HANGING & GLAZING TImber DOOrS - Wickes

FIG. 7
FIG. 8
FIG. 9
SILL
No timber should be left untreated.
When this has dried the entire door should
be given three coats of Wickes High
Performance Woodstain. It is very much
easier to apply these treatments to the door
before it is finally hung and it ensures that
it is well protected before having to face the
weather.
Failure to treat any exterior door before
it is hung will lead to the absorption of
moisture which will cause the door to swell
and perhaps even become distorted. Never
forget the top and bottom edges.
The sooner it is treated the better and the
treatment should be the same on both sides
of the door. If you use a microporous finish
on the outside, you must do the same on the
inside.
When the Wickes High Performance
Woodstain has dried the door can be hung
again with all hinge screws being driven in.
1 2 3
NOTE POSITION OF CHISEL BEVELLED EDGE
GLASS
CENTRALISED IN
OPENING PRESSED
AGAINST MASTIC
3mm SETTING
BLOCKS – MATCHSTICKS OR
TIMBER WEDGES
MASKING
TAPE
CONCAVE
FINISH TO
SEALANT
WEATHERBAR
A WEATHERSTRIP
An alternative treatment would be with Wickes
Quick Drying Woodstains which are available
in a range of colours, but, again, every single
surface of the door must be treated.
LOCKS & LATCHES
Once the door is hung locks or latches and
the other furniture can be fitted. For security
reasons it is recommended that a front door
should be fitted with (a) a cylinder rim lock,
(b) a 5-lever mortice deadlock to BS 3621 for
use when the house is unoccupied and (c) a
security chain or door viewer.
A back door should have a mortice sashlock
to BS 3621 fitted along with two security rack
bolts.
No locks should be cut into doors in line
with any centre or off centre horizontal mid
rail since this will weaken the joint possibly
causing separation of the joint and a
breakdown in the surface protection. Such
action will invalidate your guarantee.
If an outward opening door has been fitted,
with the vulnerable hinge pivots accessible
to an intruder, a pair of Wickes hinge bolts
should be fitted to prevent the intruder lifting
the door out of the frame after removing the
hinge pins. All locks are supplied with full fitting
instructions.
GLAZING DOORS
If necessary, the glazing of doors is carried out
only when the door has been hung. This is to
make the door lighter to handle and reduces
the risk of the glass being damaged.
The use of putty for the glazing of decorative
doors especially those which are not to be
painted is not recommended. It can be difficult
to obtain a putty which matches the colour of
the door and many people find it difficult to use
putty and obtain a neat finish.
A timber glazing bead used with our gun
applied all purpose silicone sealant is a far
better way of achieving a professional finish
to your glazing work and Wickes supply a
matching glazing bead for their doors.
Like the hardwood doors, this glazing bead is
pre-treated with a basecoat. It is available in
2.4m lengths. Some doors are supplied with
pre-cut beads. Whilst waiting to hang the door
you should cut the glazing beads to size with
mitred ends for each glass opening. Once cut,
the bead ends should be treated with two coats
of Wickes High Performance Woodstain and
then all faces treated with a finishing coat of
your choice.
To fit the glass, apply a bed of the sealant to
the rebate upstand. The bed should be about
4mm thick all round. Press the glass into
position, centrally in the opening against the
sealant, compressing this to about 3mm thick.
In order to ensure that the glass does not
slide to the bottom of the glass opening it is
recommended that small wooden wedges
about 3mm thick and 4mm wide are used as
setting blocks on which the bottom edge of the
glass rests. Matchsticks can be used or small
scraps of timber. Do not use any metal items to
act as setting blocks. FIG. 8.
The use of these blocks is essential when
fitting Wickes clear bevelled edge glass to
ensure that the bevelling remains equally
aligned around each pane.
Apply more sealant to the face of the glass
around the perimeter, again about 4mm
thick, then fit the pre-cut glazing bead. This
should be pushed firmly against the sealant to
compress it. Pin the bead in place with 25mm
panel pins. Do not pin within 50mm of the end
of each piece of bead since this could cause it
to split. Punch the nail heads below the timber
surface. In-fill the resulting hollows with a
matching filler or sealant.
The excess sealant squeezed out on either
side of the glass must now be removed to
leave a neat slightly concave surface. This is
particularly important on the outside to ensure
that rainwater runs off easily. FIG. 10.
After glazing has been completed the door
should be lightly sanded and given a further
coat of your chosen topcoat on both sides.
FITTING A NEW EXTERIOR DOOR FRAME
As mentioned earlier it will often be necessary
to fit a new door frame as well as a new door.
This is a relatively straightforward process and
begins with measuring the existing brickwork
opening dimensions to check that one of
Wickes hardwood frames, complete with a
sill, will fit. The necessary brickwork opening
dimensions were given earlier but it should be
stressed that those dimensions do give about
9mm clearance, so that the frame can be set
squarely.