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B.Tan Overview of the Turkish Textile and Apparel Industry 22 Table 18. Turkish Textile Exports to USA in Quota-Restricted Categories (1999) Category Content Quota Level Quota Filled (%) 200 Yarns put up for retail sale and sewing thread 1,843,054 kg 19.5% 219 Duck 43,680,621 m2 71.8% 300/301 Carded cotton yarn, Combed cotton yarn 10,588,966 kg 88.0% 313 Sheeting 51,775,602 m2 3.5% 314 Poplin&broadcloth 31,061,775 m2 0.8% 315 Printcloth 41,739,262 m2 0.5% 317 Twills 43,680,621 m2 15.3% 326 Sateens 4,853,401 m2 8.4% 361 Made-up Sheets 2,431,329 No 85.5% 369-S Other cotton manufactures 2,263,146 Kg 83.3% Woven fabric, MMF fabric woven, containing 410/624 more than 15% but less than 36% wool 1,119,683 M2 Yarn containing 85% or more by weight synthetic 76.0% 604 staple fiber 2,311,800 Kg 53.3% 611 Woven fabric containing 85% or more by weight artificial staple 57,834,003 M2 13.9% 617 Twills&sateens 29,120,416 M2 3.1% Poplin&broad cloth of staple/filament fiber 625 combination 8,908,799 M2 55.6% 626 Print cloth of staple/filament fiber combination 7,865,424 M2 12.9% 627 Sheeting of staple/filament fiber combinations 7,865,424 M2 0.3% Twills&sateens of staple/filament fiber 628 combinations 7,865,424 M2 1.5% 629 Other fabrics of staple/filament fiber combinations 7,865,424 M2 5.7% Source: US Customs Service Textile Status Report, 31.12.1999 Table 19. Turkish Apparel Exports to USA in Quota-Restricted Categories Category Content Quota Level Quota (dozens) Filled (%) 335 W&G coats 387,457 15.8% 336/636 Dresses 912,676 26.8% 338/339/63 M&B knit shirts, W&G knit shirts&blouses, M&B 8 knitshirts 6,448,741 98.0% 340/640 M&B shirts, not knit 1,489,429 10.0% 341/641 W&G shirts&blouses, not knit 1,638,402 14.8% 342/642 Skirts M&B trousers, breeches&shorts, W&G trousers, 1,015,998 22.5% 347/348 breeches&shorts 6,522,707 45.5% 350 Robes, dressing gowns,etc 651,136 85.9% 351/651 Nightwear and pajamas 1,167,155 92.8% 352/652 Underwear 3,052,871 69.5% 448 W&G trousers, breeches&shorts 38,420 38.0% Source: US Customs Service Textile Status Report, 31.12.1999
B.Tan Overview of the Turkish Textile and Apparel Industry 23 3. . Production Capacity and and Utilization Turkey is currently one of the top ten countries in terms of its capacity in fabric spinning and weaving. It accounts for 2.78% of the world’s capacity and 41.45% of the Europe’s capacity in ring spinning in short staples, 4.44% of the world’s capacity and 10.15% of the Europe’s capacity in long staples. It also accounts for 4.62% of the world’s capacity and 9.26% of the Europe’s capacity in open-end rotors [9]. Table 20. Textile Machinery Capacity (1996) Share of the Installed Capacity (units) World Europe Short Staple Spindles 4,544,000 2.78% 41.45% Long Staple Spindles 743,000 4.44% 10.15% Open End Rotors 349,800 4.62% 9.26% Shuttle-less looms 18,000 2.65% 6.39% Shuttle Loom 40,000 2.34% 41.43% Filament looms 3,000 0.50% 6.78% Wool looms 6,250 4.16% 10.67% Source: ITMF International Textile Machinery shipment Statistics 1997 [17] Before the announcement of the customs union on January 1, 1996, the textile and apparel industry invested heavily in production capacity and technology with the expectation that exports to Europe would increase substantially after the customs union. This expectation brought substantial investment in textile machinery (Table 21). Table 21. Textile Machinery Imports (Million $) 1989 1992 1995 1996 1997 1998 408 834 1,544 2,362 1,989 1,345 Source: State Institute of Statistics reports (1998) During the three-year period before the customs union, the ring spinning capacity increased by 10.6% to 4.5 million spindles in the short staple sector, and increased by 5.53% to 740,000 spindles in the long staple sector. Similarly, open-end fabric spinning capacity increased by 79.2% to 350000 rotors, and the number of shuttle-less looms increased by 65% to 18,000. Especially in the open-end production, the new investments created excess capacity
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