British Travel Journal | Autumn/Winter 2023

BRITISH TRAVEL 

JOURNAL 

AUTUMN/WINTER 2023 | ISSUE 16 

BRITISHTRAVELJOURNAL.COM 

A TASTE OF 

RUTLAND 

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Tresco: 28 miles off the Cornish coast. Somewhere else altogether.

CONTRIBUTIONS 

BRITISH TRAVEL 

JOURNAL 

BritishTravelJournal.com 

Welcome 

EDITOR’S LETTER 

— 

EDITORS 

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Jessica Way 

FEATURES EDITOR Samantha Rutherford 

CHIEF SUB-EDITOR Angela Harding 

HEAD OF DIGITAL Adrian Wilkinson 

CONTRIBUTORS 

Amy Bonifas, Sophie Farrah, Jane Knight, 

Karyn Noble, Emma O’Reilly 

COVER PHOTO 

— 

Three Cliffs Bay in Gower, Wales. Read 

more in our 10-page special, page 84 

Published by 

CONTISTA MEDIA 

Unit 6, Basepoint, Andersons Road, 

Southampton, SO14 5FE 

01489 660680 

contistamedia.co.uk 

There’s so much variety throughout this issue, bursting 

with breathtaking travel destinations, new hotels and 

extraordinary one-of-a-kind experiences. 

We cycle around Rutland’s 23-mile perimeter on a 

gourmet foodie trail (page 34), sleep under the stars in a wigwam 

surrounded by leopards at Port Lympne Safari Park in Kent (page 

40), join an early morning meadowland wildlife walk and meet the 

resident bees of Calcot Manor in the Cotswolds (page 64), and 

spend a day enjoying magnificent gardens and cyder-making at The 

Newt in Somerset (page 76). 

Our journalists uncover the hottest new hotels while partaking 

in a nature-inspired pottery session at the Birch Selsdon (page 26) 

and enjoying flower arranging at Cromlix with tennis star Andy 

Murray's wife Kim (page 23). My own travel highlights include walking 

across the Rhossili Downs, visiting the exquisite region of the Gower 

Peninsula (page 84) and taking a dip in Tinker Bunny’s Bathing Pool 

during a luxury stay at Atlanta Trevone in North Cornwall (page 48). 

Our Travel News (page 9) features a curated selection of hotels, 

spa breaks, cosy cottages, attractions to visit and more. Plus, don’t 

miss A Journey Through Time (page 54), where we uncover unique 

cultural adventures from across the country, including a VIP chocolate 

masterclass in York and tours of the oldest underground station in the 

world – Baker Street – with access to places that haven't been seen by 

the public in over 75 years. 

With so much to both see and do, it's time to get creative with 

our travel trips over the next few months – and to try our hands at 

something new – I hope this issue helps inspire you to do this, and wish 

you a fabulous and fun season ahead! 

Jessica x 

JESSICA WAY 

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF 

– 

All rights reserved by Contista Media Ltd. Copyright is either 

owned by or licenced to Contista Media Ltd, or permitted by the 

original copyright holder. Reproduction in whole or part without 

written permission is strictly prohibited. While every care is taken 

prices and details are subject to change and Contista Media Ltd 

take no responsibility for omissions or errors. Views expressed by 

authors are not necessarily those of the publisher. 

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CONTENTS 

AUTUMN/WINTER 2023 | ISSUE 16 

26 

64 

48 

FEATURES 

23 

SPOTLIGHT ON: CROMLIX 

The five-star Cromlix hotel in Scotland’s Stirlingshire has 

received plenty of attention, thanks to the famous couple who are 

its owners – champion tennis player Sir Andy Murray and his wife 

and artist Kim. We check out its recent refurbishment 

GET INSPIRED AT BIRCH 

26 We take a surprising jaunt to Croydon to check out the new 

Birch (Selsdon) hotel, the latest in the Birch property portfolio 

34 

COVER FEATURE A TASTE OF RUTLAND 

It might be Britain’s smallest county, but Rutland proves 

to be a big-hitter in terms of a surprisingly good food scene (yes, 

there’s Michelin-starred dining), a 23-mile perimeter ideal for 

cycling, and bags of quirky charm 

TAKE A WALK ON THE WILD SIDE 

40 Want to safari like you’re in Africa without leaving the 

county of Kent? You can. We take a wild weekend in the 600-acre 

Port Lympne Reserve (home to 900 animals) and Howletts Wild 

Animal Park, staying in a luxurious wigwam 

SERENITY ON THE SHORELINE 

48 Head to the North Cornwall coast with editor Jessica Way, 

as she checks in to Atlanta Travone, a new, lavishly designed coastal 

escape that is a perfect base from which to explore the region’s 

gourmet delights, outdoor activities, and abundant wildlife 

54 

COVER FEATURE A JOURNEY THROUGH 

TIME 

We’ve earmarked 10 one-of-a-kind experiences throughout Britain 

that highlight its history, heritage and culture, from taking a behindthe-scenes 

tour at the World of Wedgwood in the Staffordshire 

countryside to exploring Britain’s first tea plantation in Cornwall 

64 

REWILDING IN THE COTSWOLDS 

Take a tour of the Calcot & Spa country hotel in Tetbury, 

where we investigate their commitment to a 25-year rewilding 

project, where 240 acres of farmland has been nurtured into a 

new woodland area of 22,000 native trees, along with natural 

wildflower and grass meadows. We also offer an expert’s tips on 

how you can rewild at home 


A CORNISH GEM IN SUSTAINABLE TRAVEL 

94 We celebrate the launch of Cornish Gems’ new ecoconscious 

collection of holiday properties, where you can select 

accommodation that is an environmentally sound choice, 

reducing your travel footprint in a mindful way while still enjoying 

luxury in dreamy settings 

FOR YOUR JOURNEY 

98 Our autumn–winter book recommendations and crossword 

are ready for you to snuggle up beside the fire or perhaps under a hotel 

designer duvet while planning your next walking adventure 

A DAY AT THE NEWT 

76 Why not appreciate the seasonal beauty of harvest time 

with a jaunt to Somerset’s The Newt, a remarkable country estate 

with extraordinary gardens, architecture, restaurants and 3,000 

cyder apple trees 

COVER FEATURE A POSTCARD FROM THE 

84 GOWER PENINSULA 

Join us on a peaceful three-day escape to the UK’s first Area of 

Outstanding Natural Beauty; The Gower Peninsula in Wales offers 

picturesque hiking, striking coastal views, opportunities for wildlife 

spotting, blissful beaches and fabulous food 

JOTTINGS 

09 

TRAVEL NEWS 

09 

We’ve curated a collection of the latest openings and new 

experiences that are the ideal escapes for this cosiest of seasons. 

Whether you wish to spend a winter weekend at a renovated 

Victorian villa in the Lake District, stargaze from a Sussex cabin or 

have a Kate Moss spa treatment in The Cotswolds, it’s all here 

COMPETITION: WIN A BREAK TO THE 

62 COTSWOLDS 

We’re giving you the opportunity to win a special two-night break 

in the beautiful Cotswolds countryside, thanks to the launch of 

PoB Short Breaks, where you could stay in the utmost luxury at 

Ellenborough Park and Barnsley House 

ISLAND IMMERSION 

72 This special feature highlights the new PoB Breaks, immersive 

journeys enhanced by interactive maps to plan adventures at your own pace 

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CONNECT WITH THE BRITISH ISLES 

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Find your special place 

From luxury contemporary barn conversions to charming 

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you holiday memories to treasure. 

A portfolio of 

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holiday properties 

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01386 897 959 

ruralretreats.co.uk

Autumn /Winter 

TRAVEL NEWS 

Summer might be over, but there’s plenty to look forward to, with 

smart new hotels, spa breaks and cosy cottages in the country 

Text by Jane Knight 

HOTEL NEWS 

SPA & RETREATS 

SELF-CATERING 

EXPERIENCES 

from page 10 from page 14 

from page 16 from page 20 

Pictured anticlockwise from top: The Collective at Woolsery; No 1 Mayfair; Beachcroft Hotel; Hesdin Estate; Isle of Wight Walking Festival

Hotel News 

OXFORDSHIRE 

Estelle Manor 

For a country-house hotel that offers 

something for everyone, take a look at this 

newly opened Oxfordshire pad. A sister to 

private club Maison Estelle in London, it has 

a kids club, gym, workspace and outdoor 

pool; a Roman baths complex featuring five 

indoor pools is due to open soon. Stay in 

elegant Manor House rooms with vintage 

furnishings or in child-friendly properties 

scattered throughout the grounds. You can 

eat informally in the brasserie, or live it up 

in the Chinese restaurant, with its Murano 

glass chandeliers and green velvet seats. ◆ 

Rooms from £450, with breakfast; 

estellemanor.com 

CUMBRIA 

Langdale Chase 

Lake District hotels are ten a penny but this Victorian villa, on 

the banks of Windermere, is looking good after a £9-million 

renovation over more than three years. The best rooms have 

watery views, with a suite in the original boathouse. An exact date 

for the autumnal reopening is yet to be announced. ◆ 

Rooms from £340, with breakfast; langdalechase.co.uk 

THE COTSWOLDS 

The Bell at Charlbury 

Who doesn’t love a cosy pub once autumn starts to bite? New to 

Carole Bamford’s Daylesford portfolio is this 17th-century inn. When 

it opens, it will feature 12 bedrooms, an ash bar and inglenook 

fireplaces. The restaurant will use produce from local suppliers and 

Daylesford Organic to create family sharing platters. ◆ 

Room rates are yet to be set; thebellatcharlbury.com 


EDINBURGH 

100 Princes Street 

Expect nods to its past as the former home of the Royal Over-Seas 

League when this hotel opens on 1 November. A staircase mural 

features famous adventurers, and the Explorers Club is the place for 

whisky and wine. Some rooms have views of Edinburgh Castle. 

Rooms from £330, with breakfast; 100princes-street.com 

SNOWDONIA 

Penmaenuchaf 

Since Neil and Zoe Kedwood opened 

Pembrokeshire’s Grove of Narberth in 2008, 

it has become one of Wales’s best hotels. Now 

they’re working their magic on Penmaenuchaf, 

which they bought earlier this year (2023). 

Four new suites have been created at the top 

of the hotel, blending old-world charm and 

modern design. From the antique Welsh lace 

on the walls to the local pottery, there is a 

great sense of place at this mountain retreat; 

the hotel is in Eryri National Park, at the foot 

of Cadair Idris and overlooking Mawddach 

Estuary. The other bedrooms are due to be 

refurbished this winter. ◆ 


penmaenuchaf.co.uk 

Editor loves 

YORKSHIRE DALES 

The Angel at Hetton 

It’s good news for foodies who want to stay overnight 

after a Michelin-starred meal – Michael Wignall’s 

renowned restaurant with rooms gains five more 

Scandi-chic bedrooms this month. With feature 

bathrooms and views of Rylstone Fell, the stylish new 

additions join an existing 15 bedrooms, of which a 

third are also being refurbished. ◆ 

Rooms for two with an eight-course meal from 

£460; angelhetton.co.uk 


BOOK NOW 

rsc.org.uk 

PHOTOGRAPHY BY ÀSÌKÒ. IMAGE BY RSC VISUAL COMMUNICATIONS

LONDON 

No 1 Mayfair 

With more than 1,300 plants, this hotel has a good claim to be 

London’s greenest. It also features a living wall façade, a checkin 

desk hewn from a 200-year-old felled oak, and room sensors 

that turn lights and air conditioning off… plus a hefty price tag. 

Rooms from £700; 1hotels.com 

KENT 

One to watch 

Margate House 

Joining a wave of new hotels, art galleries, 

restaurants and independent shops in Margate, 

this nine-bedroom guesthouse references the 

bohemian seaside resort and its arty reputation 

at every turn. An ever-changing gallery of 

emerging artists is on show in the drawing 

room; vintage posters also grace the walls. 

The biggest rooms have bay windows with sea 

views. Decorated in warm pinks, terracotta and 

burgundy, they come with wavy headboards on 

the beds and scalloped lampshades, while the 

contemporary bathrooms feature toiletries using 

seaweed handpicked in Margate. Breakfast 

hampers are delivered to the rooms. ◆ 


margatehouse.co.uk 

LONDON 

Broadwick Soho 

They’re promising to channel both the grit and the glamour 

of Soho into this 57-room hotel when it opens in November. 

We can’t see any evidence of the former but the flamboyant 

Martin Brudnizki interiors do feel extremely glamorous. 

The hotel has a rooftop cocktail bar with wraparound 

terrace, as well as an Italian restaurant and a residents’ 

lounge, with fireplace and record player. ◆ 

Rooms from £595, with breakfast; broadwicksoho.com 


Spa & Retreats 

SUSSEX 

Bike and Board Activity Break 

Go mountain biking on the South Downs 

followed by paddleboarding on the south coast 

on a two- or three-night activity retreat from 

13 to 15 October, designed to get you out into 

nature when you stay at the Beachcroft Hotel. 

Guests learn the basics of each sport, including 

paddling and positioning on the water and types 

of turns. On the trails, climbing, descending 

and braking are among the techniques covered. 

There’s also sea swimming, paddleboard Pilates 

and breathwork, along with plenty of time to 

enjoy the sea view from this lovely hotel. ◆ 

Two nights from £525 with meals and 

activities; beachcroft-hotel.co.uk 

CORNWALL 

Menopause Retreat at Bedruthan 

Going mad with the menopause? Then take a look at this four-day 

retreat, from 12 to 16 November. Designed to be uplifting, supporting 

and educational, it includes belly dancing, yoga and meditation, as well 

as group hypnotherapy. A maximum of 10 places are available on the 

programme, held at this spa hotel overlooking a beautiful beach. ◆ 

The price of £1,350 includes full-board accommodation; bedruthan.com 

GLASGOW 

Scottish Snow Shower 

Snow showers may be pretty common in Scotland, but this one is 

set within the refurbished spa at the Kimpton Blythswood Square in 

Glasgow. It features as part of four different thermal journeys through 

health-boosting hot and cold experiences. A variety of therapies are 

on offer, ranging from seaweed bathing to sound treatments. ◆ 

Isles Spa Day package includes a 55-minute treatment of your 

choice and a 2 hour thermal experience (with snow shower), priced 

£170 per person; kimptonblythswoodsquare.com 


YORKSHIRE 

Spa Garden at Grantley Hall 

Our Nordic neighbours have known the benefits of toasting 

themselves in a sauna before plunging into icy water for years. 

You can follow suit at Grantley Hall’s new Nordic spa garden, 

which has a glass-wall sauna and two ice baths. 

Complimentary for hotel guests; grantleyhall.co.uk 

THE COTSWOLDS 

Kate Moss Spa Treatments 

She has already launched her own beauty 

and wellness brand, so it was only going to be 

a matter of time before the model Kate Moss 

delved into the spa sphere. The Dawn and 

Dusk ritual treatments under her Cosmoss 

brand are available exclusively at the new spa 

at The Lakes by Yoo Cotswolds estate, with its 

high-end self-catering options. Both include 

a massage and facial, but Dawn features a 

body brush to kick-start the metabolism and 

mood, while Dusk’s massage is carried out on 

an infrared mat to promote sleep. The spa has 

a 17m indoor pool, a sauna and steam room. ◆ 

Treatments cost £250 for 120 minutes; 

thelakesbyyoo.com 

YORKSHIRE DALES 

Rejuvenate at The Coniston 

Try a three Rs retreat from 2 to 5 October at the 1,400- 

acre Coniston Estate’s Nàdarra Spa, overlooking the 

Yorkshire Dales National Park. The Rs in question 

are rejuvenate, rebalance and reset. The four-day 

programme includes walks through rugged scenery, 

wild swimming, and yoga, along with talks on nutrition 

and sleep, a spa treatment, and a singing workshop. ◆ 

Three nights from £1,650; theconistonhotel.com 


Self-Catering 

WILTSHIRE 

Hesdin Estate 

Talk about cool pools – Hayho House, the latest 

addition to this little hamlet of properties, has 

an underground swimming pool, surrounded by 

grey walls. The other four houses all have a pool 

too, one a magnificent affair in its own spa hall 

(pictured), another in a walled garden, where 

you can swim as you watch the outdoors cinema. 

Expect cocktail dens and bunk rooms within. All 

the houses have games rooms, hot tubs, kitchens 

to cater for groups, and access to the estate, with 

its alpacas, goats, and a pig called Zoomie. ◆ 

A week for 14 at Hayho from £4,050; 

hesdin.co.uk 

SUFFOLK 

Wilderness Reserve 

Get complimentary use of an electric BMW when you stay on this 

8,000-acre Suffolk estate with its collection of restored properties. 

Use the cars to explore the surrounding woodland, lakes and rolling 

pastures, or venture further afield before returning to sleep in anything 

from a thatched cottage for two to a restored 15th-century barn. ◆ 

One night in a four-bed house from £823; wildernessreserve.com 

SUSSEX 

Stargazing Cabins 

Stargazing windows are set above the beds in this trio of ecolodges, 

so you can lie back and view the dark night sky. Each cabin has 

subtle nods to the nearby site of the Battle of Hastings, with stainedglass 

bathroom windows and Gothic doorways. We especially love 

Matilda, named after William the Conqueror’s wife. ◆ 

From £170 a night; starcroftfarm.co.uk 


ISLES OF SCILLY 

Blockhouse, Tresco 

If you’re looking for the ultimate place to stay on the island of 

Tresco, this could be it. Just steps from the sand, with particularly 

lovely views through the bifold doors in the kitchen, The 

Blockhouse also has its own sauna and steam room, plus a yoga 

and Pilates studio. The seven bedrooms aren’t bad, either. 

A week for 16 from £8,750; tresco.co.uk 

NORTH DEVON 

The Collective at 

Woolsery 

The man who created the social-media site 

Bebo is now sharing his ancestral village 

home with us. Some of Michael Birch’s family 

still live in the village of Woolsery, in North 

Devon, and it’s there that he has revived the 

local pub, the Farmers Arms, as well as the 

post office, fish ‘n’ chips shop and farm. Now 

you can stay in one of three cottages, two 

suites, or two village rooms, all beautifully 

kitted out in colourful contemporary fabrics, 

with a real sense of theatre about them. They 

sleep from two to eight people; a manor 

house is also being restored. ◆ 

Cottage for two from £450 a night; 

woolsery.com 

Editor loves 

SCOTLAND 

Glen Glack cabins 

Although they were inspired by traditional bothies, 

the five lochside boltholes that have just opened on 

Perthshire’s Atholl Estates don’t share the no-frills 

ethos. Instead, they have a modern, minimalist design; 

one cabin for two also has an outside bath to 

truly immerse yourself in nature. Spend your days 

exploring the Cairngorms National Park; guests 

get free entry to Blair Castle. ◆ 

From £175 a night for two; atholl-estates.co.uk 


CHANNEL ISLANDS 

Enjoy Autumn on Alderney

DEVON 

The Nest 

You can see why this little clifftop eyrie for two got its name – 

surrounded by trees, it has panoramic views of the sea from the 

terrace or from the sofa through floor-to-ceiling windows. 

The art-filled interiors include a modern four-poster bed. 

From £140 a night for two; uniquehideaways.com 

SCOTTISH BORDERS 

SCHLOSS Roxburghe 

It already comprises a hotel with golf course, 

restaurant and spa. Now this estate on the 

Scottish borders has added 26 contemporary 

cottages in woodland, some with private 

saunas. Like the hotel, they are all dog friendly, 

and make the perfect base from which to 

explore the countryside. Go fly-fishing, try claypigeon 

shooting, or head off for some hiking 

or biking. When you return, there’s an outdoor 

pool to soak in, followed by estate-to-plate 

dining in Charlie’s Restaurant. Accompany your 

meal with wine, whisky or gin pairings. ◆ 

Two-bedroom cottage from £506 a night; 

schlosshotel-roxburghe.com 

WALES 

Gardener’s House 

Rows of galvanised watering cans displayed on 

wall shelving, a potting trolley doubling as a bedside 

table and antique trugs… the décor certainly lives 

up to the name in this former gardener’s cottage 

on North Wales’s Hawarden Estate. As you might 

expect, the garden is a riot of colour; the house also 

borders Hawarden Walled Garden. ◆ 

From £395 a night for nine; 

hawardenestate.co.uk 


Experiences 

ISLE OF WIGHT 

Autumn Walking Festival 

Step out and explore this beautiful little 

island on any of 55 organised walks from 7 

to 15 October. They include something for 

everyone, from a one-mile Red Squirrel Walk 

to the 12-mile Colwell Bay circuit, which takes 

in the coloured sands of Alum Bay and the 

series of stacks known as the Needles. Find 

out about the island’s famous residents as you 

go, perhaps on the four-mile Dickens Trail 

around Bonchurch, or taking a turn around 

Queen Victoria’s East Cowes. Some walks are 

reserved for women only. Book ferry crossings 

on Wightlink (wightlink.co.uk). ◆ 

For further details visit: 

isleofwightwalkingfestival.co.uk 

IMAGE © VISITISLEOFWIGHT / LEON BUTLER 

SCOTLAND 

Loch Ness Centre 

Immerse yourself in the legend of Nessie at this new £1.5 million 

centre at the former Drumnadrochit Hotel. Here, 90 years ago, the 

manageress reported seeing a ‘water beast’ in Loch Ness. During a 

one-hour experience, you can become part of the quest to discover 

what the 23-mile-long lake waters really hold. ◆ 

Tickets from £13.95; lochness.com 

SOUTH COAST 

Electric South West 660 

Want to know where to find the best electric-charging spot with a 

view on the South West 660 road route from Dorset and Somerset 

to Devon and Cornwall? It’s at The Minack Theatre, one of a 

number of charging sites detailed on 12 different driving routes in 

association with charge-point mapping service Zapmap. ◆ 

southwest660.com; zap-map.com 

IMAGE © GARY HOLPIN PHOTOGRAPHY 


NORTHUMBERLAND 

Walk Barefoot to Holy Island 

Follow in the footsteps of pilgrims by walking barefoot at low tide 

across the causeway to Lindisfarne. The seven-mile walk is one 

of a number of experiences being offered by guests staying at 

Crabtree & Crabtree’s self-catering accommodation. It costs £55 

per person, with a picnic. Cottages for four from £590 for 

three nights; crabtreeandcrabtree.com 

SOMERSET 

Teals Farm Shop 

Is this the best service station ever? On the 

A303 between Sparkford and Wincanton, 

Teals was created by Nick and Ash Sinfield, 

who wanted to offer motorists something a 

little bit different. They created a farm shop 

with butchery, restaurant and food-to-go 

counter serving seasonal, locally sourced 

produce. This summer they added EV 

superchargers, and in the autumn they plan a 

dig-your-own potatoes event. If you’re driving 

nearby on 7 December, pop in for a Christmas 

VIP shopping event to celebrate their third 

birthday, with festive tastings and music 

provided by the Military Wives Choir. ◆ 

teals.co.uk 

IMAGE © MILOSZ MASLANKA/IWETA0077/SHUTTERSTOCK 

SCOTLAND 

Hike the Highlands 

Walk from one family run guesthouse to the next, 

with your luggage transported for you on this new 

trip from specialist travel company Inntravel. 

Take in the lower reaches of the Cairngorms 

National Park, stroll along stretches of the famed 

Rob Roy Way, and climb Ben Vrackie. Reward 

yourself with a visit to a world-class distillery. ◆ 

Six nights’ B&B with luggage transfers 

from £780; inntravel.co.uk 


SPECIAL FEATURE 

Les Misérables 

SHOWING AT LONDON’S SONDHEIM THEATRE 

Let the unforgettable music and powerful story inspire you! 

IMAGES © JOHAN PERSSON 

If you're a fan of musicals, you won't 

want to miss Cameron Mackintosh's 

latest production of Les Misérables 

showing now in London's West End at the 

Sondheim Theatre, currently booking until 

2 March 2024. This beloved show has been 

seen by over 130 million people worldwide in 

53 countries and in 22 languages, making it 

one of the most popular musicals of all time. 

This brilliant new staging has taken the 

world by storm with critics dubbing it as 

"Les Mis for the 21st Century," "a reborn 

dream of a production," and "perfect 

theatre in a perfect theatre." 

The music is unforgettable, featuring 

classics like I Dreamed a Dream, On My 

Own, Master Of The House, Bring Him 

Home, and Do You Hear the People Sing? 

These songs have become anthems of 

revolution for people fighting for their 

freedom around the world. 

Experience the magic of Les Misérables 

like never before, based on the classic novel 

by Victor Hugo and brought to life by the 

talented Alain Boublil and Claude-Michel 

Schönberg. ◆ 

HOW TO BOOK TICKETS 

Cameron Mackintosh’s acclaimed 

fully-staged new production 

of Boublil and Schönberg’s Les 

Misérables is playing now at London’s 

Sondheim Theatre. 

Standard tickets priced from £10. 

Box Office: 0344 482 5151 

In Person: Sondheim Theatre 

Shaftesbury Avenue, London, 

W1D 6BA tickets 

Find out more and book online: 

www.lesmis.com 


Spotlight ON 

CROMLIX 

A decade on from creating their own five-star hotel, tennis star 

Andy Murray and his wife and artist Kim are not resting on their laurels, 

with a recent refurbishment taking Cromlix House, Stirlingshire from 

great to gorgeous 

Text by Emma O’Reilly 


As I enter Cromlix House, I am welcomed first 

by neat rows of Hunter wellies, just waiting 

for willing walkers to step into them, then by 

the smiling duty manager, Ali. A reception 

area is an important part of a hotel, it being the first room 

a guest sees, and setting the tone for their whole stay. 

This is a good one – cosy and informal, with sofas and a 

fire for cooler days. It feels homely – albeit the home of a 

richer, more stylish friend perhaps. It even smells gorgeous, 

courtesy of the hotel’s signature scent. 

Cromlix House is a Victorian mansion, originally built 

as a private home for an aristocratic family. It has just 15 

bedrooms and a lodge house, but it’s sprawling, meaning 

plenty of space per guest – some of the suites are positively 

ballroom proportioned. There are also several public 

areas, including a bar (great cocktails), an airy restaurant, 

The Glasshouse, a drawing room (owner Andy Murray's 

favourite), the Billiards Room, complete with pick ‘n’ mix 

sweets, just in case you are feeling peckish post dinner. 

Which you won’t be, because the food here alone is a 

reason to visit. 

Head chef Darin Campbell (formerly Head Chef at 

the two Michelin- starred Andrew Fairlie restaurant at 

Gleneagles) and his team have moved on from the more 

traditional French food of the past for a more modern 

menu, with lots of lighter options and international 

flavours. Favourites during my stay were a Vietnamese 

Broth starter, with coconut, noodles, a hint of chilli and 

sweetcorn fritter, plus a main of seared fillet of sea bass 

with Jersey Royals, rose harissa and langoustine sauce. 

Kim Murray has been in the driving seat for the 

refurbishment, working alongside interior designer Suzanne 

Garuda to create a look that respects the building’s history, 

while bringing it up-to-date, using bold botanical prints, 

rich, vibrant colours and some exciting paintings and prints. 

There’s not a hint of tartan anywhere – although the staff do 

wear some rather stylish tweed (alongside short tan leather 

aprons in the restaurant). 


Pictured above: Emma O'Reilly with Kim Murray. Photograph by Ruth McQuiggan 

While Andy would be the first to admit that interior 

design isn’t ‘his thing’ (we’ll forgive you, Andy, as you’re 

pretty good at something else!), he has a passion for art and 

has loaned part of his own collection to the walls of Cromlix, 

as has The Royal Scottish Academy. It’s an interesting mix 

and includes works by Damien Hirst, David Shrigley, Ashley 

Cook, William McTaggart and Elizabeth Blackadder. 

Bedrooms are luxurious – and it is good to see 

environmentally friendly amenities and heavenly toiletries 

from a small local company, MODM. There are wellequipped 

tea/coffee stations and a couple of homemade 

shortbread biscuits – recipe courtesy of Andy’s gran! 

However, a hotel is not just about its aesthetics. The staff 

and service are equally important and Cromlix really shines 

here, with workers who always have a smile on their faces 

and cannot do enough to help guests. 

Outside the hotel there are 34 acres of grounds to 

roam, including woodland and a small loch. You will 

also find – no surprises here; a couple of tennis courts 

(Andy’s mum Judy often runs courses) and an appetisinglooking 

kitchen garden. Further afield, both Edinburgh 

and Glasgow are within an hour’s drive. Closer still is 

Stirling, with its castle and National Wallace Monument; 

Bannockburn, and Dunblane, where Andy grew up. 

Cromlix House can customise all sorts of activities for 

guests. Fancy an in-room spa treatment? When would 

you like it? Falconry in the grounds? No problem! We opt 

first for a foraging session in the woods with professional 

forager Lauren Lochrie and head chef Darin Campbell. 

It is fascinating. We talk moss – the climate benefits of 

the sphagnum moss we see on the woodland floor, which 

absorbs carbon dioxide from the atmospshere, and Old 

Man’s Beard, hanging wispily from the trees, which has 

many medicinal applications. We find mushrooms – one 

a giant botelus, way past its best, another mushroom 

that nobody can identify but it looks ‘suspicious’ and we 

are told to leave well alone. Some girolles, found under a 

fallen branch, look good and go into a bag for us to enjoy 

for dinner that evening. We chew on spring needles from 

the Douglas Fir tree – apparently they are high in vitamin 

C and electrolytes. We find wild raspberries, still ripening, 

and Lauren has brought with her some ice lollies made 

from elderflower and the plantain herb. 

Back inside, we create our own hand creams and 

muscle rubs, made with birch-infused oil and essential oils. 

Next, we do some flower arranging – and get a surprise 

visit from Kim who is at Cromlix for the day. She shows us 

how she likes to arrange blooms (in a posy, then put in a 

vase, rather than trying to arrange it straight into the vase, 

in case you’re wondering). Kim starts with height in the 

middle, then foliage and shorter blooms built around. 

Kim clearly has an eye for it. It’s a treat to meet her. She 

is so likeable and down-to-earth. 

At lunch, the restaurant is busy – Kim notes that they 

opened this place as much for the locals as anyone else 

and that Andy very much wants to give something back to 

his community. It seems to be working – who wouldn’t like 

to have such a place on their doorstep? 

Prices from £310 per night; pobhotels.com; cromlix.com 


GET INSPIRED 

at Birch 

With a unique formula that encompasses contemporary design, 

fabulous food, stimulating workshops, and nature in abundance, 

British Travel Journal checks in to one of the country’s most exciting 

and inspiring new hotels: Birch (Selsdon) 

Text by Sophie Farrah 

formula – there is nature to restore calm, food to nourish, 

wellness to realign body and mind, and a programme of 

workshops to inspire. It may all sound very wholesome, 

but there are also several cocktail bars, regular DJs and 

a party atmosphere when night falls, and it has all been 

carefully – and beautifully – designed. 

Outside, what was once a vast golf course, aggressively 

mowed and manicured to within an inch of its life, has 

been left to rewild, and nature is quickly moving back in. 

Croydon isn’t exactly the first place that springs 

to mind when planning a country escape, but 

here, just 30 minutes south of London, lies 

one the UK’s most exciting new hotels. Birch 

(Selsdon) has taken the bones of a fusty, old-fashioned 

golf resort and transformed it, both inside and out, into an 

inspiring destination to stay, play, and immerse oneself in 

nature. 

Selsdon joins Birch’s existing hotel in Cheshunt, 

Hertfordshire, and both properties share the same unique 


At 200 acres, it is one of the largest rewilding projects 

within the M25, and it inspires much of what goes on 

inside the building too. 

Having first been developed into a hotel in the 1920s, 

the impressive 19th-century Gothic-style mansion has 

today been exquisitely remodelled by leading interior 

design and architecture studios A-nrd and Sella Concept. 

They have peeled back the property’s layers and brought 

out its best features – there are beautifully ornate ceilings, 

stunning fireplaces, and enviable original wooden 

flooring throughout. Birch has then added its signature 

melange of modern design furniture, contemporary art, 

handcrafted pieces made using sustainable materials, 

and a splash of glamour. The colour palate is extremely 

pleasing – calming, nature-inspired tones fill most spaces, 

interspersed with pops of pattern, colour and metallics, 

while natural materials add a cosy softness. 

As well as a hip hotel, Birch (Selsdon) operates as 

a member’s club and it has all the chicness of one, but 

none of the snootiness. Another unique feature is the 

variety of creative classes and workshops on offer; there 

is a dedicated pottery studio, art space and screenprinting 

room, allowing both guests and members to 

let their creative juices flow. In an ‘Inspired by Nature’ 


pottery session, we sat outside amid swaying grasses 

and wildflowers, making pinch pots and tiles decorated 

with flora we had foraged ourselves. After 60 immersive 

minutes, my shoulders had well and truly dropped. As our 

clay creations were whisked away to be glazed and fired, 

we headed off to find our room. 

There are 181 bedrooms of all shapes and sizes that 

line several long Wes Anderson-esque corridors. Ours 

was what Birch (Selsdon) describes as ‘Large’, and it was 

just that. Overlooking the terrace and sprawling grounds 

beyond, the airy and uncluttered room felt immediately 

serene. The original stone-framed lead windows flooded 

the space with natural light, while two boucle armchairs 

looked gently enticing. The walls were bare except for one 

or two splashes of contemporary British art. Pleasingly 

simple wooden bedside tables have been crafted using 

wood from the estate, while recycled glass lampshades 

add a subtle touch of sparkle. There is no TV, no desk. 

It was sparse, but in the best possible way. Birch aims to 

provide a sense of space, both figuratively and literally. 

The pastel pink bathroom was small but well equipped, 

but now was not the time for a long bath – I was destined 

for wellness elsewhere. 

Trying to not get distracted by the two restaurants, 

three bars, impressive co-working hub, and various 

inviting communal spaces, I made my way to the hotel’s 


state of-the-art wellness space. Here, there is a huge, 

plant-filled gym, filled with all manner of cutting-edge 

kit and modern machinery. There’s also a spin studio and 

a variety of fitness classes on offer and, if you’re in need 

of pampering, there are four treatment rooms, while the 

outdoor heated lido, tennis court, and running track all 

await outside. 

After a very good Pilates class (a perfect combination 

of both sweat and stretch), it was time for a cocktail, 

naturally. There’s a sprawling outdoor terrace, dotted with 

squishy beanbags, cute carpets, cosy firepits and lots of 

lovely festoon lighting. From here, I sipped an excellent 

Paloma and admired the far-reaching views across Birch’s 

beautiful, tree-strewn grounds. 

There are two restaurants at Birch (Selsdon), both 

named after local flowers. I had dinner at Elodie, which is 

headed up by award-winning, Michelin-starred chef Lee 

Westcott. Overlooking the terrace and former golf course 

beyond, this 100-seater space is a feast for the eyes, with 

lavishly decorated ceilings, mirrored pillars, atmospheric 

lighting, and sumptuous booth seating. The offering is a 

nature-driven seasonal tasting menu, and each and every 

dish was exquisitely presented and tasted nothing short of 

sublime. 

Just some of the highlights included a perfectly crisp 

croustade filled with sweet summer green beans, creamy 

smoked cod’s roe, wild garlic capers and marigold; a small 

warm loaf of sourdough, made with local IPA, slathered 

‘ 

I had dinner at Elodie... a feast for the eyes, with lavishly decorated ceilings, 

mirrored pillars, atmospheric lighting, and sumptuous booth seating. 

’ 


scrubland, and meadows, restoring a diverse range of 

habitats to the land. It received its final mow two years 

ago and already it is teeming with wildlife; over 84 plant 

species and 525 animal species have been recorded, 

including bats, bees, birds and butterflies. It hums with 

the energy of all the nature that is moving back in, and it 

is a beautiful and incredibly peaceful place to be, so much 

so that when our small group happened upon a roe deer 

snoozing under a vast oak tree, it barely noticed us. 

As Cox led us through ancient woodland and across 

grassy meadows, eagerly pointing out rare plants, birds 

and butterflies as we went, he described how the imminent 

introduction of Tamworth pigs, Sussex cattle and Exmoor 

ponies will help to manage the land, as nature intended. 

As we passed sand-filled golf bunkers now sprouting with 

wildflowers and grasses, he explained how he hopes that, 

in time, endangered species native to this part of England, 

such as dormice, nightjars, and nightingales, will return 

because of the restoration of their scrubland habitat here. 

with a deeply rich Marmite butter, and a perfectly cooked 

piece of Cornish plaice, with mussels, Jersey royals, violet 

artichoke and buttery braised leeks, all liberally doused in 

a silky green olive sauce at the table. My favourite course 

was dessert. Simply described as ‘English Strawberry’, 

it was bursting with flavours of cherry blossoms (picked 

on-site), Sichuan pepper and creamy cultured yoghurt – a 

well-balanced medley of sweet, spicy, floral flavours and 

incredibly satisfying textures. 

Breakfast at all-day dining spot Vervain was similarly 

impressive; there was delicious granola made in-house, 

poached eggs with smoked salmon and a very good 

hollandaise, and I can confidently say that the pain au 

chocolat – warm, crisp, and oozing with melted dark 

chocolate – was quite simply the best I have ever eaten. 

Guests are encouraged to immerse themselves in 

Birch’s natural beauty; there are marked walking routes, 

picnic tables and swaying hammocks dotted around the 

grounds. After breakfast, we embarked on one of the 

regular rewilding walks hosted by regenerative designer 

and passionate environmentalist Sebastian Cox, who is 

leading the rewilding project at Birch (Selsdon). 

His plan is to allow the undulating 200-acre former 

golf course to regenerate into a mosaic of woodland, 


‘ 

There’s a unique energy to Birch (Selsdon), both inside and out... It is a place to 

be inspired, and to feel calm and re-energised all at once. 

’ 

Feeling inspired and excited by the potential of Cox’s 

pioneering project, I wandered back to the hotel and 

found a similar sense of optimism in the air. I sat on the 

terrace and watched as a group set off on a bushcraft and 

survival skills walk, already wide-eyed at what they were 

hearing, as two children roly-polied their way through the 

long grass on their way to the ‘Birchlings’ kids club. 

A couple clinked cocktails and excitedly discussed the 

‘learn to DJ’ workshop that they were about to embark on, 

as a woman strolled past with a yoga mat tucked under 

her arm. 

There’s a unique energy to Birch (Selsdon), both inside 

and out. There’s something about the wildness of the 

land and the freedom that it has finally been granted that 

made me want to let my hair down too. It is a place to be 

inspired, and to feel calm and re-energised all at once. It’s 

a rare and tricky balance to achieve, but I think that Birch 

has got it just right. 

Rooms at Birch (Selsdon) start from £180 per night; 

birchcommunity.com/selsdon 


SPECIAL FEATURE 

Grease the Musical 

SHOWING AT LONDON’S DOMINION THEATRE 

Get ready to rock with a musical return to the West End! 

IMAGES © JOHAN PERSSON 

The beloved musical Grease has 

made its triumphant return to 

the West End! Starring Jason 

Donovan, who first appeared 

as Scott Robinson in the hit Australian 

series Neighbours and global media star 

Peter Andre,* praised for their outstanding 

performances last year. The show is back on 

stage at the Dominion Theatre, a historic art 

deco venue located in the heart of London, 

until 28 October 2023. 

The story follows the passionate summer 

romance between leather-clad Danny and 

girl-next-door Sandy, who are unexpectedly 

reunited when she moves to Rydell High 

for her senior year. Can they navigate the 

complexities of teenage life and rekindle 

their love? 

Grease The Musical saw over 500,000 

people flock to the West End last year. 

Don't miss out on this incredible production, 

produced by Colin Ingram for InTheatre 

Productions, featuring unforgettable hits 

like Summer Nights, Greased Lightnin', 

Hopelessly Devoted to You, and You're the 

One That I Want. ◆ 

HOW TO BOOK TICKETS 

Grease The Musical is taking 

bookings now with performances 

Monday to Saturday at 7.30pm, 

Thursday and Saturday at 2.30pm. 

Tickets priced from £17.50. 

Box Office: 0345 200 7982 

*For the full performance 

schedule and to ensure you 

don't miss out on these talented 

performers, be sure to check the 

website for specific dates. 

www.greasemusical.co.uk 


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A TASTE OF 

Rutland 

Britain's smallest county proves to be a big draw for foodies, 

offering everything from the Rutland Pippin to Michelin-starred 

dining. Its enormous watery playground is surrounded by honeycoloured 

villages, one of which claims to be twinned with Paris 



Driving through the blink-and-you-miss-it village 

of Whitwell, population 41, I wonder if I read 

the street sign correctly. ‘Twinned with Paris’, 

it announces proudly. Whitwell might have a 

handful of pretty, stone cottages, possibly more ducks 

than residents and an appealing-looking pub called The 

Noel, but Paris? Really? 

It’s not until we sit down to lunch later at the Olive 

Branch at Clipsham that the co-owner Ben Jones throws 

some light on it. 

“One night some of the locals in the pub decided it was 

a good idea,” he chuckles. “It’s pretty tongue in cheek.” 

It was apparently in 1980 that pub regulars decided to 

write to the then mayor of Paris, a certain Jacques Chirac, 

proposing the ambitious twinning. They added that if they 

didn’t receive a response, they would assume that Paris 

had accepted the offer. When no RSVP was received, a 

farcical ceremony was held, and the sign has been there 

ever since. 

It’s just one of the quirky things my son and I discover 

during a trip to Rutland, England’s smallest historic county 

(and yes, the Isle of Wight may be a smidgeon smaller, but 

it’s a ceremonial county). This is the place with the largest 

collection of horseshoes in a Norman castle, where legend 

has it that Guy Fawkes et al plotted to blow up James I in 

parliament and which even has its own version of the pork 

pie – the Rutland Pippin, shaped like an apple. 

IMAGE © SHUTTERSTOCK 


Squeezed in between Northamptonshire, Lincolnshire 

and Leicestershire, Rutland might be pint-sized but it really 

packs a punch in the charisma stakes. 

Sharing the same geology as the Cotswolds, its rolling 

green hills are studded with honey-coloured stone villages 

cloaked with a raw charm the chichi Cotswolds hasn’t seen 

for decades. And it’s relatively crowd free. 

The county, whose motto multum in parvo means ‘much 

in little’, also comes with a spectacular centrepiece in the 

form of Rutland Water. Covering more than 3,000 acres, 

it’s one of the largest constructed lakes in Europe. This 

watery playground of the East Midlands is a place where 

you can windsurf, sail or fish its waters, go for a serene 

hike along its shores, or gaze skyward at ospreys and red 

kites gliding overhead. 

We’re here to cycle around its perimeter, all 23 miles 

of it. But before that, a chance to scope the watery world 

from the deck of the Rutland Belle, learning a bit about the 

history of this reservoir, created by flooding two villages in 

the 1970s. 

We chug to the water’s most famous landmark, 

Normanton Church, which might seem to float on water 

from a distance but which we can see standing on its 

own shored-up peninsula as we approach. Saved from 


‘ 

Luckily, we don’t have far to go once we’ve returned the bikes... we’re staying just 

two minutes up the road at The Barnsdale, fresh from a major renovation, with its 

boldly coloured fabric headboards and patterned wallpaper. 

’ 

demolition by locals when plans for the reservoir were 

announced, the church is now a wedding venue and a 

popular picnic spot. 

Back on land, it’s time to hit the cycle-hire shop. “There 

are only two hilly bits,” the lady at Rutland Cycling assures 

us. “If you go anticlockwise, you’ll hit the first one almost 

immediately, and over the other side of the water you’ll be 

able to coast down the second one.” All I can say is they 

must count a little differently in Rutland because, at times, 

it feels like the route goes up and down yo-yo style. 

As for the hardy souls on Google who say it’s easily 

done in three hours, I can only suppose they are honed 

athletes; we set out at 11am and arrived back totally 

shattered at 4pm, with a much-needed lunch pit stop at 

the perfectly placed Horse & Jockey pub in Manton. 

It's a scenic cycle though, mostly on a decent path with 

just a small section on a quiet road. Sometimes we pedal 

right down by the water’s edge, others we are flanked by 

fields of lambs or speed through tunnels of trees. 

You can save yourself six miles if you miss out the 

promontory that juts out into Rutland Water but this forms 

some of the most photogenic part of the route (as well as a 

challenging hilly section). A tip: take a saddle cover – your 

bum will be numb by the end of the day. 

Luckily, we don’t have far to go once we’ve returned the 

bikes (not that anywhere is far in this county that measures 

little more than 17 miles in any direction). We’re staying 

just two minutes up the road at The Barnsdale, fresh 

from a major renovation, with its boldly coloured fabric 

headboards and patterned wallpaper. A former Georgian 

hunting lodge with 45 rooms arranged around an 

appealing courtyard, it makes a comfortable and decently 

priced base from which to explore this fascinating county. 

It also serves some excellent food – just what you need 

when you feel you’ve earnt your food miles on a marathon 

cycle ride. We do full justice to lobster and squid with 

orange and fennel that is wonderfully chargrilled. It’s 

the perfect precursor to delicious gnocchi with wild field 

mushrooms and spinach for me and an excellently cooked 

steak for my son. 

Rutland prides itself on its food, and rightly so, given its 

agricultural heritage, although it did give way to the march 

of McDonalds in 2020 (the last British county to do so). 


‘ 

It's a little more formal at Hambleton Hall, a Victorian mansion... Eating 

exquisite canapés while we peruse the menu, we gaze out at the view framed by 

two cork oaks and see the cycle path we toiled along just the day before. 

’ 

Every meal we eat is exceptional, starting at the Olive 

Branch at Clipsham, a short drive from a row of 150 yew 

trees clipped into unusual shapes that line what was the 

driveway to Clipsham Hall. Within a series of interlinked 

rooms that were once three farm labourers' cottages, the 

atmosphere is very much ye olde village inn – beams, rustic 

furniture and roaring fires. 

Yet the food is a long way from your average pub grub. 

My Maris Piper potato risotto with cep, caramelised leek, 

truffle and mozzarella works beautifully with the pub’s own 

beer – Olive ale, although there’s also an impressive wine 

list. The idea, says co-owner Ben Jones, is that if you want 

a £180 Mendoza, it’s there, but if you’d rather just relax 

with a glass of Riesling for a fiver, that’s fine too. 

It's a little more formal at Hambleton Hall, a Victorian 

mansion with a sweep of elegant public rooms and 

manicured gardens leading down to Rutland Water; it sits 

on the reservoir’s promontory. Eating exquisite canapés 

while we peruse the menu, we gaze out at the view framed 

by two cork oaks and see the cycle path we toiled along 

just the day before. 

One of Britain's longest holders of a Michelin star and a 

member of Relais & Châteaux foodie group, Hambleton 

really wows in the culinary stakes, with chef Aaron 

Patterson using produce from the kitchen garden and local 

suppliers to create artfully arranged dishes. They taste as 

good as they look, starting with poached king prawns with 

ponzu, avocado and seaweed before a delightfully fresh 

dish of tagliatelle and wild mushrooms. 

Save room for the sourdough – it comes from their 

own Hambleton Bakery in Exton. It’s conveniently near 

The Barnsdale, so we pop in later to sample the Rutland 

Pippin, a combination of ham hock, sausage meat, apple 

sauce and Stilton in an apple-shaped pastry. 

In between eating, there’s plenty more to explore, 

including the quaint market towns of Uppingham and 


IMAGES © ERHAN INGA / SHUTTERSTOCK 

Oakham, with their posh private schools, traditional 

butchers, bakers and boutiques, and a smattering of 

antique shops and art galleries. 

Oakham is also home to a Norman castle, although what 

they call the ‘finest surviving example of Norman domestic 

architecture in Europe’ is actually the great hall of a fortified 

manor, which lies within defensive curtain walls. 

Its interiors are hung with about 240 gilded horseshoes 

offered by visiting royalty and aristocrats; the oldest dates to 

Edward IV’s visit in 1470, and there’s one from King Charles, 

when he was Prince of Wales. No one really knows the 

reason behind the equine gifts, except that the horseshoe 

featured on the coat of arms of the de Ferrers family who 

owned the castle; it is also part of Rutland’s own banner. 

There’s one more place to check out in this fascinating 

county before we head for home. In the tiny village of 

Stoke Dry, we navigate a stone staircase to the priest’s 

room above the porch in St Andrew’s church. Legend has 

it that Sir Everard Digby, who became Lord of the manor 

of Stoke Dry in 1592, first met with his cohorts to devise the 

Gunpowder Plot here. 

But although it’s easy to imagine Guy Fawkes et al 

whispering to each other in this atmospheric, poky 

room, a sign tells us it’s not true; Sir Everard moved to 

Buckinghamshire years before the dastardly plot was 

hatched. 

There is, though, intrigue in the form of the 13th-century 

wall murals on the other side of the church. They show 

King Edmund being impaled by arrows by what look like 

American Indians some 200 years before Christopher 

Columbus ‘discovered’ the Americas. Could they be 

proof that the Vikings took their longships across the 

Atlantic before the famed explorer? Or is it just another 

idiosyncrasy in this quirky little county? 

Rooms at The Barnsdale cost from £120, B&B; 

barnsdalerutland.com. 

For more information: discover-rutland.co.uk 


There are few places in the world where you can sleep 

safely next to a leopard or sip your morning coffee eye to eye 

with a tiger… British Travel Journal heads to Port Lympne and 

Howletts in Kent for a truly wild weekend 

Text by Sophie Farrah

ATAKE 

WALK 

ON THE 

Wild Side 

Sitting in the back in the safari truck, we 

watched as two leathery rhinos grazed and 

a group of camels slowly lolloped across the 

landscape. A family of giraffes sat snoozing 

under a tree, set against a vast backdrop of blue sky 

and the sea twinkling on the horizon, the peace only 

momentarily disturbed by the sound of a lion’s roar 

in the distance. This may well sound like Kenya, but 

we were in fact in Kent. 

Spanning over 600 acres of picturesque 

countryside near Folkestone and home to over 900 

animals, Port Lympne Reserve is a breeding 


sanctuary for rare and endangered species. Unlike 

a traditional zoo, the animals born here are sent to 

protected areas of their natural habitat wherever possible, 

so that they can live freely. 

Port Lympne works in conjunction with The Aspinall 

Foundation, who have rescued, relocated or rewilded 

more than 1,000 animals to date. The foundation has 

transported black rhinos to Tanzania, western lowland 

gorillas to Congo, African painted dogs to Gabon, 

cheetahs to South Africa, and more. 

This dedication to conservation is evident at Port 

Lympne and at its nearby sister park, Howletts. At both, 

visitors can upgrade their visit to include immersive 

animal experiences, while the offer of short breaks at 

Port Lympne allows guests to get even closer to the 

wildlife by spending the night on the reserve in an array 

of accommodation. 

One option is the 4-star Port Lympne Mansion Hotel, 

which is housed in a characterful early 20th-century 

Grade-II-listed country house steeped in history, but 

beyond its plush walls, things get a little wilder... Dotted 

around the park, there are several high-spec lodges that 

offer direct views into some enclosures, including those 

of the park’s big cats, rhino, wolves and more. There are 

also several stylish shepherd's huts overlooking fields of 

grazing animals, treehouses with far-reaching views, and 

even transparent ‘bubbles’ tucked away in the reserve’s 

secluded woodland, but we were here to experience Port 

Lympne’s latest addition; a luxurious wigwam at the 

recently unveiled Leopard Creek. 

Each short break includes access to the park from 

9.30am on the day of arrival, so we pitched up early, 

left our bags with the dedicated concierge and set off 

to explore. First up was the aforementioned safari, also 

included when staying. A fantastic open-sided vintage 

truck set several metres off the floor took us on an hourlong 

authentic safari experience, minus the air miles. We 

saw rhino, giraffe, antelope and more, and the views from 


the top of the reserve, all the way across Romney Marsh and to the 

Kentish coastline beyond, were astounding. 

Back on foot, we set off in search of some of the other Big Five. 

At Port Lympne and Howletts, animal habitats are replicated as 

closely as possible and each enclosure has plenty of foliage and 

shelter; animals are never locked into a viewing area, instead they 

are allowed to choose where and if they want to be seen. Luckily, 

we didn’t have to wait long to spot rare Amur tigers (Amba and 

Amura) and Hunter, one of the reserve’s impressive male lions. We 

also saw lemurs, gibbons, baboons, cheetahs, tapirs, meerkats, 

monkeys and more, and before long it was time to check in. 

One incredibly fun perk of staying at Port Lympne is that several 

accommodation types include use of a private golf buggy for 

exploring the reserve, which is exclusively yours for the duration 

of your stay. After winding our way past rhino and red pandas as 

we whizzed through the park, we saw the unmistakable triangular 

silhouette of our wigwam approaching. Sitting next to the reserve’s 

leopard enclosure, Leopard Creek is home to several individually 

designed cabins and two stunning wigwams, all of which are open 

all year round and allow guests to sleep just metres away from Port 

Lympne's rarest and most elegant cats. 

Beautifully designed, our wigwam was incredibly luxurious 

and had huge windows overlooking grazing antelope, swaying 


‘ 

Back at the wigwam, we lit the firepit, sunken and carefully sheltered from 

the wind. The stars were some of the brightest I have ever seen and, as the 

moon rose, the nearby wolves burst into a spine-tingling chorus. 

’

grasses, stunning countryside, and the sea beyond. 

Inside was a pleasing mix of natural materials; soft 

leather, weathered wood, patterned hide, cosy wool and 

more, combined with modern design furniture and chic 

uplighting. There were lots of lovely touches: organic 

Bamford toiletries in the cool, contemporary bathroom; a 

bottle of Gusbourne’s delicious Kentish sparkling wine on 

ice; and a complimentary minibar filled with local apple 

juice, a selection of snacks and a bag of marshmallows 

for toasting on the firepit outside. In the tapered ceiling 

high above the huge (and very comfortable) bed, 

more windows provided a rather magical stargazing 

opportunity, but eye masks had also been thoughtfully 

provided in case the morning light might disturb our lie-in. 

We immediately popped the bottle, kicked back on the 

two comfortable steamer chairs outside in our beautifully 

planted seating area, and watched the wildlife graze as 

the sun went down. We went for an evening stroll and 

found Zuku the southern white rhino just metres from 

our wigwam, and we also managed to spot Milena and 

Sayan, our elusive and incredibly rare Amur leopard 

neighbours, as they emerged from an afternoon snooze. 

All this excitement and suddenly I was as hungry as a 

wolf (more on them later). A 10-minute buggy ride brought 

us to The Garden Room; what was once the stable yard of 

the historic hotel is now a serene, glass-ceilinged restaurant 

filled with faux floral walls, plump patterned cushions and 

some lovely original features. Open to both hotel guests and 

non residents, this stylish space is open all day and has a 

rather glamorous cocktail bar too. 

The food menu is based on seasonal ingredients, all 

locally sourced and used to create sophisticated dishes 

such as grilled sea bass with brown crab cake, cider, leek 

and mussel chowder, and slow-cooked beef short ribs 

with a parsnip and potato rosti and pecorino cream. The 

freshly baked focaccia was incredibly moreish, especially 

when slathered in the delicious seaweed butter that it 

came with, and the chocolate and orange baked Alaska 

also slipped down a treat. 

Overnight guests are free to roam until 10pm, long 

after the day-visitors have left, so after dinner we strolled 

through the park as night began to fall, listening to the 

noises of the animals. The grey wolves were at their 

busiest, as was a male lion, prowling the perimeter of his 

enclosure. Back at the wigwam, we lit the firepit, sunken 

and carefully sheltered from the wind. The stars were some 

of the brightest I have ever seen and, as the moon rose, the 

nearby wolves burst into a spine-tingling chorus. 


The following morning, one click of a button from bed 

and the blinds that very effectively covered the wigwam’s 

huge windows automatically lowered, revealing a herd of 

sunlit antelope and a vast expanse of rolling green fields 

beyond. Was I still dreaming? We leapt out of bed, keen to 

catch the animals enjoying their breakfast. There are three 

groups of western lowland gorillas at Port Lympne, and 

to watch them quietly tucking into their first meal of the 

day was a very special sight. The younger members of the 

family played and tussled over bits of veg, while the wise 

older silverback looked on. 

Our breakfast was similarly covetable; back at The 

Garden Room, buttermilk pancakes with crispy bacon, 

avocado on toasted focaccia, eggs Benedict and more were 

all on offer. Fully fuelled, it was time for our next adventure… 

All short breaks include access to Port Lympne’s sister 

park, Howletts, which is around a 30-minue drive from 

Port Lympne. It is home to over 390 animals across 

90 acres, including giant anteaters, big cats, gorillas, 

monkeys and the largest herd of African elephants in the 

UK, but not for long. 

Incredibly, working with The Aspinall Foundation, 

Howletts is preparing to transport these 13 beautiful 

animals from Kent back to their ancestral homeland of 

Kenya. It will be the first time an entire herd has ever been 

returned to Africa from Europe, and hopes to not only 

prove that rewilding on such a scale can be done, but that 

it should be done. 

Both reserves offer a plethora of animal experiences, 

and at Howlett’s we were lucky enough to have a 

wonderful ‘Rhino Encounter’. This involved a behind-thescenes 

peek inside the rhino house (much cleaner than 

expected…) with an incredibly knowledgeable ranger 

called Dom, before we got to meet and handfeed Sammy, 

a 23-year-old black rhino with a penchant for carrots. 

Looking back on our time at Port Lympne and 

Howletts, it all felt slightly surreal. Had we really been on 

safari and hand-fed a rhino? Watched a group of gorillas 

eating breakfast? Slept in a luxurious wigwam next to 

leopards and admired grazing antelope from bed? And 

then there was the golf buggy and exploring the park 

after-hours… listening to the wolves howl at the moon by a 

crackling firepit... the whole thing seemed like a dream. 

A wonderful, unforgettable dream, set not in Africa, 

but in the Kentish savanna. 

Overnight accommodation at Port Lympne starts at 

£159 per night. Leopard Creek Wigwams from £509, 

Cabins from £439 and Cubs from £339 per night 

aspinallfoundation.org/port-lympne 


The Home of Country Clothing 

SCOTLAND’S MOST PRESTIGIOUS INDEPENDENT STORE 

The House of Bruar is the leading designer of country 

clothing in Great Britain, creating a range of contemporary 

country classics in quality natural fibre materials. 

Our expansive and spacious departments offer 

everything needed to enjoy the best in country living. 

Our Pure Cashmere and Knitwear Hall - the largest in 

the UK - is full of stunning garments in a spectacular 

range of colours. Alongside our own original creations 

you’ll also find a host of leading brands throughout 

our Ladieswear Department, including Crew Clothing, 

Joules, Marble, Seasalt and Barbour, while our Shoe 

and Handbag Department showcases Dubarry, Ariat, 

Brics and Gianni Conti. 

Men are equally well-catered for in our 20,000 

square foot Menswear Hall, with our own exclusive 

British technical tweeds sitting alongside our newly 

introduced Made-to-Measure Scottish Kilt Department, 

specialising in traditional Tartans and country plaids. 

Shirts, shoes and impressive designs in leather, long 

staple pure virgin cashmere tailoring and natural fibre 

knitwear are joined by top brands including Hugo Boss, 

Gant, Levi’s, Barbour and Schoffel. Our dedicated 

Stalking Department brings you the best sporting 

equipment from leading manufacturers including 

Meindl, Harkila & Deer Hunter - everything you need 

to get the most out of your favourite country pursuits. 

The Fishing Tackle Shop, which is now situated in 

our Menswear Hall, offers a haven for the keen angler, 

providing equipment, accessories and even advice 

from our expert staff. 

Discover a treasure trove of gift ideas in our Present 

Shop and Country Living Department, where you’ll 

find unique items for the home, garden and kitchen - and 

even the family dog! Our Jewel in the Crown jewellery 

shop and Rural Art Gallery adds to the experience, 

celebrating Britain’s glorious wildlife and landscapes 

in sculptures, paintings and ceramics. 

Step into our Whisky Shop, a true celebration of 

Scotland’s beloved tipple and a destination in itself. 

Stocked with the finest heritage single malts from all 

across the country - including rare expressions from 

Macallan - it’s an essential stop for all aficionados of 

Scottish whisky. 

Taste the best of Scotland’s natural larder at our Food 

Hall, Delicatessen and Restaurant. Our award-winning 

Butchery offers quality cuts from local providers, while 

the Bakery entices with everything from freshly made 

barista coffee to homemade sandwiches, For seafood 

enthusiasts, our unique Fish & Chip shop specialises 

in fresh squid and lobster, and our brand-new A9 Pie 

Shop provides a haven for hungry travellers seeking 

the ultimate British comfort food! 

No journey through Scotland is complete without a 

visit to The House of Bruar, conveniently located just 

off the A9 ten miles north of Pitlochry. 

Shown here is a taste of our new Autumn/Winter 

2023-24 range. To order a copy of the latest mail order 

catalogue please call us or visit our website. 

The House of Bruar by Blair Atholl, Perthshire, PH18 5TW. Telephone: 01796 483 236 Email: office@houseofbruar.com 

WWW.HOUSEOFBRUAR.COM

SERENITY ON THE 

Shoreline 

Trevone feels like a well-kept secret, but a hop, skip, and jump and 

you're on one of the finest stretches of North Cornwall's coast. With 

Seven Bays beaches and gourmet Padstow just a few miles away, you’re 

never too far from the local food and culture. We make ourselves at 

home at the sumptuous new coastal bolthole Atlanta Trevone... 

Text by Jessica Way 


When you look at photos of Atlanta 

Trevone perched on a rugged clifftop 

with the deep ocean swells below, 

you might assume that this Victorian 

terrace and rocky beach are remote and isolated. But 

what you can’t see from the pictures is the beautiful 

village and sandy beach of Porthmissen Bay nestled 

behind it, just a stone’s throw from the front door. 

Trevone is truly a picturesque destination with a 

welcoming holiday atmosphere. The village is dotted 

with luxury holiday homes, a post office, farm shop, 

pub, surf school and cafe. Atlantic Terrace, built in 

1899, holds a special place in the bay as one of the 

oldest properties. It’s so close to the shore that you 

can effortlessly step out in your swimsuit, fall asleep 

to the soothing sound of the sea and enjoy watching 

the waves over breakfast. 

Atlanta Trevone’s unrivalled location and 

uninterrupted sea views meant that when it came to 

redeveloping the property, owners Jessica and Ash 

Alken-Theasby knew the inside needed to impress in 

equal measure. They have rebuilt and designed their 

Cornwall Collection to perfection. 

Atlanta Trevone launched last year (2022) and 

gained widespread journalist coverage, resulting 

in a flurry of bookings as lively as the Atlantic in a 

storm. The team, led by Jess and Ash, continued 

developing their properties, including their fifth one, 

The Net Loft, which opened just a few months ago. 

Given the tight deadline, they worked tirelessly to 

complete the project, still painting and decorating 

and even receiving mattress deliveries with just one 

week to go before their first guests were due to arrive. 

Meanwhile, we were putting our feet up and making 

ourselves at home in One Atlanta. 


‘ 

From Atlanta Trevone’s doorstep, the South West Coast Path is your gateway to 

a stunning stretch of coastline home to the Seven Bays, a collection of sandy coves. 

Lacing up your walking boots and going outside for a coastal hike is a must. 

’ 

It’s easy to imagine that even the most discerning 

guests will appreciate the apartments' no expensespared 

amenities as an upgrade from the norm. I’m 

talking Neptune kitchens with Lacanche cookers (electric 

agas), Le Creuset cookware, Soho House crockery, an 

instant-hot-water tap and beautiful roll-top baths by 

Drummonds. Not to mention the mattresses, which cost 

£10,000 each (we slept well). 

And while all properties exceed the lavishly designed 

benchmark of a spacious five-star London hotel, they 

come in various shapes and sizes – the smallest of the 

properties, The Net Loft, can accommodate up to four 

guests, while The Penthouse, formerly the old attic rooms 

of the townhouse, sleeps up to eight comfortably. Each 

property has unique features, such as the hand-painted 

Captain’s bed, outdoor bath and cinema room in The 

Net Loft; the private courtyard and original Victorian 

tiles in Atlanta House; and the inset balcony area of The 

Penthouse. Whichever property you choose, you won't 

be disappointed, and with Atlanta Trevone facing west, 

the sunsets framed by Trevose head in the distance are 

sensational all year round. 

Jess’s deep connection to Trevone is evident in the 

design of this stunning property, which reflects the area’s 

rich history and sense of place. Her family has lived in 

Trevone for generations, and they have owned these 

grand Victorian terraces for as long as she can remember. 

Fulfilling her father’s dream of renovating the building and 

replacing its roof (with reclaimed Cornish slate tiles) was a 

special tribute to the legacy of this property. 

Inside, little treasures, from old photographs and rare 

bottles to luxurious fabrics and throws, have been artfully 

placed to create a stylish and welcoming home – and 

fireplaces with log burners provide cosiness during winter 

evenings. Guests arrive to a fridge stocked with fresh 

Cornish milk, butter, and bacon and a hamper with yet 

more of Cornwall’s finest delicacies, such as elderflower 

cake, apple juice, homemade granola, and rhubarb jam. 

To top it all off, there’s a delightful bottle of Classic Cuvée 

Knightor, produced at the local vineyard in Portscatho, 

ready to be enjoyed while taking in the spectacular 

picture-perfect vista. 

If you need to replenish your milk supply or prepare 

for an in-house feast, the Trevone Farm Shop is a great 

option. They are open seven days a week and offer a 

variety of fresh produce, including pastries, pasties and 

bread, as well as fruit and veg boxes. You can also find a 

range of beverages, from wine and beer to sweet treats. 

Each morning of our stay we braved a refreshing dip 

in Trevone’s natural tidal pool, known by locals as Tinker 

Bunny’s Bathing Pool. It is one of the largest natural sea 

pools of the Cornwall coast. It feels wonderful to be able 

to simply wrap on your fluffy robe and saunter down there 

(and back) within minutes – and the water is crystal clear 

as, thanks to Mother Nature, the pool is filled and emptied 

at least twice daily. Check the tide times, as it can get a bit 

choppy when the waves begin to wash over the seawall. 


From Atlanta Trevone’s doorstep, the South West Coast 

Path is your gateway to a stunning stretch of coastline, 

home to the Seven Bays, a collection of sandy coves. 

Lacing up your walking boots and going outside for a 

coastal hike is a must. 

On our first day, we walked from Trevone to Harlyn Bay 

and then ventured inland for an incredible Sunday Roast 

at THE PIG. Interestingly enough, the 15th-century Harlyn 

House was actually Jess’s family home and a working 

farmhouse before her father sold it to Robin Hutson to 

transform into one of his signature PIG hotels with kitchen 

garden (and highly acclaimed 25-mile menus) four years 

ago. Jess helped with the THE PIG-at Harlyn Bay prior to 

its opening, and today the celebrated interior designer 

Judy Hutson (responsible for THE PIG hotel designs 

and married to Robin) is returning the camaraderie, 

contributing invaluable design and guidance to Jess. For a 

more relaxed setting, The Lobster Shed here offers all-day 

dining on benches alfresco-style or under canvas. 

We continued our scenic Sunday stroll, passing the 

Trevose Golf & Country Club, which looked like a great 

place to play a round, before arriving at Treyarnon Bay. 

As we arrived, ready for a swim, the coastguards were just 

leaving and issued a warning that the currents were very 

strong and it was unsafe to swim in the sea. However, here 

there is another natural sea pool nestled within the rocks, 

and with the tide on our side it was perfect for a safe swim. 

Having ticked Trevone, Harlyn and Treyarnon off the 

list of Seven Bays, we were delighted that our picturesque 

coastal loop around Trevose Head took us past another 

three of these wonderful beaches: Mother Ivey’s, Booby’s 

and Constantine, a stretch where you are often lucky 

enough to see dolphins and seals. 

As we continued our stroll, we were treated to breathtaking 

views of Trevose Head Lighthouse and the stunning setting of 

the RNLI Padstow Lifeboat Station, both iconic landmarks 

in the area. It was incredible to see the diverse range of 

birds, including corn buntings, fulmars, and skylarks. 

It’s no wonder that Jessica’s great-grandfather JHC 

Millar was inspired by this beautiful location to become a 

waterscape artist. His oil paintings of stormy seascapes 

are truly stunning, and one of his works is even owned by 

the royal family and hangs in Osborne House. 

Back in One Atlanta, we couldn’t help but admire some 

of Millar’s most famous works adorning the freshly painted 

walls, and pointing out some of the landscapes we had 

seen earlier that day. 


For Michelin-star quality there's Paul Ainsworth’s No6, 

for 3–5 course lunches served in a cosy polytunnel. There's 

Padstow Kitchen Garden, one of Jess’s family ‘favorito’s’; 

Caffè Rojano, serving legendary Whoopsy Splunker 

puddings; or catch a ferry over to Rock (ferries run every 

20 minutes) to Paul Ainsworth's pub, The Mariners. 

The Seafood Restaurant, Rick Stein’s flagship venue 

(where his culinary empire began) together with his more 

informal St Petroc’s Bistro and three further Rick Stein 

establishments can also be found in Padstow, so it’s really 

no surprise the town has been dubbed Padstein. 

Activities are no less plentiful – you can take a tour 

inside the Padstow Lobster Hatchery, try to catch your 

own under the guidance of experts on a fishing trip, or 

look out for basking sharks on a sealife safari. 

That evening we enjoyed freshly grilled and battered 

fish at The Cornish Arms in St Merryn – and following 

our deliciously cooked food the general manager kindly 

gave us a tour of their six new shepherd’s huts. Set in 

a picturesque spot sheltered by woodlands behind the 

pub, their innovative ‘Heat, Sleep, Retreat’ staycation is 

a collaboration with Saunas by The Sea – part of a new 

craze of wood-fired pop-up saunas, now on the beaches of 

Harlyn Bay and Polzeath. 

If you feel like staying in for dinner (and who would 

blame you!), ordering from the Stein's at Home online 

shop is another option for a taste of Rick Stein's famous 

fresh seafood caught from around the Cornish coast. If 

the weather is good, you can’t go wrong with an ultimate 

seafood spread delivered to your door for you to barbecue 

and enjoy alfresco on Atlanta Trevone’s terrace. 

On our final day in Atlanta Trevone we walked to 

Padstow. The coastal path leads you from Porthmissen 

beach up past the 80ft-deep giant Trevone Round Hole – 

this dramatic tourist attraction was the result of a cave-top 

collapse. You pass the lovely sheltered sandy beaches of 

Hawker’s Cove, Harbour Cove and St George’s Cove, and 

the panoramic views from Stepper Point are breathtaking. 

In the historic fishing village of Padstow there are plenty 

of shops (don't miss Tidings the year-round Christmas 

shop!), cafes, galleries, stylish lunchrooms and swanky 

foodie establishments. 

We chose to hire bikes and cycle the Camel Trail. This 

17.5 mile out-and-back flat bike ride takes you along the 

estuary, with lovely views from Padstow to Bodmin. 

Halfway along in Wadebridge we stopped in at Tim’s 

Place in Foundry Court for a scrumptious Full Cornish with 

St Ewe eggs followed by a slice of homemade cake. We 

were lucky enough to be served by Tim himself, a friend of 


‘ 

It might be easy to forget your emails and daily life pressures, but 

acknowledging that your time here is almost up is a much greater challenge...’ 

Ash’s, who opened his restaurant – recently celebrating its 

10th year – when he was aged just 18. 

If you make it to the Bodmin end of the trail, you’ll find 

Camel Valley Vineyard, where you could take a tour or 

simply enjoy a glass of wine on the terrace. 

Cycling back, we couldn’t resist a hot-chocolate stop 

at the Atlantic Coast Express – a beautifully converted 

vintage train carriage, conveniently located at the halfway 

point of the trail serving ‘ACE’ alfresco food and drinks. 

Just one night in Atlanta Trevone and it becomes a 

second home. In fact, you feel so relaxed here that during 

an evening spent cooking up a storm in your lavish 

kitchen, playing board games and gazing out to sea, you 

need to remind yourself you are not in an endless Cornish 

dream. It might be easy to forget your emails and daily life 

pressures, but acknowledging your time here is almost up 

is a much greater challenge. It’s time to check out – but not 

before one last quick dip in Tinker Bunny’s Bathing Pool? 

OK, count me in, I’m plunging in first... 

Atlanta Trevone is a set of five luxury self-catered holiday 

homes, prices from £1,400 per week. 

For more information: atlantatrevonebay.com 


A JOURNEY 

through time 

Delve into Britain’s incredible history, heritage and culture in 

interactive style with these unique one-of-a-kind experiences 

Text by Emma O'Reilly 


1BEST FOR EQUESTRIAN FANS 

Catch race fever at Britain’s horsey HQ 

Newmarket has a horse-racing pedigree like no 

other town, dating back to the reign of James I over 

400 years ago, and still with royal connections today. A 

day at the races isn’t the only way to enjoy it. On a halfday 

‘Newmarket Experience’, watch horses and their 

jockeys limber up for the day on the Newmarket Gallops, 

visit a working racing yard then, via some coffee and 

cake, finish up at The National Stud. Spread across 500 

acres, it breeds and trains some of Britain’s finest horses. 

Ex champions come here for a pampered retirement too 

– meet celebs like Stradivarius, The Tin Man and Lord 

Windermere, alongside breeding mares and, if you’re 

lucky, some cute newborn foals. 

Newmarket Experience tours are on Fridays, year-round 

and cost £65 per person (private tours also available for an 

extra charge); discovernewmarket.co.uk 

2BEST FOR CHOCOHOLICS 

Make your own sweet treats in the 

chocolate capital 

Chocolate…most of us love it. Make it yourself 

and it tastes all the sweeter. There’s nowhere better to 

learn than in York, with its 300-year tradition of chocolate 

making. At one time, 14,000 people were employed here 

in huge factories, from the likes of Rowntree’s, Terry’s and 

Craven’s. York’s Chocolate Story can tell you more – and 

now it is also offering a new VIP Chocolate Masterclass 

to give more of a hands-on, not to mention a mouths-on 

experience. You will soon be tempering, moulding, filling 

and sealing, piping and decorating your own creations. 

Before you’re let loose, an expert chocolatier will first 

demonstrate the techniques. When you’re done, your 

chocolates will be beautifully packaged up for you to take 

home. Or you could just wolf them all yourself before you 

get there! 

The VIP masterclass is from 7pm to 9pm on Thursday nights 

and costs £79.95 per person; yorkschocolatestory.com 


3 

BEST FOR 

CULTURE 

VULTURES 

See exquisite 

ceramics crafted at 

Wedgwood 

World of Wedgwood, deep in 

the Staffordshire countryside, 

is home to one of Britain’s 

most iconic brands. It 

started in 1759, when Josiah 

Wedgwood first set up his 

small, independent pottery. 

Fast-forward to today and it is 

a pleasure to see his pioneering 

techniques still being used. 

Go behind the scenes on a 

factory tour to observe pieces 

being cast, glazed, decorated 

and gilded. Wedgwood is best 

known for its matte pale-blue 

Jasper stoneware, decorated 

with white motifs that depict 

scenes from Greek and Roman 

mythology. Then, check out 

more ceramic masterpieces 

– from delicate porcelain tea 

sets to intricately decorated 

vases – at the V&A Wedgwood 

Collection. Of course, there 

is optional souvenir shopping 

to finish, and afternoon tea 

served on the finest – what 

else? – Wedgwood china. 

Free entry to V&A 

Wedgwood Collection. Factory 

tours are £12.50 for adults, free 

for under 12s. Clay-throwing 

sessions are from £27.50; 

worldofwedgwood.com 


5 

BEST FOR MONEYMAKERS 

Strike your own coin at The Royal Mint 

Forget sticks of rock and key rings. At the UK’s 

oldest company, established AD886, create 

your own commemorative coin as an unsual souvenir. 

It’s less difficult than it sounds – just push a button to 

activate the press and your ‘blank’ will be struck three 

times with 105 tonnes of pressure. Designs change every 

few months – a current one celebrates Lord of the Rings 

author Tolkien. The Royal Mint originated in London 

but moved to its present modern site near Cardiff in 

the 1960s. On the Royal Mint Experience tour, take 

privileged steps onto the factory floor, and see displays 

of rare and old coins. At new exhibition ‘Crowned: The 

Making of a Monarch’, pose for a photo sitting in a lifesized 

Coronation Chair and see coins featuring every 

monarch from William I in 1066 to King Charles III. 

Tours from £13.50 per adult, £10.35 per child. Coin strike 

costs £7.50; royalmint.com 

4BEST FOR PETROLHEADS 

Have the drive of your life on Britain’s best 

racetrack 

Move over Lewis Hamilton, Max Verstappen 

and the rest. There’s a new driver in town. Take the wheel 

at the home of the British Grand Prix – and our longest, 

toughest racetrack ever since it opened in 1948 – for your 

very own Silverstone Experience. Choose from a Formula 

Single Seater Experience, a Caterham Drift Experience or 

a Racing Car Experience – maybe you’ll go for a Ferrari or 

an Aston Martin Vantage. Brand new for this year (2023) 

is the seriously stylish McLaren racing car for the road, 

which has a top speed of 200 face-bending miles per 

hour and travels 0–60mph in 2.8 seconds. A professional 

instructor will train you and then it’s up to you – no speed 

restrictions, no points on your licence. Go for it! Treat 

yourself or someone special. 

Silverstone Experience vouchers cost from £139 and include 

two adult tickets to the Silverstone Museum; silverstone.co.uk 


6 

BEST FOR (UNDERGROUND) 

TRAINSPOTTERS 

Explore fascinating bits of London never 

seen by the general public 

Did you know there are huge areas of the London 

Underground not accessible to the public? Unless, 

that is, you book a London Transport Museum Hidden 

London tour. On the Charing Cross station tour, walk 

beneath Trafalgar Square to see parts of the Jubilee 

line closed since 1999 and used as a film and TV 

location for the likes of Killing Eve, Skyfall and Thor:The 

Dark World. The Down Street tour looks at a stationonly 

open from 1907 to 1932, then used as the Railway 

Executive Committee’s secret HQ and as a shelter for 

Churchill at the height of the Blitz during WWII. The 

newest tour is Baker Street, oldest underground station 

in the world, opened in 1863. See original platforms 

and disused lift shafts and hear how it developed from 

Victorian underground steam travel to today’s 10 

platforms and five underground lines. 

Tours cost from £44 (£39 concessions). Under 14s not 

permitted; ltmuseum.co.uk/hidden-london 

7BEST FOR TEA DRINKERS 

Wander through Britain’s first tea 

plantation 

We are famously a nation of avid tea lovers – but 

how about tasting a ‘proper’ British brew, from leaves 

grown right here? Tea bushes were first established 

on the 700-year-old Tregothnan estate in Cornwall 

in 2005. There are now 26 miles of them, thriving in a 

breathtakingly beautiful creekside area of the Fal River. 

The company’s River Garden Tour takes visitors on a 

fascinating wander through the plantation, stopping 

to pick some fresh leaf tips along the way and to learn 

about different varieties, and the history, of tea, plus the 

secrets of successful planting and harvesting. Your guide 

will also lead you through orchards of ancient apples and 

rare Kea plums. Afterwards, taste some teas and visit the 

shop so you can stock up on your favourite to continue 

the experience when you get home. 

The River Garden Tour takes two to three hours and costs 

from £65; tregothnan.co.uk 


8 

BEST FOR HISTORY BUFFS 

The true story of the Titanic 

Titanic – we all know how the unsinkable ship 

sank, along with over 1,500 of her passengers. 

Find out more by going to the place where Titanic was 

built. Harland & Wolff’s shipyard in Belfast is home 

to the Titanic Experience, with interactive galleries 

combining immersive technology – sights, smells, 

sounds – with personal stories. It whisks you from 

shipyard to final resting place, via the build, the launch 

and the sinking. Most of Titanic’s treasures went down 

with her and remain on the seabed, but there are some 

on show here, including Wallace Hartley’s violin. He 

was the violinist and bandleader who asked fellow band 

members to continue playing as the ship sunk. None 

survived. Rather poignantly it is engraved – ‘For Wallace 

on the occasion of our engagement from Maria’. Oh, 

the stories it could tell. 

Tickets for the Titanic Experience cost £24.95 (adult), 

£11 (child); titanicbelfast.com 


9 

BEST FOR FASHION FIENDS 

Play dress-up – period-costume style 

You don’t have to be a child to play at dressingup. 

Adventures in Costume at Grantown 

Museum, on the edge of the Cairngorms, is a chance for 

anyone to try on handmade replica costumes. 

Book an hour at the museum with an expert dresser 

who will help you negotiate everything from petticoats 

and panniers, corsets to crinolines. There are 23 

handmade costumes (for men, women and children), 

loosely based on favourites from the screen and crafted 

in sumptuous fabrics. Popular outfits include those based 

on Outlander, The Young Victoria, Downton Abbey and 

Pride & Prejudice. Elsewhere, you can find out about the 

history of Grantown, whose wealth was once based on 

its linen production. 

A one-hour costume experience costs £50 for two people 

and includes the use of a personal dresser; grantownmuseum.co.uk 

IMAGES © JIM DUNN / CHRISTOPHER ISON 


10 

BEST FOR MUSIC 

LOVERS 

Visit the 

neighbouring 

homes of two music legends 

One was a baroque composer, 

known for his operas and oratorios, 

the other a 1960s rock legend. 

There may seem to be little 

connecting the two, other than the 

pioneering music they both created. 

However, they also share an 

address – Brook Street in Mayfair. 

Handel lived here 300 years ago 

at number 25, Hendrix in the late 

1960s, next door at number 23. 

Handel Hendrix House is now fresh 

from a £3 million refurbishment. 

So, after checking out the bedroom 

where Hendrix wrote and rehearsed 

and hung out with friends like 

George Harrison, pop into Handel’s 

kitchen, parlour and dining room, 

where he sat on his piano and 

composed classical greats, such as 

'Messiah' and 'Zadok the Priest' 

(performed at the coronation 

of King Charles III). Exhibition 

spaces detail the musicians’ lives 

and times plus there are regular 

talks, live music and activities 

– including a monthly jam with 

a professional guitarist in Jimi’s 

bedroom! 

Tickets are £14 per adult. Under 

16s free; handelhendrix.org 


Competition time! 

WIN a break to the Cotswolds 

Enter our competition to win a two-night luxury Cotswolds break, 

staying at Ellenborough Park and Barnsley House, in celebration 

of the launch of PoB Breaks; a series of immersive journeys 

The Cotswolds is an impossibly picturesque 

location with picture-postcard towns and 

villages at every turn, impressive country 

estates, beautiful countryside, and quaint 

honey-coloured stone cottages. 

Cotswolds Allure is a six-night immersive journey 

launched by PoB Hotels (a collection of the finest places 

to eat, stay and unwind within the British Isles) as part 

of their new series of curated holidays. 

From Northbound Wellness and Highlands & 

Islands to Back to Nature in Wales, and Romance & 

Restoration in the South East, with stays at PoB Hotels 

there is a tailored break for every occasion. 

To celebrate the launch of PoB Breaks and 

Cotswolds Allure, British Travel Journal has teamed up 

with PoB Hotels to offer you the opportunity to win a 

Cotswolds Mini-Break – to include a luxury overnight 

night stay and breakfast in two beautiful hotels in 

PoB's Cotswolds collection, Ellenborough Park and 

Barnsley House. 


Scan here to enter · britishtraveljournal.com · 

Ellenborough Park is a British manor 

house with 90 acres of glorious grounds 

next to the famous Cheltenham 

Racecourse. Barnsley House is nestled 

in gardens created by renowned garden 

designer Rosemary Verey and has its 

very own cinema. 

The prize includes dinner at The 

Boot, Barnsley House's pub just a short 

walk through the beautiful village of 

Barnsley, plus dinner in The Restaurant 

at Ellenborough Park. 

Ellenborough Park 

As part of your Cotswolds Allure 

journey, PoB recommends visiting the 

capital of the Cotswolds – Cirencester, 

especially for farmers’ market day to see 

the town at its best and to learn about 

the Roman roots of the Cotswolds 

in the Corinium Museum (the prize 

includes two tickets). And just outside 

the town, the serene Coln Valley, with 

the much-loved Bibury village makes 

for picture-perfect memories. You 

might wish to head west to the town of 

Barnsley House 

Cheltenham; a place known for its lively 

festivals of jazz, literature, and horse 

racing, packed with independent bars, 

restaurants, and boutiques. 

From here, the Cotswold Way rises to 

both the north and south – it’s 102 miles 

long but walking just a small section of 

it brings you to the essence of the local 

countryside. ◆ 

How to enter 

ON OUR WEBSITE 

britishtraveljournal.com 

Last entries 31 December 2023. 

Prize is to be taken before 30 June 

2024 – excluding the New Year. 


Rewilding IN 

THE COTSWOLDS 

From the nature-inspired interior to the surrounding 

wildflower meadows, the beautiful Calcot & Spa in 

Tetbury is a country hotel that’s wild at heart... 

Text by Amy Bonifas

Country manor hotels in the Cotswolds aren’t 

hard to find. But, few have the charm and 

warmth of the Calcot & Spa. Near the pretty 

town of Tetbury, the Calcot is an idyllic place 

for families, couples and solo travellers alike – a sprawling 

grand manor on the outside, and a stylishly cosy haven 

on the inside. Arriving here from the heat and stress of 

London is quite literally a breath of fresh air, and I feel 

instantly soothed by the sounds of the birds and the 

honey-hued Cotswold stone. 

Calcot first opened its doors as a luxury hotel in the 

1980s, but the building has a history that dates back over 

700 years. You can still see the original stone in The Barn 

(the hotel’s event space) and the 16th-century manor 

house stands proudly. 

Respectful of its heritage, the team at Calcot have 

sensitively restored the original outbuildings into a 

collection of sumptuous timber-beamed bedrooms. But, 

rather than rest on its laurels, the hotel has also led the 

way with regular updates and renovations to keep guests 

surprised and delighted. Now, it's home to vast family 

suites and cottages, a destination restaurant, an outdoor 

courtyard pool and a very well-appointed spa – with even 

bigger plans to improve their health and fitness offering 

early next year (2024). 

However, it’s the hotel’s passion for rewilding that 

makes this place so unique. Over the last 25 years, a 

handful of the team’s staff – including the excellent 

groundskeeper Steve – have taken on a thoughtful rewilding 

project. They’ve worked to restore the 240 acres of 


Cotswolds’ countryside from farmland back to a mosaic 

of natural wildflower and grass meadows, including a new 

woodland area with nearly 22,000 native trees. 

And all the hard work is paying off. Several rare species 

of birds, animals and flowers have returned to the estate, 

and the grounds are alive with skylarks, hares, roe deer, 

marbled butterflies and gorgeous spotted orchids. There’s 

even a barn owl with three owlets nesting in the trees 

above the nature trail. 

To help hotel guests connect more with all this glorious 

nature, you can now book their special rewilding package. 

This includes an early morning wildlife walk and talk with 

Ed Drewitt – a passionate and inspiring local naturalist. 

The walk begins at 6am, and I can confirm this is totally 

worth it for the chance to step into a real-life morning 

meditation. 

Think: gentle morning birdsong, a peaceful wander 

across wildflower meadows, and the chance to spot rare 

birds, such as corn buntings and (the pleasingly named) 

willow warblers. Both have been in decline since the 

1960s, so a sighting through Ed’s binoculars is a real treat. 

So far, so wholesome. 

Then, there are the resident honeybees. Perhaps my 

favourite part of the rewilding experience is where guests 

have the chance to suit up and get up close and personal 

with a busy hive, all under the watchful eye of beekeeper 

Martin Knight. Having swapped the daily grind for 

country life, he’s in his element, lifting each tiered frame 

of the hive to show us the glistening wells of honey and 

newly laid eggs. Watching them buzz happily about their 

business is good for the soul. 

If you fancy a taste of the local honey, you need only 

venture as far as the hotel’s newly launched bar and cafe, 

The Hive. With plush sofas, botanical prints and stylish 

Pooky lighting, the space is pulled together with a natureinspired 

colour palette of sage and forest greens. 

Serving afternoon tea by day – including the most 

buttery-soft scones – and stiff cocktails by night, The 

Hive's atmosphere is like a cool members’ club, except less 

pretentious and more relaxed. Order the Beehive Martini, 

made with sticky marmalade vodka, lemon juice and 

Calcot’s own honey. 

Dinner is an even bigger treat, served in the recently 

renovated Brasserie. The dining room hums with 

IMAGE © GETTY IMAGES 


‘ 

If you fancy a taste of the local honey... order the Beehive Martini, made with 

sticky marmalade vodka, lemon juice and Calcot’s own honey 

’ 

contented families, couples and friends. There’s a huge 

skylight flooding the room with natural light during the 

lighter evenings, and the terrace doors are flung open to 

offer views of the rolling countryside. 

Executive chef Richard Davies is a former Great British 

Menu winner and ex-chef de partie for Gordon Ramsay. 

He favours modern British dishes with a dose of French 

influence, and the menu is overflowing with classics with 

a twist. I’d strongly advise ordering the cheese soufflé to 

start – it’s been on the menu for years and comes perfectly 

puffed and golden, with a rich truffle sauce. 

Other highlights include the Orkney scallops, served in 

their shell and coloured with baked apple and tangy yuzu 

butter; and the indulgent Chateaubriand, bred at nearby 

Stokes Marsh Farm, accompanied with bubbling, cheesy 

cauliflower and broccoli. 

Back in my room, the nature theme continues – the soft 

furnishings are adorned with delicate leaf prints and 


two sets of French doors open out onto miles and miles 

of green. My family suite has a huge king bed, perfect for 

midday naps, and a bathroom designed with self-care in 

mind – a claw-foot tub takes centre stage and the shelves 

are stocked with Aromatherapy Associates products. 

The extra twin room and bathroom are great if you 

have kids in tow, and there’s a sweet wooden play area 

just beyond the patio. Parents will be pleased to know 

that the hotel offers four hours of free childcare in the Play 

Barn crèche, and there’s also the Mez for older children 

aged eight and over. But this isn’t just any children’s club, 

this is a Calcot children’s club, complete with games 

consoles, crafty activities and even a 12-seater cinema. In 

the pipeline for early next year (2024), are plans for five 

more family suites and three treehouses overlooking the 

grounds. 

There’s plenty that makes Calcot feel just for grownups 

too. On my last day, the luxurious spa is calling, so I follow 

my full Cotswold English breakfast with a quick stroll over 

– soaking up the smell of the flowers and the earth after 

the morning rain (we are in England, after all). 

More active types might take one of the hotel’s 

complimentary bikes for a spin, run the 3km nature trail 

or play a round of tennis on one of the tennis courts, 

but the promise of a Forest Therapy massage is too 

tempting. I half fall asleep as my therapist uses a blend 

of natural cypress oils to ease my muscles and melt away 

any residual stress. She suggests pairing it with another 

mindful walk through the grounds for the ultimate 

meditative experience. 

Early next year, the hotel plans to launch a brand-new 

gym and fitness studio, complete with its own workspace 

and a regular programme of classes and wellbeing talks – 

plenty enough to draw the work-from-home crowd. I leave 

feeling re-energised and keen to return. It's not often that 

you find a hotel that manages to balance all the best mod 

cons with such a wild and down-to-earth philosophy. 

Rewilding at Calcot & Spa includes an early morning 

wildlife walk and talk with expert Ed Drewitt, a beekeeper talk 

with Martin from Knights Beekeeping, Calcot Spa and bikes 

access, full Cotswold breakfast each morning and a jar of 

Calcot honey on departure. From £850 for two nights, based 

on two sharing. (Without the package – during summer, 

rooms cost from £389 per night B&B. During winter, rooms 

cost from £264 per night B&B.) pobhotels.com; calcot.co 


Three local must-visit places 

when staying at Calcot & Spa 

Naturalist Ed Drewitt’s top tips 

for rewilding at home 

1. Let things grow a little wild 

If you have a lawn, give some of it back to local wildlife 

by letting a small section of it grow. Encouraging 

a diversity of longer grasses is great for insects like 

butterflies and grasshoppers, and the perfect excuse to 

spend a little less time mowing… 

2. Plant native wildflowers 

We tend to plant a lot of non-native plants in our 

gardens, so dedicate some space to some local 

wildflowers like cornflowers, poppies and yellow rattle. 

Wildflower.co.uk offers British seed mixes that bees 

and birds love. Or opt for plug plants (rooted seedlings 

that have started to grow) to save time. 

3. Feed the birds 

Nearly 30% of birds in the UK are declining, so 

providing a little extra food could help your local birds 

flourish, especially during dry or colder spells. Put out 

a variety of bird food like sunflower seeds, flaked maize 

and millet, and you’ll draw a whole variety of birds to 

your garden. Win-win. 

1. Sip local rosé at Woodchester Valley 

Vineyard 

You can try Woodchester’s rosé or sparkling rosé in 

Calcot’s restaurant. But, if you want to taste more, 

this beautiful vineyard is only a 10-minute drive 

away. Offering winery tours and guided tastings, it’s 

the perfect place for topping up your English wine 

knowledge. 

2. Explore Westonbirt Arboretum 

Westonbirt is home to 2,500 species of trees from 

around the world and five national tree collections. 

Book into one of the daily guided walks or take the 

kids and try out the canopy walkway and activity 

trails before a pit-stop lunch in the cafe – serving up 

seasonal fare with views across the treetops. 

3. Take a tour of Highgrove Gardens 

This is the home of King Charles III and Queen 

Camilla, and visitors are free to explore the stunning 

collection of interlinked gardens, designed by the King 

himself. From the traditional Cottage Garden to the 

Kitchen Garden overflowing with fruits and vegetables, 

this is the ideal spot for nature lovers, with highlights 

during every season. 

4. Create a woodpile and leave some fallen 

leaves 

Animals such as wasps, slowworms and frogs use piles 

of wood to hide and shelter through the colder months. 

Try piling a few large logs with the bark still attached 

in a quiet area of your garden. Fallen leaves are also a 

great spot for hedgehogs to hibernate, and when the 

leaves start to decay, the mulch can protect against 

frost in winter. 


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ISLAND 

IMMERSION 

Embrace the moment, stay longer, and connect with the 

British Isles on a PoB break, covering everywhere from the 

Scottish Highlands to the Channel Island of Jersey 



ADVERTORIAL 

How well do you know Britain? Perhaps you’ve 

ticked off the main sites, dashing off to see 

Stonehenge, or snatching a weekend break 

at Hadrian’s Wall. But have you taken in 

Devon’s two coastlines and brace of national parks on 

the same trip? Or tried a Rutland Pippin (a bit like a pork 

pie but shaped like an apple) after cycling or walking 

some of the 23-mile trail round Rutland Water in Britain’s 

smallest county? 

You may feel that you’ve ‘done’ Cornwall, the 

Cotswolds and Cumbria but why not tarry a while and 

discover new aspects to these destinations, enjoying 

the local culture, food and experiences as well as the 

honeypot sights. 

To help you delve a little further into the wonders 

of our nation, we’ve launched PoB Breaks, a series 

of immersive journeys covering everywhere from the 

Scottish Highlands to the Channel Island of Jersey. 

An interactive map on our website lets you plan 

your adventure at your own pace. As well as showing 

our member hotels, with their great food and beautiful 

bedrooms, it details local activities and experiences, 

from coasteering in Wales to a sunset river cruise in the 

Dedham Vale, on the Essex/Suffolk border. 

It’s easy to use – you just decide where you want to 

travel, then plan your route depending on how long you 

want to spend in each place. For some inspiration, take a 

look at the dozen curated breaks we’ve compiled. There’s 

something for everyone, whether you’re a foodie, a spa 

lover, a culture vulture or want to get active in the big 

outdoors. You can follow the suggested itineraries in full 

or just use the segments you find most appealing, adding 

your own ideas to make your perfect road trip. 

You might just want to potter around the South East, 

taking in castles through the ages – Anne Boleyn’s former 

home of Hever and the romantic Leeds Castle in Kent 


efore moving on to see Arundel’s medieval pile near the 

South Downs and the magnificence of Highclere Castle, 

aka Downton Abbey in Hampshire. 

Or perhaps you’d prefer to really get beneath the 

skin of Wales on a three-week odyssey, going stargazing 

in the Brecon Beacons, spotting puffins on Skomer 

Island and bottlenose dolphins in Cardigan Bay. In 

between summiting Snowdon on foot or by rail and zip 

wiring underground through an old slate mine, visit the 

Italianate village of Portmeirion and the medieval town 

of Conwy. Be sure to make time to enjoy an ice cream 

during a seaside stroll in Llandudno. 

Make the hotels you stay at along the way a key 

part of your experience. A journey through just part 

of Scotland will let you take in a variety of unique 

properties. Stay onboard the superyacht Fingal while you 

explore Edinburgh, play a game of tennis at Cromlix, 

Andy Murray’s property in the Scottish countryside near 

Dunblane, and admire artwork by the likes of Picasso 

and Lucian Freud in Braemar’s The Fife Arms. Then end 

up drinking in the wild beauty of the lochside setting 

at The Torridon on the North Coast 500 scenic route, 

perhaps with a glass of whisky in hand. 

Wine lovers should take a look at Berkshire’s Vineyard 

Hotel, with its floor-to-ceiling glass vault and 30,000 

bottles of wine, perhaps pairing it with Michelin-starred 

Gravetye Manor less than two hours away in Sussex to 

make the perfect epicurean treat. 


ADVERTORIAL 

For a gourmet extravaganza, stay in a series of hotels 

with Michelin-starred dining, including Hambleton Hall 

in Rutland, Northcote on the edge of the foodie paradise 

that is the Ribble Valley, and Gilpin in Cumbria. Fill in any 

empty corners by snacking on local specialities from pork 

pies to Stilton and wensleydale cheese. There are plenty of 

places to walk off those extra calories along the way. 

If spas are more your thing, you can decide between 

the superb facilities of a number of hotels specialising 

in wellness in the north, including County Durham’s 

Seaham Hall, or something more boutique, such as the 

Suffolk’s the Swan at Lavenham. 

On your travels, by all means tick off the key sites, 

but take time to enjoy other experiences too. Go fishing 

at Scaling Dam Reservoir in the Yorkshire Moors before 

exploring Castle Howard or enjoy winetasting at 

Gusbourne, one of the finest winemakers in Kent, after 

taking in the macabre history of Canterbury Cathedral. 

Connecting with the locals is part of the adventure. 

So in the pretty Cornish village of St Mawes, chat to 

the fishermen selling their catch at the quay then enjoy 

some of the freshest of seafood in a local restaurant. Or 

join a forager on the hunt for food growing in the wild in 

Perthshire and visit a smokehouse to find out more about 

the artisan craft. 

Our journeys include details of the best time to visit 

as well, depending on whether you want to take in the 

Henley Regatta in June or to see the Scottish snowdrop 

festival from late January to early March. Wherever you 

go, take your time and dare to dawdle – you see so much 

more when you live life in the slow lane. ◆ 

Find out more: pobhotels.com/breaks 


A DAY AT 

The Newt 

The British countryside is a riot of colour in autumn, and at 

The Newt in Somerset it’s harvest time. British Travel Journal discovers 

a feast for the senses at this remarkable country estate… 

Text by Sophie Farrah 

African hotelier Karen Roos and her husband Koos Bekker, 

the couple behind Babylonstoren; an 18th-century estate 

and boutique hotel located in the wine region outside 

Cape Town. It took them six years to transform The Newt 

into the spectacular destination that it is today, and in 

2019 they finally opened its doors for all to enjoy. An ode 

to all things Somerset, this magnificent, no-expensespared 

playground celebrates everything that the county 

has to offer, and more... 

Nestled in the folds of South Somerset lies a 

nature lover’s paradise. A place where apples 

hang abundantly from trees, walking trails 

weave through ancient woodlands, and ducks 

wander freely from pond to lake. Beautiful honey-stone 

buildings house a luxury hotel, spa, Cyder Press, Garden 

Café, Farm Shop and more, and there’s also an enchanted 

grotto and a full-size Roman villa to explore. Welcome to 

The Newt. 

Encompassing a staggering 800 acres, this historic 

West Country estate was bought in 2013 by the South 


Inspired by local heritage and sustainable agriculture, 

The Newt in Somerset is a working estate, and at the core 

of it all lies acres of truly magnificent gardens that have 

been lovingly tended to for over 250 years. I found even 

the short walk from the car park enchanting; a winding 

wooden walkway led me through peaceful woodland and, 

like some sort of teleportation device, seemed to magically 

transport me from the modern world and gently deposit 

me into a glorious rural utopia. 

To get my bearings, I opted for one of the regular 

garden tours first, which provide an insight into the 

fascinating history of the estate and the vision that drives 

it today. There are significant gardens to discover, most 

recently designed by renowned Italo-French architect 


Patrice Taravella and now cared for by an expert 

gardening team. We started in the productive vegetable 

garden – an organic, no-dig operation that cultivates 

over 350 vegetables and salad varieties, and supplies the 

on-site cafe and hotel. Next, we arrived at a waterlily filled 

pond, where we encountered the resident population of 

protected newts that inspired the estate’s new name. We 

wandered on through the historic ‘colour rooms’ – each 

one planted in a different hue designed to stimulate the 

emotions – before arriving in an idyllic country garden, 

complete with a picture-perfect thatched cottage. 

Passing lawns, fountains, and stunning views galore, 

we then arrived at The Newt’s remarkable Parabola – a 

3,000 sqm walled garden filled with a baroque-style 

maze of 460 perfectly trained apple trees, each divided by 

county and intermingled with seashell-strewn pathways, 

trickling streams and historically accurate planting. 

It may all sound terribly impressive, and it is, but there 

is no unnecessary formality here. Instead, playfulness 

abounds; signs encourage guests to pick and eat an 

apple should they wish, giant toad sculptures spurt water 

spontaneously, and free-range chickens happily snooze 

in the grass, while South African designer Porky Hefer 

has created human-sized nests for visitors themselves to 

curl up in. The garden design is outstanding; input and 

influence has come from a variety of different people 

over the years and can be seen in varying forms, ranging 

from Margaret Hobhouse who elevated the gardens to a 

Victorian ideal over 100 years ago, to the stunning floor 

mosaics created more recently by one of the landscapers 

who worked on The Newt in its infancy. It is this sum of 

parts and the contribution of many that gives the gardens 

their palpable sense of warmth and personality today. 

Elsewhere, there is a Japanese Garden to discover, 

a Victorian Fragrance Garden, and a greenhouse filled 

with unimaginable cacti. You need a full day, at least, to 

see it all, and I was keen not to miss the other jewel in The 

Newt’s crown: cyder. 

‘ 

Passing lawns, fountains, and stunning views galore, we then arrived at The Newt’s 

remarkable Parabola – a 3,000 sqm walled garden filled with a baroque-style maze... 

’ 


‘ 

Over 3,000 cyder apple trees grace the landscape here, and old orchards 

that thrived on the estate over 300 years ago are now being revived. 

’ 

Somerset, historically, is cider-making country, 

although The Newt has chosen to opt for the old English 

spelling of the word (cyder). Over 3,000 cyder apple 

trees grace the landscape here, and old orchards that 

thrived on the estate over 300 years ago are now being 

revived. Today, it grows 70 varieties of bittersweet and 

Somerset apples and features a cathedral-like cellar and 

state-of-the-art cyder press – a striking stone-and-glassclad 

building filled with vast stainless-steel tanks, where 

modern cyder-making techniques are celebrated, and 

where guided tours and tastings take place. 

The estate’s more traditional West Country-style 

cyders are fresh, aromatic, and sing with the sweet flavour 

of a bucolic Somerset orchard on a summer’s day, but 

in true Newt style there is innovation too. The Winston, 

for example, is the first sparkling cyder in the world to be 

bottled as an imperial pint in honour of a certain British 

Prime Minister, and The Newt’s award-winning Fine 

Cyder, which comes in tall, slim, elegant bottles, is crafted 

using winemaking techniques and select dessert apples 

only. It takes 10 months to produce, and the result is a 

sophisticated, almost wine-like still cyder, with fruitiness 

on the nose and a crisp taste of apple and lemon. 

Soon, it was lunchtime. Freshly made picnics and light 

bites are available from the Cyder Bar or there is the Garden 

Cafe – an impressive, glass-walled space with a roaring fire 

at its centre, which serves a vegetable-led menu overlooking 

the Parabola, kitchen gardens and orchards beyond. 

Wherever you choose to eat, every plate of food served on 

the estate features something grown or foraged here. 

I headed for The Botanical Rooms, the sophisticated 

restaurant located within the hotel’s historic walls, and 

enjoyed delicious grilled young leeks with smoked cod’s 

roe and cured egg yolk, day boat fish with nasturtium 

butter, garden peas and girolle mushroom, and a glass 

of wine from The Newt’s South African sister property, 

Babylonstoren. The interiors are sublime; everywhere you 

look, the past has been cleverly reimagined by combining 

historical features with contemporary architecture and 

modern design pieces, while a vibrant colour palette 

echoes the surrounding gardens and sweeping views of 

the countryside. 

After lunch, I ventured across ‘The Viper’ – a suspended 

treetop walkway that snakes its way high above a deerdotted 

woodland – in search of The Story of Gardening; 

an extraordinary, immersive exploration of garden design 


‘ 

Also tucked away in the woods is the architecturally striking Beezantium, 

which explores the connections between bees, the land and humans. 

’ 

throughout time. Also tucked away in the woods is the 

architecturally striking Beezantium, which explores the 

connections between bees, the land and humans; here, 

amid giant honeycomb-shaped walls, I marvelled at The 

Newt’s wild and native bee colonies in observation hives 

and admired them hard at work. A short walk later and I 

found myself at the recently unveiled Grotto – a staggering 

cave embellished with millions of shells, and crystals, and at 

its heart, a smoke-breathing dragon emerging from a pool 

of water. It is these elements of pure imagination and sense 

of fun that make The Newt completely unique and utterly 

captivating. 

Its latest star attraction opened in summer 2022; Villa 

Ventorum is a pioneering archaeological experience 


BLACKTON GRANGE 

AN EXCLUSIVE, SECLUDED, LUXURY HOLIDAY HOME IN THE NORTH 

PENNINES AREA OF OUTSTANDING NATURAL BEAUTY 

The perfect property for hen party weekends, birthday 

get togethers and family breaks away... 

Durham’s newest luxury self 

catering accommodation. 

Blackton Grange is a luxury 

retreat with all of the mod cons 

such as private hot tub, cocktail 

lounge, games room, cinema 

room and so much more. 

With space for up to 17 guests, 

Blackton Grange is an elegant 

but cosy celebration house 

where you can escape and 

create your own special 

memories while celebrating 

life’s biggest milestones. 

WWW.BLACKTONGRANGE.CO.UK

‘ 

Located in a Grade-II*-listed Georgian manor house known as Hadspen... 

[is] one of the most exceptional country-house hotels in the country. 

’ 

IMAGES © CRAIG AUCKLAND / FOTOHAUS / JAKE EASTHAM 

encompassing the staggering reconstruction of a 

Romano-British villa found on the estate, which dates 

back to 351 AD. Seven years in the making, this incredible 

landmark is the most ambitious reconstruction of a Roman 

villa ever undertaken in Britain. An audio tour guides 

guests as they move through the space while virtual-reality 

technology provides further fascinating insight, and there’s 

also an opportunity to try some rather delicious Romanstyle 

street food. You definitely need more than a day to 

discover all there is to see here... 

There are various ways to experience The Newt; 

day-visitors are warmly welcomed (you’ll need annual 

membership or come as the guest of a member), and 

throughout the summer months The Newt’s Great Garden 

Escape whisks passengers to and from London by train for 

an unforgettable day trip filled with Newt-y delights. 

Alternatively, those staying in its beautiful hotel are 

granted unrestricted access to all that the estate has 

to offer. Located in a Grade-II*-listed Georgian manor 

house known as Hadspen, it was the seat of the Hobhouse 

family for more than two centuries. Today it has been 

transformed into one of the most exceptional countryhouse 

hotels, comprising 23 beautifully and individually 

designed bedrooms, a restaurant, bar, croquet lawnn, and 

a world-class spa, among other attractions. 

In June 2021, the Farmyard was unveiled; an entirely 

new part of The Newt’s hotel offering set within a hidden 

valley half a mile from Hadspen. Home to a swimming 

pool, 17 contemporary and elegant bedrooms, a bar, and 

an all-day kitchen. This modern, more rustic addition is 

set within the estate’s former dairy and can be reached via 

picturesque orchards either on foot, by bicycle or in one 

of the estate’s many golf buggies, which guests are free to 

whizz around in throughout their stay. 

Soon my visit was coming to a close, but thankfully there 

was just enough time for an ice cream. The Newt’s gelateria, 

which uses fresh buffalo milk from the estate, is not to be 

missed, whatever the weather. Then there is the farm shop, 

with its impressive butchery, wonderfully fragrant cheese 

room and array of delectable artisan treats. I picked up 

various things here, from cider and chutney to fresh bread 

and granola, desperate to take a slice of this pastoral 

paradise home with me. And then, reluctantly, back down 

the wooden walkway I floated. Back out into the real world, 

yes, but filled with the wonder of nature, and revelling in the 

spectacular feast for the senses that is The Newt. 

Annual membership to The Newt is priced at £75 per 

adult, with children (0–16 years) free of charge when 

accompanied by an adult member. Members can also 

bring up to six visitors per day, priced at £20 per person. 

Membership is included for hotel guests; room rates start 

from £520 per night based on two sharing on a B&B basis. 

thenewtinsomerset.com 


A POSTCARD FROM THE 

Gower Peninsula

The UK’s first Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty is a stunning landscape 

– a place to let your mind be free and adopt the pace of nature... 

Text and Images by Jessica Way 

Swansea Bay and the Gower Peninsula in South 

West Wales are absolute havens for those seeking 

a peaceful escape to connect with nature. From 

the rugged moors and striking limestone cliffs, 

to the secluded coves and expansive stretches of sandy 

beaches, you’re surrounded by an incredible wealth of 

wildlife. Expect to encounter an array of birds, butterflies, 

wildflowers and waterfalls as you explore this wonderful 

region steeped in rich history and culture. There are 

numerous charming towns, quaint villages, fascinating 

castles and excellent restaurants using local and organic 

produce nearby that are definitely worth exploring. 

We stayed at The King’s Head, Llangennith, a 

charming traditional inn with stone walls and wooden 

beams. It’s nestled within the slopes of three Welsh valleys, 

Llanmadoc Hill, Rhossili Down, and Hardingsdown. The 

inn is set in the heart of the village, right across from a 

lovely medieval church and village green. It’s a rustic and 

enchanting place to stay, and its location makes it easy to 

take a stroll to the coast on the western tip of the Gower. 

Across the road, there’s a surf shop, and just a short 

drive away, there’s a post office and community shop. 

Whether you’re interested in surfing or just soaking up the 

serene surroundings, this is an ideal location to unwind 

and appreciate the beauty of the Gower. 

DAY ONE 

Our morning at The King’s Head Inn began with a 

delicious breakfast with our four-legged furry friend, 

Poppy. While Pops indulged in some scrumptious woofwoof 

sausages, we savoured some freshly brewed Gower 

coffee and a delightful plate of smashed avocado with 

poached eggs. 

After fuelling up, we embarked on a picturesque hike 

over the Rhossili Downs. Along the way, we were greeted 

by wild ponies grazing on the hilltops as we followed the 


coast path towards Rhossili. The panoramic views across 

the bay and out to the Bristol Channel are absolutely 

breathtaking, and on a clear day you can see as far as the 

Pembrokeshire Coast and Caldey Island. 

Halfway along the Down, we stumbled upon the 

remains of a WWII radar station and decided to take a 

tea break and indulge in some delicious Welsh cakes while 

soaking in the beautiful scenery. 

Continuing on the path a little further, you pass the 

remains of Stone Age burial chambers, Sweynes Howes, 

constructed around 6,000 years ago, closely followed by 

the beacon marking the highest point in the Gower, and 

the site of a Bronze Age cairn. 

Rhossili Bay is vast, stretching three miles from Burry 

Holms at the northern end to Worm's Head – one of 

the Gower's most famous landmarks – and the village 

of Rhossili at the southern end. Rhossili is a very pretty, 

tranquil and quaint village with laid-back locals – a place 

to truly escape from the hustle and bustle. There’s an art 

gallery, several coffee shops and independent boutiques, 

a hotel and bar, and a church that dates back to the 

12th century – take a peek inside the chancel and admire 

the original 14th-century window. When the tide is out, 

visitors are able to catch a glimpse of the 1887 Helvetia 

shipwreck – a timber ruin belonging to a bygone era and 

once a proud ship that has become a famous landmark for 

Rhossili Bay. 

We stopped for an alfresco lunch at The Bay Bistro, 

with views of Rhossili Bay as our backdrop. Inside the 

pretty white-and-mint-green painted cottage are rustic 

shabby chic interiors – wood panelling, comfy leather 

armchairs and a cosy log burner. 

We sat outside on the large terrace where we indulged 

in a mouthwatering Korean Loaded Fries with roasted 

chicken thighs and vegetables in a gochujang sauce. 

We chatted with a fun group of rock climbers from York 

who were in Gower for the annual BMC Climbing Festival. 

Poppy was well catered for too, with locally made doggy 

ice cream and natural dog biscuits from Gwen’s Pantry. 

Next door to the restaurant, there’s The Bay Shop 

selling a range of locally made ice cream (for humans) 

and mementos from local craftspeople, including handpainted 

wooden earrings, locally distilled gin, artisan 

candles, Gower honey, local maps, books and postcards. 


‘ 

Rhossili is a very pretty, tranquil and quaint village with laid-back locals – a 

place to truly escape from the hustle and bustle. 

’ 

Opposite the restaurant is the National Trust car park 

and access to the gravel footpath along the cliff top of 

Worm’s Head – derived from an Old English word ‘wurm,’ 

meaning ‘dragon’ or ‘sea serpent’, as the peninsula was said 

to resemble a sleeping ‘wurm’. This dramatic tidal island 

comprises three parts: the Inner Head, the Middle Head 

(which features a collapsed sea cave and is known as the 

Devil’s Bridge), and the Outer Head, which you can only 

reach safely during low tide. To scramble your way to the 

island along the rocky path and back, there’s a five-hour 

window of opportunity (2.5 hours each side of low tide), so 

it is important to plan ahead and check the crossing-times 

board, which is updated daily. Once across, you will find a 

peaceful haven, where seals are often basking on the rocks, 

and there’s a fantastic view looking back towards Rhossili. 

We walked to the old Coastguard Lookout at the end 

of the headland before heading back along the beach 

back towards Llangennith. Poppy was in her element, 


with the beach being dog-friendly all year round. When 

we got back to the Inn, we sat in the courtyard with a drink 

admiring the views and listening to the birds singing. It 

was so peaceful, and we even had a herd of cows saunter 

past us – a great reminder that taking life in the slow lane 

can be so rewarding. 

We spent the afternoon exploring Cwm Ivy and Whiteford 

on the north coast. From the Cwm Ivy car park it’s a short 

stroll down the lane through the Cwm Ivy Wood National 

Trust gate. I was glad that I had brought some cash with 

me because there was an honesty box for donations. 

The pathway led us through a dreamy picture-book 

setting that felt lost in time. The Monterey pine trees were 

so beautiful, and if you looked to your left, you could see 

the Cwm Ivy salt marsh and ancient sea wall. There were 

two bird hides and plenty of opportunities for wildlife 

spotting – otters, kingfishers, and wading birds can 

often be seen here and if you are lucky you might catch a 

glimpse of a marsh harrier, one of the UK’s rarest birds. 

One of our highlights was stopping at Cwm Ivy Arts 

and Crafts for a slice of their delicious homemade cake. 

The gardens are an oasis of tranquillity and birdsong, 

and the seating along the decking has been designed 

for visitors to relax peacefully and make the most of the 

panorama before them. 

After a long day of exploring, we were grateful to 

return to The King’s Head, our home from home, for a 

hearty meal and a chance to reset and unwind. 

The atmosphere at the Inn is very friendly. As an 

overnight guest (there are three purpose-built blocks: 

the townhouse next door, and two additional stone barn 

conversions behind the pub) you are made very welcome 

by the locals, and the menu is excellent too. There's a 

daily specials board featuring locally sourced produce, 

including Welsh lamb, pork, and venison. We enjoyed a 

delicious home-cooked curry and steak-and-ale pie, and 

settled in under the cozy beams by the burning stove. 

The bar has an impressive collection of malt whiskys, 

with over 100 varieties available. The landlady collected 

most of them herself from Scotland, where she used to 

travel for her previous role as president of the Shetland 

pony society. There’s also a large selection of Welsh Real 

Ales and Penderyn Whisky, distilled in Wales. It was the 

perfect end to an incredible day. 


‘ 

After a long day of exploring, we were grateful to return to The King’s Head, 

our home from home, for a hearty meal and a chance to reset and unwind. 

’ 

DAY TWO 

Following another delicious breakfast and feeling a little 

more adventurous, we decided to explore further afield 

and drove to the Victorian fishing village of Mumbles 

on the southeast corner of the Gower Peninsula – the 

birthplace of Dylan Thomas and a village steeped in 

history and traditional seaside charm. 

We visited the Victorian Pier and Bracelet Bay, iconic 

landmarks on the Gower coastline with views across to 

the lighthouse built in 1794. Don’t miss an ice-cream from 

the fun retro Welsh landmark, originally built in the early 

1930s to promote a cider brand: Swansea’s famous Big 

Apple, known as the giant concrete Pac-Man, is such a 

rare and unusual example of a seaside refreshment kiosk 

that a few years ago it was graded as a listed building for 

its special architectural interest. 

It is easy to beach crawl your way along the Gower 

coast path, with lots to see and do at neighbouring 


Bracelet Bay, Langland Bay and Caswell Bay where there’s 

a surf school. For a bout of Welsh culture, the picturesque 

village doesn’t disappoint either, from the world's first 

gallery devoted to hand-carved Welsh Lovespoons and 

local artists, to laverbread and cockles brunches at The 

Darkhorse. You could easily spend a few hours here 

exploring the independent boutiques and quirky galleries. 

From Oystermouth, you can pick up a Santander Cycle 

and take a scenic ride along Swansea’s Promenade, with 

beautiful views across the five-mile sweep of Swansea Bay. 

We cycled a leisurely mile to Knab Rock (where there is 

another Santander pick-up/drop-off point) with Poppy in 

tow for a home-cooked Italian lunch by the sea at Verdi’s 

Restaurant and Ice Cream Parlour. 

There's plenty of pasta and pizza to choose from and 

the ice-cream sundaes are legendary – with up to 30 

different ice cream flavours on offer. 

In the afternoon we visited Oystermouth Castle, which 

is just a short walk from Mumbles’ shops and restaurants. 

Sitting majestically on the hill, the castle features 

spectacular views overlooking Swansea Bay. Don’t miss 

Alina’s Chapel with its remarkable Gothic windows – and 

history buffs will marvel at the 14th-century ancient graffiti 

art and medieval maze of deep vaults and secret staircases. 

Mumble’s newest hotel, The Oyster House is a great 

option for lunch, cocktails or an evening meal. We sat under 

a clear blue sky, and with heaters, sea views, and ambient 

music, it felt like the perfect holiday spot to unwind following 

an active day. The menu was impressive, featuring plenty 

of seasonal meat from The Gower Butcher and ‘fresh off 

the boat’ fish from Coakley’s Fishmongers, including some 

delicious oysters that I simply couldn’t resist. 

DAY THREE 

During our time in Rhossili the day before, we had the 

pleasure of meeting Key, a friendly local who gave us 

some valuable recommendations. After taking a dip in the 

sea, she told us stories of the limestone cliffs, caves and 

mammoths and pointed out where we could spot “the face 

in the mountain” and even mentioned a tree inside one 

of the caves. It was fascinating to hear about the area’s 

history and local legends. Key insisted that Mewslade 

Bay, a beautiful spot just north of Worm’s Head, was her 

all-time favourite beach, so we went to check it out. 


‘ 

The menu was impressive, featuring... ‘fresh off the boat’ fish from Coakley’s 

Fishmongers, including some delicious oysters that I simply couldn’t resist. 

’ 

The best place to park is in Lower Pitton where there 

is a car park opposite a pretty farmhouse. From there it’s 

about a 10-minute walk through unspoilt countryside to 

Mewslade Bay. The coastal path meanders down a narrow 

valley to the sea, through wooded and open countryside. 

It is such a beautiful spot, so picturesque, rich in flora 

and fauna, and secluded, with just the occasional hiker 

passing by. The sea was calm and crystal-clear and it is 

fun exploring the caves and hidden coves. It’s definitely 

one of the prettiest sections of the Gower Peninsula coast 

path, and I’d highly recommend taking a hike here, either 

towards Port Eynon or towards Fall Bay and Rhossili. 

About halfway from Mewslade Bay to Mumbles on 

the south coast, we stopped at the golf clubhouse in the 

charming village of Pennard for coffee and cake. 

The real adventure began as we explored the 

landscape along the coastal trails and pathways. We 

walked along the grassy clifftops behind the golf course 


‘ 

We walked along the grassy clifftops behind the golf course to the awe-inspiring 

Three Cliffs Bay and stumbled upon the remains of Pennard Castle, a wellpreserved 

Grade-II-listed medieval ruin, which beautifully frames the coastal view. 

’ 

to the awe-inspiring Three Cliffs Bay and stumbled upon the 

remains of Pennard Castle, a well-preserved Grade-II-listed 

medieval ruin, which beautifully frames the coastal view. The 

northern side of the castle offers stunning views of Pennard 

Burrows, a wooded valley, and a sheer drop below. 

Our journey from one magical place to another took 

us next to Penllergare Valley Woods. This Victorian estate 

was once the home of John Dillwyn Llewelyn, who was a 

pioneering photographer, horticulturist, and astronomer. 

There are numerous reasons to visit this forgotten paradise 

filled with waterfalls, lakes, and rivers. In addition to the 

stunning panoramic views, there are 250 acres of ancient 

woodlands and exotic trees, not to mention a coffee shop 

that serves freshly baked scones and homemade cakes. 

The estate is also home to a giant monkey puzzle tree and 

has a brand new visitor centre. 

Our next stop was the Secret Bar and Kitchen in 

Swansea; located directly on the beach, this is a perfect 

spot for a delicious meal and some relaxing downtime. I 

devoured a delicious Chicken Parmigiana and my furry 

friend Poppy enjoyed her first-ever Puppachino. 

On our final evening in Swansea, we decided to head up 

to Cefn Bryn to take in the panoramic views of the Gower’s 

dark skies. It was truly a magical experience watching the 

constellations track along the inky black sky in perfect 

peace. I had an unforgettable experience exploring the 

Gower. Whether you seek a peaceful beach holiday or an 

exhilarating outdoor adventure break, the Gower has it 

all and I highly recommend visiting this remarkable part 

of Wales to fully experience everything it has to offer. It’s a 

journey that will leave a lasting mark on your memory. 

For further information on visiting Swansea Bay, 

Mumbles and Gower please visit: visitswanseabay.com 


3032-Half-Page-Britain-Ad-202x129mm-AW.indd 1 07/07/2023 14:45 

Against the backdrop 

of a renowned collection 

experience critically acclaimed 

exhibitions of historical and 

contemporary art, lectures, 

concerts, workshops and 

events or indulge in our 

Garden Café. 

DON’T MISS 

Painted Love: Renaissance Marriage Portraits 

Until 1 October 2023 

Lucie Rie: The Adventure of Pottery 

14 July 2023 to 7 January 2024 

Sarah Biffin 

18 September 2023 to 14 January 2024 

Gwen John: Art and Life in London and Paris 

21 October George 2023 to Shaw 14 April 2024 

A Corner of a Foreign Field 

2019 HIGHLIGHTS 

The Holburne Édouard (aka Vuillard Lady Danbury’s house in 

Netflix’s The popular Poetry Bridgerton) of the Everyday is one of the UK’s 

best loved independent museums. As well as 

housing Lauren a wonderful Child and eclectic collection, it 

presents The world-class Art of Illustration exhibitions of historical and 

contemporary Rembrandt art a dynamic programme of 

creative A activities Life in Print and events for all ages. 

Located at the end of the majestic Great 

Pulteney Henri Street, Matisse and with a fantastic café and 

gardens, Master it’s a must of Line see for any visit to Bath. 

Great Great Pulteney Pulteney Street, Street, Bath Bath BA2 BA2 4DB 4DB 

www.holburne.org

A Cornish Gem in 

SUSTAINABLE 

TRAVEL 

With the launch of Cornish Gems Eco-Conscious Collection, we 

take a look at their sustainability journey while shining a spotlight 

on their greenest properties, endeavouring to reduce their carbon 

footprint and minimise waste and the impact on our planet 

Text by Samantha Rutherford 

Looking through the keyhole of Cornish Gems, 

there’s so much more to celebrate than their 

immaculate portfolio of 200 exclusive Cornish 

holiday properties. Their ethical practices are a 

force for good and their principles an inspiration within the 

sustainability movement of the travel sector. 

Flying the Flag of St Piran 

Cornwall is a beautiful county and coastline, and it's 

somewhere Cornish Gems are incredibly proud to call 

home. Behind the brand, the Cornwall-based team 

work tirelessly to support the unique and vibrant local 

community and the landscape. They raise money for 

charities and local trusts, and offer guests the opportunity 

to purchase Cornwall Heritage Trust memberships. 

They champion local farmers by working with The 

Cornish Food Box to deliver grass-fed, free-range meat 

and poultry, sustainably caught fish and seafood, and 

veg grown just down the road from local producers. The 

hampers for guests on arrival not only support this great 

local business, but by enabling guests to choose the items 

they wish to receive, Cornish Gems are helping to reduce 

the waste of unwanted products. 

You won’t find plastic toiletry bottles in Cornish Gems 

holiday homes, and they are hot on their recycling efforts 

too – only previously received packaging is used for 

wrapping gifts bought in their Gems Shop. One of our 

favourite products? The Circular & Co cup, created from 

used coffee cups and fully recyclable. 

Cornish Gems have planted more than 1,200 trees 

in 26 countries around the world, which is equal to 

neutralising approximately 6,300 car journeys from 

across the UK into Cornwall. Plus, they are committed to 

being mindful of the effect on social housing by trying to 

help protect affordability for local first-time buyers by not 

adding any residential properties with a market value of 

less than £350,000 to their portfolio. 

It is no mean feat that Cornish Gems have raised 

£17,500 for worthy causes, including the Cornwall Wildlife 

Trust, Cornwall Air Ambulance, the RNLI and (one of my 

personal favourites) Surfers Against Sewage. 

The ‘Charity of the Year,’ for 2023 is ‘Love Where You 

Are,’ who offer financial support to climate and naturefriendly 

projects across Cornwall. 


It’s no wonder then that Cornish Gems has been awarded 

the coveted Gold Green Tourism Award, shortlisted for 

a Cornwall Sustainability Award in the Carbon Neutral 

category, and commended for their commitment to 

protecting the Cornish area and landscape. 

Reducing the Impact of Holidays and Protecting the 

Landscape of Cornwall 

Being responsible, ethical, and aware of our effect on 

our planet is at the forefront of everyone’s mind. And as 

holidaymakers, meaningful environmental responsibility is 

vital – but how about we go one step further? What if we 

base our entire travel plans around like-minded businesses 

by staying only in the most environment-friendly properties? 

Supporting those committed to operating sustainably and 

responsibly and leaving only our footprints. 

With Cornish Gem's Eco-Conscious collection you have 

the choice to do just that. From renewable heating sources 

and electric car chargers to biodiverse landscaping featuring 

native plants and ecofriendly constructions, these properties 

endeavour to reduce the impact of your holiday and protect 

the beautiful landscape of Cornwall. Here's our pick of some 

of our favourite Cornish Gems climate-mindful properties: 

Boslagen 

Close to Padstow, Trevone and Wadebridge, this exquisite 

nature-inspired retreat is the perfect bolthole for two. Stay 

within the beautiful oasis of Boslagen as it seamlessly blends 

back into nature and appears as if romantically floating 

on its own natural pond. A dreamy setting inspired by the 

owner, whose focus on low-carbon and sustainable options 

complemented her passion for providing an exquisite holiday 

experience like no other. This architecturally inspiring 

pavilion is dressed in the very best fabrics and furnishings, 

while the ensuite bedroom and open-plan living, kitchen 

and dining spaces embrace the orchard, meadow and 

woodland views from the full-height glass walls. A wraparound 

veranda floats over the water, where guests can while 

away the evenings and soak in the outdoor sit-up Japanese 

bath. The playground of North Cornwall is a short trip 

away, waiting to host adventurous souls or those looking to 

embrace a slower pace of Cornish life. 


Polsue Farm House 

Close to St Mawes, this is a stunning country abode 

on the Roseland Peninsula. Follow the winding country 

lanes and arrive at Polsue Farm House, where nature 

takes centre stage and magical holidays are created. 

Experience off-the-beaten-track tranquillity at this truly 

breathtaking refurbished abode and enjoy the luxury of 

the location as you flip from rural to coastal in no time. 

Offering all you could need, choose from four beautiful 

bedrooms, four country-inspired bathrooms, and several 

spaces in which to relax and host families and friends. The 

garden is an oasis of botanical plants with a patchwork 

of terraces, paddocks, lawns and fields in which to 

spread out and explore. Once settled, head out into the 

Roseland Peninsula, to discover more of West Cornwall: 

the quintessential coves of Portloe and Portholland, the 

fishing heritage of Mevagissey, and the smart town of St 

Mawes, all just a short drive away. 

Meadow’s Nest 

Close to St Agnes, Perranporth, Callestick and the North 

Coast, this is an uplifting countryside retreat. Fashioned 

from the owners’ passion to create a characterful, backto-nature 

retreat, Meadow’s Nest is an idyllic haven for 

all those seeking escape from the everyday. Previously 

a bustling workshop, the space has been sensitively 

refurbished using repurposed materials, keeping the use 

of high-carbon materials to a minimum. From sinking 

into the copper bath and soaking up the green views to 

meeting the cows that frequent the neighbouring fields, 

Meadow’s Nest offers an experience that is totally unique 

and wholesome. 

Bosavallam 

Close to Padstow, Trevone and Wadebridge, this 

exemplary woodland abode made just for two is magical. 

It immerses its guests into nature, inspiring rest and 

wellbeing and ensuring a truly special stay. Settling 

into flora and fauna of the most beautiful woodland 

and orchard backdrop, the wooden pavilion has been 

creatively designed to blend into the surroundings and 

maximise the space and the light and ensure sublime 

comfort. Bosavallam (Cornish for ‘house in the orchard’) 

offers a spacious bedroom with panoramic woodland 

views, an open-plan kitchen and wraparound veranda 

with alfresco bar, veranda seating and, most impressively, 

the bespoke outdoor roll-top nickel-boat bath housed 

under a Cornish slate-lined alcove. From your holiday 

door, explore the beauty of North Cornwall, including 

Wadebridge, Rock and Padstow nearby or the golden 

sand beaches of Daymer Bay, Polzeath and Constantine. 

For more information on Cornish Gems' collection of 

properties sleeping from two to 20 guests visit cornishgems.com 


AN OPINIONATED GUIDE 

HOXTON MINI PRESS 

BRITISH TRAVEL JOURNAL CROSSWORD 16 

 

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FAMILY 

ESCAPES 

Alice Tate 

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We're reading... 

British Family Escapes 

Alice Tate, £22.95 

Published 19 October 2023 

AN ETTINGER CAPRA PASSPORT COVER & LUGGAGE TAG 

WORTH £165 (AVAILABLE FROM ETTINGER.CO.UK) WILL BE SENT 

TO THE FIRST CORRECT ENTRANT RECEIVED THIS ISSUE 

ACROSS 

1 --- Manor, Oxfordshire hotel 

and club (7) 

5 Sounds like the apple of one's 

pie, from Rutland? (6) 

10 Start a journey at Waterloo, 

say (7) 

11 Lord Ted beat up a little one (7) 

12 Obligation (4) 

13 Money-making knack (5,5) 

14 28 Across beach feature 

named after Tinker Bunny (4) 

15 1941 Bogart/Lupino film (4,6) 

19 An old-timer, if confused, will 

be quiescent (3,7) 

20 Iconic '60s vehicle found in 

green form at 14 Down (4) 

21 Takes back (10) 

24 Huge amount (4) 

27 Submerge (7) 

28 Bay west of Padstow (7) 

29 Noted nautical native of 

Burnham Thorpe, Norfolk (6) 

30 Pure pleasure (7)) 

Explore the diverse landscape and rich culture of Britain while spending 

quality time with the family – and without compromising on the quality 

of your experience. Alice Tate has carefully selected 40 fantastic family 

getaways that offer endless creative and energetic opportunities, both on-site 

and nearby, alongside stylish decor, thoughtful hospitality and welcome 

luxuries. There’s something for all tastes, from Welsh mountain bases for 

exploring and biking to Cornish coastal retreats for sunning and sailing, and 

even colourful stable conversions on working farms – where the kids can 

pick their own dinner and maybe even cuddle a piglet or two. 

DOWN 

2 Stir up the Maoist to do nothing 

(3,2,4) 

3 Quaint plaint (4) 

4 Roman name for the capital (9) 

6 Diane lit bomb, very carefully (2,6) 

7 Popular rice dish (5) 

8 Rosedale into --- Walk, Yorkshire 

(5,4) 

9 Worm's got one in the Gower (4) 

11 Tregothnan produced the first 

English crop of this (3) 

14 Lizard Peninsula hotel where you 

can drive an electric 20 Across (9) 

16 Old trading league (9) 

17 Carrots and beets, etc. (4,5) 

18 "War Horse" author (8) 

22 Deserted Cornish trail, perhaps? (5) 

23 Expend (3) 

25 Squirrel's nest (4) 

26 Somerset hotel, garden and estate 

sounds protected (4) 

British Family Escapes Explore the diverse landscape and rich culture of 

Britain while spending quality time with the family – 40 fantastic family 

getaways, from Welsh mountain bases An to Cornish Opinionated coastal Guide retreats to and 

Brighton 

working farms. Priced £22.95, hoxtonminipress.com. £10.95 Great Scottish Walks Answers will be printed in the Spring 2024 Issue 

The only dedicated guide to Scotland’s Published long-distance 26 October trails, 2023 

An opinionated guide to 

packed with 

inspiration for walkers who are looking for a big adventure. The book 

ANSWERS TO CROSSWORD 15 | SUMMER 2023 

There’s much more to Brighton than beaches and beer. We’ve gathered the 

features 26 routes and an overview of the Scottish National Trail – an epic ACROSS: 9 Pendine 10 Abigail 11 Leeds 12 Frowned on 13 Net losses 15 

very best that this seaside town has to offer, from where to get an exceptional 

route linking many of the best trails. Priced £20, adventurebooks.com. London Wales 17 Grenade launcher 20 Tarns 22 Theorists 24 Yellow Sea 26 E flat 

Shopfronts BRIGHTON 

cup of coffee to the top destinations for enjoying Brighton’s culture and 

An illustrated guide to discover London and its wonderful 

27 Ragweed 28 Retinas DOWN: 1 Up all night 2 Insect 3 Diaspora 4 Deaf 5 

nightlife. Grab a single-origin brew at Bond St Coffee before browsing the 

independent shops, with over 200 beautiful illustrations of the city’s most 

Famous name 6 Winnow 7 Randolph 8 Glen 14 Swept aside 16 Stress test 18 

thriving independent shops in the Lanes (don’t miss Snooper’s Paradise); 

colourful shops and traders. Priced £19.99, waterstones.com 

Earplugs 19 Narberth 21 Skomer 23 Silent 24 York 25 Acre 

take a bracing bike ride along the undercliff path; and be spoiled for choice 

with a wealth of buzzing bistros and award-winning pubs.

Eco-Conscious Homes Hidden Gems Coastal Retreats Dog Friendly Celebrations 

Cornwall is our home and we’d love to share it with you, responsibly 

and generously. Stay with us and experience the rare quality of over 

190 exquisite Gems, sleeping 2 to 20 guests. 

cornishgems.com 01872 241241

® 

E ORIGINAL MAKER 

Tickets now 

on sale 

Made for Magical Christmas Moments 

This Christmas, discover the wonder of Santa’s workshop at The Royal Mint 

Experience as he teams up with The Royal Mint. Filled with wonder and delight, 

it is sure to be a truly magical and festive experience for all the family to enjoy. 

BOOK TICKETS NOW 

For more details visit: www.royalmint.com/the-royal-mint-experience/christmas. 

The Royal Mint Christmas Experience runs every day 

from 25th November 2023 to 24th December 2023 

CELEBRATE | COLLECT | INVEST | 

SECURE | DISCOVER

British Travel Journal | Autumn/Winter 2023

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