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Southern View: July 13, 2023

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8<br />

Thursday <strong>July</strong> <strong>13</strong> <strong>2023</strong><br />

Sweetness at start and finish of the day<br />

Nigel Slater turns to<br />

brilliantly colourful<br />

rhubarb and chard for<br />

two dishes that look as<br />

good as they taste<br />

Roast rhubarb with<br />

porridge and oat crumble<br />

Serves 4<br />

Ingredients<br />

800g rhubarb stalks<br />

2 medium oranges<br />

2 heaped Tbsp caster sugar<br />

6 juniper berries<br />

For the oat crumble:<br />

75g plain flour<br />

75g butter<br />

A good pinch of sea salt<br />

50g caster sugar<br />

55g rolled oats<br />

For the porridge:<br />

400ml water<br />

100g pinhead oatmeal<br />

Salt to taste<br />

Directions<br />

Trim any dry ends from the<br />

rhubarb and discard, then cut<br />

each stalk into pieces roughly<br />

5cm long. Pack the rhubarb into<br />

a non-reactive baking dish. Preheat<br />

the oven to 200 deg C.<br />

Cut the oranges in half and<br />

squeeze their juice into a bowl.<br />

Stir in the sugar then press the<br />

juniper berries with a heavy<br />

weight to crack them open, and<br />

add to the orange juice. Pour<br />

the juice and berries over the<br />

rhubarb and bake for about 30<br />

minutes until soft.<br />

Make the crumble: Put<br />

the flour and butter in a food<br />

processor and process to coarse<br />

crumbs, then stir in the salt,<br />

sugar and oats. Drop in 1 Tbsp<br />

of water and shake the bowl<br />

backward and forwards until the<br />

mixture forms crumbs. Tip on<br />

to a baking sheet and slide into<br />

the oven, it can go in at the same<br />

time as the rhubarb. Bake until<br />

pale gold (about 20 minutes),<br />

then remove and set aside.<br />

Remove the rhubarb from the<br />

oven while you make the porridge.<br />

Bring the water to the boil,<br />

rain in the oatmeal and stir for<br />

3 or 4 minutes while it thickens.<br />

Stir in a pinch of salt and divide<br />

between 4 small bowls. Put some<br />

of the rhubarb in each bowl, then<br />

spoon over the rhubarb juice.<br />

Scatter some of the crumble over<br />

each dish of fruit and porridge.<br />

Sweet, hot chard<br />

I have had this as a side dish<br />

for chargrilled mackerel and<br />

with tempura-style fried broccoli,<br />

but it is also good on top of<br />

steamed rice.<br />

Serves 2 as a side dish<br />

Ingredients<br />

For the dressing:<br />

2 garlic cloves<br />

1 stalk of lemongrass<br />

2 hot red chillies<br />

A small (40g) piece of ginger<br />

2 Tbsp vegetable oil<br />

1 Tbsp light soy sauce<br />

1 Tbsp lime juice<br />

1 Tbsp fish sauce<br />

3 Tbsp runny honey<br />

400g chard stalks<br />

3 Tbsp groundnut oil<br />

Directions<br />

Peel and crush the garlic to a<br />

paste with a pinch of salt, then<br />

scrape into an empty screw-top<br />

jar. Peel away the outer leaves<br />

of the lemongrass, then roughly<br />

chop the tender shoot within.<br />

Put the chopped lemongrass into<br />

an electric spice mill or coffee<br />

grinder and process to a dry<br />

paste, then add it to the garlic.<br />

Roughly chop the chillies and<br />

add to the garlic and lemongrass.<br />

Peel the ginger, then grate to a<br />

paste and add to the jar. Add<br />

the vegetable oil, soy sauce, lime<br />

juice and fish sauce, then spoon<br />

in the honey, tighten the lid and<br />

shake to combine to a thin, syrupy<br />

dressing.<br />

Cut the chard stalks into short<br />

pieces, roughly 10cm in length.<br />

Warm the groundnut oil in a<br />

large, shallow pan over a moderate<br />

heat, then add the chard<br />

stalks and cover with a lid. Let<br />

the chard cook for 10 minutes,<br />

turning the stalks over occasionally<br />

until they are tender.<br />

Pour the dressing into the pan<br />

and toss the chard stalks in it.<br />

Let the dressing bubble for 4-5<br />

minutes until it coats the stalks,<br />

then transfer to a serving dish.<br />

– ODT<br />

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