Andiamo! Citalia Magazine Spring/Summer 2023

COVER STORY
Parco Archeologico della Neapolis
Syracuse
On the east coast, Syracuse takes you into the sheer timelessness
of Sicily, as you immerse yourself in a thousand-year-old city, with
an even older origin story. Syracuse’s Old Town, known as Ortigia,
is in fact a small island, but is connected by little bridges. Roam the
medieval streets and decadent Baroque piazzas, and discover an
impressive collection of ancient Greek ruins, as you breathe in the salty
sea air of the nearby sparkling waters.
Parco Archeologico della Neapolis
One of Sicily’s greatest archaeological sites is the Neapolis
Archaeological Park, which dates back to 734 BC and was one of
the largest cities in the ancient world. It’s a classicist’s dream - and
an ideal spot for Indiana Jones! Unsurprisingly, it’s a UNESCO World
Heritage site.
All in all, we recommend about an hour and a half to visit the park,
which you can enjoy independently or on a private guided tour.
At the entrance of the park you’ll find a second century Anfiteatro
Romano (Roman amphitheatre), where horse races and bloody combat
took place between gladiators and, occasionally, wild beasts. It’s one of
the more recent monuments, so is usually left until the end of a tour.
Sadly, much of the amphitheatre was destroyed by Spanish conquerors
in the 16th century. You’ll also find the Altar of Hieron, allegedly
the largest stone altar ever built by the ancient Greeks, where bulls
would be sacrificed on feast days to honour the Greek god of sky and
thunder, Zeus.
The pièce de résistance of the archaeological park is its 5th century BC
Teatro Greco (Greek Theatre), which was rebuilt in the 3rd century. It’s
best viewed at its lowest position to give you a sense of size. You’ll
find a few artificial caves surrounding it, some of which are believed
to have been used to supply water for mock naval battles, and also
as burial sites in the Byzantine age. At one point, this impressive
amphitheatre could have accommodated an audience of up to 16,000
to watch all the famous tragedies of its time. Even today, you’ll find a
season of classical theatre running from early May until early July.
You can also explore the Latomia del Paradiso (Paradise Quarry),
an ancient limestone cave that is teeming with catacombs, but has
also bloomed into a beautiful Mediterranean garden of citrus and
magnolia trees.
Orecchio di Dionisio
You’ll find Syracuse’s most famous cave in the park: Orecchio di Dionisio
(the Ear of Dionysius), a wide and deep cavern whose mouth is usually
framed by ferns. Our sources tell us this features in Indiana Jones as an
old mine. The renowned Italian painter Caravaggio believed its shape
resembles a human ear and so gave the cave its name. Legend has it that
the Greek tyrant Dionysius the Elder imprisoned his enemies here so
that he could use the perfect echoing chambers to eavesdrop on them -
and possibly even relished listening to their torture. While access to hear
the sound from the top of the cave has been restricted in recent years,
you can still test the acoustics for yourself from the cavern floor!
Grotta Dei Cordari
Also inside the park, you’ll find the Grotta dei Cordari (the Ropemakers’
Cave), which is expected to feature in the film. It’s so named because
skilled family craftsmen worked here for many centuries, using
their legs and hands to stretch, twist, and weave rope out of hemp,
coconut, and agave, from dawn until sunset each day. A popular
attraction through the centuries, this cave has been depicted in several
significant historical and religious paintings. The last ropemaker left in
1984 when the cave was at risk of collapse and due to the onslaught
of industrial methods. The cave was reopened to the public in 2021,
after 40 years of closure.
Castello Maniace
Right at the tip of Ortigia stands a great 13th century Gothic citadel,
Castello Maniace, which will feature in this year’s epic film, with
scenes featuring horses, gunfire, and smoke! Built on rocks, it’s been
continually restored and restructured through history. There’s a small
antiquarium that features many artefacts found on site, however you
might simply wish to gaze across the waters and dream of another time.
Spring/Summer 2023
Andiamo!