GG_N53_PORT_Complet-web_V2

Pedro Campos, the 

winemaker at Adega 

Cooperativa de Guimarães 

ADEGA COOPERATIVA 

DE GUIMARÃES 

OR THE CHARM OF VINHO VERDE 

AUTUMN 2023 

PAGES 120-130 

OUR AUTUMN SELECTIONS: SOUTH AFRICA – 

PORTUGAL – SOUTH-WEST FRANCE – RHONE VALLEY - ITALY

Enter your wines now: en-vigneron.gilbertgaillard.com

CONTENTS 

COLUMNS / REPORTS 

10 

34 

7 

News 

10 

Terroirs 

Bergerac, Fronton, 

Gaillac and Jurançon: 

Variety in a bottle! 

24 

Appellations 

Brouilly and 

Côte-de-Brouilly, 

Beaujolais’ fraternal 

twins 

34 

Export 

How Portuguese wines 

have made impressive 

headway in the global 

market 

44 

Grape 

Stellenbosch: 

crafting a legacy as 

“the other great 

Cabernet region” 

54 

Discovery 

How Lebanese terroir 

and wineries are 

expressions of an 

ancient land 

64 

Nursery 

Mercier Vine nursery, 

where innovation comes 

second nature 

69 

Trend 

Italy’s no and low 

alcohol pioneers 

79 

Discovery 

AOC Médoc: 

the revolution of a lowprofile, 

but innovative 

appellation 

89 

Focus 

ANORA, the birth of a 

wine and spirits giant 

94 

Terroirs 

Beaumes-de-Venise, Cairanne, 

Gigondas, Rasteau and 

Vinsobres, five southern jewels 

in the Rhone Valley crown 

104 

Organic 

Argentina, a long-standing 

tradition of organic wines 

112 

Focus 

Cantine Volpi from ‘Osteria’ 

to cutting-edge Piedmont 

advocate 

117 

Stars & Wine 

Michael Douglas: 

“I discovered and learned to 

enjoy wine in France” 

119 

Contact details 

120 

Autumn selection 2023 

69 

104 

Gilbert & Gaillard next issue 

Winter 2023 

COVER: COURTESY OF THE ESTATES - 

GREGORI PHOTOGRAPHIE 

AUTUMN 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 

3

EDITORIAL 

FRANÇOIS GILBERT - EDITORIAL DIRECTOR 

THE EXTRAORDINARY BOOM OF STELLENBOSCH 

CABERNET SAUVIGNON 

Cabernet Sauvignon has been grown in South Africa 

for over a hundred years, but its plantings remained 

quite limited until the end of the 20 th century. It is now 

the most widely planted red grape variety and the Stellenbosch 

region is its cradle. It has helped develop Bordeauxstyle 

blends which are popular both in South Africa and 

elsewhere, and is now being reinvented in a less powerful 

iteration to produce outstanding wines. 

Stellenbosch offers the ideal soil types and weather 

patterns to produce world-class Cabernet. The mild 

temperatures with sufficient sunshine hours throughout 

the day, soils with good drainage comprising a good 

amount of granite, schist and sandstone, and fairly 

moderate rainfall combine to ensure the variety can 

thrive effortlessly. Elevations across the region range 

from 150 to 600 metres above sea level with an average 

temperature of 16.4°C and annual rainfall of between 600 

and 800 mm, which is virtually identical to Bordeaux! 

Also, even if rain is lacking during the summer months, 

winegrowers can store surplus water for irrigation if 

necessary. And South Africa has some of the oldest 

vineyard soils in the world, which also happen to be the 

poorest and least fertile – adding one more string to the 

country’s Cabernet Sauvignon bow. 

We have undertaken a major series of tastings (pages 

121-124) from which we have selected 55 wines, including 

38 that were rated 90/100 or above so that we can 

convince you once and for all of Cabernet Sauvignon’s 

quality in the region. And it seems pretty clear that it has 

a great future ahead of it! 

4 AUTUMN 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

EDITORIAL 

PHILIPPE GAILLARD - EDITORIAL DIRECTOR 

RHONE VALLEY 

THE SOUTHERN GROWTHS DO NOT DISAPPOINT 

Often overshadowed by the stars of the Northern 

Rhone Valley, the region’s southern vineyards cover 

an impressive 65,000 hectares out of a total 70,000 across 

the valley. This equates to 93% of area under vine, producing 

2.6 million hectolitres in 2020. We thought an area of 

such magnitude deserved to be put in the limelight. 

In the southern reaches of the river, the soils are predominantly 

clay-limestone and very often strewn with their 

hallmark pebbles carried down by the river and its tributaries 

from the glaciers in the Alps over thousands of years. 

The climate is typically Mediterranean and guarantees 

exceptionally high sunshine, in excess of 2,700 hours a 

year, moderated by the most famous wind in the South 

of France – the Mistral. The northerly wind has a significant 

influence on growing vines – it is cold and dry and 

is particularly beneficial during damp spells which can be 

very destructive when summers are very dry. 

The range of vineyard sites also explains why such a broad 

array of varietals is grown in comparison with the northern 

Rhone Valley, which has more of a single varietal slant, 

with Syrah for the reds and Viognier for Condrieu. For 

the red varieties, Syrah is still widely grown in the South, 

alongside Grenache noir, Mourvèdre and Cinsault. For the 

whites, companions for Viognier include Grenache blanc, 

Clairette, Marsanne and Roussanne. 

This extensive collection of grape varieties combined with 

unique local weather patterns paves the way for a varied 

range of wines, even in neighbouring areas like Gigondas 

and Vacqueyras. This, indeed, is where the magic of wine 

lies – once it has passed through the ‘terroir’ filter, it has 

the ability to deliver different sensations, virtually with 

each step you take in the vineyard. 


5

EDITORIAL 

SYLVAIN PATARD - EDITOR IN CHIEF 

THE BLESSED LAND 

South-West France is home to an incredible array 

of vineyard sites and wines. As the country’s 

fourth largest wine region by volume, it extends over 

47,000 hectares and 13 departments. We have selected 

four areas from this huge archipelago of vineyards which 

perfectly illustrate the uniqueness and diversity of this 

land blessed for winegrowing. 

Bergerac is mainly home to clay-limestone and gravelly 

soils, offering the vines a measure of freshness and good 

irrigation due to the ability of limestone to filter water. 

The soils are well-suited to growing Cabernet, Merlot, 

Sauvignon and Sémillon. The wines show proximity to 

Bordeaux, both geographically and stylistically, but unlike 

Bordeaux, they come totally fuss-free. 

Between the Tarn and the Garonne, the vineyards of 

Fronton cover alluvium soils of pebbles, gravel, sand and 

leached sandy-loam known as ‘boulbenes’, along with 

clay-silt (‘rougets’), stones and gravel on a clay base. But 

the appellation’s ‘secret weapon’ is Négrette – 96% of the 

variety’s global acreage is located here – which lends the 

wines their inimitable character. 

The story is similar in Gaillac where native varietals are 

part of the region’s lifeblood. These combine with the 

Mediterranean temperatures, Bordeaux-style humidity 

from the Atlantic and the Autun wind which caresses the 

vines with its warmth. 

In Jurançon, which stems from the formation of the Pyrenees 

mountains, the soils are clay-silt and pebbles. They 

provide a home for grape varieties that can be found 

virtually nowhere else – Gros and Petit Manseng, Camaralet, 

Courbu and Lauzet. The vineyards face South and 

benefit from a long autumn season when the grapes are 

picked by hand from mid-October through to December 

for the late-harvest wines. 

You’d be hard pushed to find greater variety and uniqueness, 

either in France or overseas. 


NEWS 

Have you ever noticed how much 

better fruit tastes when you eat it 

straight off the tree or the vine? 

Why not try our AOP Minervois 

or Saint-Chinian and our IGP 

Haute Vallée de l’Orb wines in their 

homeland, a region of outstanding 

natural beauty stretching 

from the Minervois to the Caroux ? 

www.minervois-caroux.com 

NEWS 

Daniel Aslanian, Marina Rabineau and their niece Marion have chosen to plant vineyards West of Brest, 

almost on the northern tip of the bay, not far from the Petit Minou lighthouse. 

It is an open secret that climate change has paved the way for 

vineyards to be grown as far North as southern Sweden. But 

on the very tip of continental Europe, in such a damp location 

near the sea is certainly a challenge. The threesome are not 

your average winegrowers though – during the week, Daniel 

works as a geologist with Ifremer, Marina is also a geologist 

but with CNRS, and Marion runs a wine exhibition in 

Languedoc. At Le Minou they have chosen to plant Chenin – 

do you know of many Chenin vines planted on granite? – and 

some Pinot noir, from Burgundy. On their steep, 45% inclines, 

basking in the mild climate in the bay, the first vines are now 

entering their third year and are looking superb. Everything 

is grown “more than organically”, with massal selection, no 

sprays and 100% agro-forestry. The first wines are due to be 

made next year. “Perhaps some sparkling wine”, says Marion, 

“but for now we have to work on ripeness”. Watch this space! 

VINEYARDS IN BRITTANY! 

MARION ASLANIAN, FROM 

LANGUEDOC TO BRITTANY 

WITH STEEP INCLINES AND THE SEA 

NEARBY, THE LOCATION IS CHALLENGING 


7

NEWS 

2023 GOSSET CELEBRIS TROPHY 

WHERE INNOVATION REMAINS A PRIORITY 

The trophy now celebrates initiatives or concepts focusing both on tangible and intangible heritage and successfully showcases noble 

ideas in the vanguard of modernity, even if they have been around for decades or even centuries. 

case in point is the Auteuil Apprentices, 2023 award recipient, 

A which was founded in 1866 and launched the SKOLA educational 

initiative for viticulture in 2018, in conjunction with several chateaux 

from the ‘Vignerons du Vivant’ collective in the Médoc. The scheme 

trains 16 to 30 year-olds with no or few qualifications whose challenging 

situation prevents them from being socially integrated. By preparing 

them for viticulture jobs at the partner wineries directly, the programme 

introduces them to a profession, the beauty of nature, the pride of doing 

a job and the strength of being part of a group. 

“Supporting young people who are struggling is the driving force behind 

the Auteuil Apprentices foundation and seeing them blossom when they 

find their niche in life is the greatest reward”, concludes Nicolas Truelle, 

ALAIN BARATON, LAST YEAR’S TROPHY RECIPIENT, NICOLAS TRUELLE, 

the foundation’s managing director. 

KARINE VALENTIN AND JEAN-PIERRE COINTREAU (GOSSET PRESIDENT) 

The panel’s special award this year went to the ‘Osmothèque’. This 

unusual name refers to a project aimed at preventing perfumes of the past from falling into oblivion and to do the same thing with 

present-day perfumes that could experience the same fate. The mission of this one-of-a-kind institution, run by Thomas Fontaine, 

is to identify, collect and preserve the perfumes, but also to track down some that have disappeared and bring them back to life by 

recreating them from the original formulae. The institution is a kind of shared memory of aromas. 

TREASURE HUNT: A FABULOUS €100,000 WINE CELLAR TO BE WON 

The creators of the Unsolved treasure hunt, in conjunction with Château de Vaux-le-Vicomte, Petit Futé guide books 

and over 40 wineries, have just launched Elixir d’Or, an international treasure hunt translated 

Elixir d’Or is the first global treasure hunt for 

wine and heritage. The prize is the wine cellar 

worth €100,000 of the Count of Saint-Germain, 

a multilingual adventurer, alchemist, spy and 

18th century figure reputed to be immortal. The 

treasure hunt is an armchair game – the six short 

riddles written on a scroll can be solved at home. 

The riddles point to an extremely specific location 

in France where a chest is buried. The first person 

to dig in the right place and find the chest wins the 

into seven languages which is open to everyone (except minors). 

cellar and the game ends. The Elixir d’Or cellar 

will be on display throughout the game at Vauxle-Vicomte 

castle, a classic ‘Grand Siècle’ masterpiece, 

where it will wait patiently to be claimed by 

the winner presenting the chest. There’s no rush 

– often this type of game tends to last a long time. 

‘On the Trail of the Golden Owl’, launched by Max 

Valentin and Michel Becker in 1993, attracted 

300,000 players and has yet to be solved! 

https://elixirdor.com 

UNSOLVED SPECIALISES IN 

TREASURE HUNTS 


EDMOND CORNU 

& FILS 

2021 

CHÂTEAU 

SAINT-LAGER 

2022 

FOUR 

WINEMAKERS 

FOR AUTUMN 

2023 

ALOXE-CORTON 

47,70€ 

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1, rue Saint-Saens 

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marseille.opera@cavavin.fr 

DOMAINE DE LA 

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CÔTE DE BROUILLY 

10,90€ 

ALAIN LEMAY 

CAVAVIN ST-HERBLAIN 

Avenue des Thébaudières 

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+33 2 40 63 04 42 

stherblain@cavavin.fr 

BROUILLY 

11,80€ 

YANNICK ARDOUIN 

CAVAVIN ISTRES 

38, Chemin du bord de Crau 

13800 ISTRES 

+33 4 42 47 12 37 

istres@cavavin.fr 

DOMAINE VINCENT 

LEGOU 

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SIMON AUST 

CAVAVIN LAVAL 

14, Carrefour aux Toiles 

53000 LAVAL 

+33 9 77 89 73 95 

laval@cavavin.fr 

CAVAVIN_GG53_PAGE_9.indd 1 28/09/2023 11:26:21 

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Tel.: +33 1 30 80 08 08 - Fax: +33 1 30 80 08 88 

Editorial Directors: 

François Gilbert and Philippe Gaillard 

Editor in chief: Sylvain Patard 

Tasting committee: François Gilbert, Philippe 

Gaillard, Sylvain Patard, François Bezuidenhout, 

Olivier Delorme, Matthieu Gaillard, James Turnbull 

Editorial staff: Michèle Huyard 

Contributors to this issue: Ellen Budge, Camille 

Bernard, Jean-Paul Burias, Isabelle Escande, Hady 

Haydamous, Mauricio Llaver, Sylvain Patard, 

Francesco Saverio Russo, Samarie Smith-Meletiou 

DipWSET, Frank Rousseau 

Translation: Sharon Nagel, Marika Quarti, CS 

Traduções 

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Gilbert & Gaillard is published by Vinipresse, SARL with a capital of 35,500 euros • Head Office: 7 parc des Fontenelles, 78870 Bailly, France • Legal representative and Editorial director: 

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9

BERGERAC, FRONTON, GAILLAC 

AND JURANÇON: 

VARIETY IN A BOTTLE! 

BY JEAN-PAUL BURIAS 

PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY 

OF THE ESTATES - © INFINITYGRAPHIC, 

STEPHAN MEDINA - © GREGORI 

PHOTOGRAPHIE 

It may well be overshadowed by Bordeaux in terms of reputation, but South- 

West France is just brimming with remarkable appellations offering unlimited 

flavour experiences. Still relatively under-the-radar, the appellations are very 

competitively priced and tick all the boxes for a broad consumer audience, both in 

France and overseas. We take a closer look… 

AN OVERALL VIEW OF CHATEAU DE TERRIDE 


SOUTH-WEST 

TERROIRS 

NÉGRETTE, FRONTON’S ICONIC GRAPE VARIETY 

A 

ll four appellations offer some subtle tasting experiences, underpinned by 

their distinctive terroirs and clearly delineated personas. In Bergerac, where 

the varietal range is virtually identical to Bordeaux, differing soil types and attractive 

pricing across all three colours set the appellation apart. Grown on terraced 

vineyards lining the left bank of the Tarn, between two South-West cities with their 

red-tiled roofs – Toulouse and Montauban – Fronton covers just 1,200 hectares 

under vine with 40 independent wineries and one co-operative. Its iconic grape 

variety, Négrette, is produced as a single varietal or in blends and owes its name 

to its black colour. It delivers elegant, aromatic wines showing aromas of red and 

black fruits, violet and liquorice. The vibrant, fresh rosé renditions are also long 

and complex on the palate. Gaillac enjoys an idyllic location between the Mediterranean 

and the Atlantic, its climate combining Mediterranean heat with the 

dampness of the ocean and the occasional Autan wind. These conditions enhance 

the fruit and allow it to reach peak ripeness so that vines can deliver generous, 

appealing aromatics. Here, winegrowers play it local, with varieties such as Len 

de Lel – literally away from the eye – and Mauzac for the whites and Braucol, 

Duras and Prunelart for the reds. Prunelart is one of Gaillac’s oldest cultivars and 

is currently very fashionable. Offbeat dry Jurançon guarantee aromatic freshness 

in their youth, with highly expressive notes of citrus and tropical fruits. They share 

their name with a sweet iteration, suffused with light and amber highlights, which 

belong to France’s prestigious offering of top dessert wines. The varietal staple Gros 

Manseng is complemented by Petit Manseng, Petit and Gros Courbu, Lauzet and 

Camaralet. This unique and extensive collection of varieties is used to produce both 

sweet and dry wines, snapped up by consumers the world over. 


11

SOUTH-WEST 

TERROIRS 

GAILLAC 

MAISON LABASTIDE: 

ARTISAN WINEGROWING 

MICHEL MARTINEZ, THE WINEMAKER AT MAISON LABASTIDE 

MAISON LABASTIDE 

Founded in 1949 and originally called the Coteaux 

de Gaillac et du Pays Cordais Co-operative Winery, 

Maison Labastide has around 100 member winegrowers 

producing approximately 60,000 hectolitres 

of wine. The winery has long-standing roots 

in the heart of Occitania and over the years has 

established itself as a major Gaillac producer. Its 

winegrowers have focused their efforts on the 

distinctive identity that stems from local grape 

varieties and a broad-ranging product portfolio 

which even includes lightly sparkling white Gaillac. 

“Our company combines the craftsmanship of its 

winegrowers with the technical expertise of its 

winemakers, using modern equipment to craft 

on-trend wine styles”, explains winery chairman 

Alain Fonvieille. “Our USP is that we create 

distinctive, authentic wines, many of them single 

varietals. Our hallmark vineyard sites and grape 

varieties, most of which are native to the region, 

produce unique wines and that is a major advantage 

for warding off competition from our South- 

West neighbours mostly”. A range of vineyard 

management techniques promotes great variety, 

allowing the winery to make dry, lightly sparkling 

dry and sweet wines, but also late-harvest or 

early-release wines, reds, rosés and ancestral 

methods. This variety gives the winery access to a 

number of markets, which is not necessarily true 

for the competition. “The price is also an advantage 

compared with other appellations”, claims marketing 

director Arnaud Elgoyhen. “The quality of the 

wines has improved dramatically over the past few 

decades, coupled with a strong artisan identity, 

both of which are genuine advantages for both 

trade and private customers”. 

CHÂTEAU DE TERRIDE: 

OUTSTANDING WINES 

The stunning and unique Château de Terride 

stands like an enclave in its pristine natural 


SOUTH-WEST 

TERROIRS 

surroundings, ringed by Grésigne forest. The 

former hunting lodge was built in 1652 and was 

converted into a winery in the 1960s. It was 

bought by Solange and Jean-Paul David in 1996 

who set about diversifying the business. Since 

2003, it has been managed by their daughter Alix 

with her husband Romain Gérard who focuses 

primarily on the estate’s significant wine tourism 

activities. The 32 hectares of organically farmed 

vineyards are 80% planted to red varieties – 

Duras, Syrah, Braucol, Merlot, Prunelard and 

Grenache – complemented by 20% white varieties 

Mauzac, Len De Lel and Viognier. “We craft 

generous, modern and authentic wines”, explains 

Alix David. “The combination of vineyard sites, 

climate and unusual grape varieties allows us to 

produce characterful and elegant yet also appetising 

wines”. Three ranges are available, all of 

them encapsulating the qualities of Gaillac whilst 

at the same time acting as a skilful counterpoint to 

neighbouring appellations in South-West France. 

The winery’s outstanding labels Ta Main sur mon 

Chemin, Diva and Mystère stand alongside the 

chateau’s Collection with characterful reds, dry 

and sweet whites, rosés, ancestral method white 

and Fantaisies, encompassing dry whites, dry, 

fruity rosés and a light, fruity red. 

ALIX DAVID PRESENTS HER CHÂTEAU DE TERRIDE LABEL, 

A CHARACTERFUL ROSÉ 

JÉRÔME BEZIOS, WITH HIS PARENTS MARIE-JOSÉ AND JEAN-MARIE BEZIOS 

AT DOMAINE LA CROIX DES MARCHANDS 

DOMAINE LA CROIX 

DES MARCHANDS: 

CAPITALISING ON VARIETY 

Domaine La Croix des Marchands epitomises a 

seamless, and relevant transition from pottery to 

grapes. Set in the heart of the Gaillac wine region, 

the winery is located on the site of a major pottery 

centre dating back to Gallo-Roman times, where 

vines have been grown for over two thousand 

years. Established in the 1930s, this family-run 

farm was reorganised by Jean-Marie Bezios in 1975 

with a single-minded focus on winegrowing. The 

first vintage was released in 1983. After studying 

viticulture, his son Jérôme Bezios joined him in 

1998. A year later, the property was extended with 

the addition of Château Palvié broadening the 


13

JÉRÔME BEZIOS AT DOMAINE 

LA CROIX DES MARCHANDS 

TASTING WINE 

THE CELLAR AT DOMAINE 

LA CROIX DES MARCHANDS 

range. “Our advantage is that we work on two out of the three Gaillac terroirs – the 

left bank of the Tarn with its gravel terraces, and the right bank with its clay-limestone 

hillsides”, comments Jérôme Bezios. “The first one yields fruit-forward, 

spicy reds and the second produces more structured, concentrated wines”. The 

winery also boasts heirloom, characterful grape varieties which produce wines 

with a very different flavour to Bordeaux. “Customers today want easier drinking 

reds with ripe fruit and very fine tannins”, comments Bezios. “We export 5 to 10% 

of our wines to Europe and the United States, where customers are very receptive 

to their value for money”. 

FRONTON 

CHÂTEAU BAUDARE: THE ART OF NÉGRETTE 

Château Baudare is an essential stop for anyone wishing to discover all the qualities 

of Fronton through its elegant, appetising reds and its fresh, aromatic rosés. 

Although it is grown in the Vendée and the French islands of Ré and Oléron, along 

with California, 96% of Négrette in France is located in Fronton. Across the estate’s 

50 hectares of vineyards, the variety, with its intense black colour, is planted on 

three different but complementary soil types – sandy, clayey and flinty stones. 

This variety lends complexity and finesse to the blends. The family-run property, 

whose first eight hectares of vines were bought by Jean Vigouroux in 1882, has been 

managed by fifth-generation winegrower David Vigouroux since 1996. 


THIERRY ROCH IN THE 

VINEYARDS OF GAILLAC 

ALIX DAVID TASTING WINES 

IN THE CELLAR AT CHÂTEAU 

DE TERRIDE 

DAVID VIGOUROUX AND 

HIS FATHER CLAUDE AT 

CHÂTEAU BAUDARE 

SPRING 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 

15

SOUTH-WEST 

TERROIRS 

DAVID VIGOUROUX TASTING WINES 

AT CHÂTEAU BAUDARE 

“The influence of terroir on the appellation’s 

primary grape variety Négrette is huge. The sand 

brings out a mineral edge, the clay instils fruitiness 

and the flint adds spice”, he stresses. “It is difficult 

to compete with our more famous neighbours 

like Bordeaux, but we manage to do so by making 

supple, fruity wines that are affordable and more 

importantly by promoting them tirelessly”. 

CHÂTEAU BELLEVUE LA FORÊT: 

THE MARK OF A GIANT 

PHILIP GRANT, THE OWNER OF CHÂTEAU BELLEVUE LA 

FORÊT 

It is not easy to miss Château Bellevue la Forêt. 

An iconic landmark in the Fronton appellation 

area, this outstanding winery also has the most 

extensive footprint with 112 hectares, making it 

the largest privately-owned, unbroken expanse 

of vines in South-West France. A frequent awardwinner 

in national and international competitions, 

the winery was taken over in 2008 by 

Philip Grant who realised his dream of owning 

a vineyard in France after a successful career in 

corporate finance. “The chateau is located on a hill 

and boasts a unique micro-climate which contributes 

to fruit ripening”, explains Grant. “The soils 

are mainly pebbles which allows for good drainage 

and promotes quality grapes”. The winery 

produces several lines, each with its own characters 

that vary depending on the vintage, the blend 

and winemaking techniques used. Reds account 

for 64% of total production, versus 34% for the 

rosés, complemented by a small amount of whites. 

“Négrette is unique to the Fronton region”, points 

out sales representative Marcelin Clergue. “This 

specificity can appeal to wine enthusiasts who are 

looking for new flavour experiences, complexity, 

balance and character, all of which can compete 

with more prestigious wine regions. Fronton is 

still under-the-radar and offers excellent value for 

money for price-sensitive consumers. We absolutely 

must promote awareness of our appellation. 

Competition between regions must be considered 

as an opportunity to explore and celebrate choice 

in the marketplace”. 


THE VINEYARDS AT CHATEAU LESTEVENIE 

THE OWNERS OF CHÂTEAU LESTEVENIE, PETRIE AND JACO TERBLANCHE 

BERGERAC 

CHÂTEAU LESTEVENIE: INTERNATIONAL FORTUNES 

Serendipity is probably the word that best summarises the recent history of 

this winery. South African natives Petrie and Jaco Terblanche met in New York, 

whilst Petrie was living in San Francisco and Jaco in London, where they both 

had senior positions in embryology and accountancy. After moving to France and 

getting married, they decided to embark on a career change. In February 2022, 

they became the owners of Château Lestevenie. “By a curious twist of fate, the T 

represents the winery’s white limestone terroir – literally white earth – but also 

the Terblanche family name, its French heritage and the vine growing in excellent 

natural conditions”, recounts Petrie Terblanche. “Our terroir is not that dissimilar 

to that of the Bordeaux region. It has a limestone base with varying degrees of 

clay, depending on whether it is on hillsides or down towards the valley”. All the 

vines grow on hillsides where the limestone component favours good drainage. 

The clay in the soil helps maintain dampness for longer during rain-free periods. 

Producing white Bergerac from Sauvignon and Semillon and reds from Cabernet-Sauvignon, 

Cabernet Franc and Merlot, the winery has started exploring 

export markets. And initial feedback is good due to the competitive pricing of these 

quality wines. “Admittedly, we have neither its history nor its name”, comments 

Jaco Terblanche. “But increasingly, wine enthusiasts want to discover and taste 

wines outside Bordeaux. Everybody knows Bordeaux, but now they want to try 

something new. And that’s exactly what we can offer them”. 


17

THE TEAM AT CHÂTEAU 

BELLEVUE LA FORÊT, 

WITH PHILIP GRANT 

THE WINEMAKER AT 

CHATEAU LESTEVENIE, 

RAMON SCHOLTZ DURING 

HARVESTING 

CHÂTEAU POULVÈRE 

18 SPRING 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

SOUTH-WEST 

TERROIRS 

CHÂTEAU POULVÈRE: 

WHERE ROOTS ARE IMPORTANT 

Since 1923, five generations of the Borderie family have woven their story around 

Château Poulvère. This former dependency of Château de Monbazillac was built 

in the 16 th century. Situated in the Bergerac appellation area, this enclave runs 

the gamut from dry white, rosé and red to sweet white appellation wines within 

just a five-kilometre radius. “We are deeply attached to our family roots and its 

history of winegrowing, which is a part of our everyday lives and one that we 

contribute to relentlessly”, stresses Benoît Borderie. “The range of colours we 

produce has become a rarity in France and even around the world. It is a genuine 

token of our winemaking skills but also a worthwhile sales proposition”. Château 

Poulvère produces its six appellations using two or three different winemaking 

techniques. Consequently, it is able to offer up to thirteen variations for every 

vintage, from a range of purely fruit-forward renditions through to the high-end 

offerings with deliberate aromatic complexity. “The current climate is much more 

favourable for appellations like ours”, claims Bernard Borderie. “For many years, 

we remained in Bordeaux’s shadow, but over the past few years there’s been 

a definite reshuffle. French customers, and increasingly overseas clients, are 

now looking for some real gems. The winery’s image has become all-important, 

THE BORDERIE FAMILY AT CHÂTEAU POULVÈRE 


19

SOUTH-WEST 

TERROIRS 

whereas the appellation has been pushed more 

to the backburner and is used to locate the origin 

of the wine and identify the production specifications 

complied with in the vineyard and the 

winery. Bergerac, which was long regarded as 

very run-of-the-mill, now has a much improved 

and dynamic image. This is the culmination of 

many years’ hard work and from this perspective, 

the future for us seems bright”. 

CHÂTEAU LA FORÊT - 

VIGNOBLES BORIE: 

THE PERFECT BLEND 

LAURENCE NICOLAS OF VIGNOBLES BORIE IN THE VINEYARD 

A DOVECOT AT VIGNOBLES BORIE 

Time has worked its magic on the development of 

Château La Forêt. Set in the heart of Périgord, what 

began life as four hectares of farmland at the turn 

of the 20 th century, has now become 80 hectares. 

After taking over from his parents in 1998, Hervé 

Borie was joined by his partner Laurence Nicolas 

in 2011, a former winemaker in Bordeaux. Their 

shared mantra is to produce and mature very 

fruity, site-expressive wines. “What makes us 

different is that our varietal range includes a high 

proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon for the reds 

and Sauvignon for the whites”, explains Nicolas. 

“The Cabernet-Sauvignon grows on clay-limestone 

soils and leached sandy-loam known as ‘boulbenes’ 

whilst the Sauvignon is planted on hillside sites 

with great exposure. They both thrive there”. 

The blends are often varietal-dominant – 90% 

Sauvignon for the dry Bergerac, 90% Malbec for 

the rosé Bergerac and 90% Cabernet-Sauvignon 

for the red Bergerac. “Our appellation is very 

well-known in Belgium for the sweet Côtes-de- 

Bergerac, a balanced sweet wine blended from 

Semillon and Sauvignon”, adds Borie. “The market 

takes up to 20% of our wines. We also work with 

Germany where we are identified more as a wine 

from South-West France, not far from Bordeaux 

but with a more approachable image, consistent 

quality and good value for money. Importantly, we 

are one of the cheapest appellations in France offering 

quality wines and that is definitely a bonus in 

export markets”. 


SOUTH-WEST 

TERROIRS 

JURANCON 

DOMAINE NIGRI: 

WHERE UNIQUENESS IS AN ASSET 

JEAN-LOUIS LACOSTE, THE OWNER OF DOMAINE NIGRI 

SINCE 1993 

For four generations, since the turn of the 20th 

century, the Lacoste family has owned vineyards 

and made wine. It has rejuvenated Domaine 

Nigri, founded in 1685, transforming its dry and 

sweet Jurançon into the epitome of terroir integrity. 

After working as a winemaker in Bordeaux, 

Jean-Louis Lacoste has managed the 15-hectare 

estate located in the lower foothills of the Pyrenees 

since 1993. “The work we do with our fruitforward, 

precise wines with their balanced, meltin-the-mouth 

acidities, but also with the rare, 

forgotten Pyrenean grape varieties is recognised”, 

he explains. 

“Camaralet de Lasseube and Lauzet have only 

gained traction over the past fifteen or so years 

in Jurançon but they have long been grown on 

the estate. We conducted clonal selections nearly 

forty years ago with them”. The two varieties were 

developed initially with 80% Gros Manseng to 

produce dry labels such as Confluence. Since 2009, 

they have offered a unique flavour experience in 

the sweet Hors-Piste label, a one-of-a-kind blend 

of 50% Petit Manseng, 25 % Camalaret and 25% 

Lauzet in the appellation. “We purely promote our 

specific traits, our grape varieties, our vineyard 

sites, our climate and our landscapes with the 

Pyrenees as a backdrop”, says Lacoste. “For some 

media, Jurançon is a flagship appellation and 

I think we are in the upper echelons”. 

THE BARREL CELLAR AT DOMAINE NIGRI 

APPELLATIONS WITH A FIRM 

ROOTING IN TERROIR 

The great variety of French appellations is an 

incredible asset and source of interest for wine 

enthusiasts. Being located close together is not 

necessarily a stumbling block. For many years, 

the four appellations that are Bergerac, Fronton, 

Gaillac and Jurançon suffered from the domination 

of their storied neighbour Bordeaux. But 

now, they have successfully demonstrated that 


21

AN AUTUMN LANDSCAPE 

AT DOMAINE NIGRI 

CLUSTERS OF THE CAMALARET 

DE LASSEUBE GRAPE VARIETY 

they too have resources and more importantly, amazing natural conditions 

and signature varietals. Winegrowers have switched their focus to 

quality, by lowering yields and restructuring their vineyards, enabling the 

four appellations to rank among the finest. “Bordeaux sells nearly 4 million 

hectolitres of wine a year, compared with less than 50,000 for Fronton”, 

stresses Benjamin Piccol, director of the AOP Fronton wine centre. “The 

two cannot be compared in size”. Relatively speaking, though, Fronton 

displays a measure of vitality and is being rejuvenated. For the past 

five or six years, many wineries have been taken over by a new generation, 

and 15% have even been bought by novice winegrowers from other 

regions, creating healthy competition within the region. The nearby city 

of Toulouse has also boosted this vitality, which is shared by Bergerac, 

Gaillac and Jurançon, all of which know how to stand out from the crowd, 

progress and secure awareness. They also benefit from grape varieties 

that are either very well-known or extremely local and help produce novel, 

on-trend wines that pique the curiosity of consumers and opinion-leaders 

alike in export markets. 


4 covers: France, Italy, Portugal, South Africa 

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BROUILLY AND 

CÔTE-DE-BROUILLY, 

BEAUJOLAIS’ FRATERNAL TWINS 

BY CAMILLE BERNARD 


OF THE ESTATES - 

© THOMAS LAMBELIN 

Twins and yet different in so many ways, the Brouilly and Côte-de-Brouilly 

appellations fully illustrate the breadth and depth of the Beaujolais Crus 

proposition. Their location and their name make them neighbours, and yet 

they offer unique defining features that translate the subtlety of their respective 

vineyard sites and can be identified with every sip. 

CHÂTEAU DU BLUIZARD 


BEAUJOLAIS 

APPELLATIONS 

THE VINEYARDS AT DOMAINE DU PÈRE BENOIT 

B 

eaujolais, the land of Gamay, is home to some real treasures, particularly its 

lovely growths or ‘crus’ with their distinctive personas. This vinous treasure 

trove features the Brouilly and Côte-de-Brouilly appellations, which form the most 

southerly growths. 

Covering a sweeping 1,200 hectares, Brouilly is also the most extensive. At its 

heart nestles Côte-de-Brouilly, sitting like a mounted gemstone over its smaller 

310 hectares. The two areas are so close, but their differing vineyard sites reveal 

very different characters. 

Perched across the slopes of Mount Brouilly, Côte-de-Brouilly is famous for its 

blue stones which lend the wines specific minerality, and an almost ethereal touch. 

By contrast, Brouilly, which rings the mountain, offers pink granite-dominant 

soils which impart texture, depth and roundness to the wines, making them irresistibly 

moreish. 

So where Brouilly’s attraction lies in its finesse and fruit, Côte-de-Brouilly generally 

delivers more complex, structured wines combining a crisp mouthfeel with 

more tightly-wound tannins. 

This duality, which stems from unique soils, is also mirrored in the appellations’ 

respective markets. Whilst Brouilly tends to draw an audience looking for a gentle 

introduction to the world of Beauolais, and has long featured on wine lists in many 

Parisian restaurants, Côte-de-Brouilly is a more boutique offering, mainly attracting 

imbibers looking for more racy, structured wines. 

We head off to discover these two Beaujolais neighbours which, far from being 

rivals, are actually harmoniously complementary. 


25

LÉGENDES 

LA MAISON COQUARD AND ITS OWNER CHRISTOPHE COQUARD 

CHRISTOPHE COQUARD, OWNER OF MAISON COQUARD 

MAISON COQUARD: 

“CRUS THAT ARE SIMILAR AND YET SO DIFFERENT” 

With a long-standing tradition of winegrowing, Maison Coquard boasts a unique 

heritage perpetuated by generations of passionate winegrowers. In 2005, a decisive 

turning point in its history occurred when Christophe Coquard returned to 

embrace his vocation as an artisan winegrower. He strove to steer the vineyards 

away from their bulk-only trading activity, successfully securing a place for Maison 

Coquard among Beaujolais’ must-try wineries which produces all 12 appellations 

and 10 Crus. 

“The Beaujolais wine market is thriving”, he explains. “Especially because with 

climate change the wines offer an enhanced flavour experience. Even though the 

region only represents a diminutive 3% of France’s area under vine, the wines are 

enjoying dynamic sales that are offering promise”. 

Brouilly and Côte-de-Brouilly “Crus are similar yet different”, stresses Coquard. 

They are similar because “both appellations share unique granite soils which lend 

their wines hallmark minerality”, but different because “Brouilly is soft and fruity 

and has always featured on wine lists in Parisian restaurants whereas Côte-de- 

Brouilly appeals to a clientele that is already familiar with Brouilly and wants to 

discover something else”. 

Whilst pointing out that “the extensive footprint of Brouilly provides the appellation 

with noteworthy presence in the marketplace”, he stresses that “Côte-de- 

Brouilly enjoys a similar reputation, mainly due to the attraction of Mount Brouilly 

which acts as a beacon for tourists among the Beaujolais growths”. 


BEAUJOLAIS 

APPELLATIONS 

“So, Brouilly is widely accessible, but Côte-de- 

Brouilly has found its niche in wine merchants’ 

and export markets, making a name for itself in 

markets such as Ireland, Canada, Norway and the 

United Kingdom”. 

DAVID RATIGNIER, THE WINEGROWER AT CHÂTEAU DU BLUIZARD 

CHÂTEAU DU BLUIZARD: 

“TWO COMPLEMENTARY CRUS” 

“Château du Bluizard is a very old estate that dates 

back to the Middle Ages”, explains its owner David 

Ratignier. 

After studying in Montpellier, Beaujolais-born 

Ratignier returned to the region and spent 15 years 

distributing agricultural products. Call it coincidence 

or maybe fate, “the company was based in 

the same village as Château du Bluizard and its 

owner was a client of mine”. Ratignier was already 

interested in taking over the estate, if the opportunity 

arose, and he seized that opportunity in 

2008. Overnight, he found himself at the helm of 

a 30-hectare vineyard. 

The task may have deterred some, but as a young 

winegrower, Ratignier saw in it an opportunity 

to learn and innovate. He gradually developed a 

group of young winegrowers, one of whom would 

become his business partner. 

Over the years, he gradually honed his technical 

skills and produced wines that encapsulate the 

uniqueness of the Brouilly and Côte-de-Brouilly 

vineyard sites. “Brouilly’s granite soils yield silky 

wines, whereas the more clayey soils of our Côtede-Brouilly, 

located on the valley floor, produce 

velvety, rich and tannic wines”. 

Ratignier certainly does not view the two Crus as 

rivals but rather as complementary growths. 

“Côte-de-Brouilly has the advantage of offering 

wines that are structured but not at all drying on 

the palate, whereas Brouilly produces very fruity 

and more accessible wines”. 

In terms of respective markets for the twin 

growths, Ratignier comments that “Brouilly is 

highly prized in Paris and export markets, particularly 

Canada, whereas Côte-de-Brouilly sells 

well direct-to-consumers and is gaining ground 

THE BARREL CELLAR AT CHÂTEAU DU BLUIZARD 


27

BEAUJOLAIS 

APPELLATIONS 

in multiple retail”. These are markets where the 

winegrower has his finger on the pulse, producing 

wines that can be drunk when young for multiple 

retail outlets whilst also extending maturation for 

other pours that he sells to his private customers. 

FIFTH-GENERATION NICOLAS MUTIN JOINED THE 

FAMILY ESTATE IN 2014 

DOMAINE DU PÈRE BENOIT: 

“BROUILLY AND CÔTE-DE- 

BROUILLY ARE INCREASINGLY 

ATTRACTING INTEREST” 

PASCAL AND LAURENCE MUTIN 

Domaine du Père Benoit has a long-standing 

family history. Fourth-generation incumbent 

Pascal Mutin is the proud standard-bearer of 

this tradition. “The name Père Benoit echoes our 

surname”, he explains. 

In 1991, he and his wife Laurence took over the 

reins of what at the time was a 12.5-hectare 

vineyard, and extended it to 17 hectares. Joined 

by their son Nicolas in 2014, their ethos is based 

on treating the land with respect and they adapt 

their vineyard management techniques to suit 

each block. “For young vines, we choose tillage, 

whereas for our century-old vines, our approach 

is different”, explains Pascal Mutin. This attention 

to detail is mirrored in the winery’s HVE certification, 

where the environment is given priority 

treatment. 

Brouilly and Côte-de-Brouilly (Ed. 40% of the 

winery’s production) are increasingly attracting 

interest. “Our winemaking methods have changed. 

We have perfected our techniques and this is noticeable 

in the quality of our wines”, explains Mutin. 

Although most of the winery’s output is bought in 

France, particularly by Parisian customers, the 

past two years have seen increased international 

popularity. 

But the winery’s owner is particularly keen to 

highlight the defining features of the two appellations: 

“Because it is more extensive, there is 

greater geological diversity in Brouilly than in 

Côte-de-Brouilly. In the glass, Brouilly wines are 

fruity and light, whereas Côte-de-Brouilly is more 

robust and powerful, reflecting more concentrated 

soils”. 


THE VINEYARDS AT MAISON 

COQUARD 

PIERRE-MARIE CHERMETTE 

SURROUNDED BY HIS SON 

JEAN-ETIENNE AND HIS 

WIFE MARTINE 

DOMAINE DE BALUCE IS 

LOCATED ON A SOUTH- 

FACING HILLSIDE IN 

BEAUJOLAIS 


29

PIERRE-MARIE CHERMETTE AND GUY LASSAUSAIE, THE MICHELIN-STARRED CHEF 

OF THE NAMESAKE RESTAURANT WHO IS A CUSTOMER OF DOMAINES CHERMETTE 

DOMAINES CHERMETTE 

DOMAINES CHERMETTE: “BROUILLY IS ONE 

OF BEAUJOLAIS’ MOST ICONIC GROWTHS” 

Domaines Chermette has a legacy of winegrowing that dates back a century and it reflects the 

history of a family with strong ties to the vineyards of Beaujolais. Genealogical research has 

shown that the Chermette family moved to the region in the 17th century, settling in Vissoux, 

a locality whose name actually stems from the surname of Pierre-Marie Chermette’s ancestors. 

As the owner of the family-run winery, he describes its history with undeniable passion: “In the 

past, mixed farming took pride of place, but for the last three decades, the farm has specialised 

in winegrowing. Our estate now covers around 30 hectares certified HVE3”. 

The vineyards, which produce 4 of the 10 Beaujolais Crus, call for manual care, shunning all 

types of mechanisation, which underscores the family’s unwavering commitment to its outstanding 

vineyard sites. 

But of the 4 Crus that start life at Domaines Chermette, the winery’s owner claims that “Brouilly 

is one of Beaujolais’s most iconic growths”. 

What makes the family’s wine bearing the prestigious appellation unique is that “it comes from 

a vineyard block located at the foot of Mount Brouilly, where the soils are formed of granite 

scree of Carboniferous origin that are more akin to the soils in Côte-de-Brouilly”. In fact, this 

unique geological feature has lent its name to the block – stony – “which has sentimental value 

to us because it is where my wife’s paternal grandmother was born”. 

But in addition to the vineyard sites, the magic occurs in the glass: “Although our wines are 

similar in style to Côte-de-Brouilly, they offer the kind of lightness and softness that is typical 

of our southern location”. The wines are carefully vinted with semi-carbonic maceration chosen 

for the Gamay, as per true Beaujolais tradition, with delicate maturation in large old casks. 

This precision craftsmanship secures a place for the wines in restaurants, both in France and 

Quebec, where their popularity has not waned since the 1990s. 


JEAN-YVES SONNERY, THE OWNER OF DOMAINE DE BALUCE 

THE BARREL CELLAR AT DOMAINE DE BALUCE 

DOMAINE DE BALUCE: BROUILLY VERSUS 

CÔTE-DE-BROUILLY, IN SEARCH OF BALANCE 

Nestled in the heart of the Pierres Dorées area of Beaujolais, on vineyard sites shaped by schist and 

volcanic rocks, Domaine de Baluce is a story of love, for vineyards and between one couple. 

Jean-Yves Sonnery and his wife Laurence launched their wine venture in 1999, naming their winery 

after the combination of their children’s first names, Baptiste and Lucie. 

“In the beginning, our vineyards covered no more than 2.5 hectares and were leased. Now, we have 

15 hectares, 11 of which we own ourselves”, explains Sonnery. From its humble beginnings, ranging 

from cows and cereal crops to grapes sent to the co-operative, the property has now become a fullfledged 

winery that focuses on quality and has a close bond with its customers. 

Since 2019, Domaine de Baluce has sold half of its wines direct-to-consumers and values the direct 

rapport it has established with private customers, wine merchants and restaurateurs. 

The artisan approach is tangible at every stage of production. “We do everything by hand, from 

training the vines to harvesting”, stresses Sonnery. 

The unique location of their vineyard blocks in AOC Brouilly, bordering those of Côte-de-Brouilly, 

lends the wines distinctive structure. In fact, Sonnery makes no secret of his ambition of extending 

into the neighbouring growth, such is his love of its qualities. 

For now though, with the invaluable help of his staff – Maurice and Adeline – and his partner, he is 

aiming to “produce the finest possible wines whose character reflects the authenticity of the terroir 

they stem from”. 

Echoing his belief in the fact that Brouilly deserves patience and attention, Sonnery shuns techniques 

widely used by some growers in Beaujolais: “We believe in age-worthy wines. Brouilly needs time”. 

Although he has yet to produce any Côte-de-Brouilly, he shows deference to a growth that he considers 

to be of higher quality. In fact, he admits that he makes his Brouilly by drawing on winemaking 

techniques used in the neighbouring growth. 


31

BEAUJOLAIS 

APPELLATIONS 

MAISON JEAN LORON: 

“COMPARING APPLES AND ORANGES” 

Maison Jean Loron is an undisputed figurehead South of Burgundy. “Its origins 

date back to 1711”, points out managing director Philippe Bardet. The company 

boasts 220 hectares of vines in Beaujolais and the Mâcon region, where it has a firm 

rooting in its winegrowing traditions. It has a foothold in many growths, mainly 

Brouilly, “an historic Beaujolais growth”. 

At the core of this history, Château de la Terrière and Château de la Pierre (owned 

by Maison Jean Loron), produce three different Brouilly labels that illustrate the 

unique soil types within their respective sites. “Château de la Terrière has pink 

granite soils combining sand and stones with pockets of clay deep down. Conversely, 

Château de la Pierre has distinctive blue stones, more typical of Côte-de- 

Brouilly”. 

But what really sets Brouilly wines by Maison Jean Loron apart is their ripeness. 

“We wait until the Gamay is properly ripe to ensure they reach their full phenolic 

ripeness. This produces fleshy wines with rounded tannins recalling the structure 

of Côte-de-Brouilly wines”. 

FRÉDÉRIC MAIGNET, THE WINEMAKER AT MAISON JEAN LORON 

AND PHILIPPE BARDET, ITS MANAGING DIRECTOR 


CHÂTEAU DE LA PIERRE, OWNED BY MAISON JEAN LORON 

The present-day Maison Jean Loron is proud of its Brouilly range which has enjoyed 

resounding success in France and in export markets alike. Nationwide, a significant 

chunk of production is marketed in the on-trade and the wines are a noticeable 

feature in wine merchants. 

Philippe Bardet is fully aware of the fact that if Maison Jean Loron produced Côtede-Brouilly, 

it could not supply the same volumes: “The large number of companies 

in Côte-de-Brouilly means that the range of wines is equivalent to that produced 

in Brouilly”. He adds, “It’s like comparing apples and oranges because ultimately 

both growths offer wines with differing qualities”. 

NO REAL RIVALRY 

Exploring the Brouilly and Côte-de-Brouilly Crus demonstrates that there is no 

simplistic opposition between the two appellations such is their extensive range 

of flavours, histories and techniques, all of which add layers to the Beaujolais wine 

region. Their differences offer opportunities for wine enthusiasts to discover and 

rediscover the two growths from a different perspective. Their complementary 

vineyard sites, passionate winegrowers and constant changes in winemaking 

methods are all illustrations of the vitality and richness of these vineyard-clad 

lands. Brouilly and Côte-de-Brouilly do not share the same name or identity but 

what they do share is a quest for excellence. One thing’s for sure – neither could 

replace the other. Each one lends its own unique tone to the extensive orchestra 

that is Beaujolais. 


33

HOW PORTUGUESE WINES HAVE 

MADE IMPRESSIVE HEADWAY 

IN THE GLOBAL MARKET 

BY ISABELLE ESCANDE 


OF THE ESTATES 

Traditionally, a large share of Portuguese wines have been drunk within the 

country. But over the past few years, exports have been on the increase. From 

attractive price points to native grape varieties and an extensive product range, the 

reasons for their popularity in the global marketplace are legion. And Portuguese 

companies have set their sights on securing a prime position for their wines 

overseas. 

CONSULTANT WINEMAKER JOÃO PORTUGAL RAMOS INTRODUCED THE WORLD TO PORTUGUESE WINES, BEFORE PLANTING HIS OWN VINES 


PORTUGAL 

EXPORT 

JOSÉ MARIA DA FONSECA’S VINEYARDS ARE MAINLY LOCATED ON SETÚBAL PENINSULA 

T 

he era when Portuguese wines for overseas markets were invariably Port or Madeira 

is now long gone. The storied Douro Valley is now also renowned for its dry, fresh still 

wines, alongside its celebrated fortified offerings. Outside the region, other areas have 

gained traction, like Alentejo with its full-bodied, fruity reds or Vinho Verde and its young, 

crisp whites that have become extremely popular. Despite the fact the appellation borders 

the Port vineyards, its image could not be further removed from that of the neighbouring 

fortified tipples. Sporting a near-on transparent colour, they display trademark acidity 

and faint beading, light-years away from the rich, powerful style of Port. 

Obviously, the contrast in styles acts as a magnet for an international audience, especially 

when the country’s wine proposition aligns with a number of consumer trends, including 

a taste for light, fresh pours and the appeal of ‘authentic’ wines honouring their birthplace. 

Portuguese producers can pride themselves on a long-standing history of making wine 

and have often focused on regionality. In fact, a defining feature of the Portuguese wine 

industry is its wealth of native grape varieties – both red and white – which are said to 

exceed 300 in number. Also, from a genetic perspective, these local varieties differ greatly 

from other Old World cultivars, bar those of the South of France. 

Winegrowers do not only safeguard the typicity of their wines, though. Over the past few 

years, they have also embraced modern winemaking techniques in a bid to improve quality. 

European funding for this has been a valuable resource. The decision to favour a quality 

production model that steers away from productivity has borne fruit – Portugal is now 

the world’s eighth largest wine exporter with exports rising both by volume and value. 


35

DOMINGOS SOARES FRANCO, 

THE WINEMAKER AT 

JOSÉ MARIA DA FONSECA 

The country has successfully bolstered its presence in long-standing markets like 

Europe, the United Kingdom and the United States, but has also diversified its 

import destinations. Present-day wineries have stepped up their communications 

activities in Asia – in countries like South Korea and China – where Portuguese 

wines are increasingly popular. We met five of the country’s wineries to find out 

how they view the changes and their strategies for maintaining and optimising their 

positioning in markets around the world. 

JOSÉ MARIA DA FONSECA, QUALITY FIRST 

José Maria da Fonseca’s vineyards are mainly located on Setúbal peninsula, along 

Portugal’s western coast, where the first vines were allegedly planted on the Iberian 

Peninsula. Although the winery does not date back to Antiquity, it nevertheless 

boasts a time-honoured tradition of winegrowing. Founded in 1834, it is one of the 

oldest producers still operating of the famous Moscatel de Setúbal, the region’s star 

pour which was already being exported in the 14th century – Richard II of England 

was very fond of it. 

Fast forward to 2023 and the heirs of the company’s founder – after whom the 

family-run firm is named – are continuing in his footsteps, honouring the winery’s 

reputation for excellence that has been garnered over its two-century history. It now 

boasts nearly 650 hectares under vine and state-of-the-art winemaking equipment 

on a par with the world’s top wineries. It has extended its portfolio of vineyard blocks 

on Setúbal peninsula but also acquired vineyards in Alentejo and the Douro. 




The winery is constantly moving forward and 

positioned at the cutting edge of research and 

innovation. It has set itself a challenge that 

mirrors its ambitions – to become a sustainable 

firm across its business, in the vineyards, winery, 

bottling facilities and sales department. The 

project dictates the company’s export strategy. 

Seeking out new export destinations is now off 

the agenda – although admittedly José Maria da 

Fonseca-labelled wines are already present in the 

many import countries across the globe. Emphasis 

is now placed on ramping up the company’s 

presence in existing markets, and even more 

importantly, favouring quality over quantity. 

The company exports 50% of its wines, most of 

them red, although recently demand for white, 

rosé and sparkling wines has grown, comments 

Marta Oliveira, the winery’s sales assistant. The 

trend reflects current consumer demand for lower 

alcohol wines. The Portuguese wine proposition is 

extensive and therefore caters to demand across 

the international marketplace. The range is not 

only varied, stresses Oliveira, but also unique 

with grape varieties very seldom found in other 

producer regions. 

ANTONIO SOARES FRANCO MANAGES THE COMPANY 

WITH HIS BROTHER DOMINGOS 

GUSTAVO MONTEIRO, THE SALES DIRECTOR 

AT AVELEDA 

AVELEDA, SHIPPING WINES 

TO OVER 80 COUNTRIES 

Aveleda, the largest producer and exporter of 

Vinho Verde, offers a great illustration of the rise 

of Portuguese wines internationally. Founded in 

1870, the company has been owned by the Guede 

family for 5 generations. Over the course of its 

150-year history it has garnered a strong reputation 

with a foothold in 5 regions across Portugal – 

Vinho Verde, Douro, Bairrada, Algarve and Lisbon 

– exporting to over 80 countries. The United 

States, Germany, Brazil, Canada and France are its 

leading export markets but the company also takes 

a keen interest in Eastern Europe, oriental countries 

and South America, explains sales director 

Gustavo Monteiro. 

Despite its exponential rate of growth, the winery 

has remained true to its ethos – a fine eye for 


37



VINHOS VERDES AND WINES FROM THE DOURO ARE PARTICULARLY POPULAR 

INTERNATIONALLY 

detail. Both in the vineyard and the winery, every 

task is meticulously handled from gentle pressing 

to low-temperature fermentation for example, 

with a hands-off approach favoured. The entire 

business is run sustainably and the environment 

treated respectfully by preserving biodiversity and 

terroir integrity, for instance. 

In fact, concern for quality is at the root of Portuguese 

wines’ success in global markets today, 

claims Monteiro. “They offer value for money 

which is highly valued internationally”, he adds. 

They perhaps lack some exposure still – due to 

fairly low production levels and their mostly 

off-trade positioning overseas – but clearly a new 

trend is emerging”. A noticeable increase in the 

number of Portuguese wines entered in major 

international competitions underscores this. 

Aveleda, which helped secure awareness for Vinho 

Verde beyond national borders, was awarded a 

gold medal in the latest Gilbert & Gaillard International 

Challenge for one of its wines from the 

famed appellation. With its notes of white flowers 

and citrus fruits, it displays the kind of freshness 

that is sure to make it a crowd-pleaser. 

ADEGA COOPERATIVA DE 

GUIMARÃES OR THE CHARM 

OF ‘GREEN WINE’ 

LOCATED IN THE NORTHERN TIP OF PORTUGAL, THE CO-OPERATIVE IS SITUATED IN THE 

MINHO REGION 

Although the historic town of Guimarães – once 

the capital of Portugal – is listed as a Unesco 

heritage site, there is another reason why it now 

attracts increasing numbers of visitors. People 

travel to see its surrounding vineyards, home to 

the Vinho Verde appellation. Nestled amidst the 

lush countryside in northern Portugal, it is the 

birthplace of mostly white wines that are dry with 

faint beading. Their name stems not from their 

colour, but from their youthfulness. Produced 

from early-harvested fruit, the wines are also 

bottled early and should be drunk quickly. 

Traditionally favoured by a local audience, over 

the past few years the wines have successfully 

established a reputation worldwide due to efforts 

by the region’s winegrowers – spearheaded by the 


THE TEAM AT JOSÉ MARIA 

DA FONSECA 

DA FONSECA: THE FAMILY HAS 

HELMED THE WINERY FOR 

7 GENERATIONS AND ITS HOME 

HAS BEEN CONVERTED INTO 

A MUSEUM 

AVELEDA’S NEXT TARGET IS 

TO REACH 600 HECTARES 

UNDER VINE 


39

ADEGA COOPERATIVA HANDLES THE ENTIRE PRODUCTION 

PROCESS OF THE WINES AFTER THE HARVEST 

PEDRO CAMPOS, THE WINEMAKER AT ADEGA COOPERATIVA 

DE GUIMARÃES 

co-operatives – to embrace modern winemaking techniques. Wineries have fitted 

state-of-the-art technology – including stainless steel fermenters and temperature 

control – and now focus on quality. 

Founded in 1962, Adega Cooperativa de Guimarães is a key player within the 

appellation and one of the driving forces behind its newly-minted reputation. The 

co-operative’s vineyards are planted on granite soils along the banks of the river 

Ave. They produce mainly white wines from a variety of grapes such as Loureiro, 

Arinto, Alvarinho and Trajadura. “These varieties are well-suited to the sites in 

the region and fully express the hallmark freshness and aromas of Vinho Verde”, 

explains the co-operative’s winemaker. 

Forty percent of the co-operative’s wines are now bound for export markets. 

Although the war in Ukraine has in recent months put a dent in its upward export 

trend, comments the co-op’s Bruna Almeida, overseas consignments have undeniably 

been on the increase over the past few years. Europe and Brazil were the 

first to take an interest in Vinhos Verdes, but the winery is now starting to export 

to other destinations, including Korea, Taiwan and China. “These are currently 

the markets where we are investing the most, through visits and attendance at 

fairs”, admits Almeida. 

But what is so different about Vinhos Verdes that they stand out from the crowd? 

Their fruit characters and freshness on the palate, along with their varietal blend, 

“which make them quite simply unique”. So now you know. 




ADEGA DE CANTANHEDE, THE TRAILBLAZER 

The first Portuguese wine company to win a gold medal at a prestigious international 

competition in 1997 for a red wine entirely made from a native grape variety – Braga, to be 

more specific – Adega de Cantanhede turned the spotlight on Portugal’s extensive range 

of vine varieties and paved the way for Portuguese wines to enter the global marketplace, 

explains winemaker Osvaldo Amado. 

From the very outset, when it was founded in 1954 by a hundred or so grape growers, the 

co-operative has firmly believed in promoting Portugal’s viticultural heritage to tap into 

export markets. To secure shelf stand-out and assert its identity in relation to its well-established 

competitors, the native grape varieties which lend Portuguese wines their unique 

style have become a goldmine for the winery. 

The traditional grape varieties in the Bairrada region, where the co-operative is located, in 

the Centre-West of Portugal, are showcased. These include Baga – some of the vines are over 

90 years old – Bical and Maria Gomes, alongside other Portuguese varieties that thrive in 

the Bairrada appellation area such as Touriga Nacional, Aragonez and Arinto. 

With such an extensive varietal range to leverage, the co-operative is able to supply a wide 

variety of wines, and this has proven to be a significant bonus in export markets. Its varied 

portfolio – including reds, whites, rosés, fortified and classic method sparkling wines – 

enables it to cater to countless tastes. This is further bolstered by the fact that its range 

runs the gamut, from entry-level table wines to premium pours, securing it a place in over 

20 overseas markets. 

VICTOR DAMIÃO, ON THE RIGHT, THE CHAIRMAN OF THE ADEGA DE CANTANHEDE CO-OPERATIVE 

WITH OSVALDO AMADO, ITS HEAD WINEMAKER 


41

AT JOÃO PORTUGAL RAMOS, 

WINEMAKING TECHNIQUES 

HONOUR TRADITION 




JOÃO PORTUGAL RAMOS, 

A WINERY FOCUSED 

ON EXPORTS 

JOÃO PORTUGAL RAMOS WITH HIS SON JOÃO MARIA 

Renowned winemaker João Portugal Ramos, now 

a household name in the international market, 

has made a major contribution to the reputation 

of Portuguese wines around the world. His 

sought-after wines are produced in four regions 

– Alentejo, Douro, Beiras and Vinho Verde – and 

are the best-selling Portuguese wines in several 

countries. 

The company has always focused on foreign 

markets, explains winemaker João Maria Ramos, 

the founder’s son. “Over the years, we have 

increa sed our export volumes which now account 

for 70% of production”. Traditionally, João Portugal 

Ramos-labelled wines have been sold in the United 

States, Brazil, the United Kingdom, Sweden, 

Poland, Belgium and Switzerland, but they are 

now making a name for themselves in Australia, 

China, Angola and South Africa. The company has 

increased its attendance at international fairs and 

ramped up its sales team to bolster its presence in 

emerging markets. 

But the main driver behind its success is its 

constant concern for quality and its ability to adapt 

to market demand, stresses Ramos. Consumers 

now are increasingly looking for sustainably 

produced, responsible wines, whose credentials 

can be demonstrated, he comments. And at João 

Portugal Ramos there is no shortage of green 

initiatives, from protecting biodiversity to use of 

natural fertilisers, minimal intervention and optimised 

water usage, to name a few. 

Also, the winery has recently invested in wine 

tourism, deemed to be an “extremely important 

resource for helping our wines achieve success 

overseas”, claims Ramos. “Portugal welcomes 

millions of holidaymakers every year and many 

of them want to visit wineries. We want them 

to enjoy a unique experience and that when they 

leave, they look out for Portuguese wines in their 

home country”. The circle is now complete. 

HARVESTING BY HAND IS THE NORM AT JOÃO PORTUGAL RAMOS 


43

STELLENBOSCH: CRAFTING 

A LEGACY AS “THE OTHER GREAT 

CABERNET REGION” 

BY SAMARIE SMITH-MELETIOU 

DIPWSET 



Stellenbosch is the heartbeat of South African Cabernet Sauvignon, whose legacy 

has been nurtured here for over a century, rooted in soils as old as 600 million 

years. This storied region boasts a landscape sculpted by towering mountains 

and nuanced valleys where Cabernet Sauvignon has become inseparable from 

its identity. Furthering its international footprint, Stellenbosch Cabernet was 

founded as a collective, underscoring a decade-long journey of refining Cabernet 

Sauvignon and beckoning the curious Cabernet Sauvignon drinker to delve deeper. 

ALTO ESTATE’S NORTH-FACING LOCATION ON THE HELDERBERG IS DOUSED WITH SUNSHINE, WHILE THE PROXIMITY OF THE OCEAN AND 

SOUTH-EASTERLY WINDS MODERATE TEMPERATURES, CREATING THE IDEAL ENVIRONMENT FOR CABERNET SAUVIGNON 


SOUTH AFRICA 

GRAPE 

THELEMA MOUNTAIN VINEYARDS HAVE SOME OF THE HIGHEST ELEVATIONS IN STELLENBOSCH (UP TO 530M) ON THE SOUTH EASTERLY SIDE OF 

SIMONSBERG MOUNTAIN - THE ALTITUDE AND RICH RED SOILS ARE PERFECTLY SUITED TO PREMIUM QUALITY CABERNET SAUVIGNON 

tapestry of excellence unfolds throughout its various wards, from the high slopes of the 

A Simonsberg and Helderberg Mountains to Bottelary, Banghoek and Polkadraai. Also 

marketed as “The other great Cabernet region,” Gilbert & Gaillard’s recent tasting of Stellenbosch 

Cabernet Sauvignon aptly showcased an impressive collection of wines receiving 90+ 

scores out of 100. These accolades underscore the undeniable quality and artistry synonymous 

with Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon. While generational cellars continue to produce 

gems, younger producers are also achieving recognition. Boutique winery Deux Frères in 

the Simonsberg ward exemplified this trend with their top score of 96 for their 2020 Tribute 

Bordeaux blend, followed by their 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon with 95 points. Since its inception 

in 2008, this remarkable venture has grown significantly, offering visitors the opportunity 

to stay in one of their Villas and be immersed in the rich oenophilic culture of the region. 

STELLENBOSCH CABERNET SAUVIGNON: 

A GLOBAL PERSPECTIVE 

In the world of Cabernet Sauvignon, the distinction between the Old and New World is 

gradually fading, and Stellenbosch stands proudly alongside other renowned wine regions 

like Bordeaux, Napa/Sonoma, Mendoza, Margaret River, and beyond. While celebrated for 

exceptional Cabernet Sauvignon from the prestigious left bank, Bordeaux grapples with 

formidable challenges - its capricious climate frequently depriving the variety of the sunshine 

it seeks. Although Bordeaux’s weather during the Rugby World Cup might have defied this 


45

DE TRAFFORD SITS AT 380M 

ELEVATION, NESTLED BETWEEN 

THE STELLENBOSCH AND 

HELDERBERG MOUNTAINS, AT 

THE END OF BLAAUWKLIP ROAD, 

BRIDGING STELLENBOSCH AND 

SOMERSET WEST 

METICULOUS CANOPY 

MANAGEMENT IS CRUCIAL 

FOR CABERNET SAUVIGNON, A 

VIGOROUS VARIETY, TO ACHIEVE 

THE IDEAL DAPPLED SUNLIGHT 

ON GRAPE BUNCHES WHILE 

PREVENTING EXCESSIVE GROWTH 

trend, stringent regulatory constraints tend to inhibit creative expressions, providing discernible 

advantages to Cabernet powerhouses in regions such as Stellenbosch and Napa. 

David Trafford, a member of the Cape Winemakers Guild who crafts his Cabernet magic on the eastern 

slopes of the Helderberg Mountain, attributes the region’s success to ancient soils, particularly the 

iron-rich clay component that imparts mid-palate flesh and a perfect balance of power and elegance. 

“Stellenbosch Cabernet gracefully straddles the line between the Old and New World, offering a 

Bordelais-like structure, a little riper fruit notes, juicy ripe tannins, and good but hidden acidity. 

Instead of the gravelly seashell aspects of the Medoc, Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon has this 

distinctive herbal, fynbos quality.” 

The pursuit of quality drives winemakers like Trafford, who, with an architectural background, 

prioritizes content over style. 

“Style should result from your context and your interpretation thereof. After a few years of working 

with a vineyard, you realize that a style is emerging, and wines are rated with quality in mind and 

the fashion of style. It is difficult to remain content-focused and not become style-distracted.” 

THE TERROIR OF STELLENBOSCH: 

A KEY INGREDIENT IN CABERNET SAUVIGNON’S SUCCESS 

Trafford adds that one of the critical factors in producing outstanding Stellenbosch Cabernet is 

harnessing the abundant South African sunshine while avoiding overly jammy flavours during the 

grapes’ long ripening period. 


DAVID TRAFFORD IS THE OWNER AND WINEMAKER AT DE TRAFFORD 

WINERY, SITUATED ON THE MONT FLEUR FARM AT THE TOP OF A 

DRAMATIC VALLEY ABOVE STELLENBOSCH 

DIRK VAN ZYL, CELLAR MASTER AT GLENELLY, TAKES PRIDE IN HOW 

STELLENBOSCH PRODUCERS ARE GAINING GLOBAL RECOGNITION, 

ALONGSIDE RENOWNED REGIONS LIKE BORDEAUX AND NAPA 

“It requires a delicate balance of soil moisture and precise canopy management. Stellenbosch’s 

advantage over many European and First World wine regions lies in its access to vineyard labour, 

enabling meticulous vineyard work needed for top-quality wines.” 

At Glenelly, under the impressive stewardship of Madame May de Lencquesaing, the winery has 

seamlessly blended its Bordeaux legacy with South African terroir. Cellar master Dirk van Zyl 

emphasizes their commitment to crafting wines that combine Old World restraint with New 

World vibrancy, drawing inspiration from Stellenbosch’s coastal proximity. 

Each block on Glenelly contributes distinct expressions, exemplified by the deserving 95 points 

awarded to their Lady May 2017. 

“Glenelly’s structured clay soils provide power; coarser soils produce vibrant fruit expressions 

with gentler tannins. Parcel-by-parcel fermentation allows for exceptional complexity, showcasing 

the potential of Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon.” 

In the Helderberg region, Spier’s cellar master, Johan Jordaan, believes that Stellenbosch 

Cabernet Sauvignon distinguishes itself with a unique combination of concentration and 

elegance. 

“This style is reminiscent of European wines but with lower acidity, subtle sweetness, denser 

tannins, and concentrated fruit. Regional consistency ensures higher light intensity, allowing 

for the breakdown of pyrazines that lead to riper, red fruit profiles. Vineyards situated inland 

produce darker fruit expressions with supple tannins,” explains Jordaan. He believes time 

remains an essential factor in understanding the complexity of the variety as the beauty of 

Stellenbosch Cabernet only shines after 5 to 10 years, revealing more enticing blackcurrant and 

blackberry flavours with hints of earthiness and herbal notes adding a savoury edge. 


47

SOUTH AFRICA 

GRAPE 

BRIDGING THE STYLISTIC GAP 

AND GLOBAL PERCEPTION 

ACCORDING TO SPIER CELLAR MASTER JOHAN JORDAAN, THE 

COMBINATION OF ANCIENT SOILS, ALTITUDE AND OCEAN INFLUENCE 

ENSURES GRADUAL RIPENING, CHARACTERIZED BY RED FRUIT, A HERBAL 

QUALITY AND SWEET, RIPE TANNINS 

The confident strides in refining its unique stylistic 

qualities have clearly positioned Stellenbosch 

Cabernet Sauvignon as a contender alongside 

expensive California and Bordeaux wines. Yet, 

there is an ongoing debate about why Stellenbosch 

Cabernets don’t command higher prices in the 

global market. A winemaker like Trafford notes the 

stylistic similarity to the highest-level Bordeaux 

wines, characterized by supreme richness and 

complexity, setting them apart from wines in the 

same price range that tend to be simpler. 

Even with noble grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon 

consistently earning global awards, it is necessary 

for wine lovers to physically come to South Africa 

and experience the absolute best versions of these 

wines in the very environment that is so uniquely 

conducive to crafting some of the world’s finest 

examples. This is why there’s an active push towards 

tourism and robust marketing strategies. These 

efforts serve not only to challenge outdated perceptions 

but also to create fresh and inviting images 

that allow Stellenbosch Cabernet to reap the benefits 

of its exceptional quality and the distinctiveness 

of its winemaking environment. 

As perceptions shift and more wine enthusiasts 

and connoisseurs experience South African wines 

firsthand, in its pristine wine estate settings mirroring 

the attention to detail, the intrinsic value of 

these wines becomes increasingly evident, setting 

the stage for these wines to command prices that 

accurately reflect their excellence and the terroir 

from which they originate. The hope is that tasting 

Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon evokes memories 

of the picturesque Cape landscape, with its intense 

blackberry and fynbos nuances weaving complexity 

and memorability into each glass. 

A JOURNEY THROUGH 

STELLENBOSCH TERROIR 

For some wineries, the image of South African wine 

and Stellenbosch Cabernet has been a commitment 

traversing generations. 

Alto Wine Estate is an example of such, one of the 


GLENELLY’S COMMITMENT TO 

SUSTAINABILITY RUNS DEEP 

- FROM INVESTING IN THEIR 

COMMUNITY’S WELL-BEING 

TO RESPONSIBLE FARMING 

PRACTICES AND AN ECO- 

FRIENDLY WINERY 

SPIER IS RENOWNED FOR ITS 

ETHICAL AND SUSTAINABLE 

PRACTICES, AND IT TAKES A TEAM 

OF TALENTED WINEMAKERS TO 

ENSURE THE COMMITMENT TO 

CONSISTENT QUALITY IS UPHELD 

BERTHO VAN DER WESTHUIZEN 

IS THE FIFTH WINEMAKER 

IN THE ESTATE’S CENTURY- 

LONG HISTORY. SUCCEEDING 

HIS FATHER SCHALK IN 

2015, BERTHO CARRIES 

FORWARD THE LEGACY WHILE 

RESPECTING THE HISTORY THAT 

CAME BEFORE HIM 


49

SOUTH AFRICA 

GRAPE 

oldest red wine producers in South Africa resting on the sunny north-facing slopes 

of the Helderberg. Their Cabernet Sauvignon 2018, scoring an impressive 93 points, 

benefits from the moderating influence of the nearby ocean and south-easterly 

winds. Winemaker Bertho van der Westhuizen credits their deep decomposed 

granite soils for providing optimal growing conditions with water retention capabilities, 

ensuring deep root systems and resilience against heat waves or drier years. 

With more than half the estate planted to Cabernet, this wine has become an institution 

in South African households. It is renowned for its powerful elegance and 

delicious red and black fruit melange, but with a distinctive hint of cool graphite. 

Simonsig is one of the pioneering wineries that founded the Stellenbosch Wine 

Route, where the baton has always been handed from father to son. 

Gilbert & Gaillard scored Simonsig The Garland 2018 94, which warmed the heart 

of Stellenbosch stalwart Johan Malan, now joined by his son Michael in the cellar. 

“It was always a big dream to make a Cabernet Sauvignon from the slopes of the 

Simonsberg and fruit growing on the farm that belonged to my grandfather - the 

previous van Niekerk generation and where my mother grew up,” he shares proudly. 

“I bought the grapes from my cousins, thrilled that I could finally make a wine from 

the vineyards where my grandfather walked, completing a circle with a profoundly 

elegant wine.” 

And he can be proud as the wine exudes that profound quality he eagerly wanted 

to capture - opaque and almost black in the centre, quintessentially Simonsberg. 

BERTHO VAN DER WESTHUIZEN IN HIS CELLAR 


SOUTH AFRICA 

GRAPE 

CRAFTING EXCELLENCE 

THROUGH INNOVATION 

JOHAN AND MICHAEL MALAN EPITOMIZE GENERATIONAL EXCELLENCE THROUGH THEIR 

UNWAVERING EFFORTS TO CRAFT EXCEPTIONAL WINES EACH YEAR 

Looking at the past decade of crafting Stellenbosch 

Cabernet Sauvignon, innovation is often a return 

to forgotten techniques, believes David Finlayson 

(CWG member). He emphasizes the importance 

of using technology to reduce undesirable green 

aspects and focuses on the dark berry flavours that 

define Cabernet Sauvignon. 

His deep understanding of each ward led to his 

award-winning Cabernet Sauvignon, which 

recently received the «Best Cabernet in the World» 

trophy at the Concours International de Cabernet 

in 2022. 

“My family has been making and bottling Stellenbosch 

Cabernet since the 1960s on Montagne (today 

Hartenberg) and the 1980s at Blaauwklippen (where 

I grew up). It has been a lifelong goal to develop 

my own property at Edgebaston. I’ve grown to 

understand what each ward in Stellenbosch brings 

to make blends that reflect an all-encompassing 

Stellenbosch flavour and style. So, I have achieved a 

pinnacle award for myself and Stellenbosch. Receiving 

Double Gold from Gilbert & Gaillard further 

entrenches the understanding that the Stellenbosch 

region produces Cabernet Sauvignon of a worldclass 

standard.” 

Finlayson reveals the intricate tapestry of how the 

Stellenbosch wards contribute to crafting a hallmark 

Cabernet Sauvignon: Simonsberg provides 

fruit that adds a robust, tannic, and muscular 

character, while Helderberg brings a delicate, 

floral, and ethereal quality with a burst of fruity 

notes. Meanwhile, Vlottenberg and Lynedoch 

impart intriguing tea leaf nuances along with 

the rich, aromatic cedar and cigar box flavours. 

He concludes that this mosaic of terroirs within 

Stellenbosch are the “colours” to paint a distinctive 

and memorable Cabernet Sauvignon. 

Further up the Helderberg slopes lies Keermont 

Vineyards, tucked away in its own remarkable 

terroir, where winemaker Alex Starry, one of the 

youngest members of the CWG, employs low-intervention 

winemaking techniques. 

Starry explains: “We pick the grapes on the exact 

day when the sugar and acid balance is perfect. 

DAVID FINLAYSON IS A THIRD-GENERATION GRAPE GROWER AND 

VINTNER BORN AND RAISED IN STELLENBOSCH, WHO TRANSFORMED 

THE 30-HECTARE EDGEBASTON VINEYARD AS IT’S KNOWN TODAY 


51

ALEX STARRY IN KEERMONT VINEYARDS 

MARK LE ROUX, COO AND CELLARMASTER AT WATERFORD, REFLECTS ON A 25-YEAR 

JOURNEY THAT HAS REVEALED THE REMARKABLE EVOLUTION OF CABERNET 

Methods in the cellar include gentle grape handling, no crushing or pumping, and we don’t 

add extraction enzymes. We only do one or two soft punch downs daily and prefer a long, 

slow maceration, allowing wild yeast to bring out complex flavours that express the terroir. 

Bottling is done by hand with minimal filtration, followed by maturation just short of two 

years in seasoned French oak barriques.” 

Keermont’s Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 earned 92 points - a seamless and sophisticated wine 

worthy of praise in its delicate expression of terroir. 

A COMMITMENT TO SUSTAINABILITY 

Waterford, situated in the Blaauwklippen Valley, has focused on Cabernet Sauvignon for 

25 years, committed to non-manipulative winemaking and sustainable farming practices. 

Mark Le Roux, COO and cellar master, emphasizes their dedication to reflecting the essence 

of place through their wines: “Waterford’s sustainable practices, including regenerative 

farming, wastewater management, and organic practices, have earned us the Integrity & 

Sustainability Seal for all our wines.” 

Le Roux eloquently describes the journey of a fine Cabernet Sauvignon, noting its evolution 

from vibrant youth to a gracefully ageing wine with elegant, fine-textured flavours. 

“Cabernet Sauvignon is a long journey. The fruit is fresh in its youth, the palate elegant 

with lively tannins balanced by natural acidity. Around five years of age, the wine evolves 

as tannins and acidity mature, and aromatics develop. After 15 years, it enters a graceful 

second ageing phase, with tannins softening, leading to an elegant, fine-textured palate 

and refined flavours. When making Cabernets, oak is crucial. Too much oak creates a dry, 


ERNIE ELS WINES PLACES A SIGNIFICANT EMPHASIS ON CABERNET 

SAUVIGNON UNDER THE EXPERT GUIDANCE OF WINEMAKER LOUIS STRYDOM 

STUART BOTHA, WINEMAKER AT TOKARA, CRAFTED THE TOKARA RESERVE 

2020, SCORING AN IMPRESSIVE 95 POINTS FROM GILBERT & GAILLARD 

dusty aftertaste. Many winemakers use excessive oak to enhance youthful richness, which 

results in bitterness with age. This journey culminates in wines that remain excellent even after 

two decades.” 

CABERNET SAUVIGNON’S STELLENBOSCH PROMISE 

Among more stellar wineries that excelled in the Gilbert & Gaillard tasting, including Kanonkop, 

Asara, Bartinney, Peter Falke, Stellenbosch Hills, Stark Conde, Kaapzicht, and more, their 

consistent quality yielded international acclaim. Their wines are also perched on a phenomenal 

tourism model, strengthened by Stellenbosch Cabernet, that lures visitors to experience the 

wines at their cellar door. Ernie Els, a leading proponent of wine tourism and Stellenbosch as a 

Cabernet destination, highlights the region’s ability to produce premium Cabernet Sauvignon 

and enjoy it in an elegant environment. 

“From Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé to Bordeaux-style blends, we employ gentle extraction techniques 

to express the region’s exceptional ability to produce premium Cabernet Sauvignon (their 

2018 vintage scoring an impressive 95 points). The best possible expression of our unique terroir 

remains the underlying message and experience we want to leave with our guests,” says cellar 

master Louis Strydom. 

As we ascend the picturesque Helshoogte, Tokara and Thelema’s cellar doors further celebrate 

Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon while embracing the region’s rich wine, food, and art culture. 

Tokara’s mantra: “We make wine that moves mountains,” reflects their commitment to crafting 

exceptional Cabernet Sauvignon - as the 95 score for their Tokara Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 

2020 attests, taking another leap for Stellenbosch’s enduring legacy as a world-class destination. 


53

HOW LEBANESE TERROIR 

AND WINERIES ARE EXPRESSIONS 

OF AN ANCIENT LAND 

BY HADY HAYDAMOUS 

PHOTOGRAPHS: 

COURTESY OF THE ESTATES - 

HADY HAYDAMOUS - MUSEO NACIO- 

NAL DE ARQUEOLOGÍA SUBACUÁTICA 

The story of Lebanese wine can be traced back around 7,000 years. There is 

ample evidence of wine being produced in the time of the Phoenicians, who were 

excellent mariners and would transport their wines in clay amphorae to every 

country their boats could reach. But far from resting on its ancient laurels, the 

present-day Lebanese wine industry is a story of passion, ingenuity, resilience and 

craftsmanship. 

HARVESTING AT CHATEAU FAKRA 


LEBANON 

DISCOVERY 

AMPHORAS USED BY THE PHOENICIANS TO TRANSPORT THEIR WINES 

In Antiquity, Lebanon was home to several vibrant cities. Beirut, 

Baalbek, Byblos, Tyre, Kefraya and Saghbine still contain widespread 

evidence of highly evolved civilizations that embraced the arts, viticulture, 

law, music and mosaic, to name a few. The Temple of Bacchus built 

by the Romans as a tribute to the God of wine and pleasure in Baalbek 

stands today as a reminder of the immense history of viticulture and 

cultural intersections in the country. 

There was a sense of magic when the journey of discovery of Lebanese 

wineries and wines started. The magic stems not only from witnessing 

the resilience and ingenuity of all the talented people crafting their wines 

but also from the discovery of the bountiful Lebanese terroir from the 

North to the South of the country. Despite the dire economic situation, 

the modern Lebanese wine scene has never been more vibrant. Lebanese 

wineries are showing exceptional courage and resilience in the face of 

adversity. Although each winery has its own identity, uniqueness, 


55

LEBANON 

DISCOVERY 

products and wines, the two things they all have in 

common are their love of their terroir and the passion 

they showcase while producing and communicating 

about their wines. This is their story. 

THE WOMAN WHO INSPIRED A 

GENERATION 

THE TEMPLE OF BACCHUS 

THE BEKAA VALLEY 

Domaine Wardy is nestled in the heart of the city of 

Zahlé. Zahlé is also known as the “bride of the Bekaa” 

and “Dar el Salam” or the home of peace. It is a gem 

in the Bekaa region and is renowned for its wine and 

arak production. 

The Bekaa Valley is currently the largest wine region 

in Lebanon. It is 120 km long and 16 km wide with an 

elevation ranging from 950m-1,600m above sea level. 

It is a very fertile region situated about 30 kilometers 

east of Beirut, lying between Mount Lebanon to the 

West and the Anti-Lebanon Mountains to the East. 

The valley’s climate is often wet and snowy during 

winter with 600-700 mm of rainfall per year. In 

summer, it is dry and warm with a diurnal shift of 15 

degrees Centigrade. 

This is a family-owned winery with a long experience 

of producing wines and arak, whose roots date back 

to 1881. Wardy (Rose) Mousallem, the great grandmother 

of the current generation of the Wardy family, 

is thought to have lived during the late 18th or early 

19th century. Wardy’s husband, a freedom fighter 

opposing the Ottoman Empire, was ambushed 

and killed leaving a young widow alone with their 

three children. Wardy became an inspiration and an 

astounding example of strength, resilience and hope. 

She assumed her role by taking care of their land and 

vineyards. She was so exceptional that her name 

became a symbol of pride and transcended every 

element: her children were Wardy’s children, her 

orchards became Wardy’s orchards, their vineyards 

became Wardy’s vineyards. 

Nowadays, and since 1996, Khalil, Sami, Rima and 

Rida Wardy have total ownership of the holding 

company, Solifed (Societe Libanaise de Fermentation 

et Distillation), making it a wholly owned 

family business producing the finest wines, araks 

and spirits. The Wardys’ knowledge of the land, the 


LEBANON 

DISCOVERY 

vines, winemaking techniques and their passion 

have enabled them to provide an everlasting sensation 

in every wine bottle they’ve produced. 

The first wine released under the Domaine’s name 

was in 1997. It was Château Les Cèdres, an exquisite 

red blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (50%), Syrah (30%), 

and Merlot (20%) sourced from vines planted in the 

North of the Bekaa and in Zahlé on limestone and 

gravel soils. 

Since then, their line-up has substantially expanded 

and is considered today as one of the most comprehensive 

in the market with 10 single varietals and 

7 blends of wine in addition to Gantous and Abou 

Raad Arak, Arak Wardy, Altere Vodka and Verjuice. 

DOMAINE WARDY 

FOR THE LOVE OF WINE 

CHATEAU HERITAGE IS IN A HISTORIC SCHOOL BUILT IN 1927 

Boasting a long-standing lineage involved in Arak 

production, dating back to the 19 th Century, Chateau 

Heritage has been producing wine since 1997 from 

its 65-hectare estate using traditional and modern 

techniques. It crafts some of the most approachable, 

elegant and finest wines in the market. This is a 

beautiful winery cocooned in a historic building 

in the village of Kab Elias in the Bekaa. It was 

constructed in 1927, used as a school and suffered 

considerable damage during the war years. It has 

been renovated, maintaining its baroque style and 

unique architectural identity. This is probably one of 

the reasons why it has been voted for three consecutive 

years (2019, 2020 and 2021) as one of the 50 

best wineries on the planet by the ‘World’s Best 

Vineyards’. 

Creating a winery in an old school has numerous 

challenges, namely the creation of a convenient 

workflow and process to optimize limitations in 

space. Not only were stainless steel tanks hand 

built based on the existing spatial constrictions, but 

also ingenious solutions were tailored to transport 

the wine from floor to floor and space to space to 

preserve quality. 

Visiting the winery and meeting with Wissam, Dr. 

Dargham and Hussam Touma, the winery’s owners, 

you can feel their sense of appreciation of the terroir 

and passion towards their wines. Dr. Dargham 


57

DR. DARGHAM TOUMA, 

WINEMAKER 

AND CO-OWNER AT 

CHATEAU HERITAGE 

BORDEAUX 

TRAVEL 


LEBANON 

DISCOVERY 

Touma, a fourth-generation winemaker who holds 

a PhD. in Food Sciences, underscores the importance 

of highlighting the Bekaa’s unique attributes to 

create vibrant, balanced wines that are appreciated 

by a global clientele. 

Their long winemaking legacy is clearly noticeable in 

their exceptional cellar where oak barrels age some 

phenomenal wines and hundreds of ancient bottles 

adorn the baroque-looking space. 

The ‘Family Reserve’ was the first label to be released 

in 1997. The red blend was composed of the best 

Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah parcels and grapes, 

carefully vinified and aged in oak barrels. Since 

then, their international-award winning line-up 

has grown to include 10 blends and 4 single varietals. 

CHATEAU KEFRAYA’S VINEYARDS 

FABRICE GIBERTEAU, TECHNICAL DIRECTOR AND 

WINEMAKER AT CHATEAU KEFRAYA 

THE PURSUIT OF PERFECTION 

Chateau Kefraya is the brainchild of founder and 

visionary Michel de Bustros, who in 1946 started 

building the Chateau on an artificial hill used by the 

Romans to overlook the movement of their troops. 

He went to great lengths to plant the hills and landscape 

of Kefraya. The first vines were planted in 1951 

and in 1979. At the height of the Lebanese Civil War 

(1975 – 1990), Chateau Kefraya was producing wines 

from its own grapes grown in its own vineyards and 

vinted in its own cellars. These balanced wines are 

enjoyed by a global audience. 

During the 1980s, Chateau Kefraya started exporting 

to France and won its first international medals in 

1982 and 1983 for its ‘Les Coteaux de Kefraya’. Today, 

Chateau Kefraya is present in over 40 countries 

around the world. The range now includes 16 blends 

and 16 single varietals of red, white, and rosé wines. 

The winery is very much intertwined with art, 

cuisine, wine, viticulture, and music. This intersection 

of highly evocative experiences creates similarly 

evocative wines at every touchpoint. It is no wonder 

Chateau Kefraya was voted as one of the Top 50 Best 

Wineries in the World by the ‘World’s Best Vineyards’ 

in 2023. 

Fabrice Giberteau, the winery’s technical director 

and winemaker, immerses you in enchanting details 

about terroir and the importance of preserving 


59

ZIAD AMMAR, THE OWNER (CENTER), 

RABIH SADAKA, THE WINEMAKER 

(LEFT), AND NAJIB MOUTRAN, 

THE MARKETING MANAGER (RIGHT) 

IN FRONT OF THE NEW HOME OF 

CHATEAU TROIS COLLINES 

indigenous grapes and vines. The philosophy here is all about pursuing the never-ending 

quest to plant quality vineyards with low yields and minimal intervention with the ability 

to produce the finest expressions of the fruit. 

On 1 May 2023, Guiberteau was awarded the ‘Chevalier de l’Ordre National du Mérite Agricole 

Français’, by Philippe Faure-Brac, 1992 World’s Best Sommelier. This recognition honors 

his attachment to the terroir and efforts to build bridges between East and West. 

A MEDITERRANEAN FEEL 

Chateau Trois Collines is an inspirational story. Its founder, mechanical engineer and 

businessman, Ziad Ammar, started planting his first vineyards in 2011 in Ain Bourdai facing 

the Temple of Jupiter and the Temple of Bacchus in Baalbek at an elevation of 1,600m above 

sea level. The land still contains evidence of viticulture dating back to Phoenician times. 

The new Chateau in Dahr Al Baydar is marvelous to experience. Inspired by Mediterranean 

architecture, it is visible from the main road on the mountain top overlooking both the 

Bekaa region and the coast. 

Vines were initially planted over 45 hectares on the three main hills, or Trois Collines in 

French. Using sustainable irrigation powered by solar energy, 125 hectares of stupendous 

vineyards now paint the hillside with an evergreen carpet of a sumptuous array of vines. 

The vineyards are also organically certified. 

Production started in 2016 and since then a range of 5 blends and 13 single varietals of red, 

white, and rosé organic wines from its own vineyards has been released. The winemaker 

Rabih Sadaka creates unique renditions of wine that beautifully showcase the quality of 

the terroir. He oversees every aspect of the winemaking process with utmost care, using 

a holistic quality control system to produce a refined, elegant and unique expression of a 

Mediterranean wine. 


JEAN TANNOURI, THE WINEMAKER 

AT CHATEAU KA, IN THE WINERY 

FOLLOW YOUR DREAMS 

Kassatly Chtaura was founded in 1974 by CEO and winemaker Akram Kassatly, who first introduced 

bottled Jallab for home-preparation into the market. After a resounding success with these concentrated 

syrups, the company introduced a range of liqueurs in the 1980s, and fruit juices, jams and 

fruit smoothies in the 1990s. Going from one success story to another, the product portfolio also 

includes Buzz, a vodka mix, and Freez, a non-alcoholic carbonated fruit beverage. 

Attempting to produce wine back in 1974 was extremely dangerous due to the Lebanese Civil War, but 

in 2005 Kassatly realized his dream when the first Chateau Ka bottle was released from vines planted 

on its own 65 hectares of land. The main varietals in Chateau Ka’s range include Cabernet Sauvignon, 

Merlot and Syrah for the reds and Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Muscat and Viognier for the whites. 

A conversation with winemaker Jean Tannouri details the carefully planned process from the moment 

the vines are hand-harvested to storage of the wines after bottling. At Chateau Ka, wine is treated 

with great care and respect. Tannouri believes his wines are the ultimate expression of their terroir. 

They are a labor of love, a reflection of a passion for the land and a vehicle for cultural exchange. 

The wines have won international medals and awards. The product range includes 6 blends of red, 

white and rosé wines. 

SINCE 1857 

Chateau Ksara is the oldest winery in the Middle East. It was founded in 1857 in Ksara in the Bekaa 

by Jesuit priests, who inherited and farmed a 25-hectare plot of land. Recognizing the quality of 

the terroir, they decided to grow grapes for winemaking, thereby blazing the trail for the modern 

Lebanese wine industry. 

In 1973, recognizing its importance and potential, a consortium acquired Chateau Ksara. Since 

then, it has consistently produced high quality wines that mirror the characteristics of their terroir. 


61

LEBANON 

DISCOVERY 

CHATEAU KSARA 

The Roman Tunnels underneath the chateau were 

discovered when priests noticed that their chicken 

went missing and followed a fox to its hideout. They 

discovered tunnels of around 2 km long at a depth 

of between 8-12m. The same tunnels served as a safe 

house during WW1. People in the tunnels enlarged 

their width which remains the same today. The 

Roman Tunnels are ideal for storage as the temperature 

is constantly between 10-12 °C with high humidity 

that reaches 80%. 

The Observatory at Chateau Ksara, the first of its 

kind in the Middle East, was used by the Jesuits to 

record rainfall and seismic activity. This landmark 

of the Bekaa was to become one of Ksara’s flagship 

wines, the Blanc de l’Observatoire. Today, Chateau 

Ksara’s range of internationally award-winning 

wines includes 11 blends and 4 single varietals of red, 

white and rosé wines. 

KISSED BY THE SUN 

GABRIEL RIVERO, WINEMAKER (CENTER), AURELIE THOROS, MARKETING MANAGER (RIGHT), 

AND GENERAL MANAGER TALAL MADI (LEFT) IN FRONT OF IXSIR WINERY’S ENTRANCE 

Known to many across the world as the potion of 

youth and love, Ixsir is a Lebanese winery founded in 

2008 and located in the village of Basbina, Batroun, 

in Northern Lebanon. The winery is set in a refurbished 

and renovated traditional, 17th-century 

Lebanese house that is as charming as the natural 

surroundings, vineyards, trees and landscaped decor. 

Walking into the winery prompts a sense of awe, with 

its white stones and traditional stone arches. One can 

overlook the stairs to the cellar to see the IXSIR logo 

carefully crafted in the floor. 

The high-ceiling, reinforced concrete cellar entrance 

with its minimal lighting converges towards the 

door leading into the winery. The hall is used as an 

art gallery where informative videos about IXSIR are 

shown. 

The winery’s architecture has won several awards 

including the International Architizer and A+ award. 

IXSIR’s goal is to showcase Lebanon’s outstanding 

terroirs, some of which have been lost to time. The 

vineyards, which are dispersed across 120 hectares 

over the mountains of Lebanon on calcareousclay 

and limestone soils, from Batroun to Jezzine, 

are farmed sustainably and take advantage of the 


THE CELLAR AT IXSIR 

region’s specific microclimates. The Ainata vineyard is located at an elevation of 1,800 meters above sea level 

and is considered to be the highest vineyard in the Northern Hemisphere. 

Gabriel Rivero, the winemaker, stresses how important it is to communicate about the beauty of the micro 

terroirs scattered across the country from North to South. These locations were carefully chosen due to their 

perfect exposure to sunlight, the quality of soil, elevation and climate. They were chosen to produce excellent 

grapes yielding great wines. Rivero’s quest to craft wines that appeal to a global audience is never ending. His 

extensive knowledge and attention to detail are evident. The wines he creates capture the uniqueness of these 

micro terroirs. Ixsir’s internationally award-winning wine range spans 9 blends of red, white and rosé wines. 

FROM ARGENTINA WITH WINE 

Chateau Fakra is situated in Kesrouan, Mount Lebanon’s Kfardebian valley. Astarte (Venus) and Bacchus 

(Dionysus), the gods of wine and love, have been worshipped here since ancient times. It is one of the most 

visited places in Lebanon and was called after the Roman Temples of Fakra. 

When owner Dr. Carlos Guillermo Adem returned from Argentina and founded the winery in 1985, he strived 

to enter the market with high standards and outstanding products. Exquisite vineyards, optimal growing 

conditions, a blend of terroirs in the Bekaa Valley and Mount Lebanon, expert vineyard management and 

maturation in French and American oak barrels have birthed superior wines. 

To ramp up recognition internationally, Chateau Fakra competes in international events and has been 

awarded more than 100 medals attesting to the quality of its wines. Its product range today includes 6 blends 

and one single varietal red, white and rosé wines. 

PURE TERROIR EXPRESSION 

The wine scene in Lebanon is rich and diverse. With a total production capacity of around 10 million bottles 

a year, Lebanese wineries have cemented their reputation for producing quality, elegant and refined wines. 

Whether they hail from the Bekaa Valley, Northern Lebanon, or any other wine region, and are blends or single 

varietals, Lebanese wines are a labor of love and passion, and a truly distinctive expression of their terroir. 


63

MERCIER VINE NURSERY, 

WHERE INNOVATION COMES 

SECOND NATURE 

BY SYLVAIN PATARD 

PHOTOGRAPHS: GILBERT & GAILLARD – 

MERCIER GROUP 

We return to Vix, in the Vendée, to continue our conversation with Miguel Mercier. 

The Mercier group of vine nurseries boasts 130 years’ experience and has a made 

a pledge to focus on research into resistant grape varieties. This is a long process, 

and one that comes with very strict legal requirements, but it probably holds the 

future of the wine industry, not just in France but also globally. We shed some light 

on the issue. 

MIGUEL MERCIER IN THE EXPERIMENTAL VINEYARDS THAT ARE HOME TO THE NATHY RESISTANT VARIETIES, SOME OF WHICH ARE DESIGNED TO 

REPLACE TRADITIONAL VINES 


DISCOVERY 

NURSERY 

VARIETIES BEING TRIALLED SHOW SUBSTANTIAL RESISTANCE TO POWDERY AND DOWNY MILDEW BUT ALSO BLACK ROT 

Gilbert & Gaillard: What is the current state of research and legislation 

on resistant grape varieties? 

Miguel Mercier: In some ways, resistant grape varieties are the ‘nephews’ of the hybrids 

of the turn of the century. Their major problem was the quality of their aromas and 

flavours in comparison to vitis vinifera*. This was the main focus of research and it 

was aimed at upgrading quality in the vineyards. Now we are familiar with the vine’s 

genome and have the ability to detect, for example, the criteria for resistance to downy 

and powdery mildew. Therefore, we can identify whether the pips have recovered the 

desired characteristics from the first seedling. This technique is known as natural 

oriented or assisted hybridisation. It expedites the process and produces both a naturally 

more resistant variety and one that most closely resembles the qualities of the 

original vine. 

G&G: What is the process leading to approval of a resistant grape variety? 

M.M.: It is a very long process and can take at least five or six years. It begins with 

registration for DUS (Distinctiveness, Uniformity and Stability) research. From then 

on, the variety can be propagated but not marketed. It has to be incorporated into 

two experimentation plantings – one in a northern region, the other in a southern 

region – for a three-year period. This is known as the VCUS protocol, or Value for 

Cultivation, Use and Sustainability. Depending on the results, a board at the CTPS or 

Permanent Technical Committee for Plant Breeding approves the variety if it matches 

*vitis vinifera is the original variety of wild vine 


65

DISCOVERY 

NURSERY 

the desired standards. It is a long-winded process but 

it guarantees real improvements for the winegrowers 

that become practitioners of these new varieties. 

G&G: Do you already have certified varieties 

that can be used? 

CALARDIS BLANC IS ONE OF THE VARIETIES BEING TRIALLED IN THE NATHY PROGRAMME 

M.M. We do and the situation is changing fast. To 

date, for whites we have Nathy-Sauvignac produced 

from research carried out in conjunction with a 

Swiss grape breeder Valentin Blattner, who is also 

a winegrower. The variety is similar to Sauvignon 

blanc, with aromatic, thiol-like notes and substantial 

resistance to powdery and downy mildew. Another 

noteworthy quality is that it is not very susceptible to 

black rot. Generally speaking, it reduces the number 

of sprays to two – one before flowering and one after. 

We also have another white and a red variety which 

are still at the VCUS stage. As I said, the situation is 

changing fast – we have registered 22 new varieties! 

We are very hopeful that among them are some real 

gems that will prove to be extremely successful. 

In addition to our own production, there is a 

nationwide programme managed by the French Vine 

Institute (IFV) which is called ResDur (for sustainable 

resistance). The programme has already led to several 

resistant varieties – both red and white – being 

approved. The new varieties are often used in blends 

but some winegrowers are trialling them as single 

varietals. Watch this space! 

AN OCEAN OF YOUNG VINES ALL-SET TO HEAD OFF ON THEIR JOURNEY FOR A NEW 

DESTINATION 

G&G: Going back to traditional plant material, 

are there ways of making these varieties 

more resistant too, particularly faced with 

climate change? 

M.M.: The most important component is the 

rootstock. This is what we have to focus on to drive 

change. In Bordeaux, for instance, where the 3309 

is very widely used, sometimes it is now being 

replaced by the Gravesac or even the R110 which is 

more drought-resistant. Other old rootstock, some 

of which virtually became obsolete, are also being 

studied again to gauge their qualities in the current 


CREATED BY MIGUEL’S DAD, 

JEAN-PIERRE, THE NOVATECH 

LABORATORY ALLOWS THE PRESENT- 

DAY MERCIER GROUP TO STAND AT THE 

CUTTING EDGE OF TECHNOLOGY 

EACH ROW OF VINES IN THIS 

CUTTING-EDGE PROGRAMME 

IS IDENTIFIED WITH THE 

UTMOST PRECISION 

context. In conservation centres, vines which may have been abandoned because they did 

not have the requisite qualities at the time but now do – they may produce lower alcohol 

levels for instance – are being sought out. These populations contain huge genetic diversity 

which has not necessarily been thoroughly scrutinised. This is a long-winded process 

but it could pay off. 

G&G: One major issue with planting involves the roots – should they be long 

or short? What is the right option? 

M.M.: I’d have a tendency to answer – they’re both right! The truth is that the discussion 

over the type of roots should not overshadow the vital issue of soil preparation. The quality 

of the plant is important but no more so than the other pivotal component – the soil. It 

must be pliable and oxygenated with organic material inputs. Coming back to the roots, 

the most important aspect in the equation is the type of planting chosen and allowing 

the vines to establish a good root system. In years gone by in Spain, for example, demand 

focused on very long roots because they made huge holes and winegrowers wanted vines 

to retain their root integrity as much as possible. Now, use of planting machines is very 

widespread and with long roots, the machines tend to plant them all on the same side due 

to the way they move. So to avoid this, it was decided to shorten the roots. For planting by 

hand, using a fork or a spade, the roots are often cut to 1 to 2 cm in France. Gradually, the 

norm over the past few years has become 8 cm of roots due to the development of planting 

machines. But again, it all depends on the type of planting chosen. 


67

DISCOVERY 

NURSERY 

NOVATECH – MERCIER’S INTEGRATED LABORATORY 

Novatech is the group’s research and development laboratory. For the past thirty years, the group has invested in this key sector. 

Olivier Zekri, the laboratory’s manager, outlines its activities. 

O 

“ ur department was created by Jean-Pierre 

Mercier. Originally, its primary focus was 

on diagnosing vineyard pathogens and that is 

still our core activity and keeps us busy six or 

seven months of the year. Another aspect is 

what is known as biological control. The principle 

involves incorporating micro-organisms 

that are beneficial for the plant and are aimed 

at strengthening its natural defence system 

against all aggressive pathogens it might 

encounter. Lastly, for the past fifteen years we 

have been studying what I used to call varietal 

innovation involving massal selection which 

you spoke about with Miguel. 

Also, for the past four or five years, we have 

become actively involved in varietal creation and 

have been approved as a Private Breeder (Ed. the 

only one in France), which now allows us to work 

on 980 genotypes, all of them offering resistance 

capabilities. Approximately 120 of them undergo 

more granular research mainly in terms of 

phenology and nano-technologies in the winemaking 

process. The aim is mostly to eliminate 

the less suitable candidates. Then comes the 

registration stage in the catalogue of new varieties 

– we now have twenty-four registered. This 

is a fairly long process which implies planting 

at least 90 vines of each variety in two different 

wine regions – in our case, one is here in Vix, the 

other is near Montpellier in the South of France. 

This does not allow us to conduct large-scale 

trials but things are in the process of changing 

and INAO itself now permits experiments that 

are broader in scope and are managed by winegrowers 

themselves via the VIFA programme 

(varieties of interest for adaptation purposes). 

So, practitioners of these future grape varieties 

authorised for PDO and PGI wines can understand 

the most basic issues such as the type of 

pruning required and yeast to use. This is a great 

step forward that will save everyone time. 

OLIVIER ZEKRI, DIRECTOR OF THE NOVATECH LABORATORY WHICH MANAGES 

RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT WITHIN THE MERCIER GROUP 


ITALY’S NO AND LOW ALCOHOL 

PIONEERS 

BY FRANCESCO SAVERIO RUSSO 

PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY OF 

THE WINERIES 

In recent years, ‘low alcohol’ and ‘no alcohol’ wines have become increasingly 

popular. The combination of a consumer shift towards a healthier lifestyle and the 

growing focus on responsible driving has pushed the wine industry to innovate 

and offer lighter alternatives without sacrificing taste and character. The trend is 

one that Italian wineries have been keen to tap into. 

THE CANELLA WINERY IS STILL RUN BY THE SECOND GENERATION OF THE FAMILY – LORENZO CANELLA, ALESSANDRA, NICOLETTA AND MONICA 

CANELLA – AND THE THIRD GENERATION, TOMMASO AND ALVISE CANELLA 

LÉGENDES 


69

SGARZI LUIGI WINERY IS LOCATED 

IN CASTEL SAN PIETRO TERME, A 

SMALL BUT FLOURISHING TOWN 

IN THE PROVINCE OF BOLOGNA, 

RENOWNED FOR ITS THERMAL 

WATERS AND EXCELLENT FOOD 

AND WINE 

Italian wineries have responded to this growing demand with technological innovations 

that make it possible to produce no alcohol and low alcohol wines without compromising 

on quality. This has been demonstrated by use of ‘spinning cone column’ technology which 

allows alcohol to be extracted from wine in a delicate way, preserving the aromatic and taste 

profiles. The process makes it possible to obtain wines with an alcohol content of less than 0.5% 

while preserving typical sensory characteristics. Other dealcoholisation techniques include 

nanofiltration, reverse osmosis, osmotic distillation and pervaporation. Alcohol removal by 

these techniques can however cause colour changes and losses of desirable volatile aromatic 

compounds, which can subsequently affect the sensory quality and consumer acceptability of 

the wine, and also lower the microbial stability of the product and shorten its shelf life. This is, 

therefore, the real challenge for producers, especially in Italy. 

INCOMPATIBLE NATIONAL LEGISLATION 

In terms of legislation, with the new CAP, the European Union has given the green light to 

the use of the term ‘wine’ to describe no alcohol or low alcohol grape / must-based products, 

but in Italy there is currently incompatibility with national regulations where the natural 

total alcohol content of a wine cannot be less than 8% alcohol. This means that wines below 

this percentage must be classed as ‘alcohol-free wine-based beverage’. It is important that 

these are also distinguished from unfermented must, i.e. must that has yet to become wine. 

No and low alcohol wines are no longer limited to being just ‘light’ versions of traditional 

wines as winemakers are working to create a wide range of styles and varieties to suit a range 

of palates. From fruity white wines to more structured reds, it is possible to find options 

suitable for different occasions and food pairings. It is important to emphasise, though, that 

these products are not meant to replace ‘traditional’ wine, but to be an alternative for those 


THE COMPANY FOUNDED BY 

LUIGI IS NOW RUN BY HIS 

GRANDSON STEFANO, TOGETHER 

WITH HIS WIFE NADIA, NOW 

JOINED BY FOURTH-GENERATION 

ANNA, LUIGI, LEONARDO AND 

FRANCESCA 

who cannot and do not want to drink alcohol, and something new for the curious and openminded. 

With the increasing supply of no alcohol and low alcohol wines, the importance of clear 

and accurate labelling becomes crucial. Consumers must be informed about the amount 

of alcohol in the product and its origin to help them make informed decisions and avoid 

confusion between the different options available. 

No and low alcohol wines are increasingly becoming an integral part of the contemporary 

wine scene but are mainly produced by large companies due to the cost of the technology, 

production volumes and the understandable reticence of small producers to join the trend. 

With technology continuing to improve and the focus on consumer tastes and needs, these 

wines are proving that it is possible to indulge in the culture of wine in a responsible and 

enjoyable way. The diversity of styles, intriguing flavour profiles and overall satisfying experience 

are making these wines an attractive choice for an increasingly broad audience. I asked 

some of the pioneers of these types in Italy to share their views on the category. 

SGARZI LUIGI WINERY 

The historic winery of Castel San Pietro Terme (Bologna) confirms that the Italian market 

for low/no alcohol alternatives is taking its first steps, even if it seems less developed than in 

other countries, where it is already quite common to find no-low alternatives on supermarket 

shelves. The data points to strong growth forecasts over the coming years (+23% average annual 

growth rate for 2021-2026), in line with the expectations of many operators, who see great 

potential in the market. In Italy, from a labelling perspective, there is unfortunately still a 

ban on the production of no/ low alcohol DOC and IGT wines which obviously has a negative 

impact on the competitiveness of Italian producers at international level. The controversy, 


71

ITALY 

TREND 

and competitive disadvantage of Italian producers, is apparent when looking at the shelves 

of foreign supermarkets. Under current Italian law it is not possible to state the name of the 

grape variety on the label of a de-alcoholised wine if other ingredients are present, even in 

very small quantities. 

Cantine Sgarzi Luigi has chosen, also for this reason, to produce beverages whose main 

component is de-alcoholised wine produced using Spinning Cone Column (SCC) technology, 

with low-temperature vacuum distillation. Careful thought from the company’s technicians 

has led to excellent results, both in terms of flavour – recently endorsed by Gilbert & Gaillard 

gold medals – and for organoleptic stability with a guaranteed shelf life of at least 5 years. 

This is a relatively new product category, benefitting from strong in-house expertise, and it 

is garnering rapidly expanding market share both nationally and internationally in France, 

Germany, Sweden, Poland, the USA and China. 

The products help the company reach out to new consumer audiences – people who do not 

drink alcohol for religious or health reasons for example – whilst also aligning with established 

consumption trends in terms of lifestyle. To date, the overall market is estimated for the EU 

at around 2.5 billion litres and 7.5 billion euros, largely cornered by beer. Wine’s share stands 

at just €322 million while spirits and liquors stand at around €168 million. (Areté research 

data.) Outside the EU, the largest markets are the USA and China. While the segment still 

represents a niche market, generally covering less than 1% of the total, growth in recent years 

for this type of product has been remarkable, against a backdrop of stable or declining alcohol 

consumption. 

Cantine Sgarzi Luigi’s new ZERO SL ZERO and CIAO ZERO products also place strong 

emphasis on environmental sustainability with light glass bottles and aluminium cans to 

reduce the company’s carbon footprint throughout the production cycle. Both glass and aluminium 

are infinitely recyclable materials, while aluminium has a much faster recyclability cycle 

and lower C02 consumption during the regeneration phases of the material itself. Sgarzi Luigi 

is proud to be able to offer sustainable products. 

THE NEW PRODUCTION FACILITIES AT SGARZI LUIGI, COMPLETED IN 2011, WERE BUILT USING 

ENVIRONMENTALLY FRIENDLY NATURAL MATERIALS AND COVERED WITH SOLAR PANELS WHICH 

PROVIDE FOR MOST OF ITS ENERGY NEEDS 


ITALY 

TREND 

BOSCA 

SINCE 2009, BOSCA HAS BEEN RUN BY PIA, GIGI AND POLINA, THE SIXTH 

GENERATION OF THE FAMILY WHO ARE CEO, CFO AND CMO RESPECTIVELY 

Bosca, in Canelli, boasts a history spanning over 

190 years, through 6 generations of a family whose 

entrepreneurial choices have always leaned towards 

innovation and exploring new horizons, without 

detracting from its historical heritage. “Non-conformism” 

and “inclusiveness” are the values that led to 

the creation of low and no alcohol products, which 

are part of a sub-brand, ‘It’s B’, stemming from a 

combination of experience, innovation and Bosca’s 

creativity. 

The product line updates the tradition of sparkling 

wines, making them the protagonists of a new 

drinking experience. The products have a novel 

flavour, are immediately enjoyable and accessible 

to all, and they reflect the company’s mantra of 

“bubbles against the tide”. Italy is still reluctant 

to embrace low / no alcohol wines compared to 

other foreign markets, including the US and 

Central / Northern Europe. In the Italian market, 

it is important to raise awareness of the category 

through dedicated marketing and communication 

campaigns, so as to encourage growth in consumption. 

Bosca’s sparkling wine Toselli is naturally 

sweet, crisp and balanced and therefore very 

versatile. It pairs equally well with special snacks, 

dessert or even spicy foods, where the sweetness 

of the drink counterbalances the mix of spices. The 

ideal alcohol-free beverages for Italians, according 

to Bosca, are also ‘mocktails’, a selection of alcohol-free 

cocktails which can now be found in every 

cocktail bar. Over time, ‘Low Alcohol Greens’ and 

‘Sparkletini’ will also make their way into the mocktail 

category once buyers become more knowledgeable 

and confident. 

Bosca’s non-alcoholic sparkling wines are made 

from must, produced by soft crushing, kept 

constantly at a low temperature and then gently 

micro-filtered to prevent fermentation. This process 

guarantees a product that is always fresh like Toselli, 

and preserves the organoleptic characteristics and 

natural sweetness of the grape must. For Bosca, it is 

essential to distinguish between low and no alcohol 

products both in communications and in market 

research because, although statistics always lump 

IN ADDITION TO THEIR SPLENDID UNDERGROUND CATHEDRAL CELLARS 

(A UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITE) LOCATED IN CANELLI, BOSCA HAS A 

STATE-OF-THE-ART WINERY IN COSTIGLIOLE D’ASTI 


73

ITALY 

TREND 

low and no alcohol together, in reality low alcohol products are leading the way. 

Finding reliable global statistics both for low alcohol wines and for non-alcoholic 

grape/must products is a tall order. For communications and marketing purposes, it 

is important to define the individual sub-categories of products, which also include 

beers and malt-based products, ciders, hard seltzers, cocktails and grape-based 

products. 

CANELLA 

Luciano Canella’s interest in low-alcohol and freshness goes back a long way, well 

before the current trends. It was back in the 1980s, in fact, that the sparkling wine 

entrepreneur from the Venetian and Treviso hinterland became interested in 

low-alcohol, healthy and low-calorie drinks and introduced a bottled, preservative-free 

version of ‘Bellini’, the famous Venetian cocktail. 

BROTHERS TOMMASO AND ALVISE CANELLA ARE 

THE THIRD GENERATION AT THE CANELLA WINERY 


ITALY 

TREND 

Bellini is once again the driving force behind the 

innovative drink launched by the new generation 

of the Canella family, namely Tommaso and Alvise, 

who have recently released their zero-alcohol Bellini. 

Although the ‘classic’ Bellini is made with three parts 

brut sparkling wine, one part white peach juice and 

pulp (produced in-house) and a dash of raspberry, 

the ‘Zero’ has the same ingredients, but without 

the alcohol. This is extracted using the membrane 

process to retain the aromatic qualities. 

As far as distribution is concerned, the on-trade is 

showing a lot of interest. Consumption is obviously 

not significant yet, but the product is bound to 

take off. Launched less than 6 months ago, it is too 

early to make any sales estimates, and the company 

is aware that it has to invest time to raise awareness 

of something so ‘unconventional’. Foreign 

sales vary a lot depending on the market and the 

drinking culture in individual countries, as well as 

on licences. In the USA and Canada, a number of 

states ban alcohol sales in grocery stores, therefore 

providing an opportunity for no alcohol alternatives. 

Scandinavia to date is probably the most promising 

market while the entire Middle East becomes a 

strategic market from a cultural perspective. 

ANNA SPINATO AND HER SON ROBERTO NOW RUN THE COMPANY WITH AN EYE ON 

SUSTAINABILITY AND NEW TRENDS INCLUDING LOW AND NO ALCOHOL BEVERAGES 

ANNA SPINETO IS A WINERY FOUNDED IN 1952 BY PIETRO SPINATO, THE FATHER OF THE 

CURRENT OWNER ANNA. IT IS LOCATED IN THE VENETO REGION OF PONTE DI PIAVE 

ANNA SPINATO 

This company in Ponte di Piace (Treviso) which 

is renowned for the production of wines such as 

Valdobbiadene, Prosecco, Raboso and Malanotte, as 

well as international varietals, has decided to focus 

on ‘no alcohol’ by resurrecting an historic company 

label: Gocce di Luna. 

This sparkling non-alcoholic wine is produced 

entirely from grape juice grown in organic Italian 

vineyards. It is a refreshing drink whose sweet fruity 

notes and exuberant bubbles make it a good fit even 

for the most demanding consumers. The company 

also produces two other non-alcoholic sparkling 

wines: ‘Zero’ and ‘Zero Blush’. Spinato agrees that 

the Italian market for the products lacks maturity 

compared with foreign markets. Hence its export 

focus, which has yielded very satisfying results. 

Longer term, however, the outlook is positive in Italy 


75

TODAY, ARIONE IS RUN BY BROTHERS MAURO AND LUCA ARIONE, WHO MANAGE THE TWO FAMILY WINERIES 

too, especially for products so closely linked to wellness. This also explains why 

it has decided to use grape must, without resorting to de-alcoholisation. Its 

main markets currently are Russia, the Middle East and Asia, while demand 

is also growing within the EU. 

ARIONE 

Even the historic (1870) Piedmont family business, which has vineyards in 

the fertile regions of the Langhe and Monferrato, has decided to venture 

into no and low alcohol wine territory, sensing the growing interest in 

the categories. The growth reflects the increasing attention paid by larger 

scale Italian producers to global trends. Arione uses grape must processed 

with various components, with no de-alcoholisation. The company is also 

experimenting with similar solutions in collaboration with another winery. 

Again, it is premature to speak of global market share, but the data seems 

to be promising. Growth of low and no alcohol wines has reached 30% 

in some markets in recent years, with forecasts pointing to an annual 

increase of 15%-20% over the next 3-5 years. The company reports that its 

products are stocked in some US shops in sections dedicated to no and 

low alcohol ranges. 


PERLINO CEO EDOARDO LAUGIERI 

PERLINO’S EXPORT DIRECTOR GIUSEPPE BELLOTTI 

PERLINO SPA 

Perlino SPA has been a major producer of vermouth and sparkling wines 

in Asti for more than a century, after it was founded in 1905 in Castello 

d’Annone by Giuseppe Perlino. 

In the 1930s, after some strategic investments, the historic production of 

sparkling wines and vermouths began to increase, becoming a forte of the 

company over time. 

Vermouth Perlino grew rapidly in the domestic market, as well as internationally, 

thanks to its exclusive recipe. It is now considered a staple of the 

good, traditional Piedmontese aperitif. The same happened with sparkling 

wines: with over 70 years of experience and worldwide presence, Perlino 

produces sparkling wines that are perfectly in tune with consumer trends 

across the age groups. Building on this success and with a view to leveraging 

growing demand both in Italy and abroad for low and no alcohol 

wines, Perlino has decided to invest in the category. This dovetails with 

a trend towards drinking ‘lighter’ and ‘healthier’, but without detracting 

from originality and taste. The company is fully aware of how challenging 

it is to produce a good product with a full aroma and flavour profile 

and at the same time is low in alcohol. Perlino is currently focusing on a 

low-alcohol, fruit-flavoured Moscato-based product named ‘Diva di sera’. 


77

ITALY 

TREND 

PERLINO’S MARKETING MANAGER, ELENA BRANDA 

PERLINO’S MARKETING DIRECTOR DIEGO SALMI 

A Moscato Mango and a Moscato Cherry at 6% alcohol offer excellent alternatives 

for a lighter aperitif. 

Data from ‘IWSR Drinks Market Analysis 2021, Nielsen 2022, Innova New 

Product Database 2022’ shows that the average alcohol content of products 

launched in the last five years ranges from 4 to 5.5 % ABV while as many as 

20% of European consumers have sought lower alcohol products in the last 

12 months. These figures are being closely monitored by companies that have 

made history by continuously innovating and trying to anticipate trends while 

focusing on quality. 

STRIKING THE RIGHT BALANCE 

For wine ‘purists’, the world of no and low alcohol wine may be difficult to 

understand and accept, but it is clear that in a world where over 50% of the 

market is made up of teetotallers, this marketing opportunity cannot be ignored. 

It is important, especially in Italy, to better regulate the production and labelling 

of the products so as not to harm ‘traditional wine’ in any way and to be able to 

offer consumers useful information so that they can choose between the various 

products. The next five years will be crucial for the future of these beverages in 

Italy and throughout the Old World. 


AOC MÉDOC: THE REVOLUTION 

OF A LOW-PROFILE, 

BUT INNOVATIVE APPELLATION 

BY CAMILLE BERNARD 



The Médoc boasts a long-standing history of producing wine and has garnered 

an international reputation as the home of some of Bordeaux’s most prestigious 

appellations. Whilst the Médoc appellation is the area’s most extensive, it also 

keeps the lowest profile. This belies the work by its winegrowers to offer a unique 

interpretation of its grape varieties and to deliver extremely charming wines that 

deserve to be better known. 

CHÂTEAU ROLLAN DE BY 

LÉGENDES 


79

MEDOC 

DISCOVERY 

A VINEYARD BELONGING TO ONE OF THE CO-OPERATIVE WINEGROWERS AT UNI-MÉDOC 

The Médoc, quite rightly, evokes the top names 

of the Bordeaux wine industry. But take a closer 

look and you discover unsuspected nuances, 

defining features and a treasure trove to be delved 

into. One of the reasons for this is that it covers 

an extensive footprint, sweeping across more 

than 16,000 hectares, from the Jalle de Blanquefort 

river on the outskirts of Bordeaux, to the 

shores of the Atlantic, on the tip of the Grave area. 

Across this expanse, the vineyards of the Médoc 

are home to both the prestigious properties which 

have contributed significantly to its global reputation, 

as well as small producers, the custodians 

of a centuries-old winegrowing heritage. The Médoc 

appellation is a perfect illustration of this, as 

the location of myriad small wineries which form 

a consolidated yet incredibly varied identity. Admittedly, 

if you apply the law that sets the boundaries 

of the appellation area, the entire Médoc 

wine region is eligible for AOC Médoc status. 

In practice, however, the vast majority of wines labelled 

Médoc are produced in the northern part of 

the peninsula, with the southern part occupied by 

AOC Haut-Médoc which rings the six village-designated 

appellations that are Margaux, Pauillac, 

Saint-Julien, Saint-Estèphe, Moulis-en-Médoc 

and Listrac-Médoc. 

UNI-MÉDOC’S BARREL CELLAR IS THE LARGEST ON THE MÉDOC PENINSULA 

What makes this specific area unique is that the 

spread of vineyards occurred at a later date than 

across the rest of the peninsula. There’s a good 

reason for that – it stems from the enterprising 

transformation of marshland by the Dutch who, 

in the 17 th century, decided to drain the land to 

grow grapes there. 

The present-day Médoc appellation area is defined 

by its incredible concentration of small wineries 

which produce very charming red wines 

that not only appeal for their flavour, but also the 

excellent value for money they offer. 

In the currently challenging economic climate, 

however, how is the appellation coping, overshadowed 

as it is sometimes by its illustrious 

neighbours despite the fact that it ticks all the 

boxes for consumers? To find out, we spoke to 

some of the appellation’s major producers. 


THE UNI-MÉDOC FAMILY OF 

WINEGROWERS 

LES VIGNERONS D’UNI-MÉDOC: STRENGTH IN NUMBERS 

Stemming from the merger of the wineries in Bégadan, Ordonnac, Prignac and Queyrac, 

the Uni-Médoc group of co-operatives now stands as a linchpin of the Médoc appellation. 

Martin Cougnaud, its head of marketing, speaks of the group of 140 winegrowing 

families with undisguised pride: “With 1,000 hectares under vine, our co-operative accounts 

for 19% of AOC Médoc, which makes us the leading producer in the appellation”. 

At its facilities in Gaillan, which house its offices, winery and shop, the entire team 

works hard to enhance and promote the work of its co-operative winegrowers. 

In the privacy of the Médoc’s largest barrel cellar is where very different styles of wine 

are matured, “in a bid to offer an extensive range embracing every style of red wine”. 

This source of pride however belies a very real concern. Alexis Danglade, Uni-Médoc’s 

sales manager for France, comments on the challenges encountered by the appellation: 

“Bordeaux’s reputation has suffered and we are suffering from this poor image. Even 

our Crus Bourgeois struggle to secure shelf space in wine merchants, despite their 

quality”. This has not put a dent in the enthusiasm of the winegrowers at Uni-Médoc, 

though, who are redoubling their efforts to “remain focused on their priorities and do 

everything in their power to continue to reign over their appellation by ensuring a presence 

along the Médoc coast”, stresses Danglade. 

Driven by their belief in the need to supply easy-drinking wines, Les Vignerons d’Uni-Médoc 

launched Simply Médoc in 2020. The brand features two red wines which retain the 

typicity of Médoc whilst being more accessible. The fruit-forward offerings also display 

novel, minimalist labels so that they can stand out in a crowded marketplace. 

So far, all of these levers have enabled the winery to be well received on a very local scale 

and to post a slight but encouraging increase in sales. 


81

CAMILLE DUJARDIN, MANAGING DIRECTOR OF 

PRODUCTA VIGNOBLES 

THE MERRAIN ROUGE LABEL IS MATURED IN THE BARREL 

CELLAR AT VIGNERONS D’UNI-MÉDOC 

Concurrently with this, as pioneers of sustainability – with the first schemes 

launched in 1993 – Cougnaud proudly stresses that “97% of vineyards grown by 

Uni-Médoc winegrowers are certified HVE 3”. He adds, “The location of the vineyards, 

between the estuary and the ocean, creates a milder micro-climate that 

safeguards them from extreme heat”. 

Uni-Médoc combines pride, adaptability and a commitment to the environment 

and demonstrates that, despite the current headwinds, unity and perseverance are 

still reliable values in the wine industry. 

PRODUCTA VIGNOBLES: CELEBRATING VARIETY 

Founded in 1949, Producta Vignobles is now a key player in the Bordeaux wine 

market. It boasts a solid reputation in the region, and as a company with co-operative 

shareholders, it has become a choice partner for the wine industry where it 

plays a pivotal role. 

Its expertise spans from purchasing to logistics and marketing and it has a firm 

rooting in the vineyards of Bordeaux. But what sets it apart is its mission. As the 

company’s marketing and communications manager, Stéphanie Monteau points 

out, “Producta Vignobles is the bridge between the winegrower and the consumer”. 

Under the skilful management of Camille Dujardin, who has been its managing 

director since 2020, Producta Vignobles continues to combine tradition and mo- 


LÉGENDES 

A VINEYARD WHOSE WINES ARE MARKETED BY PRODUCTA VIGNOBLES 

dernity. The CSR policy rolled out in the company is anything but a simple sales 

gimmick: “It reflects the inherent spirit within the company and the 18 co-operative 

wineries in the group, which go from the Médoc to Monbazillac”. 

The Médoc itself offers the perfect illustration of the diversification strategy implemented 

by the company. Monteau explains: “Of all the appellations in the region, 

AOC Médoc is considered by consumers as a recognised, flagship appellation”. As 

a testament to this, “despite a general decline in consumption of red wines, the 

appellation continues to appeal”. 

Producta Vignobles has not just gone with the flow, it has shaped trends. By 

launching the CodeM label, produced by one of its esteemed shareholding wineries 

at Uni-Médoc, the company supplies “fruity, oak-free wines aimed at people 

looking for accessible wines”. 

Meanwhile, “the Merrain Rouge label [Ed. also produced by Vignerons d’Uni-Médoc] 

epitomises the strength and authenticity of AOC Médoc, where oak ageing 

lends the wine the powerful structure specific to traditional Médoc”. 

Such differently styled wines illustrate Producta Vignoble’s ability to adapt. As Dujardin 

points out, “The expertise of the winegrowers and technical staff coupled 

with the range of vineyard sites and grape varieties available allow us to supply 

modern, offbeat brands whilst also ensuring impeccable quality”. 

Producta Vignobles demonstrates, with passion, expertise and receptiveness, that 

it is possible to respond to changing consumer tastes whilst at the same time honouring 

a rich winegrowing tradition. 


83

MEDOC 

DISCOVERY 

CHÂTEAU CARMÉNÈRE: 

WHEN ORIGINALITY SUPPORTS 

THE MÉDOC 

RICHARD BARRAUD, THE OWNER OF CHÂTEAU 

CARMÉNÈRE 

CHÂTEAU CARMÉNÈRE WELCOMES PRIVATE CUSTOMERS TO THE WINERY 

At his farm located in the Queyrac area, Richard 

Barraud, the owner of Château Carménère, 

explores avenues of innovation and entrepreneurship. 

After racking up a number of different 

experiences in a variety of wineries, a personal 

challenge led him to buy his own small farm in 

2005. Fuelled by a desire to produce Médoc red 

wines, he admits that he rapidly became aware 

of the challenges of competing with the Médoc’s 

Grands Crus. “Initially, I only had two hectares of 

typical Médoc grape varieties. We really started 

off with a blank canvas”, he recalls. 

But what really sets Château Carménère apart is 

its quest for originality and creativeness, which 

defines the estate’s spirit. Barraud has embraced 

the challenge of reincorporating the Carmenere 

grape variety, which used to be widely grown in 

the region but fell out of favour due to its susceptibility 

to shatter. In fact, he admits, “It is a fragile 

grape variety that has caused us a lot of issues: 

98% of the flowers succumbed to shatter and we 

had extremely low yields”. Despite these hurdles, 

Barraud remains determined, charmed by the 

unusual nuances of Carmenere and its ability to 

produce wines that are light yet structured. 

His resilience has paid off, producing a range of 

wines which has broken with Médoc traditions. 

In 2018, he even launched a single varietal Carmenere 

called Audace and every year, he scales up 

the proportion of the variety in his blended wines. 

In doing so, he is able to decrease the percentage 

of Merlot, which he considers to be less resistant 

to excessive heat. 

Barraud admits that the challenge now lies in introducing 

the variety to customers more accustomed 

to its Chilean and Argentinean iterations. 

Nevertheless, the undeniable uniqueness of his 

wines resonates with his private customers, but 

also with overseas markets where his wines have 

now attracted a following in Switzerland, Germany 

and even Norway. 

Ultimately, although he points the finger at Bor- 


CHATEAU HAUT CONDISSAS, THE FLAGSHIP OF DOMAINES ROLLAN DE BY 

JEAN GUYON, OWNER OF DOMAINES ROLLAN DE BY 

deaux’s inability to fully promote its wines and appellations, Barraud still has 

faith in his policy of differentiation: “Working directly with my customers allows 

me to engage with them and find out whether they like our wines. That contact 

strengthens the trust we place in our determination to focus on the distinctiveness 

of this grape variety which, also, seems to be a varietal of the future faced 

with global warming”, he concludes optimistically. 

DOMAINES ROLLAN DE BY: MAKING JOYFUL WINES 

Jean Guyon has had a number of different professions and is not your average 

winegrower. “I have always had a passion for wine, one that was passed down to 

me by my father”, he concedes. This attraction to the ‘nectar of the gods’ led him 

to set himself a daring challenge, that of owning his own vineyard in the Médoc. 

“I started off with 2 hectares in the 1990s with a single-minded goal which was 

to make a fine wine”, he recounts. The real challenge, however, was not so much 

to produce the wine as to establish a reputation for it. “Terroir is crucial, as is 

the quality of the wine, but making a name for yourself is the hardest part”. He 

rapidly realised that he needed to extend his acreage to establish a reputation 

and gradually acquired several properties, increasing the total area under vine at 

Domaines Rollan de By to 185 hectares. 


85

MEDOC 

DISCOVERY 

THE WINERY AT DOMAINES ROLLAN DE BY BEARS THE STAMP OF JEAN GUYON’S PASSION 

FOR ART 

THE VINEYARDS AT CHÂTEAU VIEUX ROBIN 

Among the range of AOC Médoc wines that begin 

life in these vineyard sites, he proudly mentions 

Château Condissas, which made a name for 

itself by outperforming a Cru Classé at an official 

tasting. 

Driven by his own success, Guyon is fairly critical 

about the Médoc, a region he describes as “one big 

hotchpotch where the best rub shoulders with the 

worst. It is an outstanding region that has neglected 

its own development”. He feels that the key to 

success lies, and will continue to lie in the future, 

in his capacity to stand out from the crowd. 

Despite the growing reputation of Domaines Rollan 

de By, Guyon has noticed that a challenging 

economy is adding pressure and that marketing 

remains a colossal challenge. The irony is that the 

Médoc appellation, despite covering a sprawling 

area, struggles to turn up the volume and attract 

attention. Guyon highlights the striking contrast 

between Burgundy’s young, laid back image and 

Bordeaux’s stuffy image, underscoring the need 

to revamp its image by “making our wines joyful”. 

Despite everything, Guyon remains an optimist, 

and stays true to his initial philosophy of “making 

good wine for every table”. His wines are now 

sold both in France and abroad, particularly in 

the United States where the Château Greysac label 

is the best-selling French wine. Aware of the 

challenges caused by climate change and the need 

to rein in rising alcohol levels, he has adapted his 

vineyard management techniques and is even 

considering partially de-alcoholising his wines to 

respond to new consumer tastes. This innovative 

tack mirrors Jean Guyon’s unique career. 

CHÂTEAU VIEUX ROBIN: 

LENDING THE MÉDOC ELEGANCE 

In Bégadan, very near the Gironde estuary, Château 

Vieux Robin encapsulates five generations of 

a passionate family of winegrowers. What makes 

its twenty or so hectares under vine unique is 

that “the soils are clay-limestone, clay-gravel and 

clay-silica”, explains its lucky owner, Maryse Roba. 

“For over twenty years, we have been farming our 


MEDOC 

DISCOVERY 

vines sustainably. Our determination to protect the environment can be seen in the 

biodiversity that is widespread across our vineyards”, says Roba. 

The winery’s pledge to the environment only enhances its heritage, but this is not 

the only vineyard where wines produced by the Roba family excel. In 2011, Roba also 

bought Domaine des Anguilleys, previously owned by her parents. Here, the terroir is 

dramatically different, and produces more accessible Médoc wines with silkier tannins, 

thereby broadening the range of flavours on offer, and meeting the needs of a 

wider audience. 

Despite this ability to supply wines in very different styles, Roba stresses the challenges 

facing the Médoc appellation: “It is essential to win back local customers. Some 

consumers feel that the tannins in Médoc wines are too harsh, which is why we pay 

great attention to detail in the vineyards, particularly before the harvest, when we 

taste the grapes until the pips taste like hazelnuts and the skins are nicely supple. This 

allows us to have very elegant juice and avoid astringent tannins”. 

Also, in a bid to constantly aim for quality and elegance, the winery favours very gentle 

extraction and maturation in barrels with short toasts so that the fruit can express itself. 

Although the majority of the wines produced by the two wineries is bound for export 

markets (70%), Roba’s goal is clear: “People need to rediscover this magnificent peninsula 

that is the Médoc”. She knows that one of the appellation’s calling cards is its tourist 

appeal and concludes optimistically, “The future for the Médoc seems bright”. 

MARYSE ROBA, OWNER OF CHÂTEAU VIEUX ROBIN, OFFERS TASTINGS 

OF HER WINES TO PRIVATE CUSTOMERS 


87

THE BUILDINGS AT CHÂTEAU 

VIEUX ROBIN 

THE BARREL CELLAR AT 

CHÂTEAU VIEUX ROBIN 

A PATENT NEED TO DEVELOP AN IMAGE 

In the Médoc’s extensive winegrowing landscape, tradition and prestige are often 

presented as the pivotal aspects of the stories we are all familiar with. And 

yet, the testimonials shared by independent producers and co-operative wineries 

in the namesake appellation tell a different story, revealing a modern facet 

to this long-standing wine region. In an AOC that struggles both to emerge 

from the shadows of its prestigious neighbours and garner a reputation for the 

wines it produces, the wines themselves epitomise innovation, resilience and 

differentiation. Admittedly, each producer follows their own strategy, but all of 

them illustrate the importance of embracing change and reinventing themselves. 

For some, this entails re-introducing an heirloom grape variety, for others 

creating a brand aimed at making a name for themselves and appealing to new 

consumers. But they all stress that passion, determination and adaptation are 

the essential ingredients for standing out from the crowd. Ultimately, their stories 

highlight the potential for innovation that exists even in the most traditional 

wine regions, stressing that the future of the Médoc, just like its past, will 

be written by enterprising pioneers. 


ANORA, THE BIRTH OF A WINE 

AND SPIRITS GIANT 

BY ISABELLE ESCANDE 


OF THE COMPANY 

You may not have heard of Anora yet, but since 2021 the company has become the 

new leader in beverage alcohol across the Nordic countries. Specialising in the 

production, import, export and distribution of wines and spirits, it is on track to 

become a global sales powerhouse. Its rapid growth compels admiration, as do its 

innovative, high-performance initiatives including the creation of some mouldbreaking 

brands. 

JACEK PASTUSZKA, ANORA CEO 

LÉGENDES 


89

THE KOSKENKORVA DISTILLERY 

IN FINLAND 

SUSTAINABILITY HAS ALWAYS 

BEEN A LINCHPIN OF THE 

COMPANY’S GROWTH STRATEGY 

B 

ut first a look at the company’s origins. Anora may well be young, but it did not 

appear out of nowhere. Far from it. It stems from the merger of two companies, 

one Finnish, Altia – a well-established producer and marketer of alcoholic drinks in 

Nordic markets and the Baltic countries –the other Arcus, the largest wine importer 

and spirits producer in Norway. Anora, which is known for its import and distribution 

activities, also owns a broad-ranging portfolio of brands, some of which 

have a long-standing history. Linie, the group’s oldest firm, is a case in point – its 

story dates back to 1805 and it produces an aquavit which is matured in the sea and 

has become an icon. 

But Linie is not the only brand to boast time-honoured traditions. If you are a 

spirits enthusiast, names like Koskenkorva and O.P. Anderson will be familiar to 

you. Well-established companies like these sit comfortably alongside more recent 

brands within the Scandinavian group. They have also carved out a name for themselves 

as innovative, disruptive stable mates which bring a new perspective to the 

world of wines and spirits. Although they have a strong following in the markets of 

Northern Europe, they are also gradually gaining traction internationally. 

One such example is Chill Out. It cannot be classed as a newcomer as it’s been 

around for 20 years in the Swedish market, but it has drawn attention for its novel 

packaging. Its recycled PET bottles and 100% recyclable boxes epitomise its relaxed, 

consumer-centric approach to wine. The packaging is practical, light and easy to 

carry and it is designed to make consumers’ lives simpler. In fact, the brand has just 

launched a 1.5-litre bag-in-box of organic Zinfandel from Italy, shares Anna Bastin 

Löwgren, Chill Out’s brand owner. The format breaks with the customary 3-litre 

box tradition and is designed to offer a more appropriate solution for households. 


SCANDINAVIA 

FOCUS 

ALTERNATIVES TO GLASS BOTTLES 

The formats are not only convenient, they are also sustainable. That’s because 

Chill Out believes that an environmentally-friendly policy is a central tenet that 

should not just be applied to producing the contents. Tetra packaging, which is 

particularly popular in Finland where it is growing, “produces fewer CO2 emissions 

than other types of packaging”, explains Bastin Löwgren. “Chill Out will 

never produce heavy glass bottles. It simply is not our ethos”. 

Glass bottles are indeed heavy and very energy-intensive – to produce, transport 

and recycle – which makes them the biggest contributor to greenhouse gas 

emissions in the wine industry. By way of comparison, a 3-litre bag-in-box has a 

carbon footprint six times lower than a 75 cl bottle. 

Chill Out has therefore developed alternatives to reduce the carbon footprint of 

its containers, and goes to great lengths to do so. For example, the plastic handles 

on its boxes and the taps are now made from transparent plastic because black 

ANNA BASTIN LÖWGREN, BRAND OWNER AT CHILL OUT 


91

@Danger Österlin 

@Danger Österlin 

CHILL OUT’S BOXES ARE EASY TO DISMANTLE AND CAN BE 

SORTED EASILY 

ANORA HAS DEVELOPED ALTERNATIVE APPROACHES TO GLASS PACKAGING 

plastic cannot be recycled. The pouches have been made lighter and produced 

with no metal parts in order to facilitate recycling. And the PET bottles are all 

made from 100% recycled plastic. “This is unique”, stresses Bastin Löwgren. “We 

are very proud of our innovative containers”. 

“LET’S DRINK BETTER” 

This sustainable approach is probably the common denominator between all the 

brands in the Anora portfolio. In fact, the group’s motto is “Let’s drink better”, 

comments Bastin Löwgren. And sustainability is at the core of its policy. “It is 

one of our priorities. We are investing a lot of money and time to produce better, 

more flavourful and environmentally-friendly products”. 

Everything has been adapted so that Anora’s own production, based on the 

circular economy, can become carbon neutral by 2030, with no offsets. Thirty 

percent of their grain-based spirits will be grown using regenerative farming 

techniques. Regenerative farming aims to restore health in the soils by promoting 

biodiversity, among other aspects, so that they can capture more carbon 

naturally – and thereby help mitigate climate change – and be less prone to erosion. 

Obviously, water management is one of the group’s major concerns. In fact, 

it protects underground water areas the size of 1,500 football pitches. 

This sense of responsibility within the group predictably also involves social 


SCANDINAVIA 

FOCUS 

aspects. It belongs to The United Nations Global 

Compact, the largest global initiative for sustainability, 

which is a platform of collective actions 

fostering fairer and more inclusive companies. 

Anora advocates transparency and respect for 

human rights at every level of production. It 

also promotes diversity and equality, with 40% 

of board positions occupied by women. Through 

this, Anora demonstrates how its commitment 

goes way beyond the environment alone. In fact, 

it has developed a broad range of alcohol-free or 

low alcohol products, both in the wine and spirits 

categories. In 2022 alone, 26 NOLO products 

were launched by the group. 

TRAVEL RETAIL IS ALSO AN IMPORTANT SALES CHANNEL FOR THE 

GROUP AS IT HELPS GROW THE COMPANY’S GLOBAL REPUTATION 

A SUCCESSFUL BUSINESS MODEL 

Anora has always placed sustainability at the core 

of its strategy, as both a driver of growth and value 

creation. In fact, it offers tangible proof of 

the success of this business model, generating 

revenue of 703 million euros in 2022 with a staff 

of 1,200. Its portfolio continues to expand – in 

2022, it took over Globus Wine, Denmark’s leading 

wine company. By acquiring new brands 

and diversifying its listings, it has strengthened 

its presence in the Nordic markets. 

Obviously, the story doesn’t end here. To promote 

growth, the company also focuses on its iconic 

brands, its constant innovations, on creating digital 

channels and on its distribution business. It 

has just signed an agreement with AB InBev to 

market some of its famous beers – Corona, Stella 

Artois and Budweiser – in the on-trade in Finland 

and Norway. The move underscores the group’s 

determination not to just focus on the off-trade. 

The on-trade is also an area where Anora seems 

intent on becoming a major player, particularly in 

international markets. It already exports to over 

30 countries. The aim is “to introduce the world 

to the finest products from the Nordic countries 

and to introduce the Nordic countries to the world’s 

finest products”. There is no denying that 

Anora is gearing up to become one of the world’s 

leading players. 

ANORA DISTRIBUTES RENOWNED BRANDS LIKE LOUIS ROEDERER 

CHAMPAGNES, JACK DANIELS AND FERNET BRANCA 


93

BEAUMES-DE-VENISE, CAIRANNE, 

GIGONDAS, RASTEAU AND VINSOBRES, 

FIVE SOUTHERN JEWELS IN THE 

RHONE VALLEY CROWN 

BY JEAN-PAUL BURIAS 



In 2022, the Rhone Valley marketed 329 million bottles and shipped wines to 

186 countries, making it one of France’s premier wine regions. Amidst a galaxy 

of legendary appellations like Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Côte-Rôtie and Crozes- 

Hermitage, five less publicised southern growths each offer some incredible pours. 

HARVESTING WITH THE MONT VENTOUX IN THE BACKDROP AT DOMAINE SAINT AMANT 


RHONE VALLEY 

TERROIRS 

ELOÏSE NOSWORTHY, BRIGITTE, DOROTHEE AND SIMON HEADING OFF TO HARVEST 

Amidst stunning scenery, the tranquil waters of the Rhone flow towards the South and 

the Mediterranean Sea where extensive swathes of vineyards sit amidst garrigue, 

lavender fields and olive groves. The bountiful, powerful river cuts through the entire Rhone 

Valley, shaping both its character and its vineyard sites. The region’s reputation is fuelled 

by top appellations like Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Côte-Rôtie and Crozes-Hermitage and it 

has successfully overcome its image as a purveyor of easy-drinking, robust, crowd-pleasing, 

entry-level wines. For many years now, this simplistic equation has been quashed by a 

quantum leap in quality stemming from impeccable control over crop yields. The 17 Côtes du 

Rhône growths now also showcase more under-the-radar appellations including Beaumesde-Venise, 

Cairanne, Gigondas, Rasteau and Vinsobres, where we headed to meet some of 

the winegrowers. The results lived up to our expectations, offering a wide variety of genuine, 

elegant treasures which fully epitomise the quintessential qualities of their vineyard sites, 

climate and remarkable craftsmanship. 

BEAUMES-DE-VENISE 

DOMAINE SAINT AMANT: A WINERY THAT 

TAKES THE HIGH ROAD 

At the foot of a mountain range where the picturesque Dentelles de Montmirail soar towards 

the sky, Beaumes-de-Venise stands like an enclave in the heart of Provence. This lush oasis 

is seemingly buoyed by its flowers, olive groves and vineyards that produce unique wines. 

Founded by Jacques Wallut in 1995, the family-run Saint Amant winery is managed by a 

dynamic mother-sister duo, namely Camille and Eloïse Nosworthy. Nestled amidst the 

mountains, at 600 metres above sea level on the south-eastern slopes of mount Saint- 


95

RHONE VALLEY 

TERROIRS 

CAMILLE NOSWORTHY HARVESTING AT DOMAINE SAINT AMANT 

Amand, its peak, the 13 hectares under vine are 

dotted across small terraces. These are lined with 

banks that are home to broom, almond trees, rock 

roses, thyme and rosemary, and surrounded by 

woodland, fruit trees and pines, all of them living 

in perfect harmony with abundant biodiversity. 

“Our vines benefit from the coolness stemming 

from the elevation and contrasting temperatures 

between day and night which promote slower 

ripening and slightly more pronounced acidity”, 

explains Camille Nosworthy. “Our aim is to showcase 

the coolness of altitude whose defining 

feature is a complex terroir, often with a dash 

of salinity”. High-elevation sites play a pivotal 

role, with very forward freshness, appetising 

fruit, and very supple tannins in the red wines 

which flirt with the best. “It is impossible, and 

unthinkable, to rival Châteauneuf-du-Pape, which 

is a sacrosanct institution”, adds Eloïse Nosworthy. 

“Beaumes-de-Venise is a full-fledged growth in the 

southern Rhone Valley, with a distinctive rooting 

in the Dentelles de Montmirail. Sometimes we 

struggle to emerge from the shadows of our two 

neighbours, Vacqueyras and Gigondas. But we are 

convinced that Beaumes-de-Venise will successfully 

find its place among the top wine regions in 

the South of France”. 

NB: Domaine Saint Amant is spelled with a T, and 

Mont Saint Amand with a D. 

MAX THOMAS TASTING WINES AT DOMAINE LUCIEN TRAMIER 

CAIRANNE 

DOMAINE LUCIEN TRAMIER: 

A CENTURY OF EXCELLENCE 

Domaine Lucien Tramier is a remarkable 

100-year-old winery which has been growing 

vines in unique Rhone Valley sites since 1912. The 

variety of soils and range of aspects of the vineyard 

blocks promotes production of prized signature 

wines. As the heir to this authentic legacy, fourth-generation 

winegrower Max Thomas has been 

running the winery since 2007. “The clay-limestone 

soils enable us to produce wines with finesse 

that stay fresh, despite the hot summer weather”, 

he explains. “At every level of our ranges, including 


RHONE VALLEY 

TERROIRS 

our Cairanne, we focus primarily on ‘palatability’ 

when our wines are young. Right from the first 

few months, our wines are enjoyable, and you 

don’t necessarily have to wait several years for 

them to be ready to drink”. The grapes are picked 

at peak ripeness, without extended hang times, 

so that the sugars and acids are balanced. Finesse, 

elegance and freshness are the guiding principles 

at the winery, with variations depending on the 

sites, but invariably the best value for money 

possible. “Since Cairanne became a Cru in 2015, we 

have witnessed increased interest in the appellation”, 

stresses Benjamin Laigle, the winery’s sales 

manager. “Depending on the markets, being able 

to provide Cairanne is a definite plus point. It is 

an upcoming appellation where every parameter 

is progressing in leaps and bounds, both in terms 

of awareness and quality, with a high proportion 

of independent and young winegrowers who want 

to push the boundaries”. 

MAX THOMAS AND LUCIEN TRAMIER, PASSING SKILLS DOWN THROUGH THE FAMILY 

GIGONDAS 

GIGONDAS LA CAVE: 

A MAJOR PLAYER 

THE GRAPE HARVEST AT GIGONDAS LA CAVE 

Tradition often creates a virtuous circle. For over 

sixty years, the co-operative winery in Gigondas 

has been a major player in the Gigondas appellation, 

bordering on the neighbouring appellation 

areas of Vacqueyras and Beaumes-de-Venise. Its 

members show great respect for their outstanding 

vineyard sites and farm them with passion so 

that they can take high-quality fruit to the winery. 

“We are not really in competition with the other 

Rhone Valley growths”, claims the director Christophe 

Esclangon. “I think we’re complementary. 

The vineyards of Gigondas produce finer, more 

delicate wines. They are highly prized by our 

customers, our aim being to seek out complexity 

without the wines being overly powerful. Drinkability 

is increasingly prioritised and it’s a criteria 

that we focus on”. The Gigondas appellation is 

renowned and recognised, offering consistent 

quality at competitive prices. And that is undeniably 

a real bonus in export markets. 


97

RHONE VALLEY 

TERROIRS 

FAMILLE CHERON: GENUINE 

PLEASURE 

YVES CHERON AND HIS DAUGHTER ELISA 

MARTY ECHEREI, ELISA CHERON’S HUSBAND, WHO JOINED 

THE ESTATE IN 2020 

The Chéron family continues to build upon the 

achievements of five generations of winemakers 

who, over the years, have established a distinctive 

signature style through outstanding wines. 

Crafting wine implies making a pledge to arouse 

emotions and act as a catalyst for enjoyable occasions 

and shared happiness, whilst also safeguarding 

the rich and varied legacy of vineyard sites. 

As a fifth-generation winegrower, Elisa Cheron 

has left her own personal stamp on winemaking, 

maturation and bottling, ultimately leading to 

great finesse in the wines. “We are convinced 

that only natural balance can shape authentic, 

meaningful and flavourful wines”, she claims. 

“We seek out the most genuine, purest expression 

of our vineyard sites. We humbly try and 

understand the specific features of our soils and 

vineyard blocks. Although the desire for balance is 

the guiding principle behind our blends, our daily 

focus is on achieving site-expressiveness in its 

most natural state”. The result is quite simply stunning 

wines brimming with harmony and finesse 

that offer great pleasure for consumers. 

RASTEAU 

MAISON SAFRANIER: A FUSION 

OF TWO LIKE-MINDED PEOPLE 

Maison Safranier encapsulates the encounter 

between two passionate wine enthusiasts who 

have created an entirely new concept that is 

elegant, focused and pure. Seasoned winegrower 

Claude Hilt founded Villa Safranier in 2010. Land 

was painstakingly acquired in some of France’s 

finest vineyard sites, primarily in Rasteau and 

Châteauneuf-du-Pape. When Isabelle Thomas 

Moine joined him as consultant winemaker in 

2014, it marked a new turning point for the estate. 

Her meticulous work throughout the winemaking 

and blending process paved the way for Villa 

Safranier to secure unanimous recognition for its 

outstanding quality and faithful rendition of the 


A SURPRISE IN THE TANKS 

AT DOMAINE SAINT AMANT 

VINEYARDS BELONGING 

TO THE GIGONDAS 

CO-OPERATIVE WINERY 

THE CHERON FAMILY 


99

CLAUDE HILT WAS THE ORIGINAL DRIVING FORCE 

BEHIND MAISON SAFRANIER 

ISABELLE THOMAS MOINE 

original vineyard sites. In 2020, Claude Hilt and Isabelle Thomas Moine embarked on a new 

challenge and created Maison Safranier with the ambition of developing mould-breaking, 

enterprising wines. “The countryside around Rasteau has distinctive rolling hills”, explains 

Thomas Moine. “The location creates a range of microclimates offering the opportunity to 

choose the best aspect for each grape variety, based on their specific needs in terms of sunshine 

and airflow”. Rasteau is home to substantial biodiversity with an array of flora and fauna that 

contribute to environmental balance in the vineyards and have a positive impact on vine health 

and the quality of the fruit. “We don’t feel that there is any rivalry, but rather complementarity 

between us and appellations like, say, Châteauneuf-du-Pape”, says Hilt. “The two growths offer 

outstanding showcases for the variety of vineyard sites in the Rhone Valley. Rasteau displays 

distinctive generosity and power, whereas Châteauneuf-du-Pape is valued for its finesse and 

freshness. Rasteau is a renowned appellation, boasting a long-standing history and established 

reputation for quality which facilitates sales in international markets”. Maison Safranier 

produces a wide selection of wines, ranging from powerful, complex reds to generous sweet 

dessert wines. This variety helps it match the differing tastes and preferences of consumers 

globally from the heart of a region replete with internationally renowned, top appellations. 

MAISON LUMIAN & BONNEFOY: A WINNING COMBINATION 

Organic winegrowers Gilles Phétisson and Caroline Bonnefoy have been working together 

since 2005. They make their wines separately, from the 35-hectare Lumian vineyard for 

Phétisson and at Bonnefoy for her. On sites located between 360 and 380 metres above sea 


CAROLINE BONNEFOY IN HER VINEYARDS 

level with clay and brown limestone pebble-strewn soils facing South, Maison Lumian & 

Bonnefoy covers 45 hectares under vine straddling four appellations - Valréas, Beaumes-de- 

Venise, Ventoux and Rasteau. “We strive to offer the finest rendition of our vineyard sites”, says 

Bonnefoy. “The cool subsoil and elevation of 210 to 260 metres for the hillsides make this one 

of the latest-ripening parts of the appellation area. We can wait for phenolic ripeness without 

generating excessive alcohol content”. The southern aspect of the hillside sites, sheltered from 

the Mistral wind by the state-owned forest to the North, along with the brown limestone 

pebbles on the surface, promote ripening in the Grenache vines. The earlier-ripening Syrah 

benefits from cooler temperatures due to a nearby spring. 

VINSOBRES 

DOMAINE LE MIRABEAU: SCALING THE HEIGHTS 

Facing the Mont Ventoux, Vinsobres is the first Rhone Valley Cru in the Provence part of 

Drôme, the most southerly part of the Auvergne-Rhônes-Alpes region. Located thirty or 

so kilometres from Châteauneuf-du-Pape, it produces rich, ample wines due to its terroir 

and remarkable exposure. The reds display minerality which lends them specific characters 

and ageability. Philippe Wallon and his son Sébastien farm 5 hectares of vineyards and limit 

production at Domaine Le Mirabeau to 10,000 bottles blended from 70% Grenache and 30% 

Syrah – the wines have been awarded a Gilbert & Gaillard gold medal. “The uniqueness of 

our vineyard sites stems from the appellation’s location”, explains Philippe Wallon. Set at 400 

metres above sea level, Vinsobres is the highest Cru in the entire Rhone Valley. “On top of this 

is the nearby Mont Ventoux which creates a hot climate during the day and cool tempera- 


101

RHONE VALLEY 

TERROIRS 

tures overnight”. The resultant wines benefit from 

these outstanding conditions and show distinctive 

fresh fruit notes and silky, elegant tannins that 

guarantee good cellaring capacity. 

PHILIPPE WALLON, THE OWNER OF DOMAINE LE MIRABEAU 

DOMAINE SAINT VINCENT: 

UNIQUE NORTHERN CHARACTERS 

PHILIPPE LESCOCHE, THE WINEGROWER AND OWNER AT 

DOMAINE SAINT VINCENT IN THE CELLAR DOOR FACILITIES 

Domaine Saint Vincent was established in 1920 

but reached a turning point in its history in 2012. 

After being owned by three generations of the 

same family, this outstanding winery was bought 

by the Lescoche family whose ambition was to 

build on previous achievements and continue to 

promote its quality and prestige. The 50-hectare 

vineyard is mostly planted to Grenache and 

Syrah, the region’s iconic grape varieties. The 

vines are lovingly farmed in a way that honours 

ancient traditions. “Vinsobres is a village and a 

hilltop appellation which boasts 1,375 hectares of 

terraced vineyards located between 200 and 450 

metres above sea level”, comments owner Philippe 

Lescoche. The appellation is sheltered by a microclimate 

and its vineyards in the shape of an amphitheatre. 

Its felicitous, and unique location make 

it a southern growth with a northern accent – the 

wines are fruity and generous. Its high elevation 

vineyard sites and upfront freshness are its defining 

features. “Our vineyards promote wines that 

are less driven by alcohol and are fresher on the 

palate”, claims Ludivine Lescoche, the owner’s 

daughter and head of sales. “Vinsobres wines are 

also very age-worthy and will usually keep for up 

to ten years. Winemaking and maturation techniques 

bring out their full aromatic potential. 

Unfortunately, though, they are still very much 

under the radar in export markets. Depending 

on the country, trade customers sometimes do 

not differentiate between a generic Côtes-du- 

Rhône and a Rhone Valley growth”. Domaine 

Saint Vincent turns the spotlight on the typicity 

and identity of Cru Vinsobres. The Grenache-Syrah 

blends display great aromatic profiles. The wines 

are supple and balanced with silky tannins lending 

structure and superb elegance. 


LUDIVINE LESCOCHE, DAUGHTER 

OF THE OWNER AT DOMAINE 

SAINT VINCENT WITH HER 

PARTNER GUILLAUME COIN, 

THE SALES MANAGER 

VIBRANT GROWTHS BURSTING WITH VITALITY 

Set at the pinnacle of the top French wine regions, the Rhone Valley is home to a remarkable 

17 Crus, several of which are internationally renowned. Behind the major names, these 

southern appellations appeal for their remarkable quality. Winegrowers in Beaumes-de-Venise, 

Cairanne, Gigondas, Rasteau and Vinsobres have successfully leveraged their prime location, 

terroir, exceptional sunshine and iconic grape varieties. Grenache ensures high alcohol potential, 

whilst Syrah displays abundant aromatics and Mourvèdre instils refined spicy notes in 

the wines. For a majority of wineries, the results are stunning with fruit-forward wines that 

express very elegant roundness. Also, and this is an important cue for the end consumer, their 

very attractive price point is an undeniable bonus. In a highly competitive marketplace replete 

with wine, these five growths produce a constellation of great wines that fully deserved to be 

discovered and enjoyed. 

KEY FACTS AND FIGURES 

Beaumes-de-Venise Cairanne Gigondas Rasteau Vinsobres 

AOC since 2005 AOC since 2016 AOC since 1971 AOC since 2010 AOC since 2006 

692 ha 1,088 ha 1,186 ha 961 ha 522 ha 

20,304 hl 30,000 hl 32,986 hl 31,747 hl 17,223 hl 

9% exports 45% exports 32% exports 29% exports 38% exports 


103

ARGENTINA, A LONG-STANDING 

TRADITION OF ORGANIC WINES 

BY MAURICIO LLAVER 



A climate with little rainfall and plenty of sunshine has traditionally promoted 

healthy vines and wines in Argentina. However, a growing number of wineries are 

securing international certifications for their organic and biodynamic wines. And 

the trend is quickly gaining traction. 

WITH THE ANDES MOUNTAINS AS A BACKDROP, DOMAINE BOUSQUET HAS BEEN ORGANIC SINCE ITS INCEPTION IN 1997 


ARGENTINA 

ORGANIC 

JEAN BOUSQUET ENJOYING TIME WITH HIS FRIENDS AT HIS MENDOZA PROJECT 

The great Argentinean food journalist, Miguel Brascó, used to say that in Argentina 

all wines were organic without the need for certification, because the 

paucity of rain and abundance of sunshine in the wine regions removed the need 

for fertilisers in the vineyards. 

However, the tendency to certify vineyards is growing, as evidenced by the figures: 

79 wineries produce organic wines, and 69 of them export their products; the most 

prolific organic varietal is Malbec, and the main markets are the European Union 

(64%), the United Kingdom (14%), Switzerland (3%) and Japan (2%). Within the 

European Union, the largest destinations are Denmark and Sweden. 

In recent years, organic production has grown at rates of around 10% per year, and 

most of the wineries that have not yet certified their products are in the process of 

doing so. The situation could be summarised as follows: the trail has been blazed 

and the trend is irreversible. 

JEAN BOUSQUET, THE FRENCH PIONEER 

In 1997, Jean Bousquet sold his winery in Carcassonne and set off in search of new 

horizons to develop organic wines. He farmed vineyards in Chile and Argentina, 

until he found his place in the new world: Gualtallary, Tupungato, in Mendoza’s 

Uco Valley, which soon became one of the most coveted regions for Argentinean 

and international wineries. 

Some Gualtallary locals still remember the “crazy Frenchman”, who invested in 

land here at a time when nobody else did, and who would point to the tree tops 


105

LÉGENDES 

JEAN BOUSQUET, THE FRENCH PIONEER 

IN GUALTALLARY 

GUILLAUME BOUSQUET, ANNE BOUSQUET AND LABID AL AMERI 

on his farm every day and say: “Look at how the leaves are moving. That wind is the 

key to the healthiness of this location, which is perfect for growing large vineyards”. 

Jean Bousquet is now one of the great advocates of organic viticulture in Argentina, 

with 40 hectares of vineyards and a winery entirely certified organic. All the winery’s 

practices are organic, using liquid organic fertilisers rich in natural nutrients and 

natural ground cover between the rows, among other techniques. 

Its 40 hectares include the following varietals: Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet 

Franc, Merlot, Garnacha, Mourvedre, Syrah, Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay and 

Sauvignon Blanc. 

“All our lines are organic. We have all the certifications and matching logos, which we 

communicate on our labels. And we also make organic sparkling and frizzantes, which 

is not very common”, says a spokesperson from the winery’s marketing department. 

“In many markets it is a plus to offer organic or biodynamic wines. Demand for this 

type of wine is growing, so we know that this will be increasingly important”. 

Jean Bousquet markets two product lines: Santa Bax, in honour of Jean’s mother, whose 

surname was Bax, and Papillon. Its export markets are Brazil, Canada, Switzerland, 

the Netherlands and the United States. 

DOMAINE BOUSQUET, THE BIODYNAMIC TRAILBLAZER 

Domaine Bousquet has been an organic project since its foundation in 1997, in 

uncharted and unknown territory. Since then, everything it has developed is 100% 

organic. Its vineyards are located in Gualtallary. 

In latter years, much of the estate has switched to biodynamic viticulture and a 360˚ 

sustainable approach has been taken in the vineyards and winery. Biodiversity is a key 

focus in the vineyards, as is a pioneering water conservation initiative, solar power 

in the winery, use of lightweight bottles and a commitment to bottling some lines 


DOMAINE BOUSQUET WAS THE FOURTH WINERY IN THE WORLD TO ACHIEVE REGENERATIVE ORGANIC CERTIFICATION (ROC) 

in domestic markets to reduce carbon emissions. The winery has also pioneered the 

production of wines with no added SO₂. 

“We are always looking to improve and our efforts are now focused on Regenerative 

Viticulture, which is a natural progression beyond sustainability. We were the fourth 

winery in the world to achieve Regenerative Organic Certification (ROC) status in June 

2022 and we became B Corp certified at the end of 2022”, explains Anne Bousquet, the 

CEO of Domaine Bousquet. 

The entire portfolio of wines is organic and, from the 2022 vintage, two of its premium 

ranges – Ameri and Gaia – are biodynamic. 

“Sweden leads the way in terms of its focus on organic wine and has always been a key 

market for Domaine Bousquet. We met with Systembolaget almost two decades ago 

and at that time less than 1% of the wines sold there were organic. We offered our wines 

in a specific tender for organic wines, which we subsequently won. The success of this 

led Systembolaget to announce new tenders for organic wines, and it subsequently 

set a target of 20% of all wine sales to be organic by 2020. Today in Sweden, 26% of the 

wines sold are organic - the highest percentage in the world, as the world average is 

about 2% - and Domaine Bousquet continues to be successful there”, Bousquet adds. 

The main ranges are Domaine Bousquet Premium Varietals Virgin (with no added 

sulphites); Domaine Bousquet Reserve Gaia; Domaine Bousquet Gran Reserve Ameri 

Alavida (Kosher); Domaine Bousquet Sparkling; Domaine Bousquet Cameleon 

Finca Lalande. 

FINCA BANDINI, THE PUREST WATER IN THE ANDES 

In 2015, Federico Bandini from Mendoza, who lives in Houston, Texas, decided to 

develop a winemaking project in his native Luján de Cuyo. He christened it ‘Finca 

Bandini’ and entrusted the project to Carolina Pelayes, who has since become the CEO 


107

ARGENTINA 

ORGANIC 

of the venture. Bandini acquired a 70-hectare estate on the edge of the Andes Mountains in 

the Las Compuertas Geographical Indication area. 

Finca Bandini receives the first water from the Andes, when the thaw begins, after the winter 

snowfalls. And that is the hallmark of the entire project. 

The relationship with water is so important that two of its lines bear names related to its 

occurrence on the estate. One is Los Muros, inspired by the locks from which water was administered 

for the areas of Las Compuertas and Vistalba, and the other is Dos Cauces, named 

after the meltwater streams of the Andes that bathe the property’s land. “The challenge was 

enormous”, recalls Pelayes. “We had to rebuild the estate, define an agronomic proposition 

from scratch, build the well and a dam, design the irrigation system, relocate more than 

4,000 olive trees and plant and convert 59 hectares of Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet 

Franc and Petit Verdot, on an estate where there were only 15 hectares of vines. It was a very 

ambitious master plan.” 

In just a few years, the winery has already secured important exports to the US and Brazilian 

markets, with Alberto Moreno’s guidance as winemaker and consultancy by Marcelo Pelleriti, who 

has experience in Mendoza and Pomerol, Bordeaux, where he produced wines by Chateau La 

Violette and Chateau Le Gay. In addition to Los Muros (Blanc de Blancs, Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon) 

and Dos Cauces (Blanc de Blancs, Malbec), the estate’s lines include Terroir Único Bandini 

House of Wines, Magno Corpore (Malbec), Bandini Malbec Rosé and the sparkling wine Aurum, 

made from Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Gewürztraminer. 

Finca Bandini only produces high-end wines, certified for its Good Agricultural Practices 

and organic techniques. “For us, the commitment is to care for the environment. We do it 

out of conviction, not because our distributors compel us to do so”. 

CAROLINA PELAYES, CEO OF FINCA BANDINI 


JEAN BOUSQUET HAS 40 

HECTARES OF CERTIFIED 

ORGANIC VINEYARDS 

FINCA BANDINI HAS 59 HECTARES 

OF MALBEC, CABERNET 

SAUVIGNON, CABERNET FRANC 

AND PETIT VERDOT 

GUSTAVO SANTAOLALLA, 

TWO-TIME ACADEMY 

AWARD WINNER 


109

JUAN CARLOS CHAVERO WHO 

HAS BEEN TASKED WITH MAKING 

WINES AT CIELO Y TIERRA FROM 

THE START 

CIELO Y TIERRA, MUSICAL ROOTS 

Cielo y Tierra is a project that was born with musical roots, driven by the Argentinean 

composer Gustavo Santaolalla, winner of the Oscar for the best musical score for two consecutive 

years, with the films Brokeback Mountain (2005) and Babel (2006). 

In 2005, coinciding with his first Hollywood Academy Award, Santaolalla acquired an estate 

in Luján de Cuyo with eight hectares planted with Malbec, two with Cabernet Sauvignon 

and one with Petit Verdot, from which he created his wines Celador and Don Juan Nahuel. 

Winemaker Juan Carlos Chavero says that from the very beginning they made high-end 

wines, selling around 2,000 cases a year. In 2015, the project underwent a major change 

with the arrival of three new partners - Juan Pisani, Diego Bertani and Ezequiel García - 

who joined forces with Santaolalla and gave Cielo y Tierra a new marketing twist. 

“The new partners were part of the distribution company Arcombe (Argentina Comercializadora 

de Bebidas), which produces the vodka brands New Style and Bar & Pub’s”, explains 

Chavero. “In 2017, we created a mid-range wine called Callejón de las Brujas, offering great 

value for money, which is distributed through Arcombe’s sales channels. This allowed us 

to ramp up our sales and today we sell 22,000 cases a year, 80% of them under the Callejón 

de las Brujas brand”. Cielo y Tierra adheres to Good Agricultural Practices (GAP), with the 

use of natural fertilisers, and at the request of its distributors in Brazil, the company is in 

the process of achieving ISO 14000 certification. 

The next target is the European market, as Santaolalla has always aspired to marketing his 

wines in Europe. “Gustavo loves Europe, its wines and its music. From the outset, he asked 

me to make New World wines with Old World notes”, recounts Chavero. And Europe is now 

squarely in their sights. 


MALBEC-MALBEC STEMS 

FROM A CO-FERMENTATION 

OF GRAPES FROM ALTAMIRA 

AND LA CONSULTA 

UCO VALLEY, AND ITS SUSTAINABLE WINES 

Located in the Uco Valley is the Uco Valley winery, producer of Kauzo, which 

means ‘place’ in Esperanto. Kauzo Co-fermented Malbec-Malbec is produced 

here, using grapes from two very traditional areas: Altamira and La Consulta. 

“Altamira brings fruit and minerality, and represents the backbone of our wine. 

La Consulta contributes to fleshiness and elegance, lending succulence as well 

as the soft tannins typical of Malbec”, explains Miguel Priore, the winery’s CEO. 

Uco Valley “works with our producers to grow grapes and produce wine in a 

sustainable and environmentally-friendly way. This involves using natural and 

organic methods to maintain the health of the vineyard and the quality of the 

wine, minimising the use of chemicals and synthetic pesticides. We are consolidating 

these practices and have already started the sustainability certification 

process for Bodegas de Argentina”. 

Malbec-Malbec is vegan and GMP certified, which is stated on the back labels. 

Its main markets are the United States, Brazil and Israel. Today the winery 

is focusing on entering the Canadian market, which is very strict in terms of 

environmental standards. These include the weight of the glass bottles, with a 

view to reducing energy consumption, carbon footprint and logistics costs, and 

the marketing of wines with organic, biodynamic or sustainable certifications. 

“Although they are a challenge for us, we approach all these variables with a very 

positive attitude, convinced that they are in line with our philosophy and contribute 

to compromising the needs of future generations as little as possible”, 

says Priore. 


111

CANTINE VOLPI 

FROM ‘OSTERIA’ TO CUTTING-EDGE 

PIEDMONT ADVOCATE 

BY ELLEN BUDGE 


OF THE WINERY 

Cantine Volpi is the epitome of what Italy does best – fusing native grape varieties 

and tradition with innovative winemaking techniques and astute marketing. 

Fifth-generation winegrower Marco Volpi pinpoints some of the landmark 

moments in the company’s 100-year history, and details its plans for the future. 

CARLO VOLPI (LEFT) WITH HIS SON MARCO, WHOSE WINERY IS STRATEGICALLY LOCATED AT THE CROSSROADS OF FOUR MAJOR ITALIAN WINE 

REGIONS – PIEDMONT, LOMBARDY, EMILIA-ROMAGNA AND LIGURIA 


ITALY 

FOCUS 

CASCINA ‘LA ZERBA’, SET AMIDST THE ROLLING COLLI TORTONESI, WAS BOUGHT BY THE VOLPI FAMILY IN 2003 AND IS NOW THE HOME OF THE 

WINERY’S NEW TASTING ROOM 

Everything about the Tortona area in Italy’s storied Piedmont region speaks wine. Its 

rolling hills are clad with neat rows of vineyards that follow the lay of the land and 

are home to varieties that were once on the brink of extinction. Cantine Volpi has played 

a pivotal part in resurrecting a tradition of winegrowing that dates back to the ancient 

Romans, and its own history mirrors many of the milestones along Italy’s wine journey. 

“Cantine Volpi started in 1914 as a small winery that was complementary to a local ‘Osteria’ 

or typical traditional restaurant. The family would produce the wine that was entirely sold 

in their own restaurant”, recounts Marco Volpi, who joined his father Carlo Volpi and wife 

Laura at the winery in 2019. 

INCREMENTAL PROGRESS 

A major turning point in the company’s history occurred in 1957 when the winery in 

Viguzzolo was built to produce wines from the local Tortona hills. In 1962, the most modern 

winery in Tortona for maturing and bottling wines broke ground, paving the way for Cantine 

Volpi to blaze the trail for quality by securing a controlled designation of origin or DOC for 

its wines in the 1970s. Fast forward to 2019 and the company invested over one million euros 

in a state-of-the-art winery which superseded the Viguzzolo facilities and now handles 

the entire production process, from fermenting the grapes to packaging the end wines. 

The winery is equipped to control temperatures and reduce its energy consumption whilst 


113

ITALY 

FOCUS 

also lowering its carbon footprint by centralising 

its operations. Along its 100-year journey, Cantine 

Volpi has ramped up production which now totals 

some 2.5 million bottles, spanning a number of 

prized DOCs and DOCGs, including Barolo, Gavi, 

Barbera d’Asti and Colli Tortonesi. The fruit is 

sourced from 20 hectares of its own vineyards, 

planted to Timorasso, Barbera, Dolcetto, Moscato 

and Cortese, complemented by Sangiovese and 

Pinot Grigio grapes bought from partner growers 

over 100 hectares of vineyards. 

ALONGSIDE CLASSIC ITALIAN VARIETALS, CANTINE VOLPI ALSO MAKES TIMORASSO, 

RECENTLY DESCRIBED BY THE WINE SPECTATOR AS “ONE OF ITALY’S MOST EXCITING 

WHITE WINE STORIES” 

FROM EXCITING NATIVE GRAPES 

TO RANGE STAPLES 

CANTINE VOLPI COMBINES INNOVATIVE WINEMAKING TECHNIQUES WITH 

TIME-HONOURED TRADITIONS 

The winery’s varietal range features Italian classics 

but also the much lesser-known white Timorasso 

cultivar, described by renowned UK wine 

merchants Berry Bros & Rudd as “one of the most 

exciting Italian autochthonous grape varieties to 

surface in recent years”. Its popularity is echoed 

in the surge in plantings over the past few years – 

after virtually falling into oblivion twenty years 

ago, 400 hectares are now planted to this native 

grape of the Colli Tortonesi. Cantine Volpi celebrates 

the variety in its flagship white label Timorasso 

Derthona, which Marco Volpi describes as 

“an outstanding white wine with many similarities 

to red wines, like its body, structure and 

amazing ageing potential”. Timorasso’s red 

alter ego at the winery is Barbera, its original 

mainstay: “I always mention the fact that Barbera 

is the reason why we exist”, stresses Volpi. “It was 

the first grape we grew more than 100 years ago 

and the first wine we ever sold in our Osteria”. 

Moscato, another historic variety for the winery, 

also joins its varietal line-up. 

ORGANIC WINES KEY TO 

DEVELOPING EXPORTS 

But whilst Cantine Volpi treasures its long-standing 

history of growing wines, it also has its sights 

permanently set on the future. “At the end of the 


ITALY 

FOCUS 

1990s, my father understood that the Italian market was going into a huge decline 

in consumption and decided to try and find new openings in export markets”, 

recounts Marco Volpi. The decision proved to be extremely judicious and 80% of 

the wines are now shipped abroad. To gain a foothold in overseas markets, Cantine 

Volpi chose to step up its environmental commitments and go down the organic 

route, among other strategic decisions. “Organic wines are the reason we have 

been able to open up and develop the export market. Now we are trying to focus 

on turning most of our vineyards and wines from Piedmont organic”. The organic 

labels have been particularly successful in the United States and, predictably, 

the Nordic countries, where sales have grown apace over the past twenty years. 

The winery is continuing to build on these achievements by focusing on other 

sustainable practices: “we use techniques like green manure to enhance biodiversity”, 

explains Volpi. In 2022, the company started and completed the formalisation 

and consolidation process of practices and procedures aimed at achieving 

the sustainable ‘Equalitas’ certification scheme. The initiative dovetails with the 

guiding principles at the winery, where respect is shown for the environment and 

employees, the local area is the focal point of promotion and progress in quality is 

incremental through the use of new technologies. 

MARCO VOLPI WAS RANKED AMONG THE MOST PROMISING UNDER-30S IN THE WORLD OF 

FOOD AND BEVERAGE BY THE S.PELLEGRINO AND ACQUA PANNA DIGITAL MAGAZINE IN 2020 


115

MARCO AND CARLO VOLPI 

INTEND TO FOCUS ON 

PROMOTING PIEDMONT AND 

ITS NATIVE GRAPE VARIETIES 

USING INNOVATION TO COPE WITH A CHANGING 

CLIMATE 

There is every likelihood that technology and native grapes may hold the key 

for coping with issues like climate change in the future. This year, Tortona only 

received 300 mm of rain over the first eight months of the year – and 80 mm in just 

24 hours – compared with an annual average ranging from 800 to 1,100 mm. Whilst 

recognising that climate change is a challenge, the Volpi family is again planning to 

stay ahead of the curve: “We are changing vineyard management techniques, like 

keeping the grapes more covered, but also looking into innovations like hailstorm 

nets and creating water reserves like small lakes close to the vineyards in order to 

have water supplies in case of emergencies”. 

PIEDMONT AND NATIVE GRAPES AS A FOCUS 

Alongside innovative techniques, the winery’s focus will also be on promoting Piedmont 

and its native grape varieties, which have proven to be effective at opening 

up new markets, both at home and abroad. In a challenging global wine market, 

Timorasso offers great opportunities in the on-trade worldwide whilst also helping 

to unearth new opportunities in emerging markets like South Korea, Vietnam and 

Mexico. As an economics graduate with work experience gained from a four-year 

stint in supply chain management and commerce at the Heineken group, Marco 

Volpi is well-equipped to continue in his family’s footsteps and honour the legacy of 

his ancestor Cristina Volpi and her two sons who laid the company’s foundations on 

the eve of the Great War. The fifth-generation family representative intends to wage 

and win his battle by combining history, the unique attributes of his home region 

and ability to adapt to a constantly changing market and environment. 


MICHAEL DOUGLAS: 

“I DISCOVERED AND LEARNED 

TO ENJOY WINE IN FRANCE” 

BY FRANK ROUSSEAU, 

OUR CORRESPONDENT IN LOS ANGELES 

PHOTOGRAPHS: ALL RIGHTS RESERVED 

There’s no denying that at 79, Michael Douglas could be enjoying a welldeserved 

retirement, relaxing on the white sand beaches beneath the 

coconut trees or sipping rosé after a game of golf in the Bahamas. Given 

his successful career and countless box office hits, nobody would have 

held it against him. But that’s not who the prolific and tireless offspring 

of Kirk – aka Spartacus – is. More active than ever, he should soon 

feature in a biopic on Benjamin Franklin, one of the founding fathers of 

the United States of America. In the meantime, let’s raise a toast to this 

lover of fine fare and most Francophile of stars! 

In ‘Disclosure’, filmed in 1994, you had a scene with Demi Moore involving 

a very unusual bottle of wine… 

Yes, it was a bottle of 1991 Napa Valley Pahlmeyer Chardonnay, a very difficult 

wine to find. In his book, Michael Crichton referred to a wine that was very 

hard to come by, but without actually mentioning its name. The script writer, 

Paul Attanasio, had read an article that mentioned a very sought-after wine, 

but he couldn’t find it. Ultimately, it was Demi Moore who managed to get 

hold of a magnum of 1991 Pahlmeyer Chardonnay. She gave the magnum 

to the producer Barry Levinson. The scene was shot and the wine became 

a Hollywood star and gained worldwide recognition for the winery, which 

chose not to increase production, though, making it even more rare. As an 

aside, Barry took the magnum and didn’t share it with the crew! (laughs) 

Is it true that during shooting of ’20,000 Leagues Under the Sea’, your dad, 

the late Kirk Douglas who played a sailor, drank real rum? 

It was the first time I ever saw someone drunk play a guitar with a turtle shell! 

(laughs) My father played a guy who liked to drink. He was very convincing! 

But it was water! One day, I asked him what he drank on the set of ‘Vikings’ 

and he swore it was grape juice. You know what? I had my doubts. As you 

know, Kirk was a real Francophile. In fact, his knowledge of French wines 

was like his career – phenomenal! 

In 2010, a biopsy revealed you had tongue cancer. For the lover of fine 

fare that you are, wasn’t that a real blow? 

After the diagnosis, I underwent an intensive course of chemotherapy 

and radiotherapy for two months. The radiation burnt the inside of my 


117

MICHAEL DOUGLAS WITH FRANK ROUSSEAU 

MICHAEL DOUGLAS WITH HIS WIFE CATHERINE ZETA-JONES 

mouth, so much so that it became almost impossible for me to eat. When I would drink 

Tempranillo, it felt like I was drinking something horrible. I couldn’t taste or smell the 

cherry aromas, the ripe berries or the fruitiness of this iconic Rioja wine that I love so 

much. Since then I have regained my sense of taste. 

Are you a fan of French wines? 

Of course! I discovered and learned to enjoy wine in France. That was way before I 

started going to the Cannes film festival. As a young student, I decided to treat myself 

to a little hitch-hiking trip around Europe. We were due to join Sam Spiegel, a friend 

of my father’s who owned a yacht in Saint-Tropez! On board, Sam served me a nicely 

chilled rosé. It was a revelation! I also used a good bottle of rosé to seduce the woman 

who would become my wife and the mother of my children at the Deauville film festival! 

When I found out that Catherine (Zeta-Jones) was on the verge of leaving for Scotland 

to shoot ‘Entrapment’, I made arrangements so that she received an enormous bouquet 

of roses and a bottle of… rosé! 

As the person who played trader Gordon Gekko in ‘Wall Street’, what would you recommend 

we invest in? 

I would imagine it’s easier to invest in gold than it is in wine! Well of course, because 

you’re not tempted to drink your capital! (laughs) But when I see the price tags of some 

prestige labels, I wonder if it’s perhaps a better idea to cellar some fine wines rather 

than store gold ingots in a safe! 


CONTACT 

DETAILS 

South-West - Pages 10-22 

• Maison Labastide: Tel. +33 5 63 53 73 73 - 

www.cave-labastide.com 

• Château Terride: Tel. +33 5 63 33 26 63 - 

https://chateaudeterride.com 

• Domaine La Croix des Marchand : 

Tel. +33 5 63 57 19 71 - www.croix-des-marchands.fr 

• Château Baudare: Tel. +33 5 63 30 51 33 - 

https://baudare.com/contact 

• Château Bellevue la Forêt: Tel. +33 6 86 44 13 94 - 

www.chateaubellevuelaforet.com 

• Château Lestevenie: Tel. + 33 7 63 03 11 91 - 

www.chateaulestevenie.com 

• Château Poulvère: Tel. +33 5 53 58 30 25 - 

www.poulvere.com 

• Vignobles Borie: Tel. +33 6 34 40 57 57 - 

www.chateaulaforet-bergerac.com 

• Domaine Nigri: Tel. +33 5 59 21 42 01 - 

www.jurancon-domainenigri.com 

Beaujolais - Pages 24-33 

• Maison Coquard: Tel. +33 4 74 71 11 59 - 

www.maison-coquard.com 

• Château du Bluizard: Tel. +33 4 74 03 30 90 - 

www.chateaudubluizard.com 

• Domaine du Père Benoit: Tel. +33 4 74 66 81 20 - 

www.domaine-pere-benoit.fr 

• Domaines Chermette: 

Tel. +33 4 74 71 79 42 - www.chermette.fr 

• Domaine de Baluce: Tel. +33 6 83 88 26 28 - 

www.baluce.fr 

• Maison Jean Loron: Tel. +33 3 85 36 81 20 - 

vinloron@loron.fr 

Portugal - Pages 34-43 

• José Maria da Fonseca: 

Tel. +351 212 198 940 - www.jmfonseca.pt 

• Aveleda: Tel. +351 255 718 200 - www.aveleda.pt 

• Adega Cooperativa de Guimarães: 

Tel. +351 253 570 055 – www.adegaguimaraes.pt 

• Adega de Cantanhede: 

Tel. +351 231 419 540 - www.cantanhede.com 

• João Portugal Ramos: Tel. +351 268 339 910 - 

www.jportugalramos.pt 

South Africa - Pages 44-53 

• Spier: Tel. +27 21 809 1100 - www.spier.co.za 

• De Trafford: Tel. +27 21 880 1611 - 

www.detrafford.co.za 

• Glenelly: Tel. +27 21 809 6440 - 

www.glenellyestate.com 

• David Finlayson Wines: Tel. +27 (0)83 263 4353 - 

www.edgebaston.co.za 

• Keermont: Tel. +27 21 880 0397 - 

www.keermont.co.za 

• Waterford: Tel. +27 21 880 5300 - 

www.waterfordestate.co.za 

• Alto: Tel. +27 21 881 3884 - www.alto.co.za 

• Deux Freres: Tel. +27 21 889 9865 - 

www.dfwines.co.za 

• Simonsig: Tel. +27 21 888 4900 - 

www.simonsig.co.za 

• Cavalli: Tel. +27 21 855 3218 - 

www.cavalliestate.com 

• Ernie Els: Tel. +27 21 881 3588 - 

www.ernieelswines.com 

• Stellenbosch Hills: Tel. + 27 21 881 3828/9 - 

www.stellenbosch-hills.co.za 

• Thelema: Tel. +27 21 8851924 - www.thelema.co.za 

• Stark-Condé: Tel. +27 21 861 7700 - 

www.stark-conde.co.za 

• Kaapzicht: Tel. +27 21 906 1620 - 

www.kaapzicht.co.za 

• Bartinney: Tel. +27 21 885 1013 - 

www.bartinney.co.za 

• Peter Falke: Tel. +27 21 881 3677 - 

www.peterfalkewines.com 

• Tokara: Tel. +27 21 808 5900 - www.tokara.com 

• Kanonkop: Tel. +27 21 884 4656 - 

www.kanonkop.co.za 

• Kleine Zalze: Tel. +27 21 880 0717 - 

www.kleinezalze.co.za 

Lebanon - Pages 53-63 

• Domaine Wardy: Tel. +961 8 930141 - 

www.domainewardy.com 

• Château Héritage: Tel. +961 8 500609 - 

www.chateauheritage.com 

• Château Kefraya: Tel. 961 1 485207 - 

www.chateaukefraya.com 

• Château Trois Collines : 

Tel. +961 1 380664 - www.troiscollines.com 

• Chateau Ka: Tel. + 961 1 899 888 - www.kassatly.net 

• Château Ksara: Tel. +961-8-813495 - 

www.chateauksara.com 

• IXSIR: Tel. +961 9 22 33 50/1 - www.ixsir.com 

• Château Fakra: 

Tel. +961 9 635 111 - www.fakra.com 

Nursery - Pages 64-68 

• Groupe Mercier: Tel. : +33 2 51 00 65 14 - 

www.pepinieres-mercier.com 

Italy - Pages 69-78 

• Arione Wines: Tel. +39 0141 855 116 - www.arione.it 

• Bosca Spa: Tel. +390141967711 - www.bosca.it 

• Casa Vinicola Canella: Tel. +39.0421.52446 or 

+39.0421.53419 - www.bellinicanella.com 

• Perlino Spa: 

Tel. +39 (0)141 446811 - www.perlino.com 

• Spinato: Tel. +39 0422 857927 - www.spinato.it 

• Cantine Sgarzi Luigi: Tel. 39 051 940962 - 

www.cantinesgarzi.com 

Medoc - Pages 79-88 

• Les Vignerons d’Uni-Médoc: 

Tel. +33 5 56 41 03 12 - www.unimedoc.com 

• Producta Vignobles: 

Tel. +33 5 57 81 18 18 - www.producta.com 

• Château Carménère: Tel. +33 6 52 70 63 28 - 

www.chateau-carmenere.fr 

• Domaines Rollan de By: Tel. +33 5 56 41 58 59 - 

www.domaines-rollandeby.com 

• Château Vieux Robin: Tel. +335 56 41 50 64 - 

www.chateau-vieux-robin.com 

Scandinavia - Pages 89-93 

• Anora: Tel. +358 207 013 013 - anora.com 

Rhone Valley - Pages 94-103 

• Domaine Saint Amant: Tel. +33 4 90 62 99 25- 

www.domainesaintamant.com 

• Domaine Lucien Tramier: 

Tel. +33 9 66 83 00 89 - www.lucientramier.fr 

• Gigondas La Cave: 

Tel. +33 4 90 65 86 27 - www.cave-gigondas.fr 

• Famille Cheron: Tel. +33 4.90.65.85.91 - 

www.famillecheron.com 

• Clos Safranier: Tel. +33 6 76 76 43 01 - 

www.lafoliesafranier.com 

• Maison Lumian & Bonnefoy: 

Tel. +33 9 75 66 62 30 - 

www.lumianbonnefoy.com/rouge 

• Domaine Le Mirabeau: Tel. +33 6 03 26 97 96 - 

www.domainelemirabeau.fr 

• Domaine Saint Vincent: Tel. +33 4.75.27.61.10 - 

www.domaine-saint-vincent.com 

Argentina - Pages 104-111 

• Domaine Bousquet: Tel. +54 9 2612 42-8489 - 

www.domainebousquet.com 

• Finca Bandini: +54 9 2613 46-1869 - 

www.fincabandini.com.ar 

• Cielo y Tierra: +54 9 11 5663-8627 - 

www.cieloytierrasa.com.ar 

• Uco Valley: +54 9 2617 60-2578 

Italy / Piedmont - Pages 112-116 

• Cantine Volpi : Tel. +39 0131 861072 - 

https://www.cantinevolpi.it/en-us/ 


119

PAGES 121 TO 130 

TOP WINES 

OUR AUTUMN SELECTION 

AN INTENSE THIRD ROUND OF TASTINGS IN 2023 

Despite the summer holiday season and short break in August, the pace of our tastings 

has remained brisk. Wines from Eastern Europe continue to grow and South America is 

increasingly gaining traction, particularly Argentina - where we opened an office in Mendoza 

in the spring – along with Chile and Uruguay, the continent’s three long-standing producer 

countries. Of course Europe remains in the majority with its robust trio France-Italy-Spain, 

but variety is the name of the game with strong growth from Portugal, as well as Lebanon and 

Greece for example. You could say this is globalisation in a good way! 

PICKING GRAPES BY HAND IN THE RHONE VALLEY WITH VIEWS OVER THE DENTELLES DE MONTMIRAIL 

THE BEST OF AUTUMN 2023 

Our selection, tasted and rated by our panel, is presented on pages 121 to 130. As always, we have chosen to 

present the wines by country (SOUTH AFRICA, PORTUGAL…) then by appellation in each region with 

each company or winery listed in alphabetical order and in descending order of their scores. You will also 

find in this issue our selection of Cabernet Sauvignon wines from South Africa, Portuguese wines, bottlings 

from South-West France, six gems from the southern Rhone Valley and also low alcohol or alcohol-free 

Italian wines, a trend that is increasingly gaining currency internationally. 

THE TASTING PANEL: 

PHILIPPE GAILLARD - FRANÇOIS GILBERT - SYLVAIN PATARD 

FRANÇOIS BEZUIDENHOUT - OLIVIER DELORME – GONZALO FERNANDEZ - MATTHIEU GAILLARD - BRUNO MICHAL – GERALDINE SPENCER - JAMES TURNBULL 


SOUTH AFRICA - WESTERN CAPE 


SOUTH AFRICA 

Here is a selection of Cabernet 

Sauvignons from the Western Cape like 

you have never seen before. These sixty 

or so wines offer irrefutable evidence of 

the fact that the wine region features 

among the highest quality in the 

world, ranking alongside Bordeaux, 

Napa, Sonoma, Mendoza and the more 

recently discovered Margaret River. 

NORTHERN CAPE 

NORTHERN CAPE 

THE HEDGEHOG 87/100 

CR D CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2021 

http://www.orangeriverwines.com Price: € 4.50 

Orange River Cellars +27 543 378 800 

THE HEDGEHOG 85/100 

CR D RUBY CABERNET 2020 

http://www.orangeriverwines.com Price: € 4.00 

Orange River Cellars +27 543 378 800 

WESTERN CAPE 

WESTERN CAPE 

BARTINNEY 95/100 

CR D CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2018: Dark 

ruby. Blackberry fruit and cassis on the dark 

fruit nose. Palate is full and rich with layers of 

dark fruit, jam and black forrest cake. Spicy 

and leathery on the complex and rich aftertaste. 

A big wine that will age for many years. Drin 

through 2030. 

http://www.bartinney.co.za Price: € 32.00 

Bartinney Private Cellar +27 21 885 1013 

BARTINNEY 94/100 

CR D SKYFALL 2018: Dark ruby. Dark fruit 

and plum on the rich nose. Grippy and full on 

the dry and complex palate. Layers of cassis 

and dark fruit on the aftertaste with a spicy and 

leathery note on the finish. Big and bold. Drink 

through 2028. 

http://www.bartinney.co.za Price: € 49.50 

Bartinney Private Cellar +27 21 885 1013 

PETER FALKE 92/100 

D CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2021: Deep 

plum with concentrated core. Medley of dark 

berries, cassis, spearmint and oak spice. Superb 

capacity to carry all aspects to palate. Medium 

to full bodied with an equality of tannins, which 

shows early integration. Great ageing potential. 

http://www.peterfalkewines.com Price: € 30.00 

Peter Falke Wines +27 21 881 3677 

PETER FALKE 91/100 

D SIGNATURE KAILANI CABERNET 

SAUVIGNON 2019: Dark red with haze. Ripe 

nuances, dark fruit, licorice. New oak elevate 

the tannin structure, but coated with fruit and 

savoury characters. Further cellaring is highly 

recommended. 

http://www.peterfalkewines.com Price: € 8.00 

Peter Falke Wines +27 21 881 3677 

GOEDE HOOP 90/100 

D CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2015: Dark ruby 

brick. Tea-leaf and mint on the developed nose. 

Leathery spice on the matured palate with sour 

cherry and cranberry on the aftertaste. Leather 

and forest floor on the smooth finish. A fine 

wine. Drink through 2027. 

Price: € 12.50 

Goede Hoop Wine Estate +27 81 283 1618 

SARAH’S CREEK WINES 90/100 

D CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2021: Ruby 

garnet. Smoky nose with violets and dark 

berry fruit. Grippy tannins and tomato-leaf on 

the palate with a hint of blackberry and cigar. 

Structured and complex. Drink through 2028. 

http://www.sarahscreek.co.za Price: € 4.00 

Sarah’s Creek Wines +27 21 300 1731 

FINLAYSON REVEALS THE INTRICATE TAPESTRY OF HOW THE STELLENBOSCH WARDS CONTRIBUTE TO CRAFTING A HALLMARK CABERNET SAUVIGNON. 

AUTUMN 2023 GILBERT & GAILLARD – THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 

121

SOUTH AFRICA - BREEDEKLOOF 


WATERFORD ESTATE 90/100 

CR D CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2018: Ruby 

garnet with brick red rim. Subdued nose with 

dried fruit and red cherry. Developed palate with 

spice and sour cherry on the grippy aftertaste. 

Rhubarb tartness follows on the sour cherry 

finish. Drink through 2026. 

http://www.waterfordestate.co.za Price: € 36.00 

Waterford Estate +27 21 880 5300 

BLUE MOOSE 88/100 

D CABERNET SAUVIGNON SHIRAZ 2021 

http://www.grapegrinder.com Price: € 8.50 

The Grape Grinder +27 218 633 943 

PIERRE DUMONT 87/100 

D CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2021 

http://www.dutoitskloof.co.za Price: € 11.00 

Du Toitskloof Wines +27 23 349 1601 

CARLSHEIM 86/100 

D RED BLEND 2022 

Price: € 5.50 

Koelenhof Winery + 27 218 652 020 

PIERRE DUMONT 85/100 

D SEVEN CENTURIES 2022 

http://www.dutoitskloof.co.za Price: € 11.00 

Du Toitskloof Wines +27 23 349 1601 

WESTERN CAPE - BREEDE 

RIVER VALLEY 

BREEDEKLOOF 

SEVEN OAKS 91/100 

D NIL NISI OPTIMUM 1 : Deep ruby with 

brick red rim. Red cherry and tea leaf on the rich 

nose. Palate is complex and layered with pencil 

shavings, cigar and mulberry on the lengthy 

aftertaste. Well structured and integrated. 

Drink through 2028. 

Price: € 7.50 

Seven Oaks +27 836 390 405 

MOUNTAIN RIDGE 81/100 


http://www.mountainridge.co.za Price: € 4.50 

Mountain Ridge +27 230 041 492 

ROBERTSON - BONNIEVALE 

GABRIEL & GYSBERT 92/100 

D KWARTSKOP 2022: Ruby garnet with 

brick red rime. Tea-leaf and eucalyptus on the 

herbaceous nose. Sour cherry, blackberry and 

dried prunes on the matured palate. Fine and 

grainy tannins on the rich and layered aftertaste. 


https://www.gabrielgysbert.com Price: € 12.50 

Gabriel & Gysbert Wines +27 762 569 445 

LOZÄRN 91/100 

CR D KAY’S LEGACY 2020: Ruby with brick 

red rim. Spice and leather on the red berry nose. 

Developed palate with eucalyptus and tea-leaf 

following from the nose. Layered and complex 

on the rich aftertaste. Drink through 2027. 

Price: € 2.50 

Lozärn Wines +27 82 576 8093 

WORCESTER 

BRANDVLEI WYNKELDER 87/100 

D HALFTIEN 2022 

https://www.bcwines.co.za/ Price: € 1.10 

Brandvlei Wines +27 23 340 4215 

WESTERN CAPE - COASTAL 

REGION 

CAPE TOWN - PHILADELPHIA 

CAPAIA 92/100 

D ONE 2020: Deep garnet. Toasty nose with 

dark fruit and leather. Palate is dry and layered 

with dried prune and plum on the aftertaste. 

Grainy tannins on the dry and rich finish. 

Complex and finessed. Drink through 2028. 

Price: € 8.50 

Capaia Wine Estate +27 219 721 081 

COASTAL REGION 

OU KALANT 88/100 


http://www.manwines.com Price: € 9.00 

Man Vintners (Pty) Ltd +27 218 617 759 

DRIEBERGEN 87/100 


http://www.cronierwines.com Price: € 5.50 

Cronier Wines +27 218 722 643 

DARLING 

SIGNATURE RANGE 86/100 

D INKSPOT 2022 

http://www.cloof.co.za Price: € 6.00 

Cloof Wine Estate +27 22 492 2839 

SIMONSBERG-STELLENBOSCH 

DEUX FRERES 96/100 

CR D TRIBUTE 2020: Very dark ruby. Tealeaf 

and eucalyptus on the rich nose. Palate is 

refined and layered with hints of blackberry, 

cassis and dried prune on the aftertaste. A well 

structured wine with a grainy tannin on the 

finish. A big wine. Drink through 2030. 

https://www.dfwines.co.za Price: € 43.00 

Deux Frères Wines +27 21 889 9865 

DEUX FRERES 95/100 

CR D CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2020: Very 

dark ruby. Blackberry jam and dried prunes on 

the rich nose. Palate is refined and complex with 

layers of leather, spice and cigar. Dry and grainy 

on the lengthy aftertaste. Made to age. Drink 

through 2030. 

https://www.dfwines.co.za Price: € 40.00 

Deux Frères Wines +27 21 889 9865 

GLENELLY 95/100 

CR D LADY MAY 2017: Dark ruby, attractive 

core depth and brightness. Dark cassis fruit 

coated by oak spice and touch of toasted oak. 

Carries well to palate. A broad mid structure 

carries from start to finish. Expressive wine 

without being aggressive. Further cellaring 

highly recommended. 

http://www.glenellyestate.com Price: 4000 

Glenelly +27 21 809 6440 

SIMONSIG 94/100 

D THE GARLAND 2018: Bright ruby, good 

core depth, youthful appearance. Sense of purity 

and place. Primary and secondary nuances of 

freshness and spice. Tannins elegant and already 

showing timeous integration. Good length. 

Ageing potential of 10+years. 

http://www.simonsig.co.za Price: € 166.50 

Simonsig Estate Wine +27 21 8884900 

QUOIN ROCK 93/100 

D SIMONSBERG BLEND 2020: Dark garnet. 

Ripe prunes and plum on the dark berry nose. 

Juicy and jammy on the sour cherry palate with 

a hint of leathery spice on the dry and lengthy 

finish. Rich and complex. Drink through 2030. 

http://www.quoinrock.com Price: € 15.40 

Quoin Rock +27 21 888 4740 

THELEMA 93/100 

D CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2020: Dark 

ruby with brick red rim. Eucalyptus and tealeaf 

on the dark berry nose. Palate is refined 

and complex with dark fruit and cassis on the 

layered and integrated palate. Full and rich on 

the leathery aftertaste. Drink through 2028. 

http://www.thelema.co.za Price: € 34.00 

Thelema Mountain Vineyards +27 21 885 1924 

122 AUTUMN 2023 GILBERT & GAILLARD – THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

SOUTH AFRICA - STELLENBOSCH 


KANONKOP 92/100 

D ESTATE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2019: 

Deep ruby with brick red rim. Buchu, plum and 

ripe prunes on the matured palate. Palate is rich 

and structured with a sour cherry note on the 

fine and grainy aftertaste. Drink through 2028. 

http://www.kanonkop.co.za Price: € 30.00 

Kanonkop Wine Estate +27 21 8844 656 

QUOIN ROCK 91/100 

D SIMONSBERG BLEND 2019: Dark ruby 

brick. Developed nose with sweet spice. Leather 

and dark berry fruit on the full palate with a 

pithy cranberry note on the red apple aftertaste. 

Layered and complex. Drink through 2028. 

http://www.quoinrock.com Price: € 15.30 

Quoin Rock +27 21 888 4740 

STELLENBOSCH 

DE TRAFFORD 95/100 

D CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2019: Dark ruby 

brick. Matured nose with hints of leather and 

spice. Grippy palate with dried fruit and cassis. 

Well structured and layered on the lengthy and 

full aftertaste. Will age well. Drink through 

2028. 

Price: € 22.50 

De Trafford +27 21 880 1611 

ERNIE ELS 95/100 

CR D CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2018: Very 

dark ruby. Cassis and mulberry on the dark fruit 

nose. Cigarbox and leather on the palate with 

dark fruit following from the nose. Grippy on the 

finish with a rhubarb tartness on the aftertaste. 

Made to age. Drink through 2030. 

http://www.ernieelswines.com Price: € 12.50 

Ernie Els Wines +27 21 881 3588 

TOKARA RESERVE 95/100 


ruby. Chocolate and cassis on the smoky nose. 

Red cherry and mocha follows on the dark berry 

palate with a well rounded acidity and integrated 

tannin. Full and layered on the aftertaste. Drink 

through 2030. 

http://www.tokara.com Price: € 38.50 

Tokara +27 21 808 5913 

21 GABLES 94/100 

D CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2019: Deep ruby. 

Tomato-leaf and blackberry nose. Palate is rich 

and full with a grippy tannin and leathery spice 

on the well structured and lengthy aftertaste. 

A fine example that will age well. Complex and 

layered. Drink through 2030. 

http://www.spier.co.za Price: € 17.50 

Spier Wines +27 21 881 8400 

ALTO WINE ESTATES IS LOCATED IN A PICTURE-POSTCARD SETTING, ON THE SLOPES OF THE 

HELDERBERG. 

ASARA 94/100 

D THE BELL TOWER 2019: Deep ruby. 

Mulberry and blackberry and cassis on the rich 

nose. Tea leaf and cigar on the savoury and rich 

palate with grippy tannins on the structured and 

full bodied aftertaste. Made to age. Excellent. 

Cellar for 10 years or more. 

http://www.asara.co.za Price: € 20.00 

Asara Wine Estate +27 21 888 8000 

FAMILY RESERVE 94/100 

D CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2019: Dark plum 

red, with core depth. Attractive sense of purity 

and equality on introduction to the wine. Dark 

chocolate coated cherries, also carries to palate. 

Ripe, but finely knitted tannins, almost graphite 

powder. High density mid structure and ends on 

a full bodied length. Aging potential excellent. 

http://www.kleinezalze.co.za Price: € 45.00 

Kleine Zalze +27 21 880 0717 

KAAPZICHT 94/100 

D SKEMERLIG CABERNET SAUVIGNON 

2020: Deep ruby. Prunes and plum on the dark 

fruit nose. Palate is developed, but rich and 

complex. Dried dark fruit follows from the nose 

with licorice and spice on the grippy aftertaste. 

Made to age. Drink through 2030. 

http://www.kaapzicht.co.za Price: € 30.00 

Kaapzicht +27 21 906 1620 

ALTO 93/100 


garnet with brick red rim. Dried prune and plum 

on the rich nose. Sour cherry and strawberry on 

the well integrated, but grippy palate. Smooth 

and layered on the refined aftertaste. Drink 

through 2027. 

http://www.alto.co.za Price: € 25.70 

Alto Wine Estate +27 21 881 3884 

CAVALLI 93/100 


brick. Subdued nose with red cherry and tealeaf. 

Sour cherry and cassis on the palate with 

a red cherry and ripe berry note on the lengthy 

finish. Layered and complex on the aftertaste. 


http://www.cavallistud.com/ Price: € 25.00 

Cavalli Estate +27 218 553 218 

DAVID FINLAYSON 93/100 

D CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2021: Dark ruby. 

Dark fruit nose with cassis and mulberry. Tealeaf 

and red cherry on the grippy palate. Wellintegrated 

oak with a cigar-box spice on the sour 

cherry aftertaste. Layered and complex. Drink 

through 2030. 

http://www.edgebaston.co.za Price: € 10.00 

Edgebaston Vineyards +27 21 889 9572 


123

SOUTH AFRICA - STELLENBOSCH 


WATERFORD ESTATE 93/100 

CR D CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2015: Brick 

red. Developed nose with dried fruits and 

leather. Spice and red cherry follows on the 

well integrated palate with a black forrest cake 

note on the aftertaste. A fine wine from a fine 

vintage. Drink through 2027. 

http://www.waterfordestate.co.za Price: € 44.50 

Waterford Estate +27 21 880 5300 

CAVALLI 92/100 

D WARLORD 2020: Dark garnet. Rich nose 

with hints of cassis and plum. Grippy on the 

smoky palate with a touch of leather on the dark 

fruit and dark chocolate aftertaste. A big wine 

that will age well. Drink through 2030. 

http://www.cavallistud.com/ Price: € 28.50 

Cavalli Estate +27 218 553 218 

KEERMONT 92/100 


ruby. Blackberry fruit and plum on the cigar 

box nose. Eucalyptus and dark berry fruit 

follows on the palate with a refined tannin and 

well integrated acidity. Great example. Drink 

through 2030. 

http://www.keermont.co.za Price: € 17.00 

Keermont +27 218 800 397 

STELLENBOSCH HILLS 92/100 


brick. Mature nose with raisins and prunes. 

Grippy palate with red cherry and pencil 

shavings. Fine and grainy tannins on the red 

cherry aftertaste with a layered and complex 

finish. Well structured. Drink through 2028. 

http://www.stellenbosch-hills.co.za Price: € 5.60 

Stellenbosch Hills +27 21 881 3828 

ESTATE VINEYARDS 90/100 

CR D CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2021: Deep 

ruby. Blackberry and spice on the tea-leaf nose. 

Full and rich on the red cherry palate with finely 

integrated tannins on the rhubarb aftertaste. 

Balanced and refined. Drink through 2028. 

http://www.rustenvrede.com Price: € 40.00 

Rust en Vrede Wine Estate +27 218 813 881 

KOELENBOSCH 90/100 

D NINETEENFORTYONE 2021: Ruby garnet. 

Tea leaf and red cherry on the nose with hints 

of leather. Medley of deep red and ripe purple 

berries, supported by oak spice. Notes of fruit 

pastels and oak tannins compliment each 

other Layered and lengthy on the finish. Drink 

through 2028. 

Price: € 6.00 

Koelenhof Winery + 27 218 652 020 

STRYDOM ARTISAN WINES 90/100 

D REX CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2020: Ruby 

red with medium concentration. Dark fruit, 

equality of ripeness, integrated oak and fruit. 

Tannin evolution strikes the tongue in the right 

spots, present but not aggressive. Will keep for 

10 years. 

Price: € 305.00 

Strydom Vineyards +27 822 903 699 

HARTENBERG 89/100 


http://www.hartenbergestate.com Price: € 15.00 

Hartenberg Estate +27 21 865 2541 

SIMONSIG 89/100 

D LABYRINTH CABERNET SAUVIGNON 

2020 

http://www.simonsig.co.za Price: € 19.50 

Simonsig Estate Wine +27 218 884 900 

STRYDOM ARTISAN WINES 89/100 

D REX CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2018 

Price: € 305.00 

Strydom Vineyards +27 822 903 699 

MOOIPLAAS 87/100 


Price: € 195.00 

Mooiplaas Wine Estate +27 27 482 2827 

STELLENBOSCH RESERVE 87/100 

CR D CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2021 

http://www.rustenvrede.com Price: € 18.00 

Rust en Vrede Wine Estate +27 218 813 881 

HOPE 85/100 


Price: € 6.90 

Cape Vinea +27 82 906 6047 

STELLENBOSCH - 

JONKERSHOEK VALLEY 

STARK-CONDÉ 93/100 

D OUDE NEKTAR CABERNET SAUVIGNON 

2019: Dark ruby, with youthful appearance. 

Upfront freshness of black current, enhanced by 

oak spice and cinnamon. Elegantly crafted with 

sour cherry and spearmint towards the end. 

Long lingering from the palate to the aftertaste. 

Ageing potential 10-years. 

http://www.stark-conde.co.za Price: € 50.00 

Stark-Condé Wines +27 21 861 7703 

STARK CONDÉ 92/100 

D THREE PINES 2019: Dark Ruby Red. Black 

currant and cassis, complimented by sandal 

wood oak spice nuances. Fruit and oak carry well 

to synchronise with tannins, offering a layered 

wine with richness and length. Drink in 6-8 

years. 

http://www.stark-conde.co.za Price: € 30.00 

Stark-Condé Wines +27 21 861 7703 

WATERFORD IN ITS OCHRE AND GREEN SETTING WITH THE HELDERBERG IN THE BACKDROP. 


PORTUGAL - VINHO VERDE D.O.C. 



What is it about Portuguese wines that 

consumers find so appealing? There 

are multiple answers to this, including 

attractive pricing, native grapes, 

extensive variety and new flavours. 

Basically, it is the appeal of something 

new. Judge for yourself – here is our 

selection of Alentejo, Setúbal and Vinho 

Verde, all of them selling for under 10 

euros! 

ALENTEJO 

ALENTEJO V.R. 

SMART DOG 88/100 

D PINGO’S EDITION 2021 

http://www.jportugalramos.com Price: € 9.99 

J. Portugal Ramos Vinhos, S.A. +351 268 339 910 

SMART DOG 87/100 

D 2022 

http://www.jportugalramos.com Price: € 2.50 

J. Portugal Ramos Vinhos, S.A. +351 268 339 910 

BAIRRADA 

BAIRRADA D.O.C. 

ADEGA DE CANTANHEDE 90/100 

D MARQUES DE MARIALVA COLHEITA 

SELECIONADA 2020: Full colour with ruby and 

tawny tints. Heady nose, spicy, minty and woody 

with juicy fruit (blackberries, redcurrants) and 

graphite. Explosive palate marked by its oakageing 

as much as its alluring fruit, with wellsculpted 

tannin. Modern, distinguished. 

http://www.cantanhede.com Price: € 2.50 

Adega de Cantanhede +351 231 419 540 


D MARQUES DE MARIALVA 2019 




D MAEQUES DE MARIALVA 2021 



THE GRAPES ARE HARVESTED BY HAND AT ADEGA DE CANTANHEDE, A PIONEERING COMPANY 


D MARQUES DE MARIALVA 2021 



BEIRA ATLANTICO I.G.P. 


D CHAO DO CONDE RESERVA 2021 



PENINSULA DE SETUBAL 

PENINSULA DE SETUBAL V.R. 

PERIQUITA 90/100 

CR D RESERVA 2021: Rich garnet-red colour. 

Promising nose of red fruit, hay, floral notes, 

liquorice and spices. Ample, greedy attack, with 

a touch of sweetness. Robust on the palate, with 

generous aromas. A very promising wine to 

cellar for a while before enjoying it. 

http://www.jmf.pt Price: € 9.90 

José Maria da Fonseca Vinhos +351 212 197 500 


CR D 2022 




CR D RESERVA 2022 



VINHO VERDE 

VINHO VERDE D.O.C. 

TWIN VINES 90/100 

CR D 

2022: Light golden yellow colour. 

Inviting nose characterised by hydrocarbon 

mineral scents, with receding citrus notes. The 

palate is invigorating and exquisitely light, 

concentrating on intense, crisp fruit. A truly 

expressive wine. Worth discovering. 



AVELEDA 88/100 

D 2022 

https://www.aveleda.com/en Price: € 4.99 

Aveleda +351 255 718 200 

BOLHAS DOS LOBOS 88/100 

CR D VEGAN 2022 

https://www.adegaguimaraes.pt/ Price: € 5.00 

Adega Cooperativa de Guimarães +351 919 425 807 

ADEGA GUIMARÃES 87/100 

D 2021 

https://www.adegaguimaraes.pt/ Price: € 2.20 

Adega Cooperativa de Guimarães +351 919 425 807 

CASAL GARCIA 86/100 

D 

SITUATED NEAR COIMBRA. 

https://www.aveleda.com/en Price: € 4.19 

Aveleda +351 255 718 200 


125

SOUTH WEST - BERGERAC 


SOUTH WEST 

The region is so extensive and 

fragmented with myriad appellations 

that we have selected just four of them 

for you – Bergerac, Fronton, Gaillac 

and Jurançon. They come as reds, rosés, 

dry and sweet whites and are a perfect 

illustration of the variety offered by this 

inimitable wine region and its grape 

varieties with such quaint names! 

SOUTH WEST 

BERGERAC 

LE PLAISIR DES TEMPLIERS 89/100 

D VINTAGE 2021 

https://www.chateaulaforet-bergerac.com/ Price: € 4.50 

Vignobles Borie +33 5 53 58 43 02 

CHÂTEAU LESTEVENIE 88/100 


https://chateaulestevenie.com/ Price: € 9.95 

Château Lestevénie +33 7 63 03 11 91 

LE PLAISIR DES TEMPLIERS 88/100 


https://www.chateaulaforet-bergerac.com/ Price: € 4.50 

Vignobles Borie +33 5 53 58 43 02 

CHÂTEAU POULVÈRE 87/100 

CONV D SUR LE FRUIT 2020 

http://www.poulvere.com Price: € 7.00 

Château Poulvère +33 5 53 58 30 25 

CHÂTEAU POULVÈRE 87/100 

CONV D SUR LE FRUIT 2022 

http://www.poulvere.com Price: € 8.00 

Château Poulvère +33 5 53 58 30 25 


CONV D VINTAGE 2021 







FRONTON 

LA FORÊT ROYALE 92/100 

D VINTAGE 2019: Deep garnet with bricking. 

Complex nose delivering fine spices, toast, a 

floral accent, liquorice and a host of fruits. The 

palate is starting to roll out generous flavours 

with intensity against a velvety, tense backdrop 

where harmony prevails. 

http://www.chateaubellevuelaforet.com Price: € 8.50 

Château Bellevue La Forêt +33 5 34 27 91 91 

LA FORÊT ROYALE 91/100 

D VINTAGE 2020: Bright garnet starting 

to mature. Racy nose combining red fruits, 

spices, violet and a whiff of toast. Harmonious, 

perfumed, saline palate framed by silky tannins. 

Finesse, beautiful nascent depth and a persistent 

finish. Superb. 



CHÂTEAU BAUDARE 90/100 

D LA RÉSERVE 2020: Concentrated red with 

ruby-brown tints. Distinctive nose offering up 

forest floor aromas revolving around a backbone 

of ripe red and black fruits. The palate delivers 

layered, ample, generous aromatics. Moderate 

tannins offer a lovely accompaniment to the 

finish. Beautiful. 

http://www.chateaubaudare.com Price: € 6.00 

Château Baudare +33 5 63 30 51 33 


HVE D VIEILLES VIGNES 2020: 

Concentrated red with dark ruby reflections. 

Floral notes of peony and wilted roses adorn the 

nose along with ripe plums and blackcurrant. 

The palate is sleek, free-flowing and marked 

by saline flavours and the softness of the fruit. 

Languorous tannins. A very elegant Fronton. 




HVE D LA RÉSERVE 2019: Dark colour with 

young purple-blue tints. Profound nose of black 

fruits and spices. Great attack on the palate with 

lots of weight, freshness and expression. The 

finish adds a pleasant spicy edge. A wine with 

genuine appeal. 




HVE D LES 3 TERROIRS 2019: Deeply 

coloured with ruby-brown highlights. A mix of 

ripe fruits, stone fruits and strong spices on the 

nose. Generous palate bolstered by racy, wellestablished 

tannins. Sleek finish with a sappy, 

chewy feel. A Fronton with well-rooted siteexpressiveness. 

Shows potential. 



CHÂTEAU BELLEVUE LA FORÊT 90/100 

D ORIGINEL 2022: Light pink with 

bluish highlights. Charming nose combining 

strawberries, cherries, violets and spice notes. A 

silky attack opens up to a concentrated, smooth, 

mouth-filling palate. Intense, pure expression. 

Everything shows laser-like precision in this 

pretty rosé for elaborate dishes. 



GAILLAC 

LES SECRETS DU CHÂTEAU PALVIÉ 91/100 

TV D VINTAGE 2018: Deep red with the first 

signs of maturing. Ripe red and black fruits on 

the nose coupled with an intense spicy edge. On 

the palate, the same aromas entwine pleasantly 

with tannins supporting the whole. Keep for 

another two years. 

http://www.croixdesmarchands.com Price: € 16.00 

Domaine La Croix des Marchands +33 5 63 57 19 71 

CHÂTEAU PALVIÉ 90/100 

TV D VINTAGE 2020: Deep crimson tinged 

with dark purple. Seductive nose exuding 

blackberries, redcurrants, smoke and a dash 

of spice. A silky attack is the prelude to a 

concentrated palate framed by velvety tannins. 

Beautiful youthful flavours showing delicious 

intensity. This is a stellar signature wine, 

congratulations. 



CHÂTEAU PALVIÉ 90/100 

TV D VINTAGE 2021: Brilliant, mediumdeep 

yellow. Elegant nose delivering a fusion 

of white fruit notes, noble wood essence and 

acacia blossom. The palate is styled with subtle 

oaky accents, invigorating tension and very 

successful balance. 



LES GRAVETTES 90/100 

ORG D INSTANT 2022: Brilliant pale gold. 

Very pure, focused nose with suggestions of 

grape and ripe pear. The palate displays great 

delicacy with chiselled aromas enhanced by 

beautiful tension. A precise wine showing 

undeniable craftsmanship. 

http://www chateau-de-terride.com Price: € 12.00 

Château de Terride +33 5 63 33 26 63 


SOUTH WEST - JURANÇON SEC 


DOMAINE NIGRI 90/100 

ORG D PAS DE DEUX 2018: Bright yellowgold. 

Very pure, candied nose showing tones of 

quince and rhubarb. A lovely liqueur-like feel 

on the palate couples with welcome freshness. 

Persistent finish driven by the same candied 

fruit tones. Really appetising. 

https://www.jurancon-domainenigri.com/ Price: 11.40 

Domaine Nigri +33 5 59 21 42 01 


ORG Fluffy white wine D PAS DE DEUX 2019: 

Brilliant deep yellow. Beautiful intense, fresh 

nose showing melon, mirabelle plum and white 

fruit nuances. The palate is an absolute treat. It 

is juicy, smooth and mouth-filling, flowing into 

a lively finish. 

https://www.jurancon-domainenigri.com/ Price: € 12.10 

Domaine Nigri +33 5 59 21 42 01 

JURANÇON SEC 

THE CHARM OF CHATEAU TERRIDE, A FORMER HUNTING LODGE BUILT NEAR GAILLAC IN 1652. 

SECRET DE LABASTIDE 89/100 


http://www.cave-labastide.com Price: € 12.00 

Cave de Labastide de Lévis +33 5 63 53 73 53 

SECRET DE LABASTIDE 88/100 




CHÂTEAU ISSALY 87/100 









ORG D VINTAGE 2022 



JURANÇON 


ORG D TOUTE UNE HISTOIRE 2019: 

Vibrant yellow-gold. Exquisite nose blending 

pineapple, mango, candied fruits, honey and 

mineral undertones. A silky attack is the prelude 

to a fleshy, concentrated palate with a pure, 

profound, liqueur-like feel. Saline and spicy 

mid-palate and sumptuous flavours in this 

benchmark wine. 


Domaine Nigri +33 5 59 21 42 01 


CONV Fluffy white wine D TOUTE UNE 

HISTOIRE 2020: Bright, deep yellow. Elegant, 

fresh nose delivering aromas of yellow fruits, 

tropical notes and candied citrus. The palate is 

very rich with very pure juiciness that lingers on 

and on, driven by citrus fruits and sweet spices. 

Great potential. 


Domaine Nigri +33 5 59 21 42 01 


ORG D PIERRE DE LUNE 2020: Bright 

yellow-gold with some traces of green. Racy nose 

combining citrus, tropical fruits and a minerally 

trace. Harmonious, richly styled, ample palate 

unfurling a generous range of flavours. Spicy 

mid-palate with pineapple and mango. A 

delightful wine for food. 


Domaine Nigri +33 5 59 21 42 01 


ORG D CONFLUENCE 2021: Yellow-gold. 

On the nose, menthol notes, sweet spices, 

chamomile, apple and wild flowers. The palate 

is fleshy and very seductive, with delicate, ripe, 

energetic fruitiness and a smooth finish. A clear, 

delicious Jurançon for top quality fish. 


Domaine Nigri +33 5 59 21 42 01 


ORG D PIERRE DE LUNE 2021: Bright 

yellow-gold. On the nose, passion fruit, apricot, 

almond and orange zest notes. The palate is 

well-established and nicely chewy, structured 

and fresh with a honeyed finish. Very restrained 

richness and great elegance. 


Domaine Nigri +33 5 59 21 42 01 


ORG D CONFLUENCE 2022 


Domaine Nigri +33 5 59 21 42 01 


127

RHONE VALLEY - BEAUMES DE VENISE 


RHONE VALLEY 

Beaumes-de-Venise, Cairanne, 

Gigondas, Rasteau and Vinsobres – 

are you familiar with these 5 southern 

appellations? It’s time to explore them 

so here is a selection of robust, aromatic 

and companionable reds with much 

more affordable price tags than the 

Rhone’s flagship appellations 

RHONE VALLEY 

BEAUMES DE VENISE 

DOMAINE SAINT AMANT 91/100 

CONV D GRANGENEUVE 2020: Dark 

ruby-red tinged with crimson. Black fruits are 

accompanied by toast and pepper touches on the 

nose. The palate is lively yet silky to start with 

sun-kissed flavours. The full freshness of the 

Mistral wind is delivered on the finish in this 

distinctively Rhone-style wine. 

http://www.domainesaintamant.com Price: € 15.50 

Domaine Saint Amant +33 4 90 62 99 25 

GIGONDAS LA CAVE 91/100 

CR D TERRISSIMO 2020: Beautiful ruby 

with faint mature highlights. Very pleasant, 

soft nose with floral and mineral overtones. 

Gorgeous weight on the palate with ripe, 

polished tannins. Fullness on the finish and also 

substantial aromatic persistence. 

http://www.cave-gigondas.fr Price: € 10.80 

Gigondas La Cave +33 4 90 65 86 27 

CAIRANNE 

DOMAINE LUCIEN TRAMIER 90/100 

CONV D VINTAGE 2022: Dark ruby-red 

with dark purple reflections. Expressive nose 

delivering a blend of black fruits, pepper and 

cacao touches. Clean, robust palate with aromas 

of ripe fruits. An assertively Mediterranean style 

in a sun-kissed vintage. Serve with grills. 

http://www.lucientramier.fr Price: € 10.00 

Domaine Lucien Tramier +33 9 66 83 00 89 

DOMAINE LUCIEN TRAMIER 90/100 

CONV D VINTAGE 2021: Vibrant red tinged 

with ruby. Typical nose accented by stone fruits, 

strong spices, aromatic plants and smoke. 

The palate combines power, a fleshy feel and 

welcome sweetness. The tannins are proud and 

the finish is extended. 

THE GRAPE HARVEST AT DOMAINE SAINT-AMANT, IN SUZETTE, NEAR CARPENTRAS. 

http://www.lucientramier.fr Price: € 10.00 

Domaine Lucien Tramier +33 9 66 83 00 89 

GIGONDAS 

DOMAINE DE CAROBELLE 92/100 

ORG D VINTAGE 2021: Bright garnet 

starting to mature. Racy nose combining sweet 

spices, stone fruits, liquorice and garrigue 

notes. Velvety, full-bodied, rich palate supported 

by well-judged freshness, elegant tannins and a 

saline edge. Still young with great potential. 




CR D L’INTENSE 2019: Deep garnet with 

amber traces. Racy nose mingling sweet spices, 

stone fruits, tobacco and dried herbs with 

subtle exotic wood. The palate is silky smooth 

with a great Mediterranean aromatic line-up 

in the process of opening up. Moderate, wellintegrated 

firmness in this exemplary wine. 




CR D SIGNATURE 2020: Clear garnetred 

with amber highlights. Enticing nose 

blending stone fruits, fine spices, garrigue 

and a touch of mocha. Full-bodied, ample, 

structured palate which coats the tastebuds 

with its Mediterranean flavours. A harmonious, 

distinctive and successful wine. 



LE GRAND MONTMIRAIL 90/100 

D LE COTEAU DE MON PÈRE 2021: Dense 

colour tinged with ruby. Nose of garrigue, stone 

fruits and strong spices. Structured palate 

with a chewiness that combines freshness and 

a sappy feel with a very energetic aromatic 

core. Concentrated tannins. A classic, fuss-free 

Gigondas. 

http://www.vigneoblescheron.fr Price: € 13.00 

Cave Pascal +33 4 90 65 85 91 

LE GRAND MONTMIRAIL 90/100 

D LE COTEAU DE MON RÊVE 2020: 

Beautiful deep, bright red. Generous nose of 

stone fruits lifted by a touch of venison. Balanced 

at point of entry followed by a more opulent 

mid-palate and finish that stay harmonious. A 

distinctive Gigondas for game. 


Cave Pascal +33 4 90 65 85 91 


RHONE VALLEY - VINSOBRES 


RASTEAU 

VILLA SAFRANIER 90/100 

D VINTAGE 2020: Deep red with dark ruby 

highlights. Suggestions of garrigue, pepper, 

olive and sun-drenched black fruit. The palate 

delivers great aromatic volume with an extensive 

array of hallmark Mediterranean flavours. Silky 

tannins. This is an elegant wine. 

https://www.villa-safranier.com/ Price: € 14.00 

Clos Safranier +33 6 25 07 34 82 

DOMAINE DE LA PIÉGONNE 89/100 

ORG D VINTAGE 2020 

https://www.lumianbonnefoy.com/ 

Domaine de Lumian +33 4 90 35 09 70 

VILLA SAFRANIER 88/100 

CR D VINTAGE 2021 

https://www.villa-safranier.com/ Price: € 14.00 

Clos Safranier +33 6 25 07 34 82 

VACQUEYRAS 

LA GRAND COMTADINE 90/100 

D PÉCHÉ MIGNON 2020: Deeply coloured. 

Nose of garrigue, wild plants and stone fruits 

with a whiff of smoke. The palate is dense and 

powerful with very distinctive Mediterranean 

flavours. Freshness reins in the tannins. Works 

best with hearty foods. 


Cave Pascal +33 4 90 65 85 91 

VINSOBRES 

DOMAINE LE MIRABEAU 90/100 

ORG D VINTAGE 2016: Intense garnet with 

some bricking. Rich nose combining morello 

cherry, redcurrant, liquorice and spice with oaky 

undertones. Powerful, structured, heady palate 

delivering noble Mediterranean aromatics. An 

expressive wine that honours tradition. 

https://domainelemirabeau.fr/ Price: € 14.00 

Domaine Le Mirabeau +33 6 03 26 97 96 

DOMAINE LE MIRABEAU 90/100 

ORG D VINTAGE 2017: Garnet-red with 

bricking. Gorgeous open nose of red and black 

fruits with touches of forest floor and humus. 

Powerful, velvety palate marked by stewed fruit 

tones. Great freshness to finish. Serve with 

grills. 

https://domainelemirabeau.fr/ Price: € 15.00 

Domaine Le Mirabeau +33 6 03 26 97 96 

DOMAINE ST VINCENT 90/100 

HVE D VINTAGE 2021: Deep red with ruby 

reflections. Nose of juicy red fruits with garrigue 

and spice undertones. The palate successfully 

combines clean tannins and mature fruit whilst 

preserving freshness and breed. An extremely 

noble wine. 

http://www.domaine-saint-vincent.com Price: € 9.90 

Domaine Saint Vincent +33 4 75 27 61 10 

DOMAINE ST VINCENT 88/100 

HVE D VINTAGE 2022 

http://www.domaine-saint-vincent.com Price: € 9.90 

Domaine Saint Vincent +33 4 75 27 61 10 

THE GIGONDAS WINERY CRAFTS BEAUTIFUL WINES, LIKE THE 2021 DOMAINE DE CAROBELLE WHICH OUR PANEL RATED 92/100. 


129

ITALY - ALL REGIONS 


ITALY 

No-low wines are on-trend and Italy 

is no exception to the rule. From 

sparkling wines and flavoured drinks 

to low-alcohol wines, Italian producers 

have been quick to embrace diversity 

and respond to increased demand from 

newbies. 

ITALY (ALL REGIONS) 

SL 90/100 

D ZERO SPRITZ ORANGE : Bright, luminous 

orange. Clean and engaging nose combining 

aromatic herbs and gentian. On the palate, the 

same range of flavours emerges, surprisingly, 

combined with a slight bitterness on the finish 

that makes it all the more convincing. A real 

success. 

http://www.cantiesgarzi.com Price: € 2.70 

Cantine Sgarzi Luigi +39 051 940 962 

TOSELLI 90/100 

D BOLLICINE SPUMANTI : Vibrant, pale yellow 

colour. Fresh nose combining muscatel, lychee 

and jasmine. On the palate, light tenderness, 

clean fragrances and a real feeling of pleasure. 

A rather indulgent wine, seductive in its 

simplicity. 

http://www.bosca.it Price: € 7.00 

BOSCA +39 0141 96 7711 

SL 88/100 

D ZERO % ZERO 



ZERO 88/100 

D 

http://www.spinato.it Price: € 9.50 

Anna Spinato Azienda Vinicola +39 0422 857 927 

FRANC LIZÊR 87/100 

D ROSÉ 

Price: € 13.00 

Lea Winery +39 043 418 36 532 

ROSSINI COCKTAIL 87/100 

D 

http://www.canellaspa.it Price: € 6.00 

Casa Vinicola Canella +39 042 152 446 

SL 87/100 

D 



SL 87/100 

D 



ZERO BLUSH 87/100 

D 

http://www.spinato.it Price: € 9.70 

Anna Spinato Azienda Vinicola +39 0422 857 927 

BELLINI COCKTAIL 86/100 

D 



FRANC LIZÊR 86/100 

D BLANC DE BLANCS 

Price: € 13.00 

Lea Winery +39 043 418 36 532 

MIMOSA COCKTAIL 86/100 

D 



PUCCINI COCKTAIL 86/100 

D 



TOSELLI 86/100 

D BOLLICINE SPUMANTI 

http://www.bosca.it Price: € 7.00 

BOSCA +39 0141 96 7711 

CAVIRO 85/100 

D ROSSO REALE BLUEBERRY 

http://www.caviro.com Price: € 12.00 

Caviro +39 054 662 91 11 

ARIONE AND ITS SPECTACULAR VINEYARD SETTING AMIDST THE ROLLING HILLS OF PIEDMONT. 


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