View/Open - Scholarly Commons Home

Fig. 6:3 These images show a number of early experiments where I was considering the use of machine-made
samples of knitted/woven fabric. Although these experiments proved unsuccessful, they demonstrate early
concerns with the potential of mixing of wool, satin and cotton strips.
To create metaphors that would speak of physical, psychological and sexual manipulation
I experimented with various fabrics. I used a combination of techniques that included
ammonia bleaching, distressing, and the crinkling of cotton substrates. Similarly, a
combination of sewing, slashing and rough-washing layered fabrics produced other
results that were helpful in developing surfaces for discussing physical abuse. At this
time I also began experimenting with the traditional Indian technique of bandhej.
Historically this procedure uses small locally grown grains (like lentils). These are tied in
the fabric and then the cloth is dyed to a desired colour. The grains are then removed. By
experimenting with this technique eventually developed textures that referenced HIV
warts. 74
Fig. 6:4 Above are examples
of experiments undertaken in 2006. The first texture is developed as a metaphor for
physical manipulation. Here I was stitching, washing and slashing different layers of fabric so they formed a
‘whole’ through a process of integration and disintegration. The second texture is based on psychological
manipulation. Here I was using ammonia bleaches to distress the denim fibre. The third texture was an
experiment I undertook to find a ‘voice’ for the symptoms of AIDS. Using an adaptation of the bandhej
technique, I employed a stretchable transparent fabric into which lustrous red studs were tied.
74 These warts are a symptom of the later stages of AIDS infection, (see Fig. 6:4).
67