Andiamo! Citalia Magazine Autumn 2023

Autumn 2023
Andiamo!
Michelangelo's World
Join us on a journey in Florence with Italy’s greatest Renaissance artist
Off-the-Beaten-Track Italy
With Citalia’s hidden gems
Ignite your imagination! Citalia celebrates
the many generations of Italy’s creativity,
architecture, and sheer artistic spirit.
Citalia.com
Art & Architecture of Sicily
Unearth the rich artistic heritage
The Ultimate Winter City Break
Three cities, one great rail adventure
1
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WELCOME
Andiamo!
Artistic Awakening
Hello and welcome to the autumn edition of Citalia’s magazine, Andiamo!
Have we got a treat for you this season: we invite you to embrace
your artistic side!
Italy is brimming with artistry, which stems back through centuries
of creativity and craftsmanship. We kick off your awakening with
Michelangelo's World in the magnificent Renaissance city
of Florence.
We then take you to Italy's largest island with the help of art
historian Julian Treuherz, who recently published his book,
Art and Architecture of Sicily.
Then there’s the contemporary art scene to spark your imagination,
best witnessed within The Modern Art Giant of Italy: Turin.
Of course, all Italy's epic inspiration must come from somewhere!
We believe it’s the hypnotic landscapes, which we share with you in
Off-the-Beaten-Track Italy.
Italy is similarly overflowing with liquid muses as we highlight when
we Stop & Sip with Richard Bampfield, an esteemed Master of Wine,
or explain The Perfect Pick Me Up: Espresso. You can also venture
into acclaimed Urban Chic Bars, which are ideal if you’re planning
a winter escape.
Speaking of winter, we highly recommend Italy’s cities during these
quieter months, and so we’ve put together The Ultimate Winter
City Break, a holiday you can personalise that combines three cities
by train. Getting around by rail is one of several travel tips by
long-standing Citalia guests Diane & Kevin Hadley, which you can
read about in The Italophiles. You can also get an appreciation of
The Italian Life: Season by Season with Citalia’s very own Regional
Destination Manager, Stefano Nirta.
Paint your own perfect picture of Italy any time of year. You can
even ring in 2024 with our feature on How & Where to Spend New
Year in Italy.
With over 90 years of experience, our team is on hand to craft you a
truly tailor-made holiday that comes with personalised 24/7 service
and our Travel with Confidence guarantee.
We look forward to welcoming you to Italy.
Helen Adamson
Managing Director
Citalia.com
Autumn 2023
Andiamo!

Andiamo! Artistic
Awakening
COVER FEATURE
KEY FEATURES
10 8
16
Michelangelo's World
Join us on a Tuscan journey and learn
about the legacy of Italy’s greatest
Renaissance artist.
Italy: The Holiday Hotlist
The reasons behind Italy’s rising
popularity, and our top tips to navigate
away from the crowds.
The Ultimate Winter
City Break
Three urban stars of Italy collide
with our epic winter adventure by rail.
INSIDE
OUR AUTUMN
2023 EDITION
6
8
Ignite Your
Imagination
with Citalia
Italy: The Holiday
Hotspot
16
20
The Ultimate
Winter City Break
A Most Unusual
Bookshop
10
Michelangelo's
World
22
Off-the-Beaten-
Track Italy
ABTA No.V4068
14
Secrets of a
Hotelier with
Brunelleschi Hotel
26
Art & Architecture
of Sicily
Andiamo! is a publication of Citalia | Citalia.com | Travel with Confidence | 01293 765061 | customerrelations@travelopia.com
Connect with us
Managing Director: Helen Adamson | Publisher: Madhatter Creative Co. - Jen Marsden | Design: K8 Design & Marketing Ltd - James Palmer
Cover image: Trevi Fountain, Rome (Shutterstock)
4
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Bespoke Luxury Holidays with
Award-winning Service
Sovereign.com
Exclusive Experiences
& Expertise
COLLECTION 2023
Handpicked Accommodation
& Destinations
Featuring Canada, Mexico,
Cruising and the Caribbean
2023/2024
CONTENTS
22
Off-the-Beaten-Track Italy
Forge your own path and unearth new
experiences with Citalia’s hidden gems.
26
Art & Architecture of Sicily
An interview with art historian and
author Julian Treuherz on the rich
artistic heritage of Sicily.
46
Urban Chic Bars
Uncover Italy’s epic bar and mixology
scene, which is just waiting to be
sipped up.
29
How & Where to
Spend New Year
36
Avis Ultimate
Road Trips:
Tuscan Coast &
Liguria
44
The Perfect
Pick Me Up:
Espresso
32
How about a
Small Group
Escorted Tour?
38
Stop & Sip
on Italy's
Wine Trail
46
Urban Chic Bars
33
Our Gastronomic
Highlights of Emilia
Romagna
40
Guest Story:
The Italophiles
49
The Italian Life:
Season by Season
with Stefano Nirta
35
Lakeside Style
with Grand
Hotel Victoria
42
The Modern Art
Giant of Italy:
Turin
DISCOVER
NORTH AMERICA
51
Discover Our
Sister Brands
Images courtesy of: L'Antiquario Napoli, Alamy (Stefano Valeri), Albergo L'Ostelliere - Villa Sparina Resort, Aquatio Cave Luxury Hotel & Spa, Baia del Godano Resort & Spa, Brunelleschi Hotel,
Castello di Rivoli Museo d’Arte Contemporanea, Rivoli-Turin, Castello di Rivoli and the Manica Lunga (Andrea Guermani), Diane & Kevin Hadley, Ellie Harding, FIONDA / Artissima (The Silent One:
Sebastien Bertrand, Hidden Messages: Eva Beresin, Koshiro Akiyama: Daniel Benjamin Gallery), Fondazione Merz (Andrea Guermani), Grand Hotel et des Palme, Grand Hotel Victoria Hotel, Araba Fenice,
Hotel Bel Sito, Hotel Giardinetto, Hotel Saline, Il Locale Florence, Jerry Thomas Project (Worlds50bestbars.com), Nazionale Hotel, Palazzo Alabardieri, Peter de Figueiredo & Lund Publishers, PINACOTECA
AGNELLI LA PISTA 500 (Sebastiano Pellion di Persano), Principi di Piemonte | UNA Esperienze, Quanto Basta Lecce, Risorgimento Resort, Starhotels Metropole, Stefano Nirta, The Court Rome.
Prices are estimations based on 2023/24 travel and are correct at going to print but are subject to availability, restrictions, and change. Prices shown are based on two adults sharing and include accommodation, return
flights from London, and private resort transfers (unless indicated as "car hire recommended"). Flights from alternative UK airports are available. Please note that any flight or travel times included are approximations.
Autumn 2023
Andiamo!

Ignite Your
Imagination
with Citalia’s Personal Travel Planners
Discover our Personal Travel Planners’ favourite
recommendations for an artistic awakening in Italy!
Uffizi Gallery &
Accademia Gallery
Florence
“I absolutely loved both when I visited,
and I am not a gallery type of person! At
Uffizi Gallery I was completely drawn to
an amazing portrait of a young boy sitting
on the edge of a pool. The painting looked
like a photo - his skin looked like if you
were to touch it, it would feel warm, and I
couldn’t take my eyes off it! And then there
is Botocelli’s Birth of Venus, which literally
glows. The Accademia is fantastic too, and
just across from the Uffizi with all its statues
and carvings and the original Statue of
David, which is spectacular! Be sure to visit
these galleries with a guide who will really
bring the pictures to life. There is so much
variety with both modern and classical art,
you could spend a whole day at each one!”
Linda Kulka
Personal Travel Planner
Hotel Su Gologone
Sardinia
“Hotel Su Gologone is so much more
than a hotel and by far the most unique
property we feature, with magnificent
mountain and valley views but most
of all an unrivalled combination of
artistic, naturalistic, and gastronomic
experiences! A perfect symbol of
Sardinian tradition, the hotel is
dotted with local tapestries, cushions,
paintings, and sculptures. The Botteghe
Su Gologone Style, built in the old
stables, offers art and design workshops,
painting, ceramics, and embroidery, all
made using unique local specimens.”
Artan Prifti
Personal Travel Planner
Basilica of Santa Croce
Florence
“The Basilica of Santa Croce is magnificent to
see and a real photo opportunity - no matter
what the weather! It has one of the greatest
assemblages of paintings, sculptures, and
funeral tombs in existence. It’s the world’s
largest Franciscan church and a fine example
of Italian gothic style, plus it’s home to many
celebrity tombs, magnificent frescos,
and the Donatello sculptures.”
Erin Bridewell
Personal Travel Planner
Teatro Antico di Taormina
Sicily
The Pantheon
Rome
“The Pantheon comes from the ancient Greek word Pantheion - or Off all Gods. I absolutely
love exploring this building with all the history and artistic wonder it possesses. The dome
opening up to the heavens is absolutely breathtaking, and it’s filled with statues and tombs
of former Italian kings, and of course The Tomb of Raphael.”
Rae Bowers
Personal Travel Planner
“When I first visited this ancient Greek
theatre many years ago, it left an amazing
impression on me. It’s used throughout the
year for many events, including concerts and
operas, and is an amazing site to see for a
show, or just to walk around. It looks down
the coast from Taormina, with Mount Etna
standing in the background, so the view from
here is simply stunning, especially in the later
part of the day as the sun is going down.”
Richie Howe
Personal Travel Planner
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Citalia.com

INSIDE ITALY
TRENTINO-
ALTO ADIGE
FRUILI-
VENEZIA
GUILIA
AOSTA
VALLEY
PIEDMONT
LOMBARDY
VENETO
LIGURIA
EMILIA-ROMAGNA
Florence
MARCHE
TUSCANY
UMBRIA
LAZIO
ABRUZZO
Rome
MOLISE
SORRENTO
PUGLIA
BASILICATA
SARDINIA
Taormina
SICILY
Discover the Real Italy at Citalia.com >
Autumn 2023
Andiamo!

Italy:
The Holiday
Hotspot
When it comes to travel destinations, there’s been an epic
rise in Italy’s popularity this year. We share the probable
reasons why - and how best to navigate around the crowds.
Right from the start of 2023, we noticed Italy was becoming that
number one holiday hotspot. There were more guest enquiries and
more bookings outside of the usual travel times. The best hotels -
particularly in the cities - were full to the brim.
According to Italy's National Statistics Institute, overnight stays in
January and February, which are not typical travel months, were up
by almost half.
“We’re not surprised that Italy has gained such interest,” explains
Heather Green, Head of Product. “There’s so much to love -
ancienthistory, culture that spans a multitude of interests,
amazing gastronomy in the countryside, dazzling beaches and
islands, gorgeous lakes, not to mention an amenable climate.”
There’s another reason for this popularity as well, as Italy has
garnered more limelight on the big and small screen in the last two
decades. Just think about all the Italian scenes in the Daniel Craig
James Bond films, rom-coms such as Letters to Juliet (2010) and
To Rome with Love (2012), not to mention the romantic thriller
The Tourist (2010), which was set in Venice.
In the past few years we’ve had the Disney/Pixar film Luca (2021)
focusing on the Italian Riviera, as well as the recent Indiana Jones and
the Dial of Destiny (2023) based in Sicily. Season 2 of White Lotus was
similarly set on Italy’s largest island.
If fiction hasn't grabbed your attention, then the many popular travel
series might have - from Clive Myrie's Italian Road Trip to the actor
Stanley Tucci: Searching for Italy, as well as a myriad of other Italian
culinary programmes.
Italy’s also been receiving increased acclaim for its
beaches, with an impressive 458 of them now boasting the
independent Blue Flag, which awards beaches based on
cleanliness, water quality, sustainability, and environment.
And did you know that Bella Italia holds the highest number of
UNESCO World Heritage sites than any other country, with an
incredible 53 cultural sites, and five natural sites?
With all this interest, we have a few tips to ensure you get the most
out of your next Citalia holiday.
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Citalia.com

COVER STORY
Book Earlier Than Usual
Given that even off-peak travel months are now receiving an increased
number of guests, we highly recommend you book earlier than you
normally would.
Unlike many destinations, much of Italy’s finest accommodation
is boutique, including family-run hotels, converted palazzos, and
countryside albergos (inns). This means that there’s usually only
a limited number of rooms and suites.
“Those with the best views and amenities tend to get snapped up
quickly. If you want that lakeside or sea view, or central location, you
really need to be thinking about booking for 2024 now, especially in
the more popular city destinations and places like the Amalfi Coast
and Sardinia,” says Heather.
Plan Your Trip Off-Peak
You'll be able to enjoy your holiday so much more if you visit Italy at a
time when the rest of the world isn’t there!
ENIT, the Italian National Tourist Board, reported that the number
of international visitors who spent their summer in Italy rose by 86%
compared with last year.
“The summer months, particularly in places like Venice, the main
lakes, and Sicily can get really busy. If you don’t have specific dates
in mind and have the flexibility to travel during the shoulder seasons
at either side of the school holidays, I suggest you do”, says Heather.
“If you want to visit the cities, go in the winter months when they are
generally quieter.” Get some inspiration with our Ultimate Winter City
Trip on page 16.
We also suggest you speak to our Personal Travel Planners for their
off-peak recommendations.
Go Off-the-Beaten-Track
Italy is incredibly diverse and there’s so much more beyond the
well-known destinations - and that’s where our expertise comes in.
The most visited city in Italy this year is Rome, and it’s understandable
why. Not only does it have incredible sites like the Vatican and
Colosseum, many big hit films that are set in Italy have focused on the
Eternal City. Think Gladiator (2000), Angels & Demons (2009), Eat Pray
Love (2010), Spectre (2015), and The Two Popes (2019).
But there are other cities that are just as extraordinary and not as
populated, such as Verona with its colossal Arena, or Turin with its
incredible architecture, industrial heritage, and food culture!
Italy is incredibly diverse and there’s so much more beyond the
well-known destinations - and that’s where our expertise can help
you find the right destination.
“While most people flock to Tuscany for their quintessential Italian
experience, regions such as Umbria and Piedmont provide a similar
countryside offering”, adds Heather. “You’re likely to happen upon
incredible sagre (festivals) in small villages, that can be just as enjoyable
as some of the big events that attract huge crowds, like Venice
Biennale or the Palio Horse Race in Siena.”
Find out our top places for an off-the-beaten-track Italian experience
next year on page 22.
Don’t delay - plan your Italian holiday today! Speak to one of our ​Personal Travel Planners on 01293 765061
Autumn 2023
Andiamo!

Michelangelo's
World
Come with us on a Tuscan journey that celebrates
the legacy of Italy’s greatest Renaissance artist.
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Citalia.com

Artists with such great talent are
rare, perhaps only gracing the world
once every century. Yet this was
Michelangelo, the great Italian sculptor,
painter, architect, and even poet of the
Renaissance. He seemingly dived into a
different dimension, understanding time
and space, and picking up on the smallest
of details that created the masterpieces
which, 500 years later, continue to be
celebrated and highly sought after.
Unlike most artists who are only discovered posthumously, Michelangelo
was revered in his lifetime. He was known by his peers as
Il Divino (The Divine One), given the otherworldly nature of his art.
Michelangelo was deeply committed to his work, preferring to create
than discuss it. He was also secretive, keeping his studio locked, and
often burning his drawings.
Born in a small Tuscan village in 1475 to a family of bankers, as a
teenager Michelangelo was sent to grammar school in Florence, which
was at the epicentre of the Renaissance and an artist’s conclave. This
is what first drew the young student to art, as he began drawing local
churches and studying other sculptors. Aged 14, Michelangelo unusually
gained a paid apprenticeship with a master fresco painter who owned
the city’s largest artists' studio.
Through his work, Michelangelo was given an opportunity to study
at the Humanist Academy, which was established by Lorenzo de’
Medici, who was part of the elite Medici family that ruled Florence
- and delivered four popes. De’ Medici became his mentor, moving
Michelangelo into the palace to be raised like his son, and educating
him with his own children.
Hundreds of portraits were drawn of Michelangelo
while he was still alive, and you’ll notice in these
that his nose looks a little disfigured. This is because
Michelangelo had a tendency to be overconfident and
blunt, and he was punched in the nose by another
pupil while at the Humanist Academy.
After de’ Medici’s death, Michelangelo temporarily left Florence and
the Medici Court to live back home with his father. It was here
that he honed his understanding of human anatomy, as his local
church permitted him to study the corpses that came from the
attached hospital. It’s also during this time that he carved his
first larger-than-life-sized statue of Hercules from a single
block of marble, which sadly disappeared and has never
been found.
Florence
The Sagrestia Nuova at the Medici Chapels
The Medici family church, the Basilica of San Lorenzo, stands in
the heart of Florence, and it’s here where you’ll find Michelangelo’s
first foray into architecture!
Michelangelo designed the New Sacristy, a new domed mausoleum for
the family, to accompany the Old Sacristy designed by Brunelleschi.
Within this incredible space you’ll find several sculpted monuments
dedicated to individual members of the Medici family, including
Madonna and Child.
In 1976, a secret chamber under the chapel was discovered, and
on its walls were charcoal sketches believed to be created by
Michelangelo, including reproductions of images from the Sistine
Chapel, self-portraits, and of Christ. What were these doing down
there, you ask?
Well, in 1529 Michelangeo joined his fellow Florentines against
the Medici Pope and ruling family to demand a more democratic
system. To prevent punishment from the hands that fed him,
Michelangelo disappeared for three months until it was safe to
return to work. For hundreds of years no one knew where he
had hidden, but now we know. This fragile subterranean space is
occasionally open to the public as part of the wider museum visit.
The Statue of David
Arguably the most iconic of Michelangelo’s work, The Statue of David
was one of several sculptures commissioned by the House of Medici,
however this one was important as it was meant to represent the
freedom of Florence.
This epic work was actually initially started by two other artists almost
forty years earlier but they struggled with the large block of Carrara
marble and the imperfections in its grain. That’s why the talented
Michelangelo was asked to complete it, which he did. He used his
deep comprehension of human anatomy to create a masterpiece that
stands 17 feet tall and is based on the Biblical tale of courage and inner
strength, David and Goliath.
The Statue of David was meant to be a centrepiece for the city
cathedral’s gable, however its sheer size meant it wouldn’t be
appreciated, so it was instead housed in Piazza della Signoria. Today,
you can visit it in the Galleria Dell'Accademia, where it sits protected
from the outside elements.
During the course of his life, Michelangelo lived
in Venice, Bologna, and Rome, but he always
seemed to return to his favourite city, Florence.
Come with us into Michelangelo’s world.
Autumn 2023
Andiamo!

Bronzed David
In place of the original Statue of David, a bronze replica was made by
Giuseppe Poggi and is on display in Piazza della Signoria, right outside
the Duomo. There’s also a third replica at Piazzale Michelangelo, located
on a hill overlooking Florence, which you can walk or take
the bus to.
Palazzo Vecchio
Across from Piazza della Signoria lies an old Florentine palace that
has graffiti unlike any other - as it was drawn by Michelangelo! On the
side of Palazzo Vecchio nearest to Uffizi Gallery you’ll find a sketch
of a man’s face etched into the stone. There are several legends as to
why Michelangelo did this. Some historians say he carved it as a dare,
while others say it was the face of a chatty bore that he carved to pass
the time. A more sombre story is that it’s the face of a man who was
executed in the square.
Casa Buonarroti
Housed in a former 17th century palace, this Florentine museum boasts
several famous works created by a young Michelangelo, including
Madonna of the Stairs and Battle of the Centaurs. There’s also several
wooden models, and a whole room dedicated to a rotating display of
his impeccable drawings, which come from the museum's collection of
over 205 sheets.
The Bargello Museum
Right in the heart of Florence lies this ancient medieval palace, which
became the first national museum of unified Italy. Inside, you’ll find
the largest collection of Tuscan Renaissance sculptures. Naturally, it
features some of Michelangelos’ earliest works, including Bacco, Tondo
Pinti, Apollo, and the Ritratto di Bruto.
Michelangelo's La Madonna della Pietà
at St. Peter's Basilica, Vatican City.
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Citalia.com

MICHELANGELO'S WORLD
Carrara
Why not take a day trip from Florence to Carrara, which houses
the marble quarries that provided Michelangelo with his
precious sculpting material?
Located two hours north of Florence and suspended between
the Apuan Alps and the sea, Carrara is known in Tuscany as the
marble city. Extracted from the earth since ancient Rome, the
marble is considered white gold, given the incredible quality of
the stone.
Marble Mines
You may have already seen these mines - on the big screen at
least - as they featured in the action-packed opening car chase in
the James Bond film, Quantum of Solace (2008).
If you’ve hired a car, you can take yourself to the Apuan Alps,
but to really get high into the mountains for the best views,
you might want to go on one of the guided and rather thrilling
4x4 jeep tours.
CARMI
To understand the relationship between Carrara and Michelangelo,
then why not head to CARMI, the Carrara and Michelangelo
Museum, situated in Parco Padula? Set across three floors, this
permanent exhibition shares from when Michelangelo took his
first journey to visit the mines in Carrara, and boasts several
reproductions of his work. It also brings the artist to life through
video and photography.
Head into Michelangelo's World with us! Speak to one of our Personal Travel Planners on 01293 765061
Autumn 2023
Andiamo!

Secrets of a Hotelier
with Brunelleschi Hotel
Have you ever wondered what it's like running a historical and superior four-star hotel?
Citalia spoke to Fabiola Menchetti, Director of Sales & Marketing at Brunelleschi Hotel in Florence.
I was never meant to work in
Florence, let alone fall in love
with the city. I come from Siena,
and so we are historical enemies
of the Florentines - the only
battle we ever won against the
Tuscan capital was the 1260
Battle of Montaperti.
I’ve spent my career working in
luxury properties across Italy,
from the Tuscan countryside to
Syracuse in Sicily.
In 2008 I was happily working in Genoa’s best five-star property on
the Ligurian coast, just a few steps from the sea. The General Manager
there told me he was leaving for a new adventure in Florence where
he was going to pick up a traditional old, tired hotel and bring it new
charm. I wished him luck.
One year later he called me up, “I am here in the heart of Florence on
a construction site, but this hotel is going to become a legend, will you
join us?” How could I refuse this challenge? And that’s how I ended up
at the Brunelleschi Hotel well over a decade ago.
Funnily enough, Brunelleschi Hotel had a partnership with Citalia even
before the restoration, so I’ve known the team since the early days.
This is not only a long-lasting partnership but a real friendship, built on
strong mutual trust and full confidence. We talk the same language,
and we know we can rely on each other.
I feel what makes Brunelleschi Hotel so special is
its heritage, as it provides its soul and character.
The hotel was created from three different buildings right in the heart
of Florence’s Old Town. The most ancient is its Byzantine Pagliazza
tower, built around 572 AD to act as a watchtower to see enemies
coming towards the city. It’s the oldest in Florence and so many visitors
come to see it. In the 12th century the tower then became a women’s
prison and the name ‘pagliazza’ comes from the uncomfortable straw
bed that would cover the floor the women slept on.
At a later date, St. Michael’s Church was built near the tower, and it was
renovated in Romanesque style in about 1100 AD. The church remained
active until 1785, then the building became a very simple home.
In the 18th century, the tower and the church were
incorporated into a big urban block and for centuries the
buildings were closed. Then in 1980 Italo Gamberini had the
idea to liberate the buildings and the tower.
During that time, they found ancient Roman remains and
important Renaissance ceramics in the basement - so a
museum was created to exhibit this extensive collection.
Guests can visit the relics anytime - all you need to do is ask
the concierge who will give you access.
When I joined during the 2010 refurb, the hotel was given a
full restyling of the buildings. It took the architect much effort,
but the result is that it’s full of charm and elegance. Every single
corner and suite in the hotel are decorated in a unique style,
with furniture handpicked from the city’s antique shops.
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Citalia.com

A suite was built on the top of the tower. It's the only one where you
can see the original bricks and stones from the Byzantine period, and
it has enchanting 18th century chandeliers.
One of my most memorable guest experiences took place when a lady
checked into the Tower Suite. She met our Suite Ambassador, who
welcomes and supports all our suite guests. I understood there was
some romantic planning underway and I was asked if I would welcome
the second guest upon his arrival.
I took him from the lobby towards the tower bar, with the excuse of
giving him a tasty welcome aperitif. As we went through the corridor
with the Byzantine Tower on his right and the glass staircase on his
left, he stopped as something red was dangling from the staircase. It
was a red carnelian heart, the first gift he had given his girlfriend.
At the top of the stairs was his love welcoming him into the Tower
Suite with a sumptuous bottle of champagne. It was such a sweet
moment.
They stayed with us again a year later and chose to stay in The Pool
Suite, my favourite place in the hotel. It’s a duplex suite with a very
romantic canopy bedroom, and then a small terrace on the top floor
that offers a neverending 360-degree view of the city. The dome of
the duomo (cathedral) and Giotto Bell Tower are right in front of you.
The Pool Suite offers total privacy. You can look
out over the rooftops without anyone knowing
you’re there. There’s a hot tub where you can
enjoy the magic with a glass of champagne, and
we often arrange private meals there.
Our two Michelin-starred restaurant in the Byzantine tower is a
very precious gourmet experience with wonderful service. From
the moment we hired our Executive Chef Rocco de Santis in 2017,
we invested a lot of time and resources. I recommend you reserve
a table in advance as there are just seven two-person tables in the
entire restaurant.
You can visit Florence at any time of year. It’s perfectly possible to
enjoy a long weekend in November and March when the rates are
more favourable. Christmas and New Year at Brunelleschi are very
special as we host grand traditional dinners for our guests - and on
Valentine's Day we set a very romantic scene.
Brunelleschi Hotel is so typically Florentine and honestly, after so
many years I wouldn’t change a thing about the hotel - the only thing
we need to do is maintain it. We’ve spent many years listening to our
guests and acting on every suggestion and idea so that we offer a
really personalised experience.
A 4 night holiday in Florence, staying at Brunelleschi Hotel, starts from £699 per person.
Speak to one of our Personal Travel Planners on 01293 765061
Autumn 2023
Andiamo!

16 Citalia.com

The Ultimate
Winter City Break
Are you ready for the ultimate city adventure this winter?
Discover the three biggest stars of Italy,
which celebrate romance, art, and history.
We think Italy’s cities are best explored in the winter months
when they are quieter. While temperatures are cooler and
it may occasionally rain, you’re just as likely to find sunshine
and crisp, blue skies that will make you love this season.
You have the perfect excuse to stop off for a cioccolata calda (hot
chocolate) or delve deeper into interesting art galleries and museums.
What’s more, it’s so easy to travel between Italy’s cities. The highspeed
trains of Trenitalia are reliable and provide a leisurely way to dip
in and out. With that in mind, we’ve created the ultimate city winter
trip for you, with a 10-day tour of Venice, Florence, and Rome by rail.
Venice
Begin your winter holiday in Venice, where romance is always in
the air.
There are plenty of direct flights into Venice’s two airports, which
take around two hours. From there, get your first glimpse of this
famous floating city as you reach your hotel by water taxi, which
may make you feel like James Bond.
A great starting point is at the heart of the action in the vibrant
main square of Piazza San Marco, which is surrounded by some
of Venice’s most famous landmarks. Look up and you’ll see the
Campanile bell tower and the astronomical clock tower of Torre
dell'Orologi, or you can venture into St. Mark’s Basilica and the
Doge’s Palace, home to plenty of sculptures and mosaics, and
curious stories.
There are plenty of restaurants around the square and along the
beautiful waterfront of Riva degli Schiavoni where you can stop
and have a bite to eat, while the renowned Bridge of Sighs is just
a short walk away. If you wander away from the main attractions,
you’ll notice the streets feel slower paced.
The best way to get acquainted with Venice is by wandering
around and allowing yourself to get lost, as narrow alleyways
open up to beautiful piazzas and smaller quaint baroque bridges.
En route, you’ll spot bakeries selling cannoli, boutiques selling
decorative Venetian masks and Murano glass, and bars offering
warming vin brulé (mulled wine).
We suggest you wake up early the following morning to explore
the famous islands of the Venetian lagoon. Aboard a boat going
to the glassmakers’ island of Murano, which houses all of Venice’s
glass factories, and where you can watch the fascinating art of
glass blowing.
You can then island-hop over to Burano, a picturesque scene of
colourful fishing cottages and boats that bob up and down in
the canals. If you’re lucky, you may get to witness the island’s
famous and intricate lacemaking by villagers sitting out in the sun.
Afterward, head to Torcello, a quieter island that holds Basilica
dei Santa Maria Assunta, a beautiful cathedral decorated with
treasured mosaics.
On your final day, why not explore Venice’s classic delights? Start
by observing the city’s most famous bridge, Rialto, and its nearby
fish market that has a distinctly local feel. Browse the city opera
house of Teatro la Fenice, then discover an unrivalled modern art
collection at the Peggy Guggenheim Collection. Top it all off with
a romantic gondola ride where you can admire the drama of the
city’s gothic architecture from the water.
Autumn 2023
Andiamo!

Florence
On your fourth morning, board a train that will take you to the
Tuscan capital city, just a two hour and 15-minute journey away.
Florence is teeming with artistic delights and the occasional
bohemian neighbourhood. Once you’ve checked into your
hotel, head straight to the main square, Piazza della Signoria,
where you can begin to unwrap the jewels of this Renaissance
city. Observe impressive statues, such as the Neptune
Fountain, designed by the Florentine artist Ammannati.
You can then venture to the city’s town hall at Palazzo Vecchio
and spend a couple of hours browsing the Uffizi Gallery, home
to the world’s most important Renaissance art collection.
Your evening can be spent tucking into delicious regional fayre
and wine.
After a good night’s sleep and a leisurely breakfast,
head to the Oltrarno District, home to the Piazzale
Michelangelo, which is a great spot for capturing
Florence in all its glory.
Right next door lies a spellbinding Iris Garden, which boasts
over two hundred varieties of the fragrant perennial. If that
puts you in the mood for more nature, wander over to the
distinctly Italian Boboli Gardens. Nearby, you’ll find Santo
Spirito, which boasts artisan workshops and is an ideal spot to
purchase handmade sandals and jewellery.
Cross the river back to Florence to observe the city’s
impressive cathedral, which boasts 44 stained glass windows
and many important sculptures and paintings. If you have your
good walking shoes on and fancy some exercise then you
can take the 463 steps up to the duomo’s magnificent dome,
where you’ll be rewarded with beautiful views over the city.
After a spot of lunch, head to Accademia Gallery to witness
Renaissance paintings and sculptures by famous Italian artists
like Botticelli and Giambologna, as well as Michelangelo’s
original David in the impressive Hall of Prisoners.
Nearby lies the neighbourhood of San Lorenzo, home to hipster
haunts such as the whimsical café-cum-florist, La Ménagère, as
well as cool gelaterie, a 19th century food market with a simple
but delicious food court, and biodynamic restaurants where
you can enjoy an authentic evening meal.
On your last day in Florence, you might like to explore the
Tuscan countryside by booking a wine tour in Chianti, which
is a mere hour and a half away from the capital. As you travel
through the scenic countryside, you can escape into the rolling
hills of vineyards before winding up in a wine cellar where you
can inhale and sip Chianti Classico, Riserva, and Tuscan IGT. On
your way back to Florence, you’ll get a chance to stop off at the
pretty town of Greve to purchase local cured meats and wine
and enjoy one more wine-tasting.
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Citalia.com

THE ULTIMATE WINTER CITY BREAK
Rome
For the last leg of your ultimate Italian city adventure, it’s time to hop
over to the Eternal City of Rome, which takes just one hour by rail, so
you can easily be there by lunchtime.
After you’ve settled into your hotel, you can start exploring! Get your
bearings with a visit to the beautiful baroque church of Santa Maria
della Vittoria, which made an appearance in the 2009 Dan Brown
film, Angels & Demons.
Then take the short walk over to Villa Borghese, a pretty park and
gardens that houses a world-renowned collection of art by famous
Italian painters such as Caravaggio, Bernini, and Raphael. (We
recommend you book Borghese Gallery in advance as there’s limited
access and availability).
Stop in one of the nearby restaurants to try a tipica Roma meal such
as spaghetti alla carbonara or tonnarelli cacio e pepe.
After a good night’s rest, the following day you can explore Rome’s
historical sites, starting with the world’s largest amphitheatre, the
renowned Colosseum. Take a tour of the arena where the ancient
Romans watched their epic sports matches and gladiator duels. You
can then casually stroll to the intricate Trevi Foundation and join
others in throwing coins at the feet of Neptune for luck.
Afterwards, explore the former bohemian neighbourhood of Piazza di
Spagna, which once housed great writers like Lord Byron, Percy and
Mary Shelley, and John Keats. It’s here where you’ll find the Spanish
Steps, which was most recently featured in an epic car chase scene in
this year's Mission: Impossible 7 film.
The former ancient Roman temple of the Pantheon will then call you
to explore it. Nowadays it’s used as a church so you can wander
inside and explore its giant dome, frescoes and sculptures, and tombs
filled with famous Italians.
At one point during your stay in Rome you could visit Forno Campo
de’ Fiori in centro storico and try their pizza bianca for lunch or dinner.
Regarded as the best pizza in Rome, we’ll let you judge for yourself!
Where best to spend your last full day in Rome
than the home of the Pope, Vatican City? Even if
you're not religious, you’ll be amazed by this
sprawling city-state, with all its iconic artworks.
Venture into St. Peter’s Square where the Pope holds an audience
with visitors most Wednesdays. You’ll likely recognise the dome of
St. Peter’s Basilica, which impresses upon Rome’s skyline.
If you wish you can climb 551 steps to the top for spectacular
bird’s-eye views of Rome. Take time to catch your breath, as it will
be taken away again when you visit the Vatican Museums, and the
Sistine Chapel where the sheer scale of Michelangelo’s famous
frescoes may surprise you.
With so many priceless artefacts and paintings on show, we
recommend you take a guided tour, so you make the most of
your visit.
The next morning before you head to the airport for your journey
home, take a last-minute trip to Piazza Navona, where you can
grab a warming cup of coffee and croissant and watch street artists
performing in this pretty square.
Citalia’s 9 night tailor-made winter multi-city break starts from £1,499 per person, including return flights from London,
accommodation, transfers, trains and/or car hire. Speak to one of our Personal Travel Planners on 01293 765061
Autumn 2023
Andiamo!

A Most Unusual
Bookshop
“Oh it’s magical!” That’s usually the first comment
whenever the Citalia team mentions Libreria Acqua Alta.
Discover this unique Venetian bookshop.
If you love reading, the smell of books, or even just have a
penchant for curiosity, then head to Libreria Acqua Alta,
which is hidden in one of Venice’s many narrow streets.
The independent bookshop is named
after the famous phenomenon of Aqua
Alta, in which the Adriatic Sea tide rises
and temporarily floods the city. Crammed
with new and used books, magazines,
and maps in every nook and cranny, it’s
commonplace for the local waterways
to flow into the shop and have several
inches of water from the floor.
In order to protect this precious collection
that’s spread across numerous beautifullydecorated
rooms, the books are unusually
stored in waterproof vestibules, including old bathtubs, rowboats,
and gondolas. The result is a surprisingly pretty and quirky display.
There’s a staircase made entirely
of damaged and outdated books,
which is worth climbing for the
view of Venice’s canals. Meanwhile
at the ‘fire escape’ you’ll find a
door that leads straight into a
canal, so tiptoe carefully if you
don't want wet feet!
The atmosphere of this enchanting, albeit somewhat chaotic,
bookshop is welcoming, and while it can get very busy with visitors,
there’s an inviting air to slow down and browse the collection. To
add to this approachable spirit are several
fluffy cats. Once strays, these felines have
since been adopted by the bookshop
owners, and tend to sprawl out on piles of
books waiting to be petted.
You’ll also find vintage postcards for sale
as well as a few souvenirs, should you
wish to take a memento or gift home
with you. We recommend you visit right
at opening or closing during the weekday
if you want to avoid the crowds.
Libreria Acqua Alta is open from 9am to
8pm and located at Castello 5176/B, just a five minute walk from
Piazzetta dei Leoncini through Calle Canonica.
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A 4 night holiday in Venice, staying at Hotel Bel Sito, starts from £649 per person.
Speak to one of our ​Personal Travel Planners on 01293 765061
Autumn 2023
Andiamo!

Off-the-Beaten-Track
Don’t get overwhelmed by the crowds. Forge your own path
and unearth a more local spirit with Citalia’s hidden gems.
Piedmont
A foodie’s secret
Enveloped by the Alps on the three sides, the northern region of
Piedmont has a distinct spirit, from the artistic capital of Turin to its
glorious countryside, filled with magical medieval castles, thermal
spa resorts, and a fabulous, albeit unassuming, food heritage.
Benevello
A one-road village
that snakes through
some of Italy’s most
foodie-friendly
countryside.
DISCOVER
The village’s homely
trattorie. They may
seem rustic but are
often served up by
top chefs.
Gavi
A welcoming village that is the gateway to Piedmont’s finest wines.
DRINK
Wine made from the native cortese grape variety, considered
Italy’s white barolo.
Bra and Pollenzo
A region built on viticulture and home to
the Slow Food movement.
VISIT
The Wine Bank, home to 100,000
bottles of the world’s greatest wine.
Serralunga d’Alba
A village in the wine-making Langhe region, crowned with a
fairytale castle and folklore.
EAT LOCAL
Tuck into the famed white truffles of neighbouring Alba.
STAY
Albergo L'Ostelliere - Villa Sparina
Resort Traditional, a boutique farmhouse
with an award-winning winery and
Michelin-plate restaurant.
From £799 per person for 5 nights.
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Cilento
A coastal beauty
Distinctly unpretentious compared with its Neapolitan
neighbours, the sunny region of Cilento has cradled many
literary greats. And no wonder, with its inspiring natural
beauty, from the mountains and beaches to the sheltered
coves and pastel-hued harbours.
Palinuro
A sleepy seaside town with incredible Blue Flag beaches and
stunning sea caves.
Santa Maria di Castellabate
An architectural gem of a town that’s frozen in time with wineries,
beaches, and hidden bays.
VISIT
Tenuta Vannula for a tour of the best organic buffalo
mozzarella farm.
EAT LOCAL
Anchovy pasta followed by lemon meringue pie.
STAY
Hotel Saline, a family-friendly art deco style hotel located on its
own private white-sand beach.
From £849 per person for 7 nights.
Lake Iseo
A dramatic display
Tucked between the Italian Alps, sparkling Lake Iseo is
perfectly unspoilt, with calm and quaint lakefront villages.
It’s an ideal place for cycling around and boasts an excellent
wine scene.
Basilicata
An adventurous lair
A patchwork of historical sights, rolling landscapes, and
historic hilltop villages with enviable panoramas, the southern
region of rural Basilicata is relatively unexplored despite
sharing a border with Puglia.
Iseo
A medieval lakeside town that’s set beneath forest-cloaked hills
and with an atmospheric historic centre.
DRINK
The classic method sparkling Franciacorta DOCG, which is a more
complex and arguably better wine than Prosecco.
STAY
Hotel Araba Fenice, an elegantly restored 19th century villa right
on the edge of the lake’s crystal-clear waters.
From £1,099 per person for 5 nights.
Matera
One of Italy’s oldest cities that’s crammed with provincial piazzas,
Benedictine churches, and unique cave museums.
VISIT
Sassi, a village-like sprawl of prehistoric stone houses that are
thought to have been home to Italy’s first settlers over 9,000
years ago.
STAY
Aquatio Cave Luxury Hotel & Spa, a charming boutique cave
hotel in the heart of the Sassi.
From £1,399 per person for 5 nights.
Autumn 2023
Andiamo!

Calabria
A beach haven
Right in the toe of Italy, Calabria is
located along a long peninsula of
sun-soaked beaches that rival the
Bahamas, and with the sparkling blue
waters of the Tyrrhenian Sea and
Ionian Sea on either side. Life feels
delightfully simpler and slower here.
Tropea
A terracotta-coloured fishing
village with golden cove
beaches, olive groves, and
vineyards.
DISCOVER
The annual culinary fish and
red onion festival, which takes
place every July.
Isola di Capo Rizzuto
A windswept town teeming with historic
landmarks and rugged hiking trails.
VISIT
Aragonese Castle, a 16th century fort
that stretches out into the Ionian Sea.
Ricadi
A charming rural town tucked
along the cliffs and home to
several archaeological sites.
STAY
Baia del Godano Resort &
Spa, a romantic and boutique
beachfront resort.
From £1,299 per person for
7 nights.
Lake Orta
A tiny beauty
Undoubtedly Northern Italy’s bestkept
secret, Lake Orta remains one of
the country’s most untouched areas.
Around its twinkling lake you’ll find
beautiful old towns with picturesque
streets, epic scenery, and fascinating
cultural and historic gems to explore.
Pettenasco
A tiny lakeside village brimming with
excellent local restaurants, medieval
houses, and a small beach.
STAY
Hotel Giardinetto, an elegant four-star
lakefront hotel with its own private
landing stage.
From £699 per person for 5 nights.
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Citalia.com

OFF-THE-BEATEN-TRACK
Umbria
A natural dream
With rolling hills and inviting valleys, Umbria lies right in the
heart of Italy and offers a rural retreat to enjoy pure silence.
Whenever it begins to feel a little too leisurely and calm,
you’ll be welcomed into incredible palaces, museums, and
Romanesque cathedrals.
Todi
A medieval hilltop town
hidden deep in the
countryside and unruffled
by modernity.
DISCOVER
Tiber River Park, a valley
below the town that’s
bursting with blooming
wildflowers.
Città di Castello
A historical city marked by great Renaissance walls and centuriesold
grand palaces.
EAT LOCAL
Feast on earthy dishes that feature the native lentils.
Assisi
A pristine pilgrim town and the birthplace of St. Francis.
VISIT
UNESCO World Heritage sites of Basilica of San Francesco
d’Assisi and Rocca Maggiore Fortress.
Perugia
A jumble of medieval splendour and Umbria’s capital city.
STAY
Hotel SINA Brufani, a five-star, luxurious hilltop hotel in the heart
of historic Perugia.
From £699 per person for 5 nights.
Discover your own hidden gem holiday with Citalia. Speak to one of our ​Personal Travel Planners on 01293 765061
Autumn 2023
Andiamo!

Art
&
Architecture
of Sicily
A new book was released in June this year that examines
the rich artistic heritage of Sicily, from prehistory to the
late 20th century. Published by Lund Humphries, it’s the
first of its kind in the English language. Citalia speaks to
the book’s author, the art historian Julian Treuherz.
You've spent part of each year in Sicily for the last
twenty years studying its art and architecture.
How did this first come about?
It was the 1990s when my partner Peter and I first went on a holiday
to Sicily. We liked it very much and in my travel diaries I wrote, I’m sure
we will return. Well, we did! We fell in love with the island - the climate
(which was not as extreme in the summer as it is nowadays), the food,
and, of course, the art and architecture.
We kept coming back every year and in 2003 we bought a small house
near Trapani on the west of the island. Since I retired from my role as
the Keeper of Art Galleries for National Museums Liverpool in 2007,
we tend to visit four or five times a year.
What attracted you to write the book?
There are plenty of academic books about the Greek temples and
Norman mosaics, but only one in English about Sicilian baroque,
(published over 50 years ago). Although there are general books about
Sicilian art in Italian, there is almost nothing in English and the subject
is not well-known outside Sicily.
We found everything so interesting, and it was Peter’s idea to bring it
all together in English.
Peter is an architectural historian who used to work for English Heritage.
When he became busy with his work, I did the research and writing, and
his photography illustrates the book.
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Why is Sicilian art and architecture so interesting?
It’s all to do with geography. Sicily is located right in the centre of the
Mediterranean, and so in the power struggles of history if you controlled
the island, you controlled the Mediterranean. There was a migration
out of Greece, not because the Greeks were trying to conquer but
more because they were in search of a new life. Then the Phoenicians,
a trading people came in, then Arab rulers, Normans, Germans, and
eventually the Spanish, who ruled for several centuries from the 16th
century. Then there are artists from Northern Italy who migrated there.
Sicily has this huge layering of art and architecture,
and each layer is influenced by the one before it
in a beautiful melange of culture.
Syracuse cathedral typifies this. It's been a place of worship since the
6th century BC. From the front it looks like a typical baroque building
with its scrolls and columns, but if you walk around the side, you see
Greek columns, because there was once a Greek temple on the site.
With the advent of Christianity, they filled in the space between the
columns and turned it into a church. It was altered at various times in
the Middle Ages, and you can see remnants from Greek, French, and
Spanish cultures.
I introduce this book with a quotation from a famous novel and
subsequent 1960s film starring Burt Lancaster called The Leopard. In this
there’s an ageing aristocrat bemoaning the fact that because Sicily was
frequently invaded or settled by others, the Sicilians had no art. Well,
my view is that the incoming people didn’t try to expunge the culture of
those who went before them, it was more a question of people coming
in and being influenced by their new environment.
There was one Norman king in particular, William II, who was fascinated
by the luxurious Arab lifestyle and would wear Arabic dress and had an
Arabic cook, as I mention in my book. During an earthquake William II
was heard telling everyone in his palace to ‘pray to whichever god they
fancied.’ It’s an incredibly progressive view for this time when people
were being persecuted for their religious beliefs in other countries.
Are there any materials or mediums that are unique
to Sicily?
I’ve got two examples. During the Greek period, the temples may look
like marble but were in fact built from stone with a marble-like white
coating. In the 17th century, lots of coloured marble was discovered
and subsequently used to decorate church interiors in a very particular
way, in a technique known as marmi mischi, or mixed marbles. This was
inlaid marble in very small, thin pieces, using the different colours to
create elaborate and intricate pictures and decorative motifs. You’ll find
landscape backgrounds for Biblical stories, also floral designs, animals,
and birds - and some church interiors are entirely covered in it. The
photo used for my book cover is from an altar made of this technique.
Detail of marmi mischi from Jesuit Church, Palermo.
Another specialism unique to Sicily is the use of coral. They found
coral in the reefs around Trapani and used it to make objects, such as
religious carved statuettes of saints and Jesus, as well as for the presepi
(nativity). These were sometimes made not just from coral but a mixture
of mother-of-pearl, alabaster, and sheet metal, which distinguished
these objects.
I highly recommend you visit the Museo Regionale Agostino Pepoli
in Trapani, which has a gorgeous collection of coral. Named after
its founder in the late 19th century, the museum was installed in a
converted monastery. It’s an absolute must-visit for visitors and one of
my favourite places in Sicily.
On an island so prone to natural disasters, how have
we been able to preserve Sicilian art?
Byzantine-style mosaics in the Palatine Chapel
at the Norman Royal Palace, Palermo.
For example, while the Norman kings did conquer Sicily, they brought in
Byzantine mosaicists to create wonderful mosaics in the 11th and 12th
centuries with a mix of styles. They were also extremely tolerant of other
religions and, rather than expelling the Arabs, Greek Christians, and
Jews, allowed them to worship freely, although with some restrictions to
their lifestyles, and their art influenced the new hybrid Norman culture.
There’s no other part of Italy that has had so many cultural influences.
It’s very close to North Africa and so you get a strong Arabic influence.
The Palazzo dei Normanni in Palermo may have been built by the
Normans but it’s got a distinct Arabian style.
Sadly, we haven’t been able to preserve it. Earthquakes are particularly
disruptive. Messina was hit by a massive earthquake in the 18th
century and another one in 1908 that meant the entire city had to be
rebuilt twice!
There is a silver lining in all this though, which is that when an
earthquake in 1693 completely destroyed western Sicily, new and
complete towns were planned and built in their own distinct, unified
way. These baroque period towns, such as Noto and Ragusa, are
incredibly picturesque with their golden stone - they are where the TV
series Inspector Montalbano was filmed.
One hundred or two hundred years ago, we didn’t have photography
or the means to record buildings to reconstruct them, so they were just
lost, but thankfully restoration techniques are much better today. The
Sicilians are wonderful craftspeople - they recreated many of the marmi
mischi that the British army shattered in the 1940s.
Autumn 2023
Andiamo!

ART & ARCHITECTURE OF SICILY
Your book highlights that more Greek temples were
built in Sicily than in Greece in the 6th century.
Why was this? And what legacy have these temples
left on the island?
I’ve no idea…and I wish I knew. However, the architectural legacy is
very strong. During the Grand Tour of Europe, no one ventured to Sicily
until the late 18th century, when a couple of guidebooks praised the
Greek temples. It attracted wealthy tourists and inspired 19th century
artists and architects who measured the temples to recreate neoclassical
architecture across Italy and even Britain!
Are there any other must-see, but perhaps lesserknown
works of arts in Sicily that you recommend
to Citalia guests?
Absolutely! I suggest you stop by Villa Igiea, a Rocco Forte Hotel in
Palermo for a drink. This palazzo was designed around 1900 by Ernesto
Basile, an award-winning architect and the pioneer of the Sicilian Liberty
movement, better known as art nouveau style to the rest of us. The
entire building is incredible but there’s one particular room, its hall of
mirrors that is completely intact with all the original furniture and light
fittings. It’s one of the best examples of art nouveau I’ve witnessed.
Your book also features works by Caravaggio. How did
Rome’s most famous painter find himself in Sicily?
Caravaggio arrived in Sicily towards the end of his life. After committing
murder, he escaped Rome and went to Malta where he got into further
trouble. That’s when he came to Sicily, where it appears the people
weren’t too bothered about his criminal behaviour and instead, he was
commissioned to paint.
If you visit the Interdisciplinary Regional Museum of Messina (MUME),
you’ll find two enormous paintings by the artist: The Adoration of the
Shepherds and the Raising of Lazarus, which are among his greatest
masterpieces. You’ll also find his painting Burial of Saint Lucy in a church
in Syracuse, not too far from Messina, so you can take a Caravaggio trail.
Front view of Syracuse cathedral showing
baroque frontage added 1728-1753
There was another great Caravaggio painting in Palermo, but it
was unfortunately stolen by the mafia in 1969 and has never been
recovered. It was a huge scandal, and you’ll still find stories in the local
media of someone saying they know where it is, however, it sadly may
no longer exist.
Also in Palermo is Palazzino Cinese, a Chinese palace that was built for
the royal family around 1800 and has wonderful, whimsical interiors,
including pagoda roofs, bells that tinkle, and richly-painted walls. One
room has been painted in the trompe-l'œil effect of creating an illusion
and looks like the roof has caved in, with moss and mould all over the
walls. It’s delightful. I could go on - there are plenty of suggestions in
my book!
Exclusive Reader Discount
Art and Architecture of Sicily by Julian Treuherz is available to purchase now.
Andiamo! readers are entitled to a 20% discount on the book when buying
direct from lundhumphries.com. Just scan this QR code and use the discount
code CITALIA at checkout. Valid until 31 December 2023.
A 4 night holiday in Sicily, staying at the Grand Hotel et des Palmes in Palermo, starts from £1,149 per person.
Speak to one of our ​Personal Travel Planners on 01293 765061
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How & Where to Spend
New Year
As bells peal from nearby churches, fireworks light up the sky, and you make
a toast with your glass of Prosecco, you’ll be so glad you chose to soak up
the atmosphere of New Year in Italy. Italy’s New Year traditions date back to
ancient times and are always focused on ensuring the year to come is a truly
prosperous one. Let Citalia take you into the heart of the celebrations.
Fire & Light
Like other parts of the world, fire and its
subsequent botti (bangs) are used to fend
off evil spirits and negativity at New Year,
and you’ll find huge firework displays and
bonfire ceremonies taking place, particularly
in Italy’s southern cities, such as Naples.
In homes, the Christmas log is often set
alight, with its ashes then placed in different
corners of the house as a way to protect the
family and residence.
You may also find the glow of a candle coming
from houses. These are lit just before midnight
and allowed to burn out completely, to
symbolise the passing of time, purification,
and renewal.
The Colour Red
Rosso - or red - is an incredibly important
colour at New Year. Not only is it symbolic of
fertility, but it’s also believed to attract luck.
Italians will don red clothing, a superstition
that’s thought to date back to the ancient
Romans, who would wear red to fend off war
and blood.
Brand new underwear - preferably purchased
by a loved one - is the popular red garment
of choice.
This love for red continues into the kitchen,
as pomegranates are often shared by partners
on the eve of San Silvestro, as it symbolises
fidelity, fertility, longevity, and wealth. Chilli
peppers are similarly considered auspicious.
Autumn 2023
Andiamo!

Food for Prosperity
Speaking of food, as you’d expect in Italy it plays a large role in New
Year customs!
A special New Year feast, known as Cenone di Capodanno is when
friends and families gather together for a multi-course meal. The
prepared dishes always depend on your geography.
In Italy’s northern regions such as Piedmont and Lombardy, risotto is
a favourite New Year’s dish, while in the south you’ll find several fish
courses being served.
It’s common to find recipes featuring lenticchie (lentils) across Italy as
these are believed to signify money. Grown in the region of Umbria,
their flat round shape looks like little coins, and it’s said that the more
you eat, the more likely you’ll attract wealth.
There’s also a sweet ritual in which you eat a single grape for every
ring of the midnight bell.
“We have an old rhyme that goes: Chi mangia l’uva per Capodanno,
maneggia i quattrini tutto l’anno - Whoever eats grapes on New Year,
will handle money all year,” explains Stefano Nirta, Citalia’s Regional
Destination Manager. “The meaning of this is that if you’ve been smart
enough to save your grapes from the autumn harvest then you’ll have
an abundant year.”
Pork is popular as it represents the richness of life, and
you’ll find slow-cooked cotechino, a large, spiced sausage
that’s served sliced, and zampone, a seasoned pig trotter
sausage that’s specially made in the town of Modena in
Northern Italy.
Traditional sweet cakes such as panettone and pandoro are frequently
served for dessert alongside dried fruits and nuts in Milan, while in
the south you’ll find Neapolitan delights such as struffoli (fried dough
balls dipped in honey), susamielli (spiced almond biscuits), raffioli (iced
sponge biscuits) and mostaccioli (chocolate-dipped sponge cake). In
Rome, you’ll find friends giving each other jars of dates and figs in
honey, alongside a bay branch, another symbol of good luck.
A Smashing Affair
Across southern Italy you may hear an almighty crash as the ritual of
il lancio dei cocci or buttare le cose vecchie occurs.
“This is a literal expression of out with the old, in with the new,” explains
Stefano. “People, particularly in Naples and Rome, will smash any old
crockery and glassware, and sometimes even furniture and cookware,
throwing them out of windows and balconies, clearing out the house
and making space for new things to come.”
The Year Ahead
If plates aren’t being thrown, then bacini - kisses - certainly will be, and
friends and family place them on both cheeks as is the custom.
It’s also believed that the first person you meet on the street after
midnight could predict what kind of year you’re going to have. If you
meet an elderly person then it’s likely your year is full of surprises,
however meeting a baby, doctor, or a priest could forecast an unlucky
year ahead.
Cotechino
Struffoli
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HOW AND WHERE TO SPEND NEW YEAR
Italy’s Top New Year Celebrations
Bologna
One of our favourite cities for celebrating New Year has to
be Bologna. Not only is it a beautifully elegant city with an
authentic spirit, you’ll find some of Italy’s oldest traditions.
Head to Piazza San Petronio to attend the Fiera del Bue
Grasso, otherwise known as the Fat Ox Fair. Here the
residents take time to adorn an ox with many colourful
ribbons, flowers, and other decorations, and there’s a raffle
in which the winner gets to take home the ox. Outside the
church, there’s always a fireworks display.
Meanwhile, in Piazza Maggiore, you’ll find a street market
and live musical performances. This is where you’ll locate the
traditional custom of Rogo del Vecchione - the Burning of the
Old Man, in which a giant straw puppet is fed to the flames
in an impressive bonfire.
Rome
Not only is The Eternal City a splendid backdrop for the New
Year with its beautiful archaeological wonders, but it’s also
filled with a whole 24 hours of festivities, featuring live music,
street parties, and fireworks! Head to one of Rome’s most
famous squares, Piazza del Popolo, for a New Year parade.
For a more elegant evening, the noble Villa Borghese usually
hosts a classical music performance accompanied by a
firework show, and delicious Lazio food.
If you’ve not been revelling too hard, then head to the Tiber
River before noon on January 1st. You’ll get to watch brave
souls hurl themselves into the cold, moving water from the
18 metre-high marble balustrade of Ponte Cavour, just as the
midday cannon is fired. This chilly dip is a ritual that dates
back to 1964.
SUGGESTED STAY: PHI Hotel Bologna - Al Cappello Rosso
SUGGESTED STAY: Hotel Forum
Milan
In the city of glamour, you’re spoilt for choice with how you
might like to spend your celebrations. There’s a free concert
filled with street performers, stand-up comedy, dancers, and
singers in the legendary Piazza Duomo, right by the city’s
beautiful cathedral. Or you might wish to head to a special
operatic performance with an evening at the esteemed Teatro
alla Scala. There’s also plenty of chic bars and haute cuisine
restaurants to celebrate in style.
Venice
For a touch of enchantment and romance at New Year, Venice
shines. Surrounded by beautiful palazzos and the Grand
Canal, you can take your spot to watch fireworks over the
twinkling waters - we recommend Punta della Dogana as
a perfect vantage point. Or you can join the crowds in San
Marco and listen to the countdown from the impressive bell
tower of the basilica. Meanwhile, the breathtaking Teatro La
Fenice holds its annual New Year’s concert.
SUGGESTED STAY: SINA De La Ville
SUGGESTED STAY: Londra Palace Venezia
Turin
The beautiful baroque and neoclassical piazzas of Turin
encompass several musical celebrations, the most popular
being in Piazza San Carlo. Meanwhile along the banks of the
Po River you’ll find more crowds gathering for a marvellous
fireworks display.
Florence
Spend New Year at home - but that shouldn’t stop you celebrating!
You heard us right…right up until 1750, the gorgeous Tuscan
capital of Florence lived by an earlier Christian calendar, which
meant that the 25th of March marked the New Year. Even today,
the city still celebrates twice.
SUGGESTED STAY: Grand Hotel Sitea
SUGGESTED STAY: Hotel Berchielli
Are you tempted to spend your New Year in Italy? Speak to one of our ​Personal Travel Planners on 01293 765061
Autumn 2023
Andiamo!

HOW ABOUT A
Small Group
Escorted Tour?
Have you heard about Citalia’s small group escorted tours? These
are our tried and tested holidays where you can enjoy highlights of a
particular region supported by your own expert local guide.
We’ve crafted our Small Group Escorted Tours to ensure you get
the most out of a particular destination, ensuring you hit all the
highlights while still enjoying your own private leisure time.
These tours are the perfect introduction to exploring a new region.
(And if you really like a particular place, then you can always return
for a more in-depth tailor-made holiday.)
You don’t need to worry about a thing, as all your transportation and
the little details are taken care of - all you need to do is show up!
Conducted as a small group escorted tour, there’s a maximum of
18 people on each one, which makes them an ideal holiday for solo
travellers, couples, or small groups of friends.
You’ll find an array of activities and experiences that are both
personal and immersive, bringing regions to life. And the day-to-day
travel is always broken up with interesting sightseeing and activities,
be that a cooking class or a wine-tasting.
Our local guides are expert storytellers and offer
so much more than you’d find in a guidebook.
Our exclusive tours include your accommodation, breakfast and
other selected meals, transfers, and professional English-speaking
local guides.
What’s more, all our Small Group Escorted Tours are completely
exclusive to Citalia - you simply won’t find them anywhere else!
Dates of our 2024 tours have just been released.
Our bestselling tours can fill up quickly, so book
early to avoid disappointment. To find out more,
visit Citalia.com/holiday-types/italy-tours
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Our Gastronomic Highlights
of Emilia Romagna
Small Group Escorted Tour
New for 2024, Citalia has created an exclusive small group escorted tour of
Emilia Romagna, the region that’s dubbed Cucina Italiana - the kitchen of Italy.
It’s here where you’ll find the birthplace of several ingredients synonymous with
Italian cookery, including fresh pasta ribbons, prosciutto, balsamic vinegar,
and Parmigiano Reggiano. The base for your tour is Bologna, both the capital
and largest city of Emilia Romagna, and it’s the place to whet your appetite.
DAY 1
Arriving at Bologna Airport, you’ll be met by a
private chauffeur-driven car or minivan and taken to
your centrally located hotel, the four-star Art Hotel
Commercianti, where you’ll be welcomed by an Englishspeaking
representative. If you arrive in the morning,
then you have plenty of time to unwind or acquaint
yourself with a wander around the city streets. At
dinnertime, join your fellow group members for a special
four-course welcome meal in a typical trattoria within
easy walking distance of the hotel. You’ll get your first
taste of regional classics, including tortellini Bolognesi.
DAY 2
After a good night’s sleep, the following morning you can enjoy
breakfast at the hotel, before meeting your English-speaking
local guide who will take you on a half day walking tour of
Bologna, a beautiful city with its weaving porticoes, spritely
markets, bustling arcades, and streets shadowed by medieval
towers and ancient terracotta roofs.
DAY 3
After breakfast at the hotel, you’ll depart by private bus to
FICO World Eataly, a delicious Italian food theme park that
celebrates the diversity of Italian food products. You’ll spend
the full day here enjoying a pasta-making class and, at the end
of your lesson, you can tuck into a light lunch of tagliatelle.
After lunch, you’ll return to Bologna where you have the
afternoon and evening to yourself. Bologna is renowned for its
prestigious automobile design, and museums that house works
from renowned figures including Michelangelo and Mozart, so
you may wish to take in one or two.
Autumn 2023
Andiamo!

SMALL GROUP ESCORTED TOUR
DAY 4
After breakfast on your fourth day, you’ll be heading
north of Bologna to Parma, the birthplace of Italy’s renowned cheese,
Parmigiano Reggiano, which was first concocted by monks in medieval times to use
excess milk. Enjoy a half day walking tour of the city with a local guide.
As the name implies, Parma is also famous for a particular cured meat, Parma ham,
and so after your tour you’ll head to the Ham Museum for a guided tour, enjoying
a light lunch of different cold cuts, regional fried bread, and giardiniera (pickled
vegetables), as well as local wine from the Parma Hills, followed by coffee.
Afterwards, you’ll then take a guided tour of a prestigious Parmigiano Reggiano dairy
and cheese factory to learn about the various stages of milk processing and cheese
maturation. Enjoy a cheese tasting in three maturation stages, served up with crostino
and special Parmigiano Reggiano cream water or a glass of Lambrusco or Malvasia
reserva wine. Back in Bologna, you have the evening at leisure.
DAY 5
After another breakfast at the hotel, you’ll board your
private bus to take the 50-minute journey to Modena,
located northwest of Bologna, and the world-famous
home of balsamic vinegar. Production here dates back
centuries, and the quality you find in this region is superior
to any other, which is why it’s guarded by D.O.P status
(Denominazione di Origine Protetta). Take a guided tour of
Modena with your English-speaking guide, finishing up in an
acetaia (professional vinegar factory) for a balsamic tasting
and a light lunch. You’ll then head back to Bologna to get
ready for the farewell dinner with your group.
DAY 6
After
breakfast,
it’s time to
say your
goodbyes.
You’ll be taken
by private car
or minivan
to Bologna
Airport in time
for your flight
home.
Citalia’s Exclusive Small Escorted Foodie Tour is taking place several times throughout 2024. From £2,199 per person for 5 nights.
If you’re interested, speak to one of our Personal Travel Planners on 01293 765061
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ADVERTORIAL
Lakeside Style
With Grand Hotel Victoria
Enter into the jetsetting spirit of Lake Como with a stay
in this iconic five-star lakeside retreat.
Step Back in Time
Surrounded by beautiful gardens and just a five-minute stroll to
the quaint cobbled town of Menaggio, Grand Hotel Victoria is an
absolute beauty of a hotel. This neoclassical building has graced the
lake’s shores since the 19th century, and was once a residence that
hosted many a soiree with distinguished guests.
Today though, you’ll find an impressive marriage between the
hotel’s classical design and chic contemporary interiors. From the
tall, large windows with their traditional shutters that look out
onto Lake Como’s glittering waters and over emerald green hills,
to the twinkling chandeliers that adorn the public areas, a touch of
grandeur is never far away.
The Liberty era style is also incorporated, adding a touch of
elegance to the sumptuous rooms and suites, with inviting velvet
armchairs, and polished gold amenities.
Yet, the hotel is distinctly minimal and clean, with neutral tones
that bring a lightness to your surroundings. This is best seen in the
added accommodation wing, a striking yet sympathetic palazzo in
its own right.
Italian craftsmanship is at its best here as only local
materials and handmade products have been used,
as per the hotel’s Made in Italy art concept.
Soothe Your Soul
You have the perfect excuse to visit Lake Como at its quietest, with
the hotel’s inspired and extensive Erre Spa. This exclusive refuge is
ideal for winter days or if you seek some restoration of your own.
Start out in the comfort zone, which cocoons you with warming
fireplaces and modern chaise longues.
Once you’ve found your place of calm, head into an impressive
and enchanting waterworld that you can play or unwind in as
you wish, filled with tropical and waterfall showers, an ice room,
and chromatherapy.
There’s a Himalayan salt room to rebalance your energies, a Turkish
bath to breathe in aromas and essences, and a starry-skied salt
water jacuzzi. You’ll also find a swimming pool just for relaxing in,
and two heart-warming wood saunas.
There are four treatment cabins, Breath, Balance, Energy, and
Harmony, where you can be further pampered by the spa
professionals with face and body rituals personalised just for you.
Your expectations will always be exceeded with a soulful stay at
Grand Hotel Victoria.
A 4 night holiday in Lake Como, staying at Grand Hotel Victoria, starts from £1,275 per person.
Speak to one of our ​Personal Travel Planners on 01293 765061
Autumn 2023
Andiamo!

Ultimate Road Trips
ADVERTORIAL
Avis offers strategically located pick-up points across Italy, so whether you arrive
by air, land or sea, you can enjoy a quick and easy check-in, giving you more
time to spend exploring Italy’s incredible landscapes and historic sites.
Tuscan Coast
& Liguria
With the help of our friends at Avis, our Ultimate Road Trips
itineraries are carefully designed so that you can easily
explore our favourite hidden destinations across Italy. There’s
always plenty to do at each stop, so if you wish to swap any
details or add more nights to our suggested itineraries then
our Personal Travel Planners are here to help.
This season, we take you on a fortnight-long road trip through the idyllic
Tuscan Coast and Liguria, which starts and ends at the international
airport for your convenience. Stay in our handpicked selection of
authentic accommodation that reflects these lesser-visited regions.
Days 1-5 Viareggio
Start your journey in Pisa, where you can pick up your hire car from the
airport. We suggest you head straight to the coastal town of Viareggio,
a 30-minute drive away, to immediately tune into the holiday spirit with
its six miles of beautiful coastline.
Take long strolls on the palm-lined promenade, which is backed by
dramatic art deco architecture. A former playground for the rich and
famous, the Italian composer Puccini once resided here and has a
museum dedicated to his life and music.
Using Viareggio as your base, we encourage you to escape to golden
beaches and their bagni (beach clubs), such as Lido di Camaiore, just a
15-minute drive north.
Or you might like to drive to the historic walled city of Lucca, 30
minutes away, where you can get lost in its labyrinthine pedestrianised
cobbled streets and quaint Renaissance piazzas.
Suggested Stay: Grand Hotel Royal - Viareggio
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ADVERTORIAL
Days 6-8 Portovenere
Take the delightful drive along the coast north to Portovenere, which
takes about an hour, and check into your hotel, a former 13th century
Franciscan convent. This small and calm seaside town is unashamedly
colourful with brightly-painted houses by the waterfront.
The port encloses an age-old hilltop military fort, Castello Doria,
which is worth a visit for amazing views over the Ligurian Sea.
Take a day trip or two to explore the pretty clifftop villages of the
Cinque Terre, which are surrounded by easy hiking trails.
Explore Portofino, an ever-so vogue town that will deceive you upon
first glance with its jumble of terracotta roofs tumbling from the hills.
It’s the perfect place for designer shopping and a decadent lunch.
Suggested Stay: Grand Hotel Portovenere
Days 9-11 Rapallo
Your next stop is Rapallo, at the heart of the Italian Riviera with its
inviting beaches and historical art nouveau buildings, an hour and a
half’s drive away. Rapallo oozes romance, with its artisan shops, cafés,
and local restaurants among its nooks and crannies. Stroll to the end of
the promenade to witness the 16th century Castello sul Mare (Castleon-the-Sea),
which seemingly rises out of the waters.
Explore Genoa, the Ligurian capital, a 30-minute drive away, to discover
the grand street of Via Garibaldi, a UNESCO World Heritage site due to
its 42 palaces.
Suggested Stay: Excelsior Palace Portofino Coast - Rapallo
Days 12-14 Forte Dei Marmi
As you get closer to the end of your holiday it’s time to properly unwind
- and where better than in one of Tuscany’s original beach resorts?
Forte Dei Marmi has always had a glamorous appeal with famous
residents such as the opera great Andrea Bocelli and fashion legend
Giorgio Armani. Time your holiday to make the Wednesday local market
for stalls filled with designer clothes, luxury cashmere, and leather goods.
Embrace the watersports and al fresco restaurants serving up fresh
seafood and drinks with glorious sea views, and visit the many
gorgeous beaches nearby, such as the family-friendly Bagno Angelo
with its soft sands and shallow waters, or Bagno Santa Maria, home to
lavish facilities.
If you’re still keen to explore, head to the sparkling lake in Torre del Lago,
just a 30-minute drive away, and enjoy its renowned open-air theatre.
Or get up early to spend a day in Florence, an hour and a half away.
On your last morning, it’s time to drive the 40 minutes back to Pisa,
where you can do a last-minute visit to the world-famous Leaning Tower
or a spot of shopping before your flight back home.
Suggested Stay: Hermitage Hotel & Resort
Our 14 day Avis Ultimate Road Trip of the Tuscan Coast
& Liguria starts from £2,799 per person.
Speak to one of our Personal Travel Planners on 01293 765061
Autumn 2023
Andiamo!

Stop & Sip
on Italy's Wine Trail
The humble grape intimately connects to the terroir from which it's grown.
So, what better way to get to know your holiday destination than sipping
on an appropriate wine from the region?
Did you know that Italy is home to more grape varieties
than anywhere else in the world? In fact, every
province in Italy produces wine!
We asked the esteemed Richard Bampfield to
recommend some suitable wine pairings with a few
of our favourite destinations.
Richard’s been an accredited Master of Wine for
over 30 years and, after graduating from Cambridge
University, he headed into vineyards and cellars
around the world. Today, he is probably best known for
evaluating wines and writing tasting notes for Lidl.
“There’s a few things you need to know about Italian
wine before we consider the different regions,” says
Richard. “It’s actually our sense of smell that informs
the taste of the wine, which is why it’s worth sniffing
prior to you sipping.”
Richard also recommends you match a regional dish
to wine from the same region if you can, as “culturally
and socially the two have evolved together.”
“Another thing that confuses people are the wine
appellations. DOC status applies to the protected
region of where the wine comes from, which means
it’s a guarantee of origin, not necessarily a guarantee
of quality.”
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When in Campania, drink…
Falanghina
Campania is famed for the simplicity of its cuisine. You’ll always
find fresh, seasonal ingredients and a lot of fish, given its stunning
coastline. With this in mind, Richard recommends the dry white wine
Bellamico, Falanghina Beneventano, which offers a good flavour on
the palate and has a certain fruitiness with hints of apple.
“It pairs well with light fish or pasta dishes. Italian whites tend not to
be the showiest of wines, often relying more on balance and sheer
drinkability,” adds Richard. “Bellamico, Falanghina Beneventano is
a good example, offering delicate aromas of stone fruit and a nice
roundness on the palate, finishing dry and refreshing.”
When in Veneto, drink…
Chiaretto
In terms of the wine scene, Veneto is best known for its Prosecco Hills,
located about an hour and a half north of Venice. However, Richard
recommends something a little different - a dry and lightly fruity rosé
wine, Bardolino Chiaretto. Produced in the vineyards to the east of
Lake Garda, it’s easy to drink but adds a little spritz to liven the palate.
“With rosé becoming more fashionable, chiaretto is a traditional style
that is now coming into its own”, says Richard. “There's no shame in
having a slightly deeper colour than Provence rosé and in fact I would
say that this leads to greater fruit and flavour. It’s simply delicious, light,
and appetising - and highly versatile with or without food.”
Richard’s top tip for this rosé is to use frozen fruit to keep the wine
chilled, such as strawberry, which adds a delicate flavour. He also
suggests that you keep your bottle in the fridge to keep it fresh,
as, "the UV from sunlight can damage wine in clear bottles."
When in Sicily, drink…
Nero d'Avola
The largest island in the Mediterranean, Sicily boasts an exciting source
of wine, given that it has been influenced by diverse civilisations over
the centuries. Sicilian cuisine is a major draw to the island, from the
street food culture found in the capital of Palermo, to fine dining at the
numerous Michelin-starred restaurants the island hosts.
Richard is ready to let us in on a little secret - the best Sicilian reds tend
to come from the volcanic soil around Mount Etna. One such wine is
Nero D’Avola, which is flavoursome, refreshing, and smooth, and isn’t
too dry.
“Nero d’Avola is a really well-made red from the most popular red grape
in Sicily," adds Richard. “It’s modern in style in that it is fresh and fruitdriven,
relatively low in tannin, and therefore easy to drink on its own,
as well as with food.”
When in Tuscany, drink…
Chianti
Tuscany really does offer that quintessential Italian countryside holiday.
Think cypress trees, rolling valleys of vines, sunflowers, hilltop towns,
and ever-changing landscapes.
One of the most breathtaking views in Tuscany has to be the Chianti
Hills, and so naturally our bottle of choice has to be a Chianti, which is
not too heavy and pairs well with many dishes. Richard recommends
the Talosa, Chianti Colli Senesi, found in the vineyards to the
southeast of Siena.
“It’s a more classic and traditional style of Italian red that’s made from
Tuscany's signature grape, Sangiovese”, explains Richard. “It’s somehow
more savoury in style and with a little more tannin, resulting in a drier
finish. However, it is still well-rounded on the palate and therefore an
excellent match for most Italian pasta and pizza dishes.”
Would you like a tailor-made holiday based around these impressive wine regions? Speak to one of our Personal Travel Planners on 01293 765061
Autumn 2023
Andiamo!

THE
Italophiles
Diane and Kevin Hadley are not only
long-standing Citalia guests - they could also
be described as Italophiles. Discover their
favourite experiences from over the years.
We love everything about Italy…
The food, the culture, getting around, and the people. We’ve always
found that people are really keen to help you.
I feel like we’ve been everywhere in Italy. We’ve stayed in some
fantastic hotels and places.
Our Personal Travel Planner Romina Locci really is our shining star,
we’ve been going with her and Citalia since 2007 and so she really
knows what we like and talks to us like a friend. She’s always given us
good sound advice.
We’ve got a big occasion next year as we're both turning 70, so it’s
going to be a difficult decision on where in Italy we celebrate!
We frequently visit
Romina occasionally rings us up with a good offer. At times they’re a
little out of season but these have ended up being some of our best
experiences, such as a particular stay right in the heart of Siena!
Before we retired, we would travel to Italy once or twice a year but
for the last two years, we’ve been going three or four times a year.
We tend to book early so that we get to stay where we want -
flights can always be sorted out later.
We were in Sardinia earlier this year staying at Stella Maris in
Villasimius, a hotel we stayed in last year for 11 nights that Romina
knew we would like. Even in a year they’ve made marvellous
enhancements - they’re obviously putting money back into the hotel.
A week is a good time to spend here, as you’re right on the beach.
You can take a car or taxi to get into the town, but we found a little
route that allows you to walk to the marina from the beach, and so we
did that most days. We also stayed in Rapallo on the Ligurian coast at
Easter, which was great for avoiding summer crowds.
We’ve been to Venice in all seasons, and Calabria in September, which
was really lovely and hot. We like to visit Italy when the sun’s out,
although cities can get very warm, so we prefer to go to these in June.
This year we travelled from Florence and Bologna to the heel of Italy
in Puglia.
Italy’s trains are amazing
We love to take the train as you can get around so easily - it’s not like
the UK where it can be a nightmare - and the trains are fast! Our only tip
is that when you’re in the station, be sure you know the train number,
as the board only shows the final destination, not the other stops.
We always travel first-class so we can fill up on
coffee, Prosecco, and snack boxes. We can both
enjoy looking out the window, as no one has to
concentrate on the road. Sometimes we see places
we like the look of and make a plan to visit -
we’ve done that with a few beaches along the coast.
We combine the city and beach
We love Italy’s beach resorts, and so we always try to pair a city or
two with the beach at the end. We don’t see the point in going to just
one place. We use the city as our base to travel to smaller surrounding
places by rail. For example, when we were in Bologna, we took day
trips to Ferrara, Moderna, Parma, Padua, and Ravenna, all for less than
€10 each time!
If we feel like exploring from our beach resort, then we usually ask
the hotel to sort a car to drop us somewhere and then pick us up
again in three hours or however long we want to be there. When we
are in Viareggio on the Tuscan coast we’ll go to Lucca, Montecatini
Terme, or Florence. And when we’re in Puglia, we make sure we go
to Polignano a Mare, Ostuni, and Alberobello.
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I love how in Calabria you can spot the little tuk tuks
with their red onions and chillies dangling from them.
We love to wander
You can sit in a café in a piazza for as long as you like without anyone
pestering or rushing you and people-watch, and this gives you a sense
of a place. So does wandering around.
We love boutique hotels
We like staying in smaller boutique hotels - Canne Bianche Lifestyle
Hotel in Puglia’s Torre Canne di Fasano is fantastic. It’s family-owned
and the owners always talk to you. We saw it being renovated
and over the years go from a three-star plus hotel to an absolutely
beautiful and spotlessly clean five-star hotel.
We tend to not be too extravagant during our city stays as it’s just a
bed for the night, but we always book a sea view room with a balcony
on the coast. Having said that, we've stayed at Nationale right in
Rome’s Parliament Square, and the Brunelleschi Hotel in Florence,
where we could almost touch the duomo!
We always talk to local people
Chat with someone in the hotel, a bar or a shop, and you’ll get some
fantastic local recommendations, which you might not have thought
about. One of the staff at Stella Maris recommended we visit Scilla
when we go to Tropea next year, which we now plan to do! We make
a point of being kind to the hotel staff, it must be difficult working in
the heat.
When we were in Alberobello an old lady who lived in one of the
trullis invited us to look inside her home, and then we got to see olives
being pressed! In Cefalù you only need to roam the side streets to find
amazing restoration workshops, and the same goes for Florence with
its stonemason studios and artisan jewellery shops when you walk
away from the main streets.
We were in Florence and saw a huge queue for the Uffizi Gallery
and wondered why. It turns out all the museums are free on the first
Sunday of every month. We decided to skip the queue and in doing
so we stumbled upon a small medical museum, which was fascinating!
We always try new flavours
We always try the local regional food. We’re not big meat eaters but
we will always give new fish and pasta dishes a try as they are so tasty.
Romina recommended we try cacio e pepe in Florence, which is simply
grated Pecorino Romano cheese and black pepper with spaghetti. It’s
delicious. Sicily is aubergine mad, and we love melanzane caponata,
melanzane parmigiana - and even aubergine cheesecake. Be sure to try
tartufo gelato in Calabria too!
It’s hard to choose a favourite city
Each city brings their own character. Bologna was a real surprise when
we first visited six years ago and continues to be a favourite.
If we had to choose our favourite, it would be between Rome and
Venice, although Rome probably just edges it. Every time you turn a
corner you find a surprise, and it’s worth taking your time to wander
and be inquisitive.
While it may seem cliche, the highlights are such
for a reason. The first time we saw the Vatican and
St. Peter’s Basilica, it took our breath away!
We love just sitting around the Trevi Fountain and Spanish Steps
people-watching, or walking to the Colosseum around dusk where you
can see the policeman popping up in his white helmet and gloves at the
roundabout, where no one takes notice of him - the traffic is loopy!
It was a long time ago, but we still remember the magical tummy turn
as we sailed down the Grand Canal in Venice on a gondola! It was just
amazing, getting goosebumps and a little shiver. Nowadays, we love
jumping on and off the vaporetto and traghetto.
When in Italy you have to have an Aperol Spritz and try the local wine!
We love vermentino wine in Sardinia, the primitivo in Puglia, and the
red lambrusco wine in Bologna.
Italy puts us at ease
We love how by the coast everyone walks into the shallows up to
their armpits to cool off - and we’ve found ourselves doing this now
too. We obviously look comfortable and confident in Italy, as people
often start speaking to Diane in Italian. We mainly cook Italian food
at home, so perhaps the spirit is seeping into us!
Create your perfect Italian experience! Speak to one of our ​Personal Travel Planners on 01293 765061
Autumn 2023
Andiamo!

THE MODERN
Art Giant
OF ITALY
Turin’s contemporary art scene inspires
even the most novice of art enthusiasts.
Turin is not an obvious place for modern
art - this northern Italian city has always
enjoyed being out of the limelight, even
though it lies less than an hour from Milan
by train. Yet, amid its industrial and baroque
architecture and historic car manufacturing
factories lies a buzzing scene of art galleries
and exhibitions that often challenge your
perception of what modern art is.
Contemporary artists flock to this
unassuming Alpine nest to share their latest
exhibits, and throughout the year you'll find
launch and interpretation nights in the city’s
social and cultural calendar.
If the Venice Biennale is too busy for you,
then you can always head to the Turin
Triennale to get some fresh perspective
on experimental art. Coordinated by the
city’s principal modern art museums and
foundations, you’ll find both emerging and
internationally-acclaimed artists present.
In the winter months, you may also notice
epic light installations cheering up the
streets with Luci d’Artista, an open-air
public collection of contemporary art.
Dive right into this modern art hub.
Fondazione Merz
Set in a 1930s power station and dedicated to the late
Italian artists Mario and Marissa Merz, this is an intimate
whitewashed gallery that explores the Fibonacci sequence,
which was so integral to Mario’s work. You’ll also find
temporary exhibitions from national and international artists.
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Sandretto Re Rebaudengo Foundation
In the minimalist space of a former Fergat automobile factory
lies a not-for-profit dedicated art space. Initially it was set up
to exhibit the art collector’s own art, but today it also holds
temporary exhibitions and commissions new works that have
garnered international attention.
Artissima
Italy’s first international contemporary art fair. This year
the fair celebrates its 30th edition with the theme Relations
of Care and takes place from Friday 3rd of November to
Sunday 5th of November 2023 at Oval Lingotto.
Castello di Rivoli
Pinacoteca Agnelli
On the roof of Turin’s former Fiat factory in Lingotto lies this
unique gallery, right opposite the famous rooftop automobile
test track. You’ll find work from the likes of Tracey Emin,
Francis Bacon, and Sarah Lucas, as well as collections from
Matisse, Picasso, Severini, Manet, Renoir, and Modigliani.
Peeking out of the hills of the city’s suburbs lies the baroque
Castello di Rivoli, once a royal residence of The House of
Savoy. Today it exhibits a rotating display of its 300-strong
permanent collection of contemporary art, as well as
temporary exhibitions. Hanging from the castle ceiling you may
see Maurizio Cattelan’s controversial Novecento, a taxidermied
horse. While visiting, head a couple of minutes down the road
to witness a historic collection of art at Villa Cerruti.
CAMERA
In the city’s centro storico lies a huge space that pays homage
to Italian and international photography. In addition to three
main exhibitions, you’ll also find a few smaller installations.
If you wish to learn professional techniques and tips, you
can check out the centre’s programme of events or join its
photography workshops.
GAM Torino
You know you’ve reached Galleria Civica d'Arte Moderna e
Contemporanea when you find an uprooted tree balancing
in the air outside its entrance. Inside, you’ll find rooms upon
rooms of works that make up the 45,000 strong permanent
collection, as well as interesting seasonal exhibitions where
you can embrace the unconventional.
A 4 night holiday in Turin, staying at Principi di Piemonte | UNA Esperienze, starts from £749 per person.
Speak to one of our ​Personal Travel Planners on 01293 765061
Autumn 2023
Andiamo!

The Perfect Pick Me Up:
Espresso
The small yet mighty espresso is a quintessential part
of daily Italian routine. Discover its origins and position
in the country’s culture.
The espresso. It’s not a bean, it’s not a roast…
It’s quite simply a method of brewing: to get the most concentrated
form of coffee in the speediest of ways. The outcome? A delightfully
intense and rich shot of coffee that celebrates the essence of the bean.
It can be drunk first thing in the morning, or as a pick me up in the
afternoon.
Some coffee historians would label espresso as the first instant coffee,
however that would be insulting to Italians, as it’s a drink of good
chemistry and ritual combined.
Like most Italian culinary traditions,
there’s an art to the espresso.
The production of an espresso is incredibly uncomplicated, using
just hot water and 100% finely ground coffee. However, careful
precision dictates its perfection: you must delicately balance the grind,
temperature, and pressure.
The barista is of equal importance to the bean quality and machine
efficiency, as dictated by what’s known as the ‘four m’s’: maccina,
macinazione, miscela, mano (the machine, the proper grinding, the
coffee blend and roast, and the skilled hands).
A History of Italian Coffee
Coffee was first discovered and sipped as standard in the Arabian
Peninsula, before being imported into Europe throughout the 16th
and 17th centuries where a flourishing café culture grew - but not
initially in Italy.
When coffee reached the port city of Venice, the church initially
opposed it, believing it to be the drink of the devil due to its energising
properties. Thankfully all this changed in the 18th century when Pope
Clement VIII tasted coffee for the first time and enjoyed it so much
that he gave his papal approval.
The drink quickly became a favourite among artistic and literary circles
and specialist cafés were created, like Venice’s Caffè Florian in San
Marco Piazza, which was established in 1720 and remains open for
business today.
Brewed in the traditional Turkish method in the
19th century Italian coffee houses, it would take
five minutes for each individual cup of coffee.
By the 1930s, gentlemen’s coffee houses began to be replaced with
easy-going coffee bars for the working classes. These were fast-paced
environments, where customers would stand, have a shot of espresso,
then head right back to work. As part of Mussolini’s fascism campaign,
the word barman was replaced by an Italianised version: barista.
Even today, particularly in neighbourhood piazzas, you’ll find people
having an espresso standing up, and it’s a sentimental ritual for most
Italians, having witnessed their forefathers doing it.
The Italian coffee culture influenced the world, as most drinks and
cafés now use the Italian-style extraction as the base for all coffee
drinks.
If you drink a cappuccino in Italy, you’ll notice it has far less milk than
most British cappuccinos - and even the espresso will taste different -
and that’s something Italians don’t take lightly.
Incredibly proud of their coffee culture, the Italian government
has frequently tried to restrict the phrase Italian espresso, making
thwarted appeals to the World Trade Organisation, while Italian
roasting companies have lodged several unsuccessful complaints
in American courts.
While the Italian coffee culture may be global, there’s only one place
in the world to truly appreciate it: Italy.
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An Espresso in Time
1884
The steam age may be ending, but Torinese inventor Angelo Moriondo secures a patent for using new
steam machinery to brew large batches of coffee, which causes a stir at the Turin General Exposition.
For unknown reasons, the machine is never produced commercially.
1901
A Milanese inventor Luigi Bezzara patents a different kind of quick-coffee machine.
1905
Desidero Pavoni purchases Bezzera’s parent and mass produces the first commercial espresso machine: the Ideale.
1906
Ideale is released at the 1906 World Fair in Milan, and Pavoni goes solo. Branding the machine with the name espresso,
he advertises that it can produce 1,000 cups of coffee per hour.
1920s
The word espresso enters the Italian dictionary and daily language. Milanese inventor Pier Teresio Arduino,
who has a large workshop, starts exporting his machines across Europe.
1927
Giuseppe Bambi, a brass artisan from Florence, is approached by a businessman to build espresso machines.
They don’t sell, so Bambi gets his brother involved, and they successfully bring their first machine, La Marzocco, to market.
1938
Replacing the original espresso machines, which forced steam through coffee creating a burnt flavour, a new spring piston pump is
developed by Marco Cremonesi, which forces hot rather than boiling water through the coffee, giving it a more natural taste.
1940s
A Milanese barista-turned-inventor uses Cremonesi’s idea to create the first hand-pumped lever machine
that exerts more pressure, meaning a cup can be made in just 15 seconds, and in turn makes the first crema.
1961
Milanese Carlo Ernesto Valente introduces the Faema E61 espresso machine, the father of modern espresso machines.
1970
An espresso machine with two independent boilers, one for steam, and one for brewing coffee, is built by La Marzocco.
Today
Italian espresso culture continues to thrive, despite globalisation.
Autumn 2023
Andiamo!

Urban Chic Bars
Italy’s bar scene is epic. Whether
you’re looking for incredible mixology,
quirky experiences, or wish to flirt
with history, Citalia’s handpicked
selection is ready to be sipped up.
This season, we take you to
Italy's coolest city bars.
Bar Quanto Basta | Lecce
Within Lecce’s historic centre lies Bar Quanto Basta,
which whips up classic and original cocktails amid ancient
brick-vaulted arches. The bar is casually understated, with
friendly and professional staff. And, with tables outside,
it’s your perfect aperitivi spot in Puglia.
A 4 night holiday at Risorgimento Resort in Lecce
starts from £1,079 per person
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L'Antiquario Napoli | Naples
Step right back into the 1920s! Expect art nouveau wallpaper
and comfortable furniture in this atmospheric, speakeasyinspired
hideaway in downtown Naples. Not only will you find
an inspiring selection of classic and contemporary cocktails,
on Wednesdays L'Antiquario plays live jazz. At number
46 on the World’s Best Bars 2022 catalogue and the
establishment of award-winning imaginative bartender,
Alex Frezza, it’s well worth a visit.
A 4 night holiday at Palazzo Alabardieri in Naples
starts from £699 per person
The Court | Rome
Gain a whole new perspective of the Colosseum and the
Ludus Magnus in an inspiring al fresco ambience, with a
pit stop at The Court. Housed out of the hotel Palazzo
Manfredi, this cocktail bar came number 77 on the
World’s Best Bars 2022, with its wide array of high-tech,
contemporary mixology. ‘Redistillation & imagination’,
‘Seasonal & aromatic’ and ‘Bright & refreshing’ are just
some of the lists on the menu. Be sure to go at night
for an illuminating Roman experience.
A 4 night holiday at Hotel Nazionale in Rome
starts from £569 per person
Autumn 2023
Andiamo!

URBAN CHIC BARS
Il Locale | Florence
Turn down a narrow alleyway and enter an 800-year-old
Renaissance palazzo, home to Locale Firenze, a lavish
watering hole that’s sprawled across several rooms and in
every nook and cranny, including within the stone cellars.
Upstairs you’ll find elegant colonnades, preserved ceiling
frescoes, sculptures, and hanging greenery, while downstairs
has a more rustic and industrial vibe. Not only does the
historic Italian architecture ensure its prime position as
number 39 on the World’s Best Bars 2022 lineup, but the artthemed
cocktails seem to come to life. Inspired by sculptures,
floral paintings, and served in beautiful, handcrafted
glassware, there’s a touch of alchemy to every drink.
A 4 night holiday at Brunelleschi Hotel in Florence
starts from £699 per person
Jerry Thomas | Rome
Get your Old Fashioned and slink into one of the
leather couches at a speakeasy style bar in the
heart of Rome. Named after the father of American
mixology, Jerry Thomas serves up a seductive
journey through time with its Prohibition-era decor
and bartending costumes of suspenders, bowties,
waistcoats, and even the odd fedora. A world of
dimly-lit corners, billowy tobacco smoke, rituals,
rules, and jazz awaits. To add to its coveted charm,
a token membership fee and a secret password
is required before entry. You’ll often find Jerry
Thomas lingering around the World’s 50 Best Bars
list (last seen in the 50th spot in 2019).
A 4 night holiday at Starhotels Metropole in Rome
starts from £629 per person
Are you ready to sip up Italy? Speak to one of our ​Personal Travel Planners on 01293 765061
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The Italian Life:
Season by Season
WITH STEFANO NIRTA
Have you ever wondered how Italians spend their time throughout the year?
Our very own Regional Destination Manager, Stefano Nirta, shares his childhood
memories and insights into seasonal life.
So, tell us Stefano, are there specific seasonal
activities in Italy?
To an extent: I think we have to remember the
massive diversity, particularly between the north and
south of the country. It’s only been 160 years since
Italy has been unified. When Italy was separate papal
states, duchy and kingdoms, each one developed their
own traditions, activities, and even ethics, and these
differences still exist today.
The geography and climate also play a big role. In
November, December, and January in Sicily, Calabria,
and sometimes even Puglia, if the weather is nice then
families go to the beach. In Sicily people regularly
flock to Mondello, a beach south of Palermo. That’s
not going to happen in northern Italy, which has a
much more alpine feel, or in Tuscany during winter
months when it can rain quite a bit.
Is there a different energy to each season?
I would say so, yes. Just think about the Venetian
composer Vivaldi and his four concertos, The Four
Seasons. You get a sense of the energy at different
times of year. I would say that the music provides
insight into more rural parts of Italy - I suppose in that
era the seasons were more demarcated than you find
today, but you do feel how the mood changes - and
with it the activities.
What’s your favourite season - and why?
I love winter, as I like the cosiness of it all, but it’s not
total hibernation like you get in the UK as winter in
Italy is not severe. You get these cold but crisp days
with blue skies that are very conducive to physical
activity. You just wrap up more! l enjoy going to the
cinema, which is a very popular winter activity in
Rome. I also love evenings by candlelight and the
warm feeling you get from it.
The Christmas traditions in Rome are wonderful. We
eat dishes like abbacchio (a type of lamb) and the New
Year’s capitone (eel). Then there’s the sweets - Baci ®
Perugina ® was always very popular in my house, as
was panettone and pandoro, although it was the plain
type, not like the forty varieties you get today!
I loved and continue to love ricciarelli, soft little oval
almond cakes that come from Siena and make me
salivate just thinking about them!
I particularly like how Vivaldi
depicts the harvest festival country
dance feeling in autumn, which is
light and carefree, before it starts
to become more sombre.
Autumn 2023
Andiamo!

THE ITALIAN LIFE: SEASON BY SEASON
How did you spend each season as a child?
I grew up in Rome, and so city life has a different dynamic, but as soon
as the weather becomes good, perhaps after Easter, we would be sure
to take many day trips to the countryside. We would often go to Tivoli,
which is best known for Villa d’Este.
Easter is a big deal in Italy, it’s definitely a lot less religious these days, but
still marks the passage into spring when you open the window and see
the sun. Our family would always go to St. Peter’s Square on Palm Sunday,
and buy colomba, the traditional dove-shaped Easter cake, and beautifully
ornate eggs - they are unique and nothing like you find in the UK.
If the weather was nice in October we would go
to the beach, not necessarily for swimming or
sunbathing, but just to spend time at the coast.
Up until the age of six I didn’t know much about the sea
because my grandfather loved lakes! We would go to Lago di Bolsena,
and Lago Albano by Castel Gandolfo in the south of Rome, which
incidentally is the summer residence of the pope.
When my grandfather passed away, we began visiting Ostia
and nearby beaches on the Lazio coast like Fregene
Beach, and taking trips outside the city walls to
small villages, such as Grottaferrrata or Frascati.
I was always passionate about football and
so I would play most of the year. Then, when
December came, I would get busy with my
parents in the run-up to Christmas. I loved
Befana, when the good witch comes to Italian
homes in the New Year - this was a big event for me
as a child, and a highlight of my year.
I also loved going out on New Year’s Day to watch
Mister Okay dive from one of the bridges into the
Tiber River. This is a quirky tradition that has been
going on for half a century and always attracts a crowd!
Is there anything that you would say is a common activity
across Italy?
Yes - there is one thing that all Italians have in common: the passeggiata.
It doesn’t matter the season either!
The passeggiata translates as walk, and it’s a slow walk as it’s the chance
to be convivial with people, and a time for Italian families to unite. It also
marks the close of the working day. People are a lot more relaxed and
it’s a touch of La Dolce Vita!
I usually go to Sicily in May. We’ll be at the office having a meeting and
when 5pm arrives we wander to the town centre in either Taormina or
Cefalù. What I love is that my colleague literally has to stop every 10
metres to talk to all the people he knows!
This ritual surprisingly hasn’t really changed with the pace of life - it’s the
essence of living in Italy.
Why do you think the passeggiata remains so common?
It’s a very Mediterranean activity and a great way to finish the day. It
doesn’t matter what age you are, everyone goes for the passeggiata,
which is a great way to combat loneliness and get outside for fresh air.
As the older generations tend to live as part of
the family in Italy, it’s not uncommon to find
people walking with their grandparents or
great-grandparents, well into their nineties!
There also continues to be the concept of bella figura, particularly in the
south. What this means is that people make an effort at this time of day
to be turned out, not necessarily elegant, but well-dressed.
The passeggiata is also a time to exchange views. My father’s family is
from Calabria, and I have vivid memories of my uncle and his friends
intensely discussing politics during the summers I spent there.
What about seasonal food traditions Stefano?
I feel the taste of seasonal fruit and vegetables is
always more genuine, and fresher. One of my
dearest friends will drive an hour to the
Tuscan coast to buy his fresh fish all year
round. That’s the thing about Italy,
you’re never too far from the sea!
In springtime my mother would
make broad beans with pecorino
cheese, and tripe, which I hated!
In the summer months I ate a lot of
cherries and peaches, and a typical
Roman salad called puntarelle, which is
served with an anchovy sauce. I love figs,
which are harvested in early summer and are delicious
and soft on their own or served with ice cream. In autumn we would
eat pears and cheese.
Meals really are at the centre of everything in Italy, it’s
part of convivial life and the magnet for people to sit
around and talk.
We have an expression, if you go to a place and you come back, you
never say I’ve seen this or that like you would in the English language,
you say si mangia bene - that’s a place where I ate well!
Do you think Italians will continue to live by the seasons?
I have a good friend in Orvieto, who’s a provincial policeman, and his job
is to patrol the countryside, which he absolutely loves. He would like his
son to join him rather than play on his computer, but I guess we have to
accept that it's the 21st century and the current generation may not live
with the seasons as much.
However, in more rural areas, you will still find families foraging in
autumn. I think there’s always going to be a nod towards nature’s cycle
in Italy.
Interested in a Citalia holiday? Speak to one of our Personal Travel Planners on 01293 765061
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