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CIDERS – DISCOVERY – At the height of the season, over one million tonnes of apples are harvested at the Cidrerie de la Brique, before being crushed so that the juice can be collected Cider: a whole host of choices waiting to be discovered Ciders are the perfect match for current drinking trends. Great for socialising, relatively low in alcohol, inexpensive and less mired in the pomp and circumstance that accompany wine tasting, they attract a wider clientele. Nine prominent French cider firms explain why. By Jean-Paul Burias - Photographs: courtesy of the estates - © Thierry Houyel - © Alice Bertrand 56 WINTER 2021 GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
CIDERS – DISCOVERY – In the west of France, the orchards of Normandy and Brittany are part and parcel of the landscape. This year’s apple harvest started quite late – at the beginning of October – and volumes are lower than in previous years due to a dull summer and adverse weather conditions. This is bad news for an industry providing 15,000 jobs and boasting 600 cider works, which has already had to cope with the pandemic and a drop in stocks. Cider is rooted in French tradition and has many assets. Produced by fermenting apple juice, its flavours and low alcohol content, ranging from 2 to 8% ABV, are a magnet for consumers. In France, apple orchards account for a quarter of all fruit orchards, equating to 35,000 hectares, 9,000 of which are planted to specific varieties for producing cider. At less than 2 litres per year per capita, French cider consumption is significantly lower than for wine or beer. This can be ascribed to its highly seasonal nature – sales peak at the beginning of the year and in the summer, and outside Brittany and Normandy consumption is relatively low. The marketing board and several brands have grasped the nettle by rolling out PR campaigns to promote cider and broaden the consumer base. We met the main players in a market that is decidedly bubbly! The La Sapinière cider works LA FERME DE LA SAPINIÈRE: A PASSION FOR CIDER Near the D-Day landing beaches and the American cemetery at Colleville-sur-Mer, the orchards belonging to Philippe and Michel Legallois invite visitors to discover the Ferme de la Sapinière. The two ‘flavour artisans’ have been producing Pommeau de Normandie, Calvados, apple juice and of course cider since 1991. “Our organically-farmed orchards are home to 35 different varieties of cider apples”, says Michel Legallois. “The ciders are vintage-labelled and produced by natural fermentation in the bottle with no added carbon dioxide”. Here, customer relations are prioritised. Cellar door sales account for 70% of the total and exports 4%, mainly to Germany, Belgium and Mexico. Apple Oak is a naturally fermented cider. It matures for the first 5 months in tanks, then it ferments in relatively new Cognac barrels. The resultant cider shows distinctive balance between fine tannins and acidity, delicate effervescence and a long finish driven by notes of mature spirits. Michel Legallois of the La Sapinière WINTER 2021 GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 57
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CAVA ALTA ALELLA, A CULTURE OF EXCE
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CONTENTS - COLUMNS • REPORTS - 8
Page 5 and 6: EDITORIAL - PHILIPPE GAILLARD - Edi
Page 7 and 8: Cavavin N°46_Mise en page 1 27/11/
Page 9 and 10: PERFECT HARMONY - CIGARS AND CAPE B
Page 11 and 12: CHAMPAGNE - STYLES - Reserve wines
Page 13 and 14: CHAMPAGNE - STYLES - an opportunity
Page 15 and 16: TASTING TASTING — RARE BOTTLE —
Page 17 and 18: CHAMPAGNE - STYLES - some oddities.
Page 19 and 20: CHAMPAGNE - STYLES - Mathilda Tedes
Page 21 and 22: CHAMPAGNE - STYLES - WINTER 2021 GI
Page 23 and 24: CHAMPAGNE - STYLES - Odilon de Vari
Page 25 and 26: CHAMPAGNE - STYLES - Nicollas Vall
Page 27 and 28: MAKE SOME ROOM IN YOUR LOUNGE FOR W
Page 29 and 30: RHONE VALLEY - BLENDING - Château
Page 31 and 32: Olivier Rouquet at Isolette RHONE V
Page 33 and 34: RHONE VALLEY - BLENDING - Edouard G
Page 35 and 36: RHONE VALLEY - BLENDING - appellati
Page 37 and 38: VINS DE FRANCE - INNOVATION - Harve
Page 39 and 40: VINS DE FRANCE - INNOVATION - repre
Page 41 and 42: VINS DE FRANCE - INNOVATION - even
Page 43 and 44: VINS DE FRANCE - INNOVATION - DOMAI
Page 45 and 46: Sweeping vistas of the Tour Castill
Page 47 and 48: BORDEAUX - TRAVEL - taken, none of
Page 49 and 50: A hot-air balloon display at Châte
Page 51 and 52: BORDEAUX - TRAVEL - Sébastien Mont
Page 53 and 54: BORDEAUX BORDEAUX - WINE GROWER POR
Page 55: “The most important thing is to h
Page 59 and 60: CIDERS - DISCOVERY - in Normandy. E
Page 61 and 62: Michel Legallois in his cider works
Page 63 and 64: CIDERS - DISCOVERY - Dominique Le B
Page 65 and 66: HUNGARY - RENAISSANCE - The desicca
Page 67 and 68: HUNGARY - RENAISSANCE - Samuel Tino
Page 69 and 70: HUNGARY - RENAISSANCE - Vivien Ujv
Page 71 and 72: HUNGARY - RENAISSANCE - Brother and
Page 73 and 74: HUNGARY - RENAISSANCE - Zoltán Dem
Page 75 and 76: SPAIN - DESIGNATION - Clusters of g
Page 77 and 78: SPAIN - DESIGNATION - Josep Maria B
Page 79 and 80: SPAIN - DESIGNATION - in terms of c
Page 81 and 82: SPAIN - DESIGNATION - RAMON CANALS
Page 83 and 84: SPAIN - DESIGNATION - One of the in
Page 85 and 86: PORTUGAL - MARKETS - José Luis Oli
Page 87 and 88: Casa Santos Lima’s vineyards with
Page 89 and 90: PORTUGAL - MARKETS - Hillside viney
Page 91 and 92: ITALY - DISCOVERY - Although Primit
Page 93 and 94: ITALY - DISCOVERY - The Montanaro f
Page 95 and 96: ITALY - DISCOVERY - climate is char
Page 97 and 98: ITALY - DISCOVERY - Podere Don Cata
Page 99 and 100: ITALY - DISCOVERY - non-experts ali
Page 101 and 102: ITALY - NEW APPELLATION - In actual
Page 103 and 104: ITALY - NEW APPELLATION - Armando S
Page 105 and 106: ITALY - NEW APPELLATION - Serena Wi
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ITALY - NEW APPELLATION - The Manza
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ITALY - NEW APPELLATION - Valerio C
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The South African viticultural land
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SOUTH AFRICA - NEW VARIETIES - ‘I
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SOUTH AFRICA - NEW VARIETIES - At c
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SOUTH AFRICA - NEW VARIETIES - bree
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SOUTH AFRICA - NEW VARIETIES - Crem
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STARS - & WINE - Courteney Cox: “
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CONTACT - DETAILS - CIGARS - PAGES
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Pages 126 to 138 TOP WINES OUR SELE
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FRANCE - Champagne PUBS_CUVEES_G&G_
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FRANCE - Champagne CHAMPAGNE RÉMI
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FRANCE - Champagne Dom Caudron’s
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SPAIN - Catalonia SPAIN OUR WINTER
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ITALY - Venetian ITALY OUR WINTER S
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1 06/12/2021 10:00 Page 2 ITALY - V
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