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8<br />
Thursday <strong>July</strong> <strong>13</strong> <strong>2023</strong><br />
Sweetness at start and finish of the day<br />
Nigel Slater turns to<br />
brilliantly colourful<br />
rhubarb and chard for<br />
two dishes that look as<br />
good as they taste<br />
Roast rhubarb with<br />
porridge and oat crumble<br />
Serves 4<br />
Ingredients<br />
800g rhubarb stalks<br />
2 medium oranges<br />
2 heaped Tbsp caster sugar<br />
6 juniper berries<br />
For the oat crumble:<br />
75g plain flour<br />
75g butter<br />
A good pinch of sea salt<br />
50g caster sugar<br />
55g rolled oats<br />
For the porridge:<br />
400ml water<br />
100g pinhead oatmeal<br />
Salt to taste<br />
Directions<br />
Trim any dry ends from the<br />
rhubarb and discard, then cut<br />
each stalk into pieces roughly<br />
5cm long. Pack the rhubarb into<br />
a non-reactive baking dish. Preheat<br />
the oven to 200 deg C.<br />
Cut the oranges in half and<br />
squeeze their juice into a bowl.<br />
Stir in the sugar then press the<br />
juniper berries with a heavy<br />
weight to crack them open, and<br />
add to the orange juice. Pour<br />
the juice and berries over the<br />
rhubarb and bake for about 30<br />
minutes until soft.<br />
Make the crumble: Put<br />
the flour and butter in a food<br />
processor and process to coarse<br />
crumbs, then stir in the salt,<br />
sugar and oats. Drop in 1 Tbsp<br />
of water and shake the bowl<br />
backward and forwards until the<br />
mixture forms crumbs. Tip on<br />
to a baking sheet and slide into<br />
the oven, it can go in at the same<br />
time as the rhubarb. Bake until<br />
pale gold (about 20 minutes),<br />
then remove and set aside.<br />
Remove the rhubarb from the<br />
oven while you make the porridge.<br />
Bring the water to the boil,<br />
rain in the oatmeal and stir for<br />
3 or 4 minutes while it thickens.<br />
Stir in a pinch of salt and divide<br />
between 4 small bowls. Put some<br />
of the rhubarb in each bowl, then<br />
spoon over the rhubarb juice.<br />
Scatter some of the crumble over<br />
each dish of fruit and porridge.<br />
Sweet, hot chard<br />
I have had this as a side dish<br />
for chargrilled mackerel and<br />
with tempura-style fried broccoli,<br />
but it is also good on top of<br />
steamed rice.<br />
Serves 2 as a side dish<br />
Ingredients<br />
For the dressing:<br />
2 garlic cloves<br />
1 stalk of lemongrass<br />
2 hot red chillies<br />
A small (40g) piece of ginger<br />
2 Tbsp vegetable oil<br />
1 Tbsp light soy sauce<br />
1 Tbsp lime juice<br />
1 Tbsp fish sauce<br />
3 Tbsp runny honey<br />
400g chard stalks<br />
3 Tbsp groundnut oil<br />
Directions<br />
Peel and crush the garlic to a<br />
paste with a pinch of salt, then<br />
scrape into an empty screw-top<br />
jar. Peel away the outer leaves<br />
of the lemongrass, then roughly<br />
chop the tender shoot within.<br />
Put the chopped lemongrass into<br />
an electric spice mill or coffee<br />
grinder and process to a dry<br />
paste, then add it to the garlic.<br />
Roughly chop the chillies and<br />
add to the garlic and lemongrass.<br />
Peel the ginger, then grate to a<br />
paste and add to the jar. Add<br />
the vegetable oil, soy sauce, lime<br />
juice and fish sauce, then spoon<br />
in the honey, tighten the lid and<br />
shake to combine to a thin, syrupy<br />
dressing.<br />
Cut the chard stalks into short<br />
pieces, roughly 10cm in length.<br />
Warm the groundnut oil in a<br />
large, shallow pan over a moderate<br />
heat, then add the chard<br />
stalks and cover with a lid. Let<br />
the chard cook for 10 minutes,<br />
turning the stalks over occasionally<br />
until they are tender.<br />
Pour the dressing into the pan<br />
and toss the chard stalks in it.<br />
Let the dressing bubble for 4-5<br />
minutes until it coats the stalks,<br />
then transfer to a serving dish.<br />
– ODT<br />
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