CosBeauty Magazine #95
CosBeauty is the #BeautyAddict's guide to lifestyle, health and beauty. In this issue: - 2022 Trend Forecast - The skin & hair revival guide - The New Stone Age: Why crystal healing is having a moment - A fascinating history of anti-wrinkle injections - 24 local brands keeping Australia beautiful
CosBeauty is the #BeautyAddict's guide to lifestyle, health and beauty.
In this issue:
- 2022 Trend Forecast
- The skin & hair revival guide
- The New Stone Age: Why crystal healing is having a moment
- A fascinating history of anti-wrinkle injections
- 24 local brands keeping Australia beautiful
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COSBEAUTY<br />
ISSUE 95 FEB-APRIL 2022<br />
2022<br />
trend<br />
forecast<br />
The new<br />
stone age<br />
WHY CRYSTAL<br />
HEALING IS<br />
HAVING A<br />
MOMENT<br />
A fascinating<br />
history of<br />
anti-wrinkle<br />
injections<br />
24<br />
LOCAL<br />
BRANDS<br />
KEEPING<br />
AUSTRALIA<br />
BEAUTIFUL<br />
9 771833 383011<br />
ISSN 1834-383X<br />
02<br />
The skin<br />
& hair<br />
revival<br />
guide
.com.au<br />
moisturising<br />
in all forms<br />
A range formulated with highly efficient<br />
active ingredients that provide all skin types<br />
with an optimal level of hydration.<br />
Hyaluronic acid is a key ingredient within<br />
the range, to help prevent dehydration at all<br />
levels. This is combined with antioxidant and<br />
anti-pollution active ingredients to provide<br />
an additional protective action.<br />
the element for skincare experts<br />
mesoestetic.com.au | 1800 242 011
CLEAR + BRILLIANT<br />
now<br />
available<br />
with<br />
nicole<br />
As we age, the amount of maintenance required to keep a youthful look will increase,<br />
but getting started early is a huge advantage. Filling the gap between over-the-counter<br />
treatments and more aggressive laser offerings, Clear + Brilliant creates and defi nes an<br />
entirely new category of laser aesthetic treatments for clients moving along the skincare<br />
continuum. Clear + Brilliant helps prevent and address early signs of ageing, resulting in a<br />
brighter, more even skin tone. Treatments are comfortable, fast, effective and suitable for<br />
all skin types. The results are both immediate and progressive, depending on the age and<br />
condition of the skin. It is also great for those who are looking for short downtime and a quick<br />
skin ‘pick-me-up’. Call Nicole now to take advantage of an opening offer.<br />
02 9327 7728<br />
mobile 0410 627 767<br />
mobile 0410 627 767<br />
nicole@nicolesbeautysalon.com.au<br />
nicole@nicolesbeautysalon.com.au<br />
Shop 8, 401 - 407 New South Head Rd,<br />
Shop 8, 401 - 407 New South Head Rd,<br />
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Double Bay NSW 2028<br />
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46 The new stone age<br />
Crystal healing, long the domain<br />
of new-age pseudoscience,<br />
is having a moment – and the<br />
beauty industry wants in.<br />
66 Post-summer hair revival<br />
Tresses in distress? Prepare to<br />
repair with these hydrating<br />
hair heroes.<br />
72 The Aussie brands keeping<br />
Australia beautiful<br />
Some of our favourite local<br />
products to give you that<br />
undeniable Aussie glow.<br />
82 Cool, calm and collected<br />
Is your skin sending out an SOS?<br />
We have the products to help you<br />
shield and repair your skin from<br />
the sins of summer.<br />
REGULARS<br />
10 Editor’s Letter<br />
12 Beauty Insider<br />
110 Ed’s Faves<br />
FEATURES<br />
54 Skincare myths busted<br />
Could the active ingredients in<br />
your skincare product be doing<br />
more damage than good to<br />
your skin?<br />
90 Beauty & beyond<br />
Meet the lady bosses behind<br />
two Australian success stories.<br />
98 Under the knife: Is the Australian<br />
cosmetic surgery industry<br />
getting a facelift?<br />
We report on the current<br />
‘cosmetic surgeon’ crisis in<br />
Australia and proposed changes<br />
to the industry.<br />
102 The most popular anti-ageing<br />
treatmentof all time<br />
As Botox Cosmetic celebrates<br />
its 20th birthday this year,<br />
we take a trip down memory<br />
lane with the founders of this<br />
revolutionary treatment.<br />
BEAUTY<br />
30 2022 beauty trend forecast<br />
The future looks bright – with<br />
a focus on sustainability,<br />
diversity, accessibility and<br />
personalisation.
WELLNESS<br />
106 Everything you knew about<br />
metabolism may be wrong<br />
Recent research has shaken<br />
widely held weight loss theories<br />
to the core.<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 9
From the<br />
EDITOR<br />
It’s hard to believe we’re already in February 2022! This year has already started<br />
with its fair share of ups and downs – the down being we’re still in the midst<br />
of a pandemic, and the up being there is light at the end of the tunnel. In the<br />
beauty world, the future certainly looks bright. For the first time, we are seeing a<br />
shift in power, with consumers setting the trends and evolving beauty standards that put<br />
inclusion, accessibility, diversity and sustainability at the fore. You can read more about<br />
2022’s forecast on page 30.<br />
Shopping local is more important than ever in our collective quest for sustainable<br />
beauty. A brand’s footprint matters and as consumers we’re increasingly making our<br />
purchasing decisions based on a brand’s environmental impact just as much as we are on<br />
the product’s efficacy. On page 72 we showcase some of the Aussie brands leading the<br />
way with sustainable, eco-friendly, high-performing beauty products.<br />
The Aussie summer is slowly drawing to a close. If, like me, you’ve enjoyed a bit too<br />
much fun in the sun and saltwater, now’s the time to repair your skin and hair from the<br />
sins of summer. Check out our tried and tested favourite skincare products on page 82,<br />
and our hair repair heroes on page 66.<br />
We had so much fun this issue taking a trip down memory lane with the founders of<br />
Botox Cosmetic. From page 102 you can learn about the birth of anti-wrinkle injections,<br />
past, present and possible uses, and how it’s become the most popular anti-ageing<br />
treatment of all time.<br />
For more inspirational stories, we’re also proud to profile two Aussie success stories<br />
in the local beauty industry on page 90. Plus, as always, we share the latest products and<br />
treatments from both here and abroad.<br />
Happy reading, and here’s to a positive and empowering year ahead!<br />
Issue 95<br />
Feb – April 2022<br />
Editor-in-Chief<br />
Michelle Kearney<br />
Art Director<br />
Debbie Pilarinos<br />
Writers<br />
David Hickie,<br />
Aimeé Rodrigues<br />
Photographers<br />
Debbie Pilarinos, ShutterStock<br />
Distribution &<br />
Subscription Enquiries<br />
Bill Dunk<br />
Phone 02 8095 6265 Mob 0410 528 582<br />
Email bill@bellamedia.com.au<br />
Advertising Enquiries<br />
Michelle Kearney<br />
Phone 02 8095 6265 Mob 0419 624 246<br />
Email michelle@bellamedia.com.au<br />
Editorial Enquiries<br />
Michelle Kearney<br />
Phone 02 8095 6265 Mob 0419 624 246<br />
Email michelle@bellamedia.com.au<br />
Produced & Published by Bella Media<br />
ABN 86 082 157 695<br />
Managing Director<br />
Michelle Kearney<br />
Chief Operating Officer<br />
Bill Dunk<br />
Public Relations, Marketing<br />
& Event Organisation<br />
Phone 02 8095 6265<br />
OFFICE ADDRESS<br />
Suite 2201, Level 22 Westfield Tower 2<br />
101 Grafton St,<br />
Bondi Junction NSW, 2022<br />
Phone +61 2 8095 6265<br />
www.bellamedia.com.au<br />
Michelle Kearney<br />
Editor-in-Chief<br />
michelle@bellamedia.com.au<br />
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cosbeauty AND aestheticadvisor_au<br />
Visit our new website, www.aestheticadvisor.com.au, the trusted online resource<br />
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READ THE ONLINE EDITION PLUS MORE GREAT ARTICLES @<br />
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Reproduction in whole or in part is not permitted without the<br />
written authorisation of the publisher. All reasonable efforts have<br />
been made to trace copyright holders. All manuscripts and articles<br />
submitted for publication remain the property of The Bella Media<br />
Group. This magazine contains general information only and does<br />
not purport to be a substitute for medical advice. All readers<br />
are advised to seek medical advice from a doctor if considering<br />
cosmetic surgery. The publisher and the authors do not accept<br />
any liability whatsoever in respect of an action taken by readers in<br />
reliance on the recommendations set out in this magazine. Except<br />
where specified in captions, photographs depict models who have<br />
not necessarily received treatments described in this magazine.<br />
Any ‘before and after’ photographs in <strong>CosBeauty</strong> <strong>Magazine</strong><br />
articles are of genuine patients. It is important to understand<br />
that they represent one person’s experience and there is<br />
no guarantee that any other patient will experience similar results.
@cosbeauty<br />
Beauty insider<br />
THE WHO’S WHO AND WHAT’S NEW IN BEAUTY.<br />
RIHANNA’S NEW LUXURY<br />
FRAGRANCE DROPS<br />
Defying categorisation, Fenty Eau<br />
de Parfum is spicy and sweet all at<br />
once and is designed to be worn<br />
by all people, for all occasions.<br />
Inspired by some of Rihanna’s most<br />
distinct memories and places from<br />
throughout her life – Bridgetown,<br />
Barbados; Grasse, France; New<br />
York, New York; Paris, France;<br />
Los Angeles, California – Rihanna<br />
created Fenty Eau de Parfum as a<br />
scent personal both to herself and<br />
to others. It evokes the memories,<br />
connections and experiences<br />
unique to each person through the<br />
power of scent.<br />
‘I wanted a rich colour that<br />
really represented all genders<br />
from across all walks of life,’ says<br />
Rihanna. ‘Brown is my favourite<br />
colour. Brown is who I am. Brown<br />
is what I come from. If I’m going to<br />
make a fragrance that represents<br />
me, even the body language of<br />
the bottle needs to marry that. So,<br />
I wanted something brown, but<br />
also transparent – so you could see<br />
the liquid and the fragrance you’re<br />
about to experience.’<br />
This is confidence in a bottle.<br />
Where to buy: Fenty Eau de<br />
Parfum ($225 AUD) is available<br />
exclusively at FentyBeauty.com<br />
in limited quantities and for<br />
international shipping.<br />
12
@cosbeauty<br />
CELEBRATING THE YEAR<br />
OF THE TIGER<br />
February 1 marks the Lunar New<br />
Year and the beginning of the Year<br />
of the Tiger! To celebrate, some of<br />
our favourite brands are offering<br />
special edition sets and products.<br />
SkinCeuticals’ Lunar New Year<br />
set takes the guesswork out of a<br />
luxurious and efficacious skincare<br />
routine with a kit designed to<br />
soothe, calm and clarify the<br />
complexion.<br />
This limited-edition skincare<br />
bundle is the perfect foray into<br />
the world of SkinCeuticals, with<br />
products combined to provide<br />
advanced environmental protection<br />
and soothe visible redness.<br />
The skincare kit contains: Phyto<br />
Corrective Essence Hydrating Mist<br />
10ml, 3x Phloretin CF Vitamin C<br />
Serum 4ml, Phyto Corrective Gel<br />
Calming Serum 30ml, and 2x Phyto<br />
Corrective Hydrating Masque 4ml.<br />
SkinCeuticals Lunar New Year<br />
Bundle is available for purchase<br />
for $180 RRP on the SkinCeuticals<br />
website and other stockists.<br />
Clinique is celebrating the Lunar<br />
New Year with four of its bright<br />
stars refashioned in limited-edition<br />
Year of the Tiger packaging:<br />
Jumbo Dramatically Different<br />
Moisturising Lotion+ 200ml $70,<br />
Jumbo Dramatically Different Oil-<br />
Control Gel 200ml $70, Jumbo Even<br />
Better Clinical Radical Dark Spot<br />
Corrector + Interruptor 100ml $195,<br />
and Cheek Pop Highlighter in Gold<br />
Celebration Pop $42.<br />
Sisley Paris is also celebrating<br />
the occasion with the release of a<br />
limited-edition gift box including<br />
five iconic luxury travel size Sisley<br />
essentials with any $300+ Sisley<br />
purchase at David Jones. The gift<br />
set includes Lyslait 30ml, Floral<br />
Toner 30ml, Black Rose Cream<br />
Mask 10ml, All Day All<br />
Year 10ml and Sisleÿa<br />
L’Intégral Anti-Âge<br />
Firming Serum 5ml.<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 13
@cosbeauty<br />
FUSSPOT COLLAGEN TEA’S NEW<br />
SLEEP RANGE<br />
Yes, you really can have it all!<br />
Fusspot’s Sleep Tea range – Cloud<br />
Nine and Chai So High – helps you<br />
to drift off to slumberland while<br />
waking up with glowing skin.<br />
Hydrolysed collagen peptides<br />
are at the core of this Australianowned<br />
consumable beauty product.<br />
With premium quality collagen<br />
peptides that help enhance inner<br />
wellbeing, your complexion enjoys<br />
the ingredients it needs to become<br />
more luminous.<br />
Cloud Nine tea is packed with<br />
antioxidants to promote beauty<br />
from within while helping you wind<br />
down with a good night’s sleep that<br />
leaves you refreshed and glowing.<br />
Ingredients: Chamomile flowers,<br />
lemon balm leaf, passionflower,<br />
lavender flowers, scullcap leaf with<br />
hydrolysed collagen.<br />
Chai So High is a tasty mix of<br />
herbs and spices, whirled together<br />
with hydrolysed collagen to give<br />
your skin and body a boost.<br />
Ingredients: Hydrolysed collagen,<br />
spices including ground cinnamon,<br />
ground ginger, ground cardamon,<br />
turmeric powder, and ground cloves.<br />
Where to buy: Head to<br />
https://fusspottea.com/<br />
SKIN FRUIT – SKINCARE<br />
DESIGNED TO RESET YOUR SKIN<br />
New on our radar is Skin Fruit, an<br />
Australian-owned and operated<br />
high-performance skincare range<br />
designed for sensitive skin. The<br />
cleanser and moisturiser feature<br />
botanicals that work to help reset<br />
and get your skin glowing, so you<br />
can wake up feeling confident with<br />
clearer skin.<br />
Skin Fruit was founded in 2019<br />
by pharmacist Amanda Dang who,<br />
after years of trying out countless<br />
products to help alleviate her own<br />
skin sensitivity issues, became<br />
hugely frustrated with the quantity of<br />
products in the marketplace which<br />
were ineffective, confusing and<br />
weakened her skin barrier.<br />
Amanda finally narrowed down<br />
a few key ingredients which were<br />
highly beneficial in restoring her<br />
own skin. From this, she worked<br />
together with a cosmetic chemist to<br />
formulate a skincare range that was<br />
intentionally minimal, purposeful,<br />
and contained effective daily skin<br />
botanical ingredients that were<br />
soothing and rejuvenating to help<br />
keep skin happy and clear from<br />
breakouts, redness and itchiness.<br />
The hero products include<br />
the Non-Stripping Cleanser and<br />
Protective Moisturizer, helping<br />
to improve dryness, dehydration,<br />
redness, and sensitivity.<br />
Where to buy: Head to<br />
https://skinfruit.com.au<br />
14
@cosbeauty<br />
IS CLINICAL ACTIVE PEEL<br />
SYSTEM LAUNCHES<br />
Internationally loved serious skincare brand<br />
iS CLINICAL is launching a powerful yet<br />
gentle, fast-acting 2-step at-home treatment<br />
designed to polish and resurface skin<br />
while providing hydration and antioxidant<br />
protection. Set to become another one of<br />
the brand’s cult performers, the simple yet<br />
ingenious system improves skin tone, texture<br />
and smoothness and helps to reduce the<br />
look of fine lines and wrinkles and pore size.<br />
Read our full report on page 42.<br />
Where to buy: For a list of stockists and<br />
clinics, check out www.isclinical.com.au<br />
NEW NATURAL HAIRCARE RANGE<br />
YOUR HAIR WILL THANK YOU FOR<br />
What if we paid as much attention to<br />
the ingredients in our haircare as we did<br />
our skincare? Well, 2022 is the year to<br />
up your haircare game and shop cleaner<br />
and greener. And weDo/ Professional is<br />
making it a cinch.<br />
Recently launched by the Wella<br />
Company, weDo/ Professional is a range<br />
of recyclable vegan hair products for<br />
hair (and skin!), certified by the Vegan<br />
Society and Cruelty Free International.<br />
From sulphate-free shampoo and<br />
plastic-free shampoo bars to siliconefree<br />
hair oils and masks, create your<br />
perfect hair care routine knowing this<br />
eco-ethical brand follows a minimalist<br />
formula design that ensures high<br />
performance and peace of mind.<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 15
Nothing is worth<br />
more than laughter.<br />
It is strength to<br />
laugh and to abandon<br />
oneself, to be light.<br />
Frida<br />
Kahlo<br />
16
www.cosbeauty.com.au 17
A smile is a<br />
curve that<br />
sets everything<br />
straight.<br />
Phyllis Diller<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 19
Those who do<br />
not know how to<br />
weep with their<br />
whole heart don’t<br />
know how to<br />
laugh either.<br />
Golda Meir
www.cosbeauty.com.au 21
22<br />
Credit: Featureflash Photo Agency / Shutterstock.com
Wit is the key, I<br />
think, to anybody’s<br />
heart, because<br />
who doesn’t like<br />
to laugh?<br />
Julia<br />
Roberts<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 23
Laugh, my friend,<br />
for laughter ignites<br />
a fire within the pit<br />
of your belly and<br />
awakens your being.<br />
STELLA<br />
MCCARTNEY
Credit: lev radin / Shutterstock.com<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 25
26<br />
Credit: Sherlock_wijaya / Shutterstock.com
If you can make<br />
a woman laugh,<br />
you can make<br />
her do anything.<br />
Marilyn<br />
Monroe<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 27
I love people who<br />
make me laugh.<br />
I honestly think<br />
it’s the thing I like<br />
most, to laugh. It<br />
cures a multitude<br />
of ills. It’s probably<br />
the most important<br />
thing in a person.<br />
Audrey<br />
28
Hepburnw www.cosbeauty.com.au ww.cosbeauty.com.au 29
BEAUTY<br />
30 www.cosbeauty.com.au
BEAUTY<br />
TREND<br />
FORECAST<br />
THE FUTURE LOOKS BRIGHT<br />
– WITH EMERGING BEAUTY<br />
STANDARDS THAT PUT DIVERSITY AND<br />
SUSTAINABILITY AT THE FORE.<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 31
BEAUTY<br />
Authenticity<br />
1.<br />
If anything good came out of 2020/21, it’s the new and improved beauty<br />
standards we’re finally beginning to see. Brands are championing<br />
diversity, inclusion and accessibility by expanding and adapting their<br />
product offerings, helping us stay true to our authentic selves and<br />
embracing what makes each of us special.<br />
‘The industry is progressive. When we talk about inclusion and<br />
diversity, the industry has focused longer on trying to serve [customer]<br />
needs, from an assortment standpoint, [compared to] other industries,’<br />
Monica Arnaudo, Chief Merchandising Officer at Ulta Beauty, told<br />
Glossy.co. ‘What is happening [trend-wise] does have a larger impact<br />
on the beauty landscape… The insights we’ve garnered and the trends<br />
for the last couple of years have shaped the beauty landscape and will<br />
continue to shape it. [Trend adoptions] are going to be even faster than<br />
we’ve seen in the past.’<br />
Rohan Widdison, founder and CEO of cosmetic formulator New<br />
Laboratories, says one of the main trends we’re expecting to see in<br />
2022 is a shift in power from the beauty industry to the consumer.<br />
‘Instead of the beauty industry setting the trends which consumers<br />
follow, 2022 will see more brands being consciously driven by social<br />
awareness and led by consumers, instead of the traditional supplier<br />
trend-setting approach which has been the way of the past,’ he says.<br />
3.<br />
Sustainability<br />
A brand’s footprint is going to matter even more in 2022.<br />
Sustainability is now an industry standard, and consumers are<br />
making their purchasing decisions just as much on a brand’s<br />
environmental impact as they are on the product’s efficacy. We want<br />
to know exactly what goes into a product, how an ingredient is<br />
sourced and harvested, how the product is made and manufactured<br />
and how it can be recycled, refilled and reused.<br />
‘Consumers are becoming increasingly sustainably conscious and<br />
are expecting their brands to do the same,’ says Widdison. ‘Whilst<br />
nearly all companies have sustainable practices in place, consumers<br />
are expecting more from their brands in this space, including more<br />
plastic-free products, refillable packaging, fair and ethical sourcing<br />
and a proactive approach to reducing overconsumption.’<br />
In a recent Instagram survey of 1,200 weekly social media users<br />
between 13- and 24-years old, one-third said they are interested<br />
in learning more about clean makeup and skincare in 2022, buying<br />
vegan makeup and plant-based skincare, and using fewer products.<br />
32 www.cosbeauty.com.au
Credit: Charlie Edward / Shutterstock.com<br />
2.<br />
Digitalisation<br />
With artificial intelligence (AI), 3D printing,<br />
augmented reality and DNA analysis, the beauty<br />
industry is becoming increasingly technologydriven<br />
in delivering personalisation in ways that<br />
the traditional cosmetic counter cannot,’ says<br />
Widdison. ‘With consumers’ needs changing and<br />
demanding more custom and specific results,<br />
such as exact skincare matches and personalised<br />
formulas, digitalisation of the beauty industry will<br />
continue to increase in 2022,’ he shares.<br />
4.<br />
The curly<br />
hair<br />
revolution<br />
‘2022 is the year for curly hair to thrive! It’s been a<br />
long time coming – throughout the world, 65% of<br />
our population are living with wavy, curly or Afro<br />
(aka coily) hair,’ says Rumbie Mutsiwa, founder of<br />
RUMBIE & CO, Australia’s leading curl specialist<br />
salon. She says to look out for ‘wash & go’<br />
au naturel styles, curly bangs, the middle part,<br />
the retro shag and braids.<br />
High-puff hairstyles are also huge. According<br />
to Pinterest’s 2022 beauty trend roundup,<br />
embracing the natural hair movement is driving<br />
the popularity of high-puff hairstyles, the simple<br />
and chic curly-girl updo.<br />
‘High puff hairstyle’ searches grew 165% in the<br />
period between October 2019 and September<br />
2021, while ‘natural hair bun styles’ searches<br />
increased 160%.<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 33
Makeup<br />
Report:<br />
Natural Beauty<br />
5.<br />
BEAUTY<br />
If more was less in 2021, this year we’ll be seeing even<br />
more pared-back looks. Think natural skin shining<br />
through rather than your typical ‘Instagram makeup’<br />
look. Not matte, not extremely dewy, but something<br />
silky in the middle.<br />
1.<br />
2.<br />
3.<br />
1. Sisley Phyto-Blanc Le Cushion (on counter 13 March 2022),<br />
$170, 2. Arbonne Sheer Glow Highlight Stick, $69, 3. Trinny<br />
London BFF Rebalance, $75, 4. Fenty Beauty Liquid Killawatt<br />
Fluid Freestyle Highlighter in Hu$tla Baby, $39, 5. Charlotte<br />
Tilbury Beautiful Skin Foundation in Warm, $65, 6. IT Cosmetics<br />
Your Skin But Better CC+ Cream SPF50, $63, 7. Sisley Phyto-Teint<br />
Nude, $120, 8. L’Oréal Paris True Match Nude Plumping Tinted<br />
Serum, $39.95, 9. Youngblood Mineral Cosmetics Hydra-Glow<br />
Treatment Balm, $79.95, 10. Ella Baché Superfluid Great SPF50+<br />
Skin Tint, $56, 11. Lycogel Breathable Camouflage, $108, 12.<br />
IT Cosmetics Confidence In A Cream 60ml, $75<br />
4.<br />
5.<br />
7.<br />
6.<br />
34 www.cosbeauty.com.au
8.<br />
9.<br />
11.<br />
12.<br />
10.<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 35
BEAUTY<br />
6.<br />
Makeup Report:<br />
Bold & Creative<br />
While a bit counterintuitive with the concurrent minimalist<br />
skin look, pops of colour are also reemerging. Unleash your<br />
creativity with graphic liners in red and sapphire, crystal eye<br />
makeup (yes, using sticker face gems) and throwback glossy<br />
lips in bright pinks and reds.<br />
2.<br />
1. L’Oreal Paris Paris Le Liner Signature Gold Velvet,<br />
$18.33, 2. Rimmel London Exaggerate Waterproof<br />
Eye Definer in Aqua Sparkle, $12.95, 3. Stila After<br />
Hours Eye Shadow Palette $114.25, 4. Arbonne It’s<br />
All In The Eyes Eye Shadow Palette - Volume 2, $86,<br />
5. Trinny London Eye2Eye Eyetallics in Persephone,<br />
$34, 6. Trinny London Lip Luxe in Pookie, $40, 7.<br />
Stila Glitter and Glow Liquid Eye Shadow in Kitten<br />
Karma, $34, 8. Fenty Beauty Gloss Bomb Heat<br />
Lip Luminizer + Plumper, $35, 9. NYX Professional<br />
Makeup Glitter Primer $12.95, 10. Arbonne Glossed<br />
Over Lip Gloss in Primrose, $40<br />
4.<br />
5.<br />
3.<br />
1.<br />
7.<br />
8.<br />
6.<br />
9.<br />
10.<br />
36 www.cosbeauty.com.au
Pantone Veri Peri<br />
Colour of the Year<br />
1.<br />
2022’s colour of the year is ‘Very Peri’, a periwinkle blue hue<br />
with violet-red undertones that symbolises transition, new<br />
possibilities and the global zeitgeist of the moment.<br />
‘The Pantone Colour of the Year reflects what is taking place<br />
in our global culture, expressing what people are looking<br />
for that colour can hope to answer,’ says Laurie Pressman,<br />
Vice President of the Pantone Colour Institute. ‘Creating a<br />
new colour for the first time in the history of our Pantone<br />
Colour of the Year educational colour program reflects<br />
the global innovation and transformation taking place. As<br />
society continues to recognise colour as a critical form of<br />
communication, and a way to express and affect ideas and<br />
emotions and engage and connect, the complexity of this<br />
new red violet-infused blue hue highlights the expansive<br />
possibilities that lay before us.’<br />
TikTok-ers are au fait with the colour purple. The platform’s<br />
purple blush trend has risen to makeup stardom – since the<br />
trend began in October 2021, the hashtag #purpleblush has<br />
garnered well over 16 million views on TikTok.<br />
2.<br />
3.<br />
1. Sisley Phyto-Blush Twist Berry, $85, 2. Sisley Phyto-<br />
Lip Twist Soft Berry, $60, 3. Anastasia Beverly Hills<br />
Norvina Pro Pigment Eyeshadow Palette Vol 5, $110<br />
4. OPI Infinite Shine Hollywood Collection Nail Polish<br />
in Oh You Sing, Dance, Act and Produce, $22.95<br />
4.<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 37
SKIN
the<br />
SKINCARE<br />
SOLUTION<br />
every skin<br />
needs<br />
WE’RE CALLING IT. MESOESTETIC’S<br />
MOISTURISING SOLUTIONS MAY BE THE MOST<br />
EXCEPTIONAL SKINCARE LINE WE’VE TRIED.<br />
2022 is already looking better than<br />
its predecessor, with mesoestetic<br />
just dropping their new-look<br />
moisturising solutions range. This is<br />
moisturising at all levels for all skin<br />
types, complete with antioxidant and<br />
anti-pollution active ingredients for a<br />
one-stop solution to your post-summer<br />
skin hydration woes.<br />
The moisturising solutions range<br />
is formulated with highly effective<br />
active ingredients that provide the<br />
skin with an optimal level of hydration<br />
to help maintain it in an optimal<br />
aesthetic condition. It also offers<br />
solutions tailored to the unique needs<br />
of each skin type.<br />
The mechanisms that regulate skin<br />
hydration levels can become altered<br />
by various factors (age, stress, hormonal<br />
changes, environmental factors<br />
and so on), which can cause a dull<br />
complexion, rough and uneven skin<br />
texture, deeper wrinkles, irritation,<br />
etc. In order to help prevent<br />
dehydration and maintain the skin<br />
in its best condition, mesoestetic’s<br />
moisturising solutions feature a series<br />
of products with highly effective active<br />
ingredients.<br />
The new-release hydra-vital light is<br />
breaking skincare ground, helping to<br />
prevent dehydration at all levels in the<br />
skin and providing additional protective<br />
action through antioxidant and antipollution<br />
active ingredients.<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 39
ha densimatrix, $159<br />
SKIN<br />
Intensive moisturising concentrate<br />
with hyaluronic acid, suitable for<br />
all skin types<br />
ha densimatrix combines hyaluronic<br />
acid in multiple molecular forms<br />
for penetration at different levels. It<br />
also includes the anti-hyaluronidase<br />
complex, to protect HA from<br />
degradation and help prevent<br />
visible oxidation caused by external<br />
aggressions, and the antiaging pro<br />
complex, to help promote visible<br />
firmness and elasticity, minimising<br />
the appearance of wrinkles.<br />
It has an anti-ageing, plumping<br />
and protective action, and provides a<br />
deeply intense and fresh hydration.<br />
hydra-vital factor k, $149<br />
Moisturising and nourishing cream<br />
for normal and dry skin<br />
hydra-vital factor k is a rich moisturising<br />
cream with a protective action and an<br />
exclusive formulation which provides<br />
a very similar role to the natural<br />
moisturising factor (containing amino<br />
acids, urea, allantoin and lactic acid). In<br />
addition, the key ingredient Vitamin E,<br />
provides an antioxidant effect that helps<br />
protect the skin against free radicals,<br />
which are responsible for accelerating<br />
visible skin ageing. Provides deep<br />
hydration all day long.
hydravital mask, $118<br />
Moisturising mask for dry and<br />
dehydrated skin<br />
hydravital mask is an intensive<br />
moisturising mask that combines<br />
hyaluronic acid and viola tricolor<br />
extract in its formulation to<br />
provide immediate, efficient and<br />
homogeneous hydration. Thanks<br />
to key ingredients argan oil and<br />
panthenol, the skin recovers the lipids<br />
essential for comfort and balance,<br />
helping promote a restorative,<br />
soothing and anti-redness action.<br />
In addition, the formula’s postbiotic<br />
active ingredient (Lactobacillus<br />
Ferment) enhances the balance of the<br />
microbiota to help strengthen and<br />
preserve the appearance of the skin<br />
barrier, while active ingredient Urban<br />
D-Tox helps protect the skin against<br />
the visible effects of pollution.<br />
It is perfect for applying after sun<br />
exposure and can be stored in the<br />
refrigerator to achieve a fresh cool<br />
feeling in the hot months.<br />
INTRODUCING<br />
hydra-vital light<br />
$118<br />
Refreshing moisturising gel-cream for normal,<br />
combination and oily skin<br />
hydra-vital light, as the name suggests, has a<br />
light and non-oily texture allowing for rapid<br />
absorption. It provides an immediate feeling of<br />
freshness, softness and comfort while helping<br />
protect skin against the visible effects of<br />
pollution. It is also perfect for summer skin that<br />
can’t tolerate heavy textures due to the heat.<br />
hydra-vital light contains hyaluronic acid<br />
in different molecular weights and forms,<br />
providing optimal and lasting hydration; Urban<br />
D-tox, an antioxidant and anti-pollution active<br />
ingredient; and a plant-based polysaccharide<br />
that helps aid in the repair of the skin barrier<br />
function, therefore helping to prevent<br />
transepidermal water loss.<br />
Refreshing and with long-lasting hydration,<br />
hydra-vital light is non-comedogenic and has<br />
been dermatologically tested.<br />
WHERE TO GET IT<br />
The moisturising solutions range is available at mesoestetic clinics.<br />
For more information, visit mesoestetic.com.au or call 1800 242 011<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 41
SKIN<br />
How to age-proof<br />
your skin in<br />
steps<br />
POLISH AND PERFECT YOUR SKIN<br />
WITH IS CLINICAL’S NEW CLINICALLY<br />
ADVANCED AND BOTANICALLY<br />
2BASED ACTIVE PEEL SYSTEM.<br />
Vetted by dermatologists, backed<br />
by hard science and praised<br />
by many Hollywood A-listers,<br />
it’s hardly surprising iS CLINICAL<br />
has reached cult status. The brand has<br />
taken the skincare world by storm, due<br />
to its effective, proven ingredients in<br />
optimal concentrations that deliver<br />
real, visible results.<br />
And now iS CLINICAL has<br />
launched its much-anticipated Active<br />
Peel System, a gentle resurfacing<br />
treatment that is revolutionising the<br />
at-home skin treatment market.<br />
iS Clinical Active Peel System is<br />
an advanced two-step exfoliating
treatment based on botanical<br />
ingredients that resurfaces and<br />
rejuvenates the skin. This wellbalanced<br />
system also moisturises and<br />
brightens the skin while providing<br />
the skin with antioxidant protection.<br />
Designed to use every other day, the<br />
result is smoother skin texture, more<br />
even tone and a more youthful-looking<br />
complexion. It’s super easy to use, too;<br />
the peel pads quickly and effectively<br />
exfoliate and renew the skin without<br />
the need for water or a removal<br />
process.<br />
UNIQUE 2-STEP<br />
PROCESS<br />
Cosmeceutical products for home use<br />
have exponentially grown in popularity<br />
since COVID-19 began. Although<br />
several brands of home peel pads<br />
are available, the Active Peel System<br />
consists of a unique two-step process.<br />
Step 1 is designed to provide<br />
controlled exfoliation and assist with<br />
the removal of devitalised skin. It<br />
features a proprietary combination<br />
of powerful yet gentle botanical acids<br />
combined with soothing, nurturing<br />
botanical extracts.<br />
Step 2 is the neutraliser for Step<br />
1 and also provides hydration and<br />
rejuvenation. It features the<br />
brand’s proprietary botanical<br />
extremozyme technology and Copper<br />
Tripeptide-1 combined with soothing<br />
active botanicals.<br />
The Active Peel system may be used<br />
as a stand-alone home facial treatment<br />
system or to prep and support the skin<br />
for more focused or aggressive in-office<br />
treatments.<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 43
SKIN<br />
CLINICAL STUDY<br />
RESULTS<br />
A clinical study supported by iS Clinical<br />
evaluated the benefits of the Active Peel<br />
Improvements Improvements in fine lines and fine wrinkles, lines and texture, wrinkles, smoothness, texture, smoothness, luminosity, luminosit<br />
radiance, brightness, radiance, brightness, and periorbital and periorbital wrinkles. wrinkles.<br />
ACTIVE ACTIVE PEEL PEEL SYSTEM PEEL SYSTEM<br />
59 Year Old 59 | Year Caucasian Old | Caucasian | Female | Female<br />
System in improving dermal thickness/ Improvements Improvements in sagging, 19% fine sagging, lines 19% increase and fine wrinkles, increase lines and in expression wrinkles, lines, expression<br />
density and visual appearance of the skin,<br />
luminosity,<br />
including fine lines and wrinkles, laxity/<br />
DERMAL smoothness, luminosity, DERMAL THICKNESS/DENSITY<br />
smoothness, texture, and texture, sallowness. and sallowness.<br />
sagging, periorbital darkness, overall<br />
by using by Active using Peel Active System Peel System<br />
brightness, texture, pore size, radiance, 60 Year Old 60 | Native Year Old American | Native | American Female | Female<br />
luminosity, tone and smoothness.<br />
Thirty female subjects between 37 and<br />
Improvements Improvements in appearance in appearance of lines & of wrinkles, lines & wrinkles, laxity/sagging, laxity/sagging, periorbital periorbital darkness,<br />
64 years of age and of various ethnic<br />
backgrounds participated in this study. overall brightness, overall brightness, texture, pore texture, size, pore radiance, size, radiance, luminosity, luminosity, tone, and tone, smoothness. and Subjects were instructed to cleanse their<br />
BEFORE<br />
8 weeks AFTER. Improvements in fine lines and wrinkles,<br />
BEFORE BEFORE<br />
texture, smoothness, luminosity,<br />
8 WEEKS<br />
radiance, brightness<br />
8 WEEKS<br />
and<br />
face, and then use the two-step Active Peel<br />
50 Year 50 Old Year | African Old | African American periorbital American wrinkles. | Female| Female<br />
System every other evening on clean skin<br />
and according to application instructions<br />
for a period of eight weeks. Visia Improvements Improvements in fine lines and fine wrinkles, lines and sallowness, wrinkles, sallowness, texture, and texture, tone. and tone<br />
photographs were taken of each subject at<br />
intervals throughout the study.<br />
48 Year Old 48 | Year Caucasian Old | Caucasian | Female | Female<br />
In this study, skin density/thickness was<br />
evaluated by dermal ultrasound. Higher<br />
values for skin density/thickness correlate<br />
to higher collagen content and younger age. BEFORE BEFORE<br />
8 WEEKS 8 WEEKS<br />
This indicates a more youthful appearance,<br />
better skin recovery and resilience against<br />
traction stress (as with gravity), and delayed<br />
Improvements Improvements in hyperpigmentation, in hyperpigmentation, tone, texture, tone, brightness, texture, smoothness,<br />
brightness, sm<br />
onset of the visual appearance of ageing.<br />
Visia photographs of subjects at 8 weeks<br />
and underlying and inflammation.<br />
underlying inflammation.<br />
demonstrated improvements in sagging,<br />
fine lines and wrinkles, expression lines, BEFORE<br />
52<br />
BEFORE<br />
Year Old 52 | Latinx Year Old | Female | Latinx<br />
4<br />
|<br />
WEEKS<br />
Female<br />
4 WEEKS<br />
BEFORE<br />
8 weeks AFTER. Improvements in appearance of lines<br />
luminosity, smoothness, texture and<br />
BEFORE BEFORE<br />
and wrinkles, laxity/sagging, 8 WEEKS<br />
periorbital darkness, 8 WEEKS overall<br />
brightness, texture, pore size, radiance, luminosity, tone<br />
sallowness, as well as improvements in<br />
and smoothness.<br />
hyperpigmentation, tone, brightness and<br />
luminosity and underlying inflammation.<br />
Ultrasound measurements of dermal<br />
thickness/density indicated a 19% increase<br />
in dermal thickness/density by using Active<br />
Peel System compared with the baseline<br />
at the start of the study. This correlates<br />
to significant improvements in collagen<br />
density and deposition.<br />
Active Peel System was well tolerated by<br />
all subjects and no product-related adverse<br />
events occurred. CBM<br />
BEFORE<br />
BEFORE<br />
BEFORE<br />
8 weeks AFTER. Improvements in hyperpigmentation, tone,<br />
texture, brightness, smoothness and underlying inflammation.<br />
8 WEEKS<br />
8 WEEKS
SKIN-LOVING<br />
BENEFITS<br />
Reduces the<br />
appearance of fine lines<br />
and wrinkles<br />
Powerful, yet gently<br />
resurfaces the skin<br />
Improves skin tone,<br />
texture and smoothness<br />
Improves appearance<br />
of hyperpigmentation,<br />
photodamaged skin,<br />
comedones<br />
and congestion<br />
Provides rapid and<br />
long-term results<br />
Supports collagen<br />
and elastin production<br />
Improves overall health<br />
and integrity of the skin<br />
Well tolerated<br />
Excellent skin prep<br />
for more aggressive<br />
in-office procedures<br />
WHERE TO BUY<br />
Head to www.isclinical.com.au for a list of authorised<br />
clinics and retailers in Australia and New Zealand.<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 45
FEATURE<br />
THE NEW<br />
STONE AGE<br />
WHY CRYSTALS<br />
ARE THE NEW<br />
BEAUTY TREND
CRYSTAL HEALING, LONG THE DOMAIN OF<br />
NEW-AGE PSEUDOSCIENCE, IS HAVING A MOMENT<br />
– AND THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY WANTS IN.<br />
During a pretty grim past<br />
couple of years, our homes<br />
have become the centre of<br />
our lives for most of us. Spending<br />
so much time at home has spurred a<br />
shift in our thinking; we’ve come to<br />
realise the importance of creating a<br />
space that supports our day-to-day<br />
practicalities but also our emotional,<br />
mental and spiritual wellbeing.<br />
It’s also been a time to practice<br />
mindfulness and lavish ourselves with<br />
the self-care we’ve all desperately<br />
needed. It’s no wonder then crystals<br />
are trending right now, for uses<br />
ranging from rejuvenating the aura<br />
of our surroundings to releasing<br />
negative energy in our body to even<br />
energising our skin.<br />
‘Despite a lack of scientific<br />
backing, new-age philosophies<br />
are gaining momentum in an<br />
environment where consumer<br />
interest in emotional and spiritual<br />
self-care is closely linked to physical<br />
and mental health and overall<br />
wellness,’ says Irina Ene, researcher<br />
at market intelligence agency, Mintel.<br />
‘Following centuries of Eastern<br />
tradition, healing crystals and<br />
energy cleansing have become<br />
popular methods of promoting<br />
emotional health. Apart from their<br />
physical exfoliating and illuminating<br />
properties, crystals and gemstones<br />
also benefit from a reputed<br />
vibrational energy that helps the user<br />
to set intentions, address fears and<br />
achieve emotional balance, offering<br />
an opportunity to incorporate them<br />
as part of modern self-care beauty<br />
routines,’ she says.<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 47
FEATURE<br />
BEAUTY BENEFITS OF<br />
CRYSTALS<br />
Crystal beauty regimens were part of many<br />
ancient civilizations, with many cultures<br />
believing crystals descended straight from<br />
the heavens. Cleopatra even wore Lapis<br />
Lazuli stones crushed as an eyeshadow<br />
(now that’s an expensive eyeshadow!). And<br />
now they are increasingly making their way<br />
into our modern beauty routines. Brands<br />
are exploring the spiritual properties of<br />
crystal healing to create beauty products<br />
with aura-awakening benefits – in the form<br />
of tools and gadgets as well as crystalinfused<br />
beauty products.<br />
Gua Sha tools, as well as jade and<br />
rose quartz rollers, have helped propel<br />
the rebirth of today’s mainstream beauty<br />
crystal trend. Gua Sha is a traditional<br />
Chinese massage technique that uses a<br />
smooth-edged tool to scrape the skin. It is<br />
believed to redirect energy flow and relieve<br />
tension in the muscles. The facial massage<br />
is claimed to boost lymphatic drainage<br />
and circulation, and consequently help to<br />
improve skin tone and elasticity, smooth<br />
wrinkles and improve jawline definition.<br />
Crystals are also showing up in skincare<br />
in the form of crystal or gemstone-infused<br />
exfoliators, micellar waters, moisturisers,<br />
cleansers, serums, oils, masks and even<br />
makeup. It’s thought that infusing crystals<br />
such as rose quartz, tourmaline and<br />
amethyst will interplay with our bodies’<br />
energy fields (chakras) for a myriad of<br />
skin-health benefits.<br />
‘They work at an “energetic” level,’<br />
Sharon Hilditch, founder of<br />
crystalclear.co.uk, told Healthline.<br />
‘Everything contains vibrational energy,<br />
from our own bodies to stationary objects,<br />
which are constantly fluctuating at varying<br />
frequencies.’<br />
It’s believed that the potent energy within<br />
these crystals has the power to influence<br />
human energy, both at a physical and<br />
spiritual level.<br />
While there isn’t any scientific evidence,<br />
anecdotal evidence has shown this high<br />
vibration energy has the power to improve<br />
skin woes such as redness, breakouts, fine<br />
lines and lacklustre complexions.<br />
5<br />
CRYSTALS THAT<br />
BELONG IN<br />
YOUR BEAUTY<br />
ROUTINE<br />
Tourmaline<br />
Tourmaline is said to<br />
energise, boost radiance,<br />
detoxify the skin and<br />
help soothe and resolve<br />
blemishes.<br />
Rainbow Moonstone<br />
Known in the healing arts<br />
as an anti-ageing crystal<br />
connected to feminine energy,<br />
moonstone is said to help<br />
improve the look of fine lines<br />
and wrinkles and an ageing<br />
complexion.
Amethyst<br />
Amethyst is more than just a pretty face. It is touted as restoring<br />
balance and bringing equilibrium to ‘hormonal’ skin. It’s said to<br />
reduce oiliness and remove toxins, provide cleansing properties<br />
and raise your vibration to ward off negative energies.<br />
Rose quartz<br />
Commonly used in facial rollers<br />
for enhanced circulation, rose<br />
quartz is now popping up<br />
in skincare formulations. It’s<br />
believed to calm the skin, boost<br />
circulation and restore vibrancy.<br />
On a spiritual level, it’s also<br />
connected to the heart chakra,<br />
so you’ll also be dosing up on<br />
some self-love to help you shine<br />
from the inside out.<br />
FAST<br />
FACTS<br />
A crystal is any solid material<br />
in which the atoms, molecules<br />
or ions are arranged in a highly<br />
ordered repetitive pattern (similar<br />
to the repeated motifs you would<br />
find in a mosaic) that forms a<br />
three-dimensional lattice, or<br />
shape.<br />
Types of crystals include quartz<br />
(rose quartz and amethyst being<br />
the most well-known), diamonds<br />
and even snowflakes.<br />
The process of crystal forming<br />
is called crystallisation. In nature,<br />
crystals often form when liquids<br />
(such as magma, or liquid rock),<br />
cools and hardens.<br />
Interestingly, a gem can be a<br />
crystal whereas a crystal will not<br />
always be a gem.<br />
Jade<br />
Also well known as a skin<br />
roller, beautiful jade is<br />
believed to soothe sensitive,<br />
irritated skin and promote<br />
harmony and good luck.<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 49
FEATURE<br />
CELEB<br />
CRYSTAL<br />
CRUSHES<br />
MIRANDA KERR<br />
Did you know that each KORA Organics<br />
product is infused with rose quartz,<br />
Kerr’s all-time favourite crystal?<br />
‘During the manufacturing process,<br />
all Kora products are filtered and<br />
energised through the rose quartz<br />
crystals, so the vibration of self-love<br />
flows into the products and on to our<br />
customers,’ she told Byrdie.com. ‘I use<br />
crystals every day, and carry them with<br />
me everywhere. Rose quartz carries<br />
soothing energy to encourage love<br />
and acceptance towards both ourselves<br />
and others.’<br />
Credit: Ga Fullner / Shutterstock.com<br />
ADELE<br />
Adele is a big believer in the power of<br />
crystals and how they affect her onstage<br />
performances.<br />
‘I was so nervous about my comeback<br />
show and I was panicking. I was out of<br />
practice and I was busy being a Mum,’<br />
she told The Sun. ‘But it was one of the<br />
best shows I’ve ever done and I had<br />
these bloody crystals in my hand.’<br />
As more ‘proof’ of crystal power, she<br />
lost her crystals before the Grammys,<br />
where technical issues plagued her<br />
now-famous performance. ‘The<br />
Grammys came and I lost my f**king<br />
crystals!’ she explained. ‘It turned<br />
out to be the worst, most disastrous<br />
performance that I have ever done.’
Credit: Tinseltown / Shutterstock.com<br />
Credit: Featureflash Photo Agency / Shutterstock.com<br />
KATY PERRY<br />
Rumours are that Madonna gave Perry<br />
her crystal healer’s number after her<br />
breakup with John Mayer back in 2014<br />
and the singer has never looked back.<br />
‘I don’t stay single for long,’ Perry<br />
told Cosmopolitan. ‘I carry a lot of rose<br />
quartz, which attracts the male. Maybe I<br />
need to calm it down with the amethyst.’<br />
KATE HUDSON<br />
The actress told Marie Claire that she<br />
keeps ‘a crystal bowl filled with rose<br />
quartz heart crystals’ on her nightstand.<br />
Credit: BAKOUNINE / Shutterstock.com<br />
Credit: Kathy Hutchins / Shutterstock.com<br />
VICTORIA BECKHAM<br />
A devout believer in the power of<br />
crystals, Beckham reportedly has<br />
various crystals backstage at her fashion<br />
shows to ward off bad energy and<br />
promote creativity.<br />
‘I currently carry a black obsidian<br />
skull crystal — it’s for protection and<br />
strength,’ she told Vogue. ‘I’m really<br />
into crystals. I’m a real positive thinker.<br />
I believe in creative visualisation — the<br />
glass is always half full. I have no time for<br />
anything negative. I bought crystals for<br />
all my team, so they carry them, too.’<br />
GWYNETH PALTROW<br />
It’s probably not a surprise that this New<br />
Age health ‘guru’ is a fan of crystals.<br />
Her wellness brand Goop even sells a<br />
product that advocates women putting a<br />
jade egg up their lady parts!<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 51
FEATURE<br />
MOST POPULAR<br />
CRYSTALS FOR<br />
MENTAL AND<br />
EMOTIONAL<br />
WELLBEING<br />
Amethyst, opal and ruby are the most<br />
sought-after crystals and gemstones,<br />
according to PsychicWorld.com, which<br />
conducted research on the crystals with<br />
the most global searches on Amazon<br />
in 2021. In joint second place are rose<br />
quartz and obsidian. These healing<br />
crystals are thought to expel negative<br />
energy and rejuvenate your aura.<br />
PsychicWorld.com also collaborated<br />
with crystal healer Inbaal Honigman,<br />
who provides insight into how to<br />
harness the energy of the highestranking<br />
crystals:<br />
Opal<br />
Creativity is at the heart of this<br />
crystal. Opal removes blocks to<br />
your creative self and through<br />
this increases your sense of<br />
self-worth and brings your<br />
deepest truths to the forefront of<br />
your conscious. In moments of<br />
insecurity, take time to touch and<br />
look at your Opal stone bringing<br />
both calmness and confidence<br />
to your aura. Let its creative flair<br />
wash over you and embrace your<br />
witty, friendly and open self.<br />
Amethyst<br />
This powerful crystal helps with all<br />
things spiritual – working to promote<br />
calmness, uplift your emotions and<br />
activate your third eye. Through<br />
simply placing this purple gem on<br />
your forehead, navel or heart, angers<br />
and frustrations will be immediately<br />
released from your body, cleansing<br />
your aura. Use this crystal to your<br />
advantage when you need to keep<br />
calm in challenging situations - take<br />
a little amethyst in your pocket into<br />
a job interview, or place one in your<br />
car before a long drive to promote<br />
mental stability.<br />
Sources: https://www.mintel.com/blog/beauty-market-news/whats-the-deal-with-crystals-in-beauty<br />
https://www.healthline.com/health/beauty-skin-care/gemstone-infused-beauty-products-are-they-worth-it
Ruby<br />
Passion, courage and vitality are<br />
qualities shared by red stones. Rubies<br />
bring an added element of purification,<br />
protection and good physical health. If<br />
you struggle with motivation, wear your<br />
ruby throughout the day to balance<br />
your energies and clarify your goals,<br />
promoting an abundant aura.<br />
WHAT IS<br />
CRYSTAL<br />
HEALING?<br />
Crystal healing uses crystals and<br />
other stones as conduits for<br />
natural healing energy. It is based<br />
on the purported energetic<br />
power of crystals and how they<br />
affect the mind and body, by<br />
absorbing, storing, releasing and<br />
regulating energies.<br />
Holding crystals or placing<br />
them on the body is believed to<br />
ward off negative energy and<br />
encourage physical, emotional<br />
and spiritual healing. It is thought<br />
crystals do this by interacting<br />
with your body’s energy field,<br />
or chakra. While some crystals<br />
are said to alleviate stress,<br />
others purportedly improve<br />
concentration or creativity.<br />
Whether you’re a devout<br />
believer of crystal healing or just<br />
drawn to their beauty and cool<br />
touch, crystals offer a serene selfcare<br />
experience that promotes<br />
mindfulness, reflection and<br />
positive energy. And keeping<br />
good vibes around never hurt<br />
anybody. CBM<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 53
Skincare<br />
SKIN<br />
myths<br />
BUSTED<br />
COULD THE ACTIVE INGREDIENTS IN YOUR<br />
SKINCARE PRODUCT BE DOING MORE DAMAGE<br />
THAN GOOD TO YOUR SKIN? WE CHAT TO<br />
MESOESTETIC PHARMA GROUP PRODUCT<br />
MANAGER MARIE CARMEN VAQUERO TO<br />
SEPARATE FACT FROM FICTION.<br />
Q. Can active acids in<br />
cleansers and exfoliators<br />
cause long-term damage?<br />
Absolutely not. With regard to acids,<br />
understanding the type of acid and<br />
its concentration in a product is key<br />
to understanding the benefits. For<br />
example, the combination of acids in<br />
mesoestetic ultimate micropeel has been<br />
intentionally modulated to work gently<br />
and gradually on the stratum corneum<br />
at a surface level. The aim<br />
is to help facilitate exfoliation and<br />
to visibly smooth and refine skin<br />
texture, enhancing the skin’s natural<br />
renewal process.
Q. Can AHAs such<br />
as glycolic acid thin<br />
the skin?<br />
The use of AHAs in home care<br />
products is highly regulated to ensure<br />
that they do not pose a risk to the skin.<br />
Again, understanding the type of acid<br />
and its concentration in a product is<br />
key to understanding the benefits.<br />
Glycolic acid, within the family of<br />
AHAs, is a molecule with a smaller<br />
structure; therefore, unlike other acids,<br />
it is capable of penetrating into the<br />
deeper layers, making it a powerful and<br />
effective acid.<br />
Its presence in mesoestetic’s<br />
ultimate micropeel is very small.<br />
By combining it with other acids,<br />
such as lactic, malic, tartaric and<br />
lactobionic acid, it can work effectively<br />
to help encourage the renewal and<br />
refining action in the skin without<br />
compromising the barrier function.<br />
Q. Should you use SPF30<br />
or above if using acids<br />
like AHAs and exfoliants<br />
as they increase<br />
sensitivity to UV light?<br />
After using AHAs, you must apply<br />
sunscreen. However, you should<br />
not just be applying sunscreen when<br />
using skincare with AHAs; sun<br />
protection is an essential step in any<br />
daily skincare routine.<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 55
SKIN<br />
Q. How important is<br />
percentage strength when<br />
it comes to AHAs?<br />
AHAs are not found in excessively<br />
high concentrations in home<br />
care products, so as to ensure<br />
skin tolerance.<br />
A higher concentration of AHAs<br />
provides a stronger action. As the<br />
concentration increases in the formula,<br />
it acidifies; that is, the product’s pH<br />
drops, reaching pH values that limit<br />
its use exclusively to medical-aesthetic<br />
professionals. We are referring to<br />
products with a highly acidic pH,<br />
such as chemical peels, products that<br />
should be applied and supervised<br />
by a professional.<br />
Beyond the concentration of each<br />
AHA, in home care products we use<br />
different combinations to ensure an<br />
effective exfoliating action. The main<br />
issue with AHAs or acids in general is<br />
skin tolerance, especially in sensitive<br />
skin. This is why we recommend a<br />
gradual use in this skin type, starting<br />
with lower concentrations and limiting<br />
the frequency of use.<br />
Q. The best exfoliators<br />
are those using granular<br />
exfoliators. Is this true?<br />
If not, what are the main<br />
differences between<br />
physical and chemical<br />
exfoliation?<br />
Exfoliators contain microparticles<br />
that have a physical exfoliating action.<br />
They eliminate dead skin through<br />
mechanical action and the friction<br />
exerted by these particles, but only<br />
at a superficial level. This type of<br />
exfoliation is very effective; however,<br />
it may be more aggressive if not<br />
carried out properly. Intense friction<br />
or a strong massage with<br />
the aim of achieving a better result<br />
can cause micro-cuts in the skin,<br />
damage the pores and even lead to<br />
sensitive skin. Therefore, ‘stronger’<br />
does not mean better. This type of<br />
exfoliation is not recommended for<br />
sensitive skin.<br />
On the other hand, chemical<br />
exfoliation consists of applying acids<br />
or enzymes that dissolve the bonds<br />
between dead skin and tissue. The<br />
main difference between physical and<br />
chemical exfoliation is that chemical<br />
does not require friction. This makes<br />
chemical exfoliators more versatile,<br />
which is why they can be found in<br />
the form of cleansers, toners, serums<br />
and creams.<br />
Depending on the nature and<br />
structure of the acid, they can reach<br />
the deeper layers of the skin, achieving<br />
longer lasting results that go beyond<br />
simply renewing the surface layer.<br />
Although this type of exfoliation<br />
is suitable for all skin types, even<br />
sensitive skin, it is important to<br />
identify your skin type in order to use<br />
the acid type that best suits your needs<br />
and tolerance.<br />
Q. Does exfoliation work<br />
better on certain skin<br />
types over others?<br />
Exfoliation works well on all types of<br />
skin, including sensitive skin. However,<br />
based on your skin type, you should<br />
choose an exfoliator that best suits<br />
your needs and apply it as often as<br />
your skin allows. For example, sensitive<br />
skin is irritated and reddens easily,<br />
so it requires formulas with gentle<br />
exfoliating agents, such as enzyme<br />
exfoliants, which are active substances<br />
that encourage skin renewal, thus<br />
improving the appearance of skin’s<br />
texture and smoothness.<br />
Q. How often and when<br />
should you exfoliate (AM<br />
or PM)?<br />
The frequency of use will depend on<br />
your skin type and individual needs<br />
and preferences, as well as whether you<br />
are using physical or chemical peels.<br />
With physical peels, which are more<br />
aggressive, you should avoid daily use,<br />
as excessive exfoliation could lead to<br />
sensitive skin.<br />
In terms of whether application is<br />
better AM or PM, it depends on your<br />
individual preference and skincare<br />
routine. At night, the skin undergoes<br />
a regeneration process to help recover<br />
from the aggressions experienced<br />
during the day.
Exfoliating at night enhances<br />
this process; therefore, in terms of<br />
renewal, it acts in synergy with this<br />
natural biological process. However,<br />
used in the morning, it helps to<br />
eliminate impurities produced during<br />
the night in order to avoid pore<br />
obstruction, which, for example, may<br />
be preferable in oily skin due to the<br />
overproduction of sebum.<br />
It is important to follow the<br />
recommendations of a professional<br />
in terms of application, frequency of<br />
use and when to apply it based on the<br />
type and condition of your skin at a<br />
specific time.<br />
Q. It’s often said that<br />
micellar water cannot<br />
cope with waterproof<br />
makeup and does<br />
not cleanse the skin<br />
thoroughly enough. Is<br />
this true?<br />
Waterproof makeup is formulated<br />
with a base of oils and waxes and,<br />
therefore, is lipid in nature. It is<br />
commonly known that the best way<br />
to remove oil is with oil itself; hence,<br />
it is effectively removed using balms,<br />
oil-based makeup removers or twophase<br />
solutions, such as mesoestetic’s<br />
micellar biphasic.<br />
Micellar biphasic is a makeup<br />
remover combining an oil phase,<br />
rich in omega 6, and an aqueous<br />
phase that, unlike other biphasic<br />
makeup removers, contains micelles.<br />
The presence of micelles helps in a<br />
more effective cleansing action in the<br />
aqueous phase, eliminating the need<br />
for excessive friction when removing<br />
impurities and makeup. micellar<br />
biphasic is not a micellar water; it<br />
is a more comprehensive product<br />
specifically formulated for eyes and<br />
lips. CBM<br />
PHYSICAL EXFOLIATORS<br />
ELIMINATE DEAD<br />
SKIN THROUGH<br />
MECHANICAL ACTION<br />
(MICROPARTICLES).<br />
CHEMICAL EXFOLIATORS<br />
USE ACIDS OR ENZYMES<br />
THAT DISSOLVE THE<br />
BONDS BETWEEN DEAD<br />
SKIN AND TISSUE.<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 57
GOT MASKNE?<br />
GET HYDRAFACIAL!<br />
SKIN<br />
FIGHT BACK AGAINST<br />
MASKNE AND JOIN<br />
THE #GLOWVOLUTION<br />
WITH HYDRAFACIAL,<br />
THE NEXT-GEN SKIN<br />
REJUVENATION<br />
TREATMENT THAT HAS<br />
AMASSED FANS THE<br />
WORLD OVER.<br />
Just when we’re finally getting a handle on<br />
our skin situation, there’s an additional<br />
assault we have to deal<br />
with: maskne. Wearing a mask can trap dirt<br />
and oil in your pores, seriously aggravating<br />
skin and manifesting in irritation, dryness<br />
and breakouts.<br />
Since wearing a mask is essential during<br />
these times, it’s even more important to<br />
give your skin all the help it needs! Step<br />
in HydraFacial, the ultimate facial that<br />
gently cleanses, cleans out pores and infuses<br />
moisture back to where it’s needed most.<br />
HydraFacial has become one of the most<br />
popular skin treatments for its gentle,<br />
quick and highly effective skin resurfacing<br />
treatment – and now it’s become the facial<br />
of choice to help combat maskne. Performed<br />
somewhere in the world every 15 seconds<br />
and adored by the A-list (Beyoncé, Kate<br />
Winslet and Amy Poehler are just a few<br />
fan-girls), HydraFacial is no ordinary facial.<br />
In just three steps and 30 minutes, it offers<br />
the best skin of your life and a very effective<br />
solution to maskne.
SINCE WEARING A MASK IS ESSENTIAL DURING THESE<br />
TIMES, IT’S EVEN MORE IMPORTANT TO GIVE YOUR SKIN<br />
ALL THE HELP IT NEEDS.<br />
WHAT’S<br />
HYDRAFACIAL<br />
FOR?<br />
Fine lines + Wrinkles<br />
Even Tone + Vibrancy<br />
Skin Texture<br />
Brown Spots<br />
Oily + Congested Skin<br />
Enlarged Pores<br />
Maskne<br />
WHAT EXACTLY IS<br />
HYDRAFACIAL?<br />
HydraFacial is an in-clinic facial cleanse,<br />
skin resurfacing and antioxidant<br />
boost in one quick, easy and pleasant<br />
skincare session.<br />
It uses advanced, patented vortex<br />
technology to deeply cleanse the skin<br />
and effectively deliver ingredients such<br />
as hyaluronic acid, horse chestnut seed<br />
extract, red algae extract, copper, zinc<br />
and magnesium peptides.<br />
HydraFacial also delivers powerful<br />
antioxidants to counteract damage by<br />
free radicals – from pollution, sun and<br />
stress – which can degrade the skin<br />
and accelerate the ageing process, as well<br />
as the irritation and breakouts<br />
from maskne.<br />
Each HydraFacial treatment around<br />
the world uses the same multi-step<br />
treatment process to guarantee<br />
consistent, noticeable skin revitalisation.<br />
The three steps involved work together<br />
to elevate good results on their own to<br />
exceptional results synergistically.<br />
The first step is the Cleanse + Peel,<br />
which involves a deep cleanse and gentle<br />
exfoliation and resurfacing to uncover<br />
a new layer of skin. The second step<br />
is Extract + Hydrate, which includes<br />
a painless vortex extraction device<br />
that removes debris from your pores<br />
while delivering intense moisturisers<br />
that nourish skin. The last step is<br />
Fuse + Protect, which is an infusion<br />
of hyaluronic acid, antioxidants and<br />
vitamins that work to restore, plump and<br />
hydrate the complexion.<br />
Suitable for all skin types, HydraFacial<br />
improves the appearance of maskne,<br />
fine lines, wrinkles, congested and<br />
enlarged pores, oily or acne prone skin,<br />
hyperpigmentation and brown spots.<br />
Each treatment creates an instant ‘wow<br />
factor’ in terms of brighter, smoother<br />
and more radiant skin.<br />
Oh, and did we mention the whole<br />
treatment takes just 30 minutes and<br />
there is no downtime? This is our holy<br />
grail of facials. CBM<br />
WHERE TO GET IT<br />
To find a HydraFacial practitioner in your area,<br />
visit www.likeyourlook.com.au<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 59
SkinMTX ®<br />
SKIN<br />
the targeted<br />
skincare<br />
solution we<br />
all need<br />
SKINMTX, AN AWARD-WINNING<br />
DERMATOLOGICAL-GRADE SKINCARE<br />
BRAND, OFFERS TARGETED<br />
IN-CLINIC AND HOMECARE SKINCARE<br />
SOLUTIONS THAT BOAST UNRIVALLED<br />
POTENCY AND SUPERIOR RESULTS.<br />
Now available in Australia,<br />
SkinMTX is an award-winning,<br />
dermatological-grade skincare<br />
brand that leverages Swiss expertise<br />
for clinically-proven skin treatment<br />
solutions. In addition to an impressive<br />
repertoire of in-clinic professional<br />
treatments, the cult brand offers<br />
targeted at-home solutions for a range<br />
of skin types and needs.<br />
Colour coded by skin concern,<br />
SkinMTX products can easily be mixed<br />
and matched to tailor treatment to your<br />
specific needs.
SkinMTX Anti-Ageing<br />
Activates your skin’s restorative<br />
ability to help preserve a<br />
youthful-looking appearance<br />
The SkinMTX Anti-Ageing range<br />
features the signature active, Acetyl<br />
Hexapeptide-8, which is clinically<br />
proven to minimise the appearance<br />
of fine lines and wrinkles caused<br />
by repeated facial contractions. It<br />
targets the same protein complex<br />
as muscle relaxants, but in a less<br />
invasive and non-permanent way.<br />
The Anti-Ageing range also<br />
features the revolutionary<br />
TeloZyme Complex TM , which is<br />
based on the Nobel Prize-winning<br />
discovery of telomeres (the end<br />
caps of DNA that protect the<br />
chromosomes). Scientists have<br />
discovered that as we grow<br />
older, telomeres at the end of<br />
our chromosomes shrink, which<br />
accelerates the ageing process.<br />
Chromosomal DNA is compromised<br />
when the telomeres wear out, causing<br />
cellular senescence.<br />
SkinMTX’s TeloZyme Complex TM is<br />
clinically proven to target telomeres.<br />
TeloZyme Youth Activator<br />
A multi-faceted serum based on<br />
the Nobel Prize-winning research of<br />
telomere biology. Works at the key<br />
matrix of skin’s youthful appearance<br />
to reinforce and protect skin’s<br />
structural integrity. Helps to visibly<br />
redensify the skin and prevent the<br />
visible signs of ageing.<br />
TeloLift Neck Cream<br />
Formulated exclusively for the specific<br />
needs of the neck and décolleté to<br />
help address visible signs of ageing.<br />
The rich cream creates an invisible<br />
supportive network, helping to regain<br />
definition to the neckline.<br />
Fine Line Eraser Serum<br />
A potent serum formulated<br />
with advanced peptides that<br />
promotes youthful-looking skin.<br />
It acts to markedly reduce the<br />
appearance of fine lines and<br />
wrinkles caused by repeated<br />
contraction of facial muscles.<br />
Ultimate Fine Line Eraser<br />
An advanced cream formulation<br />
that efficaciously helps defend<br />
against the signs of ageing.<br />
Nourishing and moisturising<br />
active ingredients work<br />
synergistically to help reduce<br />
the appearance of expression<br />
lines and wrinkles. Skin is<br />
rejuvenated with increased<br />
suppleness and firmness.<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 61
SkinMTX Brightening<br />
SkinMTX Brightening<br />
SKIN<br />
Helps minimise the appearance of<br />
pigmentation, dark spots and scars<br />
for luminous skin<br />
The Brightening range’s key active is<br />
Alpha-Arbutin, which has been proven<br />
to have a brightening effect on the<br />
skin without the toxicity and irritation<br />
associated with hydroquinone.<br />
Hydroquinone has long been<br />
considered the gold standard for<br />
the treatment of hyperpigmentation.<br />
While clinical studies report excellent<br />
depigmentation responses induced<br />
by 2% hydroquinone, it has also been<br />
shown to cause adverse effects such<br />
as dermatitis, loss of skin elasticity,<br />
increased photosensitivity and postinflammatory<br />
pigmentation.<br />
Alpha-Arbutin has been proven<br />
to have effective results, even when<br />
compared to the chemically-similar<br />
molecules of hydroquinone. In<br />
addition to higher efficacy, it is also<br />
more gentle than hydroquinone.<br />
These characteristics make it the go-to<br />
active for brightening of the<br />
complexion and minimisation<br />
of dark spots on the skin.<br />
Alpha Optimal Brightener<br />
Absorbs instantly into the<br />
skin to help reduce the<br />
appearance of spots and<br />
freckles. Efficiently restores<br />
a brightened complexion in<br />
a shorter time compared to<br />
conventional brightening formulas.<br />
Alpha Illuminator<br />
Imparts translucency and glow to the<br />
complexion with its skin unifying actions.<br />
It boosts moisture levels and helps<br />
strengthen skin’s barrier to reveal a<br />
uniform skin tone, radiance and clarity.<br />
Radiance Cleansing Wash<br />
This non-stripping gel cleanser reveals<br />
skin’s natural radiance while helping<br />
to keep the skin’s hydrolipid film intact<br />
to prevent over-drying and irritation.<br />
Skin is refreshed and prepped for<br />
optimal nutrient absorption from<br />
succeeding skincare steps.<br />
Lumi Cleansing Milk<br />
This light and creamy cleanser<br />
removes impurities, dissolves<br />
makeup and dead skin cells<br />
to leave skin feeling soft and<br />
comfortable, and appearing<br />
brighter and renewed.<br />
SkinMTX Anti-Acne<br />
Purifies skin for clarity and<br />
long-lasting mattness<br />
This range offers a reliable solution to<br />
help treat and control the appearance of<br />
blemishes. High-potency products are<br />
specially formulated to penetrate into<br />
the skin to help achieve visible results.<br />
Together, the three specialist products<br />
help unclog pores and blackheads, gently<br />
cleanse and resurface skin and promote a<br />
shine-free complexion.<br />
Comedone Acti-Clear Lotion<br />
Exfoliating actives help clear pore<br />
blockages, dissolve excessive surface<br />
build-up, prevent recurrence of<br />
blackheads and defend against breakoutcausing<br />
environmental aggressors. Pores<br />
appear visibly refined, skin is smoother<br />
and clarified.<br />
Acti-Pure Cleansing Gel<br />
A gentle yet effective cleanser that<br />
dissolves impurities to leave skin<br />
feeling clean and refreshed. The<br />
gel deeply purifies and minimises<br />
the look of pores without leaving<br />
any tightness or residue. Helps<br />
clear clogged follicles, soothes<br />
inflammation and prevents the<br />
appearance of future breakouts.<br />
Acti-Matte Concentrate<br />
This formulation is carefully<br />
blended to strip away excess oil<br />
while replenishing skin moisture,<br />
preventing visible skin irritations<br />
and promoting a healthy-looking,<br />
balanced complexion. Pores are<br />
blurred and skin texture smoothed<br />
with an energised matte finish.
SkinMTX Dermat<br />
Recommended for post-laser<br />
and post-procedure<br />
The demand for aesthetic medical and<br />
surgical procedures has been steadily<br />
increasing over the past 2 decades and<br />
is forecasted to continue to grow. The<br />
increase in demand is closely followed<br />
by the increase in expectations for<br />
a better outcome with minimal side<br />
effects and shorter recovery time.<br />
SkinMTX’s Dermat Series is specially<br />
formulated to provide essential<br />
post-procedure care to maximise<br />
the treatment outcome, optimise<br />
recovery, minimise risks of infection<br />
and scarring while providing comfort<br />
from tenderness.<br />
Delicate Cleansing Mousse<br />
An ultra-gentle mousse designed<br />
to cleanse delicate post-procedure<br />
skin. Its frictionless, dense foam is<br />
perfect for compromised skin, mildly<br />
yet effectively removing dirt and<br />
impurities while replenishing the skin’s<br />
Natural Moisturising Factor (NMF)<br />
with amino acids and emollients to<br />
preserve moisture balance. A blend<br />
of 7 botanical extracts, vitamins A, B,<br />
C, essential minerals and antioxidants<br />
soothes skin sensitivity and irritation<br />
after harsh treatments. It also helps<br />
maintain skin’s microbial balance to<br />
help optimise the skin recovery process.<br />
Hydrating Mist<br />
A specially formulated mist to help<br />
restore compromised skin after<br />
undergoing harsh laser treatments or<br />
aesthetic procedures. The fine spray<br />
envelopes the skin with a soothing<br />
protective layer, helping calm irritations<br />
and restore comfort to sensitised skin.<br />
Boosts the skin with optimal, lasting<br />
hydration; keeping tightness and<br />
dryness at bay.<br />
Advanced Restorative Serum<br />
An intensive care formulation that<br />
aids in skin recovery after aggressive<br />
aesthetic treatments, helping<br />
compromised skin reclaim comfort and<br />
equilibrium. Its intensively soothing and<br />
moisturising properties help restore<br />
skin balance, providing much needed<br />
calming relief from burning sensations<br />
that typically succeed a laser treatment.<br />
Bio-mimetic peptides help reinstate<br />
skin’s integrity, creating an optimal<br />
environment for skin recovery.<br />
Advanced Reconditioning Cream<br />
This protective cream is specially<br />
formulated to offer aid in the recovery<br />
of the skin barrier after harsh aesthetic<br />
procedures. It helps protect the skin<br />
from excessive dryness, visible redness<br />
and irritations with its potent calming<br />
and reparative ingredients. Designed to<br />
create an optimum environment for skin<br />
to recuperate, the complex of ceramide<br />
and bisabolol provide a protective<br />
“second skin”, shielding the underlying<br />
skin from external aggressors while<br />
it helps the skin rebuild its moisture<br />
barrier. Concurrently, a synergistic blend<br />
of skin restoring actives promotes a<br />
healthy-looking complexion, bringing<br />
forth optimal skin restoration that<br />
results in a renewed, pristine-looking<br />
complexion.<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 63
SkinMTX Special Care<br />
SKIN<br />
A special repertoire of products<br />
to achieve a rigorous regimen for<br />
youthful-looking skin<br />
This intense skin restoration range<br />
features patented key actives that<br />
effectively boost critical aspects of<br />
the skin rejuvenation process. These<br />
include: BioRenew Peptide, which<br />
helps boost skin’s appearance;<br />
PhytoActive+, which magnifies<br />
the reparative powers of stem<br />
cells for superior skin repair and<br />
rejuvenation; ActiMarine Hydrator,<br />
which boosts 3 major skin restorative<br />
functions – the physical barrier,<br />
chemical barrier, and hydra memory<br />
function; and RejuvorA – a unique,<br />
improved form of retinol complex<br />
using a revolutionary encapsulation<br />
system to help overcome the<br />
disadvantages of conventional<br />
retinol, while improving efficacy.<br />
Peptide Serum+<br />
This advanced multi-faceted serum<br />
contains actives that has been<br />
shown to improve skin renewal<br />
by up to 88% in 15 days. Powerful<br />
proprietary rejuvenating actives<br />
and nutrient clusters are delivered<br />
deep into the skin to encourage<br />
equilibrium, helping reinforce skin’s<br />
resilience against environmental<br />
aggressors and returning a youthfullook<br />
to skin. Skin becomes wellhydrated<br />
and complexion glows with<br />
a lustrous shine.<br />
Intense RejuvorA Cream<br />
This hero anti-ageing product<br />
provides impressive skin renewal<br />
and rejuvenative actions – while<br />
helping provide stellar protection<br />
against free radicals and the signs of<br />
ageing - making retinol rejuvenation<br />
more effective to help improve the<br />
appearance of wrinkles, brighten the<br />
skin and retexturise the complexion.<br />
Combining Vitamin C and E, the<br />
active mix works synergistically to<br />
help improve skin vitality, visibly<br />
even out skin tone and fight against<br />
free radicals and the appearance<br />
of photoageing. As skin’s innate<br />
self-renewal system powers up, the<br />
complexion revives with tonicity,<br />
tautness and radiance.
Potent Eye Concentrate<br />
Dramatically promotes the youthful<br />
appearance of eyes with this intensive<br />
eye contour formula specially<br />
designed for skin’s most delicate<br />
areas. The exclusive combination of<br />
advanced actives helps visibly smooth,<br />
firm and tighten skin texture to reduce<br />
the appearance of fine lines, crow’s<br />
feet and puffiness. It deeply infuses<br />
skin with vital moisture, improving skin<br />
tautness around the eye area.<br />
Potent C<br />
This Vitamin C concentrate promotes<br />
an intensive brightening action to<br />
target appearance of discolouration.<br />
The inclusion of efficacious, potent<br />
actives provides targeted action<br />
to help brighten the appearance<br />
of unsightly marks, dark spots and<br />
freckles while building up skin’s<br />
defenses against the appearance of<br />
future pigmentation.<br />
Supreme Eye Brightening Gel<br />
Brightening actives aid in diminishing<br />
the appearance of dark circles to<br />
restore vibrancy and luminosity of the<br />
eye contours. Eye puffiness is visibly<br />
reduced as caffeine helps stimulate<br />
the drainage of excessive fluid.<br />
Mineral-Rich Body Moisturizer<br />
Specially formulated to remineralise<br />
the skin, this mineral-rich hand and<br />
body lotion pampers your skin with<br />
ultimate delights while infusing skin<br />
with essential nutrients from the Dead<br />
Sea. Its luxurious texture ensures<br />
smooth gliding without leaving a<br />
sticky feel on the skin, enveloping the<br />
skin with a veil of velvety softness. The<br />
unsurpassed hydration benefits relieve<br />
dryness, tightness and sensitive<br />
reactions that are caused by skin<br />
dehydration.<br />
3 In 1 Matt Tinted Protector<br />
Naturally shield and nourish skin every<br />
day with this free radical-inhibitor,<br />
vitamin-infused matt sun protection.<br />
Provides sun protection plus<br />
environmental protection. This light<br />
universal-tinted formula helps corrects<br />
uneven skin tones with an immediate<br />
refined finish.<br />
Skin Brightening Day Protector<br />
A refreshing, non-greasy, emulsion<br />
easily absorbed by skin provides<br />
sun protection while enhancing skin<br />
luminosity. A perfect balance of active<br />
ingredients and innovative delivery<br />
mechanisms.<br />
Smart Shield Protector<br />
This light, smooth tinted sun<br />
protection blends seamlessly with<br />
most skin types and colours, imparting<br />
an even skin tone and light coverage<br />
while providing defense against sun’s<br />
damaging rays. CBM<br />
ABOUT SKINMTX<br />
Made in Switzerland and Singapore, SkinMTX ®<br />
is a dermatological-grade skincare brand<br />
formulated for proven, sustainable results. Driving<br />
innovations in aesthetic skincare for over two<br />
decades, the brand has received worldwide<br />
industry recognition for its cutting edge<br />
technology and product efficacy. Most recently,<br />
SkinMTX ® TeloZyme Youth Activator was<br />
awarded the title 2021 Beauty Insider Best in Anti-<br />
Ageing. This multifaceted serum, based on the<br />
Nobel prize-winning discovery of telomeres, has<br />
been specially formulated to target the integrity<br />
of telomeres for younger looking skin.<br />
WHERE TO GET IT<br />
SkinMTX ® is exclusively available in select<br />
clinics and at www.skinmtx.com.au.<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 65
BEAUTY
POST-<br />
SUMMER<br />
HAIR<br />
REVIVAL<br />
TRESSES IN DISTRESS? PREPARE TO REPAIR WITH<br />
THESE HYDRATING HAIR HEROES.<br />
T<br />
he summertime combination of sun, salt and<br />
chlorine all conspire to strip hair of moisture,<br />
leaving it frizzy, dry and dull. Thankfully, hair responds<br />
well to a little TLC and, with the right products,<br />
it’s not too late to restore your crowning glory to its<br />
most beautiful.<br />
evo bradford<br />
pin bristle brush, $50<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au<br />
67
BACK TO BASICS<br />
BEAUTY<br />
Like skincare, a good basic hair care routine<br />
is key to achieving results. Most of your<br />
favourite brands offer ranges targeting<br />
specific concerns and there are many<br />
options for dry post-summer hair.<br />
When it comes to daily care, it’s worth<br />
noting that your hair may not require<br />
washing as often as you think it does. The<br />
general consensus is that shampooing<br />
should only take place every two to three<br />
days and shampoo should be rinsed out<br />
with lukewarm (not hot) water to help avoid<br />
damage and moisture loss.<br />
Prevention is far better than trying to cure<br />
hair damage. By investing in a nourishing<br />
conditioner, you are already well on your<br />
way to preserving the health and lustre<br />
of your hair. Top it off with a weekly hair<br />
repair treatment. Once again, there are<br />
many to choose from depending on your<br />
preferences and needs – everything from<br />
thick, rich hair masks to leave-in spray and<br />
oil formulations.<br />
When using an intensive conditioner or<br />
treatment, wrap hair in a towel to keep heat<br />
in and allow the product to penetrate. Five<br />
minutes should be enough; hair is spongelike<br />
in structure and once it is saturated it<br />
cannot absorb more product no matter how<br />
long you leave it on.
WE LOVE<br />
1. Joico Hydra Splash Trio includes Hydrating Shampoo 300ml, Hydrating Conditioner 250ml and Replenishing Leave-in<br />
100ml, $103.85, 2. Grow Longer Stronger Stimulating Scalp Scrub 140g, $16.99, 3. Joico Humidity Blocker+ Protective<br />
Finishing Spray, $31.95, 4. Arbonne TrueSmooth Rich Lather Shampoo & Conditioner, $48 each, 5. Klorane Cupuacu<br />
Shampoo and Conditioner 200ml, $14.99 each, 6. Oribe Shampoo for Moisture & Control 250ml, $68, and Conditioner<br />
200ml, $72, 7.Wella Professionals Fusion Intense Repair Trio includes Shampoo 250ml, Conditioner 200ml and Mask<br />
150ml, $94, 8. Wella Professionals Invigo Blonde Recharge Color Refreshing Shampoo and Conditioner, Cool Blonde<br />
200ml, $28.95 each, 9. Philip Kingsley Moisture Extreme Shampoo 250ml & Conditioner 200ml, $44 each, 10. Pump<br />
Anti Frizz Shampoo & Conditioner 205ml, $34.95 each.<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 69
HAIR SOS<br />
BEAUTY<br />
If your hair is in dire need, look for intensive specialty hair<br />
products such as an after-sun or post-pool rescue treatment,<br />
which help to smooth damaged cuticles and protect against<br />
split ends, breakage and environmental damage from wind,<br />
sun, chlorine and sea salt. These can be used as a mask after<br />
shampooing (leave it in for five minutes, then rinse out) or a<br />
small amount can be applied daily to the ends of the hair to<br />
protect and smooth.<br />
Be on the lookout for formulations containing keratin,<br />
amino acids, ceramides and shea butter which all work to<br />
calm and nourish severely frazzled frizz and help reverse the<br />
damaging effects of the sun, sea and chlorine. If you’re on a<br />
budget, coconut oil is a great DIY option for nourishing your<br />
tresses without breaking the bank.<br />
WE LOVE<br />
1. Grow Longer Stronger Anti-Breakage Hair Mask 50ml,<br />
$5.99, 2. Hair Rituel by Sisley Restructuring Nourishing<br />
Balm 125g, $160, 3. Klorane Cupuacu Mask 150ml,<br />
$25.99, 4. Hair Rituel by Sisley Protective Hair Fluid<br />
150ml, $120, 5. Hair Rituel by Sisley Regenerating Hair<br />
Care Mask 200ml, $130, 6. Hair Rituel by Sisley La Crème<br />
230 150ml, $125, 7. Kemon Actyva Bellessere Oil, $39.95,<br />
8. Davines Su Hair Mask 150ml, $46.95, 9. Philip Kingsley<br />
Elasticizer 150ml, $72.75
The haircare<br />
habits you<br />
need to break!<br />
Since hair is most fragile when it’s wet, don’t rip<br />
a brush through it after swimming. Spray some<br />
detangler on it, then use a wide-tooth comb to<br />
minimise breakage.<br />
Summer heat practically demands we throw<br />
our hair back, but pulling our hair back too<br />
tightly can cause breakage, particularly if hair<br />
health is already compromised. Aim for loose<br />
buns and ponytails, and let your hair down<br />
before going to sleep at night.<br />
Don’t dive straight into the water without first<br />
wetting your hair with fresh water. Hair is super<br />
porous and absorbent. If you spray water over<br />
your hair (or better yet apply hair oil or a mask)<br />
before entering the pool or ocean, your tresses<br />
won’t soak up such high quantities of drying<br />
and damaging salt and chlorine. CBM<br />
1. Coco & Eve Like a Virgin Hair Masque<br />
$57.90 2. Thanks To Nature Hydrate &<br />
Nourish Masque 350ml, $20, 3. Philip<br />
Kingsley Swimcap Water Resistant Mask 75ml,<br />
$42, 4. Arbonne TrueSmooth Apple Vinegar<br />
Hair Rinse, $37.<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 71
BEAUTY<br />
THE AUSSIE BRANDS<br />
Australia<br />
LIVING IN AUSTRALIA, THERE’S<br />
A LOT TO BE THANKFUL FOR<br />
– INCLUDING AN IMPRESSIVE<br />
LINE-UP OF HOMEGROWN<br />
BEAUTY BRANDS. HERE ARE<br />
SOME OF OUR FAVOURITES<br />
PRODUCTS TO GIVE YOU THAT<br />
UNDENIABLE AUSSIE GLOW.<br />
It’s tough to stay looking good in one<br />
of the world’s harshest climates, but<br />
we Aussies are the pros. With our<br />
diverse soils and climates, Australia<br />
has the luxury of growing its own<br />
fresh produce, with very little need<br />
to import from overseas. So as well<br />
as ensuring the nation eats well, this<br />
also helps Aussie brands lead the<br />
way with sustainable, eco-friendly<br />
beauty products. Quality ingredients,<br />
formulations and manufacturing is<br />
ensuring the Aussie beauty brand<br />
continues to grow both locally and<br />
throughout the world.<br />
72 www.cosbeauty.com.au
KEEPING<br />
beautiful<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 73
24<br />
BEAUTY<br />
AUSSIE BEAUTY BRANDS<br />
YOU SHOULD KNOW ABOUT<br />
ASPECT MINERALS<br />
Established in 2007 in Melbourne,<br />
Aspect Skincare is one of the<br />
leading cosmeceutical skincare<br />
brands in Australia and New<br />
Zealand, offering a range of<br />
medical-grade cosmeceutical<br />
products that deliver highperforming<br />
active ingredients<br />
to help cosmetically correct skin<br />
without irritation. Following on<br />
from their huge success in the<br />
skincare space, the Aussie-made<br />
brand extended its range last<br />
year to include Aspect Minerals,<br />
a comforting, high-performance<br />
makeup line free from parabens,<br />
SLS, mineral oil and vegan friendly.<br />
TRY<br />
Aspect Minerals Powder and<br />
Liquid, $59 each<br />
CONSERVING BEAUTY<br />
Conserving Beauty is Australia’s first<br />
water-responsible beauty brand.<br />
Water is a diminishing resource, with<br />
research indicating that two-thirds of<br />
the population will live in a watershortage<br />
environment by 2035.<br />
Conserving Beauty is on a mission<br />
to reduce the beauty industry’s<br />
water footprint with innovative<br />
products formulated entirely without<br />
water, so that water isn’t wasted<br />
and the products you buy only<br />
contain pure, active ingredients.<br />
Most beauty products are 70-90%<br />
water, with 2-20% active ingredients.<br />
Conserving Beauty is made<br />
with zero water and 100% active<br />
ingredients (no ‘fillers’, preservatives<br />
or fragrances whatsoever).<br />
TRY<br />
Conserving Beauty Conserve You<br />
Face Oil, $55<br />
VELA DAYS<br />
Vela Days is an Australian luxury<br />
hemp-based skincare range. Its<br />
active compound, CannaComplex,<br />
is derived from pharmaceutical<br />
hemp seed extract and THC-free<br />
hemp stem cells, offering antiinflammatory<br />
and active healing<br />
properties for calmer, smoother and<br />
more radiant skin. Sustainability<br />
is also at the core of Vela Days<br />
ensuring its operations and all<br />
suppliers are carbon neutral.<br />
TRY<br />
Vela Days Lipid Complex<br />
CannaComplex Cleansing<br />
Balm 100ml, $89; Oil Infusion<br />
CannaComplex Fortifying Oil Serum<br />
30ml, $110; Active Compound<br />
CannaComplex Multi-Active Facial<br />
Serum 30ml, $102
MINENSSEY<br />
Minenssey skincare is dedicated<br />
to creating potent formulas using<br />
the best of Australia’s botanical<br />
ingredients. With an emphasis<br />
on cultivating and maintaining<br />
healthy skin, using an only-theessentials<br />
approach, their formulas<br />
are concentrated with the right<br />
dosage of evidence-based active<br />
ingredients – what they leave out is<br />
just as important as what they put in.<br />
TRY<br />
Minenssey Treatment Mask,<br />
5 Sheets, $50<br />
BONDI SANDS<br />
Australian owned and made (and<br />
globally loved), Bondi Sands now<br />
has its own skincare line in addition<br />
to its best-selling self-tanning<br />
products. High-quality formulas work<br />
to help give you glowing, healthy<br />
skin, hydrating and nourishing with<br />
each application. These are the new<br />
skin staples for any skin junkie.<br />
TRY<br />
Bondi Sands Fresh’n Up Nourishing<br />
Gel Cleanser 150ml, $14.95; Gold’n<br />
Hour Vitamin C Serum 30ml, $17.95;<br />
Daydream Whipped Moisturiser<br />
50ml, $16.95<br />
DAVROE<br />
Davroe’s philosophy is simple: to<br />
create an honest and pure range<br />
of hair care products for everyone.<br />
Owner Mary Centofanti and her<br />
team make every effort to ensure<br />
their products are natural, vegan,<br />
sensitive to the environment and<br />
only ever use ingredients of the<br />
highest quality. They’re also proudly<br />
100% Australian made and owned<br />
– and will seriously improve the<br />
condition of your hair.<br />
TRY<br />
Davroe Argon Oil Instant Treatment,<br />
$25.95<br />
LOVEBYT<br />
Meet your new oral hygiene crush.<br />
LOVEBYT is a 100% natural, vegan<br />
and fluoride-free toothpaste made<br />
in Australia using a premium blend<br />
of botanical ingredients andno nasty<br />
chemicals. Backed by dentists, this<br />
is *the* toxin-free oral health care<br />
brand we’ve needed.<br />
TRY<br />
LOVBYT Mini Charcoal & Mint<br />
Toothpaste, $8.95<br />
POD ORGANICS<br />
Pod Organics offers organic, vegan,<br />
sustainable, ethically sourced<br />
skincare products for the whole<br />
family, inspired by Australian native<br />
bushlands. Winner of three Organic<br />
Beauty Awards for Best Clean<br />
Products of 2021, this is a beautiful<br />
collection of natural skincare and<br />
products for the home.<br />
TRY<br />
Pod Organics All Over Nurturing<br />
Balm, $13.95<br />
VANESSA MEGAN<br />
Vanessa Megan products are<br />
handmade in Australia and are<br />
certified Cruelty Free. The natural<br />
range encompasses skincare,<br />
body care and fragrance with<br />
highly effective botanicals and<br />
results-driven formulations. It’s also<br />
the exclusive skincare choice for<br />
Gwinganna Lifestyle Retreat, winner<br />
of the World’s Best Eco Spa of 2020.<br />
TRY<br />
Vanessa Megan Cryō Rosé Ice<br />
Cube Treatment, $34.95<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 75
BEAUTY<br />
TROPICOLOGY<br />
Tropicology is one of the pioneers<br />
of natural, sustainable, organic,<br />
cruelty-free skincare. Its products are<br />
the fruits, quite literally, of Tropical<br />
Fruit World, a family-run biologically<br />
sustainable plantation and tourist<br />
attraction in the hinterland of<br />
Kingscliff in NSW. Tropicology<br />
skincare is inspired by the healing<br />
and restorative properties of the<br />
fruits and botanicals nurtured and<br />
harvested on the farm, particularly<br />
the avocado tree, of which they have<br />
18 different varieties. Antioxidantrich<br />
organic avocado oil is used in<br />
all Tropicology products, further<br />
complemented by active botanicals<br />
and Australian native extracts.<br />
TRY<br />
Tropicology Avocado Lip Balm,<br />
$19.95<br />
THE SECRET SKINCARE<br />
The Secret is Australia’s first<br />
prescription-only skincare range<br />
and is founded by Perth-based<br />
cosmetic doctors Dr Clara Hurst<br />
and Dr Deb Cohen-Jones. Carefully<br />
researched and formulated with<br />
medical-strength ingredients such<br />
as tretinoin and hydroquinone, The<br />
Secret range is custom-made for<br />
each patient to treat their specific<br />
skin concerns. Each formulation<br />
contains a unique combination of<br />
prescription-strength ingredients<br />
in a patented base which provides<br />
the optimal carriage of these<br />
compounds. The focus is on<br />
increasing skin clarity, treating fine<br />
lines and skin laxity, eliminating<br />
pigmentation and breakouts and<br />
achieving that coveted Secret glow.<br />
TRY<br />
The Secret The Serum, $130<br />
INVISIBLE ZINC<br />
Invisibe Zinc is to sunscreen what<br />
Vegemite is to toast. This is suncare<br />
made in Australia for the toughest of<br />
Australian climates. Unlike chemical<br />
sunscreens that absorb the sun’s<br />
UV rays, Invisible Zinc uses naturally<br />
sourced Zinc Oxide to create a<br />
protective shield on the surface of<br />
your skin, reflecting both UVA and<br />
UVB rays.<br />
SUNBUTTER<br />
Our oceans are under threat from<br />
pollution, and many sunscreens<br />
are contributing to the problem.<br />
Whilst providing your skin with<br />
UV protection, widely accepted<br />
sunscreen chemicals are also<br />
killing corals, causing toxic build-up<br />
in marine animal tissues and<br />
putting a strain on our ocean’s<br />
ecosystems. SunButter was founded<br />
by two marine biologists with a<br />
dedication to create the most<br />
effective, environmentally gentle<br />
and reef-safe Sunscreen formula on<br />
the market, packaged in reusable<br />
and recyclable tins. This is a new<br />
generation of suncare that is skin<br />
and earth conscious.<br />
TRY<br />
SunButter SPF 50 Water Resistant<br />
Reef Safe Sunscreen, $29.95<br />
TRY<br />
Invisible Zinc Sheer Defence, $34
WE ARE FEEL GOOD INC.<br />
Hailed as the sunscreen you can feel<br />
good about, this Australian owned<br />
and made suncare range is perfectly<br />
suited to the adventure-driven<br />
Aussie lifestyle. We Are Feel Good<br />
Inc products are tested to hold up<br />
in the toughest of climates, as well<br />
as being paraben, oxybenzone,<br />
octinoxate and PABA free. The<br />
founders (including a doctor,<br />
builder and pro surfer) wanted to<br />
create a product that nourished<br />
and supported the skin without<br />
compromising sun protection<br />
capabilities, so they added skinloving<br />
ingredients like Vitamin E and<br />
aloe vera to sweeten the deal.<br />
SKINSTITUT<br />
We’ve been using this Aussie<br />
brand for years and will happily<br />
sing its praises, namely that it’s<br />
affordable and delivers visible<br />
change within the skin. Skinstitut<br />
products use high-performance<br />
active ingredients, advanced<br />
delivery systems, and stable,<br />
skin-syncing formulations which<br />
are clean, cruelty-free, and vegan,<br />
and don’t use unnecessary filler<br />
ingredients or excessive packaging.<br />
DR ROEBUCK’S<br />
Aussie-made Dr Roebuck’s is taking<br />
the world by storm with its clean,<br />
pared-down approach to skincare.<br />
The products contain only pure<br />
botanicals and skin-safe ingredients<br />
that have been ethically and<br />
sustainably sourced. No fillers, no<br />
nasties, no cruelty, no worries!<br />
TRY TRY TRY<br />
We Are Feel Good Inc. After Sun<br />
Cooling Lotion, $19.95<br />
Skinstitut Expert Refine AHA<br />
Glycolic Toner, $59<br />
Dr Roebuck’s Byron 2-in-1 Mask +<br />
Scrub, $40<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 77
BEAUTY<br />
SUNESCAPES<br />
Born in Bondi, Sunescape is an<br />
award-winning Australian-made and<br />
owned sunless tanning range that<br />
delivers natural-looking colour with a<br />
delicious tropical scent. Formulated<br />
without harmful ingredients,<br />
Sunescape’s products use certified<br />
natural DHA and are fortified with<br />
vitamins, antioxidants and plant<br />
oils that nourish the skin, and<br />
anti-ageing, hydrating and firming<br />
ingredients that leave skin smooth<br />
and replenished. All Sunescape<br />
products are free from parabens,<br />
petrochemicals and formaldehyde,<br />
are proudly vegan and cruelty free.<br />
We love it because it gives skin a<br />
gorgeous colour, without dryness,<br />
streaking, patchiness or the dreaded<br />
orange undertone.<br />
TRY<br />
Sunescape Instant Self-Tan Mousse<br />
250ml, $44.95; Hydrating Body<br />
Butter, $29.95<br />
EWE CARE<br />
Ewe Care is Australia’s first sheep<br />
milk natural skincare range that<br />
combines the benefits of sheep milk<br />
with uniquely Tasmanian ingredients.<br />
A high natural fat content makes<br />
sheep milk a wonderfully nourishing<br />
moisturiser that not only helps<br />
reduce wrinkles and fine lines but<br />
also provides essential antioxidants<br />
via vitamins like A, C, D and E, as<br />
well as AHA. Its anti-inflammatory<br />
and anti-microbial properties<br />
also help to reduce redness and<br />
breakouts and make it ideal for use<br />
on sensitive skin. Every aspect of<br />
Ewe Care’s packaging – from its<br />
cream sachets, to the box they arrive<br />
in – is compostable.<br />
TRY<br />
Ewe Day Cream 60ml + Raku<br />
Ceramic Vessel, $165; Night Cream<br />
60ml + Raku Ceramic Vessel, $180<br />
ULTRADERM<br />
Ultraderm is an Australian<br />
cosmeceutical skincare company<br />
founded in 2009 which uses<br />
medical-grade ingredients to give<br />
proven results for targeted skin<br />
problems. The range – for both<br />
at-home and in-clinic care – offers<br />
a complete skincare protocol<br />
suitable for conditions like<br />
rosacea, acne, age prevention and<br />
correction, pigmentation, stretch<br />
marks and scarring.<br />
TRY<br />
Ultraderm Daily Protector Tinted<br />
Base + Moisturiser SPF 30, $62<br />
AESTHETICS RX<br />
Aesthetics Rx is an Australian<br />
cosmeceutical range of advanced<br />
formulations using skin-correcting<br />
anti-ageing ingredients based<br />
on plant cell culture and biotechnology.<br />
Their complex<br />
blends of high-dose actives are<br />
Australian made, vegan, cruelty<br />
and paraben-free.<br />
TRY<br />
Aesthetics Rx B Serum, $109
QED SKINCARE<br />
QED, founded by an Aussie<br />
pharmacist, was specifically<br />
formulated to target the needs<br />
of sensitive skin, be it eczema,<br />
psoriasis or acne-prone. Each and<br />
every product developed has been<br />
dermatologically tested on humans,<br />
trialled and then re-tested, and is<br />
fully backed by science – no fluff,<br />
just a simple, scientific approach<br />
to skincare. At its core, natural<br />
ingredients are married with nontoxic<br />
alternatives to create safe,<br />
high-performance products free of<br />
parabens, mineral oils, sulphates<br />
and formaldehyde. Plus, it’s 100%<br />
Australian designed, formulated<br />
and made.<br />
TRY<br />
QED Skincare The Body Cream<br />
250g, $39; Balancing Facial Mist,<br />
Neroli + Bergamot 125ml, $32<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 79
BEAUTY<br />
JURLIQUE<br />
A true Aussie success story, Jurlique<br />
was founded in 1985, and has been<br />
a global leader in natural skincare<br />
ever since. Jurlique offers natural<br />
skincare and beauty products that<br />
are powered by botanicals grown<br />
for decades on their organic farm<br />
in South Australia’s Adelaide<br />
Hills using a unique Bio-Intrinsic<br />
extraction method. All botanicals are<br />
hand planted and hand picked and<br />
are free from synthetic pesticides<br />
and fertilisers. By combining these<br />
potent natural ingredients with<br />
advanced skincare science, Jurlique<br />
has grown to be a powerhouse in<br />
Australia and around the world.<br />
TRY<br />
Jurlique Nutri-Define Supreme Eye<br />
Contour Balm 15ml, $105; Rose<br />
Hand Cream 125ml, $62<br />
LUCAS’ PAWPAW<br />
OINTMENT<br />
Ah, this Australian staple with its<br />
distinctive red packaging is the<br />
OG multi-tasking beauty product!<br />
Made in Australia from pure<br />
papaws, the powerhouse ointment<br />
has antibacterial and antimicrobial<br />
properties – and has an infinite<br />
amount of beauty uses, including lip<br />
balm, dry skin and split end remedy,<br />
relief from skin irritation or eczema,<br />
cuticle/nail moisturiser, and even<br />
as a skin highlighter! The company<br />
still operates in Brisbane where the<br />
ointment continues to be produced.<br />
You might be amazed to know that<br />
the formula for the famous ointment<br />
is still the same proven remedy<br />
today as when it was created more<br />
than 100 years ago.<br />
DR NAOMI SKIN<br />
You may know cosmetic physician<br />
Dr Naomi McCullum as an Instagram<br />
sensation with a wicked penchant<br />
for a good meme, and now she has<br />
her very own skincare range that<br />
is quickly reaching cult status. The<br />
clever, hard-working range is science<br />
based, vegan and cruelty-free using<br />
high tech ingredients from both<br />
nature and the lab. It’s a complete<br />
skincare program – from cleansers<br />
and corrective serums to cutting<br />
edge beauty tools and devices –<br />
that will have you on your way to<br />
selfie-ready skin around the clock.<br />
TRY<br />
Dr Naomi Skin Catfish 10ml, $89<br />
TRY<br />
Lucas’ Papaw Ointment 75g, $14.75<br />
80 www.cosbeauty.com.au
&<br />
Radiate<br />
beauty<br />
confidence<br />
Using the latest technologies, our team of experts<br />
is committed to help you achieve natural-looking<br />
results in a relaxed and friendly setting.<br />
Come in and experience the Skin Renu difference.<br />
Our comprehensive treatment menu includes:<br />
world-class wrinkle reduction and<br />
lip enhancement<br />
laser skin rejuvenation<br />
CoolSculpting non-surgical fat reduction<br />
Thermage non-surgical face lifting<br />
medical peels<br />
clinic-only premium skincare<br />
Call us to book a complimentary consultation<br />
02 9555 9506<br />
www.skinrenu.com.au<br />
16B Beattie St, Balmain, Sydney
SKIN<br />
Cool, calm<br />
and collected<br />
IS YOUR SKIN SENDING OUT AN SOS? WE HAVE<br />
THE PRODUCTS TO HELP YOU SHIELD AND REPAIR<br />
YOUR SKIN FROM THE SINS OF SUMMER.<br />
W<br />
hile most of us crave<br />
the summer sun, UV<br />
exposure can leave your<br />
skin dry, dehydrated and damaged.<br />
With each Australian summer, in one<br />
of the harshest climates on Earth,<br />
skin damage accumulates, with every<br />
bit of sun exposure contributing to<br />
the way your face ages.<br />
Over time, your skin loses its<br />
elasticity. It can develop unsightly<br />
brown spots, and previously<br />
hidden blood vessels can become<br />
visible to the naked eye. Lines and<br />
wrinkles emerge as your formerly<br />
vibrant complexion starts to appear<br />
dehydrated and dull.<br />
It’s been said 80 percent of facial<br />
ageing is caused by the sun, so<br />
we need to prevent and repair. Of<br />
course, sunscreen is numero uno<br />
in any skincare regimen, but active<br />
ingredients that work on a cellular<br />
level to help undo sun damage and<br />
protect against further premature<br />
ageing. Look for antioxidants<br />
like Vitamins A, C, E and B3<br />
(niacinamide) and hyaluronic acid.<br />
Vitamin A (retinol), in particular, is<br />
a non-negotiable, as far we we’re<br />
concerned. It has been proven<br />
to soften lines, rejuvenate skin<br />
and stimulate skin cells to make<br />
healthy collagen and boost natural<br />
moisturising factors.<br />
Hyaluronic acid (HA) is also an<br />
essential weapon in the fight against<br />
ageing, dry skin. It is a natural<br />
component of the skin that seals<br />
in moisture and helps keep skin<br />
hydrated and plump – it attracts<br />
up to 1,000 times its own weight in<br />
water. As skin is damaged by the sun,<br />
HA decreases and your skin loses the<br />
ability to retain water. Concentrated<br />
HA helps restore this lost volume.<br />
Remember, what you use on<br />
your skin on a daily basis will pay<br />
dividends further down the track.<br />
Quality skincare is one of the best<br />
investments you can make to ageproof<br />
your skin in the long run.<br />
82 www.cosbeauty.com.au
www.cosbeauty.com.au 83
1.<br />
the basics<br />
2.<br />
3.<br />
SKIN<br />
5.<br />
6.<br />
4.<br />
7.<br />
8.<br />
9.<br />
11. 12.<br />
10.<br />
13.<br />
14. 15.<br />
1. Go Bare Facial Cleansing Brush, $89, 2. Dr Naomi<br />
Skin Clean Freak, $149, 3. Arbonne Bio-Hydria Gel<br />
Cleanser, $35, 4. Priori R-Spinasome The Ultimate<br />
Night Crème 50ml, $300, 5. Sisley Phyto-Blanc Le<br />
Soin Brightening Protective Moisturiser 40ml, $420,<br />
6. mesoestetic energy C Intensive Cream 50ml,<br />
$159, 7. Enbacci microdermabrasion exfoliating<br />
scrub with eco-friendly alumina beads, $45, 8. Dr<br />
Naomi Skin Milk It 120ml, $59, 9. Dr Naomi Skin<br />
Walk Of Shine 120ml, $59, 10. Hydropeptide Power<br />
Luxe Hydra-Rich Infusion Cream $215, 11. Jurlique<br />
Nourishing Cleansing Oil 200ml, $44, 12. Jurlique<br />
Revitalising Cleansing Gel 200ml, $44, 13. Priori<br />
R-Spinasome The Ultimate Day Crème 50ml, $300,<br />
14. IT Cosmetics Confidence In A Cream 60ml, $75,<br />
15. Kiehl’s Ultra Facial Cream 50ml, $51
essential<br />
protection<br />
1. Skin MTX 3 in 1 Matt<br />
Tinted Protector 30ml, $70,<br />
2. Aspect Sun Physical Sun<br />
Protection SPF 50+ Sunscreen<br />
Cream 75g, $59, 3. asap<br />
SPF50+ hydrating defence<br />
100ml, $75, 4. mesoestetic<br />
mesoprotech sun stick, $49.80,<br />
5. Avéne Aqua Fluid SPF50+<br />
40ml, $27.99, 6. O Cosmedics<br />
Mineral Pro SPF 30+, $49<br />
4.<br />
5.<br />
1.<br />
2.<br />
3.<br />
6.<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 85
2.<br />
3.<br />
4.<br />
5.<br />
6.<br />
7.<br />
8.<br />
SKIN<br />
1.<br />
anti-ageing<br />
and<br />
ightening ightening<br />
1. Arbonne Rescue & Renew Detox Gelée, $80, 2. Cemoy Hydra Ampoule Face Mask, $29.95, 3. BOOST<br />
LAB Vitamin C Brightening Serum, $29.95, 4. BOOST LAB 2D Hyaluronic Hydro Boost, $29.95, 5. Sisley<br />
Botanical D-Tox 30ml, $300, 6. Arbonne Intelligence Nourishing Facial Oil, $110, 7. asap super B complex<br />
30ml, $105, 8. asap super C complex 30ml, $105, 9. Dr Naomi Skin LED It Glow at-home light therapy<br />
mask, $595, 10. Aspect Super PD Complex 30ml, $135, 11. Image Skincare Illuma Intense Brightening<br />
Serum, $92.50, 12. Skin MTX Alpha Optimal Brightener 30ml, $112, 13. QED Skincare Wrinkle Rewind<br />
Repair Serum 30ml, $92, 14. Ella Baché Sensibeautics Intensive Recovery Serum, $111, 15. No7 Radiance+<br />
15% Vitamin C Serum, $34.99, 16. Biologi Bqk Radiance Serum Duo, $138, 17. Dr. LeWinn’s Intensive<br />
Action Caviar Eye Serum 15ml, $79.95, 18. Kiehl’s Calendula Serum-Infused Water Cream 50ml, $69, 19.<br />
No7 HydraLuminous Water Concentrate 30ml, $29.99, 20. Medik8 Oxy-R Peptides 2 x 10ml, $124, 21.<br />
Sisley Velvet Sleeping Mask 60ml, $170, 22. QED Skincare Wrinkle Rewind Face Cream, $66, 23. Santa<br />
Maria Novella Vitamin F Cream 50ml, $137, 24. asap Liquid Platinum 130ml, $65, 25. Feniu Tongan<br />
Coconut Oil, $79, 26. Image Skincare Vital C Hydrating Waterburst, $83, 27. O Cosmedics O-Biome<br />
Hydrating & Setting Spray, $55, 28. Sisley Hydra-Flash 60ml, $260, 29. Susanne Kaufmann Hyaluron Serum<br />
Moisturising, $223, 30. Susanne Kaufmann Nutrient Concentrate Skin Smoothing Serum, $216,<br />
31. Minenssey Australian Clay Mask Revival Set, $79<br />
23.<br />
86 www.cosbeauty.com.au
9.<br />
10. 11.<br />
12.<br />
15.<br />
13. 14.<br />
16.<br />
17.<br />
18.<br />
19.<br />
20.<br />
21.<br />
22.<br />
29.<br />
30.<br />
24.<br />
25.<br />
26.<br />
27.<br />
28.<br />
31.<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 87
SKIN<br />
specialty<br />
products f f<br />
pigmentation<br />
1.<br />
2.<br />
3.<br />
1. Sisleÿa L’Integral Anti-Age Radiance<br />
Anti-Dark Spot Serum 30ml, $630, 2.<br />
CALECIM Professional Professional<br />
Pigment Solution, $269, 3. mesoestetic<br />
mesoprotech melan 130 pigment control<br />
50ml, $79.80
post-sun relief<br />
1.<br />
2.<br />
3.<br />
4.<br />
1. Pure Fiji Aftersun Soothing Gel, $29.95,<br />
2. Santa Maria Novella Aloe Gel For<br />
Face & Body 250ml, $60, 3. Santa Maria<br />
Novella After Sun Cream 150ml, $55, 4.<br />
Davines SU Aftersun, $49.95, 5. Arbonne<br />
SuperCalm Soothing Hydrator, $65<br />
hydrating<br />
body products<br />
5.<br />
1. Medik8 Smooth Body Exfoliating Kit: includes Smooth Body<br />
Scrub, Smooth Body Mitt and Smooth Body Lotion, $99, 2.<br />
SkinMTX Mineral Rich Body Moisturizer 100ml, $46, 3. Sisley<br />
Le Sculpteur 200ml, $290, 4. Ciaté London Dewy Stix Body<br />
Bronzing, Transparent, $37, 5. Kiehl’s Crème de Corps 125ml $36,<br />
6. Jurlique Exclusive Edition Rose Body Oil 200ml, $88, 7. PMD<br />
Clean Body in Berry, $239<br />
4.<br />
1.<br />
3.<br />
6.<br />
2.<br />
5.<br />
7.<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 89
FEATURE<br />
Beauty<br />
&<br />
beyond<br />
MEET THE LADY BOSSES BEHIND TWO AUSTRALIAN SUCCESS STORIES:<br />
COLOUR COSMETICS COLLECTION, VELVET CONCEPTS, AND SERIOUS<br />
SKINCARE LINE, THE DERMAL DIARY. WORDS BY CLEO GLYDE.<br />
CLEO GLYDE<br />
The beauty industry –<br />
encompassing skincare,<br />
cosmetics, hair care, fragrances<br />
and personal care – is undoubtedly a<br />
huge part of our lives. But only very<br />
few take the giant leap of creating their<br />
own brand and manufacturing new<br />
products for other women and men to<br />
benefit from and enjoy. We chat with<br />
Cassandra Nichterlein from Velvet<br />
Concepts and Isabella Loneragan<br />
from The Dermal Diary about their<br />
entrepreneurial journeys.
Cassandra<br />
Nichterlein<br />
FOUNDER, VELVET CONCEPTS<br />
You have been in beauty all your working life. How<br />
did you start out?<br />
When I was 21, I got a job at a really cool, trendy PR<br />
agency. I was very lucky to be looking after great clients<br />
such as Aveda and Becca Cosmetics, learning so much<br />
at a young age and meeting the amazing creators<br />
of these prestigious companies. I fell in love with the<br />
industry straight away.<br />
How did you take the next step of founding your<br />
own Beauty PR agency and becoming the boss?<br />
After working for other agencies for a decade, I<br />
developed chronic fatigue and burnout from running<br />
around too much and surviving on 10 coffees a day.<br />
I decided I need to run my own schedule. I was also<br />
inspired by the really great international brands that<br />
weren’t available here locally at the time, so I decided<br />
to import them and do all the marketing. I started<br />
Style Patisserie with some really special brands, such as<br />
Butter London nail polish, and they blew up and sold<br />
well from the start.<br />
Your favourite international brands became your<br />
clients. When did you decide to join in and become<br />
a brand creator yourself?<br />
I started my own line, Velvet Concepts, when it became<br />
apparent that big conglomerates were snapping up so<br />
many great new brands. I love exciting, up-and-coming<br />
companies with passionate founders, great backstories<br />
and a point of difference. I had developed a great<br />
connection with local Australian retailers who knew<br />
how to love and nurture these little brands and<br />
grow them.<br />
After a decade running my own PR firm, I saw global<br />
companies gobble up these small, cool brands then<br />
dial down what made them so special in the first<br />
place. They would also remove them from boutique,<br />
independent beauty stores to sell them exclusively<br />
through massive commercial outlets instead, which was<br />
heartbreaking for everyone.<br />
Seeing as boutique retailers were getting fewer and<br />
fewer options of stylish, beautiful products that aren’t<br />
available in mass retailers, I thought up my experiment:<br />
perhaps I could create something that their loyal<br />
beauty fans would love?<br />
Did you research what kind of products those<br />
would be or just do what appealed the most?<br />
Heart or head?<br />
Both! I’ve always adored the glamour of colour and<br />
cosmetics. I used to put YSL ads under protective<br />
contact sheets on all my exercise books in Year 8. I<br />
also knew that small retailers have a more intimate<br />
knowledge of their customers and could give me<br />
constant insider knowledge that I could listen to<br />
and respond to their feedback quite quickly. Big<br />
corporates, on the hand, can take years to make<br />
a product.<br />
Now the fun part. How did you design your Velvet<br />
Concepts collection from scratch?<br />
Right from the get-go, I wanted to make the line<br />
super luxe and minimal, which is what I like to buy. As<br />
a customer, I’m not into overwhelming options at a<br />
beauty counter. I just want direction: “this is the best<br />
foundation”, “this is the blackest eyeliner you asked<br />
for”, etc. I don’t mind if there are a couple of choices,<br />
but I don’t want 25. Also, as much as I love a green,<br />
sparkly eyeliner, that’s not what I wear every day. My<br />
mission was to make neutrals and staples; classic but<br />
never boring. That was always my vision.<br />
Velvet Concepts stands apart with its signature<br />
lavender grey. What was it like to take the journey<br />
from dream to packaged reality?<br />
I was adamant that the packaging had to be a custom<br />
colour. The majority of beauty packaging is black<br />
and white, which I soon learned is cheaper because<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 91
stock packaging is easier to come<br />
by. I find all the really great brands<br />
are associated with a distinctive<br />
colour though. I’ve always loved the<br />
combination of gold and grey. If I<br />
had my way, everything in my<br />
house and wardrobe would be<br />
that colour combo!<br />
FEATURE<br />
What was the biggest challenge in<br />
manufacturing?<br />
Well, I knew that if I was going to<br />
do this, I wanted to work with the<br />
best possible people. And in the<br />
beauty world, I believe Italians are<br />
the best, full stop. However, I had to<br />
learn to work on their schedule and<br />
deal with the language and cultural<br />
barriers. I was frustrated and did not<br />
take it very well. Looking back on the<br />
delays, I think, “Well, what else did<br />
you expect?”<br />
Manufacturing requires endless<br />
patience, so you have to factor in a<br />
lot of time to get it right. The path<br />
is not linear, but up and down. You<br />
will save yourself a lot of unnecessary<br />
frustration if you understand that<br />
that’s what you’re signing up for.<br />
What qualities does an entrepreneur need to have<br />
in the beauty game?<br />
A thick skin. You can’t be afraid to keep pushing,<br />
refining, sending samples back or going back to the<br />
drawing board. Any entrepreneur will tell you that if<br />
you want something done your way, you have to stick<br />
with it. Entrepreneurship isn’t for everyone; you have<br />
to be patient, dog-minded and tactful all at once.<br />
Building a brand is really about building relationships,<br />
which will have their ups and downs. It requires a longterm<br />
view.<br />
Did lockdown have a negative or positive effect?<br />
Most of our product was already shipped over from<br />
Italy, so it was quite good. Some things sell more than<br />
others in lockdown – with masks, lip colour isn’t as much<br />
a priority as eyes. We will see it all come back. Before<br />
the pandemic a lot of our customers would ordinarily<br />
just buy something, but when everyone had more time<br />
they started asking more questions. We could dedicate<br />
time to chat with customers so it gave us a lovely<br />
dynamic; we had FaceTime chats to match foundations!<br />
Velvet Concepts<br />
Luxe Lip Gloss in<br />
Berry and Créme
How important is human interaction in an<br />
increasingly online world?<br />
With makeup and cosmetics – any business really –<br />
customers will trust you when you give personalised<br />
service. People know that they are dealing with an<br />
automated program when they add to cart and<br />
they accept that, but personalisation optimises the<br />
experience. People assume we will just have a bot,<br />
so when they get a real person interaction they are<br />
really chuffed.<br />
Who is your customer?<br />
Someone with a natural, pared-down aesthetic who<br />
wants curated, luxurious products. Essentially I made<br />
the products with the ingredients and texture that I<br />
wanted to use.<br />
Velvet Concepts Eye<br />
Gems Eyeshadow Stick In<br />
Rose Quartz and Topaz<br />
How did you decide on your price point?<br />
The reality is that product manufacture is like cooking:<br />
the better the ingredients, the more it costs. There are<br />
so many fun, cheaper products out there; there was no<br />
need for any more of that. There are also really, really<br />
expensive French designer products available. There<br />
wasn’t anything that was really luxe and Australian. We<br />
do have our own aesthetic and luxurious twist that is<br />
unique to Australia. The idea was, can we export that?<br />
That beautiful, pared down Aussie girl. We are no-fuss,<br />
generally speaking, glamorous in our own way but not<br />
uber put-together or perfect. There is a little bit of<br />
undoneness about us, which I embrace.<br />
Is it still exciting or just hard work?<br />
I still get a thrill when orders come in. People<br />
discover us through social media, beauty retailers and<br />
independent shops. During lockdown, customers had<br />
to go online to get access to more products.<br />
Velvet Concepts Crème Chic Blush in Rosé<br />
www.velvetconcepts.com<br />
Giving birth to a new brand and three gorgeous<br />
young children is no mean feat. Does working for<br />
yourself make it work?<br />
I had no kids when I started, but I was pregnant when I<br />
ned o and made m fir amen. I rememer<br />
thinking, this better bloody work because I am having<br />
a baby!<br />
I’m way more fussy about how I spend my time since<br />
I had Alessia, Ezra and Raphael. When I was single,<br />
I used to waste a lot of time doing silly things; I’m<br />
eronall ar more eficen no.<br />
I arrange certain days with a babysitter and pump all<br />
my meetings into one block instead of running around<br />
all over town, driving all over the place. I look back<br />
and think, why didn’t I do this before?<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 93
FEATURE<br />
The Dermal Diary It’s All Here Day Cream<br />
The Dermal Diary Purifying Cleanser<br />
www.thedermaldiary.com<br />
Isabella<br />
Loneragan<br />
FOUNDER, THE DERMAL DIARY<br />
Did entrepreneurship come easy to you?<br />
My drive has always been 50% be a business owner<br />
and 50% be in the beauty industry. I started as a<br />
facialist in 2007 in South Africa, running a traditional<br />
beauty business, including nails, out of my spare<br />
room. My business had one big plus: 180-degree<br />
ocean views in Cape Town. Customers got to lie on a<br />
treatment bed and look out to the ocean.<br />
All businesses need a unique selling point. It’s<br />
hard to open on a high street and be a regular<br />
therapist; what pulls customers in is some kind of<br />
wow factor. Whether you have your own product or a<br />
location that can’t be beat, you need to differentiate<br />
yourself somehow.<br />
How did you switch from cosmetic grooming to<br />
clinical expert?<br />
I wanted something with more guts, a dermal<br />
therapy role, so I studied and returned to Australia<br />
in 2011. For four years I worked alongside incredible<br />
dermatologists at a clinic, learning so much about
acne, rosacea, even mental health. I worked with amazing<br />
products, such as Rationale, Aspect and Cosmedix, which<br />
were great for specific concerns and were prescribed for<br />
certain skin types and age groups.<br />
The doctors tasked me with finding the best products,<br />
so I researched the market and sourced a lot of different<br />
options to treat all the different conditions I was seeing.<br />
A lot of patients were on antibiotics for conditions like<br />
acne. Repeat customers filling prescriptions would<br />
confide that they didn’t like the side effects, did we<br />
have other solutions? I recommended some products<br />
that would help, but realised that there was a massive<br />
hole in the market for people who prefer an alternative<br />
to medication.<br />
How did you go back out on your own?<br />
My career came to a crossroads. I could go back to<br />
medical school for 10 years and become a dermatologist,<br />
or set up my own skin therapy business and help people<br />
in the field straight away. I backed myself and decided to<br />
wing it. I had a side hustle to pay the mortgage and off<br />
I went.<br />
I chose the name The Dermal Diary because I had<br />
a blog – back in 2015 when blogging was massive –<br />
answering lots of questions about skin conditions, finding<br />
the right sunscreen or why skin goes red. The name still<br />
worked. I started my clinic in a small space and saw 11<br />
clients on my first day, which was incredible. Old clients<br />
from the dermatology clinic had googled my name.<br />
How did you expand from in-person treatment to<br />
manufacturing?<br />
Two years into opening my own clinic, I hired a business<br />
coach who challenged me to research creating my own<br />
product. It hit me: I was having to juggle ingredients<br />
from five brands to get my results. I spent a couple of<br />
months researching pharmacies that create formulas and<br />
design packaging.<br />
What boxes did your new products have to tick?<br />
They had to be Australian made, have recyclable<br />
packaging, and you needed to be able to see how much<br />
product remained, so customers weren’t left in the lurch<br />
one night when it ran out. My production size had to be<br />
small to keep it fresh, and I wanted to design my own<br />
logo. Luckily, I eventually found a company that could<br />
do it all.<br />
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FEATURE
What is The Dermal Diary routine you created?<br />
I launched eight products initially: cleanser, toner,<br />
three serums, and a couple of moisturisers.<br />
Now I have about 25 products in total. As the<br />
demand presented itself, I just developed more.<br />
How much does feedback from The Dermal Diary<br />
clinic influence the products?<br />
It’s huge. People make the mistake of making a<br />
product and hoping people will like it, whereas it<br />
may not even sell. Dermal Diary products have been<br />
developed after years of listening to hundreds of<br />
clients share what they like, don’t like, want to pay<br />
and the results that they are after. My experience with<br />
real people shapes it; the clinic gave me all the case<br />
studies I needed.<br />
The clinic helped the product – does it work the<br />
other way around?<br />
Yes! I used to complain that I couldn’t find the<br />
perfect product for my clinic treatments. Now I<br />
have it. Having a skincare line also saved me during<br />
lockdown because I could still serve my customers<br />
around the country even though the clinic itself was<br />
shut down. No one else has it, and my clients are<br />
hooked on the results. After three years, we already<br />
had the sales momentum to get us through the<br />
worst of the pandemic. Unsurprisingly, some clinics<br />
never reopened because they couldn’t survive two<br />
lockdowns in two years.<br />
day went from 7am to 9pm so that I could get where I<br />
needed to go.<br />
I now have two kids under two years old (a 4 monthold<br />
and a 23 month-old), so I am behind the scenes a<br />
lot more, taking maternity leave and paring down to<br />
being in the clinic two days a fortnight. It’s a balancing<br />
act and the simple fact is that when I pull away, for<br />
example while breastfeeding, of course the business<br />
will suffer. Wherever you put energy will thrive. The<br />
Dermal Diary is built on my effort so I can never<br />
completely pull my foot off the accelerator. There is<br />
no such thing as annual leave or sick pay and I still<br />
need to be present, training and motivating my staff to<br />
maintain standards.<br />
What is your product of the moment?<br />
I created the Dream Mask because women love the<br />
idea of masks, but don’t love taking them off. I found<br />
a way to keep it simple. You can exfoliate, apply this<br />
highly nourishing, probiotic mask, leave it on, then<br />
sleep and dream in it – the lazy woman’s mask! It fits<br />
the gap perfectly and is still one of our best-selling<br />
crowd pleasers. CBM<br />
Which is most crucial to entrepreneurial success:<br />
the idea or the passion behind it?<br />
You have to love what you do and really enjoy it –<br />
then it doesn’t feel like you’re working. I believe<br />
that you do well when it’s not only about the money.<br />
Entrepreneurs are just not designed to work for other<br />
people. I had so much drive and so many incredible<br />
ideas but not everyone understood the vision and I<br />
got frustrated. I don’t like being told what to do. As<br />
the boss, once you make a decision and implement<br />
it, it’s done.<br />
What’s your boss like to work for?<br />
Haha! I laugh when people tell me how lucky I am<br />
to work for myself because it’s so flexible and I can<br />
have time off. Yes, entrepreneurs can work when they<br />
like, but ask them and they usually work all the time.<br />
Initially when I was younger with incredible drive, my<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 97
FEATURE<br />
UNDER<br />
THE<br />
KNIFE<br />
IS THE<br />
AUSTRALIAN<br />
COSMETIC<br />
SURGERY<br />
INDUSTRY<br />
GETTING A<br />
FACELIFT?
WE REPORT ON THE CURRENT ‘COSMETIC<br />
SURGEON’ CRISIS IN AUSTRALIA AND<br />
PROPOSED CHANGES TO THE INDUSTRY.<br />
The recent and much<br />
publicised joint investigation<br />
between Four Corners, The<br />
Age and Sydney Morning Herald<br />
into some alarming practices at<br />
a popular cosmetic surgery clinic<br />
has put the Australian aesthetics<br />
industry under close scrutiny and<br />
prompted a renewed push for<br />
increased regulation.<br />
The debate is centred on the<br />
use of the title ‘cosmetic surgeon’,<br />
with health ministers calling for a<br />
review of the industry and more<br />
transparency for consumers.<br />
The investigation reported<br />
allegations of medical misconduct<br />
by cosmetic surgeon Dr Daniel<br />
Lanzer, including hygiene and safety<br />
breaches, with multiple patients<br />
saying botched surgeries left<br />
them with pain or requiring further<br />
medical treatment.<br />
Shortly after the program aired in<br />
October 2021, the Australian Health<br />
Practitioner Regulation Agency<br />
(AHPRA), the medical regulator,<br />
launched an investigation into<br />
Dr Lanzer. A statement on the<br />
AHPRA website on October 30<br />
said Dr Lanzer had agreed not to<br />
practice medicine in Australia while<br />
the investigation continued.<br />
Since then, a senior associate at<br />
Dr Lanzer’s clinic, Dr Daniel Aronov<br />
(a cosmetic surgeon with more than<br />
13 million TikTok followers) has<br />
also been banned from performing<br />
cosmetic surgery in Australia and<br />
ordered to remove all procedurerelated<br />
material on social media.<br />
LANDMARK REVIEWS<br />
BY HEALTH REGULATOR<br />
AND STATE AND<br />
FEDERAL GOVERNMENTS<br />
CALL FOR OVERHAUL OF<br />
COSMETICS INDUSTRY<br />
AHPRA works with Australia’s<br />
national boards to regulate<br />
the country’s registered health<br />
practitioners. One of its purposes is<br />
to manage complaints and concerns<br />
raised about health practitioners.<br />
The regulator is currently<br />
undergoing a major review of the<br />
cosmetic surgery sector, its firstever<br />
review into patient safety.<br />
AHPRA’s review, led by the outgoing<br />
Queensland Health Ombudsman<br />
Andrew Brown, will examine the<br />
advertising of cosmetic surgery,<br />
the current codes of conduct and<br />
protocols around how complaints<br />
are handled.<br />
AHPRA CEO Martin Fletcher said<br />
the cosmetic industry had ‘worrying<br />
features’ which made it riskier than<br />
other areas of medicine.<br />
FEDERAL HEALTH MINISTER GREG HUNT<br />
HAS ASKED STATE HEALTH MINISTERS TO<br />
MAKE NEW LAWS A PRIORITY.<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 99
FEATURE<br />
‘Among them, corporate business<br />
models that are allegedly placing<br />
profit over patient safety, procedures<br />
being undertaken for no medical<br />
need, limited factual information<br />
for consumers, and the exponential<br />
growth in social media that often<br />
emphasises benefits and downplays<br />
risks,’ he told the ABC.<br />
‘Cosmetic practice has rapidly<br />
grown as a multi-million dollar<br />
entrepreneurial industry with<br />
practices and marketing methods<br />
that raise ethical dilemmas,’ he<br />
added.<br />
At the time of writing in mid-<br />
December 2021, the federal and<br />
state governments just launched<br />
a landmark review aimed at<br />
overhauling laws into who can call<br />
themselves a cosmetic surgeon,<br />
and increasing the penalties for<br />
deceptive advertising and social<br />
media abuses, according to the<br />
Sydney Morning Herald.<br />
Federal Health Minister Greg Hunt<br />
has asked state health ministers to<br />
make new laws a priority.<br />
On December 12, the states and<br />
Commonwealth released a 108-<br />
page Regulation Impact Statement<br />
(RIS) into the use of the title<br />
‘surgeon’ and ‘cosmetic surgeon’. It<br />
will be open for public consultation*<br />
until April 1, 2022, with the public<br />
invited to anonymously provide<br />
feedback about their experiences<br />
and submissions.<br />
According to the statement,<br />
an anonymous survey and direct<br />
submissions would help devise<br />
policy responses to reform the<br />
cosmetic procedures industry.<br />
The consulting document<br />
canvasses a series of options,<br />
including restricting the title<br />
‘surgeon’ under National Law<br />
and undertaking major public<br />
information campaigns.<br />
Other options include<br />
strengthening the existing<br />
framework through administrative<br />
rather than legislative mechanisms<br />
and increasing provider liability for<br />
non-economic damages.<br />
A fourth option is to maintain the<br />
status quo, but this seems unlikely.<br />
The consulting document<br />
said ministers were ‘particularly’<br />
concerned that the practice of<br />
cosmetic surgery and widespread<br />
use of the informal title ‘cosmetic<br />
surgeon’ may be strongly and<br />
disproportionately associated with<br />
these risks and harm. It said there<br />
was an information and power<br />
asymmetry between patients and<br />
practitioners, which was contributing<br />
to the risk of consumer harm.<br />
‘It can be difficult for the public<br />
to obtain information from neutral<br />
and informed sources, particularly<br />
as most cosmetic surgery<br />
consumers obtain information about<br />
prospective procedures from the<br />
practitioners that perform those<br />
procedures and from social media,’<br />
the report says.<br />
‘This RIS is interested to discover<br />
how widespread cosmetic surgery<br />
resulting in significant harm and<br />
complications [might] be, and<br />
whether medical practitioners’<br />
qualifications are contributing to<br />
potential harm.’<br />
It said advertising and marketing<br />
material must comply with a series<br />
of laws. Breaches of the law for<br />
advertising offences can incur
THE CONSULTING DOCUMENT CANVASSES A SERIES<br />
OF OPTIONS, INCLUDING RESTRICTING THE TITLE<br />
‘SURGEON’ UNDER NATIONAL LAW AND UNDERTAKING<br />
MAJOR PUBLIC INFORMATION CAMPAIGNS.<br />
WHO CAN BE A<br />
COSMETIC SURGEON?<br />
WHO CAN BE A<br />
PLASTIC SURGEON?<br />
Often ‘plastic surgeon’ and ‘cosmetic<br />
surgeon’ are used interchangeably,<br />
but by law only practitioners who have<br />
completed an additional 8-12 years of<br />
specialist plastic surgical training, beyond<br />
their medical degree, can call themselves<br />
plastic surgeons.<br />
financial penalties of $5,000 for each<br />
advertising offence for an individual<br />
and $10,000 for a body corporate.<br />
Public consultation for the review<br />
began on 21 December, 2021 and<br />
closes on 1 April, 2022. A report is<br />
expected around the middle of the<br />
year. CBM<br />
* If you would like to participate in<br />
the survery, visit https://engage.vic.<br />
gov.au/medical-practitioners-usetitle-surgeon-under-national-law<br />
As it stands, anyone with a basic medical<br />
degree is able to call themselves a<br />
‘cosmetic surgeon’. This means the<br />
‘cosmetic surgeon’ title can cover a wide<br />
spectrum of doctors, from those with no<br />
formal surgical training to those who are<br />
highly skilled with decades of experience.<br />
This unusual ‘loophole’ can be exploited<br />
because there is no formal pathway<br />
for any doctor to specifically train in<br />
cosmetic procedures – and it is this<br />
‘loophole’ that health ministers are<br />
currently consulting on.<br />
Indeed, the title of ‘cosmetic surgeon’,<br />
and who can use it, is at the forefront of<br />
the federal and states review. This is a<br />
space we will be watching closely.<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 101
COSMETIC ENHANCEMENT<br />
THE MOST<br />
POPULAR<br />
ANTI-AGEING<br />
TREATMENT<br />
OF ALL TIME
AS BOTOX COSMETIC<br />
CELEBRATES ITS 20TH<br />
BIRTHDAY THIS YEAR IN THE<br />
UNITED STATES, WE TAKE<br />
A TRIP DOWN MEMORY<br />
LANE WITH THE FOUNDERS<br />
OF THIS REVOLUTIONARY<br />
TREATMENT.<br />
Thought to be the most<br />
powerful toxin known to<br />
man and capable of causing<br />
paralysis, millions of people<br />
across the world have botulinum<br />
toxin type A injections to address the<br />
ageing effects of furrows, frowns and<br />
wrinkles. What was once the domain<br />
of the A-listers is now very much<br />
entrenched in the ‘every woman’<br />
modern-day beauty arsenal and has<br />
become a worldwide phenomenon.<br />
THE BIRTH OF BOTOX<br />
Although the cosmetic effect of<br />
botulinum toxin on wrinkles was<br />
first documented by a plastic<br />
surgeon from Sacramento, it wasn’t<br />
until Canadian husband and wife<br />
ophthalmologist and dermatologist<br />
physicians Jean and Alastair<br />
Carruthers published their research<br />
in 1992 that ‘Botox’ for cosmetic<br />
use was officially born. In 2002, it<br />
was officially approved in the US<br />
as a treatment for frown lines<br />
in adults. (Australia had already<br />
introduced Botox for cosmetic use<br />
back in 1999.)<br />
The birth of Botox to treat wrinkles<br />
was something of an accident. As an<br />
ophthalmologist, Jean Carruthers<br />
had been using botulinum toxin<br />
type A to treat blepharospasm – an<br />
uncontrolled muscle spasm that<br />
occurs in the eye.<br />
‘One of Jean’s patients<br />
complained that she hadn’t been<br />
treated in this area,’ Dr Alastair<br />
Carruthers told us during an<br />
exclusive interview in San Diego<br />
some years back, pointing to the<br />
region between his eyes where<br />
you’d imagine frown lines may<br />
exist had he not discovered Botox’s<br />
‘other’ use.<br />
“I didn’t think you were spasming<br />
there,” my wife replied, to which the<br />
patient explained, “But every time<br />
you treat me there I get this overly<br />
untroubled, unworried look and<br />
my family tells me I look so much<br />
better!”’ he recalls.<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 103
COSMETIC ENHANCEMENT<br />
As a dermatologist, Alastair<br />
Carruthers knew first-hand the<br />
significance of this flyaway comment.<br />
In the late 1980s, his cosmetic<br />
toolbox was sadly lacking any<br />
weapon capable of improving<br />
the appearance of frown lines.<br />
‘We didn’t have anything,’ he<br />
emphasises. ‘Collagen was about it.’<br />
It didn’t take long for the<br />
husband and wife team to begin<br />
their exploration into the cosmetic<br />
potential of botulinum toxin type<br />
A. ‘The very next day, Jean treated<br />
our receptionist, Cathy,’ says Dr<br />
Carruthers. ‘Cathy had witnessed<br />
Jean inject hundreds of clients<br />
so she knew it was a reasonable<br />
procedure. A few days later, I saw<br />
her and remember saying, “Wow”,<br />
because I hadn’t seen anything like it<br />
before,’ he recalls.<br />
With his cosmetic practice side by<br />
side with his wife’s ophthalmology<br />
clinic, from that point on, Alastair<br />
Carruthers would send his own<br />
patients next door for treatment, any<br />
time he met someone who wanted<br />
to improve the appearance of their<br />
forehead furrows.<br />
Of course, without clinical<br />
evidence the use of botulinum toxin<br />
would not be the phenomenon it is<br />
today. ‘It took time, but we gradually<br />
accumulated a number of people<br />
and, in March 1991, we were able to<br />
present our data,’ he says.<br />
The results were impressive, but<br />
the timing poor. In 1991, the US FDA<br />
(Food and Drug Administration) was<br />
in the midst of threatening jail-time<br />
for the illegal promotion of the<br />
off-label use of Retin-A. ‘And then<br />
we come along and tell the FDA<br />
we want to inject the most deadly<br />
material known to humanity in order<br />
to treat wrinkles,’ Dr Carruthers says.<br />
‘Everyone said we were crazy.’<br />
CAN BOTOX REALLY<br />
MAKE US HAPPIER?<br />
There is mounting evidence to suggest that Botox<br />
injections in the forehead to stop us frowning can<br />
not only make us look happier but feel it, too.<br />
We smile just because we’re happy and frown<br />
when we’re angry or sad. Or do we? Evidence is<br />
mounting to suggest we can “trick” our brains into<br />
a more positive outlook or out of a negative one by<br />
consciously controlling our facial expressions. While<br />
it’s sometimes hard to control our emotions, it’s<br />
much easier to control our muscles.<br />
Scientists have long believed that our emotions<br />
are reinforced – perhaps even driven – by their<br />
corresponding facial expressions, known in<br />
psychology as the facial feedback hypothesis, ie if<br />
we force a smile when we’re feeling down, we will<br />
actually start to feel happier. The theory is that if we<br />
cannot physically frown, the brain feels there may be<br />
less to frown about – the psychological equivalent of<br />
the old song “when you’re smiling, the whole world<br />
smiles with you”.<br />
A spate of studies on Botox recipients have given<br />
further weight to the argument that the brain can<br />
be “tricked” into a better mood. Psychologists at<br />
the University of Cardiff in Wales found that people<br />
whose ability to frown is compromised by musclerelaxant<br />
injections such as Botox are happier, on<br />
average, than people who can frown.<br />
The researchers administered an anxiety and<br />
depression questionnaire to 25 women, half of<br />
whom had received Botox. The Botox recipients<br />
reported feeling happier and less anxious in general.<br />
Significantly, they did not report feeling any more<br />
attractive, which suggests that the emotional effects<br />
were not driven by a psychological boost that could<br />
come from the treatment’s cosmetic nature.<br />
‘It would appear that the way we feel emotions<br />
isn’t just restricted to our brain – there are parts of<br />
our bodies that help and reinforce the feelings we’re<br />
having,’ says Michael Lewis, a co-author of the study.<br />
‘It’s like a feedback loop.’
Cosmetic surgeons the world<br />
over started to use it – off-label<br />
– to improve the appearance of<br />
frown lines, but it wasn’t until 2002,<br />
after formal clinical trials, that the<br />
FDA approved Botox Cosmetic to<br />
temporarily improve the appearance<br />
of moderate to severe frown lines<br />
between the eyebrows.<br />
‘It took a while, but with the<br />
support of some key dermatologists,<br />
it was as if all of a sudden there was<br />
a critical mass and people started to<br />
listen to us,’ Dr Carruthers recalls.<br />
Botox Cosmetic, as we know, went<br />
on to become a major blockbuster,<br />
estimated to bring in US$2 billion in<br />
annual sales for Allergan.<br />
Given that Botox can be<br />
considered one of the most<br />
successful symbioses in late-20thcentury<br />
cosmetic medicine, it’s<br />
understandable to assume that Jean<br />
and Alastair Carruthers went on to<br />
become billionaires.<br />
As two people upholding an<br />
ethical position, however, they<br />
refused to cash in. Although they<br />
eventually went on to become<br />
consultants with Allergan, the<br />
multi-billion dollar company that<br />
would launch Botox Cosmetic, and<br />
which already owned the formula for<br />
medical use, they never patented<br />
their discovery.<br />
‘We took advice from a lawyer in<br />
Toronto who was supposed to be an<br />
expert and said that he did not think<br />
this was a patentable idea. We have<br />
since learned that it was indeed,’ Dr<br />
Carruthers told a Canadian magazine<br />
back in 2010. ‘Are there any regrets?<br />
I guess so, but not major.’<br />
WHAT EXACTLY IS<br />
BOTULINUM TOXIN<br />
AND WHAT CAN IT<br />
TREAT?<br />
Botulinum toxin is a protein<br />
produced by the bacterium<br />
Clostridium botulinum. It is a muscle<br />
relaxant that is commonly used<br />
for cosmetic facial enhancement,<br />
particularly to treat crow’s feet<br />
around the eyes, the frown lines<br />
between the eyebrows (glabellar<br />
lines) and the worry lines across the<br />
forehead. The marionette or sad<br />
lines, from the corner of the mouth<br />
to the chin, can be effectively treated<br />
with botulinum toxin. It can also be<br />
used to produce the effect of a brow<br />
lift by relaxing the muscles that drag<br />
down the brow.<br />
In cosmetic procedures, botulinum<br />
toxin works by blocking nerve<br />
stimulation to wrinkle-causing<br />
muscles, which prevents the muscle<br />
from contracting and significantly<br />
reduces wrinkles and fine lines.<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 105
BOTOX: PAST, PRESENT<br />
& POSSIBLE USES<br />
COSMETIC ENHANCEMENT<br />
Approved medical and cosmetic uses are shown in bold. Allergan is currently investigating or<br />
has a patent pending on all other indications shown.<br />
Chronic headaches<br />
EYELID TWITCHING<br />
Inner ear disorders<br />
Neck pain<br />
Thyroid disorder<br />
FROWN LINES<br />
CROSSED EYES<br />
NECK MUSCLE<br />
CONTRACTIONS<br />
SEVERE UNDERARM SWEATING<br />
Stretch mark reduction<br />
Cranial nerve disorders<br />
Facial spasms<br />
Downturned mouth<br />
Teeth grinding<br />
Facilitating dental procedures<br />
Vocal chord disorder<br />
Oesophageal problems<br />
(difficulty swallowing)<br />
Relaxing blood vessels in heart disease<br />
Cardiac muscle disorder<br />
Ulcers and acid reflux disease<br />
Reduced appetite<br />
Pancreas disorders<br />
Back pain<br />
Intra-spinal pain<br />
Overactive bladder<br />
Essential tremor<br />
(especially arms)<br />
Buttock deformity<br />
Benign enlarged prostate<br />
Testicular pain<br />
Anal fissure<br />
JUVENILE CEREBRAL PALSY<br />
Involuntary twitching<br />
Bone tumour pain<br />
Skeletal muscle pain<br />
POST-STROKE LIMB SPASTICITY<br />
Sources: Food and Drug Administration; Allergan; New York Times
NOT JUST A<br />
PRETTY FACE<br />
While many people think of botulinum<br />
toxin as a modern-day treatment for<br />
wrinkles, it has actually been used since<br />
the 1960s to treat a range of medical<br />
conditions. But its discovery actually<br />
extends much further back in time.<br />
In the 19th century, German<br />
physician Justinus Christian Kerner first<br />
recognised the potential therapeutic<br />
uses of botulinum toxin. An 1815<br />
outbreak of botulism (a dangerous<br />
paralytic illness caused by the toxin<br />
botulin) in southern Germany among<br />
people who had eaten uncooked blood<br />
sausage led Kerner to publish a precise<br />
description of botulism’s symptoms<br />
– from blurred vision to progressive<br />
muscle weakness, culminating in<br />
respiratory failure. He postulated<br />
that minute quantities of the diseaseproducing<br />
substance might be able to<br />
treat disorders of the nervous system.<br />
In the 1970s, Dr Alan Scott of<br />
the Smith-Kettlewell Eye Institute<br />
demonstrated that botulinum toxin<br />
was a powerful therapeutic agent that<br />
could be used to treat ophthalmic<br />
disorders associated with muscle<br />
over-activity such as lazy eye or eyelid<br />
spasms (blepharospasms). Since then,<br />
it has been used to treat a variety of<br />
involuntary muscle contractions or<br />
disorders such as neck spasms (cervical<br />
dystonia), to reduce symptoms of<br />
an overactive bladder, relieve teeth<br />
clenching and grinding, and even<br />
as a migraine and tension headache<br />
preventative.<br />
Botulinum toxin is used in much<br />
higher doses to treat children two years<br />
of age or older suffering from cerebral<br />
palsy to help them walk.<br />
It can also be injected into the skin<br />
to block the action of the nerves that<br />
control sweat glands, and in this way<br />
treat excessive localised sweating<br />
(hyperhidrosis), especially severe<br />
underarm sweating.<br />
‘TOX IN OZ:<br />
BOTOX,<br />
DYSPORT &<br />
XEOMIN<br />
Today, botulinum toxin is available for cosmetic<br />
use in Australia under the brand names Botox,<br />
Dysport and Xeomin, and all are TGA approved for<br />
their ability to relax facial muscles and improve the<br />
appearance of furrows between the eyes.<br />
BE CONFIDENT IN WHO’S<br />
INJECTING YOUR FACE<br />
With cosmetic injections becoming as ubiquitous as<br />
facials and haircuts, it’s incredibly important – from<br />
both a safety and an aesthetic perspective – that<br />
your injector is accredited and experienced.<br />
Cosmetic injections are medical procedures that<br />
require a physical examination and history-taking<br />
for a complete consultation. Like any medical<br />
procedure, they also carry an element of risk.<br />
In the rare event of serious complications arising,<br />
you want to be assured you are in the best possible<br />
hands to remedy the situation. Always be sure to<br />
check the qualifications of your injector to ensure<br />
you are being treated by a qualified and trained<br />
practitioner.<br />
Be aware that cheapest is not always best;<br />
don’t make your decision on price alone. After<br />
all, it’s your face, and your safety, we’re talking<br />
about. CBM<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 107
WELLNESS<br />
EVERYTHING<br />
YOU THOUGHT<br />
YOU KNEW<br />
ABOUT<br />
METABOLISM<br />
MAY BE<br />
WRONG<br />
RECENT RESEARCH HAS SHAKEN<br />
WIDELY HELD WEIGHT LOSS<br />
THEORIES TO THE CORE. AS IT<br />
TURNS OUT, YOU WON’T BE<br />
ABLE TO BLAME A SLOW<br />
METABOLISM FOR YOUR<br />
WEIGHT GAIN ANYMORE.
WHILE SEVERAL FACTORS COULD EXPLAIN THE<br />
THICKENING WAISTLINES THAT OFTEN EMERGE DURING<br />
OUR PRIME WORKING YEARS, THE FINDINGS SUGGEST THAT<br />
A CHANGING METABOLISM ISN’T ONE OF THEM.<br />
Remember those heady days of<br />
youth when it seemed we could<br />
eat anything we want and not<br />
gain weight? And now even so much<br />
as a glance at a Tim Tam will send the<br />
scales in the wrong direction? Our<br />
metabolism has taken the brunt of<br />
the blame for decades, but a landmark<br />
2021 study * published in the journal<br />
Science says metabolism in adulthood<br />
does not slow as commonly believed.<br />
‘There are lots of physiological<br />
changes that come with growing up<br />
and getting older,’ says study co-author<br />
Herman Pontzer, associate professor<br />
of evolutionary anthropology at<br />
Duke University. ‘Think puberty,<br />
menopause, other phases of life.<br />
What’s weird is that the timing of our<br />
“metabolic life stages” doesn’t seem to<br />
match those typical milestones.’<br />
Total daily energy expenditure<br />
reflects daily energy needs and is a<br />
critical variable in human health and<br />
physiology, but its trajectory over the<br />
life course is poorly studied. Pontzer<br />
and an international team of scientists<br />
analysed the average calories burned<br />
(daily energy expenditure) by more<br />
than 6,600 people ranging from one<br />
week old to age 95 across 29 countries<br />
as they went about their daily lives.<br />
SMASHING<br />
4<br />
THE<br />
STAGES OF<br />
METABOLISM<br />
1.<br />
From one week old up until age 1,<br />
your metabolism is at its highest<br />
level, accelerating until it is 50%<br />
above the adult rate.<br />
2.<br />
From age 1 to 20, metabolism slows<br />
down gradually at a rate of around<br />
3% per year.<br />
3.<br />
Between ages 20 to 60, your<br />
metabolism remains relatively stable.<br />
4.<br />
From age 60 onwards, it slows<br />
down by about 0.7% a year.<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 107
THE DATA SUGGEST THAT OUR<br />
METABOLISMS DON’T REALLY START TO<br />
DECLINE AGAIN UNTIL AFTER AGE 60.<br />
WELLNESS<br />
METABOLISM<br />
MYTHS<br />
Analysing energy expenditures across<br />
the entire lifespan revealed some<br />
surprises. Some people think of their<br />
teens and 20s as the age when their<br />
calorie-burning potential hits its peak.<br />
But the researchers found that infants<br />
had the highest metabolic rates of all; a<br />
one-year-old burns calories 50% faster<br />
for their body size than an adult.<br />
After this initial surge in infancy,<br />
the data show that metabolism slows<br />
by about 3% each year until we reach<br />
our 20s, when it levels off into a<br />
new normal.<br />
Despite the teen years being a time<br />
of growth spurts, the researchers didn’t<br />
see any uptick in daily calorie needs in<br />
adolescence after they took body size<br />
into account. ‘We really thought puberty<br />
would be different and it’s not,’<br />
Pontzer says.<br />
Midlife was another surprise. We’ve<br />
been told that it’s all downhill after<br />
30 when it comes to our weight. But<br />
while several factors could explain<br />
the thickening waistlines that often<br />
emerge during our prime working years,<br />
the findings suggest that a changing<br />
metabolism isn’t one of them.<br />
In fact, the researchers discovered<br />
that energy expenditures during these<br />
middle decades – our 20s, 30s, 40s and<br />
50s -- were the most stable. Even during<br />
pregnancy, a woman’s calorie needs were<br />
no more or less than expected given her<br />
added bulk as the baby grows.<br />
WHAT IS<br />
METABOLISM?<br />
Metabolism is the process by which<br />
your body converts what you eat<br />
and drink into energy. During this<br />
complex process, calories in food and<br />
beverages are combined with oxygen<br />
to release the energy your body needs<br />
to function.<br />
Even at rest, your body needs<br />
energy for all its ‘hidden’ functions<br />
to keep you alive and your organs<br />
functioning normally, such as breathing,<br />
circulating blood, adjusting hormone<br />
levels, growing and repairing cells, and<br />
digesting food.<br />
The minimum amount of energy<br />
your body requires to perform these<br />
chemical processes is called the basal<br />
metabolic rate (BMR).<br />
Your individual basal metabolic rate,<br />
or metabolism, is determined by your<br />
body size and composition, sex and<br />
muscle composition. In addition to your<br />
BMR, thermogenesis (food processing)<br />
and physical activity determine how<br />
many calories your body expends, or<br />
burns, each day.<br />
People who struggle to lose weight<br />
often blame a slow metabolism. But<br />
there’s actually little evidence to<br />
support this claim.<br />
Conversely, research shows that<br />
overweight people have faster<br />
metabolisms than thinner people.<br />
Larger bodies require more energy<br />
to carry out basic bodily functions.<br />
More often than not, the reason you’re<br />
putting on weight is not because of a<br />
slow metabolism; it’s because you’re<br />
eating and drinking more calories than<br />
you’re burning.
WHY 60<br />
IS THE<br />
NEW 30<br />
The data collected in the study suggest<br />
that our metabolisms don’t really start<br />
to decline again until after age 60. The<br />
slowdown is gradual, only 0.7% a year.<br />
But a person in their 90s needs 26%<br />
fewer calories each day than someone<br />
in midlife.<br />
The findings suggest that other factors<br />
lie behind the so-called ‘middle-age<br />
spread. Lost muscle mass as we get older<br />
may be partly to blame, the researchers<br />
say, since muscle burns more calories<br />
than fat. But it’s not the whole picture.<br />
‘It’s because [our] cells are slowing<br />
down,’ Pontzer says.<br />
The patterns held even when differing<br />
activity levels were taken into account.<br />
For a long time, what drives shifts in<br />
energy expenditure has been difficult to<br />
parse because ageing goes hand in hand<br />
with so many other changes, Pontzer<br />
says. But the research lends support to<br />
the idea that it’s more than age-related<br />
changes in lifestyle or body composition.<br />
‘All of this points to the conclusion<br />
that tissue metabolism, the work that<br />
the cells are doing, is changing over the<br />
course of the lifespan in ways we haven’t<br />
fully appreciated before,’ he says. ‘You<br />
really need a big data set like this to get<br />
at those questions.’<br />
‘These changes shed light on human<br />
development and ageing and should<br />
help shape nutrition and health<br />
strategies across the life span,’ the<br />
authors conclude. CBM<br />
Source: Today.Duke.edu<br />
*<br />
Daily Energy Expenditure Through the Human<br />
Life Course,’ Herman Pontzer, Yosuke Yamada,<br />
Hiroyuki Sagayama, et al. Science, Aug. 12,<br />
2021. DOI: 10.1126/science.abe5017<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 109
BEAUTY<br />
E d’s<br />
fa<br />
ves
1.<br />
2.<br />
3.<br />
4.<br />
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7.<br />
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Christina Sikalias Beauty Luce Del Sole Eye Palette, $128, 7. Jean Paul Gaultier Le Belle EDT 100ml, $202, 8. Mavala Iconic Color’s<br />
Collection + Silicium Nail Polish in Inverness, Detroit, Manaus, Muscat, Rangoon and Salamanca, $8.95 each, 9. Christina Sikalias<br />
Beauty Luce Del Sole Lip Gloss, $36, 10. Gucci GG Crystal-Embellished Earrings, $640<br />
www.cosbeauty.com.au 111
3.<br />
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BEAUTY<br />
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112
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www.cosbeauty.com.au 113
BEAUTY<br />
114
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www.cosbeauty.com.au 115
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