Colour Chronicle - April 2012 - Clariant

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8 textile Foron ® S-WF Innovation in the field of disperse dyestuffs Innovation in disperse dyes? Disperse dyes are the dyes that are the most commoditized class of textile dyestuffs. The reasons for this are: Polyester is the biggest of all textile fi bers Polyester is the cheapest textile fi ber that can be dyed The biggest polyester producers are in Asia with the main users in close proximity The biggest disperse dyestuff producers are therefore in Asia and are backward integrated. Therefore they have a very low cost base The environmental bureaucracy (with its associated cost to industry) has not reached the same level as in developed countries, even though the basic legislation is slowly getting in place The more the elements are commodities the more they are interchangeable and the less innovation tends to result. From Artisil ® to Foron ® Past major developments of disperse dyes Innovation steps for disperse dyes: Acetate fi ber invention (trade name Artisil ® for disperse dyes, since acetate fi ber was nicknamed that time “artifi cial silk”) Polyester fi ber invention (not all disperse dyes for acetate are/were suitable for polyester – the success of polyester led to change of trade name to Foron ® ) High temperature dyeing machine invention (no need for carrier dyeing anymore led to a wider choice of available chemistry - Foron ® SE, Foron ® S) Thermosol continuous dyeing process invention (need for high sublimation dyes to achieve stable dyeing conditions – Foron ® S) Alkaline resist printing (dyestuff as ground color that can be discharged with alkali whilst alkaline stable, ‘normal’ disperse dyes are used in the print paste to form the pattern) colour chronicle 2 | 2012 Foron ® RD (dyestuffs with very good reproducibility on machines with not so perfect controls) Past minor developments of disperse dyes After the advent of Foron ® RD - end 1970s/ beginning 1980s, only minor developments took place: Shade gamut extension (Foron ® Brilliant Blue S-R) Fastness property improvements (benzo-di-furanon reds) Replacement of ‘forbidden’ dyestuffs Foron ® S-WF Innovations from 1985 to 2000? There was no visible innovation in disperse dyes after Foron ® Brilliant Blue S-R until the launch of the initial 4 Foron ® S-WF dyes 2000. This lengthy period was needed to fi nd suitable chemistry that overcame the main defi ciencies of the Foron ® S type disperse dyes. These were: Insuffi cient fastness to washing on polyester/cellulose blends, especially in continuous dyeing (Thermosol process, developed by Sandoz – now Clariant – in cooperation with Monforts), but also in exhaust dyeing Insuffi cient fastness to sublimation in dark shades for yarn dyed fabric of fi ner fi laments Too high staining of white ground in printing with superheated steam fi xation on fi ner polyester fabrics Foron ® S-WF innovation From 2000 to today the Foron ® S-WF dyes range has expanded to 16 dyes. The current range covers a wider coloristic range than the Foron ® S range did at its peak (wider in the red and green area, a little less wide in the violet area). This year we are finishing the planned shade gamut by launching 3 new dyes: Foron ® Turquoise S-WF (for bright greens to be able to match cotton standards) Foron ® Vermillion S-WF (for bright reds) Foron ® Atlantic Blue S-WF (greenish blue dyestuff as metamerism control element) Foron ® S-WF dyestuff range The Foron ® S-WF range consists now of the following elements: Foron ® Brilliant Yellow S-WF Foron ® Golden Yellow S-WF Foron ® Orange S-WF Foron ® Scarlet S-WF Foron ® Vermillion S-WF Foron ® Red S-WF Foron ® Rubine S-WF Foron ® Violet S-WF Foron ® Blue S-WF Foron ® Cyanine S-WF Foron ® Turquoise S-WF Foron ® Atlantic Blue S-WF Foron ® Dark Blue S-WF Foron ® Navy S-WF Foron ® Carbon S-WF Foron ® Black S-WF Innovation in disperse dyes There has been innovation in the fi eld of disperse dyes. The innovation did follow initially the development in fi ber technology. From acetate to polyester, from carrier dyeing to high temperature dyeing, from coarse staple fi ber to fi ne microfi ber fi laments, all these developments from the fi ber and dyeing machine industries necessitated improvements in the dyestuffs available. Since one can assume that there will be no major fi ber or machine development in the near future, the innovation will have to cover unmet needs that are not very visible: Ecological / toxicological market demands Fastness demands form retailers and consumers But, as can be seen already with the introduction of Foron ® S-WF: Innovation takes time!
Nylosan ® / Lanasyn ® Innovation in the field of acid dyestuffs – Innovation in acid dyes? Acid dyestuffs belong to a class which is believed to be at the end of its innovation potential. The reason for this widespread opinion is clear: Acid dyes are amongst the fi rst synthetic dyes ever produced Nearly half of the whole “Colour Index”, a comprehensive list of colorants past and present, published by the professional bodies SDC and AATCC, consists of acid dyes (more than reactive, vat, sulphur, disperse dyes put together) There are acid dyestuffs that have been on the market for more than 100 years (e.g. CI Acid Blue 113, a standard navy acid dye for polyamide, was invented in 1892) The market for acid dyes is not as big as the market for disperse dyes, vat dyes or reactive dyes There is a lot of interaction between dyes and fi ber, so an acid dyes range has to have more elements than e.g. a reactive dyes range. Therefore the volumes of single dyes are rather small if compared to other dyestuff ranges From Xylene and Alizarinto Nylosan ® and Lanasyn ® A review Clariant (at that time Chemische Fabrik Kern & Sandoz) started in 1886 as a dyestuff manufacturer with acid dyestuffs. In 2011, exactly 125 years later, acid dyestuffs are still a substantial part of Clariant’s dyestuff portfolio. Even though other dyestuff classes were invented as new fibers came to the market (such as disperse dyes for polyester) or as chemical science made progress (like reactive dyes for cellulose fibers), acid dyestuffs remained important. Developed originally for wool and silk, acid dyes were further advanced for the synthetic fiber polyamide. Over the years our products were improved; old and well loved trade names appeared and disappeared again (Xylene, Alizarin, to just name a few), others are still in existence (Lanasyn ® , Nylosan ® ). And thanks to polyamide, with its development of microfi bers, and an early awareness by Clariant’s management regarding the environmental and health impact of heavy metals in acid dyes, Clariant refocused on acid dyestuff innovation. Nylosan ® S The problems Wet fastness: Deep shades on fi ner fi lament counts of polyamide cannot be achieved with suffi ciently high fastness to washing with existing dyestuffs. Ecology: Deep shades with good fastness on polyamide or wool cannot be achieved without the use of poisonous heavy metals, either bound in the dyestuff as metal complex or generated in situ on the fi ber with mordant dyes. Depth of shade: The fi ner a fi ber fi lament the more dyestuff is needed to achieve a deeper shade. Polyamide especially has only a limited number of dyestuff binding sites. On natural, non chemically treated wool, good fabric appearance is not easily achieved due to the effect of sunlight on the sheep’s fl eece. The requirements The initial quest for solving the problem was not an easy path to follow: Find new dyestuff chromophores that are metal-free and at the same time so strong that dark shades can be achieved The dyestuffs have to have the wet fastness properties of at least that achievable with metal complex dyestuffs They should be relatively easy to apply textile They should not impact negatively on the spinning properties of wool Due to the above very demanding list or requirements, it seemed nearly impossible that such requirements would be met. A lot of the demands seemed to be mutually excluding themselves e.g. improving the wet fastness of an acid dyestuff by incorporating a fi ber-reactive system impacts on the reproducibility and levelness of a dyeing as well as on the possible depth that can be reached. The solution A new range was born – Nylosan ® S. Even though still incomplete the range is growing year on year. Currently it consists of Nylosan ® Yellow S-L Nylosan ® Orange S-3R Nylosan ® Red S-GS Nylosan ® Red S-3B Nylosan ® Brilliant Red S-3R (new 2011) Nylosan ® Blue S-R Nylosan ® Navy S-3G The research on Nylosan ® S also led to the discovery of a very special dyestuff. Even though having Nylosan ® S wet fastness levels, because of special combination possibilities we have chosen to name it: Lanasyn ® Flavine F-5G (new 2011) This dye is the most brilliant acid yellow element in the market and the ideal partner to turquoise for bright greens on polyamide. Just have a look at the dyed samples. Acid dyestuff innovation! There is still life in an old dyestuff fi eld: a) After exactly 125 years in acid dyestuffs, Clariant launches with Lanasyn ® Flavine F-5G a very visible proof of its innovative spirit. b) Up to now it was not always possible to match brilliant yellow or brilliant green shades on wool or on polyamide to cotton standards. Now the situation is reversed. colour chronicle 2 | 2012 9
Page 1 and 2: Colour Chronicle A Clariant Chemica
Page 3 and 4: Wetting pH-Collapsor Stabilizer Act
Page 5 and 6: The combination of Imerol ® Blue l
Page 7: Experimental Trial fabrics Cotton d
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Colour Chronicle - April 2012 - Clariant

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