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SOME THINGS ARE BETTER STATESIDE<br />

Keep it domestic with spectacular small plates in South Philadelphia<br />

BY KIMBERLY SCHREIBER | PHOTOS BY SARAH TSE<br />

Chef George Sabatino<br />

and his well–oiled<br />

crew at Stateside<br />

have mastered the art of small<br />

plates. I'm not the biggest<br />

fan of food in this format:<br />

small portions with two–<br />

digit prices tend to be hard<br />

to justify. So when a succession<br />

of small plates arrived at<br />

my table during my dinner at<br />

Stateside, what unfolded was<br />

the hybrid of a personalized<br />

tasting menu and a family–<br />

style smorgasbord coupled<br />

with my surprise and glee.<br />

First, an artfully crafted<br />

Chef’s Board ($25) provided<br />

an impeccable inauguration<br />

to the vibrant spectrum of<br />

flavors and textures offered<br />

at Stateside. While the cold<br />

lamb sausage was underwhelming,<br />

the beef cheek<br />

croquette, slathered with<br />

mushroom aioli, was in perfect<br />

equilibrium with an<br />

acidic garnish of pickled red<br />

onion. A small yet indulgent<br />

wedge of pungent American<br />

Brie, complemented by a<br />

drizzle of honey and a fennel<br />

mustard, provided a glimpse<br />

into Stateside’s vast offering<br />

of cheeses.<br />

A baby carrot and kale<br />

salad ($9) was a surprising<br />

favorite, decorated with glistening,<br />

ruby red pomegranate<br />

seeds and dotted with a<br />

refreshing ginger mousse.<br />

Its assertive acidity was juxtaposed<br />

with a smoked pork<br />

rillette ($10), topped with<br />

pickled cucumbers and jalapeños.<br />

The pork was wrapped<br />

up in fresh lettuce leaves,<br />

mitigating the richness of<br />

the meat and introducing a<br />

wonderful textural contrast.<br />

Next, a humble bowl of tender,<br />

roasted brussels sprouts<br />

($7) arrived, their inherent<br />

sweetness balanced by<br />

meaty wild mushrooms, red<br />

chili and toasted chestnuts.<br />

These miniature cabbages<br />

could convert an angry mob<br />

of brussels sprouts haters into<br />

an army of devout followers.<br />

Finally, flawlessly seared<br />

scallops ($14) lathered with<br />

nutty, brown butter, were<br />

creatively paired with sweet<br />

grapes, a cashew puree and<br />

roasted cauliflower. Nearly<br />

defeated by the savory portion<br />

of the meal, a few plush,<br />

warm sugar cookies ($7) off<br />

the dessert menu provided a<br />

University Court<br />

4618 Chester Avenue<br />

92%<br />

The Tenant<br />

Comes First!<br />

Sylvania Gardens<br />

414-24 S. 48th Street<br />

88%<br />

Heat, hot water, & gas included.<br />

Dogs & cats permitted—no charge!<br />

light finish to a hearty meal.<br />

Rife with uninhibited, ambitious<br />

flavors, the menu at<br />

Stateside is both inventive<br />

and accessible, matched by an<br />

excellent whiskey, wine and<br />

beer selection. The masterminds<br />

behind Stateside have<br />

a knack for taking unassum-<br />

Perfect for grad students!<br />

Studios: $675-$725/month<br />

1 bedroom: $775-$825/month<br />

LIKE US<br />

facebook.com/<br />

UniversityCityApartments<br />

On-site laundry facilities.<br />

24-hour maintenance.<br />

www.bergerproperties.org . 215.771.1036<br />

ing ingredients and giving<br />

them a starring role with the<br />

help of surprising supporting<br />

components. Regardless,<br />

Stateside’s status as one of<br />

Philadelphia’s most notable<br />

restaurants is well within this<br />

kitchen’s grasp.<br />

Ed note: Sabatino announced<br />

his last day at Stateside<br />

will be March 11th. He<br />

is planning to start his own<br />

restaurant.<br />

10%<br />

“One of the Best Japanese Restaurants<br />

in Philadelphia in 2012”<br />

Shiroi Hana<br />

BYOB<br />

STATESIDE<br />

South Philly<br />

1536 E. Passayunk Ave.<br />

(215) 551-2500<br />

DON'T MISS: Chef's Board<br />

SKIP: Late night eats, happy<br />

hour deals from 5-7<br />

$$$$ SPLURGE ALERT<br />

215-735-4444 222 S. 15th St www.shiroihana.com<br />

off at either restaurant<br />

when you mention this ad<br />

sushi<br />

modern korean-japanese tapas<br />

215-564-1114 1822 Callowhill St www.domarestaurant.com<br />

Dining Guide<br />

34TH STREET Magazine February 13, 2013<br />

9

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