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CAJUN (FOOD) COURT Skip the 28–hour train: Beck's Cajun Cafe takes you to Louisiana in minutes BY FARYN PEARL | PHOTOS BY SHAYLA COLE It’s strange to get such fine food in a food court. But that’s where the excellent Beck’s Cajun Cafe lies—right between a KFC and a nameless take–out Chinese stand. Of course, most people won’t have the luxury of sitting down and savoring Beck’s Louisiana–style offerings. They’ll be catching a train, grabbing gumbo on the go. That’s right: Beck’s is in the middle of 30th Street Station. While the venue might not scream “some of the best Cajun cooking in Philadelphia,” the food does. And it’s the food that matters to chef and owner Bill Beck, who owned a Latin restaurant before starting the first Beck’s Cajun in Reading Terminal Market. A chef by trade, he was always attracted to Cajun cooking, an amalgamation of Latin, French and Southern cuisine. In talking to Beck, it was clear that he was passionate about bringing this style of cooking to Philadelphia and about the food he was serving. So let’s get to the food. Namely, Beck serves alligator, and it is delicious. Honestly, my comrades and I were a little (read: completely) terrified when the Gator Gumbo ($6.95) came out. One bite and we were converts. Alligator meat is surprisingly lean and flavorful, like chicken but BECK'S CAJUN CAFE University City 30th Street Station (215) 382-2800 DON'T MISS: Gator Gumbo. SKIP: Jambalaya Bowl. $$$$ more savory. Add that exotic meat (which, by the way, is authentic—they ship it from Louisiana) to a spicy and richly flavored gumbo stock and you have yourself a meal that’s truly crave–worthy. For favorites, the mini–cornbread loaves ($1) were a close second. Golden and crispy on the outside, warm and airy on the inside, they were the kind of pastry you read about in Martha Stewart magazines, but can never seem to recreate on your own. Also of note were the beignets ($3.95), a classic Louisiana–style doughnut smothered with fine confectioner’s powder (which got all over my pants but was otherwise totally worth it), and the Train Wreck Po Boy ($9.95), a hulking mass of steak and pork covered in cheese and sandwiched between crispy French bread—an alternate cheesesteak to rival Pat’s and Geno’s. The only disappointment was the Jambalaya Bowl ($6.95), the quintessential Cajun dish. It just didn’t have the spiciness or ingenu- ity of the other dishes; even the added kick of Beck’s own 3 Devils Hot Sauce ($6.99, part of their new retail line) couldn’t elevate it to the others’ level. I know it’s no fun to read a gushingly positive review. But with incredible authentic Cajun cuisine—seriously, alligator—and the friendliest service around, it’s hard to find anything bad to say about Beck’s Cajun Cafe. Next time you need to go to 30th Street Station, give yourself a 30–minute head start and check out Beck’s. It will be worth the trip. “ A family business with a commitment to providing our customers with delicious, healthy meals in a relaxing atmosphere at reasonable prices. ” 306 S. 16th Street, Philadelphia, PA 19102 215-546- 0818 Dining Guide 34TH STREET Magazine February 13, 2013 15
34TH STREET Magazine February 13, 2013 Dining Guide 16 SETTING THE STANDARD Spectacular BYO brunch on Baltimore BY SOPHIA FISCHLER–GOTTFRIED | PHOTOS BY SOPHIA FISCHLER–GOTTFRIED If you walk west up Baltimore Avenue up to the trendy neighborhood of Cedar Park, you’ll find The Gold Standard Café, which offers a quirky rendition on a classic comfort brunch. The restaurant takes over the whole corner of 48th Street—you can’t miss it, nor should you. At noon on a Sunday I found the entire restaurant packed. Neighborhood locals know that a Gold Standard brunch is worth the wait. The cafe has a DAHLAK Eritrean & Ethiopian Restaurant and Bar Present this ad for 10% off! Expires 3/31/13 4708 Baltimore Avenue, Philadelphia, PA 19143 front room with breakfast bar seating, where patrons can get pastries and coffee from the counter. For those wanting the full brunch experience, there is a homey dining room in the back, equipped with large wooden tables, lots of natural light and art for sale on the walls. Owner Roger Hartman explained that The Gold Standard’s premise is to give people a “third place.” We may have a place to work and to live, but healthy lifestyles incorporate a third place to hang out and seek nourishment. Hartman, a former economics professor at Penn, used to have a branch of The Gold Standard right on Locust Walk in what is now the Arch Building. He named the restaurant after the economic principle by the same name, which refers to the practice of fixing currencies to a specified amount of gold. Although it’s not steps from Huntsman any longer, the Gold Standard still gives a taste of hearty, locally– sourced brunch and a taste of the neighborhood Hartman has lived in for more than 30 years. We started with rich, dark coffee and fresh–squeezed orange juice while admiring the plates of those around us. We had to sample something from the tempting range of pastries in the display cases up front, and we were steered to the cinnamon donut, lightly topped with a sweet frosting glaze and crumbled brown Live Events and Open Mic $2 Karaoke Tuesdays Serving food specials until 2am T: 215.726.6464 www.dahlakrestaurant.com F: 215.726.0996 info@dahlakrestaurant.com sugar—baked on the premises during the weekend, the donuts were fresh, light and melt–in–your–mouth good. Don’t leave brunch without one. An added bonus is Gold Standard’s BYO status—you can order Bloody Mary mix ($3), margarita mix ($3) or a pitcher of the same fresh– squeezed orange juice ($6) for mimosas. We first tried the chorizo hash ($12), a hearty potato sausage hash with a kick of jalapeño flavor, topped with two runny eggs and creamy hollandaise sauce, balanced with fresh, toasted rye bread. Next, we went for the banana walnut pancakes ($8), a huge portion of fluffy, buttery bliss that makes itself a must–have. They were not too sweet and extremely filling. To test savory lunch offerings, we tried the restaurant–recommended hand–formed turkey burger THE GOLD STANDARD CAFE Cedar Park 4800 Baltimore Ave. (215) 727-8247 DON'T MISS: The homemade donuts. SKIP: The turkey burger. $$$$ ($8.50). Boasting organic meat from Lancaster Country, the burger was fresh and flavorful, but definitely underwhelming compared to the inventive breakfast dishes. The service was extremely attentive and friendly, despite the mad brunch rush. The range of eggs, pancakes, waffles, wraps, salads and other breakfast and lunch favorites may seem ordinary, but it will surprise you. Although a bit more of a trek than the campus brunch staples, The Gold Standard is totally worth the trip and certainly worth its weight in gold.
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Page 25 and 26: AFRICAN Abyssinia Ethiopian Restaur
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Page 33 and 34: have you heard about the INTERNET a
Page 35 and 36: GREEK/MEDITERRANEAN The Abbaye 637
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