038-051 tobago j

Weitere Magazine

Empfehlungen

Info

Einmannfabrik, wo er bei kubanischem Son mit einer Zigarre im Mund bedächtig seine <strong>tobago</strong>nischen Unikate fabriziert. Der Rest der Insel wiegt sich lieber im traditionellen Calypso- Rhythmus oder im moderneren Ragga. Beiden gleich ist der harte Beat der Trommeln, der von der alten Heimat der Bevölkerung – ehemalige Sklaven aus Afrika – bis ins Hier und Jetzt seine Gültigkeit hat. Gepaart mit dem leichten klingenden Sound der Steeldrums ergibt dies eine Art heiteren Blues, wehmütig und optimistisch zugleich, sehnsüchtig und dem Takt des Herzens folgend. Das breite Spektrum musikalischer Nuancen vereint sich jeden Sonntag beim größten Lime der Insel in Buccoo. Zur legendären „Sunday School“ verwandelt sich der kleine Ort ab 9 Uhr abends in ein riesiges Straßenfest, das erst bei Morgengrauen endet. Jung und Alt, Weiß und Schwarz wiegen sich zu den in sich verschmelzenden Rhythmen von Calypso, Reggae und Ragga. Obskure Glücksspiele, Ziegen- und Krabbenrennen und jede Menge Rum heizen die Stimmung zusätzlich an, sodass so mancher erst am Dienstag aus seiner Trance erwacht. (Für einige 007-Szenen musste sich Fleming wirklich nicht sehr anstrengen.) Nahezu jede Woche tankt die deutsche Bildhauerin Luise Kimme neue Energie beim Abtanzen in der „Sunday School“. Seit 1979 lebt die gebürtige Düsseldorferin auf einer luftigen Anhöhe mit Meerblick, wo sie ihre starken Holzfiguren anfertigt. Ihr imposantes offenes Wohnhaus mit Schlosscharakter ist als Museum für Besucher geöffnet, sogar eine Straße haben die Tobagoner nach ihr benannt. Ihre neuesten Figuren sind inspiriert von den Santa-Rita-Ritualen auf Kuba – eine Insel, die sie in letzter Zeit immer mehr anzieht. Ob die rüstige 65erin demnächst zu neuen Ufern aufbrechen wird, ist noch nicht ganz klar. Sicher ist nur, dass sie dann die Limings mit den Tobagonern sehr vermissen wird. LIMING IN THE SUN “You’re going to a barbecue-lime tonight at Fabrizio’s?” The artist Martin Superville’s eyes light up with enthusiasm as he reaches for his mobile phone and proceeds to invite himself to our hosts’ party. The mobile phone has become the equivalent of yesterday’s signal drums. Otherwise the people of Tobago couldn’t care less about modern life. They leave that to the big sister island of Trinidad, where visitors can enjoy the fast pace of city life. Trinidad is proud of the gas, oil and natural asphalt that have made the nation of Trinidad and Tobago the most economically powerful in the Caribbean. Living in the comfortable shadow of this affluence, the people of Tobago prefer to specialise in a practice known as “having a little lime” Tobago Forever: Die deutsche Bildhauerin Luise Kimme verlegte ihren Lebensmittelpunkt bereits 1979 auf die Insel. Der Italiener Gabriele (2. Bild r.) erfreut mit seinem Restaurant samt Top-Weinkeller seit 1990 die Tobagoner. Der Künstler Martin Superville aus Trinidad und seine Ehefrau Rachael aus Belize malen seit 1995 ausschließlich auf Tobago. Der Linzer Karl Pilstl verliebte sich knapp vorm neuen Jahrtausend ins verfallene „Blue Haven“-Hotel und ist jetzt erfolgreicher Selfmade-Hotelier. / Tobago forever: the German sculptor Luise Kimme moved to the island in 1979. The restaurant of Italy’s Gabriele (2 nd photo on the r.) has been pleasing local taste-buds since 1990. The artist Martin Superville from Trinidad and his wife, Rachael, from Belize have been painting on Tobago since 1995. The Austrian Karl Pilstl from Linz fell in love with the ruins of the Blue Haven Hotel just before the turn of the millennium and is now a successful self-made hotelier. TOBAGO or simply “liming”. Nowhere else in the world is there a special word for the ritual, which involves at least two people getting together somewhere – anywhere –, hanging out, making a little music, and letting the time float by over Carib beer and rum. It’s a character trait that allows visitors, even in the year 2004, to enjoy the Robinson-Crusoe romanticism of palm-lined sandy beaches and untouched rain forests. People like to recall the story of how the most famous shipwrecked man in history was stranded here. And, of course, the appropriate sightseeing-spot is open to visitors: Robinson’s Cave. While Mr. Crusoe actually landed on an island off the coast of Chile, Tobago did provide the story for Daniel Defoe’s novel: in choosing his setting he was inspired by the tales of a British trader and cartographer. Defoe was not the only writer whose imagination has been fired by the verdant tropical island. At his home on Goat Island, between the uninhabited “bird island” of Little Tobago and the sleepy fishing village of Speyside, Ian Fleming invented the adventures of 007. He took the name of agent James Bond from an ornithologist with whom he sometimes went walking. In the 1950s Hollywood discovered Tobago as well. Whenever a tropical paradise was called for, whether an atoll in the South Seas or a mini-Africa, the island always offered a suitable setting. Some film classics, such as Heaven Knows, Mr. Allison and Fire Down Below, were filmed completely on location here. Celebrities like Rita Hayworth and Robert Mitchum preferred to stay in Bacolet Bay at the Blue Haven Hotel, a Caribbean Art-Deco building in light blue and pink. Mitchum, in particular, had a tough-guy reputation that still hasn’t faded. His chauffeur at the time, Cecil Lyons, is now almost 70. Over a little lime, he revels in memories of the booze-and-bruise tours he used to take with the star. But when Hollywood went home, the Blue Haven’s heyday was over. Nature reclaimed the grounds, overgrowing the ruins until they were rediscovered by the Austrian Karl Pilstl just before the turn of the millennium. Together with his wife, Marilyn, from Trinidad, Pilstl shifted the focus of his life to Tobago and renovated the hotel – according to the original plans but with all the comforts of today. “It was very taxing, and I wouldn’t dream of trying it again”, says the self-made hotelier candidly, as we sit in the golden sunlight on his veranda. It doesn’t sound quite credible. Travel magazines from around the world routinely name his luxury hotel one of the loveliest in the Caribbean, and fashion photographers love it as a location. Pilstl is respected throughout the island. His socially conscious management style prompts many people to ask for employment. But anyone who has the impression that Tobago is gradually developing into a jet-setter’s paradise à la Saint Bart’s is mistaken. Tobago is still miles away from the architectural crowding seen in Barbados. Here where liming is the order of the day, no one has even bothered to build a road all the way around the island. Most of the bays are untouched and
TOUREN & GUIDES Yes! Tourism, Pigeon Point Rd., Crown Point, Tel.: 868/631 02 86, www.yes-tourism.com. Besitzer Patrick Dankou ist Berliner und lebt seit zehn Jahren auf Tobago. Er organisiert auch deutschsprachige Touren und kennt die Insel wie seine Westentasche. Über ihn kann man auch Off-Road-Touren mit Fabrizio Ceppi buchen, bei denen man das versteckte Hinterland erkundet. / Owner Patrick Dankou comes from Berlin and has been living in Tobago for the past 10 years. He organises tours and knows the island like the palm of his hand. He can also book off-road tours with Fabrizio Ceppi to explore the hinterland. AUTO Günstig und gute Betreuung gibt es bei: / Cars at reasonable prices from: Sheppy’s, 51 C Store Bay Local Road, Crown Point, Tel.: 868/639 15 43 HOTEL Blue Haven Hotel, Bacolet Bay, Scarborough, Tel.: 868/660 74 00, www.bluehavenhotel.com. Frisch renoviertes Luxushaus, das vom Österreicher Karl Pilstl liebevoll geführt wird. Nicht nur die englische Königin, auch Honeymooners sind begeistert. / Karl Pilstl’s renovated luxury hotel. ESSEN & TRINKEN La Tartaruga, Boccoo Bay Rd., Tel.: 868/639 09 40. Italienische Küche, toller Weinkeller. / Italian cuisine, fine wine cellar. Mélange, 133 Shirvan Rd., Tel.: 868/631 01 21. Karibische Fusions-Küche, nur für dicke Brieftaschen. / Pricey Caribbean fusion cuisine. Shutters on the Bay, Blue Haven Hotel. Karibische Ingredienzen international adaptiert. / Caribbean ingredients prepared in international style. La Terrazza, Shirvan Rd. Buccoo, Tel.: 868/639 82 42. Italienische Küche, gleich nebenan die einzige Tobago Cigar Factory. / Italian cuisine next to Tobago’s only cigar factory. Jemma’s Seaview Kitchen, Speyside. Restaurant, das in einer Baumkrone über dem Meer schwebt; ordentliche karibische Küche, keine Alkoholika. / Restaurant suspended in a treetop over the sea. Good Caribbean cuisine but no alcohol served. Indigo Inn, Pleasant Prospect, Tel.: 868/639 96 35. Open-Air-Restaurant, jeden Freitag Live-Acts, Calypso bis in den Morgen! / Open-air restaurant, live acts every Friday, calypso music into the wee small hours. DON’T MISS Luise Kimme Museum (ab dem Mount Irvine Bay einfach den Schildern folgen, Tel.: 868/639 02 57, http://luisekimme.com, So. von 10 bis 2 Uhr), fantastischer, schlossartiger Bau, beeindruckende Holzfiguren und dazwischen Luise Kimme mit ihren Hunden. / Fantastic, palatial building, impressive wooden statues and Luise Kimme with her dogs. The Art Gallery von Rachael und Martin Superville, mit moderner karibischer Kunst / Contemporary Caribbean art (Hibiscus Drive, Lowlands, Tel.: 868/639 04 57) Und: eine Glasbottom-Boat-Tour beim Buccoo Reef, den Bilderbuch-Strand der Englishman’s Bay, den beschaulichen Fischerort Charlotteville samt Pirates Bay, eine Tour auf der Vogelinsel Little Tobago und eine Fahrt oder Wanderung durch den Regenwald. Plus: Carib, Cigars & Calypso! / And: a glass-bottomed boat tour to Buccoo Reef, the picture-book beach of Englishman’s Bay, the quiet fishing village of Charlotteville including Pirates Bay, a tour of the bird island of Little Tobago and a drive or hike through the rain forest. Plus: Carib, Cigars & Calypso! EVENT-INFOS Gratis-Broschüre „What’s on in Tobago“, www.whatsonin<strong>tobago</strong>.com 50 TOBAGO Das „Blue Haven“, in den 50ern Hideaway von Hollywoodstars, gibt heute wieder eine passable Kulisse. / The Blue Haven, a 1950s hideaway for Hollywood stars, is once again a lovely place. unobstructed. And even near the hotels, the beaches belong to the locals, who hang their fishing nets out to dry in the morning and then take afternoon dips in the turquoise sea. Or to the sea turtles that have been coming here for millennia to bury their eggs in the sand. And of course the pelicans, parrots, humming birds and mot-mots – impertinent brown birds with long tail-feathers and an insistent cry. At the heart of the island is impenetrable rain forest, which Tobago wisely declared a nature reserve many years ago. Since 1765 almost nothing has changed, and today only a few trails lead through the dense undergrowth. In the less densely overgrown southern part of the area, old forest roads offer possibilities for exploring the jungle by Jeep. Only one man offers such off-road tours combined with hiking or trips to the Highland Waterfall: the Swiss Fabrizio. He didn’t come to the island entirely of his own volition. In Canada he fell in love with Claire from Trinidad, who was determined to return to the more temperate Caribbean. Not to hectic Trinidad, however, but to the more tranquil Tobago. It’s not an unusual story. Gabriele from Italy was brought to Tobago from Trinidad by his wife in 1990. His father came after him and was not impressed. But he could see that there was little risk in investing here and gave Gabriele a restaurant. Today his La Tartaruga is among the finest on the island. Its excellent cellar stocked with Italian wines is regularly cited by the US magazine Wine Spectator. Gabriele recently opened an Italian gelateria in the capital, Scarborough. The combination of Italian know-how with local fruits, such as pineapple, mango, lemon and coconut, is a huge success. Stefano, also from Italy, likewise yielded to gentle pressure to live the life of the southern Caribbean islands. He, too, has a Trinidadian wife. Along with his restaurant, La Terrazza, he’s been making headlines with his unique Tobago Cigar Factory. He sought the help and advice of Señor Ciro Eladio Brito Gomez, importing him from Cuba, where he had spent 40 years rolling cigars for Romeo y Julieta, among others. TOBAGO The pensioner with the sunny smile now works in the one-man factory, where to the strains of Cuban music he carefully makes Tobago’s only cigars. The rest of the island prefers to sway to traditional calypso rhythms or the more modern sound of ragga. What both have in common is the native drums, which were brought here from the homeland of the large part of the population descended from African slaves. Together with the ringing sound of the steel drums, this results in a kind of cheerful blues: melancholy, optimistic and in tune with the heart. This broad spectrum of music comes together every Sunday at the biggest liming on the island at Buccoo. The legendary Sunday School is a giant street festival, which gets underway at nine in the evening and lasts until daybreak. Young and old, white and black dance to a fusion of calypso, reggae and ragga. Strange games of chance, goat and crab races and lots of rum add to the vibrant mood, so that some participants take until Tuesday to awaken from their trance. (Fleming had an easy time inventing some of his 007 scenes.) Almost every week the German sculptor Luise Kimme tanks up on fresh energy by going dancing at the Sunday School. Since 1979 the native of Düsseldorf has lived on a windy hill with a view of the sea, where she creates her wooden statues. Her impressive, palatial house is open to visitors like a museum, and Tobago has even named a road after her. Her latest figures are inspired by the Santa Rita rituals on Cuba – an island that she finds increasingly attractive. The sprightly 65-year-old hasn’t decided yet whether it’s time to head for new shores. But one thing’s certain: she’ll really miss liming with her neighbours. TOBAGO Lauda Air fliegt jeden Dienstag direkt von Wien nach Tobago. / Lauda Air flies every Tuesday directly from Vienna to Tobago.
Seite 1 und 2: TOBAGO Liming in the sun Trotz Inte
Seite 3 und 4: From Cuba with Love: Ciro Eladio Br
Seite 5: Herz, Lunge und Wasserreservoir von

038-051 tobago j

Erfolgreiche ePaper selbst erstellen

Template löschen?

Als Template speichern?