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Roger Dubuis - The Time Place

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TAG<br />

HeueR<br />

Celebrates<br />

years<br />

150<br />

TUDOR<br />

Returns To<br />

<strong>The</strong> Spotlight<br />

#26<br />

Introducing<br />

<strong>Roger</strong><br />

<strong>Dubuis</strong><br />

ZeNITH’S<br />

El Primero<br />

Strikes Back


welcoMe note<br />

6<br />

T<br />

o open, I would like to personally<br />

announce and invite all of our<br />

distinguished customers to visit<br />

the most recent addition to our<br />

<strong>The</strong> <strong>Time</strong> <strong>Place</strong> family, our Pacific<br />

<strong>Place</strong> boutique. It is interesting<br />

that despite the major expansion of our company’s<br />

retail network, encompassing IN<strong>Time</strong>, TAG<br />

Heuer, Chanel, Cartier, Urban Icon, Fossil and<br />

Watch<strong>Time</strong> International, that we are only now<br />

opening the fourth <strong>The</strong> <strong>Time</strong> <strong>Place</strong>.<br />

In fact, <strong>The</strong> <strong>Time</strong> <strong>Place</strong> is meant to be something<br />

quite unique and a true destination for the<br />

timepiece fan. To paraphrase an old cliche, “if<br />

you can’t do something great, better not do it at<br />

all.” We have worked hard on developing internal<br />

standards that can put us in the category of<br />

“world class” service. This is a continual process<br />

and we are doing our utmost to ensure that each<br />

store has the best products, the best brands and,<br />

most of all, the best teams to serve you. We believe<br />

that the new boutique will certainly live up<br />

to those high standards.<br />

In keeping with the theme of great brands, this<br />

edition focuses on commemorating the history of<br />

TAG Heuer and Chopard, both of whom are celebrating<br />

their 150th anniversaries. In addition,<br />

we have an interesting article about how some<br />

brands in the timepiece industry are doing their<br />

part to help save the environment.<br />

We hope you enjoy this edition and anxiously<br />

await your comments on the new boutique as<br />

well as any other ideas you have on how we can<br />

serve you even better.<br />

Irwan Danny Mussry<br />

Editor-In-Chief and Publisher


8<br />

26<br />

06 welcoMe note<br />

cover FeATUre<br />

36 tAG HeUeR<br />

TAG Heuer takes a swing<br />

at its 150th anniversary<br />

with the pendulum.<br />

<strong>The</strong><br />

<strong>Time</strong> <strong>Place</strong><br />

INDONESIA<br />

FeATUre<br />

42 cHAnel<br />

Marine expedition<br />

A new version of the J12 is making waves.<br />

44 cHoPARD<br />

Great Machines & Playful creatures<br />

Glitz and great machines combine as<br />

Chopard hits a milestone.<br />

48 DIoR<br />

Triple Threat<br />

Dior’s 2010-2011 collection takes a<br />

feminine direction.<br />

50 RoleX<br />

Submarine emerald<br />

Rolex takes green to a new level with<br />

a new Submariner.<br />

53 RoGeR DUBUIS<br />

enduring Identity<br />

A newcomer shows that greatness need<br />

not take much time.<br />

62 ZenItH<br />

<strong>The</strong> el-Primero Strikes Back<br />

Zenith strikes a blow for great watch making<br />

with its newest El Primero piece.<br />

72 MInUteS of cAlIBRe<br />

carl cunanan<br />

How Tudor is returning to the spotlight.<br />

INTervIeW<br />

GIUlIo PAPI<br />

When Intricacy Becomes an Art Form<br />

reGULAr coLUMNS<br />

10 SocIetY<br />

25 InDUStRY newS<br />

56 PHoto SHoot<br />

78 celeBRItIeS<br />

10<br />

16<br />

contentS<br />

44<br />

42<br />

the time <strong>Place</strong> Magazine, edition 26.<br />

All rights reserved, copyright 2010 by PT Komunikasi Perkasa International<br />

Reproduction in whole or part without permission is prohibited<br />

editor-In-chief and Publisher: Irwan Danny Mussry<br />

Managing editor: Matthew Mendelsohn<br />

Associate Managing editor: Shannon Hartono<br />

Production Manager: Shinta Hukom<br />

contributors: Astrid Natasastra, Christine Terrisse, Carl Cunanan, Liza Sani, Andini Haryani<br />

Art Director: Noni Soeparman<br />

contributing Photographers: Iswanto Soerjanto, Pujiono, Agus Pakan<br />

for Advertising Inquiries:<br />

Please contact Anindita Maharupini at anindita.maharupini@time.co.id or +62 21 522 8182<br />

To receive a free copy of <strong>The</strong> <strong>Time</strong> <strong>Place</strong> Magazine at your home or office,<br />

Please contact us at subscription@time.co.id or +62 21 522 8182<br />

<strong>The</strong> <strong>Time</strong> <strong>Place</strong>, Plaza Senayan:<br />

Plaza Senayan, Level 1 #125, Jakarta, tel: +62 21 572 5759<br />

<strong>The</strong> <strong>Time</strong> <strong>Place</strong>, Plaza Indonesia:<br />

Plaza Indonesia, Level 1 #165, Jakarta, tel: +62 21 310 7715<br />

<strong>The</strong> <strong>Time</strong> <strong>Place</strong>, Pacific <strong>Place</strong>:<br />

Pacific <strong>Place</strong>, Ground Floor #12A-B, Jakarta, tel: +62 21 5140 2776<br />

<strong>The</strong> <strong>Time</strong> <strong>Place</strong>, Tunjungan Plaza 4:<br />

Tunjungan Plaza 4, Level UG # 14-16, Surabaya, tel: +62 31 532 7991<br />

www.thetimeplace.co.id<br />

18<br />

36<br />

50


SocIetY<br />

10<br />

1 2 3 4<br />

5 6<br />

7 8 9 10<br />

A Musical Tribute<br />

<strong>The</strong> <strong>Time</strong> <strong>Place</strong> recently held a special<br />

party to mark the launch of Audemars<br />

Piguet’s limited edition Quincy Jones<br />

Millenary timepiece. During the event,<br />

composer Andi Rianto, was presented<br />

with one of the limited editions watches<br />

in appreciation of his contribution to<br />

the Indonesian music scene. Andi then<br />

played a short medley of Quincy Jones<br />

hits for the gathering of VIP customers<br />

and media.<br />

1. Mr. & Mrs. Jones Djati Sasmito 2. Tisa Wiranata 3. Grace Herosav & Michael 4. Mr. & Mrs. Jacky Mussry 5. Chossy Latu 6. Julie Chandra, Melly Chandra & Walid Birak<br />

7. Taufik Hidayat 8. Dewi Ifo & Alfia Setiawan 9. Mr. & Mrs. Indra Bakrie 10. Irwan D. Mussry, Michael Dong & Andi Rianto.


SocIetY<br />

12<br />

1<br />

3<br />

6 7<br />

4<br />

2<br />

5


8<br />

11 12<br />

9 10<br />

<strong>Time</strong> for a Road Trip<br />

Last June, Jaeger-LeCoultre and <strong>The</strong> <strong>Time</strong> <strong>Place</strong><br />

held their third annual VIP road show dinner in<br />

collaboration with Horomundi. This year, the<br />

Jakarta dinner was held at Shangri-La Hotel’s fine<br />

Italian restaurant, Rosso, while in Surabaya, the<br />

exclusive gathering was held at the ballroom of the<br />

Shangri-La Hotel. Over 180 guests attended in total<br />

for the two events to enjoy cocktails and dinner<br />

while viewing the 2010 collection by the famed<br />

manufacture. Patrick Boutellier, Managing Director<br />

of Jaeger-LeCoultre South East Asia was on hand<br />

for the event, accompanied by commentator and<br />

connoisseur Ng Tjeng Jaw from Horomundi.<br />

13 14 15<br />

1. George Alamsyah, Robby Alamsyah, Liem Swee King & Alex 2. Irwan D. Mussry & Sugiharto Santosa 3. Noel Arbianto 4. Mr. & Mrs. William 5.<br />

Annie Adjam & Tisa Wiranata 6. Nomura & John 7. Mr. & Mrs. Ruddy Susanto, Anton Harsono & William M 8. Budi Santoso Gunardi & Michelle Quan<br />

9. Patrick Boutellier, J. R. Radjimin, Irwan D. Mussry 10. 2010 SIHH Novelties on display 11. Wawan Rajamin & Daughter 12. Mr. & Mrs. Hendra<br />

Joewono 13. Ivan S. Hartono & Yulia Hunjaya 14. Mr. & Mrs. Jos Mardanus 15. Mr. & Mrs. Hendriadi Wachid<br />

13


SocIetY<br />

4<br />

14<br />

1 2<br />

A Round of Golf<br />

Corum, together with <strong>The</strong> <strong>Time</strong> <strong>Place</strong> and a handful<br />

of other prestigious brand names, supported a<br />

golf event, held by the Indonesian Chambers of<br />

Commerce and Industry West Europe Committee<br />

(KIKEB) at Rancamaya Golf Club and Resort. <strong>The</strong><br />

Minister of Industry, Mr. M. S. Hidayat, Chairman<br />

of KIKEB, Mr. Maxi Gunawan, and the Ambassador<br />

of the European Union, Mr. Julian Wilson, were all<br />

on hand at the event together with Indonesia’s<br />

2009 Miss Tourism, Ms. Andara Rainy Ayudini. <strong>The</strong><br />

Minister of Culture and Tourism, Mr. Jero Wacik,<br />

presented Mr. Kokorjadi Chandra with a Corum<br />

Admiral’s Cup as a lucky draw prize.<br />

3<br />

1. John Praseto, Hayono Isman, Iman Hilmansah & Reza Abidin 2. Maxi Gunawan & Iwan Chandra 3. Ian Robert, Ilham Habibi & John Salvin 4. Rohyanto,<br />

Jero Wacik & Nunus 5. Rudi Borgenheimer, Andara Rainy Ayudini, H.E. Julian Wilson.<br />

5


SocIetY<br />

16<br />

1<br />

4 5<br />

6 7 8<br />

9<br />

1. Deborah Iskandar 2. Mr. & Mrs. Hotma Sitompoel 3. Special performance by Ello 4. Rifat Sungkar, Sissy Prescillia & Scott Beckwith 5. Irwan D. Mussry & Soetikno<br />

Soedarjo 6. Paul F. Lie 7. Julie Estelle 8. Malik Bawazier & Yuni Soediro 9. Joelle Sassoon & Justin Cohen<br />

2<br />

Celebrating 150 years<br />

of Heritage<br />

Earlier this year, TAG Heuer and <strong>Time</strong><br />

International kick – started a series of four<br />

exclusive exhibitions, in commemoration<br />

of the brand’s 150th anniversary. <strong>The</strong><br />

opening cocktail event was held at Plaza<br />

Senayan’s atrium, featuring a special<br />

musical performance by Ello, one of<br />

Indonesia’s best solo male artists. Guests<br />

were led by the bubbly, Melissa Karim.<br />

<strong>The</strong> fun-filled exhibition which offered<br />

daily fashion shows, a live DJ and games<br />

– started immediately after the opening<br />

cocktail and lasted for four days.<br />

3


society<br />

18<br />

1 2<br />

5<br />

Country Style<br />

Chanel’s seasonal fashion shows<br />

are always among the most widely<br />

anticipated social events of the<br />

year. For the Spring Summer 2010<br />

season, Chanel created a barnyard<br />

theme inspired by French peasants<br />

of earlier days. More than 300<br />

attendees witnessed models<br />

walking down a unique hay and<br />

wood catwalk showing off this<br />

season’s risque collections.<br />

3 4<br />

7 8 9<br />

6<br />

10<br />

13 14 15<br />

11 12<br />

16 17 18<br />

1-5. <strong>The</strong> looks of Chanel Spring Summer 2010 6. Michelle Sassoon & Dian Muljadi 7. Mr. & Mrs. Bambang Rachmadi 8. VIP front row seating<br />

9. Ria Juwita & Isabel Jahja 10. Agam Riadi & Sebastian Gunawan 11. Lena Darmawang, Lilianti, Henny Sugiharto, Swanny S 12. Juni Sudiro 13. Mr.<br />

& Mrs. Dimple Ramchandani 14. Amanda & Irma Hutabarat 15. Michelle Sassoon, Nadia, Victor Sassoon & Loemongga 16. Ivan Gunawan & Desy<br />

Ratnasari 17. Jania Mulam & Manisa Keswani 18. Sarah Moerad Oestara & Cecile W<br />

19


society<br />

20<br />

1 2 3 4<br />

5<br />

6 7 8 9<br />

Turning Three<br />

Leading men’s lifestyle and fashion<br />

magazine DaMan celebrated their<br />

its anniversary at Buddha Bar with<br />

Tudor and <strong>The</strong> <strong>Time</strong> <strong>Place</strong> among<br />

the main sponsors of the exciting<br />

event. MTV VJ Utt, along with<br />

publisher Ronald Liem were on<br />

hand to lead the event. Singer and<br />

crowd pleaser Chris Salvatore was<br />

flown in to perform for the elite<br />

crowd.<br />

1. Mr. & Mrs. Wahyu Nugroha 2. Patrice Egron & Family 3. Suhaka Nordin 4. Juana Rorimpandey & Aline Andita 5. MTV VJ Utt, Eugene Wong, Ryan<br />

Masao, Andrea Risjad & Ronald Liem 6. Ike V Beekum & Salome Dacey 7. Michelle & Denisa Suwandhi 8. Christina Djaja, Gladys Suwandhi & Peter<br />

Colman 9. Mr. & Mrs. Ferdy Hasan


society<br />

22<br />

1 2 3 4<br />

Nautical<br />

Adventures<br />

Swiss watchmaker IWC together<br />

with <strong>The</strong> <strong>Time</strong> <strong>Place</strong> treated their<br />

special guests to an exclusive<br />

preview of their 2010 novelties at<br />

Vin+, located at Plaza Senayan’s<br />

Arcadia building. Hosted by <strong>The</strong><br />

<strong>Time</strong> <strong>Place</strong>’s very own Irwan Danny<br />

Mussry together with Goris Verburg,<br />

General Manager of IWC South East<br />

Asia, the event was attended by over<br />

140 guests.<br />

5 6<br />

7 8 9 9<br />

1. Sugiharto Santosa & Sydney 2. Peter Hendry & Kennis Yam 3. Serene & Ted Sulisto 4. IWC’s Collection during the event 5. Meitha Anton 6. Joe Slaglan, Ade<br />

Andrini, Irwan D. Mussy, Taufik Hidayat 7. Virnie Ismail, Indra Brasco & Mona Ratuliu 8. Yuti Okta & Intan Febriana 9. Goris Verbug


society<br />

24<br />

1 2 3<br />

4 5<br />

Audemars<br />

Piguet Comes<br />

to Surabaya<br />

To celebrate Audemars Piguet<br />

timepieces becoming available<br />

in Surabaya for the first time ever<br />

through <strong>The</strong> <strong>Time</strong> <strong>Place</strong> Tunjungan<br />

Plaza, the boutique held a<br />

champagne party for more than<br />

100 VIP customers. On hand to<br />

emcee the event was former Puteri<br />

Indonesia runner-up, Nadia<br />

Mulya.<br />

6 7 8<br />

1. Erni & Rizal 2. Mr. & Mrs. Ivan Susanto Hartono 3. Mr. & Mrs. Herman 4. Johanes & Patria 5. Irina Damayanti, Sylvi Mutiara, Virgorina & Arlia Renasvati<br />

6. Mr. Soegiarto 7. Nicholas Pramono, Jos Mardanus, Michael Dong 8. Koesprijono<br />

A Plastiki<br />

ADVeNtURe<br />

IWC SupportS a<br />

Ground-BreakInG<br />

envIromental InItIatIve<br />

IWC Schaffhausen is one of the most active<br />

timepiece companies in the industry<br />

in backing environmental projects. Aside<br />

from striving to be the first Carbon Neutral<br />

timepiece company, IWC has also worked on<br />

a number of other initiatives including the<br />

Plastiki Expedition.<br />

4<strong>The</strong> Plastiki<br />

Adventure Ecology<br />

logo engraved on the<br />

case back<br />

4Ingenieur Automatic<br />

Mission Earth Edition<br />

“Adventure Ecology”<br />

Recently, a one of a kind Platinum Ingenieur<br />

Automatic Mission Earth Edition “Adventure<br />

Ecology” was auctioned off to the highest bidder<br />

for 30,800 Euro, with all proceeds going<br />

toward funding the expedition of the same<br />

name. <strong>The</strong> Plastiki is an 18-metre catamaran<br />

that travelled across the Pacific Ocean and<br />

was outfitted with solar panels, wind turbines<br />

iNDUstRy NeWs<br />

and bicycle-powered electricity generators.<br />

<strong>The</strong> barge was built to raise awareness<br />

of progressive ideas that help fight<br />

against environmental pollution.<br />

For their voyage, the members of the Plastiki<br />

were each equipped with a stainless<br />

steel IWC Ingenieur Automatic, limited to<br />

1,000 pieces. To commemorate the Plastiki<br />

expedition, the stainless steel case back<br />

is engraved with the Plastiki logo, making<br />

the timepiece an instant and highly<br />

sought after collectors item.<br />

Water-resistant to 120 metres, the case features<br />

protective shoulders for the crown<br />

and houses the IWC-manufactured 80110<br />

calibre, containing a soft-iron inner case<br />

to shield it against magnetic fields and a<br />

shock absorption system as protection<br />

against impact. As with the Plastiki expedition<br />

itself, IWC’s “Adventure Ecology”<br />

edition is equipped to take on even the<br />

harshest conditions.<br />

25


iNDUstRy NeWs<br />

Flying<br />

HiGH<br />

Ever since Breitling launched the<br />

Navitimer with its navigational<br />

slide rule bezel, they have been<br />

known for their professional pilot watches.<br />

This year, injecting cutting-edge electronics<br />

into the famous circular slide rule bezel<br />

for handling essential calculations for airborne<br />

navigation, Breitling has developed<br />

a worthy quartz successor to its pilot watch<br />

heritage in the new Chronospace.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Chronospace employs a number of<br />

functions perfect for the pilot including<br />

a 1/100th of a second chronograph with<br />

split times, coordinated universal time<br />

(UTC), perpetual calendar, 24-hour military<br />

time, alarm, countdown timer and a<br />

dual time zone display with independent<br />

alarm. <strong>The</strong> movement is not only COSC<br />

chronometer-certified but features Breitling’s<br />

famous SuperQuartz movement,<br />

ten times more accurate than an ordinary<br />

quartz movement.<br />

<strong>The</strong> dial features a traditional central hour,<br />

minutes and seconds hand with luminous<br />

hour-markers and a dual digital LCD read-<br />

26<br />

BreItlInG<br />

takeS to the<br />

SkIeS WIth the<br />

ChronoSpaCe<br />

<strong>The</strong> many faces<br />

of the new<br />

Chronospace<br />

out equipped with a backlight and a highperformance<br />

night vision compatible<br />

system, known as NVG for night vision<br />

goggles. All functions are controlled by<br />

analog-digital pushers located at 2 and<br />

4 o’clock. <strong>The</strong> star-shaped bezel makes<br />

it easy to operate the turning of circular<br />

rack-and-pinion mounted side rule. For<br />

those worried about missing their alarm,<br />

this watch has the capability to reach 90<br />

decibels, enough not to be drowned out<br />

while in the cockpit. <strong>The</strong> Chronospace is<br />

available with a sporty perforated rubber<br />

strap, aviator style leather strap or a new<br />

satin-brushed woven steel bracelet for the<br />

retro vintage look.


Showtime with<br />

AUDeMARs<br />

PiGUet<br />

28<br />

StarS joIn the<br />

WatChmaker<br />

to Support<br />

BroadWay CareS<br />

5<br />

1 2<br />

Audemars Piguet is well known for<br />

maintaining a range of charity collaborations<br />

with various celebrities.<br />

<strong>The</strong> most prominent initiative of the company<br />

is the <strong>Time</strong> to Give Foundation,<br />

founded in 2000. <strong>The</strong> brand is also a renowned<br />

patron of the arts and for the<br />

second year in a row, Audemars Piguet<br />

was also the official red carpet sponsor<br />

of the 64th Annual Tony Awards.<br />

Recently, in conjunction with the opening<br />

of its 57th Street flagship boutique<br />

in New York, Audemars Piguet, partnered<br />

with the Tony Awards to hold an auction<br />

to benefit Broadway Cares/Equity Fights<br />

AIDS. <strong>The</strong> Tony Awards, a celebration of the<br />

best in Broadway shows, was the perfect cooperation<br />

that brought out the most gifted<br />

and revered Broadway actors to the forefront<br />

in helping to bring attention to this<br />

4<br />

noble cause. Actors including Meryl Streep,<br />

Hugh Jackman, Sienna Miller and Kristin<br />

Chenoweth personalized a total of twentyseven<br />

Audemars Piguet watches.<br />

As a special highlight, the Audemars Piguet<br />

“Royal Offshore 57th Street” limited edition<br />

watch was designed to commemorate this<br />

New York moment and partnership with<br />

the Tony Awards. A pair of men’s and women’s<br />

Royal Oak Offshore 57th Street watches<br />

signed by Daniel Radcliffe and Scarlett Johansson<br />

along with “Sex and the City” star<br />

Cynthia Nixon’s Lady Royal Oak, and Nathan<br />

Lane’s “Jules Audemars” self-winding chronograph<br />

with 18-karat pink gold case were<br />

each offered on auction.<br />

As part of the Tony Awards sponsorship, the<br />

brand decorated the carpet with eight wall<br />

clocks signed by the nominees for “Best<br />

Musical” and “Best Musical Revival”. <strong>The</strong>se<br />

clocks were auctioned off to benefit Broadway<br />

Cares/Equity Fights AIDS.<br />

1. Nick Cannon<br />

2. Vanessa Williams<br />

3. Morgan Pressel & Cristie Kerr<br />

4. <strong>The</strong> Hugh Jackman personalized watch<br />

5. Meryl Streep’s personalized version<br />

3


iNDUstRy NeWs<br />

30<br />

<strong>The</strong> Grande<br />

Reverso<br />

Duodate 986<br />

Another Award for<br />

JAeGeR-<br />

LecoULtRe<br />

the Grande reverSo<br />

duodate GraBS WatCh<br />

of the year<br />

4<strong>The</strong> opposite<br />

face features<br />

a day and night<br />

indicator<br />

Perhaps no watchmaker has a trophy case as full<br />

as Jaeger-LeCoultre. This prestigious manufacture<br />

has, through its history, perfected the<br />

manufacturing of distinctive and complex movements<br />

and timepieces admired the world over. This past June,<br />

the brand added yet another award as Grande Reverso<br />

986 Duodate was honoured as Watch of the Year in the<br />

€3000-10.000 price range category by 00/24 Horloges<br />

Magazine.<br />

A limited edition in the classic Reverso collection, the<br />

Grande Reverso 986 Duodate was created with a 31.3<br />

mm wide by 52 mm high case produced in only 2000<br />

pieces, 500 pieces in 18k pink gold and an additional<br />

1,500 stainless steel. <strong>The</strong> watch has two faces, the first<br />

of which displays the main time zone with date and seconds<br />

against an intricately designed silver Clou-de-Paris<br />

hobnail pattern standing out against a surrounding vertical<br />

guilloche area.<br />

Swivel the watch back and it reveals an equally beautiful<br />

display inspired by the Art Deco style of the 1930s,<br />

the birth period of the Reverso collection. This dial<br />

features a day and night indicator and<br />

is elegantly accentuated with a<br />

black velvet finish, all powered<br />

by the manually<br />

wound Calibre 986<br />

movement.


iNDUstRy NeWs<br />

One could reasonably equate the Paneristi, the<br />

dedicated community of Panerai fans, with<br />

Harley Davidson Hogs or Grateful Dead Deadheads.<br />

As the largest independent community of luxury<br />

watch enthusiasts on record, Paneristis have a devotion<br />

to their brand unequalled in the industry. <strong>The</strong> club recently<br />

celebrated the 10th anniversary of the launch of<br />

their fan website and forum, Paneristi.com, the ultimate<br />

‘central market’ where Panerai fans share information<br />

and get connected to each other.<br />

In honour of these fans, Panerai recently released the<br />

limited edition Luminor for Paneristi’s Anniversary.<br />

Keeping in mind the most popular features of a Panerai<br />

according to the Paneristi and the guidelines and<br />

preferences expressed by the fan community, the timepiece<br />

comes with a 44mm Luminor case, a diamond-<br />

32<br />

<strong>The</strong> classic and<br />

vintage look<br />

of the PAM360<br />

A special<br />

engraving to<br />

commemorate<br />

the site’s tenth<br />

anniversary<br />

PANeRistis<br />

Rejoice<br />

paneraI releaSeS SpeCIal<br />

pIeCe for panerIStI.Com<br />

annIverSary<br />

like coated case, bezel, bridge and crown, the classic crown-protecting<br />

bridge device and the trademark Panerai classic numerals and large index<br />

markers. <strong>The</strong> watch also uses a special ecru SuperLumiNova to coat the<br />

hands and add to the watch’s vintage look. <strong>The</strong> watch is fitted with an OP I<br />

calibre movement and the case back is engraved with the words “Paneristi.<br />

com Tenth Anniversary”.<br />

<strong>The</strong> launch of this very special 300-piece limited edition watch was announced<br />

on the Paneristi.com forum this summer and almost immediately<br />

sold out. More importantly, the watch was hailed as an important<br />

step in bringing Panerai and its most dedicated followers just a little closer<br />

together.


INDUSTRY NEWS<br />

Beautiful<br />

PoSSESSIoN<br />

34<br />

PIAGET’S ICONIC LINE IS<br />

GIVEN A FRESH NEW FACE<br />

Piaget<br />

Possession<br />

Watch<br />

Today’s cosmopolitan<br />

female is a mix<br />

of many moods;<br />

strong yet feminine, fashionable<br />

yet casual, talented yet<br />

humble, stunning on the red<br />

carpet yet also a head turner<br />

on the street.<br />

Piaget has chosen to appeal to<br />

the multi-faceted female by<br />

selecting Sienna Miller as the<br />

muse for its iconic Possession collection’s<br />

20th anniversary. Not<br />

only is Sienna well known as<br />

an English model, actress and<br />

fashion designer, her signature<br />

style has also crowned<br />

her as a modern fashion icon.<br />

She serves as the Global Ambassador<br />

for International Medical<br />

Corps and is a leading activist in<br />

the Haitian relief effort.<br />

To integrate Sienna into the campaign,<br />

a talented fashion industry team including<br />

legendary photographer Raymond<br />

Meier, regular Vogue contributor, Elissa Santisi,<br />

makeup artist Gucci Westman, noted hair stylist,<br />

Esther Langham and master manicurist, Jin<br />

Soon were enlisted to help in bringing out the<br />

beauty of both Sienna and the iconic Possession<br />

pieces.<br />

<strong>The</strong> campaign takes on three moods, the confident,<br />

strong and feminine woman mood integrated<br />

a black and white outfit with sleek, slim<br />

black leather pants paired with a silky, sleeveless<br />

white top adorned by a Possession necklace,<br />

bracelet and ring in luxurious yellow gold<br />

material.<br />

Sienna Miller<br />

For the more lively look, Sienna appeared full<br />

of life with a more simple attire rounded out<br />

by a Possession timepiece, simple round earrings<br />

and white gold and diamond rings on<br />

each middle finger. Finally, Sienna was pictured<br />

In a more elegant mood with a perfect<br />

little black dress and neatly pulled hair that<br />

showcases the Possession collection beautifully<br />

with its gold diamond double hoop Possession<br />

earrings, pendant with white gold and<br />

fully paved diamonds to the classic diamond<br />

ring. To add a touch of modernity, a white gold<br />

and diamond cuff in circle motif encircled her<br />

arm.<br />

Irrespective of the mood, Piaget’s decision to<br />

choose Miller to embody one of their most<br />

successful jewelry collections will inspire other<br />

woman of today on the image of modern<br />

beauty.


covER fEaTURE<br />

36<br />

TAG Heuer<br />

Pendulum<br />

Cadran Black<br />

TaG HEUER<br />

Celebrating<br />

150 Years of Excellence


TAG Heuer is a brand that is not short of<br />

historical breakthroughs. For a company<br />

who’s name is a little-known acronym<br />

for techniques d’avant garde, (advance<br />

guard or vanguard techniques in French),<br />

invention and precision have always been<br />

hallmarks of the brand. This dedication to<br />

breaking the boundaries of watchmaking has<br />

resulted in the brand’s rapid ascent over the<br />

last four decades in particular. Despite all of<br />

the celebrity ambassadors, the participation<br />

in major automobile racing and golf events<br />

and the other glamour and glitz that goes with<br />

the brand, the highlight is really the product.<br />

Moreover, the last decade has been a “golden<br />

age” of sorts for the brand in developing<br />

groundbreaking products.<br />

An example of such groundbreaking product<br />

is the Monaco V4 watch which was commercially<br />

introduced in 2009 after being initially<br />

introduced into the market as a concept<br />

TAG Heuer<br />

Pendulum<br />

Couronne<br />

Pendulum Eclate<br />

THIS dEdICATION TO bREAkING THE bOuNdARIES<br />

OF WATCHmAkING HAS RESuLTEd IN THE bRANd’S<br />

RAPId ASCENT OVER THE LAST FOuR dECAdES IN<br />

PARTICuLAR.<br />

37


covER fEaTURE<br />

38<br />

dESPITE ALL OF THE CELEbRITy<br />

AmbASSAdORS, THE PARTICIPATION IN<br />

mAjOR AuTOmObILE RACING ANd GOLF<br />

EVENTS ANd THE OTHER GLAmOuR ANd<br />

GLITz THAT GOES WITH THE bRANd, THE<br />

HIGHLIGHT IS REALLy THE PROduCT.<br />

TAG Heuer<br />

Pendulum Cadran<br />

Black


THE TAG HEuER<br />

PENduLum<br />

CONCEPT bEATS AT<br />

43,200 bEATS PER HOuR<br />

(6 HERTz) ANd HAS<br />

mARkEd A NEW ERA IN<br />

WATCH-mAkING.<br />

TAG Heuer<br />

Pendulum<br />

Case Back<br />

39


covER fEaTURE<br />

watch in 2004. <strong>The</strong> remarkable concept watch<br />

was able to substitute traditional pinions and<br />

gear transmission with a belt-driven mechanical<br />

transmission instead and fast became the<br />

one of the most audacious movement designs<br />

in history.<br />

This year, to celebrate their 150th anniversary,<br />

TAG Heuer unveiled the revolutionary watch,<br />

the Pendulum Concept, a concept watch that<br />

completely reinvents the idea of an oscillator.<br />

<strong>The</strong> avant-garde Swiss watchmaker swapped<br />

the traditional hairsprings with magnets, ultimately<br />

creating the first-ever mechanical<br />

movement without a hairspring.<br />

Most mechanical movements involve four<br />

basic operations where energy is generated,<br />

stored, transmitted then regulated. <strong>The</strong> hairspring<br />

has always played a pivotal role in the<br />

regulation system. Now, thanks to an “invisible”<br />

or virtual spring derived from magnets,<br />

the physical coiled strip of fine metal alloy –<br />

better known as the hairspring – is no longer<br />

necessary.<br />

<strong>The</strong> magnetic fields generated are able to provide<br />

alternative oscillations of the balance<br />

wheel and make the pendulum an exceptionally<br />

good timekeeping device due to its<br />

resistance to changes from perturbing forces.<br />

Created by TAG Heuer’s Research & Development<br />

engineers together with Microsystems<br />

research experts at the Integrated Actuators<br />

Laboratory (LAI) over a span of five years,<br />

the TAG Heuer Pendulum Concept beats<br />

at 43,200 beats per hour (6 Hertz) and has<br />

marked a new era in watch-making.<br />

40<br />

Pendulum<br />

Tourbillon<br />

TAG Heuer<br />

Monaco<br />

<strong>The</strong> movement


MINI fEaTURE<br />

42<br />

cHaNEL’S<br />

Marine Expedition<br />

THE j12 mARINE IS<br />

LAuNCHEd TO CELEbRATE<br />

THE LINE’S TENTH<br />

ANNIVERSARy


In conjunction with the 10th anniversary<br />

of one of their most popular line<br />

of watches, the J12, Chanel launched<br />

the J12 Marine watch, an extremely sporty,<br />

elegant, high fashion-worthy timepiece.<br />

Unique for Chanel, the J12 Marine is an actual<br />

diving watch that is water resistant to<br />

300 metres in both the rubber matte bracelet<br />

and the case.<br />

Over the summer, with the launch of the<br />

J12 Marine, the watch’s own mini film circulated<br />

over the net showcasing the incomparable<br />

style of the timepiece, featuring the<br />

watch at the depths of the ocean floor.<br />

<strong>The</strong> carefully crafted watch is not made<br />

to just withstand the water, but rather to<br />

breathe in the water. <strong>The</strong> J12 Marine is<br />

<strong>The</strong> J12 Marine<br />

is available in<br />

Blue, White and<br />

Black<br />

SuPPORTEd by A CAREFuLLy CRAFTEd<br />

ENGRAVEd STEEL bACk, A SANd-bLASTEd<br />

CERAmIC ANd STEEL CASE, A POLISHEd ANd<br />

SATIN FINISH ARdILLON buCkLE ENGRAVEd<br />

WITH THE CHANEL LOGO, NOTHING IS<br />

COmPROmISEd.<br />

<strong>The</strong> J12 Marine<br />

was crafted to<br />

breathe in the<br />

water<br />

available in white with a white bezel (38mm),<br />

black with a blue bezel (38 and 42 mm),<br />

or black with a black bezel (38mm). Supported<br />

by a carefully crafted engraved steel<br />

back, a sand-blasted ceramic and steel case,<br />

a polished and satin finish ardillon buckle<br />

engraved with the Chanel logo, nothing is<br />

compromised. <strong>The</strong> self-winding watch offers<br />

a 42-hour power reserve and is highly shock<br />

and scratch resistant. A nautical instrument<br />

in itself, the J12 Marine watch is everything<br />

you could ask for in a watch and more.<br />

43


fEaTURE<br />

44<br />

GREaT MacHINES<br />

& Playful Creatures<br />

CHOPARd WELCOmES<br />

ITS 150TH ANNIVERSARy<br />

WITH A VARIEd<br />

COLLECTION<br />

150 years and numerous mind-blowing collections later, Louis-<br />

Ulysse Chopard would undoubtedly be very proud to see how<br />

his baby has grown and developed into a giant in the industry.<br />

Celebrating its 150th anniversary in 2010, the Chopard brand is still<br />

pervaded by the spirit instilled by its founder and nurtured by a blend<br />

of fine hand craftsmanship and daring technical developments.<br />

<strong>The</strong> L.U.C 150<br />

“All In One”<br />

bearing the<br />

Calibre 4QTE<br />

<strong>The</strong> L.U.C<br />

Louis-Ulysse<br />

- <strong>The</strong> Tribute<br />

watch bears<br />

the L.U.C<br />

Calibre EHG


L.U.C Calibre<br />

1TRM L.U.C<br />

Engine One<br />

Tourbillon<br />

foUR NEW caLIbRES<br />

To coMMEMoRaTE<br />

THE 150TH YEaR<br />

Over time, Chopard has become known for<br />

two dueling strengths, its reputation as a master<br />

jeweler and a more recent recognition as a<br />

fine watch manufacturer and movement developer<br />

that has been fostered primarily over<br />

the last two decades. To celebrate its 150th<br />

anniversary, Chopard marks its milestone<br />

by unveiling four new proprietary mechanical<br />

movements and timepieces designed,<br />

developed, fine-tuned and produced by the<br />

Chopar d Manufacture in Fleurier.<br />

<strong>The</strong> L.U.C Calibre EHG – L.U.C Louis-Ulysse –<br />

<strong>The</strong> Tribute is a tribute to the company’s dedication<br />

to fine watchmaking. Developed as<br />

collaboration with the Geneva Watchmaking<br />

School, this mechanical hand-wound movement<br />

fascinates at a cadence of 21,600 vibrations<br />

per hour and is endowed with an 80hour<br />

power reserve. <strong>The</strong> L.U.C Calibre EHG is<br />

chronometer-certified by the COSC and also<br />

bears the prestigious Poinçon-de-Genève<br />

quality hallmark. Inspired by a pocket-watch,<br />

but reinterpreted as a contemporary object,<br />

the L.U.C Louis-Ulysse – <strong>The</strong> Tribute preserves<br />

a century and a half of Chopard’s horological<br />

heritage.<br />

Expanding on the theme, the L.U.C Calibre<br />

4TQE is composed of 516 parts and its<br />

multi-complication mechanical handwound<br />

movement houses four barrels<br />

ensuring a seven-day power reserve.<br />

This movement is also COSC-certified and is<br />

equipped to Poinçon-de-Genève standards<br />

the L.U.C Calibre 4TQE shows the hours,<br />

minutes, small seconds on a tourbillon and<br />

also amazes with a perpetual calendar with<br />

24-hour indication, day of the week, date<br />

aperture, month, leap year, power reserve,<br />

24-hour indication, equation of time, sunrise<br />

and sunset times and moon phases. This<br />

achievement of fitting so many complications<br />

in one watch shows how far the manufacture<br />

has come.<br />

CELEbRATING<br />

ITS 150TH<br />

ANNIVERSARy IN 2010,<br />

THE CHOPARd bRANd<br />

IS STILL PERVAdEd by<br />

THE SPIRIT INSTILLEd<br />

by ITS FOuNdER ANd<br />

NuRTuREd by A<br />

bLENd OF FINE HANd<br />

CRAFTSmANSHIP ANd<br />

dARING TECHNICAL<br />

dEVELOPmENTS.<br />

<strong>The</strong> L.U.C Calibre 1TRM – L.U.C Engine One<br />

Tourbillon is distinguished by an innovative<br />

design inspired by the automotive industry. In<br />

reference to the world of fine cars, the “engine<br />

block”, featuring a reamed and sloping plate,<br />

is engraved with the name “Chopard”. <strong>The</strong><br />

COSC certified L.U.C Calibre 1TRM movement<br />

is mounted on shock-absorbing “silent<br />

blocks” and held in place by three lever-arms<br />

carved out of the case middle. Designed, developed<br />

and produced by Chopard, the timepiece<br />

beats at a cadence of 28,800 vibrations<br />

per hour and boasts a 60-hour power reserve.<br />

<strong>The</strong> L.U.C<br />

1937<br />

45


fEaTURE<br />

<strong>The</strong> Animal<br />

World watches<br />

<strong>The</strong> power-reserve display at 12 o’clock is positioned<br />

opposite the tourbillon bridge at 6<br />

o’clock, shaped like a brake disc.<br />

<strong>The</strong> L.U.C Calibre 1.010 – L.U.C 1937 represents<br />

a significant development linked to its<br />

suitability to industrial-scale production. This<br />

mechanical self-winding movement meets<br />

the most demanding market standards of performance,<br />

namely those of the COSC and the<br />

Chronofiable tests. Representing the industrial<br />

wing of Chopard Manufacture and incorporating<br />

207 parts, the L.U.C Calibre 1.010 is<br />

distinguished by its crown at 4 o’clock, along<br />

with a 60-hour power reserve, 31 rubies and a<br />

frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour.<br />

HaPPY DIaMoNDS<br />

While the new movements are a major focus<br />

of the 150th anniversary, jewelry pieces take<br />

a co-starring role. In 1976, Chopard unveiled<br />

the now-famed Happy Diamonds collection<br />

to the world, designed by the talented Ronald<br />

Kurowski. <strong>The</strong> incredible success of this collection,<br />

which has been offered many times<br />

since is now forever inextricably linked to the<br />

Chopard name.<br />

This year, to mark its 150th anniversary, Chopard<br />

also launched a major new Happy Diamonds<br />

collection with <strong>The</strong> Animal World<br />

46<br />

THE ANImALS ARE<br />

mAdE OF SHINING<br />

dIAmONdS PLACEd WITH<br />

THEIR RESPECTIVE LIVING<br />

ENVIRONmENTS. THE<br />

POLAR bEAR IS quIETLy<br />

NESTLEd IN THE ICE<br />

WORLd. THE mONkEy<br />

LIVES HAPPILy IN THE<br />

juNGLE ANd THE PENGuIN<br />

HAS ITS mATES TO kEEP IT<br />

COmPANy.<br />

watch. Following the traditional style of Chopard<br />

Happy Diamonds watches in terms of<br />

case shape and free floating diamonds inside<br />

the watch, polar bears, monkeys and penguins<br />

are featured in a most beautiful way.<br />

<strong>The</strong> animals are made of shining diamonds<br />

and placed with backgrounds of their respective<br />

living environments. <strong>The</strong> polar bear is<br />

quietly nestled in the ice world. <strong>The</strong> monkey<br />

lives happily in the jungle and the penguin<br />

has its mates to keep it company. <strong>The</strong>se adorable<br />

themes make for a playful, fun and precious<br />

collection.<br />

At first sight, one would consider this lady<br />

wristwatch collection as jewelry bracelets<br />

rather than timepieces. Its full diamonds<br />

design is eye-catching and the pentagoncut<br />

diamond plus other dazzling totally<br />

weigh 21.48 carats and the diamonds on<br />

the round dial weigh 2.70 carats making<br />

the watch far from modest. Housed inside<br />

the case is the hand-winding mechanical<br />

movement. <strong>The</strong> platinum arc-shaped<br />

bracelet strap is encrusted with 80 rectangle-cut<br />

diamonds and 290 round-cut diamonds.<br />

<strong>The</strong> collection is really a collection of<br />

artworks. <strong>The</strong> “Polar Bear” wristwatch<br />

is crafted from 18k platinum. <strong>The</strong> dial is<br />

made from the mother-of-pearl while the<br />

animal is fully paved with diamonds. <strong>The</strong><br />

watch bezel and crown are also encrusted<br />

with dazzling diamonds yet is waterproof<br />

to 30 metres.<br />

<strong>The</strong> “Monkey” of the collection is crafted<br />

from 18k rose gold with the dynamic diamond<br />

monkey on the MOP dial and golden<br />

satin strap. <strong>The</strong> “Penguin” is also crafted<br />

from 18k platinum with a dynamic penguin<br />

on the MOP dial and black stain strap.<br />

<strong>The</strong> other details of the latter two styles are<br />

the same as the polar bear reference.


fEaTURE<br />

48<br />

3Dior Christal<br />

Full Diamonds<br />

3La Mini D<br />

de Dior in Pink<br />

TRIPLE<br />

THREAT<br />

2010 COLLECTION RuNS<br />

THE GAmuT OF dIOR’S<br />

LOOkS


4Dior<br />

Christal<br />

Mysterieuse<br />

38mm<br />

As a watchmaker, Dior’s collections have been known for their<br />

undisputable beauty, which often derive its inspiration from<br />

the concept of refined and elegant couture clothes. <strong>The</strong> brand<br />

has been established on three main pillars, the La D de Dior, the Chiffre<br />

Rouge and the Christal. Each come together this year to make a<br />

spectacular 2010 collection.<br />

PUTTING THE ‘D’ IN DIoR<br />

Ever since its launch in 2003, the La D de Dior, created by talented jewelry<br />

designer Victoire de Castellane, has established itself as the most<br />

whimsical of the brand’s collections. This season, La D de Dior makes<br />

a comeback with a dual personality, a small version in 19mm and a<br />

larger 38mm. <strong>The</strong> La Mini D de Dior “Snow Set” Diamonds is rendered<br />

in white gold and is fitted with a bezel and a crown illuminated by the<br />

play of dazzling diamonds. <strong>The</strong> new dials are designed with all the features<br />

of luxury jewelry including a snow setting, chrysoprase, jade, turquoise<br />

or serpentine, all reminders of the material combination in the<br />

haute joaillerie collections of the house. Meanwhile the 38mm style is<br />

embellished with a black fire opal dial, resulting an iridescent reflection<br />

making it look simply sublime for the modern spirit.<br />

RoUGE To bLack<br />

Another classical watch that makes an unprecedented debut is the<br />

Chiffre Rouge T01. Constructed around a self-winding movement, the<br />

patented Dior 8 Fuseaux Horaires calibre, this unique movement was<br />

born from a collaboration with Swiss watch engineers Orny and Girardin.<br />

Launched in a limited edition of 100 timepieces, the Chiffre Rouge<br />

T01 enables you to read simultaneously on the same disk, not only local<br />

time and eight time zones, but also using a day/night indicator. <strong>The</strong><br />

correction of the time and the time zones is done with a single crown<br />

on the 42 mm steel case. Encompassed by a matte black ceramic bezel,<br />

accented with an iconic pique-de-coton patterned dial with four diamond<br />

indices and with a translucent black sapphire caseback, this is a<br />

truly mysterious and alluring timepiece.<br />

cHRISTaLLIZING DIoR<br />

In recent years, the Christal has served as the champion of the brand.<br />

This year, as a tribute to the brand’s passion for art and the lucky<br />

number of Christian Dior, the Christal 8 watch serves as a new intepre-<br />

tation of the Christal line. Launched in a limited series of just eight<br />

piece in gold and lacquer, the Christal 8 offers the versatility of a jewelry<br />

version with a set bezel or an Art Deco patterned reference.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Christal 8 incorporates a 33mm case and employs an automatic<br />

Elite movement by Zenith. This movement enables the watch owner<br />

to read three items of information on a single index such as local<br />

time, time in eight time zones worldwide, as well as day and night<br />

indications. <strong>The</strong> mechanism contains an oscillating weight inlaid<br />

with a gold leaf.<br />

Mother-of-pearl, sapphire crystal, lacquer, iolites,<br />

tangerine garnets, tsavorites, rubies, citrines,<br />

sapphires and rhodolites each provide<br />

a different theme to the various references.<br />

Through its colors and decorative motifs, each<br />

timepiece makes reference to a style from the<br />

show after which it is named. <strong>The</strong> dial echoes the<br />

subtle detailing on dresses or jackets in tribute to the<br />

seamstresses in the Haute Couture ateliers. Keeping<br />

the watch secured to the wearer’s wrist is a black python<br />

leather strap with a yellow gold ardillon buckle that is fitted<br />

to a black sapphire crystal insert.<br />

mOTHER-OF-PEARL, SAPPHIRE<br />

CRySTAL, LACquER, IOLITES,<br />

TANGERINE GARNETS, TSAVORITES,<br />

RubIES, CITRINES, SAPPHIRES ANd<br />

RHOdOLITES EACH PROVIdE A dIFFERENT<br />

THEmE TO THE VARIOuS REFERENCES.<br />

Chiffre Rouge<br />

in a Khakhi<br />

Fabric Strap<br />

49


feature<br />

50<br />

<strong>The</strong> Rolex<br />

Perpetual<br />

Submarine emerald<br />

a classic shows iTs<br />

green sTreak<br />

Rolex<br />

Submariner<br />

Emerald<br />

Paved Dial<br />

Rolex<br />

Submariner<br />

Emerald<br />

Paved Dial<br />

Originally designed for divers in the<br />

1950s, the Rolex Submariner watch<br />

quickly became a symbol of prosperity<br />

and luxury and has long been one of<br />

the most recognizable watches in the market.<br />

<strong>The</strong> watch has been part of expeditions<br />

both at land and sea, even withstanding<br />

temperatures of 45 degrees below Celsius in<br />

the famous Moana expedition. Having even<br />

appeared in eleven James Bond films, the<br />

Rolex Submariner is a watch that has a love<br />

for action, ready to take on the world. From<br />

London to Paris, San Francisco to New York,<br />

Shanghai to Jakarta, the Submariner has offered<br />

a great reminder.<br />

<strong>The</strong> new Submariner Emerald is a strong example<br />

of such enduring greatness. In 2010,<br />

Rolex has created a new classic in the Oyster<br />

Perpetual Submariner Emerald set with 36<br />

emeralds and 12 diamonds within its unidirectional<br />

rotatable bezel, the Submariner is<br />

an advanced version of the 2003 Green Submariner<br />

version that was released in conjunction<br />

with the model’s 50th anniversary.<br />

<strong>The</strong> colour green, which is strongly associated<br />

with the brand, is not only featured on the<br />

bezel, but also within the dial where eight emeralds<br />

are elegantly set as hour markers. <strong>The</strong><br />

entire case and bracelet is made in 18-carat<br />

white gold, and true to its initial purpose, is<br />

able to withstand the pressure of water to up<br />

to 300 metres or 1,000 feet.<br />

<strong>The</strong> color green, which is sTrongly<br />

associaTed wiTh <strong>The</strong> brand, is noT only<br />

feaTured on <strong>The</strong> bezel, buT also wiThin <strong>The</strong> dial<br />

where eighT emeralds are eleganTly seT as<br />

hour markers. <strong>The</strong> enTire case and braceleT<br />

is made in 18-caraT whiTe gold, and True To<br />

iTs iniTial purpose, is able To wiThsTand <strong>The</strong><br />

pressure of waTer To up To 300 meTers or 1,000<br />

feeT.<br />

Rolex<br />

Submariner<br />

Emerald<br />

Black Dial<br />

51


feature<br />

52<br />

<strong>The</strong> waTch has been<br />

parT of expediTions<br />

boTh aT land and sea,<br />

even wiThsTanding<br />

TemperaTures of 45<br />

degrees below celsius<br />

in <strong>The</strong> famous moana<br />

expediTion. having even<br />

appeared in 11 James bond<br />

films and sTill counTing,<br />

<strong>The</strong> rolex submariner is a<br />

waTch ThaT has a love for<br />

acTion, ready To Take on<br />

<strong>The</strong> world.<br />

Rolex Submariner<br />

Emerald Black Dial<br />

an enduring<br />

Identity<br />

roger dubuis leaves<br />

an undispuTed<br />

legacy in <strong>The</strong><br />

world of luxury<br />

In the so-called ‘old days’, great watch brands became<br />

known generally over time. Because the technologies<br />

involved in fine watchmaking were so advanced, it<br />

could take decades for a new manufacture to start to create<br />

complicated pieces and to become known as a truly fine<br />

watchmaker for these pieces.<br />

Enter the high-speed technology age and much has<br />

changed in the watch industry. Today, great watchmakers<br />

are considered as those who make great timepieces as opposed<br />

to simply those who endure for many years. It is in<br />

this environment that 15-year old brand <strong>Roger</strong> <strong>Dubuis</strong> has<br />

emerged and flourished.<br />

<strong>The</strong> tenacity of Carlos Dias as the founder of <strong>Roger</strong> <strong>Dubuis</strong><br />

has become a hallmark of devotion in the universe of horol-<br />

<strong>Roger</strong> <strong>Dubuis</strong><br />

Manufature<br />

Excalibur<br />

Butterfly<br />

Calendar<br />

53


feature<br />

54<br />

<strong>The</strong> Factory<br />

ogy. Equipped with a well-rounded experience<br />

amassed during his career in the watchmaking<br />

manufacturing and business, his decision to<br />

found his own company in 1995 seemed to be<br />

a natural progression. While the brand started<br />

out with the rather inauspicious SOGEM (Société<br />

Genevoise des Montres) moniker, the<br />

change of the brand identity to <strong>Roger</strong> <strong>Dubuis</strong><br />

seems to have worked wonders in making the<br />

company better recognized.<br />

<strong>The</strong> company’s rise to credibility is founded on<br />

its subtle mix of the tradition and modernity,<br />

seamlessly blended in its collection reflecting<br />

watchmaking culture and the most advanced<br />

technology available. Every <strong>Roger</strong> <strong>Dubuis</strong><br />

timepiece is built to the Poinçon de Geneve<br />

standard, marking a superiority of the movement<br />

and quality of the timepiece.<br />

At the 2011 SIHH, <strong>Roger</strong> <strong>Dubuis</strong> proudly presented<br />

the four most prominent signature<br />

pieces that are the brand’s main pillars; <strong>The</strong><br />

Excalibur, Kingsquare, Easy Diver and Golden<br />

Square.<br />

Choice of material has been an essential part in<br />

every collection, signifying a comittment in applying<br />

new technology and innovation in de-<br />

sign. <strong>The</strong> Excalibur, this year comes in platinum,<br />

marking <strong>Roger</strong> <strong>Dubuis</strong>’ first venture into using<br />

platinum. Exclusively made in a limited quantity<br />

of only 28 units the Excalibur design prowess actually<br />

lies in its distinct features a 45 mm diameter,<br />

wristband secured by the unique triple lugs,<br />

majestic crown guard, fluted bezel and the remarkable<br />

“Grande Complication” movement. <strong>The</strong><br />

latest collection comes in different models, including<br />

the flying tourbillon and rose gold minute<br />

repeater, along with self-winding of double micro<br />

rotor in platinum. <strong>The</strong> five - windows perpetual<br />

calendar, with a manual wind, double flying tourbillon<br />

with differential, tourbillon cages visible<br />

between 4 and 5 o’clock and 7 and 8 o’clock adds<br />

to the innovative design. While the jumping dials<br />

are expressed in Roman numerals, the retrograde<br />

minute dials are in Arabic numerals, in deference<br />

to the company’s unique ability in combining different<br />

cultural influences.<br />

<strong>The</strong> centerpiece of <strong>Roger</strong> <strong>Dubuis</strong>’ international<br />

marketing campaign, with its popular appeal to<br />

factory[1].tif<br />

Excalibur<br />

Automatic<br />

Flying Tourbillon<br />

a wide spectrum of clients, the EasyDiver collection<br />

was first intended to infuse the lines between<br />

aesthetically pleasing watches and the robustness<br />

of a sports watch. For a number of years now, the<br />

EasyDiver, has been proven as a steady companion<br />

for its clients’ many challenging activities,<br />

thanks to its sturdy feature and enduring appeal.<br />

Whether in the self-winding, hours and minutes<br />

in 43 mm diameter, or the chronograph with micro<br />

rotor self-winding, the EasyDiver is marked by<br />

the distinct orange accents on the bezel along with<br />

the rubber accent on the back. For the ladies, a 40<br />

mm version is available in mother-of-pearl dial<br />

and diamond- encrusted accents on the bezel.<br />

<strong>The</strong> KingSquare conjures up images of an endowed<br />

aristocratic shape, a truly remarkable feat<br />

in combining tradition, structural design and innovative<br />

technology, the tourbillon comes in matte<br />

and alligator strap and the hand wound movement<br />

is stamped with the ubiquitous Geneva Seal.<br />

Retaining only the bare necessities, a skeleton<br />

version exudes the contemporary edge of King-<br />

Square. <strong>The</strong> KingSquare for ladies is a celebration<br />

of feminity, offering a graceful movement marked<br />

by the triple beating hearts, Cupid’s arrows and<br />

<strong>The</strong> Subtle<br />

feminine<br />

King Square<br />

a satin strap. It is a sheer voyeuristic pleasure presented<br />

through the openwork movement.<br />

Committed to its founding mission, and with a line of novelties<br />

as well as the all-time favourite classic New Golden<br />

Square, <strong>Roger</strong> <strong>Dubuis</strong> will remain on the front row when<br />

it comes to time measurement accorded with an audacity<br />

of design.<br />

commiTTed To iTs founding<br />

mission charTer, and wiTh a<br />

line of novelTies as well as <strong>The</strong><br />

all-<strong>Time</strong> favouriTe classic new<br />

golden square, roger dubuis<br />

will remain fronT row in <strong>Time</strong><br />

measuremenT accorded wiTh<br />

an audaciTy of design.<br />

Easy Driver<br />

Sporty Elegant<br />

55


Chopard<br />

Mille Miglia GT XL<br />

Racing, White Dial<br />

Chronograph,<br />

Limited Edition<br />

Zenith<br />

El Primero<br />

Striking 10th<br />

Breitling<br />

Chronomat B01


Jaeger-leCoultre<br />

Master Compressor<br />

Extreme World<br />

Chronograph<br />

VaCheron<br />

Constantin<br />

Patrimony<br />

Complications<br />

audemars piguet<br />

Millenary Pink Gold


Cartier<br />

Calibre de Cartier<br />

with Paved Bezel<br />

Calibre de Cartier<br />

Black Dial<br />

hamilton<br />

Khaki Pioneer<br />

Mechanical<br />

PhoTogRAPhER<br />

iswanto soerjanto<br />

ART DiRECToR<br />

noni soeparman


feature<br />

62<br />

El Primero<br />

Striking 10th in<br />

Rose gold<br />

zeniTh’s el primero adds<br />

sophisTicaTion wiTh a<br />

sTriking 10Th<br />

tHe<br />

el-PrimerO<br />

Strikes Back<br />

For more than three decades, Zenith’s El<br />

Primero movement has been the epitome<br />

of precision and technical elegance. Despite<br />

Zenith’s tremendous watchmaking history, the El<br />

Primero has been able to carve a special place for<br />

itself in the brand’s history thanks to its ability to<br />

beat ten times a second and subsequent breakthroughs<br />

in its dry lubrication construction and<br />

specially-adapted power reserve function.<br />

Although the El Primero has been so acclaimed,<br />

Zenith is not stopping in further<br />

developing it. With new CEO Jean-Frédéric<br />

Dufour taking the helm, the El Primero was<br />

adapted for a new El Primero Striking 10th<br />

timepiece. <strong>The</strong> watch is the first salvo in Mr.<br />

Dufour’s efforts to highlight the technical expertise<br />

that brought Zenith to the forefront of<br />

movement manufacturing in the first place.<br />

With a jumping seconds chronograph, the<br />

El Primero Striking 10th provides visibility<br />

of the smallest fraction of time measured by<br />

a series-produced mechanical movements.<br />

<strong>The</strong> making of one Striking 10th timepiece involves<br />

nine months of work by twenty watchmakers.<br />

4El Primero<br />

Striking 10th<br />

has been<br />

improved and<br />

optimized<br />

compared to<br />

the original<br />

El-Primero<br />

El Primero<br />

36’000 in a<br />

stainless steel<br />

bracelet<br />

in comparison To <strong>The</strong> original el<br />

primero, <strong>The</strong> new sTriking 10Th has been<br />

improved and opTimized enabling <strong>The</strong> greaTer<br />

acceleraTion of movemenT. driven by <strong>The</strong><br />

el primero 4052 b auTomaTic calibre, <strong>The</strong> el<br />

primero sTriking 10Th chronograph comes<br />

in a choice of a limiTed ediTion (500 uniTs)<br />

18-caraT rose gold or sTainless sTeel 42 mm<br />

case.<br />

63


feature<br />

In comparison to the original El Primero, the<br />

new Striking 10th has been improved and optimized<br />

enabling greater acceleration in the<br />

movement. Driven by the El Primero 4052<br />

B automatic calibre, the El Primero Striking<br />

10th chronograph comes in a choice of a limited<br />

edition (500 units) 18-carat rose gold or<br />

stainless steel 42 mm case. <strong>The</strong> heart of the<br />

El Primero beats at 36,000 vibrations per hour<br />

and the hands make ten jumps per second, a<br />

particularly stunning technical feat.<br />

A silver sunray-brushed dial features circular<br />

satin-brushed zones for the rose gold version.<br />

Both the stainless steel model and rose gold<br />

model also feature three counters. For the<br />

stainless steel version, these come in subtle<br />

shades of blue and grey, while the rose gold<br />

version features three anthracite counters.<br />

<strong>The</strong> faceted hands and hour-markers coated<br />

with Superluminova are rhodium-plated on<br />

steel models and gold-plated on the rose gold<br />

references. <strong>The</strong> distinctive 1/10th of a second<br />

indication is clearly marked off by the dedicated<br />

chronograph hand. <strong>The</strong> movement is<br />

also elegantly finished with an oscillating<br />

weight decorated with a Côtes de Genève pattern.<br />

Exuding exclusivity and power, the El Primero<br />

Striking 10th is for those of the same nature,<br />

the perceptive few who appreciate the<br />

past while looking toward the future. With a<br />

timeless, attention-to-detail design and substance<br />

unlike any other, this new El Primero<br />

is a worthy addition to a famed heritage.<br />

64<br />

3Left:<br />

Awards the<br />

El-Primero has<br />

collected over<br />

the years<br />

6 From Top:<br />

<strong>The</strong> El-Primero<br />

Stricking 1969<br />

6Bottom:<br />

<strong>The</strong> original<br />

El-Primero<br />

movement &<br />

movement<br />

assembling at<br />

the Factory


CeleBrity & WatCHes<br />

78<br />

Jesse mCCartney – Panerai<br />

Singer/actor Jesse McCartney has decided to join<br />

the social media bandwagon by using his Twitter<br />

account to announce the completion of his<br />

highly anticipated fourth solo album. <strong>The</strong> first<br />

single, apparently to be named Shake, will be on<br />

airwaves sometime in September this year. <strong>The</strong><br />

20 year old multi-talented artist, who received a<br />

Grammy nomination for co-writing the hit Leona<br />

Lewis single Bleeding Love, has yet to announce<br />

the title of the album. Jesse McCartney wears a<br />

Panerai.<br />

ello – taG Heuer<br />

Singer-songwriter Ello was recently<br />

spotted at a TAG Heuer party at Plaza<br />

Senayan, marking the kick-off of<br />

their four-day exhibition. Leading his<br />

band to a set list of his best songs, the<br />

crowd gathered around the atrium<br />

to witness one of Indonesia’s finest<br />

in action. Currently working on his<br />

fourth album this year, Ello fondly<br />

wore a Monaco LS that evening.<br />

Blake lively – CHanel<br />

Unlike her role as the rebellious party girl<br />

Serena Van der Woodsen on television’s<br />

Gossip Girl, Blake Lively was actually quite<br />

the overachiever during her actual high<br />

school days. Lively, who went to school<br />

in California, was a member of the school<br />

choir, class president and cheerleader.<br />

Though she left school for awhile to star in<br />

her breakout role of Bridget, on <strong>The</strong> Sisterhood<br />

of the Traveling Pants, she returned<br />

just in time to finish her senior year. Blake<br />

Lively, on screen and in real life, wears a<br />

Chanel.<br />

Jason statHam – Panerai<br />

No matter how many bad reviews the movie<br />

received prior to its commercial release,<br />

numbers speak for themselves when Jason<br />

Statham’s new movie <strong>The</strong> Expendables hit<br />

number one on the US Box Office charts.<br />

easily beating out Julia Roberts’ highly anticipated<br />

movie Eat, Pray, Love, Statham,<br />

joins two of the biggest names in action<br />

film, Sylvester Stallone and Jet Li, in the<br />

two-part movie as Lee Christmas, a former<br />

British-American S.A.S solider. Jason<br />

Statham wears a Panerai.<br />

taylor lautner – iWC<br />

Thanks to the phenomenal success of the Twilight Saga franchise, actor<br />

Taylor Lautner is now one of Hollywood’s most successful young actors.<br />

Lautner, who also became a junior world champion in martial arts<br />

when he was twelve years old, recently won Favorite Breakout Movie<br />

Actor at the People’s Choice Awards and Favorite Movie Actor at the<br />

Kids Choice Awards. Taylor wears IWC.<br />

roBin Williams – iWC<br />

Writers often hate it when actors<br />

go off script. This was not the<br />

case however when it involved<br />

seasoned actor and comedian<br />

Robin Williams. Since his early<br />

days as alien Mork on the hit 1978<br />

TV show Mork and Mindy, writers<br />

would deliberately leave gaps<br />

in the script, allowing Williams to<br />

improvise. <strong>The</strong>se days, Williams<br />

is busy with his latest stand-up<br />

comedy act dubbed Weapons of<br />

Self Destruction. Robin Williams<br />

wears a IWC.<br />

roBin tHiCke – Cartier<br />

With a vocalist mother and actor<br />

father, Alan Thicke from the TV series<br />

Growing Pains, it was inevitable<br />

that singer Robin Thicke would have<br />

a taste of his own stardom. Having<br />

spent his childhood listening to music<br />

and teaching himself the piano,<br />

Thicke recorded his debut album, A<br />

Beautiful Day, selling 59,000 copies.<br />

His second album, <strong>The</strong> Evolution of<br />

Robin Thicke, sold 20,000 copies in<br />

its first week alone. Thicke is the first<br />

white artist in over twenty years to<br />

top the US R&B charts. Robin Thicke<br />

wears Cartier.<br />

emma Watson – CHanel<br />

When one hits mega-stardom, it<br />

seems every bit of information<br />

causes a buzz. For Harry Potter<br />

actress, Emma Watson, apparently<br />

a simple haircut can cause a<br />

commotion. Her new pixie hairdo,<br />

which she had apparently wanted<br />

since she was 16 years old, was<br />

debuted in early August and has<br />

earned strong opinions from millions<br />

of fans. Her own father, apparently,<br />

told her she looked like a<br />

boy. Claiming it was the most liberating<br />

thing, Watson is enjoying<br />

time to herself now that the last installment<br />

of the Harry Potter series<br />

has ended. Emma Watson wears<br />

Chanel.<br />

79

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