APJ Vol 56 2023

COSMETIC CHEMISTRY
SODIUM HYALURONATE
vs
HYALURONIC ACID
– A comparative review on how they differ
By Tina Viney
In today’s sophisticated skincare market, your clients are enticed
to purchase skincare from numerous sources – pharmacies,
department stores, as well as the endless alure of social media
and online promotions. So how do you convience them that your
product recommendations are superior in terms of value and
performance? The simpliest and easiest way is by comparing the
ingredients and where they sit on the ingredient listing, as well as
an understanding of their chemistry and the delivery system of
the forumula.
Furthermore, each ingredient can be represented with a
variety of names, so understading ingredient terminalogy is also
important as a slightly different name could mean a different
chemical structure. One such ingredient is Hyaluronic Acid versus
Sodium Hyaluroniate. Let’s review how they differ, their benefits
and skincare use.
As we know Hyauronic acid is a natural component found in the
body, and especially in the skin and connective tissues. It plays a
critical role in attracting and maintaining the skin’s moisture and as
such, can be found in a wide range of skin care products.
Sodium hyaluronate on the other hand, is a derivative of
hyaluronic acid, and while both are similar in terms of benefits,
there are key differences between the two.
WHAT IS SODIUM HYALURONATE?
Sodium hyaluronate is a sodium salt that’s been synthesised to
form smaller molecules for stability and oxidation resistance.
This smaller molecule weight enables greater penetration and
hydration at deeper levels. It is used in various forms for medicinal
purposes as well as cosmetic skincare products and is particularly
useful when included in an active serum formulation.
Skin care uses
If you look closely you will often find sodium hyaluronate as a key
ingredient in a range of skincare products such as creams, gels,
lotion and serums. It is a powerful ingredient as it offers superior
hydration by drawing in moisture to deeply hydrate and plump the
skin, and support collagen integrity.
Eyes, body and healthcare
In addition to skincare products, sodium hyaluronate also plays
a role in treating several medical conditions, and is a primary
ingredient for the following health conditions:
• Dry Eyes: Hyaluronate is often used in eye drops to help
lubricate and sooth dry eyes.
• Osteoarthritis: Where the synovial fluid has deteriorate in
joints due to arthritic conditions as well as wear and tare.
Injecting sodium hyaluronate in the joints can help lubricate and
cushion joints to reduce pain.
• Cystitis: sodium hyaloronate can be used to as an intravesical
treatment for interstitial cystitis. The solution coats the lining of
the bladder to significantly reduce pain and improve
quality of life.
REVIEWING THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN HYALORONIC ACID
AND SODIUM HYALURONATE
The main differences between sodium hyaluronate and hyaluronic
acid is that the former is of smaller molecular weight and is
water-soluble, allowing for deeper penetration and greater
moisture retention.
While both provide similar benefits, this difference in molecular
weight results in different mechanisms of action.
Sodium hyaluronate works deep within the layers of skin to
hydrate, while hyaluronic acid, which often has a larger molecular
size, is better suited protect the surface skin from water loss. Both
support collagen via increased water retention which enables
collagen to stretch without breaking.
Another difference is that sodium hyaluronate is less susceptible
to oxidation, therefore it’s more stable. This is an important
consideration, particularly which it is introduced through an
active serum.
Both are found within skincare products and prized for their
hydrating, plumping and anti-ageing benefits. For optimal results,
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