British Travel Journal | Autumn/Winter 2023

with the beach being dog-friendly all year round. When
we got back to the Inn, we sat in the courtyard with a drink
admiring the views and listening to the birds singing. It
was so peaceful, and we even had a herd of cows saunter
past us – a great reminder that taking life in the slow lane
can be so rewarding.
We spent the afternoon exploring Cwm Ivy and Whiteford
on the north coast. From the Cwm Ivy car park it’s a short
stroll down the lane through the Cwm Ivy Wood National
Trust gate. I was glad that I had brought some cash with
me because there was an honesty box for donations.
The pathway led us through a dreamy picture-book
setting that felt lost in time. The Monterey pine trees were
so beautiful, and if you looked to your left, you could see
the Cwm Ivy salt marsh and ancient sea wall. There were
two bird hides and plenty of opportunities for wildlife
spotting – otters, kingfishers, and wading birds can
often be seen here and if you are lucky you might catch a
glimpse of a marsh harrier, one of the UK’s rarest birds.
One of our highlights was stopping at Cwm Ivy Arts
and Crafts for a slice of their delicious homemade cake.
The gardens are an oasis of tranquillity and birdsong,
and the seating along the decking has been designed
for visitors to relax peacefully and make the most of the
panorama before them.
After a long day of exploring, we were grateful to
return to The King’s Head, our home from home, for a
hearty meal and a chance to reset and unwind.
The atmosphere at the Inn is very friendly. As an
overnight guest (there are three purpose-built blocks:
the townhouse next door, and two additional stone barn
conversions behind the pub) you are made very welcome
by the locals, and the menu is excellent too. There's a
daily specials board featuring locally sourced produce,
including Welsh lamb, pork, and venison. We enjoyed a
delicious home-cooked curry and steak-and-ale pie, and
settled in under the cozy beams by the burning stove.
The bar has an impressive collection of malt whiskys,
with over 100 varieties available. The landlady collected
most of them herself from Scotland, where she used to
travel for her previous role as president of the Shetland
pony society. There’s also a large selection of Welsh Real
Ales and Penderyn Whisky, distilled in Wales. It was the
perfect end to an incredible day.
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