Cosmetic Surgery and Beauty Magazine #63
Cosmetic Surgery & Beauty Magazine is the definitive guide to the aesthetic medicine industry for anyone considering a treatment therapy or surgical procedure. This quality quarterly publication contains comprehensive information about practitioners, equipment, techniques, processes and options, presented clearly and completely. The strong emphasis on input by industry professionals provides profiles of the practitioners and understanding of their approach to each procedure, enabling readers to make informed choices in their initial approaches to deciding what will best suit their needs. Hundreds of untouched before-and-after photographs provided by the practitioners themselves graphically illustrate both treatable conditions and the results that can be obtained. Cosmetic Surgery & Beauty Magazine is essential reading for anyone wishing to inform themselves about the options available in aesthetic medicine in Australia.
Cosmetic Surgery & Beauty Magazine is the definitive guide to the aesthetic medicine industry for anyone considering a treatment therapy or surgical procedure. This quality quarterly publication contains comprehensive information about practitioners, equipment, techniques, processes and options, presented clearly and completely. The strong emphasis on input by industry professionals provides profiles of the practitioners and understanding of their approach to each procedure, enabling readers to make informed choices in their initial approaches to deciding what will best suit their needs. Hundreds of untouched before-and-after photographs provided by the practitioners themselves graphically illustrate both treatable conditions and the results that can be obtained. Cosmetic Surgery & Beauty Magazine is essential reading for anyone wishing to inform themselves about the options available in aesthetic medicine in Australia.
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RRP $14.95 (incl. GST) (NZ $15.95 incl. GST)<br />
ISSUE 63 • FEB-APRIL 2014<br />
IS IT<br />
REALLY<br />
POSSIBLE<br />
TO STOP<br />
THE CLOCK?<br />
our<br />
top10<br />
AGE BUSTING<br />
PROCEDURES<br />
ISSN 1834-383X<br />
9 771833 383011<br />
03<br />
BEAUTY KIT<br />
2014<br />
essentials<br />
LIGHT<br />
SHOW<br />
YOUR GUIDE TO<br />
LASER AND IPL<br />
NON-SURGICAL<br />
NOSE RESHAPING<br />
SPECIAL FEATURE<br />
ANTI<br />
AGEING<br />
FEEL BETTER, LOOK YOUNGER
acTual rhiNoplasTy paTiENT’s oF dr William mooNEy<br />
DR WILLIAM MOONEY<br />
ENT & Facial cosmETic surgEoN<br />
sydNEy’s rhiNoplasTy spEcialisT<br />
www.drwilliammooney.com.au<br />
FACE PLUS MEDISPA<br />
• Laser Therapy • skin Care<br />
• CosmeTiC injeCTabLes<br />
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Ph: (02) 9389 4497<br />
FOLLOW DR MOONEY ON:
EXc E llENc E<br />
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DR JOSEPH GEORGHY<br />
AMEC Specialist Surgeon (Ljubljana, Slovenia)<br />
B.Sc. General <strong>Surgery</strong> (Zagreb, Croatia) Fellow<br />
of the European Society of Aesthetic <strong>Surgery</strong>,<br />
<strong>Cosmetic</strong> Physician; FFMACCS, Degree in Anti-<br />
Aging & Regenerative Medicine (Germany) Member<br />
of the American Academy of <strong>Cosmetic</strong> <strong>Surgery</strong><br />
DR VERA GEORGHY<br />
Dental Surgeon, University of Adelaide,<br />
Fellow, Diplomate & Lifetime Member in<br />
the World Congress of Minimally Invasive<br />
Dentistry (WCMID).<br />
Voted Clinician of the Year 2009 San<br />
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313 Pacifi c Highway<br />
North Sydney NSW 2060 (Opposite Hazelbank Rd)<br />
02 9956 7200<br />
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email: doctors@sydneycosmetic.com
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Reveal Your Inner <strong>Beauty</strong><br />
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Prosthodontics<br />
& Implant <strong>Surgery</strong><br />
DESIGNER SMILES TM<br />
Centre for cosmetic, reconstructive<br />
<strong>and</strong> implant dentistry<br />
Dr Sarkis Nalb<strong>and</strong>ian completed his Bachelor of Dental <strong>Surgery</strong> with<br />
Honours in 1983 <strong>and</strong> Diploma in Clinical Dentistry (Oral Implants) in<br />
2000 at The University of Sydney. He also completed his Masters in<br />
Prosthodontics in 2004 at the prestigious King’s College, University<br />
of London with distinction. He is a fellow of the Royal Australasian<br />
College of Dental Surgeons.<br />
B.D.S. (Hons.) Uni.Syd.<br />
FRACDS<br />
Grad. Dip. Clin. Dent. (Oral Implants) Uni.Syd.<br />
M.Clin.Dent (Prosthodontics) King’s College Uni. London<br />
Dr Nalb<strong>and</strong>ian specialises in Dental Implants <strong>and</strong> Prosthodontics<br />
for treating simple to complex dental, functional <strong>and</strong> aesthetic<br />
problems.<br />
He lectures on topics including Dental Implantology, Prosthodontics<br />
<strong>and</strong> Implant <strong>Surgery</strong>.<br />
He maintains a specialised practice in Sydney limited to Aesthetics,<br />
Prosthodontics & Implant <strong>Surgery</strong>.<br />
Dr Sarkis Nalb<strong>and</strong>ian<br />
B.D.S. (Hons.) Dip. Clin. Dent. (Oral Implants) Uni.Syd. FRACDS<br />
M.Clin.Dent (Prosthodontics) King’s College Uni.London<br />
Designer Smiles<br />
17 Gerard Street Cremorne NSW 2090<br />
For more information call<br />
02 9953 4189<br />
Fax 02 9953 4358<br />
www.designersmiles.com.au
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cosmedic&<br />
Dr John Flynn<br />
skin clinic<br />
Reshaping can create<br />
cosmedic&<br />
the look you want<br />
skin clinic<br />
Breast augmentation can<br />
enhance the natural size<br />
<strong>and</strong> shape of your breasts<br />
Refinement in <strong>Cosmetic</strong> <strong>Surgery</strong><br />
With breast augmentation, your natural form can be<br />
enhanced <strong>and</strong> complemented. This results in a balanced<br />
<strong>and</strong> symmetrical effect that suits your individual body type<br />
<strong>and</strong> achieves a feminine silhouette.<br />
Liposuction to Shape <strong>and</strong> Contour<br />
With liposuction, Dr John Flynn can reshape <strong>and</strong> contour<br />
your form to achieve balance between your body’s<br />
proportions. Areas such as the abdomen <strong>and</strong> inner <strong>and</strong><br />
outer thighs respond particularly well to this procedure.<br />
CERTIFIED<br />
IN COSMETIC<br />
SURGERY<br />
Dr John Flynn<br />
M.B., B.S., Dip. R.A.C.O.G., F.R.A.C.G.P.<br />
Dip. P. Dermatology., F.A.C.C.S.<br />
Fellow of the Australasian College of <strong>Cosmetic</strong> <strong>Surgery</strong><br />
Certified by the American Board of Laser <strong>Surgery</strong><br />
Dr John Flynn has over 20 years of experience as<br />
a medical practitioner on the Gold Coast<br />
AD Flynn.indd 1<br />
CERTIFIED<br />
IN COSMETIC<br />
SURGERY<br />
20/4/09 9:01:39 AM<br />
AD Flynn.indd 1<br />
For more information or to make an<br />
appointment call Cosmedic <strong>and</strong> Skin Clinic<br />
1300 88 13 88<br />
Southport | Gold Coast<br />
Suite 2, 98 Marine Pde, Southport 4215<br />
www.cosmedic.com.au | info@cosmedic.com.au<br />
Dr John Flynn<br />
20/4/09 9:01:39 AM<br />
cosmedic& skin clinic<br />
Dr John Flynn
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contents<br />
regulars<br />
26 Editor’s letter<br />
28 Contributors<br />
30 Newsfront<br />
48 Where does that come from?<br />
The tragic tale of Lady Hastings<br />
123 How to subscribe<br />
178 Directory<br />
features<br />
52 Penned in ink<br />
The colourful history of tattoos<br />
56 7 skin sins<br />
Lifestyle choices to avoid<br />
58 Stop the clock<br />
The future of anti-ageing is here<br />
62 Ins <strong>and</strong> outs of facial ageing<br />
How, <strong>and</strong> why, we age<br />
66 Top 10 anti-ageing procedures<br />
72 5 steps for successful surgery<br />
Preparation is paramount<br />
106 What makes a<br />
beautiful breast?<br />
The four key pillars<br />
126 Light show<br />
Your backstage pass to laser<br />
<strong>and</strong> light therapy<br />
150 Ageing by numbers<br />
What to look out for as you age<br />
industry<br />
34 Laser Conference<br />
Behind the scenes at the Laser<br />
& <strong>Cosmetic</strong> Medicine meeting<br />
40 4 ways to boost business<br />
Easy ways to optimise<br />
your clinic<br />
44 Cosmetex 2014<br />
What’s on the agenda<br />
46 Setting the benchmark<br />
Motives <strong>and</strong> missions of<br />
the ACCS<br />
face<br />
76 Preserving youth<br />
Natural-looking facelifts<br />
78 Is it time for surgery?<br />
80 <strong>Beauty</strong> through the ages<br />
Bespoke facial beautification<br />
85 <strong>Beauty</strong> from within<br />
An innovative filler<br />
88 The future is here<br />
The many uses for PRP<br />
90 A modern approach<br />
Combination approach<br />
92 Facelift without surgery?<br />
Thread lifting explained<br />
94 Facial defining surgery<br />
Ethnic surgery<br />
96 Rebuild from within<br />
All about Sculptra<br />
nose<br />
98 More than a nose job<br />
Rhinoplasty as an<br />
anti-ageing procedure<br />
100 Nose for beauty<br />
Form <strong>and</strong> function converge<br />
102 Nose reshaping<br />
without surgery<br />
teeth<br />
104 Smile rebuilt<br />
Creating a beautiful smile<br />
breasts<br />
108 A surgeon’s perspective<br />
112 Age-defying augmentation<br />
Creating youthful silhouettes<br />
114 Lasting results<br />
All about P-URE implants<br />
body<br />
116 Post-baby tummy tuck<br />
118 The ‘Western<br />
Society’ Syndrome<br />
An innovative approach to<br />
metabolic syndrome
Dr Benjamin Norris<br />
is an internationally renowned<br />
cosmetic <strong>and</strong> plastic surgeon<br />
who has trained in Australia<br />
<strong>and</strong> overseas.<br />
He is a Fellow of the Royal<br />
Australasian College of Surgeons,<br />
a member of the Australian<br />
Society of Plastic Surgeons<br />
<strong>and</strong> the Australasian Society<br />
of Aesthetic Plastic <strong>Surgery</strong>.<br />
He specialises in the creation of<br />
beautiful, natural-looking breasts<br />
that result in a well-proportioned,<br />
harmonious body.<br />
Dr Norris aims to establish a<br />
close doctor/patient rapport<br />
so that each woman can feel<br />
comfortable knowing she will<br />
achieve the result she desires.<br />
Dr Benjamin Norris<br />
<strong>Cosmetic</strong> <strong>and</strong> Plastic Surgeon<br />
MBCHB, FRACS<br />
Bondi Junction | Bella Vista | form<strong>and</strong>face.com.au | (02) 8916 7328<br />
Actual Patient of Dr Norris
Cover63_FINALX 2.indd 2<br />
31/01/14 5:11 PM<br />
subscribe now!<br />
contents<br />
The first 10 subscribers receive a free<br />
Kiehl’s Ultra Facial Cream valued at $34 each<br />
Kiehl’s introduces its new Ultra Facial Cream, in store March 2014<br />
Kiehl’s presents its latest innovation, Ultra Facial Cream Intense Hydration for drier<br />
skin types, a revolutionary extra lightweight formula, with proven results in just one<br />
week. Drawing upon over 160 years of skin hydration expertise, Kiehl’s chemists<br />
have developed a new formula specifically for drier skin types, that imparts deep<br />
hydration in a surprisingly lightweight architecture.<br />
This new formulation provides improved 24-hour hydration <strong>and</strong> leaves skin looking<br />
visibly smoother. Instrumental results showed significant improvement in skin<br />
hydration <strong>and</strong> skin barrier protection in 100 percent of subjects. Clinical results<br />
demonstrated significant improvements on visible skin dryness in just seven days.<br />
see page 123<br />
intimate surgery<br />
120 Your body, your choice<br />
Empowering women<br />
with options<br />
122 Private matters<br />
Genital surgery explained<br />
skin<br />
125 Light-based therapy<br />
IPL <strong>and</strong> laser light combined<br />
130 Fractionated rejuvenation<br />
Fraxel laser in action<br />
132 Lift, tone & tighten<br />
A non-surgical approach<br />
134 Age eraser<br />
Reduce wrinkles without surgery<br />
136 Leaders in light therapy<br />
Focus on Omnilux<br />
138 Rolling back the years<br />
Latest in microneedling<br />
140 Love the skin you’re in<br />
Holistic approach to anti-ageing<br />
hair reduction<br />
144 One for the blondes<br />
Breakthrough in technology<br />
cosmetic tattoo<br />
146 Living art<br />
The many benefits of<br />
cosmetic tattooing<br />
skincare<br />
148 4 steps to beautiful skin<br />
Latest skincare range<br />
152 The three Ts of ageing<br />
Tone, texture <strong>and</strong> tightness<br />
154 Stop premature ageing<br />
Combat sun-damaged skin<br />
158 Conquer pigmentation<br />
New cutting edge treatment<br />
161 Leaders in skin health<br />
Q & A with Obagi chief scientist<br />
beauty & spa<br />
164 Red carpet-ready hair<br />
168 Age-defying makeup tricks<br />
170 Message in a bottle<br />
What your perfume signifies<br />
172 DIY spa sanctuary<br />
174 <strong>Beauty</strong> buzz<br />
Latest products for 2014<br />
177 Editor’s faves<br />
cover stories<br />
RRP $14.95 (incl. GST) (NZ $15.95 incl. GST)<br />
ISSUE 63 • FEB-APRIL 2014<br />
IS IT<br />
REALLY<br />
POSSIBLE<br />
TO STOP<br />
THE CLOCK?<br />
our<br />
top<br />
AGE BUSTING<br />
PROCEDURES<br />
ISSN 1834-383X<br />
9 771833 383011<br />
10<br />
03<br />
2014<br />
BEAUTY KIT<br />
essentials<br />
LIGHT<br />
SHOW<br />
YOUR GUIDE TO<br />
LASER AND IPL<br />
NON-SURGICAL<br />
NOSE RESHAPING<br />
SPECIAL FEATURE<br />
ANTI<br />
AGEING<br />
FEEL BETTER, LOOK YOUNGER<br />
58 Is it really possible to<br />
stop the clock?<br />
66 Our top 10 agebusting<br />
procedures<br />
102 Non-surgical nose reshaping<br />
126 Light show – your guide to<br />
laser <strong>and</strong> IPL<br />
174 2014 beauty kit essentials<br />
Now you can subscribe online at<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au
cosmelan ®<br />
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LETTER<br />
FROM THE EDITOR<br />
Welcome to our annual Anti-Ageing issue. One of my mantras<br />
has always been that feeling attractive on the outside has<br />
a very strong psychological effect on our confi dence <strong>and</strong><br />
Wself-esteem. The psychology of looking good – not for others, but<br />
for yourself – is an important aspect of our lives. Whether through<br />
makeup, exercise or cosmetic enhancement, the power to transform<br />
your look goes more than skin deep – it can be an immediate boost<br />
to self-esteem. Indeed, the more attractive we feel, the more positive<br />
<strong>and</strong> confi dent we are.<br />
I experienced this recently when I attended a makeup masterclass<br />
in Auckl<strong>and</strong> <strong>and</strong> was given a ‘glamorising’ makeover. The before <strong>and</strong><br />
after results are amazing – <strong>and</strong> really took my confi dence up a notch. Turn to page 50 to<br />
see my transformation!<br />
Our Anti-Ageing special is all about transformation, reversing the signs of ageing so that<br />
the vitality we feel on the inside can refl ect on the outside. In our Stop The Clock feature<br />
on page 58 we keep you up to date on the latest breakthroughs in regenerative medicine<br />
<strong>and</strong> the remarkable potential of internal medicine to help slow down the ageing process.<br />
It’s not just the outside that’s important, but the inside even more so.<br />
In our Top 10 Anti-Ageing Procedures on page 66, we guide you through the most<br />
popular ways to take years off your appearance – both surgically <strong>and</strong> non-surgically. For<br />
the right c<strong>and</strong>idate <strong>and</strong> for the right reasons, today’s ever-exp<strong>and</strong>ing anti-ageing treatments<br />
<strong>and</strong> procedures can help us reclaim a fresh, vibrant <strong>and</strong> more youthful appearance.<br />
Light-based therapy is ever evolving – <strong>and</strong> increasing in popularity. In our feature on<br />
page 126, we shed light on lasers, IPL <strong>and</strong> LED <strong>and</strong> demystify the science behind these<br />
skin treatments <strong>and</strong> how they work. We also have a section devoted to results-driven,<br />
quality skincare (from page 148) so that you can maintain <strong>and</strong> optimise the results of your<br />
chosen treatment.<br />
As usual, you’ll fi nd before <strong>and</strong> after case studies <strong>and</strong> authoritative information on all<br />
areas of cosmetic enhancement. You’ll also love our beauty & spa features, showcasing<br />
the latest beauty products <strong>and</strong> makeup tips to ring in 2014 in style.<br />
Plus, visit www.cosbeauty.com.au to get your daily cosmetic enhancement <strong>and</strong> beauty<br />
fi x <strong>and</strong> keep up to date with what’s happening in the industry.<br />
Michelle Kearney<br />
Editor-in-Chief<br />
michelle@bellamedia.com.au<br />
Issue 63<br />
FEB - APRIL 2014<br />
Editor-in-Chief<br />
Michelle Kearney<br />
Editorial Director<br />
Aimée Surtenich<br />
Production Coordinator<br />
Camila Kawashita<br />
Art Directors<br />
Debbie Pilarinos,<br />
Stéphanie Bl<strong>and</strong>in de Chalain<br />
Writers<br />
Caitlin Bishop, Tara Casey,<br />
Nicola Donovan, Lizzy Fowler,<br />
Aimée Surtenich<br />
Photographers<br />
Debbie Pilarinos, ShutterStock<br />
Distribution &<br />
Subscription Enquiries<br />
Bill Dunk<br />
Phone 02 9398 2755 Fax 02 9398 2855<br />
Email acsmag@bellamedia.com.au<br />
Advertising Enquiries<br />
Michelle Kearney<br />
Phone 02 9398 2755 Mob 0419 624 246<br />
Email michelle@bellamedia.com.au<br />
Editorial Enquiries<br />
Michelle Kearney, Aimée Surtenich<br />
Phone 02 9398 2755 Fax 02 9398 2855<br />
Email acsmag@bellamedia.com.au<br />
Produced & Published by Bella Media<br />
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company or in Australian <strong>Cosmetic</strong> <strong>Surgery</strong> & <strong>Beauty</strong> <strong>Magazine</strong> (ACSBM). Reproduction in whole or in part is not permitted without<br />
the written authorisation of the publisher. All reasonable efforts have been made to trace copyright holders. All manuscripts <strong>and</strong><br />
articles submitted for publication remain the property of The Bella Media Group. This magazine contains general information only <strong>and</strong><br />
does not purport to be a substitute for medical advice. All readers are advised to seek medical advice from a doctor if considering<br />
cosmetic surgery. The publisher <strong>and</strong> the authors do not accept any liability whatsoever in respect of an action taken by readers in<br />
reliance on the recommendations set out in this magazine. Except where specifi ed in captions, photographs depict models who have<br />
not necessarily received treatments described in this magazine.<br />
Advertising Policy ACSBM follows <strong>and</strong> upholds the Australian Competition <strong>and</strong> Consumer Commission (ACCC) Guidelines to<br />
Advertising Medical Services, the Therapeutic Goods Administration (TGA) advertising regulations for therapeutic goods <strong>and</strong> services,<br />
<strong>and</strong> individual state Medical Board guidelines. All reasonable effort is made by ACSBM to ensure that all advertisements accepted<br />
for publication follow these guidelines. Copies of these guidelines are available from the individual agencies <strong>and</strong> boards. ACSBM<br />
reserves the right to reject advertising that is in breach of these guidelines. All ACSBM advertisers assume sole responsibility <strong>and</strong><br />
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Office address<br />
Level 1, 42a Frenchmans Road<br />
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Phone +61 2 9398 2755 Fax +61 2 9398 2855<br />
www.bellamedia.com.au<br />
All ‘before <strong>and</strong> after’ photographs in<br />
Australian <strong>Cosmetic</strong> <strong>Surgery</strong> <strong>Magazine</strong><br />
articles are of genuine patients. It is<br />
important to underst<strong>and</strong> that they represent<br />
one person’s experience <strong>and</strong> there is<br />
no guarantee that any other patient will<br />
experience similar results.<br />
26
Expertise is Everything<br />
More than 30 Years Experience in <strong>Cosmetic</strong> Plastic <strong>Surgery</strong><br />
Specialising in all Facial, Breast <strong>and</strong> Body <strong>Surgery</strong><br />
The <strong>Cosmetic</strong> <strong>and</strong><br />
Restorative <strong>Surgery</strong> Clinic<br />
20 Manning Road,<br />
Double Bay<br />
02 9362 7400<br />
Fax: 02 9328 6036<br />
Email: info@cosmeticsurgeryoz.com<br />
Dr Darryl J Hodgkinson<br />
MB, BS (Hons), FRCS (C), FACS, FACCS<br />
American Board of Plastic <strong>Surgery</strong><br />
<strong>Cosmetic</strong> Plastic Surgeon<br />
www.cosmeticsurgeryoz.com<br />
The definitive website for all your cosmetic surgical queries. More than 50<br />
megabytes of information <strong>and</strong> hundreds of Dr Hodgkinson’s outst<strong>and</strong>ing results.
CONTRIBUTORS<br />
CONTRIBUTORS<br />
CONTRIBUTORS<br />
CONTRIBUTORS<br />
CONTRIBUTORS<br />
CONTRIBUTORS Ricky Allen Dr Buddy Beaini Laurence Dryer<br />
Dr Ross Farhadieh Dr John Flynn Dr Joseph Georghy Val Glover-Hovan Dr Doug Grose<br />
Dr Darryl Hodgkinson Suzie Hoitink Eva Karpati Dr Jim Leavesley Dr Steven Liew<br />
Dr William Mooney Dr Colin Moore Dr Pouria Moradi Dr Sarkis Nalb<strong>and</strong>ian Dr Warwick Nettle<br />
Dr Benjamin Norris Dr Oseka Onuma Dr Alex Phoon Rita Porreca Terri Vinson<br />
28 www.cosbeauty.com.au
newsfront<br />
NEWSFRONT<br />
CATCH UP WITH THE LATEST IN THE INDUSTRY...<br />
BREAST CANCER SURVIVORS &<br />
SURGEONS PADDLE FOR BRA DAY<br />
Australia’s inaugural BRA (Breast<br />
Reconstruction Awareness) Day was<br />
held on 26 November, 2013 at the<br />
Sugaroom Restaurant & Wine Bar in<br />
Pyrmont, Sydney.<br />
Breast cancer survivors were able<br />
to learn more about reconstruction<br />
options <strong>and</strong> hear inspiring stories from<br />
breast cancer survivors <strong>and</strong> members<br />
of Dragons Abreast Australia, a national<br />
organisation comprised of breast cancer<br />
survivors (<strong>and</strong> their supporters) who all<br />
participate in the team sport of dragon<br />
boat racing.<br />
Started in Canada in 2011, BRA<br />
Day has gained signifi cant attention<br />
across North America as an annual event<br />
that promotes awareness <strong>and</strong> access<br />
to post-mastectomy reconstructive<br />
breast surgery.<br />
The Australian Society of Plastic<br />
Surgeons (ASPS) has partnered with the<br />
organisation Dragons Abreast Sydney<br />
to help educate people about the<br />
range of breast reconstruction options<br />
following cancer. In Australia, around<br />
5,000 women have a mastectomy each<br />
year, but a mere six to 12 percent of<br />
these go on to have a reconstruction.<br />
This compares with 42 percent of<br />
women in the United States.<br />
‘The fact that around only one in<br />
10 women is electing to have a breast<br />
reconstruction suggests not enough<br />
women are aware of the options available<br />
to them; some are fearful of further<br />
surgery; or it’s simply not being offered<br />
as an option,’ says President of the<br />
Australian Society of Plastic Surgeons,<br />
Dr Geoff Lyons.<br />
‘Having a breast reconstruction is an<br />
individual choice, <strong>and</strong> while some women<br />
will decide they simply don’t want to do<br />
so, it’s important women - <strong>and</strong> men - who<br />
are about to undergo a mastectomy are<br />
aware of the all the available options so<br />
they can make an informed choice,’ he<br />
continues. ‘For instance, many women<br />
are unaware that there may be benefi ts<br />
to having their reconstruction performed<br />
at the same time as the mastectomy to<br />
reduce anaesthesia time <strong>and</strong> to allow<br />
the breast surgeon <strong>and</strong> plastic surgeon<br />
to work together to produce an optimal<br />
result. Equally, breast reconstructions<br />
are available in the public system <strong>and</strong><br />
claimable under Medicare.<br />
‘BRA Day has turned into an important<br />
event around the world, <strong>and</strong> the<br />
Australian Society of Plastic Surgeons<br />
is delighted to launch the initiative in<br />
Australia,’ says Dr Lyons.<br />
A comprehensive fact sheet covering<br />
all aspects of breast reconstruction<br />
is available on the ASPS website:<br />
www.plasticsurgery.org.au.<br />
Lumenis UltraPulse helps burns survivor in Perth<br />
Dana Vulin suffered severe burns to her body <strong>and</strong> neck<br />
when she was set on fi re in her Perth apartment in early<br />
2012. ‘The day I was set on fi re not just my body was<br />
burned… my hopes, my dreams <strong>and</strong> future ambitions all<br />
burned,’ she says.<br />
Lumenis Australia has been working with Dana on<br />
her scar recovery treatments with the new module on<br />
the UltraPulse CO 2<br />
laser. The UltraPulse’s capability to<br />
remodel scars offers a breakthrough in scar reduction<br />
technology – <strong>and</strong> in restoring hope to burns victims.<br />
30 www.cosbeauty.com.au
Upcoming<br />
Events<br />
23-24 March 2014 - Salon Melbourne With the latest<br />
products, shows <strong>and</strong> fashion parades, education <strong>and</strong><br />
entertainment, Salon Melbourne has evolved into a onestop-shop<br />
for everyone in the trade to source, learn <strong>and</strong><br />
be inspired. Free entry, trade only. For more information<br />
see www.salonmelbourne.com.au<br />
1-5 May 2014 - Cosmetex is the largest<br />
scientific conference in Australasia devoted exclusively to<br />
cosmetic medicine <strong>and</strong> cosmetic surgery.<br />
For more information see www.cosmetex.org<br />
8-11 May 2014 - ASAPS Non-Surgical Symposium<br />
The Australasian Society of Aesthetic Plastic <strong>Surgery</strong><br />
(ASAPS) <strong>and</strong> the <strong>Cosmetic</strong> Physicians Society of<br />
Australasia Inc. (CPSA) join forces to deliver an<br />
educational event dedicated to non-surgical aesthetics.<br />
For more information see www.asapsevents.org<br />
Merz acquires Swiss<br />
aesthetic company Anteis<br />
Merz Pharma Group has purchased the Swiss<br />
company Anteis, developers <strong>and</strong> manufacturers of<br />
biomedical products in the area of aesthetics.<br />
This completes a union of two companies that have<br />
been working in strong <strong>and</strong> trustworthy partnership<br />
for many years. The acquisition strengthens Merz<br />
Aesthetics’ portfolio <strong>and</strong> reinforces its market position<br />
in the field of aesthetic medicine, making it one of the<br />
leading providers worldwide.<br />
worth a read<br />
Your Skin Factory<br />
Industry gurus Dr Des Fern<strong>and</strong>es <strong>and</strong><br />
Jennifer Monro guide you through the<br />
mind-boggling science <strong>and</strong> ‘marketing<br />
speak’ to get straight to the point of<br />
how skin works <strong>and</strong> what it needs to<br />
stay looking its best. It’s an innovative<br />
<strong>and</strong> enjoyable read that offers a backto-basics<br />
guide to skin management.
newsfront<br />
A cure for baldness?<br />
US researchers say they are a step closer to fi nding<br />
a cure for baldness. In what they call a world-fi rst, a<br />
team of researchers at the University of Pennsylvania’s<br />
Perelman School of Medicine successfully converted<br />
adult cells into stem cells that regrew human skin cells,<br />
hair follicles <strong>and</strong> hair shafts.<br />
The research team, led by Professor George Xu,<br />
implanted the converted stem cells (called epithelial<br />
stem cells, which better facilitate hair regrowth) onto<br />
mice. Those cells, when grafted onto the mice, grew<br />
the human skin <strong>and</strong> the hair follicles, which researchers<br />
say were ‘structurally similar to human hair’.<br />
‘There are two parts to regenerating human hair,<br />
however’ said Dr Xu. ‘The fi rst is developing the outer<br />
structures with the epithelial cells. Next is a second set<br />
of cells, called dermal papillae cells, which assist in facilitating growth. So<br />
far, we cannot make the dermal part. And we’re working on it.’<br />
While the results are encouraging, Dr Xu says it may take fi ve to<br />
10 years for his team to be able to unlock the creation of dermal papillae<br />
stem cells <strong>and</strong> then provide a viable way to regenerate a person’s<br />
own hair – <strong>and</strong> reverse baldness.<br />
NEW FACES AT HIGH TECH LASER<br />
High Tech Laser has added two new equipment specialists<br />
to their nationwide team. Sharni Fanner joins High Tech<br />
Laser as the cosmetic medicine <strong>and</strong> aesthetic specialist<br />
for Victoria <strong>and</strong> NSW, <strong>and</strong> Michael Raghib takes on the<br />
role of medical <strong>and</strong> dental specialist in NSW.<br />
‘Our range includes some of the best non-<br />
surgical treatments in the world, <strong>and</strong> the addition of<br />
Sharni <strong>and</strong> Michael to our team will ensure clinics using<br />
our equipment can continue to bring their patients the<br />
most advanced non-surgical treatments available,’ said<br />
High Tech Laser Managing Director Matt Moncrieff.<br />
For more information on High Tech Laser visit<br />
www.likeyourlook.com.au or call 1300 309 233<br />
DID YOU KNOW?<br />
alexcoolok / Shutterstock.com<br />
As well as being a facial plastic surgeon<br />
<strong>and</strong> ENT surgeon, Dr Gillian Dunlop is a<br />
premier portrait artist whose commissions<br />
include the Governor General, Quentin<br />
Bryce, <strong>and</strong> the Governor of NSW, Marie<br />
Bashir. In 2006, she won the People’s<br />
Choice Award for the Salon des Refuses.<br />
In 2004, she was an Archibald Finalist.<br />
She brings this artistic appreciation<br />
to her surgery <strong>and</strong>, fi ttingly, recently<br />
presented at the American College of<br />
Surgeons meeting on ‘Rhinoplasty <strong>and</strong><br />
the Mona Lisa Smile’.<br />
Sydney plastic<br />
surgeon wins Sydney<br />
to Hobart Yacht Race<br />
Plastic surgeon Dr Darryl Hodgkinson (or should we say,<br />
Skipper Hodgkinson?) <strong>and</strong> his yacht Victoire have emerged<br />
victorious in the 69th Rolex Sydney to Hobart Yacht Race.<br />
‘It’s an amazing achievement,’ he says. ‘It’s about the<br />
people you gather around you – you believe in them <strong>and</strong><br />
they believe in you – as well as having the right equipment. I<br />
crossed the line in one piece but we did have a rather nasty<br />
Chinese gybe – I had a personal taste of the water!’<br />
32 www.cosbeauty.com.au
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Hair by Wade Blackford, make up by Zoe Karlis, photography by Carl Keeley, styling by Jessica Cox
industry<br />
The 9th National Laser & <strong>Cosmetic</strong> <br />
Medicine Conference<br />
The 9th National Laser & <strong>Cosmetic</strong> Medicine Conference<br />
held on 16 to 17 November at the Sofitel Wentworth<br />
Hotel in Sydney brought together experts in laser <strong>and</strong><br />
cosmetic medicine.<br />
Delegates were able to update their knowledge of laser <strong>and</strong><br />
cosmetic procedures, keep abreast of the latest technological<br />
advances <strong>and</strong> meet with like-minded practitioners <strong>and</strong> experts<br />
in the field.<br />
The program consisted of thought-provoking plenary<br />
sessions, followed by h<strong>and</strong>s-on product demonstrations.<br />
Featured speakers included Dr Ralph Bright who discussed<br />
the growing use of stem cells in cosmetic medicine, particularly<br />
in the pioneering area of ‘stem cell facelifts’, <strong>and</strong> Associate<br />
Professor Lee Collins, who delivered an in-depth <strong>and</strong> practical<br />
presentation on the science, properties <strong>and</strong> safety of lasers.<br />
Further, Dr Adam Rish discussed the need (<strong>and</strong> patient<br />
dem<strong>and</strong>) for judicial use of botulinum toxin for facial<br />
enhancement, as well as sharing his methods <strong>and</strong> experience<br />
in this ‘less is more’ approach to toxins <strong>and</strong> fillers.<br />
Dr Keng-Ee Thai also presented, delivering an interesting<br />
talk on topical therapies for re-malignant <strong>and</strong> non-melanoma<br />
skin cancers as part of the very popular Surgical <strong>and</strong> Non-<br />
Surgical Management of Skin Cancer plenary session.<br />
An exhibition trade display, featuring leading companies from<br />
the cosmetic medicine <strong>and</strong> aesthetic industries, showcased<br />
some of the latest advancements <strong>and</strong> technologies, where<br />
practitioners could learn more about the science behind<br />
emerging aesthetic medicine-based products <strong>and</strong> devices.<br />
LCMC 2014<br />
15 – 16 November 2014<br />
Sofitel Melbourne on Collins, Melbourne<br />
Further information coming soon, please visit the conference<br />
website for more details.<br />
www.dcconferences.com.au/lcmc2014<br />
www.twitter.com/LCMConference<br />
Pre-Conference Workshop<br />
12 – 14 November 2014, Mantra Southbank<br />
An intensive pre-conference 3 day theoretical <strong>and</strong> practical<br />
workshop aimed at medical practitioners new to the field of<br />
cosmetic medicine.<br />
Photos courtesy www.shutterstock.com/Neale Cousl<strong>and</strong><br />
34 www.cosbeauty.com.au
industry<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 35
clinic profile<br />
Concierge Care in<br />
<strong>Cosmetic</strong> Enhancement<br />
We visit Form & Face, the new<br />
Bondi Junction practice of<br />
eminent Sydney plastic surgeon<br />
Dr Benjamin Norris.<br />
Consumers in the 21st Century are the most<br />
sophisticated <strong>and</strong> dem<strong>and</strong>ing in history. Armed with<br />
internet research, they have grown accustomed to<br />
comparing a wide range of products <strong>and</strong> services. They are<br />
not solely concerned with the best price; they want the best<br />
value for their money.<br />
Dr Benjamin Norris believes that, in the same way<br />
5-star hotels offer personalised, concierge service,<br />
‘5-star’cosmetic surgery practices must do the same<br />
thing. He is putting that theory into practice at his practice,<br />
Form & Face, in Bondi Junction, Sydney.<br />
The Place<br />
Concierge hotels feature beautifully appointed lobbies. Dr<br />
Norris’s waiting room has a simple elegance, which will<br />
make you instantly feel relaxed <strong>and</strong> comfortable.<br />
With contemporary off-white leather couches <strong>and</strong><br />
classic side chairs, the space is intimate <strong>and</strong> cosy. Extra<br />
heavy doors make it extremely private. A deep, plush<br />
oatmeal-coloured carpet gives the room warmth, while<br />
unique art objects sit atop a marble coffee table, adding<br />
another dimension of beauty. Dr Norris’s rooms reflect his<br />
own philosophy that he applies to his work, which is an<br />
appreciation of beauty, style <strong>and</strong> proportion.<br />
36 www.cosbeauty.com.au
clinic profile<br />
The People<br />
Personalised care at Form & Face starts at the front or ‘concierge<br />
desk’ where clients are welcomed by Barbara, the newest member<br />
of Dr Norris’s team, though a veteran in the world of patient care.<br />
Barbara is the soul of discretion when it comes to<br />
personal details, <strong>and</strong> is meticulous in scheduling appointments.<br />
She underst<strong>and</strong>s that people wish to remain private when they<br />
are undergoing face, breast or body surgery as well as nonsurgical<br />
treatments.<br />
We want our patients to feel<br />
pampered, cared for <strong>and</strong> special<br />
from the fi rst visit to the last<br />
Barbara’s most important contribution to the practice, however,<br />
may be the personal support she gives to each <strong>and</strong> every patient<br />
<strong>and</strong> the loved ones who may be st<strong>and</strong>ing by nervously.<br />
Practice manager Shannon completes the patient-centric staff.<br />
She has been with Dr Norris the past year <strong>and</strong>, like Barbara, she<br />
has a strong background in cosmetic enhancement. Like a good<br />
concierge, she is always ready with a smile <strong>and</strong> an answer. Her<br />
goal is to educate <strong>and</strong> reassure patients about every aspect of the<br />
surgical process.<br />
‘Patients are likely to make several visits to our offi ces during<br />
a course of treatment,’ says Dr Norris. ‘We want them to feel<br />
pampered, cared for, <strong>and</strong> very, very special from the fi rst visit to<br />
the last.’ csbm<br />
Dr Benjamin Norris<br />
has trained for 20 years in<br />
Sydney <strong>and</strong> overseas to become<br />
fully qualifi ed as a plastic <strong>and</strong><br />
reconstructive surgeon who<br />
specialises in cosmetic surgery<br />
of the breast, face <strong>and</strong> body.<br />
His areas of expertise <strong>and</strong><br />
specialisation include:<br />
BREASTS<br />
Breast enlargement, breast<br />
reduction, breast lift,<br />
breast reconstruction<br />
BODY<br />
Tummy tuck, liposcultpure,<br />
thigh lift <strong>and</strong> body lift,<br />
labioplasty, gynaecomastia<br />
FACE<br />
Face <strong>and</strong> neck lift, brow lift,<br />
fat transfer, non-surgical<br />
facial enhancement<br />
FORM & FACE<br />
Level 5, 59-75 Grafton Street<br />
Bondi Junction, Sydney<br />
02 8916 7328<br />
www.form<strong>and</strong>face.com.au<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 37
profile<br />
Staying<br />
Power<br />
WE CHAT WITH VAL GLOVER-HOVAN<br />
ABOUT HER PIONEERING WORK IN THE<br />
FIELD OF COSMETIC TATTOOING AND<br />
BEAUTY IN AUSTRALIA.<br />
For more than 35 years, Val Glover-Hovan has been a<br />
fi xture in the Australian beauty industry as educator,<br />
practitioner <strong>and</strong> innovative businesswoman.<br />
As director of <strong>Cosmetic</strong> Tattoo Australia <strong>and</strong> The<br />
Academy of Image & <strong>Cosmetic</strong> Corrective Tattoo, Val can<br />
be described as the mother of cosmetic tattoo in Australia,<br />
which she introduced to the local market in 1985.<br />
I’ve strived to set the highest<br />
st<strong>and</strong>ards in the industry with<br />
education <strong>and</strong> quality products<br />
She has been recognised worldwide for her excellence<br />
in cosmetic tattoo practice <strong>and</strong> education, most recently<br />
by the Society of Permanent <strong>Cosmetic</strong> Professionals<br />
which presented Val with an Industry Leader Award for her<br />
contribution to the permanent cosmetics industry.<br />
Val’s high st<strong>and</strong>ard of training is accepted by beauty<br />
<strong>and</strong> cosmetic tattoo associations in Australia <strong>and</strong> the<br />
United States, <strong>and</strong> she offers training programs in all<br />
aspects of cosmetic tattooing. Her expertise as a presenter<br />
<strong>and</strong> educator is sought after around the world <strong>and</strong> she<br />
continually keeps abreast with the latest advancements<br />
<strong>and</strong> techniques in the industry.<br />
Val has carved a career out of making women look <strong>and</strong><br />
feel fabulous with permanent makeup. ‘When performed<br />
by a skilled <strong>and</strong> experienced cosmetic tattooist, it can really<br />
enhance <strong>and</strong> beautify a woman’s looks,’ she says. ‘This<br />
might include creating defi ned, well-groomed eyebrows,<br />
enhanced eye shape with eyeliner, <strong>and</strong> more youthfullooking<br />
lips with added colour <strong>and</strong> lip border defi nition. The<br />
great thing is that all these cosmetic tattoo treatments can<br />
last for many years.’<br />
‘Importantly, cosmetic tattooing can also be used for<br />
paramedical treatments, such as recreating the look of the<br />
areola <strong>and</strong> nipple of women who have undergone breast<br />
reconstruction after a mastectomy,’ she continues.<br />
In addition to Val’s cosmetic tattooing work, Hovan’s<br />
Group is a recognised br<strong>and</strong> in its own right – with cult<br />
products such as the Bikini Saver, In-Grown Gold Medi<br />
Cream, InGrown Gold Body Lotion, Hovan’s Eyelash<br />
Enhancer <strong>and</strong> now the newly launched anti-ageing skincare<br />
range, Love Life. Principals Val <strong>and</strong> Leslie Hovan have grown<br />
<strong>and</strong> diversifi ed the business to an international enterprise<br />
with customers in Australia, New Zeal<strong>and</strong>, Singapore, the<br />
Middle East, United States, Canada <strong>and</strong> the Caribbean.<br />
‘I’ve strived to always set the highest st<strong>and</strong>ards in the<br />
beauty industry with continued cosmetic tattoo education<br />
<strong>and</strong> quality products, promoting professionalism in<br />
treatments <strong>and</strong> training,’ says Val. ‘The beauty business<br />
continues to be a dynamic <strong>and</strong> exciting industry!’ csbm<br />
1<br />
After lip tattooing by Val Glover-Hovan<br />
2<br />
After eyeliner tattooing by Val Glover-Hovan<br />
38 www.cosbeauty.com.au
industry<br />
A trip to the lab<br />
Catherine Biedermann from Advanced Cosmeceuticals recently visited<br />
the mesoestetic headquarters in Barcelona. Caitlin Bishop reports.<br />
Born 28 years ago, in the back office of a small<br />
pharmacy in the Barcelona district of Eixample,<br />
Mesoestetic Pharma Group has grown to span<br />
nations, <strong>and</strong> change the skin of millions of people across the<br />
globe. The mastermind behind its inception, chemist Joan<br />
Carles Font, has fuelled the company with a philosophy<br />
based on consistent quality <strong>and</strong> cutting-edge concepts.<br />
Now, the Mesoestetic head office incorporates three<br />
departments – pharmaceutical, medical <strong>and</strong> clinical – in<br />
a start of the art facility of 8,500 squared metres. Here,<br />
ingredient formulations, professional training, clinical testing<br />
<strong>and</strong> product manufacturing come together to create the<br />
future of pharmaceutical skincare.<br />
To experience this first h<strong>and</strong>, Catherine Biedermann,<br />
Managing Director at Advanced Cosmeceuticals, the<br />
Australian distributor of Mesoestetic, recently visited the<br />
Mesoestetic laboratories for a tour of their facilities.<br />
‘Each department maintains a different grade of security<br />
<strong>and</strong> sterility – I’ve never seen anything like it,’ she says.<br />
‘I’ve been to quite a few manufacturing plants, but the level<br />
of professionalism, hygiene <strong>and</strong> efficiency at Mesoestetic<br />
really blew me away.’<br />
The Mesoestetic cosmeceutical ranges are tested<br />
against the most stringent scientific <strong>and</strong> safety st<strong>and</strong>ards,<br />
ensuring the final products provide effective, reliable <strong>and</strong><br />
predictable results.<br />
‘The complex has a large laboratory where doctors,<br />
pharmacists <strong>and</strong> cosmeticians work together to formulate<br />
new ingredients <strong>and</strong> advance the line of cosmeceuticals,’<br />
Biedermann explains. ‘Because it’s a pharmaceutical<br />
company, active ingredients can – <strong>and</strong> are – used to ensure<br />
maximum efficacy.’<br />
Notably, Mesoestetic Pharma Group makes a point<br />
of investing 40 percent of its revenue back into product<br />
development <strong>and</strong> research. All new formulations <strong>and</strong><br />
treatment concepts are clinically trialled in-house, reinforcing<br />
the br<strong>and</strong>’s commitment to providing next-generation,<br />
quality skincare.<br />
It’s not just a br<strong>and</strong> that<br />
formulates <strong>and</strong> manufactures<br />
products – everything is tested<br />
in-house, under clinical settings,<br />
with diagnostic software<br />
‘It’s not just a br<strong>and</strong> that formulates <strong>and</strong> manufactures<br />
products – everything is tested in-house, under clinical<br />
settings, with diagnostic software,’ Biedermann says.<br />
‘Mesoestetic will not release a product until they are 100<br />
percent certain of its effectiveness. I love this about the<br />
br<strong>and</strong> – you know the products contain quality, active<br />
ingredients; they’ve been formulated under the strictest<br />
professional st<strong>and</strong>ards; <strong>and</strong> they’re only released once their<br />
efficacy has been well <strong>and</strong> truly established.’ csbm<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 39
industry<br />
4ways Shortcuts has a range of<br />
autoMATEd fEATures to help save<br />
time <strong>and</strong> money <strong>and</strong> optimise the<br />
performance of your clinic.<br />
Caitlin Bishop reports.<br />
to boost<br />
your business<br />
In a world of technology at your fingertips, automation<br />
is key in keeping your business up to date <strong>and</strong> on the<br />
cutting edge. Shortcuts offers a range of automated<br />
clinic management software features to assist in everything<br />
from appointment confirmation to stock management.<br />
The software takes care of all the little – but essential –<br />
facets of your clinic, creating time for your team to focus on<br />
the more important things.<br />
The system is centred upon efficiency, <strong>and</strong> Shortcuts<br />
educator Brooke Morkham-Calvert explains it can help<br />
enhance the performance of your clinic. ‘Shortcuts has<br />
a range of automated services to save you several hours<br />
each day, free up the front desk <strong>and</strong> enable you to focus on<br />
providing quality client service without being encumbered<br />
by everyday housekeeping,’ she says.<br />
Confirming appointments<br />
A confirmation system is designed to keep appointments<br />
to schedule <strong>and</strong> save both the practice, <strong>and</strong> the client,<br />
time. Shortcuts’ TextME is an automated system that asks<br />
patients for confirmation before their appointment.<br />
40 www.cosbeauty.com.au
industry<br />
‘Clinics can set up the system to suit their services. For<br />
example, at 9am, two days prior, a text message goes<br />
out to patients asking for confirmation,’ Morkham-Calvert<br />
says. ‘Based on the patient’s response, the system will<br />
automatically confirm the appointment by changing its<br />
colour on the schedule. No one has to lift a finger.’<br />
Marketing<br />
Shortcuts’ Set & Forget Marketing takes the onus off<br />
your clinic in maintaining personalised, consistent <strong>and</strong><br />
topical contact with customers. This system uses your<br />
clinic’s database to schedule <strong>and</strong> send automated emails<br />
on occasions like birthdays, in the days following an<br />
appointment or if the client hasn’t been heard from in a while.<br />
Shortcuts Software allows<br />
you to focus on providing<br />
quality client service without<br />
being encumbered by<br />
everyday housekeeping<br />
‘Emails are timely, relevant <strong>and</strong> completely personalised.<br />
We’ve actually had clients say to our clinic members “No<br />
one else remembered my birthday but you did – thank you<br />
for remembering!”’<br />
According to Morkham-Calvert, marketing is only<br />
effective when it’s relevant to those it’s targeting. ‘You don’t<br />
want to bombard patients with general marketing that’s not<br />
personalised, as they could read one of these emails <strong>and</strong><br />
never open another from you,’ she adds.<br />
<strong>and</strong> order stock to replenish your clinic. The software feature<br />
clarifies the exact amount of stock required, <strong>and</strong> saves the<br />
time <strong>and</strong> money needed to manage stock manually.<br />
‘Practice managers <strong>and</strong> clinic staff can automatically<br />
generate an order through the Shortcuts system,’<br />
Morkham-Calvert explains. ‘The software generates the<br />
order based on your “trading history”, or what’s been<br />
selling, <strong>and</strong> the time period you’re hoping the stock will<br />
last for.’<br />
Notably, the system examines a wide range of data, to<br />
ensure the order’s quantity is reliable.<br />
‘In asking the system for enough stock to last 30<br />
days, the software will examine the previous 90 days <strong>and</strong><br />
optimise the order based on this activity,’ Morkham-Calvert<br />
explains. ‘Alternatively, it can analyse activity from the same<br />
time last year, <strong>and</strong> practice managers can add or subtract<br />
a percentage depending on what’s needed.’<br />
Once the order is complete, it can be sent automatically<br />
to the supplier via email. Morkham-Calvert explains small<br />
benefits like this make all the difference in easy, efficient<br />
clinic management.<br />
‘In clinics, stock management is obviously essential,<br />
but takes such a massive amount of time,’ she says. ‘The<br />
Shortcuts features take the effort out of these simple,<br />
everyday things to keep your clinic running smoothly <strong>and</strong><br />
efficiently. It allows the focus to stay where it should –<br />
on superior customer service <strong>and</strong> not chasing orders or<br />
sending emails!’ csbm<br />
Backing up<br />
In a perfect world, the data <strong>and</strong> patient information held<br />
in your system should be backed up at least once a<br />
day. Patient details <strong>and</strong> treatment history are essential in<br />
optimising the everyday function <strong>and</strong> success of your clinic.<br />
To make life easier, <strong>and</strong> save you having to think about<br />
it, Shortcuts offers an automated feature that performs a<br />
backup every four hours.<br />
‘The likelihood of the program crashing is extremely low,’<br />
Morkham-Calvert says. ‘But the security of an automated<br />
system means nothing is lost, <strong>and</strong> you don’t have to worry<br />
about remembering to backup your data manually.’<br />
Restocking<br />
Forget the calculators, spreadsheets <strong>and</strong> manual<br />
estimations, Shortcuts can automatically evaluate, predict<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 41
The Australasian College of <strong>Cosmetic</strong> <strong>Surgery</strong><br />
Raising St<strong>and</strong>ards,<br />
Protecting Patients<br />
Dedicated to quality, ethical<br />
<strong>and</strong> responsible practice.<br />
Accreditation is Important<br />
All Fellows of the Australasian College of <strong>Cosmetic</strong><br />
<strong>Surgery</strong> (FACCS) are specifically trained in cosmetic<br />
surgery <strong>and</strong> are required by the College to maintain<br />
their skills through a Continuing Professional<br />
Development programme.<br />
All Fellows of the Faculty of Medicine (FFMACCS)<br />
are specifically trained in cosmetic medicine <strong>and</strong><br />
are required by the College to maintain their skills<br />
through a Continuing Professional Development<br />
programme.<br />
CERTIFIED<br />
IN COSMETIC<br />
SURGERY<br />
If doctors display this Seal,<br />
you can be assured they<br />
comply with the College’s<br />
exemplary st<strong>and</strong>ards of its<br />
Code of Practice, available<br />
at www.accs.org.au<br />
How qualified is your doctor?<br />
Do they have the right to display these symbols?<br />
For further information about the College<br />
<strong>and</strong> its members <strong>and</strong> Fellows in your state call:<br />
1800 804 781<br />
admin@accs.org.au<br />
www.cosmeticsurgery.org.au
CONFERENCE ORGANISER<br />
F: +61 2 9368 1500<br />
ARTISTRY<br />
INTEGRITY<br />
EXCELLENCE<br />
AUSTRALASIAN COLLEGE<br />
.<br />
A C C.<br />
S<br />
. .<br />
OF COSMETIC SURGERY
industry<br />
COSMETEX<br />
2014<br />
COSMETEX 2014 BEGINS MAY 1ST<br />
AND WILL SEE THE WORLD’S BEST<br />
IN COSMETIC MEDICINE COME<br />
TOGETHER ON THE GOLD COAST.<br />
CAITLIN BISHOP REPORTS.<br />
The world of cosmetic surgery is constantly evolving<br />
as new technologies, revolutionary ideas <strong>and</strong> fresh<br />
possibilities continue to emerge. With the industry<br />
growing at such a momentous rate, it’s more important<br />
than ever before that doctors, practitioners <strong>and</strong> nurses<br />
alike have an opportunity to share <strong>and</strong> collaborate, ensuring<br />
patient care, optimum results <strong>and</strong> steady growth remains at<br />
the forefront of the industry’s priorities.<br />
Cosmetex, run by the Australasian College of <strong>Cosmetic</strong><br />
<strong>Surgery</strong> (ACCS), provides the ultimate platform for this<br />
collaboration to occur. It acts as a hotbed for cosmetic<br />
<strong>and</strong> medical practitioners to share ideas, discover new<br />
possibilities <strong>and</strong> further advance the future of cosmetic<br />
surgery in Australia <strong>and</strong> around the world.<br />
Cosmetex brings world-class<br />
expertise across multiple<br />
specialties in the aesthetic arena<br />
In its 5th year under the Cosmetex banner, the meeting<br />
will see an amalgamation of cosmetic <strong>and</strong> plastic surgeons<br />
arrive at the Gold Coast for the three-day conference,<br />
beginning May 1st. The meeting will be held at the Royal<br />
Pines Resort, located within minutes from Surfers Paradise.<br />
In keeping with the previous Cosmetex meetings, the<br />
2014 conference will host a selection of experienced,<br />
renowned <strong>and</strong> respected keynote speakers. One speaker,<br />
renowned Canadian plastic surgeon Dr Arthur Swift, has<br />
been practicing since 1984 <strong>and</strong> has served on several elite<br />
plastic surgical societies <strong>and</strong> international committees.<br />
Dr Swift is considered a defi nite trailblazer in the world of<br />
aesthetic rejuvenation <strong>and</strong> will speak on his approach to<br />
achieving the best results in cosmetic enhancement.<br />
A fi erce advocate of the ‘less is more’ principle, Dr Swift<br />
has developed the BeautiPHIcation approach, where the<br />
golden ratio, or Phi, is used to establish the most natural<br />
<strong>and</strong> aesthetically pleasing result in facial rejuvenation. This<br />
year, he will give talks on achieving facial harmony <strong>and</strong><br />
working on ‘specialty areas’, such as the nose <strong>and</strong> mouth.<br />
‘Meetings like Cosmetex are invaluable – the conference<br />
offers world-class expertise <strong>and</strong> discussion across multiple<br />
specialties in the aesthetic arena,’ Dr Swift explains. ‘I<br />
always enjoy discussing the canons of beauty, <strong>and</strong> the<br />
comprehensive approach to safely rejuvenate the face nonsurgically,<br />
<strong>and</strong> with minimal downtime.’<br />
From treating hyperpigmentation to the latest in breast<br />
surgery, Cosmetex 2014 will encompass all the elements<br />
of cosmetic medical practice – both non-surgical <strong>and</strong><br />
surgical. Dr Swift explains the two fi elds should not be<br />
seen as mutually exclusive; instead, they should be<br />
combined for optimum <strong>and</strong> holistic results.<br />
‘The combination of non-surgical <strong>and</strong> surgical<br />
rejuvenation is a marriage made in cosmetic surgery<br />
heaven,’ Dr Swift says.<br />
44 www.cosbeauty.com.au
industry<br />
‘We underst<strong>and</strong> now that these two methods are<br />
synergistic in the results they produce,’ he explains. ‘We<br />
are able to soften lines, contour features <strong>and</strong> reinflate<br />
volume-loss regions with injectables; optimise skin tone<br />
<strong>and</strong> texture with topical agents <strong>and</strong> energy devices; <strong>and</strong><br />
then address lax skin <strong>and</strong> sagging musculature with<br />
surgery. Ageing occurs at all levels, <strong>and</strong> our response<br />
is likewise.’<br />
Each year Cosmetex plays an integral role in shaping<br />
<strong>and</strong> advancing the future of cosmetic surgery. The<br />
conference provides an opportunity for the industry’s<br />
best to explore the most cutting-edge concepts, <strong>and</strong><br />
future uses, in cosmetic enhancement.<br />
‘Some of the biggest topics in cosmetic surgery<br />
include optimising patient experiences <strong>and</strong> outcomes<br />
through a comprehensive non-surgical full face<br />
approach; returning to natural results in facial feature<br />
enhancement; improving outcomes <strong>and</strong> minimising<br />
downtime after breast augmentation surgery; <strong>and</strong><br />
freezing body fat away with CoolSculpting,’ Dr Swift<br />
describes. ‘The reason for Cosmetex is to develop<br />
these ideas further.’<br />
Alongside the extensive surgical presentations <strong>and</strong><br />
workshops, Cosmetex will host a program designed<br />
for practice managers. This will includes talks on<br />
growing business through social media, tools for<br />
online marketing, <strong>and</strong> managing risk in building a<br />
successful practice.<br />
In keeping with Cosmetex tradition, the 2014 meeting<br />
has an engaging social program. From the customary<br />
cocktail reception, to a spectacular gala dinner,<br />
the three-day conference will provide ample opportunity<br />
for the world of cosmetic surgery to converge, enabling<br />
cosmetic practitioners to further their skills, have<br />
discussions with like-minded professionals <strong>and</strong> learn<br />
about the future practice in the cosmetic arena. csbm<br />
STOP PRESS!<br />
A pre-conference workshop on Wednesday,<br />
30 April has just been announced! Don’t miss<br />
your opportunity for h<strong>and</strong>s-on learning <strong>and</strong><br />
invaluable tips from industry leaders.<br />
SPEAKERS INCLUDE<br />
Dr Raj Acquilla<br />
MBChB, MRCGP, MBCAM<br />
<strong>Cosmetic</strong> dermatologist Dr<br />
Raj Acquilla is an expert in medical<br />
aesthetics, facial contouring <strong>and</strong><br />
volume replacement. He is a<br />
recognised Masterclass Trainer<br />
using the latest <strong>and</strong> most innovative<br />
facial rejuvenation techniques from<br />
around the world.<br />
Dr Steven Dayan<br />
MD, FACS<br />
Facial plastic surgeon Dr Steven<br />
Dayan is a renowned speaker<br />
<strong>and</strong> author <strong>and</strong> remains on the<br />
cutting-edge of medical techniques<br />
in aesthetics. His latest book,<br />
Subliminally Exposed, explores<br />
the concept of beauty <strong>and</strong> its<br />
connection to desire, mating<br />
<strong>and</strong> communication.<br />
Dr Mark Nestor<br />
MD, PhD<br />
Dermatologist Dr Mark Nestor<br />
is considered a world expert<br />
in cutaneous laser surgery,<br />
photodynamic therapy <strong>and</strong> the<br />
use of fillers <strong>and</strong> toxins in cosmetic<br />
practice. Dr Nestor has penned<br />
more than 40 articles <strong>and</strong> book<br />
chapters, <strong>and</strong> has delivered major<br />
presentations across the globe.<br />
Dr Arthur Swift<br />
MD, CM, FRCS<br />
Canadian plastic surgeon<br />
Dr Arthur Swift is internationally<br />
renowned for his techniques in<br />
using injectables in cosmetic<br />
enhancement. In 2008, Dr Swift<br />
pioneered BeautiPHIcation, a<br />
revolutionary approach to<br />
achieving natural-looking <strong>and</strong><br />
aesthetically pleasing results in<br />
non-surgical rejuvenation.<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 45
industry<br />
Setting the benchmark<br />
this year the Australasian College of <strong>Cosmetic</strong> <strong>Surgery</strong><br />
notches up 15 years of setting the st<strong>and</strong>ard for patient safety<br />
<strong>and</strong> doctor training. Caitlin Bishop reports.<br />
The latest statistics show Australians spend around<br />
$1 billion on cosmetic surgical <strong>and</strong> medical-related<br />
treatments each year. Suffice it to say, cosmetic<br />
surgery is more popular than ever before <strong>and</strong> it has<br />
never been so important to ensure Australian patients<br />
are receiving the best possible treatment at the h<strong>and</strong>s of<br />
their physicians.<br />
With patient care foremost in its priorities, practice <strong>and</strong><br />
philosophy, the Australasian College of <strong>Cosmetic</strong> Surgeons<br />
(ACCS) plays an essential role in regulating <strong>and</strong> upholding<br />
the st<strong>and</strong>ards of cosmetic surgery in Australia.<br />
By ensuring the provision of premium quality, consistent<br />
safety <strong>and</strong> optimum patient care in cosmetic procedures,<br />
the ACCS signifies one of the major pillars in securing<br />
the healthy growth of the Australian industry. Sydney<br />
hair restoration surgeon <strong>and</strong> past president of the ACCS<br />
Dr Russell Knudsen says the ACCS plays a leading role in<br />
the Australian cosmetic surgery arena.<br />
‘ACCS is a leader among the groups that monitor <strong>and</strong><br />
regulate cosmetic surgery practice in Australia,’ he says. ‘Its<br />
Code Of Practice is the most strict set of regulations applied<br />
in Australia <strong>and</strong> are compulsory for ACCS members.’<br />
Training <strong>and</strong> accreditation<br />
Since its inception in 1999, the aim of the ACCS has been<br />
consistently clear: to ensure the safe delivery of cosmetic<br />
surgery <strong>and</strong> non-surgical procedures to the Australian<br />
community. That appropriately trained <strong>and</strong> certified medical<br />
practitioners perform these procedures is paramount,<br />
<strong>and</strong> the ACCS offers formal training <strong>and</strong> accreditation to<br />
its members. ‘The ACCS provides comprehensive regular<br />
training programs for all members <strong>and</strong> intense, two-year<br />
registrar programs for physician applicants who wish to<br />
sit the ACCS Fellowship Exam,’ says Dr Knudsen. ‘The<br />
Fellowship Exam is the only cosmetic surgery-specific exam<br />
available in Australia.’<br />
The ACCS plays a key role in ensuring those who<br />
practice cosmetic medicine are sufficiently trained. Indeed,<br />
to become a Fellow of the ACCS, doctors must complete a<br />
minimum of 12 years medical <strong>and</strong> surgical training.<br />
‘To be recognised as a fellow of the ACCS, doctors<br />
need to have undergone appropriate training, plus<br />
specific procedural training <strong>and</strong> they must also have<br />
demonstrated substantial clinical experience,’ says Dr<br />
46 www.cosbeauty.com.au
industry<br />
<strong>Cosmetic</strong> Medical Practice as<br />
a separate medical speciality<br />
The ACCS has applied to the Australian Medical<br />
Council (AMC) to have <strong>Cosmetic</strong> Medical Practice<br />
recognised as a Medical Speciality. This term<br />
‘<strong>Cosmetic</strong> Medical Practice’, proposed to replace<br />
‘<strong>Cosmetic</strong> <strong>Surgery</strong>’, prevents confusion <strong>and</strong> is<br />
inclusive of both surgical <strong>and</strong> non-surgical procedures<br />
performed only by certifi ed cosmetic practitioners.<br />
<strong>Cosmetic</strong> Medical Practice is already a welldefi<br />
ned <strong>and</strong> unique medical specialty, practiced<br />
by medical practitioners from various specialties<br />
including dermatology, general surgery, plastic<br />
<strong>and</strong> reconstructive surgery, oral <strong>and</strong> maxillofacial<br />
surgery, <strong>and</strong> gynaecology. Practicing cosmetic<br />
procedures requires specialised knowledge <strong>and</strong><br />
skill not normally found in doctors working in<br />
general medicine or in specialists working in general<br />
surgery or even in some cases of plastic surgery.<br />
If the specialty was recognised by the AMC,<br />
any organisation of doctors, or training facility in<br />
Australia, could apply to have their training scheme,<br />
qualifi cations <strong>and</strong> accreditation processes assessed<br />
against the AMC requirements. This would provide<br />
better, more comprehensive, protection for<br />
consumers <strong>and</strong> practitioners. It would empower<br />
consumers to make informed decisions in selecting<br />
a practitioner recognised by the AMC, <strong>and</strong> provide<br />
practitioners in cosmetic medical practice with<br />
enhanced transparency <strong>and</strong> validated recognition.<br />
John Flynn, past-president of the ACCS. ‘We also ensure<br />
our fellows are participating in continuing education <strong>and</strong>,<br />
where needed, re-certifi cation.’<br />
Importantly, the ACCS facilitates ongoing education<br />
<strong>and</strong> auditing for all its existing members. This ensures the<br />
established st<strong>and</strong>ards are maintained on a long-term basis.<br />
‘All members must re-certify each year <strong>and</strong> this involves<br />
annual attainment of strict continuing education criteria,<br />
for example scientifi c meetings, publications, etc.,’ Dr<br />
Knudsen explains. ‘In addition, procedural audits of medical<br />
practitioners affords another level of monitoring st<strong>and</strong>ards<br />
of practice.’<br />
Alongside training, the ACCS has a Code of Practice that<br />
covers, among other things, advertising <strong>and</strong> promotional<br />
guidelines <strong>and</strong> informed consent regulations.<br />
cosmetic surgery. This is seen in the ACCS Seal of<br />
Approval, which can be displayed by any member who<br />
complies with the College’s Code of Practice.<br />
According to ACCS past-president Dr Colin Moore,<br />
the aim of this seal is to protect both practitioners <strong>and</strong><br />
patients. He sees it as an objective accreditation that<br />
empowers patients to make informed decisions <strong>and</strong><br />
protects practitioners by increasing the transparency of<br />
their practice.<br />
Furthering this commitment to patient <strong>and</strong> physician<br />
protection, the ACCS has recently applied to the Australian<br />
Medical Council (AMC) to have <strong>Cosmetic</strong> Medical Practice<br />
recognised as a ‘medical specialty’.<br />
This would mean any organisation or training facility<br />
in the country could apply to have their training scheme<br />
assessed against the requirements established by the AMC<br />
– affording greater clarity for both patients <strong>and</strong> physicians<br />
in making decisions to undertake, or become involved with,<br />
cosmetic surgery in Australia.<br />
Looking forward<br />
With cosmetic surgery more popular than ever before –<br />
<strong>and</strong> showing no signs of slowing down – it is imperative<br />
Australians have access to transparent, professional <strong>and</strong><br />
regulated information in deciding to undergo treatment.<br />
The ACCS provides the guidelines, <strong>and</strong> sets the<br />
st<strong>and</strong>ards, for cosmetic surgery practice in Australia <strong>and</strong><br />
affords a valuable resource for patients seeking cosmetic<br />
enhancement of any kind – invasive <strong>and</strong> non-invasive.<br />
Looking forward, Dr Knudsen explains the ACCS will<br />
play a central role in ensuring cosmetic surgery remains a<br />
strong, reputable <strong>and</strong> reliable fi eld in Australia.<br />
‘The ACCS will continue to be a critical part of the<br />
ongoing setting of st<strong>and</strong>ards <strong>and</strong> maintenance of safe<br />
practice,’ Dr Knudsen says. ‘To this end, the College, is also<br />
in regular contact with other stakeholders <strong>and</strong> particularly<br />
with the government.’<br />
‘Encouragement of practitioners to sit examinations,<br />
time-limiting the accreditations available by examination,<br />
<strong>and</strong> annual requirements for proof of satisfactory continuing<br />
medical education, will ensure industry st<strong>and</strong>ards are both<br />
raised <strong>and</strong> maintained in the years to come,’ Dr Knudsen<br />
concludes. csbm<br />
Patient peace of mind<br />
Currently, the ACCS is a voluntary scheme for doctors,<br />
but signifi es a beacon of reassurance for patients hoping<br />
to receive monitored <strong>and</strong> regulated care in undertaking<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 47
column<br />
The<br />
tragic life<br />
of Lady<br />
Flora<br />
Hastings<br />
Where did that come from? In his regular column Dr Jim Leavesley<br />
examines the history <strong>and</strong> origins of different medical topics.<br />
The Victorian era was well known for its prudishness,<br />
covering piano legs so as not to inflame men <strong>and</strong><br />
affront the ladies, for instance. And dresses swept<br />
the floor to hide the alleged sexually charged ankles. So<br />
you can well imagine the sc<strong>and</strong>al when it was rumoured<br />
in Royal Circles that the unmarried <strong>and</strong> highly respected<br />
Maid in Waiting to her Britannic Majesty Queen Victoria<br />
herself was – wait for it – pregnant. What an affront to<br />
good manners as there were none more Victorian that<br />
Victoria, herself.<br />
The pot belly <strong>and</strong> medical<br />
consult had not gone unnoticed<br />
<strong>and</strong> tongues began to wag<br />
The story goes that in January 1839 the royal party was<br />
returning by coach from a holiday in Scotl<strong>and</strong>. Travelling<br />
in one coach was Victoria’s 33-year-old maid, Lady Flora<br />
Hastings, from the very well-connected Hastings family,<br />
together with the rather oily <strong>and</strong> unpopular Comptroller of<br />
the Royal Household, Sir John Conroy. They were alone.<br />
Hastings had been feeling unwell for several days <strong>and</strong><br />
on reaching London she consulted the highly regarded<br />
royal physician, Sir James Clark. The patient complained of<br />
some ‘derangement of the bowel’ (the word ‘constipation’<br />
was far too frank), as well as pain <strong>and</strong> swelling in the lower<br />
abdomen. She was given an aperient <strong>and</strong> the bowel settled,<br />
though the swelling persisted, <strong>and</strong> she returned to work.<br />
The slight pot belly <strong>and</strong> medical consult, however, had not<br />
gone unnoticed <strong>and</strong> tongues began to wag. Gossip was<br />
put about that Lady Flora had secretly married – <strong>and</strong> if she<br />
hadn’t, she certainly should. Sir James then committed a<br />
serious ethical gaff by commenting to the Queen that her<br />
maid could be pregnant. Victoria had already suspected as<br />
much <strong>and</strong> promptly informed the Prime Minister who wisely<br />
advised a watching brief.<br />
But the ladies of the Court now had the bit firmly<br />
between their collective teeth; such sc<strong>and</strong>al was the breath<br />
of life in the greenhouse atmosphere in which they lived.<br />
The Queen confided in her diary, ‘We have no doubt she, to<br />
use plain words, is with child’. ‘With child’ was underlined<br />
<strong>and</strong> I daresay she felt she had uttered an obscenity. She<br />
48 www.cosbeauty.com.au
column<br />
went on to blame Conroy <strong>and</strong> the two or three days they<br />
had spent alone in the carriage <strong>and</strong> wrote of him in her<br />
diary, ‘the Monster <strong>and</strong> Demon Incarnate’. We know all this<br />
because years later the diary was published <strong>and</strong> became<br />
a best-seller.<br />
What the Queen did not explain was how Conroy<br />
managed to carry out his evil intent <strong>and</strong> have his awful<br />
way with a prim lady of mature years who was doubtless<br />
trussed up in whalebone-strengthened corsets while at the<br />
same time being jolted hither <strong>and</strong> thither in a spring-less<br />
carriage. Only an imagination produced by a blinkered mind<br />
of the 1830s could have reached such a conclusion.<br />
This was an era when the<br />
medical fraternity boasted they<br />
could diagnose pneumonia by<br />
placing an ear on the chest <strong>and</strong><br />
listening through a calico shirt<br />
<strong>and</strong> two woolly vests<br />
be, even then, not completely convinced a pregnancy was<br />
not behind all this.<br />
On July 3, 1839 the poor benighted subject of the<br />
sc<strong>and</strong>al died. A post-mortem was carried out <strong>and</strong> there was<br />
found to be a grossly enlarged liver, numerous adhesions,<br />
a distended stomach <strong>and</strong> many enlarged lymph nodes.<br />
There was certainly no foetus. At this distance the actual<br />
diagnosis is conjectural. I thought at first <strong>and</strong> before the<br />
autopsy result was revealed it was cancer of the ovary, but<br />
after the post-mortem it was more likely to have been the<br />
much more common malignancy of cancer of the bowel.<br />
Whatever the true cause of death, the poor victim<br />
became lost in an avalanche of righteous indignation from<br />
the press, the sc<strong>and</strong>alised Court, <strong>and</strong> up to Queen Victoria<br />
herself. When news spread regarding the unblemished<br />
virginal state of the Maid in Waiting, Victoria was hissed<br />
in theatre, stones were thrown at her carriage <strong>and</strong> people<br />
shouted after her ‘Mrs Melbourne’ while at the Ascot<br />
racecourse. She became an ‘object of indifference <strong>and</strong><br />
odium’, as one politician wrote..<br />
The monarch eventually regained her composure to rule<br />
with legendary dignity but the episode ruined Dr Clark’s<br />
reputation. csbm<br />
But, having said that, there was no doubt the abdominal<br />
mass was growing before their very eyes. The odd thing<br />
was that the doctor had only examined Lady Flora through<br />
her dress, which he probably thought was enough in an era<br />
when the medical fraternity boasted they could diagnose<br />
pneumonia by placing an ear on the chest <strong>and</strong> listening<br />
through a calico shirt <strong>and</strong> two woolly vests.<br />
Eventually, Dr Clark approached the patient wondering<br />
if he might be permitted to lay his h<strong>and</strong>s on the skin of<br />
the abdominal wall with, well, you know, maybe the stays<br />
removed. To this outrageous request the mortified Lady<br />
Flora Hastings declined to accede.<br />
Then Her Majesty stepped in <strong>and</strong> conveyed to her maid<br />
that she would be unwelcome at dinner until examined.<br />
Clark himself conveyed the royal message, doubtless<br />
adding words such as ‘my painful duty’, ‘allay foul<br />
suspicions’, ‘possible private marriage’ <strong>and</strong> so forth. Lady<br />
Flora was inc<strong>and</strong>escent <strong>and</strong> vehemently denied all, but<br />
did agree to see the Hastings family doctor. The next day,<br />
following some well-chaperoned indignities, she was found<br />
to be virgo intacta <strong>and</strong> declared not pregnant, whereupon<br />
Queen Victoria sent an apology <strong>and</strong> invited her maid back<br />
to the dinner table.<br />
But Flora <strong>and</strong> her family were not to be mollified <strong>and</strong> her<br />
brother dem<strong>and</strong>ed reparations <strong>and</strong> even called out Lord<br />
Melbourne, the Prime Minister, for a duel. It was ignored.<br />
But the family’s d<strong>and</strong>er was up <strong>and</strong> proceeded to send all<br />
the correspondence to the Morning Post newspaper.<br />
To cut a long story short, poor Flora Hasting’s health<br />
went rapidly downhill. Victoria visited her <strong>and</strong> came away to<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 49
feature<br />
Make-up<br />
magic<br />
CSBM EDITOR-IN-CHIEF MICHELLE KEARNEY<br />
EXPERIENCED A MAKEOVER IN AUCKLAND,<br />
NZ AT THE HANDS OF CELEBRITY MAKE-UP<br />
ARTIST DEBBIE DELGADO.<br />
Debbie Delgado<br />
50 www.cosbeauty.com.au
Direct from Los Angeles to New Zeal<strong>and</strong>,<br />
internationally renowned makeup artist<br />
Debbie Delgado has brought her extensive<br />
training from around the world to New Zeal<strong>and</strong>.<br />
With more than 18 years of experience, she has<br />
been revolutionising Auckl<strong>and</strong> faces since 2004<br />
with her Hollywood makeup transformations.<br />
Makeup is one of the oldest forms of human<br />
expression <strong>and</strong> cosmetics in one form or another<br />
have been around for thous<strong>and</strong>s of years.<br />
Women <strong>and</strong> men alike have long used makeup<br />
for different reasons, ranging from the desire<br />
to conform to st<strong>and</strong>ards of beauty of the time,<br />
through to signifying power, wealth or nobility.<br />
Makeup holds the possibility for a woman<br />
(or man) to personally transform herself, both<br />
physically <strong>and</strong> even psychologically. Numerous<br />
studies have shown that wearing makeup<br />
increases feelings of self-confi dence <strong>and</strong><br />
sociability. The more attractive you feel you are,<br />
the more highly you think of yourself.<br />
Wearing makeup also has a signifi cant impact<br />
on how others perceive you – a 2011 study<br />
confi rmed that makeup makes women seem more<br />
attractive, competent, likeable <strong>and</strong> trustworthy.<br />
To feel beautiful is an important aspect in a<br />
woman’s life. We love to look our best but may<br />
feel unsure when it comes to applying our own<br />
makeup. For me personally, having my makeup<br />
professionally applied by Debbie, <strong>and</strong> being<br />
taught some of her makeover magic Hollywood<br />
secrets, was an instant self-esteem booster.<br />
There’s something about having a fully made-up,<br />
glamorous face that takes everyone’s confi dence<br />
up a notch. As the before <strong>and</strong> afters show, the<br />
transformation can be amazing. csbm<br />
Michelle Kearney’s step-by-step makeover<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 51
feature<br />
A history<br />
in ink<br />
Caitlin Bishop explores<br />
the unique, diverse <strong>and</strong><br />
remarkable history behind<br />
tattoos – <strong>and</strong> their removal.<br />
52 www.cosbeauty.com.au
Throughout history, the art of tattooing has evolved to<br />
make its mark across all classes of society. Unique<br />
trends, styles <strong>and</strong> techniques have emerged with<br />
different cultural adoptions, while numerous variations in<br />
technology have made the art what it is today – a popular<br />
<strong>and</strong> prevalent way to shape identity <strong>and</strong> individualise selfexpression.<br />
Indeed, in Australia approximately one in 10<br />
people have had a tattoo at some point in their lives.<br />
Inevitably, alongside this increase in popularity, there has<br />
been a rise in the people seeking to undo a decision they<br />
now regret. Once upon a time, tattooing was considered<br />
a permanent <strong>and</strong> irreversible undertaking. Now, with<br />
the introduction of new technologies, tattoo removal has<br />
become highly sought-after <strong>and</strong> impressively effective.<br />
Ancient times<br />
The art of tattooing dates back to (at least) Neolithic times.<br />
Patterns of simple dots <strong>and</strong> lines were found on ‘Otzi the<br />
Iceman’ – a well-preserved natural mummy discovered<br />
in the Otztal Alps, who lived in around 3,000 BC. These<br />
patterns were situated on his lower spine, behind his knees<br />
<strong>and</strong> on his ankles, which led researchers to think the tattoos<br />
were considered a method of healing as they mirrored the<br />
stimulation sites of acupuncture.<br />
Traditional <strong>and</strong> tribal tattoos extend across centuries in<br />
many cultures, particularly in Asia, among the Polynesians,<br />
<strong>and</strong> in certain tribal groups in Africa, Borneo, Cambodia,<br />
Japan, Europe, New Zeal<strong>and</strong> <strong>and</strong> North <strong>and</strong> South America.<br />
Historically, tattoos were created by rubbing ash in<br />
wounds <strong>and</strong> open cuts, or making small incisions in the<br />
skin <strong>and</strong> filling them with coloured dye.<br />
18th Century<br />
The Dutch were the first Europeans to glimpse the shores of<br />
Samoa <strong>and</strong> notice the remarkable tattooing upon the legs<br />
<strong>and</strong> lower torso of the Samoan natives. At first sight, the<br />
Dutch explorers believed the Samoan tribes were wearing<br />
artfully woven silk stockings, but on further inspection<br />
discovered the markings were tattoos. The art of traditional<br />
tattooing in Samoa was passed from father to son <strong>and</strong><br />
involved a five-step process that lasted 10 days.<br />
Later in the 1700s, as Captain James Cook regaled<br />
Engl<strong>and</strong> with stories of the South Pacific, he reintroduced<br />
tattooing to the Western world for the first time since ancient<br />
times. Indeed, some of Cook’s men returned to Engl<strong>and</strong><br />
sporting tattoos they’d fashioned while at sea.<br />
19th Century<br />
Following the American Revolution, tattoos were described<br />
on government-issued protection papers to ensure correct<br />
identification <strong>and</strong> prevent the impressment of American<br />
citizens to the British Navy. Hence, tattoo artists experienced<br />
a huge upsurge in popularity <strong>and</strong> used everything from<br />
pigments to gunpowder in tattoo creation.<br />
The evolution<br />
of tattoo removal<br />
20th Century<br />
feature<br />
Throughout history, various methods have been trialled<br />
for use in tattoo removal. Preceding the introduction<br />
of laser tattoo removal systems, dermabrasion,<br />
salabrasion (where the skin is scrubbed with salt) <strong>and</strong><br />
excision with skin grafts were common techniques for<br />
tattoo removal. Trichloroacetic acid has also been used<br />
to remove the top layer of skin, reaching as deep as the<br />
layer where the ink resides.<br />
Historically, injections of wine, lime juice, garlic <strong>and</strong><br />
pigeon excrement were used in a bid to dissolve the ink<br />
pigment in regrettable tattoos.<br />
In the 1990s, laser tattoo removal entered the<br />
commercial market. Initially, this procedure involved<br />
continuous-wave lasers before Q-switch lasers, which<br />
deliver a pulsating light beam, were introduced.<br />
Considerable success in removing black <strong>and</strong><br />
darker coloured tattoo pigment can be achieved using<br />
Q-Switch lasers. A number of treatments (between 10<br />
<strong>and</strong> 20) are usually required to reach the desired result<br />
<strong>and</strong> lighter ink shades – blues, greens <strong>and</strong> acquas –<br />
typically remain in the skin after treatment.<br />
The latest innovation in tattoo removal technology<br />
uses lasers with a drastically shorter pulse width. This<br />
incurs a different, more effective, reaction in the skin,<br />
where the ink particles fragment <strong>and</strong> disperse before<br />
being flushed from the body. The shorter pulse width<br />
causes less trauma to the surrounding skin compared<br />
with other systems, <strong>and</strong> is more effective in shifting<br />
those difficult, lighter ink shades.<br />
Advancements such as these grant new hope to<br />
people who had previously given up on an ink-free<br />
body. Tattoo removal can now be achieved with fewer<br />
treatments, less reaction <strong>and</strong> more effective results.<br />
The 1950s began what is now referred to as ‘The Tattoo<br />
Renaissance’, <strong>and</strong> saw significant figures in popular culture<br />
introducing tattoos to the mainstream. Social movements<br />
saw tattoos emerge at the forefront of resistance, worn as a<br />
sign of rebellion or to signify extreme dedication to a cause.<br />
Members of countercultures began to select body art that<br />
would reinforce their cultural origins, <strong>and</strong> make a statement<br />
against the values of a predominantly white, heterosexual<br />
society. Similarly an increase in women’s tattooing coincided<br />
with the feminist movement in the 1970s.<br />
Toady, the electric tattoo machine signifies the most<br />
common method of tattooing. It delivers ink to the skin’s<br />
dermis via a single needle, or a group of needles, aligned on<br />
a bar. This bar oscillates <strong>and</strong> rapidly reinserts the needles<br />
into the skin – usually between 80 <strong>and</strong> 150 times per<br />
second. csbm<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 53
tattoo removal<br />
Breakthrough in<br />
tattoo removal<br />
PicoSure, from Cynosure, is changing the game of tattoo removal in<br />
Australia. Caitlin Bishop reports.<br />
Until now, since the introduction of laser tattoo removal<br />
to Australia more than a decade ago, there have<br />
been no significant breakthroughs in the technology<br />
behind ink removal. Those seeking to undo a past decision,<br />
<strong>and</strong> remove a tattoo they now regret, had limited options<br />
– traditional laser removal took numerous treatments,<br />
incurred a risk of scarring <strong>and</strong> typically could not completely<br />
remove the blue, aqua <strong>and</strong> green ink shades. Now, with the<br />
introduction of PicoSure from Cynosure to Australia, this<br />
reality has changed.<br />
PicoSure signifies an unprecedented innovation in laser<br />
technology. It delivers ultra-short pulse bursts of energy to<br />
the skin, causing a photomechanical reaction for improved<br />
clearance over fewer treatments.<br />
Queensl<strong>and</strong> cosmetic physician Dr Mary Dingley believes<br />
PicoSure has revolutionised tattoo removal. ‘The short pulse<br />
duration enables the laser to produce a much “cleaner”<br />
fracturing effect on tattoo pigments within the skin, while<br />
producing less thermal effects on the surrounding skin,’<br />
she says. ‘The upshot of this is that generally one needs<br />
fewer treatments to clear tattoos, there is less unwanted<br />
skin reaction <strong>and</strong> treatment is more comfortable.’<br />
PicoSure uses a pulse length of a trillionth of a second<br />
– called a picosecond. This pulse is 100 times shorter than<br />
that used in previous technology <strong>and</strong> causes a different,<br />
more effective, reaction in the skin.<br />
PicoSure delivers unique<br />
<strong>and</strong> unmatched results in<br />
tattoo removal<br />
Melbourne cosmetic doctor Dr David MacDonald,<br />
who has worked in tattoo removal for 25 years <strong>and</strong> has<br />
been using PicoSure since its introduction to Australia last<br />
December, says PicoSure delivers unique <strong>and</strong> unmatched<br />
results in tattoo removal. ‘These ultra-short pulses deliver<br />
a “shattering” effect on the ink, breaking the ink down into<br />
tiny dust-like particles which are then easily eliminated from<br />
the body,’ he explains. ‘Previous technology relied on a<br />
photothermal (or burning) effect which would deliver heat to<br />
the ink <strong>and</strong> surrounding tissues. This “burn” could damage<br />
skin <strong>and</strong> result in scarring. With PicoSure, because the<br />
54 www.cosbeauty.com.au
tattoo removal<br />
pulse width is so short, less injury <strong>and</strong> damage is caused to<br />
the surrounding skin.’<br />
Alongside a reduced risk of burning, PicoSure is touted<br />
to shift those colours that have been traditionally difficult to<br />
remove. According to Dr Dingley, each tattoo is different but<br />
the chance of success has improved with the introduction<br />
of PicoSure.<br />
‘Most colours respond better with PicoSure than with<br />
prior lasers, including blues <strong>and</strong> greens,’ Dr Dingley says.<br />
‘It is always hard to say if a tattoo will completely disappear.<br />
Our chances are certainly better now, but some tattoos are<br />
done very heavily <strong>and</strong> there are some very unusual inks out<br />
there at times which may, perhaps, not respond completely<br />
to any laser.’<br />
Treatment with PicoSure often requires some form<br />
of topical anaesthetic <strong>and</strong> typically several treatments<br />
are recommended to achieve optimum results. Victorian<br />
dermatologist Dr Philip Bekhor has been using PicoSure<br />
since its arrival in Australia <strong>and</strong> has achieved positive<br />
results, with less adverse reaction, in his patients.<br />
‘It is still early days but the PicoSure is very gentle, <strong>and</strong><br />
we have seen a difference compared with other lasers,’ Dr<br />
Bekhor explains. ‘With PicoSure there is less reaction, less<br />
pain during treatment <strong>and</strong> a faster result.’<br />
Dr Bekhor often recommends eight weeks between<br />
treatments, <strong>and</strong> hopes to clear tattoos in five to seven<br />
treatments using PicoSure, as opposed to between 10 <strong>and</strong><br />
20 treatments with other lasers.<br />
As with any laser treatment, there is some post-procedure<br />
downtime involved. Redness, swelling <strong>and</strong> scabbing<br />
can occur directly after treatment. However, because<br />
PicoSure uses a shorter wavelength <strong>and</strong> incurs fewer<br />
treatments, the risk of scarring is considerably reduced, as<br />
Dr Dingley explains.<br />
‘After treatment, side effects are generally the same,<br />
but to a lesser degree, than with other lasers’, Dr Dingley<br />
says. ‘Scarring is a possibility with any such skin treatment,<br />
however, because the effect on normal skin is less <strong>and</strong><br />
there are fewer treatments, this risk is proportionately<br />
less than with prior lasers. Tattoo<br />
pigment will take several weeks to<br />
fade after treatment.’<br />
From changing employment<br />
to romantic milestones, people<br />
seek tattoo removal for a number<br />
of reasons. Dr Bekhor believes<br />
PicoSure signifies new hope for<br />
those who have given up on tattoo<br />
removal in the past. Similarly,<br />
Dr Dingley says tattoo removal with<br />
PicoSure can be a life changing<br />
treatment for certain patients.<br />
‘Most patients say their tattoos<br />
BEFORE<br />
seemed like a good idea at the time<br />
but then their circumstances changed or they just didn’t<br />
feel like the same person that the tattoo suited,’ she says.<br />
‘Parents often want a tattoo removed because of the effect<br />
it might have on their children. One father, who had amateur<br />
tattoos of some swear words on his h<strong>and</strong>s, wanted to<br />
have them removed before his children could read them.<br />
As amateur tattoos tend to be very easily removed, after<br />
just one treatment the words were already illegible, with<br />
just a few spots left which disappeared with the following<br />
treatment. He stood straighter already when he came for<br />
the second treatment <strong>and</strong> no longer felt ashamed.’ csbm<br />
BEFORE<br />
BEFORE (ink bled during tattoo treatment)<br />
AFTER seven treatments with traditional<br />
Q-switched nanosecond laser<br />
AFTER two PicoSure treatments (photos<br />
courtesy of Dr Alex Kaplan)<br />
AFTER one PicoSure treatments (photos<br />
courtesy of Carmen V<strong>and</strong>erHeiden)<br />
AFTER one treatment with PicoSure laser<br />
(photos courtesy of Dr Raminder Saluja)<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 55
7<br />
IS YOUR SKIN AGEING FASTER THAN YOU ARE?<br />
LEARN WHICH LIFESTYLE CHOICES TO AVOID IN<br />
ORDER TO STAY LOOKING YOUNGER FOR LONGER.<br />
CAITLIN BISHOP REPORTS.<br />
feature<br />
Dehydration<br />
Adequate hydration is responsible for that<br />
plump, dewy look <strong>and</strong> feel of healthy skin.<br />
Moisture within the skin, <strong>and</strong> the level of<br />
internal hydration, brightens <strong>and</strong> nourishes<br />
the complexion <strong>and</strong> can help slow the<br />
process of ageing.<br />
Internal water resides in interstitial fl uid,<br />
which surrounds the cells throughout the<br />
body. This fl uid plays an essential role in<br />
delivering nutrients <strong>and</strong> removing waste<br />
to <strong>and</strong> from the skin <strong>and</strong> other tissues.<br />
Without a suffi cient water reserve, this<br />
essential exchange is impeded <strong>and</strong> skin<br />
cell renewal becomes slower.<br />
Sun exposure<br />
Wrinkles, discolouration <strong>and</strong> textural changes are just<br />
some of the ways sun damage can affect the skin. Years<br />
of sun exposure cause the inner layers of the skin to<br />
thicken, impeding moisture retention <strong>and</strong> leading to<br />
dehydration. This is to the detriment of skin health <strong>and</strong><br />
can increase the appearance of fi ne lines <strong>and</strong> wrinkles,<br />
particularly around the eyes <strong>and</strong> mouth.<br />
Melanocytes, or pigment cells, act to protect the<br />
skin against damaging UV radiation. With too much<br />
sun exposure, these cells develop into sun lesions,<br />
forming spots or patches of hyperpigmentation or hypopigmentation<br />
across the face <strong>and</strong> body.<br />
Sun exposure also accelerates the deterioration of<br />
collagen <strong>and</strong> elastin in the skin, leading to thinner texture,<br />
increased laxity <strong>and</strong> reduced resilience.<br />
Stress<br />
The mind <strong>and</strong> skin are inextricably linked <strong>and</strong><br />
stress can manifest itself on the appearance<br />
in a variety of ways. The hormonal fl uctuations<br />
associated with stress – namely the increase<br />
of cortisol – boosts the production of oil on the<br />
skin, which can infl ame rosacea, psoriasis <strong>and</strong><br />
acne. Extended periods of stress can result in<br />
breakouts, uneven tone <strong>and</strong> fi ne lines.<br />
By nourishing the complexion, <strong>and</strong><br />
nurturing the body as a whole, regular<br />
exercise, dedicated ‘time out’ <strong>and</strong> a healthy<br />
diet <strong>and</strong> sleep regime is essential for boosting<br />
skin vibrancy <strong>and</strong> slowing the ageing process.<br />
56 www.cosbeauty.com.au
Lack of sleep<br />
Although beauty sleep is not a new concept,<br />
recent research has taken a step towards verifying<br />
the link between those hours of slumber <strong>and</strong> skin health. A<br />
clinical trial, conducted at the University Hospitals Case Medical<br />
Center <strong>and</strong> commissioned by skincare giant Estée Lauder,<br />
found sleep enhanced the skin’s ability to overcome stress <strong>and</strong><br />
restore itself from the inside out.<br />
People who regularly sleep well were able to recover from<br />
skin stress faster than those who didn’t, <strong>and</strong> poor sleepers<br />
took longer to overcome sunburn. Those participants who had<br />
regular <strong>and</strong> suffi cient shut-eye had an average skin rating of<br />
more than two points higher than those who struggled with a<br />
good night’s sleep.<br />
Smoking<br />
Smoking manifests itself in a number of ways, both<br />
within the body <strong>and</strong>, most visibly, on the skin. There<br />
is evidence to suggest tobacco smoke reduces<br />
the amount of blood, oxygen <strong>and</strong> nutrients<br />
reaching the dermis <strong>and</strong> nourishing<br />
the skin. This persistent starvation<br />
damages connective tissue <strong>and</strong><br />
hinders the body’s ability to generate<br />
new collagen <strong>and</strong> elastin, leading to<br />
increased skin laxity <strong>and</strong> wrinkles.<br />
There is also speculation that<br />
tobacco smoke is phototoxic,<br />
meaning it magnifi es the effects of<br />
ultraviolet light (UV) on the skin.<br />
Bad diet<br />
feature<br />
Skin health is established<br />
from the inside out, <strong>and</strong><br />
the way we fuel our body is<br />
refl ected in our complexion. A<br />
bad diet not only reaps havoc<br />
on our waistline <strong>and</strong> energy<br />
levels, but also detracts from the<br />
skin’s natural glow.<br />
A diet starved of antioxidants, vitamins<br />
<strong>and</strong> essential fatty acids will leave the skin<br />
dehydrated, prone to irritation, <strong>and</strong> uneven<br />
in texture <strong>and</strong> tone. For example, fatty acid<br />
chains play a vital role in maintaining cell<br />
membranes. Without suffi cient Omega<br />
3 <strong>and</strong> Omega 6, these membranes are<br />
disturbed <strong>and</strong> the protective effi cacy<br />
of the skin is compromised – leading to<br />
irritation <strong>and</strong> uneven texture.<br />
Because excess salt contributes to<br />
water retention, diets high in sodium –<br />
often found in overly processed foods<br />
– can result in a swollen, puffy look to<br />
the skin. Dehydrating substances, for<br />
example caffeine <strong>and</strong> alcohol, dry out<br />
the skin <strong>and</strong> slow skin cell renewal. This<br />
leaves the skin prone to irritation <strong>and</strong><br />
increases the appearance of fi ne lines<br />
<strong>and</strong> wrinkles. Also, diets high in sugar<br />
can result in increased oil production<br />
<strong>and</strong> accelerated skin cell division –<br />
factors that can cause bouts of acne <strong>and</strong><br />
textural inconsistencies.<br />
ANTI AGEING<br />
Not enough exercise<br />
While the benefi ts of exercise on cardiovascular health are widely<br />
touted, the effect of exercise on the skin is not so widely acknowledged.<br />
Exercise cleanses the skin from the inside out. By increasing<br />
blood fl ow <strong>and</strong> boosting the levels of oxygen <strong>and</strong> nutrients delivered<br />
to the skin, exercise helps nourish skin cells <strong>and</strong> enhance the<br />
complexion. Alongside this infl ux of beautifying nutrients, increased<br />
blood fl ow fl ushes waste products, including free radicals, from<br />
working skin cells.<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 57
feature<br />
58 www.cosbeauty.com.au
STOP<br />
the<br />
clock<br />
feature<br />
anti ageing<br />
Regenerative medicine is revolutionising the world of anti-ageing<br />
<strong>and</strong> aesthetics, promoting younger looking skin from the inside out.<br />
Caitlin Bishop reports.<br />
By kick-starting the body’s natural processes <strong>and</strong><br />
energising cellular activity, regenerative medicine<br />
works to repair, heal <strong>and</strong> reverse the signs of<br />
ageing from within. It uses specialised cells, genes or other<br />
biological building blocks to restore, replace <strong>and</strong> repair<br />
damaged or aged tissues.<br />
Regenerative medicine has potential in reversing <strong>and</strong><br />
preventing damage to vital organs, growing new organs<br />
in patients with organ failure <strong>and</strong> countering the effects of<br />
neuro-degenerative diseases such as dementia, Alzheimer’s<br />
disease <strong>and</strong> Parkinson’s disease. Its success in the medical<br />
arena has extended to impact the world of aesthetics, where<br />
platelet rich plasma, stem cells <strong>and</strong> certain light therapies<br />
are used to optimise results in cosmetic enhancement.<br />
PRP<br />
Platelet Rich Plasma (PRP) gained significant traction in the<br />
world of aesthetic medicine when celebrity Kim Kardashian<br />
posted a photo on social media during a PRP treatment.<br />
But shock value <strong>and</strong> popular trends aside, autologous PRP<br />
signifies an innovative <strong>and</strong> seemingly endlessly applicable<br />
rejuvenation therapy.<br />
It use a concentration of platelets, from the patient’s own<br />
blood, to promote healing in both hard <strong>and</strong> soft tissues.<br />
With a history of use in orthopaedics, sports medicine,<br />
wound healing, neurosurgery, dentistry <strong>and</strong> ophthalmology,<br />
its introduction into cosmetic <strong>and</strong> plastic surgery was<br />
virtually inevitable.<br />
The treatment involves sampling the patient’s own blood,<br />
centrifuging the sample to concentrate the platelets <strong>and</strong><br />
growth factors in a small volume of plasma, <strong>and</strong> reinjecting<br />
the concentrated product into the treatment area.<br />
PRP is touted to assist in rejuvenating the complexion,<br />
reducing the appearance of fine lines <strong>and</strong> wrinkles, evening<br />
skin texture <strong>and</strong> brightening skin tone. It does this by<br />
triggering the skin’s own regenerative mechanisms <strong>and</strong><br />
inducing the proliferation of fibroblasts, osteoblasts <strong>and</strong><br />
endothelial cells.<br />
Platelet rich plasma can be used as a st<strong>and</strong>alone<br />
procedure to treat specific concerns – for example,<br />
wrinkles, scarring <strong>and</strong> dark circles under the eyes – or in<br />
conjunction with other modalities to optimise results <strong>and</strong><br />
reduce scarring following surgery.<br />
In fuelling the dermis with growth factors <strong>and</strong> stimulating<br />
the cell renewal process, PRP can be injected around<br />
the eyes, across the cheeks, mid-face <strong>and</strong> forehead, <strong>and</strong><br />
along the jaw line <strong>and</strong> décolletage.<br />
Stem cells<br />
A definite buzzword in the world of skincare <strong>and</strong> cosmetic<br />
rejuvenation, stem cells signify the cutting-edge of<br />
regenerative science. Recent research has revealed their<br />
remarkable potential in the world of cosmetic surgery,<br />
particularly in conjunction with fat grafting. They are<br />
thought to replenish <strong>and</strong> restore the aged cells <strong>and</strong> tissues<br />
within the skin.<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 59
feature<br />
Recent research has revealed<br />
the remarkable potential of<br />
stem cells in the field of<br />
cosmetic surgery, particularly in<br />
conjunction with fat grafting<br />
Fat transfer <strong>and</strong> stem cells<br />
Fat grafting, where the patient’s own fat is harvested for use<br />
elsewhere in the body, is commonly used in cosmetic <strong>and</strong><br />
plastic surgery. It can help achieve natural-looking results<br />
in facial rejuvenation <strong>and</strong> breast enhancement, <strong>and</strong> can be<br />
used in place of dermal fillers to restore facial volume loss.<br />
The problem with autologous fat grafting is ‘reabsorption’,<br />
which occurs when the body absorbs volume from the fat<br />
graft following insertion.<br />
There is, however, a unique reserve of adult stem<br />
<strong>and</strong> regenerative cells in fatty tissue, which could inhibit<br />
reabsorption <strong>and</strong> revolutionise the results seen in fat grafting<br />
procedures. Collectively, these cells are known as adiposederived<br />
regenerative cells (ADRCs). They have been used<br />
in breast augmentation <strong>and</strong> reconstruction following<br />
mastectomy, as fillers in non-surgical facial rejuvenation <strong>and</strong><br />
in treating a variety of soft tissue injuries.<br />
Researchers at Copenhagen University Hospital in<br />
Denmark have recently conducted the first r<strong>and</strong>omised<br />
human trial examining the outcomes of infusing fat grafts<br />
with concentrations of ADRCs in plastic surgery. They<br />
found that stem cell-enriched grafts retained 80.9 percent<br />
of their volume following insertion, compared to 16.3<br />
percent for the st<strong>and</strong>ard-control grafts. Also, the presence<br />
of stem cells had an added anti-ageing effect in triggering<br />
the formation of new connective tissue, including collagen<br />
<strong>and</strong> elastin, at the treatment site.<br />
Although the use of ADRCs alongside fat transfer is<br />
relatively new in aesthetic medicine, <strong>and</strong> further research<br />
is required to ensure the safety <strong>and</strong> efficacy of treatment,<br />
the existing research shows exciting promise for future<br />
possibilities in aesthetic <strong>and</strong> reconstructive surgery.<br />
Stem cells in skincare<br />
From plant extracts to reprogrammed cell lines, the use of<br />
stem cells in skincare is a competitive <strong>and</strong> ever-evolving<br />
field. Plant stem cells are commonly used in skincare<br />
<strong>and</strong> are said to automatically renew into several types of<br />
differentiated cells. They are thought to stimulate the activity<br />
of fibroblasts, which generate collagen in the dermis,<br />
<strong>and</strong> deliver phytonutrients <strong>and</strong> proteins to improve skin<br />
resilience <strong>and</strong> structure.<br />
Moreover, the plant-derived stem cells in anti-ageing<br />
lotions are touted to reactivate the adult stem cells already<br />
present in the skin’s deeper layers. These adult stem cells<br />
are responsible for skin homeostasis, skin repair <strong>and</strong> hair<br />
regeneration, <strong>and</strong> the plant stem cells are thought to protect<br />
this natural reserve for long-term anti-ageing benefit.<br />
Promises aside, there is limited evidence to support<br />
the efficacy of stem cells in skincare. Critics are sceptical<br />
at the ability of skincare ingredients to effectively<br />
penetrate the epidermis <strong>and</strong> act upon the skin’s deeper<br />
layers, where the production of collagen <strong>and</strong> elastin is<br />
cultivated. Similarly, the concentration of active ingredients<br />
in skincare is not always sufficient to incur any change to<br />
the skin’s processes.<br />
Light therapy<br />
Low-level light therapy can initiate <strong>and</strong> promote cellular<br />
processes in the skin <strong>and</strong> underlying tissue. When light<br />
energy is harnessed at a certain wavelength, this can boost<br />
cellular turnover, increase blood flow <strong>and</strong> stimulate collagen<br />
production in the dermis.<br />
Regeneration using light at different wavelengths has<br />
been shown to accelerate wound healing, stimulate hair<br />
growth, treat active acne, <strong>and</strong> to deliver pleasing results as<br />
a non-invasive approach to facial rejuvenation.<br />
During light treatment, <strong>and</strong> for an extended period of<br />
time following treatment, blood, oxygen <strong>and</strong> nutrients flood<br />
the treatment area. This enhances cellular processes <strong>and</strong><br />
increases energy production for an all-encompassing,<br />
systemic effect. Notably, light therapy has been shown to<br />
incur a thermal effect, which has been used to increase<br />
movement <strong>and</strong> relieve spasms in cerebral palsy patients.<br />
In aesthetics, light therapy helps improve skin radiance<br />
<strong>and</strong> strengthen skin structure. It accelerates the skin’s<br />
natural processes – for example collagen production <strong>and</strong><br />
skin cell turnover – to help reverse the signs of ageing <strong>and</strong><br />
rejuvenate the complexion. csbm<br />
60 www.cosbeauty.com.au
The Gold St<strong>and</strong>ard for Medical<br />
<strong>and</strong> Aesthetic LED Skin Care<br />
The Omnilux TM Light Therapy system offers<br />
single platform technology <strong>and</strong> multiple<br />
wavelength heads for the treatment<br />
of Skin Rejuvenation, Acne, Joint Pain<br />
Management & PDT.<br />
Omnilux TM emits light at specific,<br />
narrowb<strong>and</strong> wavelengths to ensure<br />
optimal photobiomodulation of target skin<br />
cells <strong>and</strong> maximum treatment efficacy.<br />
• Pioneered Research <strong>and</strong><br />
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For consumer enquiries omnilux.com.au Trade enquiries www.omnilux.com.au or call 1800 808 993
feature<br />
The ins<br />
& outs of<br />
facial ageing<br />
62 www.cosbeauty.com.au
feature<br />
anti ageing<br />
Facial ageing involves a number of processes, stemming from a<br />
diverse range of causes. Caitlin Bishop reports.<br />
Plump, clear skin <strong>and</strong> refined, round contours are the<br />
hallmarks of youthfulness, <strong>and</strong> the quest to maintain<br />
this look of vitality is an age-old story. While there is<br />
a range of treatments <strong>and</strong> procedures that can help restore<br />
the ageing face, an underst<strong>and</strong>ing of how <strong>and</strong> why the face<br />
ages can make the physical process – <strong>and</strong> countless antiageing<br />
options – a little less daunting.<br />
Gauntness, skin laxity, deep facial hollows <strong>and</strong> heavy,<br />
drooping fat pockets all contribute to an aged appearance.<br />
While a strong skincare regime, combined with healthy<br />
lifestyle factors, can help increase skin integrity <strong>and</strong> slow<br />
the visible manifestations of ageing, a great portion of the<br />
ageing process is down to genetics.<br />
On the surface<br />
The epidermis is the outermost layer of cells in the skin.<br />
With age, these cells have a reduced turnover cycle,<br />
meaning the epidermis becomes weaker <strong>and</strong> less resilient<br />
to outside stressors. Also, sebaceous gl<strong>and</strong>s in the skin<br />
secrete less sebum with age, leading to increased water<br />
loss <strong>and</strong>, following this, greater dehydration.<br />
Over time, similar deterioration is seen in the dermalepidermal<br />
junction. This barrier, between the superficial skin<br />
cells <strong>and</strong> the deeper dermis, becomes shallower with age,<br />
detracting from skin health <strong>and</strong> further slowing the rate of<br />
cellular turnover.<br />
The dermis is the skin’s deepest layer, <strong>and</strong> holds the<br />
connective tissue – collagen <strong>and</strong> elastin – that gives the skin<br />
its resilience <strong>and</strong> structure. The dermis is rich in vascularity,<br />
<strong>and</strong> plays an essential role in fuelling the epidermis with<br />
oxygen <strong>and</strong> nutrients. With age, the dermis loses both<br />
cellular <strong>and</strong> fibrous content; it becomes dehydrated,<br />
thinner, looser <strong>and</strong> more fragile.<br />
Intrinsic vs extrinsic<br />
Cutaneous ageing, or skin ageing, is caused by two distinct<br />
variables – intrinsic <strong>and</strong> extrinsic factors.<br />
Intrinsic ageing is an inevitable process, dictated by<br />
genetics <strong>and</strong> time. It’s determined by our genetic clock <strong>and</strong><br />
affected by the degenerative effects of free radicals <strong>and</strong><br />
the body’s inability to repair damaged cells. Intrinsic ageing<br />
wears away at cells, tissues <strong>and</strong> vital organs, causing<br />
changes to muscle, fat, bone <strong>and</strong> – most visibly – the skin.<br />
Our 20s mark the beginning of the intrinsic ageing<br />
process. Collagen production slows, elastin becomes less<br />
springy <strong>and</strong> skin cell turnover decreases. While the process<br />
is continuous, the visible signs of intrinsic ageing do not<br />
become noticeable until decades later. The apparent signs<br />
include the loss <strong>and</strong> descent of underlying fat, which leads<br />
to hollowed cheeks <strong>and</strong> eye sockets. This is partnered with<br />
a loss of firmness <strong>and</strong> sagging skin, caused by changes to<br />
the underlying support structures.<br />
Genes control how quickly the normal ageing process<br />
unfolds. At a cellular level, ageing is thought to be related<br />
to the shortening of telomeres (the terminal portions of<br />
chromosomes) with each cell cycle, resulting in cell-cycle<br />
arrest or cell death once a critical length is reached.<br />
Extrinsic ageing occurs alongside this natural, genetically<br />
predetermined process. It signifies the ‘preventable’ side of<br />
ageing <strong>and</strong> encompasses those environmental factors that<br />
magnify <strong>and</strong> accelerate the natural ageing process.<br />
Extrinsic ageing can involve UV radiation, air pollution,<br />
gravity <strong>and</strong> smoking. It manifests itself in a variety of ageassociated<br />
skin changes, including thinning, laxity, fragility<br />
<strong>and</strong> wrinkles. Sun exposure is the greatest culprit, causing<br />
dyspigmentation, premature wrinkling, telangiectasia <strong>and</strong><br />
actinic elastosis.<br />
The scaffolding<br />
Facial bones, the deepest support structure to the skin,<br />
shrink <strong>and</strong> remodel with age. These foundational, threedimensional<br />
changes contribute to the appearance of<br />
hollowness <strong>and</strong> volume loss.<br />
The most pronounced skeletal difference in both sexes<br />
is measured in the T-zone. In women, the area between<br />
the brows <strong>and</strong> top of the nose (glabellar angle) is shown<br />
to decrease, while the area under the rim of the eyebrows<br />
retreats also, leading to sagging brows <strong>and</strong> a deflated<br />
eyelid area. In men, the change to the glabellar angle<br />
occurs alongside a deterioration to the maxillary angle in<br />
the cheeks.<br />
Accentuating these skeletal changes, the malar fat pad,<br />
which is responsible for cheek fullness, slides down <strong>and</strong><br />
forward, pushing against the nasolabial fold <strong>and</strong> making the<br />
jowls appear more pronounced. Bones can also recede in<br />
the pyriform angle (the opening of the nose), causing the<br />
appearance of an elongated nose <strong>and</strong> a drooping nasal tip.<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 63
feature<br />
Why do we age?<br />
The outward signs of ageing are well recognised, but what<br />
is happening at the cellular level is a little more obscure. In<br />
basic terms, ageing can be seen when cellular death occurs<br />
at a rate at which the cells cannot be suffi ciently replaced.<br />
Numerous theories abound as to what causes the<br />
ageing process. Some theories claim ageing is based<br />
on a genetically controlled biological timetable, while<br />
others attribute ageing to environmental assaults on our<br />
systems, such as ultraviolet light, cell tissue wear <strong>and</strong> tear<br />
<strong>and</strong> by-products of metabolic processes. Ageing is most<br />
likely a combination of several processes <strong>and</strong> the widely<br />
accepted theory today is that unrepaired accumulated<br />
cellular damage, caused by free radicals generated<br />
by ongoing normal metabolism <strong>and</strong> contributed to by<br />
environmental sources, is the basis of ageing.<br />
Oxidative damage is a natural chemical process that<br />
occurs when oxygen molecules combust within the<br />
human body <strong>and</strong> release by-products referred to as<br />
oxygen free radicals. These highly reactive free radicals,<br />
or oxidants, are incomplete molecules that either steal<br />
electrons from surrounding molecules or donate their<br />
remaining electrons to a nearby molecule.<br />
In the process, the radicals create molecular instability<br />
that damages, disrupts or destroys nearby cells which<br />
can cause mutations in the sequence of genetic material<br />
(DNA) <strong>and</strong> alter the structure of tissues <strong>and</strong> their functions.<br />
The accumulation of these changes is thought to lead to<br />
the development of ageing <strong>and</strong> degenerative diseases.<br />
In addition to normal metabolic processes, free<br />
radicals are produced exogenously through smoking,<br />
environmental pollutants, exposure to ultraviolet rays <strong>and</strong><br />
eating certain carcinogenic foods.<br />
The body’s natural defence mechanisms against free<br />
radicals are referred to as antioxidants. They are used<br />
to neutralise free radicals before they can cause further<br />
damage. Ensuring a daily intake of antioxidants from fresh<br />
fruit <strong>and</strong> vegetables, avoiding smoking <strong>and</strong> protecting<br />
skin from the sun can reduce the risk of degenerative<br />
diseases as well as the visual signs of ageing.<br />
Volumetrics<br />
Volume is a major component to facial aesthetics. Plump,<br />
rounded contours signify youthfulness <strong>and</strong> vibrancy, <strong>and</strong><br />
some aspects of the face – particularly the middle third –<br />
should be considered from a three-dimensional, rather than<br />
two-dimensional, perspective in anti-ageing treatment.<br />
The rule of thirds is commonly used in aesthetic medicine<br />
to achieve even, holistic results. In this, the face is divided<br />
into the upper third (forehead <strong>and</strong> brows), middle third (midface<br />
<strong>and</strong> nose), <strong>and</strong> a lower third (chin, jawline <strong>and</strong> neck).<br />
Notably, common perceptions of beauty revolve around<br />
the mid-face <strong>and</strong> the synergy between the eyes, nose, lips<br />
<strong>and</strong> cheekbones. A number of surgical <strong>and</strong> non-surgical<br />
procedures are aimed at repositioning facial fat <strong>and</strong> tissue,<br />
<strong>and</strong> restoring lost facial volume to regenerate this area,<br />
creating a natural-looking, more youthful appearance.<br />
A matter of fat<br />
Between varying intrinsic <strong>and</strong> extrinsic factors, ageing is<br />
a unique process, different for each individual. There are,<br />
however, some common themes <strong>and</strong> one of these is the<br />
loss <strong>and</strong> movement of fat.<br />
The youthful face exhibits full, well-supported fat<br />
pockets, where surrounding ligaments serve to fi xate the<br />
volume of fat to underlying structure. Yet over time, facial<br />
fat descends <strong>and</strong> causes the shape of our face to change.<br />
During middle age, the anchoring ligaments weaken,<br />
causing the facial fat to volumetrically protrude <strong>and</strong> descend<br />
in the cheek. This generates a squarer facial shape with<br />
less distinction between upper cheek roundness <strong>and</strong><br />
mid-facial fat.<br />
Alongside this volumetric defl ation, <strong>and</strong> also due to<br />
diminished support, laxity occurs in facial soft tissue <strong>and</strong><br />
the mid-face undergoes radial expansion. The descent of<br />
the facial fat, <strong>and</strong> increase in skin laxity, contributes to the<br />
long, heavy appearance of the ageing face.<br />
Ageing gracefully<br />
While a large part of the ageing process is predetermined<br />
by those relentless <strong>and</strong> inevitable intrinsic factors, the signs<br />
of skin ageing can be defi nately modifi ed through healthy<br />
lifestyle choices. Sun protection, a healthy diet, exercise<br />
<strong>and</strong> effective management of stress can preserve help skin<br />
health <strong>and</strong> ward off the visible signs of ageing. Taking a<br />
proactive approach can have you feeling that age, really is,<br />
just another number. csbm<br />
64 www.cosbeauty.com.au
feature<br />
Lingo Lowdown<br />
ANTI AGEING<br />
FROWN LINES<br />
GLABELLAR LINES<br />
CROW’S FEET<br />
MALAR BAGS, TEAR<br />
TROUGH DEPRESSION<br />
BUNNY LINES<br />
NASOLABIAL FOLDS<br />
VERMILLION BORDER<br />
ORAL COMMISSURES<br />
ACCORDIAN LINES<br />
SMOKERS’ LINES<br />
JOWLING<br />
MARIONETTE LINES AND<br />
PERIORAL WRINKLES<br />
EVER WONDER WHERE YOUR<br />
NASOLABIAL FOLDS ACTUALLY ARE,<br />
OR WHAT BUNNY LINES MEAN?<br />
So you’ve made the decision to consult your<br />
doctor about getting rid of those pesky lines<br />
<strong>and</strong> wrinkles. But before you can underst<strong>and</strong><br />
your treatment options you’ll need to learn the lingo.<br />
Check out our visual guide to fi nd out!<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 65
feature<br />
top 10<br />
anti-ageing<br />
procedures<br />
66 www.cosbeauty.com.au
feature<br />
anti ageing<br />
anti-ageing procedures<br />
The face shows wear <strong>and</strong> tear faster than any other area of the<br />
body. Here are 10 of the most popular cosmetic procedures to stop<br />
facial ageing in its tracks. AimÉe Surtenich reports.<br />
Facelift<br />
A facelift is a surgical procedure to reposition <strong>and</strong> tighten<br />
underlying facial muscles <strong>and</strong> tissues as well as reduce<br />
excess skin. Incisions are usually made just inside the<br />
hairline at the temple <strong>and</strong> around the ear.<br />
Healing is a progressive process, with swelling <strong>and</strong><br />
bruising usually subsiding after two to three weeks. The full<br />
result of a facelift may take a few months to realise, with<br />
end results generally lasting from seven to 10 years.<br />
Eye Lift<br />
Blepharoplasty is a surgical procedure to improve the<br />
appearance of the upper <strong>and</strong>/or lower eyelids to give a<br />
more refreshed appearance to the surrounding area of the<br />
eyes. The incision for an upper lid blepharoplasty is in the lid<br />
crease <strong>and</strong> is made with either a scalpel or CO 2<br />
laser that<br />
seals the blood vessels as it incises. Skin, muscle <strong>and</strong> fat<br />
are removed to reduce hooding in the upper eyelid.<br />
Incisions for the lower lid blepharoplasty can be made<br />
either inside the eyelid or just below the lower lash line.<br />
Excess skin in the lower eyelids is removed through these<br />
incisions to correct under-eye bags or sagging.<br />
The results of eyelid surgery become apparent gradually,<br />
with swelling <strong>and</strong> bruising usually subsiding after around<br />
two weeks to reveal a smoother, better defined eye region<br />
<strong>and</strong> a more alert <strong>and</strong> rejuvenated appearance. Results<br />
typically last around seven to 10 years.<br />
BROW LIFT<br />
A brow lift raises the brow line by repositioning the muscles<br />
of the forehead. It also rejuvenates the upper eye area,<br />
reducing heaviness <strong>and</strong> sagging over the eyelid <strong>and</strong> at the<br />
outer edges of the eye.<br />
In endoscopic brow lifts, small incisions are made in the<br />
hairline, allowing the tissue <strong>and</strong> muscle beneath the skin<br />
to be repositioned or removed, correcting visible creases<br />
<strong>and</strong> furrows in the forehead. Swelling <strong>and</strong> bruising normally<br />
subside after two to six weeks to reveal smoother forehead<br />
skin <strong>and</strong> a more rejuvenated appearance.<br />
NECK LIFT<br />
Performed in conjunction with a facelift or as a st<strong>and</strong>alone<br />
procedure, a neck lift is designed to correct excess skin<br />
<strong>and</strong> fatty tissue of the neck (the so-called ‘turkey gobbler<br />
neck’), platysmal b<strong>and</strong>s which run from beneath the chin to<br />
the lower neck, as well as a poorly defined chin/neck angle<br />
<strong>and</strong> jaw line.<br />
The type of surgical technique used for a neck lift<br />
procedure depends on several factors, such as the degree<br />
of skin excess <strong>and</strong> laxity <strong>and</strong> the presence of fatty tissue.<br />
Liposuction of the chin <strong>and</strong>/or neck area may also be<br />
required to remove excess fatty deposits <strong>and</strong> help create a<br />
more defined chin/neck angle <strong>and</strong> jaw line.<br />
Recently there have been advancements in correcting<br />
an aged neck through less invasive means, offering less<br />
downtime <strong>and</strong> surgical intervention.<br />
RHINOPLASTY<br />
The nose ages along with the rest of the facial features, <strong>and</strong><br />
changes to the nose such as increased size <strong>and</strong> irregularity<br />
can make the face look older. Tip ptosis (drooping of the<br />
tip of the nose), in particular, is a hallmark feature of the<br />
ageing nose.<br />
Rhinoplasty improves the appearance of the nose to<br />
balance it with the other facial features. Nasal surgery is<br />
not just performed for cosmetic reasons; it can also correct<br />
impaired breathing caused by structural abnormalities.<br />
It is performed either using a closed procedure, where<br />
incisions are hidden inside the nose, or an open procedure,<br />
where an incision is made across the columella, the narrow<br />
strip of tissue that separates the nostrils.<br />
Swelling <strong>and</strong> bruising usually subsides after around 10<br />
days. Results are permanent <strong>and</strong> it may take up to a year<br />
for the new nasal contour to fully refine.<br />
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feature<br />
FAT TRANSFER<br />
Fat transfer is the process of removing fat cells, usually from<br />
the thighs or buttocks, <strong>and</strong> re-injecting them into areas of<br />
the face to restore a more youthful appearance.<br />
The use of a person’s own fat in this procedure means<br />
that allergic reactions <strong>and</strong> side effects caused by the<br />
introduction of foreign materials is avoided. Fat transfer can<br />
be used to correct cheek depressions, contour deformities,<br />
<strong>and</strong> to fill in deep laughter lines <strong>and</strong> facial wrinkles.<br />
The downtime is longer than other dermal filler treatments<br />
due to healing of the harvesting sites, but results can last up<br />
to three to five years, depending on the patient.<br />
THREAD LIFTING<br />
Thread lifting is a minimally invasive procedure designed to<br />
elevate the central face <strong>and</strong> redefine the contours with a<br />
shorter downtime compared with facelift surgery, almost<br />
immediate results <strong>and</strong> fewer risks.<br />
Latest advancements in thread lifting technology use<br />
minute soft barbs that gently lift sagging facial tissue to<br />
enhance the natural contours of the face <strong>and</strong> achieve a<br />
subtle lift. These threads are absorbable, meaning once<br />
placed under the skin they dissolve within nine to 12<br />
months, leaving the revitalising effects for several years<br />
to come.<br />
WRINKLE TREATMENTS,<br />
FILLERS & VOLUMISERS<br />
Muscle relaxants Botulinum toxin injections (also called<br />
muscle relaxants <strong>and</strong> wrinkle injections) work by relaxing<br />
wrinkle-causing muscles, which softens existing facial lines<br />
<strong>and</strong> can also prevent the formation of new ones.<br />
Small quantities of botulinum toxin are injected into<br />
several locations on the face such as the forehead <strong>and</strong><br />
crow’s feet area at the corners of the eyes, reducing nerve<br />
stimulation <strong>and</strong> therefore etched facial lines.<br />
Results can be seen immediately, although they may<br />
take up to four days to develop. The effects usually last<br />
four to six months. Treatment with botulinum toxin is<br />
not recommended for women who are pregnant or<br />
breastfeeding.<br />
Fillers These are injected into specific areas of the face<br />
to smooth lines <strong>and</strong> wrinkles or to add volume. Fillers are<br />
also used to contour <strong>and</strong> reshape facial features such as<br />
the nose, lips <strong>and</strong> cheeks. There are many different fillers<br />
available, ranging in longevity, composition <strong>and</strong> viscosity.<br />
Some formulas can be injected close to the skin’s<br />
surface to correct fine lines, such as in the under-eye area,<br />
while others are used in the deeper layers of the skin to<br />
build contours, especially in the cheek area.<br />
A small amount of swelling <strong>and</strong> bruising at the injection<br />
site may result but is not likely to last more than a few days.<br />
Results for most fillers are not permanent, usually lasting for<br />
several months to a couple of years.<br />
Volumiser Sculptra, a facial volumiser, works differently<br />
from traditional fillers. It is used to gradually build volume<br />
under the skin by working with the body’s natural collagen.<br />
Sculptra is made from poly-L-lactic acid <strong>and</strong> works by<br />
stimulating neocollagenesis under the skin (collagen<br />
production). Over a six-week period, lines, wrinkles,<br />
sunken cheeks, nasolabial folds <strong>and</strong> scars are all gradually<br />
diminished, affording subtle, natural-looking results that<br />
develop over time.<br />
LASER THERAPIES<br />
Laser therapies work by targeting tissue <strong>and</strong> can be<br />
used for a number of treatments, including pigmentation,<br />
scarring, unwanted hair, spider veins, sun-damaged skin,<br />
<strong>and</strong> wrinkle reduction. Recent advances in laser technology<br />
mean that laser skin resurfacing, once reserved for the<br />
treatment of severe conditions such as acne scarring<br />
due to the extensive downtime involved, has become an<br />
effective option for many people seeking reduction of lines<br />
<strong>and</strong> wrinkles <strong>and</strong> correction of pigmentation.<br />
Most resurfacing lasers work by removing microscopic<br />
quantities of skin <strong>and</strong> stimulating the production of new<br />
collagen. Non-ablative lasers use wavelengths which do<br />
not burn away skin <strong>and</strong> are suitable for the treatment of<br />
melasma, scarring, fine lines <strong>and</strong> wrinkles <strong>and</strong> typically do<br />
not require any downtime. Carbon dioxide (CO2) lasers can<br />
dramatically reduce wrinkles but down time <strong>and</strong> side effects<br />
such as redness are extended, usually taking many weeks<br />
to heal.<br />
The advent of fractionated laser technology, where<br />
microscopic columns of skin are treated while surrounding<br />
skin is left intact, has made it possible to achieve better<br />
results with fewer side effects. Fractionated technology has<br />
been applied to the CO 2<br />
laser, dramatically reducing the<br />
recovery time required from months to a couple of weeks.<br />
Results for all laser treatments vary, depending on the<br />
depth of treatment.<br />
PLATELET-RICH<br />
PLASMA INJECTIONS<br />
Platelet Rich Plasma (PRP) therapy uses the patient’s<br />
own blood plasma to rejuvenate a tired complexion. PRP<br />
contains certain growth factors that are central to tissue<br />
regeneration, <strong>and</strong> also stimulates new blood vessel<br />
formation <strong>and</strong> connective tissue repair.<br />
The treatment involves several injections of the patient’s<br />
own plasma, which is taken via a blood sample <strong>and</strong><br />
centrifuged to separate <strong>and</strong> concentrate the platelets<br />
from the blood. The whole treatment takes approximately<br />
one hour, with final results taking about three months to<br />
appear. csbm<br />
68 www.cosbeauty.com.au
top 10<br />
anti-ageing<br />
procedures<br />
other<br />
Age-defying<br />
procedures<br />
anti ageing<br />
Breast surgery<br />
Procedures that restore breast volume, but also lift the<br />
tissue, can be effective in creating a more youthful <strong>and</strong><br />
natural-looking result in breast rejuvenation. A breast lift,<br />
with or without augmentation, can improve the shape <strong>and</strong><br />
positioning of the breasts, while also adjusting the nipple<br />
areola complex.<br />
Another popular procedure for improving the appearance<br />
of ageing breasts is a breast reduction, which creates<br />
smaller, more pert breasts, while also alleviating associated<br />
physical discomfort.<br />
Body implants<br />
Body implants are used to create definition <strong>and</strong> volume to<br />
a range of areas on the body, such as the calves, arms,<br />
chest, buttocks, cheeks <strong>and</strong> chin. They can be used in<br />
cases of muscle atrophy which can become evident with<br />
age, among other indications such as previous surgery,<br />
injury or disease.<br />
Implants can be placed in any area where there is a nonmoving<br />
contour defect. An incision is made at the site <strong>and</strong><br />
the implant is inserted either above or below the muscle.<br />
Swelling <strong>and</strong> bruising may last several days.<br />
Results are location specific <strong>and</strong> are designed to<br />
realign the body through a subtle increase in volume to<br />
targeted areas.<br />
Hair transplant<br />
Hair loss can be a cause of psychological distress, especially<br />
for women suffering from female pattern baldness.<br />
Advances in hair transplant techniques allow patients<br />
to undergo procedures to thicken thinning areas while<br />
avoiding damage to existing hair follicles. Newer techniques<br />
also minimise scarring in both donor <strong>and</strong> recipient sites.<br />
<strong>Cosmetic</strong> dentistry<br />
A bright <strong>and</strong> white smile conveys youth, vitality <strong>and</strong> beauty.<br />
Modern cosmetic dentistry offers advanced techniques<br />
that can improve any smile.<br />
Porcelain or composite veneers can help straighten <strong>and</strong><br />
whiten teeth, implants can replace missing teeth, <strong>and</strong> teeth<br />
whitening procedures can brighten a dull <strong>and</strong> ageing smile.<br />
A dental makeover can help rejuvenate the entire face,<br />
creating a more youthful <strong>and</strong> healthy appearance.<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 69
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feature<br />
5<br />
steps to a<br />
successful surgery<br />
maximise your facial surgery results <strong>and</strong> recovery by<br />
following five key steps. tara casey reports.<br />
Even before making the decision to undergo facial<br />
surgery, patients can maximise their chances of<br />
achieving an optimal physical <strong>and</strong> psychological<br />
outcome by fully preparing themselves. This includes<br />
underst<strong>and</strong>ing what the procedure will involve, setting<br />
realistic expectations, learning about <strong>and</strong> acknowledging<br />
possible risks <strong>and</strong> complications, as well as planning for<br />
a prolonged period of recovery. It’s of equal importance to<br />
explore any underlying motivations for seeking change with<br />
friends <strong>and</strong> family, <strong>and</strong> to prepare the body physically for<br />
surgery by ensuring it’s in its best possible health.<br />
None of this can be rushed, but taking the time prior<br />
to surgery will help alleviate much of the anxiety that can<br />
surround cosmetic changes.<br />
72 www.cosbeauty.com.au
feature<br />
ANTI AGEING<br />
1<br />
Choose wisely<br />
Choosing a surgeon is one of the most important decisions<br />
facing someone thinking of undergoing facial surgery, <strong>and</strong><br />
one of the fi rst to be faced. The surgeon’s experience,<br />
training <strong>and</strong> judgement will all impact on the physical<br />
outcomes of surgery, as will their openness to discuss<br />
concerns <strong>and</strong> question the patient’s motivation during the<br />
consultation prior to surgery.<br />
When it comes to selecting a doctor for facial surgery,<br />
prospective patients should ensure their surgeon’s training<br />
<strong>and</strong> certifi cation is appropriate to the specifi c procedure<br />
they will be performing. Certifi cation from the relevant<br />
medical board or body reassures a patient the doctor has<br />
completed additional requirements surrounding continuing<br />
education <strong>and</strong> experience in cosmetic surgery.<br />
Trusted sources of information include the Australasian<br />
Society of Aesthetic Plastic <strong>Surgery</strong> (ASAPS), the<br />
Australasian College of <strong>Cosmetic</strong> <strong>Surgery</strong> (ACCS) <strong>and</strong> the<br />
Australasian Academy of Facial Plastic <strong>Surgery</strong> (AAFPS).<br />
2Keep it real<br />
For the right individual, facial surgery can restore<br />
confi dence on both the inside <strong>and</strong> out. It can be a highly<br />
successful procedure for people who are both physically<br />
healthy <strong>and</strong> psychologically sound. However, having a<br />
clear <strong>and</strong> realistic underst<strong>and</strong>ing of what a procedure<br />
can <strong>and</strong> can’t achieve is important prior to committing<br />
to surgery.<br />
Facial skin type <strong>and</strong> age will both infl uence surgical<br />
outcomes, so individuals interested in having surgery<br />
should meet with a qualifi ed surgeon to discuss individual<br />
expectations. By communicating which features of their<br />
face they are unhappy with initially, patients can look<br />
forward to a better post-surgery outcome.<br />
Similarly, if the motivation behind seeking surgery is<br />
to achieve a more youthful appearance, it’s important<br />
to acknowledge that, although this can be achieved in<br />
the short term, the face will continue to age <strong>and</strong> change<br />
over time. A good skincare regime <strong>and</strong> sun protection<br />
is always recommended as a long-term combatant to<br />
some of the effects of facial ageing, both before <strong>and</strong><br />
after a procedure.<br />
Despite its potential limitations, facelifts <strong>and</strong> other<br />
facial procedures remain popular because of the longlasting<br />
<strong>and</strong> noticeable results they can achieve. A facelift<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 73
feature<br />
is considered the gold st<strong>and</strong>ard of facial surgery in<br />
achieving dramatic outcomes for reversing the clock on<br />
patient’s faces. However, patients need to underst<strong>and</strong><br />
the limitations of their procedure in order to manage<br />
their reaction to the outcomes. The goal of a facelift<br />
<strong>and</strong> other facial surgery should be to rejuvenate the<br />
face <strong>and</strong> give it a fresher look, not to radically change<br />
its appearance.<br />
A facelift is a tailored procedure that will be altered<br />
according to the unique face shape of the patient,<br />
their underlying bone structure, age <strong>and</strong> general state<br />
of health.<br />
While facial skin is tightened <strong>and</strong> repositioned to<br />
create a more youthful-looking appearance, a facelift<br />
will not eliminate wrinkles or skin imperfections such as<br />
acne scars <strong>and</strong> hollows, <strong>and</strong> nor is it possible to alter<br />
the shape of the face.<br />
Similarly, signifi cantly older people with less elastic<br />
skin may not obtain the same cosmetic result that can<br />
be achieved in those with younger, more supple skin.<br />
3 Prep yourself<br />
When it comes to preparing for surgery, research is a suited to the individual. This will also help the surgeon<br />
fundamental aspect of patient safety <strong>and</strong> prospective determine the results that can realistically be achieved.<br />
patients are encouraged to learn as much as possible Lab testing or a medical evaluation may be required<br />
about the procedure they are seeking ahead of selecting in order to establish a patient’s level of health <strong>and</strong> fi tness,<br />
<strong>and</strong> meeting with their surgeon. It’s equally important for <strong>and</strong> alterations to any existing medication plan may be<br />
the surgeon to conduct his or her own research, which recommended. Aspirin <strong>and</strong> other blood thinning drugs,<br />
will take place during the consultation.<br />
for example, should not be taken in the lead up to<br />
The consultation provides the surgeon with the surgery, <strong>and</strong> smokers will need to stop well in advance<br />
opportunity to discuss the chosen procedure in detail of surgery due to the increase in surgical <strong>and</strong> anaesthetic<br />
with the patient. The surgeon will relay the type of complications caused by smoking tobacco.<br />
anaesthesia to be used, the risks, limitations <strong>and</strong> costs Along with the physical aspect of preparing for surgery,<br />
involved, <strong>and</strong> will outline the steps to take both leading it’s also important patients are mentally prepared for the<br />
up to <strong>and</strong> after surgery. Importantly, the surgeon will also change that will take place in their appearance. Not only<br />
be able to ask the patient about their expectations, goals are there physical complications associated with surgery<br />
<strong>and</strong> reasons for pursuing surgery.<br />
but there can also be psychological reactions.<br />
A full medical history will be taken during the Part of preparing for surgery means coming to terms<br />
consultation, <strong>and</strong> the surgeon will evaluate the shape with the fact that there will be a different face refl ected<br />
<strong>and</strong> structure of the patient’s facial bones, their skin tone in the mirror post-surgery. Being aware of this <strong>and</strong><br />
<strong>and</strong> elasticity, <strong>and</strong> the extent of facial ageing in order to accepting a ‘new <strong>and</strong> improved’ look will help patients<br />
determine which procedure <strong>and</strong> techniques are best return to normal, everyday life more readily.<br />
74 www.cosbeauty.com.au
4<br />
Underst<strong>and</strong><br />
the risks<br />
Every surgical procedure involves some risk. In skilled<br />
h<strong>and</strong>s, facial procedures have an excellent safety profile.<br />
But despite the highest st<strong>and</strong>ards of surgical practice,<br />
complications can still occur. The most effective way<br />
to minimise the risks is to have a thorough physical<br />
examination prior to surgery <strong>and</strong> to follow the surgeon’s<br />
advice <strong>and</strong> guidance.<br />
With most facial surgery procedures, some scarring<br />
should be expected, but an experienced surgeon can<br />
minimise <strong>and</strong> hide these scars so they become barely<br />
perceptible over time. For these reasons, it is important to<br />
choose a qualified <strong>and</strong> experienced surgeon.<br />
Complications following a facial procedure often<br />
prove to be temporary. These may include blood or fluid<br />
retention under the skin, crusting of scars <strong>and</strong> numbness.<br />
There is a minimal risk of nerve damage or infection.<br />
Complications vary from procedure to procedure: for<br />
example, neck <strong>and</strong> brow lifts are often considered less<br />
complicated <strong>and</strong> usually involve less pain <strong>and</strong> lower risk<br />
than a complete facelift.<br />
There are some more common post-operative facelift<br />
complications <strong>and</strong> side effects such as temporary nausea<br />
<strong>and</strong> general sickness after receiving anaesthesia. Although<br />
some light, post-operative bleeding is normal, uncontrolled<br />
bleeding is dangerous <strong>and</strong> can lead to haematomas.<br />
This develops where bleeding occurs under the skin,<br />
leaving the area painfully swollen <strong>and</strong> may require another<br />
operation to stop the flow <strong>and</strong> remove the blood.<br />
There is a slight chance of developing deep vein<br />
thrombosis, cardiac <strong>and</strong> pulmonary complications, or fat<br />
necrosis where fatty tissue dies. Localised infection may<br />
also occur, indicated by swelling, sensitivity, redness <strong>and</strong><br />
heat. Unless it is severe, an infection can usually be relieved<br />
with a course of antibiotics.<br />
The risks specific to facial surgery include injury to the<br />
nerves that control facial muscles; problems with healing,<br />
which is more frequent in patients who smoke; scarring;<br />
crust on the incisions; <strong>and</strong> numbness or tingling around<br />
the incisions. Skin loss or discolouration is rare but can<br />
occur <strong>and</strong> continue for several months.<br />
Some patients form raised keloid scars or suffer hair<br />
loss around the incisions. Hair transplant surgery may be<br />
needed to correct this <strong>and</strong> men may find they will need to<br />
shave extra areas because skin has been moved. Facelift<br />
surgery can also result in asymmetrical ears, but this can<br />
be corrected with minor surgery.<br />
feature<br />
5Immediately after surgery, patients will be taken to a<br />
recovery area. While some doctors prefer not to use<br />
b<strong>and</strong>ages, others may apply a loose-fitting wrap or a<br />
compression garment to facilitate healing. A compression<br />
garment is tight-fitting, <strong>and</strong> will help to reduce swelling by<br />
preventing fluid build-up, as well as provide comfort <strong>and</strong><br />
support. Although loose b<strong>and</strong>ages may be removed in<br />
several days, compression garments are often worn for up<br />
to a few weeks.<br />
Post-surgery, most patients can expect to experience<br />
some pain, bruising <strong>and</strong> swelling, most of which will<br />
subside within a few weeks. If a surgical drain was used, it<br />
will usually be removed within a day, <strong>and</strong> non-absorbable<br />
sutures may be removed in around seven to 10 days.<br />
Any discomfort experienced can be controlled with pain<br />
medication as needed.<br />
Some patients will be allowed to go home after a few<br />
hours, whereas others may stay overnight in a hospital or<br />
surgical facility.<br />
Keeping the head elevated by sitting up or propping<br />
it up on pillows is beneficial in reducing post-operative<br />
swelling. Surgeons may also recommend the use of a cold<br />
compress.<br />
The specific length of recovery is dependent on factors<br />
such as age, pre-operative activity level as well as the<br />
number <strong>and</strong> type of procedures that have been performed.<br />
However, most patients can usually return to everyday<br />
activities after between two <strong>and</strong> three weeks. Final results<br />
may not be evident until several months after surgery.<br />
During the recovery period, it is important that surgical<br />
incisions are not subjected to excessive force, abrasion<br />
or motion during healing. Patients should refrain from<br />
wearing any clothing that has to be pulled down over the<br />
head, as well as avoiding excessive sun exposure <strong>and</strong><br />
cigarette smoke.<br />
It is not uncommon for some patients to struggle with<br />
disappointment or depression immediately following<br />
surgery as the positive results often take several weeks<br />
to become noticeable. Only once the swelling has gone<br />
down <strong>and</strong> the face has finished healing will the results<br />
be visible. csbm<br />
Take<br />
time out<br />
anti ageing<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 75
face<br />
Preserving<br />
your<br />
complexion<br />
Sydney plastic surgeon<br />
Dr Warwick Nettle explains<br />
facelift surgery can achieve<br />
natural-looking, long-lasting<br />
results in FAcial rejuvenation.<br />
Caitlin Bishop reports.<br />
By correcting skin issues, preventing the visible signs<br />
of ageing <strong>and</strong> preserving a youthful complexion,<br />
facelift surgery can achieve effective, reliable <strong>and</strong><br />
long-lasting results in facial rejuvenation. While many<br />
patients can sometimes balk at the idea of surgery –<br />
fearful of appearing ‘overdone’ <strong>and</strong> wary of those st<strong>and</strong>out<br />
photographs of over-tightened celebrities – Sydney plastic<br />
surgeon Dr Warwick Nettle believes securing naturallooking<br />
results is both possible <strong>and</strong> paramount in facial<br />
rejuvenation surgery.<br />
I talk with my patients about<br />
the techniques I use to avoid the<br />
“tight” look, which I believe is<br />
100 percent avoidable<br />
Over the past 10 years there has been a quantum<br />
leap in the techniques <strong>and</strong> technologies involved in facial<br />
rejuvenation. At the root of these advancements is a better<br />
underst<strong>and</strong>ing of the ageing face. Where once the visible<br />
signs of ageing were solely attributed to loose <strong>and</strong> sagging<br />
skin, now a more all-encompassing process is recognised.<br />
‘Today, we underst<strong>and</strong> ageing characteristics are largely<br />
due to the deflation that takes place in the face, resulting<br />
in changes to the curves, volumes <strong>and</strong> proportions of the<br />
face as a whole,’ explains Dr Nettle. ‘Over time, changes<br />
take place in the bone, muscle, fat <strong>and</strong> skin – each one<br />
impacting the other. This causes a deflation wave that<br />
results in the appearance of sagging.’<br />
Alongside this deeper underst<strong>and</strong>ing has been a change<br />
in the techniques used to improve the appearance of the<br />
ageing face. Whereas the solution, once upon a time, was<br />
to simply tighten the skin, Dr Nettle explains the emphasis<br />
should be upon the preservation <strong>and</strong> relocation of tissue<br />
layers. During modern facelift surgery, adjustments are<br />
made to the underlying muscle <strong>and</strong> tissues, before redraping<br />
the skin over the newly defined contours.<br />
‘During the consultation I will talk a lot with my patients<br />
about the techniques I use to avoid the “tight” look, which<br />
I believe is 100 percent avoidable,’ he says. ‘It’s important<br />
to underst<strong>and</strong> that changes take place from the inside out,<br />
not just on the surface of the skin.’<br />
Dr Nettle says common patient concerns typically<br />
include the appearance of the upper <strong>and</strong> lower eye region,<br />
the neckline <strong>and</strong> jowl area.<br />
However, to achieve natural looking results, he says<br />
the face must be addressed as a whole, often combining<br />
a number of procedures to create optimal results. ‘Most<br />
people recognise the major issues that need addressing<br />
– the eyelids, neck <strong>and</strong> jawline, for example – but if you<br />
neglect the mid-face <strong>and</strong> leave a noticeable nasolabial fold,<br />
the results will be less than satisfactory,’ he explains. ‘It’s<br />
by combining a number of procedures such as a face <strong>and</strong><br />
neck lift, blepharoplasty <strong>and</strong> microdermabrasion, that the<br />
most natural-looking results are achieved.’<br />
During full-facial rejuvenation, Dr Nettle may also extract<br />
fat from the stomach for reinjection into the mid-face. ‘Fat<br />
transfer used to be a popular technique for adding volume<br />
to the face, however today we inject even smaller volumes<br />
of fat in order to achieve rejuvenation of the skin,’ he says.<br />
76 www.cosbeauty.com.au
‘The fat is rich in stem cells, which makes a huge difference<br />
to the appearance of the skin after the procedure.’<br />
In a unique approach to conquering wrinkles in the upper<br />
lip – something that is only seen in women – Dr Nettle often<br />
performs dermabrasion during surgery. ‘In my experience,<br />
this is more effective than laser <strong>and</strong> carries less risk of<br />
causing pigmentation,’ he says. ‘We aim to achieve a 60<br />
to 70 percent improvement in the appearance of wrinkling<br />
on the upper lip.’<br />
face<br />
Dr Nettle recommends taking certain lifestyle measures<br />
to help improve <strong>and</strong> maintain the results of anti-ageing<br />
procedures. ‘We advise all our patients to make sure<br />
they eat a healthy diet <strong>and</strong> exercise to maintain their<br />
results,’ he says. ‘Some patients may use anti-wrinkle<br />
injections, laser <strong>and</strong> dermal fillers following their rejuvenation<br />
surgery, <strong>and</strong> we also recommend an effective skincare<br />
regime, including Vitamins A <strong>and</strong> C to help maintain youthful<br />
skin.’ csbm<br />
anti ageing<br />
Case Study<br />
This patient underwent facelift surgery <strong>and</strong> upper <strong>and</strong> lower eyelid surgery with Dr Nettle. He used fat transfer to fill<br />
the nasolabial crease <strong>and</strong> add volume to the mid-face. A more defined <strong>and</strong> sculpted jaw line was created, as well as a<br />
soft <strong>and</strong> natural-looking volumisation of the cheeks, recreating the plump <strong>and</strong> soft contours of youth. Her eyes have<br />
lost that ‘tired’ look <strong>and</strong> she now looks more vibrant <strong>and</strong> significantly younger, while still retaining her individuality.<br />
1<br />
2<br />
BEFORE<br />
AFTER facial rejuvenation surgery by Dr Nettle<br />
BEFORE<br />
AFTER facial rejuvenation surgery by Dr Nettle<br />
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face<br />
Is it<br />
time for<br />
surgery?<br />
At a cERTAIN point, non-surgical<br />
methods may no longer do the<br />
job. sydney plastic surgeon<br />
Dr Darryl Hodgkinson shares<br />
his approach to surgical<br />
rejuvENATION of the FAce.<br />
As we age, there comes a time when non-surgical<br />
treatments no longer provide a satisfactory result,<br />
<strong>and</strong> the necessity for surgical procedures becomes<br />
apparent to rejuvenate the face <strong>and</strong> neck.<br />
With improvements in non-invasive radiofrequency<br />
treatments such as the new INFINI treatment, combined<br />
with injectable fillers, resurfacing procedures <strong>and</strong> wrinkle<br />
treatments, this age has been pushed up to around 50 for<br />
most women <strong>and</strong> men. But after that time, the sagging of<br />
facial tissues <strong>and</strong> facial muscles, as well as bony resorption<br />
<strong>and</strong> fat maldistribution (either excess or degeneration)<br />
result in the inevitable situation where further non-surgical<br />
procedures alone become a waste of time <strong>and</strong> money.<br />
Typically with advancing age excess skin <strong>and</strong> fat bulges<br />
form around the eyes <strong>and</strong> brow, causing the eyebrows<br />
<strong>and</strong> often the forehead to sag <strong>and</strong> make us look tired or<br />
angry. The surgical solution can be eyelid surgery to the<br />
upper <strong>and</strong> lower eyelids (blepharoplasty) <strong>and</strong>, in cases of<br />
more profound forehead wrinkling <strong>and</strong> eyebrow sagging,<br />
an endoscopic brow lift.<br />
The sagging neck <strong>and</strong> lack of definition in the jaw,<br />
however, are perhaps the most common complaints as<br />
we age for both men <strong>and</strong> women. As we lose elasticity in<br />
our skin we develop jowls <strong>and</strong> deeper folds, especially in<br />
the nasolabial area around the mouth. I have had patients<br />
describe this to me as the ‘chipmunk’ or ‘hang dog’ look.<br />
To surgically correct this, there is no single solution <strong>and</strong> the<br />
surgery must be customised to address the patient’s specific<br />
ageing so as not to create a tight, plastic <strong>and</strong> ‘operated on’<br />
look. A variety of face <strong>and</strong> neck lifting techniques – from full<br />
SMAS facelifting, mid-face lifting, mini or minimally invasive<br />
facelifting – all can be employed. What is critical is not to<br />
forget the neck <strong>and</strong> surrounding areas, which I refer to as<br />
Pan Facial Rejuvenation (PFR).<br />
Pan Facial Rejuvenation, which addresses all areas of<br />
the ageing face <strong>and</strong> neck simultaneously, gives dramatic<br />
but most importantly natural-looking results. Every aesthetic<br />
unit of the face – the brow, the eyes, the mid <strong>and</strong> lower<br />
face, the neck <strong>and</strong> the skin – is addressed <strong>and</strong> the clock set<br />
back on all of them to reveal a more youthful version of the<br />
patient that still looks like them. In fact, I encourage patients<br />
to bring in pictures of themselves from a much younger age<br />
when they felt more confident to assess the various areas of<br />
their appearance which they feel have changed.<br />
Patients benefit psychologically, gaining not only an<br />
improvement in their appearance but also in their selfimage.<br />
The results speak for themselves <strong>and</strong> you can<br />
imagine that extra confidence <strong>and</strong> quality of life that occurs<br />
from a patient’s improved perception of themselves.<br />
Pan Facial Rejuvenation is not a minimal procedure;<br />
it requires careful consultation with the patient <strong>and</strong> their<br />
supporters, <strong>and</strong> one to two weeks of healing prior to reentering<br />
public life. Our philosophy is to only provide<br />
treatments <strong>and</strong> procedures that get the patient a result.<br />
We do not use non-surgical fillers <strong>and</strong> radiofrequency on<br />
patients who will derive little or no benefit. In other words,<br />
they need the ‘real thing’, namely a surgical result which<br />
only Pan Facial Rejuvenation can achieve. csbm<br />
78 www.cosbeauty.com.au
face<br />
anti ageing<br />
After facelift, neck lift <strong>and</strong> blepharoplasty by Dr Hodgkinson<br />
After facelift, neck lift <strong>and</strong> blepharoplasty by Dr Hodgkinson<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 79
face<br />
<strong>Beauty</strong><br />
through<br />
the ages<br />
Sydney plastic surgeon Dr Steven Liew<br />
says a pesonalised beauty treATMent program yields<br />
speCTACular resuLTS AT any age. AimÉe SuRTenich repoRTS.<br />
Sydney plastic surgeon Dr Steven Liew believes the<br />
new generation of advanced cosmetic non-surgical<br />
treatments are delivering such remarkable results<br />
that in the future most patients, if properly treated, will no<br />
longer require major facial cosmetic surgery. Instead, regular<br />
maintenance with non-surgical treatments will become the<br />
norm – combined with more minor surgical procedures<br />
where required.<br />
A global leader in the development of advanced cosmetic<br />
facial treatments, Dr Liew has developed the <strong>Beauty</strong> Through<br />
The Ages Program, a personalised beauty treatment plan that<br />
helps guide patients through each decade with the best <strong>and</strong><br />
latest procedures available at Dr Liew’s Shape Clinic.<br />
‘The new treatments deliver such natural-looking results<br />
that patients can be a more beautiful version of themselves<br />
at every age,’ says Dr Liew. ‘Regular non-surgical procedures<br />
to beautify the face <strong>and</strong> skin is far more effective than waiting<br />
until invasive surgery is needed to repair sagging jowls <strong>and</strong><br />
skin folds. But for patients with significant skin looseness of<br />
the eyelid, lower face <strong>and</strong> neck, then eye, face <strong>and</strong> neck lift<br />
surgery still <strong>and</strong> always will be the gold st<strong>and</strong>ard.’<br />
Treatment plans under the <strong>Beauty</strong> Through The Ages<br />
Program ensure a more targeted, effective approach for every<br />
age, including:<br />
Your 20s<br />
Most cosmetic treatments for people in their 20s are nonsurgical<br />
(wrinkle relaxers such as Botox, <strong>and</strong> fillers) <strong>and</strong> are<br />
aimed at beautifying the face.<br />
Apart from basic treatments such as lip enhancement,<br />
Shape Clinic also offers Dr Liew’s advanced, pioneering<br />
techniques – including his total facial reshaping procedure,<br />
a ‘glamorising’ treatment which can transform the ‘girl next<br />
door’ to a stunning beauty.<br />
Surgically, breast augmentation surgery is the most popular<br />
at this age group, says Dr Liew.<br />
Your 30s<br />
This is the decade when we start to notice the first signs of<br />
facial ageing: most commonly lines <strong>and</strong> wrinkles on our brow<br />
<strong>and</strong> mouth.<br />
‘Botox <strong>and</strong> other injectables to reduce frown <strong>and</strong> laugh<br />
lines <strong>and</strong> fillers to resculpture the cheek area will both<br />
beautify the face <strong>and</strong> maintain youthful radiance,’ says<br />
Dr Liew.<br />
Your 40s, 50s <strong>and</strong> Beyond<br />
At this age we are increasingly likely to combine non-surgical<br />
treatments with surgery.<br />
‘Face <strong>and</strong> neck lifts to reduce jowls <strong>and</strong> sagging neck skin<br />
are in high dem<strong>and</strong>, while eyelid surgery <strong>and</strong> brow lifts are also<br />
popular,’ says Dr Liew.<br />
‘Dermal fillers in this age group continue to be very effective<br />
in creating a natural-looking <strong>and</strong> more beautiful appearance,<br />
replacing lost volume to deflated cheeks, thinning lips <strong>and</strong><br />
softening the “marionette” lines around the mouth,’ Dr Liew<br />
concludes. csbm<br />
80 www.cosbeauty.com.au
face<br />
Non surgical 20s to 30s<br />
1<br />
BEFORE<br />
A beautifully tailored, sensuous <strong>and</strong> juicy lip with Juvederm filler<br />
AFTER lip enhancement with dermal filler by Dr Liew<br />
2<br />
BEFORE<br />
Non-surgical lower eyelift with dermal filler to remove the tired dark circles<br />
AFTER non-surgical enhancement by Dr Liew<br />
3<br />
BEFORE<br />
AFTER non-surgical enhancement by Dr Liew<br />
Non-surgical eyebrow <strong>and</strong> eye lift with Botox to lift the eyebrows <strong>and</strong> reduce heaviness of the upper eyelid to create<br />
brighter, more attractive eyes<br />
4<br />
BEFORE<br />
AFTER non-surgical enhancement by Dr Liew<br />
Total facial beautification to narrow <strong>and</strong> define the jawline with Botox <strong>and</strong> to define the cheek definition with dermal filler<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 81
face<br />
<strong>Beauty</strong> Through The Ages Program 20s to 30s<br />
1<br />
BEFORE<br />
AFTER surgical upper eyelift procedure (in-office) by<br />
Dr Liew<br />
2<br />
BEFORE<br />
AFTER Asian ‘double eyelid’ surgery (in-office) by<br />
Dr Liew<br />
3<br />
BEFORE<br />
AFTER surgical lower eyelift procedure (lower eyebags<br />
removed) by Dr Liew<br />
4<br />
BEFORE<br />
AFTER keyhole browlift <strong>and</strong> surgical fat removal of<br />
lower eyelids by Dr Liew<br />
82 www.cosbeauty.com.au
face<br />
1<br />
Non Surgical<br />
40s, 50s, 60s<br />
BEFORE<br />
AFTER non-surgical enhancement by Dr Liew<br />
Sunken <strong>and</strong> hollow cheeks created a sad <strong>and</strong> tired look. Dermal fillers were used to<br />
transform her facial contour to a beautiful <strong>and</strong> healthy appearance<br />
2<br />
BEFORE<br />
AFTER facial rejuvenation by Dr Liew<br />
Total facial rejuvenation creating a refreshed <strong>and</strong> aesthetically pleasing appearance<br />
3<br />
BEFORE<br />
AFTER facial rejuvenation by Dr Liew<br />
Total facial beautification with strategic use of laser for skin capillaries, Botox <strong>and</strong><br />
dermal fillers<br />
4<br />
BEFORE<br />
AFTER facial rejuvenation by Dr Liew<br />
Total facial beautification with strategic use of dermal fillers, transforming the facial<br />
structures <strong>and</strong> profile of the eyebrow, eyelid, nose, cheek <strong>and</strong> chin<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 83
face<br />
<strong>Beauty</strong> Through The Ages Program<br />
Looking The Best at Any Stage of Your Life<br />
BEFORE<br />
AFTER facial rejvenation by Dr Liew<br />
BEFORE<br />
AFTER facial rejvenation by Dr Liew<br />
<strong>Beauty</strong> Treatment Plan (combining surgery <strong>and</strong> non-surgical procedures: This patient underwent upper <strong>and</strong> lower eyelift surgery <strong>and</strong> face <strong>and</strong><br />
necklift surgery at the age of 49 by Dr Liew. At age 60 she has maintained her beautiful radiance , looking the best for her age by simple skin<br />
care, <strong>and</strong> strategically planned non-surgical treatments by Dr Liew.<br />
84 www.cosbeauty.com.au
face<br />
anti ageing<br />
from within<br />
Selphyl PRP, from Device Technologies, uses a fibrin matrix to return<br />
volume <strong>and</strong> vibrancy to the skin in non-surgical rejuvenation.<br />
Caitlin Bishop repoRTS.<br />
Since its introduction to the cosmetic arena, Platelet<br />
Rich Plasma (PRP) has transformed the options in<br />
non-surgical facial rejuvenation. By using the body’s<br />
own products to kick-start natural, regenerative processes,<br />
PRP affords holistic, effective <strong>and</strong> long-lasting results in<br />
cosmetic enhancement.<br />
Selphyl PRP, distributed in Australia by Device<br />
Technologies, is a system used by doctors <strong>and</strong> practitioners<br />
to harness a patient’s blood <strong>and</strong> prepare it for reinjection<br />
into the treatment site. Once injected, the platelets trigger<br />
the activity of growth factors in the skin <strong>and</strong> stimulate the<br />
production of collagen <strong>and</strong> keratin in the dermis.<br />
Patients look more youthful,<br />
with better skin tone, but<br />
without looking like they’ve<br />
had anything “done”<br />
‘I like Selphyl because, as time goes on, the results<br />
continue to improve,’ explains Melbourne cosmetic<br />
physician, Dr Mirjana Janjic. ‘This is very unique – with other<br />
treatments, the results are best directly after treatment<br />
<strong>and</strong> deteriorate from there. With PRP you continue to see<br />
results as time goes by.’<br />
Unlike some other PRP systems, which concentrate the<br />
blood plasma <strong>and</strong> keep the consistency as it is, Selphyl<br />
prepares this concentrated plasma as a ‘fibrin matrix’<br />
– referred to as PRFM. The fibrin matrix affords greater<br />
volume at the injection site – for additional anti-ageing<br />
benefit – <strong>and</strong> improves the platelet activation of growth<br />
factors in the skin.<br />
‘I believe the fibrin matrix is the best way to achieve<br />
optimum results in PRP rejuvenation,’ says Dr Janjic. ‘The<br />
system itself is easy to use – it’s clean <strong>and</strong> precise for<br />
predictable <strong>and</strong> effective results.’<br />
Treatment with Selphyl is relatively easy; it takes between<br />
30 <strong>and</strong> 45 minutes per treatment <strong>and</strong> there’s no risk of<br />
allergic or adverse reactions, given it’s the patient’s own<br />
tissue involved in the procedure.<br />
Dr Janjic commonly uses PRP therapy to improve the<br />
appearance of dark circles under the eyes <strong>and</strong> reduce<br />
wrinkles around the lips. Notably, she has also achieved<br />
successful results in using PRP to enhance skin quality on<br />
the backs of h<strong>and</strong>s.<br />
‘Selphyl is excellent for treating dark circles under the<br />
eyes <strong>and</strong> returning natural-looking volume to the skin,’ Dr<br />
Janjic explains. ‘It can be used for general rejuvenation, as<br />
it improves the texture, tone <strong>and</strong> feel of skin.’<br />
For optimum results, Dr Janjic commonly recommends<br />
three Selphyl treatments, four to six weeks apart. Treatment<br />
can be combined with micro-needling or hyaluronic acid<br />
filler, for more holistic, universal results.<br />
‘Selphyl PRP can achieve natural-looking, refreshed<br />
results in facial rejuvenation,’ Dr Janjic explains. ‘Patients<br />
look more youthful, with better skin tone, but they don’t<br />
look as if they’ve had anything “done”.’ csbm<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 85
face<br />
<strong>Beauty</strong><br />
from<br />
within<br />
Ellansé from Device Technologies is an innovative dermal filler<br />
that restores lost volume <strong>and</strong> rejuvenates the skin from within.<br />
Caitlin Bishop reports.<br />
The full cheeks <strong>and</strong> plump facial contours associated<br />
with youthfulness are often lost in the facial ageing<br />
process. Dermal fillers <strong>and</strong> fat transfer procedures<br />
can be effective in restoring volume <strong>and</strong> countering this<br />
three-dimensional process, returning youthfulness <strong>and</strong><br />
vitality to the ageing face.<br />
Ellansé, from Device Technologies, is a unique <strong>and</strong><br />
innovative filler with dual benefits: it reduces the appearance<br />
of facial wrinkles <strong>and</strong> folds, while also stimulating the<br />
production of collagen in the dermis, offering long-lasting<br />
<strong>and</strong> natural-looking rejuvenation.<br />
Queensl<strong>and</strong> cosmetic physician Dr Christopher Leat has<br />
been using Ellansé for more than a year <strong>and</strong> believes it is a<br />
viable option in achieving noticeable <strong>and</strong> attractive results<br />
in facial rejuvenation.<br />
‘Ellansé has the benefit of stimulating the skin <strong>and</strong><br />
subcutaneous tissues to produce more natural collagen.<br />
This gives, I believe, a longer lasting <strong>and</strong> sometimes more<br />
natural result,’ Dr Leat explains. ‘Ellansé can last one to<br />
four years, so patients don’t need as many treatments to<br />
maintain the benefit. The results also build gradually over a<br />
period of several months, so there is no dramatic sudden<br />
change in appearance.’<br />
Dr Leat uses Ellansé to address several characteristics<br />
of ageing in his patients. Importantly, patients can choose<br />
from one of four different Ellansé formulas, depending<br />
on their individual concerns <strong>and</strong> how long they’d like the<br />
results to last.<br />
‘We use Ellansé almost anywhere on the face where<br />
volume restoration is needed – namely, the cheeks, jaw<br />
86 www.cosbeauty.com.au
line, temples, <strong>and</strong> nasolabial <strong>and</strong> marionette regions,’ Dr<br />
Leat says. ‘Deciding upon the formula largely depends<br />
on what longevity the patient is looking for. Ellansé has<br />
four formulations that last one, two, three <strong>and</strong> four years,<br />
respectively. However, I find the results usually exceed<br />
these time frames.’<br />
We can use Ellansé almost<br />
anywhere on the face where<br />
volume restoration is needed<br />
The filler effect of Ellansé is immediately noticeable –<br />
significantly reducing the appearance of wrinkles <strong>and</strong> folds<br />
by restoring the underlying volume – <strong>and</strong> over time this<br />
volume restoration is compounded with the stimulation of<br />
collagen in the skin’s dermis.<br />
By replenishing the lost collagen, Dr Leat explains<br />
Ellansé can help reverse the signs of ageing. ‘I describe<br />
collagen as the scaffolding of the skin,’ he says. ‘Collagen<br />
gives much of the strength <strong>and</strong> integrity to the skin, <strong>and</strong> it<br />
depletes as we age. It is also diminished by other factors<br />
such as sun damage, which is why Australians tend to age<br />
faster than other nationalities.<br />
‘Ellansé consists of microscopic spheres of a compound<br />
called polycaprolactone,’ he continues. ‘Polycaprolactone<br />
has been used in medicine (for example, in orthopaedics<br />
<strong>and</strong> in suture materials) for many decades <strong>and</strong> has a<br />
face<br />
proven safety record. The tiny spheres of polycaprolactone<br />
become coated with cells <strong>and</strong> a scaffolding of new collagen<br />
is formed in the skin.’<br />
Treatment with Ellansé is relatively simple <strong>and</strong> incurs<br />
minimal down time. The procedure itself takes approximately<br />
30 minutes <strong>and</strong> Dr Leat commonly uses local anaesthetic<br />
to counter any discomfort during injection.<br />
‘We often use anaesthetic creams, <strong>and</strong> I use a little local<br />
anaesthetic with the Ellansé,’ Dr Leat explains. ‘There is<br />
not usually any noticeable swelling following treatment, <strong>and</strong><br />
bruising is infrequent but can occur depending on the area<br />
being treated.’<br />
Notably, Ellansé can be used both as a st<strong>and</strong>alone<br />
treatment <strong>and</strong> in conjunction with other anti-ageing<br />
therapies. ‘We often combine Ellansé with other treatments<br />
to improve skin texture <strong>and</strong> colour, <strong>and</strong> also with botulinum<br />
toxin treatments for lines <strong>and</strong> wrinkles,’ Dr Leat says. ‘I<br />
have also been treating some patients with a combination<br />
of Ellansé <strong>and</strong> platelet rich plasma (PRP) therapy.’<br />
In filling facial volume <strong>and</strong> harnessing the body’s natural<br />
processes to promote collagen production, Ellansé is<br />
both an anti-ageing <strong>and</strong> skin rejuvenation treatment,<br />
offering long-lasting <strong>and</strong> natural-looking results in volume<br />
replacement <strong>and</strong> collagen induction.<br />
‘Essentially, we can use Ellansé for anyone who would<br />
benefit from a more traditional volumising filler. Our<br />
typical Ellansé patients are women aged 40 plus, but we<br />
also treat many men <strong>and</strong> younger patients looking for facial<br />
rejuvenation,’ Dr Leat concludes. cbsm<br />
anti ageing<br />
BEFORE<br />
Six months AFTER Ellansé <strong>and</strong> Platelet Rich Plasma treatment by Dr Leat<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 87
anti-ageing<br />
The future is here<br />
Regen PRP is at the forefront of using platelet rich plasma in a<br />
variety of cosmetic <strong>and</strong> medical settings. Caitlin Bishop rePORTS.<br />
Platelet Rich Plasma (PRP) therapy is a regenerative<br />
<strong>and</strong> rejuvenating procedure with seemingly endless<br />
applications. From anti-ageing concerns to treating<br />
Sjorgren’s syndrome, PRP can be used to kick-start the<br />
body’s cellular processes, stimulate collagen production at<br />
the treatment site <strong>and</strong> invigorate the area with stem cells<br />
<strong>and</strong> growth factors.<br />
Regen PRP signifies the cutting-edge in PRP technology<br />
<strong>and</strong> is fast becoming the must-have treatment in both the<br />
cosmetic <strong>and</strong> medical arena. The procedure harnesses the<br />
patient’s own resources <strong>and</strong> natural healing mechanisms<br />
to facilitate change. It involves extracting a sample of the<br />
patient’s blood, centrifuging this sample to concentrate the<br />
platelets, <strong>and</strong> reinjecting the concentrated solution into the<br />
treatment area.<br />
One patient, Lisa Schmelzkopf, who has worked in<br />
the skincare industry for more than 15 years, explains<br />
PRP can be effective in boosting the action of other skin<br />
88 www.cosbeauty.com.au
treatments for a holistic <strong>and</strong> longer-lasting result. ‘I’ve had<br />
PRP three times now, <strong>and</strong> find the results fantastic,’ says<br />
Schmelzkopf. ‘It’s a way to give your skin a second chance<br />
<strong>and</strong> accelerate the results of other treatments or skincare<br />
regimes. My skin tone has evened out, <strong>and</strong> PRP has given<br />
me a healthier, plumper <strong>and</strong> firmer complexion.’<br />
It’s a way to give your skin a<br />
second chance; PRP has given<br />
me a healthier, plumper <strong>and</strong><br />
firmer complexion<br />
PRP has been used in medical settings for several<br />
decades – for example in sports medicine by assisting<br />
in healing of tendons, muscle tears <strong>and</strong> joint injury. In the<br />
body, the blood platelets release proteins called growth<br />
factors, which communicate with the body to trigger that<br />
natural healing process.<br />
Companies such as Regen Lab have brought this<br />
treatment into the world of cosmetic enhancement,<br />
supplying cosmetic surgeons <strong>and</strong> practitioners with the<br />
devices they need to extract, concentrate <strong>and</strong> reinject<br />
platelets in their own clinic.<br />
Dr May Marr, a cosmetic physician in northern NSW,<br />
uses PRP as an anti-ageing therapy. One of her patients,<br />
Margardia Belleza, has recently undergone a series of<br />
treatments with Regen PRP. ‘I just felt my skin had lost<br />
its glow; it felt tired, dull <strong>and</strong> without its youthful elasticity,’<br />
Belleza explains. ‘I was attracted to PRP because I do<br />
believe the body can repair itself; PRP just gives it a wake<br />
up call. Since treatment, I’ve had people stopping me <strong>and</strong><br />
commenting that I look fresh <strong>and</strong> more youthful – I really<br />
think it has made a difference.’<br />
Belleza has received three PRP treatments; the first two<br />
were performed one month apart <strong>and</strong> the third, one year<br />
later. She often combines PRP with small amounts of antiwrinkle<br />
injections, to improve results <strong>and</strong> achieve a more<br />
holistic rejuvenation.<br />
‘I don’t want to look frozen, <strong>and</strong> PRP returns that healthy,<br />
youthful glow to my skin via a very natural process,’ she<br />
says. ‘The treatments themselves were easy to tolerate <strong>and</strong><br />
did not cause much downtime. I usually have some swelling<br />
for around 24 hours following injection, <strong>and</strong> I experienced<br />
mild bruising around the mouth on one occasion.’<br />
Gynaecology<br />
Gynaecologist Dr Fariba Willison in Adelaide is trail blazing<br />
the use of PRP in a gynaecological setting. She was the<br />
first to pioneer treatment of PRP for vaginal atrophy <strong>and</strong><br />
anti-ageing<br />
women with breast cancer who have dry vagina <strong>and</strong> cannot<br />
use HRT.<br />
One of her patients underwent PRP to treat a pervasive,<br />
aggressive <strong>and</strong> uncomfortable condition, which caused great<br />
irritation in her vagina. ‘I had visited several gynaecologists<br />
but no one could pin-point the exact cause of my problem,<br />
nor could they suggest a solution,’ this patient describes.<br />
‘It was so distressing; it affected my sexual health, I was<br />
in constant pain, it hurt to urinate, I couldn’t wear certain<br />
clothes <strong>and</strong>, psychologically, I was traumatised.’<br />
Other doctors had prescribed anti-depressants <strong>and</strong><br />
therapy, but this patient was determined to address the<br />
physical cause of her trauma. After a consultation with<br />
Dr Willison, she went ahead with a series of three PRP<br />
treatments, combined with laser therapy to bolster results.<br />
‘After the first treatment I could wear proper clothes<br />
again,’ she says. ‘Each time I received treatment it<br />
continued to improve. I felt I could st<strong>and</strong> up tall again; I felt<br />
in control. PRP treatment really gave me my self back – I<br />
want women to know there are options out there. I was told<br />
I had to live with my condition, but PRP has given me<br />
hope.’ csbm<br />
Sjorgren’s syndrome<br />
In an unusual utilisation of PRP treatment one<br />
patient, Bridgette Bradley, has used PRP in the<br />
form of eye drops to manage the symptoms of<br />
Sjorgren’s syndrome – a condition that results in<br />
dryness of the mouth <strong>and</strong> eyes. ‘One of the most<br />
debilitating side effects of Sjorgren’s syndrome is<br />
the lack of eye tears,’ she says. ‘After being treated<br />
by Dr Willison using PRP drops, I went three days<br />
without needing my regular eye drops. Usually, I<br />
have to apply my eye drops 10 to 20 times a day.’<br />
Though the short-term results were clearly<br />
significant, there was no long-term change in<br />
Bradley’s symptoms following PRP treatment.<br />
She is looking forward to future treatments – <strong>and</strong><br />
hopefully take-home eye drops at some point –<br />
<strong>and</strong> has arranged to inject PRP in her inner cheek<br />
at the next treatment in a bid to stimulate her<br />
salivary gl<strong>and</strong>s.<br />
This case, alongside many others, signifies the<br />
extensive opportunities for using PRP in several<br />
cosmetic, regenerative <strong>and</strong> medical settings.<br />
Regen PRP can enhance the complexion, reverse<br />
the signs of ageing <strong>and</strong> assist in treating certain<br />
conditions. With such diverse possibilities, the ways<br />
in which PRP can make a difference in patients’<br />
lives will continue to emerge in the years to come.<br />
anti ageing<br />
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face<br />
A<br />
modern<br />
approach<br />
to<br />
facial<br />
rejuvenation<br />
Dr John Flynn from<br />
Queensl<strong>and</strong> combines surgical<br />
<strong>and</strong> non-surgical techniques<br />
to creATe subtle yet beautiful<br />
anti-ageing FACIAl results.<br />
AimÉe Surtenich reports.<br />
Modern facial enhancement is all about reversing the<br />
signs of ageing while enhancing <strong>and</strong> preserving a<br />
person’s individual look, says Dr John Flynn from<br />
the Gold Coast in Queensl<strong>and</strong>.<br />
‘There is a new paradigm for facial rejuvenation which<br />
focuses on a combination of conservative surgical <strong>and</strong><br />
minimally invasive techniques to target ageing concerns in<br />
a more subtle, incremental way,’ he says. By embracing<br />
this new way of thinking, we can create dramatic yet<br />
natural-looking results.’<br />
Dr Flynn says the surgery-focused facelifts of the past<br />
are increasingly being replaced by a different approach:<br />
more conservative surgical techniques with minimally<br />
invasive facial rejuvenation procedures.<br />
‘The modern facelift is very different from previous times,’<br />
he explains. ‘It relies far less on extensive surgery <strong>and</strong> more<br />
on judicious alterations combining laser resurfacing, dermal<br />
fillers <strong>and</strong> other minimally invasive techniques so that what<br />
is essentially known as a “facelift” is no longer a purely<br />
surgical experience.’<br />
Combining a selection of different modalities to achieve a<br />
result specific to the individual patient is the key to modern<br />
facial rejuvenation. ‘A single procedure is rarely the answer<br />
to facial ageing,’ Dr Flynn explains. ‘I believe it’s better to<br />
focus on what the actual problem is that needs addressing<br />
<strong>and</strong>, in most cases, a combination of procedures is likely<br />
the best route to success.’<br />
There is a new paradigm for<br />
facial rejuvenation which focuses<br />
on a combination of more<br />
conservative techniques<br />
‘Ageing affects us all in varying degrees,’ he continues.<br />
‘Different people will therefore benefit from different<br />
combinations <strong>and</strong> degrees of treatments, depending on<br />
their unique concerns.’<br />
90 www.cosbeauty.com.au
Depending on these concerns, conservative surgery<br />
combined with minimally invasive options such as laser<br />
resurfacing, thread lifting, dermal fillers, muscle relaxants<br />
<strong>and</strong> an active skincare regimen can produce superior,<br />
long-lasting results.<br />
Aesthetically speaking, Dr Flynn says the eyes are the<br />
most expressive <strong>and</strong> therefore the most noticed of the<br />
facial features, which makes them a central feature in<br />
facial rejuvenation. ‘There is the concept of emotionality<br />
associated with the eyes, reflected in the age-old saying,<br />
“the eyes are the windows to the soul”,’ he says. ‘As we<br />
get older, noticeable ageing effects occur in <strong>and</strong> around<br />
the eyes, which usually consist of drooping upper eyelids<br />
<strong>and</strong> the descent of the eyebrows. These effects contribute<br />
to a look of tiredness or ill health <strong>and</strong> can be improved with<br />
modern facial rejuvenation techniques.’<br />
Dr Flynn assesses how these changes individually affect<br />
each patient’s eyes by looking at how the fatty tissues bulge<br />
<strong>and</strong> the skin sags, as well as how the position of the brow<br />
affects the eyes. ‘Addressing all these elements allows me<br />
to determine which combination is right for the patient. For<br />
example, they might require a laser tightening treatment to<br />
tighten <strong>and</strong> “lift” the skin, <strong>and</strong> dermal fillers to reshape <strong>and</strong><br />
recontour the eye area,’ he explains.<br />
But one of the most influential<br />
1<br />
aspects of rejuvenating the face is the<br />
quality <strong>and</strong> texture of the skin. ‘The<br />
skin is the fabric that covers the entire<br />
face, so when looking to perform a<br />
combination of procedures on the face<br />
we have to look at how to correct the<br />
quality of the fabric as well,’ explains Dr<br />
Flynn. ‘This is where laser resurfacing<br />
can be extremely effective. Even if a<br />
patient doesn’t necessarily require a lift<br />
or tightening, most people who live in<br />
Australia’s harsh climate could benefit<br />
from laser rejuvenation to renew skin<br />
texture <strong>and</strong> tone.’<br />
BEFORE<br />
When looking to improve the<br />
2<br />
appearance of a patient’s face, Dr<br />
Flynn will often use stem cell-enriched<br />
fat transfer alongside fractionated laser.<br />
‘Stem cells are attracted to areas in<br />
need of repair,’ he explains. ‘If we use<br />
fractionated laser technology to create<br />
microscopic injuries in the skin, <strong>and</strong><br />
then inject stem cells, the stem cells<br />
act to enhance the repair process <strong>and</strong>,<br />
in my experience, achieve even better<br />
results for the patient then when using<br />
laser alone.’<br />
‘While the field of regenerative<br />
medicine <strong>and</strong> techniques using the<br />
BEFORE<br />
face<br />
patient’s own stem cells is in its developmental stage,<br />
we already have some very effective applications,’ he<br />
continues. One of these applications is stem cell-enriched<br />
fat transfer, which he often uses to augment areas of the<br />
face that have lost volume with age.<br />
Dr Flynn has access to the latest technology <strong>and</strong><br />
research from Monash Immunology <strong>and</strong> Stem Cell<br />
Laboratories <strong>and</strong> has been pioneering stem cells in<br />
aesthetic medicine for some time. ‘Adult stem cells can<br />
be differentiated into different cell types but their main<br />
function is in repair of tissues,’ he explains. ‘While stem<br />
cells hold the potential to treat a wide range of diseases,<br />
they are also being used in cosmetic medicine. In this<br />
way, we can use stem cells to enhance facial tissue <strong>and</strong><br />
facial skin in conjunction with fat transfer, as well as the<br />
subtle augmentation of the breasts <strong>and</strong> buttocks, <strong>and</strong> to<br />
rejuvenate the h<strong>and</strong>s.’<br />
No two people are the same <strong>and</strong> something as multifaceted<br />
as ageing dem<strong>and</strong>s a sophisticated approach.<br />
‘Fortunately, today we’re blessed with a diverse array of<br />
treatments – from minimally invasive to surgical procedures<br />
– which can be combined in order to achieve the best<br />
possible anti-ageing results,’ Dr Flynn concludes. csbm<br />
AFTER facelift <strong>and</strong> laser resurfacing by Dr Flynn<br />
AFTER thread lifts by Dr Flynn<br />
anti ageing<br />
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face<br />
Mini-facelifts<br />
without surgery<br />
Sydney cosmetic physician Dr Buddy Beaini says the Astarte thread<br />
lift is a major advancement in non-surgical facial enhancement.<br />
AimÉe Surtench reports.<br />
There’s been a move towards treating the signs of<br />
ageing with a series of non-surgical treatments<br />
instead of more aggressive surgical options. A thread<br />
lift fits this bill perfectly, offering a minimally invasive way to<br />
lift sagging features <strong>and</strong> create a fresher, more contoured<br />
<strong>and</strong> youthful appearance.<br />
With the ever-increasing aesthetic advancements,<br />
Sydney cosmetic physician Dr Buddy Beaini from MD<br />
Cosmedical Solutions Clinics says the key to outst<strong>and</strong>ing<br />
results (where you look years younger) is tailoring a skin<br />
treatment program for each individual patient.<br />
‘A major recent advancement is the development of<br />
the Astarte Absorbable Threads,’ Dr Beaini explains. ‘The<br />
Astarte Thread Lift bridges the gap between the “softer”<br />
beauty salon type of anti-ageing treatments <strong>and</strong> the radical<br />
aggressive surgical facelifts.’<br />
He says the concern with ‘softer’ beauty salon treatments<br />
is that they often don’t achieve the patient’s expectations<br />
because the results may be minimal. Conversely, the<br />
concern with surgical facelifts is that results may not look<br />
natural, there may be an overcorrection, there are risks of<br />
scarring, infection, nerve paralysis, lopsidedness, <strong>and</strong> there<br />
is a long downtime.<br />
‘Patients are now opting for real results, but without the<br />
risks <strong>and</strong> downtime that are involved with radical surgery.<br />
Astarte Thread Lifts offer a non-surgical solution for face<br />
lifting – excellent results with no incisions, no scars <strong>and</strong><br />
minimal downtime,’ says Dr Beaini.<br />
Astarte Threads have been available in Australia since<br />
2012, <strong>and</strong> have been successfully used in hundreds of<br />
thread lift procedures. MD Cosmedical Solutions has been<br />
using the Astarte Threads for over 18 months <strong>and</strong> Dr Beaini<br />
has been seeing significant results. ‘Our procedure is tailored<br />
to each individual <strong>and</strong> their face lifting <strong>and</strong> rejuvenation<br />
What can Astarte Threads treat?<br />
• Face lifting / neck lifting / skin tightening<br />
• reposition sagging cheeks<br />
• Brow lifting<br />
• marionette lines correction<br />
• jowling correction<br />
• lip lines reduction <strong>and</strong> lip shaping<br />
• adjusting facial <strong>and</strong> brow asymmetry<br />
92 www.cosbeauty.com.au
equirements,’ he says. ‘The unique Astarte Thread<br />
Lift technique is adaptable, enabling me to customise<br />
treatment to the patient’s needs. This procedure has been<br />
very well received, with excellent patient satisfaction since<br />
its implementation within our clinics.’<br />
According to Dr Beaini, these new revitalising threads<br />
are very different to the older threads that were used in the<br />
past. The new threads (unlike the conventional smooth<br />
threads) have small soft barbs (also known as cogs) that<br />
resemble a fishbone. When inserted just under the skin the<br />
cogs cling to the facial soft tissue, gently lifting the tissue<br />
<strong>and</strong> thereby providing a new support scaffolding that lifts<br />
<strong>and</strong> holds the tissue in place. These new threads rebuild<br />
the support structure of your skin from within.<br />
The threads dissolve within nine to 12 months, while<br />
the long-term benefits of the thread lift will typically last for<br />
three to five years. ‘Over a period of nine to 12 months<br />
the Astarte Threads dissolve – but before dissolving<br />
they produce fibrosis that in turn creates a new support<br />
scaffolding of collagen for the skin,’ Dr Beaini explains. ‘This<br />
new scaffolding can lift <strong>and</strong> support the thread lift for many<br />
years to come. In addition to the lift effect, the thread lift<br />
creates new skin firmness that assists with improved skin<br />
colour, skin tone <strong>and</strong> texture.’<br />
The procedure itself takes between 30 to 90 minutes,<br />
<strong>and</strong> the results can last between three to five years in most<br />
individuals. Extra, or ‘touch-up’, threads can easily be<br />
added at any time within or after this period.<br />
‘The Astarte Thread Lift preserves the natural contours<br />
of the face, so that the results are more subtle <strong>and</strong> natural<br />
looking,’ says Dr Beaini. ‘The results are achieved without<br />
hospitalisation, without scarring <strong>and</strong> with a minimum of<br />
downtime. In fact, you can return home within a few hours<br />
<strong>and</strong> resume normal activities after a few days. The major<br />
advantage of absorbable threads is that they will not impact<br />
on any future procedures (should you wish to have further<br />
thread lifts or other lifts in years to come).’<br />
Generally speaking, the best c<strong>and</strong>idates for this<br />
procedure are women <strong>and</strong> men in their 30s to 70s who<br />
don’t want, don’t need, or are unable to have a traditional<br />
surgical facelift but long for a more youthful appearance.<br />
‘The procedure has a good safety profile, is effective,<br />
requires no general anaesthesia <strong>and</strong> has a short downtime<br />
of around three to five days,’ says Dr Beaini. ‘There are also<br />
no risks of surgical scars or facial nerve paralysis which<br />
may occur with traditional facelift surgery. And the cost<br />
effectiveness of a Thread Lift is obviously an advantage.’<br />
‘I believe Absorbable Astarte Threads are an excellent<br />
addition to the facial rejuvenation treatment repertoire. An<br />
Astarte Thread Lift gives natural uplifting <strong>and</strong> rejuvenation<br />
results which can be “topped-up” at any time, <strong>and</strong> which<br />
do not interfere with any future face treatments,’ Dr Beaini<br />
concludes. csbm<br />
BEFORE<br />
BEFORE<br />
BEFORE<br />
BEFORE<br />
AFTER Astarte Thread Lift by Dr Beaini<br />
AFTER Astarte Thread Lift by Dr Beaini<br />
AFTER Astarte Thread Lift by Dr Beaini<br />
AFTER Astarte Thread Lift by Dr Beaini<br />
face<br />
anti ageing<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 93
FEATURE<br />
face<br />
Facial Defi ning <strong>Surgery</strong><br />
FOR THE MAJORITY OF ETHNIC PATIENTS SEEKING COSMETIC SURGERY, IT’S<br />
ABOUT ENHANCING THEIR FEATURES RATHER THAN CHANGING THEIR IDENTITY,<br />
SAYS SYDNEY PLASTIC SURGEON DR DARRYL HODGKINSON.<br />
A<br />
recent SBS program that aired in December 2013<br />
examined the trend both internationally <strong>and</strong> in<br />
Australia of performing surgery to change ethnically<br />
defi ning features of the face, especially the eyelids <strong>and</strong><br />
the nose.<br />
From my practice in Australia, which spans all ethnic<br />
<strong>and</strong> racial groups, I do not believe people are wanting to<br />
change their race but rather to appear more multicultural<br />
by modifying features which they believe to be potentially<br />
limiting or defi ning.<br />
With increased globalisation,<br />
we are seeing new beauty trends<br />
develop in many cultural groups<br />
With the media sharing images of perceived beauty<br />
from around the world <strong>and</strong> with increased globalisation of<br />
business <strong>and</strong> communications, we are seeing new beauty<br />
trends develop in many cultural groups – not just in the face<br />
but in body shape as well.<br />
Many cultures that used to view a few extra kilos as<br />
signs of health <strong>and</strong> prosperity now have men <strong>and</strong> women<br />
queuing up in gyms to shed the same weight coveted<br />
by their parents or gr<strong>and</strong>parents. However, changes to<br />
ideals of facial beauty in an ethnic group, tend to be more<br />
challenged as ‘race changing’.<br />
Korea is a prime example of changing ideals. It is<br />
estimated that 20 percent of women in Seoul have had<br />
facial defi ning surgery, including nasal augmentation,<br />
double eyelid surgery <strong>and</strong> bone contouring of the lower jaw<br />
to make the face less ‘square’.<br />
This ‘baby face’ look is very popular with young Korean<br />
women <strong>and</strong> almost gives a ‘rubber stamp’ appearance.<br />
The aforementioned television show noted, however,<br />
that this change to the ‘baby doll’ face has become<br />
the new benchmark of beauty in South Korea <strong>and</strong> is so<br />
ACSM DEFINITIVE GUIDE NON-SURGICAL FACIAL REJUVENATION<br />
94 www.cosbeauty.com.au
widely accepted that it can actually improve employment<br />
opportunities for these young women.<br />
Iran, on the other h<strong>and</strong>, has become the rhinoplasty<br />
capital of the world, with the procedure being seven times<br />
more common than in the United States. This demonstrates<br />
the pressure there is in a society not necessarily to want to<br />
change one’s race but to conform to an internationalised<br />
norm or perceived ideal of beauty.<br />
In my Sydney practice, there is an ever-increasing<br />
percentage of Asian <strong>and</strong> Middle Eastern patients seeking<br />
to have their ethnic features enhanced, especially in<br />
Asians by having rhinoplasty <strong>and</strong> double eyelid surgery,<br />
8 // ACSM DEFINITIVE GUIDE NON-SURGICAL FACIAL REJUVENATION<br />
face<br />
<strong>and</strong> especially in Middle Eastern patients by undergoing a<br />
reduction rhinoplasty.<br />
Although ‘fi tting in’ is a subconscious motivation, more<br />
often the surgery is an enhancement <strong>and</strong> optimisation of<br />
the already beautiful features of Asian <strong>and</strong> Middle Eastern<br />
faces. To say that different ethnic groups are striving to be<br />
Caucasian is over-simplifying the trend.<br />
<strong>Cosmetic</strong> plastic surgery performed by surgeons who<br />
have an appreciation of the aesthetics of different racial<br />
subgroups can achieve a ‘harmonising’ of facial features.<br />
There is beauty in all races, which we are privileged to<br />
appreciate in our multicultural society. csbm<br />
ANTI AGEING<br />
1<br />
BEFORE<br />
2<br />
AFTER double eyelid surgery by Dr Hodgkinson<br />
BEFORE<br />
AFTER double eyelid surgery by Dr Hodgkinson<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 95
face<br />
Rebuild<br />
&<br />
rejuvenate<br />
from within<br />
Sculptra is a facial volumiser<br />
that stimulates collagen<br />
production for A gradual <strong>and</strong><br />
long-lasting facial rejuvenation.<br />
Caitlin Bishop reports.<br />
Acting as a direct collagen stimulator, Sculptra<br />
from iNova rebuilds, refines <strong>and</strong> fortifies the facial<br />
foundations. It can be used as both a preventative<br />
measure <strong>and</strong> an anti-ageing treatment. By stimulating <strong>and</strong><br />
building upon the body’s natural processes, Sculptra can<br />
return youthfulness to the facial contours for a gradual,<br />
natural-looking rejuvenation.<br />
‘We all start losing collagen at around one percent per<br />
year after the age of 18,’ Sydney cosmetic surgeon Dr Neal<br />
Hamilton explains. ‘Because of this, Sculptra can be used<br />
as a preventative method from around age 25, or as a facial<br />
rejuvenation treatment in older patients. As it directly works<br />
to stimulate your own collagen, it’s suitable for anyone who<br />
wishes to postpone ageing.’<br />
96 www.cosbeauty.com.au
Sculptra is a deep facial injectable that redefines the<br />
facial structure <strong>and</strong> stimulates the production of new<br />
collagen in the dermis. Dr Hamilton explains it can be<br />
especially effective in tightening <strong>and</strong> rejuvenating the lateral<br />
parts of the face.<br />
‘The face is a layered structure <strong>and</strong>, on the outside of the<br />
face – the temples, high cheekbones <strong>and</strong> the cheek/mouth<br />
junction – these layers of the face are “stuck together”,’<br />
Dr Hamilton explains. ‘In these places it is very difficult<br />
to achieve smooth, effective results with regular fillers,<br />
because there is no space between the layers. Instead, it’s<br />
better to thicken <strong>and</strong> strengthen what’s already there <strong>and</strong> I<br />
believe Sculptra is the best way to do this.’<br />
Sculptra is made from poly-L-lactic acid, a biocompatible<br />
<strong>and</strong> biodegradable material. It works within the facial tissue<br />
to trigger neocollagenesis (the production of new collagen),<br />
Sculptra directly works to<br />
stimulate your own collagen <strong>and</strong><br />
postpone signs of ageing<br />
which gradually restores volume to reduce the appearance<br />
of shallow <strong>and</strong> deep facial wrinkles <strong>and</strong> hollows on the<br />
skin’s surface. This is a progressive process <strong>and</strong> takes<br />
time to appear. Typically, neocollagenesis takes around 12<br />
weeks to occur, <strong>and</strong> results will continue to improve in the<br />
four to five months following treatment.<br />
‘Sculptra works like a fertilizer <strong>and</strong> is great for those<br />
patients interested in natural-looking, minimally invasive<br />
<strong>and</strong> subtle results,’ Dr Hamilton says. ‘For patients after<br />
more immediate results, I always take time to explain that<br />
in my experience Sculptra affords better results, that last<br />
longer <strong>and</strong> are easier to maintain.’<br />
The amount of treatments needed varies between<br />
patients, depending on age <strong>and</strong> individual concerns. Dr<br />
Hamilton explains it is best to approach a qualified <strong>and</strong><br />
experienced practitioner, who can tailor the treatment to<br />
suit each individual.<br />
‘The amount of product needed, <strong>and</strong> the<br />
number of treatments required, changes<br />
from patient to patient <strong>and</strong> it is important to<br />
see a practitioner who is experienced <strong>and</strong><br />
underst<strong>and</strong>s how Sculptra works over the<br />
long term,’ Dr Hamilton explains. ‘Generally,<br />
Sculptra is best to be thought of as a long-term<br />
preventative program. Initially, we perform a<br />
couple of treatments to reach an optimal stage<br />
<strong>and</strong> then conserve this result with maintenance<br />
treatments every year or so.’<br />
Patients often experience some swelling<br />
following treatment, <strong>and</strong> some redness,<br />
BEFORE<br />
bruising <strong>and</strong> numbness can be expected<br />
directly after injection. In some cases, Dr<br />
Where can Sculptra<br />
be used?<br />
face<br />
• Lateral face, to fill hollows <strong>and</strong> refine cheekbones<br />
• Smile lines, to smooth the folds between the nose<br />
<strong>and</strong> the mouth<br />
• Marionette lines, to fill the lines framing the mouth<br />
• Chin, to reduce the appearance of chin wrinkling<br />
• Decolletage, to smooth cleavage lines<br />
Hamilton combines Sculptra with other modalities for a<br />
more universal result.<br />
‘Sculptra treatment can be partnered with cosmetic<br />
procedures such as blepharoplasty, thread lifting <strong>and</strong><br />
botulinum toxin injections,’ Dr Hamilton explains. ‘If<br />
patients are looking for a facelift effect without the fees <strong>and</strong><br />
surgical downtime, I often recommend Sculptra <strong>and</strong> thread<br />
lifting together.’<br />
Historically, the décolletage has been one of the most<br />
difficult areas to treat cosmetically, however considerable<br />
success has been found using Sculptra to improve the<br />
appearance of the chest.<br />
‘Sculptra noticeably improves the appearance of those<br />
deep cleavage lines <strong>and</strong> can achieve results that are just<br />
not possibwle with any other filler,’ says Dr Hamilton.<br />
By fuelling the body’s natural regenerative processes<br />
<strong>and</strong> adding volume, strength <strong>and</strong> resilience to the facial<br />
structures, Sculptra replaces lost collagen to refresh <strong>and</strong><br />
rejuvenate the complexion.<br />
‘The Sculptra patients we’ve had are ecstatic,’ Dr<br />
Hamilton says. ‘And, importantly, they are happy on a<br />
number of fronts: with the results themselves; with the<br />
gradual result that lends discretion <strong>and</strong> subtlety; with<br />
the affordable cost; <strong>and</strong> finally, with the small amount of<br />
maintenance required to keep those smooth, refined <strong>and</strong><br />
youthful-looking facial contours.’ csbm<br />
25 months AFTER Sculptra treatment (5 vials)<br />
Photos courtesy of iNova. Individual results may<br />
vary. Photos untouched.<br />
anti ageing<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 97
nose<br />
Rhinoplasty:<br />
more than just a nose job<br />
Sydney ENT <strong>and</strong> facial cosmetic surgeon Dr William Mooney<br />
explains rhinoplasty can restore youthfulness to the entire FAce.<br />
Caitlin Bishop reports.<br />
There’s more to rhinoplasty than improving the shape<br />
or size of the nose – it also addresses functional<br />
issues <strong>and</strong> can have a noticeable anti-ageing effect.<br />
‘The nose is a vital, complicated organ, it’s a gateway to<br />
the upper respiratory tract, the egress to the nasal sinuses<br />
<strong>and</strong>, unfortunately, there are a lot of problems that can<br />
affect its functioning,’ says Sydney ENT <strong>and</strong> facial cosmetic<br />
surgeon Dr William Mooney. ‘When patients come to me<br />
because they’re unhappy with the shape of their nose, we<br />
also address the underlying functional problems. They often<br />
leave happier with their new improved nasal airways than<br />
their appearance.’<br />
Indeed, by addressing any nasal obstructions or<br />
breathing irregularities, Dr Mooney explains rhinoplasty can<br />
improve quality of life <strong>and</strong>, in some cases, sooth an irritable<br />
temper! ‘The types of problems I often see at the same<br />
time as cosmetic concerns are post traumatic obstruction,<br />
allergies, snoring <strong>and</strong> sleep apnea, <strong>and</strong> difficulty breathing<br />
during exercise,’ he says. ‘They may seem like little things,<br />
but when stacked up together they can really impinge on<br />
quality of life. For example, if you don’t breath properly,<br />
particularly at night-time, this can give you a tired <strong>and</strong><br />
drawn appearance, <strong>and</strong> also negatively affect your mood.’<br />
Returning the nasal tip to a<br />
more youthful position can be a<br />
fantastic anti-ageing procedure<br />
From post-trauma bumps, to functional difficulties, there<br />
are many reasons people approach Dr Mooney. A common<br />
concern is the ageing nose, which can add years to an<br />
ageing face.<br />
‘As we age, noses become bigger <strong>and</strong> more irregular,’<br />
Dr Mooney says. ‘Deviations in noses are like the Leaning<br />
98 www.cosbeauty.com.au
nose<br />
Tower of Pisa – they often progress as time goes by. As well<br />
as this, the skin becomes thinner with advancing age so any<br />
irregularities become more pronounced.’<br />
Dr Mooney explains these signs of ageing can occur<br />
alongside tip ptosis – when the tip of the<br />
nose droops downward <strong>and</strong> the angle of<br />
1<br />
the nose is affected. ‘Everything starts to<br />
go south as the years go by, <strong>and</strong> the nose<br />
is no exception. Returning the tip to its<br />
lovely youthful position <strong>and</strong> reducing the<br />
size of the nose can be a fantastic antiageing<br />
procedure.’<br />
Before rhinoplasty, Dr Mooney<br />
conducts a through consultation with<br />
each patient to discuss patient history,<br />
address any concerns <strong>and</strong> establish<br />
their expectations for surgery. These<br />
consultations are conducted through<br />
Face Plus Medispa at Dr Mooney’s clinic.<br />
‘The nose really has to be in harmony<br />
with the rest of the face,’ he says. ‘Getting<br />
BEFORE<br />
the balance right is not just as simple as<br />
2<br />
altering the nose, sometimes other facial<br />
features need to be addressed at the<br />
same time.’<br />
To optimise results, Dr Mooney often<br />
performs rhinoplasty in conjunction with<br />
other anti-ageing procedures. ‘Where<br />
required, blepharoplasty (eye lift), a<br />
thread lift, facelift or sub mental (chin)<br />
liposculpture can be performed at the<br />
same time as rhinoplasty,’ he says. ‘This<br />
offers a one-stop surgical treatment; it<br />
means patients have one anaesthetic,<br />
one down time <strong>and</strong> one recovery period.<br />
It also means we can address any other<br />
anti-ageing concerns at the same time as<br />
dealing with the functional <strong>and</strong> aesthetic<br />
BEFORE<br />
aspects of the nose.’<br />
3<br />
Not everyone, however, is suited to<br />
undergo multiple surgeries at once. In<br />
some cases, the laser therapies, skincare<br />
treatments <strong>and</strong> anti-ageing injectables<br />
offered at Face Plus Medispa are a<br />
suitable non-surgical alternative to help<br />
combat the ageing face.<br />
For anyone considering cosmetic<br />
enhancement, Dr Mooney advises<br />
consulting an experienced <strong>and</strong> reputable<br />
surgeon to gain the most from your<br />
chosen procedure.<br />
‘Rhinoplasty, in particular, is a<br />
complicated operation. I advise patients<br />
that it should only be performed by a<br />
surgeon with good ear, nose <strong>and</strong> throat<br />
BEFORE<br />
experience, as well as a strong cosmetic background,’ Dr<br />
Mooney says. ‘A rhinoplasty is much more than a “nose<br />
job”. It should fix both functional <strong>and</strong> cosmetic concerns, as<br />
well as offer a great anti-ageing procedure.’ csbm<br />
AFTER rhinoplasty by Dr Mooney<br />
AFTER rhinoplasty by Dr Mooney<br />
AFTER rhinoplasty by Dr Mooney<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 99
nose<br />
A<br />
nose<br />
for<br />
beauty<br />
Sydney plastic surgeon<br />
Dr Alex Phoon says rhinoplasty<br />
can improve both the appearance<br />
<strong>and</strong> function of the nose.<br />
AimÉe Surtenich reports.<br />
Rhinoplasty is one of the most popular cosmetic<br />
surgeries <strong>and</strong>, for the right individual, it can greatly<br />
improve not only a person’s overall appearance but<br />
also their self-esteem.<br />
‘The benefits of rhinoplasty are endless,’ says Sydney<br />
plastic surgeon Dr Alex Phoon from Silkwood Medical.<br />
‘It can repair or reshape the nose after trauma or injury,<br />
improve the size, shape <strong>and</strong> angle of the nose to work in<br />
harmony with the rest of the face, <strong>and</strong> also correct structural<br />
problems <strong>and</strong> alleviate difficulty breathing. Importantly, for<br />
someone who has lived their whole life with a nose they<br />
aren’t happy with, rhinoplasty can offer the right patient a<br />
new lease on life, boosting confidence <strong>and</strong> self-esteem.’<br />
First things first<br />
The nose is an intricate network of bones, cartilage, cells,<br />
blood vessels, nerves <strong>and</strong> skin. It is therefore essential<br />
that any prospective patient choose a surgeon skilled <strong>and</strong><br />
experienced in rhinoplasty surgery.<br />
‘It’s also important to have a good rapport with your<br />
chosen surgeon, so you feel comfortable in communicating<br />
the concerns you have about your nose <strong>and</strong> can be honest<br />
about your expectations of nose surgery,’ says Dr Phoon.<br />
‘My commitment to my patients is foremost; together,<br />
we discuss in detail what is required to achieve the best<br />
results possible. This open dialogue is a fundamental part<br />
of achieving a successful outcome.’<br />
100 www.cosbeauty.com.au
nose<br />
Whereas some patients may know with great<br />
detail what they dislike about their nose, others may<br />
not be able to pinpoint their dissatisfaction. The<br />
consultation therefore provides an ideal opportunity<br />
to ask questions of the surgeon, while also learning<br />
more about the associated risks <strong>and</strong> complications of<br />
rhinoplasty surgery.<br />
‘There is no “one size fits all” when it comes to<br />
rhinoplasty. In order to determine the optimal nose size <strong>and</strong><br />
shape for each individual patient, I assess the shape of the<br />
patient’s face, their bone structure <strong>and</strong> skin type,’ explains<br />
Dr Phoon. ‘General factors such as age, sex, ethnicity,<br />
height <strong>and</strong> body type, as well as functional problems of the<br />
nose such as sinusitis, snoring <strong>and</strong> difficulty breathing, will<br />
also impact on my surgical approach.’<br />
This individualised approach is essential in achieving<br />
natural-looking results in rhinoplasty, something Dr Phoon<br />
believes should be of paramount importance. ‘Patients<br />
should still look like themselves following a rhinoplasty<br />
procedure,’ he says. ‘Especially for male rhinoplasty, the<br />
result should not be too feminised or overly refined; it has<br />
to be tailored to the patient’s own face <strong>and</strong> body shape.’<br />
The ins <strong>and</strong> outs of rhinoplasty<br />
The techniques used to augment or sculpt the nose differ<br />
depending on the desired outcome, the preference of the<br />
surgeon <strong>and</strong> the functional properties of the nose. There<br />
are, however, two main rhinoplasty techniques: the ‘open’<br />
<strong>and</strong> ‘closed’ approach.<br />
Although the end goal is often the same – either to<br />
augment or reduce the nose – the two techniques differ<br />
primarily in their access to the nasal structure.<br />
In open rhinoplasty, also called external rhinoplasty, the<br />
surgeon makes an incision over the columella (the tissue<br />
<strong>and</strong> skin that separate the nostrils at the base of the nose),<br />
in addition to several other incisions inside the nose.<br />
‘The transcolumellar incision improves the surgical<br />
access to the nasal framework by allowing the surgeon<br />
to fold the nasal skin upward,’ Dr Phoon explains. ‘This<br />
provides better visibility to the entire nasal framework, in its<br />
natural undisturbed alignment.’<br />
Because the inner cartilage network <strong>and</strong> underlying<br />
structure of the nose is exposed, the surgeon has greater<br />
visibility than with the closed rhinoplasty approach, <strong>and</strong> is<br />
able to work on the inner structures with more precision<br />
<strong>and</strong> freedom. Open rhinoplasty is therefore often chosen for<br />
more complicated cases.<br />
The open technique also helps to ensure the basic<br />
foundation of the nasal structure is kept strong, facilitating a<br />
natural-looking outcome with long-lasting results. Dr Phoon<br />
says the open technique is best suited in major augmentation<br />
cases, in the correction of complex nasal deformities <strong>and</strong><br />
during revision rhinoplasty. The other technique, “closed”<br />
rhinoplasty, also known as endonasal rhinoplasty, is where<br />
all the surgical incisions are made inside the nose without<br />
any external incisions,’ says Dr Phoon. ‘Closed rhinoplasty<br />
is employed for the correction of aesthetic deformity of the<br />
nose as well as for the management of anatomic nasal<br />
airway obstruction.’<br />
Breathe easy<br />
Not all rhinoplasty procedures are performed for cosmetic<br />
reasons alone – a deformed exterior often indicates an<br />
equally significant deformity of the internal nose with<br />
impaired function. Typically, in order to adequately restore<br />
function, the surgeon must change the outside of the nose<br />
Functional rhinoplasty can correct breathing difficulties,<br />
frequent sinus infections, snoring, absence of smell <strong>and</strong><br />
taste, stuffiness <strong>and</strong> post-nasal drip. Dr Phoon uses the<br />
latest techniques in endoscopic external nasal valve surgery<br />
to clear the airways <strong>and</strong> improve the patient’s breathing.<br />
One of the most common functional problems is a<br />
deviated septum (a midline cartilage structure that divides<br />
the nose into right <strong>and</strong> left sides). ‘A severely deviated<br />
septum results in a blocked nasal airway <strong>and</strong> a visibly<br />
crooked nose or a hump on the bridge of the nose,’<br />
explains Dr Phoon.<br />
‘Rhinoplasty continues to have one of the highest patient<br />
satisfaction rates; patients often report the surgery has<br />
given them a new lease on life, enabling them to look their<br />
best <strong>and</strong> breathe easy,’ Dr Phoon concludes. csbm<br />
After rhinoplasty by Dr Phoon<br />
After rhinoplasty by Dr Phoon<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 101
nose<br />
Nose<br />
reshaping<br />
– without<br />
surgery<br />
Princess filler offers an<br />
effective non-surgical option<br />
for reshaping the nose.<br />
AimÉe Surtenich reports.<br />
In the past, even the slightest cosmetic irregularity of the<br />
nose was typically only treatable with surgery. Today<br />
the use of fillers for non-surgical rhinoplasty has proved<br />
advantageous for many people who are uncomfortable<br />
with the appearance of their nose but do not wish to<br />
undergo surgery.<br />
While it isn’t an option for patients with internal<br />
complaints, non-surgical nasal reconstruction with<br />
dermal filler offers an immediate result <strong>and</strong> effective<br />
alternative for those with minor nasal irregularities.<br />
Sydney cosmetic surgeon Dr Peter Kim has been<br />
seeing outst<strong>and</strong>ing results using Princess Volume<br />
hyaluronic acid filler for non-surgical rhinoplasty. ‘It can<br />
correct a myriad of cosmetic defects, such as adding<br />
volume <strong>and</strong> a more prominent contour to a flat nasal<br />
bridge,’ he says. ‘Other indications can include: a<br />
deviated dorsum, which might be natural or occur after<br />
an accident; an under-projected nose tip where the tip<br />
does not protrude enough; an overhanging nasal tip,<br />
which makes the nose look hooked or ‘witchy’; <strong>and</strong> a<br />
short columella, the small column running from the tip of<br />
the nose to the upper lip, which separates the nostrils.<br />
In addition to bridge augmentation, smoothing out any<br />
bumps, depressions or asymmetries, <strong>and</strong> shaping the tip<br />
of the nose, the in-office procedure can be effective for<br />
post-surgical rhinoplasty corrections where the results<br />
have been less than satisfactory.<br />
According to Dr Kim, Princess Volume is a superior<br />
product for non-surgical nose reshaping due to its<br />
precise balance of viscosity <strong>and</strong> elasticity, delivering a<br />
soft <strong>and</strong> smooth yet malleable consistency.<br />
102 www.cosbeauty.com.au
nose<br />
‘Princess Volume can be injected through a smaller<br />
needle, which allows me to shape <strong>and</strong> sculpt the contours<br />
of the nose with unparalleled precision for better definition<br />
<strong>and</strong> shape,’ he says. ‘In my experience, Princess filler<br />
holds its position precisely where it has been injected at the<br />
time of sculpting, resisting migration <strong>and</strong> offering a longlasting<br />
result.’<br />
The procedure itself involves injecting filler into key<br />
areas around the nose, depending on the individual<br />
patient’s requirements. ‘It is imperative the patient chooses<br />
an experienced practitioner who truly underst<strong>and</strong>s the<br />
aesthetics of the nose <strong>and</strong> its interrelation with the other<br />
facial features,’ says Dr Kim.<br />
‘For my patients, I first start by examining five key<br />
points on the nose,’ he continues. ‘Then, with the patient’s<br />
feedback, we decide on how we can modify these l<strong>and</strong>mark<br />
points to produce a more aesthetically pleasing nose.<br />
Pre-injection markings are drawn <strong>and</strong> local anaesthetic<br />
is administered to help reduce any patient discomfort.<br />
Princess Volume filler is then injected in a sequence to<br />
improve the five l<strong>and</strong>mark points in order to create a<br />
nose that is in proportion <strong>and</strong><br />
1<br />
harmony with the overall face.<br />
The whole process can take<br />
less than 10 minutes.’<br />
There’s typically no downtime<br />
after non-surgical rhinoplasty<br />
<strong>and</strong> generally little discomfort<br />
so patients can go straight back<br />
to work <strong>and</strong> everyday activities.<br />
‘Aesthetic improvement is seen<br />
immediately at the time of<br />
injection,’ says Dr Kim. ‘Patients<br />
can expect some residual<br />
redness <strong>and</strong> slight swelling<br />
after treatment, but this can be<br />
covered by makeup <strong>and</strong> should<br />
resolve within a few days.’<br />
Longevity of results varies<br />
2BEFORE<br />
from patient to patient,<br />
depending on factors such as<br />
skin tightness <strong>and</strong> elasticity. In<br />
most cases, though, patients<br />
can expect results to last around<br />
six to nine months, with top-ups<br />
generally required twice a year.<br />
‘With Princess Volume,<br />
subtle changes can make<br />
a dramatic difference to the<br />
appearance of the nose. For<br />
the suitable patient, it offers an<br />
effective way to define, contour<br />
<strong>and</strong> beautify the nose without<br />
the need for surgery,’ Dr Kim<br />
concludes. csbm<br />
BEFORE<br />
About Princess Fillers<br />
The Princess suite of fillers, developed by Croma in<br />
Austria, is formulated to treat a wide range of cosmetic<br />
indications. Princess is a cross-linked hyaluronic acidbased<br />
range, which is a naturally occurring substance<br />
in the human body. The unique method of cross-linking<br />
is a process to develop a highly dense tri-dimensional<br />
matrix based on Croma’s Supreme Monophasic <strong>and</strong><br />
Reticulated Technology (SMART).<br />
It is a 100 percent non-animal hyaluronic acid (HA)<br />
of biofermentative origin. The HA chains are carefully<br />
aligned with each other in order to create a higher<br />
resistance <strong>and</strong> therefore a longer lasting filler for patients.<br />
The highly viscous gel is then homogenised to give it<br />
a smooth consistency, which enables more control for<br />
the practitioner throughout the injection process <strong>and</strong><br />
more comfort for the patient.<br />
Princess is available in three formulations: Filler,<br />
Volume <strong>and</strong> Rich to suit a range of cosmetic indications.<br />
AFTER non-surgical rhinoplasty by Dr Kim<br />
AFTER non-surgical rhinoplasty by Dr Kim<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 103
teeth<br />
rebuilt<br />
SYDNEY AESTHETIC RECONSTRUCTIVE DENTIST DR SARKIS NALBANDIAN TAKES<br />
AN INDIVIDUALISED APPROACH IN CREATING NATURAL-LOOKING, AESTHETICALLY<br />
PLEASING AND FUNCTIONAL SMILES. CAITLIN BISHOP REPORTS.<br />
In reconstructive cases, Dr Nalb<strong>and</strong>ian uses implants<br />
(he has dual qualifi cations in implant surgery <strong>and</strong><br />
prosthodontics) to build the smile framework <strong>and</strong> form<br />
a scaffolding for the porcelain veneers. He says effective<br />
results can be achieved using dental implants, but patient<br />
care is of upmost importance in securing results.<br />
‘The successful integration of implants depends on many<br />
factors, including general health, the quality <strong>and</strong> quantity<br />
of bone, surgical techniques <strong>and</strong> care of the implant site,’<br />
Dr Nalb<strong>and</strong>ian explains. ‘It is also important to stress that<br />
smoking, unhealthy gums <strong>and</strong> severe teeth grinding after<br />
treatment can greatly reduce the chances of successful<br />
implant integration.’<br />
Careful planning is required before any smile rejuvenation<br />
– reconstructive or aesthetic – <strong>and</strong> Dr Nalb<strong>and</strong>ian<br />
undertakes an extensive consultation process with each<br />
patient. Before treatment, Dr Nalb<strong>and</strong>ian photographs the<br />
patient from three angles – front, oblique <strong>and</strong> profi le – to<br />
establish the most important aspects of their smile <strong>and</strong><br />
evaluate the interplay between their lips, gums <strong>and</strong> teeth.<br />
Actual Patient<br />
A<br />
beautiful smile can fuel the face with youthfulness,<br />
beautiful smile can fuel the face with youthfulness,<br />
confi dence <strong>and</strong> vibrancy. By taking a holistic <strong>and</strong><br />
individualised approach to smile rejuvenation, Sydney<br />
aesthetic reconstructive dentist Dr Sarkis Nalb<strong>and</strong>ian uses<br />
minimally invasive techniques to preserve <strong>and</strong> optimise the<br />
patient’s natural smile.<br />
‘It’s all about the face, <strong>and</strong> not just about the teeth,’<br />
Dr Nalb<strong>and</strong>ian explains. ‘Optimal tooth shape, tooth<br />
shade <strong>and</strong> arch shape should be considered alongside the<br />
facial frame – that is aesthetics. Creating a beautiful smile<br />
should be about imitating nature <strong>and</strong> preserving what’s<br />
already there.’<br />
Dr Nalb<strong>and</strong>ian is experienced in using a variety of<br />
methods for smile rejuvenation, <strong>and</strong> he often recommends<br />
composite <strong>and</strong> ultra-thin porcelain veneers to achieve a<br />
signifi cant, though minimally invasive, smile transformation.<br />
‘I believe composite <strong>and</strong> ultra-thin porcelain veneers,<br />
which are especially developed by my technical team in<br />
clinic, afford aesthetic <strong>and</strong> functional results with minimal<br />
intervention,’ Dr Nalb<strong>and</strong>ian says. ‘These veneers require<br />
no local anaesthetic <strong>and</strong>, most importantly, the existing<br />
enamel is always preserved.’<br />
Creating a beautiful smile should<br />
be about imitating nature <strong>and</strong><br />
preserving what’s already there<br />
Notably, Dr Nalb<strong>and</strong>ian does not rely on digital smile<br />
design software but instead works within the mouth to<br />
accurately prepare the most suitable treatment plan for each<br />
patient. ‘Smile design is an art form <strong>and</strong> I work within the<br />
mouth directly to diagnose <strong>and</strong> plan the best treatments for<br />
my patients,’ he says. ‘The challenge is to create natural<br />
smiles that complement the patient’s beauty <strong>and</strong> facial<br />
aesthetic. This dem<strong>and</strong>s an individualised approach, <strong>and</strong><br />
cannot be digitalised.’<br />
Dr Nalb<strong>and</strong>ian’s philosophy is centred upon providing<br />
quality, aesthetic dentistry. There is always a follow-up<br />
regimen to ensure long-term maintenance of results <strong>and</strong> to<br />
protect against any potential complications.<br />
‘Improving aesthetics <strong>and</strong> functions is a complex<br />
process; it takes considerable skill, effort <strong>and</strong>, importantly,<br />
planning <strong>and</strong> patience from our patients,’ Dr Nalb<strong>and</strong>ian<br />
says. ‘However, with the right preparation <strong>and</strong> follow-up<br />
process, the results speak for themselves.’ csbm<br />
104 www.cosbeauty.com.au
teeth<br />
CASE STUDY<br />
This patient approached Dr Nalb<strong>and</strong>ian seeking to improve<br />
the aesthetic appearance of his smile. He hoped to correct<br />
his smile line, straighten the arch of his upper teeth <strong>and</strong><br />
improve his tooth colour. He was also missing two teeth,<br />
which were replaced with dental implants.<br />
Approximately six months after the insertion of implants,<br />
Dr Nalb<strong>and</strong>ian applied ultra-thin porcelain veneers to<br />
improve the shape, length, symmetry <strong>and</strong> colour of the<br />
upper arch teeth.<br />
‘His examination showed that, during initial to full smile,<br />
there was good lip symmetry,’ Dr Nalb<strong>and</strong>ian explains. ‘This<br />
lip line served as a reference for building the upper arch with<br />
composite porcelain veneers.’<br />
The veneers also serve to straighten the upper dental<br />
arch <strong>and</strong> close the ‘reverse smile line’ – or negative space<br />
in between his lower <strong>and</strong> upper teeth.<br />
‘The “reverse smile line” tends to create dark spaces<br />
during normal speech <strong>and</strong> smiling, which can drastically<br />
affect dental aesthetics,’ Dr Nalb<strong>and</strong>ian says. ‘An anterior<br />
negative space is aesthetically undesirable in today’s<br />
society. Porcelain reconstructions can improve this smile<br />
line, making the upper arch almost parallel to the lower<br />
lip line.’<br />
Because this patient has a tendency to brux (grind his<br />
teeth), particularly at night, Dr Nalb<strong>and</strong>ian customised a<br />
night guard to protect the results for long-term success.<br />
‘For this patient, the entire treatment process took around<br />
six months,’ he explains. ‘Dentist education <strong>and</strong> experience<br />
are paramount in achieving aesthetic <strong>and</strong> functional results<br />
in smile rejuvenation. The aim should be to mimic nature in<br />
creating a smile that is natural looking <strong>and</strong> harmonious with<br />
the rest of the face.’<br />
BEFORE<br />
AFTER cosmetic dentistry by Dr Nalb<strong>and</strong>ian<br />
BEFORE<br />
AFTER cosmetic dentistry by Dr Nalb<strong>and</strong>ian<br />
BEFORE<br />
AFTER cosmetic dentistry by Dr Nalb<strong>and</strong>ian<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 105
easts<br />
What makes a<br />
beautiful breast?<br />
RECENT RESEARCH DEFINES THE FOUR<br />
IDEALS OF BEAUTIFUL BREASTS.<br />
When it comes to assessing breasts, you might be<br />
forgiven for thinking it’s all about size. Indeed,<br />
breast augmentation remains one of the most<br />
sought-after cosmetic surgical procedures, <strong>and</strong> involves<br />
adding volume to the bust. However, many surgeons<br />
believe a satisfactory augmentation is about more than<br />
adding volume – it’s also about shape, projection <strong>and</strong><br />
harmonising with the overall body shape <strong>and</strong> size.<br />
‘There is no such thing as the “perfect” breast,’ says<br />
British plastic surgeon Dr Paul Banwell. ‘However, there are<br />
four aesthetic guidelines that can help surgeons deliver a<br />
beautiful-looking breast.’<br />
These guidelines, which refer to the proportions of the<br />
upper <strong>and</strong> lower breast, their slope as well as the position<br />
of the nipple were investigated by a group of London<br />
Plastic Surgeons at the University College <strong>and</strong> Royal Free<br />
Hospitals. In a study entitled Concepts In Aesthetic Breast<br />
Dimensions: Analysis Of The Ideal Breast, Mallucci et al<br />
used computer measurements to examine the dimensions<br />
<strong>and</strong> proportions of 100 pairs of natural (non-enhanced)<br />
breasts deemed attractive, <strong>and</strong> identifi ed four features<br />
common to all.<br />
‘The study revealed that in all cases the level of the nipple<br />
lay at a point 20 degrees above the horizontal where, on<br />
average, the proportion of the breast below it represented<br />
55 per cent of overall volume of the breast <strong>and</strong> above it 45<br />
per cent,’ explains Dr Banwell. ‘In most cases, the upper<br />
pole was either concave or straight, <strong>and</strong> the lower pole of<br />
the breast was convex, creating a full curve.’<br />
The UK group also analysed images of the breasts of<br />
ordinary women both before <strong>and</strong> after implant surgery<br />
to establish whether, if a breast deviates from these<br />
measurements, it becomes less attractive. The answer,<br />
they found, was that it does, regardless of size.<br />
However, Dr Banwell is keen to reinforce the importance<br />
of tailoring breast shape <strong>and</strong> size to the individual<br />
proportions <strong>and</strong> circumstances of each patient. ‘A onesize-fi<br />
ts all approach is not appropriate,’ he says. ‘We have<br />
a way of assessing the aesthetics we’re trying to achieve<br />
with a breast augmentation, but it’s important to do that via<br />
a tailor-made approach.’<br />
For Dr Banwell, this involves detailed measurement,<br />
careful discussion with each patient <strong>and</strong> judicious selection<br />
of the optimal implant shape, texture <strong>and</strong> method of<br />
placement. ‘Every breast is different in terms of its shape<br />
<strong>and</strong> size <strong>and</strong> in terms of its characteristics. The surgeon<br />
has to assess that <strong>and</strong> then needs to make a judgement<br />
based upon the patient’s wishes in terms of what they want<br />
to achieve versus what can actually be achieved.’<br />
With so many media infl uences, today it is even more<br />
important to marry the patient’s wishes with what is both<br />
realistic <strong>and</strong> achievable. ‘It’s all about having realistic<br />
expectations of improvement,’ he says. ‘Communication<br />
with the patient is therefore so important.’<br />
According to Dr Banwell, the education <strong>and</strong> knowledge<br />
of patients has changed in the last decade, <strong>and</strong> they are<br />
becoming increasingly discerning about the shape <strong>and</strong> type<br />
of implants they want. However, the most common request<br />
today is for breasts to be ‘natural-looking’.<br />
Dr Banwell believes that, by referencing the guidelines<br />
revealed by Dr Mallucci et al, women can look forward<br />
to the most natural-looking, aesthetically pleasing breast<br />
augmentations. csbm<br />
The 4 breast ideals<br />
1. The proportion of the upper to lower pole is 45:55<br />
2. The angulation of the nipple is pointing upwards at<br />
20 degrees<br />
3. The upper pole of the breast is slightly concave<br />
4. The lower pole of the breast is slightly convex<br />
STRAIGHT<br />
OR CONCAVE<br />
45%<br />
20 o<br />
55%<br />
CONVEX<br />
UPPER POLE LOWER POLE<br />
106 www.cosbeauty.com.au
Desired<br />
WHAT IS YOUR<br />
LOOK?<br />
Getting back to what you had or obtaining the look you always wanted.<br />
Silimed offers an extensive range of shapes <strong>and</strong> sizes, textured or polyurethane<br />
breast implants to suit any desire.<br />
Talk to your surgeon about your desired look <strong>and</strong> experience the Silimed difference.<br />
Always read the label. Use only as directed. Your surgeon will advise you whether this product is suitable for you.<br />
silimed@device.com.au | www.pureimplants.com.au
easts<br />
The<br />
Art of<br />
Conversation<br />
A surgeon’s perspective<br />
108 www.cosbeauty.com.au
easts<br />
Sydney plastic surgeon Dr Benjamin Norris emphasises the importance<br />
of the human touch In a world of assembly line breast surgery.<br />
Consumers today are bombarded by television<br />
commercials, billboards <strong>and</strong> magazine adverts<br />
urging them to ‘get a breast lift,’ <strong>and</strong> ‘see how<br />
breast implants can make you more beautiful’, says plastic<br />
surgeon Dr Benjamin Norris. ‘The problem is that many of<br />
these adverts are for cosmetic enhancement “mills” that<br />
place more emphasis on the number of procedures they<br />
perform than on the individual needs of patients,’ he says.<br />
Dr Norris has trained for 20 years both in Sydney<br />
<strong>and</strong> overseas to become fully qualified as a Plastic <strong>and</strong><br />
Reconstructive Surgeon who specialises in <strong>Cosmetic</strong><br />
<strong>Surgery</strong>. He is the medical director of the Form & Face<br />
clinics located in Bondi Junction <strong>and</strong> Bella Vista where he<br />
provides surgical <strong>and</strong> non-surgical cosmetic enhancement<br />
to men <strong>and</strong> women.<br />
A welcoming environment<br />
Dr Norris has a way of making everyone who walks through<br />
his doors instantly comfortable. ‘The reception area is warm<br />
<strong>and</strong> inviting, as are the people behind the desk,’ he says.<br />
‘Coming into a plastic surgeon’s office, or any doctor’s office<br />
for that matter, makes many people uncomfortable. That<br />
discomfort can be intensified when cosmetic enhancement<br />
services are provided in a setting that is cold, sterile, or in an<br />
odd location such as a shopping centre.’<br />
‘We welcome clients to our practice with comfortable<br />
furniture, lovely art objects <strong>and</strong> a gorgeous view to enjoy<br />
while waiting in our offices in Bondi Junction. All these<br />
amenities work to calm patients.’<br />
‘Many doctors overwhelm their patients by talking too<br />
much or too little,’ he continues. ‘I like an initial consultation<br />
to be more of a two-way conversation, a dialogue, not a<br />
monologue.’ This perspective has earned him a reputation<br />
as a patient-friendly surgeon who is an excellent listener as<br />
well as a skilled diagnostician <strong>and</strong> surgeon.<br />
‘The people who visit me always say afterwards they had<br />
no qualms telling me intimate details about their breasts<br />
<strong>and</strong> body because they felt so relaxed,’ says Dr Norris.<br />
The importance of sincerity cannot be overstated. Many<br />
cosmetic enhancement procedures are complex surgeries,<br />
<strong>and</strong> though they are mostly straightforward <strong>and</strong> simple, the<br />
risk of complications does exist.<br />
To minimise that risk, Dr Norris puts all patients through<br />
a physical screening. ‘I need to be informed about every<br />
aspect of a patient’s health,’ he says. ‘This isn’t always<br />
easy when health issues are sensitive or embarrassing<br />
to the patient. If I take the time to put my clients at ease,<br />
they feel free to tell me about anything that might impact<br />
their surgery, such as sleep apnoea, or having a disease<br />
or illness. Once I know what their challenges are, I can<br />
recommend solutions.<br />
Emotional well-being<br />
Dr Norris works to underst<strong>and</strong> his patients in their entirety,<br />
both physically <strong>and</strong> emotionally. ‘Women going through<br />
severe stress, such as the loss of a spouse, unemployment<br />
or other life-altering events may not be in the best mental<br />
state to make good decisions about what breast surgery will<br />
mean for them,’ he says. ‘I talk with them to make certain<br />
that their reason for having a cosmetic procedure is sound<br />
<strong>and</strong> their goals are realistic.’<br />
There are other ‘red flags’ for Dr Norris. ‘I’m always<br />
concerned about a prospective patient who tells me she<br />
wants to achieve perfection because, frankly, barbie-doll<br />
perfection is impossible,’ he says.<br />
Realistic expectations<br />
In a career spanning more than two decades, Dr Norris<br />
has seen every shape <strong>and</strong> size of breast <strong>and</strong> heard every<br />
imaginable request for change. He has performed hundreds<br />
of breast augmentations, but often advises women to rethink<br />
the outcome they originally envision. ‘I would never<br />
dictate to a woman what size her breasts should be,’ he<br />
says. ‘But I do try to help guide women down the right path<br />
when choosing breast sizes <strong>and</strong> shapes.’<br />
Dr Norris feels it’s his responsibility to talk with clients<br />
about body proportions, body image <strong>and</strong> other factors that<br />
they may not have considered. ‘In this way, my clients can<br />
enjoy a beautiful new, well-proportioned figure <strong>and</strong> not end<br />
up looking ridiculous or “top heavy”.’<br />
The comfort of continuity<br />
It has become increasingly common in 21st century<br />
healthcare for people to see one doctor one day, <strong>and</strong><br />
another doctor the next. They don’t have the opportunity<br />
to build a relationship with the person responsible for their<br />
well-being, <strong>and</strong> this makes patients uncomfortable. Dr<br />
Norris takes a different tack, with a h<strong>and</strong>s-on approach<br />
from first consultation to final visit.<br />
Rather than asking his nurses or assistants to measure<br />
clients, for example, Dr Norris does this work himself. ‘I don’t<br />
want my patients to feel they’re being shuttled from person<br />
to person <strong>and</strong> only have access to me in the operating<br />
room <strong>and</strong> while they’re asleep. My patients aren’t numbers<br />
to me. They’re people I really care about as individuals,’ he<br />
concludes. csbm<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 109
easts<br />
1<br />
BEFORE AFTER breast augmentation by Dr Norris<br />
2<br />
BEFORE<br />
AFTER breast augmentation <strong>and</strong> breast lift by Dr Norris<br />
3<br />
BEFORE AFTER breast augmentation by Dr Norris<br />
110 www.cosbeauty.com.au
easts<br />
4<br />
BEFORE<br />
AFTER breast augmentation by Dr Norris<br />
5<br />
BEFORE<br />
AFTER breast augmentation by Dr Norris<br />
6<br />
BEFORE AFTER breast augmentation by Dr Norris
easts<br />
Age-defying<br />
breast<br />
augmentation<br />
Breast implant surgery isn’t just about increasing size – it can also<br />
create the look of more youthful breasts, says Sydney cosmetic<br />
surgeon Dr Colin Moore. Tara Casey reports.<br />
For many women, breast augmentation can help<br />
restore the more youthful shape of their breasts<br />
prior to ageing <strong>and</strong> before breastfeeding took its<br />
toll. ‘Rather than seeking a bust that is significantly larger<br />
than their own, many women simply want to balance their<br />
figure <strong>and</strong> create a more shapely silhouette,’ says Sydney<br />
cosmetic surgeon Dr Colin Moore.<br />
After childbirth <strong>and</strong> with age, many women want<br />
to recapture how their breasts looked before having<br />
children, where breastfeeding a baby has caused slight<br />
breast atrophy or ptosis (sagging). ‘In such cases, it may<br />
be more beneficial to perform a breast lift (mastopexy),’<br />
says Dr Moore. ‘Depending on the patient, this can<br />
then be combined with a small breast implant to restore<br />
lost volume.’<br />
‘A key concern for a lot of women thinking about breast<br />
augmentation is whether or not their breasts will look<br />
“natural” following surgery,’ he continues. ‘While ensuring a<br />
natural-looking result comes down to accurately measuring<br />
the proportions of each patient, I also believe that advances<br />
in breast implants mean that it is easier than ever to achieve<br />
natural-looking curves. By measuring the proportions<br />
of the body, as well as skin thickness <strong>and</strong> breast tissue<br />
composition, together the surgeon <strong>and</strong> patient can<br />
determine the best breast size for the patient.’<br />
When planning a procedure, therefore, it is important to<br />
take a number of measurements to ensure the implant size<br />
<strong>and</strong> position are best suited to each individual.<br />
‘The basic dimensions of the breast are taken into<br />
account, including the breast base, height <strong>and</strong> overall<br />
width,’ says Dr Moore. ‘The distance from the nipple<br />
to the inframammary crease (underneath the breast) is<br />
influential in the appearance of a perky breast,’ he says. ‘By<br />
also measuring the relevant proportions of the figure, it is<br />
possible to determine the best breast size for the patient to<br />
enhance the rest of her body.’<br />
Advances in breast implants<br />
mean it is easier than ever to<br />
achieve natural-looking curves<br />
Dr Moore prefers to use polyurethane-coated P-URE<br />
implants as he believes they offer the best of both worlds:<br />
enhanced, natural-looking breasts with an excellent<br />
safety profile. ‘In my experience, polyurethane-coated<br />
breast implants produce very natural-looking results while<br />
minimising the risk of the most common complications<br />
associated with breast augmentation,’ he says. ‘I believe<br />
polyurethane-coated P-URE implants have provided a<br />
significant breakthrough in breast implant surgery.’<br />
All breast implants come with the risk of rippling, moving<br />
<strong>and</strong> capsular contraction, but Dr Moore believes the risk of<br />
these is significantly less with P-URE implants.<br />
112 www.cosbeauty.com.au
easts<br />
Part of the success of polyurethane implants is their<br />
ability to reduce the rate of capsular contracture, which<br />
is the hardening <strong>and</strong> distortion of implants as the body<br />
forms a scar capsule around them. The textured surface of<br />
P-URE implants forces the body’s collagen to surround the<br />
implant in a criss-cross pattern, preventing contraction <strong>and</strong><br />
lessening the chance of implant distortion.<br />
‘A number of studies have shown there is only a one<br />
percent risk of capsular contracture with polyurethanecoated<br />
implants, which is a significant improvement on the<br />
10 percent risk associated with saline <strong>and</strong> silicone implants,’<br />
says Dr Moore.<br />
With so many choices in terms of implant size, shape <strong>and</strong><br />
material, an experienced surgeon can help guide women as<br />
to the best breast to enhance their body. ‘It comes down<br />
to the proportions of the figure <strong>and</strong> the desired result of<br />
each patient,’ he explains.<br />
Breast augmentation has one of the highest patient<br />
satisfaction rates, <strong>and</strong> these days it offers more naturallooking<br />
results than ever before.<br />
‘Importantly, technological advancements to the implants<br />
themselves have also meant the procedure offers greater<br />
long-term safety <strong>and</strong> patient peace of mind,’ Dr Moore<br />
concludes. csbm<br />
1<br />
BEFORE<br />
AFTER breast augmentation by Dr Moore<br />
2<br />
BEFORE<br />
AFTER breast augmentation by Dr Moore<br />
3<br />
BEFORE (exisiting scar on left breast)<br />
AFTER breast augmentation by Dr Moore<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 113
easts<br />
results<br />
Canberra plastic surgeon<br />
Dr Ross Farhadieh shares his<br />
experience using Silimed implants<br />
to achieve optimal results in<br />
breast augmenTATIOn. Caitlin<br />
Bishop repORTS.<br />
There are a number of measures that can help reduce<br />
the risks associated with breast augmentation.<br />
Selecting the most suitable size, shape <strong>and</strong> type<br />
of implant is foremost in creating the desired result <strong>and</strong><br />
minimising complications following surgery.<br />
Silimed implants, distributed in Australian by<br />
Device Technologies, are designed to counter the risk<br />
of capsular contracture – one of the most common<br />
complications in breast implant surgery.<br />
Capsular contracture involves the hardening <strong>and</strong><br />
distortion of breast implants following insertion. It occurs<br />
when the scar tissue surrounding the implant begins<br />
to contract, squashing the implant <strong>and</strong> causing varying<br />
degrees of distortion.<br />
Silimed implants use a textured or polyurethane-foam<br />
coating to prevent the alignment of collagen fibre in the<br />
scar tissue. This helps inhibit contraction <strong>and</strong> lowers the<br />
risk of complication following surgery.<br />
Canberra plastic surgeon Dr Ross Farhadieh has<br />
been using Silimed implants for the past 12 months.<br />
He is internationally recognised for his contributions<br />
in multiple scientific <strong>and</strong> clinical journals, including<br />
international plastic surgery textbooks on breast<br />
augmentation, <strong>and</strong> believes the Silimed range affords<br />
a viable option in reducing the risk of complications in<br />
breast augmentation.<br />
‘The st<strong>and</strong>ard Silimed implant range is comparable<br />
with any of the other higher end suppliers,’ he says.<br />
‘Other implant shapes are provided across the range<br />
with the intent of addressing issues such as obviating<br />
the need for mastopexy in mild cases.’<br />
Silimed breast implants are available in a selection<br />
of shapes: round, anatomical (teardrop) or conical. The<br />
114 www.cosbeauty.com.au
easts<br />
implants are fi lled with soft, cohesive silicone gel, which<br />
help create a more natural look <strong>and</strong> feel following breast<br />
implant surgery.<br />
According to Dr Farhadieh, the polyurethane foam<br />
coating also assists in implant adherence to surrounding<br />
tissue, ‘making it less prone to rotation <strong>and</strong> subsequent<br />
malpositioning, which is a well known complication with<br />
anatomical shaped implants’.<br />
Because of the benefi ts associated with Silimed implants,<br />
Dr Farhadieh commonly uses the implants in revision<br />
surgery. ‘Suffi ce to say, polyurethane coated implants have<br />
their best place in revisional surgery,’ he explains. ‘This<br />
is especially the case if a capsular contracture has been<br />
present, or in implant-based breast reconstructions.’<br />
While Silimed implants go a long way in reducing the<br />
chances of complication following surgery, there are a<br />
number of additional factors that help achieve the best<br />
results in breast augmentation.<br />
Patient preparation before surgery, a thorough<br />
consultation process <strong>and</strong> certain precautions during<br />
recovery are all essential in gaining the desired result. For<br />
this reason, Dr Farhadieh takes an individualised approach<br />
with all his patients, undertaking an extensive consultation<br />
process before undertaking the operation. ‘A consultation<br />
is more like an informal chat, for patients to get to know you<br />
<strong>and</strong> you to get to know them,’ Dr Farhadieh explains.<br />
‘Most patients are well informed <strong>and</strong>, although part of<br />
the consultation is to convey information as well as physical<br />
examination, the most important part is communication.<br />
Listening to the patient’s expectations <strong>and</strong> needs is the<br />
most important, if not the most basic, part of the art of<br />
medicine,’ he concludes. csbm<br />
P-URE implants<br />
Breast augmentation continues to be the most<br />
popular cosmetic surgical procedure for women,<br />
<strong>and</strong> implant choice remains a key deciding factor in<br />
achieving optimum results. So how has the introduction<br />
of polyurethane foam-coated implants changed the<br />
breast augmentation procedure?<br />
The Silimed P-URE implant was developed in Brazil.<br />
What makes this implant different is that the soft cohesive<br />
silicone gel is covered with a layer of polyurethane (PU)<br />
foam. The advantage comes from the modifi cation in the<br />
body’s response to the implant, with native breast tissue<br />
interfacing with the implant surface. The polyurethane<br />
foam becomes part of the capsule, which stabilises<br />
the implant with scaffolding which the natural collagen<br />
fi bres wrap themselves around. The implant is therefore<br />
secured in place with a Velcro-like grip.<br />
According to evidence accumulated from more<br />
than 40 years of use overseas, polyurethane coated<br />
implants have a proven excellent safety record. The<br />
main advantage is the reduced risk of two of the most<br />
common concerns involving breast augmentation<br />
procedures, which surgeons <strong>and</strong> manufacturers alike<br />
have sought to reduce for years: capsular contracture,<br />
or capsule hardening, <strong>and</strong> displacement.<br />
Scientifi c evidence suggests the Silimed P-URE<br />
implant minimises the risk of capsular contracture,<br />
rotation <strong>and</strong> displacement, <strong>and</strong> with overall less<br />
complications. Published studies show the rate of<br />
capsular contracture – or hardening <strong>and</strong> distortion of the<br />
implant in the chest – at up to 10 years after surgery was<br />
reduced from around 10 per cent with other implants to<br />
about one percent with the polyurethane coated implant.<br />
Movement or displacement, where the implant<br />
rotates or migrates south, can result in sagging, rippling<br />
or wrinkling of the implant surface. This can also cause<br />
aesthetic problems if an anatomical, or teardrop-shaped,<br />
implant ends up upside down.<br />
Many surgeons believe polyurethane foam-coated<br />
implants have revolutionised the breast augmentation<br />
procedure, offering a signifi cantly lower risk of capsular<br />
contracture <strong>and</strong> other common risks associated with<br />
breast implant surgery.<br />
Examples of Silimed breast implants<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 115
ody<br />
Post-baby<br />
tummy tuck<br />
Sydney plastic surgeon<br />
Dr Pouria Moradi says<br />
abdominoplasty offers an<br />
effecive option in toning<br />
<strong>and</strong> tightening the<br />
tummy after childbirth.<br />
Caitlin Bishop reports.<br />
Sometimes no matter the dedication, consistency <strong>and</strong><br />
motivation behind your fitness regime, abdominal fat<br />
can be frustratingly difficult to conquer. Particularly<br />
after childbirth, which causes the abdominal muscles to<br />
separate, that desirable toned, tight <strong>and</strong> flat abdomen can<br />
prove elusive.<br />
Sydney plastic surgeon Dr Pouria Moradi says a ‘tummy<br />
tuck’, or abdominoplasty, is a viable option in removing<br />
excess skin <strong>and</strong> fat from the lower abdomen, <strong>and</strong> tightening<br />
the muscles within the stomach wall.<br />
‘Patients who have lost considerable weight or are<br />
finding it difficult to flatten their stomach after childbirth<br />
are ideal c<strong>and</strong>idates for a tummy tuck procedure,’ Dr<br />
Moradi explains. ‘The operation should not be seen as an<br />
alternative to weight loss, but it does create a smoother <strong>and</strong><br />
firmer abdominal contour.’<br />
Dr Moradi performs two types of abdominoplasty<br />
procedures. A st<strong>and</strong>ard tummy tuck where the incision,<br />
<strong>and</strong> final scar, stems from hip to hip just above the pubic<br />
region. During this procedure, the abdominal skin is lifted<br />
up to expose the underlying musculature. The abdominal<br />
muscles are then repositioned with sutures, <strong>and</strong> the<br />
excess skin <strong>and</strong> fat of the lower abdomen is removed. The<br />
st<strong>and</strong>ard abdominoplasty operation involves the recreation<br />
of the belly button, which is placed in a more youthful <strong>and</strong><br />
aesthetically pleasing position.<br />
Alternatively, for those patients not needing such an<br />
extensive reduction, the ‘mini’ abdominoplasty can be a<br />
more suitable option. In this, both the incision <strong>and</strong> extent of<br />
dissection is smaller than the st<strong>and</strong>ard procedure, but the<br />
excess skin <strong>and</strong> fat are still effectively removed.<br />
Patients who have lost a lot of<br />
weight or are finding it difficult<br />
to flatten their stomach after<br />
childbirth are ideal c<strong>and</strong>idates<br />
‘Some patients, such as thin women who have had<br />
multiple births, are more suited to a mini abdominoplasty,’<br />
Dr Moradi explains. ‘The belly button does not need<br />
repositioning <strong>and</strong> the resulting scar is similar to a caesarean<br />
scar – it does not extend to the hip bones.’<br />
In both procedures, Dr Moradi also typically performs<br />
liposuction to smooth the abdominal contour <strong>and</strong> better<br />
refine the shape of the hips <strong>and</strong> flanks.<br />
116 www.cosbeauty.com.au
ody<br />
A tummy tuck can also be combined with other<br />
procedures, for example, breast augmentation, labiaplasty,<br />
or a thigh or arm lift for all-over rejuvenation.<br />
Prior to surgery, Dr Moradi conducts a lengthy<br />
consultation with all his patients to discuss their<br />
expectations <strong>and</strong> concerns going into surgery. ‘The first<br />
step is establishing a great rapport between the patient <strong>and</strong><br />
surgeon <strong>and</strong> to start an honest <strong>and</strong> open dialogue about<br />
the goals of the patient,’ he says. ‘Ultimately, the final goal<br />
is to create a more proportionate silhouette <strong>and</strong> I often use<br />
3D digital imaging tools to provide a realistic picture of what<br />
the final result will be.’<br />
This consultation process is followed by a pre-surgery<br />
visit, where Dr Moradi explains how the procedure is<br />
performed <strong>and</strong> prepares the patient for the post-operative<br />
recovery period.<br />
‘Abdominoplasty is performed under general anaesthetic<br />
<strong>and</strong> typically involves a one to three night hospital stay,’<br />
he explains. ‘Usually, patients are off work for two to four<br />
weeks following surgery.’<br />
It is common to experience a sensation of tightness<br />
following abdominoplasty, which can sometimes cause<br />
difficulty in bending <strong>and</strong> other movements. Dr Moradi<br />
explains patients should avoid heavy lifting during the<br />
recovery period, but can resume regular activity around six<br />
weeks post-operatively.<br />
‘Patients won’t be able to lift anything heavy for the first<br />
six weeks after surgery, but then they can return to normal<br />
activities, completely unrestricted,’ Dr Moradi explains.<br />
‘Most women actually feel stronger when they go to the<br />
gym after a tummy tuck, because the core muscles have<br />
been tightened.’<br />
Like any surgery, abdominoplasty comes with certain<br />
risks <strong>and</strong> complications, which means it is especially<br />
important for patients to choose a skilled surgeon with<br />
extensive experience.<br />
According to Dr Moradi, detailed pre-operative<br />
assessment, thorough surgical planning <strong>and</strong> diligent postoperative<br />
care can go great lengths in ensuring a smooth<br />
<strong>and</strong> successful recovery, with optimum results.<br />
‘I devise a pre-operative plan for each of my patients<br />
to optimise their health <strong>and</strong> healing capacity,’ he explains.<br />
‘We look at what medications or over-the-counter vitamins<br />
they are taking, <strong>and</strong> get their blood pressure under control<br />
if necessary. It’s also essential patients stop smoking well<br />
in advance of their operation.’<br />
Following surgery, compression body garments are<br />
worn during recovery to accelerate healing <strong>and</strong> help redrape<br />
the skin more evenly over the body’s newly defined<br />
contours. csbm<br />
Case Study<br />
This patient, a 55-year-old mother of three,<br />
approached Dr Moradi hoping to flatten her stomach.<br />
No matter how much core strengthening work she<br />
did, she couldn’t tighten her stomach because of the<br />
muscle separation resulting from childbirth.<br />
She underwent a mini-abdominoplasty with<br />
liposuction, <strong>and</strong> the incision only added a small<br />
extension to her previous caesarean scar. She was<br />
able to return home two days after the operation.<br />
The post-operative photographs show a flattened<br />
stomach, even when the patient is leaning all the way<br />
forward. Notably, she reports increased core strength<br />
during exercise after her tummy tuck operation.<br />
BEFORES AND AFTERS<br />
BEFORE<br />
Photos taken from 3D images of real before <strong>and</strong> after photos.<br />
BEFORE<br />
AFTER abdominoplasty by Dr Moradi<br />
AFTER abdominoplasty by Dr Moradi<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 117
ody<br />
The<br />
‘Western Society’<br />
Syndrome<br />
Sydney cosmetic surgeon, anti-ageing <strong>and</strong> regenerative practitioner<br />
Dr Joseph Georghy has developed a new treatment approach for<br />
Metabolic Syndrome, a complex medical condition also known as the<br />
‘Western Society’ syndrome.<br />
Metabolic syndrome is a medical condition that<br />
usually affects middle-aged men, but it can start at<br />
any time. It is characterised with central abdominal<br />
adiposity, or a growing waistline, occasionally forming an<br />
apron-like fold over the abdomen.<br />
Abdominal adiposity is also called visceral fat, which lies<br />
deep within the abdominal cavity <strong>and</strong> pads, the internal<br />
abdominal walls, <strong>and</strong> the attachments of the organs<br />
(particularly the small <strong>and</strong> large bowel). This internal fat, also<br />
known as white fat, is considered to be mainly responsible<br />
for the metabolic effects on insulin resistance (IR), cardiometabolic<br />
syndrome, type 2 diabetes, hypertension,<br />
depression, Vitamin D deficiency, partial <strong>and</strong>rogen<br />
deficiency in males (PADM), dyslipidaemia, osteoporosis,<br />
cognitive decline, erectile dysfunction, sleep apnoea,<br />
general cancer risk (breast, colon, prostate), kidney disease<br />
<strong>and</strong> kidney failure, <strong>and</strong> probably much more.<br />
Unfortunately, many young men are not recognised<br />
with metabolic syndrome <strong>and</strong> some are misdiagnosed <strong>and</strong><br />
treated for depression instead.<br />
What is insulin resistance?<br />
Insulin resistance (IR) is usually defined as a state<br />
characterised by the reduced glucose-lowering activity of<br />
insulin, but it can also be used as a shorth<strong>and</strong> label for a<br />
clinical syndrome encompassing significant pathologies of<br />
metabolic syndrome. Insulin is a gene expression modulator<br />
involved in many biochemical processes in the body.<br />
Failure to diagnose IR in the younger population has<br />
a possible association with abdominal obesity (cardio<br />
metabolic syndrome is present in 6.7 percent of people<br />
aged 20 to 29 years <strong>and</strong> is increasing every year).<br />
How does metabolic syndrome<br />
develop?<br />
I believe low testosterone, low Vitamin D, low serotonin<br />
levels, lack of exercise, increased food intake (particularly<br />
carbohydrates <strong>and</strong> phytoestrogens) <strong>and</strong> family propensity<br />
to consume excess calories may trigger a cascade of<br />
effects leading to metabolic syndrome. It can start at any<br />
time, even in teenagers, but the risk factor increases with<br />
age <strong>and</strong> it is more prevalent in the ageing population.<br />
Metabolic syndrome can be treated. An experienced<br />
medical practitioner can diagnose <strong>and</strong> treat the condition<br />
early with an integrative medical approach, including:<br />
• Lifestyle interventions (low GI Mediterranean diet,<br />
exercise, socialising, stress management)<br />
118 www.cosbeauty.com.au
ody<br />
• Macro- <strong>and</strong> micro-nutritional management (green<br />
tea, cinnamon, fenugreek, Banaba, fish oil, Boswelia,<br />
Curcumin, Ubiquinol)<br />
• Supplementation (Vitamin D, Q-10 (in the form of<br />
Ubiquinol), Alpha Lipoic Acid)<br />
• 5-hydroxytryptophan (5-HTP) therapy. Researchers have<br />
found 5-HTP make people feel more full after eating, so<br />
they ate less. Since serotonin helps regulate mood <strong>and</strong><br />
behaviour, 5-HTP may have a positive effect on sleep,<br />
mood, anxiety, appetite <strong>and</strong> pain sensation.<br />
• Lipostructure of fat deposits<br />
• PhotoDynamic HelioTherm to treat internal white fat<br />
deposits (thermogenic effect) <strong>and</strong><br />
probably much more.<br />
The combination of lifestyle<br />
modification, lipostructure <strong>and</strong><br />
PhotoDynamic HelioTherm therapy is a<br />
new advancement in the treatment of<br />
metabolic syndrome. In my experience,<br />
it is painless, there is no downtime<br />
(literally walk in, walk out), provides an<br />
excellent skin retraction (particularly if<br />
combined with MiroPen microneedling<br />
<strong>and</strong> platelet-rich plasma (PRP) therapy).<br />
The results can be permanent,<br />
provided the patient eats sensibly,<br />
exercises regularly <strong>and</strong> takes<br />
supplements <strong>and</strong> prescribed<br />
medications. Most patients are very<br />
satisfied with the results. They feel more<br />
comfortable in a wide variety of clothes<br />
<strong>and</strong> more at ease with their bodies.<br />
As long as a patient’s expectations<br />
are realistic, they should be happy with<br />
their new shape.<br />
What is the future?<br />
BioRestorative Therapies Inc, a<br />
stem cell biotechnology company, is<br />
advancing its ThermoStem Program,<br />
designed to develop treatments using<br />
brown fat stem cells for metabolic<br />
disorders <strong>and</strong> obesity, focusing on<br />
potentially preventing the onset of type<br />
2 diabetes.<br />
The ThermoStem Program is based<br />
on pre-clinical research that increased<br />
amounts of brown fat in the body may<br />
be responsible for additional caloric<br />
burning <strong>and</strong> reduced glucose <strong>and</strong><br />
lipid levels. Potential use may include<br />
inducing weight loss (a ‘biologic diet’) <strong>and</strong> the reduction of<br />
glucose <strong>and</strong> lipids – perhaps even leading to delaying or<br />
preventing the onset of type 2 diabetes.<br />
I believe that lifestyle modification, lipostructure (to<br />
selected fat deposits), PhotoDynamic HelioTherm (lipolysis<br />
<strong>and</strong> skin tightening) <strong>and</strong> adopting the ThermoStem<br />
Program (using brown fat stem cells) is the future treatment<br />
in managing metabolic syndrome. csbm<br />
Declaration of interest: The author is a designer <strong>and</strong> investor of<br />
PhotoDynamic HelioTherm Therapy <strong>and</strong> investor in BioRestorative<br />
Therapies - ThermoStem Program (Brown Fat Stem Cells).<br />
Six months after BioRestorative ThermoStem Program by<br />
Dr Georghy<br />
Six months after BioRestorative ThermoStem Program by<br />
Dr Georghy<br />
Six months after BioRestorative ThermoStem Program by<br />
Dr Georghy<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 119
intimate surgery<br />
Your<br />
body,<br />
your<br />
choice<br />
women seek genital surgery for numerous reasons, <strong>and</strong> these<br />
are often overlooked in mainstream media, says Adelaide pelvic<br />
reconstructive surgeon Dr Oseka Onuma.<br />
Recently there has been a lot of negative talk in<br />
mainstream media about the rising popularity of<br />
the ‘designer vagina’. While such coverage may go<br />
some way in increasing public education <strong>and</strong> awareness of<br />
genital surgery options available to women, it does nothing<br />
to remove the stigma of these procedures.<br />
The number of women who appear to be patronised<br />
by mainstream media <strong>and</strong> even by some members of the<br />
medical community when seeking help is disappointing.<br />
Comments that have been reported to me range from<br />
‘Only strippers need that’ to ‘It’s all part of being a woman’.<br />
When one considers that seeking help with labial issues is<br />
embarrassing to most women, to be treated with such lack<br />
of empathy means that many women never seek help for<br />
the problem again.<br />
The vast majority of my patients seeking vaginal<br />
rejuvenation are not motivated by the so-called ‘porn<br />
aesthetic’ as touted by many women’s magazines but<br />
a growing dislike of pain during intercourse or labial<br />
discomfort when participating in everyday activities.<br />
Some women live with the discomfort of oversized labia<br />
for many years <strong>and</strong> adopt strategies to reduce discomfort<br />
such as wearing loose clothing. A significant number of<br />
women who come to see me for a labiaplasty say they<br />
have only recently become aware they can actually have<br />
something done to improve their situation.<br />
Few women find it easy to talk to strangers, doctors or<br />
friends about a loose vagina, labial discomfort or lack of<br />
vaginal sensation. These issues, however, need to be raised<br />
<strong>and</strong> explored in order to provide the options for improving<br />
quality of life.<br />
As women become more aware that it is possible to<br />
correct potentially embarrassing problems, there is a<br />
growing dem<strong>and</strong> for female genital surgery procedures.<br />
They can increase a woman’s confidence in herself <strong>and</strong> her<br />
relationships, as well as her overall quality of life.<br />
These days women are less willing to accept changes<br />
in genital anatomy resulting from pregnancy, childbirth<br />
<strong>and</strong> ageing. They are less likely to have the attitude ‘it’s<br />
just part of being a woman’. Providing knowledge, choices<br />
<strong>and</strong> alternatives is an essential part of delivering a quality<br />
medical service to improve the quality of life <strong>and</strong> function<br />
of each patient.<br />
It is important to listen to the concerns of the individual<br />
patient, assess them with examination to establish a<br />
diagnosis <strong>and</strong> then offer a series of potential solutions<br />
with detailed discussion about how each approach might<br />
impact positively or negatively if adopted.<br />
120 www.cosbeauty.com.au
What problems can be treated?<br />
The kinds of problems are as varied as the women who<br />
suffer from them. They include protrusions or a lump within<br />
the vagina, scar tissue, discomfort, or sagging at the<br />
entrance to the vagina.<br />
Oversized, elongated or asymmetrical labia minora,<br />
the inner vaginal lips which surround the entrance to the<br />
vagina, can cause irritation <strong>and</strong> discomfort when wearing<br />
certain clothes or doing things such as bicycle <strong>and</strong> horse<br />
riding or during sexual intercourse.<br />
In addition, loose or weak vaginal muscles, mainly<br />
caused through the muscles stretching during childbirth,<br />
can cause problems for some women <strong>and</strong> their sexual<br />
partners during intercourse.<br />
Another problem may be female stress urinary<br />
incontinence, caused predominantly by an improperly<br />
functioning urethra. When a woman suffers from stress<br />
urinary incontinence, weakened muscle <strong>and</strong> pelvic tissue<br />
do not support the urethra adequately. As a result, the<br />
urethra doesn’t maintain a tight seal during exercise or<br />
other movement such as coughing or laughing, <strong>and</strong> urine<br />
invariably escapes.<br />
There is now a range of surgical options available that<br />
can address <strong>and</strong> hopefully resolve these problems. Laser<br />
reduction labioplasty can sculpt the elongated or unequal<br />
labial minora as desired.<br />
Labioplasty techniques can also reconstruct conditions<br />
that are a result of the ageing process, childbirth trauma or<br />
injury. The procedure can provide a youthful <strong>and</strong> aesthetically<br />
appealing vulva. The vulvar structures (including the labia<br />
minora, labia majora, mons pubis, perineum, entrance to<br />
the vagina <strong>and</strong> hymen) can be surgically enhanced, both<br />
functionally <strong>and</strong> aesthetically.<br />
Laser vaginal rejuvenation can effectively enhance<br />
vaginal muscle tone, strength <strong>and</strong> control. In my experience,<br />
laser techniques enhance precision-reliant procedures with<br />
controlled accuracy <strong>and</strong> result in rapid healing, less pain<br />
<strong>and</strong> faster recovery.<br />
The tensionless vaginal tape, or TVT sling, is a minimally<br />
invasive procedure during which a Prolene tape sling<br />
is inserted to correct stress urinary incontinence. ‘The<br />
Prolene mesh is inserted through the vagina <strong>and</strong> positioned<br />
underneath the urethra, creating a supportive sling, which<br />
is held in place by surrounding tissues rather than sutured<br />
into position. During movement or exercise, the mesh<br />
supports the urethra, allowing it to maintain its seal to<br />
prevent urine loss.<br />
All women are born with differently shaped genitalia, <strong>and</strong><br />
with the effects of childbirth <strong>and</strong> age, many can suffer from<br />
problems with their genitalia that can make them feel very<br />
self-conscious <strong>and</strong> unhappy, often affecting relationships<br />
with sexual partners. Changes to her external genital<br />
structures can help restore a woman’s self-image <strong>and</strong><br />
esteem. csbm<br />
feature<br />
Laser Vaginal<br />
Rejuvenation TM<br />
SPECIALISING IN<br />
• Aesthetic <strong>and</strong> functional<br />
labial surgery<br />
• Curing urinary incontinence<br />
• Restoring pelvic support<br />
• Enhancing sexual gratification<br />
• Resolving menstrual dysfunction<br />
OUR MISSION<br />
To empower women<br />
with knowledge, choice<br />
<strong>and</strong> alternatives<br />
Dr Oseka Onuma<br />
BSc MJur MBBS FRCOG<br />
FRANZCOG<br />
Gynaecologist &<br />
Pelvic Reconstructive Surgeon<br />
Laser Vaginal Rejuvenation<br />
Institute of Adelaide<br />
Robe Terrace Specialist Centre Suite<br />
4 Robe Terrace, Medindie<br />
South Australia 5081<br />
Phone 08 8344 6085<br />
Facsimile 08 8344 6087<br />
Email rooms@dronuma.com<br />
www.dronuma.com<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 121
intimate surgery<br />
Private matters<br />
intimate surgery is FAST gaining popularity among<br />
women in Australia, according to Sydney cosmetic<br />
surgeon Dr Colin Moore. Tara Casey reports.<br />
S<br />
Page 1<br />
GEMENT<br />
idening<br />
ds<br />
tomy Reversal<br />
ry<br />
(Lyn)<br />
.com<br />
OORE<br />
Vaginal abnormalities can often inhibit a woman’s selfconfidence<br />
<strong>and</strong> sexual satisfaction <strong>and</strong>, left untreated,<br />
can result in both physical <strong>and</strong> psychological<br />
concerns. However, there are a number of surgical options<br />
that can alleviate discomfort, pain <strong>and</strong> hygiene issues<br />
relating to the vagina, whilst improving its aesthetics.<br />
‘Women who seek vaginal surgery have often noticed<br />
changes to their vagina after giving birth or as a result of<br />
ageing,’ says Sydney cosmetic surgeon Dr Colin Moore.<br />
‘Stretched muscles <strong>and</strong> skin can change the shape of the<br />
vagina significantly, both internally <strong>and</strong> externally.’<br />
MEN’S & WOMEN’S<br />
<strong>Cosmetic</strong> <strong>Surgery</strong><br />
‘A New You’<br />
• Penis Enlargement – permanent<br />
• Circumcision • Abnormalities (bends)<br />
• Impotence • Vasectomy • Testicular Implants<br />
• Breast Enlargement/Reduction • Tummy Tuck<br />
• Face/Eye Lift • Vaginal <strong>Cosmetic</strong>/Surgical Repairs<br />
EARS EXPERIENCE<br />
B R I S B A N E<br />
ITAL<br />
Y<br />
ent<br />
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THE AUSTRALIAN CENTRE FOR COSMETIC SURGERY<br />
Dr Colin Moore<br />
MBBS, FRCS, FRACS, FACCS<br />
www.drcolinmoore.com.au<br />
To recieve an information pack call Lyn on<br />
0414 251 234 or 1300 malepenissurgery<br />
VISIT THE BEFORE ANd AFTER<br />
pHOTO GALLERY AT<br />
drcolinmoore.com/general/gallery.html<br />
Finance options available<br />
Dr Moore says it’s important in such cases to treat<br />
each patient’s concerns in a holistic manner, tending to<br />
both rough, loosened labial folds through a labiaplasty,<br />
<strong>and</strong> sling muscles through a vaginaplasty. ‘Depending on<br />
the patient’s concerns, I work with them to deicide on the<br />
most appropriate treatment option for vaginal rejuvenation,’<br />
he says.<br />
A vaginaplasty is a day procedure which involves<br />
tightening the sling muscles in the vagina by lifting the<br />
muscles, removing excess vaginal lining <strong>and</strong> reattaching<br />
the muscles. ‘However, it’s important the patient knows<br />
that surgery will not turn back the clock 20 years,’ Dr Moore<br />
cautions. ‘Over-tightening stretched vaginal muscles can<br />
cause muscle cramps <strong>and</strong> spasms during intercourse. This<br />
is where a senior surgeon’s skill <strong>and</strong> experience is essential<br />
in creating optimal outcomes.’<br />
A labiaplasty involves excising <strong>and</strong> sealing excess,<br />
roughened tissue that can cause the labial folds to look<br />
asymmetrical or stretched. ‘Younger patients usually opt<br />
for labiaplasty alone to correct an uneven appearance of<br />
the labial folds,’ says Dr Moore. ‘Essentially, if a roughened<br />
edge is the issue, this needs to be removed. If not, we<br />
slightly reduce the edges of the labia minora back to the<br />
same level as the labia majora, <strong>and</strong> often reduce excess<br />
skin covering the clitoral hood.’<br />
Dr Moore explains that a labiaplasty procedure can<br />
be especially beneficial in improving vaginal hygiene for<br />
some women. ‘With large labia, urine can be trapped,<br />
allowing bacteria from the bowel to migrate <strong>and</strong> colonise<br />
in the urethra,’ he says. ‘This can result in chronic urethral<br />
contamination or even cause infection to be flushed back<br />
into the bladder, causing bladder infections. For many<br />
women, labioplasty can rectify this.’<br />
All of the above procedures, performed individually or<br />
in combination, are usually carried out as day surgery under<br />
general anaesthetic.<br />
As with any surgery, there is an inherent risk of<br />
possible complications, however when performed by an<br />
appropriately trained surgeon in an accredited operating<br />
theatre, these risks are minimal. csbm<br />
122 www.cosbeauty.com.au
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ellafitness<br />
Keep keeping your up appearances<br />
eye on<br />
the prize<br />
want to flaunt a toned <strong>and</strong> terrific bod this summer? here are some<br />
exercise essentials to help get you started. words by Jarrat wood<br />
Some people train for health, some people train for<br />
performance <strong>and</strong> some people train for appearance.<br />
Vanity aside, training for appearance is a realistic<br />
option. Everyone has a body part that they wish was bigger<br />
EASY TIPS TO HELP YOU REACH YOUR<br />
or smaller.<br />
FITNESS GOALS. RUSSELL COX FROM<br />
If you plan to train for appearance then remember some<br />
REGENESIS important health FITNESS <strong>and</strong> safety guidelines: REPORTS.<br />
• Training opposing muscle groups unevenly can lead to<br />
postural <strong>and</strong> functional deficiencies.<br />
• Health should be the number-one priority with an<br />
exercise program <strong>and</strong> all exercise has an element of risk.<br />
The New Year has arrived <strong>and</strong> it’s that time of the year<br />
• There is a limit to how much you can vary your appearance.<br />
when we usually create our goal list for the next 12<br />
Genetics will always be an overriding determinant of<br />
months. No doubt, getting fi t <strong>and</strong> losing weight are on<br />
your appearance.<br />
top of most of people’s lists. You can make it happen – but<br />
determination <strong>and</strong> planning are the key factors to realising<br />
your<br />
The<br />
fi tness<br />
following<br />
goals.<br />
are some ‘cosmetic fitness’ suggestions for<br />
training outdoors as the summer months approach. Break<br />
down your program into body parts: legs, back, chest <strong>and</strong><br />
Set abdominals. realistic goals<br />
First off, setting realistic fi tness goals is of paramount<br />
importance.<br />
Legs: stair<br />
If you<br />
running<br />
push yourself too hard <strong>and</strong> set impossible<br />
goals,<br />
By running<br />
it’s likely<br />
stairs<br />
you’ll<br />
you<br />
get<br />
will<br />
frustrated<br />
pace a<br />
<strong>and</strong><br />
higher<br />
motivation<br />
load on<br />
will<br />
the<br />
be<br />
hamstring,<br />
lost. For example,<br />
gluteal muscles<br />
if you want<br />
<strong>and</strong> calves.<br />
to lose<br />
Making<br />
fi ve kilos<br />
your<br />
in total,<br />
way<br />
focus<br />
back downhill<br />
on losing<br />
slowly<br />
a kilo a<br />
will<br />
month<br />
load<br />
is<br />
the<br />
a<br />
quadriceps<br />
much more<br />
ensuring<br />
attainable<br />
an<br />
<strong>and</strong><br />
all-round<br />
realistic<br />
leg<br />
goal.<br />
workout.<br />
Be aware<br />
Try doing<br />
that<br />
normal<br />
it takes<br />
running<br />
a while<br />
or<br />
for<br />
walking<br />
your<br />
body<br />
intervals<br />
to gel<br />
with<br />
with<br />
some<br />
your<br />
variations<br />
new lifestyle.<br />
as you<br />
Training<br />
advance.<br />
can be tough<br />
in the beginning, but after a while exercise <strong>and</strong> adopting<br />
healthier Back: lifestyle reverse choices flyes become habit <strong>and</strong> the results<br />
start It’s difficult to show. to train your back without heading to the gym,<br />
but to add some definition to your trapezius <strong>and</strong> rhomboids<br />
(the major muscles between your shoulder blades) try a<br />
Enjoy reverse fly yourself! <strong>and</strong> extension.<br />
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when training outdoors. Place your h<strong>and</strong>s shoulder width<br />
or slightly wider with your wrists slightly above the nipple<br />
line but below your shoulders. If you wish to focus more on<br />
your chest muscles, place your h<strong>and</strong>s a little wider <strong>and</strong> move<br />
your elbows away from the body as you lower yourself.<br />
To focus more on the triceps bring your h<strong>and</strong>s a little<br />
closer to your body <strong>and</strong> keep your elbows close to your body<br />
as you lower yourself to the ground. Beginners should try<br />
push-ups from the knees. If this is too difficult try push ups<br />
you’ll be able to see what training you enjoy most <strong>and</strong><br />
on a raised bench with feet on the floor or against a wall<br />
create your own bespoke exercise routine.<br />
(the more upright you are the easier the push up will be.<br />
Advanced trainers should try a full length push up raising<br />
one leg in the air to increase the load on the upper body.<br />
Get the know-how<br />
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skin<br />
anti ageing<br />
Light-Based<br />
Rejuvenation<br />
The Icon Aesthetic System from Cynosure takes light-based therapies<br />
to the next level. Caitlin Bishop repoRTS.<br />
The Icon Aesthetic System by CynoSure signifies the<br />
next generation in fractional, light-based cosmetic<br />
therapies. Delivering both intense pulsed light (IPL)<br />
<strong>and</strong> laser light, the Icon System can be used to treat a<br />
number of aesthetic <strong>and</strong> anti-ageing concerns – from laser<br />
skin resurfacing <strong>and</strong> wrinkle reduction to hair removal <strong>and</strong><br />
pigment clearance.<br />
Perth dermatologist Dr Rol<strong>and</strong> Br<strong>and</strong> has been using the<br />
Icon System for two years. He explains its adaptable nature<br />
means it can treat a number of different skin concerns.<br />
‘The Icon Aesthetic is most suited to patients with sun<br />
damage, premature ageing, rosacea <strong>and</strong> scarring,’ Dr<br />
Br<strong>and</strong> says. ‘It can also be used for paediatric patients with<br />
birthmarks such as port wine stains. The Icon System can<br />
also be used for the improvement of stretch marks, which<br />
can usually occur after pregnancy.’<br />
Sydney dermatologist Dr Robert McDonald uses the<br />
Icon System for fractional laser treatment of photoaged <strong>and</strong><br />
sun-damaged skin, <strong>and</strong> to treat scars from acne, trauma<br />
or surgery.<br />
‘Fractional lasers divide the laser beam into smaller<br />
“microbeams”, which interact with the skin to produce<br />
columns of thermal injury,’ Dr McDonald explains. ‘The<br />
skin around the columns provides a scaffolding for rapid<br />
healing. This technology stimulates new collagen <strong>and</strong><br />
elastin synthesis <strong>and</strong> is used to rejuvenate skin by improving<br />
texture <strong>and</strong> tone.’<br />
Both effectiveness <strong>and</strong> patient comfort has been<br />
optimised with the Icon System. It uses the maximum,<br />
effective energy <strong>and</strong> includes an in-built contact cooling<br />
system for enhanced comfort <strong>and</strong> epidermal protection. The<br />
most revolutionary feature is the Skintel Melanin Reader – a<br />
device that determines the average melanin density of skin<br />
prior to treatment. This further helps protect against postinflammatory<br />
hyperpigmentation <strong>and</strong> other complications.<br />
‘The Skintel Reader is an important guidance tool for the<br />
clinician as it measures the Melanin Index from a specific<br />
area of the patient’s skin <strong>and</strong> then recommends a safe <strong>and</strong><br />
accurate dose range for a particular treatment parameter,’<br />
Dr Br<strong>and</strong> explains. ‘It is individualised for that patient, based<br />
on his or her skin type <strong>and</strong> current amount of melanin<br />
pigment present at the time of treatment.’<br />
Treatment with the Icon System depends on the type of<br />
headpiece selected – IPL or laser – <strong>and</strong> the concern being<br />
addressed. Topical anaesthesia may be required for certain<br />
laser treatments, <strong>and</strong> Dr Br<strong>and</strong> explains the downtime will<br />
vary between procedures.<br />
The Icon Aesthetic stimulates<br />
new collagen <strong>and</strong> elastin<br />
synthesis, rejuvenating skin by<br />
improving texture <strong>and</strong> tone<br />
‘The downtime is usually minimal; ranging from a few<br />
hours to a few days of some redness <strong>and</strong> swelling,’ he says.<br />
‘The areas treated for pigmentation can get temporarily<br />
darker for around seven to 10 days after treatment, <strong>and</strong><br />
then fade after the top treated skin layer peels off. ‘<br />
Being such a versatile device, Dr Br<strong>and</strong> says the<br />
Icon Aesthetic System generates effective results in<br />
every capacity. ‘In most cases, with IPL for vascular <strong>and</strong><br />
pigmentation, the results are evident almost immediately,<br />
with each subsequent treatment giving better clearance<br />
<strong>and</strong> improvement,’ he explains.<br />
‘Fractionated laser treatments for scarring, skin<br />
rejuvenation, <strong>and</strong> skin resurfacing, take longer to generate<br />
results (between two <strong>and</strong> six months), as it takes time for<br />
collagen to rejuvenate within the dermis.’<br />
‘I have seen excellent results using the Icon Aesthetic<br />
System for a number of skin indications,’ Dr Br<strong>and</strong><br />
concludes. csbm<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 125
feature<br />
Light show<br />
Your backstage<br />
guide to laser<br />
<strong>and</strong> IPL therapy<br />
126 www.cosbeauty.com.au
feature<br />
Laser <strong>and</strong> light-based technologies have fast become go-to<br />
treatments for skin rejuvenation <strong>and</strong> cosmetic enhancement. We shed<br />
light on this ever-growing market, how they work <strong>and</strong> what they<br />
treat. AimÉe Surtenich reports.<br />
anti ageing<br />
The healing power of light has been recognised <strong>and</strong><br />
used for thous<strong>and</strong>s of years, dating back to the<br />
Ancient Greeks <strong>and</strong> Romans. Over the millennia,<br />
our underst<strong>and</strong>ing <strong>and</strong> use of light-based therapies have<br />
continually evolved to optimise results, reduce downtime<br />
<strong>and</strong> treat a wide range of skin conditions <strong>and</strong> ageing<br />
concerns. For cosmetic indications – from treating wrinkles,<br />
pigmentation <strong>and</strong> stretch marks to scars, tattoo removal<br />
<strong>and</strong> hair reduction – light-based treatments can be broadly<br />
categorised as laser, IPL, LED <strong>and</strong> photodynamic therapy.<br />
What is a laser?<br />
In 1917 Albert Einstein theorised on the stimulated emission<br />
of radiation, or what we commonly refer to as lasers. Today<br />
lasers are used in a multitude of products <strong>and</strong> systems –<br />
from CD players to barcode scanners. Laser is an acronym<br />
for Light Amplification for the Stimulated Emission of<br />
Radiation <strong>and</strong> is used in the cosmetic enhancement <strong>and</strong><br />
beauty industries for an array of treatments, ranging from<br />
the correction of skin irregularities, pigmentation <strong>and</strong><br />
wrinkles to hair reduction <strong>and</strong> tattoo removal.<br />
Lasers work by selecting a wavelength that is readily<br />
absorbed by the target tissue. The target tissue is heated<br />
to a temperature high enough to destroy it without<br />
damaging the adjacent normal tissue. The laser emits a<br />
single frequency of light with all the lightwaves going in the<br />
same direction, allowing the target tissue to absorb the<br />
maximum amount of heat. The target tissue is all-important<br />
when treating skin problems with a laser: for pigmentation<br />
it is melanin; for spider veins it is blood; <strong>and</strong> for wrinkles it<br />
is water. Each of these target tissues absorbs a different<br />
wavelength of light, meaning a different laser is needed for<br />
each specific problem.<br />
So why does absorbing light treat a problem? The light<br />
energy is transformed into heat energy. This energy heats<br />
the chromophore <strong>and</strong> causes damage. In the case of hair<br />
removal, it heats up the hair follicle to a critical temperature<br />
that causes irreversible damage to the hair follicle <strong>and</strong><br />
only the hair follicle. Surrounding structures will be heated<br />
but not to a level where they are irreversibly damaged,<br />
otherwise blistering will appear.<br />
For blood vessels, the haemoglobin is targeted by green<br />
or yellow light as these wavelengths are predominantly<br />
absorbed by blood. The heat causes clotting, coagulation<br />
<strong>and</strong> the closing down of small vessels. For resurfacing the<br />
skin, the target tissue is water. The laser delivers enough<br />
energy to heat the water in skin, vaporising it <strong>and</strong> in turn<br />
vaporising skin tissue. Similarly, with each treatment the<br />
heat causes damage of the target tissue, creating the<br />
desired result.<br />
However, without energy (measured in watts) to deliver<br />
the wavelength nothing will happen. More energy increases<br />
the heat <strong>and</strong> damage, so there is a trade-off.<br />
One of the special qualities of laser light is its ability<br />
to be pulsed. Often the beam can target the chromophore<br />
for long enough to heat it, stopping before surrounding<br />
tissues absorb too much of the light, then this process<br />
is repeated. The duration of pulse is proportionate to the<br />
size of the target.<br />
The main differences between lasers have to do with<br />
the wavelength of the light emitted by the device. What<br />
you need to know is that different laser wavelengths –<br />
which equate to different colours of light – can target<br />
different concerns.<br />
Many different materials may be used as the laser<br />
medium, <strong>and</strong> the laser type, is commonly known by the<br />
particular medium used. For example, lasers used in<br />
cosmetic procedures frequently include carbon dioxide<br />
(gas), dye (liquid) or Neodymium:yag (solid).<br />
Each medium produces light of a particular wavelength<br />
or, in terms of visible light, colour. The entire range of<br />
potential colours, from ultraviolet to radio waves, is known<br />
as the electromagnetic spectrum.<br />
It is important to note that the ‘yag’ in many laser<br />
types describes not the lasing medium, but the matrix of<br />
Yttrium Aluminium Garnet in which the lasing atoms are<br />
held. This is a clear, glass-like material that is transparent<br />
to visible <strong>and</strong> near-infrared wavelengths.<br />
Most lasers operate in one of two principal modes. The<br />
first is Continuous Wave (CW), which refers to a laser beam<br />
that is present continuously throughout operation.<br />
The second principal mode is referred to as pulsed<br />
mode, where the laser energy is not continuous but<br />
released entirely over a very short time, such as a millionth<br />
of a second. An example is the Q-switched laser. This<br />
allows for much higher levels of energy to be used than<br />
with CW.<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 127
feature<br />
The beam may also be turned off mechanically or<br />
electronically for brief periods (for example, on for a second,<br />
then off for half a second). This is often called pulsed<br />
CW mode.<br />
When laser light is absorbed by the skin it is converted<br />
to heat, which can result in the burning, vaporisation or<br />
coagulation of the targeted tissue. In this respect, lasers<br />
can be further divided into two basic types: ablative <strong>and</strong><br />
non-ablative.<br />
Because laser treatments use heat, a mild to moderate<br />
burning sensation is experienced during treatment <strong>and</strong> slight<br />
swelling <strong>and</strong> redness afterwards. This can be covered with<br />
makeup <strong>and</strong> normally subsides in a few days, depending<br />
on the level of treatment administered.<br />
Ablative <strong>and</strong> fractionated laser treatments can be<br />
administered only by qualified cosmetic doctors.<br />
Always ask how new the laser is, when it was purchased<br />
<strong>and</strong> when it was last checked by the manufacturer. Recent<br />
models are far superior to earlier ones in terms of achieving<br />
predictable <strong>and</strong> precise results with less downtime.<br />
Ablative lasers<br />
Ablative lasers, notably carbon dioxide (CO 2<br />
) <strong>and</strong><br />
Erbium:YAG, use a process where the upper layers of<br />
aged or damaged skin are vaporised by a deep, single<br />
wavelength of energy to remove <strong>and</strong> resurface the skin,<br />
either superficially or through to the deeper layers.<br />
It is this damage that stimulates the healing <strong>and</strong><br />
restructuring of the skin, resulting in a more even complexion<br />
<strong>and</strong> a significant reduction in lines <strong>and</strong> wrinkles.<br />
These lasers are often used to remove deep lines or<br />
scars as well as to improve overall skin tone <strong>and</strong> texture<br />
<strong>and</strong> typically require only one session.<br />
They do need anaesthetic, or some form of pain<br />
management <strong>and</strong> incur downtime during which the skin will<br />
crust over, shed the scabs <strong>and</strong> fully heal.<br />
The oldest type of ablative laser is the CO 2<br />
laser, which is<br />
still considered by many practitioners as the gold st<strong>and</strong>ard<br />
for dramatic cosmetic improvement.<br />
Carbon dioxide lasers can dramatically reduce wrinkles,<br />
but downtime <strong>and</strong> side effects such as redness <strong>and</strong> peeling<br />
are extended, usually taking many weeks to heal. Erbium<br />
lasers have a great accuracy with fewer side effects but<br />
cannot treat deep wrinkles as successfully.<br />
Non-ablative lasers<br />
Non-ablative lasers use wavelengths which do not burn<br />
away skin <strong>and</strong> are suitable for the treatment of melasma,<br />
scarring, fine lines <strong>and</strong> wrinkles <strong>and</strong> typically do not require<br />
any downtime.<br />
This type of laser does not damage the skin, which can<br />
be considered an advantage, but may be less effective <strong>and</strong><br />
require multiple sessions.<br />
Non-ablative lasers are commonly used to correct<br />
certain skin concerns, remove tattoos <strong>and</strong> reduce hair by<br />
targeting the dark pigments.<br />
Fractionated laser technology<br />
The advent of fractionated laser, where microscopic<br />
columns of skin are treated while surrounding skin is left<br />
intact, has made it possible to achieve results comparable<br />
to traditional CO 2<br />
laser resurfacing with fewer side effects<br />
<strong>and</strong> profoundly less downtime.<br />
Fractional skin resurfacing can utilise both non-ablative<br />
<strong>and</strong> ablative laser systems – the breakthrough difference of<br />
128 www.cosbeauty.com.au
How does laser light<br />
differ from other light?<br />
Laser light is different to normal light for many reasons.<br />
It travels in a synchronised fashion, retains its intensity<br />
over a long distance, is monochromatic (of the same<br />
wavelength or colour) <strong>and</strong> it can be pulsed.<br />
The principle behind lasers is light absorption. The<br />
same as a black car will be hotter than a white car<br />
because it absorbs more wavelengths of light, certain<br />
target tissues will absorb certain wavelengths of light<br />
more effectively. As the laser light is monochromatic,<br />
the target tissue will take on maximum absorption while<br />
the surrounding tissues won’t. This allows the target to<br />
be isolated <strong>and</strong> treated.<br />
It’s the colour in the structure that absorbs the colour<br />
of the wavelength. There are absorption spectra (level<br />
of absorption of particular wavelengths) outside of our<br />
normal colour vision range. We can’t see ultraviolet light<br />
but it’s there <strong>and</strong> is absorbed by particular structures.<br />
Carbon dioxide (CO 2<br />
) <strong>and</strong> erbium lasers emit<br />
frequencies out of our visible range <strong>and</strong> water is a very<br />
strong target tissue for them.<br />
this technology is the fractionated delivery system of light.<br />
All fractional resurfacing follows the same premise: the<br />
laser beam is broken up, or fractionated, into many small<br />
microbeams. When these beams strike the skin’s surface,<br />
only small areas of the skin are damaged, leaving the<br />
surrounding skin intact. These small areas of undamaged<br />
skin promote much more rapid re-epithelialisation, recovery<br />
<strong>and</strong> healing, which promotes new collagen production <strong>and</strong><br />
facial skin rejuvenation.<br />
The applications for fractional laser technology include<br />
overall facial rejuvenation, improving evenness of skin tone<br />
<strong>and</strong> texture, reducing pore size, improving the appearance<br />
of lines <strong>and</strong> wrinkles <strong>and</strong> helping to reverse the effects<br />
of sun damage. A more mild treatment may take several<br />
sessions, while one procedure is usually sufficient for a<br />
more aggressive treatment.<br />
Light-based therapies<br />
feature<br />
Intense Pulsed Light (IPL) delivers a broader spectrum<br />
of light energy, unlike a laser’s single wavelength – but it<br />
is not a laser. IPL is a non-invasive procedure that has<br />
been shown to help improve the appearance of red <strong>and</strong><br />
brown skin discolourations, birthmarks <strong>and</strong> symptoms of<br />
rosacea, as well as to tighten <strong>and</strong> refine the appearance of<br />
the skin. This process is also known as photorejuvenation<br />
or a photofacial.<br />
The usual downtime with IPL modalities is minimal to<br />
none, depending on the intensity of treatment, however<br />
full recovery can take around two weeks in some cases.<br />
Immediately after IPL a slight burning sensation can occur<br />
for a few hours but there is generally little discomfort.<br />
Temporary discolouration can usually occur for around<br />
three to four days after the procedure <strong>and</strong> this skin will flake<br />
off slowly. Short-term side effects include reddening of the<br />
skin (erythema), temporary bruising <strong>and</strong> swelling (oedema).<br />
Reactions such as scabbing <strong>and</strong> blistering are possible,<br />
though rare. It’s important to protect skin from UV light with<br />
daily sunscreen application.<br />
Light Emitting Diode (LED) is a shallower, gentler<br />
treatment than IPL, <strong>and</strong> is often used for collagen boosting<br />
<strong>and</strong> rejuvenating the skin. LED comes in a variety of colours<br />
– red for fighting acne, blue to combat bacteria <strong>and</strong> yellow<br />
to reduce redness.<br />
LEDs are very small lightbulbs that, in contrast to<br />
ordinary inc<strong>and</strong>escent bulbs, don’t get especially hot <strong>and</strong><br />
don’t burn out. LEDs have been found to trigger natural<br />
chemical processes inside the cells, boosting the body’s<br />
own production of collagen, which make them particularly<br />
useful for skin rejuvenation. Together with certain photoreactive<br />
acids, LEDs have been shown to be extremely<br />
effective in the treatment of acne – this is known as photo<br />
dynamic therapy.<br />
Photodynamic therapy (PDT) uses a chemical<br />
reaction activated by light energy (LED light or laser) to<br />
selectively destroy specific tissues, <strong>and</strong> can be used to<br />
treat sunspots, certain types of skin cancer, rosacea, acne<br />
<strong>and</strong> sun-damaged skin.<br />
A photosensitising medication is applied topically on<br />
the skin <strong>and</strong> a narrow b<strong>and</strong> of light (red or blue light) is<br />
administered to cause a moderately deep exfoliation <strong>and</strong><br />
target damaged tissue <strong>and</strong> sebaceous gl<strong>and</strong>s. When skin is<br />
exposed to a light source of an appropriate wavelength, its<br />
photosensitiser molecules are activated to produce oxygen<br />
intermediates that destroy the targeted cells. Recovery time<br />
is around two weeks after each treatment <strong>and</strong> usually one<br />
to three sessions are required.<br />
The benefits <strong>and</strong> applications for laser <strong>and</strong> light-based<br />
treatments continue to grow, <strong>and</strong> their full potential for<br />
treating a myriad of cosmetic <strong>and</strong> medical issues is perhaps<br />
still to be realised. csbm<br />
anti ageing<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 129
skin<br />
Fractionated<br />
Rejuvenation<br />
rejuvenate your complexion <strong>and</strong> improve the look of wrinkles <strong>and</strong><br />
pigmentation with the ever-popular fraxel laser. Caitlin Bishop reports.<br />
Since its introduction to Australia in the 1980s,<br />
cosmetic laser technology has evolved significantly.<br />
With new technologies <strong>and</strong> advanced techniques,<br />
laser treatment has become more refined, granting effective,<br />
predictable <strong>and</strong> consistent results in facial rejuvenation.<br />
Fraxel, distributed by Solta Medical, signifies the cutting<br />
edge in skin resurfacing, using fractionated laser to reduce<br />
the appearance of wrinkles, combat the signs of ageing<br />
<strong>and</strong> help treat pigmentation <strong>and</strong> scarring.<br />
Where once laser was purely an ablative treatment – a<br />
literal skin resurfacing where the top layer <strong>and</strong> part of the<br />
sub-layer was removed – the advent of fractionated lasers<br />
has transformed the way laser light can be used as an antiageing<br />
treatment.<br />
Instead of removing the skin’s surface, fractionated<br />
lasers make thous<strong>and</strong>s of microscopic injuries in the skin.<br />
These injuries stimulate the production of collagen in the<br />
dermis, which strengthens, tightens <strong>and</strong> remodels the skin<br />
from within. In this, fractionated laser treatment can help<br />
homogenise skin tone <strong>and</strong> texture, fill wrinkles <strong>and</strong> improve<br />
the appearance of skin blemishes, pigmentation, scars <strong>and</strong><br />
stretch marks.<br />
Sydney cosmetic surgeon Dr Neal Hamilton uses<br />
Fraxel to treat a number of patient concerns. He believes<br />
the fractionated technology has opened a wealth of<br />
opportunities in treating aged, sun-damaged skin. ‘Fraxel<br />
provides the best combination of beautiful results, comfort<br />
of treatment, expedited healing <strong>and</strong> affordability,’ he<br />
130 www.cosbeauty.com.au
elieves. ‘Over the past decade, the Fraxel systems have<br />
revolutionised how we treat aging <strong>and</strong> sun-damaged skin.’<br />
Dr Hamilton uses Fraxel to treat a number of conditions,<br />
including textural irregularities, fine lines, deep folds, poor<br />
skin tone, enlarged pores, pigmentation <strong>and</strong> redness.<br />
Notably, Fraxel treatment can be performed using either<br />
light or heavy settings. At his clinic, Dr Hamilton offers Fraxel<br />
‘resurfacing’ (heavy Fraxel) <strong>and</strong> ‘laser peeling’ (light Fraxel),<br />
depending on patient concerns.<br />
‘Fraxel can be used almost like a “light dimmer switch”,’<br />
Dr Hamilton explains. ‘I find the low settings<br />
are excellent for improving skin texture, enhancing<br />
the complexion, treating pigmentation <strong>and</strong><br />
reducing crepey skin.’<br />
‘The high setting achieves the same effect but<br />
also helps tighten skin, reduce the appearance of<br />
wrinkling <strong>and</strong> assist in scar reduction,’ Dr Hamilton<br />
adds. ‘Typically, heavy Fraxel resurfacing can take<br />
a decade off of the skin’s appearance.’<br />
skin<br />
to keep their skin beautiful,’ Dr Hamilton says. ‘For heavy<br />
Fraxel resurfacing, those with moderate to extreme sun<br />
damage can benefit. The aim is to make the facial skin look<br />
more like the skin on the inside of the forearm.’<br />
As well as a st<strong>and</strong>alone treatment, Fraxel can also<br />
be used to reduce the appearance of scarring following<br />
surgery, or to boost skin health before undertaking surgery.<br />
This can help optimise <strong>and</strong> maintain the results of surgical<br />
rejuvenation, affording a holistic <strong>and</strong> long-term approach to<br />
facial anti-ageing. csbm<br />
anti ageing<br />
Over the past decade,<br />
Fraxel has revolutionised<br />
how we treat aging <strong>and</strong><br />
sun-damaged skin<br />
BEFORE<br />
One month AFTER one Fraxel treatment. Photos<br />
courtesy of Solta Medical<br />
According to Dr Hamilton, the amount of<br />
treatments required, <strong>and</strong> the downtime involved<br />
following each treatment, varies depending on<br />
the level used. ‘Ideally, light Fraxel is performed<br />
relatively frequently to maintain results, for example<br />
every 12 to 18 months,’ Dr Hamilton explains.<br />
‘This level of Fraxel offers minimal downtime –<br />
most patients can function as normal following<br />
treatment, using makeup to cover any redness.’<br />
‘Alternatively, the more aggressive level of<br />
Fraxel is performed infrequently – every five years<br />
or so,’ Dr Hamilton adds. ‘Because it is more<br />
ablative, it incurs around 10 days of downtime.’<br />
Each treatment generally lasts between 15 to<br />
45 minutes <strong>and</strong> results usually take around three<br />
weeks to appear, once the new collagen has<br />
begun to form.<br />
Fractionated laser can be used to address<br />
those concerns once deemed near impossible<br />
to treat – for example, keloid scarring, sun spots,<br />
melasma <strong>and</strong> deep acne scars. By triggering<br />
the body’s healing response, <strong>and</strong> harnessing<br />
the skin’s natural processes, Fraxel boosts skin<br />
health, enhances its resilience <strong>and</strong> helping treat<br />
specific ageing concerns.<br />
‘There is no such thing as a “typical patient” for<br />
light Fraxel – it is suitable for anyone who wants<br />
BEFORE<br />
BEFORE<br />
AFTER xxxxx<br />
One month AFTER one Fraxel treatment. Photos<br />
courtesy of Solta Medical<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 131
skin<br />
Lift<br />
& tone<br />
tighten<br />
In a non-surgical approach to<br />
facelifting, Ultherapy by high<br />
tech laser uses ultrasound<br />
technology to lift the face <strong>and</strong><br />
neck. caitlin Bishop reports.<br />
132 www.cosbeauty.com.au
skin<br />
In lifting <strong>and</strong> tightening the skin on the neck, chin <strong>and</strong><br />
brow, Ultherapy, distributed by High Tech Laser, signifies<br />
the latest technology in non-surgical, non-invasive<br />
facelifting. It is designed to counteract the skin laxity<br />
associated with ageing, <strong>and</strong> uses focused ultrasound<br />
technology to improve skin texture, refine the facial contours<br />
<strong>and</strong>, most notably, lift the skin on the face <strong>and</strong> neck for an<br />
anti-ageing effect.<br />
‘Ultherapy uses the fundamentals of ultrasound<br />
technology to address the same muscles of the face <strong>and</strong><br />
upper neck that are affected in a surgical facelift or brow<br />
lift,’ explains American dermatologist Dr Vivian Bucay, who<br />
will speak at the Australasian Society of Aesthetic Plastic<br />
<strong>Surgery</strong>’s (ASAPS) Non-Surgical Symposium in May.<br />
‘Ultherapy can be effective in creating a more defined<br />
jaw line, firming the skin under the chin <strong>and</strong> on the neck,<br />
tightening the skin on the cheeks <strong>and</strong> reducing sagging<br />
around the eyes,’ she continues. ‘It is also effective in<br />
improving lines around the mouth.’<br />
Similarly, Queensl<strong>and</strong> cosmetic physician Dr Mary<br />
Dingley uses Ultherapy to help combat the signs of ageing<br />
<strong>and</strong> revitalise the complexion. She explains ultrasound<br />
therapy can achieve consistent <strong>and</strong> predictable results.<br />
‘Focused ultrasound seems to produce more reliable<br />
results than what we were using before,’ she says. ‘Like all<br />
non-surgical lifting procedures, Ultherapy involves a wait to<br />
see the final results – around six months – but we seem to<br />
get far more predictable effects with this modality.’<br />
Ultherapy causes a gradual<br />
lifting effect, due to the formation<br />
of new collagen in the skin’s<br />
deeper layers<br />
Ultherapy uses a patented DeepSEE technology<br />
to achieve noticeable results. This technology affords<br />
practitioners a visual image of the subcutaneous skin layers,<br />
up to 8mm deep. It is here, in the superficial muscular<br />
aponueurotic system (SMAS), where Ultherapy’s ultrasound<br />
treatment inflicts small, fractional thermal injuries, without<br />
damaging the skin’s upper layers. These injuries trigger<br />
the body’s healing response <strong>and</strong> cause tightening <strong>and</strong><br />
shrinkage in the deep facial tissue.<br />
‘The three-dimensional, digital imagery allows me to<br />
see below the surface of the skin <strong>and</strong> accurately gauge<br />
depth,’ Dr Bucay explains. ‘During treatment, I move the<br />
transducer over the treatment area, laying down parallel<br />
lines of ultrasound waves.’<br />
For improved results, treatment can be performed at<br />
different depths using alternative transducers. The SMAS<br />
<strong>and</strong> dermis can be tightened using the 4.5mm <strong>and</strong> 3mm<br />
transducers respectively, while the 1.5mm transducer<br />
delivers effective results around the eye area.<br />
Though multidimensional lifts can create holistic <strong>and</strong><br />
universal results, Dr Dingley says the different transducers<br />
It offers a wonderful alternative<br />
for the patient who wants a<br />
firmer, more youthful face <strong>and</strong><br />
neck without surgery<br />
can be used for different skin concerns. ‘Different<br />
transducers will focus at different depths to produce<br />
different effects. The deepest one focuses on the “SMAS”<br />
layer, a fibrous layer below the skin of the face which is<br />
usually tightened in surgical facelifts,’ she explains. ‘A<br />
mid-depth transducer focuses on the deeper layers of<br />
the skin, <strong>and</strong> a more superficial one may be used for skin<br />
texture issues.’<br />
Common treatment areas for Ultherapy include the<br />
forehead, mid <strong>and</strong> lower face <strong>and</strong> eyelids. Treatment can<br />
also help reduce the appearance of crepey <strong>and</strong> drooping<br />
skin on the neck <strong>and</strong> cheeks, as well as the appearance of<br />
nasolabial folds <strong>and</strong> marionette lines.<br />
‘The typical patient is one with mild to moderate laxity,<br />
usually of the cheeks <strong>and</strong> submental (under the chin) area,’<br />
Dr Dingley says. ‘Ultherapy causes a gradual lifting effect,<br />
which occurs due to the formation of new collagen in the<br />
layers targeted during treatment. This takes place gradually,<br />
over a six month period.’<br />
In most cases, treatment is reasonably well tolerated<br />
<strong>and</strong> patients can typically resume everyday activities<br />
immediately after. Dr Bucay often combines Ultherapy with<br />
other modalities to optimise results following treatment.<br />
‘I usually have an initial consultation with my patients to<br />
explain how Ultherapy works <strong>and</strong> explore the possibilities<br />
of combining procedures,’ she explains. ‘Ultherapy can be<br />
partnered with laser resurfacing or other treatments to treat<br />
age spots <strong>and</strong> surface irregularities.’<br />
Although there are some instances where surgery<br />
is needed to achieve the most suitable results in facial<br />
rejuvenation, Dr Bucay explains Ultherapy offers an effective<br />
option for those patients looking to rejuvenate their face<br />
using a less invasive process with next to no downtime,<br />
if any.<br />
‘Ultherapy affords a wonderful alternative for the patient<br />
who wants a firmer, more youthful-looking face <strong>and</strong> neck<br />
without surgery,’ says Dr Bucay. ‘Ultherapy improves<br />
skin integrity <strong>and</strong> resilience, using a discreet process with<br />
minimal downtime.’ csbm<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 133
skin<br />
Age eraser<br />
Introducing PellevÉ, the<br />
lATest technology to reduce<br />
wrinkles <strong>and</strong> tighten skin with<br />
no surgery <strong>and</strong> no downtime.<br />
AimÉe SURTenich repoRTS.<br />
Want to look younger without surgery <strong>and</strong> time off<br />
work? Pellevé, distributed in Australia by Medtel,<br />
could be the non-invasive solution you’ve been<br />
looking for.<br />
Pellevé is the latest non-surgical treatment for skin<br />
tightening <strong>and</strong> mild to moderate wrinkle reduction <strong>and</strong><br />
has quickly gained traction in the US as a must-have facial<br />
rejuvenation treatment, as featured on Good Morning<br />
America, The Doctors <strong>and</strong> the Dr Oz. Show.<br />
The device uses radiofrequency (RF) pulse technology<br />
for non-ablative skin tightening <strong>and</strong> facial rejuvenation,<br />
offering a less painful treatment to reduce some of the most<br />
common signs of ageing.<br />
Pellevé is designed to precisely deliver RF energy to<br />
dermal tissue to induce collagen contraction without<br />
damaging the epidermis (the outer surface of the skin).<br />
The result is skin tightening <strong>and</strong> contouring with a<br />
noticeable improvement in skin quality <strong>and</strong> texture. This<br />
unique radiofrequency technology emits energy in the<br />
134 www.cosbeauty.com.au
form of electromagnetic waves, which create a heated<br />
treatment zone.<br />
This heat induces collagen contraction <strong>and</strong> stimulates<br />
new collagen formation in the dermis which also results in<br />
epidermal tightening. As heat is most efficiently delivered to<br />
the dermal layers (to trigger collagen production), there is<br />
minimal risk of damaging the surface of the skin.<br />
What makes Pellevé st<strong>and</strong> apart from some other<br />
skin rejuvenation treatments is that it does not require any<br />
local anaesthetic to numb the skin, it does not use injections<br />
or needles <strong>and</strong> there is typically no downtime.<br />
Pellevé is the latest<br />
non-surgical procedure for<br />
skin tightening <strong>and</strong> mild to<br />
moderate wrinkle reduction<br />
The actual treatment involves heating up the underlying<br />
skin tissue using a Glidesafe h<strong>and</strong>piece connected to the<br />
Pellevé machine. Due to its compact design, the h<strong>and</strong>piece<br />
offers practitioners greater precision in targeting areas of<br />
concern, such as the often difficult-to-treat eye area.<br />
Using one of four h<strong>and</strong>pieces, heat is gradually delivered<br />
into the deep layers of skin, stimulating new collagen<br />
growth <strong>and</strong> tightening skin. The gradual heat delivery offers<br />
a painless treatment for the patient.<br />
By using a combination of the different sizes of<br />
h<strong>and</strong>pieces, each patient’s treatment can be customised<br />
so that specific areas of concern can be addressed,<br />
resulting in the desired amount of energy being delivered<br />
to achieve optimal results. Small h<strong>and</strong>pieces are ideal for<br />
manoeuvring around parts of the face that are traditionally<br />
difficult to effectively reach, such as around the eyes <strong>and</strong><br />
nose/cheek junction. Larger h<strong>and</strong>pieces are optimised to<br />
treat the mid-face, jowl areas <strong>and</strong> neck.<br />
It can be used anywhere on the face neck <strong>and</strong> h<strong>and</strong>s,<br />
smoothing <strong>and</strong> plumping out mild to moderate wrinkles,<br />
nasolabial folds, <strong>and</strong> crow’s feet around the eyes, as well<br />
as improving other common signs of ageing associated<br />
with skin texture <strong>and</strong> skin laxity. Patients typically report no<br />
discomfort during treatment, noting that it feels more like a<br />
warm facial or massage.<br />
The procedure usually takes around an hour, depending<br />
on the number of areas to be treated. One treatment may<br />
suffice, but most doctors recommend a series of three<br />
treatments spaced around a month apart for optimal<br />
rejuvenation results.<br />
Tightening can be seen immediately after the procedure<br />
due to contraction of the collagen layer. This tightening<br />
1<br />
BEFORE<br />
2<br />
What can PellevÉ<br />
be used for?<br />
BEFORE<br />
skin<br />
Pellevé can be used on all areas of the face, neck<br />
<strong>and</strong> h<strong>and</strong>s, remodelling tissue <strong>and</strong> tightening skin<br />
through new collagen growth within the deeper skin<br />
layers. It is commonly used to help improve:<br />
• Crow’s feet<br />
• Nasolabial folds<br />
• Mild to moderate wrinkles<br />
• Skin tightness <strong>and</strong> tone<br />
• Skin imperfections such as age spots<br />
<strong>and</strong> spider veins<br />
effect continues to improve over two to three months as<br />
new collagen forms, resulting in plumper, thicker skin. Full<br />
results develop over a six-month period <strong>and</strong> can last up to<br />
two years, with annual follow-up treatments being highly<br />
recommended to maintain long-lasting results.<br />
There is typically some redness, like a mild sunburn,<br />
after treatment but this usually subsides within a couple of<br />
hours. Other than this, there are generally no reported side<br />
effects to Pellevé treatment <strong>and</strong> normal daily activities can<br />
be resumed.<br />
As a wrinkle reducing <strong>and</strong> skin tightening treatment, the<br />
Pellevé system looks set to herald a breakthrough in nonsurgical<br />
cosmetic enhancement. csbm<br />
90 days AFTER 4 treatments (photos courtesy<br />
of Dr Igor Jeremic)<br />
180 days AFTER one treatment (photos<br />
courtesy of Dr Antonio Rusciani)<br />
anti ageing<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 135
skin<br />
Leaders in light therapy<br />
Omnilux light therapy, a trusted method for rejuvenating <strong>and</strong><br />
beautifying the skin, is used by thous<strong>and</strong>s of dermatologists <strong>and</strong><br />
plastic surgeons around the world. Caitlin Bishop reports.<br />
Backed by many years of medical research, used<br />
by more than 3,300 dermatologists <strong>and</strong> plastic<br />
surgeons worldwide, <strong>and</strong> documented in over 40<br />
peer-reviewed publications, Omnilux has a history that<br />
surpasses any other light therapy device.<br />
The device, distributed in Australia by True Solutions,<br />
works with the body’s natural processes to help reverse the<br />
signs of ageing <strong>and</strong> treat certain skin conditions. It uses<br />
Light Emitting Diodes (LEDs) to deliver specific colours, or<br />
wavelengths, <strong>and</strong> trigger precise reactions below the skin’s<br />
surface. This is effective in achieving significant results –<br />
results that have been supported by clinical research – in<br />
skin rejuvenation, acne treatment <strong>and</strong> anti-ageing.<br />
Sydney cosmetic surgeon Dr Saras Sundrum has been<br />
using Omnilux in her clinics for the past 10 years. She has<br />
received a consistently positive response from her clients.<br />
‘Omnilux is the only proven TGA-approved LED device<br />
with years of research <strong>and</strong> written papers behind it,’ she<br />
says. ‘Our clients love the non-invasive nature of it <strong>and</strong> the<br />
immediate results – it is a very relaxing treatment.’<br />
The Omnilux system includes three different wavelengths:<br />
near infrared (Omnilux Plus), red (Omnilux Revive) <strong>and</strong> blue<br />
(Omnilux Blue). The wavelength is selected depending on<br />
the concern being treated, <strong>and</strong> each wavelength excites<br />
particular cellular activity in the dermis <strong>and</strong> epidermis to<br />
promote healthy skin function.<br />
A key difference between Omnilux <strong>and</strong> other systems<br />
is the delivery of a single wavelength per treatment – as<br />
opposed to using multiple wavelengths. This delivers more<br />
direct, consistent <strong>and</strong> effective results, as the skin cells are<br />
stimulated in the same way during the entire treatment.<br />
There is no cell confusion, nor counter activity.<br />
Some physicians, however, do choose to combine<br />
Omnilux Plus <strong>and</strong> Omnilux Revive, as they can work in<br />
conjunction to achieve a more thorough rejuvenation in<br />
certain cases. ‘This combination results in a noticeable<br />
softening of fine lines <strong>and</strong> a reduction in pore size,’ says<br />
founder of Clear Complexions Clinics <strong>and</strong> registered nurse<br />
Suzie Hoitink. ‘It also returns an overall, more youthful<br />
appearance to the skin.’<br />
136 www.cosbeauty.com.au
skin<br />
anti ageing<br />
Skin rejuvenation<br />
Suzie uses the Omnilux system to treat a number of<br />
different skin conditions <strong>and</strong> anti-ageing concerns of her<br />
patients. She explains the light therapy can be effective in<br />
undoing environmental damage <strong>and</strong> rejuvenating the skin<br />
from within.<br />
‘As we age, the structural integrity of the skin is<br />
compromised, resulting in thinner skin, wrinkles <strong>and</strong><br />
capillary damage,’ Suzie explains. ‘Omnilux Plus <strong>and</strong><br />
Omnilux Revive work to “kick” the skin back five years or<br />
so, to increase strength, elasticity <strong>and</strong> overall health.’<br />
Our clients love the noninvasive<br />
nature of Omnilux <strong>and</strong><br />
the immediate results<br />
More specifically, Omnilux Revive targets fibroblasts in<br />
the skin’s dermis, which are the cells responsible for<br />
producing collagen <strong>and</strong> elastin. The red wavelength also<br />
delivers an anti-inflammatory effect, helping promote<br />
efficient, healthy <strong>and</strong> regular cellular activity in the skin.<br />
Omnilux Plus works at a different level. It promotes the<br />
activity of myofibroblasts, which are the cells that help<br />
tighten collagen bundles <strong>and</strong> create a neat, even <strong>and</strong><br />
resilient structure of collagen fibres in the skin. Treatment<br />
with Omnilux Plus has also been found to assist in healing<br />
<strong>and</strong> to reduce the level of toxins in the skin.<br />
‘If your skin is feeling tired <strong>and</strong> the effects of environmental<br />
damage are beginning to show, the Omnilux system is<br />
incredibly effective at rejuvenating your skin,’ Suzie explains.<br />
Previous studies have found 10 treatments with<br />
Omnilux is recommend to achieve optimum results in<br />
general rejuvenation. Suzie typically performs two<br />
treatments, twice a week, over a five-week period, to<br />
achieve the optimal outcome. ‘Each treatment is pain-free<br />
<strong>and</strong> lasts around 20 minutes in duration,’ she says. ‘Before<br />
treatment, we apply a preparatory solution to the skin to<br />
enhance light penetration.’<br />
Notably, the Omnilux System can be used in conjunction<br />
with other skin therapies to optimise results for a more<br />
universal rejuvenation. ‘We use Omnilux after laser, IPL,<br />
needling <strong>and</strong> injectable treatments to reduce inflammation,’<br />
Dr Sundrum explains. ‘We also use it as a st<strong>and</strong>alone<br />
treatment for our patients who want rejuvenation <strong>and</strong><br />
collagen remodelling without any more invasive treatments.’<br />
Healing benefits<br />
Because of its regenerative <strong>and</strong> healing benefits, the<br />
Omnilux Plus is often used before <strong>and</strong> after surgery to<br />
accelerate <strong>and</strong> improve the healing process. The infrared<br />
wavelength penetrates the skin by 8 to 12mm to trigger<br />
the wound-healing response, reduce healing time <strong>and</strong> help<br />
prevent scar formation.<br />
‘For anyone considering surgery, the Omnilux Plus is<br />
an absolute must,’ Suzie explains. ‘It can be used before<br />
surgery to prepare the skin, <strong>and</strong> after surgery to promote<br />
rapid wound healing <strong>and</strong> assist in scar reduction.’<br />
Similarly, the anti-inflammatory benefits of Omnilux<br />
Revive, <strong>and</strong> the healing benefits of Omnilux Plus, present<br />
a valuable option in treating rosacea. Facial flushing,<br />
persistent redness, thickened skin, visible capillaries <strong>and</strong><br />
painful inflammation are all symptoms of rosacea, <strong>and</strong><br />
treatment with the Omnilux system can boost immune<br />
function, clear damaged tissue <strong>and</strong> promote the production<br />
of new, healthy cells to clear the complexion.<br />
Acne treatment<br />
Acne is one of the most common <strong>and</strong> debilitating skin<br />
conditions. It occurs when the sebaceous gl<strong>and</strong>s in the<br />
skin produce too much oil, creating a breeding ground<br />
for bacteria <strong>and</strong> leading to clogged pores, pimples,<br />
inflammation <strong>and</strong> redness.<br />
The Omnilux Blue is designed to prevent the spread of<br />
this bacterium, by penetrating the skin’s deeper layers <strong>and</strong><br />
stimulating the production of bacteria-destroying chemicals.<br />
Suzie often combines Omnilux Blue with Omnilux<br />
Revive, to partner the anti-bacterial <strong>and</strong> anti-inflammatory<br />
effect. When used in acne treatment, the Omnilux system<br />
soothes painful inflammation, reduces the amount of<br />
bacteria <strong>and</strong> improves acne. At the same time, the system<br />
also accelerates healing <strong>and</strong> strengthens the natural<br />
function of the skin to prevent against future recurrence of<br />
acne irritation. csbm<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 137
skin<br />
rolling<br />
back the<br />
years<br />
The Eclipse MicroPen is an<br />
innovation in microneedling,<br />
improving the appearance of<br />
ageing, damaged skin. AimÉe<br />
Surtenich reports.<br />
The Eclipse MicroPen, distributed in Australia by<br />
Avention Global, is the latest advancement in<br />
microneedling. This skin rejuvenation system is useful<br />
in improving fine lines <strong>and</strong> wrinkles, acne <strong>and</strong> surgical<br />
scars, stretch marks <strong>and</strong> overall skin tone <strong>and</strong> texture.<br />
Also known as Collagen Induction Therapy (CIT),<br />
microneedling is a minimally invasive procedure that uses<br />
tiny needles to create multiple microscopic injuries in<br />
the epidermis. The micro injuries trigger the production<br />
of collagen <strong>and</strong> elastin, the building blocks of smoother,<br />
healthier looking skin. The result is a more even-toned,<br />
tighter <strong>and</strong> radiant skin as the new healthy skin cells<br />
work to rejuvenate skin from the inside out, helping to<br />
fill in depressed scars <strong>and</strong> wrinkles <strong>and</strong> smooth skin<br />
imperfections.<br />
In this way, it works like any fractionated procedure,<br />
perforating multiple pin-point holes at various depths in the<br />
skin to trigger the body’s natural healing response.<br />
Benefits of microneedling<br />
The MicroPen is safe to use on numerous parts of<br />
the body, including the face, neck, décolletage, arms,<br />
h<strong>and</strong>s, legs, abdomen <strong>and</strong> back. Benefits include:<br />
• Reduction in fine lines <strong>and</strong> wrinkles<br />
• More radiant skin tone <strong>and</strong> texture<br />
• Improved appearance of pigmentation<br />
• Improved appearance of acne <strong>and</strong> surgical scars<br />
• Improved appearance of stretch marks<br />
• Overall younger looking skin<br />
What makes the MicroPen different?<br />
Composed of medical-grade stainless steel, the Eclipse<br />
MicroPen is the first completely cordless fractional<br />
automated microneedling device for treating various<br />
dermatologic indications. It uses automated oscillation at<br />
8,500RPM to place microchannels more uniformly <strong>and</strong><br />
reduce trauma to the skin.<br />
The MicroPen features the new Turbo Safety Needle,<br />
consisting of 12 32-gauge medical-grade needles for<br />
rapid healing, minimised discomfort <strong>and</strong> – uniquely – no risk<br />
of cross-contamination. The vented Turbo Safety Needle<br />
virtually eliminates the risk of cross-contamination by<br />
its unique needle cartridge which blocks the migration<br />
of fluids.<br />
The cross-infection protection system works in two<br />
ways: first, the side outlet prevents negative suction drawing<br />
fluid into the pen; <strong>and</strong> second, the concertina synthetic<br />
prevents any fluid contaminants from entering the pen.<br />
No other needle has this feature <strong>and</strong> ensures the safety of<br />
the patient.<br />
The ultra-fast pulsation also enhances optimal patient<br />
comfort <strong>and</strong> shorter treatment time. Further, the MicroPen’s<br />
fractionated Turbo Safety Needle, as featured on the hit US<br />
TV show The Doctors, is designed to cause minimal trauma<br />
to the skin <strong>and</strong> surrounding tissue while still achieving<br />
desired end points necessary for collagen remodelling.<br />
‘I am very enthusiastic about the new MicroPen skin<br />
needling device,’ says Sydney cosmetic surgeon Dr<br />
Joseph Georghy, one of the first adopters of the MicroPen<br />
138 www.cosbeauty.com.au
in Australia. ‘I believe it has the potential to revolutionise<br />
the practice of treating many skin conditions, as well as for<br />
overall facial rejuvenation,’ he continues. ‘Its slim, light <strong>and</strong><br />
ergonomic design fits in the palm of your h<strong>and</strong>, enabling a<br />
more efficient <strong>and</strong> comfortable treatment.’<br />
The tiny microchannels created by the MicroPen are<br />
also ideal for the absorption of topical skincare products<br />
such as hyaluronic acid, lightening serums or woundhealing<br />
topicals, allowing diffusion of product into those<br />
deeper skin layers at a cellular level.<br />
For the right patient, microneedling with the MicroPen<br />
offers an effective alternative to common skin resurfacing<br />
techniques such as laser therapy <strong>and</strong> dermal rollers. It is<br />
also suitable for use in conjunction with platelet-rich plasma<br />
(PRP) treatment, to maximise the skin rejuvenation results<br />
of PRP.<br />
What does the treatment involve?<br />
During the procedure, the pen is gently pressed against the<br />
skin while simultaneously gliding in one direction until the<br />
entire treatment area has been covered.<br />
The Turbo Safety Needle depth is adjustable from 0<br />
to 2.75mm, allowing the practitioner to adjust the level<br />
of treatment according to the patient’s needs. Each<br />
skin<br />
procedure takes around 15 to 30 minutes, depending on<br />
the area treated.<br />
‘Importantly, the MicroPen’s cordless, portable design<br />
allows the practitioner to move more freely during treatment,<br />
affording greater control <strong>and</strong> accessibility to the patient’s<br />
target areas,’ says Dr Georghy.<br />
Patients can typically resume their everyday activities<br />
straight after treatment. Mild redness <strong>and</strong> some inflammation<br />
of the skin is typical, but this usually subsides after a day<br />
or two <strong>and</strong> can be covered by mineral makeup if desired.<br />
Visible changes to the skin develop over the course<br />
of several days <strong>and</strong> weeks. Results are cumulative, <strong>and</strong><br />
continue to improve up to six months after treatment as<br />
collagen production continues.<br />
Some patients only require a single treatment, once<br />
per year to achieve, <strong>and</strong> maintain, optimal results. However,<br />
it is recommended for most patients to receive a series<br />
of two to three treatments spaced around six to eight<br />
weeks apart. For patients with deep-set wrinkles, advanced<br />
photoageing, stretch marks or acne scars, it is advised to<br />
undergo six to eight sessions at six-week intervals.<br />
‘I believe the MicroPen <strong>and</strong> the Turbo Safety Needle’s<br />
cross-contamination protection system heralds a<br />
technological breakthrough in microneedling treatment,’<br />
Dr Georghy concludes. csbm<br />
anti ageing<br />
ROLL BACK THE YEARS<br />
WITH THE ECLIPSE MICROPEN<br />
A breakthrough for beautiful skin<br />
The Eclipse MicroPen uses tiny sterile needles to create<br />
controlled micro-injuries to the skin for radiant results.<br />
The MicroPen is a slim, portable, cordless design which fi ts<br />
in the palm of your h<strong>and</strong>. It gives the practitioner superior<br />
control during micro-needling treatment, while affording a<br />
faster <strong>and</strong> more comfortable procedure for the client.<br />
The skin benefi ts of micro-needling include:<br />
• Improving fi ne lines<br />
• Tightening skin <strong>and</strong> improving tone<br />
• Promoting collagen <strong>and</strong> elastin production<br />
• Reducing the appearance of acne scarring,<br />
pigmentation <strong>and</strong> stretch marks<br />
To learn more about the unique<br />
benefi ts of the Eclipse MicroPen call<br />
1300 068 357<br />
www.aventionglobal.com<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 139
skin<br />
Love<br />
the skin<br />
you’re in<br />
In treating skin from the inside out, Suzie Hoitink from<br />
Clear Complexions Clinics TAkes an individualised, holistic <strong>and</strong><br />
combined approach to anti ageing. Caitlin Bishop reports.<br />
Clear, healthy <strong>and</strong> radiant skin can take years off<br />
your age. By countering the fine lines <strong>and</strong> wrinkles,<br />
textural irregularities <strong>and</strong> hyperpigmentation often<br />
associated with premature ageing, effective skincare <strong>and</strong> a<br />
multi-modal approach to anti-ageing can go a long way in<br />
fortifying the skin <strong>and</strong> maintaining youthfulness in the body’s<br />
biggest organ.<br />
‘There is a plethora of treatments available that help<br />
minimise <strong>and</strong> prevent the signs of ageing,’ says Suzie<br />
Hoitink, registered nurse <strong>and</strong> founder of the award-winning<br />
Clear Complexions Clinics. ‘It’s about knowing how to put<br />
the right combination of skincare <strong>and</strong> treatments together<br />
for each individual, <strong>and</strong> establishing a plan that maintains<br />
skin health going forward.’<br />
A common skin complaint, particularly in Australia,<br />
is hyperpigmentation or ‘sun spots’ on the face. This is<br />
caused by increased melanin (the skin’s natural pigment) in<br />
the epidermis, <strong>and</strong> is triggered by sun damage, hormones,<br />
trauma <strong>and</strong> some diseases. Scarily, the ‘invisible mask’ of<br />
pigmentation can go unnoticed for years before appearing<br />
to blemish the face, as patches of melanin can accumulate<br />
below the skin’s upper layers without any visible, telltale<br />
signs presenting on the surface.<br />
‘Most clients in their forties come to me concerned<br />
with pigmentation, or brown spots <strong>and</strong> marks, that keep<br />
appearing on their skin,’ explains Suzie. ‘Despite being<br />
vigilant in more recent years about sun protection, the<br />
damage that was caused in their twenties <strong>and</strong> thirties due<br />
to sun exposure has already been done <strong>and</strong> will continue<br />
to surface.’<br />
Although hyperpigmentation is notoriously difficult to<br />
treat, Suzie’s approach combines technologies to help<br />
lighten the appearance of surface spots <strong>and</strong> regulate the<br />
production of melanin in the skin.<br />
‘The beautiful thing is we’ve got access to numerous<br />
ways for treating hyperpigmentation, among other skin<br />
concerns’ Suzie explains. ‘I don’t want to just improve your<br />
skin now, I want you to look good in ten years time.’<br />
IPL <strong>and</strong> Laser<br />
Hyperpigmentation is commonly seen alongside vascular<br />
damage, <strong>and</strong> a popular treatment to address both these<br />
concerns is Intense Pulsed Light (IPL). This harnesses light<br />
energy at certain wavelengths to stimulate cellular turnover<br />
<strong>and</strong> the production of collagen fibres in the dermis.<br />
In targeting pigmentation, IPL is absorbed by melanin<br />
particles <strong>and</strong> generates a thermal effect. As a result, the sun<br />
spots are broken up <strong>and</strong> the melanin particles are flushed<br />
from the body.<br />
Alternatively, fractionated laser is a resurfacing approach<br />
that clears the hyperpigmentation visible on the skin’s<br />
140 www.cosbeauty.com.au
Injectables<br />
As we age, dynamic wrinkles – or those that are visible<br />
when we move our face in expression – slowly turn into<br />
more permanent fixtures. An increase in skin laxity <strong>and</strong><br />
loss in facial volume contribute to the appearance of<br />
fine lines <strong>and</strong> deeper wrinkles, but Suzie explains the<br />
judicious use of anti-wrinkle injections <strong>and</strong> dermal fillers<br />
can be a viable option in reversing the signs of ageing.<br />
‘Injectables can be used to soften wrinkles, or<br />
restore volume loss in the cheeks or around the mouth,<br />
but should be used as part of a wider anti-ageing<br />
regime,’ she says. ‘Without addressing skin texture <strong>and</strong><br />
tone with other modalities, a reliance on injectables can<br />
lead to a strange or “done” appearance.’<br />
surface. This treatment also stimulates the production of<br />
collagen <strong>and</strong> elastin in the dermis, for an added anti-ageing<br />
skin benefit.<br />
‘Fractionated laser can achieve great results in creating<br />
smoother, softer skin <strong>and</strong> minimising the appearance of<br />
enlarged pores,’ Suzie explains. ‘It’s usually performed in a<br />
series of four to six treatments, but even a single treatment<br />
will leave your skin radiant <strong>and</strong> refreshed.’<br />
skin<br />
Clear Complexions offers a range of treatments,<br />
including light <strong>and</strong> laser therapy, injectables, platelet rich<br />
plasma, collagen induction therapy, procedure peels <strong>and</strong><br />
microdermabrasion. Using this extensive variety, the team<br />
of nurses at Clear Complexions Clinics can treat all aspects<br />
of ageing skin from the inside out, for holistic, sustainable<br />
<strong>and</strong> natural-looking results.<br />
‘The main focus for my team <strong>and</strong> I is improving the<br />
health <strong>and</strong> beauty of our clients’ skin. We are not just in<br />
the business of skincare; we are committed to our clients<br />
<strong>and</strong> believe real beauty comes from feeling confident<br />
in the skin you’re in,’ says Suzie. ‘Whether it’s treating<br />
hyperpigmentation, using injectables to help combat<br />
wrinkles or lost volume, or employing laser therapies <strong>and</strong><br />
platelet-rich plasma treatment for all-over facial rejuvenation,<br />
we hold ourselves accountable to making a difference in<br />
each patient’s skin.’ csbm<br />
1<br />
anti ageing<br />
Skin Care<br />
Prevention is key in improving <strong>and</strong> maintaining skin health.<br />
Diligently following a high-quality skincare program can<br />
reinforce the skin’s resilience against those environmental<br />
factors that accelerate <strong>and</strong> magnify the ageing process.<br />
‘Products that contain Vitamins C, A, E <strong>and</strong> B3, as well<br />
as alpha <strong>and</strong> beta hydroxyl acids, help maintain cellular<br />
function <strong>and</strong> protect the skin against further damage,’ Suzie<br />
explains. ‘However, it is important to have a professional<br />
skin diagnosis to determine which products are best suited<br />
to your skin.’<br />
This consultation process is paramount in the philosophy<br />
of Clear Complexions Clinics. Before establishing any<br />
treatment or skincare program, each patient has a<br />
thorough <strong>and</strong> lengthy consultation to address skincare<br />
history, concerns, desires <strong>and</strong> expectations. In this, Clear<br />
Complexions Clinics use the latest diagnostic software to<br />
accurately examine the skin below its surface.<br />
‘Essentially, we want a “map” of the skin to ascertain<br />
exactly what is needed to bring it back to optimal health<br />
<strong>and</strong> radiance,’ says Suzie. ‘With the imaging results as a<br />
guide, the patient will be educated in underst<strong>and</strong>ing the<br />
true state of their skin <strong>and</strong> provided with a path forward in<br />
skin care <strong>and</strong> treatment. The process of diagnostic imaging<br />
is not only about safety <strong>and</strong> choosing the right treatment<br />
for the client, it’s also about education. The patient needs<br />
to underst<strong>and</strong> how <strong>and</strong> why we’re going to repair, maintain<br />
<strong>and</strong> prevent further damage to their skin.’<br />
2BEFORE<br />
3BEFORE<br />
BEFORE<br />
AFTER pigmentation treatment (actual client<br />
of Clear Complexions Clinic)<br />
AFTER two IPL treatments for pigmentation<br />
(actual client of Clear Complexions Clinic)<br />
AFTER Fraxel treatment (actual client of Clear<br />
Complexions Clinic)<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 141
ANTI AGEING<br />
skin<br />
let’s get personal<br />
THE TEAM AT SKIN CLINIC@BLYSS TAKES A PERSONALISED AND HOLISTIC<br />
APPROACH WITH EACH PATIENT TO ACHIEVE OPTIMUM ANTI-AGEING RESULTS.<br />
CAITLIN BISHOP REPORTS.<br />
Strong genes <strong>and</strong> quality skincare can be invaluable<br />
when it comes to ageing gracefully, but the impact<br />
of external stressors can accelerate <strong>and</strong> magnify<br />
the natural ageing process. Too much time in the sun, or<br />
even that extra glass of wine, can play out in the form of<br />
premature lines <strong>and</strong> wrinkles on the face. Skin Clinic@<br />
Blyss offers a variety of anti-ageing treatments – from skin<br />
resurfacing to photodynamic light therapy – to help restore<br />
youthfulness <strong>and</strong> vibrancy to any complexion.<br />
‘We’re passionate about skin health <strong>and</strong> are committed<br />
to helping clients achieve fresh, bright <strong>and</strong> luminous skin,’<br />
says Jodie King, who established the clinic 15 years ago.<br />
A personalised approach lies at the heart of King’s<br />
philosophy. No two skins are alike, <strong>and</strong> the importance of<br />
incorporating multiple modalities into an individual treatment<br />
regime is paramount to achieving the best results for each<br />
client. ‘What works for one person won’t necessarily work<br />
for another,’ King explains. ‘We get to know each patient<br />
– their skin concerns <strong>and</strong> lifestyle factors – <strong>and</strong> stay up-todate<br />
with the latest skincare technologies <strong>and</strong> devices to<br />
offer our clients advanced treatments <strong>and</strong> optimal results.’<br />
This level of personalisation is also represented in ‘Man<br />
Time’, a time slot solely dedicated to men, offering a range<br />
of targeted techniques. ‘We’ve implemented “Man Time”<br />
to change the feel of what is traditionally seen as a female<br />
domain,’ says King. ‘Men have an oilier <strong>and</strong> thicker skin (up<br />
to 25 percent thicker) than women, <strong>and</strong> a different treatment<br />
approach is needed to achieve the best results. The male<br />
skin responds very well to any resurfacing treatments,<br />
designed to unclog pores <strong>and</strong> brighten the skin.’<br />
142 www.cosbeauty.com.au
Facial ageing, in both men <strong>and</strong> women, incurs a<br />
number of changes to the underlying structures of the<br />
face. Diminished soft tissue volume, a decline in collagen<br />
<strong>and</strong> elastin, <strong>and</strong> changes to the skeletal structure can<br />
cause facial hollows <strong>and</strong> contribute to an aged, or ‘gaunt’<br />
appearance. Fillers <strong>and</strong> anti-wrinkle injections help restore<br />
lost volume <strong>and</strong> create smoother, more youthful contours in<br />
the ageing face.<br />
‘Our cosmetic injector, Dr Stephanie Hyams, has more<br />
than 16 years experience <strong>and</strong> will discuss the best options<br />
for each patient when it comes to cosmetic injections,’ says<br />
King. ‘We believe in a “fresh, not frozen” approach <strong>and</strong><br />
always aim to ensure patients leave with a natural-looking,<br />
youthful appearance.’<br />
Injectables can go a long way in rejuvenating the face, but<br />
the team at Skin Clinic@Blyss takes an all-encompassing,<br />
holistic approach to anti-ageing. By using a range of<br />
We’re passionate about<br />
skin health <strong>and</strong> are committed<br />
to helping clients maintain<br />
skin that is fresh, bright<br />
<strong>and</strong> luminous<br />
treatments to enhance skin health <strong>and</strong> slow the process of<br />
ageing, longer-lasting <strong>and</strong> more natural-looking results can<br />
be achieved.<br />
‘Looking youthful isn’t just about eliminating fine lines<br />
<strong>and</strong> wrinkles,’ King says. ‘It’s also important to address the<br />
underlying health of the skin, improving its tone <strong>and</strong> texture<br />
<strong>and</strong> evening any pigmentation.’<br />
Minimally invasive treatments, which incur little or no<br />
down time, are popular options for those looking to boost<br />
skin health <strong>and</strong> strengthen the skin’s resilience. For example,<br />
microhydrabrasion – a two-part exfoliation technique – is<br />
effective in cleansing <strong>and</strong> unclogging the skin. While certain<br />
light therapies,<br />
pure<br />
such as LED or Intense<br />
blyss<br />
Pulsed Light (IPL),<br />
help stimulate cellular activity in the dermis to improve the<br />
click<br />
here<br />
Off<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au<br />
Put your best<br />
face forward with<br />
Skin CliniC<br />
Specialising in advanced non-surgical<br />
treatments for problem skin, anti-ageing,<br />
<strong>and</strong> damaged skin, Blyss Skin Clinic Clovelly<br />
uses the latest technology in medical<br />
needling, iPl, Photofacials, resurfacing <strong>and</strong><br />
ionzyme treatments. our highly qualified<br />
skin care therapists have been achieving<br />
amazing results for over 15 years using<br />
trusted techniques.<br />
our relaxed <strong>and</strong> discreet atmosphere will<br />
leave you feeling refreshed <strong>and</strong> confidant.<br />
treatments<br />
• ionzyme treatments<br />
• Platelet-rich Plasma<br />
• lED Photofacials<br />
• iPl Photorejuvenation<br />
• Photodynamic therapy<br />
• Facials<br />
• resurfacing<br />
• Dermaroller<br />
• Anti-wrinkle injections<br />
• Dermal Fillers<br />
• Eye treatments<br />
appearance of photo-aged skin.<br />
With each treatment, the practitioners at Skin Clinic@ • Permanent hair<br />
Blyss offer GeT advice yOur on friends optimising TO results like through us On home facebOOk care <strong>and</strong> yOu reduction will receive (iPl)<br />
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shop to rejuvenate the skin, purify the complexion <strong>and</strong><br />
combat the signs of premature ageing – or too much red<br />
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phone 02 9664 8011<br />
shop 2/214 clovelly road,<br />
clovelly Nsw 2031<br />
www.blyssclovelly.com.au<br />
TreaT DaD This<br />
FaTher’s Day To The<br />
King For a Day ‘Man
hair reduction<br />
One for the Blondes<br />
At last, those with FAIr hair can enjoy the luxury <strong>and</strong><br />
convenience of permanent hair removal with the AdÉna IPL system.<br />
Caitlin Bishop reports.<br />
Today, a variety of lasers can be used to reduce hair<br />
growth in unwanted areas. However, until recently, the<br />
effectiveness of permanent hair reduction depended<br />
on several factors, <strong>and</strong> generally only people with dark hair<br />
<strong>and</strong> pale skin types could enjoy the benefits of laser <strong>and</strong><br />
intense pulsed light (IPL).<br />
Adéna can be used to treat<br />
blonde, white, red <strong>and</strong> grey<br />
hair, <strong>and</strong> is also suitable for<br />
dark skin types<br />
Now, with the Adéna IPL system, those with blonde,<br />
grey, white or red hair, <strong>and</strong> darker skin tones, can achieve<br />
permanent hair reduction – no matter how fair their follicles.<br />
The long-term hair removal solution provided by laser<br />
<strong>and</strong> IPL has traditionally been unavailable to those with<br />
lighter hair shades <strong>and</strong> darker skin types. In revolutionising<br />
this paradigm, the Adéna IPL system has been specially<br />
designed to conquer hair growth in these notoriously<br />
difficult-to-treat hair shades. ‘Adéna can treat blonde,<br />
white, red <strong>and</strong> grey hair, <strong>and</strong> is also suitable for dark skin<br />
types,’ says Eva Karpati, aesthetician <strong>and</strong> owner of Karpati<br />
Medispa in Sydney’s Double Bay.<br />
The Adéna IPL system, manufactured in France, uses<br />
light energy to remove hair as it proceeds through the<br />
growth cycle.<br />
‘Like other hair removal systems, Adéna only treats<br />
hairs in the anagen, or growth phase,’ explains Karpati.<br />
‘Because not all hairs are growing at the same time –<br />
some are in transition <strong>and</strong> others are resting – it can take<br />
anywhere between four to six treatments to successfully<br />
reduce the hair in any one area.’<br />
With traditional hair removal systems, the treatment<br />
area is exposed to high intensity flashes of filtered light.<br />
The energy from this light is absorbed by the chromophore<br />
melanin, which is responsible for hair pigment or colour.<br />
Because dark hair is rich in melanin, the light energy<br />
is readily absorbed into the hair follicle <strong>and</strong> surrounding<br />
capillaries. This incurs a thermal response <strong>and</strong> the tiny<br />
blood vessels, which supply blood to growing hairs, are<br />
destroyed. This reliance on melanin is what makes lighter<br />
hair colours so difficult to treat.<br />
144 www.cosbeauty.com.au
Adéna IPL is unique in that it targets the blood vessels<br />
directly – bypassing the pigment – to prevent the growth of<br />
blonde, grey, white <strong>and</strong> red hairs.<br />
‘The difference between Adéna <strong>and</strong> other IPL systems is<br />
that it offers a second applicator head, which emits different<br />
wavelengths to target the blood vessels surrounding a<br />
different chromophore – haemoglobin – allowing it to treat<br />
blonde, grey, white <strong>and</strong> red hair,’ Karpati explains.<br />
During treatment, the blood vessels supplying the hair<br />
follicle are coagulated – preventing further hair growth.<br />
Notably, the Adéna system can also be used in facial<br />
rejuvenation. It is effective in treating a number of skin<br />
conditions, <strong>and</strong> can be used to help reduce rosacea,<br />
pigmentation <strong>and</strong> spider veins.<br />
Treatment with Adéna is speedy <strong>and</strong> typically involves<br />
no downtime. Long-lasting hair removal can be achieved<br />
in a series of short sessions, <strong>and</strong> facial rejuvenation can be<br />
performed in a single session.<br />
‘The Adéna system is a versatile, multi-programmed<br />
system that can address a wide range of cosmetic<br />
concerns,’ Karpati says. ‘For fair-haired or dark-skinned<br />
people wishing to remove unwanted body hair, the Adéna<br />
offers a giant leap forward in permanent hair reduction<br />
technology.’ csbm<br />
DURING the first week after treatment with<br />
the Adéna IPL system<br />
BEFORE<br />
AFTER treatment with the Adéna IPL system<br />
AFTER treatment with the Adéna IPL system<br />
skin<br />
FACE<br />
BoDy<br />
MIND<br />
advanced cosmetic Procedures<br />
PRE/POST OPERaTivE CaRE<br />
aCNE TREaTMENT<br />
Safe • Effective • all Skin Types<br />
SCaR TREaTMENT<br />
Safe • Effective<br />
LED SKiN ThERaPy<br />
Lumavescence MKii – Photomodulation<br />
Blue • Red • infrared<br />
SKiN REjuvENaTiON<br />
Sun Damage • age Spots • Freckles<br />
FRaCTiONaL LaSER (NEW!)<br />
Non-Ablative<br />
Wrinkles • Open Pores • Scars • Stretch Marks • Tone<br />
MaTRiX iR WRiNKLE REDuCTiON<br />
Safe • Non-invasive • No Downtime • No Discomfort<br />
REFiRME SKiN TighTENiNg<br />
Safe • Non-invasive • No Downtime • No Discomfort<br />
TRiNiTy <br />
Rejuvenation • ReFirm • Matrix iR <br />
REMOvaL OF hyPERPigMENTaTiON<br />
Melasma • Liver Spots • age Spots<br />
vaSCuLaR TREaTMENTS<br />
Removal of Broken Capillaries • Telangiectasia<br />
acne Rosacea • Diffuse Redness<br />
PERMaNENT haiR REDuCTiON<br />
iPL • Laser • all Skin Types<br />
aDENa © (NEW!) hair Removal - Blonde • White • grey • Red<br />
BODy REShaPiNg<br />
CELLuLiTE REDuCTiON/FaT CaviTaTiON<br />
Dermeo ® (NEW!) • Lumologie ® • Endermologie • velaShape <br />
BEFORE<br />
AFTER treatment with the Adéna IPL system<br />
17 Bay Street, Double Bay NSW Australia 2028<br />
Ph: +61 2 9363 2395 | +61 2 9009 6568<br />
Email: info@karpatimedispa.com.au<br />
Web: www.karpatimedispa.com.au<br />
/karpatimedispa<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au
cosmetic tattoo<br />
Living art<br />
Make the most of your facial features <strong>and</strong> enhance your look<br />
with cosmetic tattooing. Sydney cosmetic tattooist<br />
Rita Porreca tells us how. tara casey reports.<br />
Offering a non-surgical alternative to cosmetic<br />
enhancement, Sydney cosmetic tattoo practitioner<br />
Rita Porreca says cosmetic tattooing is quickly<br />
becoming known as an effective facial rejuvenation<br />
technique. ‘The art of cosmetic tattooing is becoming<br />
cemented in the beauty industry, with a range of treatments<br />
available to suit a variety of client needs,’ she says. ‘With<br />
today’s techniques, the beauty of your youth can be<br />
extended, <strong>and</strong> even enhanced.’<br />
The results of cosmetic tattooing come down to the<br />
artistic skill <strong>and</strong> experience of the practitioner. ‘No two<br />
cosmetic tattooists are the same because it is very much an<br />
art form,’ says Porreca. ‘Results that enhance the client’s<br />
beauty are dependant on the experience of the practitioner<br />
in working with different skin tones <strong>and</strong> facial features.’<br />
As well as enhancing <strong>and</strong> prolonging youthful beauty,<br />
Porreca says cosmetic tattooing, also known as permanent<br />
makeup, can create hassle-free mornings for those with<br />
busy lifestyles. With a rainbow of pigments to choose<br />
from, permanent makeup means you can sleep, swim <strong>and</strong><br />
exercise without the smudge factor.<br />
Combining long-lasting eyeliner with eyebrow tattooing<br />
can help restore vibrancy <strong>and</strong> youthfulness to the entire<br />
eye area <strong>and</strong> help those who have plucked too much, or<br />
have scars or gaps in their eyebrows, create the look of<br />
beautifully manicured eyebrows. Similarly, lip tattooing can<br />
often be an ideal option for women lacking a definite lip<br />
shape, who have pale lips or just want to enhance the<br />
appearance of their pout.<br />
Porreca says clients should be aware that the colour<br />
may seem stronger at first but this will fade to a more<br />
natural-looking colour. ‘Immediately after the treatment,<br />
the cosmetic tattoo will appear brighter in colour. However,<br />
in most cases clients lose approximately 20 to 40 percent<br />
146 www.cosbeauty.com.au
of intense colour throughout the healing process,’ she<br />
explains. ‘Final results are usually apparent after around<br />
SPMUC FP(NEW) 30/4/07 1:30 PM Page 1<br />
two weeks.’<br />
Other cosmetic tattoo uses<br />
timeless <strong>and</strong><br />
Paramedical cosmetic tattooing can be used to recreate<br />
timeless<br />
the areola of the breast, improve skin<br />
<strong>and</strong><br />
discolouration <strong>and</strong><br />
help disguise the appearance of scars.<br />
Women who have recently undergone reconstructive effortless beauty<br />
breast surgery often opt for areola tattoo treatment.<br />
‘Paramedical cosmetic tattooing can help restore a<br />
SPMUC woman’s FP(NEW) self-confidence, 30/4/07 1:30 particularly PM Page for 1 those who have ‘In When 1984 it my comes dream to eyes, was to lips, create face, a<br />
undergone a mastectomy – it can really help them during Centre body, skin that <strong>and</strong> provided training, personalised we are the<br />
their healing process,’ says Porreca.<br />
beauty experts’ solutions expert. With with more natural than <strong>and</strong> 22<br />
<strong>Cosmetic</strong> tattooing can also improve the appearance lasting years’ experience results – a world we have above developed<br />
of vitiligo, a disease characterised by patches of skin traditional an excellent beauty reputation salons.’ with doctors<br />
discolouration where there is a loss of natural skin – <strong>and</strong> Rita surgeons. Porreca, We Founder also work & MDclosely<br />
timeless <strong>and</strong> effortless<br />
with surgeons in post-operative<br />
beauty<br />
pigmentation, by camouflaging the diseased spots. It can<br />
care.<br />
also recreate the look of hair for alopecia sufferers, a health When – Rita it Porreca, comes to Founder Eyes, Lips, & MDFace, Body, Skin <strong>and</strong><br />
condition deriving from the immune system (white blood Training<br />
SPCP,<br />
we<br />
AAM,<br />
are<br />
AACT,<br />
the experts'<br />
APAA<br />
expert. We also work closely<br />
cells) which results in the arrest of the hair growth stage, with surgeons on post-operative care.<br />
including facial hair.<br />
When seeking help with skin <strong>and</strong> hair conditions such ‘In 1984 my dream was to create a<br />
SERVICES WE PROVIDE<br />
as vitiligo <strong>and</strong> alopecia, Porreca emphasises that patients<br />
Centre that provided personalised<br />
SERVICES WE PROVIDE<br />
beauty solutions with natural <strong>and</strong><br />
should seek the help of a cosmetic tattooist with experience<br />
<strong>Cosmetic</strong> Tattooing<br />
lasting results – a world above<br />
in <strong>Cosmetic</strong> paramedical Tattooing tattooing to avoid unsafe conditions <strong>and</strong><br />
traditional beauty Medical salons.’ Tattooing<br />
unsatisfactory Eyebrows Hair results. stroke to shaded brows to give you more of a<br />
– Rita Porreca, Founder Skin & Needling<br />
MD<br />
natural ‘Whether appearance for cosmetic or paramedical purposes, when<br />
performed BEFORE<br />
Eyeliner Subtle by an to experienced, Dramatic or artistic to define <strong>and</strong> your highly eye skilled<br />
Dermal Planning Peels<br />
shape<br />
practitioner, cosmetic tattoo treatments can significantly When it comes<br />
Lips From lip liner to full lips & blends we make your lips look good with Non to Laser Eyes, Lips, Tattoo Face, Removal<br />
Body, Skin <strong>and</strong><br />
enhance a person’s appearance <strong>and</strong>, in turn, their selfesteem,’<br />
she says.<br />
Training we are the experts' expert. We also work closely<br />
an ideal shape <strong>and</strong> colour all the time.<br />
with surgeons <strong>Cosmetic</strong> on post-operative Tattooing care. Courses<br />
Medical <strong>Cosmetic</strong> Tattooing tattooing is a long-lasting treatment that can<br />
last Areola from re-pigmentation around two to six Is years. the final Porreca stage says of breast clients reconstruction <strong>and</strong> is AFTER FULL LIP TATTOOING<br />
are also often considered concerned by the those result with will areola appear colour fake loss. or ‘done’<br />
SERVICES WE PROVIDE<br />
– Corrective something Camouflage she avoids by Can using bring two a to natural three skin different colour back to scars<br />
<strong>Cosmetic</strong> colours <strong>and</strong> burns in the Tattooing one treatment for a more realistic effect.<br />
Eyebrows Hair stroke to shaded brows to give you more of a BEFORE FULL LIP COLOUR<br />
AFTER FULL LIP COSMETIC TATTOOING<br />
‘The most important thing to remember for both<br />
natural practitioners Skin Needling appearance <strong>and</strong> clients is “less is more”. <strong>Cosmetic</strong><br />
Eyeliner Needling Subtle treatment to Dramatic for wrinkles, or to acne define scars your & eye scar shape relaxation<br />
BEFORE<br />
tattooing can provide clients with a fresh, more youthfullooking<br />
BEFORE<br />
Lips Skin From Rejuvenation<br />
face lip <strong>and</strong> liner a sense to full of lips refined & blends beauty, we as make well as your help lips look good with<br />
an to Is camouflage ideal for shape the skin rebuilding <strong>and</strong> imperfections colour of all new the associated collagen time. <strong>and</strong> with lightening certain pigmentation.<br />
BEFORE EYE LINER TOP AND BOTTOM<br />
AFTER EYE LINER TOP AND BOTTOM<br />
diseases,’ she concludes. csbm<br />
Medical IPL Hair Tattooing Removal<br />
Areola Enables re-pigmentation hair removal from Is nearly the final every stage part of of breast the body reconstruction quickly <strong>and</strong> is AFTER FULL LIP TATTOOING<br />
also AFTER EYEBROW TATTOOING<br />
<strong>and</strong> Scar efficiently considered therapy by those with areola colour loss.<br />
Corrective Porreca also Camouflage performs a Can skin bring relaxation a natural treatment, skin colour back to scars<br />
<strong>and</strong><br />
Medical<br />
burns<br />
Skin Peels/Microdermabrasion<br />
BEFORE EYEBROW TATTOOING<br />
AFTER EYEBROW TATTOOING<br />
Multitrepannic Collagen Actuation (MCA), which<br />
Skin treatments ranging from Green Peel, CosMedix Peels<br />
helps to rejuvenate scar tissue <strong>and</strong> stimulate the skin<br />
Skin & Microdermabrasion Needling to give you a natural healthy glow.<br />
to produce its own melanin in areas where surface<br />
Needling treatment for wrinkles, acne scars & scar relaxation<br />
<strong>Cosmetic</strong> scar tissue Dermal is present Fillers after & injury Mesotherapy or surgery. This skin 02 9569 BEFORE 7799 follow us on<br />
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Level 1, 157 Great North Road<br />
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Learn, up-skill <strong>and</strong> exp<strong>and</strong> with professional cosmetic tattooing Five training.<br />
AFTER AEROLA TATTOOING<br />
Dock NSW 2046<br />
IPL Hair Removal<br />
Email: info@spmuc.com.au<br />
Enables hair removal from nearly every part of the body quickly Web: www.spmuc.com.au<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au<br />
AFTER EYEBROW TATTOOING<br />
<strong>and</strong> efficiently
anti ageing<br />
skin<br />
4<br />
steps to<br />
beautiful skin<br />
Keep the signs of ageing at bay with Love Life, a br<strong>and</strong> new skincare<br />
range from HOVAN’s Group. Nicola DONOVAN REPORTS.<br />
Optimise skin health, fight those pesky lines <strong>and</strong><br />
add radiance to your complexion with the Love<br />
Life skincare range, developed by industry veteran<br />
Val Glover-Hovan. Formulated after years of research with<br />
Australian bioscientists, the range helps promote healthier<br />
<strong>and</strong> more beautiful skin – in four easy-to-use products.<br />
As we age, our skin requires extra care <strong>and</strong><br />
support, <strong>and</strong> the new Love Life skincare range can<br />
help keep the signs of ageing at bay. Ingredients in the<br />
results-driven products have been selected for their ability<br />
to help protect skin cells from environmental damage,<br />
support skin metabolism <strong>and</strong> promote rejuvenation.<br />
1<br />
Moisturise & protect<br />
Perfect Day – Anti-Ageing Moisturiser. Moisturising<br />
is crucial when it comes to warding off fine lines <strong>and</strong><br />
keeping skin well hydrated. A potent herbal formula,<br />
Perfect Day Moisturiser helps to reduce the signs of ageing<br />
<strong>and</strong> enhance skin appearance. The formula contains<br />
a complex of collagen-promoting glucosaminoplycans<br />
<strong>and</strong> galactomannans; linoleic acids, which assist rapid<br />
penetration while helping to firm the skin; <strong>and</strong> stem cells of<br />
apple fruit to help stimulate the renewal of skin cells.<br />
2<br />
Repair & renew<br />
Perfect Night – Retinol Renewal Complex. Serums<br />
typically penetrate the skin deeper than creams, <strong>and</strong><br />
contain more active ingredients to target specific beauty<br />
concerns. The Perfect Night Retinol Renewal Complex is a<br />
soothing night serum that addresses ageing concerns. The<br />
formula contains Vitamin A to enhance collagen synthesis;<br />
linoleic acid to promote <strong>and</strong> maintain skin health; Vitamin E<br />
<strong>and</strong> Tamanu oil to restore skin health; seabuckthorn seed<br />
oil as an antioxidant; passionflower to sooth <strong>and</strong> calm; <strong>and</strong><br />
licorice to reduce inflammation <strong>and</strong> irritation.<br />
3<br />
Bright eyes<br />
Eyes Best – Exotic Eye Gel. Eye creams are essential for<br />
helping to keep the thin, delicate under-eye area hydrated<br />
<strong>and</strong> smooth. This potent eye cream helps to reduce the<br />
dark areas under the eyes <strong>and</strong> the appearance of crow’s<br />
feet. The formula contains Tamanu oil, which is known<br />
for its healing properties, <strong>and</strong> a mix of herbs to stimulate<br />
collagen synthesis. It’s also fortified with kiwifruit enzymes,<br />
antioxidant grape seed, Vitamin E <strong>and</strong> green tea.<br />
4<br />
Lighten up<br />
<strong>Beauty</strong> Light – Lightening Cream. Hyperpigmentation<br />
can develop due to a variety of reasons – from sun damage<br />
to hormones during pregnancy. Often making skin tone<br />
uneven, pigmentation is a common beauty concern. Alpha<br />
fruit acids <strong>and</strong> citrus extract in the <strong>Beauty</strong> Light Lightening<br />
Cream target darker skin spots to help reduce their<br />
appearance. The cream has a broad-spectrum sunscreen<br />
to help prevent further pigmentation <strong>and</strong> UV damage, as<br />
well as the triple action of urva-ursi (bearberry), arbutin<br />
<strong>and</strong> zinc glycinate to help stop the browning action of<br />
melanocyte production. csbm<br />
148 www.cosbeauty.com.au
feature<br />
STOP<br />
THE<br />
PRESS!<br />
Did that get<br />
your attention?<br />
HERE’S WHY:<br />
Print ads rank #1 for comm<strong>and</strong>ing<br />
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Print magazines rank #1 for<br />
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<strong>Magazine</strong>s are #1 for reader<br />
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* Source: Adobe Systems Click Here Study, October 2012<br />
** Source: ORC Caravan, February 2013<br />
Why integrate print <strong>and</strong> digital?<br />
It’s never been more important to have an integrated print<br />
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At Bella Media, we have embraced this next-generation<br />
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Hair Restoration by<br />
Dr Russell Knudsen<br />
Your name here<br />
Call our expert team to fi nd out more about our bespoke<br />
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Email: lauren@bellamedia.com.au<br />
www.bellamedia.com.au<br />
Plastic <strong>Surgery</strong> by<br />
Dr Warwick Nettle
feature<br />
Age<br />
– it’s a<br />
numbers<br />
game!<br />
ALTHOUGH WE ALL AGE<br />
DIFFERENTLY – THANKS TO<br />
GENETICS, LIFESTYLE AND<br />
ENVIRONMENTAL FACTORS –<br />
THERE ARE CERTAIN<br />
AGE-RELATED CHANGES<br />
COMMON TO US ALL<br />
THROUGHOUT THE DECADES.<br />
AIMÉE SURTENICH REPORTS.<br />
20s<br />
Accumulated sun damage can begin to<br />
show on the face, manifesting as fi ne lines<br />
<strong>and</strong> increased pore size. Skin cell turnover<br />
is still rapid, however there is a mild drop<br />
in dermal repair, the immune system <strong>and</strong><br />
collagen synthesis.<br />
Muscles also start to lose fullness <strong>and</strong><br />
fi rmness due to shrinkage of muscle fi bres.<br />
In addition, metabolism, the rate at which<br />
the body burns calories at rest, slows down<br />
by about two percent per decade from the<br />
age of 20, <strong>and</strong> the number of calories the<br />
body needs gradually declines.<br />
150 www.cosbeauty.com.au
feature<br />
30s<br />
More fine lines are evident around the eyes <strong>and</strong> mouth <strong>and</strong> the first<br />
wrinkles start to appear. Early signs of sagging near the eyes also<br />
become evident. There is a moderate decrease in dermal repair,<br />
resulting in less collagen <strong>and</strong> some loss of elasticity. There is also a<br />
significant drop in skin hydration, <strong>and</strong> the skin’s natural process of exfoliation begins to<br />
slow. Pigmentation may start to appear in response to a reduction of pigment-producing<br />
melanocytes that help protect against ultraviolet radiation.<br />
Loss of facial volume can start to occur in the 30s <strong>and</strong> continues to progress with age.<br />
Volume loss caused by tissue atrophy <strong>and</strong> bone resorption as well as increased skin laxity<br />
makes the face look deflated <strong>and</strong> drawn compared to the full roundness of a younger face.<br />
The decline in cardiovascular fitness begins in the 30s, <strong>and</strong> can drop 30 to 40 percent<br />
by age 65. Gradual loss of bone strength <strong>and</strong> density also starts around 35.<br />
From age 30, hair follicles produce less melanin, leading to greying, <strong>and</strong> hair follicles<br />
eventually turning white. It is at this age that around 25 percent of men begin to show<br />
some signs of baldness.<br />
anti ageing<br />
40s<br />
As the sebaceous gl<strong>and</strong>s in the skin cut<br />
back production <strong>and</strong> supportive fibres grow<br />
less elastic, skin becomes drier <strong>and</strong> thinner,<br />
resulting in more wrinkles, roughened<br />
skin texture <strong>and</strong> larger pore size. Signs of<br />
photodamage are more visible: freckles,<br />
pigmentation, discolouration (age spots) <strong>and</strong><br />
changes in skin colour. Sagging near the eyes<br />
<strong>and</strong> cheeks becomes more noticeable.<br />
The lens in the eye also begins to lose<br />
elasticity <strong>and</strong> flexibility, making it less able to<br />
focus on close objects.<br />
Muscles continue to shrink as fat deposits<br />
exp<strong>and</strong>, making it more difficult to control<br />
weight, <strong>and</strong> fat tissues are increasingly<br />
deposited towards the centre of the body.<br />
Inflammation, pain <strong>and</strong> stiffness may result<br />
from the breakdown of the joint structures <strong>and</strong><br />
changes in connective tissue.<br />
50s+<br />
By the age of 50, compromised dermal repair, low production of<br />
collagen <strong>and</strong> sebum <strong>and</strong> an abundance of damaged connective<br />
tissue all become evident as wrinkles start to appear at the<br />
corners of the mouth <strong>and</strong> skin loosens <strong>and</strong> sags in the cheeks,<br />
jowls <strong>and</strong> neck. Skin tone becomes more irregular <strong>and</strong> uneven<br />
in colour, <strong>and</strong> thinning skin starts to lose its natural protective<br />
barrier <strong>and</strong> becomes more susceptible to environmental factors.<br />
In addition to the ageing effects on the skin, the decline in<br />
oestrogen <strong>and</strong> progesterone accelerates bone loss <strong>and</strong> raises<br />
cholesterol levels, increasing the risk for osteoporosis, heart<br />
attack <strong>and</strong> stroke. Immunity is also likely to start to weaken,<br />
making the body more susceptible to infections <strong>and</strong> disease.<br />
Bone mass <strong>and</strong> density is reduced <strong>and</strong> joints become<br />
stiffer <strong>and</strong> less flexible. Fluid in the joints may decrease <strong>and</strong> the<br />
cartilage may begin to rub together <strong>and</strong> erode.<br />
The rate of hair growth slows, as hair follicles begin to stop<br />
producing new hairs. At the same time, women may notice<br />
coarse facial hair, especially on the chin <strong>and</strong> upper lip.<br />
Ageing is the natural wear <strong>and</strong> tear of the body’s component<br />
parts. While it cannot be stopped, a healthy lifestyle that<br />
includes a diet rich in antioxidants can help retard or reverse<br />
many age-related changes.<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 151
skin<br />
THE<br />
THREE<br />
Ts OF<br />
AGEING<br />
TERRI VINSON BSc, COSMETIC CHEMIST AND FOUNDER OF SYNERGIE SKIN,<br />
EXPLORES THE RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN INFLAMMATION AND AGEING, AND HOW<br />
TO ADDRESS THE TONE, TEXTURE AND TIGHTNESS OF AGEING SKIN.<br />
AGEING & INFLAMMATION<br />
Every adverse skin condition has one common element:<br />
infl ammation. Most chronic skin conditions such as acne,<br />
rosacea, dermatitis, psoriasis <strong>and</strong> eczema are simply<br />
infl ammatory responses of the skin to irritation.<br />
Infl ammation leads to impairment of cell function <strong>and</strong> is<br />
also considered the basis of cellular ageing. While ageing is<br />
a disease, it is controllable but not curable.<br />
Infl ammation is the body’s initial immune response<br />
to infection or irritation. The infl ammatory response is<br />
designed to destroy invading organisms or repair damage,<br />
thus enabling us to survive disease <strong>and</strong> trauma.<br />
Ironically, infl ammation also bombards tissues with free<br />
radicals <strong>and</strong> promotes oxidation <strong>and</strong> destruction of normal<br />
healthy cells.<br />
The following list of cellular events occurs in response<br />
to infl ammation:<br />
• Increased blood fl ow to the damaged area<br />
• Migration of immune cells to the affected area<br />
• Release of large amounts of free radicals<br />
• Destruction of normal tissue<br />
• Deposition of scar tissue.<br />
If these events are repeated over prolonged periods,<br />
this chronic infl ammation results in rhytids (wrinkles),<br />
enlarged pores, skin laxity, hyperpigmentation or visible<br />
blood vessels.<br />
Controlling infl ammation is essential to addressing skin<br />
ageing. It follows that anti-infl ammatory ingredients are<br />
essential in reversing the cycle that accelerates skin ageing.<br />
On a cellular level this presents as depletion in optimal levels<br />
of vital molecules such as collagen, elastin, hyaluronic acid<br />
<strong>and</strong> skin specifi c growth factors.<br />
One of the most notable anti-infl ammatory ingredients is<br />
niacinamide. This molecule must be formulated in suffi cient<br />
concentration <strong>and</strong> at the optimal pH to positively affect<br />
the cells. Other ingredients include stable L-ascorbic acid,<br />
Canadian willowherb, aloe vera, chamomile the new marine<br />
microbial sugars such as Phycosaccharide.<br />
Zinc oxide is also a powerful anti-infl ammatory <strong>and</strong> will<br />
provide UV protective benefi ts in some br<strong>and</strong>s of mineral<br />
makeup <strong>and</strong> mineral sunblock moisturisers. Look for levels<br />
of at least 20 percent zinc oxide.<br />
Antioxidants are also crucial to a long-term anti-ageing<br />
routine as they reduce cellular infl ammation by neutralising<br />
destructive free radicals.<br />
There are numerous topical antioxidants on the market.<br />
The more powerful ingredients include Vitamin C (as<br />
L-ascorbic acid), green tea, olive leaf extract lycopene,<br />
resveratrol <strong>and</strong> Vitamin E.<br />
152 www.cosbeauty.com.au
ADDRESSING THE SIGNS OF AGEING<br />
skin<br />
There are three signifi cant aspects linked to the morphology of the ageing face. These are primarily loss of tone, texture<br />
<strong>and</strong> tightness.<br />
One facet cannot be considered independently of the others. A woman with a fi rm, taut face following a surgical facelift<br />
will look incongruous if she still exhibits pigmentation, dryness <strong>and</strong> enlarged pores. The ideal cosmetic outcome for a<br />
patient will not be achieved unless all these elements are addressed. Moreover, topical cosmeceuticals are essential to<br />
achieving <strong>and</strong> maintaining optimal outcomes.<br />
ANTI AGEING<br />
1. 2.<br />
TONE<br />
This is primarily based on uneven skin<br />
colour. This may be due to general<br />
sun damage, melasma or postinfl<br />
ammatory hyperpigmentation. When<br />
treating hyperpigmentation, initial<br />
treatment involves the use of active<br />
topical ingredients. These ingredients<br />
may inhibit tyrosinase <strong>and</strong> minimise<br />
melanin production. Non-prescription<br />
examples include retinols, kojic acid,<br />
liquorice extract <strong>and</strong> L-ascorbic acid.<br />
Other topicals may remove surface<br />
pigmentation via chemical exfoliation<br />
(lactic acid, glycolic acid <strong>and</strong> m<strong>and</strong>elic<br />
acid). Finally, ingredients such as<br />
niacinamide address pigmentation on<br />
another cellular level by preventing<br />
transfer of melanin to the keratinocyte.<br />
Sun damage <strong>and</strong> age spots may be<br />
effectively treated with IPL, laser <strong>and</strong><br />
chemical peels. Clinicians generally<br />
opt for less invasive chemical peels<br />
using lactic acid over phenol, TCA <strong>and</strong><br />
high level glycolics. Photo Dynamic<br />
Therapy (PDT) is gaining popularity<br />
as it simultaneously addresses sun<br />
damage <strong>and</strong> benign skin lesions.<br />
Diffuse redness in conditions such<br />
as rosacea <strong>and</strong> poikiloderma may<br />
also be addressed with LED <strong>and</strong><br />
lasers targeting haemoglobin. Topical<br />
ingredients can reduce redness <strong>and</strong><br />
infl ammation as well as promoting<br />
healthier vascularity. Examples<br />
include niacinamide, chamomile, aloe,<br />
beta glucan, sea buckthorn oil, <strong>and</strong><br />
some antioxidants.<br />
TEXTURE<br />
During the ageing process surface<br />
textural changes also occur. Pores<br />
become enlarged <strong>and</strong> fi ne lines<br />
develop, particularly around the eyes,<br />
neck <strong>and</strong> mouth. The skin may also<br />
appear dry <strong>and</strong> fl aky due to a loss in the<br />
integrity of the outer stratum corneum.<br />
Textural changes are primarily due<br />
to loss of collagen, elastin <strong>and</strong> natural<br />
moisturising factors such as ceramide<br />
<strong>and</strong> hyaluronic acid. There are a<br />
number of clinical methods which may<br />
improve skin texture.<br />
The most popular method is via<br />
fractionated laser <strong>and</strong> is now preferred<br />
over ablative laser as the side effects<br />
<strong>and</strong> downtime are signifi cantly<br />
reduced. Skin needling or Collagen<br />
Induction Therapy (CIT) is another<br />
effective method of improving texture.<br />
In this modality skin is basically ‘tricked’<br />
into massive repair mode <strong>and</strong> collagen<br />
stimulation as numerous micro-injuries<br />
are created with the needles. A series<br />
of treatments is recommended.<br />
Topical ingredients to improve skin<br />
texture are based on products which<br />
stimulate collagen <strong>and</strong> replenish<br />
moisture levels in the skin with clinical<br />
data to support effi cacy. These include<br />
retinol, L-ascorbic acid, niacinamide,<br />
collagen-stimulating peptides, <strong>and</strong><br />
antioxidants <strong>and</strong> novel ingredients<br />
which are now able to stimulate stem<br />
cell production <strong>and</strong> repair cellular<br />
damage on a genetic level.<br />
3.<br />
TIGHTNESS<br />
As the human face ages there is a<br />
loss of volume due to fat <strong>and</strong> bone<br />
loss. Furthermore, the ligaments<br />
suspending the facial muscles lose<br />
elasticity <strong>and</strong> skin appears slack.<br />
Volume can effectively be restored with<br />
dermal fi llers <strong>and</strong> fat transfer.<br />
Various radiofrequency or infrared<br />
skin tightening devices are designed to<br />
bulk heat the lower dermis to stimulate<br />
large-scale collagen remodelling.<br />
Surgical facelifts combined with<br />
volume replacement are the most<br />
effective long-term method of<br />
reversing laxity. The modern facelift is<br />
now designed to achieve more natural<br />
results where the surgeon will work on<br />
the underlying muscles <strong>and</strong> ligaments<br />
rather than just tightening surface skin.<br />
Skincare in particular is fundamental<br />
to maintaining youthful skin. Unlike<br />
clinical treatments, products are<br />
used 365 days per year <strong>and</strong> therefore<br />
have a signifi cant bearing on overall<br />
skin health. The range must have<br />
scientifi cally proven active ingredients<br />
with effective delivery <strong>and</strong> high stability.<br />
There are many excellent treatment<br />
<strong>and</strong> skincare options available <strong>and</strong><br />
trained skin specialists will advise<br />
<strong>and</strong> educate on the correct procedure<br />
<strong>and</strong> products to address all skin<br />
concerns. csbm<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 153
anti ageing<br />
skin<br />
Put a<br />
stop to<br />
premature<br />
skin ageing<br />
Allmedic skincare can help<br />
protect the skin against harmful<br />
UV RADIATION <strong>and</strong> improve the<br />
appearance of sun-damaged skin.<br />
Caitlin Bishop REPORTS.<br />
The effects of sun damage are well-known – fine lines,<br />
discolouration, age spots <strong>and</strong> uneven texture – but<br />
it is not always possible to avoid exposure <strong>and</strong><br />
escape those premature signs of ageing. A quality skincare<br />
regime, with particular emphasis on protection <strong>and</strong> repair,<br />
can play a vital role in preventing further sun damage<br />
<strong>and</strong> reducing the outward appearance of ageing.<br />
Queensl<strong>and</strong> cosmetic physician Dr Doug Grose believes<br />
allmedic skincare contains the requisite ingredients, at<br />
effective concentrations, to help decelerate the skin’s<br />
ageing process. ‘Everyone should have a core range of<br />
skincare products they use every day, including a cleanser,<br />
exfoliator <strong>and</strong> sunscreen,’ he says.<br />
Sun protection is essential<br />
The key to healthy, youthful skin lies in prevention, <strong>and</strong><br />
sunscreens are the first line of defence against harmful<br />
ultraviolet radiation. By either reflecting or absorbing UV<br />
light, ingredients in sunscreens work to protect the skin <strong>and</strong><br />
inhibit the manifestation of photoageing.<br />
Notably, sunscreen from allmedic also contains<br />
Niacinamide, or Vitamin B3, to help hydrate the skin,<br />
reduce the appearance of skin discolouration <strong>and</strong> improve<br />
skin elasticity, tone <strong>and</strong> texture.<br />
The allmedic SPF 50+ Face <strong>and</strong> Body Moisturising<br />
Sunscreen protects against both UVA <strong>and</strong> UVB radiation.<br />
UVA is the dominant tanning ray, which deeply penetrates<br />
the skin <strong>and</strong> causes DNA damage to epidermal <strong>and</strong> dermal<br />
skin cells. UVB is responsible for reddening <strong>and</strong> sunburn,<br />
as it only penetrates the skin’s superficial layers. Both types<br />
of radiation contribute to sun cancer risk <strong>and</strong> can lead to<br />
premature ageing.<br />
Exfoliation matters<br />
Alongside sunscreen, exfoliation also works to protect the<br />
skin by stimulating cell renewal. According to Dr Grose,<br />
both mechanical <strong>and</strong> chemical exfoliation removes rough,<br />
dry, sun-damaged skin to increase cell turnover <strong>and</strong><br />
thicken the epidermis – factors that may help prohibit the<br />
development of skin cancer.<br />
‘If left untreated, rough, dry, sun-damaged skin can turn<br />
into a skin cancer,’ Dr Grose explains. ‘Once a skin cancer<br />
is detected, there is a greater risk of further skin cancers<br />
occurring in the surrounding area.’<br />
The allmedic exfoliating scrub is pH balanced to help<br />
bring <strong>and</strong> maintain the skin at the correct pH. It also contains<br />
medium-sized cellulose beads that work as a mechanical<br />
exfoliator to gently remove dead skin cells.<br />
Chemical exfoliation can be achieved through every<br />
day use of alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs). ‘Of all the AHAs,<br />
I believe glycolic acid is the most effective as it penetrates<br />
the deepest,’ says Dr Grose.<br />
‘The allmedic Face Repair Cream <strong>and</strong> Body Repair<br />
Cream contain active concentrations of glycolic acid in a low<br />
pH cream to maximise the effect of the AHAs <strong>and</strong> improve<br />
cell turnover,’ he continues.<br />
154 www.cosbeauty.com.au
Repair & renew<br />
allmedic skincare can help restore sun-damaged skin <strong>and</strong><br />
reduce the appearance of wrinkles, discolouration <strong>and</strong><br />
unevenness caused by sun damage. Moreover, the allmedic<br />
product range has been formulated to help restore <strong>and</strong><br />
maintain the function of the epidermis.<br />
The allmedic Night Repair Serum is designed to help<br />
accelerate skin renewal, smooth fine lines <strong>and</strong> lighten<br />
discolouration. The serum contains encapsulated Retinol<br />
(Vitamin A), to help stimulate collagen production in the<br />
dermis, <strong>and</strong> Niacinamide to help improve texture, increase<br />
hydration, <strong>and</strong> counter redness or inflammation.<br />
The marine enzyme Venuceane,<br />
used in allmedic products, is a<br />
powerful antioxidant<br />
An effective, global rejuvenation can be achieved<br />
when the serum is used in conjunction with the allmedic<br />
Eye Repair Cream. The eye cream is suitable for all skin<br />
types <strong>and</strong> is designed to help repair <strong>and</strong> firm the delicate<br />
skin around the eye area. It uses a unique blend of plant<br />
extracts, the marine enzyme Venuceane, moisturisers <strong>and</strong><br />
biopeptide technologies to improve microcirculation <strong>and</strong><br />
‘plump up’ the periorbital skin. csbm<br />
Photodynamic<br />
Therapy<br />
Photodynamic Therapy (PDT) can be used<br />
alongside an effective skincare regime to further<br />
help treat sun-damaged, blemished <strong>and</strong> aged skin .<br />
According to Dr Grose, by using PDT’s noninvasive<br />
light technology, practitioners can now<br />
treat a range of skin conditions in a relatively<br />
fast <strong>and</strong> affordable way with minimal side effects<br />
<strong>and</strong> downtime. ‘PDT helps improve the skin’s overall<br />
health, look <strong>and</strong> feel. It can also be effective in<br />
restoring youthfulness to areas that are otherwise<br />
difficult to treat, for example the chest, arms, h<strong>and</strong>s<br />
<strong>and</strong> legs,’ he continues.<br />
By combining modalities, <strong>and</strong> partnering PDT<br />
with a comprehensive <strong>and</strong> active skincare range, Dr<br />
Grose believes patients can look forward to more<br />
vibrant, healthy <strong>and</strong> resilient skin. ‘The allmedic range<br />
is a complete skincare solution, allowing patients to<br />
target specific skin issues, such as sun damage <strong>and</strong><br />
premature ageing, with products that are sciencebased,<br />
effective <strong>and</strong> affordable,’ he concludes.<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au<br />
Doctor Designed,<br />
Developed & Recommended<br />
Optimal<br />
Products to Repair <strong>and</strong><br />
Protect your skin<br />
ü<br />
o Exclusive supply to Doctors only<br />
o üEveryday skin repair <strong>and</strong><br />
protection product range<br />
o üScience <strong>and</strong> research supported<br />
o üAffordable, simple yet effective<br />
o üResults driven<br />
o üFree of problematic allergens<br />
o üSuitable for men <strong>and</strong> women<br />
o üLeaders in PDT <strong>and</strong> skin<br />
o Clinic education <strong>and</strong> training<br />
ü<br />
Repair the past, Treat the<br />
present & Protect the future<br />
Contact us on:<br />
1300 652 969<br />
admin@allmedic.org.au<br />
www.allmedic.org.au<br />
Everyday<br />
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allmedic
anti ageing<br />
skin<br />
Get<br />
the<br />
GLO!<br />
We shed light on the cult glo product range – from luxe makeup to<br />
anti-ageing cosmeceuticals. AimÉe Surtenich reports.<br />
Glominerals – for a perfect canvas<br />
Glo is committed to skin-nurturing products for people<br />
of all ages. Its leading mineral makeup line, glominerals,<br />
is packed with antioxidants <strong>and</strong> pharmaceutical-grade<br />
minerals, combining skin benefits with on-trend products to<br />
achieve a truly modern <strong>and</strong> flawless makeup look.<br />
The latest addition to the glominerals range is the Luxe<br />
Liquid Foundation. Diamonds really are a girl’s best friend;<br />
their prismatic structure causes light rays to refract <strong>and</strong> bend<br />
for a soft, ageless complexion. Luxe Liquid Foundation is<br />
formulated with light-diffusing diamond powder, broadspectrum<br />
UV protection <strong>and</strong> specialised moisturising agents<br />
that nourish <strong>and</strong> protect skin while delivering a flawless,<br />
youthful-looking complexion. All glominerals products are<br />
non-comedogenic, using only premium grade ingredients,<br />
<strong>and</strong> are anti-inflammatory so even compromised skin can<br />
wear these beautiful minerals.<br />
Glotherapeutics – for ageless beauty<br />
Healthy, radiant looking skin needs more than makeup –<br />
<strong>and</strong> so glo has developed an impressive range of skincare<br />
to offer a complete beauty package, glotherapeutics.<br />
Glotherapeutics is an extensive range – with special<br />
focus on active ingredients formulated to transform the<br />
skin. Glotherapeutics has multiple solutions for all skin<br />
types, with a broad line-up of cleansers, exfoliants, masks,<br />
serums, moisturisers <strong>and</strong> body products, all of which are<br />
complemented by professional treatment products.<br />
For acne suffers, there are multiple products – from<br />
cleansers, gels, wipes, spot treatments, special moisturisers<br />
<strong>and</strong> masks – all designed for either the management of<br />
acne, or to deal with breakouts.<br />
Pigmented skin is a special focus of glotherapeutics,<br />
which adopts a strategic approach to this common skin<br />
issue via a range of different home care products, to<br />
complement clinical treatments.<br />
For heavenly bodies, rough, bumpy skin can be a<br />
thing of the past with the Therapeutic Body Exfoliant <strong>and</strong><br />
Therapeutic Body Cream – two products developed to deal<br />
with Keratosis Pilaris.<br />
The jewel in the crown of the<br />
glotherapeutics line must be the premium<br />
Cyto-Luxe line. Cyto-Luxe leverages<br />
phytostem technology to target <strong>and</strong> help<br />
combat the primary causes of ageing skin.<br />
This cascade of actives, including<br />
plant stem cells <strong>and</strong> peptides, is designed<br />
to lift <strong>and</strong> tighten skin while helping to<br />
promote healthy skin cells, collagen<br />
production <strong>and</strong> reducing the appearance<br />
of wrinkles. This Cyto-Luxe line utilises<br />
the beauty of nature’s very own anti-ageing<br />
mechanism.<br />
With the quality,<br />
all-encompassing<br />
range of makeup<br />
<strong>and</strong> results-driven<br />
skincare, the glo<br />
ranges can help<br />
transform skin at<br />
any age. csbm<br />
156 www.cosbeauty.com.au
let your inner beauty glō<br />
A SYSTEMATIC APPROACH FOR BRILLANT BEAUTY RESULTS<br />
glostore.com.au 1800 66 44 55
skin<br />
Conquer<br />
pigmentation<br />
with skincare<br />
Cosmelan, distributed by<br />
Advanced Cosmeceuticals, is a<br />
cutting edge skincare TREATMENT<br />
to help reduce the appearance<br />
of hyperpigmenTATIon. Caitlin<br />
Bishop reports.<br />
Hyperpigmentation is one of the most common<br />
<strong>and</strong> unpredictable skin conditions – <strong>and</strong> is also<br />
one of the most difficult to treat. Patches of<br />
melanin or ‘brown spots’, typically across the face,<br />
can be caused by a number of factors, most notably<br />
sun exposure, pregnancy, hormone therapy <strong>and</strong><br />
genetics. But now, with the latest skincare solution<br />
from Advanced Cosmeceuticals, the appearance of<br />
hyperpigmentation can be noticeably reduced.<br />
Cosmelan Professional Treatment from Mesoestetic,<br />
distributed in Australia by Advanced Cosmeceuticals, is<br />
designed to reduce <strong>and</strong> prevent irregular pigmentation.<br />
The cutting edge range helps inhibit the production<br />
of melanin in the skin <strong>and</strong> reduce the visible signs of<br />
pigmentation on the face.<br />
The treatment<br />
The Cosmelan pack offers a multi-layered, intensive<br />
approach to pigmentation reduction. It combines<br />
salon treatments <strong>and</strong> home care products to offer<br />
a holistic, all-encompassing solution to skin health<br />
<strong>and</strong> beauty.<br />
Each Cosmelan pack contains a salon treatment,<br />
degreaser, a preparatory mask <strong>and</strong> a homecare<br />
moisturiser <strong>and</strong> night cream. The degreaser is used insalon<br />
to clear the debris <strong>and</strong> dead skin cells from the<br />
158 www.cosbeauty.com.au
skin’s surface <strong>and</strong> prepare the skin for the Cosmelan Mask.<br />
This mask contains an effective mixture of active, antipigmentation<br />
<strong>and</strong> anti-ageing ingredients. The moisturiser<br />
<strong>and</strong> night cream are used daily following treatment to<br />
maintain <strong>and</strong> improve results.<br />
Key ingredients<br />
One of the biggest culprits in melanin production is an<br />
enzyme called tyrosinase, <strong>and</strong> ingredients to inhibit<br />
tyrosinase activity are often used in skincare lines. Cosmelan<br />
is formulated using naturally derived tyrosinase inhibitors<br />
such as kojic acid (KA), which is touted to generate results<br />
within four weeks of use.<br />
A report by Jean Levy <strong>and</strong> Frederic Pons et al.,<br />
conducted at the Centre Laser Dermatologique in France,<br />
explains the benefits of KA in de-pigmentation skincare.<br />
‘It is well established that tyrosinase is a key enzyme<br />
in the synthesis of melanin,’ the report states. ‘Depicted<br />
as a natural approach to skin depigmentation, Cosmelan<br />
features KA, which is extremely stable in solution <strong>and</strong><br />
retains its potency over time.’<br />
This KA complex is partnered with<br />
a high antioxidant vitamin complex,<br />
as well as a vegetable extract<br />
complex to help hydrate <strong>and</strong> soothe<br />
the skin <strong>and</strong> sunscreen filters to<br />
provide significant protection against<br />
UVA <strong>and</strong> UVB rays.<br />
Notably, Cosmelan also includes<br />
an exfoliating agent to help accelerate<br />
the natural renewal of the skin’s<br />
upper layers <strong>and</strong> further reduce the<br />
appearance of pigmentation.<br />
skin<br />
Similarly, a study conducted by Mesoestetic’s scientific<br />
research team tested the effectiveness of Cosmelan on<br />
six female subjects who had been unresponsive to<br />
previous treatment. The mean age of the women was 40<br />
years <strong>and</strong> their melasma duration had spanned anywhere<br />
from two to 20 years.<br />
‘All study participants experienced significant<br />
depigmentation of melasma, not only at study cessation,<br />
but at seven days following twice-daily application of the<br />
maintenance cream,’ the report states.<br />
‘This is much faster than previous studies <strong>and</strong> could be<br />
relative to the inclusion of various other botanical agents in<br />
the treatment line.’<br />
Hyperpigmentation can detract from an otherwise<br />
smooth, clear <strong>and</strong> youthful complexion <strong>and</strong> – with up to 80<br />
percent of women over the age of 25 affected – Cosmelan<br />
signifies an accessible <strong>and</strong> effective solution.<br />
The range offers an all-inclusive <strong>and</strong> holistic approach<br />
to de-pigmentation, with a philosophy centred upon<br />
transforming skin using reliable, naturally derived <strong>and</strong><br />
scientifically validated ingredients. csbm<br />
anti ageing<br />
Backed by science<br />
The introduction of Cosmelan to the<br />
anti-ageing market has stemmed from<br />
significant research into its efficacy<br />
<strong>and</strong> reliability.<br />
One study, published in the Journal<br />
of <strong>Cosmetic</strong> Dermatology, enrolled 22<br />
women with melasma pigmentation<br />
into a split-faced trial lasting four<br />
months. The aim of this study was to<br />
compare the effects of Cosmelan with<br />
another de-pigmentation product on<br />
the market. The study found Cosmelan<br />
to be most effective in reducing the<br />
appearance of pigmentation <strong>and</strong>, even<br />
though some participants experienced<br />
irritation following use, they preferred<br />
the efficacy of Cosmelan over the less<br />
aggressive alternative.<br />
BEFORE<br />
BEFORE<br />
AFTER Cosmelan treatment<br />
AFTER Cosmelan treatment<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 159
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Cos<strong>Beauty</strong>.com.au is Australia’s premium online<br />
destination for all things cosmetic surgery,<br />
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It’s packed with authoritative articles, before <strong>and</strong><br />
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skin<br />
Leading the way<br />
in skin health<br />
WE CHAT WITH LAURENCE DRYER, CHIEF SCIENTIST<br />
AND HEAD OF PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT FOR<br />
OBAGI MEDICAL IN THE US, ABOUT THE<br />
BENEFITS OF A QUALITY SKINCARE REGIME.<br />
Q. iNova has recently brought the muchloved<br />
US skincare range, Obagi, to Australia.<br />
In the US, <strong>and</strong> worldwide, Obagi consumers<br />
are fiercely loyal to the br<strong>and</strong> – what can<br />
Australians expect?<br />
A: In a word: effi cacy. Every one of our products is<br />
thoroughly tested for safety <strong>and</strong> clinically proven to work. We<br />
have a strong relationship based on trust with the physician<br />
community, which transfers to their patients because they<br />
in turn have a trust-based relationship with their doctor.<br />
We don’t give in to fads, fashionable ingredients or storydriven<br />
products. We trust only proven, well-supported,<br />
scientifi cally tested ingredients for our products, <strong>and</strong> we<br />
submit them to the most stringent st<strong>and</strong>ards for testing.<br />
Our clinical strength derives from our stringent protocols as<br />
well as the involvement of well-known KOL physicians who<br />
often run those studies <strong>and</strong> can attest to the results.<br />
Q. What’s unique about Obagi, compared<br />
with other cosmetic or over-the-counter<br />
skincare ranges?<br />
A: Obagi is only sold in physicians’ offi ces <strong>and</strong> is<br />
characterised by the safety <strong>and</strong> effi cacy of its systems,<br />
the strength of its clinical trials, <strong>and</strong> the transformational<br />
nature of its products. I believe we are the clinical company.<br />
Our uniqueness lies in our complete, prescription-strength<br />
systems such as Nu-Derm, Obagi C-Rx or CLENZIderm<br />
M.D., but we also offer scientifi cally supported solutions<br />
that do not require prescriptions.<br />
The Obagi patient has a close relationship with her<br />
physician <strong>and</strong> is committed to a regimen that ensures<br />
maximum effi cacy. Through Obagi she is able to address all<br />
signs of ageing in a complete, effi cacious manner.<br />
In the US, over-the-counter cosmetic products typically<br />
address very mild anti-ageing or therapeutic issues. There is<br />
really nothing that is truly interventional <strong>and</strong> transformational<br />
in the over-the-counter space, <strong>and</strong> I believe there are no<br />
complete systems that address all signs of ageing. Most<br />
br<strong>and</strong>s focus on preventing issues <strong>and</strong> rely on various<br />
fashionable ingredients to convey novelty. We are a serious<br />
company <strong>and</strong> we take care of serious problems, relying on<br />
clinical data <strong>and</strong> hard facts.<br />
Our clinical superiority is partly due to our prescriptionstrength<br />
products; topical prescriptions are very important<br />
because they are the most effective way to treat moderate<br />
to severe skin concerns. For example, the retinoid category<br />
is widely known for its anti-ageing effi cacy, <strong>and</strong> our Nu-<br />
Derm system relies on a tretinoin prescription product.<br />
Topical prescription products best serve patients with real<br />
concerns, a need for correction <strong>and</strong> a high commitment<br />
level, following the ‘three Obagi Cs’ of Concern, Condition<br />
<strong>and</strong> Commitment.<br />
Q: Are there any hero products within the<br />
Obagi range that we shouldn’t live without?<br />
A: Nu-Derm is our hero system because it contains only gold<br />
st<strong>and</strong>ards for maximum effi cacy, such as tretinoin, glycolic<br />
acid <strong>and</strong> strong sunscreen ingredients. Our Obagi Hydrate<br />
moisturisers are indispensable. Further, our ELASTIderm<br />
products are specifi cally formulated for the delicate <strong>and</strong><br />
line-prone area around the eye, <strong>and</strong> contain our<br />
breakthrough elasticity complex clinically proven to diminish<br />
lines <strong>and</strong> restore youthfulness to the eye area. csbm<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 161
eauty & spa<br />
Post-summer skin saviours<br />
DETOX YOUR SKIN AFTER THE SUMMER PARTY SEASON WITH SPECIALISED SKIN<br />
TREATMENTS FROM NICOLE’S BEAUTY. AIMÉE SURTENICH REPORTS.<br />
The extremes of summer have most likely left your<br />
skin dehydrated, sun damaged <strong>and</strong> generally a bit<br />
lacklustre but, according to beauty expert Nicole<br />
Gruodiene, now is the optimal time to reclaim your radiance.<br />
Gruodiene, who owns Nicole’s <strong>Beauty</strong> Salon in Sydney’s<br />
Double Bay, believes a post-summer treatment to combat<br />
sun damage, dullness <strong>and</strong> skin dehydration will prep your<br />
skin for the winter months ahead.<br />
‘You may notice dry or fl aking skin, dull skin tone, sun<br />
damage <strong>and</strong> age spots have appeared,’ she says. ‘Sun can<br />
damage the skin cells deep in the dermis layer, diminishing<br />
the production of collagen <strong>and</strong> elastin. The damaged cells<br />
do not renew properly <strong>and</strong> skin can become thick, dull<br />
<strong>and</strong> sallow.’<br />
Gruodiene recommends using the next few months to<br />
restore your body’s moisture balance <strong>and</strong> treat it to some<br />
rejuvenating salon visits. ‘You should have an exfoliating <strong>and</strong><br />
moisturising routine in place at home but a salon treatment<br />
can really boost your results,’ she says.<br />
‘Using a sea salt scrub to exfoliate the whole body will<br />
brighten tone, while stimulating blood fl ow <strong>and</strong> circulation,’<br />
she adds. ‘Indeed, exfoliation will help your skin rid itself<br />
of dead or damaged cells <strong>and</strong> help it absorb moisture <strong>and</strong><br />
nutrients more effectively. Exfoliation of the top layer has<br />
also shown to stimulate production of new collagen.’<br />
Massage is a great way to stimulate lymphatic drainage<br />
<strong>and</strong> circulation in your body. ‘A Swedish massage uses a<br />
variety of techniques specifi cally tailored to promote muscle<br />
relaxation <strong>and</strong> ease tension by applying pressure against<br />
deeper muscles <strong>and</strong> bones,’ Gruodiene explains. ‘Even a<br />
simple, relaxing back massage helps reduce stress <strong>and</strong><br />
anxiety, relieves muscle tension <strong>and</strong> increases circulation.’<br />
To get skin back in fi ne form, Gruodiene says you can’t<br />
go past microdermabrasion to remove dead skin cell<br />
build-up <strong>and</strong> an LED light treatment to help stimulate the<br />
production of new collagen <strong>and</strong> elastin. ‘Everyone’s skin<br />
varies, but most people feel <strong>and</strong> see a difference after about<br />
four treatments,’ she says.<br />
Gruodiene likes to complete her treatments with an<br />
oxygen facial (‘It’s said to be a favourite of Madonna’s,’<br />
she says). This unique treatment combines pure oxygen<br />
with antioxidants to deliver hydration to the skin’s deeper<br />
layers, promoting a brighter, hydrated, plumper <strong>and</strong> more<br />
youthful complexion.<br />
If the festive season took its toll on you, it’s likely your<br />
body will also benefi t from a little detox. ‘A full body wrap is<br />
an ideal treatment to detoxify, hydrate <strong>and</strong> slim the body,’<br />
Gruodiene says. ‘Body wraps are perfect either as a one<br />
off treatment or as a course to gain optimum results.’<br />
She favours the International Body Wrap, which not<br />
only hydrates the body but also guarantees a circumference<br />
loss of at least 15cm. ‘People mainly use it to squeeze into<br />
a “special occasion” dress or to kickstart a weight loss<br />
program,’ she says.<br />
While it’s not possible to turn back the chronological<br />
clock, youthful radiance can be restored to the skin in<br />
as little as a single salon session with a combination of<br />
rejuvenating treatments. csbm<br />
162 www.cosbeauty.com.au
LOSE 15CM AND KEEP IT OFF!<br />
Nicole’s <strong>Beauty</strong> Salon offers only the very best treatments available,<br />
including the International Body Wrap which improves the appearance<br />
of cellulite, stretch marks <strong>and</strong> scar tissue <strong>and</strong> is guaranteed to take 15<br />
centimetres off your entire body size - or your money back!<br />
With highly trained aestheticians <strong>and</strong> stunning surroundings, any<br />
treatment you have at Nicole’s <strong>Beauty</strong> Salon will be a luxurious<br />
experience you’ll long for time <strong>and</strong> time again.<br />
02 9327 7728<br />
mobile 0410 627 767<br />
nicole@nicolesbeautysalon.com.au<br />
Shop 8, 401 - 407 New South Head Rd,<br />
Double Bay NSW 2028<br />
www.nicolesbeautysalon.com.au
eauty & spa<br />
carpet<br />
ready<br />
Create thick, sexy, flowing<br />
tresses with quality<br />
hair extensions. Nicola<br />
Donovan reports.<br />
Forget lusting after the long <strong>and</strong> seductive locks<br />
of the A-listers – you, too, can have thicker,<br />
longer, look-at-me hair. Hair extensions,<br />
applied by an expert such as Joseph Mourad, can<br />
transform your look from so-so to super sexy in a<br />
matter of hours, enabling you to wake up with redcarpet<br />
ready hair every day.<br />
Long <strong>and</strong> thick hair will have you oozing<br />
confidence <strong>and</strong> style instantly, <strong>and</strong> there’s no<br />
better person for the job than Joseph from Joseph<br />
Mourad’s Hair & <strong>Beauty</strong> in Double Bay, Sydney.<br />
His advanced hair extension techniques are sought<br />
the world over – with celebrity clientele including<br />
entertainer Mel B, Grammy award-winning recording<br />
artist Mya, <strong>and</strong> MasterChef favourite Marion Grasby.<br />
‘Hair extensions are about giving people beautiful<br />
<strong>and</strong> strong hair,’ says Mourad. ‘Extensions provide<br />
volume, length <strong>and</strong> manageability – <strong>and</strong> make<br />
getting ready for a night out or special occasion so<br />
much easier.’<br />
s_bukley / Shutterstock.com<br />
164 www.cosbeauty.com.au
eauty & spa<br />
Keratin hair straightening<br />
The humidity of summer can bring about frizzy, unruly<br />
curls. Keratin Complex Hair Therapy by Coppola,<br />
a revolutionary smoothing treatment, can tame<br />
tresses in an instant. Offered at Joseph Mourad<br />
Hair & <strong>Beauty</strong> in Double Bay, the treatment works<br />
by infusing keratin deep into the hair cuticle, coating<br />
<strong>and</strong> relaxing the hair, eliminating up to 95 percent of<br />
the frizz <strong>and</strong> curl.<br />
If you’ve spent too much time with heat stylers,<br />
the good news is that the more damaged hair is, the<br />
better the treatment works.<br />
The treatment isn’t suitable for pregnant women<br />
or children under the age of 16.<br />
After the hair is washed, blow-dried, brushed <strong>and</strong><br />
sectioned off, the keratin solution is then applied to<br />
str<strong>and</strong>s of the hair <strong>and</strong> each section is straightened<br />
with a flat iron. This infuses the solution into the hair,<br />
which stays in the hair for around 72 hours, after<br />
which the hair is washed <strong>and</strong> ready to be styled.<br />
Lasting anywhere between two to four months, the<br />
hair will retain volume while<br />
looking <strong>and</strong> feeling silky,<br />
smooth <strong>and</strong> shiny.<br />
Featureflash / Shutterstock.com<br />
Mourad prides himself on using only the highest quality<br />
human hair extensions. He is skilled in all hair extension<br />
techniques but his preferred method is the innovative<br />
ultrasonic cold fusion technique, which uses ultrasound<br />
technology to attach the hair extension to the client’s<br />
natural roots. The result is natural-looking hair extensions<br />
that are virtually non-detectable.<br />
What makes the cold fusion<br />
technique unique?<br />
The ultrasonic cold fusion technique allows for multistr<strong>and</strong><br />
bonding, making the whole process efficient <strong>and</strong>,<br />
importantly. Bonding clinical keratin with keratin found in<br />
the hair shaft, the extensions are attached to the natural<br />
hair very close to each other so there are no telltale signs.<br />
‘The technology is so advanced <strong>and</strong> the bonding so<br />
seamless,’ says Mourad. ‘It achieves impeccable results<br />
<strong>and</strong> the extensions can be completely undetectable to<br />
the eye. And, because there is no use of heat, glue or<br />
clips to bond the extensions, the client’s natural hair is<br />
not damaged.’<br />
When applying the extensions, emphasis is placed on<br />
properly blending colour <strong>and</strong> thickness with the natural hair.<br />
Attached str<strong>and</strong> by str<strong>and</strong>, the extensions can be<br />
attached to long, short, straight or wavy hair as long as the<br />
natural length is more than 2cm. Each str<strong>and</strong> has about 20<br />
hairs in it <strong>and</strong> a full head can take from 100 to 300 str<strong>and</strong>s,<br />
depending on the required thickness. In just a few hours,<br />
hair is transformed from short, thin str<strong>and</strong>s to thick, long<br />
locks. ‘The latest advances provide long <strong>and</strong> voluminous<br />
hair without the need to wait for natural hair to grow out,’<br />
says Mourad. ‘It can completely transform your look.’<br />
Extensions can last anywhere between six <strong>and</strong> 12<br />
months. Once attached, the extensions can be treated<br />
as normal. ‘Care for your extensions the way you would<br />
your natural hair,’ Mourad advises. ‘It’s important to be<br />
particularly careful when combing <strong>and</strong> blow-drying your<br />
hair. However, hair extensions can be cut <strong>and</strong> coloured just<br />
like your natural hair.’<br />
When applied by a hair extension specialist, you can<br />
enjoy a full head of flowing, thicker hair – <strong>and</strong> look forward<br />
to a good hair day, every day. csbm<br />
For more information visit www.josephmourad.com.au<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 165
eauty & spa<br />
Salon<br />
Melbourne<br />
2014:<br />
The best in<br />
beauty<br />
More than ever before, aesthetics have become<br />
increasingly integrated into the traditional spa <strong>and</strong><br />
beauty categories. As services for consumers<br />
become less about relaxation <strong>and</strong> more about results,<br />
this year’s upcoming Salon Melbourne 2014 is placing an<br />
increased focus on medi-based treatments.<br />
As Victoria’s premier hair <strong>and</strong> beauty destination,<br />
this unique two-day Expo provides beauty, spa <strong>and</strong><br />
hair professionals with a leading platform to experience<br />
SALON MELBOURNE, VICTORIA’S ULTIMATE<br />
HAIR AND BEAUTY EVENT, PUTS MEDI-BASED<br />
TREATMENTS ON THE AGENDA THIS YEAR.<br />
hundreds of br<strong>and</strong>s, products <strong>and</strong> shows – all under the<br />
one roof. ‘Having an increased emphasis on medi-based<br />
products <strong>and</strong> services is an invaluable addition to this year’s<br />
show line-up. Whether it’s injectables or laser resurfacing,<br />
this year’s Salon Melbourne visitors will be able to evaluate<br />
a range of leading treatments – gaining priceless knowledge<br />
on how aesthetic-focused services can be integrated into<br />
their own salons or spas,’ says Salon Melbourne Event<br />
Director, Julia Erben.<br />
Hair by Wade Blackford, makeup by Zoe Karlis, photography by Carl Keeley, styling by Jessica Cox<br />
166 www.cosbeauty.com.au
eauty & spa<br />
Whether you’re a beauty therapist looking to exp<strong>and</strong><br />
your treatment base, or a salon owner after increasing<br />
revenue, Salon Melbourne 2014 will provide you with a<br />
one-stop shop for incorporating medi-based services into<br />
your salon or spa.<br />
Bursting with products, shows, education <strong>and</strong><br />
entertainment, Salon Melbourne provides the ideal platform<br />
for sourcing, learning <strong>and</strong> inspiration. Get a step ahead of<br />
your competition <strong>and</strong> clear the dates of March 23 <strong>and</strong> 24,<br />
2014 <strong>and</strong> get registered for Salon Melbourne today!<br />
When, Where<br />
& How To Register<br />
SALON MELBOURNE 2014<br />
March 23 & 24, Melbourne Convention<br />
<strong>and</strong> Exhibition Centre<br />
For visitors looking for expert guidance on tapping<br />
into this lucrative market, Salon Melbourne will feature an<br />
unmissable Age Management seminar*, run by skincare<br />
expert Suzie Hoitink. Educating on a range of non-invasive<br />
skincare <strong>and</strong> technological based anti-ageing treatments,<br />
Suzie will offer her sought-after expertise in choosing the<br />
most effective tools based on individual business needs<br />
<strong>and</strong> profit potential.<br />
From education to exhibitors, the Expo floor will also<br />
have plenty on offer, with a dedicated Medi-Zone providing<br />
spa <strong>and</strong> beauty visitors with a devoted area to get the<br />
latest news on innovations, trial new products <strong>and</strong> talk<br />
directly with suppliers. A newly created Medi-Stage will<br />
additionally allow visitors to view some of the industry’s<br />
latest cosmeceutical innovations live in action.<br />
Register Entry<br />
Attending Salon Melbourne is free for all industry<br />
professionals. Register your attendance at:<br />
www.salonmelbourne.com.au<br />
All Access Education Pass<br />
Price: 3 seminars of your choice for $249 per person<br />
(Price includes GST <strong>and</strong> is tax deductible)<br />
* To purchase a ticket to Salon Melbourne’s Age<br />
Management Skincare <strong>and</strong> Technology with<br />
Suzie Hoitink seminar (price $99 per person or as<br />
part of an All Access Education Pass) visit: www.<br />
salonmelbourne.com.au/en/visiting/education/<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 167
eauty & spa<br />
Age-<br />
Defying<br />
Makeup<br />
Tricks<br />
AS WE AGE, COSMETICS THAT<br />
ONCE ENHANCED OUR LOOKS CAN<br />
BECOME UNFLATTERING. THESE<br />
BEAUTY PRODUCTS CAN HELP<br />
YOU TURN BACK THE CLOCK AND<br />
REVIVE A YOUTHFUL COMPLEXION.<br />
NICOLA DONOVAN REPORTS.<br />
1<br />
2<br />
3<br />
4<br />
5<br />
PROBLEM: A sunken face<br />
FIX: As we age, it’s inevitable we will lose fat <strong>and</strong><br />
structure from our face. This results in a loss of volume<br />
that can lead to sagging cheeks <strong>and</strong> lack of prominent<br />
bone structure.<br />
But all is not lost – there are certain beauty products<br />
that can assist in helping to create the illusion of a<br />
more supple <strong>and</strong> contoured appearance. To add a more<br />
vibrant <strong>and</strong> 3D dimensional look to your features, dab<br />
a sheer highlighter on your cheekbones <strong>and</strong> apples of<br />
your cheeks.<br />
Blush can also be used to make your bone structure<br />
st<strong>and</strong> out. Simply dust it along the highest points of<br />
your cheekbones.<br />
PROBLEM: Sparse eyelashes<br />
FIX: As the years pass, our eyelashes tend to lose<br />
some of their thickness <strong>and</strong> length. They can become<br />
sparser <strong>and</strong> fl atter, causing the eyes to look smaller. To<br />
open up the eye area <strong>and</strong> create the illusion of wider eyes,<br />
everything should be going upwards against gravity.<br />
An eyelash curler can make a huge difference. Even if<br />
you choose to skip mascara, curling your lashes should<br />
still remain a part of your makeup routine. As for mascara,<br />
opt for a natural brown shade, which will create a youthful<br />
look while still defi ning the eye. But be careful not to be<br />
too heavy h<strong>and</strong>ed with the mascara w<strong>and</strong> – fl aky, cakey<br />
lashes are never a good look!<br />
168 www.cosbeauty.com.au
eauty & spa<br />
8<br />
11 12<br />
9<br />
10<br />
14<br />
7<br />
13<br />
6<br />
(1) Bourjois Blush Exclusif, RRP $20 (2) ELES Age Defying BB Cream 30, RRP $49.50 (3) Dermalogica SkinPerfect<br />
Primer SPF30, RRP $65 (4) Lancôme Effet Miracle, RRP $55 (5) YSL Touche Eclat, RRP $55 (6) Make Up Store<br />
Cover All Mix Concealer, RRP $52 (7) Shu Uemura Eyelash Curler, RRP $29 (8) Giorgio Armani Fluid Sheer, RRP<br />
$86 (9) Elizabeth Arden Ceramide Cream Blush, RRP $52 (10) Elizabeth Arden Beautiful Color Moisturizing Lipstick<br />
in Golden Nude, RRP $35 (11) Giorgio Armani High Precision Retouch Concealer, RRP $54 (12) Elizabeth Arden<br />
Ceramide Lash Extending Treatment Mascara, RRP $47 (13) Jane Iredale So-Bronze 2 Bronzing Powder, RRP $86<br />
(14) Elizabeth Arden Beautiful Color Brow Shaper & Liner, RRP $35<br />
PROBLEM: Thin lips<br />
FIX: The older we get, the thinner our lips become –<br />
especially the upper. This is due to less collagen, a protein<br />
that supports soft tissue, being produced. The best<br />
approach to giving the illusion of fuller lips naturally is by<br />
sticking to shades that enhance your natural lip colour,<br />
<strong>and</strong> avoiding dark hues, which can be ageing. Avoid matte<br />
lipsticks, which can be drying on the lips <strong>and</strong> emphasise<br />
any lines you may have around the mouth. Instead, opt for<br />
a creamy alternative before applying a gloss, as the shine<br />
will keep lips looking full <strong>and</strong> hydrated.<br />
As we age, our natural lip line can also fade, which<br />
makes lipstick more likely to bleed. Combat this problem<br />
by tracing lips with a clear lip liner, or one the same colour<br />
as your chosen lipstick, to help it stay put.<br />
‘Enhance your lip colour by using a cheek <strong>and</strong> lip stain,’<br />
says Hannah Terrett, BeneFit <strong>Cosmetic</strong>s National Education<br />
Manager. ‘Try layering your stain with your favourite lip gloss<br />
to boost lip volume <strong>and</strong> add a pop of shine.<br />
PROBLEM: Fine lines <strong>and</strong> wrinkles<br />
FIX: It’s important not to go overboard with foundation<br />
in an effort to mask lines <strong>and</strong> wrinkles. Besides looking<br />
cakey, too much product can sink into any lines <strong>and</strong> make<br />
them more evident. The same goes for concealers; go for<br />
lightweight formulas that contain light-refl ecting particles,<br />
which will also combat dark under-eye circles.<br />
Before applying foundation, using a primer will moisturise<br />
your skin <strong>and</strong> help to hold your foundation in place. Primers<br />
are designed to smooth <strong>and</strong> conceal fi ne lines <strong>and</strong> uneven<br />
skin texture. ‘Primers are important for creating a fl awless<br />
complexion,’ says Terrett. ‘What works a treat for reducing<br />
years off the complexion is a pore-minimising <strong>and</strong> fi ne-line<br />
diffusing primer.’<br />
You can set your foundation with a powder if you feel the<br />
need to – a light, translucent powder is your best option.<br />
Also keep in mind that too much powder will highlight<br />
wrinkles <strong>and</strong> dryness, so use sparingly.<br />
PROBLEM: Dull skin<br />
FIX: As we age, our body slows down the natural<br />
exfoliation process – which can leave skin feeling <strong>and</strong><br />
looking dull. ‘Prepare your skin with plenty of hydration!<br />
Start by using a moisture-rich cream,’ says Terrett. ‘Don’t<br />
forget your peepers. The delicate skin surrounding the eyes<br />
needs plenty of love; prep your eye area with a specialised<br />
cream tailored to the eye area.’<br />
Combat lackluster skin by investing in a tinted moisturiser<br />
that contains luminescent particles. A light-refl ective formula<br />
will help create the illusion of a glowing complexion.<br />
For an extra glow, use an illuminator. Containing shiny<br />
minerals that attract light, illuminators can be strategically<br />
placed for an intensifi ed highlight, or they can be mixed<br />
into your foundation or moisturiser for an all-over glow.<br />
Brighteners are also an important skincare product when it<br />
comes to addressing skin dullness.<br />
PROBLEM: Thinning brows<br />
FIX: Thin eyebrows can be instantly ageing <strong>and</strong><br />
unfl attering. Ward off sparse brows by fi lling them in with<br />
an eyebrow powder. Choose a powder which is a similar<br />
colour to your existing hairs <strong>and</strong> follow the lines of your<br />
existing eyebrows, rather than trying to create a new shape.<br />
An angled brow brush will give you the best results.<br />
Strong, well-groomed eyebrows will help achieve a more<br />
youthful appearance (while sticking with today’s brow<br />
trends). csbm<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 169
Message<br />
in a bottle<br />
One of the most potent beauty messages comes<br />
from the perfume you wear. Ricky Allen shares her<br />
tips on extending the life of your fragrance.<br />
1.<br />
2.<br />
Smells are processed in the forebrain, that part of the<br />
brain that also processes instincts <strong>and</strong> urges. The<br />
inspirational Helen Keller, for instance, could even smell<br />
impending rain. This was how well developed her sense of<br />
smell was, considering she had to use this sense to ‘see’<br />
for her.<br />
Our olfactory gl<strong>and</strong>s are much like a muscle <strong>and</strong> can be<br />
trained to become more active <strong>and</strong> perceptive. It’s possible<br />
to train yourself to block out negative smells <strong>and</strong> focus on<br />
smells that are more pleasing.<br />
In terms of wearing perfume, its best to layer to extend its<br />
fragrance throughout the day. Start with the matching soap,<br />
bath or shower gel or oil, follow with the body lotion or cream<br />
or perhaps powder <strong>and</strong> then lastly finish with a spray or dab<br />
of your perfume.<br />
You may think all of this layering would make your perfume<br />
too overpowering but that’s not the case. As the body heats<br />
<strong>and</strong> cools during the day the different layers of smell come<br />
alive <strong>and</strong> allow your fragrance to last well into the night. This<br />
mixed layering is a very modern approach, which can also<br />
give you a really uniquely personal fragrance.<br />
Once you have sorted out your perfume, you can start<br />
fragrance layering of your home, office, car <strong>and</strong> even clothes.<br />
Crabtree & Evelyn have a huge range of complementary<br />
c<strong>and</strong>les, draw liners, environmental oils, room sprays<br />
<strong>and</strong> even clothes washing products. They have built their<br />
internationally successful business on the premise that<br />
fragrance should pervade every aspect of your life <strong>and</strong> go<br />
beyond merely perfume. Many other beauty companies<br />
have followed their example, such as Jo Malone <strong>and</strong><br />
Giorgio Armani.<br />
Use the sense of smell to your benefit. If you have an<br />
important meeting or a job interview, make sure your fragrance<br />
is a positive one <strong>and</strong> even extend it to your h<strong>and</strong>bag or note<br />
book – a little spray of perfume will do the trick.<br />
When out socialising, make sure you use a fragrance<br />
which will really st<strong>and</strong> out in an alluring way <strong>and</strong> use all the<br />
matching layering products to make it last. csbm<br />
170 www.cosbeauty.com.au
eauty & spa<br />
3.<br />
4.<br />
Harness<br />
the power<br />
of perfume<br />
5.<br />
6.<br />
Here’s a selection of our favourite<br />
fragrances sure to make your life<br />
more beautiful!<br />
10.<br />
7.<br />
8.<br />
9.<br />
YSL Paris EDT fragrance, RRP<br />
$165 for 125ml (1) <strong>and</strong> Body Lotion<br />
RRP $88 (6)<br />
Flower Bomb by Viktor & Rolf<br />
EDP, RRP $99 for 30ml (2) <strong>and</strong><br />
Perfumed Body Lotion, RRP $145 (7)<br />
Bottega Venetta Deluxe Perfume<br />
Compact, RRP $200 (3), Perfumed<br />
Hair Mist, RRP $70 (4) <strong>and</strong> Satin<br />
Body Oil, RRP $80 (5)<br />
Khiel’s Original Musk Body Lotion<br />
RRP $32 (8) <strong>and</strong> Blend No. 1 RRP<br />
$70 (9)<br />
Acqua Di Gio by Giorgio Armani<br />
EDT RRP, $110 for 50ml (10) <strong>and</strong><br />
Deodorant Stick, RRP $52 (15)<br />
Crabtree & Evelyn Verbena <strong>and</strong><br />
Lavender de Provence Bath<br />
<strong>and</strong> Shower Oil, RRP $32 (11) <strong>and</strong><br />
Cologne, RRP $60 for 100ml (12)<br />
Paco Rabanne One Million for<br />
Men, RRP $66 (13) <strong>and</strong> Lady Million,<br />
RRP $64 (14)<br />
Ananas Fizz by L’Artisan<br />
Parfumeur Paris EDT,<br />
RRP $188 for 100ml (16)<br />
14.<br />
12.<br />
13.<br />
15.<br />
16.<br />
11.<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 171
eauty & spa<br />
Turn your bathroom<br />
into a spa oasis. Here’s<br />
our DIY guide to bathing<br />
beaUTIFULLY at home.<br />
AimÉe Surtenich reports.<br />
Scents appeal<br />
Your senses influence how we receive <strong>and</strong> respond to<br />
things day to day – your sense of smell being the biggest<br />
culprit. Create a bathroom haven by dimming the lights,<br />
lighting an aromatherapy c<strong>and</strong>le, listening to some chill-out<br />
music <strong>and</strong> sinking into a sudsy tub.<br />
Baths are the Holy Grail of relaxation. Indulge in scents<br />
such as lavender, honey, vanilla, rose or jasmine to soothe<br />
the senses after a long day at work. Use a bath oil to<br />
indulge in a night of aromatherapy, a bubble bath for midweek<br />
decadence or bath milk for the royal treatment.<br />
Milk has been a body beautifier for centuries, even used<br />
by kings <strong>and</strong> queens to keep them looking young. Bath<br />
milk lightly moisturises the whole body <strong>and</strong> blankets the<br />
skin with nutrients. Best enjoyed with a glass of wine.<br />
A creamy body wash with a nostalgic scent such as<br />
lavender or honey can also send you into a deeply relaxed<br />
state, <strong>and</strong> a fresh citrus scent paired with a foamy texture<br />
invigorates the senses. Trick yourself into holiday-mode<br />
with fruity scents like mango, strawberry or coconut for a<br />
tropical escape away from the daily grind.<br />
Skin therapy<br />
Body scrubs should be included in your beauty arsenal.<br />
They are a great way to get rid of dry skin <strong>and</strong> get the blood<br />
circulating around the body. Body scrubs prime the skin<br />
for products such as moisturisers to be applied afterwards<br />
by removing dead skin cells <strong>and</strong> dirt particles, ensuring the<br />
active ingredients of the product penetrate into the layers<br />
of the skin.<br />
No time for a total body scrub session? Chemical<br />
exfoliators contain mild acids that remove dead skin cells,<br />
creating a slight tingling sensation on application that only<br />
lasts a few minutes.<br />
Skin post-shower or bath is soft <strong>and</strong> has enlarged pores,<br />
which is the best time for skin to be moisturised. The steam<br />
from a warm shower relaxes the surface of the skin <strong>and</strong><br />
allows the moisturiser to penetrate <strong>and</strong> infiltrate the deeper<br />
layers of the skin.<br />
Using a quality moisturiser daily is essential – try using it<br />
to take off your makeup instead of a harsh makeup remover<br />
that will dry out your skin even more. Bonus points for using<br />
a body wash with an in-built moisturiser.<br />
The easiest way to choose a moisturiser is to check your<br />
skin type – dry, oily, combination or sensitive. Dry skin feels<br />
tight <strong>and</strong> often builds up dead skin on the surface, oily skin<br />
is prone to breakouts <strong>and</strong> has larger pores, combination<br />
skin is both dry <strong>and</strong> oily on different areas, <strong>and</strong> sensitive<br />
skin is prone to rashes or skin conditions such as eczema.<br />
Everyone’s skin behaves differently from season to<br />
season, so you might find that you’ll use a moisturiser for<br />
dry skin in winter <strong>and</strong> a lighter one in summer. For skin that<br />
needs some extra TLC to help it perform at its best, the<br />
Obagi Nu-Derm Skincare System, a perennial bestseller in<br />
the US, is clinically proven to transform your complexion.<br />
You’ll be showing off clear, beautiful <strong>and</strong> healthy looking<br />
skin in no time.<br />
On the run?<br />
Instead of hitting the snooze button give yourself a hit of<br />
energy try lathering up with a freshly scented shower gel.<br />
Citrus oil is said to have anti-anxiety <strong>and</strong> anti-depressive<br />
effects in aromatherapy, so a fresh citrus-smelling shower<br />
gel will invigorate the senses to give you some pep!<br />
Other scents such as mint, lime, peppermint, eucalyptus,<br />
tea tree, grapefruit <strong>and</strong> orange are zesty <strong>and</strong> invigorating<br />
scents to liven you up for the day ahead. The soft textures of<br />
body foams <strong>and</strong> mousses lather easily <strong>and</strong> lend themselves<br />
to being applied energetically – don’t be surprised if you<br />
end up lathering along to the morning radio. Opt for a<br />
wash-off moisturiser if you’re looking for something that will<br />
soothe your dry post-summer skin. csbm<br />
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eauty & spa<br />
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(1) Urban Rituelle Sweet Treats Cotton C<strong>and</strong>y Fragrance<br />
Diffuser Set, RRP $29.95 (2) Palm Beach Collection H<strong>and</strong><br />
<strong>and</strong> Body Wash, RRP $29.95 (3) L’Occitane Lav<strong>and</strong>e Eau<br />
De Cologne, RRP $70 <strong>and</strong> (4) Lav<strong>and</strong>e Foaming Bath, RRP<br />
$42 (5) L’Occitane Verveine Fresh Shower Gel, RRP $28<br />
(6) Kiehl’s Patchouli & Fresh Rose Body Lotion, RRP $38,<br />
(7) Kiehl’s Patchouli & Fresh Rose Liquid Body Cleanser,<br />
RRP $30 <strong>and</strong> (8) Kiehl’s Patchouli & Fresh Rose Fragrance,<br />
RRP $29 (9) Sanctuary Spa Active Reverse Facial 30 Day<br />
Thermal Transformation, RRP $34.99 (10) Dermalogica<br />
Hydro-Active Mineral Salts, RRP $38.50 (11) Clarisonic<br />
Skincare Device Mia, RRP $175 (12) Moroccanoil Intense<br />
Hydrating Mask, RRP $49.50 (13) Thalgo Exotic Isl<strong>and</strong><br />
Body Scrub, RRP $87 (14) Jojoba 100% Natural Ultimate<br />
Jojoba Youth Potion, RRP $39.95 (15) Jurlique Herbal<br />
Recovery Antioxidant Gel Mask, RRP $72, (16) Jurlique<br />
Jasmine Body Care Lotion, RRP $44 <strong>and</strong> (17) Jurlique<br />
Jasmine Shower Gel, RRP $28 (18) Phytomer Toning<br />
Body Scrub, RRP $68 <strong>and</strong> (19) Phytomer Seaweed<br />
Soap, RRP $26 (20) Biotherm Eau Vitaminee Uplifting<br />
Shower Gel, RRP $29 <strong>and</strong> (21) Biotherm Eau Vitaminee<br />
Perfumed Body Milk, RRP $29 (22) You By Sia Enhance –<br />
Luxurious Body Enhancing Lotion, RRP $89 (23) Lancôme<br />
Nutrix Body Cream, RRP $72 (24) Kosmea Moisturising<br />
Lotion SPF30+, RRP $44.95 (25) Kosmea Limited Edition<br />
Certifi ed Organic Rose Hip Oil, RRP $19.95 (26) Jonathan<br />
Ward London Mombasa Club 1932 Scented C<strong>and</strong>le,<br />
RRP $55 (27) Glasshouse La Maison, RRP $59.95<br />
(28) Romance C<strong>and</strong>le Amber + Musk, RRP $39.95<br />
(29) Elizabeth Arden Visible Difference Peel & Reveal<br />
Mask, RRP $55 (30) Kerstin Florian Turkish Body Scrub,<br />
RRP $75 (31) Éminence Coconut Sugar Scrub, RRP<br />
$74 (32) Billie Goat Soap Bath Milk, RRP $16.95 (33)<br />
Sanctuary Spa Brightening Facial in a Box, RRP $29.99<br />
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www.cosbeauty.com.au 173
eauty & spa<br />
Our pick of the best beauty buys<br />
in 2014. Ricky Allen reports.<br />
Skincare<br />
& sun care<br />
1. La Prairie Cellular Swiss Ice Crystal Dry Oil <strong>and</strong> Ice<br />
Crystal Cream, RRP $355 each. These are the latest<br />
offerings in the amazing La Prairie skincare range. Purple<br />
Saxifrage, Soldanella, Alpina Extract <strong>and</strong> Swiss Snow<br />
Algae all combine to form a potent youth-preserving<br />
complex. They help to counter the effects of physical,<br />
chemical <strong>and</strong> environmental stress <strong>and</strong> preserve the<br />
renewal potential of skin stem cells.<br />
2. Garnier Moisture Match Protect & Glow SPF 20<br />
Moisturiser, RRP $9.95. This light lotion helps safeguard<br />
your skin thanks to an amazing ability to contain high<br />
sunscreen filters without heaviness <strong>and</strong> residue. It also<br />
contains antioxidants, which offer healthy glowing skin.<br />
3. Garnier Perfect Blur, RRP $16.95. This innovative<br />
product is a smoothing base perfector that uses lightreflecting<br />
technology to blur the signs of aging – all in<br />
five seconds!<br />
1.<br />
2. 3.<br />
174 www.cosbeauty.com.au
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beauty & spa<br />
8.<br />
7.<br />
4. 5.<br />
4. Sukin Certified Organic Rose Hip Oil, RRP $22.50.<br />
A good source of Vitamin C, which is highly stable <strong>and</strong><br />
able to be used on even the most sensitive of skins, this<br />
anti-ageing rose hip oil hydrates skin <strong>and</strong> also aids in the<br />
treatment of hyperpigmentation.<br />
5. Time in a Bottle by Philosophy, RRP $95. Four<br />
enzymes – photolyase, endonuclease, glycosylase <strong>and</strong><br />
alkyltransferase – come together in this product to help<br />
treat photodamage, oxidative stress <strong>and</strong> alkylation. They<br />
also help improve the skin’s natural renewal process.<br />
6. Vie Collection Smoothing Toning Lotion, RRP $56.<br />
This toner contains hyaluronic <strong>and</strong> lactic acid to help<br />
increase cell renewal, skin firmness <strong>and</strong> hydration levels.<br />
7. Glo Therapeutics Cyto-Luxe Face Essence RRP $88.<br />
Part of the exciting range of Cyto-Luxe skincare products,<br />
which cover all aspects of face <strong>and</strong> body skincare, this face<br />
essence uses the latest in scientific technology.<br />
8. L’Oreal Paris Luminosity Code BB Illuminating <strong>Beauty</strong><br />
Balm, RRP $29.95. An all-encompassing blend of<br />
hydrator, concealer, colour <strong>and</strong> illuminator, this all-in-one<br />
product hydrates, illuminates, evens out skin tone <strong>and</strong><br />
covers skin imperfections.<br />
9. Phytomer XMV Face Perfection Youth Cream,<br />
RRP $264. Combining Extra Marine Filler <strong>and</strong> Morio<br />
Orchid Extract, it offers antioxidant protection as well as<br />
smoothing wrinkles. This cream also increases the skin’s<br />
luminosity while smoothing <strong>and</strong> firming.<br />
10. Racinne Ultimate Hydra Perfection Advanced<br />
Luminous Gel, RRP $41. A combination of organic peach<br />
<strong>and</strong> grape callus extracts, this powerful hydrating <strong>and</strong><br />
activating gel refreshes <strong>and</strong> rejuvenates the skin, giving a<br />
more youthful appearance.<br />
11. Ultraceuticals SunActive Face Cream SPF 50+, RRP<br />
$45. This broad spectrum sunscreen is four-hours water<br />
resistant. It also offers the extra benefit of hydrating skin<br />
while it protects it from damaging UVA <strong>and</strong> UVB rays.<br />
12. La Roche Posay Anthelios XL 50+ Tinted Cream,<br />
RRP $27.95. This sun protection cream is excellent for<br />
allergy-prone skin – offering high protection against UVA<br />
<strong>and</strong> UVB rays while giving a lightly tinted glow.<br />
13. Aveda Green Science Line Minimizer, RRP $149.95<br />
for 10 tubes. A concentrated treatment which helps boost<br />
the skin’s natural collagen production to minimise the<br />
appearance of lines <strong>and</strong> wrinkles.<br />
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www.cosbeauty.com.au 175
eauty & spa<br />
1.<br />
Must-have<br />
makeup<br />
2. 3.<br />
1. Maybelline New York Volum’<br />
Express Colossal Smoky Eyes<br />
Mascara, RRP $19.25<br />
2. Maybelline New York Big Eyes<br />
by Eye Studio Eye Shadow Palette in<br />
Luminous Turquoise RRP, $19.95<br />
3. Shanghai Suzi Lipstick in Miss Sally<br />
Watermelon, RRP $12.95<br />
4. Maybelline New York Fit Me Shine<br />
Free Foundation, RRP $15.95<br />
8.<br />
4.<br />
Flair for hair<br />
5. Wella Brilliance Conditioner for<br />
Coloured Hair, RRP $24<br />
6. Bhave Rescue Intense Repair<br />
Shampoo, RRP $43.95<br />
7. Suico Joy Hair Ultimate Control<br />
Shampoo, RRP $22.50<br />
9.<br />
Blissful bodies<br />
8. Salt Body Scrub in Rosehip & Shea<br />
by Premium Spa, RRP $14.95<br />
9. Crabtree & Evelyn Florentine<br />
Freesia Flower Water, RRP $80<br />
10. Nivea Men Cool Kick Shower<br />
Gel – Body, Face Hair, RRP $7.50<br />
11.<br />
10.<br />
5. 6. 7.<br />
Nail it!<br />
11. Crabtree & Evelyn Nail Lacquer<br />
in Pistacio, RRP $15<br />
12. Maybelline New York Color<br />
Show Brilliants Nail Polish in Foil Flash,<br />
RRP $5.95<br />
13. Essie Nail Lacquer in Shake Your<br />
$$ Maker, RRP $16.95<br />
14. OPI Nail Lacquer in Where Did Suzi<br />
Mango, RRP $19.95<br />
15. Crabtree & Evelyn Nail Polish<br />
Remover Wipes, RRP $8<br />
15. Maybelline New York Express<br />
Remover, RRP $9.95<br />
12.<br />
13.<br />
15.<br />
14.<br />
16.<br />
176 www.cosbeauty.com.au
Editor’s<br />
faves<br />
1<br />
2 3<br />
beauty & spa<br />
4<br />
THE BELLA EDITORIAL<br />
TEAM REVEAL THEIR PICKS FROM<br />
THIS LATEST BEAUTY MUST-HAVES.<br />
1. Clinique Even Better Compact<br />
Makeup SPF 15, RRP $55<br />
2. Sisley Paris Sysley Phyto-Lip Twist,<br />
RRP $55<br />
3. Sisley Paris SisleYouth, RRP $220<br />
4. Advanced Cosmeceuticals Magnifi bres<br />
Brush-On False Lashes, RRP $59.95<br />
5. Laura Mercier Mineral Powder<br />
Foundation SPF 15, RRP $59<br />
6. BeneFit Playstick in Jump Rope, RRP $63<br />
7. Philips Visa Pure, RRP $199<br />
8. BeneFit D<strong>and</strong>elion Powder, RRP $51<br />
9. Chloe Eau De Parfum, RRP $130<br />
10. ELES Mineral Powder Foundation, RRP $64.25<br />
11. Estée Lauder Hydrationist Maximum<br />
Moisture Creme, RRP $75<br />
12. Moroccanoil Treatment Light, RRP $55<br />
13. Rationale ProCeramide Emulsion<br />
Preparatory Cleanser, RRP $90<br />
14. Dr Spiller Silk Serum, RRP $234<br />
15. Invisible Zinc UV Silk Shield<br />
Foundation SPF 30+, RRP $42<br />
16. ASAP Super A+ Serum, RRP $89<br />
17. CR Formulations The One Serum,<br />
RRP $185<br />
18. Dermalogica Super Rich Repair<br />
Gift Set, RRP $110<br />
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www.cosbeauty.com.au 177
Directory<br />
Allmedic<br />
Phone 1300 652 969<br />
admin@allmedic.org.au<br />
www.allmedic.org.au<br />
Australasian College of <strong>Cosmetic</strong> <strong>Surgery</strong><br />
(ACCS)<br />
Phone 1800 804 781<br />
admin@accs.org.au<br />
www.accs.org.au<br />
Dr Buddy Beaini<br />
MD Cosmedical Solutions<br />
Phone 1300 885 808<br />
www.mdcosmedicalsolutions.com.au<br />
Bella Media<br />
Phone +61 02 9398 2755<br />
info@bellamedia.com.au<br />
www.bellamedia.com.au<br />
Clear Complexions<br />
Suzie Hoitink<br />
Canberra +61 02 6251 8889<br />
Sydney +61 02 9555 7287<br />
Eridanle +61 02 6231 0003<br />
Gungahlin +61 02 6241 7660<br />
www.clearcomplexions.com.au<br />
Cosmelan by Mesoestetic<br />
Advanced Cosmeceuticals<br />
Phone 1800 242 011<br />
www.advancedcosmeceuticals.com.au<br />
Cosmetex<br />
Ice Australia<br />
Phone +61 02 9368 1200<br />
cosmetex@cosmetex.org<br />
www.cosmetex.org<br />
<strong>Cosmetic</strong> <strong>Beauty</strong> Directory<br />
Bella Media<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au<br />
Definitive Guides<br />
Phone +61 02 9398 2755<br />
www.bellamedia.com.au<br />
Eclipse Micropen<br />
Avention Global<br />
Phone +61 02 8188 7524<br />
info@aventionglobal.com<br />
www.eclipsemicropen.com<br />
Ellanse<br />
Device Technologies<br />
Phone 1800 429 551<br />
www.device.com.au<br />
Dr John Flynn<br />
Cosmedic & Skin Clinic<br />
Phone 1300 881 388<br />
info@cosmedic.com.au<br />
www.cosmedic.com.au<br />
Fraxel<br />
Solta Medical<br />
Phone +61 02 9999 1081<br />
www.fraxel.com<br />
Dr Joseph Georghy<br />
North Shore <strong>Cosmetic</strong> Clinic<br />
Phone +61 02 9956 7200<br />
www.northshorecosmetic.com.au<br />
Glo-therapeutics & Glo-minerals<br />
Auscos<br />
Phone 1800 66 44 55<br />
www.gloprofessional.com<br />
Dr Darryl J Hodgkinson<br />
<strong>Cosmetic</strong> & Restorative <strong>Surgery</strong> Clinic<br />
Phone +61 02 9362 7400<br />
info@cosmeticsurgeryoz.com<br />
www.cosmeticsurgeryoz.com<br />
Icon Aesthetic<br />
CynoSure<br />
www.cynosureaustralia.com<br />
Val Glover-Hovan<br />
<strong>Cosmetic</strong> Tattoo Australia<br />
Phone +61 02 9938 2111<br />
www.cosmetictattooaustralia.com<br />
Insight Aesthetics<br />
1300 737 393<br />
www.insightaesthetics.com.au<br />
Joseph Mourad Hair & <strong>Beauty</strong><br />
Phone +61 02 9328 2277<br />
contact@josephmourad.com.au<br />
www.josephmourad.com.au<br />
Eva Karpati<br />
Karpati Medispa<br />
Phone +61 02 9363 2395<br />
info@karpatimedispa.com.au<br />
www.karpatimedispa.com.au<br />
Dr Steven Liew<br />
Shape Clinic<br />
Phone +61 02 8356 2888<br />
nola@shapeclinic.com.au<br />
www.shapeclinic.com.au<br />
www.breastshape.com.au<br />
Dr William Mooney<br />
Phone 1300 DR WILL (1300 379 455)<br />
www.rhinoplastysydney.com.au<br />
Dr Colin Moore<br />
The Australian Centre of <strong>Cosmetic</strong> <strong>Surgery</strong><br />
Phone 0414 251 234<br />
info@austcps.com<br />
www.drcolinmoore.com<br />
Dr Pouria Moradi<br />
Silkwood Medical<br />
Phone 1300 SILKWOOD (1300 745 596)<br />
www.silkwoodmedical.com.au<br />
Dr Sarkis Nalb<strong>and</strong>ian<br />
Designer Smiles<br />
Phone +61 02 9953 4189<br />
www.designersmiles.com.au<br />
Dr Warwick Nettle<br />
Silkwood Medical<br />
Phone 1300 SILKWOOD (1300 745 596)<br />
www.silkwoodmedical.com.au<br />
Nicole’s <strong>Beauty</strong><br />
Phone +61 02 9327 7728<br />
Phone 0410 627 767<br />
www.nicolesbeautysalon.com.au<br />
Dr Benjamin Norris<br />
Form <strong>and</strong> Face<br />
Phone 1800 DRNORRIS (1800 376 677)<br />
www.form<strong>and</strong>face.com.au<br />
Obagi<br />
iNova Pharmaceuticals<br />
Phone +61 02 8918 6322<br />
www.inovapharma.com<br />
Omnilux<br />
True Solutions International<br />
Phone 1800 808 993<br />
www.omnilux.com.au<br />
Omnimax<br />
Allure Medical<br />
Phone +61 02 8208 7778<br />
www.alluremedical.com.au<br />
Dr Oseka Onuma<br />
Laser Vaginal Rejuvenation<br />
Institute of Adelaide<br />
Phone +61 08 8344 6085<br />
rooms@dronuma.com<br />
www.dronuma.com<br />
PicoSure<br />
CynoSure<br />
www.picosure.com.au<br />
Pellevé<br />
Medtel<br />
Phone 1300 668 140<br />
Dr Alex Phoon<br />
Silkwood Medical<br />
Phone 1300 SILKWOOD (1300 745 596)<br />
www.silkwoodmedical.com.au<br />
Rita Porreca<br />
Sydney Permanent Makeup Centre<br />
Phone +61 02 9569 7799<br />
info@spmuc.com.au<br />
www.spmuc.com.au<br />
Regen PRP<br />
Australasian Medical & Scientific<br />
Phone 1800 201 760<br />
www.regenlab.com<br />
www.amsl.com.au<br />
Regenesis Fitness<br />
Phone +61 02 9363 0376<br />
info@regenesisfitness.com.au<br />
www.regenesisfitness.com.au<br />
Salon Melbourne<br />
Phone +61 02 9422 2535<br />
www.salonmelbourne.com.au<br />
info@salonmelbourne.com.au<br />
Sculptra<br />
iNova Pharmaceuticals<br />
Phone +61 02 8918 6322<br />
www.inovapharma.com<br />
Shortcuts<br />
Phone 1300 66 73 74<br />
www.shortcuts.com.au<br />
Silimed<br />
Device Technologies<br />
Phone 1800 429 551<br />
www.device.com.au<br />
Silkwood Medical<br />
Phone 1300 SILKWOOD (1300 745 596)<br />
www.silkwoodmedical.com.au<br />
Skin Clinc @ Blyss<br />
Phone +61 02 9664 8011<br />
www.blyssclovelly.com.au<br />
Synergie Minerals<br />
Terri Vinson<br />
Phone 1300 689 619<br />
info@synergieminerals.com<br />
www.synergieskin.com<br />
Ulthera<br />
High Tech Laser<br />
Phone 1300 309 233<br />
www.likeyourlook.com.au<br />
178 www.cosbeauty.com.au
A + B + C<br />
GETTING BACK TO BASICS<br />
SILKWOOD ESSENTIALS BIOACTIVE SKINCARE<br />
Silkwood Medical<br />
Level 4, 75 Grafton Street Bondi Junction NSW 2022<br />
Telephone 1300 SILKWOOD or 1300 745 596<br />
www.silkwoodmedical.com.au
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