British Travel Journal | Autumn/Winter 2022

BRITISH TRAVEL 

JOURNAL 

AUTUMN/WINTER 2022 | ISSUE 13 

BRITISHTRAVELJOURNAL.COM 

WONDER 

IN WALES 

12-PAGE 

special 

£6.75 

+ TRAVEL NEWS | WILDLIFE | INTERVIEWS | HOTELS | LUXURY BREAKS

WINTER ON TRESCO 

Time to be immersed in the wilds of an island winter. In the 

occasional storm and its seaspray slinging drama. In the wonder of a 

subtropical garden blooming in the midst of a British winter. In the 

cosy heart of the island at our newly-refurbished island inn. 

TRESCO.CO.UK/WINTER 

Tresco: 28 miles off the Cornish coast. Somewhere else altogether.

CONTRIBUTIONS 

BRITISH TRAVEL 

JOURNAL 

BritishTravelJournal.com 

Welcome 

EDITOR’S LETTER 

— 

EDITORS 

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Jessica Way 

FEATURES EDITOR Samantha Rutherford 

CHIEF SUB-EDITOR Angela Harding 

HEAD OF DIGITAL Adrian Wilkinson 

CONTRIBUTORS 

Chantal Haines, Tonwen Jones, Jane Knight, 

Karyn Noble, Natalie Paris, Charlotte Varela, 

Karolina Wiercigroch 

COVER PHOTO 

— 

Grove of Narberth, Pembrokeshire 

© Image Editor's own 

Published by 

CONTISTA MEDIA 

Unit 6, Basepoint, Andersons Road, 

Southampton, SO14 5FE 

01489 660680 

contistamedia.co.uk 

Travel and relaxation merge together 

seamlessly during the quieter offseason 

months, enabling the perfect 

opportunity to embark on your 

own effortless journey, so why settle for one 

destination when you could discover an entire 

region? Our Cymru special shows you how to curate 

your own Wonder in Wales – an epic adventure through three 

spectacular counties spanning the country’s west coast (page 

48) – before whetting your appetite further with our Gourmet 

Guide to Wales (page 60). 

If you prefer foraging for your food and blending your 

favourite tipples, then our Black Autumn Magic truffle-hunting 

experiences (page 34) and Kindred Spirits behind-the-scenes 

distillery tours (page 26) are idyllic reading. Our gastronomic 

theme continues with our Star Man, British chef Simon Rogan 

who chats to us about the importance of field-to-fork dining 

and the success behind his flagship restaurant L’Enclume, which 

has just celebrated its 20th anniversary year and been awarded 

its third Michelin star (page 42). 

Discover our natural world, enjoying picturesque walks and 

beautiful gardens, from a luxurious subtropical Valley of Paradise 

in a hidden corner of Cornwall (page 70) to Wildlife Walks, 

spotting water voles, butterflies and four-spotted chasers 

(page 64). 

However you choose to spend your time, I hope this issue 

inspires your sense of adventure and ignites your passion to 

delve deeper – and you enjoy a season of intrepid trips filled with 

incredible moments. Thank you for all your support of British 

Travel Journal this year – we love hearing from you, so please 

don’t forget to share or tag your best travel pictures with us. 

Jessica x 

JESSICA WAY 

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF 

– 

All rights reserved by Contista Media Ltd. Copyright is either 

owned by or licenced to Contista Media Ltd, or permitted by the 

original copyright holder. Reproduction in whole or part without 

written permission is strictly prohibited. While every care is taken 

prices and details are subject to change and Contista Media Ltd 

take no responsibility for omissions or errors. Views expressed by 

authors are not necessarily those of the publisher. 

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@BritishTravelJournal 

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BritishTravelJournal.com 3

A LUXURIOUS SEVEN BEDROOM SELF-CATERING HAVEN IN SUSSEX 

www.southdownshouse.co.uk

CONTENTS 

AUTUMN/WINTER 2022 | ISSUE 13 

09 

48 

80 

JOTTINGS 

09 

TRAVEL NEWS 

This edition’s enticing autumn and winter escapes cater to 

all tastes, from a palatial Roman villa at The Newt in Somerset to 

a self-catering bus turned miniature home with Swedish hot tub, or 

take to the skies with next-level treehouses in The Lakes District. 

TOP TEN AUTUMN BREAKS 

80 Enjoy the seasonal autumnal beauty in our curated 

selection of luxury experiences; whether you prefer wild foraging 

in Abergavenny or apple-pressing and glamping in Cornwall, we 

have hot tips for all corners of Britain. 

CAMPERVAN ROAD TRIPS 

88 Why bother with airport queues when you can hit the 

road in style. We test-drive some of the best British road trips in 

Yescapa campervans. 

FOR YOUR JOURNEY 

98 Unwind with our cosy autumnal book recommendations or 

sharpen the mind with a crossword challenge. 

FEATURES 

24 

UNDER THE SPOTLIGHT: THE FOX AT 

ODDINGTON 

Editor Jessica Way reviews popular Cotswolds hotel, The Fox at 

Oddington, which has been revamped for maximum indulgence, 

from the ‘foxylicious’ food to the artistic interiors and private 

drinking dens. 

KINDRED SPIRITS 

26 This is our pick of the must-visit distilleries that you should 

explore on your next road trip (perhaps with a driver!). 

BLACK AUTUMN MAGIC 

34 We uncover the renaissance of English truffles, with 

expeditions in Sussex, Dorset, Hampshire and Wiltshire revealing 

the prized nuggets that grace some of the best restaurants in the 

country. 

WONDER IN WALES 

48 Join us on the newly launched Celtic Routes journey 

through West Wales, an adventure that winds through scenic 

Carmarthenshire, Pembrokeshire and Ceredigion, dotted with 

natural wonders and historic landmarks. 


E D I T O R 

L O V E S 

The heatwave season might be over 

but that doesn’t mean our outdoor fun 

should stop. Beach days, dog walks 

and wild swims should be activities 

we enjoy all the year round – and 

thanks to these thermally lined stylish 

weatherproof boiler suits they can 

be, and with effortless style. Say hello 

to the brand new Wylding suit; the 

perfect new fashion statement musthave 

for camping, paddleboarding, 

sailing, festivals and more! 

priced £160 wylding.co.uk 

YOUR GOURMET GUIDE TO 

60 WALES 

With a Welsh restaurant nominated as the 

UK’s best and the World Cheese Awards being 

hosted in Wales in 2022, now is the time to 

discover this underrated country’s gourmet 

delights. 

WILDLIFE WALKS 

64 If you’ve wondered where to see wild 

orchids while wandering in Britain, or the 

perfect spot to admire peregrine falcons and 

other natural phenomena, this article from 

Wildlife Walks author Charlotte Varella will 

open your eyes. 

THE VALLEY OF PARADISE 

70 We take a trip to Cornwall to review the 

recently refurbished Hotel Meudon, an idyllic 

escape with its own private beach, high-class 

dining, and nine acres of exquisite gardens – 

it’s dog-friendly too. 

AN EXTRAVAGANT 

94 REFURBISHMENT 

The £16-million refurbishment of Leeds’ 

historic site The Queen’s Hotel is a good 

excuse to learn more about its glamorous 

heyday and new must-dine destination, the 

Grand Pacific restaurant. 

Subscription Offer 

Subscribe to three issues of British Travel 

Journal for just £19 and receive the ultimate 

getaway essential from Noble Isle worth 

over £20, while stocks last. 

britishtraveljournal.com/subscribe 

INTERVIEWS 

42 

SIMON ROGAN 

Celebrating the 20th anniversary of his 

three-Michelin-starred restaurant L’Enclume 

in the Lake District, chef Simon Rogan is a 

pioneer of field-to-fork dining and a long-time 

champion of sustainability. He chats to us 

about his ambitions and his spectacular local 

ingredients. 

Not only do these fragrances smell 

wonderful, they come as a gorgeous 

mini-travel collection of 6ml spritzing 

bottles. Perfect for people who like to 

wear perfume when they travel. 

Priced, three for £80, or six for £150 

matiere-premiere.com/en/fragrance/ 

6 BritishTravelJournal.com 

42

This is Refreshing. 

For epic holidays all year round. 

This is Wales. 

Freshwater West, Pembrokeshire 

visitwales.com

a profound journey 

of rediscovery along the 

rivers of britain 

‘A knockout.’ 

Melissa Harrison 

‘Quietly courageous.’ 

Patrick Barkham 

learn more 

available now 

STYLISH RETREATS IN THE UK’S HOTTEST LOCATIONS 

From raising the flag on your own private island to watching the stars 

over the sea from your hot tub, Boutique Retreats specialise in unique, 

stylish properties that celebrate their surroundings whilst embracing 

luxurious living. We know how good getaways should be. 

boutique-retreats.co.uk 

+44 (0)1872 553 491 

enquiries@boutique-retreats.co.uk

latest 

TRAVEL NEWS 

As the nights draw in, be sure you have a late summer or autumnal 

escape to look forward to. Here we provide some inspiration 

Text by Jane Knight 

HOTEL NEWS 

SELF-CATERING 

AND GLAMPING 

EXCLUSIVE USE 

ATTRACTIONS 

AND EVENTS 

from page 10 from page 16 

from page 20 from page 22 

Pictured from top Olea, p18; Roman Villa, p10; The Balcony Studio, p17; Hillside Hangouts, p21; Kinetic Glasshouse at Woolbeding Gardens, p23

Hotel News 

SOMERSET 

Roman Villa at The Newt 

It already has magnificent gardens, a deer park, 

and a wealth of on-site activities, from bee 

safaris to cider tasting. Now The Newt, one of 

Britain’s hottest hotels, has opened a palatial 

Roman villa on its estate, reimagined next door 

to the original villa ruins found there. Visit the 

superb interactive museum before wandering 

through Villa Ventorum, with working Roman 

baths and formal dining room with frescoes of 

The Three Graces and intricate mosaics on the 

floor. You can sample authentic Roman food 

outside but we recommend eating in one of the 

excellent hotel restaurants instead. Rooms with 

breakfast and activities from £495. ◆ 

thenewtinsomerset.com 

NEW FOREST 

Lime Wood 

It’s the ultimate treat for foodies – the chance to enjoy a private 

meal cooked by Lime Wood’s Angela Hartnett and Luke Holder. 

Using produce from artisan suppliers that aren’t big enough to cater 

for usual hotel quantities, the duo will chat to guests seated at a 

kitchen table as they cook. It costs £3,000 for ten people. ◆ 

limewoodhotel.co.uk 

LEICESTER 

Hotel Brooklyn 

The clue’s in the name: this Leicester-based hotel adjacent to 

the Tigers’ rugby stadium could be straight out of New York's 

Brooklyn borough, just like its sister property in Manchester. 

The 191 rooms are done out in a dark palette, while the in-room 

service menu includes pillow fights. From £90, B&B. ◆ 

hotelbrooklyn.co.uk 

10 BritishTravelJournal.com

LONDON 

Como Metropolitan Residences 

Experience what it’s like to stay in the heart of Mayfair in these 

upgraded contemporary chic apartments, with living and dining areas 

and separate kitchens as well as private patios. Two- and three-bedroom 

apartments with access to the hotel’s facilities cost from £1,995. 

comohotels.com 

CORNWALL 

Headland Hotel 

The wind and waves create a mesmerising 

drama off the North Cornwall coast in autumn 

and winter, with 30-foot swells and 60mph 

winds. Watch it from two new Ocean View 

Suites that have just been unveiled at this 

seaside hotel, and which are part of an ongoing 

renovation programme. Blending antique 

furniture with new fabrics, the two-bedroom 

suites are a bold mix of colour, pattern and 

texture. Sleeping four, they are reasonably 

priced, from £395 a night. If the weather is 

kind, hit the beach, but if a storm is raging, 

the spa is the place to go, along with the 

six Aqua Club pools. ◆ 

headlandhotel.co.uk 

Editor loves 

LONDON 

Room2Chiswick 

Whether or not it’s the world’s first hotel to 

fully account for its entire carbon footprint, this 

'homtel' (a hotel with the comforts of home) does 

show that you can have sustainability with style. A 

heat pump, solar panels and greenery on the roof 

rub shoulders with colourful Arts-&-Crafts-inspired 

bedrooms, all with kitchenettes. From £129. ◆ 

room2.com 


Hotel News 

SURREY TO OXFORDSHIRE 

The Relais Henley 

Move out of the fast lane on a two-night 

‘Slow-cation’ package, combining a night on a 

boat and another at The Relais Henley. Board 

a luxury hybrid river cruiser at Runneymede, 

Surrey, where the skipper will do all the hard 

work while you sip Champagne. Enjoy a picnic at 

Windsor, followed by an optional on-deck dinner 

beneath the stars before mooring at Marlow. 

The next day, before disembarking at Henleyon-Thames, 

take a private rowing lesson with 

a member of the world-famous Leander Club. 

Then check into a riverside room at The Relais 

Henley, with dinner in The Clipper Restaurant. 

Two nights from £3,995 per couple. ◆ 

therelaisretreats.com/henley 

Le Manoir aux Quat’ Saisons 

Take the kids for an autumnal escape at Raymond Blanc’s 

luxurious hotel, where they can follow a trail of vegetable 

characters as they explore before dinner. Two meals for children 

under 12 are included in the price, as well as seven-course seasonal 

dinners for parents. From £1,805 for four in the same room. ◆ 

belmond.com 


OXFORDSHIRE 

CORNWALL 

Old Ferry Inn 

It might sound ancient but this pub with 11 rooms has just had a 

swish makeover, transforming it into an even more comfortable 

base from which to explore the area. On your return, try the 

vodka, gin and rum distilled on-site – you can buy bottles at the 

new artisanal shop. From £125, with breakfast. ◆ 

theoldferryinn.co.uk

GOODWOOD 

one 

of 

the 

best 

hotels 

in 

the 

country 

DUNCAN CRAIG, TRAVEL EDITOR, THE TIMES AND SUNDAY TIMES 

GOODWOOD.COM

MARGATE 

Fort Road Hotel 

Watch the sunsets Turner called "the loveliest in all Europe" from 

the roof terrace of this hip new seafront hotel, featuring artwork 

by Tracey Emin, among others. The restaurant in the 14-room 

property includes dishes inspired by historic female food writers. 

Rooms from £145. fortroadhotel.com 

LONDON 

Raffles at the OWO 

Follow in the footsteps of statespeople and 

spies, from Winston Churchill to Ian Fleming, 

at the historic Old War Office (OWO), which 

is due to open this winter as a Raffles hotel 

in the landmark Grade-II*-listed former 

Whitehall building. The building’s classic 

Edwardian architecture has been reshaped 

to create 120 rooms and 85 residences, 

while restoring historic elements such as 

hand-laid mosaic floors, oak panelling, and 

a magnificent marble staircase. Eat on the 

rooftop terrace or in Mauro Colagreco’s 

restaurant. London’s first Guerlain spa will 

span four floors, and you can swim in the 

striking 20-metre pool. Prices yet to be set. ◆ 

theowo.london 

One 

to 

watch 

CUMBRIA 

Sunday sleepovers at 

Armathwaite Hall 

Slip slowly into autumn on a Pride of Britain sleep 

sojourn at this Lake District hotel. The Sunday night 

Pillow Package includes a guided mindfulness 

experience, relaxing massage and seasonal dinner. 

A herbal infusion should lull you into the land of nod 

before breakfast and a Pilates class or refreshing swim 

the next day. From £340pp. ◆ 

armathwaite-hall.com 


Self-Catering and Glamping 

LINCOLNSHIRE 

The Nest 

Still not convinced by glamping? Take a look at 

the egg-shaped baths in the three safari-style 

tents here and imagine yourself sipping a glass 

of bubbles as you gaze down at the lake. Each 

lodge sleeps up to six people, and while you’re 

technically under canvas, they come with all the 

creature comforts, including White Company 

linen on the beds, plenty of hot running water 

and a fully equipped kitchen. You can book inlodge 

spa treatments, too. Go fishing, boating 

or birdwatching, then cook an evening BBQ, 

toast marshmallows or soak in the wood-fired 

hot tub. From £750 for four nights. ◆ 

thenestglamping.co.uk 

DEVON 

The Boathouse, Sandridge Barton 

Enjoy a boozy break when you visit Sharpham Wine’s new home at 

Sandridge Barton and stay in this two-bedroom boathouse on the 

banks of the River Dart. Follow walking trails through the estate and 

discover your favourite wine during a tasting before retreating to the 

waterside home with a bottle or two. From £825 for three nights. ◆ 

sandridgebarton.com 

THE LAKE DISTRICT 

Another Place 

Taking treehouses to a new level, Another Place’s architectdesigned 

suite comes with two double bedrooms with spectacular 

views across Ullswater and the fells. As well as a bathroom, there’s 

an outdoor bath on the outdoor deck so you can truly soak in the 

scenery. Also new are six shepherd huts with stargazing roofs. 

Treehouse from £625, shepherd huts from £425. ◆ 

another.place 


ISLE OF WIGHT 

Tapnell Farm Group 

If you want to visit this island farm and enjoy the activities on 

offer but don’t want to stay in the heart of the action, check out 

the Piglets, four upcycled animal arcs at sister farm East Afton. 

From £200 for two nights. 

tapnellfarm.com 

HEREFORDSHIRE 

Nuthatch, the sleeper bus 

Stayed in a shepherd's hut and want to 

move on from tents? Take a look at this bus, 

a 1960s Bedford Panoramic that has been 

cleverly converted into a miniature home. 

A cosy double bed is at the back, with a 

wood-burning stove nearby. Kids can sleep 

on the sofa bed in the kitchen/dining area, 

with a wooden floor, oak worktops, a cooker 

and a fridge. Electricity comes courtesy of 

solar panels on the roof, and there’s a 

Swedish wood-fired hot tub to wallow 

in under the stars as well as a separate 

bathroom. From £120 a night to 

Hideaway members (£17 a year). ◆ 

kiphideaways.com 

CORNWALL 

The Balcony Studio 

The balcony in question juts over the sea defence 

walls at St Ives harbour, making this one-bedroom 

cottage the perfect romantic bolthole for either summer 

sea views or storm watching. The beamed master 

bedroom features glass panels that look down into 

the large spa bathroom, with its giant bathtub and 

couples’ shower. From £175 a night. ◆ 

thebalconystudio.co.uk 


SCOTLAND 

Ceol Mor Highland Lodges 

These two new insulated wooden lodges are perfectly placed for 

anyone wanting to go Highlands hiking and biking or to take distillery 

tours. Cookery experiences for the kids are on offer, too. 

Three nights for a family of four from £375. 

ceolmor.co.uk 

WEST SUSSEX 

Olea, Amberley 

Talk about your quintessential chocolate-box 

thatched cottage. Less than two hours' drive 

from London, Olea comes with roses climbing 

up its golden stone walls, and pretty lead-lined 

windows. With its wooden floor, vaulted ceiling 

and exposed stone walls, the sitting room is the 

perfect place to curl up after a day exploring 

nearby Arundel, the South Downs National Park 

and Wittering beaches. There’s a rustic kitchen, 

complete with stone floors and a 17th-century 

monk’s bench and a pretty courtyard garden. 

The master bedroom is on the ground floor, 

with an extra room on the mezzanine level. 

Three-night weekends cost from £734. ◆ 

boutique-retreats.co.uk 

WALES 

Bert’s Kitchen Garden 

A thriving eco-campsite on North Wales’s littlevisited 

Llyn Peninsula, Bert’s now has a brace of 

huts for those who prefer to camp in comfort. Clad 

in reclaimed wood, each has a king-sized bed and 

marble-tiled shower room; they are just a short 

stroll from the kitchen garden restaurant. 

A night for two costs from £175. ◆ 

bertskg.com 


Inspiring 

Destinations. - 

Bovey Castle, Dartmoor 

Discover the carefully curated collection of privately owned hotels and 

experience the best places to eat, stay and unwind within the British Isles. 

Pride of Britain Hotels 

Call FREEPHONE: 0800 089 3929 

Book online: www.prideofbritainhotels.com 

Visit our website 

for the latest 

news and offers. 

Follow our socials:

Exclusive Use 

SUSSEX 

South Downs House 

This recently renovated 20th-century house 

comes with stunning South Downs views and 

sits on four acres of woodland and grounds. 

The seven beautifully furnished bedrooms with 

Crittall windows share six bathrooms. There’s 

space for everyone to sit down together as 

well as a modern kitchen for home-cooked 

extravaganzas, although caterers can also be 

arranged. A heated outdoor pool is available, 

as well as croquet, badminton and giant Jenga. 

Take a tour of the nearby Ridgeview Vineyard 

(two bottles of its sparkling wine are included 

in the welcome hamper). A week for 14 costs 

from £7,000, or £4,000 for a weekend. ◆ 

southdownshouse.co.uk 

NORTHUMBERLAND 

Brockmill Farmhouse 

Just a 35-minute walk from the Holy Island of Lindisfarne, this 

characterful family home comes with its own cinema room, games 

room with snooker table, and large garden featuring a giant 

chess set. There is room for 14 adults and two children in the seven 

upstairs bedrooms, with a week’s rental costing from £2,506. ◆ 

crabtreeandcrabtree.com 

PEMBROKESHIRE 

Coppet Hall Lodge 

The Pembrokeshire Coast Path passes just outside this light, airy 

cottage, with the golden sands of the beach in front and woodland 

behind. There’s space for six guests but bigger groups can also book 

nearby White Cottage, sleeping another four people. Coppet Hall 

Lodge from £1,225 a week, White Cottage from £828. ◆ 

ruralretreats.co.uk 


WALES 

Penrhiw Priory, St Davids 

Now available for exclusive hire only, this 19th-century priory features 

modern interiors decorated with contemporary artworks. As well as 

six bedrooms in the main building, there are another two in the original 

coach house. From £1,230 a night for 16. 

penrhiwhotel.com 

CORNWALL 

ARC Padstow 

With its seafood restaurants and cafes, 

delicious local wine and the Camel Trail Cycle 

Way, Padstow is a delightful place to visit any 

time of the year. Now it’s even better, with 

this high-end rental for 24 guests in a former 

18th-century manor house, set in the adjacent 

hamlet of St Issey. Expect Cornish slate, 

original beams and historic fireplaces in a 

cool mix of cottage and contemporary styles. 

There is plenty of space for everyone, with 

five reception areas and 12 bedrooms. In the 

grounds there’s a wood-fired hot tub, garden 

rooms and even an outdoor kitchen. 

A week costs from £4,500. ◆ 

finestretreats.co.uk 

THE COTSWOLDS 

Elsker, Hillside Hangouts 

New to the Farncombe estate, with its Dormy 

House and Fish hotels, this eight-bedroom house 

has its own library, games room, and outdoor 

swimming pool. Book a private chef, cook for 

yourselves or eat in one of the hotel restaurants. 

Outdoor activities include archery and axe 

throwing. A week for 16 costs from £9,510. ◆ 

hillsidehangouts.co.uk 


Attractions and Events 

ESSEX AND HAMPSHIRE 

New stretches of England 

Coast Path 

Walkers can now make their way along an 85-mile route 

in Essex and a 52-mile route in Hampshire after two new 

paths were opened by Natural England. In Essex, the 

new stretch runs from Tilbury to Wallasea Island, via 

Southend-on-Sea, and takes in varied landscapes of salt 

marsh and vast grasslands. The Hampshire stretch – the 

first in the county – takes walkers along the Solent coast, 

with its unspoiled countryside, busy marinas, industrial 

heritage, historic castles and wildlife conservation sites, 

connecting the popular beach at Calshot Spit to the 

nautical town of Gosport, and then on to the busy city 

of Portsmouth. Once complete, the 2,700-mile-long 

England Coast Path, will be the longest, continuous 

coastal walking route in the world. ◆ 

nationaltrail.co.uk 

BATH 

Cleveland Pools 

As well as taking the waters in Bath, you should also be able to swim 

in one of Britain’s oldest lidos from the end of this summer. Built in 

1815, the site first opened as a river-fed pool, and experienced a 

colourful history from Victorian times to its 1970s heyday. ◆ 

clevelandpools.org.uk 

SURREY 

The Rover Social 

Calling all Land Rover families and fans – Loseley Park is hosting 

a one-day event on 25 September. Try your hand at clay-pigeon 

shooting, visit the classic car paddock and experience some 

guided off-roading on the estate in your own vehicle. Food and 

drink is available and a DJ will provide the day’s soundtrack. ◆ 

theroversocial.com 


NATIONWIDE 

Road trips with PetsPyjamas 

Take the legwork out of organising a multi-stop break with Fido 

by picking one of the nine road trips curated by PetsPyjamas. 

All feature hotels that provide a warm welcome for four-legged 

friends plus places to stop and see en route. 

petspyjamas.com 

WEST SUSSEX 

Kinetic Glasshouse at 

Woolbeding Gardens 

Explore the remarkable kinetic glasshouse and Silk 

Route garden at the National Trust’s Woolbeding 

Estate in West Sussex. The glasshouse, inspired by 

Victorian ornamental terrariums, opens its ‘sepals’ 

on warm days to create a large space in the shape 

of a crown. Designed by Heatherwick Studio, 

it takes four minutes to open using a hydraulic 

mechanism. In colder weather, the structure 

remains closed in the shape of a ten-sided pyramid. 

It is the focal point of a new garden that shows how 

much the ancient Silk Route has influenced English 

gardens of today, with silk exchanged for plants 

such as rosemary, lavender and fennel. ◆ 

nationaltrust.org.uk 

LONDON 

Leighton House 

Following an £8 million transformation, the 

house and studio of Victorian artist Lord Frederick 

Leighton, is due to open on 15 October. For the 

first time, guests will be able to see Leighton’s 

Winter Studio and to view a contemporary 11-metre 

mural enveloping the curved walls of a new helical 

staircase, as well as the house’s opulent interiors. ◆ 

rbkc.gov.uk/museums/ 


under the 

SPOTLIGHT 

One of the hottest hotel openings of the year, The Fox at Oddington 

may be small but Jessica Way discovers its extensive renovation retains its 

stylishly cute Cotswolds charm – just with a few more foxy notches 

Text by Jessica Way 

Carole Bamford’s latest project, The Fox at 

Oddington, was destined to amass attention 

during its 16-month revamp – and just three 

weeks after opening, not only had all the most 

influential travel journalists been there already for the full 

tour of the Grade-II-listed property, but the locals are now 

turning out in their droves, visiting night after night – and 

the atmosphere is electric. 

I’m dining in the Saddle Room restaurant feeling 

decadent with a glass of Rouge de Léoube, about to take 

another mouthful of succulent Chateaubriand steak sourced 

from a local Wiltshire farm, Stokes Marsh, when I see a 

familiar face: Ewan Grant, General Manager from nearby 

sister hotel The Wild Rabbit in Kingham. He's lending a 

hand to the new team and we joke about the food being 

more than just delicious, agreeing its ‘foxylicious,’ as per 

the signage sketched into the beams framing the open-plan 

kitchen. 

The owners of Daylesford Organic Farm must have 

known this six-bedroom 16th-century traditional inn would 

be oh-so-welcomed into their Cotswolds family – and we all 

know foxes thrive in the presence of rabbits, but I'm keen to 

ask Ewan about how the two pubs rub along together. 

He explained that The Fox has a more laid-back countrypub 

vibe, welcoming locals and visitors to drop in anytime, 

while The Wild Rabbit is fine dining with an à la carte menu. 

And, with a complimentary chauffeur service offered to 

hotel guests to take them between venues, I am tempted to 


‘ 

We even have private access to the pretty walled garden... we sit there, 

sipping a 'Punchy Fox' or two and playing cards until sundown 

’ 

book at least one more night here – it’s the weekend, after 

all. Then I remember I can’t, they are fully booked. 

We stayed in The Den – a sumptuous dog-friendly suite, where 

our Spanador knew she had hit the jackpot, making herself at 

home in the sitting room with floor-to-ceiling windows. 

It’s not so bad for us either: a four-poster bed, a roll-top 

bathtub, Bamford toiletries, a minibar, and a private terrace. 

We even have private access to the pretty walled garden, 

complete with converted horsebox serving cocktails. Following 

dinner we sit there, sipping a 'Punchy Fox' or two and playing 

cards until sundown. 

And while the Daylesford team didn’t need to be 

cunning, they have certainly been crafty – bringing in a team 

of incredibly skilled locals to apply centuries-old techniques 

using sustainable materials (from reclaimed timber to 

sheep’s wool from their own organic farm as the insulation). 

The gardeners have been creative too – beautiful wildflowers 

cover the restaurant roof, hedges have been shaped into 

foxes and a large tree trunk has been sawn into a rustic bike 

rack. Aesthetics touch on nature, with Hugo Guinness prints 

hanging on the walls, and on the floor of our suite there is 

beautifully decorated leaf-inspired painted artwork. Further 

artistic flair pays tribute to the area's equestrian heritage, 

with reclaimed stone water troughs as sinks, stable doors 

restored as partitions, and grand portraits of thoroughbreds 

and lines of vintage rosettes hanging in The Tackroom (the 

more cosy bar area with inglenook fireplace, low beams and 

antique furniture). 

Daylesford Organic Farm, an ultra-trendy wellness hang-out 

and foodie destination, is just one mile down the road; it's where 

guests have access (and a 10% discount) to the cookery school, 

garden tours and floristry workshops, as well as Bamford 

Wellness Spa’s treatments and classes. Scan the QR code on 

the back of the bedroom door – or simply follow the woodland 

footpath past St Nicholas’s church and over the railway bridge. 

It's a match made in heaven as well as Cotswold stone. 

Jessica Way was a guest of the Fox at Oddington, which 

has B&B doubles from £225, thefoxatoddington.com 



meet the maker 

KINDRED 

SPIRITS 

From heritage distilleries to family makers and new crafters, 

Britain is brimming with master blenders and unique spirits that 

are raising the bar. With creativity, legacy and sustainability at 

their core, these distilleries are well worth hitting the road for... 

Text by Chantal Haines 

Silent Pool 

Situated on the Albury Estate in the 

heart of the Surrey Hills, the distillery 

sits adjacent to its namesake, The Silent 

Pool, a tranquil body of water that dates 

back to The Ice Age. Distilled from 24 

different botanicals, which are collected 

where possible from the local area, Silent 

Pool Gin uses Bosnian juniper berries, 

liquorice root, cassia bark, orris, and 

bergamot, alongside honey sourced from 

a neighbouring beekeeper in its secret 

recipe. The distillers work closely with 

local farms and fruit producers in the 

area and uses their leftover fruit to make 

limited edition small batch gins including 

blackberry and damson gin, apricot 

aperitivo, and greengage gin. 


The Silent Pool distillery tour takes visitors around 

the renovated barns that now house the bespoke 

copper stills, down to the banks of the Silent Pool, and 

culminates in a tasting of the award-winning Silent 

Pool gins, and a number of the small batch range of 

gins, cordials and aperitivos. 

In 2021 Silent Pool launched Green Man Woodland 

gin – the first spirit in the world to be sold in a paper 

bottle. Ethical in ethos and production, Silent Pool 

reuses, recycles and reduces waste wherever it 

can. The company ditched polylaminate capsules 

in 2018, replacing them with bottles and stoppers 

made of glass, capped with tin. To keep fuel miles to 

a minimum, Silent Pool’s original still is fired by wellseasoned 

local hardwood supplied from the Albury 

Estate, and Silent Pool’s Rye Grain Vodka is filtered 

using locally made charcoal. 

silentpooldistillers.com 

The Henley Distillery 

A recent addition to the UK distillery family, The Henley 

Distillery was founded in 2021 by 28-year-old Master 

Distiller Jacob Wilson. Headquartered from a restored 

threshing barn just outside Henley-on-Thames, its smallbatch, 

single-shot sipping gins have already bagged a 

number of industry accolades. One of only a handful 

of distilleries in the UK owned and run by a Master 

Distiller, The Henley Distillery is one to watch. 

The range includes the multiple award-winning Henley 

Gin Classic Dry – giving a contemporary twist on a 

London Dry; and The Henley Gin Oriental Spiced – a 

complex blend of rich spices inspired by the Silk Road. 

Visitors can try their hand at making their own gin at 

The Henley Distillery’s new, fully immersive gin school. 

Guests see the distillery in action, learn about the 

history of gin and, of course, taste several of the gins 

made at the distillery. As the finale, guests have the 

opportunity to create a bottle of their very own bespoke 

gin under Jacob's guidance using their own mini copper 

still and choosing from a library of over 100 botanicals. 

thehenleydistillery.co.uk 

Fynoderee Distillery 

Located on the Isle of Man, The Fynoderee Distillery, 

is dedicated to the production of premium spirits with 

genuine Manx roots and heritage. The blends feature 

Manx-grown and hand-foraged botanicals and are 

distilled, bottled and served at the distillery in Ramsey. 

The name Fynoderee hails from an ancient Manx 

folklore tale, based in Glen Auldyn in the north of the 

island – the very place where the last Manx juniper tree 

was reputed to have grown and where juniper is now 

being reintroduced. The distillery has plans to launch 

public tours soon, so watch this space. 

fynoderee.com 


Good to know: In 2022, Silver 

Circle Distillery branded one of 

its vodkas Vodka For Ukraine and 

donates all profits from the sale of 

these bottles to the DEC Ukraine 

Humanitarian Appeal 

Silver Circle Distillery 

Founded by Nina and Joe Howden in June 2019, the 

most easterly distillery in Wales has a craft spirit 

range, which includes the award-winning Silver Circle 

Aquavit, Wye Valley Gin, and Black Garlic Vodka, and 

its Botanical Vodka No.1 in the Monmouthshire village 

of Catbrook. The distillery has recently opened a 

new tasting room and shop in the heart of Chepstow, 

providing the perfect place to savour the fine range of 

Silver Circle’s spirits. 

The shop offers Make Your Own Gin Experiences 

for up to eight people once a week (Saturdays), as 

well as tutored tasting sessions for up to 12 people. 

Alternatively, guests can enjoy the shop’s gin taster 

board (featuring Wye Valley Gin, Gunga Gin, and 

Silver Circle’s Catbrook Honey Gin), a cocktail taster 

board (featuring three of Silver Circle’s small batch, 

ready-to-drink cocktails) and the Aquavit Taster Board 

(featuring a taster of Silver Circle Aquavit along with 

two miniature aquavit cocktails). 

The ethically minded brand sells 50cl refill cans for its 

Wye Valley Gin, while walk-in customers at the Silver 

Circle Tasting Room in Chepstow can bring back their 

empty Wye Valley Gin bottle for a refill. Hospitality 

customers can buy the gin at trade prices in reusable 

5L ‘jerrycans’ to refill their original bottle for use on 

the bar – saving on seven glass bottles entering the 

recycling stream. 

silvercircledistillery.com 


Nc’nean 

The female-founded Nc’nean Distillery sits on the wild 

and captivating Morvern peninsular, on the beautiful 

west coast of Scotland. After leaving her job in London 

in 2013, Annabel Thomas spent four years raising funds 

and building the distillery from the ground up. Located a 

stone's throw away from the tranquil Sound of Mull and 

surrounded by lush green hills, Nc'Nean was created to 

change the way the world thinks about whisky from 

Scotland. Annabel's predominantly female-led team 

aim to create light and delicious spirits that can exist 

in harmony with the planet (NcNean is the UK’s first 

whisky distillery verified as having net zero carbon 

emissions from its own operations.) Nc’nean's core 

expression, a smooth and elegant Organic Single Malt 

Scotch Whisky has flavours of citrus, peach, apricot 

and spice, while its Botanical Spirit is flavoured with 

ten locally grown botanicals and provides a refreshing 

alternative for gin lovers. Nc’nean is known for quietly 

rebelling against the ‘rules’ of traditional Scotch. The 

distillery uses longer mashing times and experiments 

with different yeasts not commonly associated with 

whisky making. The team also age their spirits in 

interesting casks, including Tokaji and Tequila, to 

bring creative flavours to their special releases. Visitors 

can tour Nc’nean Monday to Friday while sampling 

Nc’nean’s fine spirits, alongside different cask samples 

that make up their signature recipe. 

ncnean.com 


Colwith Farm Distillery 

Cornwall’s only single estate distillery is founded on 

five generations of farming and produces awardwinning 

vodka and gin. Unlike distilleries that buy in 

mass-produced ethanol, Colwith makes everything 

from scratch, using potatoes grown on their family 

farm to create their Aval Dor (Cornish for potato) 

spirits sustainably. Colwith Farm Distillery’s Aval Dor 

Original Vodka is the first British vodka ever to win a 

Platinum Medal at The San Francisco World Spirits 

Competition (SFWSC). Its range of gins use a variety 

of botanicals, including fresh lemon balm, rosemary 

and bay leaves picked from the family’s grandmother's 

garden. This summer, Colwith has launched the UK’s 

first plough-to-bottle vodka school, where guests can 

make their own bespoke vodka from Cornish potatoes. 

Guests are invited to craft, blend and fill their own 70cl 

flavoured Cornish vodka to take home using a blend of 

botanicals bespoke to their taste. Alongside its vodka 

school, Colwith also offers gin experiences, tutored 

tastings and distillery tours. 

colwithfarmdistillery.co.uk 

Hattiers Rum 

Hattiers sources aged rums from around the world, 

blending them in Devon as part of a family business. 

The UK's first B Corp certified rum – an award for 

high social and environmental performance – Hattiers 

has been plastic-free from day one and has a carbon 

negative workforce. The brand produces Eminence 

Blended Aged White Rum, Egremont Premium 

Reserve Rum and its Resolute Navy Strength Rum, and 

in 2022 founder Philip Everett-Lyons began offering 

guided distillery tours of the South Devon-based 

facility. Guests can explore Hattiers blending room, 

learn about the impact of oak and cask aging and 

discover how they blend their three premium rums. 

Eminence is a light–medium bodied, dry blended aged 

white rum. Egremont is a blend of four cask-aged rums 

hand-picked from across the Caribbean and Central 

America and gently paired with pure soft spring water 

from the hills of Dartmoor. And finally, Resolute is a 

blended aged Navy Strength rum, made using rums 

from Barbados, Australia, Guyana and Jamaica. 

hattiers.com 

Heart of Suffolk Distillery 

Launched by husband-and-wife team Martyn and 

Karen Luke in 2018, the Heart of Suffolk Distillery is 

based in Finbows Yard, Bacton. 

The family business distils small batches of a London 

Dry style gin with nine carefully chosen hand crushed 

botanicals to create a modern and refreshing taste. 

Their signature tipple is named to honour Betty, 

Karen’s mother, who shared the same love and 

enjoyment of a good quality gin. Each batch of 

around 70 bottles is hand signed and numbered by 

master distiller Martyn. 

The Heart of Suffolk Distillery is open to the public 

and offers a relaxed experience for those wanting 

to enjoy a sample and purchase a bottle of the 

handcrafted gin. 

heartofsuffolkdistillery.co.uk 


Henstone Distillery by train 

Something a little different for gin, whisky, vodka and 

bourbon lovers – this year visitors will be able to enjoy a 

train ride and a tipple, thanks to the opening of a new 

rail link on the volunteer-operated Cambrian Heritage 

Railways, which will connect Oswestry town centre to 

Henstone distillery on the outskirts of the charming North 

Shropshire town. The 15-minute journey takes visitors to 

one of Shropshire’s most lauded small-batch producers 

where Henstone’s range of award-winning gins, whisky, 

charcoal-filtered vodka and Old Dog Corn Liquor is made. 

henstonedistillery.com 

Isle of Barra 

Husband-and-wife team Michael and Katie Morrison 

sought to open the first legal distillery on the Isle 

of Barra and founded the Isle of Barra Distillers in 

2017. Its Atlantic Gin is infused with a key botanical 

– carrageen seaweed, which the brand is now famed 

for. In 2022, the distillery launched its first Island Dark 

Rum – strong, bold and rustic, much like the rocky east 

coastline, with a finish as smooth as the fine golden 

sands found on the west side of the island. 

For its Island Dark Rum, the Isle of Barra Distillers 

again use botanical, carrageen seaweed, handharvested 

from the shores of Barra. The carrageen is 

infused alongside coconut, cardamon, cloves, lemon 

and orange peel. 

The most westerly distillery in Scotland, the Isle of 

Barra Distillers creates vital employment opportunities 

for the local community on the island and aims to help 

the remote island’s fragile infrastructure flourish. 

isleofbarradistillers.com 


lack 

AUTUMN 

MAGIC 

Following a renaissance of foraging and wild foods, our native 

truffles are on the path from a little-known curiosity to an exciting 

ingredient, sought after by top chefs around the country. From 

truffle-hunting experiences in the woods of Sussex and Wiltshire 

to mouth-watering dishes served in snug country pubs, the 

English truffle season has a truly intoxicating aroma 

Text by Karolina Wiercigroch 

Grab the dogs!” Melissa shouts and starts sprinting. She 

navigates between rows of thin beeches, their rusty leaves 

shimmering in the low October sun, and is the first one to 

reach the spot where two very excited Cocker Spaniels are 

sniffing the ground. They’re ready to dig but, this time, Melissa is faster. 

She gently shifts the dogs away and starts breaking the damp ground. 

Soon, she’s presenting a handful of round, plum-sized balls, coal-black and 

warty. Their scent is lightly floral, sweet and nutty, with earthy undertones 

of raw beetroot. Truffles. Not in the hills of Piedmont, not in the Périgord 

region of southwest France. Melissa Waddingham has been hunting for 

these delicacies in the grounds of Sussex for the last 15 years. 

The world’s most celebrated fungi, white truffles — tuber magnatum 

— often associated with the Italian town of Alba, are found in the 

limestone-rich soils all the way between Italy and the Black Sea, with 

some exceptional ones hunted in the forests of Croatian Istria, Southern 

Hungary and Serbia. Black winter truffles – tuber melanosporum – 

sometimes called after the French region of Périgord, are native to 

eastern Spain, southern France and northern and central Italy. Today, 

most of black winters are farmed in truffle orchards worldwide, and 


“ 

There’s nothing like driving 

back from a hunt with a kilo 

of truffles in my bag 

” 

the Australian inverted seasons satiate 

European markets in the summer. And 

while the two species – magnatum and 

melanosporum – are unanimously prized 

in the culinary world, they are just the tip 

of the truffle iceberg. “People think only 

Italy and France grow truffles, but we 

have around 38 species here in the UK,” 

says Melissa. The ones important from a 

gourmet perspective, black summer and 

black autumn, are in fact biologically the 

same species (tuber aestivum), though 

are often described as two distinct kinds. 

Summer truffles, usually found between 

April and September, have a paler inside 

and a vanishingly light aroma. Black 

autumns, also called Burgundy, mature 

in hilly forests between September 

and December. Firm to touch, with 

a marbled, milk-chocolate-coloured 

interior, they hold a much stronger 

aroma of flowers, boiled sweetcorn and 

toasted hazelnuts. As with wine, the 

terroir plays a significant role in their 

flavour; the same truffle will develop a 

different smell in various soils, regions 

and weather conditions. 

“There’s nothing like driving back 

from a hunt with a kilo of truffles in my 

bag," Melissa smiles. "Their aroma is 

an instant mood enhancer.” She always 

whiffs the soil after taking out the 


PREVIOUS PAGE LEFT TO RIGHT: MELISSA WADDINGHAM 

FOUNDER OF TRUFFLE AND MUSHROOM HUNTER; TRUFFLE 

DOG TRAINING WITH THE ENGLISH TRUFFLE COMPANY; 

TRUFFLE HUNTING WITH WILTSHIRE TRUFFLES 

THIS PAGE: GRATED TRUFFLES AT ETCH. RESTAURANT IN 

HOVE; TRUFFLE DOG TRAINING WITH THE ENGLISH TRUFFLE 

COMPANY; HARRIET MANSEL, HEAD CHEF AT ROBIN WYLDE 

NEXT PAGE: ZAK FROST, FOUNDER OF WILTSHIRE TRUFFLES 

truffles, taking in the smell that resembles a freshly 

opened tin of sweetcorn. Straight out of the ground, 

the truffles hold a rather mild scent, which develops 

over time. To Melissa, pleasant hints of white 

spirit and a very light diesel start appearing after 

a couple of days. An experienced forager with a 

forestry degree, Melissa provides hands-on truffle 

experiences in the Sussex forests. Sometimes, she 

feeds participants luscious truffle creations, like 

baked apples with truffle-infused cream and honey, 

or a hot celeriac soup with freshly gathered truffles 

grated on top. At home, she whips up truffle frozen 

yoghurts, shaves truffles over warm bread-andbutter 

puddings or cures egg yolks in homemade 

truffle salt “I’m half-French, I love cooking.” 

Melissa hunts with two Working Cocker Spaniels, 

Ela and Aesti. Pigs — the original truffle-hunting 

companions — were swapped for dogs by the 

1700s, as their love for truffles can be as passionate 

as the one of human gourmands. Stopping pigs 

from eating truffles is hard, stories of nine-fingered 

hunters teach us, and most dogs are happy to work 

for treats. “My girls actually really enjoy truffles!” 

Melissa laughs. “And I let them have an occasional 

one.” After all, this is how truffles replicate; unlike 

mushrooms, which use wind to spread their spores, 

truffles depend on animals to dig them, eat them 

and disperse their spores by defecating beneath a 

different tree. This is where the intoxicating smell 

comes in handy — a truffle is found when its aroma 

can be detected by squirrels, foxes, deers or boars. 

Human sense of smell is not strong enough, which is 

why we usually need help. 

Truffles grow on roots of certain kinds of 

trees, like oak or silver birch, forming a symbiotic 

relationship with their hosts. Unable to make their 

own food through photosynthesis, truffles share 

resources with the tree. The truffles 'feed' the tree 

with water and micronutrients harvested from the 

soil in exchange for sugars, produced by the tree 

from sunlight. Truffles like rich, alkaline soils, chalky 

or lime-rich. “It’s the dog who finds truffles, but first, 

the human has to find the right place to go look for 

them. I spent many weeks studying maps and woods 

to identify the right terrain," says James Feaver, who 

still still remembers his first successful truffle hunt. 

“I was grinning like a Cheshire cat for several days.” 

The English Truffle Company sells wild truffles 

hunted by James, mostly to individual buyers who 

wish to wow their friends at a dinner party or enjoy a 

luxurious egg scramble for Christmas breakfast. On 

top of that, James runs truffle-hunting experiences 

in Dorset, Wiltshire and Hampshire. “The location 

is secret, I usually share it the night before — people 

enjoy the thrill of secrecy.” James skilfully excavates 

the first subterranean treats of the hunt and then 

everyone gets a go. He encourages people to get 

down and smell the ground ("You know you’ve had 

a good day when you go home with mud all over 

your face"). The woodland endeavours are followed 


TRUFFLE HUNTING 

by an afternoon tea and a sample of a simple truffle 

dish, like truffle-infused scrambled eggs. James 

shaves some of the truffles found on the day, only 

hours out of the ground, making it the freshest 

truffle dish most people have ever tasted. “I don’t 

actually eat that many truffles,” he chuckles when I 

ask about his favourite truffle recipes. “My partner 

hates them. She needs the car windows down if we 

drive somewhere after I’d been hunting, the truffle 

smell gives her a headache.” James recommends 

starting with classic, simple dishes, like eggs, buttery 

risottos or creamy pastas — you can’t go wrong with 

fat, which is known to be a potent flavour carrier. 

The first account of English truffles comes from 

1693 and the last truffle hunter of the previous 

millennium, Alfred Collins, retired in the 1930s. 

Following the recent renaissance of foraging and 

wild foods, British chefs became increasingly 

passionate about using local truffles. Harriet 

Mansel, the head chef at Robin Wylde, a restaurant 

serving seasonal, local produce in a former 

pottery shop in Lyme Regis in Dorset, sources her 

ingredients from the West Country or forages them 

herself along the local coastline, hedgerows, moors 

and fields. "It's on my radar to try and figure out 

how and where to forage local truffles. Last time 

we had them on the menu it was a classic autumnal 

feel; celeriac velouté with chestnut mushrooms and 

truffles. It’s important we use British truffles, we 

would never import them.” 


‘ 

Wiltshire Truffles supplies some of the best restaurants in the country, 

including Heston Blumenthal’s The Fat Duck and Frog by Adam Handling 

’ 

Steven Edwards, the winner of 2013 MasterChef: 

The Professionals, gets to celebrate British produce 

in his weekly tasting menus at etch. in Hove. He 

pairs truffles with mushroom, venison, celeriac 

and Tunworth cheese, as well as creating truffle 

puddings, like chocolate fondant with truffle ice 

cream. His black fragrant fungi always come from 

Wiltshire: "We get our truffles from Wiltshire 

Truffles, where we have highly regarded and 

trustworthy suppliers in Zak Frost and his wife Nina. 

We love promoting great British produce and are 

very happy with the quality.” Zak, best known for the 

black autumn truffles he hunts personally in a secret 

location in Wiltshire, also imports aromatic beauties 

directly from trusted hunters abroad. Wiltshire 

Truffles supplies some of the best restaurants in 

the country, including Heston Blumenthal’s The 

Fat Duck and Frog by Adam Handling. To try Zak’s 

truffles in a countryside setting in Wiltshire, head 

to The Red Lion Freehouse in East Chisenbury, a 

family-run restaurant in a whitewashed, thatchedroofed 

building of an 18th-century village pub. 

Zak’s truffles come to the menu in autumn, where he 

starts hunting for them. 

Today, Zak supplies home chefs with fresh 

truffles from a new online shop, making it possible 

to celebrate the English truffle season from the 

comfort of your own home. 

Truffle and Mushroom Hunter hosts truffle hunts 

and mushroom forays in Sussex. Melissa is planning to 

launch a UK Truffle Hound Championships and a truffle 

festival in November: truffleandmushroomhunter.com 

The English Truffle Company sells fresh truffles and 

runs truffle-hunting experience days in Dorset, Wiltshire 

and Hampshire throughout the season: 

englishtruffles.co.uk 

Wiltshire Truffles supplies almost all of the UK’s 

leading restaurants, as well as offering a new online shop 

for home users. They sell fresh truffles and their own 

luxurious truffle juice, used in Michelin-starred kitchens 

and now available for creative home chefs: 

wiltshiretruffles.com/shop 


Olive Tree House, Sussex 

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SPECIAL FEATURE 

MAMMA MIA! THE PARTY 

London’s premier dining experience 

Created by ABBA’s Björn Ulvaeus, MAMMA MIA! THE 

PARTY is a unique and magical experience in a class 

of its own, bringing all ABBA’s hits to life more vividly 

than ever before: over the course of four glittering 

hours, guests can immerse themselves in a spectacular musical 

extravaganza, a four-course Greek feast and an ABBA disco, all in 

one unforgettable evening of dancing, dining and singing! 

MAMMA MIA! THE PARTY is set in a taverna on the beautiful 

Greek island of Skopelos, where most exteriors of the first 

MAMMA MIA! film were shot. Nikos and his wife Kate run this 

exotic and wonderful restaurant together with their family and 

friends. Told through dialogue and timeless ABBA songs, a warm, 

romantic and funny story evolves and unfolds during the evening, 

ending with a 1970s disco, where audience members are welcome 

to stay to sing and dance to ABBA recordings. 

Food is at the heart of the experience and a menu has been 

created that collects the finest Greece has to offer, made from the 

best, freshest ingredients. Guests are served a traditional mezze 

followed by iconic Greek salad of fresh cherry tomatoes, cucumber 

and feta. For the main course, confit lamb shoulder and slowcooked 

beef are served with roasted garlic potatoes, courgettes, 

peperonata, romesco and aromatic jus. 

For vegetarian and vegan guests, there is roasted cauliflower 

with a lemon-herb dressing and stuffed tomato with lentil ragout. 

A sumptuous Greek lemon cake served with confit orange skin 

and citrus yoghurt is the perfect end to this delicious meal. Vegan 

guests are served traditional loukoumades, delicious dough balls 

accompanied by a sweet fig jam. ◆ 

Bookings are open now until Sunday 26 February 2023. 

Showing at The O2, Peninsula Square, London SE10 0DX, ticket 

prices from £99 to include admission, a four-course set meal and 

welcome drink. Platinum Package and VIP Upgrades also available; 

mammamiatheparty.co.uk 


meet the chef 

STAR MAN 

This year, Simon Rogan’s L’Enclume celebrated its 20th anniversary 

and became one of only eight restaurants in the UK and 135 

restaurants worldwide to receive three Michelin stars. Here, the 

world-renowned pioneer of field-to-fork dining tells Chantal Haines 

about the toil, the soil and the ambition it took to get there 

Text by Chantal Haines 

In February 2022, Simon Rogan’s flagship restaurant 

L’Enclume was awarded its third Michelin star – an 

incredible feat for any restaurant, but for this Lake 

District enclave, which has blazed its own trail in 

field-to-fork dining, sustainable growing and hyperlocal 

produce, it is all the more extraordinary. 

Set in the picturesque Lake District village of Cartmel, 

L’Enclume is the first restaurant in the north of England 

to lay claim to three stars, and the prestigious award has 

come at a pivotal time for Rogan. “It’s L’Enclume’s 20th 

anniversary this year. It’s every chef’s ambition to get 

three stars so to succeed on the 20th anniversary is pretty 

special. We're all over the moon about it,” he says. 

“I would have hoped it could have been a bit quicker,” 

Rogan quips. “But no, in all honesty, I don't really care 

when we got it – we have achieved what I set out to do 20 

years ago and that’s a fantastic feeling.” 

As a young chef he undertook an apprenticeship 

for around four and half years at Rhinefield House in 

the New Forest getting a first-rate classical grounding 

in cookery, and spent eight years on and off working 

with Jean-Christophe Novelli – a chef he still notes as his 

biggest inspiration. Rogan also undertook stints working 

at The Maltster’s Arms in Devon (then owned by Keith 

Floyd) and stage placements under other era-defining 

chefs, including Marco Pierre White and John Burton- 

Race, before going out on his own and opening his debut 

restaurant, L’Enclume. 

A Lake District love affair 

L’Enclume, and Rogan’s multiple offshoot outposts, are 

riding high now, but when he first set up in Cartmel two 

decades ago, organic produce and kitchen gardens were 

all but scoffed at, and fine dining was centered resolutely 

in London or the south, at least. 

“In the early years, it was a bit of a struggle. We didn't 

really have many customers during the week, maybe 

getting to the teens around the weekends. And it was even 

more of a risk with the product we wanted to provide – I 

had developed an interest very early on in my cookery 

journey with foraging. While working at Rhinefield House 

we would always go out foraging to pick mushrooms 


and wild herbs and I had always wanted to revisit that. 

“I was also heavily influenced by the work of a chef 

called Marc Veyrat in the Alps who uses a lot of herbs, 

flowers and roots in his cookery. I wanted to really look 

at our surroundings and what the larder was around the 

restaurant and really connect our cooking to the area and 

create a destination restaurant.” 

“I wanted to work for myself and be in control of my 

own destiny. The honest reason I chose this particular 

area and this particular restaurant was basically you 

got more for your money. It would have cost me a lot of 

money in either borrowings or taking on an investor to get 

something as good in the south and we were always very 

clear – we didn’t want to have to answer to anyone.” 

Thankfully, word did spread and the restaurant, situated 

in a former 13th-century blacksmith’s workshop in Cartmel, 

began to attract customers from all around the UK. 

“We started attracting people from London, the south 

lot more. We got pretty good at it and radishes turned to 

carrots and turnips, which turned to leeks and lettuces 

and cabbages and kale, and before we knew it we were 

growing everything. Then as the restaurants got busier 

and busier, we needed to grow our farming operation to 

cope with that level of trade. 

In 2009, Rogan set up Our Farm, his 12-acre growing 

site in the Cartmel Valley. It is here where Simon and 

his team work throughout the year to grow vegetables, 

herbs, fruits and flowers, and trial innovative farming and 

growing methods. 

“It was originally an open field site that had no growing 

on it before, and we've created everything from scratch. It 

was all very pretty in the beginning, with lovely ornamental 

paths and nice, neat rows of perfectly manicured beans 

and squash, but now there's none of that! Every centimetre 

of ground is taken up for growing. I always envisioned that 

we would have a growing operation of some sorts but I 

“ 

Most importantly it's the right thing to do. If you've got the opportunity to 

grow your own and limit your carbon footprint and look after your environment 

and the people around you then it's a no brainer, right? 

” 

east, and the major cities around the UK. I had learnt from 

Novelli that PR is part of the game and we began to get into 

the papers and the nationals. And the rest is history, really." 

Farm to fork 

Rogan uses hyperlocal and seasonal ingredients in his 

tasting menu at L’Enclume and is recognised as one of the 

pioneers of the farm-to-fork movement. 

“When we first opened, organic produce was 

extortionate, so we couldn't afford to buy all organic 

ingredients, but we bought a few items and I asked a local 

farmer to grow some herbs and produce. To cut a long 

story short, the farm went to rack and ruin and we offered 

to take it over. 

“The first thing we started growing was radishes – 

because I was so frustrated I couldn’t get the perfect 

radish when it's one of the simplest things you can grow. 

In those days the standard of produce we would buy in 

could be pretty poor, so that pushed us into growing a 

didn't really forsee how extensive that would become. It’s 

become a bit of a monster but we are very proud of it.” 

The son of a market greengrocer, Rogan says that though 

a fussy eater when a youngster, his exposure to ingredients 

from an early age – when his father would come home every 

evening with a box of the day's best freshest produce – first 

sparked an interest in seasonal fare and foraging. 

The ingredients used in his restaurants come from Our 

Farm as well as trusted, long-standing suppliers, enabling 

Rogan to deliver on his intense commitment to fresh, local 

and seasonal produce and a truly traceable dining experience. 

“Most importantly it's the right thing to do. If you've 

got the opportunity to grow your own and limit your 

carbon footprint and look after your environment and the 

people around you then it's a no brainer, right? 

“And the quality and the creativity that comes with that 

is really special – we don't like to waste anything, we like 

to use every part of an ingredient so that really drives your 

ingenuity.” 


Star ingredients 

At Our Farm, Rogan and his team grow 

a mind-boggling array of unusual and 

exciting ingredients – all produced 

organically, to their exacting specifications 

– such as Japanese wineberries, elkhorn 

fern and buck’s-horn plantain. And with 

harvest to plate often taking place in less 

than an hour, the quality and freshness sets 

his dishes apart from the competition. 

“Using every part of that plant – the 

root, the stem, the leaf, the flower, the 

fruit – gives us that connection to our 

surroundings that's so important these 

days. Customers really appreciate that 

connection to the surroundings now.” 

Together with a handful of other chefs, 

Rogan has turned zero-waste dining into a 

high-calibre offering. 

“Dishes like our brined cabbage have 

become synonymous with L'Enclume's style 

and ethos,” Rogan says. “It’s cookery that 

really that makes the vegetables sing and 

lets them be at the forefront of the dish 

rather than animal proteins. For our simple 

cabbage dish we treat it like a piece of 

meat and give the cabbage the same care 

and attention as we would a prime cut. We 

brine it in dill, then roast it over Chinese 

charcoal and serve it with a fermented 

mushroom sauce, truffle puree, and a 

horseradish mousse over the top and lots 

of grated truffle – so very tasty and lots of 

layers of flavour. And you know, if you eat 

something like that you'll wonder why you 

would ever want to eat meat again.” 

Michelin and more 

As one would expect, L’Enclume’s meteoric 

success has created opportunities for 

expansion. In 2008, Rogan opened his 

neighbourhood restaurant, Rogan & Co, 

FIRST PAGE: SIMON 

ROGAN COLLECTING 

HIS ORGANIC 

INGREDIENTS FROM 

CARTMEL FARM 

PREVIOUS PAGE: 

ORGANIC PRODUCE 

GROWING AT 

CARTMEL FARM THIS 

PAGE: L’ENCLUME 

RESTAURANT IN 

THE LAKE DISTRICT; 

CARROT CRAB TART 

WITH BUTTERMILK 

ROSES; RAW MILK ICE 

CREAM PEACH SWEET 

CICELY; CARTMEL FARM

“ 

It was always my ambition that when I hang up my apron people might 

turn around and say, ‘well, that guy really made a difference’. 

” 

which is situated in an 14th-century building beside the 

River Eea in Cartmel and received a Michelin star in 2019. 

Rogan also runs Aulis Cartmel, a development kitchen 

and chef's table, and operates 16 bespoke bedrooms and 

suites around the village. In 2019 Rogan branched out 

further, opening Roganic Hong Kong, which received its 

first Michelin star within ten months of opening. 

In 2021, Simon's efforts towards sustainability were 

recognised with the newly introduced Michelin Green Star, 

awarded to both L'Enclume and Roganic Hong Kong. 

Aulis London, his eight-seat chef’s table in Soho, offers 

a dynamic, interactive dining experience with a 13-course 

tasting experience cooked in front of the guests. “People 

absolutely love it,” Rogan explains. "And it's probably 

been the inspiration for a lot of other chef’s tables around 

the UK, to be honest. If you're a foodie it's the greatest 

table you can get because you're face to face with the guys 

that know everything about the dish, its story, its execution 

and the reason for its existence.” 

Winning the coveted third Michelin star and passing 

the 20th anniversary milestone has given the chef–owner 

cause for reflection. 

“When we set out, I was always clear on the accolades 

I wanted to achieve but I also wanted to be someone that 

sort of made a difference. During the '80s and the '90s 

you had the Roux brothers, then Marco [Pierre White], 

John Burton-Race and so on, and if I could achieve half of 

what they did I’d be happy. 

“It was always my ambition that when I hang up my 

apron people might turn around and say, ‘well, that guy 

really made a difference’. And I'm very humbled to see a 

lot of guys that worked for me go out now and have their 

own success – that's what I wanted to do – I wanted to 

spawn a whole new generation of people that were going 

to go off and do even greater things. 

“That drives me as well, to get better and push 

forward. Because when I see our guys have their own 

success and I see things sprung from the L’Enclume 

philosophy it motivates me to stay at the forefront. I kind 

of think, ‘Ok, catch me again if you can’.” 

And what of the next 20 years? “We carry on! I always 

thought, come the third star I'd feel like I had had my 

innings, but if anything, I feel invigorated. So, I guess 

there’s still life in the old dog yet.” 


WONDER 

IN WALES 

CELTIC ROUTES 


Follow in the footsteps of the ancient Celts on an adventure of 

a lifetime in West Wales. Celtic Routes is an epic journey through 

the scenic counties of Carmarthenshire, Pembrokeshire and 

Ceredigion. Feel enthralled by the wonders of our natural world – a 

region rich with wildlife, mountains and waterfalls. Feel inspired 

by the ancient castles and historic landmarks, and come alive 

exploring miles of pristine golden sand and spectacular vistas... 

CELTIC ROUTES 



Celtic Routes is a newly launched touring 

route designed to inspire intrepid travellers to 

experience West Wales and Ireland's Ancient 

East under their own steam, be that a day 

exploring one of the towns, a long weekend discovering a 

stretch of coastline, or a week-long action-packed holiday. 

The Celtic Routes website (celticroutes.info) is 

designed with a diverse range of immersive experiences 

to make it easy for you to become the curator of your own 

Celtic Routes experience. 

Naturally, some of these places are more well-known, 

but many of them take you off the beaten track on roads 

less travelled – helping you delve closer to the Celtic Spirit, 

exploring the outstanding land and seascapes, rugged 

mountains and ancient standing stones. Here are just 

some of the highlights of my own magical journey. 

Carmarthenshire 

Day One 

Our first Celtic Moment was at Pendine Sands, where we 

stopped to visit the Cambrian Ice Cream Parlour. Taking 

a short stroll along the Wales Coast Path, we enjoyed our 

coffee and ice-creams while admiring the long stretch of 

beach from a dizzying height. 

The vast stretch of sand is home to numerous land 

speed records and so it came as no surprise to watch 

thrill-seekers and racing land-yachts below – an activity 

involving sitting in a three-wheeled go-cart powered by 

wind through the use of a sail – travelling at speed just 

inches above the sand. 

The areas you can drive cars on the beach are limited 

now, but Pendine Sands still holds a special place in the 

heart of many racing-car enthusiasts (the world record 


‘ 

Taking a short stroll along the Wales 

Coast Path, we enjoyed our coffee and 

ice-creams while admiring the long 

stretch of beach from a dizzying height. 

’ 

through the centre of Laugharne. Just behind the 

hotel is SeaView, a pretty pale-yellow house where 

Dylan and wife Caitlin once lived, now a B&B. 

There’s a great community spirit to Laugharne, 

quaint gift shops, lively pubs and a local chippy – 

Castle Fish Bar, offering cockles harvested from 

Carmarthen Bay. In the centre of Laugharne is the 

Grist, marked by a Celtic Cross, where Methodist 

leader John Wesley is said to have preached to the 

townsfolk. (The name reflects the fact that a former 

grist mill was located here.) 

Crossing the bridge over the River Coran is 

when the stunning panorama comes into focus – 

glistening waters and a shimmering harbourside 

lined with colourful old fishing boats and the 

'brown as owls' castle, where Dylan would write 

away high up in the ramparts, majestically perched 

on the headland above. 

There are birds wading on the water edge, 

and blankets of green headland from the Gower 

Peninsula in the distance – it's a wonderful moment 

to pause and catch your breath. 

At low tide we were able to follow the coastal 

trail all the way to the best-loved attraction in 

Laugharne: Dylan Thomas Boathouse, where 

Dylan lived with Caitlin and their three children, 

Aeronwy, Llewellyn and Colm. 

was broken here) – with plenty of petrolhead memorabilia 

adorning the walls in the cafes and bistros. Next year (May 

2023) the beach will hold the tenth-year anniversary of the 

award-winning Hot Rod Races event – the world’s fastest and 

most exciting beach-racing competition. 

You could easily spend a few days here, feeling the wind in 

your hair on an invigorating horse ride along the beach perhaps, 

or hiring a sea kayak or paddle board from Chad and Olly’s 

Beach Hut. 

In the afternoon we made our way to the delightfully 

peaceful town of Laugharne, synonymous with poet Dylan 

Thomas. Set in a picturesque location on the estuary where the 

River Taf flows into Carmarthen Bay, the views might even be 

familiar from your TV screen (the location was chosen for the 

filming of Keeping Faith, a BBC drama series starring Eve Myles). 

We parked and checked-in at Brown’s Hotel before wandering 


number out as his own. The hotel is clearly proud 

of their literary legend, with his poems and quotes 

adorning the walls. Brown’s is today owned by 

Nigel Short, who also runs Penderyn Whisky, so 

the bar is always well stocked. The restaurant – 

Dexter’s at Browns – is named after the breed of 

cattle which makes up the hotel's own herd, which 

is reared on nearby Llywn Farm. (Prices from £95 

for one night; browns.wales.) 

The house is now a visitor museum, shop and tea room, and 

contains Thomas memorabilia and some of the original 

furniture, including Dylan's father's desk. You can also take a 

tour of the Writing Shed perched above the Boathouse where 

Dylan wrote much of his poetry and also his famous radio 

drama, Under Milk Wood. 

You might also enjoy: The Dylan Thomas Birthday Walk: a 

2-mile route to the edge of Sir John’s hill – the same walk Dylan 

famously took on his 30th birthday – with a series of benches 

inscribed with lines from Poem in October, and information 

panels telling the history of the area. 

Day Two 

We headed to Colby Woodland Garden for our 

weekly dose of Parkrun – a 5km running event that 

takes place at 9am every Saturday across hundreds 

of locations in the UK. Set in a tranquil secret valley, 

this hidden woodland garden has a rich industrial 

past and is owned by the National Trust, and makes 

a lovely day out. 

In search of some more Welsh history, our next 

visit was to Dinefwr Estate and Castle just outside 

Llandeilo, where Lord Rhys once held court and 

influenced decisions about Wales. You need to 

allow around two to three hours to explore this 

stunning 800-acre estate. It’s a beautiful walk 

through bluebell woods to get to the castle, where 

your effort is rewarded by 360-degree views 

overlooking the Tywi Valley and open countryside 

from the castle walls. Be prepared before you set off 

though, as there are no refreshments. 

Where we stayed: Brown’s Hotel 

We couldn’t have asked for a more welcoming, cosy and 

atmospheric boutique hotel for our first night in Wales. It is 

easy to see why Brown's was Dylan’s favourite too – he drank 

there most nights, playing shove halfpenny, darts and skittles, 

and even called in for tea and breakfast most mornings. In fact, 

he was there so often that he would even give the hotel phone 


FIRST PAGE: BOAT TRIP TO 

SKOMER ISLAND TO SEE PUFFINS 

PREVIOUS PAGE LEFT TO RIGHT: 

CARMARTHENSHIRE COAST; 

JESSICA ON THE COAST PATH AT 

PENDINE SANDS; SEAVIEW, THE 

FORMER HOME OF POET DYLAN 

THOMAS CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: 

DYLAN THOMAS' WRITING SHED; 

VIEWS FROM DINEFWR CASTLE; 

MAP OF JESSICA'S JOURNEY NEXT 

PAGE: PRETTY MARKET TOWN OF 

LLANDEILO; JESSICA SITS ON A 

ROCK AT AMROTH; NEWTON HOUSE 

Illustration by Tonwen Jones 


Back in the estate, surrounded by a National Nature 

Reserve, we spent just over an hour exploring the 

wonderful 18th-century Newton House and reading 

more about the history of Dinefwr. Here you can join a 

guided tour, watch the roaming deer from the fountain 

garden – where often there is live music – and don’t miss 

the binoculars in the upstairs stone balcony orangery for a 

better view of the does, stags and their fawns. 

We spent the rest of the afternoon pottering about 

in the colourful, picturesque market town of Llandeilo, 

scattered with an array of small independent shops, 

galleries and cafes. We chatted to ceramic artist Ann 

Goodfellow, owner of Ivy House as we marvelled over the 

work of local artists, and enjoyed Welsh coffee cakes at 

DIOD’s, where there is a relaxed Scandi-Welsh vibe. 

On our way back to Brown’s we stopped in Carmarthen 

and enjoyed dinner at The Warren, where the chef has 

recently been awarded Chef of the Year from The Food 

Awards Wales for his honest and wholesome food. 

You might also enjoy: Aberglasney Gardens, with a unique 

cloister garden and formal walled gardens dating back to 

Elizabethan times – you’d be forgiven for thinking you’d 

wandered onto the set of a period drama. 


Pembrokeshire 

Day Three 

The sun was shining so we decided to make our way to the 

stunning wide, south-facing, uncrowded blue-flag beach of 

Amroth. Driving through the quaint village evoked the first 

of many “would you live here?” tests, to which "yes" was the 

unanimous reply. We went for a blissful dip in the sea and 

relaxed for a while on the uncrowded beach. 

The New Inn, a 16th-century pub with coastal views 

serving home-made food and local fresh fish was the 

perfect spot for lunch and to watch the windsurfers. We 

spent the afternoon at Minwear Woods where we took a 

peaceful Sunday afternoon stroll. There are a selection of 

walking trails – we chose the 1.5 mile Minwear Walk, taking 

around an hour. 

You might also enjoy: Walking the Pembrokeshire Coast 

Path (Amroth marks the southern start), or during low tide 

walking 3 miles from Amroth to Saundersfoot. 

Where we stayed: The Grove, Narberth 

The Grove is one of the most luxurious hotels in Wales, 

nestled in the heart of Pembrokeshire with views to 

the Preseli Hills. Stay in the elegant house or one of 

its charming cottages and enjoy sitting outside in the 

manicured lawns by the pretty flower borders and 

meandering stream. Inside is equally as exquisite; 

bedrooms are luxurious havens with original features 

and full of character. There are two restaurants: the finedining 

Fernery, which has been awarded three coveted 

AA Rosettes, and the more relaxed and informal Artisan 

Rooms. For guests in need of pampering there are deep 

cast-iron baths and in-room massages. One mile down 

the road, the market town of Narberth is full of interesting 

independent shops, including Ultracomida – one of the 

best delis in the country, with a small dining area at the 

back it's a delightful spot for a continental lunch. (Prices 

from £245 per night, prideofbritainhotels.com.) 


‘ 

It’s easy to imagine you’re the only person in 

the world here; being off-the-beaten-track, 

it's not unusual to have the beach all to yourself 

’ 

Day Four 

Just as we thought the beaches in Wales couldn’t be any more 

beautiful, we discovered Barafundle Bay – pristine golden sand 

and crystal-clear waters, backed by dunes and pine trees. It 

could be easily mistaken for the Caribbean. 

Owned by the National Trust, Barafundle Bay is only 

accessible by foot (it's a half-mile walk from the car park over 

Stackpole Head). This secluded location certainly adds to its 

charm – it’s easy to imagine you’re the only person in the world 

here; being off-the-beaten-track, it's not unusual to have the 

beach all to yourself. It comes as no surprise that Barafundle 

has been voted many, many times as one of the best beaches in 

Britain and the world. 

Next we explored Carew Castle and Tide Mill, an enormous 

stone castle in a picturesque location next to the mill pond that 

powers the tide mill, once a powerful stronghold and a grand 

Elizabeth mansion. The tour guides here are brilliant, full of 

fascinating anecdotes and little-known facts. In the afternoon 

we headed to Tenby ambling the busy streets, 

gift shopping, eating ice-creams and admiring 

the pastel-coloured buildings and three glorious 

beaches – there's also no shortage of restaurants, 

cafes and pubs to refuel. 

You might also enjoy: Taking a boat ride to Caldey 

Island to see the Cistercian monastery. The 

monks make and sell their own lavender perfume 

and shortbread and you can purchase their own 

postage stamps and currency in the post office. 

Day Five 

From Marloes Sands on the West Pembrokeshire 

Coast, we hiked along the coast path to Martin’s 

Haven, taking a short detour inland to Runwayskiln 

coastal kitchen for a delicious alfresco lunch, and 

arriving at Martin’s Haven just in time for our boat 

trip to Skomer, Skokholm and Grassholm islands. 

As a Site of Special Scientific Interest, this trio of 

neighbouring islands is a haven for spotting many 

fascinating species, including puffins, razorbills, 

gannets, guillemots, manx shearwaters, grey 

seals, dolphins, whales and porpoises – another 

unmissable experience. 

You might also enjoy: Continuing further along the 

coast path from Martin’s Haven, with St Bride’s Bay 

to your left, and stunning views of the Solva Coast, 

St Davids Peninsula and Ramsey Island. 


‘ 

For the most epic 360-degree views – on a 

clear day reaching as far as Snowdonia and 

Ireland – head to the hill top of Foel Drygarn 

’ 

Where we stayed: Twr y Felin Hotel, St Davids 

A former windmill and Wales' first modern art hotel, featuring 

contemporary design throughout, Twr y Felin Hotel is decorated 

from floor to ceiling with colourful abstract artwork – chosen to 

evoke the Pembrokeshire landscape. The creativity doesn’t end 

there either, the chefs in award-winning two Rosette restaurant 

Blas are renowned for their flair in the kitchen – with guests and 

non-guests dining there alike. 

Bedrooms are luxurious and uncomplicated, with private 

terraces and balconies. More time and I would have opted for 

one of their complementary therapy experiences: Qi Gong 

Meditation or Reiki. They also offer a range of natural holistic 

treatments in their calming treatment room, as well as yoga and 

coastal foraging. (Prices from £180 per night for two sharing, 

twryfelinhotel.com.) 

If you enjoy the water and being outdoors you 

have come to the right place – with TYF adventures 

(they have a booking office in the high street) at the 

heart of the action – coasteering, kayaking, surfing, 

climbing, wild swimming – you name it. 

The trendy new place to be is Grain, a lively 

restaurant in the heart of the town serving stonebaked 

pizzas and award-winning Pembrokeshire 

craft beer. Or, head to the National Park Visitor 

Centre and Landscape Gallery located opposite the 

hotel, which provides all the information you could 

possibly need for exploring the Pembrokeshire 

Coast National Park. 

Twr y Felin also makes a perfect base for 

exploring the Preseli Hills. For the most epic 

360-degree views – on a clear day reaching as far 

as Snowdonia and Ireland – head to the hill top of 

Foel Drygarn. Then, from the village of Mynachlogddu 

head towards the Bluestones Monument 

(where some of the stones from Stonehenge 

originated), to Carn Bica then follow the path 

down to Bedd Arthur (Arthur’s Grave) a small 

stone circle claimed by local folklore to be the final 

resting place of King Arthur. 

You might also enjoy: Jumping off the harbour wall 

in high-tide in the village of Solva – for views there's 

the Gribbin coastal walk, or head to The Royal 

George Inn for a hearty and well-earned pub meal. 

Day Six 

From the hotel it is a short stroll into St Davids, Britain's smallest 

city, where you will find plenty of cafes, pubs and the Cathedral. 

The city has a trendy ‘surf’ vibe, with a mixture of independent 

shops – including unsunghero with its underground skate cave, 

funky custom-made boards and Steve the barista serving 

excellent coffee – or for the more well-known stores there's Crew 

Clothing, Joules and FatFace. 


PREVIOUS PAGE LEFT TO RIGHT: VIEW OF BARAFUNDLE 

BAY; PUFFINS ON SKOMER ISLAND; PRESELI HILLS 

AND ARTHUR'S GRAVE; TYF ADVENTURE HIRE, ST 

DAVIDS; LEFT TO RIGHT: ST. CRANNOG’S STATUE, 

LLANGRANNOG; ABERAERON; VIEW OF THE CAMBRIAN 

MOUNTAINS FROM DEVIL'S BRIDGE FALLS 

IMAGES JESSICA'S OWN © VISITWALES/DREW BUCKLEY/SHUTTERSTOCK 

Ceredigion 

Day Seven 

The coast is an absolute must-see in this region of West 

Wales. Cardigan Bay is home to Europe's largest pod of 

Bottlenose Dolphins, and many of Ceredigion beaches 

are secluded coves that can only be reached on foot or by 

boat. One of our absolute favourites is National Trust’s 

hidden cove, Mwnt – picture postcard perfect with a little 

whitewashed chapel and several steps down to the shore. 

Aberporth, once an important village for herring fishing, 

is another wonderful beach. We stopped here and walked 

the coast path (one mile) to Tresaith, named after the River 

Saith, which cascades as a waterfall over the cliffs to the 

beach. Another National Trust beauty, Penbryn can only be 

reached by meandering through some woods. Our beach 

crawl concluded at Llangrannog, where we enjoyed homemade 

food and sea views at The Pentre Arms. 

Where we stayed: Penbontbren Holiday Cottages 

Pretty in pale pink, the 1800’s chocolate-box farmhouse 

Y Ffermdy, was where we stayed; a self-catering cottage 

sleeping seven with its own three-acre garden. 

Low-beamed ceilings, a huge inglenook and exposed 

stone walls, and antique furniture gives it a snug and 

homely feel. Stacked with books and board games, there’s 

a conservatory and the choice of two sumptuous sitting 

rooms to unwind in, as you play or read. 

Hosts Richard and Kathryn (who moved to Wales 

acquiring their business during lockdown) were extremely 

welcoming and helpful with information, including 

providing map print outs, about the local area. 

On the farm there are also six luxurious B&B suites 

(5 star), including the Garden Suite, with its own private 

terrace. (Prices from £572 for four nights and £1,001 for a 

week, rarehideaways.co.uk.) 


Day Eight 

We spent our last morning in New Quay where 

we enjoyed breakfast while dolphin spotting. We 

spent some time exploring the walled garden and 

farmyard lake at National Trust’s Llanerchaeron, 

an elegant Georgian villa, designed by architect 

John Nash in 1790, before making our way to the 

colourful town of nearby Aberaeron. 

After mooching around the harbour and 

independent craft shops we stumbled upon The 

Hive by the waterside, serving fresh fish and 

seafood. I recommend their homemade honey ice 

cream (there’s a Turkish Delight version too). 

You can't tick Ceredigion off your bucket list 

without seeing the beautiful Cambrian Mountains 

and taking a visit to the world-famous tourist 

attraction Devil's Bridge Falls. We choose the 

45-minute nature trail walk with views of the 300ft 

Mynach waterfall. If you are a keen hiker then 

don’t miss the Pumlumon trails too, with more 

spectacular landscapes and climbs to the peak of 

the Pumlumon Mountain. 

Travelling through these three incredible 

counties there is excitement and intrigue at every 

turn along with a tremendously Croeso Cynnes 

Cymreig, (warm Welsh welcome), so whichever 

Celtic experiences you pick along your journey you 

can’t go far wrong. From lush rolling countryside 

and dramatic mountain ranges to the many 

idyllic unspoilt beaches, Celtic Routes delivers an 

adventure from start to finish. Memories are made 

on this route and the Celtic Spirit is infectious. 

‘ 

You can't tick Ceredigion off your bucket 

list without seeing the beautiful Cambrian 

Mountains... and Devil's Bridge Falls 

’ 

Find out more 

Jessica was hosted by Celtic Routes, a cross Irish Sea tourism 

partnership comprising the coastal communities of Carmarthenshire, 

Ceredigion, Pembrokeshire, Wicklow, Wexford and Waterford. 

These regions have joined forces to deliver a selection of curated 

travel experiences in order to encourage visitors to Ireland and Wales 

to discover the Celtic Spirit by offering a number of immersive and 

authentic Celtic experiences. To find out more visit celticroutes.info 

and also take a look at visitwales.com to help plan your trip. 



Your Gourmet 

Guide to Wales 

With Wales hosting the World Cheese Awards in November and 

one of its Welsh restaurants being voted the best in the UK, this is 

the country’s time to shine on the epicurean stage. Intrigued, Karyn 

Noble enjoys a gastronomic tour. Here are some of her highlights... 

In Wales you will find an 

abundance of incredible 

seafood to match the 

views. Whether you have 

a penchant for unique 

restaurants with rooms, a 

little poetic history with your 

puddings, clifftop dining 

and imbibing from Britain’s 

only coastal national park, 

or quietly impressive 

lakeside retreats, Wales will 

surprise and enthral you in 

equal measures. 

For too long Wales has 

hidden in the shadows 

of its more popular 

neighbours. But now we’re 

outing its most impressive 

dining destinations, along 

with tips for where to stay, 

and don’t-miss highlights 

while enjoying your foodtravel 

tour. 

Ynyshir 

The first Welsh restaurant deemed 

the UK’s best at the National 

Restaurant Awards (2022), the two- 

Michelin-starred Ynyshir in the Dyfi 

Valley is much more than a dining 

destination. It’s a ‘90s’-electronicmusic-soundtracked 

extravaganza 

in a house that was once Queen 

Victoria’s. Expect a 5.5-hour feast of 30 

indulgent courses from chef Gareth 

Ward, including local crab and lobster 

and Japanese Wagyu beef cooked on 

open fire. ynyshir.co.uk 

Where to Stay: There are three 

fully-furnished luxury tipis at 

Ynyshir, as well as eight hotel 

bedrooms. 

Don’t Miss: In-the-know locals 

love the homemade Welsh 

minted lamb pies at Tynycornel 

Hotel on Tal-y-Llyn, an exquisitely 

peaceful lakeside spot, 30 

minutes’ drive north. It also has 

rooms, if Ynshir is fully booked. 


Asador 44 

Food critic Tom Parker-Bowles 

declared it could be his favourite 

restaurant of 2020, and Asador 44 

lives up to the hype; you could easily 

find yourself believing you’re dining 

in Northern Spain rather than Wales’ 

capital Cardiff, with the restaurant’s 

huge Parilla grill and cuts of ex-dairy 

Asturias beef displayed in glassfronted 

fridges. It also has one of 

the UK’s finest Spanish red wine 

lists, and there are further excellent 

Spanish drinking experiences to be 

had at its sister Bar 44 around the 

corner, especially if you are a sherry 

connoisseur. asador44.co.uk 

Where to Stay: Open since 

June 2022, Parador 44 (upstairs 

from Asador 44) is Cardiff’s first 

food-focused luxury hotel, with 

nine boutique rooms and the 

Gonzaléz Byass guest lounge 

and pantry that’s abundant with 

Spanish treats (not to mention 

complimentary PX-Sherry-soaked 

Welsh cakes), which can be 

enjoyed on the terrace. Or for 

five-star luxury right on Cardiff 

Bay, and floor-to-ceiling water 

views, voco St Davids Cardiff has 

a peaceful perspective. 

Don’t Miss: A warm Welsh cake 

fresh from the traditional cast-iron 

griddle at Fabulous Welshcakes is 

a perfect snack before (and after!) 

exploring Cardiff Castle. 

TheWalnut 

Tree Inn 

Near the English border, 

two miles east of 

Abergavenny is Michelinstarred 

The Walnut Tree, 

with chef Shaun Hill 

overseeing operations 

since 2008. His 50+ year 

career as a chef is obvious 

and his creations are 

seemingly simple yet with a 

sophisticated understanding 

of flavour, enjoyed in an 

artwork-filled dining room 

that has an extremely loyal 

following for its local produce 

and relaxed ambience 

thewalnuttreeinn.com 

Where to Stay: The Walnut 

Tree has two extraordinary 

self-catering cottages (part 

of the Caradog Cottage 

collection) that are a pretty 

garden stroll from its 

restaurant, where you can 

soak in a clawfoot bath and 

watch the cows in a meadow 

next door. 

Don’t Miss: One of the 

highest-profile food events 

in Britain, The Abergavenny 

Food Festival, occurs each 

September, and is held 

across six different venues, 

including Abergavenny 

Castle. 


St Davids Gin 

& Kitchen 

In Britain’s smallest city of St 

Davids you’ll find this ode 

to sustainability and ethical 

eating, a lively restaurant in 

a vibrant-blue building run 

by a family of farmers who 

champion local Pembrokeshire 

produce. Along with Solva 

lobster and local oysters, 

you must try their gin, with 

botanicals foraged from the 

peninsula. 

stdavidskitchen.co.uk 

Where to Stay: Twr Y Felin (a 

9-minute walk from St Davids 

Gin & Kitchen) is Wales’ first 

contemporary art hotel, 

and has a highly acclaimed 

restaurant, Blas (below) 

Don’t Miss: Blas Restaurant, 

dark and moody, holds 

3AA Rosettes and a flair for 

capturing both flavour and ‘art 

on a plate’. 

Cliff Restaurant, 

St Brides Spa 

Hotel 

Enjoy dramatic panoramic views 

across Saundersfoot Bay with panfried 

local cod with shellfish bisque 

and mussels, or perhaps some 

Welsh laverbread (seaweed) with 

your poached eggs and mushrooms 

at breakfast. stbridesspahotel.com 

Where to Stay: St Brides Spa 

Hotel has unbeatable views from 

its 34-degree heated infinity 

pool, or for some poetic history, 

Browns Hotel in Laugharne, 

Carmarthenshire, frequented by 

Dylan Thomas, has 14 boutique 

rooms (some with double rolltop 

baths), and a self-contained 

Dylan’s Den (for seven guests). 

Don’t Miss: Tenby is a 

picturesque paradise of pastel 

houses, 13th-century stone 

walls and classic seaside resort 

tranquillity and grandeur. 


Henry Robertson 

Dining Room, 

Palé Hall 

Awarded Wales’ first Green Michelin 

star in 2021, the Henry Robertson 

Dining Room combines sustainability 

with sublime surroundings in the 

five-star Palé Hall country house 

located on the edge of Snowdonia. 

Choose from five-or eight-course 

menus celebrating Welsh seasonality 

with Japanese and Middle-Eastern 

influences from head chef Gareth 

Stevenson. palehall.co.uk 

Where to Stay: Palé Hall or 

Portmeirion (below) have 

luxurious accommodation, 

where no attention to detail or 

extravagance is overlooked. 

Don’t Miss: Portmeirion – 50 

minutes’ drive east of Palé Hall 

in Gwynedd, North Wales – is 

beyond magical: a 130-acre, 

pastel-coloured Italianate fairy 

land, with a 2 AA rosette finedining 

restaurant. 

Take a bite at one of 

Wales’ foodie events 

The Big Cheese 

It's hard to resist a festival called 

The Big Cheese, which makes 

its comeback in 2023, or for 

those who can't wait there's a 

smaller festival taking place this 

September, called the Little Cheese. 

Expect huge food halls to explore, 

street food areas, cookery demos, 

music events and all the medieval 

activities and hijinks that a setting in 

the town of Caerphilly demands. 

(Little Cheese, 3-4 September 

2022, The Big Cheese, 2-3 

September 2023) 

The Conwy 

Honey Fair 

The Conwy Honey Fair is said 

to be one of Britain’s oldest 

food festivals, dating back over 

700 years. The Royal Charter of 

Edward 1st dictates that it must 

happen on the same date every 

year – 13th September – unless 

that date falls on a Sunday, in 

which case, it moves to the 

Monday after. At the fair, you 

can expect to see honey, honeyrelated 

products, beekeeping 

stalls, preserves, sweet treats and 

other produce and crafts. 

Narberth Food 

Festival 

With food stalls, cookery 

demonstrations, music, street 

theatre and activities, this is the 

perfect Pembrokeshire day out. 

(24–25 September) 

For more information, 

see Visit Wales: 

visitwales.com/food 


WILDLIFE 

WALKS 


From its highest peaks to its urban centres, Britain is 

a wildlife wonderland where orchids reclaim defunct 

quarries, peregrine falcons nest on church towers, and 

lion’s mane jellyfish trail flowing tentacles just off our 

shores. Book author Charlotte Varela tells us more... 

Text by Charlotte Varela 

The natural world became an 

escape – even a lifeline – for so 

many of us over the course of 

the past two years. So, too, did 

our allotted daily walks; one precious hour 

to forget about everything else and relish 

streets, lanes and parks now echoing with 

birdsong rather than car horns. Walks and 

wildlife go hand in hand. 

NORTH 

When I tell someone I’m from the North 

of England, I’m often met by one of two 

responses: a quizzical, almost pitying look, or 

a question about whether I spend time in the 

Peak District or the Lake District. 

There is so much more to the North than 

mist, mizzle and the paths most trodden. 

Just off the M6 motorway and a stone’s 

throw from the city of Preston in Lancashire, 

there is a hidden oasis. 

Brockholes Nature Reserve is a lush 

retreat into wilderness, where snipe feed on 

the edges of sparkling lakes, hobbies snatch 

dragonflies from mid-air and stoats scamper 

sneakily through the shelter of flower-rich 

grassland. 

Imagine my surprise when, after pausing 

on the footpath to take a sip from my water 

bottle, a whole family of rambunctious 

stoats dove out of the grass on one side and 

tumbled into the cover of the other. 


Continue up the M6 and you’ll find yourself 

en-route to South Walney Nature Reserve in 

Cumbria. It might not have the craggy skyline 

of the Lakes proper, but it has a raw wildness 

of a different kind. A rambling, windswept, 

salty demeanour that echoes with the sounds 

of seabirds and wading birds. 

As summer melts into autumn, grayling 

butterflies bask cryptically in the sunshine and 

eider ducks, along with their young, prepare 

to vacate the shore; heading out to sea before 

migratory curlew move in. 

MIDLANDS 

The Midlands is a region of contrasts. Pockets 

of atmospheric ancient woodland stand 

defiantly in landscapes moulded by mining; 

otters wind lithely through urban rivers and 

canals; and woods, valleys and fields roll 

towards a stunning coastline. Bridleways, 

footpaths, trails and tracks wind across the 

landscape, often connecting up neighbouring 

nature reserves. It’s the perfect excuse for 

a whole day – even a whole weekend – of 

exploring on foot. 

Take Derbyshire’s Wye Valley Reserves. 

Here, three nature reserves – Miller’s Dale 

Quarry, Priestcliffe Lees and Chee Dale – 

stretch for almost four miles, connected by 

the Monsal Trail. I stepped out of the car with 

the intention of visiting just one of these wild 

places, but the Wye Valley soon drew me along 

with irresistible gifts. A dark green fritillary 

butterfly darted around old spoil heaps. 

Harebells, so delicate they could have been 

painted onto the grass in watercolour, nodded 

gently in the breeze. Then, before I retraced 

my steps to the car, my eye caught the jaunty 

bobbing of a dipper on a rock in the River Wye. 

PREVIOUS PAGE LEFT 

TO RIGHT: DIPPER 

(CINCLUS CINCLUS); 

COMMON FROG (RANA 

TEMPORARIA); EUROPEAN 

STOAT (MUSTELA 

ERMINEA) 

CLOCKWISE FROM 

TOP LEFT: GRASS 

SNAKE; WATER VOLE; 

FOUR-SPOTTED 

CHASER (LIBELLULA 

QUADRIMACULATA) 

DRAGONFLY 

NEXT PAGE LEFT TO 

RIGHT: WOODCOCK 

(SCOLOPAX RUSTICOLA); 

YELLOWHAMMER 

(EMBERIZA CITRINELLA) 


‘ 

My heart thrills whenever I visit a wildlife-friendly farm – Greystones being a 

particularly heartening example of nature and farming working hand in hand 

’ 

Whitacre Heath, too, forms a vital part of a 

connected natural landscape – this time, the Tame 

Valley Wetlands in Warwickshire. 

Pools upon wet woodland upon wet grassland 

attracts not just the who’s who of the bird world, 

but frogs and toads, which in turn entice their archnemesis: 

the grass snake. 

SOUTH WEST 

If heaven is a place on earth, that place must be 

the South West. It would be rude not to dip your 

toes into the brilliant blue waters of Lulworth Cove, 

or gently probe for weird and wonderful rockpool 

creatures in Padstow. But life doesn’t stop at the 

coast; it thrives inland, too. 

Nestled in Gloucestershire’s leg of the Cotswolds 

Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB), 

you’ll find Greystones Farm, a nature reserve 

that can be visited time and again and yet still 

surprise you. My heart thrills whenever I visit 

a wildlife-friendly farm – Greystones being a 

particularly heartening example of nature and 

farming working hand in hand. In late summer, the 

meadows beam with the colours of great burnet, 

devil’s-bit scabious and meadowsweet. 

The banks of the River Eye, left to flourish, give 

water voles a sheltered run to their favourite diving 

spots – listen for a ‘plop’ as they enter the water. 

If you really can’t tear yourself away from 

the coast, there is always Windmill Farm in 


Cornwall. I’d go so far as to say this nature reserve is the 

highlight of the Lizard Peninsula, with a mosaic of arable 

crops, heathland and boggy patches sustaining marsh 

fritillary butterflies, swallows and woodcock. There is 

even a 17th-century windmill – once the hideout of one of 

Cornwall’s most notorious gangs – to connect you to the 

local history. 

SOUTH EAST AND LONDON 

The South East of England has a special kind of magic, 

and not always in the way you’d expect. The celebrated 

white cliffs and purple heathlands overshadow overlooked 

gems that shine just as brightly when handed the spotlight. 

Tring Reservoirs (plural – four reservoirs in fact) form one of 

the best birdwatching spots in the South of England. Visiting 

them all to look for reed warblers, sedge warblers and teal 

will take around five hours, but if you’re pushed for time, 

head to Wilstone Reservoir. It hosts a fantastic heronry, and 

as the waters recede on the mudflats in autumn, you’ll find a 

hidden treasure: the rare plant, mudwort. 

Even London safeguards green escapes from the hustle 

and bustle. Camley Street Natural Park is a hop, skip and 

a jump from St Pancras and King’s Cross, yet transports 

you to another place entirely. A place where bees and 

butterflies fight for the best seat at the nectar buffet, 

fungi hide in the cool wood, and floating reedbeds help to 


IMAGES © ANDY ROUSE/2020VISION / ROSS HODDINOTT/2020VISION / TERRY WHITTAKER/2020VISION / DANNY GREEN/2020VISION / MARK HAMBLIN/2020VISION / CHRIS GOMERSALL/2020VISION 

prevent canal pollution. Plus, there’s a café – we all 

know the best walks end with cake. 

I’ve barely scraped the surface of Britain’s 

wildlife walks, but that in itself is a comfort. There 

will always be a new adventure or something to 

discover, even at a nature reserve you were sure 

you’d investigated from top to bottom. Keep 

exploring. Keep walking. 

Wildlife Walks: Get 

back to nature at more 

than 475 of the UK's 

best wild places 

Wildlife Walks is a companion 

to your discovery of nature 

across the UK. Charlotte 

Varela has created a definitive guide to Britain's 

stunning natural heritage, including woods, 

heaths, moors and wetlands all owned and 

managed by the unique network of Wildlife Trusts. 

With details about everything you could need to 

plan a walk at each nature reserve, plus hundreds 

of beautiful photographs, you’re guaranteed to 

find your next happy place. 

Charlotte Varela is the author of Wildlife Walks: 

Get back to nature at more than 475 of the UK's best 

wild places, published by Bloomsbury Wildlife and out 

now (paperback: £16.99). 

WALKS ON THE WILD SIDE 

— 

When was the last time you went for a walk? A proper walk. 

Not plodding along, head down, but casting your eyes over 

every surface, breathing in deep lungfulls of fresh air, and 

most importantly, pausing to just listen and enjoy becoming 

a part of the landscape to the wildlife around you. Here are 

some more wild spots not to be missed from around the UK: 

Brownsea Island, Dorset 

Among the best birdwatching spots in the South West, a 

breathtaking retreat for people and a haven for red squirrels. 

The Isles of Scilly 

An enchanting archipelago, home to dizzyingly diverse plant, 

animal and birdlife, from seabirds and dwarf pansies on the 

cliffs to dolphins in the crystal-clear ocean. 

Sandwich and Pegwell Bay, Kent 

One of the best places in the UK to see migrating birds, such 

as nightingales, cuckoos, sanderlings and waxwings. 

Cley and Salthouse Marshes, Norfolk 

The oldest Wildlife Trust nature reserve and one of the best 

birdwatching spots in the UK. 

Gibraltar Point, Lincolnshire 

A spectacular stretch of unspoilt coastline, with sweeping 

views out to sea and a dazzling diversity of life. 

Moseley Bog, Birmingham 

The childhood playground of J. R. R. Tolkien, where fungi fill 

the woods in autumn and Bronze Age burnt mounds allude 

to a fascinating social history. 

Wigan Flashes, Lancashire 

Lakes formed from mining subsidence form part of a wild 

mosaic of reedbed, fen, grassland and woodland. Look out 

for rare willow tits. 

Loch of the Lowes, Perth and Kinross 

Loch of the Lowes is famous for its breeding ospreys, 

and their eyrie sits just 150m from the nature reserve’s 

viewing hide. 


The 

VALLEY 

of 

PARADISE 

Set in subtropical gardens down a quiet country lane in a 

hidden corner of Cornwall, and recently re-modernised under 

new ownership, Hotel Meudon is a rare holiday gem with its own 

secluded beach, high-class cuisine and breathtaking beauty 




It is impossible not to fall in love with Hotel Meudon 

upon arrival – it evokes your senses; the sweet smells, 

popping colour and blissful ambient sounds from 

the unrivalled subtropical garden transcend you into 

another world entirely. 

The glamour and tranquillity of Meudon doesn’t end 

there, inside you become enthralled by its eccentric charm 

– full of character preserved in time and never lost. The 

lounge-like reception area is beautifully decorated with 

vintage furniture, including Nelson designed pendants and 

Santa & Cole floor lights. With jazz music reverberating 

from the Drawing Room you could easily believe you've 

timewarped back to the 1960s when the elegant bijou 

hotel first opened – and was celebrated as the most 

modern hotel in Cornwall – by Harry Pilgrim. 

We were greeted by affable staff who took our luggage 

– it was too early to check-in to our room so they warmly 

suggested taking an early-afternoon wander down to 

Bream Cove, a secluded private bay nestled at the bottom 

of their garden. Beach towels in arms and feeling as 

though we didn’t have a care in the world, we meandered 

through the picturesque meadow of giant rhododendrons, 

mimosas, gunneras, camellias, Jurassic-looking tree ferns 

and other plant-hunter finds from around the world. 

It's a fascinating stroll, the giant rhubarbs make you 

feel as though you’ve entered the film set for Honey I 

Shrunk The Kids – each leaf reaches up to seven feet tall 

and stretches over, creating huge green canopies fanning 

out from tall, thick, spiky trunks, while the 10-metre-tall 

magnolia fill the valley with colour. 

It is the Quakers we must thank initially for this nineacre 

paradise, Falmouth’s famous Fox family who owned 

the property back in the early 1800s. Their passion for 

exotic gardens set the tone and initial vision for this 

tropical splendour, with later generations adding their 

own mark. During the beginning of lockdown, new 

proprietors Kingfisher Resorts acquired the hotel from the 

Pilgrim family, who had owned the hotel for over 60 years. 


‘ 

The gardens might be Meudon’s jewel 

in the crown but the private beach cove 

is their best-kept-secret... 

’ 

explained that the name Meudon was taken from 

a nearby farmhouse which had been nicknamed 

'Mowi do Non' by the Napoleonic prisoners of war 

who built it after their home village near Paris. This 

became shortened to Meudon. Then, under the 

new ownership ‘Meudon Hotel’ has been given a 

fresh modern twist and a subtle repositioning to 

‘Hotel Meudon’. 

And it is not only the hotel name that has 

been tastefully remodelled. The sympathetic 

refurbishments have enhanced its '60s heyday – the 

original furniture has been given a new lease of life, 

including the Ercol chairs and tables on the bridge 

and a fabulous glass coffee table in the drawing 

room. Even the chairs in the bedrooms are the 

The gardens might be Meudon’s jewel in the crown but the 

private beach cove is their best-kept-secret and the new owners 

have been quick off the mark to fine-tune guest experiences 

there – from opening The Bream Box, offering barista-style 

coffee and a tempting range of pastries, treats and snacks 

(home-made chocolate brownies are delicious!) to introducing 

snorkelling, stand-up-paddleboarding and kayaking with local 

resident Dan of Little Wolf Adventures, who describes himself as 

part-man, part-fish! 

You also can’t beat a wild swim at Bream Cove – the crystalclear 

calm waters lure you in. At low tide it is possible to 

scramble over the rock pools to the sandy beach at Gatamala 

Cove and walkers can enjoy the four-mile circular walk along 

the South West Coast Path to Rosemullion Head and the 

Helford Estuary. 

Feeling fabulously refreshed after our sea swim, we made our 

way back through Meudon Woods to the hotel where we were 

shown to our Large Sea View with Balcony room by General 

Manager, Samantha Banks. Why ‘Meudon,’ I asked? Sam 


‘ 

The sympathetic refurbishments have 

enhanced its '60s heyday – the original 

furniture has been given a new lease of life 

’ 

original 1960s Parker Knoll Froxfields, restored and 

reupholstered. 

Besides the many belongings lovingly kept and 

restored there are some lovely modern design 

features too, including new bathrooms and glass 

balconies, while the Cornish toiletries, hanging clay 

tiles on the walls designed with a Cornwall crest 

and the beautiful bold artwork from local artist 

Nicola Bealing nod towards a sense of place and 

Cornish provenance. 

On the way to dinner in the hotel’s awardwinning 

Restaurant Meudon, we spot menus 

hanging on the walls from some of the world’s top 

dining establishments – including a signed menu 

from El Bulli. 

A bright-yellow sea bream with red human 

ankles and feet – specially commissioned from 

artist Nicola Bealing – greets you before the maître 

d' takes you to your table. 

Restaurant Meudon has a wonderful aura – you 

are made to feel special from the moment you 

walk in. The setting is spectacular, floor-to-ceiling 

windows allow the natural light to flood through 

to the opulent décor – think: pine parquet flooring, 

stylishly refurbished 1960s dining chair originals, 

glass chandeliers and lighting from Vistosi. Guests 

are seated with views overlooking the glorious 

Meudon gardens, and a grapevine flourishing in 

the conservatory brings the outside in. 

I ordered baked Camembert followed by 

roast south coast cod and morello cherry soufflé 

for dessert – and savoured every extraordinary 

mouthful. Menus are inspired by nouvelle cuisine, 

with fresh fish and seafood, locally farmed meats 

and seasonal game, complemented by Cornwall’s 

own natural larder: fresh ingredients grown and 

foraged in the hotel’s gardens. The chefs exquisite, 

artistic creations look as incredible as they taste. 

Found in the oldest part of the hotel, off the 

drawing room, Freddie’s speakeasy-style cocktail 

bar has everything you need for a decadent 

nightcap, from locally sourced artisan gins to 

wondrous whiskies – and even their own evening 

menu with light bites such as charred fennel and 

orange hummus charred flatbread or Fowey scallop 


OPENING PAGE: BREAM COVE PREVIOUS PAGE CLOCKWISE 

FROM LEFT: HOTEL MEUDON; JESSICA AND HER DOG POPPY; 

THE GARDEN WALK; DRAWING ROOM THIS PAGE: SEA VIEW 

SUITE; COCKTAILS AT FREDDIE'S BAR; BRAISED BEEF CHEEK WITH 

BOURGUIGNON GARNISH; DINING ROOM; DRAWING ROOM 

and crab carpaccio. Rum is my spirit of choice, so I ordered 

a Rum Mochaccino with Meudon spice and made a toast 

to a blissful day. 

A scrumptious bubble and squeak breakfast the next 

morning was the fuel needed for a coastal hike to Trebah 

Gardens. Directions are made easy – on reaching Bream 

Cove you turn right and head across the Rosemullion 

headland towards the Helford River. It is a picturesque walk 

taking you past several beaches: Cows, Porth Saxon and 

Grebe. Save yourself, though – Trebah, in similar fashion 

to Hotel Meudon (and for which it could be mistaken as its 

big sister), is also blessed with its own secluded bay at the 

bottom of the garden: Polgwidden Cove. 

You could easily spend all day exploring the four miles 

of footpaths through the three wondrous valleys, and 26 

acres of exotic blooms and champion trees at Trebah. We 

chose the river walk that cascades down to Polgwidden 

Cove, where we enjoyed a locally made Roskilly's ice 

cream before making our way back to Hotel Meudon 

along the Carwinion’s footpath through the hotel’s own 

bamboo plantation. 

Rather than making your way inland on the coastal 

path to reach the gardens, you might like to continue just 

a little further to Helford Passage and The Ferry Boat Inn. 

From here you can pop onto the passenger ferry crossing 

to Helford and the idyllic Helford Creek or simply enjoy the 

Helford River – a large estuary and popular spot for standup 

paddleboarding, boating and sailing, linking Falmouth 

Bay with the eastern side of The Lizard Peninsula. 

Or take the coast path in the opposite direction, 

heading left from Bream Cove towards Falmouth past 

Maenporth Beach and Stack Point. Once you reach 

Falmouth’s town beach, overlooked by the impressive 

Pendennis Castle, you can cross the mouth of the River 

Fal by ferry to the pretty fishing village of St Mawes, a 

must-visit spot on the Roseland Peninsula with excellent 

restaurants, pubs, shops and galleries. 

Following a long walk I rewarded myself with a 

delightful Revitalising Body and Mind massage by Emslie, 

(a wonderful therapist!) in the hotel's Sanctuary Suite. 

If you are heading to Meudon for a wellness break you 

might also enjoy taking part in a private yoga session in 

the garden or letting off some steam at one of the weekly 

fitness sessions. 

There’s a rather stylish brand-new outdoor bar too, 

where Dom, Meudon’s top mixologist will shake you up 

a cocktail of choice. Mine was their signature Cornish 

twist on a 'Bronx', using local Rosemullion Seafarers Gin, 

Martini Rubino, Noilly Prat, freshly squeezed orange and 

dashes of orange bitters – it was (just as Dom had told me 

it would be) sharp, refreshing and full of citrus zing. 

Speaking about Bream Cove, Dom also tells me 

about the Boxing Day dip – swimmers are welcomed 

after their plunge by staff with hot water bottles, nibbles 

and warming mulled wine. It seems this sublime hotel is 

prepared for every season too. 

Hotel Meudon is dog-friendly, (including the garden and 

beach), rooms cost from £129 per night B&B (based on two 

people sharing in low season); meudon.co.uk 


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THEATRE SPECIAL 

BEHIND THE CURTAIN 

Don't miss the biggest performances taking the stage 

Mary Poppins 

The magical story of the world’s favourite Nanny arriving 

on Cherry Tree Lane has been brilliantly adapted from 

the wonderful stories by PL Travers and the original 

beloved Walt Disney film, and triumphantly and 

spectacularly brought to the stage with dazzling choreography, 

incredible effects and unforgettable songs. 

Since its opening in London 18 years ago the award-winning 

stage version of Mary Poppins, continues to be a smash hit, 

having just opened in Tokyo earlier this year and Sydney in 

May where it has been received wonderfully by critics and 

audiences alike. The production has been running for over 1,250 

performances, spreading Mary Poppins ‘supercalifragilistic’ 

magic around the globe – and theatre buffs now have the 

chance to attend the final performance in London’s West End in 

the new year. ◆ 

Showing at Prince Edward Theatre, Old Compton Street, 

Soho, London W1D 4HS, ticket prices from £20; 

marypoppinsonstage.co.uk 


Les Misérables 

In celebration of the show’s 25th anniversary the latest 

production of Les Misérables has taken the world by storm 

continuing to enjoy record-breaking runs in countries 

including North America, Australia, Japan, Korea, France 

and Spain – and is now showing in the West End. 

After nearly 20 years working on the chain gang Jean 

Valjean is finally released on parole only to find that the 

yellow ticket he is required by law to display marks him as an 

outcast, an undesirable not to be trusted. 

As Valjean struggles to make his way in his new life he 

encounters the Bishop of Digne who gives him a chance to 

start again. Police Inspector Javert cannot let this man slip 

away, he is determined to bring Valjean to justice. As Valjean 

leads a new life under a new name, Javert is constantly 

looming around the corner and in the meantime revolution is 

in the air of Paris. Boublil and Schönberg’s magnificent iconic 

score of Les Misérables includes the classic songs, I Dreamed 

a Dream, On My Own, Stars, Bring Him Home, Do You Hear 

the People Sing?, One Day More, Empty Chairs at Empty Tables, 

Master Of The House and many more. 

Several of its songs have become real life anthems of 

revolution wherever in the world people are fighting for their 

freedom. Seen by over 120 million people worldwide in 52 

countries and in 22 languages, Les Misérables is undisputedly 

one of the world’s most popular and contemporary musicals. ◆ 

Les Misérables is showing at Sondheim Theatre, 

Shaftesbury Avenue, London, W1D 6BA, ticket prices from 

£10.00; lesmis.com 


The Phantom of the Opera 

The Phantom of the Opera is widely considered one 

of the most beautiful and spectacular productions in 

history. Andrew Lloyd Webber’s romantic, haunting 

and soaring score includes Music of the Night, All I Ask 

of You, Wishing You Were Somehow Here Again, Masquerade and 

the iconic title song. 

It tells the tale of a disfigured musical genius known only 

as ‘The Phantom’ who haunts the depths of the Paris Opera 

House. Mesmerised by the talents and beauty of a young 

soprano – Christine, the Phantom lures her as his protégé and 

falls fiercely in love with her. Unaware of Christine’s love for 

Raoul, the Phantom’s obsession sets the scene for a dramatic 

turn of events where jealousy, madness and passions collide. 

The Phantom of the Opera tickets remain some of the most 

popular in London after more than 30 years! 

The soaring music of this classic production has made it a 

mainstay of the West End for decades. This production is one 

that brings people back time and time again. If you’ve never 

seen it before, what are you waiting for? ◆ 

The Phantom of the Opera plays at Her Majesty's 

Theatre, Monday – Saturday 7.30pm with matinees on 

Saturday & Thursday at 2.30pm. Tickets from £22.50; 

uk.thephantomoftheopera.com 


top ten 

AUTUMN 

BREAKS 

Need inspiration for a short break? We've gathered together 

ten of the most unique luxury experiences available to try this 

autumn, from exclusive backstage tours at the opera to guided 

hikes on the Lake District’s most photogenic fells 

Text by Natalie Paris 

1 

Wild foraging in Abergavenny 

The Angel is an historic inn at the centre of 

Abergavenny’s foodie-friendly town and a 

base for foraging walks at the foot of the Black 

Mountains. Local wild food expert, Adele Nozedar, 

is the author of the The Hedgerow Handbook and 

will lead the walks, aiming to equip foragers with 

the knowledge to help them find and eat their 

own wild food. On selected dates in October 

she will help visitors discover autumn berries – 

including hawthorn, rosehips and sloes – as well 

as mushrooms and green wild food. Abergavenny 

is bursting with quality farm shops, cafes and 

restaurants, while The Angel offers not only hotel 

rooms but two comfortable cottages and a lodge in 

the grounds of Abergavenny Castle too. 

angelabergavenny.com 

One night’s B&B at The Angel costs from £167, 

including a foraging course 


2 

The Lake District’s best hikes 

How can you be sure to see 

the best of the Lake District’s 

spectacular landscapes on a 

short break? Linthwaite House is offering 

guided, all-day hikes to some of the 

region’s most photographic spots led by 

Steve Watts, an experienced fell walker and 

runner who has an in-depth knowledge 

of Lakeland life. The hikes are tailored to 

walkers’ individual interests and abilities 

and are followed by dinner at the hotel’s 

restaurant Henrock afterwards, which is 

under the guidance of Michelin-starred 

chef Simon Rogan. 

Linthwaite House has far-reaching views 

over Lake Windermere, and has a small 

lake within the grounds that is suitable for 

rowing boats. 

leeucollection.com 

A one-night Making Memories package 

from Linthwaite House costs from £830, 

based on two sharing, including dinner 

and a packed lunch and flask 


3 

Off-roading in the 

Yorkshire Dales 

Luxury spa hotel The 

Coniston is offering guests 

an adventurous way to experience 

the landscapes of the Yorkshire 

Dales, by tackling its scenic rough 

terrain in a Land or Range Rover. 

The hotel’s specially designed 

escorted tours will thrill passengers, 

overcoming both rocks and water in 

order to access the best viewpoints. 

The vehicle will be packed with 

luxury food and drink for the journey. 

Choose between a romantic trip to 

proposal-worthy spots, a relaxing 

picnic and Prosecco drive or a pies 

and pints tour that calls in at some of 

the Dales’ finest pubs. The hotel has 

70 bedrooms, plus an outdoor hot 

tub and rolltop baths for a soak with 

lake views. 

theconistonhotel.com 

One night’s B&B at The Coniston 

with a picnic and Prosecco tour costs 

from £228 per person 


5 

Wild picnics in Perthshire 

With rugged hills meeting the eye in all 

directions, the remote, wooden lunch hut 

on the Straloch Estate is a dramatic spot for 

a fresh-air feast. Picnic guests are either driven in a 

Land Rover up to the solitary hut, which is kitted out 

in sheepskins and stands in a fold of Perthshire hills, 

or they can take an hour to walk up there, on paths 

through heather and gorse. The gourmet pies, soups, 

sandwiches, brownies and pudding pots, all whipped 

up by the estate’s chef, can feed up to ten people. 

The estate offers guests a three-bedroom house and 

a two-bedroom keeper’s cottage to stay in and, from 

late September to October it is common to hear the 

roar of rutting stags. Guided walks and kayaking on 

the loch are also possible. 

straloch.com 

Three nights in a Straloch Estate cottage with a wild 

picnic costs from £180, based on full occupancy, 

excluding transport and drinks 

4 

Metal detecting in Suffolk 

Not far from the ancient Anglo Saxon burial 

site at Sutton Hoo, detectorists are curious 

as to what else lies beneath the Suffolk 

soil. Metal detecting tours give visitors a chance to 

uncover special finds in this area, which is renowned 

for its important historical and archeological 

discoveries. Offered by Butley Priory, the gatehouse 

for a former 12th-century Augustinian monastery, the 

metal-detecting tours explore pasture and farmland 

at different sites over three days. Included in the 

package is a stay at a Grade II-listed Butley Abbey 

Farmhouse, which is a mile from the filming location 

of the 2021 Netflix film The Dig. Talks from historians 

are scheduled each evening and all equipment can be 

hired at an extra cost. 

butleypriory.co.uk 

Three nights metal detecting at Butley Abbey 

Farmhouse in September costs from £950, allinclusive 


6 

Watersports in the Scottish Highlands 

Adrenaline seekers should consider the water 

sports available from boutique hotel Airds this 

autumn. With a focus on white-water rafting 

in particular, Airds offers a range of craft to tame the 

river rapids on Scotland’s West Coast. Solo guests can 

give ‘river bugging’ a go, or a pair of adventurers can 

try ‘funyakking’ in a small, inflatable kayak. Canyoning, 

gorge walking and coasteering are all also possible. 

The sports suit teenagers as well as active adults and 

the hotel, part of the Relais & Châteaux group, has 

views that stretch across Loch Linnhe to the Morvern 

Mountains. For anyone wanting to stay dry, the hotel 

can also recommend memorable cycling and hiking 

trips from its doorstep, as well as gardens to visit and 

whisky tasting in Oban. 

airds-hotel.com 

A two-night B&B stay at Airds costs from £590 

based on two sharing, with water-sports activities 

priced individually 

7 

Apple pressing and glamping in 

Cornwall 

Autumn is harvest time, with apples, 

plums and gages all ripe and ready for 

plucking from the boughs at The Fir Hill Estate 

near Newquay. Guests at this carbon-neutral yurtglamping 

site are being invited to help with fruit 

picking in the expanded orchards this season. The 

owner is keen to try a new cider press also, so guests 

who would like to make their own apple juice can 

take their haul to the cider house and create a bottle 

to take home. The 62-acre historic estate overlooks 

the Porth Reservoir and has 15 Mongolian-style yurts 

that are lined with sheep wool felt and come with 

personal firepits and barbecues. Free entry to The 

Lost Gardens of Heligan is possible, where the barn 

fills with rainbow pumpkins at this time of year. 

thefirhill.co.uk 

Three nights in a yurt at The Fir Hill Estate costs from 

£330 based on two sharing until 31 October 2022 


8 

Wye Valley electric biking 

Nestled deep in the Forest of Dean, chic boutique 

hotel Tudor Farmhouse has come up with an ideal way 

for guests to enjoy autumn displays of colour in the 

surrounding trees. Electric bikes can be hired at the property to 

take along various trails nearby. The valley should be a blaze of 

russet and gold leaves at this time, with views afforded across the 

River Wye on one trail and the chance to spot peregrine falcons 

on another. There is also a nine-mile loop suited to families. 

Massages are available post-ride, as the hotel has its own 

shepherd's hut spa cabin. Other opportunities to commune with 

nature include river swimming, picnics, forest bathing, wildlife 

safaris and guided stargazing. 

tudorfarmhousehotel.co.uk 

A two-night e-bike safari with Tudor Farmhouse costs from £650, 

with dinner, B&B, a packed ‘power’ lunch and one day e-bike hire 


10 

A shopping butler in Jersey 

Travellers who love collecting beautiful 

things can benefit from personalised 

retail therapy on Jersey island. The 

Club Hotel & Spa has a butler dedicated to shopping 

who can treat guests to a one-to-one consultation 

before they even set foot in a boutique. Laura Morel, 

a qualified stylist, will discuss guests’ individual tastes 

with them before revealing how to make the most 

of the island’s tax-free shopping opportunities. She 

knows where to find the best boutiques and markets, 

and will have access to exclusive discounts for 

designer department stores. Once back at the hotel, 

guests can relax in the world-class spa or try a tasting 

menu in Michelin-starred restaurant Bohemia. 

theclubjersey.com 

Two nights at The Club Hotel & Spa costs from 

£519, based on two sharing, and includes the butler 

experience (available Friday and Saturday) and a 

tasting menu for two 

9 

Backstage at the opera 

For opera lovers, a private backstage 

tour of the Royal Opera House hits all the 

right notes. An exclusive peek behind the 

scenes is offered by the hotel NoMad London, a 

smart, culturally sophisticated, boutique property 

that is located close to the internationally renowned 

opera house in Covent Garden. Guests will receive 

two tickets to the opera of their choice, as well as a 

tour of the Opera House prior to the performance, 

two cocktails back at the hotel and a signed Royal 

Opera House Picture Book. Major shows for the 

autumn season include Salome, Aida, Mayerling and 

La Boheme. The NoMad has artwork inspired by the 

Opera House throughout its Grade II-listed building, 

which used to be Bow Street Magistrates’ Court. 

thenomadhotel.com 

A Night At The Opera, through The NoMad 

Hotel costs from £525 B&B, with a minimum 

30-day booking lead time 


CAMPERVAN 

road trips 

With Yescapa, great British road trips are made easy, and together with 

our round-up of some of the best, your expedition should be a breeze! 

Sleep under the stars, be first on the beach, swim in the sea, toast 

marshmallows over the firepit and travel as and when you please... 

A HIGHLAND FLING WITH THE NORTH 

COAST 500 IN SCOTLAND 

Get your fill of fresh air, wide-open spaces and 

dramatic views on an epic campervan road trip 

through the Scottish Highlands on the North Coast 

500. The road trip on everyone’s must-do list, this 

circular route features a greatest-hits list of Scottish 

scenery, stretching across more than 800km of back 

roads. Skirting the coast from Inverness and the Black 

Isle, past the seaboard crags of Caithness, Sutherland 

and Wester Ross, it offers Gothic ruins, rugged 

fairways, historic castles, shingle-sand beaches, tiny 

fishing hamlets and peaty whisky distilleries. Along 

the way, the route builds as it progresses, from the 

east coast villages of Dornoch and Wick to Aultbea, 

Poolewe and Gairloch on the rugged west coast, 

where the wild peaks of Loch Maree are found. 

Finally, the road reaches Bealach na Bà, which loops 

up and over the Applecross Peninsula for an aweinspiring 

finish. 

Hire from Elizabeth. Elizabeth’s midnight blue 

executive campervan near Glasgow, is a four-berth 

Toyota Alphard camper. Comfortable and spacious 

with a fully-equipped kitchen, it’s perfect for creating a 

romantic meal for two under the stars. Easy to 

handle – it’s a first-class driving and living experience. 

Four nights from £676 


Hire from Paul. Paul’s luxurious campervan is a 

Volkswagen T5 based in Brampton, near the Lake District. 

This spacious four-berth van features a full-width bed, popup-roof 

bed, night heater, tinted windows, leisure battery, 

dining table, toilet, full kitchen, and plenty of storage. 


GETTING OFF GRID AND WILD SWIMMING IN 

THE LAKE DISTRICT 

Take a scenic road trip through the Lake District 

National Park with its 16 lakes and 214 fells. Highlights 

include Arnside and Silverdale Area of Outstanding 

Natural Beauty (AONB), with its ancient woodlands 

and meadows; Cartmel – home of sticky toffee pudding; 

Windermere, the largest natural lake in England; 

Grasmere, at the foot of several impressive fells and 

once home to William Wordsworth; and the dramatic 

Langdale Valley. 


WAKE UP WITH A DIFFERENT VIEW EVERY 

DAY ON A CAMPERVAN ADVENTURE IN 

CORNWALL 

Enjoy the freedom of the open road with nights spent 

sleeping under the stars, waking up with breathtaking 

views of the coast and countryside. There are endless 

Cornish adventures to choose from – explore the 

dramatic coastal roads and take in the beaches, 

surfing and water sports as well as dine on sumptuous 

cream teas, Cornish pasties and fresh seafood. 

Discover nearby highlights such as Mousehole, the 

Lost Gardens of Heligan, St Michael’s Mount and 

Land’s End and stay overnight at Gwithian Farm 

Campsite near St Ives, with stunning views of Hayle 

Beach (regularly featured as one of the top 10 best 

UK campsites). 

Set off in Dharma for a motor adventure with a 

difference. Based in Carnkie, just outside of Redruth, 

Cornwall, this 2015 converted Peugeot Boxer is easy to 

drive with all the modern comforts from home, including a 

hot shower system to deal with those days in the surf. 

A double bed and lovely interiors will evoke a soothing 

sleep while listening to the lapping waves. 



MEANDER THE COUNTRY LANES OF THE 

COTSWOLDS FOR A FABULOUS PHOTO TOUR 

Take the slow road to the Cotswolds, the heart of 

England, a couple of hours' drive from London. With 

800 square miles to explore, the Cotswolds runs 

through five counties (Gloucestershire, Oxfordshire, 

Warwickshire, Wiltshire and Worcestershire). Discover 

the lesser-known country lanes and travel through 

timeless scenery amid the rolling countryside. Learn 

about the history, heritage and the stories behind 

the people, the places, and the landscape, and 

make a deeper connection to this wonderful region. 

Uncover the traditional honey-coloured cottages in 

the lively market towns of Tetbury, Woodstock and 

Winchcombe, a magnet for hikers who wish to walk the 

Cotswolds Way. This trip will take you along the length 

and breadth of the boundaries as well as to the highest 

point of the region, and through its beautiful valleys 

and vales – the perfect viewpoints for fabulous photo 

opportunities and fascinating places to wander. 

Hire from Christopher. Christopher’s 1989 vintage VW 

campervan, Freda is a four-berth campervan made for 

adventure. It includes a kitchenette, a cosy living room area, 

and an extremely comfortable double bed. There is a bike 

rack on the back and rooftop storage, the van also comes with 

a BBQ / firepit, chairs and table and three hammocks. 


ART, CULTURE AND DRAMATIC SCENERY 

ON THE SOUTH DOWNS 

An exciting new route launched by Sussex Modern (a 

collaboration of artistic, cultural and wine-making 

venues) celebrates this region's modern highlights. 

Create your own route, taking in the county’s galleries, 

museums, and artists’ houses. Visit Eastbourne’s 

Towner Art Gallery, which houses a collection of 

contemporary artworks, including the work of Sussex 

born Eric Ravilious (1903–1942), who depicted the 

Sussex coastline and countryside with the likes of 

Lighthouses at Newhaven (1935), and Beachy Head 

(unfinished; c.1939). 

Based at the foot of the South Downs in Storrington, 

this comfortable and fully equipped Converted Peugeot 

Van is a four-berth with fixed double bed, and a Cabbunk 

System that can be assembled in the van cab, suitable for 

two children. Featuring an indoor shower, built-in toilet, 

and a kitchen with fridge and dinnerware, it is easy to 

drive with a powerful engine; perfect for exploring the 

rolling hills of the South Downs. There is lots to explore 

nearby, including the beautiful Seven Sisters hills, fantastic 

beaches such as Birling Gap, the Cuckmere Haven estuary 

with its paddleboarding opportunities, and excellent 

English wine vineyards such as Rathfinney and Bolney. 

Don't miss special excursions, such as to Charleston Farm 

House, historic former home to the Bloomsbury set. 



ADVENTURE ON THE NORFOLK AND 

SUFFOLK COAST 

Explore the Suffolk and Norfolk coastline, which 

offers long, wild beaches, picturesque villages, historic 

buildings, pleasant market towns, and traditional 

seaside resorts. There are also fantastic opportunities 

for wildlife spotting, as well as sampling the wonderful 

local beers and seafood that this part of the country 

is known for. The drive along the East Anglian coast 

is approximately 200 miles in length, and with so 

many places to stop along the way, there's no point 

rushing. You can do the trip in three to five days, 

depending on how many locations you want to visit. 

Norfolk highlights include The Wash – a large bay 

containing marshes and mud flats that's an important 

habitat for birds; the Victorian resort of Hunstanton, 

known for its elegant gardens and distinctive striped 

cliffs; and the pretty harbour town of Wells-nextthe-Sea, 

close to Holkham, is a good place to 

stop off for some fish and chips before making the 

20-minute drive to Blakeney Point, an important 

nature reserve that's home to England's largest seal 

colony. Suffolk highlights include Lowestoft, the UK's 

easternmost town and the first place in the country 

to see the sunrise; charming Southwold which has a 

restored 190-metre-long Victorian pier that houses 

a water clock; and RSPB Minsmere Nature Reserve 

which offers wetlands, woodlands, and beaches to 

explore on foot. There's an ever-changing array of 

fauna, including otters, red deer, bitterns, and marsh 

harriers, to spot throughout the year. 

Big Red is a fully equipped 4-berth VW Campervan is 

a late 2017 T6 High Line, newly converted to a Camper in 

2021, based in Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk. Its 2.0L 150hp 

TDI engine will efficiently power you up the steepest hills, 

and the automatic gearbox with cruise control makes 

motorway miles a pleasure. It features a RIB double bed 

on the ground floor and a second double bed up top. Big 

Red also has air conditioning to keep you cool on your 

drive and an onboard diesel-powered heater to keep you 

warm during your autumn and winter campervan trips. 

The twin front passenger seat swivels round to make 

comfortable seating for four, and a pop-in table makes for 

a great indoor dining space. The plush fully fitted kitchen 

includes a twin burner hob, a sink with onboard water 

tank, a fridge/freezer and plenty of cupboard space. If your 

adventure takes you to a campsite, Big Red can be hooked 

up to 240v mains or if you are wild camping there is a solar 

panel to charge the powerful leisure battery for the fridge, 

lighting and music. 



YORKSHIRE COAST FAMILY ROAD TRIP ON 

‘ROUTE YC’ 

A newly launched coastal driving route, Route YC, 

takes in the beautiful coastline, verdant countryside, 

nostalgic seaside towns and Northern charm of the 

Yorkshire Coast. This sequence of coastal loops 

features six adventure-filled routes, allowing visitors 

to experience the coast their way, with ideas for 

hiking, biking, water sports and more. There are also 

suggestions for towns and beaches – such as Whitby, 

Bridlington, Scarborough and Filey – to stop at along 

the way. Experience the stunning natural beauty of the 

region on a motorhome road trip, taking in highlights 

such as the birthplace of British surfing in Bridlington, 

outstanding seafood in Scarborough, coasteering in 

Thornwick Bay and birdwatching at the RSPB Reserve 

at Bempton Cliffs. 

Hire from Stephen. Stephen’s family-friendly motorhome 

from Scarborough, is a luxurious six-berth Rimor 

Katamarano motorhome with a modern kitchen including 

fridge/freeze, a large bathroom, and a drop-down double bed 

with ladders. There is a television, mood lighting, and solar 

panels, and for keen cyclists, there is a bike rack for two bikes. 

It has everything you need for a fun family camper trip. 


Yescapa is a community of nearly 500,000 users, with a fleet of around 10,000 vehicles; yescapa.co.uk 


an extravagant 

REFURBISHMENT 

It’s an historic landmark, an art deco hotel right next to the train station 

in Yorkshire’s largest city, and it recently had a nine-month, £16-million 

refurbishment. Karyn Noble experiences a luxurious weekend in Leeds at 

The Queens Hotel and also reviews its new Grand Pacific restaurant 

Text by Karyn Noble 

Icould almost count the steps from Leeds’ train station 

to The Queens Hotel, but even if I had, the minimal 

step count would’ve entirely slipped my mind when I 

opened the door to my room on the eighth floor. It was 

like walking into a turn-of-the-century film location, where I 

was looking directly at grand Grade-II-listed buildings from 

each window of my room. Before I can hang up my coat, 

I’m dazzled by the late afternoon winter sun glinting from 

the glorious lime-green patina dome atop the Corinthian 

columns of the former Yorkshire Banking Company building 

(built in 1899). I cross the glossy parquet floor to bring the 

other window’s view closer to me: the vast expanse of Leeds’ 

City Square and the classical architecture of the former 

General Post Office (from 1896) with its intricately designed 

clock tower. I wait for the director to call ‘Cut!’ on the cars 

spinning about the other-worldly metropolis below, where 

six roads meet, but there isn’t one. 

This is my reality. I turn from window to window, 

transfixed, then spot the complimentary mini-gin bottles 

accompanied by Valencian orange tonic water on the table. 

I mix my welcome cocktail into a glass adorned with slices 

of dehydrated orange and lime, and happily reconcile The 

Queen Hotel’s new-found modernity with its unique place in 

Leeds’ history. 


‘ 

It's not difficult to imagine Cary Grant once lounging in the opulent lobby, 

Laurel and Hardy dancing about the palatial ballroom or Nelson Mandela 

emerging from...the red elevators. 

’ 

Glamorous history meets multimillion-pound 

refurbishment 

First operating in 1863 as a Midland Railway hotel, the art 

deco Grade-II-listed, white-Portland-stone-clad building 

you see today was constructed in 1937 and opened by the 

Princess Royal. Back then, it was not just the first British hotel 

to have en-suite bathrooms and air-conditioning from top 

to bottom, The Queens Hotel was very much the place to be 

seen. Still today, it’s not difficult to imagine Cary Grant once 

lounging in the opulent lobby, Laurel and Hardy dancing 

about the palatial ballroom or Nelson Mandela emerging 

from one of the listed red elevators. 

As part of its nine-month, £16-million renovation, an 

additional 16 bedrooms were added, bringing the total 

to 232 rooms, all of them completely renovated but using 

a similar black, white and muted grey colour palette. 

Select one with a ‘City Square’ view for the best outlook. 

The ground floor has been totally transformed as a social 

meeting hub, and the book-shelf-lined lobby with its mix 

of plush furniture, sculpture, chandeliers, and pendant 

hanging lights offers a striking welcome as you arrive 

through the revolving glass doors towards the barrel-vaulted 

ceiling of the reception. 

Upperworth Studios and Iliard Design are responsible 

for the transformation, which sensitively enhances many 

of the hotel’s historical art deco features while seamlessly 

introducing modernised functionality. So much so that my 

initial disbelief that the red passenger elevators may be 

ornamental rather than functional proved unfounded. 

Grand Pacific Restaurant 

With design inspired by Singapore’s opulent Raffles hotel, 

the Grand Pacific restaurant in The Queens Hotel has been 

kitted out by developer Living Ventures and features nods to 

the Golden ‘20s. My first impression at dinner is of relaxed 

splendour. It all feels rather exciting to be in a high-ceilinged, 


strikingly lit (15ft bespoke chandelier!) 

circular space, where palm trees loom 

over high-backed chairs with thronelike 

drama, and the décor evokes both 

light-hearted fun and glamour. This 

translates to the drinks menu, where 

the cocktails seem incredibly popular, 

thanks to the theatrical smoky arrivals 

from the raised bar that splits restaurant 

diners from drinkers in the lounge area. 

I sip my Yuzu Negroni while pillows of 

smoke waft out of domes lifted to reveal 

Smoked Pineapple Daiquiris or Smokey 

Old Fashioneds. 

The food choices at dinner err on 

the side of comforting crowd-pleasers. 

I murmur ‘international cruise ship’ to 

myself in an attempt to describe the 

gamut of global influences. Indeed, 

the main courses are described as 

‘a mesmeric voyage of tastes from 

distant shores’, spanning everything 

from Asian-Spiced Duck Cottage 

Pie to Tempura Szechuan Sea Bass. 

Yuzu makes another appearance in 

my dessert of crème brûlée served 

with macadamia shortbread. And 

if chocolate fondant with vanilla ice 

cream and salted caramel sauce 

doesn’t make you happy enough, 

they go one step further by adding 

honeycomb-roasted peanuts. 

Everything is a dollop of ‘extra’ without 

being too avant-garde. 

Such is the warmth of service at 

Grand Pacific, that I’m recognised at 

High Tea the next afternoon by one 

of the previous night’s waiters, and I 

already feel like a regular. I’m thrilled 

to sit at yet another dramatic highbacked 

chair, where I cocoon inside, 

like being in a sun-dappled protective 

pram. A choice of loose-leaf tea is 

offered with all the accoutrements, 

along with not one but two impressive 

three-tiered courses, first the savoury 

delicacies then the sweet treats. 

Let’s start with the savouries. This 

is no mere crusts-off cute sandwich 

situation (although Coronation 

Chicken as well as Egg and Mustard 

Cress sandwiches are present). 

Instead, think: Smoked Salmon Potato 

Cake, Marinated Tuna Tartare, 

Arancini with Goat’s Cheese, Eccles 

Cake with Creamy Lancashire Cheese, 

Crumpet with Lobster Butter). The 

next three-tiered course of sweet 

treats arrive and I become gratefully 

to slide deeper into my comforting 

throne in the face of a food coma: 

Hibiscus and Strawberry Trifle, S’mores 

Chocolate Pot, Chocolate Cupcakes, 

Apple and Cinnamon Scones, 

Pumpkin Macarons, Coconut and 

Lemon Tarts and Treacle Toffees. It’s a 

delightful way to spend an afternoon, 

and the Grand Pacific High Tea 

already appears a popular choice for 

celebrations and get-togethers. 

Note: the hotel breakfast is not 

served in the Grand Pacific’s 100-cover 

dining room, but on a basement 

level of the building with more of a 

conference-room vibe, which feels 

like a missed opportunity, given the 

dramatics upstairs. 

It’s a perfunctory hot-and-cold 

buffet affair as well as a choice of 

cooked-to-order items from a short 

menu. If your room rate doesn’t include 

breakfast (you have a choice when 

booking), then brunching at one of the 

nearby cafes (see opposite page) is an 

excellent idea while exploring Leeds. 

The Queens Hotel has Classic 

Double Rooms from £139 (£163, 

including breakfast) in high season; 

thequeensleeds.co.uk 


WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK NEARBY 

— 

The sheer diversity of Leeds’ food scene could rival its 

abundance of shopping options, which is already off-thescale. 

Don’t miss our drink and dining choices, all within an 

easy walk of The Queens Hotel: 

The Owl 

Access at night is via security escort from Kirkgate Market's 

entrance, which feels very special, as does The Owl itself. 

Chefs prep the likes of sourdough crumpet topped with 

smoked cod’s roe puree and bacon jam right in front of you. 

theowlleeds.co.uk; leeds.gov.uk/leedsmarkets 

HOME 

The place for fine dining, on the banks of the River Aire at 

Brewery Wharf. Former MasterChef semi-finalist Elizabeth 

Cottam produces multicourse tasting menus (your choice of 

eight or ten courses), the service is impeccable and while the 

menu is adventurous (kudos to the Malham dessert inspired 

by Lockdown walks through the limestone landscapes of 

Yorkshire’s Malham Cove), it’s never intimidating. 

homeleeds.co.uk 

The Lost & Found Leeds Club 

This magnificent Grade-II listed building dating back 

to 1820 was restored in 2018 into a restaurant, cocktail 

bar, boardroom, secret den, and what at times feels 

like an indoor forest. The cocktails are spectacular and, 

depending on what you choose, could arrive topped 

with bubbles ready for popping, explosive fireworks, or 

in vessels big enough to share between four people. This 

is the club that brings the atmosphere if you’re ready to 

party. You’ve been warned. 

the-lostandfound.co.uk/restaurant/leeds-club 

FINT 

A wonderful choice for brunch, with a menu that caters 

well for vegans, in addition to being on the healthier side of 

usual. The setting is minimalistic Scandi. If it’s on the menu, 

don’t miss the Duck Hash: a perfectly cooked portion of 

duck leg with sweet peppers, Parmentier potatoes, spinach, 

poached egg and Béarnaise sauce. fint-leeds.com 


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TO THE FIRST CORRECT ENTRANT RECEIVED THIS ISSUE. 

HOW TO ENTER 

SIMPLY SEND YOUR COMPLETED CROSSWORD (OR THE 

ANSWERS) AND YOUR POSTAL ADDRESS BY POST TO BRITISH 

TRAVEL JOURNAL, UNIT 6, BASEPOINT, ANDERSONS ROAD, 

SOUTHAMPTON, SO14 5FE, OR EMAIL THE ANSWERS TO 

CROSSWORD@BRITISHTRAVELJOURNAL.COM 

BOOKSHELF 

We're reading... 

ACROSS 

9 Sands where racing driver J G 

Parry-Thomas died (7) 

10 Lady's maid (7) 

11 City on the Aire (5) 

12 Discouraged (7,2) 

13 Results of poor trading or 

tennis, perhaps? (3,6) 

15 Land of song (5) 

17 It fires a small bomb (7,8) 

20 Small lakes in the Lakes (5) 

22 Deep thinkers sorted this store 

(9) 

24 Waters between China and 

Korea (6,3) 

26 Key of Beethoven's Emperor 

Concerto (1,4) 

27 We raged about a cause of 

hayfever (7) 

28 Light-sensitive membranes (7) 

DOWN 

1 Never went to bed (2,3,5) 

2 Creepy-crawly (6) 

3 Jews living outside Palestine (8) 

4 Like Helen Keller, Beethoven and 

Quasimodo (4) 

5 Celebrity (6,4) 

6 Separate grain and chaff (6) 

7 Top flight Oxford hotel (8) 

8 Chewton ---, Hampshire hostelry (4) 

14 Ignored (5,5) 

16 It may leave you out of breath (6,4) 

18 Snore excluders (8) 

19 Pembrokeshire town on the 

Landsker Line (8) 

21 --- Island, home to shearwaters and 

puffins (6) 

23 --- Pool Gin, spirit of Surrey (6) 

24 White Rose house (4) 

25 One stays a long time in God's 

--- (4) 

Answers will be printed in the Spring 2023 Issue 

AT HOME IN THE COTSWOLDS: an insider’s look at the 

Cotswolds' most charming and inspirational private homes, £45, 

abrams&chronicle books | ABOUT BRITAIN; A JOURNEY OF 

SEVENTY YEARS AND 1,345 MILES: A captivating glimpse of 

Britain then and now, seen from behind the steering wheel, £10.99, 

bloomsbury.com | THE FLOW; RIVERS, WATER AND WILDNESS: 

A visit to the rapid where she lost a cherished friend unexpectedly 

reignites Amy-Jane Beer's love of rivers, setting her on a journey of 

natural, cultural and emotional discovery, £18.99, bloomsbury.com 

ANSWERS TO CROSSWORD 12 | SUMMER 2022 

ACROSS: 9 Retreat 10 Athlone 11 Duped 12 In a huddle 13 Cotswolds 

15 Swoon 16 Business end 20 Aesop 22 Sommelier 24 Epidermis 26 Hever 

27 Whatley 28 El Ninos 

DOWN: 1 Brodick 2 Stop it 3 Let-downs 4 Striplings 5 Data 6 Shrugs 

7 Goodwood 8 Demeans 14 Sesame seed 16 Bestival 17 Elephant 18 Page 

two 19 Ardross 21 Paella 23 Invent 25 Mayo 


Cornwall’s our home. 

We’d love to share it with you this season. 

Book a short stay from just 3 nights this Autumn/Winter. Choose from our beautiful 

collection of over 200 private homes, sleeping from 2 to 20 guests. 

CELEBRATIONS • ROMANTIC WEEKENDS • CORNISH ADVENTURES • TIME WITH FRIENDS 

cornishgems.com | 01872 241 241

BRITISH LEATHER GOODS 

WWW.ETTINGER.CO.UK

British Travel Journal | Autumn/Winter 2022

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