Roger Dubuis - The Time Place
Roger Dubuis - The Time Place
Roger Dubuis - The Time Place
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TAG<br />
HeueR<br />
Celebrates<br />
years<br />
150<br />
TUDOR<br />
Returns To<br />
<strong>The</strong> Spotlight<br />
#26<br />
Introducing<br />
<strong>Roger</strong><br />
<strong>Dubuis</strong><br />
ZeNITH’S<br />
El Primero<br />
Strikes Back
welcoMe note<br />
6<br />
T<br />
o open, I would like to personally<br />
announce and invite all of our<br />
distinguished customers to visit<br />
the most recent addition to our<br />
<strong>The</strong> <strong>Time</strong> <strong>Place</strong> family, our Pacific<br />
<strong>Place</strong> boutique. It is interesting<br />
that despite the major expansion of our company’s<br />
retail network, encompassing IN<strong>Time</strong>, TAG<br />
Heuer, Chanel, Cartier, Urban Icon, Fossil and<br />
Watch<strong>Time</strong> International, that we are only now<br />
opening the fourth <strong>The</strong> <strong>Time</strong> <strong>Place</strong>.<br />
In fact, <strong>The</strong> <strong>Time</strong> <strong>Place</strong> is meant to be something<br />
quite unique and a true destination for the<br />
timepiece fan. To paraphrase an old cliche, “if<br />
you can’t do something great, better not do it at<br />
all.” We have worked hard on developing internal<br />
standards that can put us in the category of<br />
“world class” service. This is a continual process<br />
and we are doing our utmost to ensure that each<br />
store has the best products, the best brands and,<br />
most of all, the best teams to serve you. We believe<br />
that the new boutique will certainly live up<br />
to those high standards.<br />
In keeping with the theme of great brands, this<br />
edition focuses on commemorating the history of<br />
TAG Heuer and Chopard, both of whom are celebrating<br />
their 150th anniversaries. In addition,<br />
we have an interesting article about how some<br />
brands in the timepiece industry are doing their<br />
part to help save the environment.<br />
We hope you enjoy this edition and anxiously<br />
await your comments on the new boutique as<br />
well as any other ideas you have on how we can<br />
serve you even better.<br />
Irwan Danny Mussry<br />
Editor-In-Chief and Publisher
8<br />
26<br />
06 welcoMe note<br />
cover FeATUre<br />
36 tAG HeUeR<br />
TAG Heuer takes a swing<br />
at its 150th anniversary<br />
with the pendulum.<br />
<strong>The</strong><br />
<strong>Time</strong> <strong>Place</strong><br />
INDONESIA<br />
FeATUre<br />
42 cHAnel<br />
Marine expedition<br />
A new version of the J12 is making waves.<br />
44 cHoPARD<br />
Great Machines & Playful creatures<br />
Glitz and great machines combine as<br />
Chopard hits a milestone.<br />
48 DIoR<br />
Triple Threat<br />
Dior’s 2010-2011 collection takes a<br />
feminine direction.<br />
50 RoleX<br />
Submarine emerald<br />
Rolex takes green to a new level with<br />
a new Submariner.<br />
53 RoGeR DUBUIS<br />
enduring Identity<br />
A newcomer shows that greatness need<br />
not take much time.<br />
62 ZenItH<br />
<strong>The</strong> el-Primero Strikes Back<br />
Zenith strikes a blow for great watch making<br />
with its newest El Primero piece.<br />
72 MInUteS of cAlIBRe<br />
carl cunanan<br />
How Tudor is returning to the spotlight.<br />
INTervIeW<br />
GIUlIo PAPI<br />
When Intricacy Becomes an Art Form<br />
reGULAr coLUMNS<br />
10 SocIetY<br />
25 InDUStRY newS<br />
56 PHoto SHoot<br />
78 celeBRItIeS<br />
10<br />
16<br />
contentS<br />
44<br />
42<br />
the time <strong>Place</strong> Magazine, edition 26.<br />
All rights reserved, copyright 2010 by PT Komunikasi Perkasa International<br />
Reproduction in whole or part without permission is prohibited<br />
editor-In-chief and Publisher: Irwan Danny Mussry<br />
Managing editor: Matthew Mendelsohn<br />
Associate Managing editor: Shannon Hartono<br />
Production Manager: Shinta Hukom<br />
contributors: Astrid Natasastra, Christine Terrisse, Carl Cunanan, Liza Sani, Andini Haryani<br />
Art Director: Noni Soeparman<br />
contributing Photographers: Iswanto Soerjanto, Pujiono, Agus Pakan<br />
for Advertising Inquiries:<br />
Please contact Anindita Maharupini at anindita.maharupini@time.co.id or +62 21 522 8182<br />
To receive a free copy of <strong>The</strong> <strong>Time</strong> <strong>Place</strong> Magazine at your home or office,<br />
Please contact us at subscription@time.co.id or +62 21 522 8182<br />
<strong>The</strong> <strong>Time</strong> <strong>Place</strong>, Plaza Senayan:<br />
Plaza Senayan, Level 1 #125, Jakarta, tel: +62 21 572 5759<br />
<strong>The</strong> <strong>Time</strong> <strong>Place</strong>, Plaza Indonesia:<br />
Plaza Indonesia, Level 1 #165, Jakarta, tel: +62 21 310 7715<br />
<strong>The</strong> <strong>Time</strong> <strong>Place</strong>, Pacific <strong>Place</strong>:<br />
Pacific <strong>Place</strong>, Ground Floor #12A-B, Jakarta, tel: +62 21 5140 2776<br />
<strong>The</strong> <strong>Time</strong> <strong>Place</strong>, Tunjungan Plaza 4:<br />
Tunjungan Plaza 4, Level UG # 14-16, Surabaya, tel: +62 31 532 7991<br />
www.thetimeplace.co.id<br />
18<br />
36<br />
50
SocIetY<br />
10<br />
1 2 3 4<br />
5 6<br />
7 8 9 10<br />
A Musical Tribute<br />
<strong>The</strong> <strong>Time</strong> <strong>Place</strong> recently held a special<br />
party to mark the launch of Audemars<br />
Piguet’s limited edition Quincy Jones<br />
Millenary timepiece. During the event,<br />
composer Andi Rianto, was presented<br />
with one of the limited editions watches<br />
in appreciation of his contribution to<br />
the Indonesian music scene. Andi then<br />
played a short medley of Quincy Jones<br />
hits for the gathering of VIP customers<br />
and media.<br />
1. Mr. & Mrs. Jones Djati Sasmito 2. Tisa Wiranata 3. Grace Herosav & Michael 4. Mr. & Mrs. Jacky Mussry 5. Chossy Latu 6. Julie Chandra, Melly Chandra & Walid Birak<br />
7. Taufik Hidayat 8. Dewi Ifo & Alfia Setiawan 9. Mr. & Mrs. Indra Bakrie 10. Irwan D. Mussry, Michael Dong & Andi Rianto.
SocIetY<br />
12<br />
1<br />
3<br />
6 7<br />
4<br />
2<br />
5
8<br />
11 12<br />
9 10<br />
<strong>Time</strong> for a Road Trip<br />
Last June, Jaeger-LeCoultre and <strong>The</strong> <strong>Time</strong> <strong>Place</strong><br />
held their third annual VIP road show dinner in<br />
collaboration with Horomundi. This year, the<br />
Jakarta dinner was held at Shangri-La Hotel’s fine<br />
Italian restaurant, Rosso, while in Surabaya, the<br />
exclusive gathering was held at the ballroom of the<br />
Shangri-La Hotel. Over 180 guests attended in total<br />
for the two events to enjoy cocktails and dinner<br />
while viewing the 2010 collection by the famed<br />
manufacture. Patrick Boutellier, Managing Director<br />
of Jaeger-LeCoultre South East Asia was on hand<br />
for the event, accompanied by commentator and<br />
connoisseur Ng Tjeng Jaw from Horomundi.<br />
13 14 15<br />
1. George Alamsyah, Robby Alamsyah, Liem Swee King & Alex 2. Irwan D. Mussry & Sugiharto Santosa 3. Noel Arbianto 4. Mr. & Mrs. William 5.<br />
Annie Adjam & Tisa Wiranata 6. Nomura & John 7. Mr. & Mrs. Ruddy Susanto, Anton Harsono & William M 8. Budi Santoso Gunardi & Michelle Quan<br />
9. Patrick Boutellier, J. R. Radjimin, Irwan D. Mussry 10. 2010 SIHH Novelties on display 11. Wawan Rajamin & Daughter 12. Mr. & Mrs. Hendra<br />
Joewono 13. Ivan S. Hartono & Yulia Hunjaya 14. Mr. & Mrs. Jos Mardanus 15. Mr. & Mrs. Hendriadi Wachid<br />
13
SocIetY<br />
4<br />
14<br />
1 2<br />
A Round of Golf<br />
Corum, together with <strong>The</strong> <strong>Time</strong> <strong>Place</strong> and a handful<br />
of other prestigious brand names, supported a<br />
golf event, held by the Indonesian Chambers of<br />
Commerce and Industry West Europe Committee<br />
(KIKEB) at Rancamaya Golf Club and Resort. <strong>The</strong><br />
Minister of Industry, Mr. M. S. Hidayat, Chairman<br />
of KIKEB, Mr. Maxi Gunawan, and the Ambassador<br />
of the European Union, Mr. Julian Wilson, were all<br />
on hand at the event together with Indonesia’s<br />
2009 Miss Tourism, Ms. Andara Rainy Ayudini. <strong>The</strong><br />
Minister of Culture and Tourism, Mr. Jero Wacik,<br />
presented Mr. Kokorjadi Chandra with a Corum<br />
Admiral’s Cup as a lucky draw prize.<br />
3<br />
1. John Praseto, Hayono Isman, Iman Hilmansah & Reza Abidin 2. Maxi Gunawan & Iwan Chandra 3. Ian Robert, Ilham Habibi & John Salvin 4. Rohyanto,<br />
Jero Wacik & Nunus 5. Rudi Borgenheimer, Andara Rainy Ayudini, H.E. Julian Wilson.<br />
5
SocIetY<br />
16<br />
1<br />
4 5<br />
6 7 8<br />
9<br />
1. Deborah Iskandar 2. Mr. & Mrs. Hotma Sitompoel 3. Special performance by Ello 4. Rifat Sungkar, Sissy Prescillia & Scott Beckwith 5. Irwan D. Mussry & Soetikno<br />
Soedarjo 6. Paul F. Lie 7. Julie Estelle 8. Malik Bawazier & Yuni Soediro 9. Joelle Sassoon & Justin Cohen<br />
2<br />
Celebrating 150 years<br />
of Heritage<br />
Earlier this year, TAG Heuer and <strong>Time</strong><br />
International kick – started a series of four<br />
exclusive exhibitions, in commemoration<br />
of the brand’s 150th anniversary. <strong>The</strong><br />
opening cocktail event was held at Plaza<br />
Senayan’s atrium, featuring a special<br />
musical performance by Ello, one of<br />
Indonesia’s best solo male artists. Guests<br />
were led by the bubbly, Melissa Karim.<br />
<strong>The</strong> fun-filled exhibition which offered<br />
daily fashion shows, a live DJ and games<br />
– started immediately after the opening<br />
cocktail and lasted for four days.<br />
3
society<br />
18<br />
1 2<br />
5<br />
Country Style<br />
Chanel’s seasonal fashion shows<br />
are always among the most widely<br />
anticipated social events of the<br />
year. For the Spring Summer 2010<br />
season, Chanel created a barnyard<br />
theme inspired by French peasants<br />
of earlier days. More than 300<br />
attendees witnessed models<br />
walking down a unique hay and<br />
wood catwalk showing off this<br />
season’s risque collections.<br />
3 4<br />
7 8 9<br />
6<br />
10<br />
13 14 15<br />
11 12<br />
16 17 18<br />
1-5. <strong>The</strong> looks of Chanel Spring Summer 2010 6. Michelle Sassoon & Dian Muljadi 7. Mr. & Mrs. Bambang Rachmadi 8. VIP front row seating<br />
9. Ria Juwita & Isabel Jahja 10. Agam Riadi & Sebastian Gunawan 11. Lena Darmawang, Lilianti, Henny Sugiharto, Swanny S 12. Juni Sudiro 13. Mr.<br />
& Mrs. Dimple Ramchandani 14. Amanda & Irma Hutabarat 15. Michelle Sassoon, Nadia, Victor Sassoon & Loemongga 16. Ivan Gunawan & Desy<br />
Ratnasari 17. Jania Mulam & Manisa Keswani 18. Sarah Moerad Oestara & Cecile W<br />
19
society<br />
20<br />
1 2 3 4<br />
5<br />
6 7 8 9<br />
Turning Three<br />
Leading men’s lifestyle and fashion<br />
magazine DaMan celebrated their<br />
its anniversary at Buddha Bar with<br />
Tudor and <strong>The</strong> <strong>Time</strong> <strong>Place</strong> among<br />
the main sponsors of the exciting<br />
event. MTV VJ Utt, along with<br />
publisher Ronald Liem were on<br />
hand to lead the event. Singer and<br />
crowd pleaser Chris Salvatore was<br />
flown in to perform for the elite<br />
crowd.<br />
1. Mr. & Mrs. Wahyu Nugroha 2. Patrice Egron & Family 3. Suhaka Nordin 4. Juana Rorimpandey & Aline Andita 5. MTV VJ Utt, Eugene Wong, Ryan<br />
Masao, Andrea Risjad & Ronald Liem 6. Ike V Beekum & Salome Dacey 7. Michelle & Denisa Suwandhi 8. Christina Djaja, Gladys Suwandhi & Peter<br />
Colman 9. Mr. & Mrs. Ferdy Hasan
society<br />
22<br />
1 2 3 4<br />
Nautical<br />
Adventures<br />
Swiss watchmaker IWC together<br />
with <strong>The</strong> <strong>Time</strong> <strong>Place</strong> treated their<br />
special guests to an exclusive<br />
preview of their 2010 novelties at<br />
Vin+, located at Plaza Senayan’s<br />
Arcadia building. Hosted by <strong>The</strong><br />
<strong>Time</strong> <strong>Place</strong>’s very own Irwan Danny<br />
Mussry together with Goris Verburg,<br />
General Manager of IWC South East<br />
Asia, the event was attended by over<br />
140 guests.<br />
5 6<br />
7 8 9 9<br />
1. Sugiharto Santosa & Sydney 2. Peter Hendry & Kennis Yam 3. Serene & Ted Sulisto 4. IWC’s Collection during the event 5. Meitha Anton 6. Joe Slaglan, Ade<br />
Andrini, Irwan D. Mussy, Taufik Hidayat 7. Virnie Ismail, Indra Brasco & Mona Ratuliu 8. Yuti Okta & Intan Febriana 9. Goris Verbug
society<br />
24<br />
1 2 3<br />
4 5<br />
Audemars<br />
Piguet Comes<br />
to Surabaya<br />
To celebrate Audemars Piguet<br />
timepieces becoming available<br />
in Surabaya for the first time ever<br />
through <strong>The</strong> <strong>Time</strong> <strong>Place</strong> Tunjungan<br />
Plaza, the boutique held a<br />
champagne party for more than<br />
100 VIP customers. On hand to<br />
emcee the event was former Puteri<br />
Indonesia runner-up, Nadia<br />
Mulya.<br />
6 7 8<br />
1. Erni & Rizal 2. Mr. & Mrs. Ivan Susanto Hartono 3. Mr. & Mrs. Herman 4. Johanes & Patria 5. Irina Damayanti, Sylvi Mutiara, Virgorina & Arlia Renasvati<br />
6. Mr. Soegiarto 7. Nicholas Pramono, Jos Mardanus, Michael Dong 8. Koesprijono<br />
A Plastiki<br />
ADVeNtURe<br />
IWC SupportS a<br />
Ground-BreakInG<br />
envIromental InItIatIve<br />
IWC Schaffhausen is one of the most active<br />
timepiece companies in the industry<br />
in backing environmental projects. Aside<br />
from striving to be the first Carbon Neutral<br />
timepiece company, IWC has also worked on<br />
a number of other initiatives including the<br />
Plastiki Expedition.<br />
4<strong>The</strong> Plastiki<br />
Adventure Ecology<br />
logo engraved on the<br />
case back<br />
4Ingenieur Automatic<br />
Mission Earth Edition<br />
“Adventure Ecology”<br />
Recently, a one of a kind Platinum Ingenieur<br />
Automatic Mission Earth Edition “Adventure<br />
Ecology” was auctioned off to the highest bidder<br />
for 30,800 Euro, with all proceeds going<br />
toward funding the expedition of the same<br />
name. <strong>The</strong> Plastiki is an 18-metre catamaran<br />
that travelled across the Pacific Ocean and<br />
was outfitted with solar panels, wind turbines<br />
iNDUstRy NeWs<br />
and bicycle-powered electricity generators.<br />
<strong>The</strong> barge was built to raise awareness<br />
of progressive ideas that help fight<br />
against environmental pollution.<br />
For their voyage, the members of the Plastiki<br />
were each equipped with a stainless<br />
steel IWC Ingenieur Automatic, limited to<br />
1,000 pieces. To commemorate the Plastiki<br />
expedition, the stainless steel case back<br />
is engraved with the Plastiki logo, making<br />
the timepiece an instant and highly<br />
sought after collectors item.<br />
Water-resistant to 120 metres, the case features<br />
protective shoulders for the crown<br />
and houses the IWC-manufactured 80110<br />
calibre, containing a soft-iron inner case<br />
to shield it against magnetic fields and a<br />
shock absorption system as protection<br />
against impact. As with the Plastiki expedition<br />
itself, IWC’s “Adventure Ecology”<br />
edition is equipped to take on even the<br />
harshest conditions.<br />
25
iNDUstRy NeWs<br />
Flying<br />
HiGH<br />
Ever since Breitling launched the<br />
Navitimer with its navigational<br />
slide rule bezel, they have been<br />
known for their professional pilot watches.<br />
This year, injecting cutting-edge electronics<br />
into the famous circular slide rule bezel<br />
for handling essential calculations for airborne<br />
navigation, Breitling has developed<br />
a worthy quartz successor to its pilot watch<br />
heritage in the new Chronospace.<br />
<strong>The</strong> Chronospace employs a number of<br />
functions perfect for the pilot including<br />
a 1/100th of a second chronograph with<br />
split times, coordinated universal time<br />
(UTC), perpetual calendar, 24-hour military<br />
time, alarm, countdown timer and a<br />
dual time zone display with independent<br />
alarm. <strong>The</strong> movement is not only COSC<br />
chronometer-certified but features Breitling’s<br />
famous SuperQuartz movement,<br />
ten times more accurate than an ordinary<br />
quartz movement.<br />
<strong>The</strong> dial features a traditional central hour,<br />
minutes and seconds hand with luminous<br />
hour-markers and a dual digital LCD read-<br />
26<br />
BreItlInG<br />
takeS to the<br />
SkIeS WIth the<br />
ChronoSpaCe<br />
<strong>The</strong> many faces<br />
of the new<br />
Chronospace<br />
out equipped with a backlight and a highperformance<br />
night vision compatible<br />
system, known as NVG for night vision<br />
goggles. All functions are controlled by<br />
analog-digital pushers located at 2 and<br />
4 o’clock. <strong>The</strong> star-shaped bezel makes<br />
it easy to operate the turning of circular<br />
rack-and-pinion mounted side rule. For<br />
those worried about missing their alarm,<br />
this watch has the capability to reach 90<br />
decibels, enough not to be drowned out<br />
while in the cockpit. <strong>The</strong> Chronospace is<br />
available with a sporty perforated rubber<br />
strap, aviator style leather strap or a new<br />
satin-brushed woven steel bracelet for the<br />
retro vintage look.
Showtime with<br />
AUDeMARs<br />
PiGUet<br />
28<br />
StarS joIn the<br />
WatChmaker<br />
to Support<br />
BroadWay CareS<br />
5<br />
1 2<br />
Audemars Piguet is well known for<br />
maintaining a range of charity collaborations<br />
with various celebrities.<br />
<strong>The</strong> most prominent initiative of the company<br />
is the <strong>Time</strong> to Give Foundation,<br />
founded in 2000. <strong>The</strong> brand is also a renowned<br />
patron of the arts and for the<br />
second year in a row, Audemars Piguet<br />
was also the official red carpet sponsor<br />
of the 64th Annual Tony Awards.<br />
Recently, in conjunction with the opening<br />
of its 57th Street flagship boutique<br />
in New York, Audemars Piguet, partnered<br />
with the Tony Awards to hold an auction<br />
to benefit Broadway Cares/Equity Fights<br />
AIDS. <strong>The</strong> Tony Awards, a celebration of the<br />
best in Broadway shows, was the perfect cooperation<br />
that brought out the most gifted<br />
and revered Broadway actors to the forefront<br />
in helping to bring attention to this<br />
4<br />
noble cause. Actors including Meryl Streep,<br />
Hugh Jackman, Sienna Miller and Kristin<br />
Chenoweth personalized a total of twentyseven<br />
Audemars Piguet watches.<br />
As a special highlight, the Audemars Piguet<br />
“Royal Offshore 57th Street” limited edition<br />
watch was designed to commemorate this<br />
New York moment and partnership with<br />
the Tony Awards. A pair of men’s and women’s<br />
Royal Oak Offshore 57th Street watches<br />
signed by Daniel Radcliffe and Scarlett Johansson<br />
along with “Sex and the City” star<br />
Cynthia Nixon’s Lady Royal Oak, and Nathan<br />
Lane’s “Jules Audemars” self-winding chronograph<br />
with 18-karat pink gold case were<br />
each offered on auction.<br />
As part of the Tony Awards sponsorship, the<br />
brand decorated the carpet with eight wall<br />
clocks signed by the nominees for “Best<br />
Musical” and “Best Musical Revival”. <strong>The</strong>se<br />
clocks were auctioned off to benefit Broadway<br />
Cares/Equity Fights AIDS.<br />
1. Nick Cannon<br />
2. Vanessa Williams<br />
3. Morgan Pressel & Cristie Kerr<br />
4. <strong>The</strong> Hugh Jackman personalized watch<br />
5. Meryl Streep’s personalized version<br />
3
iNDUstRy NeWs<br />
30<br />
<strong>The</strong> Grande<br />
Reverso<br />
Duodate 986<br />
Another Award for<br />
JAeGeR-<br />
LecoULtRe<br />
the Grande reverSo<br />
duodate GraBS WatCh<br />
of the year<br />
4<strong>The</strong> opposite<br />
face features<br />
a day and night<br />
indicator<br />
Perhaps no watchmaker has a trophy case as full<br />
as Jaeger-LeCoultre. This prestigious manufacture<br />
has, through its history, perfected the<br />
manufacturing of distinctive and complex movements<br />
and timepieces admired the world over. This past June,<br />
the brand added yet another award as Grande Reverso<br />
986 Duodate was honoured as Watch of the Year in the<br />
€3000-10.000 price range category by 00/24 Horloges<br />
Magazine.<br />
A limited edition in the classic Reverso collection, the<br />
Grande Reverso 986 Duodate was created with a 31.3<br />
mm wide by 52 mm high case produced in only 2000<br />
pieces, 500 pieces in 18k pink gold and an additional<br />
1,500 stainless steel. <strong>The</strong> watch has two faces, the first<br />
of which displays the main time zone with date and seconds<br />
against an intricately designed silver Clou-de-Paris<br />
hobnail pattern standing out against a surrounding vertical<br />
guilloche area.<br />
Swivel the watch back and it reveals an equally beautiful<br />
display inspired by the Art Deco style of the 1930s,<br />
the birth period of the Reverso collection. This dial<br />
features a day and night indicator and<br />
is elegantly accentuated with a<br />
black velvet finish, all powered<br />
by the manually<br />
wound Calibre 986<br />
movement.
iNDUstRy NeWs<br />
One could reasonably equate the Paneristi, the<br />
dedicated community of Panerai fans, with<br />
Harley Davidson Hogs or Grateful Dead Deadheads.<br />
As the largest independent community of luxury<br />
watch enthusiasts on record, Paneristis have a devotion<br />
to their brand unequalled in the industry. <strong>The</strong> club recently<br />
celebrated the 10th anniversary of the launch of<br />
their fan website and forum, Paneristi.com, the ultimate<br />
‘central market’ where Panerai fans share information<br />
and get connected to each other.<br />
In honour of these fans, Panerai recently released the<br />
limited edition Luminor for Paneristi’s Anniversary.<br />
Keeping in mind the most popular features of a Panerai<br />
according to the Paneristi and the guidelines and<br />
preferences expressed by the fan community, the timepiece<br />
comes with a 44mm Luminor case, a diamond-<br />
32<br />
<strong>The</strong> classic and<br />
vintage look<br />
of the PAM360<br />
A special<br />
engraving to<br />
commemorate<br />
the site’s tenth<br />
anniversary<br />
PANeRistis<br />
Rejoice<br />
paneraI releaSeS SpeCIal<br />
pIeCe for panerIStI.Com<br />
annIverSary<br />
like coated case, bezel, bridge and crown, the classic crown-protecting<br />
bridge device and the trademark Panerai classic numerals and large index<br />
markers. <strong>The</strong> watch also uses a special ecru SuperLumiNova to coat the<br />
hands and add to the watch’s vintage look. <strong>The</strong> watch is fitted with an OP I<br />
calibre movement and the case back is engraved with the words “Paneristi.<br />
com Tenth Anniversary”.<br />
<strong>The</strong> launch of this very special 300-piece limited edition watch was announced<br />
on the Paneristi.com forum this summer and almost immediately<br />
sold out. More importantly, the watch was hailed as an important<br />
step in bringing Panerai and its most dedicated followers just a little closer<br />
together.
INDUSTRY NEWS<br />
Beautiful<br />
PoSSESSIoN<br />
34<br />
PIAGET’S ICONIC LINE IS<br />
GIVEN A FRESH NEW FACE<br />
Piaget<br />
Possession<br />
Watch<br />
Today’s cosmopolitan<br />
female is a mix<br />
of many moods;<br />
strong yet feminine, fashionable<br />
yet casual, talented yet<br />
humble, stunning on the red<br />
carpet yet also a head turner<br />
on the street.<br />
Piaget has chosen to appeal to<br />
the multi-faceted female by<br />
selecting Sienna Miller as the<br />
muse for its iconic Possession collection’s<br />
20th anniversary. Not<br />
only is Sienna well known as<br />
an English model, actress and<br />
fashion designer, her signature<br />
style has also crowned<br />
her as a modern fashion icon.<br />
She serves as the Global Ambassador<br />
for International Medical<br />
Corps and is a leading activist in<br />
the Haitian relief effort.<br />
To integrate Sienna into the campaign,<br />
a talented fashion industry team including<br />
legendary photographer Raymond<br />
Meier, regular Vogue contributor, Elissa Santisi,<br />
makeup artist Gucci Westman, noted hair stylist,<br />
Esther Langham and master manicurist, Jin<br />
Soon were enlisted to help in bringing out the<br />
beauty of both Sienna and the iconic Possession<br />
pieces.<br />
<strong>The</strong> campaign takes on three moods, the confident,<br />
strong and feminine woman mood integrated<br />
a black and white outfit with sleek, slim<br />
black leather pants paired with a silky, sleeveless<br />
white top adorned by a Possession necklace,<br />
bracelet and ring in luxurious yellow gold<br />
material.<br />
Sienna Miller<br />
For the more lively look, Sienna appeared full<br />
of life with a more simple attire rounded out<br />
by a Possession timepiece, simple round earrings<br />
and white gold and diamond rings on<br />
each middle finger. Finally, Sienna was pictured<br />
In a more elegant mood with a perfect<br />
little black dress and neatly pulled hair that<br />
showcases the Possession collection beautifully<br />
with its gold diamond double hoop Possession<br />
earrings, pendant with white gold and<br />
fully paved diamonds to the classic diamond<br />
ring. To add a touch of modernity, a white gold<br />
and diamond cuff in circle motif encircled her<br />
arm.<br />
Irrespective of the mood, Piaget’s decision to<br />
choose Miller to embody one of their most<br />
successful jewelry collections will inspire other<br />
woman of today on the image of modern<br />
beauty.
covER fEaTURE<br />
36<br />
TAG Heuer<br />
Pendulum<br />
Cadran Black<br />
TaG HEUER<br />
Celebrating<br />
150 Years of Excellence
TAG Heuer is a brand that is not short of<br />
historical breakthroughs. For a company<br />
who’s name is a little-known acronym<br />
for techniques d’avant garde, (advance<br />
guard or vanguard techniques in French),<br />
invention and precision have always been<br />
hallmarks of the brand. This dedication to<br />
breaking the boundaries of watchmaking has<br />
resulted in the brand’s rapid ascent over the<br />
last four decades in particular. Despite all of<br />
the celebrity ambassadors, the participation<br />
in major automobile racing and golf events<br />
and the other glamour and glitz that goes with<br />
the brand, the highlight is really the product.<br />
Moreover, the last decade has been a “golden<br />
age” of sorts for the brand in developing<br />
groundbreaking products.<br />
An example of such groundbreaking product<br />
is the Monaco V4 watch which was commercially<br />
introduced in 2009 after being initially<br />
introduced into the market as a concept<br />
TAG Heuer<br />
Pendulum<br />
Couronne<br />
Pendulum Eclate<br />
THIS dEdICATION TO bREAkING THE bOuNdARIES<br />
OF WATCHmAkING HAS RESuLTEd IN THE bRANd’S<br />
RAPId ASCENT OVER THE LAST FOuR dECAdES IN<br />
PARTICuLAR.<br />
37
covER fEaTURE<br />
38<br />
dESPITE ALL OF THE CELEbRITy<br />
AmbASSAdORS, THE PARTICIPATION IN<br />
mAjOR AuTOmObILE RACING ANd GOLF<br />
EVENTS ANd THE OTHER GLAmOuR ANd<br />
GLITz THAT GOES WITH THE bRANd, THE<br />
HIGHLIGHT IS REALLy THE PROduCT.<br />
TAG Heuer<br />
Pendulum Cadran<br />
Black
THE TAG HEuER<br />
PENduLum<br />
CONCEPT bEATS AT<br />
43,200 bEATS PER HOuR<br />
(6 HERTz) ANd HAS<br />
mARkEd A NEW ERA IN<br />
WATCH-mAkING.<br />
TAG Heuer<br />
Pendulum<br />
Case Back<br />
39
covER fEaTURE<br />
watch in 2004. <strong>The</strong> remarkable concept watch<br />
was able to substitute traditional pinions and<br />
gear transmission with a belt-driven mechanical<br />
transmission instead and fast became the<br />
one of the most audacious movement designs<br />
in history.<br />
This year, to celebrate their 150th anniversary,<br />
TAG Heuer unveiled the revolutionary watch,<br />
the Pendulum Concept, a concept watch that<br />
completely reinvents the idea of an oscillator.<br />
<strong>The</strong> avant-garde Swiss watchmaker swapped<br />
the traditional hairsprings with magnets, ultimately<br />
creating the first-ever mechanical<br />
movement without a hairspring.<br />
Most mechanical movements involve four<br />
basic operations where energy is generated,<br />
stored, transmitted then regulated. <strong>The</strong> hairspring<br />
has always played a pivotal role in the<br />
regulation system. Now, thanks to an “invisible”<br />
or virtual spring derived from magnets,<br />
the physical coiled strip of fine metal alloy –<br />
better known as the hairspring – is no longer<br />
necessary.<br />
<strong>The</strong> magnetic fields generated are able to provide<br />
alternative oscillations of the balance<br />
wheel and make the pendulum an exceptionally<br />
good timekeeping device due to its<br />
resistance to changes from perturbing forces.<br />
Created by TAG Heuer’s Research & Development<br />
engineers together with Microsystems<br />
research experts at the Integrated Actuators<br />
Laboratory (LAI) over a span of five years,<br />
the TAG Heuer Pendulum Concept beats<br />
at 43,200 beats per hour (6 Hertz) and has<br />
marked a new era in watch-making.<br />
40<br />
Pendulum<br />
Tourbillon<br />
TAG Heuer<br />
Monaco<br />
<strong>The</strong> movement
MINI fEaTURE<br />
42<br />
cHaNEL’S<br />
Marine Expedition<br />
THE j12 mARINE IS<br />
LAuNCHEd TO CELEbRATE<br />
THE LINE’S TENTH<br />
ANNIVERSARy
In conjunction with the 10th anniversary<br />
of one of their most popular line<br />
of watches, the J12, Chanel launched<br />
the J12 Marine watch, an extremely sporty,<br />
elegant, high fashion-worthy timepiece.<br />
Unique for Chanel, the J12 Marine is an actual<br />
diving watch that is water resistant to<br />
300 metres in both the rubber matte bracelet<br />
and the case.<br />
Over the summer, with the launch of the<br />
J12 Marine, the watch’s own mini film circulated<br />
over the net showcasing the incomparable<br />
style of the timepiece, featuring the<br />
watch at the depths of the ocean floor.<br />
<strong>The</strong> carefully crafted watch is not made<br />
to just withstand the water, but rather to<br />
breathe in the water. <strong>The</strong> J12 Marine is<br />
<strong>The</strong> J12 Marine<br />
is available in<br />
Blue, White and<br />
Black<br />
SuPPORTEd by A CAREFuLLy CRAFTEd<br />
ENGRAVEd STEEL bACk, A SANd-bLASTEd<br />
CERAmIC ANd STEEL CASE, A POLISHEd ANd<br />
SATIN FINISH ARdILLON buCkLE ENGRAVEd<br />
WITH THE CHANEL LOGO, NOTHING IS<br />
COmPROmISEd.<br />
<strong>The</strong> J12 Marine<br />
was crafted to<br />
breathe in the<br />
water<br />
available in white with a white bezel (38mm),<br />
black with a blue bezel (38 and 42 mm),<br />
or black with a black bezel (38mm). Supported<br />
by a carefully crafted engraved steel<br />
back, a sand-blasted ceramic and steel case,<br />
a polished and satin finish ardillon buckle<br />
engraved with the Chanel logo, nothing is<br />
compromised. <strong>The</strong> self-winding watch offers<br />
a 42-hour power reserve and is highly shock<br />
and scratch resistant. A nautical instrument<br />
in itself, the J12 Marine watch is everything<br />
you could ask for in a watch and more.<br />
43
fEaTURE<br />
44<br />
GREaT MacHINES<br />
& Playful Creatures<br />
CHOPARd WELCOmES<br />
ITS 150TH ANNIVERSARy<br />
WITH A VARIEd<br />
COLLECTION<br />
150 years and numerous mind-blowing collections later, Louis-<br />
Ulysse Chopard would undoubtedly be very proud to see how<br />
his baby has grown and developed into a giant in the industry.<br />
Celebrating its 150th anniversary in 2010, the Chopard brand is still<br />
pervaded by the spirit instilled by its founder and nurtured by a blend<br />
of fine hand craftsmanship and daring technical developments.<br />
<strong>The</strong> L.U.C 150<br />
“All In One”<br />
bearing the<br />
Calibre 4QTE<br />
<strong>The</strong> L.U.C<br />
Louis-Ulysse<br />
- <strong>The</strong> Tribute<br />
watch bears<br />
the L.U.C<br />
Calibre EHG
L.U.C Calibre<br />
1TRM L.U.C<br />
Engine One<br />
Tourbillon<br />
foUR NEW caLIbRES<br />
To coMMEMoRaTE<br />
THE 150TH YEaR<br />
Over time, Chopard has become known for<br />
two dueling strengths, its reputation as a master<br />
jeweler and a more recent recognition as a<br />
fine watch manufacturer and movement developer<br />
that has been fostered primarily over<br />
the last two decades. To celebrate its 150th<br />
anniversary, Chopard marks its milestone<br />
by unveiling four new proprietary mechanical<br />
movements and timepieces designed,<br />
developed, fine-tuned and produced by the<br />
Chopar d Manufacture in Fleurier.<br />
<strong>The</strong> L.U.C Calibre EHG – L.U.C Louis-Ulysse –<br />
<strong>The</strong> Tribute is a tribute to the company’s dedication<br />
to fine watchmaking. Developed as<br />
collaboration with the Geneva Watchmaking<br />
School, this mechanical hand-wound movement<br />
fascinates at a cadence of 21,600 vibrations<br />
per hour and is endowed with an 80hour<br />
power reserve. <strong>The</strong> L.U.C Calibre EHG is<br />
chronometer-certified by the COSC and also<br />
bears the prestigious Poinçon-de-Genève<br />
quality hallmark. Inspired by a pocket-watch,<br />
but reinterpreted as a contemporary object,<br />
the L.U.C Louis-Ulysse – <strong>The</strong> Tribute preserves<br />
a century and a half of Chopard’s horological<br />
heritage.<br />
Expanding on the theme, the L.U.C Calibre<br />
4TQE is composed of 516 parts and its<br />
multi-complication mechanical handwound<br />
movement houses four barrels<br />
ensuring a seven-day power reserve.<br />
This movement is also COSC-certified and is<br />
equipped to Poinçon-de-Genève standards<br />
the L.U.C Calibre 4TQE shows the hours,<br />
minutes, small seconds on a tourbillon and<br />
also amazes with a perpetual calendar with<br />
24-hour indication, day of the week, date<br />
aperture, month, leap year, power reserve,<br />
24-hour indication, equation of time, sunrise<br />
and sunset times and moon phases. This<br />
achievement of fitting so many complications<br />
in one watch shows how far the manufacture<br />
has come.<br />
CELEbRATING<br />
ITS 150TH<br />
ANNIVERSARy IN 2010,<br />
THE CHOPARd bRANd<br />
IS STILL PERVAdEd by<br />
THE SPIRIT INSTILLEd<br />
by ITS FOuNdER ANd<br />
NuRTuREd by A<br />
bLENd OF FINE HANd<br />
CRAFTSmANSHIP ANd<br />
dARING TECHNICAL<br />
dEVELOPmENTS.<br />
<strong>The</strong> L.U.C Calibre 1TRM – L.U.C Engine One<br />
Tourbillon is distinguished by an innovative<br />
design inspired by the automotive industry. In<br />
reference to the world of fine cars, the “engine<br />
block”, featuring a reamed and sloping plate,<br />
is engraved with the name “Chopard”. <strong>The</strong><br />
COSC certified L.U.C Calibre 1TRM movement<br />
is mounted on shock-absorbing “silent<br />
blocks” and held in place by three lever-arms<br />
carved out of the case middle. Designed, developed<br />
and produced by Chopard, the timepiece<br />
beats at a cadence of 28,800 vibrations<br />
per hour and boasts a 60-hour power reserve.<br />
<strong>The</strong> L.U.C<br />
1937<br />
45
fEaTURE<br />
<strong>The</strong> Animal<br />
World watches<br />
<strong>The</strong> power-reserve display at 12 o’clock is positioned<br />
opposite the tourbillon bridge at 6<br />
o’clock, shaped like a brake disc.<br />
<strong>The</strong> L.U.C Calibre 1.010 – L.U.C 1937 represents<br />
a significant development linked to its<br />
suitability to industrial-scale production. This<br />
mechanical self-winding movement meets<br />
the most demanding market standards of performance,<br />
namely those of the COSC and the<br />
Chronofiable tests. Representing the industrial<br />
wing of Chopard Manufacture and incorporating<br />
207 parts, the L.U.C Calibre 1.010 is<br />
distinguished by its crown at 4 o’clock, along<br />
with a 60-hour power reserve, 31 rubies and a<br />
frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour.<br />
HaPPY DIaMoNDS<br />
While the new movements are a major focus<br />
of the 150th anniversary, jewelry pieces take<br />
a co-starring role. In 1976, Chopard unveiled<br />
the now-famed Happy Diamonds collection<br />
to the world, designed by the talented Ronald<br />
Kurowski. <strong>The</strong> incredible success of this collection,<br />
which has been offered many times<br />
since is now forever inextricably linked to the<br />
Chopard name.<br />
This year, to mark its 150th anniversary, Chopard<br />
also launched a major new Happy Diamonds<br />
collection with <strong>The</strong> Animal World<br />
46<br />
THE ANImALS ARE<br />
mAdE OF SHINING<br />
dIAmONdS PLACEd WITH<br />
THEIR RESPECTIVE LIVING<br />
ENVIRONmENTS. THE<br />
POLAR bEAR IS quIETLy<br />
NESTLEd IN THE ICE<br />
WORLd. THE mONkEy<br />
LIVES HAPPILy IN THE<br />
juNGLE ANd THE PENGuIN<br />
HAS ITS mATES TO kEEP IT<br />
COmPANy.<br />
watch. Following the traditional style of Chopard<br />
Happy Diamonds watches in terms of<br />
case shape and free floating diamonds inside<br />
the watch, polar bears, monkeys and penguins<br />
are featured in a most beautiful way.<br />
<strong>The</strong> animals are made of shining diamonds<br />
and placed with backgrounds of their respective<br />
living environments. <strong>The</strong> polar bear is<br />
quietly nestled in the ice world. <strong>The</strong> monkey<br />
lives happily in the jungle and the penguin<br />
has its mates to keep it company. <strong>The</strong>se adorable<br />
themes make for a playful, fun and precious<br />
collection.<br />
At first sight, one would consider this lady<br />
wristwatch collection as jewelry bracelets<br />
rather than timepieces. Its full diamonds<br />
design is eye-catching and the pentagoncut<br />
diamond plus other dazzling totally<br />
weigh 21.48 carats and the diamonds on<br />
the round dial weigh 2.70 carats making<br />
the watch far from modest. Housed inside<br />
the case is the hand-winding mechanical<br />
movement. <strong>The</strong> platinum arc-shaped<br />
bracelet strap is encrusted with 80 rectangle-cut<br />
diamonds and 290 round-cut diamonds.<br />
<strong>The</strong> collection is really a collection of<br />
artworks. <strong>The</strong> “Polar Bear” wristwatch<br />
is crafted from 18k platinum. <strong>The</strong> dial is<br />
made from the mother-of-pearl while the<br />
animal is fully paved with diamonds. <strong>The</strong><br />
watch bezel and crown are also encrusted<br />
with dazzling diamonds yet is waterproof<br />
to 30 metres.<br />
<strong>The</strong> “Monkey” of the collection is crafted<br />
from 18k rose gold with the dynamic diamond<br />
monkey on the MOP dial and golden<br />
satin strap. <strong>The</strong> “Penguin” is also crafted<br />
from 18k platinum with a dynamic penguin<br />
on the MOP dial and black stain strap.<br />
<strong>The</strong> other details of the latter two styles are<br />
the same as the polar bear reference.
fEaTURE<br />
48<br />
3Dior Christal<br />
Full Diamonds<br />
3La Mini D<br />
de Dior in Pink<br />
TRIPLE<br />
THREAT<br />
2010 COLLECTION RuNS<br />
THE GAmuT OF dIOR’S<br />
LOOkS
4Dior<br />
Christal<br />
Mysterieuse<br />
38mm<br />
As a watchmaker, Dior’s collections have been known for their<br />
undisputable beauty, which often derive its inspiration from<br />
the concept of refined and elegant couture clothes. <strong>The</strong> brand<br />
has been established on three main pillars, the La D de Dior, the Chiffre<br />
Rouge and the Christal. Each come together this year to make a<br />
spectacular 2010 collection.<br />
PUTTING THE ‘D’ IN DIoR<br />
Ever since its launch in 2003, the La D de Dior, created by talented jewelry<br />
designer Victoire de Castellane, has established itself as the most<br />
whimsical of the brand’s collections. This season, La D de Dior makes<br />
a comeback with a dual personality, a small version in 19mm and a<br />
larger 38mm. <strong>The</strong> La Mini D de Dior “Snow Set” Diamonds is rendered<br />
in white gold and is fitted with a bezel and a crown illuminated by the<br />
play of dazzling diamonds. <strong>The</strong> new dials are designed with all the features<br />
of luxury jewelry including a snow setting, chrysoprase, jade, turquoise<br />
or serpentine, all reminders of the material combination in the<br />
haute joaillerie collections of the house. Meanwhile the 38mm style is<br />
embellished with a black fire opal dial, resulting an iridescent reflection<br />
making it look simply sublime for the modern spirit.<br />
RoUGE To bLack<br />
Another classical watch that makes an unprecedented debut is the<br />
Chiffre Rouge T01. Constructed around a self-winding movement, the<br />
patented Dior 8 Fuseaux Horaires calibre, this unique movement was<br />
born from a collaboration with Swiss watch engineers Orny and Girardin.<br />
Launched in a limited edition of 100 timepieces, the Chiffre Rouge<br />
T01 enables you to read simultaneously on the same disk, not only local<br />
time and eight time zones, but also using a day/night indicator. <strong>The</strong><br />
correction of the time and the time zones is done with a single crown<br />
on the 42 mm steel case. Encompassed by a matte black ceramic bezel,<br />
accented with an iconic pique-de-coton patterned dial with four diamond<br />
indices and with a translucent black sapphire caseback, this is a<br />
truly mysterious and alluring timepiece.<br />
cHRISTaLLIZING DIoR<br />
In recent years, the Christal has served as the champion of the brand.<br />
This year, as a tribute to the brand’s passion for art and the lucky<br />
number of Christian Dior, the Christal 8 watch serves as a new intepre-<br />
tation of the Christal line. Launched in a limited series of just eight<br />
piece in gold and lacquer, the Christal 8 offers the versatility of a jewelry<br />
version with a set bezel or an Art Deco patterned reference.<br />
<strong>The</strong> Christal 8 incorporates a 33mm case and employs an automatic<br />
Elite movement by Zenith. This movement enables the watch owner<br />
to read three items of information on a single index such as local<br />
time, time in eight time zones worldwide, as well as day and night<br />
indications. <strong>The</strong> mechanism contains an oscillating weight inlaid<br />
with a gold leaf.<br />
Mother-of-pearl, sapphire crystal, lacquer, iolites,<br />
tangerine garnets, tsavorites, rubies, citrines,<br />
sapphires and rhodolites each provide<br />
a different theme to the various references.<br />
Through its colors and decorative motifs, each<br />
timepiece makes reference to a style from the<br />
show after which it is named. <strong>The</strong> dial echoes the<br />
subtle detailing on dresses or jackets in tribute to the<br />
seamstresses in the Haute Couture ateliers. Keeping<br />
the watch secured to the wearer’s wrist is a black python<br />
leather strap with a yellow gold ardillon buckle that is fitted<br />
to a black sapphire crystal insert.<br />
mOTHER-OF-PEARL, SAPPHIRE<br />
CRySTAL, LACquER, IOLITES,<br />
TANGERINE GARNETS, TSAVORITES,<br />
RubIES, CITRINES, SAPPHIRES ANd<br />
RHOdOLITES EACH PROVIdE A dIFFERENT<br />
THEmE TO THE VARIOuS REFERENCES.<br />
Chiffre Rouge<br />
in a Khakhi<br />
Fabric Strap<br />
49
feature<br />
50<br />
<strong>The</strong> Rolex<br />
Perpetual<br />
Submarine emerald<br />
a classic shows iTs<br />
green sTreak<br />
Rolex<br />
Submariner<br />
Emerald<br />
Paved Dial<br />
Rolex<br />
Submariner<br />
Emerald<br />
Paved Dial<br />
Originally designed for divers in the<br />
1950s, the Rolex Submariner watch<br />
quickly became a symbol of prosperity<br />
and luxury and has long been one of<br />
the most recognizable watches in the market.<br />
<strong>The</strong> watch has been part of expeditions<br />
both at land and sea, even withstanding<br />
temperatures of 45 degrees below Celsius in<br />
the famous Moana expedition. Having even<br />
appeared in eleven James Bond films, the<br />
Rolex Submariner is a watch that has a love<br />
for action, ready to take on the world. From<br />
London to Paris, San Francisco to New York,<br />
Shanghai to Jakarta, the Submariner has offered<br />
a great reminder.<br />
<strong>The</strong> new Submariner Emerald is a strong example<br />
of such enduring greatness. In 2010,<br />
Rolex has created a new classic in the Oyster<br />
Perpetual Submariner Emerald set with 36<br />
emeralds and 12 diamonds within its unidirectional<br />
rotatable bezel, the Submariner is<br />
an advanced version of the 2003 Green Submariner<br />
version that was released in conjunction<br />
with the model’s 50th anniversary.<br />
<strong>The</strong> colour green, which is strongly associated<br />
with the brand, is not only featured on the<br />
bezel, but also within the dial where eight emeralds<br />
are elegantly set as hour markers. <strong>The</strong><br />
entire case and bracelet is made in 18-carat<br />
white gold, and true to its initial purpose, is<br />
able to withstand the pressure of water to up<br />
to 300 metres or 1,000 feet.<br />
<strong>The</strong> color green, which is sTrongly<br />
associaTed wiTh <strong>The</strong> brand, is noT only<br />
feaTured on <strong>The</strong> bezel, buT also wiThin <strong>The</strong> dial<br />
where eighT emeralds are eleganTly seT as<br />
hour markers. <strong>The</strong> enTire case and braceleT<br />
is made in 18-caraT whiTe gold, and True To<br />
iTs iniTial purpose, is able To wiThsTand <strong>The</strong><br />
pressure of waTer To up To 300 meTers or 1,000<br />
feeT.<br />
Rolex<br />
Submariner<br />
Emerald<br />
Black Dial<br />
51
feature<br />
52<br />
<strong>The</strong> waTch has been<br />
parT of expediTions<br />
boTh aT land and sea,<br />
even wiThsTanding<br />
TemperaTures of 45<br />
degrees below celsius<br />
in <strong>The</strong> famous moana<br />
expediTion. having even<br />
appeared in 11 James bond<br />
films and sTill counTing,<br />
<strong>The</strong> rolex submariner is a<br />
waTch ThaT has a love for<br />
acTion, ready To Take on<br />
<strong>The</strong> world.<br />
Rolex Submariner<br />
Emerald Black Dial<br />
an enduring<br />
Identity<br />
roger dubuis leaves<br />
an undispuTed<br />
legacy in <strong>The</strong><br />
world of luxury<br />
In the so-called ‘old days’, great watch brands became<br />
known generally over time. Because the technologies<br />
involved in fine watchmaking were so advanced, it<br />
could take decades for a new manufacture to start to create<br />
complicated pieces and to become known as a truly fine<br />
watchmaker for these pieces.<br />
Enter the high-speed technology age and much has<br />
changed in the watch industry. Today, great watchmakers<br />
are considered as those who make great timepieces as opposed<br />
to simply those who endure for many years. It is in<br />
this environment that 15-year old brand <strong>Roger</strong> <strong>Dubuis</strong> has<br />
emerged and flourished.<br />
<strong>The</strong> tenacity of Carlos Dias as the founder of <strong>Roger</strong> <strong>Dubuis</strong><br />
has become a hallmark of devotion in the universe of horol-<br />
<strong>Roger</strong> <strong>Dubuis</strong><br />
Manufature<br />
Excalibur<br />
Butterfly<br />
Calendar<br />
53
feature<br />
54<br />
<strong>The</strong> Factory<br />
ogy. Equipped with a well-rounded experience<br />
amassed during his career in the watchmaking<br />
manufacturing and business, his decision to<br />
found his own company in 1995 seemed to be<br />
a natural progression. While the brand started<br />
out with the rather inauspicious SOGEM (Société<br />
Genevoise des Montres) moniker, the<br />
change of the brand identity to <strong>Roger</strong> <strong>Dubuis</strong><br />
seems to have worked wonders in making the<br />
company better recognized.<br />
<strong>The</strong> company’s rise to credibility is founded on<br />
its subtle mix of the tradition and modernity,<br />
seamlessly blended in its collection reflecting<br />
watchmaking culture and the most advanced<br />
technology available. Every <strong>Roger</strong> <strong>Dubuis</strong><br />
timepiece is built to the Poinçon de Geneve<br />
standard, marking a superiority of the movement<br />
and quality of the timepiece.<br />
At the 2011 SIHH, <strong>Roger</strong> <strong>Dubuis</strong> proudly presented<br />
the four most prominent signature<br />
pieces that are the brand’s main pillars; <strong>The</strong><br />
Excalibur, Kingsquare, Easy Diver and Golden<br />
Square.<br />
Choice of material has been an essential part in<br />
every collection, signifying a comittment in applying<br />
new technology and innovation in de-<br />
sign. <strong>The</strong> Excalibur, this year comes in platinum,<br />
marking <strong>Roger</strong> <strong>Dubuis</strong>’ first venture into using<br />
platinum. Exclusively made in a limited quantity<br />
of only 28 units the Excalibur design prowess actually<br />
lies in its distinct features a 45 mm diameter,<br />
wristband secured by the unique triple lugs,<br />
majestic crown guard, fluted bezel and the remarkable<br />
“Grande Complication” movement. <strong>The</strong><br />
latest collection comes in different models, including<br />
the flying tourbillon and rose gold minute<br />
repeater, along with self-winding of double micro<br />
rotor in platinum. <strong>The</strong> five - windows perpetual<br />
calendar, with a manual wind, double flying tourbillon<br />
with differential, tourbillon cages visible<br />
between 4 and 5 o’clock and 7 and 8 o’clock adds<br />
to the innovative design. While the jumping dials<br />
are expressed in Roman numerals, the retrograde<br />
minute dials are in Arabic numerals, in deference<br />
to the company’s unique ability in combining different<br />
cultural influences.<br />
<strong>The</strong> centerpiece of <strong>Roger</strong> <strong>Dubuis</strong>’ international<br />
marketing campaign, with its popular appeal to<br />
factory[1].tif<br />
Excalibur<br />
Automatic<br />
Flying Tourbillon<br />
a wide spectrum of clients, the EasyDiver collection<br />
was first intended to infuse the lines between<br />
aesthetically pleasing watches and the robustness<br />
of a sports watch. For a number of years now, the<br />
EasyDiver, has been proven as a steady companion<br />
for its clients’ many challenging activities,<br />
thanks to its sturdy feature and enduring appeal.<br />
Whether in the self-winding, hours and minutes<br />
in 43 mm diameter, or the chronograph with micro<br />
rotor self-winding, the EasyDiver is marked by<br />
the distinct orange accents on the bezel along with<br />
the rubber accent on the back. For the ladies, a 40<br />
mm version is available in mother-of-pearl dial<br />
and diamond- encrusted accents on the bezel.<br />
<strong>The</strong> KingSquare conjures up images of an endowed<br />
aristocratic shape, a truly remarkable feat<br />
in combining tradition, structural design and innovative<br />
technology, the tourbillon comes in matte<br />
and alligator strap and the hand wound movement<br />
is stamped with the ubiquitous Geneva Seal.<br />
Retaining only the bare necessities, a skeleton<br />
version exudes the contemporary edge of King-<br />
Square. <strong>The</strong> KingSquare for ladies is a celebration<br />
of feminity, offering a graceful movement marked<br />
by the triple beating hearts, Cupid’s arrows and<br />
<strong>The</strong> Subtle<br />
feminine<br />
King Square<br />
a satin strap. It is a sheer voyeuristic pleasure presented<br />
through the openwork movement.<br />
Committed to its founding mission, and with a line of novelties<br />
as well as the all-time favourite classic New Golden<br />
Square, <strong>Roger</strong> <strong>Dubuis</strong> will remain on the front row when<br />
it comes to time measurement accorded with an audacity<br />
of design.<br />
commiTTed To iTs founding<br />
mission charTer, and wiTh a<br />
line of novelTies as well as <strong>The</strong><br />
all-<strong>Time</strong> favouriTe classic new<br />
golden square, roger dubuis<br />
will remain fronT row in <strong>Time</strong><br />
measuremenT accorded wiTh<br />
an audaciTy of design.<br />
Easy Driver<br />
Sporty Elegant<br />
55
Chopard<br />
Mille Miglia GT XL<br />
Racing, White Dial<br />
Chronograph,<br />
Limited Edition<br />
Zenith<br />
El Primero<br />
Striking 10th<br />
Breitling<br />
Chronomat B01
Jaeger-leCoultre<br />
Master Compressor<br />
Extreme World<br />
Chronograph<br />
VaCheron<br />
Constantin<br />
Patrimony<br />
Complications<br />
audemars piguet<br />
Millenary Pink Gold
Cartier<br />
Calibre de Cartier<br />
with Paved Bezel<br />
Calibre de Cartier<br />
Black Dial<br />
hamilton<br />
Khaki Pioneer<br />
Mechanical<br />
PhoTogRAPhER<br />
iswanto soerjanto<br />
ART DiRECToR<br />
noni soeparman
feature<br />
62<br />
El Primero<br />
Striking 10th in<br />
Rose gold<br />
zeniTh’s el primero adds<br />
sophisTicaTion wiTh a<br />
sTriking 10Th<br />
tHe<br />
el-PrimerO<br />
Strikes Back<br />
For more than three decades, Zenith’s El<br />
Primero movement has been the epitome<br />
of precision and technical elegance. Despite<br />
Zenith’s tremendous watchmaking history, the El<br />
Primero has been able to carve a special place for<br />
itself in the brand’s history thanks to its ability to<br />
beat ten times a second and subsequent breakthroughs<br />
in its dry lubrication construction and<br />
specially-adapted power reserve function.<br />
Although the El Primero has been so acclaimed,<br />
Zenith is not stopping in further<br />
developing it. With new CEO Jean-Frédéric<br />
Dufour taking the helm, the El Primero was<br />
adapted for a new El Primero Striking 10th<br />
timepiece. <strong>The</strong> watch is the first salvo in Mr.<br />
Dufour’s efforts to highlight the technical expertise<br />
that brought Zenith to the forefront of<br />
movement manufacturing in the first place.<br />
With a jumping seconds chronograph, the<br />
El Primero Striking 10th provides visibility<br />
of the smallest fraction of time measured by<br />
a series-produced mechanical movements.<br />
<strong>The</strong> making of one Striking 10th timepiece involves<br />
nine months of work by twenty watchmakers.<br />
4El Primero<br />
Striking 10th<br />
has been<br />
improved and<br />
optimized<br />
compared to<br />
the original<br />
El-Primero<br />
El Primero<br />
36’000 in a<br />
stainless steel<br />
bracelet<br />
in comparison To <strong>The</strong> original el<br />
primero, <strong>The</strong> new sTriking 10Th has been<br />
improved and opTimized enabling <strong>The</strong> greaTer<br />
acceleraTion of movemenT. driven by <strong>The</strong><br />
el primero 4052 b auTomaTic calibre, <strong>The</strong> el<br />
primero sTriking 10Th chronograph comes<br />
in a choice of a limiTed ediTion (500 uniTs)<br />
18-caraT rose gold or sTainless sTeel 42 mm<br />
case.<br />
63
feature<br />
In comparison to the original El Primero, the<br />
new Striking 10th has been improved and optimized<br />
enabling greater acceleration in the<br />
movement. Driven by the El Primero 4052<br />
B automatic calibre, the El Primero Striking<br />
10th chronograph comes in a choice of a limited<br />
edition (500 units) 18-carat rose gold or<br />
stainless steel 42 mm case. <strong>The</strong> heart of the<br />
El Primero beats at 36,000 vibrations per hour<br />
and the hands make ten jumps per second, a<br />
particularly stunning technical feat.<br />
A silver sunray-brushed dial features circular<br />
satin-brushed zones for the rose gold version.<br />
Both the stainless steel model and rose gold<br />
model also feature three counters. For the<br />
stainless steel version, these come in subtle<br />
shades of blue and grey, while the rose gold<br />
version features three anthracite counters.<br />
<strong>The</strong> faceted hands and hour-markers coated<br />
with Superluminova are rhodium-plated on<br />
steel models and gold-plated on the rose gold<br />
references. <strong>The</strong> distinctive 1/10th of a second<br />
indication is clearly marked off by the dedicated<br />
chronograph hand. <strong>The</strong> movement is<br />
also elegantly finished with an oscillating<br />
weight decorated with a Côtes de Genève pattern.<br />
Exuding exclusivity and power, the El Primero<br />
Striking 10th is for those of the same nature,<br />
the perceptive few who appreciate the<br />
past while looking toward the future. With a<br />
timeless, attention-to-detail design and substance<br />
unlike any other, this new El Primero<br />
is a worthy addition to a famed heritage.<br />
64<br />
3Left:<br />
Awards the<br />
El-Primero has<br />
collected over<br />
the years<br />
6 From Top:<br />
<strong>The</strong> El-Primero<br />
Stricking 1969<br />
6Bottom:<br />
<strong>The</strong> original<br />
El-Primero<br />
movement &<br />
movement<br />
assembling at<br />
the Factory
CeleBrity & WatCHes<br />
78<br />
Jesse mCCartney – Panerai<br />
Singer/actor Jesse McCartney has decided to join<br />
the social media bandwagon by using his Twitter<br />
account to announce the completion of his<br />
highly anticipated fourth solo album. <strong>The</strong> first<br />
single, apparently to be named Shake, will be on<br />
airwaves sometime in September this year. <strong>The</strong><br />
20 year old multi-talented artist, who received a<br />
Grammy nomination for co-writing the hit Leona<br />
Lewis single Bleeding Love, has yet to announce<br />
the title of the album. Jesse McCartney wears a<br />
Panerai.<br />
ello – taG Heuer<br />
Singer-songwriter Ello was recently<br />
spotted at a TAG Heuer party at Plaza<br />
Senayan, marking the kick-off of<br />
their four-day exhibition. Leading his<br />
band to a set list of his best songs, the<br />
crowd gathered around the atrium<br />
to witness one of Indonesia’s finest<br />
in action. Currently working on his<br />
fourth album this year, Ello fondly<br />
wore a Monaco LS that evening.<br />
Blake lively – CHanel<br />
Unlike her role as the rebellious party girl<br />
Serena Van der Woodsen on television’s<br />
Gossip Girl, Blake Lively was actually quite<br />
the overachiever during her actual high<br />
school days. Lively, who went to school<br />
in California, was a member of the school<br />
choir, class president and cheerleader.<br />
Though she left school for awhile to star in<br />
her breakout role of Bridget, on <strong>The</strong> Sisterhood<br />
of the Traveling Pants, she returned<br />
just in time to finish her senior year. Blake<br />
Lively, on screen and in real life, wears a<br />
Chanel.<br />
Jason statHam – Panerai<br />
No matter how many bad reviews the movie<br />
received prior to its commercial release,<br />
numbers speak for themselves when Jason<br />
Statham’s new movie <strong>The</strong> Expendables hit<br />
number one on the US Box Office charts.<br />
easily beating out Julia Roberts’ highly anticipated<br />
movie Eat, Pray, Love, Statham,<br />
joins two of the biggest names in action<br />
film, Sylvester Stallone and Jet Li, in the<br />
two-part movie as Lee Christmas, a former<br />
British-American S.A.S solider. Jason<br />
Statham wears a Panerai.<br />
taylor lautner – iWC<br />
Thanks to the phenomenal success of the Twilight Saga franchise, actor<br />
Taylor Lautner is now one of Hollywood’s most successful young actors.<br />
Lautner, who also became a junior world champion in martial arts<br />
when he was twelve years old, recently won Favorite Breakout Movie<br />
Actor at the People’s Choice Awards and Favorite Movie Actor at the<br />
Kids Choice Awards. Taylor wears IWC.<br />
roBin Williams – iWC<br />
Writers often hate it when actors<br />
go off script. This was not the<br />
case however when it involved<br />
seasoned actor and comedian<br />
Robin Williams. Since his early<br />
days as alien Mork on the hit 1978<br />
TV show Mork and Mindy, writers<br />
would deliberately leave gaps<br />
in the script, allowing Williams to<br />
improvise. <strong>The</strong>se days, Williams<br />
is busy with his latest stand-up<br />
comedy act dubbed Weapons of<br />
Self Destruction. Robin Williams<br />
wears a IWC.<br />
roBin tHiCke – Cartier<br />
With a vocalist mother and actor<br />
father, Alan Thicke from the TV series<br />
Growing Pains, it was inevitable<br />
that singer Robin Thicke would have<br />
a taste of his own stardom. Having<br />
spent his childhood listening to music<br />
and teaching himself the piano,<br />
Thicke recorded his debut album, A<br />
Beautiful Day, selling 59,000 copies.<br />
His second album, <strong>The</strong> Evolution of<br />
Robin Thicke, sold 20,000 copies in<br />
its first week alone. Thicke is the first<br />
white artist in over twenty years to<br />
top the US R&B charts. Robin Thicke<br />
wears Cartier.<br />
emma Watson – CHanel<br />
When one hits mega-stardom, it<br />
seems every bit of information<br />
causes a buzz. For Harry Potter<br />
actress, Emma Watson, apparently<br />
a simple haircut can cause a<br />
commotion. Her new pixie hairdo,<br />
which she had apparently wanted<br />
since she was 16 years old, was<br />
debuted in early August and has<br />
earned strong opinions from millions<br />
of fans. Her own father, apparently,<br />
told her she looked like a<br />
boy. Claiming it was the most liberating<br />
thing, Watson is enjoying<br />
time to herself now that the last installment<br />
of the Harry Potter series<br />
has ended. Emma Watson wears<br />
Chanel.<br />
79