energy transition, 

and water management will be the most 

important factor over the next few years. 

Wines will also change because habits will change. 

Future generations are asking us to be greener. 

There will be a need for innovative agronomic 

practices, improvements and efficiency. Our 

company is committed to continually improving 

sustainability and working with the upmost 

respect for the environment. 

"Less is more” should be the mantra in agriculture 

and beyond. By reducing waste, we achieve a new 

balance and make our time more valuable." 

MOTHER AND DAUGHTER MARINA CVETIC AND MIRIAM LEE MASCIARELLI CURRENTLY 

HEAD UP THE FAMILY BUSINESS IN ABRUZZO 

THE BEAUTIFUL CASTELLO DI SEMIVICOLI, A HUB OF WINE TOURISM AND HOSPITALITY 

FOR MARINA CVETIC AND MIRIAM LEE MASCIARELLI’S FAMILY BUSINESS 

SABRINA TEDESCHI – VIEWING 

OENOLOGY AS CONTINUOUS 

RESEARCH 

Sabrina Tedeschi was bitten by the wine bug at an 

early age and has always followed the path of wine. 

After graduating in food technology in Milan, she 

did an internship at the Burgundy University of 

Oenology, and then became an oenology teacher 

at the Institute of San Michele All'Adige. 

Today, alongside her brother Riccardo and sister 

Antonietta, she runs the F.lli Tedeschi estate 

in Valpolicella, while continuing to carry out 

research in order to achieve complete sustainability 

in agronomic management and the winemaking 

chain. 

"Our future is strongly pink, as the next generation 

of our family is made up of five girls and 


43

SABRINA TEDESCHI, 

WHO HEADS UP THE 

F.LLI TEDESCHI WINERY 

IN VALPOLICELLA 

BORDEAUX 

TRAVEL 


ITALY 


two boys. We hope that they will inherit the same 

passion that we inherited from our parents. 

Working without passion is not possible, especially 

in our sector where sacrifice is the order of 

the day. 

Regional identity will become increasingly important 

as a bottle of wine encapsulates the history, 

traditions, soul and passion of the producer, as 

well as their knowledge and know-how. In a globalised 

world, we hope that wine will also maintain 

the values of craftsmanship and family. Clearly, we 

will have to continue to innovate, without losing 

sight of tradition”. 

MAELI CAN COUNT ON HIGHLY SUITABLE AND VARIED VINEYARD SITES IN THE EUGANEAN 

HILLS PARK, IN THE HEART OF VENETO 

ELISA DILAVANZO, AT THE HELM OF THE MAELI VINEYARD IN THE EUGANEI HILLS 

ELISA DILAVANZO – A DREAM 

CALLED MOSCATO GIALLO 

Elisa's passion for wine began as a sommelier, 

so much so that she won a national competition, 

'Charme Sommelier'. Her story at Maeli, on the 

other hand, began in 2010, as a saleswoman. Here, 

she fell in love with the Moscato Giallo grape, 

which she dreamed of vinifying in five different 

ways. Initially, it seemed to be a dream that only 

she believed in. Then she met Gianluca Bisol who 

became her partner for the purchase of Maeli. 

Elisa thus achieved her dream of vinting Moscato 

Giallo in five different ways: sweet sparkling wine, 

still dry wine, sparkling wine bottled with its own 

yeasts and re-fermented in the bottle as per the 

ancestral method, classic method brut nature and 

finally passito dessert wine. 

Today Maeli is run by five women with a strong 

focus on the environment and regional identity. 

Elisa shares her views on the future of wine: 

“Wine has changed a lot in the last twenty years. 

Climate and environmental factors have a significant 

impact on wine growing, but the most 

important changes are dictated by the tastes and 

trends of the young Millennials and Generation 

Z. The dualism between industrial production 

and artisanal winemakers who cork a few thousand 

bottles stored with utmost care will always 

be relevant. Conventional, organic, biodynamic, 

vegan, sea-aged, alcohol-free and more – ‘regular 


45

ITALY 


GIULIA (MARKETING AND COMMUNICATIONS MANAGER) AND CAMILLA PERINI 

(MANAGEMENT CONTROL) AT CANTINE 4 VALLI 

wine’ will be increasingly rare. And yet that very 

wine, far from the spotlight of the most coveted 

areas on the international wine scene, the result 

of respectful practices, will be the most precious of 

all time, because it will be a pure expression of the 

land and the care of those who have looked after it 

from the vineyard to the bottle”. 

GIULIA & CAMILLA PERINI – 

THE PRESENT AND FUTURE 

OF CANTINE 4 VALLI 

FOR GENERATIONS, THE FERRARI & PARINI FAMILIES HAVE EXPRESSED A LOVE FOR THE 

LAND AND A PASSION FOR WINE 

Giulia has wine in her genetic make-up. After 

completing her studies, she immediately started 

work in marketing, becoming the company's 

Marketing and Communications Manager in just 

7 years. Today, she works with a team of 4 people 

developing ambitious and stimulating projects. 

Camilla started out at Cantine 4 Valli in the 

analysis laboratory of the production department, 

before becoming Quality Control and IFS and BRC 

Certification Manager and, later, working in the 

logistics department. She is currently in charge of 

management control. 

Here are their opinions about the future: 

Giulia: “The wine sector has a very high potential 

and always manages to find new ways to grow. 

Wine consumers are increasingly young, attentive 

and knowledgeable, and this aspect is very stimulating 

for us as producers. Online wine shops have 

grown and will be increasingly important, not only 

in terms of sales but also as a source of information”. 

Camilla: “Wine is a product of pleasure, it has 

existed since ancient times and will continue to 

be a staple on the tables of all countries, including 

emerging ones, over the next 20 years. It will still 

be the "star" of every important event, with an 

increasingly careful focus on quality. There will 

be a greater search for regionality and therefore 

more attention paid to niche production. Wines 

will mostly be organic because agriculture will be 

entirely organic, and the most suitable areas will 

probably also change due to climate change”. 


FRANCESCA MORETTI, 

WINEMAKER AND 

PRESIDENT OF THE TERRA 

MORETTI VINO GROUP 

THE IMPRESSIVE BARREL CELLAR 

AT CANTINA BELLAVISTA 

BELONGING TO THE MORETTI 

FAMILY IN FRANCIACORTA 

FRANCESCA MORETTI – FAIRER AGRICULTURE 

AND WINEMAKING 

Francesca became passionate about wine as a teenager, after a holiday spent visiting 

French chateaux with her father. Soon afterwards, she decided to study viticulture 

and oenology at the University of Milan. Then came her time at the family 

winery, where she put to use what she had learned. 

She subsequently became CEO of the entire wine sector at Moretti Holding for five 

years. A role that shaped her vision. Her passion for the winery and the vineyard, 

however, took her back to the vineyard and the cellar. “I believe that the world 

of wine will be increasingly linked to environmental protection, and therefore to 

the growth of agriculture which cares for and respects the land. This trend has 

tripled in recent years and is destined to grow further, according to forecasts by the 

Directorate General for Agriculture, with increased demand for wines with lower 

alcohol content and sparkling wines. Priority will be given to climate change, which 

modifies the characteristics of wines and which, even in typical areas, influences 

acidity and aromatic profile. So winemaking methods will also have to adapt to the 

different properties of the grapes. The search for new markets will be important: 

exports will be a fundamental growth asset while new digital technologies will help 

support the transition to more ecological production. I believe we can’t wait any 

longer! The health of our planet is the priority and as protagonists in the world of 

wine, we must be the standard-bearers for fairer agriculture and winemaking”. 


47

DESIGNED AND CREATED 

BY GIORGIO AND MARIA 

GRAZIA LUNGAROTTI, THE 

MUVIT MUSEO DEL VINO DI 

TORGIANO WAS OPENED TO 

THE PUBLIC IN 1974 

CANTINA LUNGAROTTI 

PRODUCES OUTSTANDING 

UMBRIAN WINES, INCLUDING 

THE SHOWSTOPPING RUBESCO 

VIGNA MONTICCHIO 

CHIARA LUNGAROTTI – HISTORIC UMBRIAN WINE 

TURNS FEMALE 

Since the death of Giorgio Lungarotti, the company has been in the hands of the 

female members of the family: Chiara as Managing Director and Teresa as Head 

of Marketing and Communications. Chiara was only 27 when she took over at 

the helm and, despite the weight of responsibility, she has successfully brought 

innovation to the vineyard and cellar. 

She was supported by Maria Grazia Marchetti Lungarotti, who pioneered Italian 

wine tourism and created the Torgiano Wine Museum and the Olive and Oil 

Museum. Today, at the age of 95, she runs the Lungarotti Onlus Foundation, 

supported by her daughter Teresa and granddaughter Gemma. 

Chiara shares her thoughts on the future of Italian wine: “In the coming years, 

viticulture will be even more environmentally friendly. Lungarotti has been 

working towards sustainability for over 30 years, because caring for the land 

ultimately impacts the final product. Our commitment in this area will continue 

because we are convinced that complete sustainability is a must, especially in 

this sector. 


ITALY 


Our goal is to educate the consumer to drink and eat well. It will therefore be 

essential that the entire industry correctly uses the Recovery Plan funds for 

increasingly environmentally friendly production and greater energy efficiency, 

as a driving force for the national economy. The wine world will only be able to 

do this if it is supported and not hindered by bureaucracy. 

The world of Italian wine is finally changing, and the growing presence of women 

is already giving wineries very interesting prospects from both a winemaking 

and communications perspective. Women will also play an important role in 

wine tourism, where 'women of wine' are at the heart of hospitality and regional 

promotion”. 

CHIARA LUNGAROTTI, MANAGING DIRECTOR OF THE LUNGAROTTI 

FAMILY BUSINESS, IN UMBRIA 


49

SOIL-SEARCHING 

FOR FINE PINOTAGE 

Like all inspiring wine countries globally, indigenous grape varieties are part of 

a quintessential blend of things to see, taste and experience. For South Africans, 

Table Mountain is their beacon of ancient soils, its "tablecloth" of cloud the 

introduction to the Cape's whimsical weather. And while the smell of Boerewors 

and Karoo lamb chops on a traditional open fire "braai" sets the scene for local 

fare, it is not fulfilled until Pinotage anoints the occasion. 

BY SAMARIE SMITH DIPWSET 

PHOTOGRAPHS: 


50 SPRING 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 

BUSH VINES ARE NURTURED AT KANONKOP, IMPARTING 

MESMERISING QUALITIES TO THEIR TOP PINOTAGE

SOUTH AFRICA 

GRAPE VARIETIES 

THE TEAM AT KANONKOP, HEADED UP BY CELLARMASTER ABRIE BEESLAAR. THE LATEST TECHNOLOGY SITS COMFORTABLY 

ALONGSIDE TRADITIONAL WINEMAKING TECHNIQUES AT THE WINERY 

Pinotage illustrates South Africa's prospering wine culture, an indigenous 

and enigmatic red grape variety proven to excel on the cool slopes of the 

Constantia Valley, into the heart of Stellenbosch and further afield, without 

forfeiting its seductive personality. 

Tenacity remains the bedrock of the South African wine industry, and visionary 

individuals sculpted a foundation for Pinotage. By utilizing the best sites, 

its dynamic progression allowed a host of styles to surface from numerous soil 

types comprising sand to heavier clay, rocks, sandstone, weathered shale, and 

decomposed granite. Adaptable as bush vines or trellised vines, dryland farming 

also enabled old vines to dive into deep soils and sustain healthy vines for this 

emblematic grape variety to flourish. 

Ultimately, a delicate balance of freshness, latent power and depth defines an 

excellent Pinotage, where the quality of the fruit guides a discerning introduction 

of oak, proclaiming the complexity to age gracefully without sacrificing its 

texture, structure, fruit purity and lucid colour. 

Yet, unlike other cultivars, timing is its unforgiving nemesis. A small picking 

window leaves little room for error, with a rapid fermentation of three to five 


51

SOUTH AFRICA 


GRAPE PICKERS TAKE A BREAK DURING HARVESTING 

CELLARMASTER ABRIE BEESLAAR FROM KANONKOP 

days demanding scrupulous attention in the cellar. 

The same goes for sensible extraction techniques, 

the time it needs to age and the optimal drinking 

time that will awake the finer indelible qualities. 

Pinotage stalwart and Kanonkop cellarmaster 

Abrie Beeslaar confesses that it takes longer to 

master Pinotage than any other varietal. 

"It is a variety with a thick skin like Cabernet 

Sauvignon, which has a ripening window of 

45-50 days. However, Pinotage only needs 20-25 

days between veraison to when it's ripe. Planning 

is vital." 

As the gatekeeper of classicism, the 2015 vintage 

of their Estate Pinotage received 95 points in the 

Gilbert & Gaillard International Challenge, a wine 

that can effortlessly age another 30-40 years. 

"People should be less concerned about what 

constitutes a typical Pinotage and concentrate 

on what substantiates quality. For me, structure, 

texture, and persistence come first. The character 

of Pinotage will follow suit, but people searching 

for quality don't always have a reference for 

Pinotage." 

Adamant to showcase the versatility of Pinotage, 

Abrie utilized a block outside Kanonkop in 2005 

under his Beeslaar brand, illustrating how soil 

drives style despite the vineyards being only three 

kilometres apart. 

Made from bush vines growing on shale, the 

Beeslaar Pinotage 2019 (93 points) portrays Pinotage's 

perfumed side while Kanonkop's bush vines 

thrive on granite synonymous with intense, dark 

fruit and a firm tannin density. 

"Diversity needs to be valued, but winemakers 

need to let the soil guide them in stylistic 

decisions." 

A fierce commitment to Pinotage awarded 

another Stellenbosch Estate's wine, the Neethlingshof 

Owl Post Pinotage 2020, with 92 points. 

"The big shift came about when winemakers 

started to allow the wine to be expressive of 

its different terroirs," explains Neethlingshof 

winemaker De Wet Viljoen. "Its future is bright, 


SOUTH AFRICA 


constantly performing and outperforming wines 

from around the globe." 

The late Prof Eben Archer triggered Viljoen's 

passion for Pinotage. 

"He told us to respect the vine, work sustainably 

and treat it as if it was one of your children. I 

have adopted that motto to produce the best 

possible wine." 

Clearly, Pinotage possesses the uncanny ability 

to express site with new generation winemakers 

bringing a keen understanding of the aesthetics 

of fine wine as demonstrated by the trusty 

Simonsberg to new frontiers like Walker Bay, 

Skurfberg and Piekenierskloof. 

"It is as if the "ball and chain" association with 

the old South African wine industry has finally 

been struck off," says Anthony Hamilton-Russell 

from Hamilton-Russell Vineyards in the Hemelen-Aarde 

Valley. 

"We haven't had the luxury of centuries of French 

flair legitimizing the grape for us. However, our 

younger, more confident, new generation of 

winemakers are not only up to this but relish 

the challenge. Pinotage thrives under this new 

aesthetic regime, which accounts significantly 

for the renaissance of the variety." 

Beyers Truter, a trailblazer for Pinotage, reminisces 

about the first meeting in 1995 when the South 

African Pinotage Association was established. 

"Since then, Pinotage has taken phenomenal 

leaps in quality and viticulture that brought the 

grape in sync with world trends," says Truter. 

He recalls how limited experience with Pinotage 

in the '80s led to misconstrued interpretations 

of the cultivar. 

"Unsure about the best way to guide this juvenile 

variety into what it wants to be, an organic 

compound known as isoamyl acetate imparted 

unwanted aromas at lower fermentation temperatures 

that were not an innate character of the 

grape itself. But our collective tenacity has paid 

off, and vital knowledge that was passed on has 

elevated Pinotage to a whole new level." 

DE WET VILJOEN, CELLARMASTER AT NEETHLINGSHOF 

BEYERS TRUTER AND HIS SON, ANRI TRUTER, WHO TOOK UP THE REINS FROM HIS FATHER 

AT THEIR FAMILY ESTATE BEYERSKLOOF 


53

SOUTH AFRICA 


BEYERS TRUTER WITH HIS SON ANRI WHO TOOK OVER FROM HIS FATHER 

AT BEYERSKLOOF ESTATE 

Truter's Pinotage pilgrimage included winning 

the trophy for Best Winemaker in the World at 

the International Wine and Spirits Competition 

in 1991 with the Kanonkop Pinotage 1989 to 

recently handing the baton to his son Anri, continuing 

their Pinotage victory at their family estate 

Beyerskloof. The Beyerskloof Diesel 2019 scored 

94 points, applauded by the panel for its purity 

and complexity. 

"I have never seen regionality expressed in so 

many flavours than any other cultivar. Pinotage 

is our value proposition, and the world's perception 

is very positive." 

With Pinotage celebrating its centenary in 2025, 

South Africa launched its first Pinotage classification 

under the auspices of Grand Pinotage in 2020. 

Madame May-Eliane de Lencquesaing, the owner 

of Glenelly and former owner of Château Pichon 

Longueville Lalande in Bordeaux, corroborates 

that Grand Pinotage champions South Africa as 

the great wine-producing country that it is. 

"Grand Pinotage is a collection that has set a new 

precedent for Pinotage. Its heroic insistence on 

survival makes its status as South Africa's heritage 

grape seem not fortuitous but fated." 

THE HISTORY OF A CHARISMATIC 

CULTIVAR 

BEYERS TRUTER, HIS SON ANRI, HIS DAUGHTER CORNÈ AND HER HUSBAND BUDDY HENDRIKS 

INTRODUCE VISITORS TO PINOTAGE AT THEIR FAMILY ESTATE, BEYERSKLOOF 

Pinotage is a tale of happenstance, heralded 

by Stellenbosch University Professor Abraham 

Izak Perold in 1925, who was vigilant about 

diversifying the Cape's viticultural offering and 

crossed Pinot Noir and Cinsault (locally referred 

to as Hermitage – hence the name Pinotage). 

Then, by mere serendipity in 1935, university 

lecturer Dr. Charlie Niehaus cycled past Perold's 

prior Welgevallen residence. Noticing the overgrown 

garden, aware of the crossings Perold had 

planted there, he rescued four Pinotage seedlings 

from imminent shovels. 

Six years later, wine lecturer CT de Waal made 


SOUTH AFRICA 


BEYERS TRUTER FROM BEYERSKLOOF WINE ESTATE 

the first Pinotage in 1941 at Elsenberg. Knowing his fellow Pinotage pioneers in 

the vineyards and on the rugby field, De Waal (on his family farm Uiterwyk), PK 

Morkel (on Bellevue) and Paul Sauer (on Kanonkop) planted the country's first 

commercial Pinotage. 

Other red cultivars stepped aside at the annual Young Wine Show (then known 

as the Cape Wine Show), awarding current vintage unbottled wines. Bellevue's 

Pinotage won the General Smuts Trophy for the best wine overall in 1959, and 

the Kanonkop Pinotage took the trophy home in 1961. As they were contracted 

to do in those days, this 1959 Pinotage was sold to Stellenbosch Farmers' Winery 

(now Distell) and sold as Lanzerac Pinotage 1959. 

Lanzerac winemaker Wynand Lategan adds that Pinotage producers are now 

confident about developing their own style and pushing the envelope. "The magic 

is to get the balance right and refine your style." 

Dirkie Morkel, the viticulturist at Bellevue, kept the original newspaper clippings 

when his uncle PK Morkel (a Springbok rugby player) won the legendary 

trophy with his Pinotage. Since then, with winemaker Wilhelm Kritzinger, the 

estate never became complacent, with three of their Pinotages faring brilliantly 

in Gilbert & Gaillard's assessment. Leading the pack, the Bellevue Reserve Pinotage 

2017 received 93 points for its beguiling complexity and purity of fruit. 


55

SOUTH AFRICA 


A PINNACLE ERA FOR PINOTAGE 

GERHARD SWART IS THE HEAD WINEMAKER 

AT FLAGSTONE WINERY 

With the advancement in viticulture, technology, 

and knowledge, it was inevitable that Pinotage, 

as part of South Africa's cultural heritage, 

would soar. 

Where two oceans collide at the tip of Africa, 

a treacherous coastline will naturally equate 

to a rocky start but not prevent such a characterful 

indigenous grape variety from welling 

up as a forerunner of individuality and quality. 

The Old and the New World were merged from 

two distinctly different grape varieties. Its 

duality gave birth to exemplary fruit expression, 

elegantly poised on sculpted acidity with the 

judicious use of oak adding spice and definition. 

Yet today, it confidently stands its ground 

without necessary reference to its ancestry, apart 

from providing context to those new to Pinotage. 

Consistent quality has steered it in a proper 

direction with a tailwind of positive reviews 

signalling smooth sailing for many more centuries 

to come. 

DURBANVILLE HILLS WINEMAKING TEAM. LEFT TO RIGHT: 

KOBUS GERBER, WILHELM COETZEE, MARTIN MOORE, JENNA HIGGINS 

AN ODE TO REGIONALITY 

Quality through healthy vineyards remains the 

mantra of Flagstone Winery, harnessing altitude 

and diurnal temperature ranges for optimum 

colour, fruit, and physiological ripeness. 

Head winemaker Gerhard Swart says: "Working 

with Pinotage from warmer and cooler regions 

taught me how multifaceted this grape is. Regionality 

always triumphs, allowing me the freedom 

to use a combination of French, Hungarian and 

American oak for our respective styles. 

Groot Constantia is one of the few producers of 

Pinotage in a cooler wine-growing region where 

wines show remarkable restraint in these ripening 

conditions. According to its cellarmaster, 

Boela Gerber, the varietal produces intense and 


SOUTH AFRICA 


forward fruit wines, as evident in tasting their 

Groot Constantia Pinotage 2019 (94 points). 

Durbanville Hills cellarmaster Martin Moore 

concurs that the proximity to the ocean enables 

Pinotage to retain its elegance. 

"Many lessons were learned by being sagaciously 

decisive about open canopies and planting directions 

to invite sunlight throughout a block. 

I have learned to regularly taste for ripeness and 

not fall back on analysis when working with cool 

climate Pinotage." 

Their Collectors Reserve Range aptly connects 

consumers to the Cape Town culture, boasting 

prominent landmarks on the labels, The Promenade 

Pinotage 2019 (92 points) featured with the 

much-loved seafront promenade. 

THE DIEMERSFONTEIN TEAM: LAUREN HULSMAN (WINEMAKER), HANNELIZE LOUW (SALES AND 

MARKETING MANAGER), DENISE STUBBS (DIRECTOR), FRANCOIS ROODE (CELLARMASTER) 

CELLARMASTER DONOVAN ACKERMANN JOINED 

RICKETY BRIDGE IN 2018. HE BELIEVES PINOTAGE KEEPS 

HIM ON HIS TOES AND THAT HE NEVER STOPS LEARNING 

THE DIVERSITY OF STYLES 

Stylistically, Pinotage has elicited strikingly different 

opinions and preferences, which concluded 

that different styles need to be embraced. At the 

same time, fine Pinotage will always be prudent 

of terroir and not chasing trends. 

Shaun Page, marketing manager at Rickety 

Bridge, says a preference for lighter style red 

wines was another point of entry for Pinotage 

into the market. "And explaining the parentage 

of Pinotage remains a good point of departure 

for us," adds Donovan Ackermann, winemaker 

at Rickety Bridge. "Consumers relate better 

to Pinotage if you explain that they can expect 

the tannin of Pinot noir and the bountiful fruit 

of Cinsault." 

Even the controversial "coffee" Pinotage has 

paid its dues. Hate it or love it, says Rudiger 

Gretschel, technical director of Vinimark, who 

believes Bertus Fourie (who pioneered this style 

at Diemersfontein in Wellington) created a style 

that opened an arena for Pinotage to be recognised. 

Adding another colour to the Rainbow 

Nation, this much-debated style continues to 


57

SOUTH AFRICA 


RIAAN MÖLLER, HEAD WINEMAKER AT LIEVLAND VINEYARDS, IS A PINOTAGE DEVOTEE WHO 

BELIEVES THAT PINOTAGE IS A WORLD CONTENDER IN TERMS OF QUALITY AND STYLE 

percolate into previously non-wine drinking SA 

households, with a solid following in the United 

Kingdom and Northern America. 

Gretschel also pursued his own project in the 

Piekenierskloof with his Sangiro Pinotage. 

"Expect a harsh, unirrigated yet holistically 

dreamy environment where Pinotage vines reap 

the benefits of sandstone soils, cool breezes and 

altitude (600m above sea level), resulting in a 

lighter, linear style with high natural acidity." 

Francois Roode joined Diemersfontein as winemaker 

18 years ago and has since seen many faces 

of a varietal "that can give Cabernet Sauvignon 

a run for its money. Now we also create serious 

Pinotage. Changing seasons required a paradigm 

shift with stylistic adjustments, leading to better 

canopy and water management and planting to 

heat-resistant rootstock." 

Riaan Möller, winemaker at Lievland and Man 

Family Wines, remains in awe of Pinotage's 

versatility." The Lievland Pinotage 2020 (91 points) 

was created from two blocks. The low-lying 

Agter-Paarl block has its heart anchored in 

shale, producing aromatic aromas. The Paardeberg 

vineyard grows on granite which adds grip 

and tannin. If you stay involved throughout the 

process, you will experience excellence.” 

THE FUTURE OF PINOTAGE 

HARVESTING AT MAN FAMILY WINES 

L'Avenir means future, which is also the message 

this estate wants to bring across with Pinotage. 

Its Advini chapter started when the winemaker 

Dirk Coetzee convinced the new French owners 

that its quality stretches beyond the limited 

vision of "just another hybrid." 

Its owners subsequently bought into a property 

and a cultivar they knew very little about, tells 

Edo Heyns, Strategic Development and Marketing 

Director at Advini South Africa. 

"It intrigued them to deal with a quality cultivar 

that originated outside of France." 


SOUTH AFRICA 


A fundamental mind shift is palpable in the way consumers react to Pinotage 

when presented in international tastings as a fine wine, Heyns continues, 

evoking excitement as something authentically South African with the ability 

to masterly express terroir. 

"Until now, little emphasis was put on climate and soil types, and this contributes 

to Pinotage's intrinsic qualities to stand beside world-class red wines, channelling 

the conversation to the world's best sommeliers and opinion makers." 

When Pinotage enters the conversation, quality is unequivocal. Its merit persists 

in an enormous spectrum of styles keeping the world engaged. Be it an elegant 

Provence-inspired style, a whimsical and fruity wine like Beaujolais, echoing 

Chateauneuf-du-Pape in a blend with Mediterranean varieties or rubbing shoulders 

with the power of St. Joseph, Pinotage has risen as a raconteur and a dignitary 

example of fine wine on the world's wine podium. 

MAN FAMILY WINE FOUNDERS 


59

ALSACE AND 

ITS FIRST-RATE 

CRÉMANTS 

BY JEAN-PAUL BURIAS 

PHOTOGRAPHS: 


Sparkling wines labelled as Crémant account for 25% of Alsace wine production. 

After an outstanding year for sales in 2019 came the global pandemic in 

2020, but growth has now resumed and sales may well break new records. 

Encouragingly, the popularity of Crémant d’Alsace is spreading to more and 

more countries worldwide. 

HUNAWIHR CO-OPERATIVE WINERY VINEYARDS 


ALSACE 

REGION 

CHÂTEAU DU HAUT-KOENIGSBOURG WHICH OVERLOOKS 160 HECTARES OF VINEYARDS 

Crémant d’Alsace is emerging from the pandemic in style. Whilst the economic 

situation remains challenging, compounded by Covid-19, the sparkling wine 

appellation is doing more than just weathering the storm. Alsace is renowned 

globally for its fine white wines made from Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Pinot blanc 

and gris, Muscat and Sylvaner, but it has also successfully addressed a groundswell 

of interest in quality sparkling wines. The region’s history of sparkling wine 

production actually dates back to the end of the 19 th century, when Alsace winegrowers 

produced sparkling wines using the traditional method. The technique, 

which was definitely not widespread during the first half of the 20th century, 

remained a niche until appellation status was granted in 1976. Legal recognition 

inspired a fresh start, providing Alsace wineries with appropriate guidelines for 

producing sparkling wines using the traditional method, akin to techniques used 

in Champagne. The unique character of the wines and their faultless quality have 

garnered considerable success, not just in their home region, but also across 

France, then among its European neighbours and now worldwide. Representing 

36% of volumes, Crémant d’Alsace is now the leading appellation sparkling wine 

for at-home consumption in the French market after Champagne. Some Crémants 

d’Alsace are made entirely from a single grape variety, whilst others are made from 

a harmonious blend of several grapes, each adding balance to the wine. The most 

commonly found grape, Pinot blanc, lends them freshness and delicacy. Riesling 

instils Crémants with lively, fruity notes, freighted with elegance and pedigree, 

while Pinot gris adds richness and structure and Chardonnay suffuses the wines 

with fine, light toasted notes. Pinot noir is the only grape variety permitted for 

Crémant d’Alsace rosé and also Blancs de Noir. 


61

ALSACE 

REGION 

FROM WHITE TO CRÉMANT 

STEPHAN GRAPPE, CHAIRMAN OF 

THE HUNAWIHR CO-OPERATIVE 

THE HUNAWIHR CO-OPERATIVE WINERY 

As for the backstory, Alsace is renowned for its 

fine white wines which show incredible variety, 

fuelled by the nuances of its geological tapestry 

and its vineyard sites. It now plays a pivotal role 

in sating consumers’ demand for Crémants, 

drawing on a range of top quality single vineyard 

wines and a penchant for sparkling wines with 

little or no dosage. Crémant d’Alsace has become 

a powerhouse for the sparkling appellation wine 

category, accounting for 50% of growth. “Sparkling 

wine never goes out of fashion and has long been 

driven by Champagne”, says sommelier Caroline 

Furstoss, an expert in Alsace wines who founded 

the website Sommelier particulier in 2016. Alsace, 

with its quality Crémants, is a real challenger 

and spearheads the category. Unlike Burgundy, 

where winegrowers outsource the sparkling 

process to specialised companies, in Alsace 

most Crémant stays in producers’ cellars and is a 

regular feature in their portfolio. In value terms, 

for many winegrowers the category is becoming 

almost as worthwhile as still wines. A case in point 

is Domaine Jean-Claude Buecher, in Wettolsheim, 

which produces an exclusive range of superb wines. 

Renowned for its whites, the Hunawihr co-operative 

winery also produces stunning Crémants. 

“Over the past 5 years, we have given the range a 

make-over”, says winemaker Anthony Bondon. 

“Our revised standards involve the freshness of 

the wines, reducing dosage and therefore sugar 

levels, and dialling up fruit characters. We have 

adapted our choice of techniques and harvest 

earlier. Ultimately, we have given each individual 

wine an identity of its own”. At Maison Cattin, 

another regional benchmark, Crémant d’Alsace is a 

staple, representing almost half of its production, 

equating to 1.5 million bottles per year. “Crémant 

has been pivotal to our development over the last 

30 years”, says Jacques Cattin. “40% of our wines 

are exported to some forty countries. Our family, 

particularly my father Jacques-Antoine Cattin, 

who chaired the Crémant d’Alsace producers’ 

organisation, has always believed in this quality 

sparkling wine. Our range goes from affordable 


ANTHONY BONDON THE 

WINEMAKER AT THE 

HUNAWIHR CO-OPERATIVE 


63

ALSACE 

REGION 

labels showing good value for money to outstanding 

offerings sourced from single vineyards, 

which undergo lengthy ageing on the lees. All 

our wines come from environmentally-friendly 

vineyards, some of them organic. Some offer 

instant gratification whilst others are designed 

for special occasions and more exclusive gourmet 

food experiences”. 

THE SIGNIFICANCE OF HISTORY 

MAISON CATTIN 

ORSCHWILLER’S VINEYARDS PROMOTE THEIR REGIONAL ROOTS 

AND THE LAND OF HAUT-KOENIGSBOURG 

Drawing on a long-standing tradition as a 

producer of fine white wines, Alsace has quite 

naturally carved out a place for its Crémants in a 

competitive marketplace. Riesling and Gewurztraminer 

have been woven into the region’s identity 

for aeons. One is dry and is an impressive mirror 

to the region’s top terroirs, whilst the other is 

usually fruitier, mellower and can even be sweet 

as with the late harvest or noble rot bottlings. 

Winegrowers are therefore well equipped to meet 

everyone’s requirements for quality white wines, 

from the accessible to the very sophisticated offerings. 

All of these factors have combined to make 

Crémant d’Alsace, once an under-the-radar wine, 

the leading French sparkling appellation. Its 

success stems from the range of grape varieties, 

blending, the winemaking process, ageing time 

on the lees and dosage. Their endless combination 

is matched only by the choice of wines, each 

displaying a different style. “With its high-end 

image, quality and quintessential, traditional 

expertise, Crémant d’Alsace is energising the 

sparkling wine market”, says Nadia Lelandais, 

director of the Orschwiller co-operative winery, 

the first woman to run a co-operative in Alsace. “It 

is popular with consumers and recognised by the 

trade, and is a remarkable combination of simplicity 

and modernity designed for sociable occasions 

in a rapidly growing market. It is a category driver 

which enhances the expertise of our winegrowers. 

Modernisation and newly-minted luxury cues, 

combining simplicity, modernity and sociability, 

have helped expand our sales with exports representing 

60%”. 


ALSACE 

REGION 

Domaine Armand Gilg has been producing 

Crémants for 40 years and has built up a reputation 

for the quality, consistency and variety of 

its range. Its portfolio has grown over the years 

to 6 different Crémants, accounting for one third 

of total production. “Our flagship label is the 

Crémant Brut, an Auxerrois-dominant blend with 

Pinot gris and Riesling, which is also available in 

a Brut Nature version, with no dosage at disgorgement, 

and Brut Prestige with a minimum of 

36 months on the lees”, explains Michèle Lehner, 

wife of Jean-Christophe Lehner, who owns the 

estate with Thierry Gilg. “We also produce a 

single varietal Riesling Crémant, a Blanc de Noir 

and a rosé Crémant. To celebrate forty years of 

producing Crémant, we are launching our first 

Chardonnay Vintage Crémant in the spring. It 

spends 60 months on the lees and will stand at 

the pinnacle of our range”. 

On the Alsace wine route, nestled amidst the 

superb rolling hills, is the sleepy winegrowing 

village of Blienschwiller, home to Domaine 

Jérôme Meyer’s vineyards. “Right from the outset, 

I wanted to create a top-end sparkling wine”, says 

Meyer. “So naturally we replicated the techniques 

that have proved successful in Champagne for the 

top labels. Our flagship sparkling wine, Perles de 

Granit Brut, is made exclusively from the finest 

juices to craft the most prestigious offering, 

which shows an excellent attack and very fine 

bubbles. Then, over time, our customers wanted 

us to produce a fruit-forward Brut rosé with a 

fairly pale colour, which is delicate and rounded. 

Subsequently, we created the Crémant Prestige, 

a more affordable, easy-drinking sparkling wine. 

Our range will soon be complemented by a single 

varietal Chardonnay and a Blanc de Noirs”. 

JEAN-CHRISTOPHE LEHNER IN HIS CELLAR AT DOMAINE ARMAND GILG 

THIERRY GILG HOSTING A TASTING OF HIS WINES 

THE MANY BENEFITS 

OF CRÉMANT 

Producing Crémant requires specific equipment, 

from the arrival of the grapes to the labelling of 

the bottles, as well as larger storage capacity 

than for still wine. Harvesting overheads are also 


65

ALSACE 

REGION 

JÉRÔME MEYER PRESENTING HIS WINES 

THE TEAM AT DOMAINE LAURENT VOGT 

higher. Once sorted, the grapes need to be transported 

quickly to the press in small containers. 

Transport and unloading are also more labour-intensive. 

Vins Joseph Freudenreich et Fils is based 

in Eguisheim, one of France’s most picturesque 

villages located along the Alsace Wine Route. “We 

have been producing Crémants since 1982 and they 

account for up to 25% of our sales”, explains Amélie 

Freudenreich. “From a price perspective, Crémant 

costs more to produce than still wine, because of 

the bottles, the secondary bottle fermentation and 

the more expensive cork and wire cap. But it is a 

very popular wine that complements our range 

perfectly. It offers attractive prices and its quality 

is virtually on a par with that of Champagne”. 

Domaine Laurent Vogt has its roots in the heart of 

the region and since 1970, it has developed unrivalled 

proficiency in farming vines which have 

been certified organic since 2013 and biodynamic 

since the 2020 vintage. Some great sparkling 

wines have successfully joined its product range. 

“Our Crémants are made using the traditional 

method from Pinot blanc or noir, Auxerrois and 

Chardonnay”, explains Sylvie Vogt. “Slow pressing 

of whole clusters followed by ageing on the 

lees for about 18 months lends the wines finesse 

and delicacy”. 

Another regional institution, the Zaepffel family, 

markets a fresh, palatable Blanc Brut with fine 

bubbles, a rosé Crémant that is also very popular 

and a single varietal Chardonnay that is still being 

aged on the lees. “Their appeal as an aperitif is 

probably the most significant magnet for Crémant 

d’Alsace”, says Anne-Sophie Zaepffel. “Consumers 

choose a Riesling, a Gewurztraminer or a Crémant 

depending on what they intend to drink them with 

and each grape variety and production process 

has its own unique features”. It has proven to be 

a winning formula – in 2021, sales reached record 

levels with several producers posting double-digit 

increases in sales volumes. “Crémant is a festive 

wine which is more accessible than Champagne 

and clearly on-trend”, stresses Meyer. “It is also a 

chameleon that is not just an aperitif but can easily 

be paired with a wide range of foods”. 

Boasting three centuries of experience, Maison 


THE FREUDENREICH 

FAMILY 

THOMAS VOGT 

IN HIS VINEYARDS 

MAXIMILIEN ZAEPFFEL 


67

ALSACE 

REGION 

Willy Gisselbrecht has tapped into the trend, with 25% of its wines sold in export 

markets. Epitomising excellence, the estate produces 4 different labels – a Brut, a 

Blanc de Noirs, a rosé and a high-end Crémant Emotion. “After the downturn in 

2020 due to lockdown, sales of Crémant recovered spectacularly in 2021, for several 

reasons”, comments Claude Gisselbrecht. “A desire by consumers to celebrate once 

again dovetailed with a need for the trade to replenish inventories that had fallen to 

their lowest point in 2020. In France and export markets alike, we are witnessing a 

tangible increase in demand for sparkling wines which is clearly benefitting Alsace. 

The region offers wines of proven quality, where a longer ageing process, the blends 

and high-end labels are stoking sales and boosting the image of Crémant d’Alsace. 

It is also an opportunity for all our appellations”. 

CLAUDE GISSELBRECHT IN HIS VINEYARDS 

THE CHAPEL IN THE VINEYARDS OF DAMBACH-LA-VILLE 


ALSACE 

REGION 

ANAÏS AND JACQUES CATTIN 

HUGE POTENTIAL 

Virtually everyone agrees about the potential for Crémant d’Alsace, which has 

all the requisite qualities to further bolster its reputation, particularly in export 

markets, and continue its move upmarket. Admittedly, the pandemic has restricted 

the number of drinking occasions for Crémants d’Alsace due to the closure of 

restaurants and fewer opportunities for celebrating, affecting sales in 2020. “Last 

year, the desire to get back to normal and to enjoy some good wines naturally 

benefited Crémant d’Alsace”, says Jacques Cattin. “There is no denying its quality of 

aroma and flavour. Efforts to ramp up quality during the production process have 

paid off. The region’s climate is another advantage – lending the wines freshness 

yet also ripeness”. Quality sparkling wines are on a roll and Crémant d’Alsace aligns 

perfectly with new consumption patterns, with consumers increasingly attuned 

to provenance and production methods in the products they purchase, especially 

when it comes to food and drink. Added to this is the fact that Crémant d’Alsace 

still has an attractive price tag and often offers remarkable quality, tinged with 

freshness and genuine delicacy. 


69

GOOD VALUE 

BURGUNDY 

BY ALAIN ECHALIER 

PHOTOGRAPHS: 

COURTESY OF THE ESTATES - 

© BIVB SÉBASTIEN BOULARD 

For aeons, Burgundy’s Grands Crus, labels such as Montrachet, Romanée Conti 

or Chambertin with their often hefty price tags, have inspired wine enthusiasts 

the world over. But prestigious wines are not Burgundy’s only forte. We take 

a closer look at the lesser known side of the region’s wine range – the ‘generic’ 

Burgundies, which also have a terroir story to tell. 

VINES IN THE COURTYARD AT DOMAINE BOUSSARD 


BURGUNDY 

APPELLATION 

HERVE KERLANN’S VINEYARDS IN CUILLERY, ON THE WAY TO POMMARD 

Burgundy’s top wines are primarily named after their vineyard site – 

Montrachet or Chambertin for example, locally referred to as ‘climats’ – or 

their home village (Gevrey-Chambertin, Chablis…). 

The balance of the region’s wines can be only identified by the name of the region 

– Bourgogne or Burgundy – positioned in the centre of the label for enhanced 

visibility. On around half of these wines, the name of the region is followed by a 

complementary geographical designation such as Chitry, Montrecul or Tonnerre. 

These specific designations either refer again to a village or to an area slightly 

larger where the typicity – soil type, micro-climate and vineyard management 

techniques for instance – is less consistent. This level of appellation is described 

as regional or generic. 

Right off the bat, we should stress one important point, and that is that two recent 

phenomena have combined to significantly ramp up the quality, typicity and reputation 

of these wines. The first is the dearth of wines, pushing availabilities out of 

sync with global demand, thereby triggering a rise in prices and providing growers 

with the resources to constantly progress. The second is global warming, which 

has improved quality in the northern part of Burgundy where sunshine levels may 

previously have been slightly lacking. 

THE DEFINITION OF TERROIR 

As a wine region, Burgundy stretches over 250 km from North to South. Vines grow 

at elevations ranging from 250 to 400 m above sea level. The North is home to wide 

valleys which push sidelong into the limestone plateaux of the Paris basin. In the 


71

BURGUNDY 

APPELLATION 

middle, a thin strip located on the border between the valley floor and the plateau 

is called the ‘Côte’, and in the South, in the Mâcon area, hill ranges run parallel to 

one another from North to South. Wines labelled under the regional ‘Bourgogne’ 

appellation mostly hail from the northern part of the Côte. 

The climate is moderately oceanic, fairly cool but, as mentioned above, warming 

up due to climate change. Winters are cold and summers fairly hot. The average 

temperature is 11°C and rainfall is quite well distributed all year round. 

Red wines hold the lion’s share of the regional appellation. The native Pinot noir 

grape is virtually the only contender in the three northern departments. In the 

South, however, Gamay puts in an appearance, as does the black varietal César in 

Yonne, though in small quantities. 

For the white wines, Chardonnay – also native to the region – is the ubiquitous 

grape. Although a dash of Pinot blanc is occasionally added, the variety is tending 

to be phased out. Aligoté can be used to make single varietals, subsequently 

labelled ‘Bourgogne Aligoté’. 

THE CO-OP IS NOW CALLED LES ORFÈVRES DU VIN 


BURGUNDY 

APPELLATION 

SAINT-BRIS-LE-VINEUX 

As Pinot noir and Chardonnay react strongly to variations in their natural setting, 

Yonne wines – in the North – show high acidity, whereas their counterparts in the 

southern areas are more supple. 

The wines are bone dry, with less than 2g/litre of residual sugar for the reds. Irrigation 

and use of wood chips are outlawed, and yields must not be in excess of sixty or 

so hectolitres per hectare. All of this paves the way for quality wines, enshrined in 

law since 1937. Though the percentage may vary from one year to the next, around 

45% of output is bound for exports. 

DOMAINE PERSENOT GÉRARD: ALIGOTE ON POINT 

This estate, located in Saint-Bris-le-Vineux, boasts 23 hectares. 65-year-old Chantal 

introduces us to the property. She and her husband, a fourth- generation farmer, now 

only deal with sales, whilst their son-in-law produces the wines. The village’s claim 

to fame is that it is the only one in Burgundy to grow Sauvignon blanc – after all, 

Sancerre is not far away. But at this particular estate, Aligoté reigns supreme with 9 

hectares under vine. The variety grows on clay-limestone soils where the limestone 

content is lower than for Chardonnay; the Persenots also produce Chablis and Petit- 

Chablis. Although traditionally, Aligoté is served with a dash of blackcurrant liqueur, 

more careful winemaking and advances in quality make it a good partner for appetisers 

of cold cuts or starters – without the ‘crème de cassis’. The price tag is just 7 

euros a bottle, and although conventional cork closures are used, the wines are only 

designed to be kept for a couple of years. 

The family also produces some red Bourgogne Côte d’Auxerre, partly matured in 

oak, from a six-hectare vineyard. Neither oak chips nor staves are welcome here, and 

consumers enjoy the faint oaky note. There is also a white iteration, which is either 

aged in tanks or with a little oak – prices range from €9 to 11. The good news is that, 

at these prices, Burgundy becomes perfectly affordable. On the flipside, production 

is low and the family “is not looking for new customers”. 


73

BURGUNDY 

APPELLATION 

OLIVIER TRICON OF DOMAINE DE VAUROUX 

DOMAINE DE VAUROUX: 

IF THE ENTRY-LEVEL WINE 

IS GOOD… 

Olivier Tricon, the owner of Vauroux farm, 

will soon have clocked up 40 years as a farmer. 

Located in Chablis, he obviously produces wine, 

but also wheat, peas and lentils, among others. 

This enables him to make his own compost, which 

he uses as an amendment for his vines. 

He also farms a dozen hectares of Chardonnay 

to produce ‘Bourgogne Chardonnay’, at yields 

of 40 to 50 hl/ha, well below the maximum legal 

threshold. The wines sell well and enjoy good 

growth in export markets such as Japan, the 

United Kingdom and the Nordic countries. Not 

everybody is familiar with the finer details of 

Burgundy vineyard sites, so being able to use 

just two words to describe the wines is useful. As 

he lacks grapes, he buys in fruit for his trading 

business but strives to produce a hallmark ‘Côte 

d’Or’ style. As he points out, the area produces the 

kind of minerality and acidity that you don’t find 

elsewhere in Burgundy. It’s not all plain sailing, 

as demonstrated in 2021 when spring frost dealt 

a big blow to output. Olivier’s overriding aim is 

to provide his customers with quality wines, but 

not at the price of Chablis. 

He only uses stainless steel tanks, ferments the 

wines slowly at low temperatures and is in no rush 

to bottle the wines. Although consumers increasingly 

drink young wines, he provides something 

in the middle ground. The previous weekend, he 

tasted some 2017s and 2018s which offer the style 

he prefers. 

Climate change has prompted him to adapt, bringing 

harvest dates forward for instance. Generally 

speaking, the fruit is now healthier, chemical 

weedkillers have been superseded by machine 

tillage and use of sulphur has decreased dramatically. 

In fact, he bottles his wines in a nitrogen 

atmosphere, further reducing usage of this typical 

preservative. ABV stands at around 12% and must 

not climb any higher, otherwise the acidity would 

drop. Anyway, Olivier Tricon is not a fan of 13.5% 

ABV wines – there needs to be a refreshing feel 

and the fruit shouldn’t be overripe or too concen- 


BURGUNDY 

APPELLATION 

trated. For the aperitif, keeping the wines ethereal is key. The estate offers a perfect 

illustration of the old saying that, if a winery’s entry-level wine is good, then the 

rest will follow. 

DOMAINE BOUSSARD: A MATTER OF PERSONAL TASTE 

Olivier and Isabelle Boussard are at the helm of an estate they literally created from 

the ground up, starting with planting their own vines. The vineyards are located 

in Chablis, whilst the winery and cellar are farther South, in Nitry. They now farm 

23 hectares and every year apply for some extra planting rights. 

Their wines are mostly white, mirroring the pattern across the region, and they 

produce several ‘Bourgogne Chardonnay’ labels fermented in stainless steel. In a 

blind comparison of the region’s wines, Isabelle explains that whilst Petit Chablis 

is easy to recognise with its very lively characters, the nuances between a Chablis 

village and their Bourgogne Chardonnay become more subtle. Only a seasoned 

taster can spot the difference. 

Their vineyards are also home to 8 to 9 hectares of Pinot noir, which allows them 

to produce a red wine and some rosé. The vines are now old enough to produce 

ISABELLE AND OLIVIER BOUSSARD AND THEIR DAUGHTER MARGOT 


75

BURGUNDY 

APPELLATION 

CHABLIS WINEGROWER BAUDOUIN MILLET 

quality wines. Isabelle recommends serving them 

in glasses with a large bowl at fairly cool temperatures 

of around 13 to 14°C because they warm up 

very quickly. Also, using a decanter to aerate them 

can prove beneficial, particularly as all the estate’s 

wines have very low amounts of added sulphur. 

The rosé has a fairly deep colour and is made using 

the ‘saignee’ method where the grapes soak for 

around ten hours on the skins. This is a far cry 

from the typical Provençal style of pale rosés. They 

are a firm favourite with customers and the estate 

carries no inventories. Despite this, production of 

rosé wine in Burgundy is constantly on the decline 

and now marginal. 

The final wine in the couple’s portfolio is a Crémant 

de Bourgogne rosé, where their Pinot noir wine is 

transformed into a sparkling offering by a service 

provider. Isabelle has a preference for the rosé 

version which she finds less acidic than the white 

– and for that she is willing to use their Pinot noir 

even if it is more expensive than Chardonnay. Ultimately 

though, for 12 euros a bottle, you can indulge 

in some raspberry-scented, traditional method 

sparkling wine in Burgundy-style bottles. 

BAUDOUIN MILLET: KEEPING 

BURGUNDY AFFORDABLE 

Baudouin Millet’s farm is located in Tonnerre, just a 

few kilometres North-East of Chablis. He therefore 

produces Chablis, but also provides vineyard maintenance 

services, grows cereal crops, and produces 

electricity from solar panels. Basically, he’s an entrepreneur 

if ever there was one! 

He also owns a wine trading company and produces 

Bourgogne Chardonnay, buying grapes around 

Tonnerre and Auxerre, so mostly in northern 

Burgundy. In the glass, the difference between his 

Chardonnay and a Petit Chablis is marginal – the 

vineyards are occasionally even adjacent. The wine 

sells for around 12 euros, compared with 12.5 for 

Petit Chablis. But there are times when he sources 

grapes from the other end of Burgundy, near 

Mâcon. 

In 2021, a dramatic fall in production led to a 

two-fold increase in the price of fruit compared 


BURGUNDY 

APPELLATION 

with previous years. So does this sound the death 

knell for reasonably priced Burgundy wine? Is the 

retail price about to double? Millet’s answer is reassuring 

– no, the entire supply chain, from producers 

through to distributors, will reduce their profit 

margins, though some increases are to be expected. 

Although Baudouin Millet is a lover of red wine, he 

doesn’t actually produce any. He did consider it, but 

despite global warming and possible use of barrel 

ageing, he feels that red wines from the Tonnerre 

region are still too light. 

So he produces a Crémant, blended from local 

Chardonnay and Pinot noir. A friend carries out 

the secondary bottle fermentation, but he decides 

on the blend – usually 2/3 Pinot noir and 1/3 Chardonnay 

– and the dosage. The resultant sparkling 

wine is labelled as ‘Brut’ even if the current dosage 

is just 4g/litre, and it certainly has a tense flavour, 

making it just right for the aperitif! 

DOMAINE BAUDOUIN MILLET ALSO PRODUCES ELECTRICITY! 

MAISON KERLANN: 

WINES FOR PLEASURE 

Hervé Kerlann is an oddball on the Burgundy 

wine scene. Although his family used to trade in 

wine, Kerlann is of Breton descent, was born in 

Morocco, has lived in Bordeaux and Canada and 

has had a number of professions. In 1998, he took 

over what was left of Château de Laborde, built in 

1678 in Meursanges. 

He has 3 hectares of vines, 2 of which are entitled to 

‘Bourgogne’ status; the remainder is labelled either 

as PGI Sainte-Marie La Blanche or Vin De France. 

Even though all the land is in Burgundy – South- 

East of Beaune – not all of it falls within the boundaries 

of the Burgundy appellations. 

From these vineyards, he crafts a Pinot noir 

which retails for €10 a bottle and, as he points out 

proudly, is sold by the Grande Epicerie in Paris and 

for export to Japan. In a previous life, he used to 

export wines to Asia and has held on to a part of 

this business. 

He also produces a Bourgogne Aligoté which is 

soaked on the skins for 4 days in barrels made from 

acacia wood. Although the length of soaking is too 

short for the resultant wine to be called ‘orange’, it’s 

CHATEAU DE LABORDE 


77

BURGUNDY 

APPELLATION 

PASSIONNATE 

WINEGROWER 

HERVE KERLANN 


BURGUNDY 

APPELLATION 

an experiment. “I conduct trials”, he explains, “and 

in doing so, I get a different texture”. 

There is also a white Pinot noir-based wine 

labelled PGI Sainte-Marie La Blanche. Asked 

why he produces a ‘blanc de noirs’ in Burgundy, 

he responds, “Why not? Personally I like Blanc de 

Noirs Champagne, so…” 

OLIVIER PAULERT, THE OWNER OF CHÂTEAU DE COUCHES, WITH PAZ LEVINSON, 

BEST ARGENTINE SOMMELIER FROM 2010 TO 2014 

CAVE DE MAZENAY: 

MOVING UPMARKET 

Jean-Christophe Pascaud is the technical director 

of the estate, which belongs to the owner of 

Château de Couches. He manages twenty hectares 

eligible for the ‘Bourgogne Côtes du Couchois’ 

appellation, just two of which are planted to 

Chardonnay. The primary focus here is red wine. 

Pascaud also buys fruit, thereby more or less 

doubling production. 

Some of the Pinot noir grapes are dispatched to 

négociants, whilst the remainder is bottled and 

sold directly, mainly from the cellar door facilities. 

Prices range from €7-8 to 12.5. “€12.5 seemed 

expensive, but with increased demand and price 

rises across Burgundy, that is no longer true”, 

comments Pascaud. 

There was a time when the area was colder 

than the ‘Côte’, i.e. the more prestigious part of 

Burgundy which is home to the Côte de Nuits and 

the Côte de Beaune. But the latest hot years in 

2018, 2019 and 2020 have ramped up quality levels. 

Is there a desire then to gravitate towards village 

appellation status instead of simply a complementary 

geographical designation? Definitely, says the 

estate’s technical director. In fact, a dozen estates 

in the local area are already mapping out vineyard 

sites. With the clock ticking, it’s probably best to 

discover the wines whilst they’re still affordable! 

JEAN-CHRISTOPHE PASCAUD AND LUDIVINE GRIVEAU, 

MANAGER OF THE HOSPICES DE BEAUNE VINEYARDS 

LES ORFÈVRES DU VIN: 

ATTRACTING A NEW CONSUMER 

AUDIENCE 

On the other side of Burgundy, in the Mâcon 

region, this small co-operative winery currently has 


79

BURGUNDY 

APPELLATION 

SOME OF THE MEMBERS OF THE ORFEVRES DU VIN WINERY 

MARYLIN VANDAELE POURS AMÉLIE THOMAS SOME WINE AT LES ORFÈVRES DU VIN 

45 member growers who farm 85 hectares of vines. 

Amélie Thomas handles winemaking and Maryline 

Vandaele sales. 

The range here includes Coteaux Bourguignons 

made from Gamay and sold for €5.80. Beaujolais-style 

winemaking techniques are used so 

the wine is distinctively fruit-driven and slightly 

peppery. The winery is popular with private 

customers who come to buy wines from the shop 

in bottles or even in boxes – why not? 

The Bourgogne Pinot noir with a price tag of €8.10 

also sells well. It displays faint liquorice and white 

pepper notes. Again, it offers access to Burgundylabelled 

wines without breaking the bank. 

Obviously the two partners in wine produce whites 

too. The Aligoté, which is only made in diminutive 

amounts, shows very distinctive citrus fruits and 

intense aromatics, pushing its former blackcurrant 

liqueur sidekick onto the backburner. With a 

starting price of €8.90, the Chardonnay is slightly 

more expensive but still very affordable. 

In 2021, frost slashed production volumes by 

half. Some local winegrowers are planning to 

offset the volume decline by a 20% increase in 

prices. As northern Burgundy intends to raise its 

prices significantly, the knock-on effect is to give 

southern Burgundy some ‘breathing space’. In 

fact, Maryline has already noticed a change in the 

winery’s customer base. Despite this, Les Orfèvres 

intends to apply only moderate price increases of 

between 8 and 12%. 

As always, Burgundy is home to the two extremes 

on the scale – prestige and luxury on one side, 

simplicity and pleasure on the other. And although 

the latter category is tending to contract sharply 

due to consumers trading up, we have to be 

thankful that it is still alive and well, both in the 

North and South of the region. That’s not only for 

all of us to continue treating ourselves, but also 

so that a time-honoured countryside tradition of 

wine as a food, without snobbery and for casual 

enjoyment can continue into the future. 


IN IGP COUNTRY, 

PAYS D’OC REIGNS 

SUPREME 

BY CAMILLE BERNARD 

PHOTOGRAPHS: 


IGP Pays d’Oc covers a 120,000-hectare swathe of land from the Camargue 

to the Côte Vermeille. This extensive area is home to 20,000 winegrowers who 

produce wines that wear the colours of the South with pride, both nationally 

and internationally. 

THE VINEYARDS AT MAS DU NOVI 

LÉGENDES 


81

LANGUEDOC 

INSIGHT 

IGP Pays d’Oc covers a 120,000-hectare swathe of land from the Camargue to the 

Côte Vermeille. This extensive area is home to 20,000 winegrowers who produce 

wines that wear the colours of the South with pride, both nationally and internationally. 

Grapes have been grown in Languedoc and Roussillon, and more broadly speaking 

in Occitania, for 26 centuries. During that time, vines have been a constant feature 

of the landscape and with good reason – over the years, the region became a wine 

powerhouse, producing millions of hectolitres every year for consumers across the 

globe. None of this would have been possible were it not for the remarkable feats 

of engineering across the area – the Canal du Midi, the Via Domitia, the Camino 

de Santiago pilgrim routes and Sète harbour. 

By the 1970s, however, the decline in consumption of jug wines in France and 

competition from foreign wines threw sand in the gears, and brought the boom 

grinding to a halt. The resultant crisis forced growers to rip up or restructure their 

vineyards in order to promote quality over quantity. 

This quality revolution spawned Vins de Pays d’Oc in 1987. What made them innovative 

at the time – their varietal labelling – is still very much their present-day 

calling card. Made from a single grape variety, like myriad foreign wines, this 

specific feature is clearly stated on the label and makes them understandable by 

non-local consumers, allowing them to gain market shares in export markets. The 

gamble paid off and thirty-five years later, Pays d’Oc is France’s leading still wine 

designation by volume in export markets, producing 92% single varietal wines 

and 8% blends. In 2009, the producers’ organisation secured the highly coveted 

HARVESTING AT DOMAINE DE LONGUEROCHE 


LANGUEDOC 

INSIGHT 

MIXED FARMING AT DOMAINE DE LONGUEROCHE 

Protected Geographical Indication status, in recognition 

of its determination to offer site-expressiveness 

to its 58 grape varieties selected for their 

quality aromas and flavours. The pandemic does 

not seem to have stymied their determination – 

PGI Pays d’Oc have seen both revenue (+2%) and 

volume (+4.4%) grow. 

But how well known are the wines and how do 

they gain a foothold in various markets? We asked 

some talented producers to tell us more. 

DOMAINE DE LONGUEROCHE: 

“THE CRISIS HASN’T 

AFFECTED ME” 

ROGER BERTRAND, OWNER OF DOMAINE DE LONGUEROCHE 

Roger Bertrand established Domaine de Longueroche 

thirty years ago in Saint-André-de-Roquelongue 

in the Corbières. He now farms his thirty-hectare 

vineyard organically, out of conviction 

but also so that he “doesn’t miss out on any sales 

in markets like Germany, which is now off-limits 

if you don’t produce organic wines”, he claims. As 

a winegrower, he feels that “succeeding is all down 

to the amount of work you put in”. 

As a testament to his desire to go beyond the ‘basic’ 

requirements of farming organically, he explains: 

“We also try to protect biodiversity by using sheep 

which graze in our vineyards but also by installing 

bat roosts. When combined with mating disruption 

techniques, they enable us to produce pesticide-free 

wines”. His methods also “add value to 

the wines”. Six of them are labelled IGP Pays d’Oc, 

and twenty under the Corbières appellation, but 

the top-end wines are not hived off for the appellation 

range. “All our vineyards are harvested by 

hand and our IGP Chardonnay and Syrah wines 

are matured in barrels”. Such attention to detail 

has allowed the estate to ride out the health crisis. 

In fact, Roger Bertrand’s comment on the issue 

is crystal clear: “The crisis hasn’t affected me”. 

Every year, 25,000 bottles of IGP-labelled wines 

are produced, some of them exported to Belgium, 

Holland, Switzerland, and now Germany. The 

estate has also developed an online store, “which 

has really enabled us to boost sales”. 


83

LANGUEDOC 

INSIGHT 

WINES AND BRANDS: 

“HAND-CRAFTED WINES” 

TO PROMOTE THE IGP 

CHEF JÉRÔME NUTILE SURROUNDED BY KLAUS RUNE HANSEN (LEFT) 

AND GÉRARD GUITER (RIGHT) 

THE VINEYARDS AT DOMAINE LA BOULANDIERE 

This shipping company has played a pivotal role in 

driving up the quality of IGP Pays d’Oc wines. The 

owners of “several brands with a firm rooting in Occitania”, 

founder-director Klaus Rune Hansen and his 

partner Gérard Guiter are mindful to “help develop 

the amazing Pays d’Oc wine region by promoting it 

internationally”, explains Hansen. To achieve this, 

they are both enterprising and imaginative, even 

going so far as to create a ‘Signature Chef’ range in 

conjunction with world-class chefs such as Jérôme 

Nutile, Michel Sarran, Gilles Goujon and Paul Pairet. 

“Our aim with the chefs was to align the grape 

varieties with their personality and cuisine”. The 

strategy broke new ground in 2019 when they 

“blended hand-crafted wines, in the same way that 

you would assemble a recipe”. 

The ‘signature’ wines are exported to China, Ireland, 

England, Canada, the Czech Republic, Benelux, 

Germany and Scandinavian countries, securing 

international exposure for them. They also offer “an 

enhanced experience for consumers who can scan 

the QR code on the neck label and access a recipe 

produced by the chef associated with the wine”. 

As the partners know only too well, the backbone 

of Pays d’Oc wines is the single varietal segment 

and they have therefore developed a ‘Rares Terroirs’ 

range where “each bottle is numbered to showcase 

the different vineyard sites and the way the grape 

varieties express themselves there”. The range 

currently embraces seven wines but is still growing. 

The company also knows that raising the profile of 

IGP Pays d’Oc wines involves tapping into the reputation 

of ambassadors in the hospitality industry – the 

premium collection thus offers a fun way of discovering 

the designation, “through a vertical tasting”. 

DOMAINE LA BOULANDIÈRE : 

“EDUCATION AND UNIQUENESS” 

Burgundy is home to remarkable ‘climats’, but 

the vineyard sites of the Minervois area can also 


THE CHEF MICHEL SARRAN 

HAS HIS OWN LABEL AT 

WINES AND BRANDS 

VINEYARDS SELECTED NEAR 

NARBONNE TO PRODUCE 

WINES IN THE SIGNATURE 

CHEF RANGE 

JEAN-BENOÎT VUITTENEZ, 

OWNER OF DOMAINE 

LA BOULANDIÈRE 


85

LANGUEDOC 

INSIGHT 

THE VINEYARDS AT DOMAINE LA BOULANDIÈRE ARE FARMED ORGANICALLY 

HARVESTING AT DOMAINE LA BOULANDIÈRE 

compete effortlessly due to the outstanding 

quality of their soils. As proof, Burgundy winegrower 

Jean-Benoît Vuittenez took over Domaine 

la Boulandière in Aude in 2016. 

Here, the passionate winegrower found one of the 

flagship grape varieties from its native region – 

Chardonnay. “Right from the word go, we chose 

to grow Chardonnay which displays a typical 

style here, with high alcohol content, unlike in 

Burgundy where expression more easily focuses on 

minerality”, he explains. His immediate priority, 

though, was to revert to some “good old-fashioned 

farming wisdom” and “convert the estate over to 

organic to give the wines real legitimacy”. This 

holistic approach allowed him to “work with 

very healthy grapes”. With the Chardonnay, “we 

instantly aimed for balanced sugar and acidity by 

starting harvesting at least a week before everyone 

else”. It was a bold decision but one that paid off, 

and the anticipated result has been realised. Early 

harvesting also “reduces usage of sulphur” for the 

Jean label, and removes it entirely for the natural 

wine. 

More recently, the estate launched a Syrah which 

has been “far more successful” than Vuittenez had 

ever imagined – it has been showered with praise 

by wine critics, achieving a remarkable rating 

of 91/100 in the Gilbert & Gaillard International 

Challenge. 

“In the marketplace, where we are competing with 

New World wines in which terroir plays no part, 

the focus has to be on trying to make good wine 

that meets consumers’ expectations. The issue is 

all about education and uniqueness”. Although 

the winery only produces small volumes, some of 

which are distributed via “the existing network of 

friends in Beaune”, the wines are also enjoyed in 

Boston, Portugal and England. 

MAS DU NOVI: LEADING THE 

CHARGE FOR IGP PAYS D’OC 

In one of Languedoc’s finest vineyard sites, Mas 

du Novi is home to vines that have thrived here 

since the 11 th century. Originally belonging to the 


LANGUEDOC 

INSIGHT 

LÉGENDES 

THIERRY THOMAS, THE OWNER OF MAS DU NOVI 

remarkable Valmagne abbey, the estate is one of rare beauty. Thierry Thomas has 

been at the helm for nearly thirty years, producing wines whose reputation extends 

well beyond national borders. 

In the IGP Pays d’Oc segment, in particular, Thierry Thomas is famed worldwide 

for his masterful approach to Chardonnay, which he ferments as a single varietal 

for his Lou Blanc and Chardonnay Fût labels. The final addition to the range is V 

de Novi, a “100% Viognier, half aged in new oak demi-muids and half in sandstone 

eggs”. The wine not only stands out for its unusual winemaking techniques, it also 

sports a “double-sided label symbolising the fusion between animals and plants, 

thereby honouring the mixed farming” applied to the vineyards. 

In this pristine environment, surrounded by woodland and garrigue, 42 hectares 

of vines are grown to produce not only IGP wines but also AOC Languedoc and 

Grés de Montpellier. The range thus provides something for everyone, including 

consumers in Canada, Hong Kong, Singapore, Switzerland, Germany, Ireland, 

Belgium, the United States, the United Kingdom, Australia, Denmark and Sweden, 

where the estate exports its wines, primarily its varietals. 


87

LANGUEDOC 

INSIGHT 

PAYS D’OC – A RESILIENT, 

SUSTAINABLE BRAND NAME 

The French wine industry, which was long accused of being unable to compete with 

New World wines, can leverage regional IGPs such as Pays d’Oc to secure a place on 

consumers’ tables. Admittedly, this entailed restructuring the vineyards to make 

way for better quality wines, but this revolution has been masterfully accomplished 

by Pays d’Oc producers. For over thirty years, they have excelled for their ability to 

innovate, both from an environmental and economic perspective. France’s leading 

exporter of still wines by volume, the designation seems not only to be able to 

withstand crises, but even to stay one step ahead. By perpetually questioning the 

‘formula’ for making wines that fit the zeitgeist, there is every likelihood that the 

huge strides achieved over the past few years will continue into the future, both 

domestically and internationally. 

THE UNSPOILT SETTING OF MAS DU NOVI 

THE TASTING ROOM AT MAS DU NOVI 


TERRA VITIS: THE RISING 

STAR OF ENVIRONMENTAL 

ENDORSEMENTS 

BY CHRISTELLE ZAMORA 

PHOTOGRAPHS: 


©EPERRIN - ©DR 

From vineyard to bottle, Terra Vitis guarantees that traceability, organisation 

and environmental management run seamlessly on farms that apply 

sustainable techniques. The French certification scheme is increasingly 

gaining traction, primarily because it takes on board new social responsibility 

standards. 

TERRA VITIS IS A FRENCH CERTIFICATION SCHEME ENTIRELY DESIGNED FOR THE WINE INDUSTRY 

AND RECOGNISED BY THE MINISTRY OF AGRICULTURE AND FOOD 

LÉGENDES 


89

ENDORSEMENT 

TERRA VITIS 

WITH TERRA VITIS, WINEGROWERS ARE MINDFUL TO TAKE A LOW-INTERVENTION 

APPROACH IN THE VINEYARD 

Established in Beaujolais more than two decades 

ago, Terra Vitis blazed the trail for 

sustainability in the wine industry. At the time, 

neither social nor environmental pledges were 

of great interest to consumers. But already, visionary 

winegrowers in Beaujolais thought that 

protecting soil life, securing a better balance 

between farmland and natural surroundings, 

guaranteeing compliance with standards and 

protecting employees were missions that contributed, 

not only to the common good, but also to 

the vitality of their estates. 

The growers were in fact ahead of the Corporate 

Social Responsibility or CSR curve. A few months 

ago, Anne-Laure Ferroir took over at the helm of 

National Federation of the Terra Vitis Association. 

As a young energy engineer, she travelled 

extensively in China and the United States before 

taking a Master’s degree specialising in the 

wine trade and marketing at the Dijon business 

school in Burgundy. Her dissertation focused on 

producing wine in a more responsible and sustainable 

way. 

PROMINENT MEMBERS 

ANNE-LAURE FERROIR TOOK OVER MANAGEMENT OF THE NATIONAL TERRA VITIS 

FEDERATION A FEW MONTHS AGO. THE ENVIRONMENTAL CERTIFICATION SCHEME 

EMBRACES 7 FRENCH WINE REGIONS AND BOASTS 1,850 MEMBERS 

“I share the values advocated by the Terra Vitis 

association since its inception. Contrary to what 

people might think, the environmental impact of 

producing a bottle of wine sustainably is greater 

at the bottling stage than in the vineyard. Producing 

a bottle of wine requires raw materials (silica), 

and glass making furnaces operate at very 

high temperatures. Lastly, transporting bottles 

is also very energy intensive”, explains Ferroir. 

In France, 5% of vineyard area is Terra Vitis certified 

across 220 appellations and PGIs, totalling 

45,000 hectares. “Our members include some of 

the leading lights in the French wine industry, 

such as Château de Santenay, one of the most 

famous estates in the Côte de Beaune in Burgundy, 

Château Pape Clément (Pessac-Léognan 

Grand Cru Classé) and Château Montlabert, a 

Saint-Émilion Grand Cru”, she adds. 

Terra Vitis has coverage in seven wine regions, 


ENDORSEMENT 

TERRA VITIS 

CLAIRE CLAVEL FARMS A TERRA VITIS-CERTIFIED ESTATE IN GARD TO A HIGH STANDARD 

boasts 1,876 members and has established itself as a wine industry-focused certification 

system. “We have seen significant growth over the last five years, with 

a surge in Bordeaux and Languedoc, and smaller regions such as Jura becoming 

involved in the Terra Vitis scheme”, comments Ferroir. Other areas such as Savoy 

and Corsica have yet to be brought on board. Terra Vitis’ ambition for 2021 

and 2022 is to continue to help French vineyards make the switch to more responsible 

techniques; to enhance traceability on both the supply and marketing 

sides; and to improve awareness of the scheme among French and international 

distributors and consumers. 

A CERTIFICATION SCHEME GEARED TO WINEGROWING 

In the Gard area of southern France, Claire Clavel took over her 80-hectare 

family estate. With such an extensive area under vine, she did not consider 

going down the organic route but rather sustainable farming, securing Terra 

Vitis certification in 2010. Such are the standards required for the certification, 

however, that she has been able to start farming one of the estate’s blocks organically. 

“In practical terms, I have been able to apply plant protection products 

with greater sensitivity, treat my soils better so that there is a lot of life 

in them, and improve control over vineyard spraying. The amounts used are 

now so small that analyses show that my wines contain no pesticide residues 

in certain vintages”, she claims. Clavel is experimenting with a 15-hectare plot 

of land farmed organically and every day she can see how biodiversity is being 


91

CLAIRE CLAVEL 

BORDEAUX 

TRAVEL 


ENDORSEMENT 

TERRA VITIS 

protected. “Most importantly, I keep a waste 

register on the farm and in 2019, I was able to 

build on my achievements by securing HVE endorsement. 

I am proud of the progress I have 

made”, she says. Terra Vitis certification therefore 

guarantees consumers the wines have been 

grown sustainably. In fact, Terra Vitis is one of 

the major environmental endorsements used by 

the French wine industry, alongside the organic 

AB trust mark. “Terra Vitis is both a certification 

scheme and an association that supports 

its members as they seek recognition for good 

practice. The association gives them the resources 

to achieve this and produce wines more 

responsibly. This is an aspect that differentiates 

it from the AB endorsement. Terra Vitis imposes 

stringent quality standards”, says Ferroir, who 

also stresses that what distinguishes Terra Vitis 

from organic certifications is that it is specific to 

winegrowing. 

“HVE is an environmental standard that applies 

to farms in a more holistic way and is not specifically 

geared to viticulture. Organic certification 

was designed to apply to a number of products 

such as wine, cosmetics and foodstuffs. For the 

three extensive scopes of application that are 

environmental commitment, social responsibility 

and economic sustainability, Terra Vitis certifies 

compliance with stringent and measurable 

specifications that give structure to wine farms 

based on accountability and progress”, explains 

Ferroir. 

THE RAIMBAULT FAMILY – THE FATHER, SON AND GRANDDAUGHTER – 

IN THE ESTATE’S CELLAR 

PRIORITISING GOOD PRACTICE 

The scheme embraces the vineyards, plant protection 

strategy, biodiversity and the winery. 

Terra Vitis was a forerunner for waste management 

and recycling, because good waste management 

has an impact on water, air and soil 

pollution. Philippe Raimbault, who inherited 

his 17-hectare family estate in the Loire appellations 

of Sancerre, Pouilly-Fumé and Coteaux du 

Giennois offers an illustration of the scheme’s 

benefits. His vineyard management techniques 


93

PHILIPPE RAIMBAULT INHERITED 

HIS FAMILY’S 17-HECTARE ESTATE 

IN THE LOIRE APPELLATIONS OF 

SANCERRE, POUILLY-FUMÉ AND 

COTEAUX DU GIENNOIS 

BORDEAUX 

TRAVEL 


ENDORSEMENT 

TERRA VITIS 

were already bordering on organic. “Due to the weather, it is more challenging to 

produce organic wines in the Loire, so I looked for an alternative. Terra Vitis was a 

precious ally. The first year I complied with requirements and the second, in 2015, 

I was certified. My decision was motivated by my closeness to nature and desire 

to protect biodiversity. For me, it was an obvious choice”, he stresses. 

In the Tarn, father and son winegrowers Jean-Marie and Jérôme Bézios are 

co-owners of Domaine La Croix des Marchands, a 30-hectare estate located in 

Montans on the left bank of the Tarn. They also own Château Palvié (20 ha) on 

the right bank in Cahuzac-sur-Vère. “We farm both types of vineyard sites in the 

Gaillac appellation area and heirloom grape varieties. Our wines are fruity on 

the left bank, and more complex when grown on the gravelly soils of the right 

bank. For the past ten years, we have chosen to work with Terra Vitis because we 

want to produce wines from living soils. We have also been certified HVE for the 

past three years”, says Jérôme Bézios. 

The estate has worked hard on crucial environmental issues. “We promote Terra 

Vitis as much as possible so that our customers can understand our approach 

AT THE CELLAR DOOR, JÉRÔME BEZIOS IS MINDFUL TO PROMOTE THE TERRA VITIS 

ENDORSEMENT TO HIS CUSTOMERS WHEN HE SELLS HIS WINES DIRECT 


95

ENDORSEMENT 

TERRA VITIS 

THE VINEYARDS AT DOMAINE LA CROIX DES MARCHANDS, IN TARN 

both in the vineyard and the winery, where every year we give thought to reducing 

our sulphur inputs, both on the crop and during maturation. Dry materials 

are chosen based on their potential for recycling. We use recyclable cardboard 

and washable inks. We also favour locally-produced supplies. Our bottles, for example, 

are made in the Tarn region where the Ouvrière d’Albi glassmaking company 

has a strong commitment to the environment through its Ecova trust mark 

and uses recycled glass to make new bottles”, explains Jérôme Bézios. 

TRACEABILITY FROM VINEYARD TO WINERY 

At Château Thieuley in the Entre-deux-Mers region, winegrower Marie Courselle 

adds: “Terra Vitis has enabled me to put some good farming wisdom back into 

the techniques I use. I do what I say, and I say what I do. This total transparency 

regarding the way we work is a real bonus for consumers”. That’s because specifications 

for the Terra Vitis endorsement contain 77 inspection points. The inspections 

are carried out either by the local Terra Vitis association or by an independent, 

approved body, guaranteeing professionalism and transparency. Each 

winegrower is thus certified annually based on a defined inspection plan. “One 

person is dedicated to tracking every stage of production and the number of operations 

in the vineyard throughout the year. To become Terra Vitis winegrowers, 

we had to make a major effort to track everything”, explains Bézios. 

Information and idea sharing amongst winegrowers is pivotal, as is the support 

of the chambers of agriculture. “Since being certified, we have stopped working 

preventatively. Now, we only intervene in the vineyard when the quality of the 


ENDORSEMENT 

TERRA VITIS 

SYLVAIN PATURAUX IN HIS BEAUJOLAIS VINEYARDS, WHERE HE RECENTLY STARTED UP AS A WINEGROWER OVER THE HILLSIDES OF FLEURIE 

fruit is in jeopardy. Along with other winegrowers, we have given thought to 

installing bat roosts, which are very useful for protection against pests. We will 

install the roosts by next year. We are also sharing ideas about composts and soil 

fertilisation”, adds Bézios. 

Out in the vineyard, Terra Vitis encourages winegrowers to protect the environment 

by favouring natural processes, limiting vineyard interventions, producing 

healthy grapes, preserving biological diversity and the quality of the water, air 

and soil. “On top of this is the Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) aspect. As 

part of Terra Vitis certification, the social aspect is vital. Managing production, 

work, living conditions and employee training is essential. Social responsibility 

has been part of Terra Vitis specifications since its inception so that winegrowers 

can learn how to produce better, in a responsible manner, show respect for people 

and the environment while ensuring wine farms remain economically sustainable”, 

stresses Ferroir. 

In the Fleurie area of Beaujolais, Sylvain Paturaux’s estate was established in 2020. 

An engineer, he studied at Bordeaux Sciences-Agro and specialises in viticulture 

and oenology. After teaching in agricultural high schools and at the vocational 

centre for agricultural training and promotion, he founded Domaine des Deux 

Fontaines and was asked to become chairman of Terra Vitis for Beaujolais. “What 

appeals to me with Terra Vitis is the holistic approach to certification, at every 

stage, from planting the vineyards to bottling and then marketing the wines, in 

the interests of the economic and social wellbeing of employees. Also, Terra Vitis 

provides for training and therefore progress in farm management”, he explains. 

In Beaujolais, as in other wine regions, the number of members has been 

increasing in recent years. Anne-Laure Ferroir points out that 2% of Alsace 


97

ENDORSEMENT 

TERRA VITIS 

SYLVAIN PATURAUX HAS MADE A MAJOR COMMITMENT TO ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION 

THROUGH TERRA VITIS CERTIFICATION 

vineyards, 5% of the Côte des Bars, 8% of Beaujolais 

vineyards, 2.5% of Burgundy vineyards 

and 5% of Chablis vineyards have switched to 

Terra Vitis. Other regions deserve a mention 

too - 7% of Jura vineyards are certified Terra Vitis, 

but also 8% of Bordeaux, 11% of Languedoc, 

6% of Centre Loire and 2.6% of Provence. 

“As winegrowers, our discussions are currently 

focused on energy consumption, waste recovery, 

the social responsibility of the company as 

regards its employees, and then social responsibility 

on the supply side and marketing aspect 

with our suppliers and customers. Issues regarding 

a reduction in plant protection products 

have become part of our culture”, claims Sylvain 

Paturaux. As a new winegrower, he feels Terra 

Vitis is a way of raising awareness, because the 

scheme provides a framework, which is essential 

for planning a business, particularly from 

the outset. 

In his opinion, Terra Vitis offers a support solution 

for young winegrowers to help them 

manage their business more professionally. 

“Obviously, there is a cost involved, of around 

€2,000 in the first year, but it is such a time 

saver afterwards. We still have to work on the 

monetisation of Terra Vitis-labelled wines. It’s 

a very topical issue. Our task now is to better 

inform consumers about what we do. At local 

level, producers’ organisations are now asking 

us to help draw up specifications for appellation 

wines and INAO has realised that these 

must include environmental standards”, explains 

Paturaux. 

POPULAR OVERSEAS 

Anne-Laure Ferroir has made frequent trips to 

the United States and China and explains that 

access to some markets is contingent upon endorsements 

and environmental requirements. 

Currently, monetisation mostly involves organically 

certified wines. Conversely, Terra Vitis 

certification can open doors in the Nordic markets, 

such as Scandinavia, which prizes sustai- 


ENDORSEMENT 

TERRA VITIS 

nably certified wines. Terra Vitis-certified wines are also listed in the Finnish 

and Norwegian markets. Across the region, sustainable sourcing is already a 

major issue. 

Although Terra Vitis is less likely to yield higher prices in the American market, 

Quebec has already incorporated the endorsement because environmental 

issues and social responsibility are high on the agenda of the Quebec Liquor 

Board (SAQ), a provincial monopoly. Back in France, incorporation of environmental 

measures into production specifications for appellations is on the 

cards. “In the future, producers may be required to achieve a certain level of 

environmental certification. Terra Vitis could be a prerequisite for access to environmental 

endorsements such as HVE. The issue is currently being examined 

in the Médoc and Saint-Émilion. In 2020, some aspects of HVE specifications 

were incorporated in a very formal way. The Terra Vitis audit is more comprehensive 

because not only does it involve nearly eighty points from the vineyard 

to the winery, it also includes four HVE items. Terra Vitis certification is therefore 

more restrictive”, says Ferroir. 

DOMAINE DES DEUX FONTAINES AND ITS VINEYARDS BELONGING TO WINEGROWER 

SYLVAIN PATURAUX IN FLEURIE IN THE BEAUJOLAIS REGION 

CERTIFIED WINEGROWERS ENSURE THERE IS ALWAYS LIFE IN THE SOILS 


99

ENDORSEMENT 

TERRA VITIS 

This is an advantage internationally. “The significance of the Terra Vitis endorsement 

in export markets is increasing. Environmental trust marks are 

very much in demand. They help us stay credible, secure and formalise our environmental 

pledge. Even though there is still work to be done on promoting 

Terra Vitis-certified wines, the fact that the endorsement incorporates corporate 

social responsibility is a real advantage in export markets”, concludes Jérôme 

Bézios at Domaine La Croix des Marchands in Tarn. Just recently, at the 

Wine Paris trade fair, Les Grands Vins de Bordeaux, one of the first three Bordeaux 

wine shippers established in 1820, changed its name to Maison A. de 

Luze, after its founder Baron Alfred de Luze. The change coincides with the 

launch of an ambitious CSR programme, echoing the firm’s concern for the 

environment already demonstrated in Terra Vitis certification for some of its 

wines. From now on, the brand’s labels will be signed and its partner chateaux 

will display the De Luze name on the foil capsule and back label. “In 2019, 

we reviewed the way we market some of our red, white and rosé Bordeaux 

ranges. Across our sales channels, 375,000 bottles sport the Terra Vitis logo on 

the label. The certification complements other endorsements such as HVE or 

organic for our wines. Terra Vitis is meaningful to consumers and resonates 

with their sense of belonging in an era of ‘drinking local’ and environmental 

ethics. Terra Vitis opens up monopoly markets for us because the trust mark 

is well-known and recognised there. The Terra Vitis logo applies to our 2019 

vintages and 60% of our wines are HVE or Terra Vitis-certified. We believe 

that organic is not the only answer to environmental and social issues”, claims 

Xavier Migeot, CEO of Maison A. de Luze. 

MAISON A. DE LUZE PRESENTED ITS NEW CORPORATE IDENTITY 

AT WINE PARIS IN FEBRUARY 2022 


A ROAD TRIP 

THROUGH NAVARRE 

BY ISABELLE ESCANDE 

PHOTOGRAPHS: 


For many years, Navarre remained in the shadow of its prestigious neighbour, 

Rioja, but in more recent times it has made huge strides. Although it initially 

garnered a reputation for the quality of its rosés, it is now also praised for its 

increasingly high profile red wines. The decision to host the world Grenache 

competition in Olite, Navarre, this year, is no accident. 

KNOWN AS THE ‘WINE CATHEDRAL’, THE NEW WINERY 

AT BODEGA OTAZU IS A FEAT OF ARCHITECTURE 

LÉGENDES 


101

SPAIN 


The region’s flagship varietal, Grenache is not the only grape variety that 

thrives on Navarre soils. Alongside other native varieties, French cultivars 

like Merlot and Cabernet-Sauvignon have also acclimatised well here. The 

explanation for this varietal diversity is the range of landscapes and weather 

conditions. Located at the point where three different climates – Mediterranean, 

Atlantic and Continental – meet, the DO Navarre covers 10,200 hectares which 

extend from the Pyrenees to the Bardenas desert, via the fertile soils lining the 

banks of the river Ebro. 

The region produces not only rosés, but also whites, reds and even sparkling 

wines. Fresh, fruity wines reside comfortably alongside complex, well-structured 

offerings. If international fame came late to Navarre, it may well be because of 

this variety of styles. As Marcos Gorricho, who runs Bodegas Alconde, points 

out – in Navarre, “there is no single colour or flavour of wine, or exclusive grape 

variety. A uniform image is always useful for establishing an identity”. 

Navarre certainly doesn’t lack a backstory. Its winegrowing traditions date back 

to Roman times. Subsequently, the many monasteries dotted along the Camino 

de Santiago de Compostela, which now attract large numbers of pilgrims, 

became a focal point for winegrowing expertise. 

Pride in their winegrowing ancestry, however, has not stopped the region’s 

growers from innovating over the past few decades. In fact, their ability to 

reinvent themselves is what makes Navarre shine brightly in the global wine 

constellation. We travelled to meet four of these enterprising producers who 

explained their plans and faith in the future. 

OTAZU PALACE WHICH DATES BACK TO THE 16 TH CENTURY 


SPAIN 


BODEGA OTAZU, THE ART 

OF HUMAN CREATIVITY 

AN INSECT HOTEL PROMOTING BIODIVERSITY 

Located just 8 km from Pamplona, in the area 

that used to be at the heart of the Navarre region 

before phylloxera struck, is Bodega Otazu, 

Spain’s most northerly DOP-certified Pago 

estate. It would be wrong, though, to think that 

this is the property’s only defining feature – in 

fact, it has many. Its history dates back to the 

12th century and its micro-climate has a distinctive 

Atlantic influence which “produces brightly 

coloured wines and freshness on the palate”. 

It earned its Vino de Pago status – a special 

distinction for wines made to the highest standards 

– because of the unique characteristics of 

its terroir. 

The estate wines are made entirely from fruit 

grown on the property, which covers an extensive 

116 hectares. Divided into blocks that are farmed 

separately, they are the focal point of a number of 

projects designed to safeguard the environment. 

That’s because, as managing director Guillermo 

Penso explains, at Bodega Otazu they feel that 

the future of the wine industry depends more 

on this type of initiative targeting quality and 

sustainability than on any outside endorsement. 

Among its ongoing projects, the estate subscribes 

to the Vinasostenible scheme for sustainable 

winegrowing, in conjunction with the University 

of Navarre. The scheme is designed to incorporate 

farming solutions that foster a model 

showing greater respect for the ecosystem. 

The estate has also set itself a Zero Emissions 

target for 2023 and has launched a programme 

to recover native, pre-phylloxera grape varieties 

like Berués. 

In harmony with its natural surroundings, its 

terroir and its history, the Bodega is also an open 

space where art and vineyards seem to fuse with 

each other seamlessly. It is home to a sizeable 

collection of outdoor modern sculptures. For 

Penso, art and wine are both “expressions of 

culture and a tribute to human creativity”. For 

visitors, being able to indulge in this symbiotic 

experience offers the ultimate gratification. 

BODEGA OTAZU COMBINES HISTORIC MONUMENTS AND WORKS OF MODERN ART 


103

GUILLERMO PENSO, 

MANAGING DIRECTOR 

OF BODEGA OTAZU AND 

CHAIRMAN OF THE 

OTAZU FOUNDATION 

BORDEAUX 

TRAVEL 


SPAIN 


MARCOS GORRICHO WHO RUNS BODEGAS ALCONDE 

BODEGAS ALCONDE, BLAZING 

THE TRAIL FOR REGENERATIVE 

VITICULTURE 

Two years ago, Bodegas Alconde ventured into 

uncharted territory, launching a regenerative viticulture 

project that is now an integral part of its 

identity. The first five hectares dedicated to this 

innovative technique have now grown to 42. And 

according to the estate’s manager, Marcos Gorricho, 

this is not just an experiment, it’s a full-fledged 

ethos the winery now adheres to, and has already 

proven its value. 

Although adoption of the new techniques led to 

a slight decrease in output, “the rewards make 

the effort worthwhile”. Soil fertility has improved 

and even in terms of wine quality, the benefits are 

already tangible. It is still a little too soon to come 

to detailed conclusions, but as Gorricho explains, if 

the estate can help bolster biodiversity in the soils 

and combat climate change – at its own level – then 

the decision is obviously an easy one to make. 

Admittedly, the journey is not easy, because it runs 

counter to everything that has been done up until 

now, and implies a step change in the way nature and 

the work of the winegrower are viewed. The aim is 

not to control nature at all costs, or to eliminate it 

even, but on the contrary to restore life in the soils 

through natural mechanisms. The more life there 

is in the soil, the more guarantee there is of healthy 

plants and quality produce. Also, development 

of micro-organisms in the soil promotes natural 

carbon sinks – and CO2 is the main gas responsible 

for global warming – and also limits erosion. 

In a region increasingly affected by drought, 

having soils that absorb rainwater more efficiently 

becomes a vital necessity. So the estate has begun 

to introduce cover crops to encourage biodiversity 

and soil fertility, planting a variety of crops such as 

mustard, legumes and oats. 

“Balance is everything”. Promoting a symbiotic 

relationship between the different components 

that form a vineyard’s ecosystem ultimately 

reduces human intervention in the vineyards. 

And that is precisely what Bodegas Alconde, which 

has always favoured fruit integrity in its balanced, 

THE WINES ARE MADE IN CONCRETE TANKS, 

BUT ALCONDE WINES ARE MATURED IN OAK CASKS 


105

SPAIN 


aromatic wines, is aiming for. These authentically 

site-expressive wines are also the products of 

winegrowing know-how passed down from generation 

to generation. 

VIÑA MAGAÑA, 

A NAVARRE BENCHMARK 

JUAN MAGAÑA RUIZ, FOUNDER OF BODEGAS 

VIÑA MAGAÑA 

CASTILLO DE MONJARDÍN IS LOCATED AT 600 METRES ABOVE SEA LEVEL 

Viña Magaña wines can be seen in Michelin-starred 

restaurants around the world and during banquets 

hosted by the Spanish royal family. Enjoyed by illustrious 

personalities like the Dalai Lama, they have 

successfully garnered a reputation that has travelled 

well beyond Spanish borders. The bodega, which is 

home to some of Spain’s oldest Merlot vines, has 

established itself as a Navarre benchmark. 

The story began in 1972, in a way that might be 

described as picaresque. Determined to produce “a 

new, different and surprising wine”, Juan Magaña 

embarked on a mission to return to his home 

region, Navarre, to plant grape varieties from 

Bordeaux. This was a pretty tall order because at 

the time, this was forbidden and the young Magaña 

had to smuggle his Merlot and Cabernet-Sauvignon 

vines into the country. Added to this was the fact 

that virtually no-one would have taken a gamble on 

the arid, poor though mineral-rich land that he had 

set his heart on. 

Ultimately, over time his decision was vindicated. 

The present-day estate extends over 100 hectares 

of vines and boasts modern facilities designed by 

the famous Navarre architect Rafael Moneo, along 

with an extensive cellar housing around 1,000 

French oak barrels. The original Merlot and Cabernet-Sauvignon 

wines are still an integral part of 

the estate but other grape varieties are now showcased. 

Experimental crops have also been added in 

a bid to resurrect native varieties. Throughout its 

history, the estate has constantly focused on incremental 

progress. Every November, the finest new 

releases are presented at the Carrousel du Louvre in 

Paris and Viña Magaña wines are always included 

in the selection. No other Navarre bodega is invited, 

whispers Magaña, and very few Spanish estates 

take part. 


SPAIN 


CASTILLO DE MONJARDIN, A TASTE FOR INNOVATION 

Our journey through Navarre ends with the Castillo de Monjardin winery, and 

what better place to stop, just a stone’s throw away from the Camino de Santiago. 

In fact, it was one of the first wineries in Spain to open to the public. 

It was founded in 1988 by husband and wife Sonia Olano and Victor del Villar who 

had decided, right from the outset, to make it their mission to produce wines that 

were different. “We succesfully wrought changes in areas that seemed to be cast in 

stone in the wine inustry”, explains Olano. They pioneered many different aspects 

of winegrowing and were among the first on the Iberian Peninsula to harvest by 

night and produce Chardonnay fermented and matured in barrels. 

Their vineyards are located 600 metres above sea level in a cool area which promotes 

acidity in the grapes and allows them to “mature the wines delicately in new oak 

barrels to extend their longevity and enrich their palate”. Whilst Chardonnay and 

Pinot noir thrive at high elevations, other grape varieties have been planted at slightly 

lower altitudes in the valley, explains Olano. The bodega produces a distinctively 

broad-ranging selection of wines, and its portfolio even includes two sparkling wines. 

Despite the fact that its reputation is now well-established, its founders continue 

to innovate. So what is their next project? “We have just retrieved some old, traditionally 

farmed Grenache vines and we think they will produce some very interesting 

wine”. We can certainly vouch for that. 

WINEMAKER VICTOR DEL VILLAR IS THE SON OF THE FOUNDER 

OF CASTILLO DE MONJARDÍN 


107

“MA ROUMANIE CONTÉE” 

TALES OF ROMANIAN 

WINE 

BY JULIA SCAVO DIPWSET 

PHOTOGRAPHS: 


Romania is home to one of the oldest wine growing cultures in Europe, predating 

ancient Dacia, shaped by the Romans, the monasteries and subsequently 

influenced by the French. It now has a clear focus on quality and harmonisation 

with European standards. 

THE CASTLE AND THE CHURCH ON THE ESTATE AT CRAMA JIDVEI 


ROMANIA 

NEW GENERATION 

CORNEL TUDOR OF DOMENIUL ARISTITEI SHARING HIS VISION 

DOMENIUL ARISTIŢEI, THE VISIONARY 

This tiny four-hectare winery is located in the Dealu Mare PDO in Muntenia and more 

specifically in its sub-designation Valea Călugărească. “The Valley of the monks”, a nod 

to the monastic influence in the area, is attested by documents dating back to the 15 th 

and 16 th centuries, also naming Valea Nicovani – the village where the estate is situated. 

The valley was well known as a residential area by the end of the 19th century when 

the nobility, ministers and businessmen owned land and manors here, including Ion 

Bujoiu. His heirs took up ownership after 1989 and eventually sold it to the present 

owners in 2013. 

In this westernmost part of the Dealu Mare, the soils are mainly composed of red clay 

rich in iron oxide with some marl and reddish sand. Here, the continental influence 

is more pronounced than in the rest of the PDO, with fewer mild influences from the 

Black Sea. Owner Bogdan Dumitrescu has decided to focus on international grape 

varieties, except for Fetească neagră and has given carte blanche to his young winemaker 

Cristian Tudor to put his signature style on every single detail at the estate, 

including the labels. 

Their most prominent brand is “Vizionar” whose name aims to encapsulate the owner´s 

visionary spirit. He spent 5 years, from 2014 to 2019, building everything from scratch. 

With the outbreak of Covid in 2020, he kept pushing the envelope in his boutique 

winery to fulfil his vision of an idyllic setting where vines and lavender fields mingle, 

where stories from the past and ultramodern technology combine. He strongly believes 

that Dealu Mare can also offer surprising white wines despite its reputation for reds, 

which at Domeniul Aristiței show extraction and concentration, a plush texture, soft 


109

ROMANIA 


acidities and luscious oak maturation to complement 

both the structure and the ripe fruit, like the 2019 

Merlot “Vizionar”. 

CRAMA BASILESCU, 

THE WINE OF LITTLE PARIS 

THE WINERY AT CRAMA BASILESCU 

MATURATION IN BOTTLES 

The estate acts as a bridge between the bright and 

modern present and the company’s glorious past, 

when Nicolae Basilescu, the dean of the Bucharest 

Law Faculty created a winery for sparkling wine in 

the capital, spending his own money, plus some 

credit, and 11 years from 1910 to 1921. He built the 

facilities from the ground up, ultimately gaining 

a listing for his wines in the most famous restaurant 

in Little Paris: “Casa Capşa”. He even entered 

into a joint-venture with Champagne producer St. 

Marceaux & Co and left a prosperous business to 

his son, Aristide, chairman of the Economy and 

Political Science faculty in Bucharest. After being 

confiscated by the Communists, the name was lost 

until 2002 when heir Nicole Basilescu was given 

back the manor in Urlați, the base-wine production 

area. Present-day owners Ilie Buican and 

Sofia Dana took over the estate in 2008. 

They now own 60 ha in Urlați, on brownish-red 

clay with iron oxide, marl and red sand in a 

sun-filled continental part of the Carpathian piedmont 

which is particularly famous for red wines. 

The remaining 40 ha are situated in Pietroasa on 

limestone with shell fossils, shallow soil on a rich 

calcium carbonate bedrock, where whites and 

aromatic grapes reach the pinnacle of freshness 

and aromatic vibrancy. 

With wines ranging from €4 to 20 and average 

production of 250,000 bottles, this medium-sized 

winery is above all famous for the plush style of its 

Fetească neagră “Ingeri din Micul Paris”1, a pure 

treat with plummy characters tinged with hints of 

liquorice and a generous fleshy feel accompanied 

by plump tannins. This Amarone-ish profile also 

appears, though in a more understated way, in the 

iconic “Golem” but with ethereal, minty vibrancy, 

layers of chocolate and Christmas spices and 

superb freshness with dusty tannins. 


ROMANIA 


THE ICONIC ESTATE, 

A TASTE FOR MEDALS SINCE 1892 

THE 850 OAK BARRELS IN THE BARREL CELLAR 

With over 250 hectares of vines in Dealu Mare 

and Dobrogea, The Iconic Estate, which is part of 

the Alexandrion Group, has built state-of-the-art 

production facilities in Tohani. It also owns 

warehousing in Ploieşti, together with Rhein & CIE 

Azuga 1892, the oldest traditional method sparkling 

wine company in Romania, official supplier to the 

Royal House since 1904 and King Ferdinand’s coronation 

wine. 

Focusing mainly on Dealu Mare PDO, within the 

Muntenia Hills wine region, The Iconic Estate fully 

explores the potential of this “realm of red wines”, 

also crafting incredibly fresh white wines for the area 

and elegant sparklings from both Romanian and 

international grape varieties. The remarkable quality 

of these sparkling wines has been recognised since 

1906, when they obtained the highest distinction at 

“The Romanian General Exhibition”. 

The region´s warm summers are followed by fairly 

long, mild autumns. This favours slow and thorough 

ripening of the grapes during a long growing season 

with low rainfall, sunny days, and significant diurnal 

shift. The vines are mainly situated on Sarmatian 

limestone including marine fossils, clay, sandstone 

and deposits of fine sand. 

The winery located in Tohani is one of the most 

prominent in the Dealu Mare region, with cuttingedge 

winemaking facilities and storage capacities, 

including 850 oak barriques. The temperature-controlled 

warehousing facilities in Ploieşti 

offer underground storage for 1 million bottles, with 

ultramodern bottling lines for still and sparkling 

wines. 

With over 25 years’ experience, Lorena Deaconu 

Stoian is the chief winemaker at The Iconic Estate 

Winery, managing and supervising the production 

processes from the vineyard to the bottled still and 

sparkling wines. Her proficiency is encapsulated 

in the clean, precise wines, from the easy-drinking 

and varietal-driven “La Umbra” wines up to the top 

brands. The food-friendly Byzantium Rosé is juicy 

and textured, imbued with spices and blossomy 

notes, while “Prahova Valley” Fetească Regală offers 

LORENA DEACONU STOIAN TAKING CARE OF HER GRAPES AT THE ICONIC ESTATE 


111

LORENA DEACONU STOIAN, ONE OF 

THE FEW FEMALE SPARKLING WINE 

CELLARMASTERS IN ROMANIA 

a rounded palate, with a dense mouthfeel and tropical hints. The iconic “Hyperion” 

brand has recently been extended to other varieties in addition to the initial Fetească 

neagră and Cabernet-Sauvignon. It offers one of the most pristine expressions of a dry, 

gastronomic, dense and complex Tămâioasa Românească Muscat. 

LORENA DEACONU STOIAN, THE LADY BEHIND THE 

MAGIC SPARKLE OF RHEIN & CIE AZUGA 1892 

Before she took over the winemaking reins of The Iconic Estate, she was manager and 

chief winemaker for Halewood Cellars Romania, production director for Domeniul 

Coroanei Segarcea, and winemaker and head of red wine production and the brandy 

department at Murfatlar Winery. In some respects, Lorena fully represents the tremendous 

post-Communist boom within the Romanian wine industry. 

She enrolled for the degree course at the Faculty of Horticulture at the University of 

Agricultural Sciences in Bucharest, specialising in oenology, in 1989, concurrently with 

the fall of the Communist Bloc. She graduated in 1994 and was among the first Romanians 

to be trained in various latitudes in France, Chile and the USA. 

From the outset, her research focused on crafting the purest, flawless wines with 

precise varietal definition, giving her the perfect base for meticulous oak maturation 

or traditional method wine production. Lorena admits that during harvest time she 

moves into the apartment specially built on the first floor of the cellar at Tohani. I 

remember that before entering the Alexandrion Group, she used to bring her own 

mattress and sleep next to the vats. She even dreams of wine and bubbles as a mother 

would of her own children. 


ROMANIA 


CLAUDIU NECȘULESCU, OWNER OF CRAMA JIDVEI 

Lorena is also one of the few female cellar masters 

to craft traditional method sparkling wines in 

Romania. This was the fulfilment of a dream and 

lengthy collaboration with the Champagne Oenology 

Research Institute. Under her management, 

the oldest sparkling wine house in Romania, Rhein 

& CIE Azuga 1892 improved the quality of its wines 

and will soon launch some exciting new cuvées using 

indigenous grape varieties. 

In terms of winemaking style, she is inspired by 

reductive Champagnes such as Laurent Perrier Rosé, 

Dom Pérignon and Ruinart, minimising oxygen 

contact to the extreme in the stainless-steel-fermented 

base wines. She has imbued her sparkling 

wines with a fresher style, continuously striving to 

reduce dosage, creating more delicate nuances for 

the Rhein Extra Rosé Pinot noir, and releasing wines 

with longer lees ageing for the coming years. 

THE VINEYARDS AT CRAMA TĂUNI 

CRAMA JIDVEI, IN THE REALM 

OF WHITE WINES 

The Târnave area is situated on the plateaus set in 

the heart of the Transylvanian region, in the “Weinland”. 

This is attested by a map from the 1200s where 

the village of Seiden – present-day Jidvei – was also 

featured. 

Built upon the remains of the communist I.A.S2 

founded in 1949, the company was privatised in 

1999. Father and son Liviu and Claudiu Necşulescu 

have tirelessly and rapidly built up the business. 

Crama Jidvei also prides itself on its Bethlen Haller 

and Sânmicluş castles. The vines, however, extend 

beyond the boundaries of these two proprieties, 

with almost 2,400ha planted along the two Târnava 

rivers in a cool climate, the only one located in the 

B zone in Romania. Southern-facing slopes and the 

hydrographic basin mitigate the weather patterns 

and allow the white and aromatic grape varieties 

to ripen slowly. The only noticeable red grape here 

is Pinot noir, used for rosés and sparklings. Crama 

Jidvei is also home to the largest unbroken block of 

Sauvignon blanc in Europe. 

A huge investment programme produced 4 state-ofthe-art 

wineries in Jidvei, Tăuni, Blaj and Bălcaciu 


113

CASTEL BETHLEN-HALLER 

IOAN BUIA, 

THE SPARKLING WINE 

CELLARMASTER 

AT CRAMA JIDVEI 

with impressive capacities of 35 million litres. 90% of the wines are sold under the 

Târnave-Jidvei PDO, embracing multiple price points and showing consistent quality. 

The estate is also renowned for traditional method sparkling wines and brandy – Vinars 

produced at the Bălcaciu winery. 

The wines are clean, with good varietal definition. Their vibrancy is preserved 

through cutting-edge temperature-controlled winemaking techniques, enhancing 

positive reduction and aromatic thiols. The “Clasic” Fetească Regală offers excellent 

value for money. The “Mysterium” range rolls out sophisticated blends boasting 

youthful freshness, while the top “Owner´s Choice” range is a tribute to Mr. Necşulescu´s 

daughters. “Ana” is one of the most varietally driven Sauvignon blanc wines 

in Romania. It shows European characters, with the herbal touch of Styria but the 

polished texture of a Pouilly Fumé, while “Maria” aims to please enthusiasts of Alsace 

Pinot gris with tropical, mellow candied fruits, a dense palate with a gourmet texture 

and a phenolic backbone. 


ROMANIA 


VIA VITICOLA, IN THE OLDEST VITICULTURAL 

PART OF DOBROGEA 

Via Viticola is situated in the oldest attested viticultural area in the Dobrogea 

region - Sarica-Niculițel, now proudly sporting a PDO. Although ancient references 

date back to the Aegyssus fortress in Tulcea and Noviodunum in Isaccea, 

the property’s recent history starts in 1991 when the land was privatised from the 

Communist I.A.S based on the extensive enlargement of the G.A.S3 founded in 

1958. After passing through various hands, it was purchased by the present-day 

holding company Vintruvian Estates. Currently, 383 ha are planted with vines, 

complemented by grapes purchased from partner growers over 400 ha. 

The soil is mainly loess in the area, with limestone veins. It has high alkalinity, 

and excellent permeability, preserving water reserves deep below the surface and 

counterbalancing low rainfall. This combines with northern exposures, refreshing 

winds and the moderating effect of the Danube. Its delta and neighbouring Letea 

forest create a mild meso-climate with surprising conditions for white grapes such 

as the area’s flagship Aligoté, complemented by Chardonnay, Sauvignon blanc, 

Rhine Riesling, Fetească albă, Pinot gris, Muscat Ottonel, Fetească Regală or, more 

naturally, for red grapes such as Fetească neagră, Petit Verdot, Cabernet-Sauvignon, 

Pinot noir, Merlot and Syrah. Due to the weather conditions, Pinot noir and 

Syrah are only used for the rosé blends. 

“Caii de la Letea” Vol. II and “Princeps” are among the winery’s top brands, targeting 

primarily the hospitality industry. The Princeps limited edition Aligoté Reserva 

shows both precise varietal definition and surprising potential, due to its vibrant 

acidity, its complexity and the support afforded by oak maturation. The Rosé Vol. 

II is intense with a blossomy veil recalling peony and a fleshy core of spicy fruits, 

gaining layers of complexity over a year in the bottle. Finally, the “Quintessence 

Reserva” red blend is incredibly fresh, ethereal, and polished with savoury finegrain 

tannins and proficient oak maturation. 


115

ROMANIA 


VINARTE 1 - CASTEL BOLOVANU, 

WHERE CABERNET-SAUVIGNON 

IS KING 

TASTING WINES AT VINARTE 

The first plantings seem to date back to 1894 when 

a Frenchman experimented both in Drăgăşani and 

Sâmbureşti, especially with Cabernet-Sauvignon, 

which thrived particularly in the latter. Between 

the World Wars, various plantings followed and the 

cellar was built, then launched when the Soviet army 

withdrew from Romania, as the event was celebrated 

with wines from Sâmbureşti. 

During Communism, the cellar became a bottle 

warehouse as part of the state farm4. Vinarte privatised 

60ha for red grapes, refurbishing the cellar 

within the original architectural structure, which 

fortunately was built for red winemaking. 

Iustin Urucu, the head winemaker, arrived with the 

first crate of grapes harvested in 1999 and has continued 

working under the new ownership of Tim 

Brockman since 2018. 

The soil is mainly thick, rich clay, but the top of the 

hills is poorer and thinner with more stones5. The 

grape varieties are planted according to their adaptability 

to the soils with 70-75% Cabernet-Sauvignon, 

but also Merlot over 6ha, Cabernet Franc (3ha), and 

local specialties Negru de Drăgăşani and Novac 

(0.5ha each), planted in 2007 as an experiment. The 

winery also owns an experimental 6-ha plot of different 

varieties and rootstocks, complemented by last 

year´s plantings of 9 ha of white grapes. 

With very good thermal regulation helped by 

the clayish soils and the protection afforded by 

the Olt River, the area is not affected by low rainfall 

of around 600 mm. There is no issue with 

drought, thanks to the high proportion of humus 

that prevents run-off and allows very good water 

storage. However, this maximises the attention paid 

to lowering production, both through strict pruning 

and green harvesting. 

“Soare” is the top, single-vineyard brand from 4 small 

blocks - Platou Doneşti, Amfiteatru, Nuc and Spate 

Crama – vinted in premium Bordeaux style with oak 

maturation. It is one of the few Romanian wines able 

to offer vertical tastings down to 1999, my last one 

going back to 2015. 


ROMANIA 


2001 was an exceptional vintage, so were 2008, 

2009, 2011, 2013, just like the last three vintages 

2018, 2019, 2020, as Iustin assured me during our 

ProViRo Winelover Romania tour last August. With 

a ripe attack and juicy mouthfeel imbued with fleshy 

fresh fruit, the structure of “Soare” is based upon a 

holy trinity of elevated but balanced parameters. The 

second label, Castel Bolovanu, is a good introduction 

to Vinarte´s world. 

VINARTE 2 - CASTEL STÂRMINA, 

VINARTE’S ALTER EGO 

The same group of investors who privatised Castel 

Bolovanu also purchased what would become Castel 

Stârmina in 1998. The 160 ha are situated in the 

Mehedinți PDO, Stârmina sub-designation, near to 

the Danube where the hillside vines benefit from a 

Mediterranean influence from the Adriatic. 

The modern winery and wine tourism facilities were 

launched in 2009. The story continued after 2018 with 

the same businessman, Tim Brockman, purchasing 

both Vinarte estates, while head winemaker Iustin 

Urucu remained in charge of production. 

While Castel Bolovanu mainly focuses on red wines, 

with recent white plantings, Castel Stârmina has 

prided itself on both colours since the beginning. The 

flagship wine here is the long-lived Prince Mircea 

Merlot, with a fleshy core, vibrant fruit mingling 

with fine oak influence and a firm but integrated 

tannic backbone. The Fetească neagră offers a 

surprising off-dry expression packed with ripe fruit 

and balsamic scents while the “Between Danube 

and Sun”6 blend (Cabernet Sauvignon and Fetească 

neagră) combines the serious structure of the former 

with the lush fruit of the latter. 

IUSTIN URUCU, THE ICONIC WINEMAKER AT BOTH VINARTE PROPERTIES 

CRAMA BECIUL DOMNESC, THE 

CELLARS OF STEPHEN THE GREAT 

Crama Beciul Domnesc is part of Vincon Romania, 

one of the largest producers of wine, spirits 

and vinegar in the country. Founded in 1949, 

Vincon Romania was privatised in 1999 with 


117

ROMANIA 


THE ANGHEL FAMILY AT DOMENIUL COROANEI SEGARCEA 

Luchi Georgescu the majority shareholder and 

company president ever since. The company owns 

1,400 hectares of vines in the Odobeşti, Coteşti, 

Panciu and Huşi PDOs, with huge facilities including 

wineries, industrial sites for packaging and bottling 

wine, spirits and vinegar, and warehouses. One of the 

latter – Beciul Domnesc, the royal cellars dating back 

to Stephan the Great7, is part of the cultural heritage 

of Romania with a collection of 100,000 bottles. It 

proudly inspired the name to the present-day winery. 

The company also owns historic distillation facilities 

in Focşani with Charente-type pot stills and storage 

capacity for ageing Vinars Brandy. Vrancea - Coteşti, 

Odobeşti and Panciu are the only double-distilled 

and matured Vinars DOCs in Romania. 

With a large portfolio of grape varieties planted, 

among which are Fetească alba, Fetească Regală, 

Sauvignon blanc, Rhine Riesling, Muscat Ottonel, 

Tamâioasa Românească, Merlot, Cabernet-Sauvignon, 

Pinot noir and Fetească neagră, the winery 

has a vast range encompassing over 18 brands priced 

from €2 to 10. There are therefore wines to cover all 

consumer segments on the domestic and export 

markets, mainly Germany, Spain, Ireland, Austria, 

Italy and the United Kingdom. 

DOMENIUL COROANEI 

SEGARCEA, WINE FOR A KING 

THE STATE-OF-THE-ART WINERY AT DOMENIUL COROANEI SEGARCEA 

Segarcea comes from the Latin “seges”- or agrarian 

field - and “arcesitus” meaning exotic, foreign. 

It clearly harks back to the Roman origins of this 

coveted land. Its fertile fields were mentioned for 

winegrowing throughout the Middle Ages and naturally 

prompted the Romanian Royal House of Hohenzollern-Sigmaringen 

to include them in the Royal 

Estates in 1884. Vineyard plantings were re-established 

with the help of French ampelographer Georges 

Couderc after phylloxera and the cellar was built on 

four levels, which was pioneering for the time. It still 

represents the heart of the present-day winery which 

has been extended to over 1 hectare. 

On 10 May 2002, the Romanian monarchy´s day, the 

vineyard and the winery were purchased from the 

Romanian State by the Anghel family, the current 


ROMANIA 


GABRIEL BERCEA AT CRAMA GABAI SHARING HIS PASSION 

owners. Starting in 2004, an extensive investment 

programme has been undertaken to restructure 

the entire vineyard and rebuild a state-of-the-art 

winery using the latest technology in vine growing 

and winemaking. The estate’s 300 ha were entirely 

replanted with clones from selected varieties, 

supplied by nurseries in Italy and France. 

With the help of French consultants and after becoming 

appointed Purveyor to the Romanian Royal 

House, the estate launched its top ranges – “Principesa 

Margareta” and “Minima Moralia” - in 2011 

and 2012 while the “Marama” brand was dedicated 

to Romanian grapes in 2019. These include the 

aromatic Tămâioasa Românească, a dry musky 

wine with an incredibly fresh palate for a Muscat. 

The French pedigree imparted by consultant Ombaline 

Pages shines through with grapes like Viognier, 

which tends to be leaner and crispier than in the 

South of France, on similar latitudes. Reds are cherished 

in this southern area with its warm climate, 

offering up jammy fruit expression combined with 

moderate freshness and elegant, appealing texture 

like the “Vardo” Fetească neagră. 

STELUTA BERCEA, THE LADY 

BEHIND CRAMA GABAI 

CRAMA GABAI, IN THE NAME 

OF THE GRANDFATHER 

A young, boutique estate born in the aftermath 

of the collapse of the former leader in Dobrogea – 

Murfatlar Winery - Crama Gabai is situated in one of 

the easternmost parts of the PDO Murfatlar, in the 

village of Valu lui Traian. Despite a name that harks 

back to traditions going back to Trajan´s conquests, 

the cellar was founded in 2014 as a tribute to the 

owner´s grandfather named Gabai. Gabriel Bercea, 

the current owner is also the estate’s winemaker, 

crafting wines over 3 ha from varieties such as 

Chardonnay, Fetească albă, Muscat Ottonel, Italian 

Riesling, Fetească neagră, Pinot noir, Merlot and 

Cabernet-Sauvignon. 

Finding Chardonnay, Muscat Ottonel, Italian 

Riesling or Pinot noir might come as a surprise in 

this warm continental climate, considered as a CII 

zone with torrid summers, mild winters and long 

autumns mitigated by the influence of the Black 


119

GABRIEL BERCEA, 

OWNER AND WINEMAKER 

AT CRAMA GABAI 

BORDEAUX 

TRAVEL 


ROMANIA 


Sea. They have been part of the landscape since the 

first experiments by Gh. Nicoleanu and V. Brezeanu 

in 1907, continued by the Research Institute of 

Murfatlar in 1927 and wineries still believe in their 

potential despite the global climate change. 

Surprisingly, the white wines are lean, with 

mouth-watering energy and zesty crispness like the 

“Miraz” Alb blend, while the Chardonnay interlaces 

an invigorating acid structure with creamy but not 

overpowering oak maturation. The “Miraz” Rosé is 

easy- going and fresh with nice herbal aromatics. 

Gabriel Bercea is experimenting with different 

blends for his rosé cuvées, aiming to produce palatable 

wines in this warm area. 

The reds are the estate’s forte and include the fleshy 

Fetească neagră with a fairly fresh, firm frame and 

plush texture, or the vertical, typical Cabernet-Sauvignon. 

The blend brings together the fleshy core 

of the former and the tannic structure of the latter 

variety, mingling ripe fruit and balsamic scents 

with masterful oak influence, all bound by the lush 

mouthfeel instilled by the Merlot. 

TASTING WITH PAOLO MENNINI AT CRAMA MENNINI 

AND BRUN SCAVO ON THE PROVIRO TOUR WINELOVER ROMANIA 

PAOLO MENNINI AND HIS POMACE BRANDY 

AT CRAMA MENNINI 

CRAMA MENNINI, PAOLO´S DREAM 

Italy’s Paolo Mennini has spent the last 20 years 

in Romania, first doing business in industry. His 

Romanian associate just happened to work at the 

Research and Development Institute for Viticulture 

and Oenology in Drăgăşani and advised him to 

purchase a farm with 120 ha of vines, most of them 

abandoned or in bad condition. 70 ha have been 

restructured since 2006, allowing the winery to come 

on-stream for 2014, its first vintage. In addition to 

these half red-half white vineyards, Paolo owns up to 

300 ha of land allowing him to also plant cereals and 

orchards, mainly plum trees. 

The winery, whose name changed from Tenuta Colibaşi 

in 2015, produces 60,000 litres of wine from 

grapes including white Tămâioasă Românească, 

Muscat Ottonel, Fetească albă, Fetească Regală, 

Crâmpoşie Selecționată, Sauvignon blanc, and red 

Negru de Drăgăşani, Cabernet-Sauvignon, Merlot 

and Burgund Mare. The latter is Paolo´s pride and 

joy and he explained to us during our ProVirRo 


121

ROMANIA 


SILVIU TRASCA, THE GRAPE GROWER 

AT CRAMA OPRISOR 

Winelover Romania tour, that he is the only one to 

craft Blaufränkisch in the area, purchasing the last 

existing grafts from the Drăgăşani Institute. The 

wines are mainly sold to the hospitality industry and 

despite his commercial links with foreign countries, 

few of the wines are exported. 

Paolo fell in love with the local area and his partner, 

Luminița, but held onto his Tuscan roots through the 

consultancy of Italian oenologist Stefano Tofanelli. 

His wines recall his native country and region. The 

white wines are simple and approachable, whilst the 

reds are firm with a serious tannic bite. They pair 

with game, as Paolo is fond of hunting, another tradition 

he bought from Tuscany, where red rules. His 

musky, semi-sweet sparkler is a quaffer and ranks 

between an Asti and a Prosecco, with a fresher style. 

BARRELS AT CRAMA OPRISOR 

CRAMA OPRIŞOR, 

INNERMOST OLTENIA 

WINEMAKER VERONICA GHIORGHIU AT CRAMA OPRISOR 

In the mid-1990s, Reh Kendermann, a very 

prominent German importer-exporter, started collaborating 

with various Romanian producers. Aiming 

to select and import Romanian wines, the company 

quickly realised it was easier to purchase land and 

build their own winemaking facilities. Hence, the 

Carl Reh Trading Company was set up in Mehedinți, 

in the Oltenia region in 1994, and eventually became 

Carl Reh Winery in 1998. 

My family originated in Oprişor, owning vines in 

Golul Drîncei, and took me many times there as 

a child for various stages of work in the vineyard. 

1996 was our last harvest before selling to Carl Reh. 

I am therefore proud to be writing this article while 

partnering with my husband Bruno Scavo in co-authoring 

a book about Oltenia, as part of the ProViRo 

Winelover Romania project. 

The few plots belonging to my ancestors were part 

of a natural amphitheatre covering over 250 ha on 

both sides of the Drîncei creek. They were wholly 

subsumed into the Carl Reh Winery by 2000, with 

the purchase of Crama Oprişor. Channelling production 

both towards the export and domestic markets, 

the winery has innovated from the entry-level and 

bag-in-box wines through to the top iconic labels like 


ROMANIA 


“Smerenie”, “Erotikon”, the “Paleologu Case”, “Ispita” 

and “Ezoterik”. 

In a bid to provide a solid core of wines for local 

consumption, besides the already famous “La Cetate” 

brand – the Citadel, a whole collection inspired by 

the local spirit of innermost Oltenia soon appeared 

on shelves. They act as a perpetual dialogue between 

head winemaker Liviu Grigorica and the metaphors, 

traditions and artistic spirit of the region captured 

in every drop of his wines. These are highlighted by 

various artists on the labels. 

The estate is situated in a favourable meso-climate 

in southern Oltenia, in the South-West of Romania. 

Golul Drîncei is one of the 5 additional geographical 

designations that can complement the Mehedinți 

PDO and one of the country’s southernmost (44th 

parallel). The climate is moderately continental, 

tempered by Adriatic nuances, while the rich reddish-brown 

soils are suitable for planting a number of 

grape varieties. 

The area is perfectly suited for red wines, some of 

which mature in the estate’s 600 oak barrels. One of 

them is the firm, well-crafted, age-worthy La Cetate 

Feteasca neagra. Surprisingly crisp, easy-drinking 

wines are marketed under the “Caloian” label, such 

as the “Zinfandel Alb” or the Pinot Grigio, with its 

almost Italian accent. “Jiana” and “Drăgaica” take 

their name from local pagan fairies and offer up an 

enchanting fruit and food-friendly structure. 

OANA BELU, THE OWNER, AND DANIEL ZOTTU, 

THE BRAND AMBASSADOR AND CONSULTANT AT DOMENIILE OSTROV 

DOMENIILE OSTROV, 

REVIVING THE ROMAN PAST 

Domeniile Ostrov is located in an area steeped in 

history, dating back to the times of the Roman wars 

in Dacia (around 105 A.D.). As an ancient frontier 

point, protected by the Castrum Durostorum, it aims 

to revive the vine growing traditions that had always 

characterised the area. When brother and sister 

Horia Culcescu and Oana Camelia Belu took over 

the business in 2001, the facilities inherited from the 

former Communist I.A.S were nothing but “industrial 

archaeological installations”, as they tend to call them. 

After huge investments and massive replanting 

over more than 900 ha, the first bottled vintage was 


123

ROMANIA 


DANIEL ZOTTU DURING A TASTING SESSION AT DOMENIILE OSTROV 

released for sale in 2008. The estate now owns 1,023 

ha, plus 400 ha of table grapes – a highly esteemed 

tradition in the area – and the same hectareage 

of orchards. 

The rolling hills along the right bank of the Danube 

enjoy a warm climate with mild influences from the 

Black Sea, and good water reserves from the winter 

snow, but without the harsh frost. 

The 2 modern cellars - Ostrov and Lipnița - have 

a capacity of 20 million bottles, though current 

production is 5 million and includes both PDO Oltina 

and PGI Terasele Dunării. Crafted with a New World 

style, the wines range from €2 to 10 ex- cellar, from 

entry-level “Vinăria Ostrov” bottlings through to 

the top hospitality brand “Legio”. A small amount is 

exported, mostly to China, Japan, Canada, Poland, 

Belgium and Germany. 

Angel Leon Miguel, the Chilean winemaker who 

trained in the Napa Valley and New Zealand, runs 

production, crafting and blending wines from 17 

international and indigenous grapes. Besides the 

regional classics, the winery surprisingly owns some 

experimental exotic varieties. Brand ambassador and 

wine consultant Daniel Zottu created “Legio” wines, 

blending local and international grapes with nuance 

added by French, American, Romanian and Slavonian 

barrels to enhance complexity and potential. 

The red blend is plummy and imbued with spices and 

violet blossom notes, showing layers of ripe fruit and 

a generous texture to wrap up the firm tannins. 

Many readers will undoubtedly be unfamiliar with 

Romania, not just as a wine producer but also as 

a country. At Gilbert & Gaillard, we were curious 

to discover the potential of Romanian wines and 

offer readers some insight into this traditional wine 

producing country, its numerous native grape varieties 

and array of estates combining sense of place 

with their own unique personalities. 

Notes: 1- “Angels in Little Paris”, 2- State-owned enterprise. 3- Stateowned 

house. 4- “Combinat de vinificație de la Sâmbureşti”. 5- “Bolovanu” 

literally means “big pebble”. 6- „Intre Dunăre şi Soare“. 7- Stephen 

the Great (1433-1504) was the Prince of Moldavia (1457-1504) and a famous 

figure in fighting the Ottoman Empire. 

Discover our selection of Romanian wines on page 133 and for those keen to know more about this fascinating country, 

read the full report on our website www.gilbertgaillard.com 


GEENA DAVIS: 

“I DIDN’T WAIT TO MEET A MAN 

TO FIND OUT HOW TO UNCORK 

A GOOD BOTTLE OF WINE!” 

BY FRANK ROUSSEAU, 

OUR CORRESPONDENT 

IN THE UNITED STATES 

PHOTOGRAPHS: 

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED 

American actress Geena Davis has long been an advocate for greater and more 

diverse representation of women in the film and entertainment industries. The 

founder and chair of the Geena Davis Institute on Gender in Media, she offers 

awareness-raising programmes within the studios themselves. This is a longterm 

educational mission, as Hollywood is still very much a male preserve. 

But when it comes to uncorking a good bottle of wine off the set, this champion 

archer does not need a manly hand to help out... 

Having often starred as “action-women”, when did you 

realise that a woman was not destined to spend her life in 

the kitchen while men enjoy good wines? 

It was my aunt who made me realise this. In my opinion, she was ahead of her 

time. At a very young age, she freed herself from the shackles of men. How? 

By staying single and doing what she wanted to do, when she wanted to do it, 

with whom she wanted to do it. She was quite a character! She used to say to me: 

“When I go to a play, I don’t need a Prince Charming to accompany me, because I 

always come home after midnight anyway and I know how to drive my carriage 

myself! And if the carriage turns into a pumpkin, I can fix it!” She had a huge 

influence on me. She clearly awakened me to these issues. Her motto was: “If a 

man can do something, then I can do it too!” So I didn’t wait to meet a man to 

find out how to uncork a good bottle of wine! 

What do you like about wine? 

The endless variety it offers. Unless you taste an “industrial” wine, each growth, 

each flavour, each mouthfeel is unique! In fact, I often put wine in my cooking 

– it definitely adds that little something extra. I don’t cook much. But when I 

do cook, I don’t do things by half measures. For Thanksgiving and Christmas, I 

buy the best products and the best wines. As I am a perfectionist, it can take me 

four days to prepare a memorable meal! Now you see why I prefer to order out! 


125

STARS 

& WINE 

How much can you spend on a good 

wine? 

Just because you spend a lot of money doesn’t 

mean you’ll always get an outstanding wine. 

Admittedly, this is often true, but you shouldn’t 

generalise! I have found an infallible way of avoiding 

making mistakes. I ask the wine merchants 

what they personally drink for special occasions. I 

trust them. And to make it clear that I don’t want 

to be given bad advice, I tell them that if the wine 

doesn’t live up to my expectations, I’ll ask for a 

full refund! Just kidding... 

So what does Geena Davis going to a 

wine shop look like? 

GEENA DAVIS WITH FRANK ROUSSEAU 

I must admit, I do get a little baffled by all those 

appellations. Château whatsit, winery thingummy, 

label so-and-so. You can’t make heads 

or tails of it! I am not what you would call an 

expert. For years, I relied more on the packaging 

than on the contents. I used to think: “If the label 

is slightly faded, it must be good stuff”. Until I 

realised that sometimes – often in fact – this was 

pure marketing. I’m lucky to have friends, both 

male and female, who have always been extremely 

polite when I’ve given them a bottle or a case of 

poor quality wine! 

Where, around the world, have you 

enjoyed the best wines? 

In California during the Napa Valley Film Festival 

(NVFF) which takes place every year in November. 

You can see films and in between screenings meet 

the local winegrowers and taste their wines! It’s a 

very sociable event. Very enjoyable. Red carpet in 

the evening and red at noon, on the table. Cabernet-Sauvignon 

that is! 


CONTACT 

DETAILS 

LOIRE VALLEY – Pages 10 – 25 

• Domaine Benoît Rocher: 

Tel. + 33 2 41 54 30 32 - 

www.benoitrocher.fr 

• Domaine du Haut Fresne: 

Tel. + 33 2 40 98 26 79 - 

www.renou-freres.com 

• Clos de l’Abbaye: 

Tel. + 33 2 47 97 76 30 

• Domaine Les Pins Pitault-Landry: 

Tel. + 33 2 47 97 47 91 - 

www.domainelespins.fr 

• Cave de l’Union des Vignerons de 

Saint-Pourçain: 

Tel. + 33 4 70 45 42 82 - 

www.cave-saintpourcain.fr 

• Domaine Roger et Didier 

Raimbault: Tel. + 33 2 48 79 32 87 - 

www.raimbault-sancerre.com 

• Domaine du Fondis: 

Tel. + 33 2 47 97 78 58 - 

www.domainedufondis.net 

• Domaine des Hauts de Sanziers: 

Tel. + 33 2 41 52 26 75 - 

www.leshautsdesanziers.fr 

• Domaine des Bonneveaux: 

Tel. + 33 2 41 52 94 91 - 

www.domainedesbonneveaux.com 

• Domaine Joël Delaunay: 

Tel. + 33 02 54 71 45 69 - 

www.joeldelaunay.com 

• Domaine Charbonnier: 

Tel. + 33 2 54 75 49 29 - 

www.domainecharbonnier.com 

• Château de La Preuille: 

Tel. + 33 2 51 46 32 32 - 

chateaudelapreuille@gmail.com 

HONG-KONG – Page 26 

• Pinewood Wine Limited: 

Tel. +852 2873 0098 - 

www.pinewoodwine.com 

SPAIN – Pages 28 – 39 

• D.O. Bages – Abadal: 

Tel. +34 93 874 35 11 - 

https://abadal.net 

• D.O. Terra Alta – Altavins: 

Tel. +34 977 43 05 96 - 

www.altavins.com 

• D.O.Q. Priorat – Buil & Giné: 

Tel. +34 977 83 98 10 - 

https://builgine.com 

• D.O. Montsant – Celler de 

Capçanes: Tel. +34 977 178 319 - 

www.cellercapcanes.com 

• D.O. Penedés – Mont Rubí: 

Tel. +34 93 897 90 66 - 

https://montrubi.com 

ITALY – Pages 40 – 49 

• Anna Maria Abbona: 

Tel. + Fax +39 0173 79 72 28 - 

www.annamariabbona.it 

• Camilla Lunelli, Ferrari Trento: 

Tel. +39 0461 972 311 - 

www.ferraritrento.com/en 

• Marina Cvetic and Miriam Lee 

Masciarelli, Abruzzo: 

Tel. +39 0871 85241 - 

www.masciarelli.it/en 

• Sabrina Tedeschi, F.lli Tedeschi: 

Tel. +39 045 7701487 - 

www.tedeschiwines.com 

• Elisa Dilavanzo, Maeli wines: 

Tel. +39 0429 538144 - 

https://maeliwine.com 

• Giulia & Camilla Perini, Cantine 4 

Valli: Tel. +39 0523 59621 - 

http://cantinequattrovalli. 

fpwinegroup.it 

• Francesca Moretti, Terra Moretti 

Vino Group: 

https://terramorettivino.com 

• Chiara Lungarotti, Lungatori: 

Tel. +39 075 988661 - 

https://lungarotti.it/eng 

SOUTH AFRICA – Pages 50 – 59 

• Beyerskloof: Tel. +27 21 865 2135 - 

www.beyerskloof.co.za 

• Diemersfontein: 

Tel. +27 21 864 5050 - 

www.diemersfontein.co.za 

• Durbanville Hills: Tel. +27 21 558 

1300 - www.durbanvillehills.co.za 

• Flagstone: Tel. +27 21 852 5052 - 

www.flagstonewines.com 

• Kanonkop: Tel. +27 21 884 4656 - 

www.kanonkop.co.za 

• Man Vintners: Tel. +27 21 874 1134 - 

www.manwines.com 

• Neethlingshof: 

Tel. +27 21 883 8988 - 

www.neethlingshof.co.za 

• Rickety Bridge: Tel. +27 21 876 2129 - 

www.ricketybridge.com 

• L’Avenir: Tel. +27 21 889 5001 - 

www.lavenirestate.co.za 

• Bellevue: Tel. +27 21 865 2055 - 

www.bellevue.co.za 

• Groot Constantia: 

Tel: +27 21 794-5128 - 

www.grootconstantia.co.za 

ALSACE – Pages 60 – 69 

• Cave Vinicole Hunawihr: 

Tel. + 33 3 89 73 61 67 - 

www.cave-hunawihr.com 

• Maison Cattin: 

Tel. + 33 3 89 49 30 21 - 

www.cattin.fr 

• Cave Vinicole d’Orschwiller: 

Tel. + 33 3 88 92 09 87 - 

www.cave-orschwiller.fr 

• Domaine Armand Gilg: 

Tel. + 33 3 88 08 92 76 - 

www.domaine-gilg.com 

• Famille Zaepffel: 

Tel. +33 3 88 85 55 90 - 

www.famillezaepffel.com 

• Vins Joseph Freudenreich & Fils: 

Tel. + 33 3 89 41 36 87 - 

www.joseph-freudenreich.fr 

• Domaine Laurent Vogt: 

Tel. + 33 3 88 38 81 28 - 

www.domaine-vogt.com 

• Maison Willy Gisselbrecht: 

Tel : + 33 3 88 92 41 02 - 

www.vins-gisselbrecht.com 

• Domaine Jérôme Meyer: 

Tel. + 33 6 25 78 37 17 - 

www.vins-alsace-meyer.fr 

BURGUNDY – Pages 70 – 80 

• Domaine de Vauroux: 

Tel. +33 3 86 42 10 37 - 

www.domaine-de-vauroux.com 

• Domaine Boussard: 

Tel. +33 9 62 62 65 87 - 

https://www.domaine-boussardchablis.fr 

• Domaine Persenot Gérard: 

Tel. +33 3 86 53 61 46 

• Cave de Mazenay: 

Tel. +33 3 85 49 67 19 - 

www.cavedemazenay.com 

• Maison Kerlann: 

Tel. +33 3 80 26 59 68 - 

https://herve-kerlann.com 

• Baudouin Millet: 

Tel. +33 3 86 75 92 56 

https://www.chablis-millet.com 

• Les Orfèvres du Vin: 

Tel. +33 85 34 54 24 - 

www.orfevresduvin.com 

LANGUEDOC – Pages 81 – 88 

• Domaine de Longueroche: 

Tel. +33 4 68 32 46 34 - 

longueroche.com 

• Wines and Brands: 

Tel. +33 9 62 62 54 48 - 

winesandbrands.com 

• Domaine la Boulandière: 

Tel. +33 6 82 11 19 15 - 

www.domainelaboulandiere.com 

• Mas du Novi: 

Tel. +33 4 67 24 07 32 - 

www.masdunovi.com 

TERRA VITIS – Pages 89 – 100 

• Terra Vitis - Fédération Nationale 

Terra Vitis: terravitis.com 

• Domaines La Croix des 

Marchands: Tel. + 33 5 63 57 19 71 - 

www.croix-des-marchands.fr 

• Domaine Claire Clavel: 

Tel. : 04 66 82 78 90 - 

www.domaineclavel.com 

• Domaine Philippe Raimbault: 

Tel. + 33 2 48 79 29 54 - 

www.philipperaimbault.fr 

• Domaine des Deux Fontaines: 

Tel. + 33 6 62 61 80 24 - 

www.domaine2fontaines.fr 

• Maison de Luze: 

Tel. +33 5 57 97 07 20 

SPAIN – Pages 101 – 107 

• Bodega Otazu: 

Tel. +34 948 329 200 - 

info@otazu.com 

• Bodegas Alconde: 

Tel. +34 948 530 058 - 

info@bodegasalconde.com 

• Viña Magaña: Tel. +34 948 850 034 - 

bodegas@vinamagana.com 

• Castillo de Monjardín: 

Tel. +34 948 537 412 - 

contacto@monjardin.es 

ROMANIA – Pages 108 – 124 

• Crama Basilescu: 

Tel. +40 244 271 053 - 

http://cramabasilescu.ro 

• Domeniul Aristitei: 

https://www.domeniularistitei.ro 

• Crama Jidvei: https://www.jidvei.ro 

• The Iconic Estate: 

Tel. +40 244 530 975 - 

https://theiconicestate.com 

• Via Viticola: www.viaviticola.ro 

• Vinarte: Tel. +40 733 040 050 - 

https://vinarte.ro 

• Crama Gabai: Tel. +40 755 14 04 92 - 

https://cramagabai.ro 

• Crama Menini: 

Tel. +40 725 581 238 - 

https://cramamennini.ro 

• Crama Oprisor: 

Tel. +40 374 620 891 - 

www.crama-oprisor.com 

• Domeniile Ostrov: 

Tel. +40 734 094 967 - 

https://domeniileostrov.ro 

• Domeniul Coroanei Segarcea: 

Tel. +40 251 210 516 - 

https://domeniulcoroanei.com 


127

PAGES 129 TO 138 

TOP WINES 

SOUTH AFRICA - ROMANIA- BURGUNDY - LOIRE VALLEY 

OUR SPRING SELECTION 

The best of SPRING 2022 

Our selection, tasted and rated by our tasting panel, is featured on pages 129 to 

138. As usual, we have chosen to present wines by country (SOUTH AFRICA, 

ROMANIA...), then by appellation in each region, with each company or chateau 

listed in alphabetical order, and finally by tasting scores in descending order. 


SOUTH AFRICA - PAARL 


SOUTH AFRICA 

Pinotage, the iconic local grape 

variety, is honoured in this issue 

with over 70 wines selected in our 

tastings at the start of the year. 

BREEDEKLOOF 

6+1 92/100 

D Pinotage 2019: Ruby brick. Mint and 

herbaceousness on the earthy nose. Red cherry 

and vanilla on the leathery and full palate. A 

matured wine, but still showing lots of youth. Drink 

through 2029. Excellent. 

Price: € 8 

https://sevenoaks.co.za/ 

Seven Oaks 

+27 836 390 405 

FLAGSTONE 92/100 

D Writer’s Block Pinotage 2019: Deep garnet. 

Blackberry fruit, red cherry and cigar box on the 

rich nose. Black forest cake, mulberry and smoky 

oak on the deep palate. Grippy and full on the 

complex and layered palate. This wine needs time 

to settle. Drink through 2029. 

Price: € 19.17 

http://www.flagstonewines.com 

Flagstone Winery 

+27 21 850 5880 

SEVEN OAKS 88/100 

D Pinotage Rosé Sahara 2021 

Price: € 3 

https://sevenoaks.co.za/ 

Seven Oaks 

+27 836 390 405 

CAPE TOWN 

GROOT PHESANTEKRAAL 85/100 

D Pinotage 2020 

Price: € 7 

http://www.grootphesantekraal,co.za 

Groot Phesantekraal 

+27 21 825 0060 

CAPE TOWN - CONSTANTIA 

GROOT CONSTANTIA 94/100 

D Pinotage 2019: Dark ruby. Black berry fruit 

and prunes on the rich nose. Full and rich on the 

palate with dark berry fruit and a grippy tannin on 

the finish. Elegant and refined, but complex and 

lively at the same time. An excellent wine. Drink 

through 2029. 

Price: € 16.57 

https://grootconstantia.co.za/ 

Groot Constantia 

+27 21 794 5128 

COASTAL REGION 

FRANCOIS VAN NIEKERK 93/100 

D Pinotage 2020: Deep garnet. Red berry 

fruit and hints of dark chocolate on the nose. Full, 

rich and dark on the palate. Black forrest cake, 

blueberry and a sour cherry note. Grippy and full 

on the finish with a slight rhubarb tartness. Made 

to age. Drink through 2030. 

Price: € 28.74 

https://www.francoisvanniekerk.co.za/ 

Francois van Niekerk Wines 

+27 82 067 6679 

BELLINGHAM 92/100 

D The Bernard Series Bush Vine Pinotage 

2018: Deep garnet. Smoky and toasty nose with 

some dark berry fruit. Palate is medium-to-full with 

ripe black fruit and leathery spice on the finish. 

A deep and dark wine with many layers. Drink 

through 2028. Made to age. 

http://www.dgb.co.za 

DGB (Pty) Ltd 

+27 21 870 4200 

DOOLHOF 91/100 

ORG D Dark Lady Pinotage 2021: Deep ruby. 

Dark berry and plum on the ripe nose. Toasty and 

smoky on the full palate with a ripe red berry note 

on the finish. Complex and layered. Drink through 

2028. 

Price: € 6.15 

http://doolhof.com 

Doolhof Wine Estate 

+27 21 873 6911 

RHEBOKSKLOOF 88/100 

D Flatrock Red 2019 

Price: € 4.50 

https://mooiplaas.co.za/ 

Rhebokskloof Estate 

+27 21 869 8386 

THREE PEAKS 88/100 


Price: € 3.47 

http://www.mountvernon.co.za 

Gravel Junction 

+27 21 875 5073 

DARLING 

CLOOF WINE ESTATE 90/100 

D Pinotage 2020: Deep ruby garnet. Dark fruit 

and toasty oak on the nose. Palate is dry and full 

with some hints of dried fruit and leather. Finish is 

dry and lengthy with some hints of red berry fruit 

from the nose. Will age well. Drink through 2028. 

Price: € 5 

http://www.cloof.co.za 

Cloof Wine Estate 

+27 22 492 2839 

DURBANVILLE 

COLLECTORS RESERVE 92/100 

D The Promenade Pinotage 2019: Deep 

ruby. Blackberry and chocolate nose with hints of 

vanilla. Fine and grainy tannins on a full and dry 

palate with sour cherry and cigar on the finish. A 

complex and rich wine with many payers. Drink 

through 2029. 

Price: € 8 

https://www.durbanvillehills.co.za/ 

Durbanville Hills 

+27 21 558 1300 

DURBANVILLE HILLS 87/100 


Price: € 4 

https://www.durbanvillehills.co.za/ 

Durbanville Hills 

+27 21 558 1300 

FRANSCHHOEK VALLEY 

RICKETY BRIDGE 92/100 

D Pinotage 2018: Deep garnet. Spicy, 

leathery nose with red cherry notes. Palate is rich 

and refined with a red berry note and cigar box 

on the finish. Soft and well integrated tannins on 

the aftertaste. Complex and layered. Drink through 

2028. 

Price: € 2.70 

http://www.ricketybridgewinery.com 

Rickety Bridge Winery 

+27 21 8762 129 

CHAMONIX 89/100 

D Pinotage Greywacke 2018 

Price: € 11.68 

http://www.chamonix.co.za 

Chamonix 

+27 21 876 8424 

LUTZVILLE VALLEY - KOEKENAAP 

LUTZVILLE CLASSIC 85/100 


Price: € 3.80 

http://www.lutzvillevineyards.com 

Cape Diamond Wines 

+27 27 217 1516 

PAARL 

LIEVLAND 91/100 

D Bushvine Pinotage 2020: Deep garnet. 

Smoky nose with hints of leather and forrest floor. 

Dark berry fruit and jam on the full palate with a 

smooth and elegant finish. Refined and complex. 

Drink through 2026. 

Price: € 9.32 

http://www.manwines.com 

Man Vintners (Pty) Ltd 

+27 21 861 7759 


129

SOUTH AFRICA - PAARL - VOOR PAARDEBERG 


SWEEPING VIEWS OVER DURBANVILLE HILLS WITH TABLE MOUNTAIN IN THE BACKGROUND 

RHEBOKSKLOOF 89/100 

D The Rhebok 2019 

Price: € 9.90 


Rhebokskloof Estate 

+27 21 869 8386 

NIEL JOUBERT 88/100 

D Estate Pinotage 2018 

Price: € 4 

http://www.nieljoubert.co.za 

Niel Joubert 

+27 22 492 3971 

PAARL - VOOR PAARDEBERG 

BOWWOOD 92/100 

D Pinotage 2018: Dark garnet. Red berry fruit, 

dark berry and liquorice on the nose. Palate is full 

and grippy with a rhubarb tartness followed by 

dark chocolate, prunes and jam. Full and rich on 

the complex finish. Made to age. Drink through 

2028. 

Price: € 20 

http://www.vondelingwines.co.za 

Vondeling Wines 

+27 21 869 8304 

PIEKENIERSKLOOF 

SANGIRO 88/100 


Price: € 32.06 

http://www.vinimark.co.za 

Vinimark 

+27 21 883 8043 

ROBERTSON 

ASHTON WINERY 89/100 

D Pinotage Reserve 2019 

Price: € 7 

https://www.ashtonwinery.com/ 

Ashton Winery 

+27 23 615 1135 

SIMONSBERG-STELLENBOSCH 

KANONKOP 95/100 

D Pinotage 2015: Deep garnet brick. 

Blackberry fruit and leathery spice on the rich 

nose. Palate is full and deep with dark berry fruit, 

leather and cigar box. A red cherry note follows 

on the long and refined aftertaste. Excellent. Cellar 

through 2030. 

Price: € 28.52 

http://www.kanonkop.co.za 

Kanonkop Wine Estate 

+27 21 8844 656 

KANONKOP 93/100 

D Black Label Pinotage 2019: Ruby garnet. 

Smoky and toasty nose with red cherry and spice. 

Leather and cigar on the refined palate with hints 

of dried fruit and sour cherry. A layered and 

complex wine that will age for many years. Drink 

through 2028. 

Price: € 116.41 

http://www.kanonkop.co.za 

Kanonkop Wine Estate 

+27 21 8844 656 

STELLENBOSCH 

BEYERSKLOOF 94/100 

D Diesel Pinotage 2019: Very dark garnet. 

Blackberry fruit, wine gums and dark cherry on the 

nose. Palate is rich, creamy and full with hints of 

smoky oak and cigar box. Grippy and layered on 

the complex finish. This wine is made to age. Drink 

through 2030. 

Price: € 60 

http://beyerskloof.co.za 

Beyerskloof 

+27 21 865 2135 

BEESLAAR 93/100 

D Pinotage 2019: Deep ruby garnet. Spice, 

vanilla and dark berry notes on the rich nose. Full 

palate with dark berry jam and leather. Fine and 

grainy tannins on the dry and lengthy finish. Drink 

through 2029. 

https://www.beeslaar.co.za/ 

Beeslaar Wines 

+27 84 255 8686 

BELLEVUE 93/100 

D The Reserve Collection Pinotage 2017: Dark 

garnet. Red cherry and liquorice on the nose. 

Tomato-leaf and spice on the palate with some 

hints of sour cherry. A complex and layered wine 

with a refined leathery note on the finish. Showing 

some maturity, but still lots of fruit and structure. 


Price: € 12.87 

https://bellevue.co.za/ 

Bellevue Estate 

+27 21 865 2055 


SOUTH AFRICA - SWARTLAND 


WARWICK 93/100 

D Three Cape Ladies 2017: Deep ruby. Leather 

and tomato-leaf nose with hints of red cherry. 

Complex and rich on the full palate with red berry 

fruit, herbaceousness and well integrated tannins. 

The finish is lengthy and layered. A refined wine 

that will keep for many years. Drink through 2027. 

Price: € 10.78 

http://www.warwickwine.com 

Warwick 

+27 21 884 4410 

L’AVENIR 92/100 

D Single Block Pinotage 2019: Dark ruby 

brick. Prunes and raisins on the subdued nose. Full 

and rich on the palate with some dark berry fruit 

and leather. Smooth and elegant on the full finish. 

A great wine that will age for a few more years. 

http://www.lavenirestate.co.za 

L’Avenir Estate 

+27 21 889 5001 

NEETHLINGSHOF 92/100 

D The Owl Post Pinotage 2020: Dark garnet. 

Smoky nose with dark berry fruit and jam. Full and 

rich on the palate with leather and spice. Elegant 

and refined with dark berry fruit and dried prunes 

on the finish. Made to age. Drink through 2029. 

Price: € 61.02 

http://www.neethlingshof.co.za 

Neethlingshof Wine Estate 

+27 21 889 5001 


D Houdamond Pinotage 2018: Ruby brick. 

Red cherry, violets and leathery spice on the nose. 

Sour cherry and strawberry on the mature palate, 

followed by leather and cigar box notes. Smooth 

and elegant on the layered finish. Great now, but 

close to it’s optimum. 



+27 21 865 2055 


D Pinotage 2018: Ruby red. Sweet red fruit 

and floral nose. Dark chocolate and sour cherry on 

the full and rich palate. Elegant and layered with 

ripe prune and raisins on the finish. Some hints of 

cigar box and toasty oak on the aftertaste. Drink 

through 2026. 

Price: € 7.72 



+27 21 865 2055 


D 1953 Pinotage 2018: Deep ruby garnet. 

Smoky and toasty nose with hints of tomato-leaf. 

Red berry fruit and leather on the complex and 

layered palate. Austere and rich with layers of 

leather, mint and a slight hint of hearbaceousness. 

Complex and refined on the aftertaste. Drink 

through 2025. 

Price: € 52.64 



+27 21 865 2055 


D Pinotage Reserve 2018: Deep garnet. 

Blackberry fruit and stewed fruit nose. Complex 

and layered palate with raisins and prunes on the 

finish. Elegant and smooth on the refined finish with 

layers of leather and spice. Drink through 2026. 

Price: € 5 


Beyerskloof 

+27 21 865 2135 


D Provenance Pinotage 2019: Deep ruby. 

Austere nose with hints of dried fruit and red 

cherry. Dry on the full palate with some hints of 

red cherry and leather. Rich and layered on the 

complex finish. Red cherry on the aftertaste. Drink 

through 2028. 

Price: € 10 



+27 21 889 5001 

STELLENBOSCH VINEYARDS 91/100 

D Bushvine Pinotage 2020: Deep garnet. 

Sweet red fruit and dark chocolate on the nose. 

Medium palate with red cherry fruit and dark 

berry fruit. Vanilla, leather and spice on the finish. 

Elegant and refined. Drink through 2026. 

Price: € 6.11 

http://www.stellenboschvineyards.co.za 

Stellenbosch Vineyards 

+27 21 881 3870 

HILL & DALE 90/100 

D Pinotage 2019: Ruby brick. Dried fruit and 

raisins on the subdued palate. Leather, spicee and 

dried fruit on the full, but mature palate. Fantastic 

wine, but maturing. Drink within 3 years. 

Price: € 19.32 



+27 218 838 988 

CHRISTOFFEL HAZENWINKEL 89/100 

D The Red Blend 2019 

http://www.hazendal.co.za 

Hazendal 

+27 21 903 5034 

WINEMAKERS RESERVE 89/100 


Price: € 14 


Beyerskloof 

+27 21 865 2135 

DORNIER 88/100 


Price: € 9.32 

http://www.dornier.co.za 

Dornier Wines 

+27 21 880 0557 

MOOIPLAAS 87/100 

D The Bean 2021 

Price: € 3.59 


Mooiplaas Wine Estate 

+27 21 200 7493 

LANZERAC 86/100 


Price: € 11 

http://www.lanzerac.co.za 

Lanzerac Wine Estate 

+27 21 887 1132 

NEETHLINGSHOF 86/100 

D Estate Pinotage 2021 

Price: € 32.90 



+27 21 887 1132 


D Horizon Pinotage 2020 

Price: € 6 



+27 21 889 5001 

AALDERING VINEYARDS 83/100 

D Lady M 2021 

Price: € 15.84 

http://www.aaldering.co.za 

Aaldering Vineyards 

+27 21 865 2495 

AALDERING 83/100 

D Pinotage Rosé 2021 

Price: € 15.84 

http://www.aaldering.co.za 

Aaldering Vineyards 

+27 21 865 2495 

BELLINGHAM 83/100 

D The Quintessential Couple 2018 

http://www.dgb.co.za 

DGB (Pty) Ltd 

+27 21 870 4200 

SWARTLAND 

SPICE ROUTE 92/100 

D Pinotage 2020: Deep garnet. Chocolate, 

vanilla and smoky toast on the perfumed nose. 

Rich, creamy and full on the palate with dark berry 

fruit and smooth tannins on the finish. Excellent. 


Price: € 8.12 

http://spiceroutewines.co.za 

Spice Route 

+27 21 863 2450 


131

SOUTH AFRICA - SWARTLAND - MALMESBURY 


SURVIVOR 92/100 

D Pinotage 2020: Very dark garnet. Dark 

chocolate and toast on the dark fruit nose. Palate 

is full and rich with dark fruit and leather on the 

finish. A complex and layered wine that will age 

for many years. Drink through 2030. 

Price: € 8.72 

http://www.overhex.com 

Overhex Wines 

+27 23 347 6838 



Price: € 8.72 


Overhex Wines 

+27 23 347 6838 

PAINTED WOLF WINES 87/100 

D Guillermo Pinotage 2019 

Price: € 14 

https://www.paintedwolfwines.com/ 

Painted Wolf Wines 

+27 21 863 2492 


D Pinotage Reserve 2019 

Price: € 23.25 


Overhex Wines 

+27 23 347 6838 

JOURNEY’S END 85/100 

D M&S Classics Pinotage 2021 

Price: € 4 

http://www.journeysend.co.za 

Journey’s End 

+27 21 858 1929 

SWARTLAND - MALMESBURY 

SWARTLAND 86/100 

D Idelia Cape Blend 2020 

Price: € 13 

http://www.swartlandwinery.co.za 

Swartland Winery 

+27 22 482 1134 

WELLINGTON 

CARPE DIEM 90/100 

D Pinotage 2020: Deep ruby. Chocolate and 

sweet red berry on the nose. Smooth and elegant 

palate with dry tannins with red cherry and dark 

berry fruit on the finish. Drink through 2027. 

Price: € 13 

http://www.diemersfontein.co.za 

Diemersfontein Wines 

+27 21 864 5050 

VAL DU CHARRON 90/100 

D Erasmus - Den Deen 2020: Dark ruby garnet. 

Dark berry fruit and red cherry on the nose. Full 

palate with hints of chocolate, red cherry and 

vanilla. Dry and grippy on the layered finish. Drink 

through 2028. 

Price: € 8.44 

http://www.vdcwines.com 

Val Du Charron Wines 

+27 21 873 1256 

WELLINGTON - LIMIETBERG 

DOOLHOF 85/100 

ORG D Single Vineyard Pinotage 2020 

Price: € 12.05 

http://doolhof.com 

Doolhof Wine Estate 

+27 21 873 6911 

WESTERN CAPE 


D Dragon Tree Cape Blend 2019: Deep 

garnet. Dark berry fruit and garnet on the ripe 

nose. Smoky, toasty and dark berry palate with a 

grainy and fine tannin on the rich finish. Complex 

and layered. Drink through 2029. 

Price: € 7.53 



+27 21 850 5880 

HER WINE COLLECTION 90/100 

D Pinotage 2020: Brick red. Red cherry and 

vanilla on the elegant nose. Soft and smooth on 

the palate with red berry notes and a grainy tannin 

on the finish. Refined. Drink through 2025. 

http://www.adamawines.co.za 

Adama Wines 

+27 21 864 1705 

LEOPARD’S LEAP 90/100 

D Special Edition Pinotage 2020: Deep ruby 

brick. Elegant nose with spice and vanilla. Palate 

is complex, rich and layered with some hints of 

dark berry fruit and toasty oak on the finish. Drink 

through 2028. 

Price: € 6 

http://www.leopards-leap.com 

Leopard’s Leap Family Vineyards 

+27 21 876 8002 

WARWICK 90/100 

D First Lady Pinotage 2019: Ruby brick. Spicy 

nose with tea-leaf, herbaceousness and red berry. 

Leather and spice on the palate with a red berry 

note on the finish. Fine and grainy tannins on the 

aftertaste. Drink through 2025. 

Price: € 6.34 

http://www.warwickwine.com 

Warwick 

+27 21 884 4410 

DIEMERSFONTEIN 89/100 


Price: € 8 



+27 21 864 5050 

BARISTA BLACK 88/100 


Price: € 8.73 


Vinimark 

+27 21 883 8043 


D Truth Tree Pinotage 2020 

Price: € 7.53 



+27 21 850 5880 



Price: € 3.50 


Beyerskloof 

+27 21 865 2135 

LEOPARD’S LEAP 87/100 


Price: € 4 

http://www.leopards-leap.com 

Leopard’s Leap Family Vineyards 

+27 21 876 8002 

DIEMERSFONTEIN 86/100 

D The Prodigy Pinotage 2020 

Price: € 5 



+27 21 864 5050 

BARISTA 85/100 


Price: € 5.24 


Vinimark 

+27 21 883 8043 

DU TOITSKLOOF 85/100 


http://www.dutoitskloof.co.za 

Du Toitskloof Wines 

+27 23 349 1601 

RICKETY BRIDGE 85/100 


Price: € 5 

http://www.ricketybridgewinery.com 

Rickety Bridge Winery 

+27 21 8762 129 

THE GRINDER 85/100 


Price: € 3.50 

http://www.grapegrinder.com 

The Grape Grinder 

+27 21 863 3943 

SARAH’S CREEK WINES 83/100 


Price: € 3 

http://sarahscreek.co.za 

Sarah’s Creek Wines 

+27 21 300 1731 


ROMANIA 


ROMANIA 

Discover a new European wine 

country through the selection of 

Romanian wines featured in this 

issue. Stay tuned for part two next 

summer. 

COTEȘTI 

SCEPTRUS 90/100 

D Fumé 2020: Brilliant light yellow with pale 

green reflections. Nose of flowers and white fruits 

with citrus and mango notes. Rounded, balanced 

palate with faint oaky accents. A style that would 

make the perfect match for poultry or fish in a 

sauce. 

Price: € 5.20 

https://beciuldomnesc.ro/ 

Beciul Domnesc 

+40 237 222 100 

SCEPTRUS 87/100 

D Cabernet Sauvignon & Fetasca Neagra & 

Merlot 

Price: € 5.20 



+40 237 222 100 

BECIUL DOMNESC 84/100 

D Grand Réserve Chardonnay 2019 

Price: € 4.80 



+40 237 222 100 

HUȘI 


D Riesling du Rhin - Demi Sec 

Price: € 3.50 



+40 237 222 100 

SIGILLUM MOLDAVIAE 86/100 

D Busuioaca de Bohotin - Demi Dulce 

Price: € 2.50 



+40 237 222 100 


D Feteasca Regala - Demi Sec 

Price: € 3.50 



+40 237 222 100 


D Grand Réserve Tamaiosa Romaneasca 

2018 

Price: € 4.80 



+40 237 222 100 

MEHEDINȚI 

DOMAINE VINARTE 89/100 

D Vinarte 2020 

Price: € 4.50 

http://www.vinarte.ro 

Domaine Vinarte 

+40 733 040 050 


D Castel Bolovanu - Cabernet Sauvignon 

2018 

Price: € 4.20 



+40 733 040 050 


D Castel Starmina - Feteasca Neagra 2020 

Price: € 3.50 



+40 733 040 050 


D Prince Mircea - Merlot Reserva 2019 

Price: € 8 



+40 733 040 050 

SÂMBUREŞTI 


D Soare - Cabernet Sauvignon 2018: Dark 

colour, bordering on black with faint mature 

highlights. Nose of dark fruits with graphite notes. 

Robust, powerful, rich palate offering up more of 

the same aromas. Very concentrated flavours with 

a long mineral, velvety finish. 

Price: € 14 



+40 733 040 050 

SEGARCEA 

DOMENIUL COROANEI 92/100 

D Minima Moralia Honor 2020: Light yellowgold. 

Racy nose combining white fruits, citrus, 

herbs and creamy and mineral touches. The 

palate is light yet concentrated, fresh and tense 

with complex perfumes. Exemplary precision. Off 

the well-trodden path. 

Price: € 17 

https://domeniulcoroanei.com/ 

Domeniul Coroanei Segarcea 

+40 755 067 102 

DOMENIUL COROANEI 89/100 

D Viognier 2020 

Price: € 8 

https://domeniulcoroanei.com/ 

Domeniul Coroanei Segarcea 

+40 755 067 102 

TASTING AMONG THE BARRELS IN THE VINARTE WINERY 


133

BURGUNDY - BOURGOGNE 


BURGUNDY 

Regional Burgundy, the first rung on 

the local wine ladder, offers topflight 

wines that sell for a song. We 

provide some insider information on 

where to find them. 

BOURGOGNE 

CHÂTEAU DE ROUGEON 92/100 

CONV D Ostréa 2018: Beautiful brilliant 

yellow-gold. Precise, distinctive nose with mineral 

and saline accents. The palate shows more of the 

same authentic aromatics with freshness, fat and 

faultless aromatic persistence. A very pure, terroirdriven 

wine. 

Price: € 11.90 

https://www.chateauderougeon.com/ 

Domaine Château de Rougeon 

+33 3 85 92 02 54 

DOMAINE DE ROCHEBIN 90/100 

CR D Clos Saint-Germain 2019: Light cherry 

with ruby-brown highlights. Nose of jammy wild 

berries with a spicy, smoky touch and nutmeg 

note. Structured, clear palate with polished tannins 

counterbalancing the generous fleshy fruitiness and 

stimulating tangy freshness in this racy wine. 

Price: € 13 

https://rochebin-vins.com/ 

Les Vins de Rochebin 

+33 3 85 33 33 37 

DOMAINE DE ROCHEBIN 90/100 

CR D La Cadole 2019: Light red with rubybrown 

tints. Nose of cherry jam, blackcurrant 

and raspberry with a smoky sensation and 

delicate undergrowth. Supportive aromas are in 

mid-evolution on the palate which shows noble 

fleshiness and refreshing acidity. Lovely hallmark 

Pinot characters. 

Price: € 15 

https://rochebin-vins.com/ 

Les Vins de Rochebin 

+33 3 85 33 33 37 

DOMAINE DU MONT VERRIER 90/100 

CR D Sainte Marthe 2019: Brilliant light gold. 

A mix of white fruits, dried fruits, mushrooms, 

white flowers and honey on the nose. Refreshing 

salinity on the palate and muscular body exuding 

generous flavours. Young, buttery finish for this topflight 

Burgundy. 

Price: € 11.50 

https://domaine-montverrier.com/ 

Domaine du Mont Verrier 

+33 4 74 67 42 84 

DOMAINE OLIVIER BOUSSARD 90/100 

D Les Vieilles Vignes 2018: Beautiful deep, 

young-looking ruby. Precise nose of red fruits with 

ripe morello cherry overtones. The palate shows 

greater complexity with accents of currants and 

also lovely weight. A very successful, moreish 

wine. 

Price: € 9 

http://www.domaine-boussard.com 

Domaine Boussard 

+33 9 62 62 65 87 

GÉRARD PERSENOT 90/100 

D Chardonnay 2020: Beautiful light yellow 

with pale green tints. Citrus and white fruits on 

the nose with menthol notes. Rounded, generous 

and very fine palate with creamy accents. Great 

balance with pleasant minerality on the finish. 

Drink with fish or poultry in a sauce. 

Gérard Persenot 

+33 3 86 53 61 46 

LES VIGNES DE SAINT GERMAIN 90/100 

D Vintage 2019: Light ruby-red with brilliant 

highlights. Nose of cherries with a touch of white 

pepper. Fleshy, fruity palate. A delicious wine with 

strong Burgundy tones. Stellar balance leaning 

towards freshness. Set aside for roast meats. 

Price: € 13 

http://www.vins-chateaupizay.com 

Vins de Pizay 

+33 4 74 66 26 10 

OLIVIER LEFLAIVE 90/100 

D Oncle Vincent 2016: Beautiful light gold 

with green tints. Delicate nose opening up after 

airing to toast and roasted coffee tones. The palate 

is delicate, lush and very well-balanced with a ripe 

array of aromas accented by lemon and vanilla. A 

wine for gourmet foods. 

http://www.olivier-leflaive.com 

Olivier Leflaive 

+33 3 80 21 37 65 

DOMAINE BADER-MIMEUR 89/100 

D Dessous les Mues 2019 

Price: € 16.90 

http://www.bader-mimeur.com 

Bader-Mimeur 

+33 3 80 21 30 22 

FRANÇOIS D’ALLAINES 89/100 

D Tête de Cuvée 2018 

Price: € 15 

http://www.dallaines.com 

François d’Allaines 

+33 3 85 49 90 16 

BAUDOUIN MILLET 88/100 

CR D Chardonnay 2020 

Price: € 11 

https://www.chablis-millet.com/ 

Baudouin Millet 

+33 3 86 75 92 56 

BLASON DE VAIR 88/100 

D Cuvée Clin d’Oeil 2019 

Price: € 12.50 

https://www.cavedemazenay.com/ 

Maison Marinot-Verdun 

+33 3 85 49 67 19 

CHÂTEAU DE CHAMP-RENARD 88/100 

D Chardonnay 2019 

Price: € 13.20 

Domaine de Champrenard 

+33 6 82 81 40 84 

CHÂTEAU DE LABORDE 88/100 

CR D Cuvée H Fût de Chêne 2018 

Price: € 14.75 

http://www.herve-kerlann.com 

Maison Kerlann 

+33 3 80 26 59 64 

CLOSERIE DES ALISIERS 88/100 


Price: € 7 

http://www.closeriedesalisiers.fr 

Maison Stéphane Brocard 

+33 3 80 52 07 71 

DOMAINE ARNAUD BAILLOT 88/100 

CR D La Montagne 2018 

Price: € 17 

H Beverage 

+33 6 20 02 62 16 

DOMAINE ARNAUD BAILLOT 88/100 

CR D Vintage 2018 

Price: € 15 

H Beverage 

+33 6 20 02 62 16 

DOMAINE DE LA FEUILLARDE 88/100 

CONV D Vintage 2019 

http://www.domaine-feuillarde.com 

Domaine de la Feuillarde 

+33 3 85 34 54 45 

DOMAINE PERRAUD CONV 88/100 

D Chardonnay 2019 Price: 

€ 9.50 

https://domaineperraud.fr/ 

Domaine Perraud 

+33 3 85 32 95 12 

DOMAINE VINCENT WENGIER 88/100 

D Vintage 2020 

Price: € 8.50 

https://www.chablis-wengier.fr/ 

Domaine Vincent Wengier 

+33 6 51 22 77 39 

BLASON DE BOURGOGNE 87/100 

D Pinot Noir 2019 

Union des Vignerons Associés des Monts de Bourgogne 

+33 3 80 25 01 05 

BLASON DE BOURGOGNE 87/100 


Union des Vignerons Associés des Monts de Bourgogne 

+33 3 80 25 01 05 


BURGUNDY - BOURGOGNE CÔTES DU COUCHOIS 


JEAN RENAUD 87/100 

D Vigne des Ducs 2018 

Price: € 10.20 

http://www.aegerter.fr 

Bourgognes Jean-Luc & Paul Aegerter 

+33 3 80 61 02 88 

LES SERINGAS 87/100 


Price: € 10 

http://www.chablisienne.com 

La Chablisienne 

+33 3 86 42 89 89 

OLIVIER TRICON 87/100 


Price: € 7 

http://www.olivier-tricon.fr 

Maison Tricon 

+33 3 86 42 10 37 

CAVE DE CHARNAY-LES-MACON 86/100 


Price: € 7.30 

http://www.orfevresduvin.com/ 

Les Orfèvres du vin 

+33 3 85 34 54 24 

DOMAINE CORINNE GUILLOT 86/100 

CR D Mon Rêve 2020 

Price: € 12 

Domaine Corinne Guillot 

+33 6 07 69 21 26 

DOMAINE DE VAUROUX 86/100 


http://www.domaine-de-vauroux.com 

Domaine de Vauroux 

+33 3 86 42 10 37 

DOMAINE JEAN-CLAUDE FRANÇOIS 86/100 


Price: € 6 

Compagnie Vinicole de Bourgogne 

+33 3 85 87 51 04 

LÉONCE BOCQUET 86/100 


http://www.patriarche.com 

Groupe Patriarche 

+33 3 80 24 53 75 

NAUDIN VARRAULT 86/100 

D Bourgogne Aligoté 2019 

Price: € 12 

http://www.veuveambal.com 

Veuve Ambal 

+33 3 80 25 01 70 

CAVE DES VIGNERONS DE BUXY 85/100 


http://www.vigneronsdebuxy.fr 

Cave des Vignerons de Buxy 

+33 3 85 92 03 03 

COMBE ST-JEAN 85/100 

D Gamay 2020 

http://www.badetclement.com 

Badet Clément & Co 

+33 3 80 61 46 31 

DOMAINE BOUHÉLIER 85/100 

CR D Cuvée En Chemin Km 19.4 

Price: € 9 

http://www.bouhelier.com 

Domaine Sylvain Bouhélier 

+33 3 80 81 95 97 

DOMAINE MICHEL GAYOT 85/100 

D Déclaration 2020 

http://www.mlc-vins.fr 

SAVDVF 

+33 3 80 22 29 90 

DOMAINE MONTERNOT 85/100 

CR D Les Jumeaux 2020 

Price: € 8 

http://www.domainemonternot.com 

Domaine Monternot 

+33 4 74 67 56 48 

MAISON LOUIS GIRARD 85/100 


Castel Frères - Saint Priest 

+33 4 72 23 36 30 

MAISON MAURICE GENTILHOMME 85/100 

D Gamay 2020 

http://www.francoismartenot.fr 

François Martenot 

+33 3 80 24 70 07 

SARL COSTE-CAUMARTIN 85/100 


Price: € 14.20 

Jérôme Sordet 

+33 3 80 22 45 04 

BOURGOGNE CÔTE D’OR 

DOMAINE COSTE-CAUMARTIN 90/100 

CR D Pinot Noir 2019: Brilliant light red with 

ruby tints. Nose of fresh wild strawberries and 

cherries with fine vanilla, smoky oak. Velvety palate 

with crisp fruit showing juicy, zippy exuberance. Its 

fine salinity, freshness and fine tannins hit all the 

right notes. 

Price: € 13.90 

http://www.costecaumartin.fr 

Domaine Coste-Caumartin 

+33 3 80 22 45 04 

DOMAINE COSTE-CAUMARTIN 90/100 

D Chardonnay 2019: Brilliant, deep gold. 

Delicate vanilla oak on the nose with white flower 

infusion, bush peach and almond notes. Ample, 

mellow fleshy feel, silky oak influence and very 

generous, persistent fruitiness. Up there in the big 

league. 

Price: € 13.90 

http://www.costecaumartin.fr 

Domaine Coste-Caumartin 

+33 3 80 22 45 04 

DOMAINE DU CLOS DES POULETTES 87/100 

CR D La Corvée au Prêtre 2020 

Price: € 12 

http://www.poulette.fr 

Domaine du Clos des Poulettes 

+33 6 88 77 07 72 

DOMAINE DU CLOS DES POULETTES 87/100 


Price: € 12 

http://www.poulette.fr 

Domaine du Clos des Poulettes 

+33 6 88 77 07 72 

BOURGOGNE CÔTES 

D’AUXERRE 

DOMAINE GOISOT ANNE ET ARNAUD 90/100 

CR D Cuvée du Manoir 2018: Cherry-red 

with dark ruby highlights. Smoky oak on the nose 

backed by jammy red berries. Ethereal texture 

on the palate, crunchy fruit, focused oakiness 

supporting the whole and tannins in the process of 

softening. Beautiful. 

Price: € 11 

http://www.bourgogne-goisot.com 

Domaine Goisot Anne et Arnaud 

+33 3 86 53 32 15 

DOMAINE GOISOT ANNE ET ARNAUD 90/100 

CR D Cuvée Héritage 2019: Brilliant yellowgold. 

Refined toasted vanilla oak on the nose 

with acacia honey, bush peach and citrus fruit 

notes. Ethereal texture on the palate which is 

delicately chewy. A wine showing great finesse 

and revealing an elegant flow of fruit and oak 

aromatics. 

Price: € 13 

http://www.bourgogne-goisot.com 

Domaine Goisot Anne et Arnaud 

+33 3 86 53 32 15 

BOURGOGNE CÔTES 

DU COUCHOIS 

CHÂTEAU DE COUCHES 88/100 

D Clos Marguerite - A la Folie 2019 

Price: € 12.80 

https://www.cavedemazenay.com/ 

Maison Marinot-Verdun 

+33 3 85 49 67 19 

For a detailed explanation of scores and 

wine colours and the meaning 

of symbols and abbreviations, refer 

to the instructions at the start 

of the book. 


135

LOIRE VALLEY - ANJOU 


LOIRE VALLEY 

The Loire provides an endless supply 

of great red wines for any selfrespecting 

wine enthusiast. If you 

don’t believe us, just read on! 

ANJOU 

DOMAINE DES GALLOIRES 89/100 

CR D 50 2018 

Price: € 9.40 

https://galloires.com/ 

Domaine des Galloires 

+33 2 40 98 20 10 

BENOÎT ROCHER 

ORG D Les Ronces 2019 Price: 

€ 9 

http://www.closeriedelapicardie.fr 

Rocher Benoît 

+33 2 41 54 30 32 

DOMAINE DES HAUTES BROSSE 


Price: € 6 

http://www.vignoblepin.com/ 

Domaine des Hautes Brosses 

+33 2 41 78 35 26 

88/100 

88/100 

DOMAINE DE LA GAUTERIE 86/100 


Price: € 5.60 

http://vignoble-de-la-gauterie.fr 

Domaine de la Gauterie 

+33 2 41 45 50 04 

DOMAINE DE LA MONTCELLIÈRE 86/100 


Price: € 4.30 

http://www.domainedelamontcelliere.com/ 

Domaine de la Montcellière 

+33 2 41 59 60 72 

DOMAINE DU HAUT FRESNE 86/100 


Price: € 5.20 

http://www.renou-freres.com/ 

Domaine du Haut Fresne 

+33 2 40 98 26 79 

ANJOU VILLAGES 

DOMAINE DES TROTTIÈRES 91/100 

CR D Faustina 2017: Beautiful deep, young 

red. Perky nose of red fruits, laden with freshness. 

The palate is beautifully chewy with lots of tension 

and impeccably showcased fruit. A ripe wine that 

is now perfectly ready to drink. 

Price: € 25 

http://domainedestrottieres.com 

Domaine des Trottières 

+33 2 41 54 14 10 

DOMAINE DES IRIS 87/100 


Price: € 2.95 

http://www.joseph-verdier.fr 

Joseph Verdier 

+33 2 41 40 22 50 

ANJOU VILLAGES BRISSAC 

CHÂTEAU DE BRISSAC 91/100 

D Virtute Tempore 2018: Deep red with ruby 

tints. Delicate smoky nose offering up a jammy 

forest fruit note and touch of noble herbs. This is a 

proud Brissac with self-assertive aromatic potential. 

Successful oak influence, trace of saline tannins 

and burgeoning fruit. Shows absolute respect for 

its origins. 

Price: € 14 

http://www.loire-proprietes.com/ 

Loire Propriétés 

+33 2 41 68 81 91 

DOMAINE LOIZEAU CLAIN 90/100 

CR D La Grande Chevalerie 2018: Very dark 

hue with purple-blue tints. Super ripe nose where 

fruit is entwined with oaky tones. The palate is 

generous and powerful with oak that still needs 

to mellow. A stylistic exercise that needs some 

cellaring time. 

Price: € 8.50 

http://www.domaineloizeauclain.com/ 

Domaine Loizeau Clain 

+33 2 41 91 29 79 

DOMAINE ROCHES DE FESLE 89/100 


Price: € 7 

http://www.chateaulavariere.com 

Orchidées Maison de Vin 

+33 2 41 91 22 64 

DOMAINE DE HAUTE PERCHE 88/100 


Price: € 8.95 

http://www.domainehauteperche.com 

Domaine de Haute Perche 

+33 2 41 57 75 65 

BOURGUEIL 

DOMAINE PITAULT LANDRY 91/100 

CR D La Loge Vieilles Vignes 2020: Dark 

crimson tinged with dark purple. Shy nose 

intermixing floral and fruity scents. Sleek, robust, 

rich palate combining delicious freshness, granular 

tannins that are still slightly disjointed and spicy, 

chalky aromas. Everything is clear. Superb. 

Price: € 7.90 

http://www.pitault-landry.fr 

Pitault Landry et Fils 

+33 2 47 94 47 91 

DUVAL VOISIN 89/100 


Price: € 6 

http://www.duvalvoisin.com 

SCEA Duval Voisin 

+33 2 47 96 95 91 

CLOS DE L’ABBAYE 88/100 

ORG D Vintage 2018 

Price: € 10 

https://www.vinbourgueil.com/domaines/clos-de-labbaye/ 

Clos de l’Abbaye 

+33 2 47 97 76 30 

LES BROCHOIRES 87/100 


Price: € 5 

http://www.domainemoncourt.fr/ 

SARL Jean Charles Moncourt 

+33 2 41 79 76 20 

CHEVERNY 

DOMAINE CHESNEAU 89/100 

D Prestige 2018 

Price: € 9.40 

http://www.chesneauetfils.fr 

Domaine Chesneau 

+33 2 54 20 20 15 

DOMAINE DE LA DÉSOUCHERIE 87/100 

CR D Concerto de la Désoucherie 2020 

Price: € 8.90 

http://www.christiantessier.com 

Domaine de la Désoucherie 

+33 2 54 79 90 08 

DOMAINE TÉVENOT 86/100 

D Les Perrières 2019 

Price: € 7 

http://www.vignobletevenot.com 

Domaine Tévenot 

+33 2 54 79 44 24 

CHINON 

DOMAINE DES 4 VENTS 91/100 

D Vieilles Vignes 2019: Deep purple-bluish hue. 

Young nose with mineral overtones. Very dense, 

full-bodied palate with a fairly upfront structure and 

aromas still in their infancy. An age-worthy wine 

still at the very beginning of its journey. 

Price: € 8 

Philippe Pion 

+33 2 47 93 46 79 

DOMAINE LA MASSONNIÈRE 91/100 

CR D Les Picasses 2019: Bright garnet. 

Expressive nose combining toast and smoke notes 

with a touch of peony and fruit undertones. Fleshy, 

ample, gratifying palate which is already unfurling 

its complex, soft aromatics with a delicate, natural 

mouthfeel. A beautiful, modern Chinon. 

Price: € 10 

La Massonnière 

+33 2 47 95 56 23 


LOIRE VALLEY - SAUMUR CHAMPIGNY 


ANGÉLIQUE LÉON 87/100 


Price: € 8.30 

http://www.leonchinon.fr 

Angélique Léon 

+33 2 47 58 92 70 

DOMAINE DA COSTA 


Price: € 6.50 

http://www.domainedacosta.fr 

Domaine da Costa 

+33 2 47 58 08 36 

COTEAUX DU GIENNOIS 

87/100 

DOMAINE MICHEL LANGLOIS 88/100 

CR D Champ Galant - Cuvée Prestige 2018 

Price: € 12.10 

http://www.domaine-langlois.fr 

Domaine Michel Langlois 

+33 3 86 28 06 52 

CÔTES DE LA CHARITÉ 

DOMAINE SERGE DAGUENEAU & FILLES 88/100 

D Les Montées - Pinot Noir 2019 

Price: € 12.50 

http://www.s-dagueneau-filles.fr 

Domaine Serge Dagueneau & Filles 

+33 3 86 39 11 18 

MENETOU-SALON 

ANTOINE DE LA FARGE 90/100 

D Vintage 2020: Light cherry-red tinged with 

ruby. A mix of spices, jammy red fruits and forest 

floor aromatics with humus on the nose. Supple 

palate boasting great overall balance with a core 

of crisp fruit where freshness prevails over the 

tannins. This is a charming Menetou. 

Price: € 10.50 

Domaine de l’Ermitage 

+33 6 64 74 02 58 

REUILLY 

DOMAINE DE REUILLY 85/100 

D Denis Jamin - Les Fossiles 2019 

Price: € 13 

http://www.denisjamin.com 

Domaine de Reuilly 

+33 2 54 49 35 54 

SAINT-NICOLAS-DE-BOURGUEIL 

L’ECLOSION 92/100 

ORG D Vieilles Vignes 2019: Deep crimson 

with purple-blue tints. Subtle nose combining red 

fruits, jam, fine spices and peony. Beautiful tense, 

velvety and concentrated palate with young, 

saline, spicy and mineral flavours. Finesse and 

noble vegetal characters. Superb. 

Price: € 15 

http://cave-bruneau-dupuy.com 

Cave Bruneau Dupuy 

+33 2 47 97 75 81 

DOMAINE DE LA PERRÉE 87/100 


Price: € 8.50 

https://www.herbault86.fr/ 

G. Herbault 

+33 5 49 22 60 90 

SAINT-POURÇAIN 

LA FICELLE DE SAINT-POURÇAIN 85/100 


Price: € 5.80 

http://www.vignerons-saintpourcain.com 

Cave de Saint-Pourçain 

+33 4 70 45 42 82 

SANCERRE 

ROGER ET DIDIER RAIMBAULT 92/100 

CR D Vielles Vignes 2019: Beautiful clear 

ruby. Delicate nose of red berry fruits enhanced 

by a subtle roasted coffee touch. Delicate attack. 

Full-bodied, fresh and fruity. A very successful, full 

wine with a long fruity finish. 

Price: € 19 

http://www.raimbault-sancerre.com 

Domaine Roger et Didier Raimbault 

+33 2 48 79 32 87 

DOMAINE DANIEL REVERDY ET FILS 90/100 

D P’tit Luce 2018: Brilliant ruby with youthful 

highlights. Shy nose driven by red fruits, morello 

cherry, a floral note and subtle oak. Lovely ample, 

satisfying weight on the palate, which is more 

expressive and very delicate with fine spices. A 

superb wine showing perfect proportions. 

Price: € 14 

http://www.daniel-reverdy-sancerre.com 

Domaine Daniel Reverdy et Fils 

+33 2 48 79 33 29 

DOMAINE MICHEL VATTAN 88/100 

D B-C 2019 

Price: € 16 

http://www.michel-vattan.com 

Michel Vattan 

+33 2 48 79 40 98 

SAUMUR CHAMPIGNY 

CHÂTEAU DE CHAINTRES 91/100 

ORG D Vieilles Vignes 2019: Fairly deep 

cherry-red with ruby tints. Distinctive nose accented 

by noble herbs and backed by ripe red and black 

berries. Bright palate with fleshy, sappy fruitiness 

(redcurrant jelly), elegant tannins and a graphite 

edge on the finish. 

Price: € 14.30 

http://www.chaintres.com 

Château de Chaintres 

+33 2 41 52 90 54 

CLOS DE LA MOUCHE 91/100 

CR D Vintage 2018: Beautiful dark garnet. 

Endearing nose marrying black fruits, violet, toast 

and spice touches. Silky, ample, rich palate 

showing delicacy, pure, savoury intensity and 

well-judged oak. A top-flight wine that needs more 

time. 

Price: € 16 

http://www.laseigneurie.net 

La Seigneurie 

+33 2 41 50 11 15 

DOMAINE DES HAUTS DE SANZIERS 90/100 

D Vintage 2020: Crimson red with ruby and 

dark purple tints. Crisp nose of juicy forest fruits with 

a floral feel. Moreish fruit, restrained tannins and 

well-established freshness coupled with a supple, 

soft mouthfeel. A youthful, charming Champigny. 

Price: € 7 

https://leshautsdesanziers.fr/ 

Les Hauts de Sanziers 

+33 2 41 52 26 75 

DOMAINE DES RAYNIÈRES 90/100 

CR D Vieilles Vignes 2018: Beautiful deep 

crimson. Profound nose opening up to ripe red and 

black fruits then delivering a crisp herbal edge. 

Fleshy, full-bodied palate with fruit overtones. 

Tannins are evident but already very soft. Lovely. 

Price: € 8 

http://www.domainedesraynieres.com 

Domaine des Raynières 

+33 2 41 52 44 87 

DOMAINE LAVIGNE 90/100 

D Les Aieules 2020: Concentrated cherry-red 

with dark purple tints. Distinctive nose intermixing 

fresh bellpepper, forest floor aromas and jammy 

red and black fruits. Profound palate with clear 

fruit-forward vibrancy. Gorgeous, very fine-grain 

tannins and delicious, flavourful length in this allround 

Champigny. 

Price: € 7.50 

http://www.domaine-lavigne.com 

Domaine Lavigne 

+33 2 41 52 92 57 

DOMAINE DU FONDIS 89/100 

CR D Cuvée de Bruyn - Vieilles Vignes 2020 

Price: € 6.40 

http://www.domainedufondis.net 

Domaine du Fondis 

+33 2 47 97 78 58 

DOMAINE DUBOIS 89/100 

D Cuvée d’Automne 2019 

Price: € 7 

http://domaine-christelle-dubois.fr/ 

Domaine Dubois Christelle 

+33 2 41 51 61 32 

DOMAINE DES BONNEVEAUX 88/100 

D Vieilles Vignes 09/21 2020 

Price: € 6 

http://www.domainedesbonneveaux.com 

Domaine des Bonneveaux 

+33 2 41 52 94 91 


137

LOIRE VALLEY - SAUMUR PUY NOTRE DAME 


A VERY GRAPHIC VIEW OF THE VINEYARDS OF SAINT-POURÇAIN. 

PLESSIS-DUVAL 86/100 


Castel Frères - La Chapelle Heulin 

+33 2 40 56 28 16 

SAUMUR PUY NOTRE DAME 

CLOS DE BEAUREGARD 88/100 


Price: € 13 

http://www.saumur-chateaudebeauregard.com 

Château de Beauregard 

+33 2 41 52 25 33 

TOURAINE 

LA BROSSETTE 90/100 

ORG D Gamay 2020: Deep purplish-blue. 

Pleasant nose of ripe red berry fruits with a peppery 

touch. Very pure, fleshy, fruity palate marrying red 

fruit aromas with a delicate spicy tone. A wine 

showing lots of authenticity. 

Price: € 9 

http://www.joeldelaunay.com 

Joël Delaunay 

+33 2 54 71 45 69 

DOMAINE DU GRAND MOULIN 89/100 

CR D 6G 2017 

Price: € 9 

https://www.domainegrandmoulin.com/ 

Domaine du Grand Moulin 

+33 2 54 32 24 02 

DOMAINE DES ROY 88/100 

ORG D Les Grives 2020 

Price: € 8 

http://www.domainedesroy.com 

Domaine des Roy 

+33 2 54 32 51 07 

DOMAINE CHARBONNIER 87/100 

D Gamay 2020 

Price: € 4.80 

http://www.domainecharbonnier.com 

Domaine Charbonnier 

+33 2 54 75 49 29 

TOURAINE CHENONCEAUX 

DOMAINE DE LA ROCHETTE 90/100 

CR D Vintage 2019: Bright crimson tinged 

with dark purple. Appealing nose combining red 

fruits, liquorice, fine spicy touches and mineral 

undertones. Harmonious, perfumed palate with 

exquisite, chiselled, intense notes. A tense, precise, 

genuine wine with silky tannins. Lovely. 

Price: € 9.20 

http://www.vin-rochette-leclair.com 

Domaine de la Rochette 

+33 2 54 71 44 02 

JEAN-MARC VILLEMAINE 88/100 


Price: € 8 

https://www.domaine-villemaine.com/ 

Jean-Marc Villemaine 

+33 2 54 71 52 69 

TOURAINE MESLAND 

DOMAINE DE LUSQUENEAU 


Price: € 4.95 

http://www.bougrier.fr 

Bougrier 

+33 254 71 31 02 

VAL DE LOIRE 

86/100 

SAINT-HILAIRE DU CASTEL DE LA PREUILLE 87/100 

D Cuvée Grande Tradition 2020 

Price: € 5.95 

https://chateau-de-la-preuille.fr/ 

Château de La Preuille 

+33 2 51 46 32 32 

VALENÇAY 

DOMAINE GARNIER 88/100 

D Valencay-Indre 2017 

Price: € 15 

http://oliviergarnier.com 

Domaine Garnier 

+33 2 54 00 10 06 

DOMAINE MORAND 86/100 


Price: € 6 

Domaine Morand 

+33 4 90 62 51 20 


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