British Travel Journal | Autumn/Winter 2023

scrubland, and meadows, restoring a diverse range of
habitats to the land. It received its final mow two years
ago and already it is teeming with wildlife; over 84 plant
species and 525 animal species have been recorded,
including bats, bees, birds and butterflies. It hums with
the energy of all the nature that is moving back in, and it
is a beautiful and incredibly peaceful place to be, so much
so that when our small group happened upon a roe deer
snoozing under a vast oak tree, it barely noticed us.
As Cox led us through ancient woodland and across
grassy meadows, eagerly pointing out rare plants, birds
and butterflies as we went, he described how the imminent
introduction of Tamworth pigs, Sussex cattle and Exmoor
ponies will help to manage the land, as nature intended.
As we passed sand-filled golf bunkers now sprouting with
wildflowers and grasses, he explained how he hopes that,
in time, endangered species native to this part of England,
such as dormice, nightjars, and nightingales, will return
because of the restoration of their scrubland habitat here.
with a deeply rich Marmite butter, and a perfectly cooked
piece of Cornish plaice, with mussels, Jersey royals, violet
artichoke and buttery braised leeks, all liberally doused in
a silky green olive sauce at the table. My favourite course
was dessert. Simply described as ‘English Strawberry’,
it was bursting with flavours of cherry blossoms (picked
on-site), Sichuan pepper and creamy cultured yoghurt – a
well-balanced medley of sweet, spicy, floral flavours and
incredibly satisfying textures.
Breakfast at all-day dining spot Vervain was similarly
impressive; there was delicious granola made in-house,
poached eggs with smoked salmon and a very good
hollandaise, and I can confidently say that the pain au
chocolat – warm, crisp, and oozing with melted dark
chocolate – was quite simply the best I have ever eaten.
Guests are encouraged to immerse themselves in
Birch’s natural beauty; there are marked walking routes,
picnic tables and swaying hammocks dotted around the
grounds. After breakfast, we embarked on one of the
regular rewilding walks hosted by regenerative designer
and passionate environmentalist Sebastian Cox, who is
leading the rewilding project at Birch (Selsdon).
His plan is to allow the undulating 200-acre former
golf course to regenerate into a mosaic of woodland,
30 BritishTravelJournal.com