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Macro Focus stacking<br />

then take the pictures by gradually<br />

racking the lens backwards,<br />

depending on the increments, until<br />

the fly becomes out of focus again at the<br />

front end,’ he explains. David always uses<br />

manual focus, because when working this<br />

close your autofocus can get easily confused<br />

and lock on to the wrong part of the subject.<br />

David’s award-winning fly was just 2.4mm<br />

in depth, and shooting at increments of<br />

0.04mm required 61 images to make up<br />

the final picture.<br />

His apparatus may look slightly comical,<br />

but watching David work his magic is<br />

amazing. From the freezer he produces<br />

a fly he caught earlier (see page 25 for<br />

information about caring for your subjects).<br />

After some early misadventures trapping<br />

insects, David now uses a Pooter, a more<br />

humane apparatus used by entomologists<br />

and pest-removal experts that gently sucks<br />

up the insects into a tube and holds them<br />

against a soft filter until the inhalation is<br />

reversed and the insects drop into a jar.<br />

Once David has his subject, he carefully<br />

places it inside one half of a ping-pong ball<br />

that has been cut in two. This helps to diffuse<br />

the two studio lights he uses to illuminate<br />

the subject, and it reduces unwanted<br />

highlights in the fly’s eyes or body. Attached<br />

to a clamp is his Canon EOS 40D, fitted with<br />

a 35mm f/2.8 bellows lens, with a special<br />

microscope thread attached to the Canon<br />

FL bellows. On the back of his camera he<br />

has an FL-to-EF adapter, while on the front<br />

he has another fitted to take the lens. With<br />

the lights on and the ISO at 100, David<br />

takes an exposure reading using AV mode.<br />

With the mirror in lock-up position and<br />

Enlarger lenses<br />

Using a bellows unit like<br />

David’s can give you a much<br />

closer look at your subject than<br />

using ordinary extension tubes,<br />

and using an old enlarger lens<br />

in reverse can give you even<br />

greater magnification at an<br />

inexpensive price. Enlarger<br />

lenses were designed for<br />

projecting magnified versions of<br />

a negative onto paper. While in<br />

the darkroom the back of the<br />

enlarger lens would be closest to<br />

your negative to project a larger<br />

version of it onto your paper,<br />

here you can turn it around so<br />

that the back of the lens faces<br />

your subject. In essence, you are<br />

using the lens within its original<br />

design conditions and exploiting<br />

its low field curvature and high<br />

resolution, thus making it idea for<br />

David’s ‘super macro’ technique.<br />

Lacewing made<br />

from 41 separate<br />

source images<br />

Canon EOS 40D,<br />

Nikon E Plan 4x/0.1<br />

microscope objective<br />

lens, 0.8sec, 0.015<br />

increments, mag<br />

7x, ISO 100<br />

‘Maybe it’s my scientific<br />

background that attracts me<br />

to the apparatus required for<br />

this super-macro work’<br />

David’s camera<br />

setup with his<br />

home-made<br />

increment chart<br />

that shows depth<br />

of field at each<br />

aperture and<br />

focal-length<br />

combination<br />

using a remote shutter, he fires a test shot at<br />

1.3secs at f/4, which is the best aperture for<br />

resolution, he says, with this lens.<br />

Once set up, the photographic process is<br />

simple. With the lights on, he takes the first<br />

shot and then adjusts the focus backward<br />

0.04mm. He takes his second shot, winds on<br />

the focus another 0.04mm and keeps doing<br />

this all the way across the subject until he<br />

reaches the end. ‘I don’t focus visually,’ says<br />

David. ‘Once I know the increments, I wind<br />

the camera backwards on a micrometer<br />

[a device used in mechanical trades for<br />

precision measurement] and press the<br />

remote shutter release at every increment.’<br />

David sometimes uses an adapter ring to<br />

reverse old enlarger lenses, which allows<br />

for even greater magnification (see Enlarger<br />

lenses, left). He also makes his own bespoke<br />

adapters to attach lenses to his bellows.<br />

To add an extra element to his images,<br />

David has a collection of small coloured<br />

background cards that can be lit separately<br />

for special effects. While adding colour<br />

and achieving a perfect exposure aren’t<br />

problems for David, his biggest obstacle is<br />

a lack of space between the lens and his<br />

subject. When using his microscope lens, the<br />

working distance from lens to subject can be<br />

as little as 5mm, he says. ‘That’s when it gets<br />

tricky, but it’s also when the fun starts. It’s<br />

when you need to get creative.’ AP<br />

26 www.amateurphotographer.co.uk I 17 April 2010 subscribe 0845 676 7778<br />

www.storemags.com & www.fantamag.com

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