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34TH STREET Magazine February 13, 2013 Dining Guide
18
HIGH TEQ–UILA
This upscale Mexican joint is far more interesting than its name would suggest
BY JOE PINSKER | PHOTOS BY ADRIAN FRANCO
There’s a problematic
phenomenon among
high–end Mexican
restaurants: they charge too
much and they give you too
little. And while the prices at
Tequilas, a decades–old Center
City fixture, may seem a
little steep—entrees hover
around $20—they’re more
than fair given the quality of
the food, the generosity of the
portions and the tastefulness
of the atmosphere.
A good place to start at
Tequilas—once you’ve taken
in the copper platters, Dia de
los Muertos statues and murals
of pastoral Mexican landscapes—is
with its namesake.
The bar serves up numerous
variations. We tried what
the house curiously calls the
“Short Rib,” a tangy, spicy,
full–flavored cocktail that expertly
paired tequila with jalapeño,
lime and pomegranate
molasses. Another highlight
NEW MENU
C O M I N G M AR C H 1, 2013!
Bring your appetite!
Free Quizo
Every Monday and Wednesday at
10PM. First in Philly!
was the Mojito Verde where
strong cucumber juice flavor
made for an unexpected and
interesting flavor combination.
The food at Tequilas is a
big draw as well; the word
that kept popping up in my
head was “fresh.” Lines of
Pablo Neruda’s poetry adorn
a menu where you can’t really
make a wrong choice. Even
before you need to make any
decisions, you’ll be given a
TEQUILAS
Center City
1602 Locust St.
(215) 546-0181
DON'T MISS: "Short Rib" cocktail;
Carne Aguacate.
SKIP: Dishes you've tried before.
This is a place to explore the
true diversity of Mexican cuisine.
$$$$ SPLURGE ALERT
basket of thick, crispy, homemade
tortilla chips and some
excellent salsa ranchera on the
side.
To start, we had the ceviche
($12.95) and the empanadas
del dia ($8.95). The ceviche
was served in a heaping pile
and was perfectly acidic. The
empanadas—today's version
was stuffed with beef tenderloin—are
most likely good
every other day of the week,
too.
When it came to entrees, we
stuck to the classics. The carne
aguacate ($23.95), a flank
steak drizzled with a creamy
avocado sauce, was straight–
up succulent. It was served
with a side of roasted potatoes
and cactus, a welcome change
of pace from most “nice restaurant”
side dishes. The mole
poblano ($20.95) was nearly as
satisfying. The rich, textured
mole sauce was excellent, but
cried out for a more tender
cut of chicken—thigh would
have done the trick.
By the time our dessert,
the “impossible cake,” was
brought out, we barely had
any room left. Still, we made
an effort for this half–flan,
half–chocolate cake, which
was good but not great.
In short, Tequilas offers a
dining experience with much
to enjoy and minimal mis–
stepping, which is crucial in
justifying its pricier menu.
Just remember: you could
very easily find ways to spend
far more money on far worse
food in Center City. Tequilas
is, for the most part, te–
killin’ it.