GG_N52_IT

PAGES 119-130 

OUR SUMMER 

SELECTIONS: 

BULGARIA - ITALY - PROVENCE - 

SOUTH AFRICA - SPAIN 

I CAMPI 

“EVERY WINE WANTS ITS 

LAND”: THE FOUNDATION 

STONE OF THE 

COMPANY’S VISION 

SUMMER 2023 

L 19045 - 52 - F: 7,95 € - RD 

Young Verona winemaker Flavio Prà 

who manages I Campi

Enter your wines now: en-vigneron.gilbertgaillard.com

CONTENTS 

COLUMNS / REPORTS 

10 

36 

7 

News 

10 

Spots 

Provence, its 

outstanding wines and 

must-visit locations 

26 

Appellation 

Bourgogne village, 

terroir with an 

affordable price tag 

36 

Export 

Spanish rosés excel in 

export markets 

45 

Discovery 

Bulgaria: A new chapter 

for wine 

60 

Appellation 

Soave : where tradition 

and biodiversity are 

rising to the challenges 

of the future 

70 

Varietal 

South Africa celebrates 

its success with 

Sauvignon blanc 

80 

Appellation 

Appellation Lalandede-Pomerol, 

Libourne’s 

well-guarded secret 

88 

Trend 

The French beer scene 

sees a profusion of new 

brands and styles 

102 

Economy 

Chile, the world for 

a market 

110 

Focus 

StraItalian Winemakers, 

quintessential Italy with 

a difference 

116 

Stars & wine 

John and Olivia: great 

minds drink alike 

118 

Contact details 

119 

Summer selections 2023 

Bulgaria - Italy - Provence - 

South Africa - Spain 

55 

Nursery 

From vine roots to wine 

glasses! 

96 

Focus 

Spain: Bodegas 

Criadores de Rioja, 

the art of balance 

80 

88 

Gilbert & Gaillard next issue 

Autumn 2023 

COVER: COURTESY OF THE ESTATES 

SUMMER 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 

3

EDITORIAL 

FRANÇOIS GILBERT - EDITORIAL DIRECTOR 

THE TIMELESS CHARM OF SOAVE 

The first thing that strikes you about Soave – even 

before the quality of the wine – is its amazing landscape 

of rolling hills studded with hidden, extinct craters 

and volcanic soils interspersed with pockets of limestone, 

alluvium, sand and basalt. Virtually every hill within the 

appellation boasts its own unique character. The type of 

soil also plays a pivotal role in the aromatic profile of the 

wines. Those grown on volcanic soils tend to recall citrus 

fruits, honey, peach and melon with a more saline touch, 

whilst those stemming from limestone deposits are more 

low-key but gain greater finesse. 

Another significant factor is the region’s primary grape 

variety, Garganega. It may not stand out for its intensity, 

but it is evidently suited to the region and imbues 

the wines with excellent persistence and a longevity 

that ensures the finest examples of Soave will keep for 

over ten years. It is a late-ripening grape variety and 

offers up good acidity that lends excellent balance to the 

wine. It can be paired with Trebbiano di Soave, and also 

Chardonnay. 

A second appellation, Soave Classico, illustrates the 

extraordinary distinctiveness of the volcanic area 

located between Soave and Monteforte d’Alpone. It 

produces more velvety wines with delicate scents of 

almond and lemon. And lastly, a few years ago, Soave 

Superiore DOCG was born. It is matured for at least 

five months, sometimes spends time in oak and has the 

ability to turn up the volume on its delicious tropical 

fruit aromas, but also its minerality, and to display both 

roundness and intensity. 

This variety has fully established Soave’s pedigree, crystallised 

by the classic parameters found in all the great 

wines of the world – terroir, climate and grape varieties. 

4 SUMMER 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE


PHILIPPE GAILLARD - EDITORIAL DIRECTOR 

SOUTH AFRICA AND ITS SAUVIGNON BLANC ERA 

Sauvignon blanc has long appealed to many wine 

regions around the world, from the Loire Valley to 

Bordeaux, New Zealand and Italy via Chile. It has also 

gained traction in South Africa and birthed extremely high 

quality wines in vineyards virtually across the Cape, both 

in the Northern Cape and in every corner of the Western 

Cape, in Robertson, Stellenbosch and Breedekloof. From 

here, it gravitates towards the coast and the cool slopes 

of the undulating valleys (Cape Town and the Cape South 

Coast), then climbs in altitude in the continental Cederberg, 

where it foils the hazards of the heat and drought, 

and the dangers of the wind. This myriad of vineyard sites, 

elevations and exposures elicits multiple personas from 

Sauvignon. 

The varietal has been grown in South Africa since 1880, at 

Groot Constantia, and has successfully continued to play 

a significant part in the wine industry with 9,987 hectares 

under vine. It is the country’s second most widely planted 

grape variety. A trade association that focuses on showcasing 

and promoting the varietal – Sauvignon Blanc 

South Africa – was established at the turn of the 2000s. 

Its primary mission is to support the local wine industry, 

and it also organises the annual FNB Sauvignon Blanc Top 

10 annual competition to award innovation and excellence. 

The event does not just establish a hierarchy – the ten best 

wines are analysed at length and the information is shared 

through technical seminars and workshops as part of an 

outreach approach promoted by the association. The aim 

is to enable all its members to benefit from all types of 

information that can help them to move forward. Read 

our fascinating report from within the country on page 70 

to find out everything you need to know about ‘Sauvignon 

mania’ in the Western Cape. 


5


SYLVAIN PATARD - EDITOR IN CHIEF 

AN IMMERSION OF THE SENSES IN PROVENCE 

The vineyards of Provence extend over 200 kilometres, 

through the departments of Var, Bouches-du-Rhône 

and part of Alpes-Maritimes. Basking in virtually uninterrupted 

sunshine, the scenery is breathtaking and setting 

foot in the vineyards alone is enough to create a true 

holiday feel. The region’s remarkable sites include Mount 

Saint-Victoire and the Sainte-Baume and Maures mountain 

ranges, along with the volcanic slopes of the Estérel. 

Then there’s the hot, dry and sunny Mediterranean climate, 

lavishing some 2,800 hours of sunshine on the vineyards 

every year as they are lulled by the gentle breezes which are 

another feature of the region’s climate. 

Here, wine tourism becomes a way of life such is the 

intensity with which it elicits the senses, combining a 

feast not only for your eyes, but also for your palate and 

your nose, ultimately creating a sense of overwhelming 

fulfilment. That’s because Provence is home to some of 

the most beautiful vineyard landscapes in the world, offering 

endless possibilities for discovery – tastings, vineyard 

walks, winery visits, dining experiences, accommodation 

amongst the vineyards, art exhibitions, spas, yoga, cinema 

and concerts. 

So, take some time out to discover it from the inside. Soak 

up all these incredible perfumes that accompany you on 

your journey. Learn to live with your senses ‘wide open’ so 

that you can fully benefit from this bountiful land which 

will inundate you with flavours, colours and light. The 

wines will taste even better because they are at one with 

their environment, in total harmony. This is the kind of 

real life sensory experience that we rarely get the chance 

to indulge in! 


NEWS 

CRUS ARTISANS DU MÉDOC: 

33 PROPERTIES SELECTED FOR THE CLASSIFICATION 

Qualisud, an independent inspection and certification body, revealed the 2023 classification on May 12. 

For these authentic, family-run properties, it offers an endorsement of quality and craftsmanship. 

The Crus Artisans will be welcoming 6 new, dynamic personalities this year (5 in the 

Médoc appellation and 1 in the Haut-Médoc appellation) who will help extend the 

reach of the new classification and its shared values – irreproachable quality of the wines 

and accessibility. The 2018 classification featured 36 chateaux – the slight drop this year 

is due to producers retiring. 

What is a Cru Artisan? 

Based on a decree dated 21 October 2022, the classification takes places every 5 years. 

Specifications include a visit to the property and a blind tasting of several vintages by 

a panel of professionals – shippers, brokers, winemakers and viticulture experts. To be 

eligible for Cru Artisan status, the property must be independent, small or medium in 

size (approximately 10 hectares) with production of up to 100,000 bottles a year, and not 

belong to any co-operative wineries. The artisan winegrower, who can work alone or with 

employees, must handle the entire supply chain with passion and 

determination, from work in the vineyards to marketing the wines. 

View the full classification on our website: 

https://www.gilbertgaillard.com/en 

CHÂTEAU D’OSMOND, IN THE HAUT-MÉDOC 

APPELLATION AREA IS ONE OF THE BLUE CHIP 

PROPERTIES IN THE CLASSIFICATION 


7

NEWS 

TOURAINE-CHENONCEAUX: 

€11,160 COLLECTED FOR ‘MAGIE À L’HÔPITAL’ 

On April 28, the winegrowers of AOC Touraine Chenonceaux and Château de Chenonceau held a charity evening in the Orangery 

to collect donations for the ‘Magie à l’hôpital’ association. The money will be used to help make children’s dreams come true. 

The evening began with an auction curated by 

Chloë Collin, France’s youngest auctioneer – 

five lots of six bottles of Touraine Chenonceaux, 

each representing a wall-sealed collection*, were 

offered for sale. This is the first auction held by 

the appellation since the wines were first sealed 

in a brick wall in 2014. 

The evening then continued with a food and 

wine pairing dinner prepared by the association 

of top chefs, ‘La Sauce’, whose members 

are Olivier Arlot, Didier Edon, Didier Frébout, 

Frédéric Arnault, Henri Leclerc, Aurélien 

Faugère, Grégory Colas, Grégory Heyndrickx 

and Alain Couturier. 

Orchestrating the event was Yoann Grégory, 

MOF maître d’hôtel 2022, with help from the 

Loire Valley sommelier association. The Selles 

sur Cher producers’ organisation provided 

the cheese which paved the way for a creative 

pairing with white Touraine-Chenonceaux 

wine. Over fifteen winegrowers, men and 

women, took part and engaged with guests, 

providing a genuine opportunity for everyone 

to share some great moments. 

Photo: Cyril Ananiguian 

Syndicat Touraine Chenonceaux : Céline Rast - contact@vintourainechenonceaux.fr 

*Every year, as a nod to the Château des Dames, a 100% female panel tastes Touraine Chenonceaux wines and chooses its ‘favourite’ white 

and red. Three bottles of each colour are signed by the patron of the event and then sealed in a wall of the historic Dômes du Château cellar. 

ERIC FROT AND CHLOË COLLIN 

PRESENT THE SYMBOLIC CHEQUE 

FOR THE SIZEABLE FUNDS 

CITÉS DES CLIMATS DE BOURGOGNE: LET THE EVENTS BEGIN! 

Following the opening of the Cités in Mâcon (May 3) and Chablis (17 May), then Beaune (17 June), 

the time has come for the Cités des Climats et vins de Bourgogne to unveil the programme of events scheduled for this summer. 

The first season promises to offer a robust line-up of varied events, as evidenced by the following examples: 

Chablis and Mâcon: 

Scenographic visit: every Sunday from 10.30 am, 

16-30 July, 13-17 August. History of Burgundy 

wines, special features of terroir-driven winegrowing, 

geology, work in the vineyard and the 

winery. 

The shaper of time by Thomas Volatier: Tuesday 

15 August – 10 am. Discover 2,000 years of winegrowing 

in Burgundy, with family and friends, 

through a unique staged visit. 

Organic wines and vegetarian nibbles: Thursday 3 

August – 6.30 pm. When local market gardeners 

partner with organic winegrowers from Burgundy. 

Beaune: 

Scenographic visit: Every day in July and August 

– 10.30 am or 4.00 pm. Discover Burgundy’s rich 

history over a one-hour visit curated by a guide 

who will reveal all the unique features of terroirdriven 

winegrowing, listed as World Heritage by 

UNESCO. 

The architecture of the Cité des Climats et vins de 

Bourgogne: Sunday 6 August – 10.30 am. All the 

secrets of how it was built and its environmental 

features along with the views by accessing the 

viewing gallery and enjoying a unique interpretation 

of the landscape. 

The full programme can be viewed at: https://reservation.citeclimatsvins-bourgogne.com/ 

CHABLIS, BEAUNE, MÂCON, 

THREE VENUES TELL THE STORY 

OF BURGUNDY 


FOUR 

WINEMAKERS 

FOR SUMMER 

2023 

CHÂTEAU 

D’OLLIÈRES 

Classique 2022 

COTEAUX VAROIS EN PROVENCE 

11,20€ 

THOMAS CHIMIER 

CAVAVIN PORNICHET 

156 Av. du Général de Gaulle 

44380 PORNICHET 

+33 2 40 01 02 93 

pornichet@cavavin.fr 

CHÂTEAU DE JAU 

2022 

CÔTES DU ROUSSILLON 

8,40€ 

OLIVIER GANDELON 

CAVAVIN RIOM 

28 quater Rue de l’Hôtel de ville 

63200 RIOM 

+33 6 12 87 12 98 

riom@cavavin.fr 

CHAMPAGNE 

GOSSET 

Brut Grand Rosé 

CHAMPAGNE 

59,70€ 

PASCAL LE BOT 

CAVAVIN AMBON 

Zone Commerciale Espace Littoral, 

Rue des Orpins 

56190 AMBON 

+33 2 97 48 64 08 

muzillac@cavavin.fr 

DOMAINE TARIQUET 

Classic 2022 

CÔTES DE GASCOGNE 

7,30€ 

ARNAUD BEDU 

CAVAVIN VILLEFRANCHE SUR SAONE 

507 Rue nationale 

69400 VILLEFRANCHE SUR SAONE 

+33 4 69 17 36 53 

villefranchesursaone@cavavin.fr 

THOMAS CHIMIER 

CHATEAU D’OLLIER 

11,2 

156 Av. du Général de 

44380 PORNICHET 

02 40 01 02 93 

pornichet@cavavin.f 

PASCAL LE BOT 

GOSSET ROSE 

59,7 

Zone Commerciale E 

56190 AMBON 

02 97 48 64 08 

muzillac@cavavin.fr 

OLIVIER GANDELO 

CHATEAU DE JAU B 

8,4 

28 quater Rue de l’Hô 

63200 RIOM 

06 12 87 12 98 

riom@cavavin.fr 

ARNAUD BEDU 

DOMAINE TARIQUE 

7,3 

507 Rue nationale 

69400 VILLEFRANCH 

04 69 17 36 53 

villefranchesursaone 

CAVAVIN_GG52_PAGE_9.indd 1 22/06/2023 09:41:53 

7, parc des Fontenelles - 78870 Bailly - France 

Tel.: +33 1 30 80 08 08 - Fax: +33 1 30 80 08 88 

Editorial Directors: 

François Gilbert and Philippe Gaillard 

Editor in chief: Sylvain Patard 

Tasting committee: François Gilbert, Philippe 

Gaillard, Sylvain Patard, François Bezuidenhout, 

Olivier Delorme, Matthieu Gaillard, James Turnbull 

Editorial staff: Michèle Huyard 

Contributors to this issue: Ellen Budge, Camille 

Bernard, Jean-Paul Burias, Alain Echalier, Isabelle 

Escande, Mauricio Llaver, Sylvain Patard, Francesco 

Saverio Russo, Samarie Smith-Meletiou DipWSET, 

Frank Rousseau, Ivo Varbanov and the Bulgarian 

Association of Independent Winegrowers. 

Translation: Sharon Nagel, Marika Quarti, CS 

Traduções 

Sales and Marketing Director: 

Etienne Gaillard : +33 6 30 97 87 26 

etienne@gilbertgaillard.com 

Advertising France: 

Bordeaux - Charentes: Frédéric Comet: 

+33 6 27 58 47 06 - fcomet@gilbertgaillard.com 

Corsica - Languedoc - Provence - Rhône Valley: 

Nicolas Sanseigne: +33 6 46 86 80 01 - 

nsanseigne@gilbertgaillard.com 

Jura - Loire Valley - Savoy - South West - 

Roussillon: Caroline Gilbert: +33 6 84 92 57 61 - 

caroline@gilbertgaillard.com 

Alsace -Beaujolais - Burgundy - Champagne: 

Lucie Jeandel: +33 6 77 72 16 04 - 

ljeandel@gilbertgaillard.com 

Advertising Italy: Sandra Sirvente: 

(+33) 7 63 87 13 13 - ssirvente@gilbertgaillard.com 

Advertising Spain, Portugal: Thibault Leray: 

(+33) 6 84 01 57 24 - tleray@gilbertgaillard.com 

Advertising Central and Eastern Europe: 

Philippe Ricros: +33 7 61 76 01 22 - 

pricros@gilbertgaillard.com 

Advertising Latam : Vivien Morvan 

+33 7 61 76 01 02 – vmorvan@gilbertgaillard.com 

Marketing coordinator: Lucie Le Gall: +33 7 87 07 78 76 

l.legall@gilbertgaillard.com 

Production: Isabelle Méjean-Plé - Tapioka Conseil: 

+33 6 77 12 77 98 - tapiokaconseil@gmail.com 

Lay-out: Lise Delattre - Com l’Hirondelle: +33 9 81 47 75 25 

Murielle Guégan - Impactea Concept: +33 6 59 32 08 65 

Printed in Spain: Matthieu Battini - Carré Collé: 

+33 6 87 27 12 65 

Gilbert & Gaillard Tasting South-Africa: 

Petru Venter, General Manager: +27 82 787 1784 - 

petru@gilbertgaillard.com 

Olivier Duroy, Area Manager: +27 72 389 1083 - 

oduroy@gilbertgaillard.com 

Matthieu Gaillard, Brand Ambassador: +27 66 429 9219 

International Distribution: Pineapple Media Ltd - 

http://www.pineapple-media.com 

Gilbert & Gaillard is published by Vinipresse, SARL with a capital of 35,500 euros • Head Office: 7 parc des Fontenelles, 78870 Bailly, France • Legal representative and Editorial director: 

Sylvain Patard • Legal deposit: Second quarter 2023 • Legal publication n° pending •ISSN 2110-6762 • Reproduction of part or all of the contents of this magazine in any form is 

expressly prohibited. Any company names that appear in the articles are given for information only and have no publicity purpose. 


9

PROVENCE, ITS OUTSTANDING 

WINES AND MUST-VISIT 

LOCATIONS 

BY JEAN-PAUL BURIAS 

PHOTOGRAPHS: 

COURTESY OF THE ESTATES - 

© HERVÉ FABRE 

Provence is a mecca for tourists with a wide range of scenery from the Southern 

Alps to the Mediterranean coastline. It enhances its vineyard-clad rolling hills and 

olive gloves by offering a choice of wine tourism solutions in an enchanting setting. 

We take a closer look at the most beautiful spots in Provence, which also happen to 

produce excellent wines… 

OUTSTANDING VINEYARD SITES AT CHÂTEAU MARGÜI 


PROVENCE 

SPOTS 

THE MAGNIFICENT CHÂTEAU ROUBINE 

The first image is a picture-postcard scene where nature works its magic. Nestled 

perfectly between the Alps and the Mediterranean, the vineyards of Provence offer 

a fascinating stage for radiant vines basking in sunshine and dotted amidst olive groves. 

Set near quintessential villages, beautiful wineries sit comfortably in the landscape, offering 

must-visit locations extending an invitation out to visitors. The wines of Provence 

beguile with their fruitiness and their freshness across all three colours, even though 

rosés have become a benchmark and renowned endorsement of quality worldwide. In 

a region to which visitors flock in summer and winter alike, direct-to-consumer sales 

account for a high percentage of the business activity of its wineries. This offers the 

opportunity to reach out to a captive audience and with visitors keen to travel to the 

region on holiday, it has prompted wineries to develop wine tourism activities that 

combine discovery with tastings. Wonderful holidays accommodate both visual pleasure 

and taste-fuelled experiences driven by a wide variety of enjoyable, appealing wines that 

exude the heady perfumes of Mediterranean vineyards, garrigue and sunshine. 

CHÂTEAU ROUBINE: A UNIQUE SETTING 

Situated between the Verdon gorges and the Mediterranean Sea, Château Roubine offers 

a fusion of vineyards, olive groves and lavender. Edged by an amphitheatre of pines and 

oak trees, its 130 hectares – including 72 planted to vineyards – illustrate an incredible 

variety of landscapes. Such a special location inevitably promotes the production of high 

quality wines with the added bonus of natural drainage, or a ‘roubine’, which means 

stream in Provencal. The history of Château Roubine is interwoven with that of Provence. 


11

VALÉRIE ROUSSELLE, THE OWNER OF CHÂTEAU ROUBINE 

THE VINEYARDS AT CHÂTEAU ROUBINE 

Well-known since the 14th century, it was owned by the Order of the Knights Templar 

before being passed on to the Knights Hospitaller then to a number of Provence families. 

“Our estate is one of Provence’s 18 historic Crus Classés”, explains the winery’s 

owner Valérie Rousselle. “We have the good fortune of being able to offer our visitors 

a unique setting of 72 hectares of unbroken vineyards which form a natural amphitheatre 

lined by pine trees and cork oak. Our wines have always displayed unique 

features stemming both from the use of old Provencal grape varieties and sensitive 

winemaking methods where temperatures are kept under control”. The programme 

of wine tourism activities is varied and robust, recounting the history, the varietal 

range and the unique aspects of the chateau from the terrace of the cellar door shop 

with its sweeping views out over the vineyards. Visitors then take a deep dive into the 

world of wine production as they enter the private doors to the winery. They discover 

the secrets of how Crus Classés wines are crafted, following the journey of grapes 

from the vineyards to their arrival at the winery, through the winemaking process 

and up to bottling. A vineyard trail takes them on an educational and historical walk 

to learn about the winery’s unique terroir with a thirteen-point itinerary that mirrors 

its thirteen grape varieties. “Increasingly, our customers are looking for authentic 

experiences”, continues Rousselle. “We are lucky in that we are one of the largest 

production facilities owned by a Provencal family, which is one of our strong points. 

We try and capitalise on sustainability as much as possible and on aspects of nature 

which are strengths at the winery. We have been practitioners of biodynamic farming 

for several years and also plan to build an eco-friendly hotel as well as a restaurant 

that favours local products served in the heart of our vineyards”. 


THE ROUSSELLE FAMILY 

WITH VALÉRIE, THE 

WINERY’S OWNER, 

ON THE RIGHT 

THE CELLAR AT CHÂTEAU 

ROUBINE 

THE BEAUTIFUL DRIVE AT 

DOMAINE DES FÉRAUD 

SPRING 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 

13

PROVENCE 

SPOTS 

DOMAINE DES FÉRAUD: 

NATURE AS A BACKDROP 

MARKUS CONRAD, THE OWNER OF DOMAINE DES FÉRAUD 

AN EVENING SCENE AT DOMAINE DES FÉRAUD 

At Domaine des Féraud, savouring elegantly-crafted 

wines is not the only pleasure. The winery has developed 

a range of enjoyable experiences to include 

wine tourism activities all year round. Since 2011, 

this charming location has belonged to Markus 

Conrad and his wife Annerose, who were anything 

but obvious candidates for taking over a winery 

and becoming winegrowers. Trumpet player and 

company executive Markus Conrad was 50 when 

he ventured into winegrowing territory, aiming 

to turn his new line of business into an art form 

expressing harmony and offering food for the 

heart. In the middle of the magnificent Maures 

plain, dubbed ‘little Africa’, Domaine des Féraud’s 

trail invites visitors to take some time out to stroll 

amidst this superb unspoilt location which offers 

a home to outstanding biodiversity. The mosaic of 

colours and diversity of natural habitats epitomise 

an environment that welcomes remarkable heritage 

species like Hermann’s tortoise. The former winery 

has been entirely revamped to house the cellar 

door facilities and now offers a contemporary area 

for tasting the organic wines, several of them with 

no added sulphites. This warm and inspirational 

setting even has a patio area beside the pool. “The 

aim is to connect the quality of the wines with that 

of the location”, stresses Conrad. “Provence is a land 

of tourism and direct-to-consumer sales are often 

very important for wineries. We produce fresh, 

fruity, dry and elegant wines that encapsulate the 

Provencal lifestyle”. Direct sales account for 60% of 

the winery’s revenue, mainly due to a skilful combination 

of the quality of the wines available and that 

of the hospitality. These two fundamental aspects 

help generate customer loyalty. 

CHÂTEAU MARGÜI: 

A LEGENDARY VINEYARD SITE 

In the very centre of Provence, Château Margüi is 

suffused with a truly magical feel. Since April 2017, 

it has belonged to Skywalker Vineyards, whose 


THE VINEYARDS AT CHÂTEAU MARGÜI 

YANN JOUET, MANAGING DIRECTOR AT CHÂTEAU MARGÜI 

main shareholder is the American film producer and director George Lucas. 

For thousands of years, three natural springs have nurtured this fertile land that 

has been passionately farmed by men and women. In front of the farmhouse, a 

statue of Ondine symbolises this pure, precious water in a land home to sunshine 

and the Mistral wind. The clay-limestone soils and rolling woodlands create a 

unique setting for the vineyards planted on hillsides. “Our wines come under the 

Coteaux Varois en Provence appellation”, explains winery director Yann Jouët. “The 

woodlands, hillsides and natural springs lend them inherent freshness. In 2021, 

we officially opened a new 80m2 store at the entrance to the winery, the idea being 

to welcome customers in a relaxed setting where the estate’s first vineyards start. 

The tastings are free or can be privatised with a capacity of 100 people for the 

largest events”. The cellar door shop was designed to host groups with a large car 

park, different spaces and sensitively chosen furniture. These features allow it to 

generate 15% of the winery’s revenue and the outlook is particularly bright given 

the potential for tourists to visit. “The chateau is a commercial bonus due to a good 

mix of several factors”, adds Jouët. “The shop supplements its income as part of a 

network of sales – the domestic market for the trade, exports to distributors and 

direct-to-consumer sales”. 


15

PROVENCE 

SPOTS 

DOMAINE LA GRANDE BAUQUIÈRE: 

UNDENIABLE CHARM 

At the foot of the Sainte-Victoire mountain, this 18th century farmhouse displays 

a modern spirit yet also retains a distinctive Provencal aspect, set within a unique 

ecosystem. A wide drive lined by cypress trees and oleanders leads visitors to a 

sun-filled interlude amidst magical vistas which were long a source of inspiration 

for Cézanne and other Impressionist artists. The white lime walls echo the 

hues of the nearby mountain. The ceilings are tinged with the vibrant colours of 

Provence with the green of the olive trees in the entrance hall, the blue of the sky 

in the lounge and the yellow of the wheat fields in the kitchen. Over an 80-hectare 

expanse, Grande Bauquière shares a passionate relationship with the landscape 

and an outstanding vineyard site with an array of wines showing unique characters 

that act as vehicles for emotions. “Our 11 grape varieties enable us to make some 

great blends, both for the rosés and the whites, mirroring an artist’s palette of 

colours”, points out Dorothée Salat who bought the estate with her husband Alain 

in 2012. “The finesse of a terroir richly endowed with aromatic freshness and a 

sensitively curated choice of grape varieties create the style and unique features 

DOROTHÉE SALAT, WHO BOUGHT CHÂTEAU LA GRANDE BAUQUIÈRE 

WITH HER HUSBAND ALAIN IN 2012 


PROVENCE 

SPOTS 

of our wines. Our reception area deliberately 

aims for simplicity, elegance and a poetic complicity 

with nature”. The wine tourism solutions on 

offer allow visitors to discover the estate’s history 

and expertise through its elaborate décor, encyclopaedia 

plates, vineyard tools and maps of the 

vineyards drawn by the visual artist Jean Oddes. 

“We have created an outdoor space to welcome our 

customers surrounded by views of the Sainte-Victoire”, 

adds Salat. “Recently, we began selling wine 

at the estate so history is just beginning for us. 

Since lockdown, customers have grown accustomed 

to going to their local wine merchants. 

But now many enjoy coming here for the beautiful 

scenery and the quality of the wines, with great 

balance between the two”. 

ROBERT GHIGO TASTING WINES 

VIGNOBLES GHIGO DOMAINE 

DE CHÂTEAU VERT: 

AN APPROACHABLE WINERY 

CAMILLE GHIGO, THE DAUGHTER OF ROBERT GHIGO 

This estate certainly warrants its name. The 

chateau at Vignobles Ghigo is nestled amidst 

a quintessential Provence pine forest covering 

several hectares and epitomises unspoilt countryside. 

Mentioned in land registry records dating 

back to the 17th century, it is among the oldest 

in the Côtes-de-Provence-La Londe appellation 

area. Owned by the Ghigo family since 2010, the 

40-hectare site – including 30 planted to organically 

farmed vines – has been set the challenge 

of making biodynamic farming its priority. “The 

winery has a fairly unusual location beside the 

sea and due to urban sprawl, in a town”, says 

Camille Ghigo, the daughter of Robert Ghigo. 

“Our terroir, the quality of the wines – our fresh, 

perfumed rosés, our delicate, appetising whites 

and our fine, harmonious reds – are at the crux 

of our communications, as is the fact that we are 

an approachable, family-run winery. We can sense 

a desire among people to get back to basics. Our 

regular customers and holidaymakers increasingly 

look for these values and a story, in addition to the 

quality of the wines”. Creating outdoor spaces and 

cellar door facilities has optimised conditions for 


17

ROBERT GHIGO, WHO 

PASSED ON HIS LOVE 

OF THE LAND AND WINE TO 

HIS CHILDREN AND 

HIS GRANDDAUGHTERS 

BORDEAUX 

TRAVEL 

VINEYARDS AT DOMAINE 

SAINT-JEAN 

THE PAQUETTE FAMILY 

18 SPRING 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

BENJAMIN MEÏ AND HIS COUSIN 

BERNARD MEÏ, OWNERS OF 

DOMAINE SAINT-JEAN 

welcoming visitors. The emblem featured in the courtyard piques people’s curiosity 

and invites them to come in. Direct-to-consumer sales account for a significant 

chunk of sales, whilst also offering an opportunity to share a strong passion for 

making wine. 

MAISON MEÏ – DOMAINE SAINT-JEAN: 

AN OUTSTANDING LOCATION 

Created in 2019, Maison Meï is primarily a family affair led by two keen wine 

enthusiasts, Benjamin Meï and his cousin Bernard Meï. Domaine Saint-Jean is one 

of the foundation stones of the brand, with its outstanding location and a historic 

farmhouse situated between the Luberon mountain range, the Durance valley and 

the Mediterranean Sea as centrepieces. The Mediterranean climate characterised 

by hot, dry summers and mild, damp winters and the strong, dry Mistral wind 

promote healthy vines where diseases are kept effortlessly at bay. The estate has 

blazed the trail for implementing new concepts like agro-forestry, permaculture, 

agro-ecology and cover crops which limit tillage and retain the natural coolness in 

the mornings. The wines are highly aromatic with distinctive freshness, yet at the 

same time show respect for the inherent expression of their vineyard sites. Plans 

for development include building a 1,700m2 winery boasting a total winemaking 

capacity of 10,000 hectolitres. It includes small-batch winemaking facilities with 


19

PROVENCE 

SPOTS 

JÉRÔME PAQUETTE AND HIS DAUGHTER CLAIRE 

amphorae and barrels. Turning the farmhouse 

into cellar door facilities goes hand in hand with 

the creation of an events venue and accommodation, 

designed to consolidate the wine tourism 

business. “We are on the outskirts of the Luberon 

national park, one of the most visited parts of the 

South of France”, explains Benjamin Meï. “Our 

location 25 minutes from Aix-en-Provence and 

40 minutes from Marseilles international airport 

makes us easy to access. Construction of a new 

winery will be followed by enhanced wine tourism 

activities at the end of 2024. The aim is play a 

pivotal role in showcasing Luberon wines”. Wine 

tourism is viewed as a driver of growth and the 

strategy is paying off with 15% of sales in France 

and 85% in export markets. The recent purchase 

of Château La Gavède complements the desire 

for growth. 

CHÂTEAU PAQUETTE: 

SURROUNDED BY PINE GROVES 

VINEYARDS SET IN THE HEART OF PROVENCE’S PINE GROVES 

The history of Château Paquette is linked to a 

family that became spellbound by this unique location 

in 1952. Hidden amongst the pine groves, the 

vineyards look as if they have been perched on the 

volcanic rocks of the Estérel mountains, nurtured 

by the gentle spray of the sea. The winery welcomes 

visitors so that they can take a natural dive into its 

vineyards. Then, once back at the cellar door shop, 

they can enjoy a tasting of the wines curated by its 

staff and indulge in a moment of sheer pleasure 

and conviviality. A leafy terrace guarantees ideal 

conditions for savouring an appetising choice of 

nibbles served with a glass of wine. “Everything 

I do focuses on creating what I feel is the finest 

site-expressiveness with an impactful range of 

environmental commitments”, believes Jérôme 

Paquette. “To fulfil my objective, I try and stay as 

hands off as possible and let the fruit speak for 

itself. I like vintages to be different because they 

offer variation. I view my role as a craft winegrower”. 

The cellar has remain unchanged and 

encapsulates three generations of history. “The 

most important thing is the quality of our hospi- 


PROVENCE 

SPOTS 

tality”, adds Paquette. “Each visitor can spend time tasting our wines by sitting beneath the plane 

trees, just as they would in a village square. We like to welcome them with a small bunch of everlasting 

flowers, especially when they have travelled long distances by plane and cannot take any bottles 

back with them. At least they can keep a souvenir and a lasting memento of our winery”. 

CHÂTEAU PARADIS: AN AUTHENTIC WELCOME 

Visitors to Château Paradis are immediately grasped by the significance of history here. The first 

vine plantings on its land date back to 600 BC when the Phocaeans settled in Marseilles. Subsequently, 

the Romans built Villa Regina and a farm with a grape press. The chateau’s land has been 

sold to a number of owners over time but it has always retained its strong bond with the culture of 

wine. Since they bought it in 2011, Xavier and Odile Thieblin, who value their Provence origins, have 

aimed to enhance the winery and create terroir-driven wines with genuine character. A signposted 

vineyard trail with picturesque views out over the Luberon and curated tastings all add to the winery’s 

appeal. “Our richly aromatic, fresh, elegant wines offer a mirror to our terroir and our expertise”, 

comments Odile Thieblin. Christine Pautut, head of wine tourism, expounds further: “Our wines are 

promoted through our unspoilt natural surroundings and cellar door facilities with floor to ceiling 

CHÂTEAU PARADIS LOCATED NORTH OF THE SAINTE VICTOIRE MOUNTAIN 

WHICH CAN BE SEEN IN THE BACKGROUND 


21

XAVIER AND ODILE THIEBLIN, 

THE OWNERS OF CHÂTEAU 

PARADIS 

LÉGENDES 

JÉRÉMIE PECKRE, THE DIRECTOR 

OF CHÂTEAU PARADIS, IS 

INVOLVED IN EVERY ASPECT OF 

THE WINERY ON A DAILY BASIS 

MATURING THE MOST PREMIUM 

WINES AT CHÂTEAU PARADIS 

windows opposite the vineyards. These are all part of the quality customer experience 

enhanced by authentic hospitality that echoes our inherent spirit. A lot of foreigners who 

have a particular soft spot for Provence and France’s gourmet food and wine heritage 

also pay us a visit. They come for the quality of the wine, and for our hospitality. This 

marketing bonus is a complementary resource for promoting our wines”. 

CHÂTEAU DE FONSCOLOMBE: GUARANTEED ENJOYMENT 

Located in a splendid setting, Château de Fonscolombe offers an unrivalled experience 

combining great facilities, accommodation in a luxury hotel and a tour of a winery 

renowned for its excellence. The hotel is designed as a spacious house where every 

different part comes together to foster a family spirit, whilst also ensuring everyone’s 

privacy. The benchmark vineyards are rooted in Roman times. The very minerally soils 

and climate suffuse the wines with a fine, fruity nose, across all three colours. “The cellar 

door shop is very well situated in the Durance valley and we have publicised this aspect 

of the winery”, stresses Sylvie Hanicotte, head of the winery. “Building work is afoot 

with a new winery and cellar door facilities. Visitors come for the quality of the wines 

and their price tags. Sixty percent of the wines are sold direct-to-consumers and there 

is no let-up in sales”. 


BENJAMIN MEÏ, OF 

DOMAINE SAINT-JEAN 

THE CELLAR DOOR AT 

CHÂTEAU PAQUETTE 

THE OUTSTANDING 

CHATEAU AT CHÂTEAU DE 

FONSCOLOMBE 


23

SYLVIE HANICOTTE, 

HEAD OF THE WINERY 

AT CHÂTEAU DE FONSCOLOMBE 

LÉGENDES 

AN AERIAL VIEW OF CHÂTEAU 

DE FONSCOLOMBE 

CHÂTEAU DE FONSCOLOMBE, 

IN THE HEART OF PROVENCE 

THE APPEAL OF THE REGION AND ITS WINES 

IS HYPNOTISING 

France’s oldest wine region is now extremely popular. With export volumes booming, 

Provence has established a reputation for itself as the world’s leading producer of rosé 

wines, whilst also offering great potential for reds and whites. Wineries have skilfully 

developed production with some true terroir-driven vinous treasures from low-cropping 

vines, made using very elaborate winemaking techniques where temperature control 

is a constant. The vineyards seem to be magnetised by all these different aspects and 

from their ancient, hardy rocky mountain sites, they live in harmony with the Mediterranean 

climate. Production of balanced, elegant wines with tight-knit tannins is a major 

attraction at the core of a virtuous circle that increasingly includes year-round tourism. 

“We don’t need to rely on anything contrived to develop hospitality”, concludes Jérôme 

Paquette from Château Paquette. “Many wineries are experiencing good growth in their 

wine tourism business, partly due to the fact that the pandemic forced us to reinvent 

ourselves. I don’t know of any good wines that are produced in ugly vineyards, which 

is why I am proud to offer people my wines – which I hope are good – in an endearing 

location which I hope is memorable”. This fusion between beautiful scenery, wineries 

and enjoyable wines is undeniably an extremely valuable asset to have. 


4 covers: France, Italy, Spain, South Africa 

This edition is now available until September 2023 

SUBSCRIPTION ORDER FORM (may be photocopied) to be completed and returned to : 

GILBERT & GAILLARD - 7 Parc des Fontenelles - 78870 Bailly - France - Fax : (+33)1 30 80 08 88 

Name : ……………………………………………………………………………………………… First name : …………………………………………… 

Company (if applicable) : ……………………………………………….….……………………………………………………………………………… 

Address : …………………………………………………………………....…………………………………………………..………………………………… 

Zip code : …………………...……………… City : …………………………………………………………………………………....……………………… 

State (if applicable) : ………………………………………………… Country: …………………………………………….…………………………… 

email : ……………………………………………………………………...……………………………………………..……….………………………………… 

I subscribe for 1 year (4 issues) : …….. € 29.90* (including tax) 

I subscribe for 2 years (8 issues) : ….. € 59.80* (including tax) 

*Rates valid until 30/09/2023 - Price per issue: € 7,95 

Signature : 

Payment to the order of GILBERT & GAILLARD by: 

Cheque enclosed (France only) 

Credit card : VISA MASTERCARD AMERICAN EXPRESS 

Card number : ……………………………………………………. 

Expiry date : ……… / ……… 

CVV(code on the back of the card - if applicable): ………….. 

SARL Vinipresse - 7, Parc des Fontenelles - 78870 Bailly - France - N° Siret : 488 521 014 00016 - VAT NUMBER : FR 45 488 521 014

BOURGOGNE VILLAGE, 

TERROIR WITH AN AFFORDABLE 

PRICE TAG 

BY ALAIN ECHALIER 

PHOTOGRAPHS: 

COURTESY OF THE ESTATES, 

It is sometimes tempting to think that Burgundy is all about its revered giants, 

and nothing else. Its Chambertins, Montrachets and Cortons, all those ruinously 

expensive labels that are not only reserved for an elite audience, but also totally 

impossible to lay your hands on. Or at best, its Meursault and Gevrey Chambertin 

Premiers Crus, that are barely more affordable. But no, the ‘Village’ appellation 

level provides the perfect solution for those who want to drink very good wines, 

without breaking the bank. And if you’re prepared to spend some time searching 

– they are only produced on a boutique scale – some of them even have extremely 

affordable price tags. We dive deep into some classic offerings for enlightened 

enthusiasts, and a genuine treasure trove for the geeky browsers. 

WINES ARE TASTED IN THE CORNU’S WINERY 


BURGUNDY 

APPELLATION 

A RAINBOW OVER THE MOUNTAIN NEAR DOMAINE GARAUDET 

In Burgundy, wines are named after the location where their grapes are grown. The more 

extensive the area, the broader the typicity of the wines. The smaller the area, the more 

the style is precise and unique, which often makes these the most sought-after wines. 

UNDERSTANDING BURGUNDY’S ‘PYRAMID’ 

Usually, appellations are classified using a pyramid system. At the bottom is the entire 

wine region, the Bourgogne appellation, which is thus the regional level. At the top are 

the Grands Crus, the most expensive labels. Generally speaking, they are named after 

the relevant vineyard block, such as Clos de Vougeot. Lastly, in the middle, are the Village 

appellations. This is the most common geographic scale and matches the way farms used 

to work, based on the radius covered by man and horse. Some appellations have been used 

for a long time and are prestigious, such as Volnay and Nuits-Saint-Georges. Others, 

which were subsumed into an intermediary level between regional and village, have ‘won 

their independence’ after research to establish their individual typicity – Ladoix is a case 

in point. 

DIFFERENT TYPES OF ‘VILLAGE’ 

Within the village appellation, two types of winemaking strategies can be used. Either 

wines made from grapes grown in several of the village’s vineyards are blended, in which 

case the wine is simply named after the village, as with Chablis. These are occasionally 


27

BURGUNDY 

APPELLATION 

THE DARLES IN THEIR VINEYARDS IN FRONT OF IRANCY 

referred to as ‘round wines’. Or the grapes come 

from a single vineyard – in Burgundy these 

are known as ‘climats’ – and the name of the 

vineyard block can be stated, after that of the 

village. Chablis Milly is one such example. 

A diminutive number of ‘climats’ are known 

to be superior in quality to others, but do not 

reach the level of perfection attained by the 

Grands Crus. They can produce Premier Cru 

appellation wines. These particular ‘climats’ are 

always named after the village but the focus on 

the label is on the character of the 1st growth. 

For example, Chablis 1er Cru Côte de Léchet. But 

they are not the topic of this article. 

A final noteworthy point is that the descriptor 

‘Grand Vin de Bourgogne’ applies to all wines 

from Burgundy, including the village level. It 

is therefore not a component of the appellation 

pyramid but rather an indication that the wine 

belongs to the region. 

IRANCY: DOMAINE ERIC DARLES 

AND ITS DISTINCTIVE WINES 

THE DARLES’ WINERY 

In northern Burgundy, West of Chablis – the 

renowned home of white wines – is the magnificent 

mediaeval village of Irancy where only red 

wines are grown over 190 hectares. The clay-limestone 

soils here are slightly redder. This is 

the location for the estate that Eric Darles took 

over in 1995 after inheriting it from his father, 

and where he farms with his wife Christine. The 

Darles family has been producing Irancy wines 

for many generations and the present-day estate 

has 12 hectares under vine. 

Irancy accounts for two-thirds of its wines. 

Darles stresses that one of the unique features 

of the wine is that it can contain 5 to 10% of the 

César variety, in mixed plantings alongside 

Pinot noir. These vigorous vines are challenging 

to work with and produce very tannic, 

darkly-coloured grapes which Darles enjoys in 

his wines. It lends them even more distinctive 

typicity, and he likes the extra bottle age the 

grapes provide. Ideally, his Irancy should be 


BURGUNDY 

APPELLATION 

savoured after around a decade. In fact, he does keep back some bottles so 

that older vintages can be sold. And despite the success of his wines, he does 

still market some vintages like 2019. Although its typicity explains why its price 

tag is higher than for a regional Burgundy – which sells for around €8 – Irancy 

is still a very affordable wine at around €13 a bottle. 

Depite its fairly northerly location, the village is affected by climate change. 

Darles has noticed that his wines are becoming more concentrated and 

powerful, even though they continue to comply with the basic criteria. On the 

palate, the 2020 vintage is therefore more reminiscent of black than red fruit. 

The Darles also sell single vineyard Irancy, however, which displays notes of 

raspberries and spices with fine tannins. 

DOMAINE AEGERTER: ALL OF BURGUNDY 

Located in Nuits-Saint-Georges, the estate owns 15 hectares under vine out 

of a total sourcing area of 50 hectares from which the wines are made and 

AT DOMAINE AEGERTER, THE BOSS TASTES THE WINES 


29

BURGUNDY 

APPELLATION 

EMILIE PANSIOT IN HER WINERY 

LES CHANTEMERLES AT DOMAINE PANSIOT 

matured. The trading business is based on grape 

supply contracts. Paul Aegerter, the owner and 

winegrower now helms the family company on 

his own. As his range covers all of Burgundy, 

his insight into the ‘village’ level is particularly 

relevant. Right off the bat, he stresses 

that ‘village’ wines run the gamut in terms of 

pricing, ranging from around 15 euros for a 

Mâcon Village to €90-100 for a Meursault or a 

Puligny-Montrachet. 

The Aegerters have a fairly unique distribution 

model for Burgundy as exports account for only 

20% of sales, compared with 50% for the French 

market and a balance of 30% to airline companies. 

The French also tend to buy more Chablis, 

Mâcon, Chorey and Maranges, whereas export 

markets import Nuits-Saint-Georges, Vosne 

Romanée and Puligny-Montrachet. Aegerter 

then goes on to point out that all of these 

wines are increasingly rare, particularly the 

latest vintages which yielded small volumes. 

Although new appellations such as Vézeley have 

been established, they are few and far between. 

Broadly speaking, the appellations are cast in 

stone. Finding new vineyards to lease is virtually 

impossible, particularly for the famous villages 

where over the past few years some extremely 

wealthy buyers have invested. 

Increasingly, the wines therefore have to be sold 

on a limited allocation basis so that everyone gets 

a look in. Although prices have risen, they have 

remained reasonable and have not compensated 

for falling volumes. Aegerter therefore has greater 

faith in the development of the regional appellations 

of Hautes Côtes de Nuits and Beaune, where 

the terroir is conducive to producing wines that 

can improve, some of them single vineyard offerings. 

This is where quality Burgundy can increasingly 

be found, for under €30. 

DOMAINE PANSIOT: 

A HOST OF APPELLATIONS 

This family estate is located in Corgoloin, in 

southern Côte de Nuits. It now boasts 21 hec- 


BURGUNDY 

APPELLATION 

tares and was taken over by Emilie Pansiot in 

2004. She produces village appellations such 

as Meursault which she sells for around €29 a 

bottle, but also markets lesser-known appellations 

including Chorey-Lès-Beaune, for nearly 

half the price. The red is fruity, appetising and 

easy-drinking when young because Pansiot enjoys 

fruit-forward wines – and she makes and 

markets the wines. When she has time, she can 

also be found in the vineyards. She produces a 

white Chorey-Lès-Beaune too, which is slightly 

minerally, matured in casks for two to three 

months and offers up some of the oiliness of 

Meursault, but to a lesser degree. 

Her Beaune appellation red wine, the ‘Clos 

des Mariages’ – a single vineyard which, as its 

name suggests, is surrounded by a wall – is 

quite soft because the sandy soils do not retain 

water. In fact, it is always the first vineyard to 

be harvested. 

The Côtes de Nuits are the core of the estate’s 

range. The wines are either a blend of vineyards 

– a Côtes de Nuits-Villages – or single vineyards. 

‘Les Chantemerles’ is the estate’s original red 

wine label. A single vineyard approach is totally 

coherent because the vineyards extend over soils 

with different geological formations, lending 

the wine its balance. 

Domaine Pansiot exports only a minute proportion 

of its wines – a mere 1%. Pansiot sells via 

trading companies, wine merchants and increasingly 

to private customers. For those who enjoy 

visiting wineries, there is always someone at 

the estate to welcome visitors by appointment 

on Saturdays. 

FLORENT GARAUDET 

THE VILLAGE OF MONTHÉLIE 

DOMAINE GARAUDET: 

TRADITIONALLY-STYLED MONTHÉLIE 

Florent Garaudet has been the winegrower here 

since 2020 and is the family’s fifth-generation 

representative. The present-day winery located 

in Monthélie has 11.5 hectares under vine. Sixty 

percent of the vineyards are planted to Pinot 

noir, in the village of Monthélie, with a balance 


31

BURGUNDY 

APPELLATION 

primarily of Chardonnay in Meursault and Puligny. His father still lends him a 

hand and there is one employee but more staff is needed! 

Monthélie, points out Garaudet, has 160 hectares under vine and is the smallest 

appellation in the Côte-de-Beaune, sandwiched between Meursault and Volnay. 

In fact, prior to 1937, the wines – most of them red – were sold under the Volnay 

or Pommard appellations, which explains why Monthélie is not better known. 

Hence, it combines “the finesse of Volnay and the powerfulness of Pommard”, 

says Garaudet. 

He makes his wines in “the Burgundy style”, in other words, designed to be laid 

down. They are neither fined nor filtered. The wine is fruity with great balance and 

should be drunk within the first eight years or so. In fact, often he markets at least 

three different vintages. It is worthwhile having some stocks of red wine for greater 

variety, he explains. Despite this, the Americans often want the latest vintage, he 

smiles. A bottle will set you back around €30 to €35. His white wines, conversely, 

embrace prestigious appellations and fly off the shelves. Seventy percent of his 

wines are shipped abroad and Garaudet prefers to deal with a different importer 

for each country, primarily the USA, Japan and China, but also the UK, Brazil 

and Singapore. 

FLORENT GARAUDET AND HIS DAUGHTER MÉLINE 


BURGUNDY 

APPELLATION 

DOMAINE BOURGOGNE-DEVAUX: 

A POMMARD LIKE NO OTHER 

BERNARD LÉGER PLUMET (CHALET 

POUILLY) PRESENTS HIS WINES 

IN GERMANY 

ELINE, THE AMERICAN 

GRANDDAUGHTER, RETURNS FOR 

HARVESTING AT CHALET POUILLY 

The aptly-named Bourgogne family are in fact two 

winegrowing brothers with a difference. Their 

estate, located in Meloisey, has 4.1 hectares under 

vine and both brothers have two jobs. Luc, 38, is also 

a banker, whilst his brother Fabrice, 41, is a winegrower 

at the Hospices de Beaune. Sometimes their 

father lends a hand, and they sell 30,000 bottles, 

hence their small winery. 

They produce two Pommard appellation labels, 

including one called ‘Vignot’ grown on very stony 

soils in a vineyard facing due South, which reminds 

them more of a Volnay. The wines sell for around 

€35 a bottle. The appellation’s reputation is such 

that the wines are in high demand, particularly 

among Americans. The two brothers therefore 

strive to distribute their wines as best they can. Luc 

enjoys savouring the wines after 3 to 5 years bottle 

age, when they start to develop aromas of undergrowth 

and game. 

They also produce a red Haute-Côte-de-Beaune – 

this is not a village but a sub-regional appellation. 

One of Domaine Bourgogne-Devaux’s characteristics 

is that some of the vineyards are located close to 

those for Pommard. Everything is therefore vinted 

as single-vineyard offerings, producing six different 

labels. In 2020, the quality was superb, claims 

Luc, with pronounced alcohol levels. In fact, it 

offers the best value for money. When the brothers 

present their entire range, consumers ultimately 

forget that it is a Haute-Côte-de-Beaune. 

THE FAMOUS SOLUTRÉ ROCK 

DOMAINE DU CHALET POUILLY: 

MAJESTIC ST VÉRAN 

At the helm of this estate is a threesome – Bernard 

Léger-Plumet, a former doctor; his wife, a biologist; 

and their daughter based in New York. 

Founded in 1850, the winery is situated – the 

clue is in the name – in the hamlet of Pouilly. It 

has 9 hectares under vine and its village appellations 

are Pouilly Fuissé, St Véran and Mâcon 

Solutré-Pouilly. 


33

BURGUNDY 

APPELLATION 

PIERRE CORNU 

AN AUTUMN SKY OVER THE ENTRANCE 

TO CLOS DICONNE 

“Pouilly-Fuissé is an appellation that dates back to 

1936, well before St Véran (1976) and the wine sells 

for around €19”, explains Bernard Léger-Plumet. 

“It always has a little more body and is matured for 

between 9 and 19 months in wooden vessels with a 

capacity of 400, 500 or 600 litres”. They have tried 

stainless steel, but their customers always prefer 

wood though only as a complement – “you mustn’t 

be able smell or taste it”. The appellation’s reputation 

stems from several factors: vineyard sites 

that encapsulate a geological era, the Solutrean; a 

French President, François Mitterand, who liked to 

walk up Mount Solutré; and long-standing exports 

to the United States. 

The St Véran, which sells for around €14, is always 

fermented in stainless steel at the winery. This 

is a fine Burgundy wine with a very reasonable 

price tag and is often described as “the best value 

for money in Burgundy”. They even sell some in 

New Zealand! Lastly, the Mâcon Solutré-Pouilly, 

also made entirely in tanks, sells for €11. 

“The quality of the wines across the region has 

come along in leaps and bounds”, stresses Léger- 

Plumet, who has taken part in many judging 

panels. Wineries have transitioned to bottling 

their wines and installed temperature-controlled 

tanks. But prices need to stay reasonable because 

otherwise New World wines from countries like 

Argentina could outpace them. 

DOMAINE EDMOND CORNU: 

WORSHIPPING LADOIX 

This family-run estate located in Ladoix boasts 16 

hectares under vine. Pierre, 60, works with Edith, 

his wife, Emmanuel their cousin and Lucie their 

daughter, with retired winegrower Edmond always 

ready to lend a hand. 

Ladoix is mostly red wine, explains Pierre Cornu. 

Sure enough, of the 100 hectares under vine, only 

20 or so produce white wine. The village is situated 

just South of the start of the Côte de Nuits. In fact, 

the vineyards are divided into two parts – one on 

Corton hill, and one that is geologically part of 

the Côte de Nuits. The soils date from the Middle 


LUCIE CORNU, EDITH CORNU, 

PIERRE CORNU AND 

EMMANUEL BOIREAU 

Jurassic and are therefore older and the wines recall large, fleshy black cherries. 

Conversely, in the Côte de Beaune part, the soils date from the Upper Jurassic and 

the Pinot noir is more reminiscent of red fruits and more floral. 

At the estate, everything is fermented as single vineyards – there are 14 tanks of 

red wine. After blending, the family markets two Ladoix labels and one Aloxe- 

Corton, along with a little Chorey-Lès-Beaune. Aloxe is better known than Ladoix 

which, forty years ago, was sold in bulk as Côte de Beaune Village, or Ladoix Côte 

de Beaune. However, thanks to the famous ‘terroiriste’ American importer Neal 

Rosenthal, the Cornus began to produce ‘Ladoix’. Since then, the village has been 

properly specified/identified and it has become their pride and joy. That’s because 

since 1870, when a fire destroyed their great-great-grandfather’s house in Chorey- 

Lès-Beaune and he moved to the village, Ladoix has been their home. 

WINES FOR ‘HONEST DRINKERS’ 

The village level for Burgundy wines therefore resonates with ‘honest drinkers’ 

– a far cry from the snobbish drinkers who choose wines based on their 

label – yet at the same time offers genuine quality linked to the region’s myriad 

vineyard sites. We can only hope that in a globalised world, with a growing taste 

for wine developing among new consumer countries, this is how things will stay 

for many years to come, because it is the perfect epitome of Burgundy’s deeprooted 

farming spirit. 


35

SPANISH ROSÉS EXCEL 

IN EXPORT MARKETS 

BY ISABELLE ESCANDE 

PHOTOGRAPHS: 


Although some Spanish wine regions have traditionally produced rosés, there is no 

denying that the reputation of pink wines has never equalled that of the country’s 

reds or whites. But the winds of change are blowing, lifting the outlook for rosés. 

Increasingly, bodegas are embracing the huge potential for this style of wine, when 

it is crafted with care. 

RIGHT FROM THE OUTSET, BODEGAS TEMPORE FOCUSED ON ORGANIC WINEGROWING, BECOMING ONE OF THE REGION’S TRAILBLAZERS 


SPAIN 

EXPORT 

BODEGAS MARQUÉS DEL ATRIO IS SITUATED IN THE RIOJA ALTA REGION 

The change is already reaping rewards – Spanish rosés are increasingly 

in demand in the international marketplace and faced with competition 

from French and Italian behemoths, the industry is determined to garner 

attention. 

For many years, Spanish bodegas paid little or no attention to production of 

rosé wines, explains Jennifer Lafuente at Bodega Tempore. “They tended to 

be more an offshoot of red wine production” rather than classed as products 

in their own right. That perception has now changed, however. Not only 

is rosé viewed as a potentially high quality pour, it is also seen as a way of 

aligning with market trends and therefore a genuine blessing for wineries 

that export. 

That’s because rosés tick all the boxes. Fresh and fruit-forward, they match 

the zeitgeist for less woodsy and alcoholic wines, ones that are more consumer-friendly. 

This also explains why in Spain, where consumption of rosé 

has never really been significant, the younger generations are the catalyst 

for a change in drinking patterns. In export markets, where rosés are traditionally 

shipped, the figures are constantly on the rise. Although rosés still 

only represent a relatively small share of production at the five wineries we 

met with – totalling 10% at most – exports have grown. 


37

ANNA ROVIRA, 

THE WINEMAKER 

AT CELLER DE CAPÇANES 

Why the popularity though? The wineries have deliberately focused on the 

variety and quality of their wines to satisfy differing needs. They have shied 

away from a single image and have successfully combined tradition and new 

techniques, adding a dash of free-thinking which seems to have hit the mark. 

A cursory glance at the infinite array of colours of Spanish rosé – ranging 

from onion skin to deep pink – reveals just how much the category is proudly 

displaying its varied wardrobe… 

CELLER DE CAPÇANES, APPETISING ROSÉS 

AND A KOSHER LABEL 

Celler de Capçanes has made a name for itself, among other things, by producing 

kosher wines. One of the most representative wineries in the Montsant 

appellation area in Catalonia, it crafts two rosés, one of which complies 

with the ritual requirements of the Jewish religion. Both are made using the 

saignee process from the native variety Grenache, “which lends the wines very 

perfumed, fresh characters with intense red fruit notes, like strawberries or 

raspberries”, explains Helena Pagès, tasked with exports and communications 

at the winery. “It gives our rosé wines very appetising flavours and a colour 

spectrum ranging from pale pink onion skin to a very captivating, slightly 

darker pink”. 


ÁNGELA PARDO, 

THE WINEMAKER 

AT BODEGAS NODUS 

Their colour may be more akin to the rosés of Provence than those of northern 

Spain, but what sets Celler de Capçanes’ wines apart is “their fruity palate, their 

silky tannins and their saline touch which offers up a very long, elegant finish”, 

stresses Pagès. The wines have been widely distributed across the European 

market for several years, primarily in Germany, the United Kingdom, Switzerland 

and Belgium, major rosé consumer countries. As for the kosher label, its 

main following outside the cities of Europe is in Israel and the United States. 

BODEGAS NODUS, MULTI-FACETED BOBAL 

Located in one of the finest wine areas in DO Utiel-Requena, West of Valencia, 

Bodegas Nodus is set within a naturally blessed region of high environmental 

value. Surrounded by pine groves and eight monumental holm oaks, the winery 

has 200 hectares, 80% of which is planted to the native grape variety Bobal with 

vines over 40 years old. 

Obviously, rosés provide a great showcase for the variety, with its fruity aromas, 

although Tempranillo is also used, stresses the bodega’s export assistant Marisa 

Donnan. Bobal allows the winery to run the gamut in terms of nuance and 

to meet the needs of its international customers. Its rosés are mostly sold in 

export markets and are “seasonal wines”, admits Donnan. Orders are placed 


39

HARVESTING BY HAND 

IN THE HIGH-ELEVATION 

VINEYARDS AT CELLER DE 

CAPÇANES 

BORDEAUX 

TRAVEL 

ADOLFO DE LAS HERAS 

POLO, THE DIRECTOR OF 

BODEGAS NODUS 

BODEGAS NODUS MAKES 

ROSÉS IN A VARIETY OF 

STYLES TO MEET DIFFERENT 

CONSUMER TASTES 


SPAIN 

EXPORT 

in the first quarter of the year, ahead of the 

summer season. 

RODRIGO ESPINOSA, THE WINEMAKER 

AT BODEGAS MARQUÉS DEL ATRIO 

There is no denying that demand for rosé wine 

has constantly increased over the past few 

years, adds Donnan, particularly in markets 

like Holland and Germany. Bobal, with its 

low alcohol content and good acidity, appeals 

to international palates. Also, the short, cold 

macerations and saignee method used by the 

winery produce wines that are very fresh yet 

also offer up volume on the palate, and these 

qualities are something present-day consumers 

value. 

BODEGAS MARQUÉS DEL ATRIO, 

WHERE ROSÉ MEETS INTENSITY 

According to Eduardo Peña, marketing director 

at Bodegas Marqués del Atrio, the reason why 

rosés have always been confined to “local 

consumption” in Spain is because they have 

never developed a full-fledged identity or robust 

reputation. That is, until now, with a radical 

change in direction. 

The rosés crafted by Marqués del Atrio receive 

the same care and attention as their red and 

white counterparts, proudly displaying their 

aromatic intensity. The nose delivers an 

explosion of fruit aromas where red berries 

are entwined with citrus perfumes and a dash 

of flowers. Volume and freshness adorn the 

palate. These features stem partly from the 

choice of cold fermentation, which maximises 

aromatic integrity, after the fruit has gone 

direct-to-press. 

ROSÉS ACCOUNT FOR 7 % OF PRODUCTION 

AT BODEGAS MARQUÉS DEL ATRIO 

This “more modern” style resonates with preferences 

expressed in recent times in the global 

marketplace, stresses Peña. Although sales of 

rosé account for a marginal 5% of total exports, 

the percentage is bound to increase due to 

the rise in importer countries, adds Peña. 

Yesterday’s Germany and the United Kingdom 


41

SPAIN 

EXPORT 

have now been joined by the United States 

and Mexico, along with Asia, even though the 

pandemic did put a damper on exports. 

BODEGAS TEMPORE, GRENACHE, 

WHAT ELSE? 

THE TEAM AT BODEGAS TEMPORE 

Bodegas Tempore was the first to conquer 

international markets with its organic 

Grenache so it was only natural that the 

winery should choose the variety to make its 

rosés. “The choice of single varietal Grenache 

is a meaningful aspect of our identity”, admits 

Paula Yago Aznar, the winery’s owner, “along 

with our commitment to the environment and 

biodynamic farming”. Obviously, of paramount 

importance too is the unique terroir of the 

Lower Aragon region, with its limestone and 

mineral soils. 

Here, Grenache thrives and the variety is 

conducive to producing “very fruity, aromatic, 

elegant and fresh rosés, that work equally well 

for newbies as they do for the more demanding 

consumers”, explains Yago. These traits 

offer differentiation in overseas markets where 

demand is increasingly strong. Although rosés 

make up only a small share of production (8%), 

there is no denying that exports are flying 

high. Traditional markets, such as Belgium 

and Holland, have now been joined by other 

importer countries such as the United States 

and Central Europe. 

The rosés at Bodegas Tempore are extremely 

fruit-focused with very appealing, rich 

aromatics, length on the palate and freshness, 

none of which is a mere accident. The fruit is 

selected in the vineyard and harvested early “to 

preserve ideal acidity levels”, says Yago. Once 

at the winery, it goes direct-to-press in order 

to avoid contact between the must and the 

skins and produce a unique, subtle coral hue, 

which is every bit as appealing as the colour of 

Provence rosés! 


PAULA YAGO AND HER 

BROTHER VICTOR 

CURRENTLY RUN THE 

FAMILY ESTATE 

WORK IN THE WINERY IS 

CONDUCTED IN THE MOST 

NATURAL WAY POSSIBLE AT 

BODEGAS TEMPORE 

A TIGHT-KNIT TEAM TO 

SHOWCASE YECLA’S 

HERITAGE AT BODEGAS 

CANDELA 


43

BROTHERS ANTONIO 

AND ALFREDO CANDELA 

AND THEIR FATHER, 

WHO PASSED AWAY IN 2015 

BODEGAS ANTONIO CANDELA, MONASTRELL AS 

AN HEIRLOOM 

In its high-elevation vineyards in Yecla, this family has been growing Monastrell 

– aka Mourvèdre – for four generations. The variety acts as a mirror to 

its quality terroir and the winery’s rosés inevitably pay homage to this native 

grape. The wines show aromas of red fruits and flowers as well as a rounded, 

silky palate. Just like the other wineries surveyed, Bodegas Antonio Candela 

has also witnessed an increase in its exports of rosé, prompting the company 

to expand its portfolio, explains its export manager, Esther Muñoz Iniesta. 

By using short soaking, the winery produces a pale pink colour that aligns 

with current trends. The rosés ferment at low temperatures in stainless steel 

tanks and every step is taken to underscore the freshness of the aromas. The 

winery’s impressive track record illustrates that the boom in Spanish rosés 

is not confined to the regions traditionally associated with this style of wine, 

including Navarre and Rioja. Their popularity is widespread, allowing Spanish 

rosés to establish a firm foothold in the international marketplace. And for 

Bardolino and Provence, the warning salvo has been fired! 


BULGARIA 

A NEW CHAPTER FOR WINE 

BY IVO VARBANOV AND THE 

BULGARIAN ASSOCIATION OF 

INDEPENDENT WINEGROWERS - 

GILBERT & GAILLARD 

PHOTOGRAPHS: 

COURTESY OF THE ESTATES 

Change is afoot in the vineyards of Bulgaria, after many years of soul-searching. 

As the country re-emerges on the international wine scene, we take a closer look 

at the potential of its native grapes, which thrive alongside its well-established 

collection of international varietals. 

VILLA MELNIK WINERY 

LÉGENDES 


45

ROSÉ BY ROSALEA WINERY 

THE VINEYARDS AT KAPATOVO 

The revolution and development of the Bulgarian wine industry has begun. It all started 

in the late 1990s with the development of a clutch of new estates. New vineyards were 

planted and wineries built, in some cases with EU funding. There are now 400+ wineries 

registered, and the number continues to climb year-on-year. 

A WINE MAP IN TRANSITION… 

Legal definitions enacted in 1960 divided Bulgaria into five main wine regions, each one with 

different and unique soil types, specific grape varieties as well as climatic conditions. The 

regions were, the Danube Plain, the Black Sea Coast, the Rose Valley, the Thracian Valley and 

Struma Valley. However since August 16, 2005, the country has been divided into two main 

regions to produce Protected Geographic Indication wines or PGIs: PGI Danube Plain (25% 

of total area under vine) and PGI Thracian Lowlands (75% of total acreage), where the Balkan 

Mountains were used as a natural border to split the country into the Northern and Southern 

regions. Many wine professionals still refer to the five wine regions pre-2005 when talking 

about wine. There is currently a movement led by local wine professionals, the media and 

winegrowers’ associations supporting the idea of dividing Bulgaria back into five regions, 

or even into nine regions: North-West, Danube Plain, North Black Sea Coast, South Black 

Sea Coast, East Thracian Valley, West Thracian Valley, Rose Valley, Sakar, and Struma Valley. 

WINEMAKING 

Bulgaria is now fairly well-versed in modern winemaking techniques, for example using 

temperature controlled stainless steel fermenters. The wines can be aged in a variety of 

French, American, Hungarian and Bulgarian oak barrels. Bulgaria adopted the concept 

of terroir rather late, after 2000. Today, most of the new wineries produce wines from 

their own vineyards. Yields are still low since most of the vineyards are young and not 

at their peak. 


BULGARIA 

DISCOVERY 

BULGARIAN OAK 

Bulgarian oak is tight-grained with a fine texture 

and soft, deep tannins. The chemical composition of 

this material is close to French oak from Limousin. 

The latest vintages of some wines using Bulgarian 

oak have shown great results, delivering dry and 

earth-driven red wines with moderate extraction 

from the oak without dominating the wine. 

SUNGURLARE WINERY 

VARIETAL RANGE 

Wine producers have been focussing on producing 

single varietal wines from international cultivars 

with a clear and specific organoleptic profile. 

Blends often act as signature wines for wineries. 

The ratio of international to local varietals is 70% 

to 30%. Bulgaria takes pride in producing serious 

wines from international varietals, which allow it 

to benchmark with other iterations worldwide. 

However, local grapes are slowly making their 

way into the very diverse Bulgarian wine industry. 

VILLA MELNIK WINERY 

DIMYAT 

The exact origins of the Dimyat grape are unknown. 

Some ampelographers believe that the vine is 

native to Bulgaria. The eighth most planted 

variety in the country, it represents nearly 5% of 

area under vine. Recent DNA research has shown 

it to be a crossing of Gouais Blanc – a parent to 

varieties such as Chardonnay, Aligoté, Auxerrois 

and Colombard – with another, unidentified 

grape variety. Dimyat produces fresh, lightly 

herbal, neutral wines with medium body and 

high acidity, acting as a backbone to the wines. 

Dimyat vineyards can be found on the Black Sea 

Coast and the Danube Plain. In terms of aroma, it 

shows a fruity bouquet with apple and lemon. The 

palate often has floral and herbaceous notes. Due 

to its high acidity, it is well suited to producing 

high-quality distillates. 

RED MISKET 

Despite the name, this is a white varietal with a 

pink skin. It is a late-ripening, cool climate grape 

covering over 7% of total vineyard area. It is not 

part of the Muscat family, although often as a wine 

it is blended with Muscat Ottonel. The Rose Valley 


47

BULGARIA 

DISCOVERY 

is its main home, and was named after the famous 

Rosa damascena (commonly known as Bulgarian 

rose or Damask rose) used for rose oil production. 

Red Misket wines have a clear pale-straw colour 

with green shades. When fermented dry, the variety 

develops rich floral aromas and hints of yellow and 

tropical fruits. There are also nuances of rose petals 

and sweet violet on the finish. Red Misket wines are 

medium to medium plus in body with exceptional 

balance and well-integrated acidity. 

THE VINEYARDS AT ORBELIA 

MELNIK 

There are two different clones of this variety: 

Broadleafed Melnik and Early Melnik, also 

known as Melnik 55, a crossing between the local 

Broadleafed Melnik and the French, early ripening 

Valdiguié. The first cultivar has become the 

signature grape varietal of the Struma River Valley, 

covering 2% of total vineyard acreage nationwide. 

When young, the wines offer under-ripe black fruit, 

spices, liquorice and very pronounced crushed black 

pepper, with in some places volcanic rocks and flint 

in the aromatic profile. In recent times “Blanc de 

Noir” styles have emerged, delivering outstanding 

results for traditional method sparkling wine. 

THE VINEYARDS AT KAPATOVO 

MAVRUD 

The name Mavrud probably originates from the 

Greek word “mavro” which means “black” and 

referred to the grape’s blueish-black skin colour 

Mavrud is an old, red grape variety that has 

been grown in Bulgaria since ancient times. The 

birthplace of Mavrud is the area around the city 

of Plovdiv in the Western part of the PGI Thracian 

Lowlands. Most Mavrud vineyards remain in 

its birthplace, followed by the Southern Black Sea 

Coast, Sakar, and the Struma Valley. It covers 2% 

of Bulgaria’s area under vine. Wines made from 

Mavrud vary in style, depending on their terroir 

and yields. Mavrud wines develop gracefully when 

aged in oak. Mavrud works very well in blends with 

Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah. 

RUBIN 

Rubin is a successful crossing between Syrah and 

Nebbiolo and was created in 1944 at the Pleven 


BULGARIA 

DISCOVERY 

Institute of Viticulture and Oenology. It is planted 

mainly in the Plovdiv area and in other parts of 

the Thracian Lowlands and the Danube Plain. 

The varietal is often described as a man wearing 

a suit and cowboy boots. As the name suggests, 

wines from Rubin have a deep ruby colour and 

typical aroma of berries, spices, and herbs. It 

can be enjoyed young and in the right terroir, can 

produce age-worthy wines. Wines from Rubin 

have recently gained considerable popularity in 

the Bulgarian market and abroad. Some Bulgarian 

wineries have recently produced blends 

of Mavrud and Rubin to express the synergy 

between these two cherished varietals. Rubin has 

not yet shown its full potential and is expected to 

become an emblematic varietal for Bulgaria in the 

coming years. 

THE VINEYARDS AT RUPEL WINERY 

EAST-EUROPEAN VARIETALS 

TAMIANKA 

Tamianka is one of the many synonyms for 

Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains. Its name is due to 

the distinctive aromas of incense and burnt tar. 

It offers promising results, even in the Southern 

regions of Bulgaria, but the Northern regions 

still offer an element of freshness and elegance. 

Off-dry styles are common. Tamianka wine shows 

layered aromas of ripe fruit, flowers, and spices. 

Single vineyard Tamianka wines from Sakar have 

served as a flagship wine for the aromatic whites 

of the country. 

THE VINEYARDS AT BOROVITZA 

GAMZA 

Gamza is the local name of Kadarka, an old 

Eastern European variety, more suited to cool 

climates to preserve its freshness. It is planted 

in Northern Bulgaria, mostly in the Danube Plain 

and shows at its best in low-cropping vineyards. 

It is among the most aromatic and vibrant of all 

of Bulgaria’s indigenous varietals. Its wines are 

multi-layered and sophisticated, with savoury, 

herbal and berry notes. They are medium bodied 

and tend to be supported by enough freshness 

to carry a long finish and exceptional ageing 

capa bilities. 


49

BULGARIA 

DISCOVERY 

RIKAT 

Rikat is the local name of the Rkatsiteli grape. 

Although not originally from Bulgaria, this is 

the most planted white grape in the country. It 

is mostly used in white wine blends, with single 

varietals quite rare. 

RUEN 

Ruen is an almost-extinct cross between 

Broadleafed Melnik and Cabernet Sauvignon. It 

was created in Pleven, Bulgaria in 1951 and officially 

released in 1964. Ruen has only been planted 

in the Struma Valley. 

THE VINEYARDS AT BOROVITZA 

BOUQUET 

Bouquet is a red variety selected in 1951 in an experimental 

vineyard by crossing Mavrud and Pinot Noir. 

PAMID 

Pamid was in the past the most planted grape in 

Bulgaria, consumed as a table grape and also used 

to make wine. It was planted on the entire Balkan 

Peninsula, under several different names. Wines 

from Pamid are light in colour and reasonably 

good for immediate consumption. Pamid is also 

suitable for blends and rosé wines. 

THE BRATANOV FAMILY - FROM RIGHT TO LEFT, HRISTO BRATANOV, TANYA AVRAMOVA 

AND DANIEL BRATANOV - THE OWNERS OF BRATANOV WINERY, SALES TEAM AND 

WINEMAKER (MARIA STOEVA, FAR LEFT) 

These are very exciting times for the country’s 

wine industry. We have selected a number of 

wineries that illustrate the different terroirdriven 

offerings and use of native grape varieties 

across Bulgaria. 

BOROVITZA 

If you are looking for an original Bulgarian wine, 

look no further than this winery in the village of 

Borovitza; its unique character borders on extravagance. 

The winery was established by two of the 

most capable and strong-willed Bulgarian winemakers, 

Ognyan Tsvetanov and Adriana Srebrinova. 

The major varieties grown are Chardonnay, 

Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Gamza, Cabernet 

Sauvignon and Merlot. Its top-rated label is the 

blended red, Dux – a truly inspiring wine. 


CHÂTEAU AVLI’S OWNER 

(IVO IVANOV, FOURTH FROM 

LEFT TO RIGHT) WITH HIS TEAM & 

FRIENDS AT DIVINO.TASTE 

IVO VARBANOV 

BRATANOV WINERY 

Bratanov Winery is a typical family enterprise – a dream come true for a father and his 

two sons. Over the years, their wines Tamianka Shishmanovo Vineyards, Chardonnay Sur 

Lie, Syrah Sans Barrique, as well as the premium wines from the 3-BLEND and the Private 

Reserve line, have become icons for the cellar. The Young Merlot from Shishmanovo has been 

a favourite of wine lovers, and has a noble cause in preserving the Imperial Eagle. 

CHÂTEAU AVLI 

Château Avli is located in the village of Glushnik, in the Sliven region. The varieties grown are 

Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Caladoc, Syrah, Muscat, Pinot Grigio, 

Gewürztraminer and Viognier. Château Avli continues to develop the Glushnik brand line, produced 

from its own vineyards, encapsulated by light, fruity and fresh white wines and rosé, as well as 

aromatic, full-bodied and mature red. 

IVO VARBANOV 

Ivo Varbanov is a classical concert pianist, living in London, who decided to grow a vineyard in 

his native country. In 2005, he purchased 13 ha of land, and from 2006 he started planting. Using 

organic agricultural practices, the vineyards naturally have small yields. Ivo Varbanov produces 

between 25,000 and 30,000 bottles depending on the vintage. His wines are exported and distributed 

in Europe, Asia, and the USA, and the main clients are either Michelin starred restaurants 

or wine connoisseurs. 


51

BULGARIA 

DISCOVERY 

THE VINEYARDS AT ROSALEA 

Varbanov is the first Bulgarian member of the 

Académie Internationale du Vin. 

KAPATOVO 

The first vintage wines under the Kapatovo label were 

launched in the Bulgarian market in 2009. Varieties 

grown include Chardonnay, Viognier, Sauvignon 

Blanc, Syrah, Marselan, Petit Verdot and Primitivo, 

as well as the recently planted Grenache, Mourvedre 

and Carignan. Kapatovo owns French barriques and 

produces limited series of white and red still wines 

in bottles and Tetra Pak packaging. Since the 2017 

vintage Kapatovo has also produced rosé wine. 

ORBELIA WINERY 

ORBELIA 

Orbelia owns 12 ha of vineyards in the Petrich region, 

planted with the Sandanski Misket, Broadleaved 

Melnik, Early Melnik, Rubin, Cabernet Sauvignon, 

Cabernet Franc and Merlot varieties. The winery 

predominantly produces still, dry wines, with a focus 

on the typical south-western varieties of Sandanski 

Misket and Melnik. The brands marketed are Orbelia 

and Via Aristotelis. 

ROSALEA 

Rosalea grows 8 hectares of vineyards on the gentle 

slopes of Sakar, not far from the town of Harmanli, 

with the grape varieties Cabernet Sauvignon, 

Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Chardonnay, Mavrud and 

Rubin. Rosalea’s team focuses on growing and 

fermenting other Bulgarian and Balkan varieties with 

perseverance and patience. 

RUPEL WINERY & VINEYARDS 

RUPEL WINERY 

The Rupel Winery was established in 2005 with the 

planting of the first vines. The winemaker is Spiro 

Stoyanov, from the town of Petrich. The winery 

specialises in white, rosé and dry red wines, with 

a particular focus on varietal wines, from the local 

Melnik 55, unique to the region, to several international 

varieties. Rupel offers tastings and visits. 

VILLA MELNIK 

Villa Melnik was ranked #39 among the Top 50 

World’s Best Vineyards in 2020. The family-owned 

estate is situated near the village of Harsovo, some 


THE VINEYARDS AT 

CHÂTEAU AVLI 

THE CHORBADZHIYSKI 

FAMILY, OWNERS OF 

ORBELIA WINERY 

ZAARA ESTATE 


53

THE ZIKATANOV FAMILY, 

OWNERS OF VILLA MELNIK 

ZLATEN ROZHEN 

6 km south of Melnik. The winery’s mission is to reveal the strength of the Melnik 

terroir. Villa Melnik’s wines trade under the brands of AplauZ, Bergulé, Orange Wine, 

Sweet Wine, Young&Crazy and Family Tradition. The winery provides excellent opportunities 

for wine tourism and is open to visitors every day. 

ZAARA ESTATE 

Zaara Estate, a family-owned winery with a hotel, restaurant and relaxation centre, 

opened in 2018. It is situated on the high hill above the Glavan in the Sakar Mountain. 

The driving force behind the wines is a Bulgarian-Italian tandem of winemakers – 

Slavey Paunov and Giovanni Colunatti; they seek a fine balance between the ancient 

local terroir and the latest winemaking practices. The estate also provides excellent 

opportunities for wine tourism; the complex has a special tasting room. 

ZLATEN ROZHEN 

The history of the cellar began in 2010 with the purchase of several small vineyards 

and the construction of a boutique hotel in the village of Rozhen. The villages 

of Kapatovo and Levunovo are home to 80 ha of owned vineyards planted with 

Sandanski Misket, Melnik 55, Melnishki Rubin, Shiroka Melnishka Loza, Syrah, 

Cabernet Franc, Sangiovese, Merlot, Nebbiolo, Petit Verdot and Mourvèdre. 


MERCIER VINE NURSERY 

FROM VINE ROOTS TO WINE 

GLASSES! 

BY SYLVAIN PATARD 

PHOTOGRAPHS: 

GILBERT & GAILLARD – 

GROUPE MERCIER 

Nurseries are probably one of the least publicised aspects of the wine industry. And 

yet, they play a pivotal role at the production end of the entire industry, providing 

winegrowers across the globe with international cultivars, massal selections and 

resistant vines. We travelled to Vix in the Vendée, the home of the Mercier vine 

nursery whose expertise spans over 130 years, to find out more about a profession 

that nurtures the entire wine industry. 

MIGUEL MERCIER AT THE 70-HECTARE FAMILY ESTATE IN VIX EN VENDÉE 

LÉGENDES 


55

DISCOVERY 

NURSERY 

A VINEYARD HOUSE WITH AN EVOCATIVE NAME FOR 

MERCIER - VILLA DES RAISINS 

The company’s current incumbents are brothers 

Guillaume, Frantz and Miguel, who 

took over the torch from their father Jean-Pierre. 

It was Jean-Pierre’s belief that healthy plants were 

essential and he therefore established the analysis 

laboratory that has since become a research and 

development department. The selection centre 

focuses on identifying ancient and new grape varieties. 

The company’s excellence in providing an 

extensive choice of varieties in prime condition 

has gradually enabled it to export to over 30 wine 

producing countries. 

A FAMILY BUSINESS TURNED 

INTERNATIONAL GROUP 

Mercier also has a 70-hectare vineyard producing 

wines that are all sold direct-to-consumer, most 

of them white wines made from Chenin, Sauvignon 

and Chardonnay. There are also rosés from 

Cabernet Franc and Gamay, along with reds from 

Cabernet though also Ragoûtant, the local name 

for Négrette. This 360° vision of the industry encompassing 

both activities is charmingly described 

by Miguel in an interview with him: “Our role 

goes from the vine roots to the wine glass”. Here’s 

what Miguel Mercier had to say to us. 

METICULOUS PREPARATION OF BOTH THE SOILS AND THE VINES AVOIDS ANY 

UNPLEASANT SURPRISES 

G&G: Let’s start with an important topic: 

massal selection, which is deemed to 

have many qualities. What is your vision of 

the technique and what are its advantages? 

Miguel Mercier: First of all, I should point out that 

it does not necessarily conflict with clonal selection. 

With massal selection, the major difference 

is that our aim is to reproduce a group of individuals 

and not one individual with a single genetic 

heritage. It is the epitome of diversity which we 

can further enhance by seeking out individuals of 

the same species but in very different places, not 

just in the same block. Then there is the health aspect. 

By propagating anything and everything, we 

began to spread viruses such as grapevine fanleaf 

virus – particularly in the post-war period – and 

considerably diminish the quality of vineyards, 

which in fact led to the solution of cloning. 


THE SAME TIME-HONOURED TECHNIQUES 

CHENIN BLANC, THE LOIRE VALLEY’S ICONIC 

GRAPE VARIETY 

PINOT NOIR VINES SOON READY FOR THEIR NEW LIFE 

In order to explore the massal aspect, fifteen years ago we launched a research programme 

in a wide variety of regions. Dubbed Unik, the selection groups up to 12 genotypes 

that are characteristic of their selection location, and express great diversity 

between them. To give you an idea of the scale of the task – we only began marketing 

them recently. 

You will find details of the programme, which is perfectly suited to present-day requirements 

particularly from a health perspective, on pages 59. 

In practical terms, what are the guidelines for planting the perfect vineyard? 

M. M.: The first rule you should comply with is to plan ahead. This brings us back to preparing 

the soils, but also placing an order with the vine nursery which should be done 

way in advance so as to avoid any delivery delays, for example. You should also analyse 

the soil in the relevant block in order to give it the care it needs. Then, you should 

plan the organic fertiliser that should be applied early enough so that it can become 


57

DISCOVERY 

NURSERY 

mineralised before the vines are planted. Obviously, the choice of grape variety 

should be suited to the soil and discussing this with the nursery operator beforehand 

can be worthwhile. Before planting, the soil structure should be fine-tuned, 

by breaking the lumps for example, which avoids creating air pockets. Then, of 

course you need to water the vines to seal them properly into the ground. 

Another essential rule is mechanical soil maintenance. Tillage is required to avoid 

the spread of plants and grasses that compete with vines and to aerate the soil. 

Finally, young vineyards need to be protected against fungal diseases like powdery 

and downy mildew, so plant protection is required for as long as possible. 

If from a very early age vines are affected, they will struggle to enter a new cycle 

the following spring. Vines with the strongest canes get off to a better start the 

following spring. The amount of work you put into a young vine will be rewarded 

one hundred times over subsequently. 

G&G: When is the best time to plant? 

M. M.: Vines can be planted from November onwards in regions where the winters 

are fairly mild, which for the past few years means almost everywhere. If not, 

from April-May to avoid frost. In Atlantic regions, like the damper South-West 

part of France, you can plant until June, but that’s really the very latest. 

MIGUEL MERCIER IN ONE OF THE PRODUCTION GREENHOUSES 


UNIK*: 

EXCEPTIONAL MASSAL SELECTIONS 

This ambitious programme was developed by Mercier to reach the highest standards and avoid virtually every risk. Through the Unik process, 

Novatech Sélection – the Mercier group’s in-house laboratory – provides extremely high quality massal selections with the ability to produce topflight, 

distinctive and complex wines that “engage the emotions, without any health or agricultural risks”. 

THREE SHINING EXAMPLES OF MASSAL SELECTION AS PART OF THE UNIK PROGRAMME: CABERNET FRANC, CHENIN AND MERLOT. THESE MAJOR 

VARIETIES FOR THE FRENCH AND GLOBAL WINE INDUSTRY ACCOUNT FOR HUNDREDS OF THOUSANDS OF HECTARES UNDER VINE 

The selection has always allowed winegrowing to make huge 

strides in terms of agronomic and winemaking precision. 

Massal selections – as mentioned above in the interview with 

Miguel Mercier – are extremely worthwhile and complement 

clonal selection. Obviously, they promote genetic diversity and 

counterbalance standardisation. However, it is important not 

to overlook the fact that not all selections produce better wines 

than the benchmark clones and, more importantly, some can 

lead to a resurgence in major health issues that were thought to 

have been eradicated. Neither is an old vine or one that is different 

from a clone necessarily suited to present-day growing 

conditions and agronomic and winemaking requirements. 

Miguel Mercier describes the contents of the Unik programme. 

“The first step is the survey: for each variety that joins the programme, 

we draw up specifications which precisely define the 

aims of the massal selection. Then our agricultural engineers 

tour the oldest vineyards looking for potentially eligible vines. 

The survey phase covers an extensive area, guaranteeing 

broad-ranging genetic diversity. Several hundreds of vines are 

selected during this first stage. 

Then come the health analyses – the staff at the Novatech analysis 

department conduct systematic PCR health tests on all the 

eligible vines. Only those that are virus-free continue through 

the selection process. 

The following stage is the agronomic assessment – the healthy 

eligible vines are propagated and planted on several assessment 

blocks which include one or more benchmark clones. The 

aim is to conduct a comparative agronomic evaluation to identify 

and characterise those that meet the objectives. 

The final step is the winemaking assessment – after the agronomic 

evaluation, the selected vines are used to make small batches 

of wines and professional experts of the particular variety assess 

the winemaking potential of the ongoing selection. 

Consequently, if, and only if, the initial objectives are attained does 

the massal selection join the Unik catalogue so that it can be propagated 

for winegrowers. Importantly, several years of research 

and assessments are required to create a Unik massal selection”. 

The advantages of this process: 

• It produces distinctive wines: from a vineyard block, a site. 

Massal selections increase the organoleptic complexity of the 

resultant wines. 

• It increases a winery’s genetic diversity: due to the large number 

of vines it comprises, massal selection increases diversity 

and helps preserve the shared genetic heritage. 

• It avoids all health and agricultural risks: the vines incorporated 

into the Unik programme are tested and guaranteed to 

be free of the main vine viruses. They have been the subject of 

several years of agronomic and winemaking assessments to 

confirm their characteristics are superior to the benchmark 

clone(s) and to the desired objectives. 

The programme pinpoints the challenges of renewing a vineyard 

and most importantly its choice of more reliable plant material 

that has the ability to provide top-flight organoleptic qualities. 

For the moment, nine varieties are available in the range: 

Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carménère, Chenin, Cot, 

Grenache Noir, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Sauvignon Blanc. 

* Unik selections are owned by Mercier Novatech and are propagated exclusively 

by licensed nursery operators. 

Don’t miss the next part of this feature report in our next Autumn 2023 issue: the key topic of resistant grape varieties 


59

SOAVE , WHERE TRADITION AND 

BIODIVERSITY ARE RISING TO THE 

CHALLENGES OF THE FUTURE 

BY FRANCESCO SAVERIO RUSSO 

PHOTOGRAPHS: 


The Soave vineyard hills were recently included among the Globally Important 

Agricultural Heritage Systems sites and are one of the main production areas for 

Italian white wine. Home to the appellation’s signature grape Garganega, along 

with Trebbiano di Soave, the region is unique in terms of tradition and biodiversity. 

We drill down on its specifics. 

FROM THE OUTSET, BERTANI HAS USED THE MOST ADVANCED PRODUCTION TECHNIQUES, BOTH IN THE VINEYARD AND THE WINERY, 

AT ALL OF ITS PROPERTIES, FROM VALPANTENA TO SOAVE, SHOWING TOTAL RESPECT FOR THE REGION 


ITALY 

APPELLATION 

CORTE ADAMI BOASTS SIZEABLE ACREAGE IN ONE OF SOAVE’S MOST IMPORTANT UGAS, CASTELCERINO 

The Soave DOC wine region is located in the province of Verona, below the Lessini 

mountains, on the border with the province of Vicenza. The area has ancient winegrowing 

traditions which were recognised in 1931 through the first defined area for 

the production of ‘Vino Tipico Soave’, on the basis of which the Soave Classico DOC 

appellation was created in 1968. 

Today, wines produced according to the regulations are Soave DOC, Soave Classico 

DOC, Soave Superiore DOCG, and Recioto di Soave DOCG: 

- Soave DOC is produced both as a still and sparkling wine (minimum 70% Garganega 

and 30% Trebbiano di Soave or Chardonnay. A maximum of 5% of other white grapes 

traditionally grown in the area is allowed.) 

- Soave Classico is the designation’s most historic area, located in the hills between 

Soave and Monteforte d’Alpone. The soil is mainly a basalt matrix with limestone 

outcrops, resulting in more complex wines. 

- Soave Colli Scaligeri is produced in the hills of the same name that form a sort of 

horseshoe around Soave Classico and represent a more recent wine region. 

- Soave Superiore DOCG is at the top of the quality pyramid, produced with 70% Garganega 

and 30% Trebbiano di Soave. It is grown across the Soave Classico and Soave 

Colli Scaligeri areas, although when certain requirements are met, Soave Doc grapes 

may also be classed as Superiore. Yields are reduced to 10 tons per hectare and the 

minimum alcohol content is increased to 12% for Superiore and 12.5% for Superiore 


61

TIME AND WOOD ARE IMPORTANT 

ALLIES FOR THE WINES PRODUCED 

BY BERTANI, BUT REGIONAL 

IDENTITY ALWAYS PREVAILS 

OVER STYLE 

Riserva. Superiore wines cannot be sold until April of the year following the harvest, 

and Riserva wines cannot be sold until November, or about a year after the harvest. 

The typical vine training system is the Veronese pergola system. Although this system 

has been superseded in many new plantings by the guyot espalier system, it is proving 

to be interesting in the fight against climate change. 

The Soave area embraces thirteen localities spread over four valleys: Val d’Alpone, Val 

Tramigna, Val d’Illasi and Val di Mezzane. A further geological and pedological division 

can be made between the volcanic hills, calcareous hills, plains of volcanic origin, and 

calcareous plains. 

Soave is one of the volcanic territories, and the soils are variable: they range from black 

soils to red soils richer in iron oxide, from very poor soils to very fertile soils, from 

basalts to clays with calcareous outcrops. 

Recent territorial zoning has led to the inclusion in the specifications of 33 UGAs 

(added geographical units): 

Castelcerino, Fittà, Tremenalto, Corte del Durlo, Costalunga, Menini, Castellaro, 

Brognoligo, Costeggiola, Campagnola, Sengialta, Colombara, Foscarino, Carbonare, 

Rugate, Coste, Monte Grande, Pressoni, Costalta, Casarsa, Pigno, Ponsara, Froscà, 

Volpare, Tenda, Croce, Zoppega, Ca’ del Vento, Broia, Paradiso, Monte di Colognola, 

Duello, Roncà - Monte Calvarina. 

These ‘Crus’ have become a way of showcasing the identity of the vineyards for many 

important wineries, including the following. 


THE BERTANI FAMILY HAVE MADE 

SIGNIFICANT INVESTMENTS IN 

THE VINEYARD AND THE WINERY 

IN ORDER TO BOTTLE AND 

EXPORT ITALIAN QUALITY WINE 

WORLDWIDE 

BERTANI 

Bertani, founded in 1857 in Verona by brothers Giovan Battista and Gaetano Bertani, 

represents a benchmark for production techniques, both for vine growing and winemaking, 

applied to all their estates from Valpantena to Soave. Underlying Bertani’s 

success is a profound knowledge and great respect for the land. Bertani has always 

placed the land at the centre of its project as a value and a prerequisite for all company 

business. The commitment has always been aimed at enhancing the characteristics of 

terroir to try and bring out its best qualities. Over the years, Bertani has been able to 

select the most prized and historically appropriate areas in the Veneto region, and for 

white grapes, this could only be in the Soave area. 

The company aims to respect the genetic heritage of the vineyards, eliminating herbicides, 

chemical fertilisers and systemic products to preserve biodiversity. It has a 

non-invasive winemaking approach which respects the identity of the wines. All this 

has been made possible by a passionate team that has full control of production. 

The company produces a Soave (which from 2022 will be Soave Classico), the Soave 

Original Vintage Edition – selected by the British King George VI as his coronation 

wine in 1937 – and the Soave Classico Sereole. Key markets are the USA, Canada, 

Germany and Japan. The Asia Pacific market is expanding, followed by Northern 

Europe. Potential new markets include Africa and the Middle East. 

VILLA ERBICE 

The company was founded by ‘grandfather’ Narciso in 1900. The name derives from 

the 17 th century villa where the company is based. Villa Erbice is a family-run business 


63


APPELLATION 

with the brothers Luca and Massimo (4th generation) and their father Silvio all playing 

a leading role. Each has their own area of responsibility: care of the vineyard, cellar, 

marketing and public relations, but they all work closely together to oversee the winery 

as a whole. The company produces wine entirely from its own 8 hectares of land in the 

Val di Mezzane, about 20 km east of Verona. 

Procedures in the vineyards are kept to a minimum in a bid to achieve an ideal and 

sustainable balance. Silvio, Luca and Massimo’s daily work is defined by dedication, 

constant research and experimentation both in the field and in the cellar, rediscovering 

and adapting long abandoned practices and techniques that fell into disuse in favour 

of modernity and innovation. 

The vineyards, flanked by a stream, boast mainly soils of alluvial origin which is 

strongly calcareous and very rich in organic substance (60% silt, 25% clay, 15% sand). 

Villa Erbice produces two types of Soave Superiore DOCG: 

Soave Superiore Docg (100% Garganega) is aged in stainless steel on fine lees for 10 

months before bottling. 

THE 17 TH CENTURY VILLA 

VILLA ERBICE’S CELLAR IS 

TRADITIONALLY LAID OUT 

THE HISTORY OF VILLA ERBICE DATES BACK MANY YEARS, WHEN GRANDFATHER NARCISO 

BEGAN PRODUCING WINE IN 1900 



APPELLATION 

Soave Superiore Docg - Panvinio (100% Garganega) 

is harvested slightly later than the first, then 

fermented in French oak barriques for 6 months and 

fermented for a further 4 months in stainless steel 

before bottling. 

Villa Erbice sells 30% of its wines locally in the 

province of Verona and exports 70% with the majority 

bound for Europe but some travelling to the USA 

and Asia. 

THE HISTORIC ESTATE OF ARBIZZANO DI NEGRAR 

TENUTA SANTA MARIA DI 

GAETANO BERTANI 

The company was established in Arbizzano di Negrar 

by brothers Giovanni and Guglielmo Bertani who, in 

memory of their father Gaetano Bertani, continue a 

project founded on meticulous and respectful work 

in the vineyard and a pioneering application of innovative 

practices including the use of the high-density, 

low-yield Guyot training system on native clones. 

The vineyards are SQNPI certified. Targeted tillage 

and sustainable vineyard practices are the basis of 

their production philosophy. Particular attention is 

paid to harvest time to ensure their wines have good 

acidity and structural balance. 

Soave is produced in Colognola ai Colli (Val d’Illasi), 

where some of the 20 hectares under vine are planted 

with Garganega grapes using the Veronese pergola 

training system. The soils are alluvial and composed 

of calcareous clay in the deepest layers and river 

stones, the result of fluvial deposits. The altitude is 

60-70 m above sea level. This is where Lepiga Soave 

Doc is produced, the result of 3 harvests carried 

out by hand, to collect grapes at 3 different stages 

of ripening: early harvest, harvest at peak ripeness 

and a final harvest of overripe fruit. In this way, 

elegant balance and greater aromatic complexity are 

achieved. The grapes are then fermented in stainless 

steel with batonnage on fine lees for about 90 days, 

before the 3 different wines are blended and bottled. 

Soave is exported to North America, Europe and 

Asia. The US market is the fastest growing and is 

showing renewed interest in quality Soave. Switzerland 

and Belgium are the most interesting European 

markets. In China, Soave is slowly beginning 

BROTHERS GIOVANNI AND GUGLIELMO BERTANI CONTINUE THE WORK OF THEIR FATHER 

GAETANO, WITH PROFOUND RESPECT AND GREAT CONSISTENCY 


65


APPELLATION 

to gain a foothold, while Japan remains a key market 

thanks to increased knowledge and pairings with 

local cuisine. 

FRANCESCO TESSARI IS SUPPORTED BY HIS FAMILY AND IN PARTICULAR 

BY HIS FATHER VALENTINO AND HIS UNCLE GIUSEPPE, WHO ARE PIVOTAL 

TO WORK IN THE VINEYARD 

I STEFANINI 

THE CELLAR AT I STEFANINI WAS FOUNDED AS RECENTLY AS 2003 AND IS LOCATED IN 

MONTEFORTE D’ALPONE 

A historic grape-growing family that became a wine 

producer, at the behest of oenologist Francesco 

Tessari (who was 20 years old at the time) in 2003, 

thanks to the family vineyards in Monteforte 

d’Alpone/Roncà. In the beginning, little was bottled, 

and most was sold in bulk. It was only after the crisis 

of 2008, when bulk sales began to collapse, that 

Francesco realised the importance of having his own 

brand and sales structure. 

To date, I Stefanini owns 18 hectares of vineyards: 3 

hectares in the classic zone - behind the winery - and 

15 hectares in the Soave Doc zone between Roncà and 

Peraro. In these 15 hectares, Garganega is the primary 

variety grown, but there is also some Durella, Chardonnay 

and Pinot Grigio. Production is currently 

around 120-130,000 bottles per year. 

The nickname ‘I stefanini’ dates back many years. 

The Tessari surname is widespread not only in the 

Val d’Alpone but also among Soave producers themselves. 

One of Francesco’s ancestors was a certain 

Stefano, a small man who was called Stefanino in 

the village because of his small stature. Over time, 

the whole family acquired the nickname Stefanini, 

hence the name of the winery. 

For 20 years now, Francesco has been supported 

in his work in the vineyard and cellar by his entire 

family: Dad Valentino, the agronomist; Mum 

Stefania, in charge of tastings; Uncle Giuseppe, who 

works in the vineyard, assisting Francesco and Valentino; 

Aunts Valeria, Maria Grazie and Luisa, who help 

with the grape harvest and during bottling; and wife 

Maristella, the sales manager for Italy. 

They produce 3 Soave wines: Soave Doc ‘Il Selese’; 

Soave Doc Classico ‘Monte de Toni’; and Soave Superiore 

Docg Classico ‘Monte di Fice’. The ‘Il Selese’ 

label (100% Garganega - 100,000 bottles) comes from 

vineyards (1987) in the foothills with silty-clayey soils. 

‘Monte de Toni’ (100% Garganega - 12,000 bottles) is 

produced from 2 hectares of red volcanic soil, rich in 


THE I CAMPI CELLAR BASED IN CELLOLE (VR) RECEIVES GRAPES 

PRODUCED IN THE COMPANY’S 14 HECTARES UNDER VINE THAT ARE 

DISTRIBUTED ACROSS THE MAJOR VERONA DESIGNATIONS 

YOUNG VERONA WINEMAKER FLAVIO PRÀ, WHO BOASTS 

NUMEROUS PRESTIGIOUS CONSULTANCIES WITH THE 

MOST IMPORTANT WINERIES IN VENETO AND ITALY, IS THE 

DRIVING FORCE BEHIND ‘I CAMPI’ 

iron oxide. The single vineyard is located in UGA Costalunga, just below Monte di Fice. The 

‘Monte di Fice’ label (Garganega 100% - 6,000 bottles) is produced on black, basalt volcanic 

soil. It is the top wine and the one with the greatest longevity. 

The most important market is undoubtedly the Québec Liquor Corporation where around 

40,000 bottles of Selese are shipped each year. I Stefanini also exports throughout Europe, 

to several states in America, Japan, and recently to Australia. A total of 19 locations generate 

exports representing 75% of sales. 

I CAMPI 

I Campi was established in 2006 from the vision and commitment of Flavio Prà, a young 

winemaker from Verona whose CV boasts numerous prestigious consultancies with the 

most important wineries in Veneto and Italy. The winery’s 14 hectares are spread over the 

major designations in the Verona area and the vineyards are rooted in deep soils of varied 

composition that yield wines showing great character. 

Flavio’s philosophy is to put the varietal and regional identity embodied in each vineyard first. 

‘Every wine wants its land: I have searched for the land’. This phrase is the foundation and 

pillar of the company’s vision, i.e. the need to respect and enhance the land, starting with 

sustainable, non-invasive vineyard management and carefully chosen environmentally-friendly 

materials and processes throughout the production cycle. 

I Campi produces two Soave wines: Soave DOC Campo Base (100% Garganega) from both 

volcanic and calcareous soils; Soave DOC Classico Campo Vulcano (85% Garganega and 15% 

Trebbiano di Soave), a cru from volcanic soil only. Both are aged only in stainless steel but 

the Campo Base is a vintage wine, while the Campo Vulcano is more suited to ageing. The 

company produces 150,000 bottles and exports 75% to north-central Europe, North America, 


67


APPELLATION 

THEIR FATHER ANGELO IS FOLLOWING IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF HIS 

GRANDFATHER, GAETANO ADAMI, THE FOUNDER OF THE WINEGROWING 

BUSINESS 

South-East Asia and Oceania, in an attempt to raise 

awareness of the designation in Italy and worldwide. 

CORTE ADAMI 

IN THE NEW CORTE ADAMI CELLAR IN SOAVE, THE ENTIRE WINEMAKING PROCESS IS 

CARRIED OUT WITH THE AIM OF PRESERVING THE INTEGRITY OF THE FRUIT’S IDENTITY 

Corte Adami, now in its first generation of winemakers 

and third generation of winegrowers, began 

producing Soave and Valpolicella wines in 2004 on 

their 40 hectares of land. Their key objective is to 

produce great wines which are capable of expressing 

and celebrating the regional qualities and heritage of 

the native grapes in the Veronese area. 

The Adami family’s children are now involved in the 

business with Andrea as the wine producer, Martina 

as the sales manager and Giulia as the administration 

manager, while Stefano is currently completing his 

oenology studies. Their father Angelo is following in 

the footsteps of his grandfather, Adami Gaetano, the 

founder of the winegrowing business. 

For Corte Adami, the starting point in the production 

of great wines lies in the vineyards. Old vines offer a 

great mirror to the terroir and can provide elegance 

and ageability in a natural way. The vineyards are 

located in one of the historic Cru of the Soave area: 

Castelcerino, at an altitude of 350 metres above sea 

level. The area is characterised by calcareous soil with 

volcanic rocks, sometimes tuffaceous, significant 

diurnal shift and mild temperatures even during 

summer evenings. The combination of these factors 

produces Soave wines with great minerality, incredible 

fragrance, acidity and elegance, with a rich 

bouquet of fruity and floral notes. 

Corte Adami produces a Soave DOC Classico (Uga 

Castelcerino) and a Soave Superiore DOCG (Uga 

Castelcerino). Its key markets for Soave are Japan 

and various European markets (with Germany and 

Belgium in first place). 

CADIS 1898 

Cadis 1898 was founded a few months ago. “The 

name may be new but the soul remains the same 

one which has guided us for 125 years in our quest to 

achieve the best results for the 2,000 members of our 

co-operative and for all those customers who have 



APPELLATION 

been buying our bottles for years,” explains General 

Manager Wolfgang Raifer. Cadis 1898 is the acronym 

formed by the initials of the historic name Cantina 

di Soave, alongside the year when the group was 

founded: a combination of modernity and history in 

a broad-ranging regional project. The name Cadis 

1898 covers four main wineries: Cantina di Soave, 

Cantina di Montecchia, Cantina di Illasi and Terre 

al Lago. Commercially available wines include Soave 

branded Cantina di Soave, Valpolicella from Cantina 

di Illasi, Lessini Durello from Cantina di Montecchia 

di Crosara and Bardolino and Custoza from Terre al 

Lago. “The objective is to give a precise identity to 

each of our labels and their home regions, while at 

the same time pursuing what has always been our 

mission: to put the Scaligera designations and their 

regions on the map,” says Raifer. 

Cadis 1898’s philosophy involves a supply chain 

which goes from the grape to the bottle. Investments 

in recent years have made it possible to 

monitor the grapes from the vineyard to the shelf. 

Through Cantina di Soave, Cadis 1898 owns 48% 

of the vineyards in the Soave Doc production area 

and 43% of Soave Classico. Among the products that 

stand out are the Soave Classico Doc ‘cru/uga’ ‘Fittà’, 

the Soave Classico Doc ‘cru/uga’ ‘Castelcerino’ and 

the Soave Classico Doc ‘San Lorenzo’, dedicated to 

the patron saint of the town of Soave. There is also a 

Soave Doc, an organic Soave Doc, as well as the sweet 

version Recioto di Soave Classico Docg. 

Cadis 1898 has a strong presence in the domestic 

market in terms of revenue (66%) but continues to 

expand abroad. Here the key markets are Germany, 

England and northern Europe. 

VINEYARDS IN THE ADDED GEOGRAPHICAL UNIT ‘CASTELCERINO’ WHERE CADIS 1898 

PRODUCES ONE OF ITS SOAVE DOC WINES 

BORGO ROCCA SVEVA’S EXPERIMENTAL VINEYARD CLOSE TO THE CASTLE OF SOAVE 

WHICH IS MANAGED BY CADIS 

In terms of the future, the Soave appellation certainly 

enjoys good growth, especially abroad, where it is 

increasingly appreciated. Soave has not traditionally 

been very popular in terms of quality, but the suitability 

of the terroir, sustainability goals and renewed 

technical awareness in the vineyard and cellar are 

raising the bar. The region is not shying away from 

the challenges of the future. It can rely on biodiversity 

and a more positive response to climate change 

than in other areas, both in terms of soil and climate 

conditions and grape varieties. 


69

SOUTH AFRICA CELEBRATES 

ITS SUCCESS WITH 

SAUVIGNON BLANC 

BY SAMARIE SMITH-MELETIOU 

DIPWSET 

PHOTOGRAPHS: 


A global consumer lauds Sauvignon Blanc, and South Africa excels without 

regional constraints. The myriad styles produced here attest to its potential and 

exceptional ageability as passionate producers embrace the contrasting landscapes 

to make mystifying to boastfully aromatic wines with a burgeoning following 

from both ends. Hence, Sauvignon Blanc remains the country’s top-selling and 

most exported cultivar. 

FIFTH-GENERATION WINEMAKER DAVID NIEUWOUDT LEADS A PASSIONATE TEAM TO PRODUCE CHARACTERFUL SAUVIGNON 

BLANC FROM THEIR ELIM COASTAL VINEYARDS AND THEIR HIGH-LYING VINEYARDS IN THE CEDERBERG 


SOUTH AFRICA 

GRAPE 

VISITORS TO DE GRENDEL IN THE DURBANVILLE WINE VALLEY CAN ENJOY VISTAS OF TABLE MOUNTAIN OR EXPERIENCE THE FARM’S NATURAL 

ENVIRONMENT AND CONSERVATION EFFORTS ON GUIDED FARM TOURS 

Pinning global Sauvignon Blanc plantings on a world map demonstrates its cunning 

demeanour, revealing a decorated tapestry across continents. It oscillates between 

elegant Loire wines, profound examples from Bordeaux and pungent styles from New 

Zealand. Italy, Chile, America, and Australia have also clinched some of its luminescent 

glory, with a country like Hungary following in the sweet steps of Sauternes. 

South African winegrowers bask in its popularity as plantings spread from the 

Northern Cape and meander across all corners of the Western Cape like Robertson, 

Stellenbosch and the Breedekloof. From there, it gravitates toward the coast and cool 

slopes of undulated valleys (Cape Town and Cape South Coast) and climbs in altitude 

in the continental Cederberg. 

BLENDING REGIONS TO BLENDING 40 COMPONENTS 

ON ONE FARM 

Undissuaded by heat, drought, and wind, Sauvignon stalwarts are applauded for their 

ingenuity. Owner winemaker from Aslina Wines, Ntsiki Biyela, tells how blending 

contrasting terroirs imbues Sauvignon Blanc with character, bringing more awareness 

to the country’s success with the variety. Growing up in Mahlabathini, a rural village 

in KwaZulu-Natal far removed from the Winelands, didn’t curb this black female’s 

pioneering zest in pursuing a winemaking career. 

«When I started making Sauvignon Blanc, I aimed for a tropical style, focusing on 

Stellenbosch fruit, blended with a smaller Elgin proportion to elevate it with a brush 

of freshness. I quickly learned how complexity is achievable through regional blending, 


71

IN 2016, NTSIKI BIYELA 

ESTABLISHED ASLINA WINES, 

NAMING IT AFTER THE WOMAN 

WHO INSPIRED HER TO EMBRACE 

HER TALENTS AND DREAMS, 

HER GRANDMOTHER 

promoting the country and its intricate stories of place. Consumers are fascinated by South Africa 

and even more fulfilled having tasted the wines.» 

Its complex expression of passionfruit and capsicum awarded the Aslina Sauvignon Blanc 2021 

91 points by Gilbert & Gaillard, setting the bar for an incredible array of South African Sauvignon 

Blanc to taste. 

It was Klein Constantia concluding Gilbert & Gaillard’s Sauvignon Blanc tasting with a hattrick 

performance: Klein Constantia Pierre 2022 Sauvignon Blanc 2022 (90 points), Beau Constantia 

2022 reeling in double gold (92) and the older, graceful Klein Constantia Metis 2018 crowned the top 

performer with 95 points. 

Jacqueline Harris is not only the sales and marketing manager speaking on behalf of the team but an 

avid Sauvignon Blanc ambassador. 

«Our Sauvignon Blanc is an extension of our terroir and philosophy. Each vintage is built on the 

lessons learned from previous vintages. Consistent quality flows from a commitment to precision, 

understanding vineyard needs, maximising applications of organic products and biodynamic preparations 

and principles, minimising conventional methods and products.» 

Sauvignon Blanc on their cool Constantia farm grows on decomposed granite and Table Mountain 

sandstone, with 40 separate parcels and 13 clones utilised to produce an average of 4.4 tons/hectare. 

SAUVIGNON BLANC SOUTH AFRICA 

The first Sauvignon Blanc vines date back to 1880 at Groot Constantia, and the oldest existing Sauvignon 

Blanc vineyard today is a certified heritage vineyard, planted at Spice Route’s Klein Amoskuil in 


SOUTH AFRICA 

GRAPE 

the Swartland in 1965. Through changing trends and 

new grape varieties gracing the scene, it retained its 

foothold, and with 9,987 hectares, it is the country’s 

second-most planted grape after plantings increased 

threefold between 1990 and 2022. In 2022, 14.3m 

litres were sold in the domestic market, and 67.7m 

litres were exported, packaged (18.7m litres) and bulk 

(49m litres). 

MATT DAY HAS BEEN THE WINEMAKER AT KLEIN CONSTANTIA SINCE 2012, AND CRAIG 

HARRIS HAS MANAGED THE VINEYARDS SINCE 2013 - A FORMIDABLE TEAM 

SAUVIGNON’S TERROIR TALE 

While Stellenbosch continues producing stellar 

Sauvignon Blanc with the likes of Thelema Sauvignon 

Blanc 2022 (90) and Zevenwacht Sauvignon 

Blanc 2022 (93), it now shares the limelight with 

newer frontiers. 

Annually, tourists swarm to Cape Agulhas, wanting 

to visit the most southern tip of Africa, their adventurous 

itineraries quenching their thirst for whale 

watching, shark diving, and yes, bespoke Sauvignon 

Blanc. 

En route, Lomond’s Sauvignon Blanc vineyards overlook 

Dyer Island, a playground for marine animals; 

while on land, the winemaker Hannes Meyer plays to 

his strengths, producing distinctive Sauvignon Blanc 

from vines growing in sandy, weathered soils. 

«It’s incredible how Sauvignon effortlessly expresses 

its terroir. White stone fruit is a marker for this area 

with natural acidities and a super low pH ensuring 

great ageing potential,» says Meyer. 

Their vineyards benefit from great diurnal temperature 

ranges, and the wines’ character also echoes 

something of this marine spectacle with a noticeable 

thread of salinity. Both the Lomond Sauvignon Blanc 

2023 (91) and the Lomond Pincushion (90) fared well, 

commended for their classic and expressive styles. 

Farther south, Elim is the coldest wine region in 

the country, where a combination of ferricrete, 

chalk and koffieklip creates lighter, grey soils. It is 

home to Strandveld Vineyards, where cellarmaster 

Conrad Vlok crafts distinctive wines from marginal 

vineyards. In 2022, he was awarded the Dinersclub 

SA Winemaker of the Year in recognition of the 

Strandveld Pofadderbos Sauvignon Blanc 2021, the 

2022 vintage receiving double gold (92) from Gilbert 

& Gaillard. 

WINEMAKER HANNES MEYER IS IN HIS ELEMENT MAKING SAUVIGNON BLANC AT LOMOND, 

SITUATED NEAR CAPE AGULHAS, AGAINST THE SLOPES OF BEN LOMOND MOUNTAIN AND 

ITS UNIQUE GEOLOGICAL FORMATIONS AND ARRAY OF SOIL TYPES 


73

SOUTH AFRICA 

GRAPE 

«Our vineyards are seven to ten kilometres from the sea, « Vlok says, an avid fisherman who proudly serves 

his wines with his catch. 

«Sauvignon loves the cool weather brought on by winds in the growing season. From any side, prevailing 

winds are always sea winds cooling the vineyards and contributing to low yields in the flowering season. We 

make the best wines when crops are at most 3.5 tons per hectare. Stressful conditions, the salty wind and 

brackish water add to the wines’ mineral quality.» 

They say you don’t buy land in Elim; you buy wind, banters David Nieuwoudt, owner and fifth generation at 

Cederberg Wines and a member of the Cape Winemakers Guild. 

He considers Elim, home to his Wild Ferment and Ghostcorner Sauvignon Blancs 2022 (92), «the Cape’s 

best-kept secret.» 

«It is an absolute joy selling this wine internationally. Besides its maritime character, there is a brightness 

to these wines.» 

Approximately 350km inland from here at 1,100m above sea level, his Cederberg vineyards are the highest in 

the country. Where fynbos meets the edge of the Succulent Karoo biome, this 5,500ha farm boasts 74 ha under 

vine, presenting a completely different style of wine; the Cederberg Sauvignon Blanc 2022 scored 91 points. 

«Sauvignon can only be influenced by heat or rain in South Africa. Cederberg is the only cool continental area; 

the vineyards are super site-specific.» 

The cool southeastern-facing slopes are predominantly clay and shale, picked later for more aromatic tropical 

flavours adding palate weight. Sandstone components are picked earlier, showing a more mineral, steely edge. 

«Wind contributes to the cooling effect here, and vineyard management remains crucial. We are also in no 

rush to release our wines early like many others, so it spends adequate time on the fermentation lees.» 

Nieuwoudt’s experience with altitude vineyards led to a partnership with Julio Bouchon from Chile where 

they make the Longaví Sauvignon Blanc in the Maule Valley, at the foot of the Andes mountains. 

POFADDERBOS VINEYARDS OVERLOOKING THE FARM 


STRANDVELD WINEMAKER, CONRAD VLOK, AT THE 

POFADDERBOS VINEYARD 

MORGAN STEYN JOINED CHARLES HOPKINS, A MEMBER OF THE CAPE WINEMAKERS 

GUILD, AT DE GRENDEL AS A PART OF THE GUILD’S PROTÉGÉ MENTORING 

PROGRAMME. HE WAS SINCE APPOINTED AS WINEMAKER 

Anyone who has visited South Africa and loves the outdoors has made an acquaintance with its flower 

kingdom and is in awe of how quickly the vegetation can change over short distances. For an aromatic 

variety that doesn’t need a lot of cellar intervention, it often embodies something of this flora, adding a 

fresh, savoury twist. 

Bartho Eksteen (Bartho Eksteen Wine Estate) and Charles Hopkins (cellar master at De Grendel Wine 

Estate) are CWG members whose Sauvignon Blancs regularly come under the hammer at the annual CWG 

Auction where collectors worldwide want to get their hands on these wines. 

Eksteen chose Hermanus as his Sauvignon Blanc playground and shoots straight from the shoulder to 

defend it. 

«People can say what they want, Sauvignon wants to be as close to the ocean as possible unless you have 

the altitude advantage like Cederberg.» 

Hopkins cut his teeth on Sauvignon Blanc some 30 years ago and agrees with Thys Louw, proprietor and 

winemaker at Diemersdal, that they have not seen any pertinent influences from climate change in the 

Durbanville Wine Valley. 

«We are like a small Peninsula,» says Hopkins, looking at a clear vista of Table Mountain from their tasting 

room, «and by receiving cool air from both sides, we may have somewhat sidestepped significant changes.» 

According to Louw, it was mainly due to its cool night-time temperatures that made them plant Sauvignon 

Blanc here in the first place. 

«By the end of May 2023, before mid-winter, we’ve already had 40% of our annual rain, the same as 40 years 

ago,» says Louw, who now produces nine different Sauvignon Blancs, a tenth in conjunction with Ben 

Glover Family Vineyards in Marlborough. 


75

SOUTH AFRICA 

GRAPE 

Morgan Steyn started working with Hopkins as part of the CWG’s Protege Programme in 2019 and was later 

appointed winemaker. As Durbanville already hosts the annual Season Of Sauvignon festival, it was time for a 

collective strategy to showcase this variety. In 2022, 13 wineries in the valley collaborated for the maiden vintage 

of Durbanville Sauvignon Blanc, and Steyn was responsible for blending the diverse components. 

«We made the second vintage this year. Each producer contributed a component true to their vineyards and 

winemaking philosophy which was then blended to represent the diversity of the whole valley.» 

Elgin is another area nudging the ocean, and albeit on a plateau surrounded by mountains, this cool appellation 

forms part of the Cape South Coast region, home to Iona. The farm is 420m above sea-level and the Iona Wild 

Ferment 2022 had the tasting panel on the edges of their seats with its intensity and staying power (93). 

Winemaker Werner Muller proudly shares how confident they are about Iona’s unique style. 

«The diversity in Elgin is phenomenal. Our Sauvignon grows on sandstone and lighter soils. Some vineyards 

are older than 20 years, adding palate weight, and younger vineyards contribute to freshness. We have a long 

growing season, and the long hanging time forms the basis for more apple and pear aromas retaining the natural 

acidity and low pH that adds a defining saline quality. 

IONA 420M ABOVE SEA LEVEL, HIGH ABOVE THE PICTURESQUE ELGIN VALLEY, SURROUNDED BY THE KOGELBERG 

NATURE RESERVE AND OVERLOOKING THE ATLANTIC OCEAN IN THE SOUTH 


SOUTH AFRICA 

GRAPE 

IN THE CELLAR 

EARLY HARVESTING AT KLEIN CONSTANTIA 

Sauvignon Blanc doesn’t need a lot of intervention in 

the cellar if the vineyards are allowed to revel in the 

best growing environments. Yet, the judicious use of 

oak has introduced a profound chapter. 

Eksteen: «We learned that Sauvignon is unforgiving 

with inexact oak regimes, and we had to pay studious 

attention to coopers, craftmanship and toasting 

intensities. It has an affinity with large, older barrels 

for the best integration.» 

While some producers are fishing or exploring the 

caves of the Cederberg mountains, Hermanus is 

known for its abalone industry, and the pearly shell 

of this protected species was the inspiration behind 

Eksteen’s labels. Proudly Afrikaans speaking, his 

wines are some of the few bearing Afrikaans names: 

Bartho Eksteen Houtskool 2021 and Bartho Eksteen 

Meester 2022 rewarded 91 points, respectively. 

«From the start, our Sauvignon breezed through 

fermentation without being inoculated, and year 

after year, we saw a golden thread of minerality, 

creaminess and integration. It fascinated me.» 

A sample inside one of the barrels was analysed, 

and a unique flora was discovered, likely to be the 

impetus of their consistent style in the Hemel-en- 

Aarde-Valley. 

«We use whole bunches, a long gradual cycle, and 

don’t wait for the wine to settle; it goes straight to the 

barrel where it ferments wild, creating its magic.» 

Hopkins regards the late Ross Gower as the father of 

Sauvignon Blanc in South Africa, who revolutionised 

it in the 80s with riper pickings and skin contact. 

«At that time, French consultants were brought out to 

advise us on how to add a broader mid-palate. They 

recommended dirtier ferments, leaving more solids 

in the wine to add dimension and depth. It worked.» 

Nieuwoudt concurs about whole bunches, comparing 

his Sauvignon components to 28 temperamental 

kids that require scholarly attention. 

«It is vital to ferment cold in the barrel at 14 degrees, 

which is much easier to do naturally with Chenin 

Blanc and Chardonnay that is not aromatic. 

Wild ferments produce fatter wines that need 

bottle maturation before reaching their ultimate 

drinking pleasure.» 

BARTHO EKSTEEN, A MEMBER OF THE CAPE WINEMAKERS GUILD, 

HAS MADE SAUVIGNON BLANC A FOCUS IN HIS CAREER 


77

SOUTH AFRICA 

GRAPE 

A MYRIAD OF STYLES 

CEDERBERG FARMS SUSTAINABLY, AND BECAUSE THIS ISOLATED AREA IS 

VIRUS-FREE AND HAS MINIMAL DISEASE, THERE’S LITTLE TO NO CHEMICAL 

INTERVENTION 

FORMERLY ATTAQUASKLOOF, THIS PICTURESQUE LOCATION OF BARTHO 

EKSTEEN WINES IS SITUATED 4KM FROM THE ATLANTIC OCEAN, NEAR THE 

BEAUTIFUL COASTAL TOWN OF HERMANUS IN THE WALKER BAY WINE REGION 

As guidance, Sauvignon Blanc South Africa (SBSA) 

has defined four major styles: tropical and yellow 

fruit flavours; spicy and herbaceous; flinty and 

mineral; and lime, green melon, and grapefruit. 

Hopkins’s insatiable passion for the grape has led 

to numerous workshops for industry members and 

wine writers to discuss the chemistry that gives rise 

to these styles. 

«First, you have ester-driven styles where cold 

fermentation evokes delightful jasmine, pear and 

tea aromas. These aromas are volatile and fade after 

eight months. Secondly, you have thiols, identifiable 

by aromas of grenadilla, citrus and blackcurrant. 

Your third style hails from specific regions 

like Darling, Durbanville, Constantia, and Elgin, 

embracing the natural occurrence of methoxypyrazines 

(reminiscent of grass and green herbs). 

Fourthly is the wooded style category, which is becoming 

increasingly important and made in smaller 

volumes. Lastly, winemakers embrace organic and 

biodynamic practices with more quirky and phenolic 

wines making headway.» 

For Nieuwoudt, winemakers need to enjoy this 

canvas of opportunities as long as the wines retain 

their liveliness with a balance between pyrazines and 

fleshier notes of grenadilla, with a salty, mineral core 

balanced by richer nuances. 

«Because Sauvignon Blanc is so descriptive, consumers 

know what to expect. It will remain popular as 

long as it boosts consumer confidence.» 

AGE, PRICE AND MARKET 

PERCEPTION 

Can Sauvignon Blanc age? Unequivocally, reckons 

Eksteen. 

«France has the advantage of the oldest Sauvignon 

Blanc heritage. So much so that Sancerre, Pouilly-Fumé 

and Bordeaux speak for themselves without 

stating Sauvignon Blanc on the label. It has been my 

prerogative to experiment with and improve Sauvignon 

and address its ageing potential.» 

Also, a recipient of the title of Diners Club SA 


SAUVIGNON BLANC SOUTH 

AFRICA (SBSA) IS COMMITTED 

TO PROMOTING THE VARIETY’S 

DIVERSITY AND EXCELLENCE IN 

SOUTH AFRICA 

Winemaker of the Year (2010) with a Sauvignon Blanc, Tim Atkin MW included 

his 2013 Sauvignon Blanc in an article regarding wooded Sauvignon Blancs of the 

world, outscoring eminent names such as Didier Dagueneau, Alphonse Mellot and 

Henri Bourgeois. 

But why are many Sauvignon Blanc consumers not embracing older wines? 

Eksteen: «Sauvignon can be its own worst enemy because of its versatility. It can 

produce delicious young wines, released early at lower prices, to fine wines with a 

heftier price tag and exceptional ageing potential. However, greater marketing efforts 

are needed to inform consumers of its premium potential, and my son, Pieter Willem, 

and I, take advantage of every opportunity to do so.» 

Louw explains that offering many styles of Sauvignon Blanc in their tasting room in 

Durbanville, with a restaurant to explore their wine with food, is helping the consumer 

over this hurdle. But, at the same time, big supermarkets, locally and internationally, 

cannot stay ahead as the quality improves year on year. 

«We need to promote the Cape and its extraordinary sense of place,» says Werner 

Muller, advocating Iona’s cool climate in Elgin and opening a 2001 vintage to prove 

his point. A wine from the other side of the Cape Peninsula, Cape Point Reserve (92) 

reflects the same, affirming that no Sauvignon Blanc vine is planted in vain. 


79

LALANDE-DE-POMEROL, 

LIBOURNE’S WELL-GUARDED 

SECRET 

BY CAMILLE BERNARD 

PHOTOGRAPHS: 


QUENTIN SALINIER 

Founded just over 25 years ago in response to increased demand for Rioja wines 

internationally, family-run bodega Criadores de Rioja has always kept a watchful 

eye on overseas markets. Its wines encapsulate a fusion of tradition and modernity 

and the winery has successfully kept abreast of changing demand and consumer 

patterns. With its appeal continuing to extend way beyond national borders, it 

offers a fine illustration of the vitality of this famous Spanish appellation and its 

ability to reinvent itself. 

CHÂTEAU BELLES GRAVES SURROUNDED BY ITS VINEYARDS 


LIBOURNAIS 

APPELLATION 

IRON OXIDE SOILS IN THE VINEYARDS OF LALANDE-DE-POMEROL 

treasure hidden by its neighbouring appellation, Lalande-de-Pomerol shows stunning 

A potential and a unique rendition of Merlot. Despite its proximity to the illustrious 

Pomerol appellation, it is often sidelined on Bordeaux’s wine scene. This does not stop the 

winegrowers who put their heart and soul into growing vines here, however, from crafting 

wines that display undeniable quality. We spoke to some of them to find out more. 

Thirty kilometres from Bordeaux, in the wine region of Libourne, the Lalande-de-Pomerol 

appellation extends over 1,100 hectares under vine divided between the namesake village 

and Néac. A ‘satellite’ of the prestigious Pomerol appellation, with only the river Barbanne 

separating the two, it covers soils which, like its illustrious neighbour, encompass gravel, 

clay and sand. 

Basking in a temperate ocean climate, these vineyard sites produce wines displaying elegant 

classicism, which are as delicate as they are age-worthy. 

Although these delicious pours compare favourably with those produced by their more 

renowned neighbour, they nevertheless struggle to shine out from behind its shadows. 

Their low-key profile makes them an appellation that deserves to be (re)discovered without 

further ado, if only for the pleasure of savouring wines produced by passionate, committed 

winegrowers who redouble their efforts to promote their vineyards. 

To gauge this, we met some of them who are not only fully aware of their appellation’s 

potential, but also aspire to a level of recognition commensurate with their commitment 

and their winegrowing expertise. Join us on a journey to the heart of a wine region with an 

assertive personality, and the cradle of wines which, once discovered, are never forgotten. 


81

XAVIER PITON, OWNER OF 

CHÂTEAU BELLES GRAVES AND 

CHAIRMAN OF THE LALANDE- 

DE-POMEROL PRODUCERS’ 

ORGANISATION 

CHÂTEAU BELLES GRAVES: 

“THE MOST STABLE RIGHT BANK APPELLATION 

FOR THE PAST 20 YEARS” 

“Château Belles Graves is a family-run estate bought by my grandfather in 1938”, 

explains current owner Xavier Piton, who joined the winery in 1988. He “gradually 

extended the property to its current 17 hectares” and now farms the vineyards “using 

sustainable techniques strongly inspired by organic and biodynamic farming”. 

Because he chooses not to impose any constraints but rather to leave himself “as 

many options as possible to seek out the most appropriate solution as and when, and 

the most suitable for people”, Piton “accompanies” his vineyards whilst being mindful 

to “let them express themselves”. And in an area where vines have been grown since 

the 15th century, he draws the quintessential qualities from a vineyard where the 

soils are clay-gravel in places and flint-dominant gravel in others, with occasionally 

some clay-silt. Depending on the vintage, these geological nuances produce up to 

three Lalande-de-Pomerol labels. 

The wines are deliberately very different from each other. “The wines are the result of 

the constant conversations we have with our private customers and importers, which 

means we can produce wines that people enjoy”. This ability to “keep our finger on 

the pulse” also promotes “excellent customer loyalty”. In fact, Piton admits that, in 

addition to the marketing skills of his farm, the strength of the entire appellation 

lies in “the very people-centric approach of the most stable Right Bank appellation 

of the past 20 years, despite the challenges involved in raising awareness levels due 

to the small volumes it produces”. 


LIBOURNAIS 

APPELLATION 

CHÂTEAU LA PETITE DUCHESSE: 

“WE HAVE NEVER STRUGGLED 

TO SELL LALANDE-DE-POMEROL 

WINES” 

THE VINEYARDS AT CHÂTEAU LA PETITE DUCHESSE 

The third-generation representative of a family of 

winegrowers located on Bordeaux’s Right Bank, 

Lucie Champagne heads up a 55-hectare property, 

“including 15 hectares in the Lalande-de-Pomerol 

appellation area”. On top of the 20-hectare vineyard 

that used to belong to her grandfather and only 

produced Bordeaux, newer additions include “8 

hectares belonging to the Libourne-Montagne 

viticulture college which we bought in 2008”. Lucie 

knows the vineyard well because she did practical 

work there as a college student. Château La Petite 

Duchesse focuses on farming 15 hectares of vines 

owned by the Champagne family in the AOC 

Lalande-de-Pomerol area. 

The family had to wait until 2010 to buy a winery 

and make its wines under the appellation because 

“it was forbidden to produce AOC Lalande wines 

alongside AOC Bordeaux”. However, it says, “we 

have never struggled to sell Lalande-de-Pomerol 

wines even though we are relative newcomers to 

the appellation”. 

The comment is borne out by Lucie’s assertion that 

she does not have “a single bottle of Lalande to sell 

starting in August”. Admittedly, she says, the sales 

price of the wines has not changed since they began 

selling them, but their price tag alone is not the only 

reason for their marketing success. With a strong 

local rooting, spearheaded by “a sales outlet we have 

owned and run in Saint-Médard for over 40 years”, 

the Champagne family’s wines “resonate extremely 

well with private customers”. 

THE TASTING ROOM AT CHÂTEAU CASTEL VIAUD 

CHÂTEAU CASTEL VIAUD: 

“THE WINES RESONATE VERY 

WELL WITH PRIVATE CUSTOMERS” 

“The history of Château Castel Viaud dates back 

to the post-war period when my grandfather, 

after being demobilised, began farming vineyards 

alongside the land on which he farmed a variety 


83

LIBOURNAIS 

APPELLATION 

THE BARREL CELLAR AT CHÂTEAU CASTEL VIAUD 

of crops”, recounts Laurent Courty, who is tasked 

with running the family estate. After structuring 

the vineyards and reaching a total 12 hectares in 

Lalande-de-Pomerol, “a series of acquisitions and 

some leased land brought the present-day area 

under vine up to nearly 16 hectares”. 

Comprising fine gravel over a sub-soil containing 

iron oxide, “which lends our wines a very aromatic 

style driven by black cherry, kirsch and wild strawberry 

notes”, the soils in Castel Viaud’s vineyards 

offer the perfect location for Merlot, complemented 

by 10% Cabernet franc and 10% Cabernet-Sauvignon. 

Because the crop is entirely destemmed “to lower 

the tannin content in our wines”, the three Lalandede-Pomerol 

labels are “fruity and appetising”, 

matching the “house style” and more importantly, 

resonating with “current consumer trends favouring 

this style of wine”. 

In fact, although Courty sells some of his wines to 

trading companies, claiming he has “no difficulties 

in selling them compared with other appellations, 

the balance of production resonates extremely well 

with private customers to whom we sell directly, 

but also via wine merchants and duty free outlets 

in airports”. 

CHÂTEAU VIEILLE DYNASTIE: 

“LALANDE-DE-POMEROL IS AN 

APPELLATION NOT TO BE MISSED” 

THE VINEYARDS AT CHÂTEAU VIEILLE DYNASTIE 

The fifth generation of a family of winegrowers 

traditionally focusing on production of Bordeaux 

and Bordeaux Supérieur, Frédéric Borderie joined 

the family-run company in 2005. 

The Borderies’ vineyards sweep across nearly 40 

hectares, mainly devoted to producing the generic 

appellation before he arrived on the property. “By 

buying Château Vieille Dynastie in 2011, we were 

able to secure some vineyards in Lalande-de-Pomerol”, 

explains Borderie. One of the unique 

features of this 6.5-hectare unbroken vineyard is its 

“entirely gravel-sand soil which is very conducive to 

growing Cabernet franc and Cabernet-Sauvignon 

that thrive on it, whereas Merlot can actually suffer”. 

Aware of the need to “combine technical efficiency 


CHÂTEAU CASTEL VIAUD 

SURROUNDED BY ITS 

VINEYARDS 

THE LALANDE-DE-POMEROL 

APPELLATION VINEYARDS 

BELONGING TO VIGNOBLES 

BEDRENNE 

THE RECEPTION AND SALES 

FACILITIES FOR VIGNOBLES 

BEDRENNE 


85

LIBOURNAIS 

APPELLATION 

with respect for the environment”, Borderie grows his vineyards based on HVE 3 standards and 

limits the use of chemical inputs whilst promoting biodiversity. By farming sustainably, the 

vineyards have all they need to produce “the most wholesome grapes possible”. The fruit, which 

produces two Lalande-de-Pomerol labels, is “harvested as early as possible to lend freshness to 

the wines, which we want to be palatable”. Borderie firmly believes that “Lalande-de-Pomerol 

is an appellation not to be missed because its shortcoming of the past is its quality today”. He 

focuses on making supple wines. Using stainless steel, concrete, barrels and even amphorae for 

his Eléonore label, Borderie pulls out all the stops to position his wines in a market that he deems 

favourable to an “appellation that now enjoys a great reputation in France and abroad due to the 

upward push from consumers looking for quality wines at affordable prices”. 

VIGNOBLES BEDRENNE: “POMEROL’S REPUTATION 

BUT WITHOUT THE PRICE TAG” 

One Lalande-de-Pomerol winery cannot be missed, and that is Vignobles Bedrenne. And there 

is a good reason for that: “The property’s reception facilities are located in the very heart of 

the village of Lalande-de-Pomerol, opposite the church”, explains Chloé Corfias tasked with 

marketing and sales at this family-run property. 

Now run by Monique Bedrenne and her son Rémi, “Vignobles Bedrenne were inherited from 

Monique’s parents, restructured by her father to produce a single unbroken area under vine”. 

FRÉDÉRIC BORDERIE, THE OWNER OF CHÂTEAU VIEILLE DYNASTIE 


MONIQUE AND RÉMI BEDRENNE, 

THE OWNERS OF 

VIGNOBLES BEDRENNE 

Of the property’s 13 hectares, “the Lalande-de-Pomerol vineyards cover approximately 9 hectares 

with a mix of sand, gravel and blue clay soils”. Merlot, in particular, thrives here and accounts 

for 90% of the varietal range. Carefully tended to with no chemical inputs, the oldest vines are 

between 45 and 70 years old and produce “three wines with different styles”. The La Croix de la 

Chenevelle label echoes the classic Lalande-de-Pomerol style, showing elegance, roundness and 

fine tannins”, whereas “Modius reveals a more complex, structured backbone instilled by the 

blue clay it is grown on”. Lastly “the sulphite-free label Halictus is appetising and fruity”. This 

variety of styles, where a classic wine (La Croix de la Chenevelle) sits comfortably alongside two 

more modern wines has allowed the property to “grow increasingly in export markets, particularly 

the United States where Halictus sells very well”. Locally, “our wines enjoy great exposure 

and benefit from the reputation of Pomerol, but without the price tag”. 

LALANDE DE POMEROL: A WORTHWHILE ALTERNATIVE 

AOC Lalande-de-Pomerol may not enjoy the reputation of AOC Pomerol, or the requisite 

volumes for garnering substantial visibility at international level – as the appellation’s chairman 

Xavier Piton points out – but because it combines quality and accessibility, it resonates particularly 

well with private customers who like the consistency of the wines and the sincerity of the 

winegrowers. So, compared with the sometimes elitist and inaccessible image of Bordeaux’s 

Grands Crus, Lalande-de-Pomerol wines offer a worthwhile alternative. This is something that 

has not gone unnoticed by its winegrowers. Striving to promote their vineyard sites whilst 

producing authentic wines, they have successfully carved out a prime place for themselves in 

the hearts of their customers, securing long-term loyalty from them. 


87

THE FRENCH BEER SCENE SEES 

A PROFUSION OF NEW BRANDS 

AND STYLES 

BY JEAN-PAUL BURIAS 

PHOTOGRAPHS: 

COURTESY OF THE BRANDS - 

© STUDIO MARTINO - © CLFD - 

© BRASSERIE DE CHANDRES 

Over the past few years, the number of newly-established craft breweries in France 

has grown exponentially. These boutique companies have joined a market cornered 

by the international behemoths and a clutch of long-standing breweries. The trend 

dovetails with new consumer patterns and has introduced products running the 

gamut in terms of colours and brewing techniques. We take a closer look. 

CEREALS BEFORE AND AFTER CRUSHING, THE FIRST STAGE IN THE BREWING PROCESS 


BEER 

TREND 

SAVOURING BEER AT THE LILLE TERROIR FESTIVAL 

Craft beers span the colour and taste spectrum to provide enthusiasts with an extensive choice 

of products. In a market that has been made challenging by declining alcohol consumption, 

they offer two major advantages – their alcohol content is low and their price tag affordable. Generally 

speaking, the drop in volume goes hand in hand with superior quality and this is the backdrop 

against which countless local breweries have emerged across France, buoyed by the enthusiasm and 

creativeness of passionate entrepreneurs. The beers display a regional identity, boldly venturing 

into terroir terrain, but despite this, French breweries have borne the brunt of spiralling inflation, 

and have had to cope with an unprecedentedly complex economic environment. So much so that 

one in ten breweries claims to be considering closing permanently this year, as revealed by a survey 

conducted by the French brewery and SME federations whose findings were published on May 

16. In this complex market, brewers are having to contend with an increase in their overheads, 

with the cost of inputs, packaging, raw materials, transport and energy reaching high levels. These 

headwinds, though, are not preventing many breweries from continuing to invest in their production 

facilities and recruit staff in a bid to future-proof their businesses and develop their ability 

to innovate in a marketplace that remains in growth mode. Its creativeness and high standards 

have turned the beer industry into a force to be reckoned with in the drinks market. The following 

examples illustrate the trend. 

BRASSERIE LILLOISE: AN IMPRESSIVE STORY 

Set in the heart of the northern French city of Lille, Brasserie Lilloise proudly publicises its environmental 

credentials with local ingredients across three product ranges. The brand’s iconic label, 

Lydéric, is made from local juniper berries added during the boiling phase. Re-fermented in the 


89

BEER 

TREND 

LÉGENDES 

bottle, it comes as white beer, lager and red ale and 

is enjoyed by foodies who like pairing beer with 

food. Organically certified Phinaert is characterful 

with higher alcohol content and distinctive American-style 

hops which lend it a fruity side. Designed 

as part of an environmentally-friendly, waste-free 

approach, Achille uses un-sold left-over bread 

which replaces the malt during production. “All our 

products are made using artisanal techniques that 

show respect for tradition and prioritise local ingredients”, 

explains chairman Olivier de Brueker. “The 

brewery is committed to these values, treating the 

product with respect and using ancient skills. Our 

aim is to reach out to a wide-ranging audience with 

a broad selection that matches everyone’s tastes in 

terms of alcohol content and style”. Social media, 

fairs and competitions are leveraged to enhance the 

brand’s visibility. 

ARTEMUS: BEER FROM PARIS 

SIMON, ANGÉLIQUE AND JONAS, 

THE THREE BREWERS 

OLIVIER DE BRUEKER, CHAIRMAN OF THE 

BRASSERIE LILLOISE 

THE TEAM AT THE ARTEMUS CRAFT BREWERY 

Since 2015, the Artemus craft brewery has developed 

a customer following. A graduate of the prestigious 

Arts & Métiers engineering school, Laurent 

Laloue established the brand that has now become 

a benchmark and offers several unique recipes that 

deliver some stunning flavour experiences. “Our 

beers display distinctively unique flavours”, explains 

Laloue. “The aim is to take imbibers by surprise and 

introduce them to something new through their 

technical qualities – the foam, bubbles, bitterness, 

consistency, aromas, colour, brilliance, and their 

shelf life”. Despite this, the competition has changed 

a lot over the past four years. The market has become 

more structured and breweries have had to generate 

greater customer loyalty. “It’s not so much a market 

to be conquered any more”, adds Laloue. “Big manufacturers 

have entered the scene and their tack has 

been to try and give their products a craft feel and 

buy speciality breweries to penetrate the European 

market. In recent times, every stakeholder has been 

familiar with craft beer. Consumers are receptive to 

our products and feel that they are drinking better”. 


BEER 

TREND 

BRASSERIE DU CASTELLET: 

THE SCENT OF PROVENCE 

THE TEAM AT THE BRASSERIE DU CASTELLET 

Renowned globally for its rosé wines, Provence is 

also home to other delicious drinks produced in 

this stunning region. Located near the village of 

Le Castellet – hence its name – the Brasserie du 

Castellet designs, produces and packages all of 

its beers on its premises based on environmentally-friendly 

principles. Its ingredients, including 

Mistral hops and wild rosemary, are carefully 

selected. The barley and wheat are sourced in 

France. The spelt which grows in the neighbouring 

department of Vaucluse is crushed by a mill in the 

Bouches-du-Rhône department. The coriander and 

orange peel come from the region. The brewery has 

installed water purification facilities to treat its 

waste water and control its emissions. The spent 

grain stemming from the barley after the must 

has been racked is given to a local farmer who 

uses it to feed his animals. “The brewery was established 

in 2018 with the avowed aim of nurturing 

our Provençal identity”, stresses Vanessa Cesari, 

head of marketing. “Our Fada range uses unique 

recipes for its lager, white beer, IPA, Triple and 

apricot beers. The lager is brewed with a mixture 

of Provence-grown spelt and barley malt. It fully 

expresses the fresh, floral aromatic core of Mistral 

hops. Its malt notes are balanced by a fine, light 

bitterness that people really enjoy”. 

THE OPEN-AIR BAR FOR KIARA BEER 

KIARA LA PETITE BRASSERIE DE 

CORSE: BEER FROM THE ISLAND 

OF BEAUTY 

With a history spanning just four years, the Petite 

Brasserie de Corse has already made a name for 

itself on the Island of Beauty. It was created in 

February 2019 with the help of Ghjuvan Petru Piere, 

a young brewer who has been instrumental in the 

brewery’s growth. Its owner is none other than 

winegrower Jean-François Renucci, who also owns 

Terra Vecchia and Clos Poggiale. The beer is named 

after a nymph born in a neighbouring lagoon. Fast 

forward several centuries and the brewery nurtures 


91

BEER 

TREND 

THE CROSNIER FAMILY 

the authenticity of tradition whilst at the same time 

injecting a spirit of innovation and a dash of modernity 

as evidenced by the cutting-edge production 

facilities. “Kiara is made from citrus fruits – 

lemons, tangerines and citrons – grown in our own 

orchards”, explains Anouk Basille, head of communications 

and packaging development. “We showcase 

a local, artisanal way of doing things, whilst 

also focusing our communications on a young, 

colourful and dynamic lifestyle beer with a packaging 

design that appeals and unique flavours that 

pique people’s interest”. Despite the abundance of 

commercially available brands, Kiara has grown its 

reputation in an era where consumers are increasingly 

looking for local products and shunning a 

more industrial approach. 

L’EURELIENNE: 

FROM BARLEY TO BEER 

L’EURELIENNE: BARLEY IS GROWN ON THE FAMILY’S FARM 

L’Eurélienne belongs to the generation of French 

breweries born in the 21 st century. Its history began 

in 2005 when 23-year-old Vincent Crosnier began 

producing craft beers from barley grown on the 

family farm. In his tiny workshop located in a stable, 

the young brewer transformed barley into beer. 

Through word of mouth and positive feedback from 

tastings at farmers’ markets, he has successfully 

developed a consumer audience. Chartres cathedral 

and the fields of barley have become the brand’s 

image. In 2012, production capacity was ramped up 

due to new buildings and high-performance brewing 

and bottling equipment. “We have developed a 

genuine farm brewery and one of our unique features 

is that we mostly use the barley grown in our fields 

to produce the beer”, says Crosnier. “Our cereals 

lend a certain mellowness to them and a distinctive 

identity”. The beer undergoes a secondary fermentation 

in the bottle. “L’Eurélienne is a beer with 

natural ageability that contains simple ingredients 

– water, barley, hops, yeast and natural ingredients 

to enhance production”, adds Crosnier. With its 

name a nod to its home department, the craft beer 

has become an iconic terroir-driven product for both 

locals and holidaymakers passing through. 


VINCENT CROSNIER, 

THE FOUNDER OF 

L’EURÉLIENNE 


93

BEER 

TREND 

BRASSERIE RULL: 

BEER FROM MOUNT CANIGOU 

THE CROSS AT THE TOP OF MOUNT CANIGOU 

Near the Spanish border, Brasserie Rull has successfully 

pulled off an incredible fusion of the expertise 

of a passionate ‘beerologist’ and a subtle combination 

of ingredients. The beer epitomises the 

outstanding, unspoilt landscapes and is brewed 

using artisanal techniques from cereals and hops 

grown by French farmers. “The beers are brewed 

with water from the Canigou, the sacred mountain 

of the Catalans”, stresses owner Stéphanie Rull. 

“They contain neither stabilisers or colourings or 

preservatives, just natural ingredients like barley 

malt, hops and yeast”. It has proven to be a winning 

formula and the business is growing. Rull has even 

set up an open-air bar on the premises to strengthen 

the appeal of her beers further and leverage 

the potential of a very dynamic market. 

BRASSERIE DU SANCY: 

BEER FROM VOLCANOS 

STÉPHANIE RULL IN THE BREWING ROOM 

Mainland France’s highest volcano – which peaks 

at 1,886 metres above sea level – befittingly lends 

its name to a beer that also scales the heights. The 

production method at Brasserie du Sancy is based 

on 100% malt, with no added sugar, colourings or 

artificial flavours and no filtering or pasteurisation. 

The beers display a trademark cereal-type nose 

where hops are distinctive but do not overwhelm 

the palate with bitterness. “We strive to produce 

beer with a crowd-pleasing flavour”, sums up 

owner Nicolas Dauchy. “Alcohol content is quite low 

compared with the same rival beers. Our ethos is 

to produce the finest taste at the best price point”. 

With a good footing in its home region, Brasserie 

du Sancy is developing sales across France, in 

export markets and even in high-end restaurants. 

“The market is growing really quickly with a huge 

number of signature styles”, adds Dauchy. “Rationalisation 

and professionalisation within the industry, 

competition among breweries and the high standards 

of our customers all drive us to constantly 

make progress”. 


NICOLAS DAUCHY, THE OWNER OF THE BRASSERIE DU SANCY 

INCREASINGLY SOUGHT-AFTER LOCAL BRANDS 

Beer can have countless personas and covers a remarkable array of flavours and 

freshness. It is a space that resonates with the expectations of young, urban consumers, 

due to its moderate pricing, reined-in alcohol content and marketing appeal. 

The emergence of craft breweries across France is opening up new avenues for 

consumers who want a greater choice of products, with regional provenance and 

terroir characters broadening the scope further. In fact, independent breweries 

have opened up the lower alcohol and flavoured beer category, whilst at the same 

time acting as the custodians of powerfully-flavoured but also easy-drinking, palatable 

range staples. They have successfully carved out a place for themselves alongside 

market behemoths such as Kronenbourg, 1664, Grimbergen, Heineken, Stella 

Artois, Leffe and Hoegaarden. The appeal of regionality comes with a great brand 

image. The category is growing in a way akin to that of the wine industry, with 

consumers drinking less but looking for a pleasurable experience with a beer that 

is both flavourful and characterful. “The market is highly competitive”, comments 

Olivier de Brueker, chairman of the Brasserie Lilloise. Demand has increased substantially 

and the response to this has been an impressive number of new breweries 

entering the fray. But the market generates constant appeal. Over the past ten 

years, consumption has changed and offers genuine opportunities for craft beers 

that show respect for tradition and provide product ranges that differ from those 

of the large manufacturers. And that is undeniably a major plus point… 


95

BODEGAS CRIADORES DE RIOJA, 

THE ART OF BALANCE 

BY ISABELLE ESCANDE 

PHOTOGRAPHS: 


Founded just over 25 years ago in response to increased demand for Rioja wines 

internationally, family-run bodega Criadores de Rioja has always kept a watchful 

eye on overseas markets. Its wines encapsulate a fusion of tradition and modernity 

and the winery has successfully kept abreast of changing demand and consumer 

patterns. With its appeal continuing to extend way beyond national borders, it 

offers a fine illustration of the vitality of this famous Spanish appellation and its 

ability to reinvent itself. 

WINEMAKER AZUCENA HERVELLA 


SPAIN 

FOCUS 

IN THE HEART OF RIOJA, THE BODEGA OFFERS A GOOD ILLUSTRATION OF THE DIVERSITY OF THE FAMOUS SPANISH APPELLATION 

In 1997, the Vivanco family decided to invest in building a winery to 

produce, mature and bottle DOCa Rioja wines. The focus is on large 

international grocery outlets, hence the emphasis placed on quality right 

from the outset. With its impeccable, cutting-edge facilities, most of 

them underground, and its unwavering attention to the various stages 

of production, Criadores de Rioja was the first Spanish winery to secure 

the German IFS certification (International Featured Standard) which 

ensures food safety – a prerequisite for accessing European super 

and hypermarkets. 

The overriding ambition is to export quintessential Rioja wines across 

the globe, to introduce consumers to their elegant, balanced style, and 

also to reveal the variety on offer in this unique region. Located in the 

very heart of the appellation area, just six kilometres from Rioja’s capital 

of Logroño, the bodega is strategically situated at the crossroads of the 

appellation’s three sub-regions: Rioja Alta, sheltered by the Cantabrian 

Mountains; Rioja Alavesa with its yellow-hued limestone soils; and 

Rioja Oriental, home to reddish silica soils. The region is also at the 

intersection of three weather patterns – continental, Mediterranean 

and Atlantic. 


97

THE UNDERGROUND 

AGEING CELLAR 

VERY STRONG LOCAL ROOTS 

This unique setting punctuated by plains, forests and steep footpaths provide the 

backdrop for the winery’s vines to thrive. In addition to its estate vineyards, the 

company also works hand in hand with over 500 families of grape growers who 

have devoted their lives to growing vines, from one generation to the next. This 

experience has enabled them to pinpoint the vineyard sites best suited to each 

variety, explains the winery’s marketing manager, Hugo Urquiza. “The vineyards 

embrace 20 small villages located in the central part of the Rioja appellation area, 

offering an extensive range of aspects, vineyard management techniques, grape 

varieties, soil types and elevations, for example. It is a melting pot of Rioja and 

its diversity”. 

All the region’s native varieties are grown here: Tempranillo, Grenache Noir, 

Graciano, Mazuelo and Maturana Tinta for the reds, and Viura, Grenache Blanc, 

Tempranillo Blanco and Malvoisie for the whites. Inevitably, Tempranillo dominates 

the 1,000 hectares under vine but since its inception, the winery has made 

no bones about its determination to promote traditional, minority varieties. 

“We believe they provide us with a unique, quality point of difference”, claims 

Urquiza. “Also, they help us address climate change due to their suitability 

to local conditions, and also to market demand. At the start of the 2000s, we 

opted for the seductive fruit characters of Grenache, the freshness and aromatic 

complexity of Mazuelo, and the structure and silkiness of Graciano. Over the past 


CRIADORES DE RIOJA 

COMBINES MODERN 

FACILITIES WITH 

TRADITIONAL TECHNIQUES 

THE BODEGA GROWS ALL OF 

THE TRADITIONAL NATIVE 

GRAPE VARIETIES IN RIOJA 

BOTTLE MATURATION 


99

CRIADORES DE RIOJA MAKES 

MODERN, FRUITY WINES YET ALSO 

OFFERS FAITHFUL RENDITIONS 

OF THE RIOJA STYLE 

decade, we have focused in particular on the two latest native grape varieties 

permitted – white Tempranillo for its aromatic intensity and complexity, and 

Maturana Tinta, for its freshness and international style”. 

The bodega has its sights set on overseas markets, but at the same time continues 

to honour its inherent identity. This juggling act also involves the winemaking 

process. In recent years, the winery has introduced more modern techniques 

which it combines with traditional Rioja expertise, including the use of cold 

soaking to produce more deeply coloured, structured and complex wines. It has 

also increased the number of French oak barrels, used more new barrels and 

reduced its maturation times to align better with international demand, without 

compromising on quality or the region’s hallmark style. 

Honouring its vineyard sites of course implies making a commitment to the 

environment. Criadores de Rioja is a practitioner of sustainable or organic 

farming techniques. The group it belongs to is one of Rioja’s largest in terms 

of organic acreage. “All of our Graciano and Maturana Tinta vines are farmed 

organically”, stresses Urquiza. “Both varieties lend themselves well to a more 

modern style”. 


CRIADORES DE RIOJA 

IS LOCATED IN ALBERITE, 

A SMALL VILLAGE 

NEAR LOGROÑO 

CONSTANT GROWTH 

Traditionally, the bodega has always shipped the majority of its wines to overseas 

markets (approximately 60%), even though it has never turned its back on the 

domestic market. In fact, “during periods of instability, the latter of the two often 

acts as a safe haven”, admits Urquiza. Currently, the armed conflict between 

Russia and Ukraine, as well as Brexit have led to a slight decrease in exports. The 

United Kingdom, along with Germany and North America, have long been the 

largest importer countries for Criadores de Rioja. 

But this marginal decline has not prevented the winery from continuing to grow. 

Other markets are currently being surveyed and the winery has expanded significantly, 

rising from 10,000 m2 to 22,000 m2 in just a few years. And the desire 

to improve continues to drive the company. The bodega has taken on board the 

Lean Manufacturing approach, a management method designed to improve a 

company’s performance, and has been awarded LEED (Leadership in Energy and 

Environmental Design) certification, a benchmark for sustainable buildings. 

All of these small triumphs underscore the winery’s determination to secure 

visibility and exposure over and over again. 


101

CHILE, THE WORLD 

FOR A MARKET 

BY MAURICIO LLAVER 

PHOTOGRAPHS: 


The South American country is the world’s fourth largest wine exporter and leader 

among the New World wine countries, fuelled by the export culture of its wine 

producers, the active role of export promotion agencies, and free trade agreements 

with more than 65 countries. 

THE MOST EXPORTED WINES ARE BLENDS OF RED VARIETALS, CABERNET SAUVIGNON AND SAUVIGNON BLANC 


CHILE 

ECONOMY 

SOME WINERIES STARTED EXPORTING AFTER MORE THAN A CENTURY OF PRODUCING WINES AIMED AT THE DOMESTIC MARKET 

In his novel ‘The Tailor of Panama’, written in 1996, British novelist John Le Carré 

recounts that bottles of fine wine were always opened at high-level diplomatic 

meetings. And he adds: ‘Chilean’, as a symbol of distinction. 

These were the first results of a trend that began in Chile in the 1970s and became 

more entrenched in the 1980s, as a result of a more open economy and declining wine 

consumption in the domestic market. These two forces combined to transform Chile 

into an aggressive wine exporter, and the numbers now underscore that transformation. 

Export perspectives were consolidated by numerous free trade agreements that were 

signed from the 1990s onwards, which allowed Chilean wineries to access more international 

markets free of duty. This was complemented by the work of two key organisations 

– ProChile and Vinos de Chile/Wines of Chile – which have since contributed to 

the promotion and presence of its wines worldwide. 

The South American country is the world’s fourth largest exporter, after France, Italy 

and Spain. It is also the leading exporter of New World wines, with an 8% share of the 

total international market; by comparison, Argentina’s exports account for only 2.5%. 

In the 21 st century to date, its exports have grown at an average rate of 6% per year, 

and thanks to an official programme launched in 2010 – the Chilean Wine Sustaina- 


103

CHILE HAS FREE TRADE 

AGREEMENTS WITH MORE 

THAN 65 COUNTRIES 

bility Code – 80% of its exports are sustainable. The main markets for Chilean 

wines, in terms of value, are China, Brazil, the United Kingdom, the United States 

and Canada. Bottled wines account for 55% of its sales, with red varietal blends, 

Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc, white varietal blends, Chardonnay and 

Merlot standing out. Chile is the envy of many wine-producing countries, and this 

is reflected in the experience of some of its wineries. 

CONCHA Y TORO, 

EXPORTS TO 130 COUNTRIES 

The most famous Chilean wine group is Concha y Toro, one of whose brands, Casillero 

del Diablo, is considered as one of the most renowned in the world. Two facts 

define its importance in the international market: one is that its first exports date 

back to 1933 – pretty remarkable for a South American country – and the other is 

that it markets its wines in 130 countries. Its main markets at the end of 2022 were 

the United Kingdom (where it has a strong advertising presence in the football 

and rugby leagues), the United States, Chile, Brazil and Mexico. The company’s 

export strength is underscored by its 13 distribution offices around the world in 

addition to other distributors and independent sales offices, all of which are aimed 

at strengthening its sales network. 


CHILE 

ECONOMY 

“The company believes this is a competitive advantage 

as it allows it to work directly with customers 

and effectively execute the sales and marketing 

strategy in key markets. In addition, we seek to 

be present in a variety of markets through trips 

and attendance of exhibitions”, Concha y Toro told 

Gilbert & Gaillard. 

The company markets its wines across the categories, 

but for the last five years it has embarked on 

a strategy of premiunisation for its portfolio and 

already half of its sales comes from premium or 

superior quality wines. Its main brand is Casillero 

del Diablo, which has its own line extensions, such 

as Casillero del Diablo Reserva Privada. The iconic 

brand is Don Melchor, which has recently shown 

strong growth in several markets. Other relevant 

brands are Diablo and Marqués de Casa Concha. 

Concha y Toro attributes its export success to a 

combination of two factors: having good free trade 

agreements to open new markets, and positioning 

globally recognised brands through a commercial 

strategy that allows them to be on tables across 

the world. 

BY THE END OF 2022, THE MAIN MARKETS FOR CHILEAN WINES BY VALUE WERE CHINA, 

BRAZIL, THE UNITED KINGDOM, THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA 

ACW GROUP, WITH VIÑA ARESTI, EXPORTS TO MORE THAN 40 COUNTRIES 

ACW GROUP, PRICES FOR ALL 

TYPES OF CONSUMERS 

Located in the Curicó Valley, Viña Aresti made its 

competitive breakthrough in 1999, when it began 

exporting bottled wine. At first it did so with 

the Aresti brand and in 2006 it added the global 

launch of its Espíritu de Chile label. Nowadays, 

as the ACW Group (Aresti Chile Wine), it exports 

to more than 40 countries, with an important 

presence in Japan, Finland and Ireland, among 

other markets. 

“At Viña Aresti we export a wide variety of high 

quality wines made from grape varieties recognised 

in Chile and across the world such as 

Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenere, Sauvignon 

Blanc and Chardonnay. Some of our main lines are 

Trisquel Gran Reserva, Trisquel Series and Family 

Collection”, explains the company. 

For marketing its wines, the company has strategic 

partners in different export markets, including 


105

CHILE 

ECONOMY 

distributors and importers, whom it considers key due to their knowledge and 

experience of the relevant markets. 

Attendance at international trade fairs is also prioritised as venues “where we 

have the opportunity to showcase our products and strengthen trade relations”. 

This work is reinforced by constant travel by the group’s sales people, including 

visits and meetings with existing and potential customers. Behind all this, 

impactful marketing and digital promotion is rolled out to secure greater visibility 

for the products. 

Aresti believes that Chile has the advantage of producing wines of excellent 

quality thanks to the country’s topographical and climatic conditions, and prices 

aimed at all types of consumers. It also points out the support of the Chilean 

state for exporters: “Chilean wineries receive support from institutions such as 

ProChile or Wines of Chile. Their help in promoting exports comes in the form 

of advice, training, organisation of fairs, and promotion of the country’s image 

and the reputation of Chilean wines abroad. They provide specific information 

on each market of interest, with the main objective of expanding exports. The 

international economic agreements signed by the Chilean state have facilitated 

JON USABIAGA, THE WINEMAKER AT VIÑA ARESTI 


CHILE 

ECONOMY 

exports of Chilean wines. These agreements have focused on reducing tariff 

barriers and clarifying trade parameters, with the aim of facilitating access and 

presence in different markets”. 

CREMASCHI FURLOTTI, 

95% OF PRODUCTION SHIPPED OVERSEAS 

“Chile is a small, low-consumption country, so we have an export culture”. This 

is how Sebastián Cremaschi, CEO of the Cremaschi Furlotti winery, located in 

Loncomilla Valley, defines the philosophy of Chilean winemaking. 

His family has always been a world traveller. They first emigrated from Italy 

to Argentina in 1899, and from there to Chile in the 1970s. With their project 

consolidated, they began to export bottled wine in the mid-1990s. Cremaschi 

Furlotti now reaches more than 40 countries, and exports account for more than 

95% of its production. “Chile is a small and highly concentrated market,” says 

Cremaschi. “Most of our wineries export more than 80% of their production”. 

GONZALO PÉREZ, HEAD WINEMAKER AT CREMASCHI FURLOTTI 


107

CHILE 

ECONOMY 

CLOS DE LUZ IS COMMITTED TO PREMIUM CARMENERE WITH VINEYARDS PLANTED IN 1945 

IN THE ALMAHUE VALLEY, SOUTH OF THE CAPITAL SANTIAGO DE CHILE 

Brazil, Europe, China and the United States are 

the bodega’s main markets and although it specialises 

in red and still wines, it also sells sparkling, 

semi-dry and sweet wines. “We are very innovative 

and versatile according to the needs of each market 

and customer,” says its CEO. 

In order to make export trade more efficient, 

Cremaschi Furlotti constantly supports its distributors 

and travels to attend events, trade fairs and 

visit customers across the globe. 

ProChile’s support is fundamental: “Prochile 

provides market information, organises activities, 

and makes its infrastructure available to us in the 

form of offices and meeting rooms. We have a very 

fluid communication with them”. 

Cremaschi sums up the context for Chilean wines: 

“We have an open economy with known and stable 

rules, first class ports with access to competitive 

maritime tariffs, and diverse wines of excellent 

quality that are very stable over time. These factors, 

combined with highly professional, skilled sales 

teams willing to travel all over the world, have positioned 

us as a major wine exporting country. At international 

fairs, Chile is present on an equal footing 

with any other wine-growing country in the world”. 

CLOS DE LUZ, 

A PRESENCE IN 15 COUNTRIES 

BODEGA TAGUA STARTED EXPORTING IN 2015 AND ALREADY SELLS ITS WINES IN 52 

COUNTRIES 

Clos de Luz is a family-owned winery in the 

Almahue Valley, located about 120 kilometres 

South of the country’s capital, Santiago de Chile. 

It was founded in 1945 and, in keeping with the 

country’s export tradition, began selling its 

wines abroad in 2015. Today the company has a 

presence in 15 countries, with the United States 

and China leading the way, and its main product 

is premium Carmenere, promoted by Chile as 

its iconic grape. Clos de Luz focuses its exports 

on distributors targeting the on-trade and its 

commercial agents travel mainly to two international 

fairs: Vinexpo and ProWein. 

It believes that Chile has successfully established 

itself in far-flung markets due to its open 

economy, along with the support of ProChile. 


CHILE 

ECONOMY 

ALEJANDRO GARRIDO, BTT’S SALES AND MARKETING DIRECTOR: “THERE IS NO SILVER 

BULLET FOR WINNING OVER INTERNATIONAL MARKETS” 

TAGUA SPA: EXPORTING AFTER A CENTURY 

Bodegas Tagua SPA is another example of a Chilean winery that ultimately decided 

to embrace exports. The company dates back to 1902 and has been selling wine in 

bulk for more than a century. In 2015, after several corporate changes, it began 

shipping bottled wine, and in 2018, as Bodegas Tagua (BTT), it ramped up its 

foreign sales. Today, the company is present in 52 markets, primarily Brazil, China, 

Thailand, Colombia and Ecuador. 

Alejandro Garrido, its Sales and Marketing Director, claims “there is no silver bullet 

for winning over international markets. We have to achieve a perfect mix between 

a large number of trips and customers who support us and market our products 

with strength and passion, and thus reflect the spirit and hallmark that we seek 

to establish as a company”. 

In this respect, Garrido again feels that they have “a lot of support, from our 

government, Wines of Chile and other structures. But undoubtedly the trade 

treaties and agreements signed by Chile with more than 65 nations have greatly 

contributed to the success of the export model and companies like BTT”. 

He summarises: “It is a combination of professionalism, honest prices so that 

consumers can access our wines, impeccable logistics throughout the chain, and 

our friendliness that makes us stand out as a country and opens new doors and 

markets for us every day”. 


109

STRAITALIAN WINEMAKERS 

QUINTESSENTIAL ITALY, 

WITH A DIFFERENCE 

BY ELLEN BUDGE 

PHOTOGRAPHS: 

COURTESY OF THE WINERY 

One of its flagship lines may well be called ‘crazy bottle’ – aka Bocciamatta 

in Italian – but StraItalian Winemakers and its managing director Gaetano 

Peragine have their feet firmly on, and in, the ground. 

STRAITALIAN FOCUSES ON RETAINING CONTROL OVER THE VALUE CHAIN TO OFFER THE BEST PRICES TO ITS GROWERS, AND ITS CUSTOMERS 



FOCUS 

STRAITALIAN MANAGING DIRECTOR GAETANO PERAGINE ADVOCATES A TRANSPARENT, 

SIMPLE, AUTHENTIC AND HONEST APPROACH TO MARKETING THE COMPANY’S WINES 

S 

“ traItalian is not a conglomerate of producers”, stresses Gaetano Peragine, at the 

helm of a nevertheless tight-knit group of grape growers spread over seven Italian 

wine regions. “It’s a company that works with small grape growers from northern to 

southern Italy, and from east to west, making our own distinctive blends that will 

set us apart in the market and carry our brand”. Tostorreddu, an innovative blend of 

Carignano del Sulcis, Cannonau and Bovale which spends two years in barrels, is the 

ultimate epitome of this strategy. It means stubborn, by the way. 

ECONOMIES OF SCALE FOR SMALL PRODUCERS 

With a choice of 75 grape varieties, 600 hectares of vineyards and 12 brands to work 

with, the variations are endless but there are also numerous common threads. “The 

grape growers work the land then our in-house winemakers monitor the quality and 

deliver specifications about how we want the vineyards to be run, when we want the 

grapes harvested and so on”. Most of the wines are made at the winery in Castellina 

Marittima, where StraItalian also owns its own vineyards. “We are twenty miles from 

the port of Livorno so it’s very convenient for shipping abroad”, points out Peragine. 

This is no accident for a company that exports 95% of its 5.5 million bottles annually, 

and it aligns perfectly with its emphasis on the value chain and cost savings. “There 


111

THE UNIQUE PEN DRAWINGS 

BY MILAN STYLIST RICCARDO 

CAPUZZO ADD UNDENIABLE SHELF 

STAND-OUT TO THE BOCCIAMATTA 

AQUATIC COLLECTION 

BORDEAUX 

TRAVEL 



FOCUS 

are 43,000 producers in Italy but only 10-15 can truly say they have well-known brands. 

Our aim is therefore to generate economies of scale for small producers. The average 

export price of Italian wine is around 3 euros. If you can generate savings of up to 20% 

on a bottle of wine, it’s very significant”. 

CONTROLLING THE VALUE CHAIN 

The policy has reaped rewards for StraItalian, primarily in one of its major target 

markets, the United States, where it has established its own import company, StraItalian 

Inc. “This is our gateway to the US market. It allows us to be in charge of the value chain, 

generates savings and means that our wines travel straight from Tuscany to Miami or 

New York with no intermediaries”. The cost savings have even taken US retailers aback 

but they’re not the only advantage of having a dedicated US-based structure. “Flexibility 

is a key selling point for us. Having stock already in the US is a great lever. Even 

the big retailers we now work with did not want to commit in the beginning and buy a 


113


FOCUS 

BY DESIGNING AN EXCLUSIVE 

BOTTLE, SOURCING PINOT 

GRIGIO IN FRUILI AND 

LEVERAGING AWARENESS OF 

THE VARIETAL, STRAITALIAN 

HAS SUCCESSFULLY SECURED 

LISTINGS IN MAJOR US 

SUPERMARKETS 

full container. We have warehouses in New York 

and Miami, allowing retailers to access smaller 

batches, one or two pallets. For me, that’s genuine 

flexibility”. The strategy has been so successful that 

Peragine is now looking to replicate it in China 

and Japan. “We have been working for a while on 

a joint-venture for both countries that would give 

us more direct control over these markets”. 

PREMIUMISING TWO ITALIAN 

RANGE STAPLES 

The US market has also allowed the company to 

premiumise two Italian appellations that to a 

certain extent have become commoditised. Italian 

Pinot grigio has undeniably been a resounding 

success internationally in recent years but with 

this success has come a measure of trivialisation. 

“Pinot grigio is very well-known worldwide, but 

we want to take it further”, explains Peragine. “So 

we steered away from Veneto and went to Friuli, 

which is the best region in Italy for white wines”. 

After an 18-month quest to design a premium, 

signature Pinot grigio, StraItalian produced 

Strato Pinot Grigio DOC. The name is a nod to 

the different layers of soil vines put their roots 

down through, but also to the company’s name 

and to its potential ‘stratospheric’ success. The 

packaging is also key to the higher-end approach. 

“We drew the bottle in-house. It’s a Champagne 

bottle and is exclusively made for us”. With the 

blessing of the critics – James Suckling awarded 

it 91 points and Gilbert & Gaillard a double gold 

medal – Strato Pinot Grigio is all-set to enter the 

US market with a price point of $18.99 that sets it 

apart from the customary range of $6.99 to $13.99 

for the varietal. “We have been picked up by three 

big box retailers – which I cannot name yet – and 

also by Fresh Market”. 

ITALIAN DESIGN AT ITS FINEST 

The success mirrors that of StraItalian stable mate, 

Bocciamatta Private Collection Aquatic Creatures, 


STRAITALIAN OFFERS QUINTESSENTIAL ITALIAN STYLING, WITH A SIGNIFICANT TWIST 

a range extension with a difference of the company’s Prosecco in its distinctive 

painted white bottle. “We wanted to take our existing Bocciamatta line further 

by making the bottle even more distinctive”, recounts Peragine. “So we met with 

Riccardo Capuzzo, who is a Milan stylist. He had already produced these extraordinary 

pen drawings and has a range of products that sport them. The white painted 

bottles of Bocciamatta really enable them to stand out”. The drawing is scanned 

and digitally imprinted onto the bottle. “It is not a plastic sleeve or a screen print. 

We don’t want to add to the plastic already in the world”. The sustainability of the 

design is echoed in the potential post-consumption usage of the bottle. “Once 

you’ve drunk the wine, the bottle is so beautiful that you want to keep it and do 

something with it, like a lamp or a vase”. The collectability of the bottles is enhanced 

further by the desirability of Capuzzo’s own collections, with some items retailing 

for €250. “If you buy a bottle of our Prosecco, it will cost you €25-30!” StraItalian 

has thought through every detail of the process: “The regulatory back label can 

easily be peeled off, with a little press of the finger, and it leaves no stickiness”. The 

result has been “overwhelming demand. We only produced 3,000 bottles to start, 

and they sold out within 72 hours. So we’re now scaling up production to meet that 

demand, in Italy and worldwide”. 

StraItalian, which means quintessentially Italian, has leveraged its distinctive 

approach to production and marketing to grow sales relentlessly year-on-year. 

“That’s due to our new product launches, like Strato and Bocciamatta, so the best 

is yet to come!” 


115

JOHN AND OLIVIA: 

GREAT MINDS DRINK ALIKE 

BY FRANK ROUSSEAU, 

OUR CORRESPONDENT IN LOS ANGELES 

PHOTOGRAPHS: ALL RIGHTS RESERVED 

Olivia and John were friends both on and off-screen. This year 

marks the 45 th anniversary of the romantic musical comedy 

‘Grease’ in 1978, when they got us all dancing and singing to its 

catchy score. When they got together to talk about “the carefree 

times of their youth”, these talented artists would often do so over 

a glass of wine. A drink the duo loved to indulge in, just like some 

old-school rock… 

What is a good wine according to John Travolta? 

I would imagine it is quite simply a wine you enjoy, without thinking 

too much about it, or asking how much it costs. Without asking, “Is it a 

vintage or not?” “What is its provenance?” “Has it received any awards?” 

“Has it been showered with praise by the critics?” You know, I have 

travelled an awful lot in my life and I have occasionally drunk wines served 

in a pitcher. Believe me, those unpretentious wines had more honourable 

flavours than some bottles with prestigious labels that sell for a fortune. 

It’s a bit like books. Sometimes you are influenced or attracted to the back 

cover, by the great photos on the cover or a well-written presentation, 

but once you find out more by flicking through the pages, you are a bit 

disappointed. I have learnt not to judge a book by its cover… 

Is it your humble Italian origins that taught you that? 

Maybe! My father was the son of an immigrant from Naples. In our family, 

we liked good things but our finances did not allow us to be spendthrifts. 

When my father would bring a bottle of wine home, he made sure he had 

bought something ‘good’ without breaking the bank. I think it would have 

given him gut ache to spend too much. So when Italian friends or cousins 

returned back to the United States with Parma ham, local cheeses and 

some bottles of Italian wine in their luggage, right under the noses of the 

American customs officers, it was a bit like Christmas had come early. My 

father had a soft spot for Taurasi, a wine from the Campania region. Not 

to mention Limoncello, the liqueur made from lemon zests. That’s when 

he could enjoy some good things without feeling guilty… 

You told me one day that drinking wine was more effective than 

holding a hand out to someone… 

Wine is so much more than just fermented grapes! It is a token of conviviality. 

Have you never noticed that when you share the same passion with 

116 

SUMMER 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

LÉGENDES 

LÉGENDES 

JOHN TRAVOLTA WITH OLIVIA NEWTON-JOHN 

JOHN TRAVOLTA WITH FRANK ROUSSEAU 

someone, that’s when the magic occurs. Even if you don’t speak the same language! 

Let me give you an example. When I met Gérard Depardieu, he didn’t speak English 

very well. When we started to talk about the wines we enjoyed, we quickly realised 

that we were speaking the same language – the language of Epicureans! It was the 

same thing with Olivia Newton-John. We shared so many good times together. 

On-set and often over great dinners. Every time Olivia mentioned wine, her eyes 

would sparkle! 

Olivia Newton-John, the memories 

Last August, Olivia Newton-John passed away after a public battle with cancer lasting 

three decades. Newton-John, aka Sandy in Grease, launched two wines whose profits 

were designed to combat prostate and breast cancer. Produced in Sonoma under 

the ‘Pink and Blue for Two’ label, she was extremely attached to these Merlot and 

Chardonnay wines. In fact, she invited Gilbert & Gaillard readers to reach out to the 

rural community in the Anderson Valley, in northern California, which she felt was 

home to the finest wines in the world, without all the bells and whistles. 


117

CONTACT 

DETAILS 

Provence - Pages 10-24 

• Château Roubine: Tel. : + 33 4 94 85 94 94 - 

www.chateauroubine.com 

• Domaine des Féraud: Tel. +33 4 94 73 03 12 - 

www.DomaineDesFeraud.com 

• Château Margüi: Tel. : + 33 9 77 90 23 18 - 

www.chateaumargui.com 

• Domaine la Grande Bauquière: 

Tel. + 33 4 42 29 05 37 - 

www.domainelagrandebauquiere.com 

• Vignobles Ghigo Domaine de Château Vert: 

Tel. +33 4 94 93 60 02 - www.vignobles-ghigo.com 

• Maison Meï Domaine Saint-Jean: 

Tel : +33 4 42 61 97 36 - www.maison-mei.com 

• Château Paquette: Tel. +33 4 94 40 87 90 - 

www.chateaupaquette.fr 

• Chateau Paradis: Tel. +33 4 42 54 09 43 - 

www.chateauparadis.com 

• Château de Fonscolombe: Tel. +33 4 42 61 70 00 - 

www.fonscolombe.fr 

Burgundy - Pages 26-35 

• Domaine Pansiot: Tel. +33 3 80 62 94 32 - 

www.domaine-pansiot.com 

• Domaine Edmond Cornu & Fils: 

Tel. +33 3 80 26 40 79 - 

www.bourgogne-vigne-verre.com 

• Domaine du Chalet Pouilly: Tel. +33 3 85 35 80 07 - 

www.chaletpouilly.com 

• Domaine Eric Darles: Tel. +33 3 86 42 57 31 - 

darles.irancy@orange.fr 

• Pierre Gruber / Paul Aegerter: 

Tel. +33 3 80 61 02 88 - www.aegerter.fr 

• Domaine Florent Garaudet: Tel. +33 6 87 77 01 28 - 

www.domaineflorentgaraudet.com 

• Bourgogne-Devaux: Tel. +33 3 80 26 04 02 - 

www.domaine-bourgogne-devaux.com 

Spain - Pages 36-44 

• Celler de Capçanes: Tel. +34 977 178 319 - 

cellercapcanes@cellercapcanes.com 

• Bodegas Nodus: Tel. +34 962 17 40 29 - 

marisa@bodegasnodus.com 

• Marqués del Atrio: Tel. +34 948 37 99 94 - 

info@marquesdelatrio.com 

• Bodegas Tempore: Tel. +34 976 835 040 - 

info@bodegastempore.com 

• Bodegas Antonio Candela: Tel. +34 968 79 02 81 - 

info@bodegasantoniocandela.com 

Bulgaria - Pages 45-54 

• Borovitza: Tel. +359 887 410 619 - 

https://borovitzawinery.com 

• Bratanov Winery: Tel. +359 888 566 438 - 

https://bratanov.wine 

• Château Avli: Tel. +359 887 282 555 - https://avli.bg 

• Ivo Varbanov: Tel. +44 7956 377 705 - 

https://ivovarbanov.com 

• Kapatovo: Tel. +359 888 521 444 - www.kapatovo.bg 

• Orbelia: Tel. +359 884 667 793 - www.orbeliawinery.bg 

• Rosalea: Tel. +359 877 911 937 - 

www.rosaleawine.com 

• Rupel Winery: Tel. +359 887 612 578 - 

https://rupel-wine.com 

• Villa Melnik: Tel. +359 884935715 - 

https://villamelnik.com 

• Zaara Estate: Tel. +359 889 689 999 - 

https://zaaraestate.com 

• Zlaten Rozhen: Tel. +359 899 409 464 - 

www.zlatenrozhen.bg 

Nursery - Pages 55-59 

• Groupe Mercier: Tel. : +33 2 51 00 65 14 - 

www.pepinieres-mercier.com 

Soave - Pages 61-69 

• Cantina di Soave – Cadis 1898: 

Tel. +39 045 6139811 - info@cadis1898.it 

• Corte Adami: Tel. +39 045 6190218 - 

info@corteadami.it 

• I Campi: Tel. +39 045 6175915 - info@icampi.it 

• I Stefanini: Tel: +39 3516146709 / +39 3498333470 - 

francesco@istefanini.it 

• Tenuta Santa Maria di Gaetano Bertani: 

Tel: +39 045 6020744 - 

info@tenutasantamaria.wine 

• Villa Erbice: Tel: +39 045 8880086 - 

info@villaerbice.it 

• Bertani: Tel: +39 045 8658444 - 

bertani@bertani.net 

South Africa - Pages 70-79 

• Diemersdal. Tel. +27 219 763 361 - 

www.diemersdal.co.za 

• Bartho Eksteen: Tel. +27 723 235 060 - 

www.barthoeksteen.co.za 

• Strandveld: Tel. +27 284 821 902 - 

www.strandveld.co.za 

• Thelema: Tel. +27 218 851 924 - www.thelema.co.za 

• De Grendel: Tel. 27 215 586 280 - 

www.degrendel.co.za 

• Lomond: Tel. +27 283 880 095 - www.lomond.co.za 

• Cape Point Vineyards: Tel. +27 217 890 900 - 

www.cpv.co.za 

• Cederberg: Tel. +27 274 822 827 - 

www.cederbergwine.com 

• Iona: Tel. +27 282 849 678 - www.iona.co.za 

• Zevenwacht: Tel. +27 279 005 700 - 

www.zevenwacht.co.za 

• Aslina Wines: Tel. +27 21 808 1763 - 

https://www.aslinawines.com/ 

Libournais - Pages 80-87 

• Château Belles Graves: Tel. +33 5 57 51 09 61 - 

www.belles-graves.com 

• Château La Petite Duchesse: Tel. +33 6 26 05 28 61 - 

www.chateaulapetiteduchesse.com 

• Château Castel Viaud: Tel. +33 5 57 51 47 31 - 

www.chateaucastelviaud.com 

• Château Vieille Dynastie - Vignobles Borderie: 

Tel. +33 5 57 69 83 01 - www.vinborderie.fr 

• Vignobles Bedrenne: Tel. +33 5 57 51 46 75 - 

www.vignobles-bedrenne.com 

Beers - Pages 88-95 

• Brasserie Lilloise: Tel. +33 3 20 68 18 59 - 

www.brasserie-lilloise.com 

• Artemus: Tel. +33 6 61 98 66 71 - 

www.brasserie-artemus.fr 

• Brasserie du Castellet: Tel. + 33 4 94 02 38 29 - 

www.brasserieducastellet.com 

• Kiara La Petite Brasserie de Corse Clos Poggiale: 

Tel. +33 4 95 32 33 01 - 

www.clospoggiale.fr/content/10-la-brasserie 

• L’Eurelienne: Tel. +33 2 37 25 77 56 - 

https://leurelienne.fr 

• Brasserie Rull Bière du Canigou: 

Tel. +33 6 67 36 28 68- www.biereducanigou.fr 

• Brasserie du Sancy: Tel. +33 6 95 52 43 03 - 

• www.brasserie-sancy.fr 

Spain - Pages 96-101 

• Criadores de Rioja: Tel. +34 941 43 67 02 - 

info@criadoresderioja.es 

Chile - Pages 102-109 

• Concha y Toro: Tel. +56 9 5209 7345 - 

https://conchaytoro.com 

• ACW Group: Tel. +56 9 8573 8415 - https://acw.cl 

• Cremaschi Furlotti: Tel. +56 9 97515159 - 

https://cremaschi-furlotti.cl 

• Clos de Luz: Tel. +56 9 7879 3660 - 

https://closdeluz.com 

• Bodega Tagua Tagua: Tel. +56 9 92692342 - 

https://www.bodegastt.cl 

Italy - Pages 110-115 

• StraItalian: produzione@straitalian.com - 

https://www.straitalian.com/ 


PAGES 120 TO 130 

TOP WINES 

THE SECOND TASTING SESSION OF 2023 

FULLY DELIVERED ON ITS PROMISE 

Our spring and early summer tastings continued to draw as many entries, particularly as we 

further broaden the spectrum by opening up the tastings to beers, ciders, fruit juices and flavoured 

wines. This landmark development allows us to present you wines and drinks from an extensive 

range of backgrounds, selected from a wide choice of several thousands of bottles from thirty-five 

countries. As usual, France, Spain, Italy and Portugal are still in the majority but the New World, 

particularly South America, along with Eastern Europe, also contributed to a significant degree. 

THE UNIQUE VINEYARDS OF BOROVITZA IN THE NAMESAKE BULGARIAN VILLAGE. THE WINERY WAS ESTABLISHED BY 

TWO RENOWNED WINEGROWERS, OGNYAN TSVETANOV AND ADRIANA SREBRINOVA 

THE BEST OF SUMMER 2023 

Our selection, tasted and scored by our tasting panel, is presented on pages 119 to 130. As is customary for 

us, we have chosen to present the wines by country (Bulgaria, Italy…), then by appellation in each region, 

with each winery or chateau listed by alphabetical order and in descending of the scores awarded. This 

issue therefore features our selection of Bulgarian wines, Italian whites, outstanding Provence wines, South 

African Sauvignons and Spanish rosés, the rising star of the international marketplace 

THE TASTING PANEL: 

PHILIPPE GAILLARD - FRANÇOIS GILBERT - SYLVAIN PATARD 

OLIVIER DELORME - JAMES TURNBULL - BRUNO MICHAL - MATTHIEU GAILLARD - FRANÇOIS BEZUIDENHOUT 


119

BULGARIA - DUNAWSKA RAVNINA 

OUR SUMMER SELECTION 

BULGARIA 

Long confined to mass-produced wines 

designed to supply the Soviet market, 

Bulgaria’s wine industry burgeoned in 

the 1990s, offering both international 

varietals and very exotic native vines. 

With a relatively small area under 

vine and low export levels, this is 

probably one of the last East European 

wine producer countries waiting to be 

discovered. 

DANUBIAN PLAIN 

DUNAWSKA RAVNINA 

BOROVITZA 90/100 

CR D CUVÉE BELLA RADA 2021: Pale golden 

yellow. Delicate nose of acidulous white fruit, 

acacia flowers and lime blossom. The palate 

restates these flavours while adding some 

quality oak and tight-wound persistence. A wellmade 

effort to open with food. 

https://borovitzawinery.com/en/ Price: € 11.00 

Borovitza Winery +359 887 410 619 


CR D MRV CANYON PARK 2020: Pale 

yellow. Pleasant nose of ripe white-flesh fruit 

over a tight-wound floral backdrop. Fruit-driven 

palate of great delicacy, with a delicious mineral 

dimension. A harmonious, graceful offering to 

serve with fish starters. 

https://borovitzawinery.com/en/ Price: € 15.00 



CR D GAMZA 2018 

https://borovitzawinery.com/en/ Price: 9.50 


SVISHTOV V.D.G. 

ROUGH DAY 87/100 

D PINOT NOIR 2020 

https://www.iconicwines.se/english/ Price: € 8.28 

Iconic Wines +46 735 29 30 31 

STRUMA VALLEY 

HARSOVO V.D.G. 

KAPATOVO 91/100 

D SHIRAZ RESERVE 2019: Deep garnet, 

subtle amber glints. Captivating nose of red 

berry fruit, grilled and spicy notes, liquorice and 

eucalyptus. Full of spicy flavour on the palate, 

uncontrived and vivacious, capable of getting 

one dreaming of far-flung voyages. 

http://www.kapatovo.bg/en/ Price: € 25.00 

Kapatovo +359 888 521 444 


D SHIRAZ - PETIT VERDOT - PRIMITIVO 

2020: Deep red. Attractive nose of ripe red 

and black berry fruit with an acidulous note. 

On the palate the wine reveals a delicate wood 

frame, clearcut fruit flavours and a lingering 

impression of crisp rigour. Definitely a wine for 

red meat. 


Kapatovo +359 888 521 444 

VIA ARISTOTELIS 90/100 

D THRACIAN LOWLAND - CABERNET 

FRANC 2019: Deep garnet-red with subtle 

bricking. Generous nose marrying red fruits, 

sweet spices, cacao, eucalyptus and a menthollike 

touch. Powerful, ample, lively palate with 

a velvety texture and great spice characters. A 

stellar, hand-crafted wine. 

https://www.orbeliawinery.bg/en/ Price: € 15.00 

Orbelia Winery +359 884 667 793 

VILLA MELNIK 90/100 

D APLAUZ SHIROKA RESERVE 2019: Dark 

garnet-red, discreet amber tints. Complex nose, 

aeration coaxing out marked aromas of black 

berry fruit, graphite and pepper. Robust, fullflavoured 

and distinguished on the palate, with 

lots of acidity giving zip to the finish. 

https://villamelnik.com/en/ Price: € 18.00 

Villa Melnik +359 898 578 153 

ZLATEN ROZHEN 90/100 

D SANSI FAMILY RESERVE 2019: Beautiful 

ruby-red colour. The nose brims with very ripe 

fruit, spices and discreet gamey notes. Smooth 

on the palate, with the same expressive aromas. 

An accomplished wine, to be opened at the table, 

why not with game. 

https://www.zlatenrozhen.bg/en/ Price: € 10.00 

Zlaten Rozhen LTD +359 899 409 464 


D GRENACHE - MOURVÈDRE - SHIRAZ 

2021 


Kapatovo +359 888 521 444 

ZLATEN ROZHEN 88/100 

D 41° PARALLEL 2019 

https://www.zlatenrozhen.bg/en/ Price: € 7.00 

Zlaten Rozhen LTD +359 899 409 464 


D BERGULÉ VIOGNIER & CHARDONNAY 

2022 


Villa Melnik +359 898 578 153 


D APLAUZ CABERNET SAUVIGNON 

RESERVE 2018 


Villa Melnik +359 898 578 153 

THRACIAN VALLEY 

SAKAR V.D.G. 

ZAARA ESTATE 93/100 

D DOGMA MERLOT & SYRAH & CABERNET 

SAUVIGNON 2019: Deep colour with garnetred 

glints. The nose is delicately woody, ashy, 

with underlying jammy red fruit. Pleasantly 

developed palate providing beautiful and great 

fruit ripeness. Noble maturation, racy tannins. 

A very seductive all-rounder. 

https://zaaraestate.com/ Price: € 17.50 

Zaara Estate +359 886 909 281 


D DOGMA CHARDONNAY 2020: Golden 

yellow colour. Intense smoky vanilla nose, the 

fruit gradually reveals a range of dried fruits 

and white peach. Opulent mouth, elaborated 

in a gourmet spirit with an elegant maturation. 

Freshness prevails through the finish. 

Beautifully crafted. 


Zaara Estate +359 886 909 281 

ROSALEA 91/100 

D WRITER’S WINE 2021: Ruby red, purple 

glints. Inviting nose of red and black berry 

fruit combined with floral touches. Robust 

attack then very tannic through till the finish. 

A complex yet still hesitant young wine to enjoy 

with spicy food. Needs decanting. 

https://www.rosaleawine.com/ Price: € 13.00 

Rosalea Winery +359 877 911 937 


D DOGMA SYRAH & CABERNET FRANC & 

CARMENERE 2020: Deep red with brownish 

ruby glints. Bouquet of ripe red and black 

120 SUMMER 2023 GILBERT & GAILLARD – THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

BULGARIA - THRACIAN VALLEY 


fruits with a spicy earthy undertone. The palate 

confirms this intensity and aromatic density. 

Balance, suppleness, length, powdery tannins. 

All the qualities to seduce for quite some time. 


Zaara Estate +359 886 909 281 

IVO VARBANOV 90/100 

CONV D SYRAH RHAPSODY IN BLUE 2016: 

Deep garnet-red colour, tile-red reflections. 

Nose of black fruits (blackberry, blackcurrant), 

touches of humus, undergrowth and liquorice. 

Powerful attack, both full-bodied and velvety, 

consistent with the nose, nice powdery tannins. 

Beautiful ensemble. 

http://www.ivovarbanov.com Price: € 27.00 

Vitis Vinifera Ltd. (Ivo Varbanov Wines) +359 888 566 438 

ROSALEA 90/100 

D ROSALEA CHARDONNAY 2021: Bright, 

pale gold, green tints. aromatic nose of white 

fruit, smoky and mineral notes and a touch 

of lime blossom. Round, rich and silky on the 

palate, reiterating the nose with energy and 

persistence. A lovely Chardonnay which speaks 

of its origins. 

https://www.rosaleawine.com/ Price: € 7.00 

Rosalea Winery +359 877 911 937 

BRATANOV 89/100 

CONV D 3 RED BLEND 2018 

https://age.bratanov.wine/ Price: € 18.00 

Bratanov Winery +359 889 008 860 

IVO VARBANOV 89/100 

CONV D VIOGNIER CRYSTAL SILENCE 

2019 

http://www.ivovarbanov.com Price: € 20.00 

Vitis Vinifera Ltd. (Ivo Varbanov Wines) +359 888 566 438 

BRATANOV 87/100 

CONV D SYRAH SANS BARRIQUE 2019 

https://age.bratanov.wine/ Price: € 9.00 

Bratanov Winery +359 889 008 860 

THRACIAN VALLEY 

EMINE 92/100 

D SHIRAZ 2019: Concentrated red with ruby 

tints. Liquoricy, smoky nose with jammy black 

fruit notes and peppery spices. Spontaneous 

flavours are thrown up on the palate, with noble 

oak influence and well-established tannins. 

Chiselled, fruit-driven finish. A concentrated 

wine with real character. 

http://www.vinexbg.com/en/index Price: € 8.00 

Vinex Slavyantsi +359 885 226 150 

SOLI 92/100 

D ROUGE 2020: Fairly deep colour 

with ruby-brown tints. Nose of wild berries 

underpinned by a spicy, vegetal backbone. 

Generous aromatics on the palate with sweet 

tannins and a delicate, gentle fruit feel. Sappy, 

persistent finish. Hits all the right notes. 

https://www.emiroglio-wine.com/en/ Price: € 7.00 

Edoardo Miroglio Winery +359 2 426 39 95 

SOLI 92/100 

D PINOT NOIR 2020: Light red with brown 

highlights. Ripe nose with jammy cherries, sweet 

spices and tobacco. The palate is strengthened 

by vibrant mature fruit, sustained aromatic 

intensity and rounded tannins. A spectacular 

Pinot noir with a sleek finish. 



A LOW-CROPPING ORGANIC VINEYARD AT THE 

IVO VARBANOV WINERY. 

CHÂTEAU AVLI 91/100 

D SYRAH 2020: Dark ruby-red, purple tints, 

very viscous. Fine nose of black berry fruit, 

touches of graphite and pepper. Complex and 

velvety on the palate, a heady, imposing wine 

of faultless balance which will hold its own 

alongside some grilled rib of beef. 

http://www.avli.bg Price: 12.50 

Château Avli Trade +359 888 191 611 

MAVRUD & RUBIN 91/100 

ORG D BIO 2020: Deep red with rubybrown 

tints. Nose of violets and jammy berries 

with a mineral, smoky touch. Structured, robust 

palate with noble tannins. A vegetal element 

brushes up against fleshy fruit. Pairs with 

marinated meats. 



SOLI 91/100 

D MERLOT 2020: Light red with brownlike 

tints. Nose of ripe plums and cherries with 

spice and wild flower notes. The palate offers up 

great aromatic complexity bolstered by mineral 

notes and a finely vegetal backbone. Strong 

personality. 



EDOARDO MIROGLIO 90/100 

D PROMETHEUS 2020: Deep purple. 

Intense nose combining generous, ripe fruit 

with a subtle touch of wood. Homogeneous, 

well-crafted palate, still a little marked by its 

barrel-ageing but full of promise. Keep for 3 

years before serving with meat dishes. 



EDOARDO MIROGLIO 90/100 

D BRUT BLANC DE BLANCS 2018: Bright 

yellow gold, green tints. Clear-cut nose evoking 

white-flesh fruit and spring flowers. Ethereal 

palate to which copious sparkle confers an 

impression of volume. Beautifully chiselled 

flavours boosted by well-judged acidity, a 

winning recipe. 



EMINE 90/100 

D PINOT NOIR 2019: Deep ruby. The nose 

offers up smoky, toasted accents with jammy 

red fruit notes of cherry and redcurrant. Likeminded 

fruit and oak influence impart great 

tension and a lot of finesse, supported by precise 

tannins. A muscular Pinot noir. 



VIA ARISTOTELIS 90/100 

D WHITE BLEND 2021: Brilliant light gold 

with some green highlights. Endearing nose 

combining apricots, citrus fruits and herbs. 

The palate delivers gorgeously lifted, persistent 

flavours, an ample, tense mouthfeel and 

invigorating freshness. Spicy finish. Absolutely 

beautiful. 

https://www.orbeliawinery.bg/en/ Price: € 12.00 

Orbelia Winery +359 884 667 793 

EMINE 89/100 

D CHARDONNAY 2020 



CHÂTEAU AVLI 88/100 

D PINOT GRIGIO 2022 

http://www.avli.bg Price: € 9.00 

Château Avli Trade +359 888 191 611 

SUMMER 2023 GILBERT & GAILLARD – THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 

121

ITALY - SOAVE D.O.C. 



Soave is a pretty village in Veneto 

fanning out around the base of its hilltop 

mediaeval castle. It has lent its name 

to a renowned white wine appellation 

made from Garganega grapes grown 

using the ‘pergola veronese’ system. 

The variety is perfectly suited to the 

local conditions and thrives amidst 

the rolling countryside. Below is our 

selection of these extremely endearing 

wines. 

VENETIAN 

SOAVE D.O.C. 

FATTORI 91/100 

CONV D MOTTO PIANE 2019: Vibrant 

yellow-gold with green tints. Racy nose 

combining grapefruit, lime and an elegant 

mineral touch. Generous, fleshy, concentrated 

palate boasting great aromatic intensity, superb 

precision, finesse and harmony. 

http://www.fattoriwines.com Price: € 18.00 

Fattori Wines di Fattori Giovanni +39 045 746 00 41 

LA CAPPUCCINA 91/100 

ORG D SAN BRIZIO 2018: Vibrant light 

yellow. Expressive nose offering up a fusion of 

yellow peach, pineapple and a mineral touch. 

Lovely perfumed attack adding some citrus 

flavours to the palate. Gorgeous fullness and 

freshness for this ripe, opulent even, style. Topnotch. 

http://www.lacappuccina.it Price: € 20.00 

La Cappuccina +39 045 617 50 36 

RIONDO 91/100 

D COLAFOGO 2021: Glimmering pale gold 

with green tints. Clean nose suggesting white 

fruits with a vegetal touch. The attack is soft, 

leading to fresh flavours that gain progressively 

in intensity. A clear-cut, thirst-quenching wine 

with a saline finish. 

Price: € 3.70 

Cantine Riondo Spa +39 045 610 43 46 

CASALFORTE 90/100 

D BIB 3 L 2021: Pale yellow with green tints. 

Subdued nose of white flowers and a vegetal 

touch. Good, no-nonsense attack on the palate 

leading to well-defined aromatics with floral 

scents dominating. The finish remains fresh, 

invigorating and pleasant. 

Price: € 8.50 


CORTE ALLODOLA 90/100 

D FLAVS 2021: Brilliant light yellow-gold 

with pale green tints. Nose of white fruits and 

tangerine with menthol touches. Very wellbalanced 

attack on the palate with fresh fruit 

overtones. Clean, very tense finish with tangy 

saline tones. 

Price: € 6.60 

Corte Allodola +39 045 617 59 15 


D COLLE MARIANNA 2020: Pale straw-gold 

with green tints. Perfumed nose offering up 

flowers and fruit (acacia, rose, apple and bush 

peach). The palate is complex yet refreshing with 

beautiful zippy fruitiness accented by citrus 

zest. Mellow texture and a dynamic finish. Set 

aside for exotic foods. 



TENUTA SANTA MARIA 90/100 

CR D LEPIGA SOAVE 2021: Pale yellow 

with green tints. The nose offers up a ripe fruit 

introduction, midway between white fruits, 

dried fruits and citrus. The palate is mouthfilling 

and generously flavoured with great 

aromatic tension to finish. Very enjoyable 

exuberance. Set aside for delicacies. 

http://www.tenutasantamaria.wine Price: € 12.00 

Tenuta Santa Maria di Gaetano Bertani +39 0456020744 

RIONDO 89/100 

D COLAFOGO 2022 

Price: € 6.50 


THE FAMOUS AND TYPICAL ‘PERGOLA VERONESE’ GROWING SYSTEM. 


ITALY - SOAVE SUPERIORE D.O.C.G. 


EXCEPTIONAL VINEYARD SCENERY FROM THE OLD TOWN OF SOAVE. 


D CLASSICO - FLAVS 2020 

Price: € 12.40 


FLAVS 88/100 

D 2022 

Price: € 7.10 


LA CAPPUCCINA 88/100 

ORG D SOAVE 2020 

http://www.lacappuccina.it Price: € 12.00 

La Cappuccina +39 045 617 50 36 

ROCCA VINI 88/100 

D 2021 

http://www.roccavini.com Price: € 2.90 

Rocca Vini +39 039 65 01 51 


CONV D DANIELI SOAVE 2020 



SARTORI 87/100 

ORG D 2020 

http://www.sartorinet.com Price: € 6.50 

Casa Vinicola Sartori +39 045 60 28 011 


D BRUT 2022 

Price: € 7.60 



D MILLESIMATO BRUT 2021 

Price: € 4.00 


NATALE VERGA 86/100 

D 2021 

http://www.verga.it Price: € 4.00 

Casa Vinicola Natale Verga +39 044 464 81 80 

SOAVE D.O.C. CLASSICO 

CANTINA DEL CASTELLO 90/100 

CONV D PRESSONI 2019: Attractive golden 

yellow colour. Pleasant nose suggesting ripe 

white-fleshed fruits. More complex on the palate 

with lots of substance and delicacy, and fruity 

flavours complemented by mild spices. Long, 

fresh finish. 

http://www.cantinacastello.it Price: € 11.00 

Cantina del Castello +39 045 768 00 93 


D FLAVS 2021: Brilliant pale yellow with 

green tints. Promising nose marrying green 

stone fruits and delicate floral and mineral 

notes. Silky, smooth palate delivering the 

same fruit flavours with intensity. The ethereal 

structure shows elegant fullness. 

Price: € 7.00 


CANTINA VALPOLICELLA NEGRAR 89/100 

D 2022 

http://www.cantinanegrar.it Price: € 5.30 

Cantina Valpolicella Negrar +39 045 601 43 00 

CANTINA DEL CASTELLO 88/100 

CONV D CASTELLO 2021 

http://www.cantinacastello.it Price: € 8.50 

Cantina del Castello +39 045 768 00 93 

SOAVE SUPERIORE D.O.C.G. 

VILLA ERBICE 90/100 

D PANVINIO 2021: Pale gold. Fruit-driven 

nose which develops a touch of almonds with 

aeration. Then reveals a fine, silky texture which 

caresses the palate, as the wine demonstrates a 

refreshing, expressive style reiterating the same 

tasty flavours. Well made. 

http://www.villaerbice.it Price: € 15.00 

Villa Erbice +39 045 888 00 86 


123

PROVENCE - COTEAUX D’AIX EN PROVENCE 


PROVENCE 

Provence and its easy-going lifestyle – a 

combination of blue skies, sunshine and 

wafts of sea air – need no introduction. 

We have selected ten must-visit spots 

(pages 10 to 24) offering both visual 

pleasure and taste-fuelled experiences. 

Here are the wines crafted by these 

‘dream’ producers. 

PROVENCE 

COTEAUX D’AIX EN PROVENCE 

CHÂTEAU DE FONSCOLOMBE 88/100 

D ESQUISSE 2022 

http://www.chateauparadis.fr Price: € 7.50 

Château Paradis +33 4 94 47 96 13 

COTEAUX VAROIS EN 

PROVENCE 

BASTIDE DE MARGÜI 92/100 

ORG D MILLÉSIME 2022: Pale orangeypink. 

Elegant nose showing a mix of sweet 

spices, nuts and wild strawberries. The palate 

sparkles, with bright, elegant flavours and a 

fleshy, sappy feel, freshness and rare aromatic 

depth. A high-end rosé. 

http://www.chateaumargui.com Price: € 29.00 

Château Margüi +33 6 10 26 56 25 

CANTARELLE 89/100 

D MILLÉSIME 2021 

Price: € 6.50 

Cap Wine Provence +33 4 94 80 96 01 

CÔTES DE PROVENCE 

BENJAMIN MEÏ 90/100 

D MILLÉSIME 2022: Very light orangey hue. 

Pleasant nose delivering a fusion of red fruits, 

mixed spices, gingerbread and grapefruit. The 

palate is robust, ripe and plump with lovely 

appetising flavours and intensity. Harmonious 

through to the end. Delicious with cold meats. 

http://www.pwm.fr Price: € 12.95 

Provence Wine Maker +33 4 42 61 97 36 

CHÂTEAU ROUBINE 90/100 

ORG D CHÂTEAU 2022: Clear, light, 

orangey hue. The nose opens up gradually after 

airing to mineral tones, citrus fruits and a faint 

A LOVELY TRAIL FOR TOURING THE VINEYARDS AT DOMAINE DES FÉRAUD. 

spicy touch. The palate shows good freshness, 

texture and very clear characters. The finish 

stays fresh, elegant and very focused. 

http://www.chateauroubine.com Price: € 16.90 

Château Roubine +33 4 94 85 94 94 

DOMAINE DES FÉRAUD 90/100 

ORG D CUVÉE PRESTIGE 2022: Pale orange 

hue. Delicate nose showing tones of gunflint 

and red berry fruits. Fruity, fleshy attack on the 

palate displaying great precision which clearly 

heads towards citrus fruits on the finish. A topflight, 

ethereal and persistent rosé. 

https://www.domainedesferaud.com/ Price: € 14.00 

Domaine des Féraud +33 4 94 73 03 12 

FAUVETTE 88/100 

CONV D MILLÉSIME 2022 

http://www.chateau-la-grande-bauquiere.com Price: € 7.20 

Château la Grande Bauquière +33 4 67 65 79 95 

CÔTES DE PROVENCE FRÉJUS 

CHÂTEAU PAQUETTE 89/100 

ORG D ANGÉLICO 2021 

Price: € 10.90 

Château Paquette +33 4 94 40 87 90 

CÔTES DE PROVENCE LA 

LONDE 

CHÂTEAU VERT 90/100 

ORG D SÉDUCTION 2022: Salmon-hued 

blush pink. Fine, fresh nose combining citrus 

fruits, red berry fruits and floral undertones. 

The palate is seductively mouth-filling and soft 

with a fine texture and freshness. Great fruit 

presence underscored by spices in this beautiful 

rosé. 

http://www.chateau-vert.com Price: € 14.50 

Domaine de Chateauvert - Robert Ghigo +33 4 94 66 80 59 


SOUTH AFRICA - ROBERTSON 


SOUTH AFRICA 

What finer example of site-expressive 

wines can you find? Sauvignon blanc 

epitomises purity, with its freshness 

and herbal, floral and fruity aromas. It 

is probably the easiest varietal to pair 

with food, effortlessly switching from 

an impromptu aperitif to grilled fish, 

salads or cheeses. We head off for a road 

trip through the land of the Western 

Cape, Sauvignon blanc style. 

NORTHERN CAPE 

CENTRAL ORANGE RIVER 

THE HEDGEHOG 89/100 

D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2023 

http://www.orangeriverwines.com Price: € 6.46 

Orange River Cellars +27 54 337 8800 

CENTRAL ORANGE RIVER - 

KAKAMAS 

LYRA QUASAR 92/100 

D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2022: Yellow straw. 

Grenadilla and stone fruit on the rich nose. 

Palate is full and layered with yellow fruit, 

litchi and dried apricot. Layared and complex, 

although somewhat austere.. Drink through 

2028. 

http://www.orangeriverwines.com Price: € 9.43 

Orange River Cellars +27 54 337 8800 

WESTERN CAPE 

CEDERBERG 

CEDERBERG 91/100 

D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2022: Light yellow. 

Capsicum and canned peas on the nose. Palate 

is crisp and dry with a lovely herbaceous note 

following on the flinty aftertaste. A layered and 

complex wine that will age well. Drink through 

2027. 

Price: € 13.50 

Cederberg Wines Cellar +27 27 482 2827 

CERES 

THEUNISKRAAL 89/100 


Price: € 4.00 

Theuniskraal +27 23 230 0689 

WESTERN CAPE 

PAULINA’S RESERVE 92/100 

D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2022: Light straw. 

Vanilla and butterscotch nose with hints of 

green apple. Full and rich on the palate with a 

touch of citrus and a pithy note on the lengthy 

aftertaste. A serious wine that is made to age. 

Drink through 2028. 

http://www.ricketybridgewinery.com Price: € 11.00 

Rickety Bridge Winery +27 21 8762 129 

ASLINA WINES 91/100 


Herbaceous nose with capsicum and asparagus. 

Canned peas and litchi on the ripe palate 

with some yellow fruit and granadilla on the 

aftertaste. Layered and complex. Drink through 

2025. 

Price: € 6.73 

Aslina Wines +27 21 808 1763 

DURBANVILLE HILLS 91/100 

D COLLECTORS RESERVE SAUVIGNON 

BLANC 2022: Light straw yellow with green 

rim. Asparagus, fig preserve and fresh pear 

bouquet. Carries well to palate. Great freshness, 

complimented by evolved characteristics. 

Balanced mid palate and superb length. Will 

benefit from further cellaring. 

http://www.distell.co.za Price: € 9.00 

Distell +27 21 8865640 

BALANCE CLASSIC 89/100 

D SAUVIGNON BLANC/ SEMILLON 2023 

http://www.overhex.com Price: € 4.00 

Overhex Wines +27 23 3476838 

PETER FALKE 89/100 


http://www.peterfalkewines.com Price: € 8.00 

Peter Falke Wines +27 21 881 3677 

CAPE RESERVE 88/100 


Price: € 65.00 

Boland Wine +27 73 537 5295 

BALANCE WINEMAKER’S SELECTION 

87/100 




THE WILD WOMAN 87/100 


Price: € 7.00 

Opstal Estate +27 23 344-3001 

CAPE POINT VINEYARDS 86/100 


Price: € 6.00 

Cape Point Vineyards +27 21 789 0900 

KOELENBOSCH 86/100 


Price: € 4.00 

Koelenhof Winery + 27 21 8652020 

STONECROSS 86/100 


http://www.deetlefs.com Price: € 4.50 

Deetlefs Wine Estate +27 23 349 1260 

STELLENBOSCH GOLD 85/100 


Price: € 3.50 

Koelenhof Winery + 27 21 8652020 

WESTERN CAPE - BREEDE 

RIVER VALLEY 

BREEDEKLOOF 

SILKBUSH 90/100 


Gooseberry and lime on the fragrant nose. Fruit 

forward on the palate with litchi, gooseberry and 

citrus following the nose. Lengthy and layered 

on the crisp aftertaste. Drink through 2027. 

Price: € 5.50 

Silkbush Mountain Vineyards +27 83 629 1735 

DU PREEZ ESTATE 85/100 


Price: € 3.50 

Du Preez Estate +27 23 349 1995 

DU TOITSKLOOF 85/100 


http://www.dutoitskloof.co.za Price: € 7.00 

Du Toitskloof Wines +27 23 349 1601 

ROBERTSON 

THE RIVER COLLECTION 90/100 

D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2023: Pale yellow. 

Grenadilla and gooseberry nose with hints of 

litchi. Tropical fruit and crisp acidity on the fruit 

forward palate. Uncomplex and easy, but layered 

on the aftertaste. Drink through 2026. 

http://www.bonnievalewines.co.za/ Price: € 7.20 

Bonnievale Winery +27 23 616 2795 


125

SOUTH AFRICA- ROBERTSON - BONNIEVALE 


A FANTASTIC VIEWPOINT FROM A SAUVIGNON BLANC VINEYARD. 

BON COURAGE ESTATE 88/100 

D THE GOOSEBERRY BUSH SAUVIGNON 

BLANC 2022 

Price: € 4.86 

Bon courage Estate +27 23 626 4178 

BONNIEVALE WINERY 87/100 


http://www.bonnievalewines.co.za/ Price: € 7.20 

Bonnievale Winery +27 23 616 2795 

ROBERTSON - BONNIEVALE 

LOZÄRN 86/100 

CR D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2023 

Price: € 5.49 

Lozärn Wines +27 82 576 8093 

WESTERN CAPE - CAPE 

SOUTH COAST 

CAPE AGULHAS - ELIM 

QUION ROCK 93/100 

D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2023: Light yellow 

with a green tinge. Sweaty nose with litchi and 

passion fruit. Green and herbacious palate with 

a touch of apple and pear. Elegantly integrated 

acidity. Layered and complex. Drink through 

2028. 

http://www.quoinrock.com Price: € 7.50 

Quoin Rock +27 21 888 4740 

GHOST CORNER 92/100 

D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2022: Yellow 

straw. Herbaceous nose with capsicum and 

canned asparagus. Palate is crisp and dry with a 

delicious granny smith apple note and a layered 

finish with canned peas and wax. Drink through 

2028. A fine wine. 

Price: € 26.00 


STRANDVELD 92/100 

D POFADDER SAUVIGNON BLANC 2022: 

Light yellow. Gooseberry and litchi on the fruit 

forward nose. Palate is tangy and rich with 

passion fruit and tropical notes following from 

the nose. Aftertaste is lengthy and layered with a 

well-integrated acidity on the finish. Excellent. 

http://www.strandveld.co.za Price: € 9.02 

Strandveld Vineyards +27 28 482 1902 

LOMOND 91/100 

D LOMOND SAUVIGNON BLANC 2023: 

Light yellow. Gooseberry and capsicum on the 

fruit-forward nose. Medium to full palate with 

canned peas and herbaceous notes following the 

nose. A crisp and refreshing classic Sauvignon 

Blanc. Drink through 2027. 

Price: € 6.00 

Lomond Wines +27 28 388 0095 

LOMOND 90/100 

D PINCUSHION SAUVIGNON BLANC 

2022: Light straw. Canned peas and apricot on 

the rich nose. A medium bodied wine with peach 

and apricot on the palate and a well integrated 

acidity on the lengthy aftertaste. A layered wine. 


Price: € 12.50 

Lomond Wines +27 28 388 0095 

ELGIN 

IONA 93/100 

CR D WILD FERMENT SAUVIGNON BLANC 

2022: Pale yellow. Gooseberry and litchi on the 

nose. Palate is complex and layered with stone 

fruit, grapefruit and tangy passion fruit on the 

lengthy aftertaste. Excellent. Drink through 

2028. 

Price: € 12.93 

Iona Wines +27 28 284 9678 

PAUL CLUVER 91/100 


Sweaty nose with hints of canned peas. Medium 

palate with a crisp and refreshing citrus note 

on the lengthy aftertaste. Herbaceous notes 

follow from the nose. Elegant and layered. Drink 

through 2027. 

https://www.cluver.com/ Price: € 5.50 

Paul Cluver Wines +27 21 844 0605 


SOUTH AFRICA - COASTAL REGION 


IONA 88/100 

D ELGIN HIGHLANDS SAUVIGNON BLANC 

2022 

Price: € 8.86 

Iona Wines +27 28 284 9678 

SUTHERLAND 88/100 


http://www.thelema.co.za Price: € 6.43 

Thelema Mountain Vineyards +27 21 885 1924 

WATERFORD ESTATE 87/100 


http://www.waterfordestate.co.za Price: € 7.50 

Waterford Estate +27 21 880 5300 

HERBERTSDALE 

JAKKALSVLEI 87/100 


http://jwww.akkalsvlei.co.za Price: € 4.55 

Jakkalsvlei Vineyards +27 44 333 0222 

OVERBERG 

SEVEN SPRINGS VINEYARDS 89/100 


Price: € 6.37 

Seven Springs Vineyards +27 28 316 4994 

PLETTENBERG BAY 

PACKWOOD 92/100 

CR D WOODED SAUVIGNON BLANC 

2022: Yellow straw. Herbaceous nose with 

canned asparagus. Waxy and oily on the steely 

palate with a touch of vanilla on the aftertaste. A 

fine wine with a complex structure and layered. 


https://www.packwood.co.za/ Price: € 9.00 

Packwood +27 78 244 9400 

WALKER BAY 

DOMAINE DES DIEUX 91/100 

CR D SAUVIGNON BLANC RESERVE 2019: 

Yellow straw. Litchi and gooseberry on the 

herbaceous nose. Palate is rich and creamy with 

a layered note of stone fruit and apricot. Well 

integrated acidity and a delicious pineapple note 

on the aftertaste. Matured, but still showing 

youth. 

Price: € 9.89 

Domaine des Dieux +27 28 313 2126 

HOUTSKOOL 91/100 


Subdued nose with layered notes of stewed fruit 

and apple. Palate is full and rich with a present, 

but well-integrated acidity. Capsicum and green 

apple on the aftertaste. Drink through 2026. 

http://www.barthoeksteen.co.za Price: € 24.33 

Bartho Eksteen +27 82 920 7108 

MEESTER 91/100 


Asparagus and gooseberry on the ripe nose. 

Green apple and litchi on the fruit forward 

palate with gooseberry following form the nose. 

Crisp and refreshing with a tangy finish. Drink 

though 2025. 

http://www.barthoeksteen.co.za Price: € 8.69 

Bartho Eksteen +27 82 920 7108 

ESCAPE 89/100 


Price: € 13.00 


WALKER BAY VINEYARDS 88/100 


Price: € 13.00 

Walker Bay +27 28 341 0013 

WALKER BAY - BOT RIVER 

WILDEKRANS ESTATE 91/100 


Full and creamy on the nose with a touch of 

vanilla. Citrus and marmalade on the rich 

palate with a granadilla note on the aftertaste. 

A full and layered wine that will age well. Drink 

through 2028. 

Price: € 5.00 

Wildekrans Wines +27 28 284 9902 

WALKER BAY - HEMEL-EN- 

AARDE RIDGE 

DOMAINE DES DIEUX 88/100 


Price: € 6.18 

Domaine des Dieux +27 28 313 2126 

WESTERN CAPE - COASTAL 

REGION 

CAPE TOWN 


D RESERVE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2021: 

Light straw. Canned peas and capsicum on the 

rich nose. Full and creamy on the palate with a 

citrus and asparagus note following from the 

nose. Layered and complex. Drink through 2027. 

Price: € 11.50 



D NOORDHOEK SAUVIGNON BLANC 

2022: Light yellow. Subdued nose with hints of 

canned peas. Herbaceous on the full palate with 

a waxy note on the lemon lime aftertaste. Drink 

through 2027. 

Price: € 9.00 


CAPE TOWN - CONSTANTIA 

KLEIN CONSTANTIA 95/100 

D METIS 2018: Light yellow. Herbaceous 

notes on the rich nose. Full and creamy on the 

developed, but youthful palate. Canned peas, 

asparagus and cooked capsicum follows from 

the nose. Layered and complex. Drink through 

2028. 

http://www.KleinConstantia.com Price: € 25.00 

Klein Constantia +27 21 794-5188 

KLEIN CONSTANTIA 90/100 


Green apple and lime on the subdued nose. Rich 

and elegant palate with a slightly tangy note on 

the lengthy finish. Granadilla and litchi on the 

aftertaste. Drink through 2027. 

http://www.KleinConstantia.com Price: € 15.00 

Klein Constantia +27 21 794-5188 

CAPE TOWN - DURBANVILLE 

MEERENDAL 86/100 

CONV D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2023 

Price: € 5.00 

Meerendal +27 21 975 1655 

COASTAL REGION 

ARNISTON BAY 87/100 


http://www.stellenboschvineyards.co.za Price: € 4.00 

Stellenbosch Vineyards +27 21 881-3870 

ORGANIC WINE BY SOPHIE GERMANIER 87/100 

ORG D SAUVIGNON BLANC SÉMILLON 

2022 

http://www.germanier.co.za Price: € 10.00 

Jacques Germanier (Pty) Ltd +27 21 869 8103 

THE MOORING 85/100 





127

SOUTH AFRICA- DARLING 


DARLING 

DARLING CELLARS 87/100 

D RESERVE BUSHVINE SAUVIGNON BLANC 

2022 

http://www.darlingcellars.co.za/ Price: € 3.00 

Darling Cellars +27 74 6834454 

DARLING CELLARS 87/100 

D GUSTUS SAUVIGNON BLANC 2021 

http://www.darlingcellars.co.za/ Price: € 5.19 

Darling Cellars +27 74 6834454 

DURBANVILLE 

DIEMERSDAL 92/100 

D JOURNAL SAUVIGNON BLANC 2021: 

Light straw yellow. Secondary notes of 

asparagus, oak spice and bosc pear. Attractive 

entry, followed by well integrated and evolved 

mid palate. The finish is rounded, medium to 

full bodied. Excellent made wine which will age 

well! 

http://www.diemersdal.co.za Price: € 12.00 

Diemersdal Wine Estate +27 21 976 3361 

THE JOURNAL 92/100 


Asparagus and capsicum with gooseberries on 

the nose. Crisp and refreshing palate with a 

lemon-lime note and granadilla on the finish. 

Lengthy aftertaste with a tangy note on the 

aftertaste. Drink though 2026. 



DIEMERSDAL 90/100 

D SAUVIGNON BLANC RESERVE 2022: 

Light straw colour with healthy green rim. 

Essence of cape gooseberries and hints of subtropical 

notes. Well integrated palate with a 

smooth balanced acid. Some salty mouthfeel 

makes this wine further attractive. Drink now or 

keep for another 2-3 years. 



DE GRENDEL 89/100 


https://www.degrendel.co.za/ Price: € 6.00 

De Grendel Wine Estate +27 21 558 6280 

DURBANVILLE HILLS 89/100 


Durbanville Hills +27 21 558 1300 

FRANSCHHOEK VALLEY 

GLENWOOD 85/100 


Price: € 7.50 

GlenWood Vineyards +27 74 124 5705 

SIMONSBERG-STELLENBOSCH 

THELEMA 90/100 

D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2022: Light straw. 

Subdued nose with hints of green apple and 

litchi. Palate is ripe and fruity with peach and 

apricot on the lengthy and full aftertaste. A 

layered and rich wine. Drink through 2027. 

http://www.thelema.co.za Price: € 6.43 

Thelema Mountain Vineyards +27 21 885 1924 

STELLENBOSCH 

Z COLLECTION 93/100 


Ripe nose with hints of dried stone fruit. Very 

full and rich on the palate with dried fruit and 

apricot. Creamy and layered on the very ripe 

and tart aftertaste. Made to age. Drink through 

2028. 

http://www.zevenwacht.co.za Price: € 27.00 

Zevenwacht +27 21 9005700 

DAVID FINLAYSON 88/100 


http://www.edgebaston.co.za Price: € 4.00 

Edgebaston Vineyards +27 21 889 9572 

VILLIERA 88/100 


http://www.villiera.com Price: € 5.92 

Villiera Wines +27 21 865 2002 

MOOIPLAAS 87/100 


Price: € 7.00 

Mooiplaas Wine Estate + 27 21 200 7493 

VILLIERA 85/100 


http://www.villiera.com Price: € 5.19 

Villiera Wines +27 21 865 2002 

WELLINGTON - LIMIETBERG 

MOUNTAIN RANGE 86/100 


http://www.doolhof.com Price: € 5.78 

Doolhof Wine Estate +27 21 873 6911 

THE GOAL OF KLEIN CONSTANTIA IS TO TRULY UNDERSTAND EACH SITE ON THE FARM AND EACH INDIVIDUAL SAUVIGNON BLANC PARCEL AS BUILDING 

BLOCKS FOR THE BEST WINE POSSIBLE. 


SPAIN - VT CASTILLA 


SPAIN 

Rosés are not front of mind when it 

comes to Spanish wine, and yet they are 

now produced in sizeable volumes and 

are increasingly exported. So much so 

that they compare favourably with the 

finest rosés in the international market 

place and are enjoying a measure of 

success. Need more convincing? Then 

just dip into our summer selection! 

ARAGON 

CAMPO DE BORJA D.O. 

PERLA 89/100 

D ROSADO 2022 

http://www.artiga-fustel.com Price: € 1.85 

Artiga Fustel +34 93 818 2317 

VT BAJO ARAGON 

INDEPENDENT 89/100 

ORG D ORGANIC GANACHA 2022 

http://www.bodegastempore.com Price: € 2.95 

Bodegas y Vinos de Lecera S.L. (Bodegas Tempore) +34 976 835 040 

CASTILE - LA MANCHA 

ALMANSA D.O. 

CUEVA DEL CHAMAN 86/100 

ORG D 2022 

http://www.bodegasantacruz.com 

Bodega Santa Cruz de Alpera +34 967 330 108 

HARVEST TIME IN THE DO MONTSANT AT CELLER DE CAPCANES. 

BODEGAS PIQUERAS 85/100 

ORG D EL PICOTEO 2022 

http://www.bodegaspiqueras.es Price: € 5.00 

Bodegas Piqueras +34 967 341 482 

LA MANCHA D.O. 

MUNDO DE YUNTERO 88/100 

ORG D ROSADO TEMPRANILLO 2021 

http://www.yuntero.com 

Bodegas Yuntero (Coop. Jesús del Perdón) +34 926 610 309 

TIERRA DE CASTILLA 

BOHEM 89/100 

ORG D ROSÉ 

http://www.latue.com/ 

Latúe Bodegas +34 925 166 350 

CRIN ROJA 87/100 

D ROSADO 2022 

http://www.roquetaorigen.com Price: € 2.01 

Roqueta Origen +34 938 743 511 

VITIS TERRARUM 86/100 

CR D ROSÉ SYRAH 2022 

http://www.vitisterrarum.es Price: € 16.00 

Vitis Terrarum S.L. +34 609 03 01 

VT CASTILLA 

GREEN BOTTLE 87/100 

ORG D BIO 2022 

http://www.hammekencellars.com Price: € 2.50 

Hammeken Cellars +34 96 579 19 67 


129

SPAIN - CIGALES D.O. 


CASTILE AND LEON 

CIGALES D.O. 

VIÑA RUFINA 87/100 

D 2022 

http://www.bodegassantarufina.com Price: € 3.00 

Bodegas Santa Rufina +34 983 585 202 

CATALONIA 

CATALUNYA 

CAPVESPRE 88/100 

CONV D ORIGEN 2022 

Price: € 4.15 

Cellers Domenys, SCCL +34 977 67 80 87 

MONTSANT D.O. 

MAS DONÍS 89/100 

D ROSAT 2022 

http://www.cellercapcanes.com Price: € 5.70 

Celler de Capçanes +34 977 178 319 

PENEDES D.O. 

FRAGÀNCIA DE MARTA 89/100 

ORG D 2022 

https://www.ramoncanals.com/en/ Price: € 10.00 

Ramon Canals Canals, S.A. +34 937 755 446 

VALLFORMOSA 85/100 

CONV D CULTIVARE SYRAH 2021 

http://www.vallformosagroup.com 

Masia Vallformosa +34 938 97 82 86 

VINO DE MESA CATALUÑA 

ROSÉ BY HOLA 85/100 

ORG D 2022 

http://www.barcelonabrands.com/premios/ Price: € 4.00 

Barcelona Brands +34 931 191 244 

LA RIOJA 

RIOJA D.O.CA. 

CASTILLO DE HARO 90/100 

D 2022: Beautiful light orangey colour. 

Pleasant nose of ripe fruits accented by plum 

and apricot. The palate offers up crisp aromatics 

brimming with freshness that is very lifted. This 

is a very expressive, harmonious, fleshy rosé that 

even works with food. 

http://www.marquesdelatrio.com Price: € 3.50 

Marqués del Atrio +34 948 379 994 

ALEGRO 88/100 

D 2022 

Price: € 2.25 

Criadores de Rioja, S.A.U +34 941 43 63 04 

TARÓN 88/100 

D ROSADO 2022 

http://www.bodegastaron.com/ Price: € 2.50 

Bodegas Tarón +34 941 30 16 50 

LAGAR DE CAYO 87/100 

D CLARETE 2022 

http://www.bodegasquiroga.es 

Quiroga de Pablo +34 941 37 93 34 

SERRANO ARIEZU 87/100 

ORG D ANTOÑITA PUÑUELOS 2022 

http://www.navarrsotillo.com Price: € 6.00 

Serrano Ariezu A. y R., S.C. +34 948 69 05 23 

MURCIE 

JUMILLA D.O. 

ALCEÑO 88/100 

D MONASTRELL 2022 

http://www.alceno.com Price: € 6.00 

Bodegas Alceño +34 968 780 142 

YECLA D.O. 

ANTONIO CANDELA 89/100 

ORG D LADY B ROSADO 2022 

http://www.bodegasantoniocandela.com/ 

Bodegas Antonio Candela e Hijos S.L. +34 968 790 281 

MUNDO ORGANIC 86/100 

ORG D MONASTRELL 2022 

http://www.bodegascastano.com 

Bodegas Castaño +34 968 791 115 

NAVARRA 

NAVARRA D.O. 

BLANEO 89/100 

D ROSÉ 2022 

Price: € 12.00 

Murua, S.A., Bodegas +34 945 60 62 60 

INURRIETA 89/100 

D CORAL ROSADO 2022 

http://www.bodegainurrieta.com Price: € 7.45 

Inurrieta, S.L. +34 948 73 73 09 

PAGO DE LARRAINZAR 85/100 

CR D ROSADO DE LARRAINZAR 2022 

http://pagodelarrainzar.com/ Price: € 4.90 

Bodegas Pago de Larrainzar +34 948 550 421 

SPAIN (ALL REGIONS) 

VIN D’ESPAGNE 

AUTENTICO 85/100 

ORG D ECOLOGICO 2022 

http://www.covinas.com Price: € 2.00 

Grupo Covinas +34 962 300 680 

VALENCE 

ALICANTE D.O. 

COSTA ALICANTE 91/100 

ORG D ORGANIC & VEGAN 2022: Very pale 

pink, pale grey tints. Expressive nose of whitefleshed 

and red berry fruit. Taut, with marked 

mineral flavour in the mouth, combining 

salinity and elegant bitter notes on the finish. 

A distinctive rosé to uncork with summer food. 

http://www.bodegaspinoso.com Price: € 5.95 

La Bodega de Pinoso +34 965 477 040 

LAUDUM 89/100 

ORG D NATURE ORGANIC VINE 2022 

http://www.bocopa.com Price: € 3.50 

Bodegas Bocopa +34 966 950 489 

UTIEL-REQUENA D.O. 

BODEGA NODUS 88/100 

ORG D ESTÀS EN LA PARRA ... CHAVAL 

2022 

http://www.bodegasnodus.com 

Bodegas Nodus +34 962 174 029 

FUENTESECA 85/100 

ORG D BOBAL CABERNET SAUVIGNON 

2022 

http://www.bodegasierranorte.com Price: € 2.45 

Sierra Norte (Ecovitis·Bercial) +34 962 323 099 


FIND OUT MORE 

ONLINE 

FULL RESULTS OF THE INTERNATIONAL CHALLENGE 

FREE ACCESS TO REVIEWS OF MORE THAN 27,000 WINES 

DOZENS OF ARTICLES ABOUT WINE REGIONS AROUND THE WORLD 

www.gilbertgaillard.com/en

GG_N52_IT

Create successful ePaper yourself

Delete template?

Save as template?