The Clothed Body

Degree Zero of Fashion and the Body
cultivate towards a real puppy, a soft toy, or a whole species on the brink
of extinction.
In 1946 Walt Disney could make Peter and the Wolf with scenes of the
slaughtered wolf being brought back to the village by the hunters, whereas
today this would no longer be possible, not unless, as in the case of The
Lion King, the killing of the animal took place in a world where animals
were the only protagonists, humanized in their emotions and passions.
Remember that one of the most successful cartoon ‘baddies’ from the past
is Cruella D’Evil, the bewitching fur fanatic from 101 Dalmatians dressed
in flamboyant furs, wicked pursuer of ninety-nine puppies whom she
wants to turn into a fur coat.
So, a healthy aversion to those who exploit nature, not out of necessity
but out of force of habit and luxury, has existed for some time in the consciousness
of children. Today if Barbie, fetish object through whom all the
symbols of fashion in the last decades have passed, sets herself up as a
champion of the animal protection crusade, furriers and designers in that
sector had better beware!
Barbie is of great importance to the youngest age groups as far as constructing
an exterior identity based on clothing and care for one’s body is
concerned. Unlike her clones, who have invaded publicity, this is about the
game of dressing her up, undressing her and dressing her up again, doing
her hair, doing her makeup, adorning her with jewellery, and making the
flexible version do difficult gymnastic movements. All these ritualistic
games concern the establishment of taste and aesthetic sense. It then
depends on many other factors whether the taste and aesthetic sense of the
little girl or boy who play with Barbie manage to avoid stereotypes and
pre-packed models later in life. The real responsibility of these models lies,
not with Barbie and her make-believe world but with the real world, the
world where multinational toy companies, while Barbie is carrying out her
anti-fur campaign, continue to exploit human resources in their factories
in the Far East.
An anthropologist in the year 3000 will probably study Barbie as one of
the most common finds of the silicon age, along with jeans and mysterious,
deteriorated celluloid tapes. In the meantime, without demonizing her or
making her out to be a heroine, we can continue to reflect on how this
object – at once a frozen and consumed image of the female body, fetish
object, toy and symbol – can continue to be a prime player in the image
game.
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