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SOME THINGS ARE BETTER STATESIDE<br />
Keep it domestic with spectacular small plates in South Philadelphia<br />
BY KIMBERLY SCHREIBER | PHOTOS BY SARAH TSE<br />
Chef George Sabatino<br />
and his well–oiled<br />
crew at Stateside<br />
have mastered the art of small<br />
plates. I'm not the biggest<br />
fan of food in this format:<br />
small portions with two–<br />
digit prices tend to be hard<br />
to justify. So when a succession<br />
of small plates arrived at<br />
my table during my dinner at<br />
Stateside, what unfolded was<br />
the hybrid of a personalized<br />
tasting menu and a family–<br />
style smorgasbord coupled<br />
with my surprise and glee.<br />
First, an artfully crafted<br />
Chef’s Board ($25) provided<br />
an impeccable inauguration<br />
to the vibrant spectrum of<br />
flavors and textures offered<br />
at Stateside. While the cold<br />
lamb sausage was underwhelming,<br />
the beef cheek<br />
croquette, slathered with<br />
mushroom aioli, was in perfect<br />
equilibrium with an<br />
acidic garnish of pickled red<br />
onion. A small yet indulgent<br />
wedge of pungent American<br />
Brie, complemented by a<br />
drizzle of honey and a fennel<br />
mustard, provided a glimpse<br />
into Stateside’s vast offering<br />
of cheeses.<br />
A baby carrot and kale<br />
salad ($9) was a surprising<br />
favorite, decorated with glistening,<br />
ruby red pomegranate<br />
seeds and dotted with a<br />
refreshing ginger mousse.<br />
Its assertive acidity was juxtaposed<br />
with a smoked pork<br />
rillette ($10), topped with<br />
pickled cucumbers and jalapeños.<br />
The pork was wrapped<br />
up in fresh lettuce leaves,<br />
mitigating the richness of<br />
the meat and introducing a<br />
wonderful textural contrast.<br />
Next, a humble bowl of tender,<br />
roasted brussels sprouts<br />
($7) arrived, their inherent<br />
sweetness balanced by<br />
meaty wild mushrooms, red<br />
chili and toasted chestnuts.<br />
These miniature cabbages<br />
could convert an angry mob<br />
of brussels sprouts haters into<br />
an army of devout followers.<br />
Finally, flawlessly seared<br />
scallops ($14) lathered with<br />
nutty, brown butter, were<br />
creatively paired with sweet<br />
grapes, a cashew puree and<br />
roasted cauliflower. Nearly<br />
defeated by the savory portion<br />
of the meal, a few plush,<br />
warm sugar cookies ($7) off<br />
the dessert menu provided a<br />
University Court<br />
4618 Chester Avenue<br />
92%<br />
The Tenant<br />
Comes First!<br />
Sylvania Gardens<br />
414-24 S. 48th Street<br />
88%<br />
Heat, hot water, & gas included.<br />
Dogs & cats permitted—no charge!<br />
light finish to a hearty meal.<br />
Rife with uninhibited, ambitious<br />
flavors, the menu at<br />
Stateside is both inventive<br />
and accessible, matched by an<br />
excellent whiskey, wine and<br />
beer selection. The masterminds<br />
behind Stateside have<br />
a knack for taking unassum-<br />
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ing ingredients and giving<br />
them a starring role with the<br />
help of surprising supporting<br />
components. Regardless,<br />
Stateside’s status as one of<br />
Philadelphia’s most notable<br />
restaurants is well within this<br />
kitchen’s grasp.<br />
Ed note: Sabatino announced<br />
his last day at Stateside<br />
will be March 11th. He<br />
is planning to start his own<br />
restaurant.<br />
10%<br />
“One of the Best Japanese Restaurants<br />
in Philadelphia in 2012”<br />
Shiroi Hana<br />
BYOB<br />
STATESIDE<br />
South Philly<br />
1536 E. Passayunk Ave.<br />
(215) 551-2500<br />
DON'T MISS: Chef's Board<br />
SKIP: Late night eats, happy<br />
hour deals from 5-7<br />
$$$$ SPLURGE ALERT<br />
215-735-4444 222 S. 15th St www.shiroihana.com<br />
off at either restaurant<br />
when you mention this ad<br />
sushi<br />
modern korean-japanese tapas<br />
215-564-1114 1822 Callowhill St www.domarestaurant.com<br />
Dining Guide<br />
34TH STREET Magazine February 13, 2013<br />
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