Times of the Islands Summer 2023
Presents the "soul of the Turks & Caicos Islands" with in-depth features about local people, culture, history, environment, real estate, businesses, resorts, restaurants and activities.
Presents the "soul of the Turks & Caicos Islands" with in-depth features about local people, culture, history, environment, real estate, businesses, resorts, restaurants and activities.
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TIMES<br />
OF THE<br />
SAMPLING THE SOUL OF THE TURKS & CAICOS ISLANDS SUMMER <strong>2023</strong> NO. 143<br />
ISLANDS<br />
ENTHUSIAST OR ADDICT<br />
What type <strong>of</strong> diver are you?<br />
SUN, SURF, & SALAD<br />
A vegan visit to TCI<br />
PUSHING THE BOUNDARIES<br />
Nivå’s cutting edge design
Comfort Food Just Went A-list.<br />
If your idea <strong>of</strong> comfort feels like<br />
cashmere, you will find its culinary<br />
equivalent at Almond Tree,<br />
<strong>the</strong> Shore Club’s deliciously<br />
decadent new eatery.<br />
Golden, crusty wood-fired pizza.<br />
Savory skillets, bubbling over with flavor<br />
and just oozing with temptation.<br />
Salads and sides that give new meaning<br />
to <strong>the</strong> word “indulgence.”<br />
These days, we’re all hungry<br />
for contentment and satisfaction.<br />
Almond Tree at <strong>the</strong> Shore Club<br />
simply takes it to a whole new level.<br />
Reservations 649 339 8000<br />
<strong>the</strong>shoreclubtc.com<br />
ALMOND TREE<br />
COURTYARD BAR<br />
Dinner 6 –10:30pm<br />
5pm – Midnight
contents<br />
Departments<br />
6 From <strong>the</strong> Editor<br />
19 The Way It Was<br />
It’s Been 16 Years!<br />
Story & Photos By Davidson Louis<br />
22 Eye on <strong>the</strong> Sky<br />
Steady As She Goes:<br />
<strong>2023</strong> Hurricane Season<br />
By Paul Wilkerson<br />
26 Creature Feature<br />
Caribbean Spiny Lobster<br />
By Kelly Currington<br />
30 Making a Difference<br />
“Proud <strong>of</strong> My Island”<br />
By Ben Stubenberg<br />
52 New Development<br />
Pushing <strong>the</strong> Boundaries: Nivå Villas<br />
By Kathy Borsuk ~ Photos Courtesy Windward<br />
76 About <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>/TCI Map<br />
81 Subscription Form<br />
82 Classified Ads<br />
Features<br />
44 Dive Enthusiast or Dive Addict?<br />
By Kelly Currington<br />
58 Sun, Surf, and . . . Salad?<br />
A vegan visit to TCI<br />
By Rachel Craft<br />
Green Pages<br />
33 Delving into <strong>the</strong> Data<br />
By Eve Englefield and Emma Irving<br />
37 Finding A (Nemo)ne<br />
By Charlotte Kratovil-Lavelle and Clara Masseau<br />
41 Earth Day Poetry Contest<br />
Astrolabe<br />
65 “John” <strong>of</strong> All Trades<br />
Story & Historic Images By Jeff Dodge<br />
TIMES<br />
OF THE<br />
ISLANDS<br />
SAMPLING THE SOUL OF THE TURKS & CAICOS ISLANDS SUMMER <strong>2023</strong> NO. 143<br />
On <strong>the</strong> Cover<br />
This moody underwater shot was contributed by Dive<br />
Provo (www.DiveProvo.com), one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> TCI’s oldest<br />
dive operations and a member <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> TripAdvisor<br />
Certificate Hall <strong>of</strong> Fame. It was shot by Brilliant Studios<br />
(www.brilliantstudios.com) on a dive site in Grace Bay,<br />
Providenciales. It highlights <strong>the</strong> eye-catching, healthy<br />
corals still to be seen by divers in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos<br />
<strong>Islands</strong>. It appropriately celebrates National Ocean Month<br />
in June, which highlights <strong>the</strong> world’s marine ecosystems.<br />
70 Remembering When:<br />
The Town Strip in Grand Turk<br />
By Dr. Richard Grainger ~<br />
Images Courtesy Turks & Caicos<br />
National Museum Photo Collection<br />
33<br />
J HAWKRIDGE/J TYNE<br />
4 www.timespub.tc
Crafted for<br />
<strong>the</strong> fl ow <strong>of</strong> life.<br />
Formed within<br />
<strong>the</strong> fl ow <strong>of</strong> nature.<br />
A bold architectural statement, discover an intimate villa collection at <strong>the</strong> secluded tip<br />
<strong>of</strong> Turtle Tail. Focused on <strong>the</strong> horizon and soaring above <strong>the</strong> Caicos Bank, famed Turks<br />
& Caicos ocean views are captured through refi ned architectural framing. Design, drawn<br />
from nature, and crafted with clear intent for its place.<br />
Nivå will be home to only six private estates. Designed by Ström Architects, this private<br />
yet connected community comprises fi ve 4,014 sqft villas, and a singular, larger 6,579<br />
sqft showpiece.<br />
Six 4-7 bedroom Villas in<br />
Turtle Tail from $5.5m<br />
Register your interest today<br />
at: www.niva6.com<br />
For more information contact<br />
Windward at 649.241.9212<br />
or email: contact@windward.tc<br />
Designed by: Developed by: Real Estate Sales by:
from <strong>the</strong> editor<br />
MARTA MORTON—WWW.HARBOURCLUBVILLAS.COM<br />
This intrepid hummingbird is feeding on <strong>the</strong> yellow flowers <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> coconut palm. Note <strong>the</strong> specks <strong>of</strong> pollen on <strong>the</strong> tip <strong>of</strong> his beak.<br />
One Moment at a Time<br />
As I get older and a bit more worn down with loss and <strong>the</strong> “cares <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> world,” I find myself wanting to slow down<br />
and savor each day, each experience, each moment. The years <strong>of</strong> building this career, helping out my family, meeting<br />
deadlines, traveling, and trying to juggle many responsibilities seem to have passed in a fuzzy flash. As we start to<br />
experience <strong>the</strong> effects <strong>of</strong> climate change and unchecked development, I am realizing how important it is to be still<br />
and be present to <strong>the</strong> precious and fragile natural beauty that still surrounds us. Look, listen, smell, taste, touch.<br />
The “Beautiful by Nature” Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> are a good place to put this into practice. I am especially grateful<br />
for <strong>the</strong> people who take <strong>the</strong> time to write <strong>the</strong> articles and take <strong>the</strong> photographs that we share in this magazine. They<br />
are introductions to <strong>the</strong> adventures and opportunities that are just waiting to be discovered. Try snorkeling or scuba<br />
diving to witness <strong>the</strong> underwater world <strong>of</strong> wonder; sample vegan cuisine and tread a little lighter on <strong>the</strong> planet; visit<br />
Grand Turk or one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Sister <strong>Islands</strong> to step back into an older, slower world. This issue can give you a sample <strong>of</strong><br />
what you will find when you voyage beyond <strong>the</strong> beach.<br />
I love <strong>the</strong> phrase, “Life is about starting over, one breath at a time.” It helps make <strong>the</strong> overwhelming more digestible.<br />
It gives us hope that we can still take action to make a difference in our planet. Reduce, reuse, recycle, revive.<br />
It helps us find peace.<br />
Kathy Borsuk, Editor<br />
timespub@tciway.tc • (649) 431-4788<br />
6 www.timespub.tc
Arc<br />
By Piero Lissoni<br />
Elevated<br />
Beachfront Living<br />
Arc Sky Villas, designed by world-renowned architect Piero Lissoni, <strong>of</strong>fer a new way <strong>of</strong><br />
life at South Bank, a groundbreaking managed residential resort and marina destination.<br />
Inspired by place, indoor and outdoor spaces are seamless with immense Air Gardens<br />
creating an organic, living structure where sky, sea, nature and space are <strong>the</strong>ir signature.<br />
Developed by Windward: www.windward.tc<br />
Managed by:<br />
2-5 bedroom Sky Villas<br />
from $3m<br />
Register your interest today<br />
at: www.livesouthbank.com<br />
For more information contact<br />
Nina Siegenthaler at 649.231.0707<br />
Joe Zahm at 649.231.6188<br />
or email:nina@tcso<strong>the</strong>bysrealty.com<br />
@livesouthbank<br />
@livesouthbank<br />
The Lissoni® trademark is owned by Piero Lissoni and any<br />
use <strong>of</strong> such mark by South Bank and Arc is under license.
Everything’s Included<br />
For Everyone<br />
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Beaches ® is a registered trademark. Unique Vacations, Inc. is an affi liate <strong>of</strong> Unique Travel Corp., <strong>the</strong> worldwide representative <strong>of</strong> Beaches Resorts.
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Tel: +649 941 4994<br />
Email: services@tcbc.tc • www.tcbc.tc<br />
Regulated by <strong>the</strong> Financial Services Commission, Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>
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The sky is <strong>the</strong> limit.<br />
The world’s premier destination for kiteboarding and<br />
active watersports in a luxury setting.<br />
H2O provides luxury beachfront accommodations<br />
in a tranquil, intimate, and sustainability-minded<br />
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watersports including a world-class destination<br />
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Our friendly staff goes above and beyond to give<br />
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11 Long Bay Beach Drive, Long Bay Hills, Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong><br />
1 (649) 232-4262 | reservations@h2oresorttci.com | h2oresorttci.com
TIMES<br />
OF THE<br />
ISLANDS<br />
MANAGING EDITOR<br />
Kathy Borsuk<br />
ADVERTISING MANAGER<br />
Claire Parrish<br />
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS<br />
Kathy Borsuk, Rachel Craft, Kelly Currington, Jeff Dodge,<br />
Eve Englefield, Zavien Gardiner, Tyreke Glinton,<br />
Dr. Richard Grainger, Emma Irving, Charlotte Kratovil-<br />
Lavelle, Davidson Louis, Clara Masseau, Pari Ochani,<br />
Ben Stubenberg, Lisa Turnbow-Talbot, Paul Wilkerson.<br />
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS<br />
Aqua TCI, Attimi Photography, Rachel Craft,<br />
Kelly Currington, Dive Provo, Jeff Dodge, Abbie Dosell,<br />
Elemento Photography Turks & Caicos, Eve Englefield,<br />
Flamingo Divers, J. Hawkridge, Gary James—Provo Pictures,<br />
Davidson Louis, Christine Morden and James Roy—Paradise<br />
Photography, Marta Morton, Dr. C.E. O’Brien,<br />
Shay Café Lounge, Shutterstock, Solana Restaurant, J. Tyne,<br />
Turks & Caicos National Museum Collection,<br />
Lisa Turnbow-Talbot, LeMens Welch—<br />
Cayo Hica Media, Windward Development.<br />
CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS<br />
NOAA, Wavey Line Publishing.<br />
PRINTING<br />
PF Solutions, Miami, FL<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> ISSN 1017-6853 is<br />
published quarterly by <strong>Times</strong> Publications Ltd.<br />
Copyright © <strong>2023</strong> by <strong>Times</strong> Publications Ltd. All rights reserved<br />
under Universal and Pan American Copyright Conventions.<br />
No part <strong>of</strong> this publication may be<br />
reproduced without written permission.<br />
Subscriptions $28/year; $32/year for<br />
non-U.S. mailing addresses<br />
Submissions We welcome submission <strong>of</strong> articles or photography, but<br />
assume no responsibility for care and return <strong>of</strong> unsolicited material.<br />
Return postage must accompany material if it is to be returned. In no<br />
event shall any writer or photographer subject this magazine to any<br />
claim for holding fees or damage charges on unsolicited material.<br />
While every care has been taken in <strong>the</strong> compilation and reproduction <strong>of</strong><br />
information contained herein to ensure correctness, such information is<br />
subject to change without notice. The publisher accepts no<br />
responsibility for such alterations or for typographical or o<strong>the</strong>r errors.<br />
Business Office<br />
<strong>Times</strong> Publications Ltd., P.O. Box 234,<br />
Providenciales, Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>, BWI<br />
Tel 649 431 4788<br />
E-mail timespub@tciway.tc<br />
Web www.timespub.tc<br />
Advertising tfadvert@tciway.tc<br />
18 www.timespub.tc
<strong>the</strong> way it was<br />
The South Caicos airport greeted Davidson Louis when he arrived for his summer sojourns in <strong>the</strong> early 2000s.<br />
It’s Been 16 Years!<br />
Memories <strong>of</strong> childhood summers in South Caicos.<br />
Story & Photos By Davidson Louis<br />
When you are 12 years old and living on an island, you quickly learn to enjoy <strong>the</strong> little things in life—<strong>the</strong><br />
simplest and most rewarding. Growing up in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> was special. In fact, it was actually<br />
a gift. When summer came, most <strong>of</strong> my peers would brag about <strong>the</strong>ir exotic trips to go see friends and<br />
families in different parts <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> world. It was vastly different for me. Instead, I would be excited to go to<br />
South Caicos . . . to do absolutely nothing.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2023</strong> 19
South Caicos, if you haven’t been, isn’t for everyone.<br />
It is so quiet I think calling it a “sleepy town” is probably<br />
an exaggeration. The island has been left in <strong>the</strong> past,<br />
but not totally forgotten. There are narrow streets, sunbleached<br />
wooden homes that seem to be struggling to<br />
remain upright, tiny churches, and small shops with wide<br />
open screened doors. I always love <strong>the</strong> island.<br />
Every summer, I would look forward to leaving<br />
Providenciales and escape my ritualized life for six to<br />
seven weeks. No parents, no problem. My mo<strong>the</strong>r would<br />
drive to what used to be SkyKing’s <strong>of</strong>fice on Old Airport<br />
Road to buy a one-way ticket <strong>the</strong> day before <strong>the</strong> grand<br />
departure. She would hand me <strong>the</strong> pale-blue ticket that<br />
resembled a boarding pass to make it clear that when she<br />
said she had enough <strong>of</strong> me, she actually meant it.<br />
I would barely sleep <strong>the</strong> night before my great domestic<br />
getaway. I would ga<strong>the</strong>r my dearest belongings: my<br />
swimming shorts, flip flops, a few books, and my mom’s<br />
old Canon-XTi to capture everything. I would <strong>the</strong>n count<br />
<strong>the</strong> hours till morning. I was buzzing with excitement.<br />
The trip itself was an adventure. I would clench <strong>the</strong><br />
handles throughout <strong>the</strong> entire ride. The plane, no bigger<br />
than a mini-van, would shake from take-<strong>of</strong>f to landing.<br />
The 8 AM flight would be filled with people carrying all<br />
sorts <strong>of</strong> packages. Mom would always have a friend who<br />
needed an envelope to go over, so I was <strong>the</strong> messenger.<br />
With so many bodies in <strong>the</strong> plane, it would heat up like a<br />
toaster. The loud blowing air coming in from <strong>the</strong> air vents<br />
made no great difference.<br />
We used <strong>the</strong> old safety cards to fan ourselves. Safety<br />
came second, staying cool was <strong>the</strong> priority. The dark blue<br />
lea<strong>the</strong>r seats were overstretched and falling <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> chair<br />
frames. If <strong>the</strong> chairs could talk, <strong>the</strong>y would tell some<br />
interesting stories. You would feel every wind gust and<br />
every cloud that passed, but in <strong>the</strong> height <strong>of</strong> it all, when<br />
you looked down, <strong>the</strong>re would lie <strong>the</strong> most divine body <strong>of</strong><br />
water.<br />
Like marble, deep greens, hues <strong>of</strong> blues, and clearest<br />
turquoise blended toge<strong>the</strong>r effortlessly. All <strong>of</strong> a sudden,<br />
my attention is shifted. The plane ride was no longer<br />
exciting and <strong>the</strong> water underneath my feet took center<br />
stage. The reef divides <strong>the</strong> blues, creating a long thread<br />
that is stretched as far as <strong>the</strong> eyes can see. Beyond <strong>the</strong><br />
reef, deep blues are ignited under <strong>the</strong> glistening sun.<br />
Sapphire blues are melted into pale aquamarines with<br />
specks <strong>of</strong> white clashing waves, creating <strong>the</strong> most gorgeous<br />
collage I have ever seen. The intricate yet fluid<br />
palette <strong>of</strong> blues made me wonder if this is <strong>the</strong> origin <strong>of</strong><br />
TCI’s “Beautiful by Nature” tagline. I am always in awe.<br />
Davidson Louis enjoyed fishing during his summer “vacations” to<br />
South Caicos when he was a youngster.<br />
A small wooden structure welcomed you to South<br />
Caicos—it was <strong>the</strong> airport. The pond, I remember, would<br />
be covered with bright pink flamingos creating a vibrant<br />
contrast against <strong>the</strong> salina. Dragonflies and butterflies<br />
were in abundance. The guinep trees gave <strong>the</strong> sweetest<br />
fruits during <strong>the</strong>se summer months and you could<br />
ask anyone to climb <strong>the</strong>ir trees if you remember your<br />
manners. The summer spent in South Caicos was utterly<br />
peaceful.<br />
I returned to South Caicos 16 years later, but this time<br />
it was a bit different. I bought my own ticket with a return<br />
date. The journey was similar, but I think I was even more<br />
excited. South Caicos, this time around, felt like a déjà<br />
vu experience. A wave <strong>of</strong> nostalgia brought memories<br />
back as I tried to recall my younger years on <strong>the</strong> island.<br />
Nothing drastic has changed. The flamingoes have not<br />
left <strong>the</strong> pond and Victoria Salina looked <strong>the</strong> same as it<br />
did more than a decade ago. Some streets seemed to be<br />
more active than I remember while o<strong>the</strong>r streets seemed<br />
quieter than ever.<br />
Looking back, I should thank my parents for allowing<br />
me to have <strong>the</strong>se childhood memories. Slowly but<br />
surely, <strong>the</strong> island is changing. South Caicos may never<br />
be <strong>the</strong> same for my children to enjoy <strong>the</strong> way I enjoyed<br />
it. Ambitious developments like East Bay and Sailrock will<br />
change this quiet town forever. Sailrock wants to transform<br />
<strong>the</strong> island into a luxury retreat. This is wonderful,<br />
but I encourage you to take a trip to South Caicos while<br />
<strong>the</strong> island still has its charm. South Caicos’ raw nature is<br />
unparalleled.<br />
Everyone who comes to visit <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong><br />
should devote a day or two to South Caicos or one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
o<strong>the</strong>r out islands to enjoy <strong>the</strong> country’s true beauty. Stay<br />
tuned to this column as I do <strong>the</strong> same! a<br />
20 www.timespub.tc
These are some images Davidson Louis captured during his annual<br />
trips to South Caicos. Clockwise from top left: Flying over <strong>the</strong> Caicos<br />
Banks and its many-faceted ocean blues was an enthralling part <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> trip.<br />
The activities and sights <strong>of</strong> this quiet island are suited for people<br />
looking for rugged nature and tranquility.<br />
Small fishing boats bring in fish, conch, and lobster to be processed<br />
for international export.<br />
The pursuit <strong>of</strong> edible snappers, groupers, and jacks has always been<br />
both a necessity and a pastime on South Caicos.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2023</strong> 21
MARTA MORTON—WWW.HARBOURCLUBVILLAS.COM
eye on <strong>the</strong> sky<br />
Opposite page: Just like <strong>the</strong> contrasts in this photo <strong>of</strong> a quiet shore in TCI, El Niño and La Niña are two opposing climate patterns that break<br />
<strong>the</strong> normal conditions in <strong>the</strong> Pacific Ocean. El Niño and La Niña both have global impacts on wea<strong>the</strong>r, wildfires, ecosystems, and economies.<br />
NOAA<br />
Above: NOAA GOES satellite captures Hurricane Ian as it made landfall on <strong>the</strong> barrier island <strong>of</strong> Cayo Costa in southwest Florida on September<br />
28, 2022.<br />
Steady As She Goes<br />
What does <strong>the</strong> <strong>2023</strong> hurricane season hold?<br />
By Paul Wilkerson<br />
The predictions are in for <strong>the</strong> <strong>2023</strong> hurricane season for <strong>the</strong> Atlantic Basin. According to all <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> primary<br />
predictors, including Colorado State University and <strong>the</strong> National Oceanic & Atmospheric Administration<br />
(NOAA’s) outlook, <strong>the</strong> <strong>2023</strong> season should be near normal overall. Colorado State gives a nod to a slightly<br />
below normal season, while NOAA believes <strong>the</strong>re are equal chances for an above or below normal season.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2023</strong> 23
Seasonal predictions are influenced by <strong>the</strong> global<br />
effects <strong>of</strong> La Niña and El Niño, which are <strong>the</strong> warm and<br />
cool phases <strong>of</strong> a recurring climate pattern across <strong>the</strong> tropical<br />
Pacific. During La Niña summers/hurricane seasons,<br />
much lighter winds are usually observed in <strong>the</strong> Atlantic<br />
Basin along with abnormally warm waters. These ingredients<br />
coupled toge<strong>the</strong>r lead to higher than normal tropical<br />
activity in many cases. During El Niño years, <strong>the</strong> upper<br />
level wind field is generally stronger across <strong>the</strong> Atlantic<br />
Basin, with opportunities for tropical development more<br />
limited thanks to stronger wind shear and in normal El<br />
Niño seasons, cooler water (relatively speaking). This<br />
generally leads to below average hurricane seasons.<br />
The last three hurricane seasons have featured<br />
La Niña conditions, with 2020 producing record activity<br />
with 30 named storms, 14 hurricanes, and 7 major<br />
hurricanes. 2019 was <strong>the</strong> last El Niño hurricane season<br />
which saw 18 named storms, 6 hurricanes, and 3 major<br />
hurricanes. While <strong>the</strong>re have been some marked differences<br />
between <strong>the</strong> seasons consistent with <strong>the</strong> different<br />
El Niño–Sou<strong>the</strong>rn Oscillation patterns, those differences<br />
are being reduced as time continues on. The main culprit?<br />
Global warming.<br />
Recently, <strong>the</strong> World Meteorological Society (WMO)<br />
noted that global temperatures will likely hit record<br />
levels over <strong>the</strong> next five years. This will continue to progress<br />
due to greenhouse gas effects on our atmosphere.<br />
WMO reports that sometime during <strong>the</strong> next five years,<br />
<strong>the</strong> global temperature could spike by more than 1.5ºC<br />
(2.7ºF) during that period. In fact, <strong>the</strong> chance <strong>of</strong> that happening<br />
currently stands at 66%. While it is not likely to<br />
remain at that level continuously, it could hit those levels<br />
more consistently as <strong>the</strong> years pass by, until we get<br />
to a point where that change becomes permanent. An<br />
increase <strong>of</strong> 1.5ºC (2.7ºF) may not seem like a cause for<br />
concern, but it certainly is. The impacts are far reaching.<br />
From a meteorological standpoint, looking at global<br />
warming with regards to hurricane season, one would<br />
expect to see a more consistently active season possible,<br />
along with stronger hurricanes overall. Temperatures in<br />
<strong>the</strong> Atlantic Basin already are running above normal on<br />
a fairly regular basis. Global warming will only continue<br />
to add warmth to oceans. This in turn, over time, could<br />
begin to negate some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> effects that El Niño brings to<br />
<strong>the</strong> table in helping to reduce <strong>the</strong> overall number <strong>of</strong> systems<br />
during a season. With higher water temperatures,<br />
<strong>the</strong> low-level environment could be quite conducive to<br />
tropical systems more frequently during El Niño periods.<br />
In this case, it would likely be easier for upper-level<br />
and low-level features to line up more <strong>of</strong>ten. In a normal<br />
El Niño, it can sometimes be hard to get everything<br />
to line up properly for systems to form. Normally we<br />
have periods where <strong>the</strong>re is little shear al<strong>of</strong>t (conducive<br />
for development), but cooler sea surface temperatures<br />
24 www.timespub.tc
(inhibits development). And sometimes it is <strong>the</strong> reverse.<br />
Warmer waters, but strong shear. In <strong>the</strong>se cases systems<br />
struggle. Once we have one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se ingredients consistently<br />
available all <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> time, we will see more systems<br />
develop, and that is likely what we would see with global<br />
warming and impacts on El Niño. It will require many<br />
years <strong>of</strong> studying to determine <strong>the</strong> true impacts <strong>the</strong>se<br />
changes are having on tropical system development and<br />
intensity around <strong>the</strong> globe.<br />
From an ecological standpoint, we have all seen <strong>the</strong><br />
collapse <strong>of</strong> whole coral reef systems across <strong>the</strong> globe<br />
due to much higher sea temperatures. In general, corals<br />
exist in a very small temperature equilibrium. When temperatures<br />
climb above normal levels, coral bleaching can<br />
result, wiping out vast areas <strong>of</strong> coral reef.<br />
Over <strong>the</strong> last 10 years, coral reef bleaching has<br />
become more and more common and has a pr<strong>of</strong>ound<br />
impact on <strong>the</strong> local ecology. Fish and many o<strong>the</strong>r species<br />
dependent on coral reef systems for <strong>the</strong>ir livelihood are<br />
wiped out when <strong>the</strong> coral bleaches and dies. It creates<br />
localized collapse <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> food chain, with ripple effects<br />
across <strong>the</strong> board.<br />
It is important that we recognize how we, as humans,<br />
are impacting our oceans, so that we can become better<br />
educated and better stewards <strong>of</strong> what has been entrusted<br />
to us. By being good caretakers <strong>of</strong> our environment and<br />
working toge<strong>the</strong>r to reduce greenhouse gases and global<br />
temperatures, we can turn this ship around. We can try to<br />
save not only our coral reef systems, but possibly reduce<br />
<strong>the</strong> risk <strong>of</strong> ever-stronger hurricanes, reducing <strong>the</strong> threat<br />
to people everywhere. a<br />
Paul Wilkerson is an American meteorologist and tourist<br />
who frequents <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. Along with<br />
his wife and two daughters, <strong>the</strong> Wilkersons stay actively<br />
engaged with Islanders throughout <strong>the</strong> year with his<br />
Facebook page Turks and Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> Wea<strong>the</strong>r Info.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2023</strong> 25
SHUTTERSTOCK
creature feature<br />
Opposite page: Caribbean spiny lobsters have long, horn-like antennae<br />
over <strong>the</strong>ir eyes that <strong>the</strong>y wave to scare <strong>of</strong>f predators, and smaller<br />
antennae-like “antennules” that sense movement and detect chemicals<br />
in <strong>the</strong> water.<br />
KELLY CURRINGTON<br />
Above: Caribbean spiny lobsters get <strong>the</strong>ir name from forward-pointing<br />
spines that cover <strong>the</strong>ir bodies to help protect <strong>the</strong>m from predators.<br />
Right: Each <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> lobster’s two eyes comprise up to 10,000 squareshaped<br />
tubes that are packed toge<strong>the</strong>r. Each tube is lined with a flat,<br />
reflective surface that acts like a mirror to direct incoming light down<br />
to <strong>the</strong> retina. This setup affords lobsters a full 180-degree view, compared<br />
with humans’ 120-degree vision. Though <strong>the</strong>y can’t see images<br />
well, <strong>the</strong>se crustaceans excel in sensing motion.<br />
Caribbean Spiny Lobster<br />
Taking a look at <strong>the</strong> “bugs” <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> sea.<br />
By Kelly Currington<br />
When people hear <strong>the</strong> word “lobster” <strong>the</strong>y generally think <strong>of</strong> a tasty entrée on <strong>the</strong>ir dinner plate, most<br />
likely <strong>the</strong> large-clawed Maine version. In <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> and <strong>the</strong> rest <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Caribbean, our<br />
lobsters don’t have any claws and <strong>the</strong>re is much more to <strong>the</strong>se crustaceans than meets <strong>the</strong> eye.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2023</strong> 27
KELLY CURRINGTON<br />
Spiny lobster are nocturnal creatures and walk around at night when <strong>the</strong>y are foraging for <strong>the</strong>ir food.<br />
Caribbean spiny lobsters are quite <strong>the</strong> odd-looking<br />
lobster. They range in colors from purple to red and<br />
orange. Their presence is a sign <strong>of</strong> a healthy and bio-diverse<br />
reef. As with every creature in <strong>the</strong> sea, <strong>the</strong>y are<br />
critical to a balanced ecosystem.<br />
It takes a spiny lobster between two and five years to<br />
reach sexual maturity. They cannot be legally harvested<br />
in <strong>the</strong> Caribbean until <strong>the</strong>ir carapace (hard outer shell)<br />
is 3 1/2 inches. They can spawn up to four times a year<br />
and depending on <strong>the</strong> size <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> female, she will produce<br />
anywhere from 80,000 to 500,000 eggs per cycle. That’s<br />
a lot <strong>of</strong> baby lobsters!<br />
The male deposits sperm packets on <strong>the</strong> underside<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> female, which she <strong>the</strong>n scratches to release <strong>the</strong><br />
sperm simultaneously as she releases her eggs. She carries<br />
<strong>the</strong> fertilized eggs under her tail for nine to twelve<br />
months. Once <strong>the</strong> eggs hatch, <strong>the</strong>y will spend ano<strong>the</strong>r<br />
nine to twelve months as planktonic larvae known as<br />
phyllosome until <strong>the</strong>y transform into puerulus, <strong>the</strong> post<br />
larval stage. At this point <strong>the</strong>y are miniature versions <strong>of</strong><br />
mature lobsters—free swimming and becoming benthic<br />
(bottom dwellers). They make <strong>the</strong>ir way to <strong>the</strong> reef and<br />
start <strong>the</strong>ir life as lobsters. During this two-year journey<br />
from fertilization, <strong>the</strong>y feed on plankton and algae.<br />
Once <strong>the</strong>y reach <strong>the</strong> juvenile stage, between two and<br />
three years, <strong>the</strong>y start to feed on snails, crabs, clams,<br />
and o<strong>the</strong>r bottom dwelling organisms. They will eventually<br />
inhabit coral reefs, bays, and estuaries, but during<br />
migration periods can be found in seagrass and s<strong>of</strong>t bottom<br />
areas at depths ranging from <strong>the</strong> shallows to around<br />
90 meters.<br />
Lobsters grow by molting, a process in which <strong>the</strong>y<br />
grow a new exoskeleton under <strong>the</strong>ir existing one and<br />
break free. It takes about a day for <strong>the</strong> new exoskeleton<br />
to harden, a time in which <strong>the</strong>y are extremely vulnerable<br />
to predation. They go through this process up to 25 times<br />
in <strong>the</strong>ir first five to seven years <strong>of</strong> life, and <strong>the</strong>n slow to<br />
only once per year as <strong>the</strong>y age. It is difficult to age <strong>the</strong>se<br />
crustaceans, but <strong>the</strong> estimation is that a ten-pound lobster<br />
could be upwards <strong>of</strong> 50 years old.<br />
Because spiny lobsters are easily susceptible to diseases,<br />
which can be caused by shifts in <strong>the</strong> ecosystem<br />
conditions, <strong>the</strong>ir assemblance in large numbers can be<br />
detrimental to sizable portions <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> group. Many predators<br />
feed on juvenile and adult spiny lobsters, including<br />
groupers, snappers, sharks, skates, turtles, and octopus,<br />
but <strong>the</strong>ir biggest threat—as with most species—comes<br />
from humans. According to <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos Reef Fund,<br />
28 www.timespub.tc
over 800,000 pounds <strong>of</strong> lobster are caught annually in<br />
TCI waters, which is very near <strong>the</strong> maximum sustainable<br />
yield. Since records started being kept, <strong>the</strong> average lobster<br />
size has decreased from 3 to 0.7 kilograms.<br />
Spiny lobster are nocturnal, so during <strong>the</strong> day <strong>the</strong>y<br />
stay hidden in <strong>the</strong>ir dens and wait for cover <strong>of</strong> darkness<br />
to forage for food, which starts about two hours after<br />
sunset. Since <strong>the</strong>y do not have actual claws, <strong>the</strong>y rely on<br />
smell and taste, using <strong>the</strong>ir front set <strong>of</strong> walking legs to<br />
pull food towards <strong>the</strong>ir powerful mandibles, proving <strong>the</strong>y<br />
are formidable hunters.<br />
These are interesting lobsters with a multitude <strong>of</strong><br />
color variations, and <strong>the</strong>y have colorful personalities as<br />
well. If you are diving or snorkeling during <strong>the</strong> day and<br />
you see long spiny antennae sticking out from underneath<br />
a coral head, slow down and watch <strong>the</strong> owner <strong>of</strong><br />
those antennae. Lobsters are curious creatures and if<br />
you approach <strong>the</strong>m slowly and at a respectable distance,<br />
you can usually get a good view—and sometimes <strong>the</strong>y<br />
will even come out a little to investigate you. If startled<br />
though, <strong>the</strong>y will retreat backwards quickly.<br />
I have had lobsters come out and feel my entire face<br />
with <strong>the</strong>ir antennae and <strong>the</strong>n duck back into <strong>the</strong>ir dens.<br />
These encounters are special and emotional because you<br />
know that <strong>the</strong>y are communicating with you. You never<br />
touch, it’s always on <strong>the</strong>ir terms, and if <strong>the</strong>y aren’t interested,<br />
you go about your dive and leave <strong>the</strong>m in peace.<br />
If you are night diving, you will most likely see lobsters<br />
out foraging for food or strolling across <strong>the</strong> sand.<br />
Again, if you slow down and watch, you may be lucky<br />
enough to see <strong>the</strong>m snag dinner!<br />
I am very happy that in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong>re is a specified “season” for catching lobsters and<br />
minimum size requirement so <strong>the</strong> species can survive.<br />
The exact dates vary, with lobster season typically from<br />
August 1 to March 31. The minimum carapace length is<br />
3 1/4 inches, <strong>the</strong> minimum tail weight is five ounces, and<br />
no egg bearing lobsters or moulting/s<strong>of</strong>t shelled lobsters<br />
can be taken.<br />
My ever-present hope is that if you slow down and<br />
pay close attention to <strong>the</strong> creatures in <strong>the</strong> sea, <strong>the</strong> way<br />
<strong>the</strong>y go about <strong>the</strong>ir lives, <strong>the</strong>ir interactions with o<strong>the</strong>r<br />
creatures (and humans), and notice that <strong>the</strong>y are thinking,<br />
living souls, that maybe you’ll learn to see <strong>the</strong>m as<br />
more than an entrée on your dinner plate. Always respect<br />
<strong>the</strong> creatures who are so important to reef health and<br />
never harass, chase, or touch <strong>the</strong>m. We are visitors in<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir home, and <strong>the</strong>y need our protection. a<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2023</strong> 29
making a difference<br />
ATTIMI PHOTOGRAPHY<br />
“Proud <strong>of</strong> My Island” shopping bags are both functional and feature spectacular pictures <strong>of</strong> TCI wildlife and landmarks that both locals and<br />
visitors can take pride in. Descriptions <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> animals and places tell a story and put <strong>the</strong>m in context.<br />
“Proud <strong>of</strong> My Island”<br />
A dream inspires a movement.<br />
By Ben Stubenberg<br />
“Proud <strong>of</strong> My Island” began as a dream in <strong>the</strong> Fall <strong>of</strong> 2021 that inspired Providenciales residents Sammy<br />
Kildegaard and Emiliano Otin to give back to <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos—islands that had given so much for <strong>the</strong>m.<br />
Environmentalists at heart, <strong>the</strong>y envisioned making a product that would sharply reduce <strong>the</strong> use <strong>of</strong> plastic<br />
bags while highlighting and protecting <strong>the</strong> physical and cultural heritage <strong>of</strong> TCI.<br />
30 www.timespub.tc
The bags are also popular with tourists, and serve <strong>the</strong> purpose <strong>of</strong> visually promoting TCI when <strong>the</strong>y are used for shopping in <strong>the</strong> US, Canada,<br />
UK, and elsewhere.<br />
TMW2022.qxp_Layout 1 3/2/22 3:41 PM Page 1<br />
After much brainstorming, <strong>the</strong>y asked <strong>the</strong>mselves,<br />
“Why not produce a functional shopping bag featuring<br />
spectacular pictures <strong>of</strong> TCI wildlife and landmarks that<br />
both locals and visitors could take pride in? And let’s go<br />
a step fur<strong>the</strong>r by selling those bags to raise money to<br />
protect those treasures and keep TCI pristine for future<br />
generations.”<br />
Soon enough, Sammy and Emiliano, also founders<br />
<strong>of</strong> Natural Trade Distribution Ltd., found <strong>the</strong>mselves<br />
immersed in a long-term mission to build an environmental<br />
legacy. First, <strong>the</strong>y sourced <strong>the</strong> right materials for <strong>the</strong><br />
best design and found a reliable manufacturing facility.<br />
Next, <strong>the</strong>y contacted local photographers Ileana Ravasio,<br />
Kim Mortimer, and Agile LeVin, and invited <strong>the</strong>m to submit<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir best shots showcasing brown pelicans, humpback<br />
whales, Pirate’s Cove, and Mudjin Harbour. These images<br />
were <strong>the</strong>n applied to each side <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> bags, making <strong>the</strong>m,<br />
in effect, moveable works <strong>of</strong> art that catch <strong>the</strong> eye wherever<br />
carried. The pair added descriptions <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> animals<br />
and places to tell a story and put <strong>the</strong>m in context.<br />
Local businesses recognized <strong>the</strong> value and signed up<br />
to be sponsors <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> dream. Before long, Sammy and<br />
Emiliano had transformed a humble shopping bag into a<br />
bold statement about TCI that evolved into a “Proud <strong>of</strong> My<br />
Island” movement.<br />
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TELEPHONE 649.946.4261 | TMW@TMWLAW.TC<br />
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ATTIMI PHOTOGRAPHY<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2023</strong> 31
LEMENS WELCH—CAYA HICO MEDIA<br />
This pair <strong>of</strong> donkeys are part <strong>of</strong> a third phase <strong>of</strong> bags displaying more breathtaking pictures from Grand Turk and East Caicos, along with<br />
compelling stories highlighting TCI’s alluring grace and beauty.<br />
Over <strong>the</strong> past year, <strong>the</strong> bags have wildly succeeded<br />
with some 15,000 sold through local retail stores. Not<br />
only do <strong>the</strong> stunning bags reinforce local pride in <strong>the</strong><br />
unique and special place we live, but impressed visitors<br />
snap <strong>the</strong>m up to take back home. Thus, <strong>the</strong> bags serve<br />
yet ano<strong>the</strong>r purpose <strong>of</strong> visually promoting TCI when <strong>the</strong>y<br />
are used for shopping in <strong>the</strong> US, Canada, UK, and elsewhere.<br />
Proceeds from <strong>the</strong> bag sales and from sponsor<br />
donations allow “Proud <strong>of</strong> My Island” to donate to local<br />
charities such as <strong>the</strong> TCI Reef Fund and o<strong>the</strong>rs that are<br />
committed to keep <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>’ environment healthy for<br />
years to come.<br />
Sammy and Emiliano are now creating a third phase<br />
<strong>of</strong> bags displaying more breathtaking pictures from<br />
Grand Turk and East Caicos, along with compelling stories<br />
highlighting TCI’s alluring grace and beauty. “We love<br />
<strong>the</strong>se <strong>Islands</strong>,” <strong>the</strong> duo say with heartfelt pride. “And we<br />
want to work with local people to help sustain <strong>the</strong> awe<br />
and reverence we all feel <strong>of</strong> our home. There are so many<br />
to thank for collaborating in this movement with us.” a<br />
Ben Stubenberg, co-founder <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> vacation adventure<br />
company Caicu Naniki, is a regular contributor to <strong>Times</strong><br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />
32 www.timespub.tc
green pages<br />
Newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Department <strong>of</strong> Environment & Coastal Resources<br />
Head <strong>of</strong>fice: Church Folly, Grand Turk, tel 649 946 2801 • fax 649 946 1895<br />
• Astwood Street, South Caicos, tel 649 946 3306 • fax 946 3710<br />
• National Environmental Centre, Lower Bight Road, Providenciales<br />
Parks Division, tel 649 941 5122 • fax 649 946 4793<br />
Fisheries Division, tel 649 946 4017 • fax 649 946 4793<br />
email environment@gov.tc or dema.tci@gmail.com • web https://www.gov.tc/decr/<br />
Much <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> rich diversity <strong>of</strong> Turks & Caicos marine life is hidden below <strong>the</strong> surface <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> water.<br />
©ABBIE DOSELL—JNCC<br />
Delving into <strong>the</strong> Data<br />
Understanding <strong>the</strong> waters <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos for effective management.<br />
By Eve Englefield* and Emma Irving*, with input from Megan Tierney*, Tara Pelembe**,<br />
David Vaughan*, Louise Anderson*, and Laura Pettit*<br />
*Joint Nature Conservation Committee<br />
** South Atlantic Environmental Research Institute (SAERI)<br />
In <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>, no one is ever far from <strong>the</strong> marine environment, and for many people,<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir livelihoods depend on it. However, with much <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> rich diversity hidden beneath <strong>the</strong> waves <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
turquoise waters, it’s easy to forget about nature below <strong>the</strong> surface.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2023</strong> 33
green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />
©EVE ENGLEFIELD<br />
34 www.timespub.tc
green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />
Opposite page: Work has been completed to understand <strong>the</strong> current state <strong>of</strong> sand habitats, and to identify which areas may be particularly<br />
vulnerable to increasing pressure from human activities and climate change.<br />
Above: Mangrove forests improve water quality, provide nursery habitat for fish, act as carbon sinks, and protect <strong>the</strong> coastline from erosion.<br />
The coasts and oceans surrounding <strong>the</strong> Turks &<br />
Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> provide many benefits and are crucial to<br />
<strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>’ economy, livelihoods, and resilience. These<br />
marine environments are <strong>the</strong> focus <strong>of</strong> a multi-partner<br />
project that has developed marine management tools<br />
and training to support decision making to protect <strong>the</strong>se<br />
diverse and valuable environments.<br />
As people, it can be difficult to measure a healthy<br />
lifestyle without understanding what impacts our health,<br />
such as diet, exercise, pre-existing conditions, and pollution.<br />
The same is true for our coasts and oceans. The<br />
waters <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> are home to a diverse<br />
range <strong>of</strong> habitats which includes coral reefs, seagrass<br />
beds, sand, and mangroves. These places are important<br />
for animals such as turtles, grouper, and conch.<br />
Toge<strong>the</strong>r, <strong>the</strong>se habitats and species provide important<br />
benefits for humans such as coastal protection, fisheries,<br />
tourism opportunities, and carbon storage. However, if<br />
we don’t understand <strong>the</strong> extent <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se benefits or how<br />
<strong>the</strong>y are impacted by pressures on <strong>the</strong> environment, we<br />
can’t make accurate decisions to ensure <strong>the</strong> “health” <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong>se areas for <strong>the</strong> benefit <strong>of</strong> biodiversity, <strong>the</strong> economy,<br />
and for <strong>the</strong> people.<br />
Developing ways to build this understanding has<br />
been <strong>the</strong> focus <strong>of</strong> a three-year long project, funded by<br />
<strong>the</strong> UK Government through Darwin Plus, and led by<br />
<strong>the</strong> Joint Nature Conservation Committee (JNCC), <strong>the</strong><br />
Turks & Caicos Government Department <strong>of</strong> Environment<br />
and Coastal Resources (DECR), and <strong>the</strong> South Atlantic<br />
Environmental Research Institute (SAERI). The project has<br />
developed three broad techniques for assessing marine<br />
and coastal environments, all <strong>of</strong> which will help to guide<br />
decisions on what is required to improve <strong>the</strong> health <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong>se areas.<br />
©EVE ENGLEFIELD<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2023</strong> 35
green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />
Protecting, Preserving, and<br />
Restoring <strong>the</strong> Coral Reefs <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> TCI<br />
Come visit our Coral Growing Facility<br />
and get your TCRF merchandise!<br />
Located at South Bank Marina.<br />
We are open 1-5pm<br />
Monday - Friday<br />
Rashguards, Stickers, BCD tags and more!<br />
All proceeds go to our environmental<br />
projects in TCI.<br />
Firstly, work has been completed to understand <strong>the</strong><br />
current “health” <strong>of</strong> coral reefs, seagrass, and sand habitats,<br />
and to identify which areas may be particularly<br />
vulnerable to increasing pressure from human activities<br />
and climate change. This information is useful now, but<br />
it is equally important to understand how <strong>the</strong> situation<br />
may change as time progresses. Checking and monitoring<br />
every species, area, and habitat across <strong>the</strong> waters<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> TCI is costly and expensive, but researchers can<br />
instead focus on specific elements that act as indicators<br />
to understand changes to <strong>the</strong> health <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> environment.<br />
The second tool being developed are marine indicators<br />
reflecting key aspects <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se environments, such as <strong>the</strong><br />
extent <strong>of</strong> seagrass areas. Incorporating indicators into<br />
environmental management is important for informing<br />
management decisions, evaluating <strong>the</strong> impact <strong>of</strong> decisions,<br />
and tracking progress towards objectives.<br />
The third aspect <strong>of</strong> this project researched and catalogued<br />
information about <strong>the</strong> benefits provided by key<br />
habitats and species, and mapped where <strong>the</strong>se benefits<br />
are likely being delivered. Understanding which places<br />
are most important for different benefits helps TCI make<br />
informed decisions about sustainably managing marine<br />
areas and reduces <strong>the</strong> risk <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se valuable benefits<br />
being overexploited in <strong>the</strong> future. For example, it was<br />
found that <strong>the</strong> seagrass beds are important for <strong>the</strong> storage<br />
<strong>of</strong> carbon, and for protection against erosion and<br />
flooding. They also provide critical habitats for juvenile<br />
grouper fish, supporting populations to <strong>the</strong> benefit <strong>of</strong><br />
divers, fishers, and restaurant patrons into <strong>the</strong> future.<br />
These techniques are only useful if <strong>the</strong>y are used in<br />
<strong>the</strong> long term to monitor <strong>the</strong> coastline and oceans. To<br />
support <strong>the</strong> work that has already been done, a series<br />
<strong>of</strong> events to share knowledge on <strong>the</strong>se tools and techniques<br />
will take place in June, <strong>2023</strong>. The event will<br />
bring toge<strong>the</strong>r marine resource managers and o<strong>the</strong>r key<br />
stakeholders from across TCI to explore how to apply<br />
and expand <strong>the</strong>se techniques to inform management<br />
decisions. However, <strong>the</strong> findings <strong>of</strong> this project remain<br />
relevant to <strong>the</strong> entire community <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos<br />
through safeguarding <strong>the</strong> environment that provides livelihoods,<br />
nutrition, and enjoyment to all. a<br />
For more information, please visit <strong>the</strong> project<br />
website: https://jncc.gov.uk/our-work/turks-caicos-islands-marine-coastal-management/.<br />
36 www.timespub.tc
green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />
SHUTTERSTOCK<br />
A red snapping shrimp (Alpheus armatus) lives inside its corkscrew anemone (Bartholomea annulata) “host.”<br />
Finding A(Nemo)ne:<br />
The fascinating relationship between red snapping shrimp and corkscrew anemones.<br />
By Charlotte Kratovil-Lavelle (Dickinson College) and Clara Masseau (University <strong>of</strong> Colorado) ~<br />
Edited by C.E. O’Brien, Ph.D. (The School for Field Studies, Center for Marine Resource Studies,<br />
South Caicos, Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>)<br />
Courtesy <strong>of</strong> Disney’s Finding Nemo (2003), many <strong>of</strong> us are familiar with <strong>the</strong> way clownfish make <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
homes in sea anemones, having adapted to <strong>the</strong> anemone’s sting. What is relatively less known among<br />
<strong>the</strong> general public is <strong>the</strong> relationship between <strong>the</strong> red snapping shrimp (Alpheus armatus) and <strong>the</strong> corkscrew<br />
anemone (Bartholomea annulata). Native to <strong>the</strong> Western Atlantic, <strong>the</strong>se species have been found<br />
to coexist in a way that benefits both, a relationship known as obligatory mutualism.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2023</strong> 37
This relationship is, <strong>of</strong> course, not a one-way relationship;<br />
<strong>the</strong> shrimp must also take care <strong>of</strong> its home. A 2021<br />
study investigating this symbiosis found that red snapping<br />
shrimp undertook <strong>the</strong> important role <strong>of</strong> removing<br />
sand and sediment from <strong>the</strong> anemone. This cleaning was<br />
shown to aid <strong>the</strong> anemone in more effectively contracting<br />
into its column, <strong>the</strong> body <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> anemone, thus providing<br />
both species with better protection from predators.<br />
In addition to being tidy, red snapping shrimp are a<br />
territorial species that has been known to defend <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
host anemone against predators. A 2014 study found<br />
that corkscrew anemone individuals that hosted red<br />
snapping shrimp were less likely to suffer damage from<br />
<strong>the</strong> bearded fireworm (Hermodice carunculata) when predated<br />
on. The feisty shrimp aided in <strong>the</strong> defense <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
host anemone by rushing <strong>the</strong> fireworm and snapping at<br />
and pinching <strong>the</strong> worm with its chelipeds (its pair <strong>of</strong> legs<br />
with pincers).<br />
Ano<strong>the</strong>r benefit provided by <strong>the</strong> snapping shrimp is<br />
<strong>the</strong> creation <strong>of</strong> nitrogenous waste, which can act as fertilizer<br />
to <strong>the</strong> single-celled, microscopic algae known as<br />
endosymbiotic zooxan<strong>the</strong>llae. Zooxan<strong>the</strong>llae are single<br />
celled organisms that live in <strong>the</strong> tissues <strong>of</strong> a wide range<br />
<strong>of</strong> marine organisms, including anemones, and operate<br />
in mutualistic relationships. One well-known example <strong>of</strong><br />
this is <strong>the</strong> crucial relationship between zooxan<strong>the</strong>llae and<br />
coral polyps, which provide coral with <strong>the</strong>ir color and a<br />
food source. Similarly to <strong>the</strong>ir relationship with coral, zooxan<strong>the</strong>llae<br />
live amongst corkscrew anemones and provide<br />
photosyn<strong>the</strong>tic benefits in which <strong>the</strong>y produce sugars in<br />
exchange for carbon dioxide, water, and sunlight.<br />
Though <strong>the</strong> relationship between red snapping<br />
shrimp and corkscrew anemone may not be one-way, it<br />
is one-sided in terms <strong>of</strong> dependence. For <strong>the</strong> anemone,<br />
this arrangement is advantageous, but not essential for<br />
its survival, and it would <strong>the</strong>refore be considered facultative.<br />
But for <strong>the</strong> shrimp, <strong>the</strong> use <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> anemone as shelter<br />
is crucial for <strong>the</strong>ir survival. In fact, a red snapping shrimp<br />
will remain with <strong>the</strong> same host anemone for all three to<br />
four years <strong>of</strong> its life (talk about a satisfied homeowner).<br />
For <strong>the</strong> shrimp, <strong>the</strong> relationship is <strong>the</strong>refore known as<br />
obligatory. Even if only one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> species involved in a<br />
mutualistic symbiosis relies on that interaction for <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
survival, we still categorize <strong>the</strong> relationship as obligatory.<br />
The snapping shrimp are not <strong>the</strong> only organisms<br />
that <strong>the</strong> corkscrew anemone hosts. In <strong>the</strong>ir commonalgreen<br />
pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />
Much like a homeowner, <strong>the</strong> red snapping shrimp<br />
will choose, clean, and protect a corkscrew anemone.<br />
But unlike your traditional brick or wooden home, <strong>the</strong><br />
corkscrew anemone is a living being with an active incentive<br />
to protect and aid its invertebrate inhabitant. This<br />
relationship has piqued <strong>the</strong> interest <strong>of</strong> researchers and<br />
has been <strong>the</strong> subject <strong>of</strong> numerous studies throughout <strong>the</strong><br />
Western Atlantic. What are <strong>the</strong> mechanisms <strong>of</strong> this relationship?<br />
Why do red snapping shrimp show preference<br />
to <strong>the</strong> corkscrew anemone? Are <strong>the</strong>re efforts being made<br />
to observe and protect <strong>the</strong>se symbiotic species? These<br />
are a few <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> questions we will dive into as we investigate<br />
this oceanic perfect pairing.<br />
In any ecosystem, organisms are constantly interacting<br />
with one ano<strong>the</strong>r in a variety <strong>of</strong> ways. Symbiosis<br />
refers to <strong>the</strong> wide array <strong>of</strong> prolonged, close interactions<br />
that occur between individuals from two or more species<br />
within an ecosystem. You can think <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> relationship<br />
between snapping shrimp and corkscrew anemones like<br />
an ecological quid pro quo; a “tit for tat,” in layman’s<br />
terms. In scientific terms, we call this mutualism. Due<br />
to <strong>the</strong> nature <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> interactions between red snapping<br />
shrimp and corkscrew anemone we would refer to it,<br />
more specifically, as obligatory mutualism, but more<br />
on that later.<br />
We begin our discussion <strong>of</strong> this symbiotic mutualism<br />
with <strong>the</strong> corkscrew anemone: <strong>the</strong> host <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
relationship. The anemone’s physical structure serves as<br />
<strong>the</strong> habitat, providing its crustacean companion with a<br />
place to call home. Interestingly, red snapping shrimp<br />
have been shown to prefer spending <strong>the</strong>ir time under <strong>the</strong><br />
anemone, whereas o<strong>the</strong>r symbiotic crustaceans will be on<br />
or near <strong>the</strong>ir anemone.<br />
An anemone’s tentacles are armed with nematocysts,<br />
specialized cells that uncoil like a harpoon to<br />
inject a toxin into its victim. Fortunately for red snapping<br />
shrimp, <strong>the</strong>y have evolved <strong>the</strong> ability to develop immunity<br />
against <strong>the</strong>ir host’s sting through a process known as<br />
acclimation. This makes <strong>the</strong> anemone habitable for red<br />
snapping shrimp while also deterring predators looking<br />
to make a meal out <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> shrimp. Aside from shelter,<br />
<strong>the</strong> shrimp gain a food source by removing mucus, inorganic<br />
debris, and necrotic tissue from <strong>the</strong> anemone. This<br />
tissue, defined as excessive, diseased, or injured, and<br />
non-natural, would harm <strong>the</strong> anemone if not removed by<br />
<strong>the</strong> shrimp.<br />
38 www.timespub.tc
green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />
A Pederson cleaner shrimp (Ancylomenes pedersoni) at left and a yellowline arrow crab (Stenorhynchus seticornis) at right perch near, but not<br />
under, a corkscrew anemone (Bartholomea annulata).<br />
ity among Caribbean reefs, corkscrew anemones host<br />
several crustaceans from <strong>the</strong> order Decapoda, including<br />
o<strong>the</strong>r shrimp and even crabs. Pederson cleaner shrimp<br />
(Ancylomenes pedersoni) are particularly common tenants.<br />
These little shrimp make <strong>the</strong>ir living by eating<br />
parasites <strong>of</strong>f <strong>of</strong> passing fish, ano<strong>the</strong>r form <strong>of</strong> mutualistic<br />
symbiosis (see “Cleaning Stations: The Greatest<br />
Marine Restaurant and Spa”—<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> Winter<br />
2022/23). Pederson shrimp will position <strong>the</strong>mselves near<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir home anemone and wave <strong>the</strong>ir antennae to advertise<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir services to potential “clients.” O<strong>the</strong>r species include<br />
<strong>the</strong> yellowlined arrow crab (Stenorhynchus seticornis),<br />
and spotted cleaner shrimp (Periclimenes yucatanicus).<br />
Among <strong>the</strong> many symbionts, red snapping shrimp are<br />
<strong>the</strong> most territorial and aggressive, especially when not<br />
mated.<br />
Corkscrew anemones are also not <strong>the</strong> only anemone<br />
that forms partnership with o<strong>the</strong>r organisms in <strong>the</strong> Turks<br />
& Caicos waters. Giant anemones (Condylactis gigantea),<br />
branching anemones (Lebrunia danae), sun anemones<br />
(Stichodactyla helianthus) and knobby anemones<br />
(Ragactis lucida) are all known to host a variety <strong>of</strong> organisms.<br />
One example is pictured here: a banded clinging<br />
crab (Mithraculus cinctimanus), a small crab that can be<br />
associated with anemones, sponges, or coral, hangs on to<br />
<strong>the</strong> tentacles <strong>of</strong> a giant anemone (Condylactis gigantea).<br />
This relationship is considered commensal, ra<strong>the</strong>r than<br />
mutualistic as with snapping shrimp, since <strong>the</strong> crab benefits<br />
from living <strong>the</strong>re but <strong>the</strong> anemone is nei<strong>the</strong>r helped<br />
nor harmed.<br />
Studies have indicated that not all anemones are<br />
created equal in <strong>the</strong> eyes <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir prospective tenants.<br />
A 2012 study conducted in <strong>the</strong> Puerto Morelos coral<br />
reef found that <strong>the</strong> probability <strong>of</strong> a corkscrew anemone<br />
hosting a crustacean such as red snapping shrimp was<br />
influenced by reef zone and season. The likelihood <strong>of</strong> a<br />
corkscrew anemone hosting any crustacean was found to<br />
be significantly lower in <strong>the</strong> reef channels as compared<br />
to <strong>the</strong> back reef or fore reef. One proposed explanation<br />
is that anemones tend to be smaller in <strong>the</strong> reef channels<br />
as compared to <strong>the</strong> fore reef to compensate for <strong>the</strong> channels’<br />
high flow, which can dislodge an anemone. Why<br />
would this matter? Well, it appears that in <strong>the</strong> eyes <strong>of</strong> red<br />
snapping shrimp, bigger is better. For corkscrew anemones,<br />
<strong>the</strong> probability <strong>of</strong> harboring crustaceans increased<br />
significantly with surface area. This has interesting impli-<br />
SHUTTERSTOCK<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2023</strong> 39
green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />
C.E. O’BRIEN<br />
A banded clinging crab (Mithraculus cinctimanus) hangs onto <strong>the</strong> tentacles <strong>of</strong> a giant anemone (Condylactis gigantea).<br />
cations on <strong>the</strong> distribution <strong>of</strong> red snapping shrimp and<br />
corkscrew anemone symbiosis throughout <strong>the</strong> Western<br />
Atlantic.<br />
Every species plays a greater role in its ecosystem,<br />
including our perfect pair. Unfortunately, due largely to<br />
human activity, <strong>the</strong> corkscrew anemone is under threat.<br />
Anemone populations have been found to rely on frequent<br />
recruitment, <strong>the</strong> replenishment <strong>of</strong> young anemone<br />
into <strong>the</strong> existing population to promote individual growth<br />
and sustain viable populations. Sea anemones have short<br />
lifespans, and <strong>the</strong>y need to be constantly adding more<br />
individuals to <strong>the</strong>ir population. In Florida, researchers<br />
concluded that survival and recruitment rates <strong>of</strong> corkscrew<br />
anemones were higher among areas less impacted<br />
by humans and with cooler summer water temperatures.<br />
Rising ocean temperatures and human impact, defined as<br />
areas easily accessible to human traffic or visibly polluted<br />
with debris, pose threats to <strong>the</strong> corkscrew anemone populations.<br />
Corkscrew anemones are harvested and sold to<br />
aquariums for decorative purposes, but without fur<strong>the</strong>r<br />
research conservation efforts and management cannot be<br />
supported. Investigating <strong>the</strong> population dynamics <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
anemone is also important to understanding <strong>the</strong> implications<br />
for <strong>the</strong> shrimp symbiont.<br />
In <strong>the</strong> world <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> big blue ocean, it must be nice to<br />
have a place to call home, and a companion that has your<br />
back. The symbiotic relationship between <strong>the</strong> red snapping<br />
shrimp and corkscrew anemone is a great example<br />
<strong>of</strong> obligatory mutualism in <strong>the</strong> Western Atlantic—each<br />
species benefits <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r, making life in <strong>the</strong> ocean a little<br />
easier for both. As we continue to learn about <strong>the</strong>se species,<br />
we can better understand how our human activity<br />
affects <strong>the</strong>m and how we can better protect <strong>the</strong>m.<br />
In <strong>the</strong> long run, a healthy ecosystem tends to be better<br />
for everyone involved, especially humans who call <strong>the</strong><br />
Western Atlantic home. Overall, <strong>the</strong> fascinating relationship<br />
between <strong>the</strong> red snapping shrimp and <strong>the</strong> corkscrew<br />
anemone warrants fur<strong>the</strong>r investigation (and perhaps its<br />
own blockbuster animated film). a<br />
For detailed article references or more information<br />
about The School for Field Studies, contact Director Heidi<br />
Hertler on South Caicos at hhertler@fieldstudies.org or<br />
visit www.fieldstudies.org.<br />
40 www.timespub.tc
green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />
Earth Day Poetry Contest<br />
Earth Day is an annual event on April 22 to demonstrate support for environmental protection. First held on April 22,<br />
1970, it now includes a wide range <strong>of</strong> events celebrated by 1 billion people in more than 193 countries. The <strong>of</strong>ficial<br />
<strong>the</strong>me for <strong>2023</strong> was Invest In Our Planet.<br />
To celebrate Earth Day <strong>2023</strong>, <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos Department <strong>of</strong> Environment & Coastal Resources held an Earth<br />
Day Poetry Contest. They received many creative and thoughtful submissions, and selected <strong>the</strong> following entrants as<br />
<strong>the</strong> winners:<br />
Tyreke Glinton, age 17, H.J. Robinson High School<br />
Zavien Gardiner, age 11, Ona Glinton Primary School<br />
Pari Ochani, age 10, Precious Treasures Primary School<br />
Deep Blue Charters (Grand Turk) and SurfSide Ocean Academy (Providenciales) sponsored exciting prizes.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2023</strong> 41
green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />
42 www.timespub.tc
green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />
Celebrate, celebrate Earth Day is here,<br />
We live in TCI, God made it Beautiful by Nature,<br />
It may be tiny but it’s clean and clear,<br />
Beauty is one <strong>of</strong> its biggest feature.<br />
It’s time to cherish <strong>the</strong> beauty <strong>of</strong> our land,<br />
40 <strong>Islands</strong>/cays with world’s exceptional beaches,<br />
The crystalline turquoise water and white pearly sand,<br />
To stay calm, humble and kind, it preaches.<br />
People, animals and sea life share <strong>the</strong>se islands,<br />
We have warm ocean and warm wea<strong>the</strong>r both,<br />
All our pristine islands are like wonderful garlands,<br />
Keep it <strong>the</strong> same way, on this Earth Day let’s take an oath.<br />
Help us protect <strong>the</strong> land, coral, sea life and beauty,<br />
Reuse, reduce, and recycle, it’s our duty.<br />
By Pari Ochani<br />
GARY JAMES—PROVO PICTURES<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2023</strong> 43
SHUTTERSTOCK
feature<br />
Diving in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> is known for dramatic walls, warm, clear water, and healthy and diverse marine life. One <strong>of</strong> a number<br />
<strong>of</strong> excellent dive operators is Flamingo Divers (www.FlamingoDivers.com), who contributed <strong>the</strong> photo above. They specialize in small group<br />
diving and private dive charters.<br />
FLAMINGO DIVERS—WWW.FLAMINGODIVERS.COM<br />
Dive Enthusiast or Dive Addict?<br />
Land-based or liveaboard diving . . . which is for you?<br />
By Kelly Currington<br />
A chance to dive <strong>the</strong> world-renowned reefs <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> is a coveted destination for any<br />
diver. Known for dramatic walls, warm, crystal-clear turquoise water, healthy, diverse marine life, and<br />
little or no current, choosing TCI as your destination is <strong>the</strong> easy decision. Deciding on <strong>the</strong> best option<br />
for your dive vacation in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> can be a little more laborious, depending on many<br />
factors.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2023</strong> 45
Some think <strong>the</strong> perfect dive vacation consists <strong>of</strong><br />
doing a couple <strong>of</strong> dives during <strong>the</strong> day and <strong>the</strong>n enjoying<br />
island-life amenities like eating at oceanside restaurants,<br />
walking on <strong>the</strong> stunning beaches, and strolling through<br />
<strong>the</strong> local shops. O<strong>the</strong>rs view <strong>the</strong> ideal dive vacation as diving<br />
as much as possible (including night dives), sleeping<br />
and eating, and <strong>the</strong>n doing it all over again every day <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong>ir vacation.<br />
These differing perspectives require thought in <strong>the</strong><br />
planning process to achieve <strong>the</strong> desired experience for<br />
your perfect dive vacation. There are a few options for<br />
diving our beautiful reefs and walls. You can choose to<br />
mix diving in with o<strong>the</strong>r aspects <strong>of</strong> your vacation by diving<br />
day boats; you can immerse yourself in all <strong>the</strong> diving<br />
possible by choosing a liveaboard; or you can choose a<br />
private charter and create your own schedule.<br />
The Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> boast some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most<br />
beautiful resorts in <strong>the</strong> region, overlooking pristine white<br />
sand beaches leading into turquoise waters so stunning<br />
<strong>the</strong>y look Photoshopped—but I can assure you <strong>the</strong>y are<br />
absolutely real! When you choose to stay on land and<br />
dive with a day boat operator, you get to enjoy any one<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se beautiful properties while still getting your dive<br />
fix, which for a diver is crucial on all vacations.<br />
Most land-based operators provide two-tank trips, so<br />
you dive one location, have a surface interval with water<br />
and snacks, move to a new location, and <strong>the</strong>n dive <strong>the</strong><br />
second dive. Some <strong>of</strong>fer three-tank specials and private<br />
charters, where <strong>the</strong> schedule is a little more customizable.<br />
Because day boats are much smaller than liveaboard<br />
vessels, <strong>the</strong>y have <strong>the</strong> ability to get to locations that are<br />
inaccessible to liveaboards due to depth or weight restrictions<br />
on <strong>the</strong> mooring balls.<br />
Once your diving thirst has been quenched for <strong>the</strong><br />
day, <strong>the</strong>re are a variety <strong>of</strong> available adventures to be had<br />
above <strong>the</strong> surface. Everything from dining out, shopping,<br />
golf, tennis, casinos, exploring <strong>the</strong> pirate cave at Osprey<br />
Rock, The Hole in Long Bay, or trying ano<strong>the</strong>r sport like<br />
kite surfing, parasailing, kayaking, or paddleboarding <strong>the</strong><br />
mangroves. A must-do for every visitor is <strong>the</strong> Thursday<br />
Night Fish Fry on Providenciales. This is a festive celebration<br />
<strong>of</strong> island culture with music, dancing, and local<br />
vendors. When choosing land-based diving, you will have<br />
plenty <strong>of</strong> time to enjoy o<strong>the</strong>r activities.<br />
Ano<strong>the</strong>r benefit <strong>of</strong> diving land-based is it gives you<br />
<strong>the</strong> opportunity to visit <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r <strong>Islands</strong> and expand<br />
<strong>the</strong> boundaries <strong>of</strong> your holiday. You can choose to dive<br />
at some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r islands as well—each has features<br />
unique to <strong>the</strong> area—and broaden your diving experience<br />
in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos.<br />
A couple <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> all-inclusive properties include diving<br />
with your reservation, which is a big help with <strong>the</strong> budget.<br />
If you are traveling with friends and/or family members<br />
who don’t dive, this option usually works best so you<br />
can dive and still have time to spend with your travel<br />
companions. The all-Inclusive properties usually provide<br />
non-divers with activities to enjoy while you are out playing<br />
underwater. Everyone is happy!<br />
©AQUA TCI—WWW.AQUATCI.COM<br />
Dive operators have Instructors or Dive Masters in <strong>the</strong> water with you, and <strong>the</strong>y tend to know where you may have a magical encounter. This<br />
pod <strong>of</strong> dolphins was captured by Aqua TCI (www.aquatci.com), who specialize in small group diving, private charters, and private guiding.<br />
46 www.timespub.tc
This exciting dive site is called “Chimney” at North West Point <strong>of</strong>f Providenciales. At a<br />
depth <strong>of</strong> about 80 feet, this Caribbean reef shark is watching an intrepid diver who is<br />
inspecting <strong>the</strong> wall. Dive Provo is one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>’ oldest operations.<br />
BRILLIANT STUDIOS —WWW.BRILLIANTSTUDIOS.COM FOR DIVE PROVO—WWW.DIVEPROVO.COM
SHUTTERSTOCK<br />
©AQUA TCI—WWW.AQUATCI.COM<br />
Whe<strong>the</strong>r you are staying in a small hotel on Grand Turk or visiting for <strong>the</strong> day via cruise ship, <strong>the</strong> diving and snorkeling are superb. This shot<br />
was taken on Horseshoe Reef <strong>of</strong>f Gibb’s Cay.<br />
Divers with Aqua TCI (www.aquatci.com) are enjoying an encounter<br />
with a Hawksbill sea turtle. Aqua TCI was formed to encompass all<br />
<strong>the</strong> great dive practices that founders Stephanie and Bill Wallwork<br />
have seen and experienced from diving around <strong>the</strong> world.<br />
Now, if you are a dive addict (meaning you must dive<br />
as much as possible every day <strong>of</strong> your vacation, within<br />
<strong>the</strong> safety limits <strong>of</strong> your dive computer), choosing a liveaboard<br />
is <strong>the</strong> best way to feed your habit. Liveaboards are<br />
floating hotels for divers, where you eat, sleep, and dive<br />
without stepping foot on land once <strong>the</strong> vessel leaves <strong>the</strong><br />
marina for <strong>the</strong> week. This is a dive addict’s utopia!<br />
The liveaboards here usually get in four to five dives a<br />
day (including night dives), <strong>the</strong>y have a chef onboard who<br />
provides three meals a day plus snacks between dives.<br />
The cabins have on-suite bathrooms and are comfortable.<br />
The truth is, most people who choose <strong>the</strong> liveaboard<br />
option don’t spend any time in <strong>the</strong>ir rooms except to<br />
sleep. When not underwater, you are usually on <strong>the</strong> sundeck<br />
talking to o<strong>the</strong>r divers about diving, in <strong>the</strong> salon<br />
looking at photos and videos <strong>of</strong> your dives, or having<br />
meals and, yes, you guessed it, talking about diving.<br />
Liveaboard diving provides <strong>the</strong> opportunity to explore<br />
each dive site more thoroughly since you usually do two<br />
dives on each site. Night dives are something that most<br />
land-based operators don’t <strong>of</strong>fer as much due to <strong>the</strong> distance<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> reefs and <strong>the</strong> hazards <strong>of</strong> maneuvering <strong>the</strong><br />
channels in <strong>the</strong> dark, but since liveaboards are already<br />
moored up at one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> prime locations, you can explore<br />
<strong>the</strong> same dive sites at night that you have dived during<br />
48 www.timespub.tc
The turquoise waters surrounding <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> are stunningly clear, with little or no current year-round. This image includes<br />
Aqua TCI’s custom Newton 36-foot Dive Special boat, Chuck’s Mate.<br />
©AQUA TCI—WWW.AQUATCI.COM<br />
<strong>the</strong> day. This opens up a whole new world <strong>of</strong> amazing<br />
creatures as <strong>the</strong> day shift clocks out and <strong>the</strong> night shift<br />
clocks in.<br />
Considering you get accommodations, all meals,<br />
snacks, alcohol, and up to 27 dives in a week, this is a<br />
very cost-effective option for <strong>the</strong> dive addict. And, <strong>the</strong>re is<br />
something very special about waking up and having your<br />
c<strong>of</strong>fee out on <strong>the</strong> ocean as <strong>the</strong> sun rises. Falling asleep<br />
as you are rocked by <strong>the</strong> motion <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> sea is better than<br />
any sleep aid.<br />
The third, and least cost-effective choice, would be<br />
a private vessel, where you can design your own schedule<br />
for diving based on your needs and goals for your<br />
holiday. You can decide to go out and dive during <strong>the</strong><br />
day, returning to <strong>the</strong> marina in <strong>the</strong> afternoon so you can<br />
have access to all <strong>the</strong> amenities <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> island. Or, you<br />
can choose to stay out for days and transit around from<br />
dive location to dive location, picking and choosing which<br />
sites you dive and how many dives you do (always following<br />
your dive computers NDL limits).<br />
Both land-based and liveaboards <strong>of</strong>fer dive training.<br />
You can choose to become a diver or continue your dive<br />
education, making your holiday both fun and educational.<br />
Most who go on a liveaboard are at minimum Open Water<br />
certified, but <strong>of</strong>ten choose to do <strong>the</strong>ir Nitrox, Advanced,<br />
or Specialty courses throughout <strong>the</strong> week. You are surrounded<br />
by experienced instructors, so what better time<br />
to increase your skill set and knowledge?<br />
Land-based operators <strong>of</strong>fer courses from Discover<br />
Scuba (a try-scuba experience) all <strong>the</strong> way up through<br />
Instructor, so always check ahead <strong>of</strong> time and schedule<br />
training early on to ensure an instructor is available<br />
during your desired dates. Liveaboards are a great place<br />
to continue your dive training and do specialty courses.<br />
All dive operators, whe<strong>the</strong>r land-based or liveaboards,<br />
have certified Instructors or Divemasters in <strong>the</strong> water<br />
with divers, guiding you along <strong>the</strong> reef and showing you<br />
points <strong>of</strong> interests, whe<strong>the</strong>r it be a structure, coral formation,<br />
or marine creature. They tend to know where <strong>the</strong><br />
“good stuff” is!<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2023</strong> 49
FLAMINGO DIVERS—WWW.FLAMINGODIVERS.COM<br />
Diving along TCI’s healthy coral reefs is a joyful and peaceful experience. That’s why <strong>the</strong> staff at Flamingo Divers (www.FlamingoDivers.com)<br />
have been plying <strong>the</strong> Caribbean waters for <strong>the</strong> better part <strong>of</strong> 30 years and love what <strong>the</strong>y do.
The Turks & Caicos Aggressor II liveaboard yacht awards <strong>the</strong> Iron Diver medal to guests who do all <strong>the</strong> dives <strong>of</strong>fered during <strong>the</strong> week, usually<br />
26 to 27 dives. It is hard-earned and for hard-core divers. The author is third from left. She and <strong>the</strong> two guests on <strong>the</strong> left are <strong>the</strong> only three<br />
who made all <strong>the</strong> dives during a recent trip.<br />
KELLY CURRINGTON<br />
Take <strong>the</strong> opportunity to pick <strong>the</strong>ir brains about local<br />
inhabitants. Ask about marine creatures, coral, local<br />
conservation efforts, etc. One <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> great things about<br />
diving with an Instructor or Divemaster is that <strong>the</strong>y are<br />
knowledgeable about <strong>the</strong> waters <strong>the</strong>y dive and enjoy<br />
sharing that knowledge. Instead <strong>of</strong> saying you saw a blue<br />
fish, yellow fish, flat fish, or mohawk fish, <strong>the</strong>y will teach<br />
you <strong>the</strong> proper common names <strong>of</strong> fish, creatures, and<br />
coral as well as telling you interesting details and facts<br />
about <strong>the</strong>m. It’s a fun way to learn.<br />
Regardless <strong>of</strong> preference for your dive holiday, <strong>the</strong><br />
ultimate reward will be dipping below <strong>the</strong> surface and<br />
exploring our beautiful reefs, bustling with marine life,<br />
and dramatic walls that drop <strong>of</strong>f into <strong>the</strong> abyss. The reefs<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos boast a kaleidoscope <strong>of</strong> colors,<br />
a plethora <strong>of</strong> amazing creatures, both large and small,<br />
pelagic and macro, <strong>of</strong>fering once-in-a lifetime encounters.<br />
One common thread in all <strong>the</strong> choices is <strong>the</strong> chance<br />
to mingle with o<strong>the</strong>r divers, where <strong>the</strong>re is an unspoken<br />
bond and shared interest in <strong>the</strong> sea, marine life, and<br />
adventure in general. Many lifelong friendships have been<br />
forged over dinner planning <strong>the</strong> next dive trip.<br />
Come experience <strong>the</strong> magic <strong>of</strong> diving <strong>the</strong> Turks &<br />
Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. If you are underwater and blowing bubbles<br />
it will no doubt be <strong>the</strong> most amazing holiday ever. a<br />
Author Kelly Currington says, “My first dip below <strong>the</strong> service<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> sea brought a realm <strong>of</strong> beauty, tranquility, and<br />
peace to my life that I had never known before. It changed<br />
my life in an instant and my soul was completely saturated<br />
with <strong>the</strong> power, vastness, and mysterious riches it<br />
holds. I will spend every minute I can in that underwater<br />
world.”<br />
KELLY CURRINGTON<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2023</strong> 51
new development<br />
Opposite page: Nivå is Swedish for “level” and each <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> six island retreats are an arrangement <strong>of</strong> stacked living levels enveloped in slender<br />
“sleeves” for protection from <strong>the</strong> sun and breeze.<br />
Above: The Nivå villas seem melded into <strong>the</strong>ir limestone ridge; each has a floating deck in front, providing easy access to <strong>the</strong> turquoise sea<br />
and an ideal spot for dining and drinks.<br />
Pushing <strong>the</strong> Boundaries<br />
Nivå limited villa series makes a bold architectural statement.<br />
By Kathy Borsuk ~ Renderings Courtesy Windward<br />
It’s inspiring to see architecture that reacts to a challenging environment with boldness and creativity.<br />
The south shore <strong>of</strong> Providenciales is lined with craggy limestone ridges, not <strong>the</strong> classic ivory beaches <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> north side. While this allows buildings to have a close relationship with <strong>the</strong> ocean, it does require a<br />
thoughtful approach to design. Nivå, an exclusive collection <strong>of</strong> only six villas on Turtle Tail, pushes <strong>the</strong><br />
boundaries <strong>of</strong> contemporary architecture in stunning fashion.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2023</strong> 53
Nivå’s location at <strong>the</strong> tip <strong>of</strong> Turtle Tail <strong>of</strong>fers views <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ocean and Caicos Bank, as well as <strong>the</strong> natural mangrove wetlands to <strong>the</strong> back.<br />
I recently spoke to Ingo Reckhorn, Director <strong>of</strong><br />
Windward Development, about <strong>the</strong> process that brought<br />
forth Nivå. He was as enthusiastic as I about introducing<br />
<strong>the</strong> limited collection <strong>of</strong> island retreats that seem carved<br />
into <strong>the</strong> ironshore and capture <strong>the</strong> sweeping horizons <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> area. When Windward secured <strong>the</strong> 2.9 acre parcel <strong>of</strong><br />
land at <strong>the</strong> tip <strong>of</strong> Turtle Tail, <strong>the</strong>y knew <strong>the</strong>y had something<br />
special. Here, you could watch <strong>the</strong> sun rise over <strong>the</strong><br />
Caicos Bank and set over Juba Sound. The mangrove wetlands<br />
to <strong>the</strong> north were protected, so views would remain<br />
natural and unimpeded. Access to <strong>the</strong> property was along<br />
a quiet winding road that promised privacy.<br />
The Windward team, led by Ivor Stanbrook, himself an<br />
architect, has always believed in pushing <strong>the</strong> bar <strong>of</strong> what<br />
is possible in architectural design, yet at <strong>the</strong> same time<br />
keeping in unison with <strong>the</strong> environment. After months <strong>of</strong><br />
searching, <strong>the</strong>y discovered award-winning Scandinavian<br />
architect Magnus Ström. His philosophy <strong>of</strong> framing views,<br />
capturing horizons, and celebrating <strong>the</strong> power <strong>of</strong> clean<br />
lines and flowing spaces forged an immediate connection.<br />
After visiting <strong>the</strong> site, Magnus and his associates<br />
were elated at <strong>the</strong> opportunity and Nivå was born.<br />
Nivå is Swedish for “level” and <strong>the</strong> six island retreats<br />
are each an arrangement <strong>of</strong> stacked living levels that<br />
seem melded into <strong>the</strong> layers <strong>of</strong> limestone. What I found<br />
most intriguing were <strong>the</strong> slender timber “sleeves” enveloping<br />
each level. Besides s<strong>of</strong>tening <strong>the</strong> lines <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> homes<br />
and framing <strong>the</strong> natural views, <strong>the</strong>y provide shelter from<br />
<strong>the</strong> sun and brisk ocean breezes, allowing for large, open<br />
outdoor living spaces that can be enjoyed at all times.<br />
Interiors are defined by edge-to-edge glass and views<br />
flow through each level, <strong>of</strong>fering unfettered opportunities<br />
for “<strong>the</strong> flow <strong>of</strong> life framed within <strong>the</strong> flow <strong>of</strong> nature.”<br />
The design considers just how people use <strong>the</strong>ir second<br />
homes <strong>the</strong>se days. Ingo explains, “Owners <strong>of</strong> luxury<br />
properties and those who vacation in <strong>the</strong>m tend to travel<br />
in ‘tribes’ <strong>of</strong> family and friends. Their home is a reprieve<br />
from a stressful world, not a resort environment. Once<br />
<strong>the</strong>y arrive, <strong>the</strong>y don’t want to leave <strong>the</strong> property. They<br />
typically retain a private chef to prepare meals and a<br />
house manager to shop and manage chores. If <strong>the</strong>y want<br />
to dive, fish, or explore <strong>the</strong> area by <strong>the</strong> boat, <strong>the</strong>y will<br />
call on a private charter to pick <strong>the</strong>m up and drop <strong>the</strong>m<br />
<strong>of</strong>f. This makes it especially important that <strong>the</strong> home is<br />
completely comfortable and functional.”<br />
54 www.timespub.tc
Nivå villas 1 through 5 <strong>of</strong>fer over 4,000 square feet<br />
<strong>of</strong> indoor space with 4 bedrooms and 4 1/2 baths, and a<br />
total area <strong>of</strong> over 8,200 square feet in covered and uncovered<br />
outdoor space. The living floors are set 20 to 25<br />
feet above sea level. Beginning at <strong>the</strong> podium level, an<br />
infinity pool runs across <strong>the</strong> front <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> villa, with oceanfront<br />
sunken seating areas and a firepit allowing owners<br />
and guests an intimate connection with <strong>the</strong> magnificent<br />
landscape. Stacked atop <strong>the</strong> podium level is <strong>the</strong> main living<br />
space. The design maximizes views and features an<br />
expansive dual-aspect kitchen with access to terraces on<br />
both sides.<br />
The second level, with its contrasting external sleeve,<br />
houses <strong>the</strong> four bedrooms. At <strong>the</strong> pinnacle sits <strong>the</strong> grand<br />
primary level, set back to create a stunning visual statement.<br />
Slender elegant overhangs provide additional<br />
outdoor space for covered terraces and an outdoor bath<br />
and shower. The optional ro<strong>of</strong> terrace features views<br />
across both <strong>the</strong> Caicos Bank and Juba Sound.<br />
Interiors include an <strong>of</strong>fice with Juba Sound water<br />
views, a kitchen island, dedicated powder, pantry, and<br />
laundry rooms on <strong>the</strong> first floor, a large owner’s storage<br />
area on <strong>the</strong> second floor, and one indoor and one<br />
outdoor bathtub. Buyers can personalize <strong>the</strong>ir villa with<br />
a selection <strong>of</strong> ancillary options including <strong>the</strong> third floor<br />
primary bedroom level with owner’s lock-out, balcony,<br />
ro<strong>of</strong> terrace and wet bar; an additional elevator across <strong>the</strong><br />
main floors; a garage, guest house, and gym; a hot tub<br />
and an evening plunge pool.<br />
Exteriors are simple in form, with <strong>the</strong> flow and function<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> house articulated by contrasting masonry,<br />
glass, and timber. Each villa has a slightly different<br />
arrangement along <strong>the</strong> ridgeline, hewn to <strong>the</strong> call <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
land. Their graceful outdoor pools (with optional hot<br />
tub) and fire pits overlook <strong>the</strong> Caicos Bank and patios<br />
are separated with privacy walls and wide garden areas<br />
to retain an enclave in <strong>the</strong> beauty <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> environment.<br />
Owners can choose to add an ocean staircase cut into <strong>the</strong><br />
ironshore, leading to <strong>the</strong> floating decks that front each<br />
villa for direct access to <strong>the</strong> ocean for day trips, kayaking,<br />
watersports, fishing, diving, and exploring <strong>the</strong> area.<br />
Nivå 6 is a singular showpiece at corner <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> community<br />
with over 6,500 square feet <strong>of</strong> indoor space and<br />
over 14,700 square feet <strong>of</strong> total area. Along with unprecedented<br />
villa frontage <strong>of</strong> 167 feet, its sweeping bedroom<br />
level includes 7 ocean-facing bedrooms with breathtaking<br />
views. All <strong>the</strong> optional features <strong>of</strong> Nivå 1 to 5 are<br />
included in this trophy property, along with a vast shaded<br />
terrace with seating areas for dining, an outdoor kitchen,<br />
The longest established legal practice<br />
in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong><br />
Real Estate Investments<br />
& Property Development<br />
Immigration, Residency<br />
& Business Licensing<br />
Company & Commercial Law<br />
Trusts & Estate Planning<br />
Banking & Insurance<br />
1 Caribbean Place, P.O. Box 97<br />
Leeward Highway, Providenciales<br />
Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>, BWI<br />
Ph: 649 946 4344 • Fax: 649 946 4564<br />
E-Mail: dempsey@tciway.tc<br />
Cockburn House, P.O. Box 70<br />
Market Street, Grand Turk<br />
Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>, BWI<br />
Ph: 649 946 2245 • Fax: 649 946 2758<br />
E-Mail: ffdlawco@tciway.tc<br />
john redmond associates ltd.<br />
architects & designers<br />
construction consultants<br />
project management<br />
p.o.box 21, providenciales, turks & caicos is.<br />
tel.: 9464440 cell: 2314569 email: redmond@tciway.tc<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2023</strong> 55
and a Juba Sound-facing ro<strong>of</strong>top terrace. At <strong>the</strong> highest<br />
level rests <strong>the</strong> grand primary area, where <strong>the</strong> extended<br />
overhang provides for uninterrupted outdoor living from<br />
sunrise to sunset, year-round.<br />
With a unique interpretation <strong>of</strong> Brazilian Modernism<br />
and Scandinavian styles, interiors are designed to be<br />
simple, uncluttered, and in natural tones—an antidote to<br />
modern life. Fresh <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> success <strong>of</strong> South Bank and Arc,<br />
Windward has developed a worldwide network <strong>of</strong> suppliers<br />
extending to <strong>the</strong> UK, Europe, and now, Scandinavia.<br />
This allows access to distinctive furniture, fittings, and<br />
fabrics not commonly used in <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>, but readily<br />
administered with Windward’s years <strong>of</strong> expertise.<br />
Exteriors create a stillness and quietness with <strong>the</strong> use <strong>of</strong><br />
walnut timbers and natural vegetation.<br />
Ström Architects is in unison with Windward to<br />
build integrated sustainability into <strong>the</strong>ir properties.<br />
Construction is carefully planned to decrease demand for<br />
energy and water, with materials used responsibly and<br />
efficiently. Solar packages are available at <strong>the</strong> owners’<br />
option.<br />
Who are <strong>the</strong> likely buyers? Ingo expects <strong>the</strong>y will be<br />
Americans and Canadians who are nature-oriented, crave<br />
privacy, and appreciate purchasing a property with architectural<br />
significance. There will be no structured rental<br />
program or monthly fees, and owners can choose whe<strong>the</strong>r<br />
Above: Interiors are defined by edge-to-edge glass and views flow<br />
through each level.<br />
The dual aspect kitchen has access to terraces on both sides.<br />
56 www.timespub.tc
Above: Outdoor pools and fire pits overlook <strong>the</strong> Caicos Bank, with<br />
patios separated by privacy walls and wide garden areas.<br />
This view <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> back <strong>of</strong> a villa shows how Nivå is integrated into its<br />
environment.<br />
<strong>the</strong>y want to rent <strong>the</strong>ir villas (or <strong>the</strong> optional third floor<br />
bedroom/lockout) and can select <strong>the</strong>ir own management<br />
company. Nivå villas are priced from $5,500,000 to<br />
$9,950,000 and sold through Turks & Caicos So<strong>the</strong>by’s<br />
International Realty. Construction will proceed independently<br />
for each villa as each is sold.<br />
I’ve found that Windward is an uncommon development<br />
group with a unique vision. Ivor Stanbrook says,<br />
“Our only constant is <strong>the</strong> creativity that runs through<br />
everything we do and our ability and determination to<br />
make anything possible. Our agile, bright, and mindful<br />
team inspires those who work with us to find unexpected<br />
answers and create iconic developments.” I’m<br />
always amazed at <strong>the</strong>ir ability to look at a piece <strong>of</strong> vacant<br />
land, see what o<strong>the</strong>rs don’t, and create a masterpiece.<br />
Windward’s o<strong>the</strong>r projects include <strong>the</strong> Providenciales<br />
waterfront residential communities <strong>of</strong> South Bank, Blue<br />
Cay, and <strong>the</strong> Peninsula at Emerald Point. There’s no doubt<br />
that Nivå will be <strong>the</strong>ir next success. a<br />
For more information, visit www.niva6.com.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2023</strong> 57
SHUTTERSTOCK
food for thought<br />
Opposite page: Individuals who follow a vegan diet have opted to remove all animal-based foods. This vegan assortment includes falafel,<br />
edamame beans, carrots, cucumbers, radishes, tomatoes, avocado, hummus, and sesame seeds.<br />
Above: Fruit is a staple food group for a nutritious vegan diet. This cool dessert includes mango, papaya, passion fruit and kiwi jelly.<br />
SHUTTERSTOCK<br />
Sun, Surf, and . . . Salad?<br />
A vegan visit to TCI.<br />
By Rachel Craft<br />
When I landed in Providenciales for a week-long beach vacation, my suitcase was packed with <strong>the</strong> usual:<br />
swimsuits, snorkel gear, gallons <strong>of</strong> sunscreen—and plenty <strong>of</strong> emergency snacks. No <strong>of</strong>fense, TCI; I do<br />
this everywhere I travel. It’s one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> survival instincts you develop when you go vegan.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2023</strong> 59
A stricter version <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> now-popular “plant-based”<br />
diet, a vegan diet eschews all animal products, including<br />
meat, fish (yep, that includes conch), and dairy. This can<br />
make dining out a challenge, especially while traveling,<br />
as many regional cuisines rely heavily on nonvegan ingredients<br />
like eggs and butter. The word “vegan” is virtually<br />
unheard-<strong>of</strong> in some countries—and most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>rn<br />
United States, which, culinarily speaking, is practically<br />
ano<strong>the</strong>r country. Last time I was in Alabama, I had to<br />
spell <strong>the</strong> word “salad” into a McDonald’s drive-through<br />
window. If you can believe it, <strong>the</strong>y didn’t have any.<br />
After 15 years as a vegan, I’ve learned how to reconcile<br />
my penchant for travel with my caloric needs. I book<br />
hotels with kitchens wherever possible (thank you, Inn<br />
at Grace Bay), and I have no shame packing an entire jar<br />
<strong>of</strong> peanut butter and loaf <strong>of</strong> bread in my checked bag.<br />
However, I was pleasantly surprised by <strong>the</strong> number <strong>of</strong><br />
vegan dining options I discovered on <strong>the</strong> small island <strong>of</strong><br />
Providenciales. Most menus had at least one dish that<br />
was ei<strong>the</strong>r vegan or easily veganized, and all <strong>the</strong> servers<br />
I spoke to were familiar with veganism and happy to help<br />
me tweak my order as needed. Between beach sessions<br />
and snorkel trips, I sampled a variety <strong>of</strong> filling, flavorful<br />
vegan dishes across <strong>the</strong> island.<br />
For breakfast and brunch, I visited Shay Café on Grace<br />
Bay for a hearty slab <strong>of</strong> avocado toast. The Graceway<br />
Gourmet supermarket has a long list <strong>of</strong> vegan smoothies<br />
made with oat milk, hemp milk, coconut milk, and rice<br />
protein; and <strong>the</strong> drink shop Beans & Leaves <strong>of</strong>fers many<br />
flavors <strong>of</strong> nondairy boba tea. Sail Shades, a new restaurant<br />
in Long Bay, is known for its “doubles”—sandwiches<br />
made <strong>of</strong> curried chickpeas nestled between deep-fried<br />
flatbreads. This addictive breakfast dish and hangover<br />
cure originated in Trinidad & Tobago, and has grown into<br />
a popular street food throughout <strong>the</strong> Caribbean. It seems<br />
veganism is on trend in many Caribbean islands, which<br />
is no surprise for places where fruits like coconut are<br />
easy to grow and where <strong>the</strong> local cuisine has been heavily<br />
influenced by Indian, Asian, and African traditions.<br />
At home in <strong>the</strong> US, I’ve learned non-Western restaurants<br />
are some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most dependable places to find<br />
vegan food—and TCI is no exception. Grace Bay’s Thai<br />
Orchid <strong>of</strong>fers several t<strong>of</strong>u dishes, and <strong>the</strong> Mexican eatery<br />
Skull Rock serves sizzling t<strong>of</strong>u fajitas. Turks Kebab uses<br />
falafel and hummus as protein in <strong>the</strong>ir vegetarian pitas,<br />
which can be veganized by removing <strong>the</strong> feta and tzatziki.<br />
Yoshi’s Sushi has several veg-friendly options, including<br />
<strong>the</strong> ra<strong>the</strong>r vaguely named “spring roll with avocado.” This<br />
SHAY CAFE LOUNGE<br />
The Avocado Toast served at Shay Café Lounge at Le Vele Plaza in Grace Bay was a favorite breakfast or brunch stop for <strong>the</strong> vegan author.<br />
60 www.timespub.tc
CHRISTINE MORDEN—PARADISE PHOTOGRAPHY<br />
Island Raw’s founder Regina Radisic operates a fully vegan café. It specializes in locally crafted kombucha (at left) and cold pressed juice<br />
(at right), along with artisanal chocolate. Her goal is to create “plant-based cuisine committed to helping you elevate your body, beauty, and<br />
well-being.”<br />
title fails to do justice to <strong>the</strong> unique deliciousness <strong>of</strong> this<br />
sushi roll, which has a deep-fried veggie spring roll, still<br />
hot, wrapped up inside.<br />
In TCI, <strong>the</strong> burgeoning vegan scene seems closely tied<br />
to <strong>the</strong> health food movement. Provo’s two fully vegan<br />
cafés, <strong>the</strong> Farmacy and Island Raw, cater to both veg-<br />
ans and health-conscious diners seeking organic eats<br />
free <strong>of</strong> preservatives and o<strong>the</strong>r additives. Island Raw’s<br />
founder, Regina Radisic, says her café is frequented by<br />
Rastafarians, many <strong>of</strong> whom follow a clean, mostly plantbased<br />
“ital” diet as a way to streng<strong>the</strong>n <strong>the</strong>ir sacred bond<br />
with nature.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2023</strong> 61
ELEMENTO PHOTOGRAHY—TURKS & CAICOS<br />
Even upscale, gourmet restaurants on Providenciales <strong>of</strong>fer vegan options, as shown here at Grace Bay Club’s Infiniti Restaurant and Raw Bar.<br />
Health is a common reason for people to adopt a<br />
vegan diet, and you don’t have to be a nutritionist to see<br />
why. Less meat and dairy means less fat and cholesterol;<br />
more veggies means more fiber and vitamins. Studies<br />
have shown plant-based eating to lower <strong>the</strong> risk <strong>of</strong> heart<br />
disease, type 2 diabetes, colon cancer, and more.<br />
But health is just one facet <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> vibrant world <strong>of</strong><br />
veganism. Some vegans do it for ethical reasons, to<br />
avoid contributing to <strong>the</strong> inhumane practices and animal<br />
suffering that occur on factory farms. Many <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se<br />
less health-minded vegans, myself included, don’t mind<br />
eating “slutty” vegan foods like veggie burgers and coconut<br />
milk ice cream. I was pleased to discover that many<br />
restaurants on Provo, including <strong>the</strong> iconic Cocovan, <strong>of</strong>fer<br />
a veggie burger—though Big Al’s Island Grill wins <strong>the</strong><br />
prize with three different types <strong>of</strong> vegan patty. On my<br />
first night on <strong>the</strong> island, I discovered acai sorbet and<br />
nondairy mango s<strong>of</strong>t-serve at <strong>the</strong> candy and ice cream<br />
shop Giggles. (I returned shamelessly every night until<br />
my plane left for <strong>the</strong> US.)<br />
62 www.timespub.tc
SHUTTERSTOCK<br />
Graceway Gourmet <strong>of</strong>fers a long list <strong>of</strong> vegan smoothies to go.<br />
Ano<strong>the</strong>r common reason people adopt a vegan diet is<br />
to shrink <strong>the</strong>ir environmental footprint. According to <strong>the</strong><br />
UN’s Food & Agriculture Organization, <strong>the</strong> meat and dairy<br />
industries alone account for nearly 15% <strong>of</strong> global greenhouse<br />
gas emissions—and that’s not to mention <strong>the</strong> vast<br />
amounts <strong>of</strong> land and water required to raise livestock, or<br />
<strong>the</strong> pollution caused by manure run<strong>of</strong>f. While <strong>the</strong> positive<br />
environmental impact <strong>of</strong> a vegan diet is well established,<br />
it’s a little different on an island, where so many foods<br />
have to be shipped in over long distances. This leads to<br />
more greenhouse gas emissions, and more preservatives<br />
added to food to ensure it survives <strong>the</strong> journey.<br />
As a result, some restaurants in TCI are striving to<br />
incorporate more locally grown ingredients. The Farm,<br />
<strong>the</strong> latest culinary venture by Grace Bay’s Seven Stars<br />
Resort, harvests <strong>the</strong>ir produce from an on-site hydroponic<br />
farm—bringing diners fresh, minimally processed fruit<br />
and vegetables without <strong>the</strong> financial and environmental<br />
costs <strong>of</strong> transportation. This isn’t <strong>the</strong> only vegan-friendly<br />
resort restaurant; many <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> swanky beachfront spots<br />
along Grace Bay <strong>of</strong>fer at least one vegan option. Infiniti<br />
has a vegan curry entrée, Solana has a t<strong>of</strong>u stir-fry, and<br />
Vita at Rock House has an entire vegan/vegetarian menu.<br />
As a vegan, I sometimes field questions about my opinion<br />
on vegetarians, Meatless Monday-ers, or o<strong>the</strong>r “less<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2023</strong> 63
Solana! at Ocean Club West <strong>of</strong>fers this colorful, appealing, and tasty<br />
t<strong>of</strong>u stir-fry as a vegan option.<br />
SOLANA! RESTAURANT<br />
Food for Thought provides free daily<br />
breakfast to government school students.<br />
A donation <strong>of</strong> $300 will provide breakfast<br />
to one child for a whole school year.<br />
To donate or learn more please<br />
email info@foodforthoughttci.com<br />
or visit foodforthoughttci.com<br />
Food for Thought Foundation Inc. (NP #102)<br />
committed” people in this dietary lifestyle. The answer is:<br />
I love <strong>the</strong>m all. I’m thrilled to see o<strong>the</strong>rs recognizing <strong>the</strong><br />
benefits <strong>of</strong> vegan eating and partaking in whatever way<br />
works for <strong>the</strong>m. I love to support fully vegan restaurants,<br />
but I also think it’s important to recognize omnivorous<br />
eateries that <strong>of</strong>fer a vegan menu or even a single vegan<br />
dish. It’s encouraging to see so many people learning<br />
about <strong>the</strong> vegan lifestyle and joining <strong>the</strong> movement, even<br />
in a small way. And like many people and places across<br />
<strong>the</strong> globe, TCI is moving in <strong>the</strong> right direction.<br />
When I returned home from my blissful beach vacation,<br />
I still had half a jar <strong>of</strong> leftover peanut butter in my<br />
suitcase—and I count that as a win. a<br />
Rachel Craft is a Colorado-based writer and recovered<br />
engineer who loves all things outdoors. When<br />
she’s not busy exploring, she writes fantasy and sci-fi<br />
stories for children. You can learn more about her at<br />
www.racheldelaneycraft.com.<br />
64 www.timespub.tc
astrolabe<br />
newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />
Front Street, PO Box 188, Grand Turk, Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>, BWI TKCA 1ZZ<br />
tel 649 247 2160/US incoming 786 220 1159 • email info@tcmuseum.org • web www.tcmuseum.org<br />
The story <strong>of</strong> John Ney Reynolds includes a mystery. What happened to land on East Caicos for which he had a 99-year lease from <strong>the</strong> government?<br />
Did his children give or sell <strong>the</strong>ir interests in it to his daughter Grace Reynolds? The story remains to be told.<br />
JAMES ROY—PARADISE PHOTOGRAPHY<br />
“John” <strong>of</strong> All Trades<br />
The unfinished story <strong>of</strong> John Ney Reynolds, 19th century salt proprietor,<br />
merchant, cattleman, and guano exporter.<br />
Story & Historic Images By Jeff Dodge<br />
John Ney Reynolds and his wife Bridget were an Irish couple who emigrated to <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong><br />
around 1865. The story <strong>of</strong> this entrepreneur and his family has been painstakingly re-constructed with<br />
original source material, although <strong>the</strong>re are still some loose ends. What a fascinating life <strong>the</strong>y lived over<br />
a century and a half ago!<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2023</strong> 65
astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />
Origin and family<br />
John Ney Reynolds was born in Dublin, Ireland in 1828.<br />
There he married a woman named Bridget (last name<br />
unknown). They had at least one child, Leonore (Norah),<br />
before <strong>the</strong>y moved to <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. Leonore<br />
was born in 1860.<br />
It is not certain when John and Bridget Reynolds<br />
moved to <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>, however it was at<br />
least by 1865 because by <strong>the</strong>n Reynolds was in <strong>the</strong> salt<br />
business at East Harbour (now Cockburn Harbour) on<br />
South Caicos Island.<br />
John and Bridget had seven children that survived<br />
childhood and were alive when John Reynolds wrote and<br />
signed an addendum to his Will in February 1890. The<br />
children: Mary, Leonore (Norah), Eleanor, Alice, John N.<br />
Jr., Robert, and Henry were mentioned in this addendum<br />
as was Grace, a daughter by John’s second wife.<br />
John married Elizabeth A. S. Adams <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks &<br />
Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> in 1872, just a year after Bridget’s death.<br />
They had a daughter, Grace or Gracie, as she was called,<br />
in 1880.<br />
Salt proprietor and merchant<br />
By 1865, John Reynolds was in <strong>the</strong> salt business at East<br />
Top: This picture postcard presents a view <strong>of</strong> East Harbour (Cockburn<br />
Harbour) on South Caicos Island circa 1907.<br />
Above: By <strong>the</strong> time Bridget died in 1871, she had at least seven children<br />
who reached adulthood. She was only 33 years old when she<br />
died. If Ca<strong>the</strong>rine Elizabeth Reynolds (listed above Bridget in <strong>the</strong> St.<br />
Thomas Registry <strong>of</strong> Deaths) was her daughter, did both perish from<br />
a disease such as typhoid?<br />
Harbour. His business interests <strong>the</strong>re eventually included<br />
<strong>the</strong> Victoria Salina, which was probably <strong>the</strong> largest salt<br />
pond on <strong>the</strong> island, and a company store that catered to<br />
his salt workers.<br />
Reynolds paid his employees with copper tokens that<br />
could only be exchanged for goods in his store. Although<br />
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astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />
SAILROCK ARCHIVAL COLLECTIONS<br />
Reynolds was <strong>the</strong> first on<br />
<strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong><br />
to use <strong>the</strong> “truck system,”<br />
he was not <strong>the</strong> last.<br />
Reynolds’ tokens were<br />
issued in three denominations—25<br />
cents, 12 1/2<br />
cents and 6 1/4 cents (U.S.<br />
currency).<br />
Top: The West Caicos Sisal Company continued <strong>the</strong> practice <strong>of</strong> paying<br />
employees with tokens into <strong>the</strong> 1890s, in spite <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> “truck” system<br />
being abolished in 1881 by <strong>the</strong> TCI Legislative Board.<br />
Above: This photo shows salt waiting to be shipped at East Harbour<br />
(Cockburn Harbour) circa 1910.<br />
East Caicos land purchase and <strong>the</strong><br />
Stamers–Reynolds connection<br />
On December 13, 1871, acting as trustee for his children,<br />
John N. Reynolds purchased 1,288 acres <strong>of</strong> land<br />
at Breezy Point on East Caicos—once considered part<br />
<strong>of</strong> Grand Caicos (now Middle Caicos)—from Copeland<br />
Place Stamers, who was acting on his own behalf and as<br />
attorney for his two siblings, Benjamin Henry Stamers<br />
and Susan Deborah Stamers. They were <strong>the</strong> children <strong>of</strong><br />
Hon. Copeland John Stamers who passed away in 1866.<br />
Copeland John Stamers acquired <strong>the</strong> 1,288 acre parcel <strong>of</strong><br />
land at Breezy Point in <strong>the</strong> early 1800s.<br />
Included in this sale to John Reynolds was a<br />
99-year lease for additional property on East Caicos.<br />
Copeland Place Stamers had obtained this lease from <strong>the</strong><br />
Government <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> on March 14,<br />
1871. The size <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> leased property is unknown, but<br />
it likely included most <strong>of</strong> East Caicos not already part <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> 1,288 acre parcel at Breezy Point. The lease stipulated<br />
that <strong>the</strong> lessee pay <strong>the</strong> government £10 a year for five<br />
years and that he maintain at least 25 head <strong>of</strong> horned<br />
cattle on <strong>the</strong> property. The lease specified that <strong>the</strong> government<br />
would retain mineral rights.<br />
John Reynolds paid <strong>the</strong> three children <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Hon.<br />
Copeland John Stamers $1,000 (£200) for <strong>the</strong> 1,288 acre<br />
parcel at Breezy Point and <strong>the</strong> 99-year lease for additional<br />
property on <strong>the</strong> island.<br />
Copeland John Stamers<br />
Copeland John Stamers was born in Bermuda in 1802<br />
and by about 1825 was living on <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos<br />
<strong>Islands</strong>—at least on a part time basis. Stamers married<br />
Caroline Samuel Smith <strong>of</strong> Bermuda in 1830. They had five<br />
children—three survived early childhood. Those surviving<br />
were: Benjamin Henry, Copeland Place, and Susanna<br />
Deborah. Copeland John Stamers was appointed to <strong>the</strong><br />
Legislative Council <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> circa<br />
Copeland J. Stamers owned over 3,500 acres <strong>of</strong> land at Blue Hills on<br />
<strong>the</strong> island <strong>of</strong> Providence Caicos (Providenciales) as well as salt properties<br />
on Salt Cay. He also owned approximately 1,368 acres on East<br />
Caicos. He raised cattle on Providence Caicos and may have done so<br />
on his East Caicos holdings. To this day, a section <strong>of</strong> Providenciales<br />
is known as Blue Hills & Stamers Run.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2023</strong> 67
astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />
1862—hence <strong>the</strong> title “Honorable.” He died in Brooklyn,<br />
NY in 1866.<br />
An inheritance denied?<br />
It has been alleged that Copeland John Stamers did not<br />
actually have legal title to <strong>the</strong> 1,288 acres <strong>of</strong> land at<br />
Breezy Point, East Caicos. In 1807, Bermudians John and<br />
Thomas Ingham were <strong>the</strong> first to acquire <strong>the</strong> Breezy Point<br />
property by way <strong>of</strong> a separate land grant to each bro<strong>the</strong>r<br />
from <strong>the</strong> Governor <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Bahamas, Charles Cameron Esq.<br />
According to <strong>the</strong> original documents, <strong>the</strong>ir two land grants<br />
totaled approximately 1,368 acres. A proper survey later<br />
may have changed this figure to 1,288 acres. Thomas and<br />
John’s intention was to raise cattle on East Caicos. (Note:<br />
In 1766, <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> were placed under<br />
<strong>the</strong> jurisdiction <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Bahamian Government. In 1799<br />
<strong>the</strong>y were placed under <strong>the</strong> control <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> British Colonial<br />
Administration with <strong>the</strong> Bahamas maintaining control,<br />
but now <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> had an appointed representative in<br />
<strong>the</strong> Assembly. Bahamian control <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> ended in<br />
December 1848.)<br />
John Ingham’s Will has just surfaced from <strong>the</strong><br />
Bahamian Archives in Nassau and it is hoped that it and<br />
o<strong>the</strong>r archived documents will shed light on exactly how<br />
Copeland John Stamers ended up as <strong>the</strong> owner <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
Ingham’s land at Breezy Point. It has been alleged that<br />
fraud might have been involved because John Ingham had<br />
two children and at least one, his daughter Rose, survived<br />
him, but this is a subject requiring additional research.<br />
Hiram T. Jones was born on Grand Turk Island in 1834. He moved<br />
to Bangor, Maine about 1875 and by 1882 was in <strong>the</strong> business <strong>of</strong><br />
importing salt from <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. Salt was an important<br />
commodity in <strong>the</strong> New England states, as it was required for <strong>the</strong><br />
preservation <strong>of</strong> fish, mostly cod, which was <strong>the</strong>n sold throughout <strong>the</strong><br />
eastern United States.<br />
because Stubbs remained in <strong>the</strong> salt business at East<br />
Harbour, passing it on to his daughter Emilie Jane Stubbs<br />
following his death in 1913. She improved <strong>the</strong> Victoria<br />
Salina and remained in <strong>the</strong> salt business until she was<br />
forced to sell it to <strong>the</strong> Turks Island Salt Co. circa 1951.<br />
Emilie passed away in 1956. John Reynolds remained in<br />
<strong>the</strong> business <strong>of</strong> exporting salt.<br />
Reynolds sells salt works<br />
By 1882, Reynolds had decided to sell his salt properties<br />
and his “company” store at East Harbour to Alfred<br />
Stubbs (born 1847). Negotiations took more than a year<br />
but it was finally agreed that Reynolds would finance<br />
Stubbs’ purchase <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> properties. The agreement also<br />
stipulated that Reynolds would supply Stubbs’ store with<br />
merchandise and would act as <strong>the</strong> sole export agent for<br />
all <strong>the</strong> salt Stubbs produced less 20,000 bushels a year.<br />
A few years later, Reynolds accused Stubbs <strong>of</strong> selling<br />
salt to Hiram T. Jones and <strong>the</strong>reby not abiding by <strong>the</strong><br />
terms <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir agreement. Reynolds also accused Stubbs<br />
<strong>of</strong> falling behind in his payments.<br />
Stubbs, in turn, argued that Reynolds was manipulating<br />
his accounts and accused him <strong>of</strong> overloading vessels<br />
with his salt. A settlement must have been reached<br />
This promotional postcard is an indication that John N. Reynolds<br />
remained in <strong>the</strong> salt export businesse after selling his saltworks at<br />
East Harbour to Alfred Stubbs. In 1884, Reynolds mailed this postcard<br />
to <strong>the</strong> Commission Merchants, F.W. Nickerson & Co. <strong>of</strong> Boston,<br />
promoting <strong>the</strong> exceptional quality <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> salt ga<strong>the</strong>red at Salt Cay and<br />
East Harbour. Reynolds notes that he just loaded two vessels with<br />
salt from <strong>the</strong>se islands at prices below those <strong>of</strong> a shipment recently<br />
loaded at Grand Turk Island.<br />
East Caicos cattleman and guano exporter<br />
John Reynolds must have started raising cattle at Breezy<br />
Point shortly following his purchase <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> 1,288 acres<br />
and <strong>the</strong> 99-year lease in 1871 in order to comply with <strong>the</strong><br />
SAILROCK ARCHIVAL COLLECTION<br />
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astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />
terms <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> lease. At some point, possibly about 1882,<br />
Reynolds became aware that bat guano from <strong>the</strong> caves<br />
on <strong>the</strong> northwest side <strong>the</strong> island would be a pr<strong>of</strong>itable<br />
export commodity and before long he was exporting it to<br />
Jamaica and o<strong>the</strong>r islands where sugar cane was grown.<br />
The guano operation petered out after a few years,<br />
but <strong>the</strong> cattle operation was successful and eventually<br />
Reynolds had as many as 1,500 head <strong>of</strong> cattle on <strong>the</strong><br />
island. He sold beef to <strong>the</strong> inhabitants <strong>of</strong> Grand Turk<br />
and hides to Haiti. After Reynolds’ death, <strong>the</strong> cattle were<br />
hunted by local Islanders—possibly by Americans as<br />
well—to <strong>the</strong> extent that by 1939 <strong>the</strong>re were no cattle left<br />
on East Caicos.<br />
This was confirmed when a small group <strong>of</strong> Californians<br />
that included John Reynolds’ daughter, Grace Reynolds<br />
Lake, went to East Caicos in 1940 with <strong>the</strong> intent <strong>of</strong> forming<br />
a colony on <strong>the</strong> land Grace had inherited from her<br />
fa<strong>the</strong>r. They had been led to believe that <strong>the</strong>y would be<br />
able to supplement <strong>the</strong>ir diet with beef from wild cattle<br />
roaming <strong>the</strong> island. However, after three days <strong>of</strong> searching<br />
<strong>the</strong> island for cattle <strong>the</strong> “colonists” came up empty<br />
handed—<strong>the</strong>re were no cattle to be found.<br />
Sisal on East Caicos<br />
Following <strong>the</strong> death <strong>of</strong> John N. Reynolds on March 5,<br />
1890, <strong>the</strong> property he held in trust for his children on<br />
East Caicos was leased to a newly formed company that<br />
intended to grow and process sisal <strong>the</strong>re. The East Caicos<br />
Sisal Company was <strong>of</strong>ficially registered in 1891. It was<br />
managed by Frith & Murphy Co. They hired A. Lewis Jones<br />
as <strong>the</strong>ir manager as well as an engineer, several clerks<br />
and 300–400 workers. It’s possible Reynolds explored<br />
whe<strong>the</strong>r sisal would grow successfully on East Caicos<br />
prior to his death, but <strong>the</strong>re is no evidence <strong>of</strong> this.<br />
Buildings where <strong>the</strong> sisal was processed and barracks<br />
for <strong>the</strong> workers were built at Breezy Point and Jacksonville.<br />
In addition, a 14 mile long rail system was constructed so<br />
that donkeys pulling rail cars could move sisal from <strong>the</strong><br />
fields to Jacksonville where it would be processed and<br />
<strong>the</strong>n shipped.<br />
The Hon. Thomas Capper A.B., Jamaica’s Inspector <strong>of</strong><br />
Schools, observed during a brief stopover at Jacksonville<br />
in 1885, that <strong>the</strong> truck system was being employed <strong>the</strong>re<br />
and that laborers were being fired unless <strong>the</strong>y spent most<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir wages at <strong>the</strong> company’s store even though <strong>the</strong><br />
truck system was outlawed in 1881. (Note: Tokens bearing<br />
<strong>the</strong> name <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> East Caicos Sisal Co. have never been<br />
found.) By 1919, <strong>the</strong> superior qualities <strong>of</strong> manila hemp<br />
from <strong>the</strong> Philippines caused sisal prices to decline to such<br />
an extent that <strong>the</strong> East Caicos Sisal Co. was forced to<br />
cease operation.<br />
John Ney Reynolds’ death and legacy<br />
John Reynolds wrote and signed his Will on December<br />
28, 1889. In it he states that “being <strong>of</strong> sound mind, but<br />
advanced in years owing to <strong>the</strong> uncertainty <strong>of</strong> life deem<br />
it advisable to make this my last Will and Testament to<br />
whit . . .” In this Will, he leaves <strong>the</strong> 1,288 acres <strong>of</strong> land at<br />
Breezy Point to his wife Elizabeth and daughters Alice and<br />
Grace—each to receive a 1/3rd interest. He nominated his<br />
wife, Elizabeth, to be <strong>the</strong> sole Executor.<br />
On February 4, 1890, John Reynolds wrote an addendum<br />
to his last Will and Testament whereby he left <strong>the</strong><br />
remaining years <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> 99-year lease for land on East<br />
Caicos to his eight children. Here he names <strong>the</strong>m: Mary<br />
Reynolds; Norah (Leonore) Baker, (<strong>the</strong> wife <strong>of</strong> Dr. W.W.<br />
Baker); Eleanor Reynolds Frith, <strong>the</strong> wife <strong>of</strong> Daniel T. Frith;<br />
Alice Bridget Reynolds; John Ney Reynolds Jr.; Robert<br />
Reynolds; Henry Reynolds and Gracie Reynolds. In addi-<br />
Left: This image shows a building and sisal plants at <strong>the</strong> East Caicos<br />
Sisal Co., circa 1895.<br />
Above: This rail car was used for hauling sisal from <strong>the</strong> fields to<br />
Jacksonville for processing.<br />
TURKS & CAICOS NATIONAL MUSEUM COLLECTION<br />
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tion to <strong>the</strong> leased land on East Caicos, <strong>the</strong> addendum<br />
included <strong>the</strong> buildings and houses erected <strong>the</strong>reon and<br />
cattle and o<strong>the</strong>r animals <strong>the</strong>reupon as well as three boats.<br />
Little is known about Mary or Eleanor Reynolds<br />
though <strong>the</strong>y both probably moved to <strong>the</strong> Boston area in<br />
<strong>the</strong> 1880s. Robert moved to Boston in 1882 and John<br />
N. Jr. in 1884. He was followed by Henry in 1886. John<br />
Jr. and Henry worked for a steamship company. Leonore<br />
moved to <strong>the</strong> US in 1888 and married Dr. W. W.Baker—<br />
<strong>the</strong>y lived in Ohio.<br />
Grace became <strong>the</strong> sole owner <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> 1,288 acre parcel<br />
at Breezy Point following <strong>the</strong> death <strong>of</strong> her sister Alice in<br />
1909 and her mo<strong>the</strong>r Elizabeth in 1928.<br />
There is much more to <strong>the</strong> story <strong>of</strong> Grace Reynolds and<br />
her East Caicos inheritance. You can read about it online.<br />
See “Modern Crusoes” in <strong>the</strong> Winter 2020/2021 <strong>Times</strong><br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> (https://www.timespub.tc/2021/01/<br />
modern-crusoes-2/). Keep in mind that <strong>the</strong>re are some<br />
inaccuracies in <strong>the</strong> story as John Reynolds’ Will had not<br />
been found at <strong>the</strong> time it was written.<br />
The St. Thomas Registry <strong>of</strong> Deaths notes that John Ney Reynolds died<br />
on March 5, 1890.<br />
Just a few months following <strong>the</strong> death <strong>of</strong> John N.<br />
Reynolds on March 5, 1890, John’s wife Elizabeth and<br />
daughters Gracie and Alice moved to Boston to join and<br />
live with John N. Jr. and Henry.<br />
Afterwards<br />
On April 29, 1890, Elizabeth A. Reynolds, acting on her<br />
own behalf and on <strong>the</strong> behalf <strong>of</strong> her children, agreed to<br />
lease <strong>the</strong> <strong>the</strong> land at Breezy Point to Jeremiah Murphy<br />
for a period <strong>of</strong> 20 years toge<strong>the</strong>r with any houses, outhouses,<br />
buildings, etc. as well as <strong>the</strong> sloop O.K.. In <strong>the</strong><br />
terms <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> lease, Murphy was to pay <strong>the</strong> Reynolds family<br />
$2,500 upon execution <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> lease and an annual<br />
rent <strong>of</strong> $1,100/year payable in equal quarterly payments<br />
for <strong>the</strong> duration <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> lease. Murphy <strong>of</strong> Frith & Murphy<br />
established <strong>the</strong> East Caicos Sisal Co. on this land.<br />
In April 1890, Mary Reynolds, Robert Reynolds, and<br />
Henry Reynolds, all <strong>of</strong> Boston, Massachusetts, appointed<br />
John Ney Reynolds Jr., <strong>the</strong> oldest son <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> late John<br />
Ney Reynolds, to be <strong>the</strong>ir attorney to represent <strong>the</strong>m—“to<br />
act, demand, levy, require, recover and receive all <strong>of</strong> and<br />
from all and every person ... <strong>the</strong>ir share <strong>of</strong> money, debts,<br />
goods, wares, merchandise, owing <strong>the</strong>m” as a result <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong>ir fa<strong>the</strong>r’s death.<br />
An unfinished story<br />
It is not known what caused John and Bridget to move to<br />
<strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> or what <strong>the</strong>ir life was like in<br />
Ireland. Did <strong>the</strong>y have friends or relatives living <strong>the</strong>re? Did<br />
John arrive on <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> with <strong>the</strong> funds to buy salt properties<br />
or did he have investors, and if so, who were <strong>the</strong>y?<br />
Did John, his second wife Elizabeth, and <strong>the</strong>ir children<br />
live on South Caicos or move to Grand Turk following <strong>the</strong><br />
sale <strong>of</strong> John’s salt interests in 1883?<br />
The addendum to John’s Will gave <strong>the</strong> land leased<br />
from <strong>the</strong> government for 99 years to his eight children.<br />
In April 1890, <strong>the</strong>y leased <strong>the</strong>ir East Caicos holdings to<br />
Jeremiah Murphy (East Caicos Sisal Co.). But what happened<br />
following <strong>the</strong> demise <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> sisal company in<br />
1919? Was this leased property sold or given to Grace<br />
who in 1928 was <strong>the</strong> sole owner <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> 1,288 acre parcel<br />
at Breezy Point?<br />
Only time will tell. a<br />
The author wishes to thank <strong>the</strong> following for <strong>the</strong>ir invaluable<br />
assistance with this article: John Adams, former<br />
Bermuda Government archivist; Linda Abend and Toni<br />
Butz for <strong>the</strong>ir contribution <strong>of</strong> original source material<br />
from <strong>the</strong> Bermuda National Trust; Christian Buys, author<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> book Historic South Caicos, Turks and Caicos<br />
<strong>Islands</strong>; Dr. Donald Keith <strong>of</strong> Ships <strong>of</strong> Discovery; <strong>the</strong><br />
Sailrock Archival Collection; Margorie Sadler, author <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> revised edition <strong>of</strong> Turks <strong>Islands</strong> Landfall; Nigel Sadler<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Sands <strong>of</strong> Time Consultancy; Lisa Talbot, Director<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum; and Deborah<br />
Dodge for her help transcribing original documents and<br />
editing this story.<br />
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This 1965 slide shows an aerial view <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> old airstrip running near to St Thomas’s Church in Grand Turk. You can see <strong>the</strong> salt ponds in <strong>the</strong><br />
foreground.<br />
Remembering When:<br />
The Town Strip in Grand Turk.<br />
By Dr. Richard Grainger ~ Images Courtesy Turks & Caicos National Museum Photo Collection<br />
Most people will not know that <strong>the</strong>re were once two airstrips on Grand Turk. Many remember <strong>the</strong> American<br />
Air Force base and <strong>of</strong> course <strong>the</strong> present JAGS McCartney International Airport, but will ei<strong>the</strong>r have forgotten<br />
or had never known that <strong>the</strong>re was ano<strong>the</strong>r landing strip, known as Town Strip. Curiously, it did<br />
not seem to feature on contemporary maps <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> island.<br />
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There were two airlines serving <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> in <strong>the</strong><br />
early 1970s. They were affectionately named “Air Chaos”<br />
and “Chaos Airways.” Air Caicos were based in Grand<br />
Turk whilst Caicos Airways were based in South Caicos.<br />
The US Air Force base was used by Air Caicos for <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
Convair 444 flights from Nassau via Eleu<strong>the</strong>ra into Grand<br />
Turk. They also had <strong>the</strong>ir Piper Aztec planes based <strong>the</strong>re<br />
which served <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> as far out as “Blue Hills,” as<br />
Providenciales was commonly known <strong>the</strong>n. Air Caicos<br />
were able to use <strong>the</strong> US base as <strong>the</strong>y carried sufficient<br />
insurance whilst planes not carrying enough insurance<br />
had to use <strong>the</strong> airstrip in <strong>the</strong> centre <strong>of</strong> Cockburn Town.<br />
The Town Strip<br />
Town Strip was curious in a number <strong>of</strong> ways. Most runways<br />
have an area at each end to allow for undershooting<br />
or overshooting <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> landing area. Because <strong>of</strong> houses<br />
on <strong>the</strong> seaward end <strong>of</strong> Town Strip <strong>the</strong>re was no undershooting<br />
area. The overshoot was unusual, as <strong>the</strong> runway<br />
ended at <strong>the</strong> cemetery wall and <strong>the</strong> overshoot was at 90º<br />
to <strong>the</strong> runway and passed parallel to <strong>the</strong> wall.<br />
A degree <strong>of</strong> skill was required in order to land at Town<br />
Strip. The land surveyor’s house was directly under <strong>the</strong><br />
flight path, so planes went very close to his ro<strong>of</strong> in order<br />
to get down to <strong>the</strong> start <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> runway. Once <strong>the</strong> land surveyor<br />
was working on his ro<strong>of</strong> when a plane approached<br />
and came in so close he had to lie down flat on <strong>the</strong> ro<strong>of</strong>,<br />
as he felt in danger.<br />
The Town Strip was also unusual in that <strong>the</strong>re were<br />
no facilities apart from <strong>the</strong> runway itself. There was no<br />
air traffic control, so that pilots had to make a visual<br />
approach and take <strong>of</strong>f to ensure that <strong>the</strong> runway was<br />
clear. In addition, <strong>the</strong>re was no facility for refuelling. If an<br />
aircraft needed fuel it had to be brought to <strong>the</strong> airstrip or<br />
alternatively, <strong>the</strong> pilot would need to go with a can to <strong>the</strong><br />
local aviation fuel supplier. At a very simple level that did<br />
not appear to be even a windsock or fire extinguisher on<br />
site and <strong>the</strong>re were no facilities for passengers as <strong>the</strong>re<br />
was no terminal building.<br />
The Town Strip was not fenced so that <strong>the</strong>re was<br />
always a risk <strong>of</strong> feral donkeys walking across <strong>the</strong> runway.<br />
Donkeys were very common (and still are) as <strong>the</strong>y had<br />
been abandoned when <strong>the</strong> salt industry ceased to function<br />
and continued to breed. One instance occurred when<br />
Here is ano<strong>the</strong>r 1965 aerial view <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> old airstrip running near to St Thomas’s Church in Grand Turk. The runway ended at <strong>the</strong> cemetery<br />
wall and <strong>the</strong> overshoot was at 90º to <strong>the</strong> runway and passed parallel to <strong>the</strong> wall.<br />
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This 1963 slide shows a plane landing on <strong>the</strong> Grand Turk airstrip,<br />
with horses in <strong>the</strong> way!<br />
a plane was beginning to take <strong>of</strong>f as a donkey wandered<br />
onto <strong>the</strong> runway—fortunately <strong>the</strong> pilot had got enough<br />
lift so that he was able to pop over <strong>the</strong> donkey, touch<br />
down on <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r side, and continue his take <strong>of</strong>f run.<br />
Thankfully <strong>the</strong>re was not a lot <strong>of</strong> rain on Grand Turk<br />
as <strong>the</strong> runway had very poor drainage. There was one<br />
instance where a Beechcraft Baron was coming in to land<br />
following a heavy rain shower. As <strong>the</strong> plane was passing<br />
along <strong>the</strong> runway, <strong>the</strong> wheels hit a deep puddle with s<strong>of</strong>t<br />
mud at <strong>the</strong> bottom, which resulted in <strong>the</strong> plane going<br />
base over apex and was severely damaged. For a long<br />
time <strong>the</strong> damaged plane was at <strong>the</strong> side <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> runway as<br />
a warning <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> hazards <strong>of</strong> landing at Town Strip.<br />
There were a number <strong>of</strong> aeroplanes landing at Town<br />
Strip. There were DC-3 aircraft landing <strong>the</strong>re on a regular<br />
basis. Strangely, one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m still had <strong>the</strong> label<br />
Alaskan Airlines written on <strong>the</strong> fuselage and <strong>the</strong> wings<br />
still had <strong>the</strong>ir de-icing boots fitted. (These were rubber<br />
attachments to <strong>the</strong> front <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> wings which could be<br />
expanded when in <strong>the</strong> air to prevent ice collecting on<br />
<strong>the</strong> wings!) Most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> planes that came in were Caicos<br />
Airways Beechcraft Barons, although a number <strong>of</strong> private<br />
planes also called. One <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> small planes was from <strong>the</strong><br />
Evangelists <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Bible Baptist organisation. Their plane<br />
had an accident when <strong>the</strong>y ran out <strong>of</strong> fuel on <strong>the</strong> way<br />
towards Turks & Caicos when coming from <strong>the</strong> Bahamas.<br />
A number <strong>of</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r small planes were calling mainly as a<br />
stopover from places like <strong>the</strong> Dominican Republic and<br />
This slide is an aerial view <strong>of</strong> Grand Turk in July 1964. It shows <strong>the</strong> salt ponds and South Base, with <strong>the</strong> airfield behind <strong>the</strong> dock and to <strong>the</strong><br />
side <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> road.<br />
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Colombia. At <strong>the</strong> time, South Caicos was a major hub for<br />
bringing in illegal drugs on <strong>the</strong>ir way to <strong>the</strong> United States.<br />
We may only speculate that some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> traffic actually<br />
went through Grand Turk ra<strong>the</strong>r than South Caicos.<br />
The DC-3 went on visits to <strong>the</strong> Dominican Republic to<br />
bring back vegetables and o<strong>the</strong>r consumables that were<br />
difficult to get in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. There were<br />
occasionally charters for visits to Haiti with calls at <strong>the</strong><br />
Citadelle Laferrière, a large, early 19th-century fortress<br />
situated approximately 17 miles south <strong>of</strong> Cap-Haïtien.<br />
It was commissioned by Emperor Henri Christophe, and<br />
built by tens <strong>of</strong> thousands <strong>of</strong> former slaves.<br />
My son, Andrew, was very young at <strong>the</strong> time but loved<br />
to watch <strong>the</strong> planes landing. I was driving up to <strong>the</strong> hospital<br />
late one afternoon with Andrew when we saw a bright<br />
light out to <strong>the</strong> west. I thought it was <strong>the</strong> light <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
plane coming in to land so parked near <strong>the</strong> government<br />
<strong>of</strong>fices to await <strong>the</strong> plane’s arrival. The light started to<br />
get larger but did not come any closer and after a time,<br />
a perfectly round cloud started to spread out from <strong>the</strong><br />
light. I had not experienced this sort <strong>of</strong> sight before and<br />
found it ra<strong>the</strong>r eerie and almost threatening. After a time<br />
I carried on up to <strong>the</strong> hospital and told <strong>the</strong> nurses what<br />
I had seen. They were quite relaxed and explained that<br />
it was just a second stage rocket from Cape Canaveral,<br />
igniting and heading <strong>of</strong>f into outer space.<br />
brakes were released, and <strong>the</strong> plane, hopefully, ga<strong>the</strong>red<br />
enough speed to take <strong>of</strong>f.<br />
There was a relaxed view to flying in Turks & Caicos.<br />
Once in December, a Christmas tree was brought into <strong>the</strong><br />
cabin and threaded down between a full plane <strong>of</strong> seated<br />
passengers. I experienced an unusual landing at South<br />
Caicos where one plane was landing from one end <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
runway whilst ano<strong>the</strong>r <strong>the</strong> plane was coming in from <strong>the</strong><br />
o<strong>the</strong>r end. Presumably <strong>the</strong> pilots were communicating to<br />
say which side <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> runway <strong>the</strong>y were going to take as<br />
<strong>the</strong>y passed in <strong>the</strong> middle!<br />
There was a rumour that Ultramar, an oil company,<br />
was going to develop an oil refuelling station on <strong>the</strong><br />
nor<strong>the</strong>rn end <strong>of</strong> East Caicos. The pilot who I was discussing<br />
this with said, “Oh let’s go and have a look at <strong>the</strong> site.”<br />
People <strong>of</strong> Town Strip<br />
The pilots who flew into Town Strip were an interesting<br />
group (and all male to my knowledge). Most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
pilots <strong>of</strong> single engine planes just had private pilot’s<br />
licences and navigated from island to island around <strong>the</strong><br />
Caribbean. The pr<strong>of</strong>essional pilots were a very disparate<br />
group. There were pilots flying around <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos<br />
<strong>Islands</strong> who were on long term contracts. O<strong>the</strong>r pilots<br />
were only <strong>the</strong>re for a very short period <strong>of</strong> time between<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir main jobs, for example, as crop sprayers.<br />
Once a number <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m left <strong>the</strong> island at short notice<br />
to go to West Africa. The Biafran War had just finished but<br />
<strong>the</strong>re was still a need for pilots. One pilot explained one<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> tricks for getting a DC-3 <strong>of</strong>f a short runway. The<br />
plane was manually moved as far back down <strong>the</strong> runway<br />
as possible. Then a number <strong>of</strong> men sat on at <strong>the</strong> tail,<br />
<strong>the</strong> brakes were applied, <strong>the</strong> engines were run up to full<br />
speed, and <strong>the</strong> propeller’s pitch adjusted to give maximum<br />
power. At a signal <strong>the</strong> men leapt <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> tail, <strong>the</strong><br />
This is a 1979 slide <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Admiral Arm’s Inn, South Caicos, a base and<br />
home for many pilots.<br />
Although <strong>the</strong> flight was to go from Grand Turk straight<br />
to Blue Hills, he diverted to see <strong>the</strong> proposed site for <strong>the</strong><br />
development.<br />
Some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> pilots would have not been out <strong>of</strong><br />
place as characters in an Ernest Hemingway novel. The<br />
Admiral’s Arms hotel in South Caicos was a base and<br />
home for many and <strong>the</strong> idea <strong>of</strong> limited flying hours, rest<br />
periods, and no alcohol around <strong>the</strong> time <strong>of</strong> flying were<br />
alien concepts at <strong>the</strong> time. It was not unusual for pilots<br />
to fly <strong>the</strong>ir hangovers around <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>!<br />
Many histories do not capture <strong>the</strong> culture and atmosphere<br />
<strong>of</strong> a community by ignoring <strong>the</strong> everyday life and<br />
times as <strong>the</strong>y existed. Town Strip and its users do deserve<br />
to be remembered as <strong>the</strong>y were important for <strong>the</strong> wellbeing<br />
<strong>of</strong> Grand Turk and epitomised <strong>the</strong> lifestyle and<br />
traditions <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> past. a<br />
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Museum Matters<br />
Children’s club<br />
The Museum had a second Kid’s Painting event in April.<br />
The kids painted Petey, my potcake. Emerging from <strong>the</strong><br />
event were some budding artists!<br />
Local artist Aysha is hosting a series <strong>of</strong> eight afterschool<br />
art classes at <strong>the</strong> Museum. The children will<br />
learn to draw, paint, and shade. After <strong>the</strong> last class, <strong>the</strong><br />
Museum will be hosting a Beach Fun Day. For more<br />
information, email info@tcmuseum.org. a<br />
Grub, grill, and good times<br />
Mark your calendar for <strong>the</strong> annual Grub, Grill, and<br />
Good <strong>Times</strong> event on Saturday, July 22 at <strong>the</strong> Grand<br />
Turk Museum location. This event highlights local cuisine<br />
and music with local vendors selling your island<br />
favorites and live music with V6 Band and Zeus. A raffle<br />
is also held with prizes from many local restaurants,<br />
watersports operators, cash prizes, and more. a<br />
Grand Turk campus<br />
• The Museum continues to be <strong>the</strong> premiere stop on<br />
land tours <strong>of</strong>fered through <strong>the</strong> cruise ships. Our gift<br />
shop is <strong>of</strong>ten complimented as <strong>the</strong> best on <strong>the</strong> island. If<br />
you are visiting Grand Turk, be sure to stop in and see<br />
our various new products, T-shirts, books, and locally<br />
made handicrafts.<br />
• The on-island guests also continue to visit <strong>the</strong><br />
Museum and gift shop. We appreciate <strong>the</strong> support from<br />
<strong>the</strong> hotels and vacation rentals. a<br />
Current days & hours <strong>of</strong> operation:<br />
Grand Turk (Front Street): Hours vary daily, but in general<br />
open on all cruise ship days 9 AM to 1 PM. When a<br />
ship arrives on or after 11 AM, we will open one hour<br />
after arrival for three hours.<br />
Providenciales (The Village at Grace Bay): Open<br />
Tuesday and Thursday, 10 AM to 2 PM.<br />
Both locations include interesting exhibits and artifacts<br />
related to <strong>the</strong> history and culture <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />
Visit our gift shops for souvenirs, history books, and<br />
locally made products such as baskets, jewelry, salt<br />
products, and more. Days and times <strong>of</strong> operation are<br />
subject to change so please check our website or email<br />
us for updated information:<br />
www.tcmuseum.org• info@tcmuseum.org<br />
Story & Photos By Museum Manager Lisa Talbot<br />
Providenciales campus<br />
• New plant identification cards are being ordered for<br />
<strong>the</strong> Heritage House Garden.<br />
• We are always looking for more volunteers so we can<br />
expand our opening hours at this location. Please contact<br />
us if you are interested in donating a day or two <strong>of</strong><br />
your time each month.<br />
• Condominiums, hotels, and a shopping area are currently<br />
being planned for <strong>the</strong> Grace Bay Village. As this<br />
area continues to develop, <strong>the</strong> Museum will be in a prime<br />
location to get additional exposure and support. a<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2023</strong> 75
about <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong><br />
Map provided courtesy Wavey Line Publishing. Their navigation charts and decorative and historic maps <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>, The<br />
Bahamas and Hispaniola are available in shops throughout <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>. Visit www.amnautical.com.<br />
Where we are<br />
The Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> lie some 575 miles sou<strong>the</strong>ast<br />
<strong>of</strong> Miami — approximately 1 1/2 hours flying time —<br />
with The Bahamas about 30 miles to <strong>the</strong> northwest and<br />
<strong>the</strong> Dominican Republic some 100 miles to <strong>the</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>ast.<br />
The country consists <strong>of</strong> two island groups separated<br />
by <strong>the</strong> 22-mile wide Columbus Passage. To <strong>the</strong> west are<br />
<strong>the</strong> Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>: West Caicos, Providenciales, North<br />
Caicos, Middle Caicos, East Caicos and South Caicos. To<br />
<strong>the</strong> east are <strong>the</strong> Turks <strong>Islands</strong>: Grand Turk and Salt Cay.<br />
The Turks & Caicos total 166 square miles <strong>of</strong> land<br />
area on eight islands and 40 small cays. The country’s<br />
population is approximately 43,000.<br />
Getting here<br />
There are international airports on Grand Turk,<br />
Providenciales, and South Caicos, with domestic airports<br />
on all <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> islands except East Caicos.<br />
As <strong>of</strong> April 1, <strong>2023</strong>, all COVID-19 related travel<br />
restrictions have been removed for travel to <strong>the</strong> Turks &<br />
Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. There is no vaccine, testing, or insurance<br />
requirement. On August 12, 2022, <strong>the</strong> last day <strong>of</strong> statistics,<br />
32,338 people were vaccinated in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos<br />
against COVID-19 (at least one dose). This was approximately<br />
73% <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> total population. For more information<br />
and details, visit www.visittci.com.<br />
Language<br />
English.<br />
76 www.timespub.tc
Time zone<br />
Eastern Standard Time (EST)/Daylight Savings Time<br />
observed.<br />
Currency<br />
The United States dollar. The Treasury also issues a Turks<br />
& Caicos crown and quarter. Travellers cheques in U.S.<br />
dollars are widely accepted and o<strong>the</strong>r currency can be<br />
changed at local banks. American Express, VISA and<br />
MasterCard are welcomed at many locations.<br />
Climate<br />
The average year-round temperature is 83ºF (28ºC). The<br />
hottest months are September and October, when <strong>the</strong><br />
temperature can reach 90 to 95ºF (33 to 35ºC). However,<br />
<strong>the</strong> consistent easterly trade winds temper <strong>the</strong> heat and<br />
keep life comfortable.<br />
Casual resort and leisure wear is accepted attire for<br />
daytime; light sweaters or jackets may be necessary on<br />
some breezy evenings. It’s wise to wear protective clothing<br />
and a sunhat and use waterpro<strong>of</strong> sunscreen when out<br />
in <strong>the</strong> tropical sun.<br />
Entry requirements<br />
Passport. A valid onward or return ticket is also required.<br />
Customs formalities<br />
Visitors may bring in duty free for <strong>the</strong>ir own use one carton<br />
<strong>of</strong> cigarettes or cigars, one bottle <strong>of</strong> liquor or wine,<br />
and some perfume. The importation <strong>of</strong> all firearms including<br />
those charged with compressed air without prior<br />
approval in writing from <strong>the</strong> Commissioner <strong>of</strong> Police is<br />
strictly forbidden. Spear guns, Hawaiian slings, controlled<br />
drugs and pornography are also illegal.<br />
Returning residents may bring in $400 worth <strong>of</strong><br />
merchandise per person duty free. A duty <strong>of</strong> 10% to<br />
60% is charged on most imported goods along with a<br />
7% customs processing fee and forms a major source <strong>of</strong><br />
government revenue.<br />
Transportation<br />
A valid driver’s license from home is suitable when renting<br />
vehicles. A government tax <strong>of</strong> 12% is levied on all rental<br />
contracts. (Insurance is extra.) Driving is on <strong>the</strong> left-hand<br />
side <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> road, with traffic flow controlled by roundabouts<br />
at major junctions. Taxis and community cabs are<br />
abundant throughout <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> and many resorts <strong>of</strong>fer<br />
shuttle service between popular visitor areas. Scooter,<br />
motorcycle and bicycle rentals are also available.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2023</strong> 77
Telecommunications<br />
FLOW Ltd. provides land lines and superfast broadband<br />
Internet service. Mobile service is on a LTE 4G network,<br />
including pre- and post-paid cellular phones. Most resorts<br />
and some stores and restaurants <strong>of</strong>fer wireless Internet<br />
connections. Digicel operates mobile networks, with<br />
a full suite <strong>of</strong> LTE 4G service. FLOW is <strong>the</strong> local carrier<br />
for CDMA roaming on US networks such as Verizon and<br />
Sprint. North American visitors with GSM cellular handsets<br />
and wireless accounts with AT&T or Cingular can<br />
arrange international roaming.<br />
Electricity<br />
FortisTCI supplies electricity at a frequency <strong>of</strong> 60HZ,<br />
and ei<strong>the</strong>r single phase or three phase at one <strong>of</strong> three<br />
standard voltages for residential or commercial service.<br />
FortisTCI continues to invest in a robust and resilient grid<br />
to ensure <strong>the</strong> highest level <strong>of</strong> reliability to customers. The<br />
company is integrating renewable energy into its grid and<br />
provides options for customers to participate in two solar<br />
energy programs.<br />
Departure tax<br />
US $60. It is typically included in your airline ticket cost.<br />
Courier service<br />
Delivery service is provided by FedEx, with <strong>of</strong>fices on<br />
Providenciales and Grand Turk, and DHL. UPS service is<br />
limited to incoming delivery.<br />
Postal service<br />
The Post Office and Philatelic Bureau in Providenciales are<br />
located downtown on Airport Road. In Grand Turk, <strong>the</strong><br />
Post Office and Philatelic Bureau are on Church Folly. The<br />
<strong>Islands</strong> are known for <strong>the</strong>ir colorful stamp issues.<br />
Media<br />
Multi-channel satellite television is received from <strong>the</strong> U.S.<br />
and Canada and transmitted via cable or over <strong>the</strong> air.<br />
Local station WIV-TV broadcasts on Channel 4 and Island<br />
EyeTV on Channel 5. There are also a number <strong>of</strong> local<br />
radio stations, magazines and newspapers.<br />
Medical services<br />
There are no endemic tropical diseases in TCI. There are<br />
large, modern hospitals on Grand Turk and Providenciales.<br />
Both hospitals <strong>of</strong>fer a full range <strong>of</strong> services including:<br />
24/7 emergency room, operating <strong>the</strong>aters, diagnostic<br />
78 www.timespub.tc
imaging, maternity suites, dialysis suites, blood bank,<br />
physio<strong>the</strong>rapy and dentistry.<br />
In addition, several general practitioners operate in<br />
<strong>the</strong> country, and <strong>the</strong>re is a recompression chamber, along<br />
with a number <strong>of</strong> private pharmacies.<br />
Immigration<br />
A resident’s permit is required to live in <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>. A<br />
work permit and business license are also required to<br />
work and/or establish a business. These are generally<br />
granted to those <strong>of</strong>fering skills, experience and qualifications<br />
not widely available on <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>. Priority is given<br />
to enterprises that will provide employment and training<br />
for Turks & Caicos Islanders.<br />
Government/Legal system<br />
TCI is a British Crown colony. There is a Queen-appointed<br />
Governor. The post is currently held by Acting Governor<br />
HE Anya Williams. She presides over an executive council<br />
formed by <strong>the</strong> elected local government. Hon. Charles<br />
Washington Misick is <strong>the</strong> country’s premier, leading<br />
a majority Progressive National Party (PNP) House <strong>of</strong><br />
Assembly.<br />
The legal system is based upon English Common<br />
Law and administered by a resident Chief Justice, Chief<br />
Magistrate,and Deputy Magistrates. Judges <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Court<br />
<strong>of</strong> Appeal visit <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> twice a year and <strong>the</strong>re is a final<br />
Right <strong>of</strong> Appeal to Her Majesty’s Privy Council in London.<br />
Taxes<br />
There are currently no direct taxes on ei<strong>the</strong>r income<br />
or capital for individuals or companies. There are no<br />
exchange controls. Indirect taxation comprises customs<br />
duties and fees, stamp duty, taxes on accommodations,<br />
restaurants, vehicle rentals, o<strong>the</strong>r services and gasoline,<br />
as well as business license fees and departure taxes.<br />
Economy<br />
Historically, TCI’s economy relied on <strong>the</strong> export <strong>of</strong> salt.<br />
Currently, tourism, <strong>the</strong> <strong>of</strong>fshore finance industry and fishing<br />
generate <strong>the</strong> most private sector income. The <strong>Islands</strong>’<br />
main exports are lobster and conch. Practically all consumer<br />
goods and foodstuffs are imported.<br />
The Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> are recognised as an<br />
important <strong>of</strong>fshore financial centre, <strong>of</strong>fering services<br />
such as company formation, <strong>of</strong>fshore insurance, banking,<br />
trusts, limited partnerships and limited life companies.<br />
The Financial Services Commission regulates <strong>the</strong> industry<br />
and spearheads <strong>the</strong> development <strong>of</strong> <strong>of</strong>fshore legislation.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2023</strong> 79
People<br />
Citizens <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> are termed<br />
“Belongers” and are primarily descendants <strong>of</strong> African<br />
slaves who were brought to <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> to work in <strong>the</strong><br />
salt ponds and cotton plantations. The country’s large<br />
expatriate population includes Canadians, Americans,<br />
Brits and Europeans, along with Haitians, Jamaicans,<br />
Dominicans, Bahamians, Indians and Filipinos.<br />
Churches<br />
Churches are <strong>the</strong> center <strong>of</strong> community life and <strong>the</strong>re<br />
are many faiths represented in <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> including:<br />
Adventist, Anglican, Assembly <strong>of</strong> God, Baha’i, Baptist,<br />
Catholic, Church <strong>of</strong> God, Episcopal, Jehovah’s Witnesses,<br />
Methodist and Pentecostal. Visitors are always welcome.<br />
Pets<br />
Incoming pets must have an import permit, veterinary<br />
health certificate, vaccination certificate and lab test<br />
results submitted at port <strong>of</strong> entry to obtain clearance<br />
from <strong>the</strong> TCI Department <strong>of</strong> Agriculture.<br />
National symbols<br />
The National Bird is <strong>the</strong> Brown pelican (Pelecanus occidentalis).<br />
The National Plant is Island hea<strong>the</strong>r (Limonium<br />
bahamense) found nowhere else in <strong>the</strong> world. The<br />
National Tree is <strong>the</strong> Caribbean pine (Pinus caribaea var.<br />
bahamensis). The National Costume consists <strong>of</strong> white cotton<br />
dresses tied at <strong>the</strong> waist for women and simple shirts<br />
and loose pants for men, with straw hats. Colors representing<br />
<strong>the</strong> various islands are displayed on <strong>the</strong> sleeves,<br />
sashes and hat bands. The National Song is “This Land<br />
<strong>of</strong> Ours” by <strong>the</strong> late Rev. E.C. Howell. Peas and Hominy<br />
(Grits) with Dry Conch is revered as symbolic island fare.<br />
Going green<br />
TCI Waste Disposal Services currently <strong>of</strong>fers recycling<br />
services through weekly collection <strong>of</strong> recyclable aluminum,<br />
glass and plastic. Single-use plastic bags have been<br />
banned country-wide as <strong>of</strong> May 1, 2019. There is also a<br />
ban on importation <strong>of</strong> plastic straws and some polystyrene<br />
products, including cups and plates.<br />
Recreation<br />
Sporting activities are centered around <strong>the</strong> water. Visitors<br />
can choose from deep-sea, reef or bonefishing, sailing,<br />
glass-bottom boat and semi-sub excursions, windsurfing,<br />
waterskiing, parasailing, sea kayaking, snorkelling, scuba<br />
diving, snuba, kiteboarding, stand up paddleboarding,<br />
mermaid encounters and beachcombing. Pristine reefs,<br />
abundant marine life and excellent visibility make TCI<br />
a world-class diving destination. Whale and dolphin<br />
encounters are possible, especially during <strong>the</strong> winter/<br />
spring months.<br />
Tennis and golf—<strong>the</strong>re is an 18 hole championship<br />
course on Providenciales—are also popular.<br />
The <strong>Islands</strong> are an ecotourist’s paradise. Visitors can<br />
enjoy unspoilt wilderness and native flora and fauna in<br />
33 national parks, nature reserves, sanctuaries and areas<br />
<strong>of</strong> historical interest. The National Trust provides trail<br />
guides to several hiking trails, as well as guided tours <strong>of</strong><br />
major historical sites. Birdwatching is superb, and <strong>the</strong>re<br />
is a guided trail on Grand Turk.<br />
There is an excellent national museum on Grand<br />
Turk, with an auxillary branch on Providenciales that<br />
includes <strong>the</strong> Caicos Heritage House. A scheduled ferry<br />
and a selection <strong>of</strong> tour operators make it easy to take day<br />
trips to <strong>the</strong> outer islands.<br />
80 www.timespub.tc
O<strong>the</strong>r land-based activities include bicycling, horseback<br />
riding and football (soccer). Personal trainers are available<br />
to motivate you, working out <strong>of</strong> several fitness centres.<br />
You will also find a variety <strong>of</strong> spa and body treatment<br />
services.<br />
Nightlife includes local bands playing island music<br />
at bars and restaurants and some nightclubs. There are<br />
two casinos on Providenciales, along with many electronic<br />
gaming parlours. Stargazing is extraordinary!<br />
Shoppers will find paintings, T-shirts, sports and<br />
beachwear and locally made handicrafts, including straw<br />
work, conch crafts and beach jewellery. Duty free outlets<br />
sell liquor, jewellery, watches, perfume, lea<strong>the</strong>r goods,<br />
crystal, china, cameras, electronics, brand-name clothing<br />
and accessories, along with Cuban cigars. a<br />
subscription form<br />
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<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2023</strong> 81
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WE ARE LEADING THE WAY TO<br />
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Our executive team: (L-R) Vice President <strong>of</strong> Corporate Services and CFO Aisha Laporte; Vice President<br />
<strong>of</strong> Grand Turk and Sister Island Operations Allan Robinson; President and CEO Ruth Forbes; Senior Vice<br />
President <strong>of</strong> Operations Devon Cox; Vice President <strong>of</strong> Engineering and Energy Production and Delivery<br />
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In a rapidly evolving electricity sector, energy leaders <strong>of</strong> today are<br />
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