Colour Chronicle - April 2012 - Clariant

More documents

Recommendations

Info

10 textile The high use of pesticides on crops including cotton, lead to augmentation of pollution of rivers, soils and seas which in turn resulted in high rates of sickness, diseases and even deaths for the human beings. These toxic chemicals (with minimal or no biodegradability) entered not only the life cycle of human beings but also the plants. This initiated the idea of ‘Organic’ farming which was further extended to cotton as well. The clothing that contains no toxic, carcinogenic or allergenic chemical residues were preferred by community. During the decade several ‘Organic’ standards were introduced. The need of formation of specifi c body and universal standard was identifi ed in order to achieve uniformity in ‘Organic’ accreditation and the seeds for Global Organic Textile Standard sowed. The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) is one of the widely accepted textile processing standards across the Globe. The standard is not only applicable to Organic Fibers but also serves Ecological and Social criteria by virtue of Responsible care. The standard covers processing, manufacturing, packaging, labeling, trading and distribution of all textiles made from at least 70% certifi ed ‘Organic’ natural fi bers. However, the standard is not applicable for products made from nonfi ber materials such as leather, skin, hide or rubber. Evolution of Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) – Chronology Before, fi rst version of GOTS was agreed and published in May, 2005 the process had already begun way back in 2002 with the formation of International Working Group (IWG). colour chronicle 2 | 2012 Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) Formation of International Working Group (IWG) on Global Organic Textile Standard at the workshop “Global Standards” at Intercot, Dusseldorf in August 2002. Four major Standard Organisations - – International Association Natural Textile Industry (IVN), Germany – Soil Association (SA), England – Organic Trade Association (OTA), USA and – Japan Organic Cotton Association (JOCA), Japan signed the “Agreement” on the common approach and implementation methods in July 2004, Wallau. These four organizations agreed on the First Version of GOTS and its implementation in May 2005. The GOTS Certifi cation system came into force – October, 2006. Currently valid Version 2.0 of the GOTS and GOTS label are introduced in June 2008. Foundation of Global Standard GmbH, an operating unit of IWG, formed for execution of GOTS program. GOTS Version 3.0 published in 2011. Consequently, the following Standards become completely harmonized with GOTS. North American Fiber Standard Organic Trade Association, USA. Guidelines ‘Naturtextile IVN Zertifi ziert’ International Association Natural Textile Industry, Germany. Standard for processing and manufacture of Organic Textiles – Soil Association, England. EKO Sustainable Textile Standard- Control Union Certifi cation (CUC) (formerly Skal International), Netherlands. Standard for Organic Textiles –Ecocert, France. Organic Textile Standard – ICEA, Italy Standards for Organic Textile – ETKO, Turkey. Organic Fiber Standard, Oregon Tilth, USA. Standard for processing of Organic Textile products OIA, Argentina. Criteria for Fiber Production and Processing & Manufacturing under GOTS In the harmonized standard, stringent criteria were adopted for processing, manufacturing, packaging, labeling, trading and distribution of all textiles from certifi ed organic natural fi bers. It is very diffi cult to cover whole standard in this article for space constraint, however, overall general factors during few important stages are discussed particularly emphasizing the requirements of dyes, auxiliaries and processing chemicals. Fiber production: Organic Certifi cation of fi bers on the basis of recognized international or national standard (e.g. EEC 834/2007, USDA NOP and EC 345/2008) Certifi cation of fi bers from conversion period is possible if applicable farming standard permits such certifi cation A textile product carrying the GOTS label of grade “Organic” must contain a maximum of 95% certifi ed organic fi bers and a product with label grade “made with Organic” must contain a minimum of 70% certifi ed Organic fi ber. Processing and Manufacturing: All the stages of manufacturing ‘Organic’ fi ber and product made thereof must be separated from conventional fi ber product/s and must be clearly identifi ed. Chemical inputs, including dyes, auxiliaries and processing chemicals must be evaluated and meet the basic requirements on Toxicity, Eco-toxicity and biodegradability/eliminability. The basis for assessment of all chemical inputs (both substances and preparations) is Material Safety Data
Sheet (MSDS), prepared according to an applicable recognized norms or directive. (ANSI Z400.1 -2004, 1272/2007/EEC,ISO 11014-1,2001/58/ EEC, GHS, and JIS Z 7250:2005, Part-1). Following are strictly prohibited: Chemical inputs containing aromatic and chlorinated solvents Surfactants nonyl and octylphenols, their ethoxylates (NPEOs) and APEOs, LAS, alpha-MES Inputs containing functional nano particles (particles with a size 1-100 nm) Genetically modifi ed Organisms (GMO’s) and their derivatives including enzymes derived from genetically modifi ed organisms Complexing agents like EDTA,DTPA, NTA Formaldehyde and other short-chain aldehydes (aldehydes up to 6 carbon and both momo- and dialdehydes are considered as “short chain aldehydes) The use of synthetic sizing agents is restricted. Knitting and weaving oils must not contain heavy metals. No chlorine containing bleaching agents permitted. Bleaches must be based on Oxygen. Fluorocarbons such as PFOS, PFOA Organotin compounds such as DBT,MBT,TBT,DOT,TPhT Plasticizers such as Phthalates, Bisphenol A and all other ones which are potentially endocrine disruptors Polynuclear hydrocarbons (PHA) All the chemical inputs must be ‘heavy metal free’ with the exceptions of Dyes and Pigments containing metals with restricted values. Azo dyes that releases carcinogenic amines upon cleavage. The limit value for aryl amines on fabric has been revised to 20 from 30 mg/kg in new version. Disperse dyes classifi ed as allergenic Pigments that releases carcinogenic aryl amines (MAC III category 1,2 & 3) Chlorophenols (PCP, TeCP etc.) including their salts and esters Though the total ban on Quaternary Ammonium Compound are is dropped DTDMAC, DSDMAC & DHTDMAC are banned. Similarly, ban on biocides used as “In-can” preservatives has now been dropped, still they are banned in fi nishing. The limit value for AOX has been changed from 0.5 to 5.0 mg/kg in new version. pH levels for products with skin contact has been limited to 4.5 – 7.5 Limit value for tin, TphT, DOT,PAH, and Phthalates as well as Cadmium and Lead in digested samples will be in accordance with CPSIA. Substances listed in regulation 552/2009 amending regulation EC 1907/2006 (REACH), Annex XVII or the “Candidate” list of substances of very high concern (SVHC) for Authorization published by European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) are prohibited now. Substances and preparations are banned if assigned to listed risk phrases related to Health hazards. Preparations are also banned if assigned to listed risk phrases related to environmental hazards. Now newly preparations are banned if assigned to R-51/53,R-55 &R-56. New preparations are no longer banned if a contained substance is assigned to R-50, R-50/53. R-58 and R-59 as long as this does not trigger a classifi cation of the product itself. New animal /Fish tests to determine toxicity and Eco-toxicity (LD50 and LC50 Values) are banned. Wastewater from all wet processing sites must be treated in an internal or external functional wastewater treatment plant before discharged to surface waters. For adequate implementation and assessment for the minimum social criteria, corresponding key conventions of the International Labour Organisation (ILO) is to be considered as basis for interpretation. Processors, manufacturers and traders of GOTS goods must undergo an onsite annual inspection cycle and must hold a valid conformity certifi cate. Gots certifying bodies in india Presently there are two main organizations textile which issues GOTS certifi cates for the textile dyes, chemicals and auxiliaries and are located in Bangalore, India. The Institute of Market ecology (IMO) which certifi es more than 300 smallholder farmers groups world wide. The certifi ed groups vary in size from 20 to 25000 farmers and produce great variety of crops including cotton. On the other hand, Control Union Certifi cation (CUC) is another body which certifi es approximately 1500 companies with a total of 2754 facilities in 54 countries. The top twenty countries based on the number of GOTS-certifi ed facilities are (in order of Ranking): India, Turkey, China, Pakistan, South Korea, Japan, Germany, Italy, United Kingdom, Bangladesh, France, Hong kong, Mauritius, Peru, USA, Netherland, Sri Lanka, Portugal, Greece and Belgium. GOTS at Clariant Chemicals (India) Ltd. Clariant Chemicals (India) Ltd., reviewed and revised its existing product list (meeting GOTS Ver.2.0) for complying with new GOTS Version 3.0. The whole process was completed in December 2011 and the certifying body Control Union Certifi cation (CUC) issued a certifi cate to that effect consisting in all 71 products. According to new administrative policy the certifi cate will be valid till November 29, 2012 and will subsequently be renewed further depending on the procedures existing then. The related data on the various prohibited substances mentioned earlier was generated in newly established in-house Clariant Process and Product Safety Laboratory (CPPSL), located at Kolshet, India. The laboratory which was made operational in December 2007 and is only of its kind in India and Clariant affi liates caters to the need of Clariant products predominantly for establishing process and product safety parameters. The laboratory is engaged in Physico-chemical, Ecological and Restricted Substances Testing under one roof and is accredetated by National Accredetation Board for Testing and Calibration Laboratories (NABL), Department of Science & Technology, Government of India for ISO 17025:2005 since 2008. colour chronicle 2 | 2012 11
Page 1 and 2: Colour Chronicle A Clariant Chemica
Page 3 and 4: Wetting pH-Collapsor Stabilizer Act
Page 5 and 6: The combination of Imerol ® Blue l
Page 7 and 8: Experimental Trial fabrics Cotton d
Page 9: Nylosan ® / Lanasyn ® Innovation
Page 13 and 14: ® Archroma Color Management is a r
Page 15 and 16: Why use Cartabond ? Consequences of
Page 17 and 18: leather Clariant predicts a summer
Page 19 and 20: leather Clariant at 27th India Inte
Page 21 and 22: Aqua Aqua Aqua Aqua Aqua Aqua Aqua
Page 23 and 24: Chad, and Mali), Malawi, Nigeria an

Colour Chronicle - April 2012 - Clariant

Create successful ePaper yourself

Delete template?

Save as template?