British Travel Journal | Spring 2024

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BRITISH TRAVEL 

JOURNAL 

SPRING 2024 

BRITISHTRAVELJOURNAL.COM 

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WELLNESS 

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WHERE SPRING COMES EARLY 

Spring on Tresco is time to be awakened... By the incomprehensible array 

of plants in bloom at the Abbey Garden. By an equinox yoga practise or a 

cool coastal escape. By open water swimming, Tresco-wide walking, by 

nourishing nature as it comes to life with the island’s unique rhythm. 

TRESCO.CO.UK/SPRING 

Tresco: 28 miles off the Cornish coast. Somewhere else altogether.

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JOURNAL 

BritishTravelJournal.com 

EDITORS 

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Jessica Way 

FEATURES EDITOR Samantha Rutherford 

CHIEF SUB-EDITOR Angela Harding 

PROOFREADER Karyn Noble 

HEAD OF DIGITAL Adrian Wilkinson 

CONTRIBUTORS 

Sophie Farrah, Chantal Haines, 

Jane Knight, Emma O’Reilly, 

Rosie Underwood, Jessica Way 


COVER PHOTO 

— 


JOURNAL 


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The Goodwood Estate in the heart of West Sussex 

Photo by Christopher Ison 

Read about Goodwood's new country-chic cottages, 

page 16, and their transformative holistic retreat for gut 

health in our wellness retreats special, page 39 

Published by 

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take no responsibility for omissions or errors. Views expressed by 

authors are not necessarily those of the publisher. 

Welcome 

EDITOR’S LETTER 

— 

As we welcome the spring season, we are delighted 

to present our travel and wellness special. Our 

features this issue take you on an exciting journey 

across the UK, exploring some of the most 

stunning and unique destinations the country has to offer. 

We bring you an exclusive look at singer and songwriter 

Charlotte Church's new healing retreat, The Dreaming, nestled 

in the serene Welsh countryside (p26). We also take a ride in 

an all-electric beach-buggy-turned-mini-jeep to discover the 

Lizard Peninsula, Cornwall's best-kept secret (p30). 

For those seeking wellness retreats, we have got you 

covered with our guide to the best wellness destinations across 

the UK (p39), from rewilding in South Devon to scream 

therapy at Armathwaite Hall. We also take a deep dive 

into the iconic Scottish hotel Gleneagles, as it celebrates its 

centenary (p60), and explore Simon Rogan's farm and worldrenowned 

field-to-fork restaurants in the Lake District (p72). 

If you're looking to immerse yourself in nature, we suggest 

a weekend at Silverlake Dorset, a luxury estate in the heart of 

Dorset (p66); or a stay at Elmley, the only National Nature 

Reserve in the UK where you can spend the night (p78). 

Plus, we bring you up-to-date on all the latest travel news 

(p9), showcase a unique experience aboard Fingal, a former 

Northern Lighthouse Board ship transformed into a luxury 

floating hotel (p58), and we offer you the chance to win a 

luxurious fine dining stay at a Michelin-star PoB Hotel (p36). 

We hope this edition of British Travel Journal inspires you to 

explore and discover the beauty of the UK. Happy reading and 

safe travels! 

@BritishTravelJournal 

Jessica x 

JESSICA WAY 

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF 

– 

@BritishTravelJournal 

@BTravelJournal 

BritishTravelJournal.com 3

A British brand powered by nature, backed by science 

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CONTENTS 

SPRING 2024 | ISSUE 17 

84 

66 

39 

FEATURES 

26 

SPOTLIGHT ON THE DREAMING 

British Travel Journal takes a trip to the serene and picturesque 

Welsh countryside to explore singer and songwriter Charlotte Church’s 

new healing retreat, with everything from silent dawn discos to sound 

therapy and tree planting. 

30 

SUITE DREAMS DOWN SOUTH 

Discover one of Cornwall's best-kept secrets, the Lizard 

Peninsula, in a brand new, all-electric beach-buggy-turned-mini-jeep; 

one of the perks of staying in the luxurious Island View Suite of the 

Polurrian Hotel. 

39 

(RE) TREAT YOURSELF 

From rewilding in South Devon to chilling out in Essex; from 

fitness transformation in Somerset to deep rest in Yorkshire; and with 

unique experiences ranging from scream therapy at Armathwaite Hall 

to wild swimming at Harbour Beach Club, Salcombe; we bring you the 

lowdown on the best wellness retreats. 

60 

100 GLORIOUS YEARS 

Explore the iconic Scottish hotel Gleneagles, as it 

celebrates its centenary. British Travel Journal uncovers all that this 

luxurious hotel has to offer, from world-renowned golf to falconry 

and gastronomic delights, and its brand-new opulent townhouse. 

66 

NATURE'S HAVEN 

Discover the secluded sanctuary of Silverlake Dorset, a 

luxury hidden estate in the heart of Dorset, where British Travel Journal 

spends a weekend exploring the scenic lakes, stand-up-paddle 

boarding and unwinding at the spa. 

72 

GOING ROGAN 

From Henrock to L'Enclume, we go on a culinary adventure 

exploring Simon Rogan's farm and renowned field-to-fork restaurants 

in the Lake District, where sustainability, seasonality and world-class 

culinary innovation come together in a delicious harmony. 

78 

WHERE THE WILD THINGS ARE 

With stunning cabins and unique wildlife experiences, the 

beautiful Elmley is the only National Nature Reserve in the UK where 

you can spend the night. 



£6.95 

E D I T O R 

L O V E S 

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cushioning that wearing them feels like 

you're walking barefoot, and they look 

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minimal leather upper that can fold flat, 

so they are perfect for packing light or 

carrying in your hand luggage. 

Priced £110, keenfootwear.com 

84 

THE TINY ISLAND WITH 

BIG SPIRIT 

Discover Herm, an unspoiled island retreat in 

the Channel Islands. With its stunning scenery, 

natural beauty, and rich history, Herm is a perfect 

sanctuary for wellness, offering tranquil beaches, 

coastal footpaths, and exquisite sunsets. 

92 

SUBLIME SUITES 

From the Estelle Suite at Estelle Manor 

to the Treehouse suites at Chewton Glen, 

discover the finest and most luxurious suites in 

the UK, experiencing everything from divine 

floors of a historic castle to literary chambers 

and spa lodges. 

77 



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JOTTINGS 

09 

TRAVEL NEWS 

Discover brand-new hotels like the 

Avington Estate in Winchester and The Store 

in Oxford, or accommodation as unique as 

TreeDwellers in Cornbury; and stay up-todate 

on the most exciting places to stay and 

attractions to visit across the UK. 

25 

ART FUND MUSEUM OF 

THE YEAR 

British Travel Journal shines a spotlight on the 

Art Fund Museum of the Year and elebrates 

the innovation and excellence of museums 

and galleries across the UK. 

36 

STARS IN THEIR EYES 

In celebration of the highest 

distinction in gastronomy, this is your 

chance to win one of three luxurious 

fine-dining stays at a PoB Hotel with a 

Michelin-star restaurant. 

58 

NAUTICAL INDULGENCE: 

ALL ABOARD! 

Sip cocktails and enjoy mesmerising 

waterfront views aboard Fingal, a former 

Northern Lighthouse Board ship transformed 

into a luxury floating hotel. 

92 

This limited-edition 'Phases of The 

Goddess' candle features an inset 

sodalite stone, and burns with scents 

of cedarwood to provide balance, fir 

needles to boost your mood, and clove 

to reduce anxiety. 

Priced £35, chlobo.co.uk 

6 BritishTravelJournal.com

Scan the QR code to 

view our portfolio 

Stay in the UK’s finest 

handpicked luxury cottages 

– 

Gather your nearest and dearest and enjoy a memorable escape 

this spring. For special birthdays, celebrations, overdue reunions and 

more, we’ve got a luxury cottage you’ll absolutely adore. 

luxurycottages.com

COMPOSE YOUR OWN UNIQUE STORY, WEAVING THE NARRATIVE THROUGH 

EACH OF OUR DISTINCT PROPERTIES, ON A JOURNEY LIKE NO OTHER. 

WWW.ICONICLUXURYHOTELS.COM

Spring 

TRAVEL NEWS 

Celebrate the arrival of spring by booking a getaway in a country hotel, 

a cool beach house, an off-grid cabin, or even a double-decker bus 

Text by Jane Knight 

HOTEL NEWS 

GLAMPING 

SELF-CATERING 

EXPERIENCES 

from page 10 from page 14 

from page 16 from page 21 

Pictured anticlockwise from top: Outbuildings Farm’otel, Dorset; Avington Estate, Winchester; TreeDwellers, The Cotswolds; 

Serenity from Beach Retreats, Dorset; Route YC, Yorkshire’s coastal cycle routes

Hotel News 

THE COTSWOLDS 

The Pig and The 

Village Pub 

The Pig’s pen is expanding with Barnsley 

House and its village pub near Cirencester 

due to open as part of the restaurant-withrooms 

group this summer. The hotel already 

has a working kitchen garden to supply the 

restaurant; its spa will allow more than the 

Pig’s usual Potting Shed massages. Sign 

up on the website to get alerts as soon 

as bookings open. Two other piggies are 

planned, with The Pig on the Farm, Stratford- 

Upon-Avon, due at the end of the year, and 

The Pig at Groombridge, Tunbridge Wells, 

next summer. Pig heaven indeed. ◆ 

Prices yet to be set; thepighotel.com 

SCOTLAND 

IMAGE © VISIT SCOTLAND / PAUL TOMKINS 

The Haven at Plockton 

There’s more room at the Inn at Plockton in the Northwest Highlands, 

which has just opened The Haven in the adjacent building, adding 20 

modern rooms to an existing dozen. Explore the countryside around 

the beautiful bay of Loch Carron, which is just down the street, then 

return to feast on freshly caught langoustines for dinner. ◆ 

Rooms from £119, with breakfast; plocktoninn.co.uk 

OXFORD 

The Store 

The name says it all – a hotel in a former department store. What 

was Boswells in the heart of Oxford is metamorphosing into a 101- 

room hotel with rooftop bar and subterranean spa. When it opens 

in May you can expect velvet headboards and panelled walls, along 

with views of the dreaming spires of Oxford from the upper levels. ◆ 

Prices yet to be set; thestoreoxford.com 


THE CHILTERNS 

The Stag & Huntsman, Hambleden 

Venison Scotch egg and stag burger are among the tasty treats served 

using estate produce in this pub just outside Henley-on-Thames. 

Now under the same owners as the superb Bottle & Glass Inn, its 

nine rooms have been revamped alongside the restaurant refit. 

Rooms from £125, with breakfast; stagandhuntsman.com 

WILTSHIRE 

The Bath Arms, Longleat 

We’ve long been a fan of the Beckford Group, 

a clutch of wallet-friendly pubs with rooms 

offering good food and simple but charming 

bedrooms. Their sustainable Bramley products 

were created by Chloë Luxton, for the group’s 

first inn, The Beckford Arms. Now sister 

property, The Bath Arms, on the Longleat 

Estate, is introducing a treatment cabin in 

its gardens, where Bramley’s new skincare 

range will be used in spoiling massages and 

facials. And the best bit? Like the pub’s 16 

rooms, they’re extremely good value, with a 

60-minute facial costing £60. ◆ 

Rooms from £130, with breakfast; 

batharmsinn.com 

Editor loves 

LONDON 

Native King’s Wardrobe, St Paul’s 

Self-cater in the capital in this latest addition to 

aparthotel group Native Places, set in a private 

courtyard just behind St Paul’s Cathedral. Formerly used 

to house the king’s ceremonial and state robes, the seven 

Grade-II-listed townhouses have received a thoroughly 

modern update and are available in sizes from compact 

studios to spacious three-bedroom apartments. ◆ 

Studios from £250, with breakfast; 

nativeplaces.com 


3032-Half-Page-Britain-Ad-202x129mm-AW.indd 1 07/07/2023 14:45 

STYLISH RETREATS IN THE UK’S DREAMIEST LOCATIONS 

From cosying up fireside in a country cottage, to stargazing from a dreamy 

hot tub at your clifftop hideaway, escape the everyday and seek the magic 

of a staycation with Boutique Retreats. With over 280 luxury abodes to 

choose from, uncover our curated collection of luxury retreats, set in 

unique locations across the UK. We know how good getaways should be. 

boutique-retreats.co.uk 

+44 (0)1872 553 491 

enquiries@boutique-retreats.co.uk

SCOTLAND 

IMAGE © VISIT SCOTLAND / JOHN DUNCAN 

Another Place, Islay 

Lake District hotel Another Place will gain yet another place this 

spring with the addition of the 47-room Machrie on the Scottish 

island of Islay. Activities will range from whisky tasting to boat 

trips and golf. Back in Cumbria, the hotel has also bought the 

Brackenrigg Inn. 

Rates yet to be set; another.place 

HAMPSHIRE 

Avington Estate, 

Winchester 

Take one 150-acre family estate with a striking 

stately home at its heart, then add everything 

from shepherd's huts and lakeside lodges to 

historic house apartments and an 

uber-cool contemporary pad for 14 and 

you have something to please everyone. 

There’s even a pub with rooms and a deli 

in the neighbouring village. The owner of 

The Nici hotel in Bournemouth is opening 

up his estate, adding activities from cocktail 

making and floristry workshops to yoga and 

paddleboarding, as well as a wild spa. ◆ 

From £150 in the pub to £1,750 a night for 

14 sharing Stillwaters House; avington.com 

Editor loves 

LANCASHIRE 

Moor Hall, Aughton 

Foodies flock to the village of Aughton to eat at Moor 

Hall Restaurant and Rooms, which has two Michelin 

stars in chef/patron Mark Birchall’s glass-walled 

restaurant, and another star in sister restaurant The 

Barn. The property’s seven rooms are set to double 

their number in late spring with the addition of swish 

new garden rooms. ◆ 

Dinner, bed and breakfast for two from £1,100; 

moorhall.com 


Glamping 

LINCOLNSHIRE 

Double Deckerdence, 

Highfield Farm 

For a fun family getaway, look no further than 

these two double-deckers, beautifully joined on 

the upper decks to create an open-plan kitchen 

diner with seating areas and wood burner. An 

outdoor terrace is home to a hot tub with farreaching 

views. Downstairs, one side has been 

converted into a master suite with roll-top bath, 

while on the other, you’ll find bunks for the kids 

as well as a climbing wall, tunnel and ball pit. 

The ‘bus stop’ is unique too, with an outdoor 

shower, pizza oven and firepit. ◆ 

From £219 a night for five; 

canopyandstars.co.uk 

OXFORDSHIRE 

TreeDwellers, Cornbury 

These seven treehouses in the woods near Chipping Norton aren’t like 

any you’ve ever seen before – the timber, glass and aluminium structures 

look more like curved tubes. Each is home to a kitchen, and one or two 

bedrooms, while out in the forest is another unique building where you 

can lie and listen to the amplified sounds of nature. They open in June. ◆ 

From £210 a night for two; treedwellers.com 

EAST SUSSEX 

Mabel, Unplugged 

In need of a digital detox? This cosy cabin, the 21st from 

Unplugged, could be the place to do it. It comes with a firepit, 

wood burner, instant camera, board games and books, as well 

as a lockbox to shut away your phone. All you need to do is 

lie back and take in those views. ◆ 

Three nights for two from £390; unplugged.rest 


EAST ANGLIA 

Wild with Consent 

Go wild camping legally on the new driving route East Anglia 

350 in a Land Rover Defender with roof tent. Get away from 

the rabble and connect with nature on the coast and in the 

countryside for two, three or five nights. 

Two nights with camper hire from £690; wildwithconsent.com 

DORSET 

Outbuildings Farm’otel 

When they say outbuildings, they mean a chicken 

coop, pig sty and cider-press on this farm near 

Bridport, although they’ve been tarted up 

to a gorgeous level of refined rusticity for an 

adults-only getaway. Think beamed ceilings 

and flagstone floors alongside contemporary 

kitchenettes and copper bath tubs. Now two new 

buildings are opening in The Byre for couples. 

There’s food at The Cart Shed and drinks in The 

Baaaa. You can cosy up among the hay bales at 

the Hay Barn Cinema or book the outdoor hot 

tub, which comes with a bottle of fizz. ◆ 

A night for two from £190; 

holidayoutbuildings.com 

WALES AND CHESHIRE 

Shacks 

Take the dog and switch off from the world in these 

off-grid cabins, with solar power, composting loos and 

sustainable coffee and toiletries. There are beautiful 

walks right from the door, and when you return, you 

can rustle up some food in the kitchen, then settle by 

the wood burner to play a game or read a book. ◆ 

Three nights for two and a dog from £450; 

shacks.co.uk 


Self-Catering 

KENT 

Leeds Castle lodges 

You can gaze out at the Great Water 

surrounding the fairy tale Leeds Castle near 

Maidstone from the bed, the outdoor bath and 

the private deck when you stay in one of these 

four new Lakeside Lodges. Ideal for couples, 

the timber lodges also have a skylight over the 

bed so you can indulge in a little stargazing. 

It’s a five-minute walk through the gardens to 

reach the castle itself, owned by six of England’s 

medieval queens and recreated by Lady Baillie 

in the 1920s. Dinner and breakfast are served in 

a restaurant overlooking the castle. ◆ 

Lodges for two from £245, with breakfast; 

leedscastle.co.uk 

NORTHUMBERLAND 

The Dovecot at Reedsford 

Perfect for lovebirds, this converted dovecot in a Grade-II-listed tower is 

set in rolling countryside on the edge of the Northumberland National 

Park. As well as a modern kitchen with far-reaching views, it features 

charming original details, with the old recesses where doves once nested 

now used as nooks for books and artefacts. ◆ 

Two nights from £420; crabtreeandcrabtree.com 

WEST SUSSEX 

Peach Tree & Crab Apple cottages 

When they say these two country-chic cottages on the Goodwood 

estate are dog friendly, they mean it – they even have doggie bunk 

beds for pampered pooches. Take your four-legged friend across the 

road to dine with you at the Goodwood Hotel before retiring in one of 

the two bedrooms, both with their own bathroom. ◆ 

From £400 a night for four humans, plus dogs; goodwood.com 


CORNWALL 

Una St Ives Resort 

Once you’ve stayed in one of these Cornish-stone villas with 

picture windows, a private hot tub and Scandi-chic interior, you 

won’t want to go home. The 27 two-, three- and four-bedroom 

properties join an existing 29 timber lodges on the resort, with 

solar panels and sedum roofs. 

Two-bedroom villa from £200; unastives.co.uk 

STAFFORDSHIRE 

The Fledglings at 

The Tawny 

We love The Tawny’s deconstructed hotel, with 

shepherd’s huts, lakeside retreats and treehouses 

scattered around the 70-acre Consall estate. 

Now the hotel is moving into self-catering. 

Kestrel Cottage, the first of three properties on 

the nearby Basford estate, comes with its own 

outdoor swimming pool that’s heated year-round, 

as well as four bedrooms, a private bar and games 

room. The contemporary kitchen is stocked with 

Emma Bridgewater pottery; guests can take 

factory tours and decorating experiences, as 

well as book everything from foraging to forest 

bathing from the on-site concierge. ◆ 

Three-night weekends from £3,900 for 

eight; thetawny.co.uk 

Editor loves 

DEVON 

Serenity from Beach Retreats 

The sea is just five minutes’ walk away from this cool beach 

house with a luxury surf-shack feel. Double-height ceilings 

create a feeling of space, there’s surfer-chic artwork and 

leafy plants throughout, and three bathrooms to go with 

the trio of bedrooms. It makes a great base from which to 

hike the South West Coast Path. ◆ 

A week from £895 for eight; beachretreats.co.uk 


NORTH WALES 

The West End, Hawarden 

Calling all history fans – you can now stay in part of the former 

home of William Gladstone at Hawarden Castle. The West End 

comes with original artwork in its five bedrooms, roll-top baths, a 

sauna, a hot tub, and access to Gladstone’s private library. 

Three-night weekends from £3,300 for ten; 

hawardenestateholidays.co.uk 

DEVON 

Woolbrook Reservoir, 

Sidmouth 

Staying in a former reservoir might not 

sound that appealing until you see the 

architectural wonder that has been created 

in this property. The two-storey home with 

a circular layout has a turfed roof with a 

central keyhole cut out, its courtyard edges 

surrounded by huge walls of glass. Six 

contemporary bedrooms share a supersmart 

kitchen, a home gym and games room. 

Outside lies an outdoor sitting room with 

fireplace and hot tub, plus more than an acre 

of gardens. If you can tear yourself away, 

East Devon’s Jurassic Coast is nearby. ◆ 

A week for 16 from £4,249; 

luxurycoastal.co.uk 

ESSEX 

Marlborough Manor, Alresford 

Big house hires don’t come much better than this 

imposing manor, where the ten bedrooms all enjoy 

their own bathroom and where the enormous kitchen 

is stuffed with all the necessaries (there’s also a laundry 

room). There's a series of elegant public rooms, and in 

the pretty grounds you’ll find a heated pool and a tennis 

court, while just next door lies a magical adventure park 

for young children; visitors get free entry. ◆ 

Two-night weekends for 20 from £4,400; 

kateandtoms.com 


STAY • EAT • CELEBRATE

Britain’s 

Greatest 

Palace 

Birthplace of Sir Winston Churchill 

UNESCO World Heritage Site 

blenheimpalace.com 

partnerships@blenheimpalace.com 

SEE WHAT’S ON 

Registered charity number 1166164

Experiences 

NORTHUMBERLAND 

Hike the Coastal Path 

The recent opening of the final 

Northumberland section of the King Charles 

III England Coast Path between Bamburgh 

and the Scottish border means you can take a 

spring hike all the way from Bridlington in the 

East Riding of Yorkshire to Scotland. The 245- 

mile section of a planned 2,700-mile national 

trail is the longest section open to the public 

so far. The route along Northumberland’s 

coast is known for its spectacular beaches, 

often backed by rolling dunes and intertidal 

mudflats, as well as views of Bamburgh Castle 

and the Holy Island of Lindisfarne. The whole 

trail will be walkable from the year end. ◆ 

For further details visit: nationaltrail.co.uk 

IMAGE © VISITBRITAIN/YIN SUN PHOTOGRAPHY 

IMAGE © NATIONAL TRUST IMAGES / JOHN MILLER 

WEST SUSSEX 

Petworth Park Antiques & Fine Art Fair 

It’s a veritable Aladdin’s cave at this annual fair in Petworth House, 

from 17 to 19 May. Among the items on sale is a plate by René Lalique 

commissioned to be given to King George VI (£4,850); a Venetian 

silvered armchair from about 1800 (£1,200); a 1.5-carat diamond 

solitaire ring (£12,950); and an abstract painting by Ivon Hitchens 

called Wildflower Wood (£160,000). ◆ 

Entry £10; petworthparkfair.com 

YORKSHIRE 

Herd it on the Grapevine 

Find out about making wine in the North of England and spot 

Highland cattle on the Dumble Farm Bus tour of the Laurel Vines 

Vineyard and Winery in Aike, East Yorkshire. The tours, which depart 

on Wednesdays with a minimum of two people, include a picnic 

featuring sandwiches, scones and a bottle of their own wine. ◆ 

Tour for two £80; laurel-vines.co.uk 


YORKSHIRE 

Coastal Cycle Routes 

Get in the saddle and follow one of a dozen new cycling 

itineraries from Route YC that take in Yorkshire’s coast and 

countryside. They range from nine to 260 miles, with day trips 

from the towns of Whitby, Scarborough and Filey; and the North 

York Moors village of Grosmont. 

For further details visit: routeyc.co.uk/cycling 

NORFOLK 

Norwich Castle 

William the Conqueror started building it, 

and his son Henry I completed one of the most 

spectacular buildings in medieval Europe in 

1121. Now the Grade-I-listed keep at Norwich 

Castle is set to reopen in the summer after a 

£15 million redevelopment. From basement 

to battlements, the castle will hold immersive 

exhibits that enable visitors to do everything 

from dressing as a monarch and sitting on the 

throne to breathing in the smells of everyday 

medieval life. The keep will also hold The 

British Museum’s first medieval gallery outside 

London, with more than 1,000 artefacts. ◆ 

museums.norfolk.gov.uk 

Looking ahead 

SCOTLAND 

Scenic Sauna, Perthshire 

Feel the heat in Scotland in this new forest sauna, which 

has just been added for guests staying at the Treehouses 

at Lanrick. Built into the woodland’s undulating 

floor and with a turf roof and secret door, the sauna, 

accessed by a secret door in the hillside, initially appears 

as little more than a mound in the landscape. ◆ 

Treehouses for two from £260; 

lanricktreehouses.co.uk 


THE PETWORTH PARK 

ANTIQUES & FINE ART FAIR 

THE MARQUEE 

PETWORTH PARK 

PETWORTH 

W. SUSSEX GU28 0QY 

Come and buy the very finest 

art and antiques at our tenth 

annual event of distinction 

17-19 MAY 2024 

Friday 11.00 - 19.00 

Saturday 10.30 - 18.00 

Sunday 10.30 - 17.00 

THE 

ANTIQUES 

DEALERS 

FAIR 

LIMITED 

01797 252030 

www.petworthparkfair.com 

To request a complimentary invitation for 

three please email BTJ@adfl.co.uk 

supported by 

WHAT’S ON 

WHAT’S ON 

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a a As wonderful well as housing a wonderful 

and and eclectic and eclectic collection, collection, it and presents 

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and and contemporary and art art and art and a and dynamic 

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and and events and events for for all for all ages. 

all ages. and events for all ages. 

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2025 2024 – 5 January 2025 

The The Holburne The Holburne (aka (aka (aka Lady Lady Lady Danbury’s The Holburne Danbury’s (aka Lady Danbury 

house house in Netflix’s in in Netflix’s popular popular house Bridgerton) 

in Netflix’s popular Bridge 

is one is one is of one of the of the UK’s the UK’s UK’s best best best loved 

is one loved of the UK’s best loved 

independent museums. 

museums. independent museums. 

holburne.org 

holburne.o

SPECIAL FEATURE 

ART FUND 

MUSEUM OF THE YEAR 

Spotlighting innovation and excellence of museums and galleries across the UK 

A 

prize grounded in 50 years of 

history championing the UK's 

museums, galleries and historic 

places, Art Fund Museum of the 

Year is awarded annually to five outstanding 

museums in the UK. 

The prize awards museums that show 

astonishing ambition and boundless 

creativity, demonstrate transformational 

impact, and redevelop their offers by 

responding to vital issues of today. The 

winner of the 10th-anniversary edition 

in 2023 was The Burrell Collection in 

Glasgow. The four other brilliant finalists 

were Leighton House in London, The MAC 

in Belfast, the Natural History Museum 

in London, and Scapa Flow Museum in 

Orkney – each serves as a blueprint for 

future innovation in museums. The four 

finalists received £15,000, and the winning 

museum received £120,000 – the largest 

museum prize in the world. 

The judges visited each of the finalists 

to inform their decision-making, while each 

museum made the most of being shortlisted 

over the summer through events and 

activities for new and current visitors. The 

2024 shortlist will be announced this spring. ◆ 

ABOUT ART FUND 

Art Fund is the charity that connects museums, 

people and art. For 120 years, they have been 

helping museums and people to share in great 

art and culture. Art Fund is an independent 

membership organisation supported by 

partners, donors, trusts, and foundations, as 

well as 135,000 National Art Pass holders 

who enjoy free or discounted entry to over 850 

museums, galleries, and historic places. 

See all past winners and finalists plus 

hundreds more across the UK with a National 

Art Pass: artfund.org/national-art-pass 


Spotlight ON 

THE DREAMING 

We take a visit to singer and songwriter Charlotte Church’s new 

retreat deep in the the serene and picturesque Welsh countryside 

Text by Emma O’Reilly

Hanging out with a druid was not quite what I was 

expecting from my stay at The Dreaming. To be 

fair, I am not sure what I was really expecting from 

this Welsh healing retreat, created by Charlotte 

Church. The website had mentioned all sorts of potential 

activities… but I’m pretty sure there was nothing about 

druids! Our couple of hours with Kris Hughes, chief of the 

Anglesey Druid Order, turned out to be one of the highlights 

of my stay, with intriguing stories of Druidry past and present, 

about their beliefs and their worship of Mother Nature. 

Afterwards, we perform a small celebratory ceremony in the 

woods, in an area called the Grove of the Holly King. 

It turns out that activities – known as offerings – vary on 

each three-day retreat. I ponder that it’s probably a wise idea 

not to tell people what to expect, but instead to encourage 

them to be receptive to new experiences. When we arrive 

there is a blackboard with an ‘itinerary’. It’s a little vague. 

What are Celestial Blessings, for example? It turns out to 

be a silent dawn disco, which we all, amazingly, turn up for 

at 6.30 in the morning. Who would have thought listening 

to music, while wearing headphones and a jumper over my 

pyjamas, barefoot on a damp dawn lawn would be so much 

fun. Everyone is scattered around the grounds, lost in their 

own little worlds – swaying, bobbing, jumping, depending on 

chosen playlists. I feel I have earned my breakfast for once. It 

is, as with all meals here, eaten with other guests – a maximum of 

14 – in the Refectory. The room is large, with a fire on cooler days, 

and joyous valley views. It also flows into a lounging area, with a 

giant, squashy sofa that demands you curl up. 

The food is divine – healthy, inventive, and mainly 

vegetarian and vegan. Alcohol is not served at all. At first, I 

slyly hint to a few likely collaborators that we could abscond 

to the local pub if we got desperate. But we don’t. 

The Dreaming sits at the bottom of the Elan Valley, near 

the small town of Rhayader. It’s in the county of Powys, in 

the heart of rural Wales. The large Arts & Craft house (aka 

Rhydoldog) was once the family home of Laura Ashley and 

her family and is encircled with glorious woodland and hills. It’s 

easy to see why she fell for it. Charlotte first stumbled across 

it when looking for somewhere to set up a glamping business. 

Instead, she felt inspired to sink her life savings – along with 

some not insubstantial borrowings – into creating this retreat 

for burned out souls. It helps that there is no Wi-Fi and little in 

the way of phone signal, forcing guests to ditch the tech. 


‘ 

One evening we try sound therapy 

in the Healing Room. Charlotte 

often leads this herself on midweek 

retreats, combining sounds with her 

own pure vocals. 

’ 

It also helps that Charlotte has transformed the house 

into a bohemian fantasy of earthy colours, flowing drapes and 

glowing lights. It couldn’t feel less ‘Laura Ashley’ – although 

there is a nod to the famous designer in the house. The small 

Print Room, now a lounge for those wanting a quiet space, 

was once Laura’s office and studio, where she dreamed up 

her designs. It’s fitting then that Charlotte commissioned a 

wallpaper, using a Laura Ashley dress as inspiration, for the 

walls in this room. There’s a cabinet in here, too, with blackand-white 

photos of the house in years gone by and a pair of 

Laura’s boots, well worn in from long walks across the estate. 

We go on a long walk ourselves, accompanied by The 

Dreaming’s horticulturalist, Paul. It’s a steep climb up through 

woodland thick with sky high spruce, red cedar and larch, past 

dashing waterfalls amd boulders dripping with moss. After a final 

push up ‘Hell Hill', we are rewarded when we emerge onto open 

moorland with distant views of mountains and rivers. It is magical. 

Next there is tree planting – we uproot small saplings that 

have self-seeded in flowerbeds and replant them in the woods. 

Our names are put on them – a nice touch to encourage guests 

to return to see ‘their’ tree. We are also each given one to take 

and plant at home. 

One evening we try sound therapy in the Healing Room. 

Charlotte often leads this herself on midweek retreats, 

combining sounds with her own pure vocals. Alas, she is not 

around during our trip, but our lovely practitioner, Mary-Claire, 

asks us to lie on our backs, with our eyes closed. She proceeds 

to strum, bang, ring and shake everything from gongs and 

glass ‘singing’ bowls to lyres, bells and rainsticks. Sounds shift 

from soft and gentle to loud and insistent and then back again. 

It’s an interesting feeling, with vibrations reverberating through 

my entire body and strange images flashing through my mind. 

It’s the end of the day and I head straight to bed. I sleep deeply 

that night. 

Outside of the activities (which are all optional) there is 

plenty of time to just relax and unwind. The seven bedrooms 

are all unique. Mine, which I’m sharing with a friend, has 

two beds. Each is like a cocoon, enclosed by curtains. I read 

a book, with no interruption. Some other braver souls in the 

group try out one of the two natural plunge pools. The other is 

temporarily out of action, taken over by hundred of tiny froglets 

(baby frogs) who may not have enjoyed the intrusion. 

I also choose to get together with the group as we all 

start to know each other better. One night we stargaze (the 

Elan Valley is one of the few places in the UK to achieve 

International Dark Sky Park status). Another time we have a 

campfire, toast marshmallows and sing. A fellow guest has 

brought his guitar and can seemingly play just about any song 

ever written, and so we make requests and sing along together. 

Before we leave the following morning, we gather around 

with our new friends and write down our thoughts about our 

stay, before reading them aloud. Everyone feels sad to go 

and a few of us linger, checking out everyone else’s rooms and 

drinking a final coffee before we hit the road. 

This three-day retreat feels transformative – a first step on 

a journey to better physical and mental health. It highlights 

the need to switch off from the rest of the world occasionally 

and to concentrate on giving time and energy to one’s own 

health and wellbeing. It encourages guests to make time for 

themselves and others, to connect with nature at a deeper level 

and to have pure, childish fun. I also vow to walk barefoot in my 

garden each morning. Not sure I’ll be doing the disco, though 

– silent or otherwise. The neighbours would think I have finally 

lost the plot! 

Three-night retreats at The Dreaming start from £540 per 

person and include all meals, drinks and activities. One place on 

every trip is reserved for someone who could not otherwise afford 

to attend, on a ‘pay what you can’ basis; thedreaming.co.uk 

IMAGES © REKHA GARTON 


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SUITE DREAMS 

Down South 

Could the Lizard Peninsula be Cornwall’s best-kept secret? 

We explore the most southerly part of mainland Britain in a 

mode of transport as unique as the area itself 

Text by Sophie Farrah 

and landscape unlike anywhere else in the county. From 

stunning subtropical gardens and lush green creeks to white 

sandy beaches, lively market towns and coastal communities 

steeped in history, it’s also a haven for rare flora and fauna, 

both on land and in its surrounding waters. While it may be 

remote, the Lizard has an awful lot to offer. 

With so much to explore, a good base was essential. 

Perched on a clifftop directly on the South West Coast 

Path, Polurrian on the Lizard is a beautiful, breezy hotel 

that has been welcoming guests for over a century. As we 

rounded its sweeping driveway, the views took my breath 

away; abundant gardens teeming with colourful flowers 

It’s no secret that many of us have fallen under Cornwall’s 

spell. It’s home to dozens of beautiful and well-loved 

holiday destinations, all with their own charm and 

individual appeal, but dig a little deeper, travel a little 

further, and there are still some corners of this captivating 

county that feel comparatively undiscovered. 

In an attempt to venture off the beaten track, we headed 

south, and south further still, until we eventually came to 

Cornwall’s Lizard Peninsula. An Area of Outstanding Natural 

Beauty (AONB) and home to no less than eight Sites of 

Special Scientific Interest, this rugged outcrop of land is the 

most southerly part of mainland Britain. Uniquely rich in 

serpentine – a beautiful, rare stone, ‘the Lizard’ has a geology 


while sending the first ever transatlantic radio messages from 

nearby Poldhu Cove in 1901. Today, the hotel has a laid-back, 

contemporary feel to it, with 40 modern bedrooms, six threebedroom 

villas, and one very special suite, which we were 

lucky enough to experience. 

With three comfortable bedrooms, two bathrooms, a 

fitted kitchen and a huge terrace complete with private hot 

tub, the recently unveiled Island Suite is the luxurious jewel 

in the hotel's crown. Encompassing one entire corner of the 

hotel’s ground floor, this stylish space offers wraparound 

and windswept trees rolled down towards a vast expanse of 

twinkling blue water. I sat in one of the steamer chairs dotted 

around the cleverly tiered terrace, put my feet up, and basked 

in the picture-perfect sea views across Mount's Bay and the 

turquoise waters of the hotel’s very own beach, Polurrian 

Cove, glimmering below. 

Originally a fashionable railway hotel first built in 1890, 

Polurrian has some famous former guests, including Sir Winston 

Churchill; Hollywood legend Clark Gable; and inventor and 

engineer Guglielmo Marconi, who was staying at the hotel 


sea views and is flooded with natural light. Interior design is 

simple and elegant – a pleasing mix of calming neutral tones, 

tactile wooden furniture, and plush fabrics. There’s an interior 

door that connects the suite to the rest of the hotel and 

another that opens out on to a spacious terrace, providing 

easy access to the hotel’s lush gardens, stunning beach and 

(heated) outdoor pool, so there really is no excuse not to 

have a swim before breakfast. 

Book the Island Suite package and there’s one perk in 

particular that really makes this suite stand out from the 

crowd, and it’s extremely handy if you’re keen to explore the 

area. For the duration of your stay, you are granted exclusive 

use of Polurrian’s fantastic ‘Nosmoke’, a brand-new, allelectric 

beach-buggy-turned-mini-jeep, inspired by the iconic 

automotive design of the 1960s. 

Playful, sturdy and easy to drive, this brilliant, chic little 

motor has to be the very best (and most fun) way to discover 

all that the Lizard has to offer. 


‘ 

Off we went – whizzing along pretty Cornish country lanes, passing 

bulging hedgerows and rolling green fields, turning heads as we went... 

and less than 10 minutes later we pulled into Mullion Cove. 

’ 

Eager to explore, we hopped in as soon as possible, and 

discovered that it had already been prepacked with a freshly 

made picnic by the hotel’s efficient team. Off we went – 

whizzing along pretty Cornish country lanes, passing bulging 

hedgerows and rolling green fields, turning heads as we went. 

A brief smattering of rain wasn’t an issue, thanks to the little 

car’s canvas roof, and less than 10 minutes later we pulled 

into Mullion Cove. 

Originally built in the 1890s and now owned by the 

National Trust, this picture-perfect seaside spot shelters a 

small fishing fleet from powerful westerly storms and is also 

home to a charming tearoom and some fascinating maritime 

history. We strolled around the harbour, admired some very 

able paddleboarders and gazed in awe at the dramatic views 

out to sea. 

Continuing along the Lizard’s east coast, we came to 

the world-famous Kynance Cove, one of Cornwall’s most 

beautiful beaches, celebrated for its white sand, turquoise 

waters, and huge serpentine rock stacks. As the tide was 


low, we made the winding walk down to the stunning beach 

below, where we marvelled at its captivating caves and 

soaked up the Caribbean-like colours. 

We made a beeline for the fishing village of Cadgwith 

next, with its idyllic thatched cottages, village pub, art 

gallery, ice-cream shop and more. The picturesque stroll 

down from the car park is worth the visit alone. 

From ‘The Todden’ – a small headland that separates 

Cadgwith’s two small coves – we devoured our picnic and 

watched as the fishing boats returned home and were winched 

up the beach, ready to have their catch unloaded. 

In the afternoon we ventured to Gunwalloe, where 

we clambered across its rolling sand dunes, explored the 

fascinating medieval church, and strolled along its two 

blissful beaches – Church Cove and Dollar Cove, the latter 

named after the silver dollars that have occasionally washed 

up from the wreck of a 17th-century ship. 

Keeping an eye on the Nosmoke’s battery (it has a range 

of around 40 miles) we headed back to Polurrian, pulling 

over with ease to watch a gam of surfers at Poldhu Cove, and 

to admire the monument that marks where Marconi sent the 

ever first transatlantic message. 

Back at the hotel, our little car was whisked away to be 

recharged, so we settled on the terrace. Had we had the 

energy, the hotel’s tennis court hangs right over the sea. 

There’s also the outdoor pool plus an indoor pool and hot 

tub, a well-equipped gym, and the coast path mere metres 

away. There’s an indoor games room and screening room, 

and golf, surfing and kayaking can also be arranged, but 

after all the adventures of the day we were happy just to kick 

back and enjoy the views with a Cornish gin and tonic. 

That evening we had a delicious pizza, cooked in the 

hotel’s wood-fired oven, on the private terrace of our suite 

before watching the most magnificent sunset from the 

comfort of the hot tub. Talk about luxury. 

The start of the following day was equally as splendid; 

Polurrian’s Island Suite package includes one 25-minute spa 

IMAGES © ADOBE STOCK / MICHAEL CHARLES / ADJ BROWN 


‘ 

We then whizzed to the pretty harbour town of Porthleven, 

home to some of Cornwall’s best restaurants. 

’ 

treatment (per adult) in the hotel’s Health Club, so after a 

thoroughly relaxing Elemis back, neck and shoulder massage, 

we were ready for more exploring. 

Back in the Nosmoke, we headed for the ancient market 

town of Helston, which has a fascinating folk museum, a 

choice of excellent pasties, and is perhaps most famous for 

Flora Day, an ancient festival involving plenty of flowers and 

dancing that usually takes place in May. We then whizzed 

to the pretty harbour town of Porthleven, home to some of 

Cornwall’s best restaurants (try Kota, The Square and The 

Mussel Shoal), as well as a good choice of independent 

shops, cafes and more. 

For our final stop, we made our way to Lizard Point, the 

most southerly spot in mainland Britain and where the Atlantic 

meets the English Channel. This beautiful, dramatic place is 

famous for its wildlife, historic shipwrecks, and for being one of 

the busiest shipping lanes in the world. 

We walked along the coastline and soaked up the 

spectacular views, keeping our eyes peeled for seals and 

dolphins, before stopping for a cider at England's most 

southerly cafe, Polpeor, which has incredible views out to sea. 

That evening, after yet another dip in the hot tub, we 

had a delicious dinner at the hotel. There’s an elegant dining 

room and a more casual, brasserie-style space to choose 

from, both incredibly comfortable and with stunning sea 

views. The Mediterranean-inspired menu uses seasonal 

ingredients from local suppliers, most of which are based 

within a 20-mile radius. We feasted on deliciously fresh 

Cornish mussels with toasted focaccia, citrus-cured mackerel 

with beetroot and apple, and a whole lemon sole doused in a 

beautiful lemon and caper butter. As dessert arrived (a truly 

scrumptious strawberry and lime cheesecake), we watched as 

Cornwall worked its magic once again; the sky exploded into 

a splurge of pink, orange and red as the sun went down, not 

only on the day, but on a truly unforgettable stay exploring 

this unspoilt corner of the world. 

The Island Suite package at Polurrian on the Lizard is available 

all year-round. Prices start at £763 for a two-night stay, based on 

two adults sharing the Island Suite; polurrianhotel.com 


Competition time! 

STARS IN THEIR EYES 

Win an overnight stay and Michelin-star dining at one of three PoB Hotels 

PoB Hotels, a collection of the finest, independent hotels 

across the British Isles, boasts inspiring hotel rooms, 

award-winning spas and mouthwatering menus. 

Showcasing the very best experiences, PoB Hotels is 

proud to feature numerous Michelin-starred restaurants within 

its collection. To celebrate, PoB Hotels has teamed up with 

British Travel Journal to offer you the opportunity to win one of 

three luxury fine-dining stays at either Farlam Hall in Cumbria, 

Gravetye Manor in Sussex or Whatley Manor in the Cotswolds. 

Cedar Tree by Hrishikesh Desai is the newest addition to 

PoB’s collection of Michelin-starred restaurants, having been 

awarded a new star in 2024. The destination restaurant in 

Farlam Hall, set in the beautiful Cumbrian countryside, Cedar 

Tree is a place to relax, indulge and delight the taste buds. 

The restaurant is run by a fantastic team of chefs, with 

multiple AA Rosette awards and now a Michelin star. The team 

crafts beautiful seasonal menus using the very best local and 

regional produce, including the freshest ingredients from the 

hotel’s on-site kitchen garden. 

One lucky winner will experience garden-to-table delights 

and Sussex sparkling wine at one-Michelin-star Sussex country 

manor, Gravetye. Throughout the year the produce from 

Gravetye Manor’s walled kitchen garden, created by William 

Robinson at the turn of the last century, is the driving force 

behind the inspiration and seasonality of their menus. Executive 

Chef George Blogg celebrates the best of British ingredients 

through incorporating locally sourced and Gravetye’s own 

produce from the walled kitchen garden and extensive grounds. 


Scan here to enter · britishtraveljournal.com · 

Expect a truly exceptional dining experience in The Dining 

Room at Whatley Manor – the only PoB Hotel in England to hold 

a Michelin star and a Green Star, awarded in special recognition 

of their sustainable gastronomy efforts. The seasonally changing 

Chef's Menu (six introductions, six courses and a crossover dish) 

displays an inspiring use of flavours, accomplished cooking, and 

creative dishes. Plus, for this lucky winner, there will be a bottle of 

Gusbourne English Sparkling wine in your room on arrival. 

Each hotel is offering an overnight stay for two people with an 

exquisite Michelin-star dining experience, and breakfast. 

Enter for your chance to indulge in the finest seasonal menus, 

crafted by award-winning chefs using locally-sourced and garden-fresh 

ingredients, experiencing the very best in luxury hospitality and fine 

dining. Good luck! To find out more about PoB Hotels visit pobhotels.com 

Pictured 

below left 

to right: 

Whatley 

Manor; 

Gravetye 

Manor; 

Farlam Hall 

ENTER ON OUR WEBSITE 

britishtraveljournal.com/competitions 

Last entries 31 May 2024. Prize is to be 

taken before March 31 2025 – excluding 

special event dates and the festive period. 


The Home of Complete Wellbeing 

Yeotown is an exceptional, multi-award-winning haven of 

health nestled in the rolling hills of the beautiful North Devon 

countryside. We are the first choice for discerning individuals 

who value self-investment and ready to take control of their 

health and mental well-being. Our long-standing mission is 

to provide a high-quality sanctuary of wellness for those who 

seek the extraordinary. Every detail is finely crafted to optimise 

physical and mental health. 

The loyal team of Yeotown mavens are passionate about 

sharing their hard-earned knowledge with those looking for 

a unique, authentic, and nurturing 5-day wellness centred 

experience. Our guests return time and again to enjoy new yet 

accessible ways to live life to the fullest, emerging from their 

stay with more clarity, purpose and strength. 

Yeotown Health Retreat Devon, Snapper, North Devon 

yeotown.com

TREAT 

Yourself 

As we emerge from our winter hibernation, 

British Travel Journal discovers some of the country’s 

very best wellness retreats, designed for reconnection, 

relaxation, and transformation… 

Text by Sophie Farrah

ALSO TRY... 

Coastal calm 

In the vibrant Cornish seaside town of Penzance, 

chic boutique hotel Chapel House offers guests 

a chance to relax and reset by – and in – the sea. 

The two-day wellness package includes an early 

morning guided sea swim (plus a Dryrobe and 

thermos of hot tea or coffee to warm you up 

afterwards), a geothermal session in the town’s 

impressive Jubilee Pool, spa treatment and use of 

the hotel’s pretty garden hot tub and sauna. 

chapelhousepz.co.uk 

Water Therapy 

BEST FOR AQUATIC PARADISE 

Heaven in Devon 

Just footsteps from the picturesque South Sands Beach 

in Salcombe, South Devon, Harbour Beach Club’s 

brand-new two-night wild-swimming package includes 

an invigorating sea-swim session led by a certified coach 

and marine-inspired spa treatments plus complimentary 

watersports lessons, beachside yoga, and time to unwind 

in the sleek spa. 

harbourhotels.co.uk/harbour-beach-club 

Take the plunge 

In Ardmore on the beautiful south coast 

of Ireland, five-star boutique hotel Cliff 

House has created a ‘Seas the Day’ 

retreat, which includes a one-night stay 

in a sea-view room, dinner, and two 

private sessions with a pro swim tutor – 

one in the hotel’s sleek infinity pool, and 

the other in the sea, followed by a welldeserved 

full Irish breakfast. 

cliffhousehotel.ie 



Sleep Therapy 

BEST FOR DEEP REST 

Zzzzzz… 

Sorry, we must have nodded off there. The 

Pro-Sleep Spa Retreat at luxury Surrey hotel 

Pennyhill Park is the ultimate getaway for 

those seeking relaxation and restorative 

rest. This one-night experience includes spa 

access, an 80-minute Tranquillity Pro-Sleep 

Spa Ceremony, and a selection of sleepinducing 

lotions and potions. 

exclusive.co.uk/pennyhill-park 


ALSO TRY... 

Counting sheep 

One of the UK's leading sleep psychologists, Dr Maja Schaedel, 

leads the Good Sleep Retreat at Elizabethan manor house 

hotel, Ockenden Manor in West Sussex. Designed to give 

participants a range of techniques to improve sleep quality, 

this two-night experience includes a consultation, workshops 

and breathwork session with Dr Schaedel, all meals, a guided 

walk, I-SOPOD floatation session, yoga, access to the awardwinning 

spa, and more. 

hshotels.co.uk/ockenden-manor 

Silence please 

Located at the foothills of the awe-inspiring Yorkshire Dales 

National Park, the 3000-acre Broughton Sanctuary is home to 

Avalon, a state-of-the-art wellbeing retreat centre. Its Profound 

Rest Retreat is a six-night immersion, with three full days in 

silence, providing an opportunity to deep dive into the inner 

realms. Expect meditation, yoga, somatic flow, forest bathing, 

crystal bowl sound baths, wild swimming, woodland saunas 

and plant-based food, as well as time to unwind in Avalon’s 

stunning facilities. 

avalonwellbeing.com 


Balance 

BEST FOR A HOLISTIC APPROACH 

Go on a Yeotox 

In North Devon, Yeotown curate authentic, high-quality mind 

and body wellbeing experiences. Its multi-award-winning fiveday 

signature programme is the Yeotox; a modern take on the 

traditional detox retreat with a focus on giving minds and bodies 

a break from the everyday stressors of modern living. Expect 

yoga, guided hikes, fitness sessions, mediation, breathwork, 

massage, nourishing food and more. Cold Water Immersion (CWI) 

experiences with resident expert Paul Irwin involve mindful wild 

swimming and refreshing cold dips – warm up afterwards in the 

restoring sauna, outdoor hot tub, or by the cosy wood burner in the 

living room. Luxurious accommodation is in a beautifully converted 

farmhouse surrounded by rolling fields with the River Yeo running 

through the grounds. 

devon.yeotown.com 

Seasonal splendour 

Taking place in the picture-perfect Peak District and timed to 

coincide with the seasonal solstices, natural skincare brand 

Weleda’s three-day retreats are designed for holistic wellbeing. 

From nutritious organic food to gentle yoga sessions, this is an 

opportunity to reset and replenish, and reconnect with both 

breath and body. 

weleda.co.uk/weleda-wellness-retreat 

ALSO TRY... 

Wild and mindful 

Among the stunning scenery of the Lake District, Michelin-star 

restaurant with rooms Askham Hall is running a series of threenight 

‘Wild and Mindful’ retreats throughout 2024 with ex-SAS 

mountaineer and spiritual guide Krish Thapa providing guided 

meditations, forest bathing, hiking, and award-winning food, all in 

the setting of an historic country home. 

askhamhall.co.uk 


Transformation 

BEST FOR POSITIVE CHANGE 

Chill out 

Prepare to take the plunge at purpose-built detox and 

wellness retreat centre The Glass House in Essex; its 

three-day Cold Therapy experience is an empowering 

and educational introduction to the transformational 

power of the Wim Hof Method, covering breathing 

technique, mindset commitment and cold exposure… 

glasshouseretreat.co.uk 

IMAGES © JUSTIN SATO / JON NICHOLSON 


ALSO TRY... 

A gut feeling 

Want to get to grips with your gut? Set on the beautiful 

Goodwood Estate in West Sussex, The Gut Health 

Programme is a five-day holistic retreat and transformative 

gut-health overhaul, expertly designed to have a restorative 

effect on both body and mind. 

goodwood.com 

Plant power 

Visit 42 Acres to see a regenerative estate, nature reserve 

and wellbeing centre in Somerset that offers a diverse range 

of inspiring retreats, serene surroundings, and beautiful 

accommodation. Popular plant-based cooking duo The 

Happy Pear are hosting a revitalising plant-powered weekend 

there this summer (19–21 July); expect daily yoga, foraging, 

wildlife walks, wild swimming and more, plus delicious meals 

made with produce from the 42 Acres farm and cooking 

demos by The Happy Pear’s Dave and Steve. 

42acres.com 


Reconnecting 

with nature 

BEST FOR BEING IN THE 

NATURAL WORLD 

Bubble bliss 

‘Where the switched-on come to switch off’ 

is the mantra at Finn Lough – a secluded 

hideaway in Northwest Ireland that offers 

complete immersion in the natural world. Its 

Bubble Dome Retreat includes an unforgettable 

overnight stay in a completely transparent 

dome tucked away in a private forest. Guests 

can kayak on the lake, meander through 

woodland, enjoy a yoga class in the lakeside 

bubble or head for the spa and embark on the 

thermal trail; a private two-hour experience 

combining hot and cold therapy that flows 

through a series of cabins. 

finnlough.com/spa 

ALSO TRY... 

Down and dirty 

Stylish Cornish eco-retreat Cabilla has created 

the ultimate ‘Dirty Weekend’, designed for 

those who want to immerse themselves in 

nature, quite literally. Over two nights, guests 

can get their hands dirty by planting trees 

and helping with restoration work before 

learning about soil health and meeting the 

resident beavers. All this plus yoga, a sound 

bath, woodland sauna session, and more. 

Accommodation is in a series of cool cabins 

with luxurious touches. 

cabillacornwall.com 

Rewild yourself 

Set on a beautiful 550-acre estate in South 

Devon and with more than 40 years' experience, 

Sharpham is an internationally recognised 

centre that offers mindfulness retreats with a 

focus on nature connection. There’s a plethora 

of experiences on offer, suitable for all levels. 

Highlights include Stillness & Flow – a four-night 

canoeing retreat on the River Dart, and a sixnight 

Wildlife Discovery Retreat, which includes 

activities such as bird walks, foraging, forest 

bathing, rewilding talks and more. 

sharphamtrust.org 


IMAGES © JENNA FOXTON 


Good Shape 

BEST FOR MOVEMENT 

Witness the fitness 

Taking place on the luxurious Hesdin Estate in 

Somerset and described as a ‘holistic lifestyle 

transformation’, The Body Camp’s weekend retreats 

are designed to motivate participants to achieve 

their fitness, health and weight-loss goals, while also 

identifying certain thoughts, behaviours and lifestyle 

changes. Described as ‘big, fun, and intense’, there’s a 

daily programme of exercise combined with the likes of 

yoga, games, breathwork, cookery workshops, hikes, 

ice baths, quizzes and more, plus plenty of food and 

treats along the way. 

thebodycamp.com

ALSO TRY... 

Go remote 

On the tiny, tranquil island of Sark, one of the Channel 

Islands, sits pretty country house hotel Stocks. Its regular yoga 

retreats offer a unique opportunity to enjoy a variety of yoga 

classes, including hatha yoga, candlelit guided meditation, 

yoga nidra and more, against the backdrop of the island’s 

beautiful, isolated landscape. 

stockshotel.com 

Eat, cleat, repeat 

Explore the rolling roads of Perthshire on a cycling experience 

with multiple world- and Olympic-champion track cyclist, Sir 

Chris Hoy. Hosted by famed five-star hotel Gleneagles, this 

two-night, two-wheeled journey promises a fully rounded 

experience of exhilarating rides immersed in the stunning 

Scottish countryside, coupled with world-class dining and 

deep relaxation in the hotel’s luxurious spa. 

gleneagles.com 


Plus don't miss... 

BEST OF THE REST 

South Lodge 

Luxurious West Sussex hotel South Lodge offers a series 

of seasonal one-night ‘Nature Immersion’ retreats, 

which involve forest bathing, qigong, breathwork 

sessions and more. 

exclusive.co.uk/south-lodge 

Wandering Wild 

Wandering Wild is a unique nature-connection retreat that 

takes place among the ancient landscape of Dartmoor. 

Expect three nights of camping (in private tents), mindful 

walking, meditation and wild swimming. 

wanderingwild.co.uk 

Radiance Yoga 

Radiance Yoga operate weeklong yoga retreats at 

Alladale – a stunning wilderness reserve in the heart of 

the Scottish Highlands. 

alladale.com 

Herb House 

The beautiful Herb House spa at luxury New Forest hotel, Lime Wood, 

is hosting three new ‘Mindfulness and Beyond’ retreats this year, each 

with a focus on mental, emotional and spiritual wellness. 

limewoodhotel.co.uk 

Sunsetbay Wellbeing 

On the beautiful Welsh coast, Sunsetbay Wellbeing’s immersive, 

seasonal retreats include nourishing plant-based food, wild swimming, 

mindful paddleboarding, cycling, forest hiking, waterfall exploration, 

beach yoga and more. 

sunsetbayretreats.com 

Wildbay 

On the Causeway Coast in Northern Ireland, Wildbay’s 

wellness retreats encompass yoga, meditation, hiking 

and sightseeing. 

wildbayretreats.com 

The Salt Sisterhood 

In Cornwall, The Salt Sisterhood host yoga and 

swimming retreats for women seeking to rewild 

themselves. 

thesaltsisterhood.com 

Tresco 

Tresco is a tranquil island offering five-night yoga breaks 

with Lucy Aldridge (April and September) at the newlyrefurbished 

New Inn to rejuvenate your body and soul. 

Also includes massages, bike hire, meditation, gentle 

breath work, and entrance to Tresco Abbey Garden. 

tresco.co.uk 


Our Retreat 

Specialists in luxury wellness experiences around 

the world, Our Retreat's swish sustainable Somerset 

farmhouse involves yoga, Pilates, meditation, breath 

work and guided walks. 

ourretreat.co.uk 

Highcliffe 

On Cornwall’s north coast, luxurious self-catering 

properties Highcliffe offer a self-led retreat that 

involves a surf lesson, sauna on Polzeath Beach 

and Pilates, yoga or personal-training session in 

Highcliffe’s beautiful studio. 

highcliffecornwall.co.uk 

Both Sides 

In North Yorkshire, Cornwall and abroad, Both Sides 

host regular health and wellness retreats for men. 

Expect yoga, breath work, jiujitsu, bushcraft, wild 

swimming, fire ceremonies and more. 

bothsidesretreats.com 

Gaia House 

In Devon, Gaia House is a meditation retreat centre 

and charity offering silent meditation retreats in the 

Buddhist tradition. 

gaiahouse.co.uk 

Armathwaite Hall 

This unique half-day retreat at Armathwaite Hall 

in the Lake District includes a self-guided screamtherapy 

session; a cathartic way of releasing pentup 

emotions that can alleviate emotional tension 

and reduce anxiety. 

armathwaite-hall.com 

The Wild Times 

The Wild Times’ popular ‘yoga, yurts, campfires 

and paddleboarding’ retreats take place in both 

Somerset and the Lake District; expect an actionpacked 

weekend! 

thewildtimes.co

RUN, DANCE 

and explore 

British Travel Journal discovers a wellness festival where you can explore 

the great outdoors and find your inner adventurer – enjoy fresh air, sea views, 

music, running, hiking, beaches and motivational talks from inspiring athletes 

Text by Rosie Underwood

Turn the clocks back ten years ago, and UK 

music festivals were mostly about partying and 

muddy wellies. Well, times are changing, and 

there is a movement of festivals where music is 

becoming secondary to emotionally grounding life-affirming 

experiences, including ice plunges, mind-expanding breath 

work, motivational talks, yoga and even endurance-based 

fitness challenges. 

At Love Trails, the original running, adventure and music 

festival, there’s a different kind of energy. Here, crowds gather 

together to celebrate community, escapism and inquisitive 

creativity – while also exercising and eating well – feeling 

physically fitter in both body and mind. Festivalgoers are 

today swapping drenched tents, hangovers and lager for 

long weekends of wellness – downward dogs, matcha lattes, 

and meditation – leaving with memories of incredible scenery, 

music and connection. Perhaps most importantly, they're 

feeling more emotionally grounded than when they arrived. 

Set against the stunning backdrop of the Gower 

Peninsula, Love Trails is a four-day festival – the base itself is 

nestled into a hillside overlooking the ocean on the grounds 

of a 14th-century castle, and from there, nature is your 

playground. You’ll find some of the most striking trail runs 

or hikes you could ever stumble across: towering limestone, 

gorse-clad cliffs carved by storms, ridged with secret coves, 

and sparkly beaches with forests sprinkled around for good 

measure. There's also surf lessons; foraging; coasteering; 

rock climbing; stand-up paddleboarding; and inspiring talks 

from world-class thought leaders, athletes, scientists and 

authors in the adventure space. Not to mention workshops, 

adventure films, and even a spa. 

Things kick off in the evening with a party run: think 

boomboxes and colourful smoke cannons. Uplifting, euphonic 

beats are still a solid focus,. "It’s a unique multisensory 

combination,’"says Ollie Baxter, Head of Music for the festival. 

"In a world that can sometimes feel isolating, events like ours 

create space for genuine connections, fostering a sense of 

connection that goes way beyond a shared love of a band." 

And it’s clearly resonating; the festival started with just 100 

attendees back in 2017, and by 2019, pre-pre-pandemic, 

2000 people rolled up. In the summer of 2024, Love Trails 

is expected to have almost 4000 thrill-seekers venture to 

the Gower. "We recommend trying a bit of everything," says 

festival founder Theo Larn-Jones, "but we’ve curated the 


festival carefully so that the main music programme doesn’t 

kick off until the evening when most adventure activities are 

over, so you’ll never have to choose between your favourite 

act or a run, for example." 

It's a happy-go-lucky kinda festival, so Theo also 

recommends picking out key things you may enjoy in 

advance, but be prepared for some surprises along the way. 

"People often love the talks and surprise pop-up gigs they 

stumble across over the weekend as much as the bits they 

planned for," says Theo. "So keep an open mind and try to 

experience everything we have to offer." 

In addition to the exciting activities and inspiring talks, 

Love Trails also offers a variety of healthy and delicious food 

options. From vegan to gluten-free, revellers can indulge in 

nourishing meals and snacks throughout the day. And for those 

who want to take their Love Trails experience to the next level, 

there are VIP packages available. 

FESTIVAL HIGHLIGHTS... 

Love Trails top picks 

Athlete Talk: Trail runner, renowned filmmaker and the 

ultimate storyteller, Billy Yang’s taste of the outdoors is 

infectious, and will have you chomping at the bit to get on 

those trails. 

Experience: Running to the sea from the Love Trails festival site 

is the quintessential run-to-wild-swim swim experience. There's 

nothing quite like it on a glorious summer's day. 

Love Trails Festival 2024 is set to take place 11–14 July. Prices 

for the four-day, four-night festival from £240 to include camping 

(bring your own tent or upgrade to glamping). Prices for an 

Ultimate Upgrade ticket, to include unlimited access to trail races 

and ultradistance challenges, luxury shower upgrade, pamperroom 

pass and other goodies, from £395; lovetrailsfestival.co.uk 

Athlete Talk: Listening to Lucy Bartholomew: World renowned 

runner, Lucy knows how to chase summer and her dreams, her 

uplifting messages will help you do the same. 

Music: Listening to Joy (Anonymous) – A high energy dance 

duo performing a DJ set for the bucket list. Their music revels 

in the euphoria of being alive, and all the feelings good or bad 

that come with it. 


CHANNEL ISLANDS

Nautical 

INDULGENCE 

ALL ABOARD! 

Experience the old-world elegance and Scottish charm of Fingal: a luxury 

floating hotel like no other, where seafaring history meets modern glamour 


Welcome to Fingal, a luxury floating hotel 

permanently berthed on Edinburgh’s vibrant 

waterfront, recently awarded 'Hotel of the Year' 

by PoB Hotels and 'Hotel of the Year Scotland' by 

AA, offering five-star accommodation, and fine dining to leave 

you feeling shipshape in no time! 

Enjoy afternoon tea in an art-deco-inspired 2 AA Rosette 

restaurant, with ingredients such as the ship’s own smoked salmon, 

cured on board. Choose from a range of the finest teas followed 

by a selection of perfectly formed savoury and sweet delicacies, all 

made on board in Fingal’s galleys. Sip nautical cocktails at the bar 

and enjoy the mesmerising waterfront views from floor-to-ceiling 

windows. 

This is no ordinary getaway, AA five-star Fingal is a former 

Northern Lighthouse Board ship that has been transformed into a 

unique and exquisite boutique hotel. As you step aboard, you will 

be greeted by the curves and tilts, deck spaces, and beautiful lines 

that tell the story of Fingal’s rich seafaring history, transporting 

you to a bygone era of glamour and style. 

Every contour and angle, from the spectacular cabins with 

their curved walls and portholes to the shimmering ceiling of 

The Lighthouse Restaurant & Bar, is celebrated to offer a unique 

experience far removed from your everyday world. 

The jewel in Fingal’s crown is her vast deck spaces, which 

provide a breathtaking setting for sipping Champagne, 

stargazing and ruminating on the rich heritage and enchanting 

beauty of this one-of-a-kind boutique hotel. Your ship awaits. 

To enjoy an unforgettable afternoon tea at The Lighthouse 

Restaurant & Bar, please reserve a table. Prices are from £55 per 

person or £70 with a glass of Champagne. Rooms at Fingal are priced 

from £300, fingal.co.uk; pobhotels.com 


100 glorious 

YEARS 

As famed Scottish hotel Gleneagles celebrates its centenary, 

British Travel Journal discovers all that the ‘glorious playground’ has 

to offer, as well as visiting its latest opening – Edinburgh’s hottest 

new hotel, Gleneagles Townhouse 



There are a handful of hotels in the UK that 

have achieved iconic status, and Gleneagles 

is undoubtedly one of them. Located amid the 

beautiful heather-clad hills of Perthshire, the 

Scottish institution marks its centenary in 2024, and while it 

may be world-renowned for its golf, there is so much more to 

this luxurious hotel, as I was to discover. But before I delved 

into to the old, it was time to visit the new… 

In 2022, Gleneagles unveiled a brand-new hotel and it is 

here that my adventure began. Sitting proudly on St Andrew 

Square in the heart of Edinburgh, Gleneagles Townhouse has 

taken up residence in the former Bank of Scotland HQ, and it 

took five years to transform the building into the staggering 

five-star hotel that it is today. 

There are 33 opulent bedrooms in total, all with soft pastel 

colours and a distinctly regal feel. Both a hotel and members' 

club, the historic building is a warren of stunning architectural 

features and chic spaces, serviced by friendly and efficient 

staff. In the basement, there’s a high-tech gym and wellness 

space. But instead I headed for the hotel’s enviable rooftop 

bar, Lamplighters; a wonderfully intimate and stylish spot with 

glorious city views and seriously good cocktails (open to hotel 

guests and members only.). 

Dinner is served downstairs in The Spence (Scottish for 

larder), set within the vast and breathtakingly beautiful former 

banking hall, resplendent with ornate plasterwork, grand 

granite columns and magnificent cupola. Scottish fish and 

game make up the sophisticated food offering; a decadent 

crab crumpet and some hefty Isle of Mull scallops came first, 

followed by the likes of fresh sea trout and venison loin. The 

sleek wooden dessert trolley, with its layers of picture-perfect 

patisseries and tempting cheeses, is not to be missed. 

After an excellent night’s sleep, thanks to the unbelievably 

comfortable bed, a heavenly almond brioche set me up 

perfectly for the journey ahead. Just over an hour’s drive 

through exquisite Scottish countryside later, I approached the 

imposing stone grey facade of The Gleneagles Hotel… 

A charming, kilt-clad team gave me the warmest of 

welcomes as car doors were opened, bags unpacked, and 

the car disappeared, as if by magic. I gently spun through the 

building’s impressive revolving door and felt as though I had 

crossed into a different era. 

From hosting legendary star-studded parties, welcoming 

the biggest names in fashion and design, to historic meetings 


for world leaders, innovators and big thinkers, Gleneagles 

has remained the place to see and be seen for a century. 

When it first opened in 1924, its discerning guests would 

arrive at the hotel’s very own train station, which is still in 

operation today. After its grand opening ball, the hotel was 

described as a ‘Riviera in the Highlands’. A century later, it 

still exudes that same sense of captivating glamour. 

Hospitality group Ennismore took ownership in 2015 

and you can tell; it has introduced chic, modern design style, 

exquisite attention to detail and a splash of playfulness, 

whilst retaining the hotel’s rich heritage. There are 232 

bedrooms and 27 luxurious suites, yet it manages to feel 

intimate and cosy throughout. My spacious, elegant 

bedroom had a sumptuous marble bathroom, picturesque 

views of the Ochil Hills, and a working fireplace that sprung 

to life at the click of a button. However, there was little time 

to idle by the fire – I had much to explore. 

Gleneagles is known as ‘the glorious playground’, and for 

good reason. Guests can enjoy a staggering range of pursuits 

across the sprawling 850-acre estate, including shooting and 

fishing, horse riding, gundog training, off-road driving, lawn 

games and so much more, and of course, globally-famous 

golf. Axe throwing and zip wiring are just two of the more 

modern activities on offer, but instead I was keen to try my 

hand at one of the oldest sports in the world. 

Dating back thousands of years, falconry involves the 

hunting of wild animals (for food) by means of employing a 

trained bird. Over thirty birds of prey live at Gleneagles and 

under the tuition of expert falconer, Steve, I was introduced 

to Comet – a magnificent Harris Hawk – and shown how 

to fly and handle her. I watched in awe as she swooped 

and soared, and the moment she landed powerfully on my 

‘ 

My spacious, elegant bedroom had a sumptuous marble bathroom, picturesque 

views of the Ochil Hills, and a working fireplace that sprung to life at the click of a 

button. However, there was little time to idle by the fire – I had much to explore. 

’ 


arm was completely thrilling. Equally as impressive was Steve’s 

extensive knowledge, warmth, and deep respect for these 

extraordinary birds. 

I quickly realised that this same passion and level of expertise 

is commonplace at Gleneagles. The service across the estate 

was second to none; impressively intuitive, consistently efficient, 

and genuinely heartfelt. Despite the five-star offering, there was 

no hint of stuffiness – the talented team(s) here may deliver a 

world-class experience with pride, but they do it with a gentle 

sense of fun and friendliness. 

After a beautiful cycle ride, I made for the main house 

house, where there are restaurants and bars galore, including a 

two-Michelin-star offering. Lunch was a faultless Caesar salad 

in the relaxed and supremely comfortable Century Bar, which 

also serves terrific cocktails and fun whisky flights. I had dinner 

in The Birnam; the hotel’s laid-back and impossibly romantic 

Italian-American grill where, among tumbling plants and 

twinkling fairy lights, I feasted on juicy prawns, fire-baked with 

garlic and chilli, and a mountain of perfectly crisp vegetable 

fritto. The rich and silky seafood tagliatelle, with sweet Scottish 

lobster and huge scallops, was unforgettably good. 

Another gastronomic highlight is breakfast. Served in the 

dazzling surrounds of The Strathearn, there’s a menu of hot 

dishes (don’t miss the French toast) and a staggering array 

of seemingly endless buffets and food stations, all presented 

beautifully. Smiling, smartly dressed chefs whip up fresh 

omelettes, and there’s a small bar where you can help yourself 

to a Bloody Mary or a glass of chilled fizz. One waiter told me 


‘ 

In contrast, later that evening I donned my glad rags and headed for The 

Strathearn... the grand finale was the restaurant’s renowned crêpe suzette, 

flambéed tableside. The whole delicious experience was positively dreamlike. 

’ 

that some guests spend more than two hours enjoying this 

veritable feast, and it’s easy to see why. 

After a few lengths of the pool in the sleek, recently 

refurbished spa, another adventure called. This time, I 

spent an hour tearing around the Scottish countryside in 

an argocat; an all-terrain semi-amphibious vehicle typically 

used by local landowners for tackling steep and rocky areas. 

Needless to say, it was a fun and exhilarating way to take in 

some of the stunning surrounding scenery 

In contrast, later that evening I donned my glad rags 

and headed for The Strathearn, Gleneagles’ astonishingly 

beautiful fine-dining restaurant – renowned for its history, 

theatrical magic and Art Deco splendour. To the evocative 

soundtrack of a live piano, the Champagne trolley was 

whizzed over to the table and a glistening glass was promptly 

poured. This was followed by caviar blinis, a succulent lobster 

and salmon raviolo, and then Dover sole, expertly filleted on 

a trolley at the table. The grand finale was the restaurant’s 

renowned crêpe suzette, flambéed tableside. The whole 

delicious experience was positively dreamlike. 

The following day, with check-out looming, I found 

solace in the hotel’s luxurious shopping arcade. When it 

was finally time to bid farewell to the glorious playground, I 

felt genuinely sad to be saying goodbye to the place where 

I had been made to feel so welcome. Yes, you can fly a 

hawk, tear around off-road, cycle for miles, eat and drink 

wonderful things, and so much more, but the beating heart 

of Gleneagles is its people, and they are nothing short of 

glorious too. 

And so, as this extraordinary place celebrates such a 

momentous milestone, all I can say is – here’s to the next 100 

years. 

Rates at Gleneagles start from £575 based on two sharing and 

including breakfast, Gleneagles Townhouse starts at £495 per 

room per night; gleneagles.com 


Escape to award-winning Hoar Cross Hall, nestled in the idyllic 

Staffordshire countryside, with an indulgent Spa Stay or Multi-Night Retreat. 

Let our historic Hall host your spacation to remember.

NATURE'S 

Haven 

British Travel Journal enjoys a weekend stay in the secluded sanctuary 

of Silverlake Dorset, an oasis of serene lakes, trails and forest 

Text by Jessica Way 

Imagine waking up to the sound of birds chirping and the 

gentle rustle of leaves as you step out onto your private 

decking, sipping your morning coffee and taking in the 

breathtaking views of the scenic lake and lush greenery. 

At Silverlake, a luxury hidden estate in the heart of Dorset, 

launched by Habitat First – the family-run business behind 

Lower Mill Estate in the Cotswolds – you can do just that. 

Settling into our lakeside home-from-home, aptly named 

The Hideaway, was effortless. Situated on Overton Island, 

we were staying in the resort's newest village (there was some 

construction going on across the water at Shepperd's View and 

Baxter's Rise but it didn't disturb our stay). 

Our environmentally responsible holiday home came with 

its own private parking and electric-vehicle charging point, and 

inside, the decor is a soothing blend of cool, calming colours. 

The spacious open-plan living on the ground floor is the 

showpiece of the house, designed with entertaining in mind. 

An abundance of natural light streams in through the floor-toceiling 

windows and bifold doors. The state-of-the-art kitchen 

is equipped with top-of-the-line appliances, including a stylish 

wine cooler and a dishwasher with a time beam, projecting the 

remaining cycle duration onto the floor (I want one of these!), 

there's a Bluetooth Marshall speaker, and a cosy log burner – 

while upstairs sundecks run the entire width of the house. 

Other properties on the island enjoy waterfront access, 

on-plot canoe stores, and extended decking with frameless 

glass panels that provide an ideal spot to relax and soak in the 

peaceful views and sounds of the surroundings – and all offer 

access to the on-site facilities, such as the spa, watersports hire 

and nature trails. Holiday home ownership starts at £450,000. 


‘ 

Our first evening was spent feasting on wood-fired pizza... and gazing at 

the star constellations twinkling above us in the night sky from our private 

hot tub as we wound down for a good night’s sleep 

’ 

Once unpacked, we delved into our supplies of local Dorset 

produce – artisan cheeses, freshly baked bread, a selection 

of cured meats and charcuterie from The Real Cure Dorset, 

chutney From Dorset with Love, and a bottle of red wine from 

the nearby Langham Estate. It was a lovely touch to also 

discover some sweet treats with a handwritten card welcoming 

us to Silverlake – and we felt ready to start our weekend. 

We took a stroll to explore Beaumont Village and to collect 

some bikes from the Activity Hub (guests have inclusive hire 

of bikes, paddleboards, kayaks and other equipment) and 

stumbled across the Yurt where children were making new 

friends, and families played board games around the logburning 

stove. 

Our first evening was spent feasting on wood-fired 

pizza collected from the Pizza Shack and gazing at the star 

constellations twinkling above us in the night sky from our 

private hot tub as we wound down for a good night’s sleep. 

The next day, keen to explore this flourishing nature 

reserve, we downloaded the Silverlake app, which provides an 


‘ 

With our four-legged companion in tow, we headed for the Knighton Reserve 

on two-wheels and first made a beeline for Pooches Placeess 

’ 

interactive map of the lakeside nature trails and off-site local 

trails around the Dorset countryside (you can also use it for 

essential information, such as seasonal opening times, spa 

treatments and information on booking additional activities). 

With our four-legged companion in tow, we headed for 

the Knighton Reserve on two wheels and first made a beeline 

for Pooches Place, the reserve’s new dog-friendly swimming 

area. As we took the path that led us around the lakes, we felt 


a sense of serenity – though we had missed the morning otters, 

the birds that surrounded us were a vision of loveliness. 

We eventually stopped at the Waterhole, a picturesque 

spot that allowed us to take a breather while admiring the 

colourful dragonfly and damselfly. It was there that we met the 

friendly park ranger, who pointed out the beautiful emperor 

dragonfly and shared that there were over 150 species of birds 

at Silverlake. Some of the birds to look out for include the 

Dartford warbler and stonechat, often seen flying together, 

Starling and Beaumont Lakes in autumn. In fact, Starling Lake 

is named after these fantastic murmurations, making it an 

ideal spot to birdwatch all year-round. As we were on a former 

quarry, it was not long before we came across a type 22 pillbox 

military bunker (with a replica Bren gun) constructed during 

the early years of WWII as a lookout post to guard Portland 

and defend the then RAF Warmwell Airfield. Next we stumbled 

across a great viewing point, where we could see down across 

Outer Heath and the Fishing Lake. 

We crossed paths with a group of families whose kids were 

excitedly exploring the Dormouse Adventure Trail (there's five 

wildlife points for them to find throughout the estate) – a route 

we discovered leads to The Island – a fun play area with a wooden 

fortress, rope swings, and a zip wire that goes over an eco-pool. 

along with shoveler, gadwall, tufted duck, grey heron, little 

egret, little grebe, great crested grebe, green woodpecker 

and buzzard. The ranger also regaled us with stories about 

the incredible starling murmurations that take place over 


Following signs back towards the village, we passed the 

fishing hut and jetty at Otter Lake. Seasoned anglers can cast 

off and fish to their heart’s content here; the lake is home to 

carp, tench, bream and roach, and exclusive for Silverlake 

guests only. 

After a morning of cycling, I decided to take a break 

and relax at the Hurricane Spa, named after the Hawker 

Hurricane aircraft stationed there during the Second World 

War. While I enjoyed the heated outdoor swimming pool and 

glided through its lengths, my husband and daughters had a 

great time stand-up paddleboarding on the Beaumont Lake, 

enjoying the serene surroundings. 

I couldn't resist the opportunity to try the holistic wellness 

GAIA treatments, which were truly tempting. If I had more 

time, I would have definitely booked a Crystal Therapy 

treatment or a Mud Cocoon. 

We met afterwards at the Hurricane Terrace, a picturesque 

bistro with views of the lake, the outdoor swimming pool, and 

tennis courts. The bistro serves light snacks, Rolly's Brownies, 

Purbeck Ice Cream, locally sourced wines, gins, beers and 

more. It was a great place to grab a quick bite and sip on 

smoothies or hot chocolates. (The Firefly restaurant with an 

open-plan kitchen and bar is set to open soon.) 

The following morning, I braved a cold-water immersion in 

Beaumont Lake from the sandy shore before warming up again 

in the poolside sauna. My daughters enjoyed a workout in the 

state-of-the-art gym while my husband and I enjoyed a drink on 

the terrace. I chatted with Aileen Ross, who has a holiday home 

IMAGES © OLLIE JONES 


‘ 

During our drive back home, I couldn't help but reflect on how rejuvenating 

it felt to spend time in nature. Silverlake provided us with the perfect getaway 

to unwind and reconnect with the great outdoors 

’ 

at the retreat, and runs Silverlake’s Pilates and yoga retreats 

– breath work and yoga classes combined with campfires and 

stargazing, sea dips and saunas, hot stone massages, nature 

walks and nutrition demonstrations. They sound heavenly, and 

so I jotted down the dates for her upcoming Summer Solstice 

Pilates and Wellbeing Retreat (21 – 23 June). 

Silverlake is conveniently located just 2.5 hours from London 

and 10 minutes from the coast, making it an ideal base to explore 

the area. The pebble beaches at Ringstead are just over five miles 

away, while the Blue Flag beaches at Sandbanks, the fossil-filled 

cliffs of Lyme Regis and the UNESCO World Heritage Jurassic 

Coast are all within easy reach. 

In addition to the nearby beaches, there are historic 

towns and unspoilt countryside to discover. Dorchester, 

known as Thomas Hardy’s town, is perfect for a leisurely day 

exploring independent boutiques, bars, and restaurants. 

Nearby Moreton Forest offers scenic walks, while art lovers 

can enjoy Sculpture by the Lakes. For those who enjoy coastal 

walks, the Jurassic coastline offers stunning clifftop hikes and 

shorefront strolls in search of fossils, with famous spots including 

Lulworth Cove and Durdle Door. History buffs can explore 

Dorset’s rich heritage, including ancient ruins like Corfe Castle, 

and the town of Lyme Regis, famous for its dramatic Cobb and 

as the home of Thomas Hardy. 

During our drive back home, I couldn't help but reflect 

on how rejuvenating it felt to spend time in nature. Silverlake 

provided us with the perfect getaway to unwind and reconnect 

with the great outdoors, leaving us with memories we'll cherish 

forever. I'm excited to see what other exciting projects Habitat 

First have in store for us in the future! 

Silverlake holidays from £90 per person for a two-night break. 

Lakeside and hot-tub cottages are available from £117pp for a twonight 

break; silverlakedorset.com 


Going 

Rogan 

British Travel Journal embarks on an unforgettable foodie tour of Simon 

Rogan’s farm and acclaimed field-to-fork restaurants in the Lake District, 

where sustainability, seasonality and world-class culinary innovation 

combine in delicious harmony 

72 BritishTravelJournal.com 

Text by Sophie Farrah

As a self-confessed food fanatic (read: glutton), 

I nearly always plan my holidays around what 

I’m going to eat when I get there. I’ve driven 

to deepest Cornwall to feast on fresh seafood, 

travelled miles across Scotland for a specific scoop of ice 

cream, and spent a week in Somerset eating my body 

weight in cheese, but there is one gastronomic pilgrimage in 

particular that has been on my list for quite some time… 

Today, food lovers flock to the Lake District not only 

for the beautiful scenery, but for a taste of Simon Rogan’s 

famous farm-to-fork philosophy. One of the most celebrated 

chefs in the world and recently awarded an MBE for 

services to the food industry, Rogan is passionate about 

the relationship between food and nature and has built an 

epicurean empire based on this ethos in and around the 

small Cumbrian village of Cartmel. Here, he owns a 12-acre 

farm and a handful of acclaimed restaurants, including the 

legendary L’Enclume; the only three Michelin star restaurant 

in the North of England, and one of only eight in the UK. It 

also holds a Green Michelin Star for its rigorous approach to 

sustainability. 

My first port of call was Henrock, Simon Rogan’s relaxed 

and informal restaurant at Linthwaite House; a luxurious 

country house hotel near the small town of Bowness-on- 

Windermere. I checked into a sumptuous bedroom with a 

huge egg-shaped bath and beautiful views of sculpturedotted 

gardens and Windermere's twinkling waters. My first 

taste of Rogan’s philosophy came downstairs in the chic, 

art-filled bar, where even the cocktail menu is eco-conscious. 

I ordered a pina colada – made using locally foraged gorse 

flowers known for their coconutty flavour, and topped with 

a creamy gorse foam. It was ingenious, delicious, and with 

minimal air miles to boot. 

The menu at Henrock is inspired by flavours and 

techniques discovered by Rogan and his team on their travels, 

reimagined using the very best local ingredients, including 

produce from Rogan’s own farm, Our Farm, just a few miles 

away. Each course was carefully presented at the table by a 

team of friendly and efficient staff. A fiendishly fluffy Parker 

House roll inspired by a trip to Boston came first, followed by 

a blitz of extraordinary flavours that celebrated fish, farm, 

and field and demonstrated an array of extraordinary cooking 

techniques. Highlights included zingy slices of pickled mooli 

and buttery fermented cabbage, and a crisp mussel cracker 

dotted with sea buckthorn purée and microscopic leaves that 

packed a punch, despite their tiny size. It was all absolutely 

delicious, from start to finish. 


‘ 

I sat overlooking a trickling stream and sipped on a nasturtium negroni 

accompanied by a selection of picture-perfect ‘snacks’, which included a 

bite-sized chunk of ‘truffle pudding’ – luscious layers of croissant and truffle 

custard. I could have eaten ten. 

’ 

The following day, I made the picturesque 30-minute 

drive to Cartmel – a chocolate-box scene of characterful 

winding streets, higgledy-piggledy walls, and rose-strewn 

cottages. Rogan has 16 extremely comfortable bedrooms 

and suites dotted around the village. I checked into a 

beautiful Superior Room with a rustic beamed ceiling and 

plenty of soothing natural materials, plus a luxurious roll-top 

bath and French doors that overlooked a small courtyard 

and sprawling fig tree. 

Soon it was time for lunch next door at Rogan & Co 

which, despite its one Michelin star, has a reassuringly 

relaxed neighbourhood feel. After a warm welcome, I sat 

overlooking a trickling stream and sipped on a nasturtium 

negroni accompanied by a selection of picture-perfect 

‘snacks’, which included a bite-sized chunk of ‘truffle 

pudding’ – luscious layers of croissant and truffle custard. I 

could have eaten ten. 

The cosy atmosphere here is reflected in the comforting 

menu. My starter – a bowl of Our Farm heritage tomatoes 

(some fresh, others dehydrated and semi- dehydrated) with 

smoked egg yolk, sourdough crisp and a variety of cress – 

tasted like a sun-kissed vegetable patch on a balmy summer’s 

day. Dessert was another highlight – a featherlight sponge 

cake topped with juicy cherries and velvety woodruff ice 

cream, expertly paired with a glass of plum-infused sake. 

After lunch, I made a beeline for Our Farm, just minutes 

outside Cartmel, which guests can visit during the spring 

and summer months. Here, Rogan and his team grow 

near-perfect produce in a natural and sustainable way. 

Growers and chefs work side-by-side; the farm essentially 

an extension of the kitchen(s). No chemicals are used, and 

what is produced –depending on the rhythms of the seasons 

–determines all of Rogan’s menus. 


Charismatic head farmer John Rowland showed me 

around, and I was quickly in awe of his deep and intrinsic 

understanding of the natural world. Together, we explored 

rows of flourishing vegetables and leafy plants, polytunnels 

filled with delicate microherbs, a fleet of state-of-the-art 

composters, and more. I left with a deep admiration for 

Rogan’s gastronomic vision, and the realisation that Our 

Farm is at its very core. 

The jewel in Rogan’s Cumbrian crown is the multi-awardwinning 

L’Enclume, and later that evening I arrived at its 

surprisingly unassuming front door. 

Opened in 2002 and located in a former 13th-century 

blacksmith workshop, this now world-famous 50-seater 

restaurant still has the original anvil at its centre (L’Enclume 

means ‘the anvil’ in French). I passed through the rustic, lowceilinged 

dining room and out into a small conservatory, where 

generously spaced tables offer views of both the pretty cottage 

garden and the small, busy kitchen. 

Over the next four hours, a staggering 17 courses arrived, 

each one a flavour-filled masterclass in creativity, impeccable 

precision, and mind-boggling technique. Highlights included 

a small pot of gently set seaweed custard topped with a rich 


eef broth, a generous dollop of caviar and poached Maldon 

oyster; a crisp fritter of smoked eel with lovage emulsion 

dotted with fermented sweetcorn and perfectly miniature 

leaves; and a bowl of frozen Tunworth cheese mixed with 

a dark malt crumb and topped with tiny ‘droplets’ of 

caramelised lemon thyme. I could go on (and on). 

The evening ended with an array of stunning sweet 

treats, including a ceramic pouch filled with fruity sweetness 

and brimming with a medley of herbs and colourful flowers. 

The pleasingly chilled Kendall mint pebbles were another 

unforgettable delight, as was the famous ‘Anvil’ caramel 

mousse, with miso, apple, and spruce. 

Despite the level of quality on offer at L’Enclume, there 

is not a starched tablecloth in sight. There is no dress code 

or unnecessary formality. Instead, it has a laid-back feel, 

and it thrums with the excitement of everybody there. Staff, 

who move around the space in exquisite synchronicity, 

are friendly, sociable, and supremely efficient, and their 

enthusiasm and knowledge make the whole experience all 

the more enjoyable. 

I woke up the next day profoundly disappointed that it 

was all over, but thankfully another remarkable dish was yet 

to come. Breakfast is served at at Rogan & Co, and amid an 

assortment of devilled eggs and thick rashers of local bacon, 

came a small stone bowl of creamy porridge, topped with a 

crisp layer of caramelised sugar, and generously laced with 

whisky. It was a suitable end to my incredibly delectable stay. 

As I digested – both figuratively and literally – on 

the journey home, I considered why this trip has become 

something of a pilgrimage for so many. Yes, it’s set in an 

incredibly beautiful part of the world and both the culinary 

innovation and superb service are of the very highest level, but 

in a world where there is so much distance between what we 

eat and where it is grown, the sense of place found in Rogan’s 

restaurants – a product of the genuine, symbiotic relationship 

that he has created between farm and fork – is totally unique 

and incredibly special, not to mention extremely delicious. 

Today, many chefs refer to seasonality and sustainability, 

but what Rogan and his extraordinary team have created 

in the Lake District is the real deal. This is one epicurean 

adventure not to be missed. 

Rooms at Linthwaite House start at £260. Simon Rogan’s 

rooms in Cartmel start at £270 and include breakfast at Rogan & 

Co, and guarantee a table reservation at L’Enclume. 

IMAGES © NINA K CLARIDGE / CHRISTIAN BARNETT / ADOBE STOCK / PHILIP OPENSHAW 


SeaSoned to Perfection 

British getaways inspired by provenance and local bounty. 

Discover inventive dining and exceptional regional ingredients. 

pobhotels.com

WHERE THE 

wild things are 

British Travel Journal switches off at Elmley – the only National Nature Reserve 

in the country where you can spend the night – as it celebrates ten years of its 

stunning, nature-immersed cabins and unique wildlife experiences 


wildlife significance. Their daughter and son-in-law, Georgina 

and Gareth, moved back to the estate in 2013; captivated by its 

vast skies and teeming wildlife, they set about creating sensitive 

and stylish on-site accommodation that would allow visitors 

to experience both dawn and dusk in comfort, and in doing so 

they became early glamping pioneers. 

I first visited not long after Elmley opened its gates to 

overnight guests. Back then, there were just three shepherd’s 

huts. Ten years later, those same lovely huts have been joined 

by several custom-made cabins, as well as Elmley Cottage, 

which sleeps 10, and Kingshill Farmhouse, a beautifully 

renovated 18th-century farmhouse that sleeps 14. 

There aren’t many places in the UK, let alone the 

world, where you can lie in bed and watch owls 

hunt for their supper, go on a 4x4 safari across 

miles of unspoilt marshland, and unwind in a 

huge outdoor bathtub while curious hares go hopping past. 

Located on the south coast of the Isle of Sheppey off the 

northern coast of Kent, where the Thames Estuary opens 

out into the North Sea, Elmley is the only National Nature 

Reserve in the country where you can spend the night. 

This whopping 3,300-acre estate was taken on by farmers 

Philip and Corinne Merricks 40 years ago, and they have 

worked tirelessly to restore biodiversity on the marshes by 

transforming a once intensive farm into a site of international 


Georgina and Gareth now have a small team, but 

they remain friendly, hands-on hosts, and all of their 

accommodation offers sweeping views across the reserve 

and a guest experience that is totally unique, peaceful, and 

truly immersed in nature. Better yet – once day visitors have 

gone home, overnight guests have private access to the entire 

reserve, which includes miles of nature trails, a wild swimming 

pond, and an idyllic private beach. 

Elmley may be just 40 miles from London, yet it feels a 

world away. The farm itself is a two-mile drive from the main 

road, so there are few places more remote. There is a clear 

juxtaposition in the landscape here; in one direction, local 

industry has created a skyline dotted with factory buildings 

and billowing chimneys, and in the other, unspoilt beauty 

as far as the eye can see. There are miles and miles of flat 

farmland dotted with Romney sheep, intermingled with salt 

marshes and glistening waterways that gently snake through 

the swaying grass. The sky is so huge that’s it’s almost hard 

for the brain to compute, and there are birds everywhere; 

waders busily peck around in the shallows as huge birds of 

prey swoop overhead, looking for their next snack. 

I checked in and set off to find my lodgings for the 

night. Named after the ferryman's hut that used to sit 

in the same spot for staff to watch over the Elmley ferry 

crossing (when there was one), The Ferryman’s is a stunning 

custom-built ‘hut’ that has everything one might need, and 

more. Following a recent refresh, the stylish interiors are a 

pleasing mix of soft, serene yellows, reclaimed wood, elegant 

patterns, and cosy natural fabrics. Among the vintage 

bird-watching books and woolly hot-water bottles, there’s 

a small kitchenette and bijou bathroom complete with 

flushing toilet, shower, fluffy towels, bathrobes, and luxurious 

nature-powered products. An eye-height window in the 

shower ensures nature connection, even while washing, and 


although Elmley is off-grid it generates its own power using 

solar panels, biofuel and huge batteries, so there’s plenty of 

hot water and electricity. 

But the cosy cabin’s most impressive feature is found 

at the foot of the king-size bed; a floor-to-ceiling glass wall 

that can be folded back to offer full immersion in the great 

outdoors. From here, I watched two majestic short-eared 

owls soaring through the sky hunting for their supper at dusk; 

and in the morning, I was awoken by the most spectacular 

sunrise that turned the sky a marshmallow-y pink. 

shower. What better way to start the day? From both inside 

and out, the far-reaching views across the reserve are 

staggering, as is the peace and quiet. 

Speaking of marshmallows – a healthy supply is provided 

for toasting over the firepit on the cabin’s private terrace, 

which is also home to a huge roll-top bathtub and an outdoor 

There are several ways to explore the estate; you can set 

off on foot, armed with a map and a picnic, which Elmley 

can provide, or join an expert-led walking tour or wildlife 

experience. I plumped for an off-road adventure in the 

estate’s open-top Land Rover. I clambered into the back and 

was given a pair of binoculars and a woollen blanket, just in 

case. The reserve is home to over 80 species of bird, as well as 

water voles, frogs, butterflies, dragonflies, hares and more. 

Over the next two hours, reserve warden and tour leader, 

Simon, drove us miles across the big-sky estate, pointing 


‘ 

With my feet back on solid ground, I passed Elmley’s beautifully converted 

Victorian barn... thanks to a careful level of laid-back luxury, it’s less 

campsite and more glampsite, authentically shaped by nature 

’ 

out various things along the way, and sharing just a few of 

Elmley’s conservation success stories. 

Now, I wouldn’t describe myself as a bird-watcher, 

but armed with my borrowed ‘bins’ (twitcher lingo for 

binoculars), I quickly became both fascinated and thrilled 

by Elmley’s array of beautiful birdlife. From the back of the 

truck, we spotted flocks of wigeon, lapwing and starlings, 

oystercatchers, redshank, brent geese, and more, as well as 

several huge marsh harriers, out hunting for prey. 

With my feet back on solid ground, I passed Elmley’s 

beautifully converted Victorian barn (used for weddings 

and events) and made my way to The Linhay – a cosy, 

communal space and small honesty shop for guests, where 

I helped myself to a cup of tea and curled up on a sofa by 

the crackling wood burner. There’s more seating dotted 

around outside, interspersed with flower-filled planters, 

firepits and pretty festoon lighting. Much like the huts, it’s 

all very tastefully designed, but not overly so. Thanks to a 

careful level of laid-back luxury, it’s less campsite and more 

glampsite, authentically shaped by nature. 

As a busy working farm and National Nature Reserve, 

the offering at Elmley is one of peace and relaxation, and 

perhaps not for those who would prefer the full concierge 

services of a hotel. There is no restaurant; instead, hot, 

home-cooked meals can be delivered to your hut, which is a 

treat in itself. I had a delicious roast vegetable cassoulet with 

salad, crusty bread, and a big glass of organic red wine, all in 

the comfort of my cosy cabin. For pudding, there was a silky 

slice of burnt Basque cheesecake with fresh fruit. I quickly 

drifted off to the sound of owls hooting in the night, with the 

curtains left wide open, ready for sunrise… 

The following day started with a long hot soak in the 

alfresco tub, completely immersed in beautiful birdsong and 

the occasional ‘baa’ of the nearby sheep. From the bath, I 


watched as two small hares chased each other through the 

grass, and marvelled as silvery flashes of dunlins swooped 

overhead. Just when I thought the morning couldn’t get 

much better, breakfast arrived; a bountiful bag filled with 

homemade granola, warm croissants, Kentish apple juice, 

smashed peas on toast, and more. 

Before re-entering the real world, I had one more uniquely 

‘Elmley’ experience to enjoy. Past reed-filled ponds and 

preening ducks, I found Swale Studio; a small cottage recently 

transformed into Elmley's new wellbeing space. Here, in 

partnership with award-winning natural brands Votary and 

Verden, there’s a selection of blissful treatments on offer. 

The Elmley Signature is a deeply grounding combination of 

deep-tissue massage and a nourishing facial. I floated out two 

hours later and spent the rest of the day strolling around the 

reserve, absorbed in the wildlife. Just before I left, I spotted two 

more short-eared owls swooping in the breeze. 

In the ten years since Georgina and Gareth opened 

their very first shepherd’s huts, the world may have changed 

exponentially, but I am pleased to say that this incredibly 

special place hasn’t. There may be a few more cabins, cottages, 

and carefully curated experiences to enjoy, but Elmley is just as 

peaceful and beautiful as it ever was, if not even more so. 

Accommodation at Elmley includes eight huts/cabins, a small 

number of bell tents in the warmer months (May–September), 

Elmley Cottage (sleeps 10) and Kingshill Farmhouse (sleeps 12). 

Prices start at £155 per night, room only; elmleynaturereserve.co.uk 

IMAGES © ROBERT CANIS / REBECCA DOUGLAS PHOTOGRAPHY 



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THE TINY ISLAND 

WITH A 

Big Spirit 

British Travel Journal spends a blissful 48 hours on Herm: an unspoilt 

island retreat in the Channel Islands. Abundant with wildlife, flowers 

and tranquil beaches, Herm is a natural sanctuary for wellness, with 

coastal footpaths, twinkling sea views, dark skies and exquisite sunsets 

Text by Jessica Way 

Herm might be the smallest of the Channel Islands, 

yet it holds within its stunning scenery, natural 

beauty, and rich history, a huge spirit that is bound 

to captivate anyone who sets foot on its seemingly 

untouched pristine beaches and scenic trails. 

Herm has no cars, bikes or cats, perfect for our two-yearold 

Spanadoor Poppy, who seemed every bit as excited as we 

were to explore the miniature island – just a mile-and-a-half 

long by less than half-a-mile wide. It's so small that, depending 

on the tides and sea levels, the overall land mass fluctuates by 

around 25%. Tide times are also important for the local oyster 

farmers, whose farming site is on Herm’s Fisherman’s Beach. 

It is here that they grow Guernsey and Herm Oysters, 

available to sample across the island or they can be freshly 

delivered to your cottage. During special weekends at Shell 

Beach you can order from a specific Herm Oysters menu and 

watch as the oysters are shucked 'sea-to-fork’ style for you. 

Or, you can book a day on the farm to learn firsthand 

from the master mermmeliers about how the oysters are 

grown, raised and harvested, before joining the talented 

chefs at the White House Hotel (the island’s only hotel), who 

prepare your oysters for tastings, and show you a selection of 

recipes and serving suggestions. 

The White House is an enchanting Grade-II-listed 

building that dates back to the 1800s. Several spacious 

settees on the lawn are perfectly placed amid the towering 

palm trees and vibrant flower borders of the Britain in Bloom 

Gold Award-winning gardens, with sights of the harbour and 

spectacular sea views. 

Feeling the gentle breeze on your skin and breathing in 

the sweet scents of the flowers brings a sense of peacefulness 

and calmness to the soul. On arrival our teenage daughters, 

Holly and Daisy, were quick to spot the tennis courts and 


‘ 

Feeling the gentle breeze on your skin and breathing in the sweet scents of 

the flowers brings a sense of peacefulness and calmness to the soul. 

’ 

eager for a game. We left them to thrash it out on court and 

jumped in a John Deere 4-seater Gator with Craig Senior, the 

island’s CEO, to explore more of this treasured destination. 

It was a beautiful afternoon, and we felt we had arrived in 

paradise. Craig waved at a group of friendly locals enjoying 

a drink by the harbour as their children enjoyed jumping 

into the sea from the harbour wall. We placed our bags 

in our holiday cottage, Sea Holly, and picked up Harvey, 

Craig’s Sproodle (and forever best friend), before heading to 

Mouisonniere Beach on the island’s north coast. 

Poppy and Harvey teared it up along the pristine white 

sands that span the entire length of Herm’s north coast 

between Alderney Point and Oyster Rocks. Not many 

visitors cross the common or traverse the coastline to reach 

Mouisonniere, choosing to visit the beaches with cafes instead 

– so you can’t beat it for peace and tranquillity. Other than one 

other dog-walker, we had the entire beach to ourselves. 

Craig shared his story and passion for the island. Having 

moved to Herm with his family in November 2019, he swapped 

his high-pressured job in London (where he was accountable 

for 30 golf and leisure clubs) for his high-spirited commitment 

to Herm’s 70 residents, 100 or so additional seasonal staff, and 

up to 100,000 tourists who visit the island each year. 


Craig’s new purpose is financially supported and actively 

encouraged by John and Julia Singer, the current owners of 

Herm. It's a place that's special to the Singers, having had 

their first date on Herm in the mid-'90s. They relocated from 

Guernsey in 2008, following the purchase of the remaining 

40-year lease (funded by the charitable trust Starboard 

Settlement; agreed with the States of Guernsey, who act as 

the landlord). They've harboured a deep love for the island 

ever since. And it is easy to see why. Given the peacefulness, 

the birds, the sea life, and the remote location, it takes less 

than a few hours on the island to feel there’s something rather 

magical about Herm. 

Craig took us next to St Tugual’s Chapel – one of the 

oldest buildings on the island, dating back to the 11th century. 

The chapel is named after St Tugual, a Welsh monk who lived 

in the 6th century and was known for his wisdom and healing 

powers. 

““It is about striking the right balance,” Craig told us. 

“Staying sympathetic to the island’s history and culture while 

accepting that it needs to move into the 21st century.” 

Four years after moving to the island with his family, 

Craig and his wife Emma tied the knot at the chapel – their 


two daughters as bridesmaids and Harvey (the dog) as 

ring-bearer. Craig’s pace of life might have slowed down 

considerably since resettling in Herm; nonetheless, even 

throughout the pandemic, he never really stopped. One of his 

biggest projects has been upgrading the island’s boilers and 

converting them to biodiesel – along with lots of construction 

projects, refurbishments and decorating. 

Craig showed us the brand new decking and viewing 

platform at the top of Harbour Hill – a labour of love 

completed by his team during the COVID-19 lockdown, 

together with a new nature trail with photographic 

information boards dotted around the island (and quiz sheets 

available for the children). Poppy and Harvey led the way to 

the reinvented Zen Garden (formerly a granite quarry) and 

winner of this year’s RHS Community Awards, planted with 

Japanese cherry trees, cloud trees, and Japanese maples. This 

is the place to come when you want to escape it all, found at 

the top of the island’s Valley Garden. 

We took a short detour to see the village primary school 

with just one room, one teacher, and four children. I noticed 

the sign: 'Free range children, please shut the gate'. Down the 

lane, there’s another amusing notice: 'Do not cross this field... 

unless you can do it in 9 seconds because the bull can do it in 

10 seconds.' 

Following a quick tour of Herm’s two campsites, Seagull 

and Mermaid and the recently renovated self-catering 

cottages, Rosaire and Lower Belvoir, we retreated to a snug 

corner at The Ship Inn (adjoined to The White House Hotel), 

where we reunited with Holly and Daisy. 

Sitting by an open fire, we enjoyed Herm Berry mocktails 

and pints of Herm Island Gold. Having spotted Herm Gin on 

the menu – made from locally sourced botanicals, including 

lemon balm, rosemary, wild rose and yarrow flower – I 

quizzed Craig about foraging on the island. He told me about 

a local tour guide and horticulturalist (Malcolm Cleal) who 

takes small groups on walking and foraging adventures along 

the shoreline and inland – a great way to discover more about 

Herm’s flora and fauna and what’s edible and useful. 


‘ 

James finished the session by challenging us with a demonstration of 

how to do a headstand on the kayaks – my younger daughter Daisy 

managed it while the rest of us fell quickly overboard trying. 

’ 

There are lots of other activities around the island, too, 

including guided walks and challenges, such as the Herm 

Three Peak Challenge and a 10km stand-up paddleboard 

race. The White House Hotel hosts gin tasting with Herm’s 

own gin expert, holds special Murder Mystery weekends, 

has planetarium shows in their outdoor marquee, as well 

as circus performances, magic and fire shows for the kids. 

Other activities for guests include swimming (there’s a heated 

outdoor pool), tennis, fishing, hiking, snorkelling and Hula 

Hoop golf. 

The Mermaid Tavern (the island’s other pub) is at the 

heart of the twilight entertainment with Rocking Bingo, 

tribute bands, two Craft Ale and Cider Festival Weeks (June 

and September) and Rock n Roast Sundays. 

After enjoying a delicious seafood linguine at The Ship, 

we walked back to the cottage, admiring the cosmic twinkling 

stars on the way. We rested, preparing for a weekend's selfexploration 

of this extraordinary island. 

As a family who love running (our ritual on a Saturday 

morning is usually to run or volunteer at a local parkrun), 

and now happily stranded on the island, we decided to 

run our way around its cliff paths. We took a few moments 

to stop and pinch ourselves over the views – it is hard to 

believe we were still in the UK. Reaching the top of the 

hill at Grande Monceau on the north coast was especially 

spectacular – the views of the azure waters sparkle in 

contrast to the glowing white sands of Shell Beach. Over 

in the opposite corner of the island, the clifftops on the 

southeast offer breathtaking views of France, Jersey, 

Guernsey, Sark and Alderney. 

Later that day, we enjoyed a kayaking trip with Outdoor 

Guernsey and were delighted to see James again – our 

adventure guide from coasteering in Herm a couple of 

years previously. We were impressed he remembered us 

– my husband’s attempt at a forward flip was, after all, 

unforgettable, he reminded us! 


We spent a wonderful afternoon paddling on the calm 

turquoise sea from Shell Beach to the south, passing Belvoir 

Bay. We were lucky enough to catch glimpses of seals 

basking on the rocks and to see the puffins – who return to 

the cliffs of Herm each year to raise their offspring – resting 

on the tops of the waves at Puffin Bay. James finished the 

session by challenging us with a demonstration of how to 

do a headstand on the kayaks – my younger daughter Daisy 

managed it while the rest of us fell quickly overboard trying! 

That evening, we dined at The Conservatory Restaurant, 

located within The White House Hotel. Starters included 

melt-in-the-mouth beef carpaccio, freshly caught crab bon 

bon and flambeed wild mushrooms with toasted sourdough, 

fried quail egg and crispy pancetta. 

The pan-seared lamb rump was cooked to perfection, 

and the combination of flavours from the chorizo ratatouille, 

fondant potato and lamb jus was simply divine. We shared a 

delicious salted caramel cheesecake with chocolate macaron 

and honeycomb-salted caramel sauce for dessert. 

The next day, we woke up early for an unmissable sunrise 

swim at Belvoir Bay – and had the entire beach to ourselves. 

We swam across to Caquorobert, where we clambered 

the rock pools before diving safely off the rocks and racing 

back to the beach. The smell of freshly baked croissants and 

roasting coffee steered us to the beach cafe (their homemade 

chocolate brownies were also utterly delicious). 

We wandered the village shop, admiring the souvenirs, 

clothing, and locally made crafts. We bought some handmade 

Herm jewellery and a beautiful puffin-printed scarf. 

At the food- and ice-cream parlour, lobster and charcuterie 

platters were on the specials board. 

We chose to enjoy lunch at the Mermaid Tavern – 

relishing a delicious feast of traditional British fare and 

seafood caught in the surrounding waters. The focus on 

locally sourced produce was evident, and we savoured the 

flavours of the island: Herm oysters and mussels, followed 

by baked whole plaice with new potatoes and seasonal 

vegetables and seafood linguine. 

We went for a hike along the island's cliff paths and 

explored more of its landscape. Herm has a diverse tapestry 

of natural wonders, with bluebell drifts dotting the rolling 


hillsides and majestic kestrels soaring high above the craggy 

cliffs. Eucalyptus thickets provided a fragrant respite, and 

gorse plateaux offered bursts of vibrant colour, and hulking 

sea stacks stood proudly against the endless horizon. 

Poppy helped us to discover some newly cleared 

pathways behind the hotel, leading to Princess Radziwill’s 

Walk and a secret hidden spot with a bench from which to sit 

and enjoy the sea views. We also sniffed out the island’s old 

jail – a claim to fame for Herm as the smallest prison in the 

world (it only fits one person!) 

On our final evening we attended a VIP Herm Beach 

Party at Shell Beach – a gourmet BBQ, with DJs Leon 

Robertson, Tom Brock and Jay Allen playing dance classics 

and chill-out house. The beach gets its name from the 

millions of tiny shells that have been washed up by the Gulf 

Stream. We feasted on gourmet burgers, locally caught fish, 

charred corn on the cob and a selection of breads and salads 

to the soundtrack of the set and the waves. 

As we strolled back to our cottage, the enchanting aura 

of Herm Island captivated us even more, amplified by the 

most beautiful sunset. The island’s magic had enveloped us 

completely. Herm is a special gem in the Channel Islands, 

and the next morning we departed from Rosaire Steps 

feeling refreshed and reinvigorated, inspired by the island’s 

breathtaking natural beauty, warmhearted locals, rich 

history, and the endless opportunities for exciting outdoor 

adventures. 

Jessica and her family stayed in one of the four recently 

refurbished Sea Cottages in Manor Village, prices from £312 

for three nights in a one-bed cottage in low season to £2,471 

for seven nights in a premium three-bed cottage in high season. 

Condor Ferries operate fast and traditional ferries from Poole and 

Portsmouth to Guernsey year-round, taking from just three hours. 

Ferries depart from Guernsey’s St Peter Port to Sark, Alderney, 

and Herm at multiple times throughout the day during the 

summer. Travel Trident interisland ferry departs from Guernsey’s 

St Peter Port Harbour to Herm year-round, and at multiple times 

throughout the day during the summer. Flights direct to Guernsey 

operate from most UK airport hubs; aurigny.com. 

To find out more visit herm.com 

IMAGES © JESSICA WAY'S OWN / GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCKPHOTO 


stay explore experience 

Immerse yourself in Exeter’s 2,000 years of history making the most of your stay in 

this beautiful city. Indulge in the best of Devon’s food and drink and experience the 

city’s many unique highlights through its diverse and remarkable cultural scene. 

www.visitexeter.com

Sublime 

SUITES 

Far more than simply a room with 

a view, discover the sublime suites 

to suit your passions, from historic 

castle keeps to literary city chambers 

and resplendent spa lodges 

Text by Chantal Haines 

1BEST FOR TRENDSETTERS 

Estelle Suite at Estelle Manor 

The Oxfordshire members' club – and country outpost 

of Mayfair’s Maison Estelle – opened to rave reviews 

last year and offers an alluring mix of Cotswold country 

chic, Downton Abbey-esque opulence, late-night drinking 

snugs, glam restaurants and a 25m Riviera-inspired terraced 

swimming pool for hazy summer days. The Grade-II-listed 

manor house’s premier suite is named in homage to the 

hotel’s muse, Lady Estelle, the ultimate host. Guests can 

revel in the spectacular country views from their 18 sq metre 

private balcony, which overlooks the manor’s stunning south 

terrace, before retiring to their sumptuous emperor king-size 

four-poster bed. Sophisticated yet lavish, the Estelle Suite 

also features a large freestanding bath, an inviting seating 

area with silk-upholstered sofas, velvet club chairs and 

antique oriental rugs. 

With Estelle Manor’s clubhouse, exceptional gym space 

and new astonishing 3,000 sq metre Roman-inspired 

Eynsham Baths spa – not to mention the 60 acres of 

mesmerising parkland – the It-girl of the Cotswold hotel 

scene is still hot to trot. 

Room rates from £400, The Estelle Suite with balcony starts 

from £2,800 per night; estellemanor.com 


2 

BEST FOR HISTORIANS 

The Royal Chamber at Hedingham Castle 

Step back in time at Hedingham Castle – one of 

the oldest and best-preserved Norman keeps in 

Britain – where guests really can sleep like royalty. Located 

on the top floor of the 900-year-old keep, the newly opened 

Royal Chamber has beamed ceilings, richly woven tapestries 

adorning its ancient stone walls and incredible views of the 

rolling Essex countryside and Hedingham Estate. 

The chamber’s opulent four-poster bed is carved from 

solid wood and inspired by the Great Bed of Ware, one of 

the V&A’s greatest treasures and famously over three metres 

wide. While the keep is brimming with original features, 

modern luxuries are also not amiss. A huge carved cabinet at 

the foot of the grand bed cleverly conceals a luxuriously deep 

bath – and a coat of arms on the wall opens at the push of a 

button to reveal a large flatscreen TV. 

A treasured experience for history buffs, the Royal 

Chamber is the only accommodation in the keep, making it 

one of the most exclusive historic bookable residences in the 

country. 

Guests can take a private tour of the castle, exploring the 

ancient defences and picturesque estate before feasting like 

kings with a private five-course tasting menu in the castle’s 

banqueting hall. One unexpected attraction is the castle’s 

immersive escape-room experience, which is open to the 

public and set inside Hedingham Castle. Visitors will find 

clues and need to solve puzzles to escape. 

The Royal Chamber starts from £495 per night, including a 

bottle of Champagne, chocolates and a continental breakfast for 

two; hedinghamcastle.co.uk 


3BEST FOR LITERARY TYPES 

De Walden room at Eilean Shona House 

Believed to be the inspiration for J M Barrie’s Neverland, 

Eilean Shona is a private island off Scotland’s majestic 

west coast. Owned by Vanessa Branson (sister of Sir Richard), 

the island’s cottages and grand old house have been superbly 

renovated and benefit from her discerning eye for design, 

colour and art. 

Eilean Shona House sleeps 18 guests and effortlessly blends 

boutique luxury living with the charm and ease of a family 

home. The vast dining room is painted by the Glaswegian artist 

Fred Pollock and comfortably seats up to 20 people, while the 

drawing room has an open fire for getting toasty on chilly days 

and a seated alcove offering captivating views of the loch. 

Choose between the driftwood bed of the Lorimer bedroom 

or the opulent grandeur of the four-poster De Walden suite 

– either way you’re sure to get a feel of that Peter Pan magic. 

Such is its rugged, wild and remote charm, a host of A-listers 

(including Kate Winslet) have holidayed on the island, which 

is home to abundant wildlife. Look for seals, sea eagles, sea 

otters, red squirrels and pine martens. In the summer, dolphins 

can be spotted in the surrounding pristine waters. 

Cottages from £950 per week; eileanshona.com 

4BEST FOR SPA LOVERS 

Spa Suites at Gilpin Lake House & Hotel 

With six junior suites with private hot tubs, six verdant open-plan 

garden suites with cedarwood hot tubs, plus five detached spa 

lodges, Gilpin Hotel & Lake House is peerless in its pursuit of Lake District 

luxury. For guests in search of pure serenity, though, Gilpin’s detached spa 

suites provide the ultimate in spa-cation hedonism. Set back from the main 

house and flanked by mountains to the west and acres of woodland to the 

east, the spa suites offer a Scandi-cool bedroom and living area, plus a private 

spa room with steam room, sauna, state-of-the-art automated massage chair, 

plus a traditional massage bed with infrared. 

Each spa suite cantilevers over its own private freshwater pond (bracing 

dips are an option for intrepid guests looking for an invigorating way to start 

the day), with the bedrooms designed to ‘float’ above the water. Immense 

floor-to-ceiling windows flood the suite with natural light, and the exquisitely 

appointed bedroom flows dreamily out to a tranquil deck area, where guests 

can laze in the hot tub under a blanket of stars. A hanging fireplace provides 

the stylish focal point for the stunning alpine-inspired living space, while a 

beautiful huge circular stone bath and cedarwood double walk-in shower 

provide more opportunity for soul-soothing pampering. 

Spa Suites start from £890 per night in summer / £670 per night in winter; 

pobhotels.com; thegilpin.co.uk 


5 

BEST FOR WRITERS 

Jonathan Swift at Hazlitt’s 

Taking its name from William Hazlitt, the 

celebrated English essayist who lived in 

the residence, this discreet townhouse hotel melds 

traditional hospitality with British elegance. 

Each room is named after one of Hazlitt’s friends 

or connections, including author of Gulliver’s Travels, 

Jonathan Swift. It's popular with authors and other 

creatives; many writers have left signed copies of their 

books in the hotel library. The Harry Potter signed copy 

is, in fact, so valuable it is now under lock and key. 

The Swift suite features an antique four-poster bed, 

roll-top bath and a study, though it’s a tough toss 

up between this refined sanctuary and the Duke of 

Monmouth duplex suite, which has a pretty, private 

upper terrace with a retractable roof – something of 

a rarity in central London. With more than 2,000 

prints and paintings on show, budding authors will be 

inspired and enthralled in equal measure. Designed to 

be a refuge from the buzz and hubbub of the capital, 

Hazlitt’s is touted as London’s ‘best-kept secret’ by 

famous patrons for good reason. 

Swift Suite from £499 per night, Duke of Monmouth 

from £849; hazlittshotel.com 

6 

BEST FOR ROYALISTS 

The Royal Suite at The Goring 

Royal ties run deep at this historic five-star London 

hotel where Kate Middleton stayed the night before she 

married Prince William. Just a ten-minute walk from Buckingham 

Palace, The Goring was granted a Royal Warrant by HM 

Queen Elizabeth II and remains a favourite among royals and 

distinguished guests to this day. The stunning one-bedroom 

penthouse Royal Suite, where the Princess resided, overlooks 

the oasis of the Goring’s gardens and is a treasure trove of royal 

artefacts, from handwritten letters, proclamations and invitations 

to military regalia. The walls of the suite’s master bedroom are lined 

with the same delicate silk used in the first-class dining room of 

RMS Titanic 1912, while the silk in the bathroom matches that lining 

The Throne Room in Buckingham Palace. Styled by the acclaimed 

designer Russell Sage, the palatial suite comprises a dining 

room, a sitting room, a guest cloakroom and master bedroom 

with grand en-suite bathroom. A striking life-size portrait of Her 

Majesty Queen Victoria hangs in the double shower of the master 

bathroom, providing even more talking points. 

Room rates from £790 per night. The Royal Suite starts from 

£8,500 per night; thegoring.com 


8 

BEST FOR FOREST BATHERS 

Treehouse suites at Chewton Glen 

In the heart of the New Forest, Chewton Glen 

has set a benchmark for classic, luxury, British 

hoteling for decades. Never one to rest on its impeccable 

laurels, Chewton saw a market for innovative treehouse 

suites, where guests can quite literally sleep amid the trees 

and a tranquil wooded valley. 

The hotel’s 14 luxury Treehouse Suites are enshrouded 

in verdant woodland and feature panoramic balconies 

for the ultimate escape in nature. Each private treehouse 

is suspended 35 feet above ground, with uninterrupted 

canopy views, and guests are treated to a private 

concierge along with daily breakfast hampers and five-star 

service. Stargaze in the treetops, soak in an outdoor hot 

tub or indulge in tree-room service, chef-prepared dinners 

and private spa treatments. 

For those who can prise themselves away from the 

treehouses, the refined country hotel has golf, tennis, an 

award-winning spa, gym, pool and the renowned James 

Martin Cookery School on site. 

Treehouse Suites from £995; chewtonglen.com 

7 

BEST FOR COAST TRIPPERS 

New suites at Fowey Hall 

Overlooking the picture-perfect sailing town 

of Fowey on Cornwall’s idyllic southern shore, 

Fowey Hall offers luxurious escapes for families of all 

ages. Part of the Luxury Family Hotels group, Fowey 

Hall’s newly launched suites with astounding views 

of Fowey’s spellbinding estuary and surrounding 

coastline, with features ranging from capacious rain 

showers to freestanding baths alongside all the homefrom-home 

comforts one could wish for. 

The coastal cool Lantic Bay Suite and Polruan 

Suite sit atop the spa with soul-soaring sea views and 

luxe interiors, while the other new rooms and suites 

are located in the contemporary garden wing, which 

is perched above the recently opened heated outdoor 

pool. The grand open-air pool, which incidentally 

wouldn’t look out of place in the South of France, offers 

yet more magical Cornish views. 

Polruan Suite starts from £650 per night in low season, 

The Lantic Bay Suite starts from £750 per night in low 

season; foweyhallhotel.co.uk 


9BEST FOR SHIPMATES 

Skerryvore Suite on Fingal 

For a sophisticated alternative to a typical 

city stay, reserve a cabin aboard Scotland’s 

first luxury floating hotel. Once a former Northern 

Lighthouse Board ship, the now-gleaming little ship 

has been transformed into a boutique hotel with 22 

elegant cabins and a renowned restaurant. 

Fingal is sister ship to The Royal Yacht Britannia, 

Queen Elizabeth II’s former floating palace and 

a fabulous museum. it's also within easy walking 

distance – moored in Edinburgh’s trendy Leith district 

, which is a ten-minute taxi ride to the city’s other 

top sights. Each cabin is named after a Stevenson 

lighthouse and features porthole windows; Art Deco 

styling; and leather, wood and brass accents that are 

evocative of a bygone era of luxury liner travel. Thanks 

to its outdoor private deck, super king-size bed and 

headboard with map contours, a separate sitting 

room and dining area and roll-top bath, the gorgeous 

Skerryvore Suite gets our vote. 

Skerryvore Suite starts from £1,200 per night; 

pobhotels.com; fingal.co.uk 

FOR BIG SPENDERS 

The Long Room at Heckfield Place 

A country haven coccooned by ancient woodlands, walled 

10BEST 

gardens and views of the Hampshire countryside, this lovingly 

restored Georgian family home is on the must-visit list for celebrities and 

esteemed travellers. Original features, a prize-winning art collection and a 

vast new spa are the calling cards of Heckfield Place eco-farm and country 

estate. The property’s grande dame is the Long Room, a private apartment 

offering vaulted ceilings, exposed beams, a 180-degree view private terrace 

and private butler. 

The exquisitely detailed apartment has played host to many famous 

patrons – it’s claimed the Duke and Duchess of Sussex rented the secluded 

Long Room for their babymoon in 2019. The expansive suite comprises a 

restful, elegant sitting and dining area – both with working fireplaces – an 

English oak kitchen, and romantic bedroom. Guests can rise to the call 

of birdsong then relax on their private balcony, which overlooks acres of 

woodland where fallow deer roam; or snuggle up with a book to the sound 

of a crackling open fire. The Long Room’s original British art, from a private 

collection, includes a remarkable painting of Virginia Woolf in the bedroom. 

Room rates from £550 per night. The Long Room from (an eye-watering) 

£6,000 per night; heckfieldplace.com 


BRITISH TRAVEL JOURNAL CROSSWORD 17 

 

ENTER FOR YOUR CHANCE TO WIN! 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A TIMELESS TEA TASTER HAMPER WORTH £80 FROM 

TREGOTHNAN – THE UK'S FIRST AND ONLY TEA PLANTATION – 

WILL BE SENT TO THE FIRST CORRECT ENTRANT RECEIVED THIS 

ISSUE. TO FIND OUT MORE VISIT TREGOTHNAN.CO.UK 

HOW TO ENTER 

SIMPLY SEND YOUR COMPLETED CROSSWORD (OR THE 

ANSWERS) AND YOUR POSTAL ADDRESS BY POST TO BRITISH 

TRAVEL JOURNAL, UNIT 6, BASEPOINT, ANDERSONS ROAD, 

SOUTHAMPTON, SO14 5FE, OR EMAIL THE ANSWERS TO 

CROSSWORD@BRITISHTRAVELJOURNAL.COM 

BOOKSHELF 

We're reading... 

ACROSS 

1 The Retreat at --- Park, 

Newbury (5) 

4 Stockport park in the grounds 

of a 14th-century timber-framed 

manor house (8) 

10 Pillow backing, perhaps (9) 

11 Maces crushed old French TV 

system (5) 

12 Past due (7) 

13 --- Glen, New Forest hotel (7) 

14 Studier of humanity (14) 

17 Sort out nice spare parts on 

the floor (7,7) 

22 Having money problems 

(2,1,4) 

24 With one leg on each side (7) 

26 Derby location (5) 

27 Belgravia place to stay (3,6) 

28 Cartier offering (8) 

29 Junction points (5) 

DOWN 

1 Australian anteater (7) 

2 This Church runs The Dreaming in 

Wales (9) 

3 Rather overweight (5) 

5 Extreme (7) 

6 Runner (9) 

7 It holds a Gold Cup (5) 

8 Loch with bonnie banks (6) 

9 Stored away (4,2) 

15 Lostwithiel castle (9) 

16 Stated in detail (9) 

18 Free of germs (7) 

19 --- Arms, where one might see the 

Shropshire Mammoth (6) 

20 Pungs (7) 

21 --- Shona House, Acharacle (6) 

23 Group, briefly (5) 

25 Scottish golf course town (5) 

Wild Guide South West (2nd Edition) Discover the hidden side of England’s 

South West in this revised and expanded classic. From secret coves and 

deserted beaches to lost ruins, meadows and swimming rivers – Over 

1000 secret places. Priced £18.99, awesomebooks.com. Mountain Walks 

Kinder Scout A guide to walking routes to the summit of Yr Wyddfa in Eryri 

(Snowdonia) – 15 inspiring routes with easy-to-follow, detailed directions. 

Priced £14.95, adventurebooks.com. Wild Swimming Walks 28 adventures in 

the soaring landscape of Eryri National Park in North Wales. Swim through 

secret valleys and find hidden waterfalls, exploring high lakes 

and woodland gorges. Priced £14.99, wildthingspublishing.com 

Answers will be printed in the Summer 2024 Issue 

ANSWERS TO CROSSWORD 16 | AUTUMN/WINTER 2023 

ACROSS: 1 Estelle 5 Pippin 10 Entrain 11 Toddler 12 Duty 13 Midas touch 

14 Pool 15 High Sierra 19 Lie dormant 20 Moke 21 Recaptures 24 Scad 

27 Immerse 28 Trevone 29 Nelson 30 Ecstasy 

DOWN: 2 Sit at home 3 Egad 4 Londinium 6 In detail 7 Pilau 8 North Dale 

9 Head 11 Tea 14 Polurrian 16 Hanseatic 17 Root crops 18 Morpurgo 

22 Camel 23 Use 25 Drey 26 Newt. 


there’s no place like Cornish Gems 

Eco-Conscious Homes | Hidden Gems | Coastal Retreats | Dog Friendly | Celebrations 

Cornwall is our home and we’d love to share it with you, responsibly 

and generously. Stay with us and experience the rare quality of over 

180 extraordinary Gems, sleeping from 2 to 20 guests. 

cornishgems.com | 01872 241241

Take control of your health at 

Goodwood’s wellness retreats 

Are you struggling with the menopause? 

Dealing with workplace stress? Curious about 

how to develop and maintain a healthy gut? 

Our industry-leading experts have the answers 

to help you lead a healthier and happier life. 

goodwood.com

British Travel Journal | Spring 2024

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