Foraging for Flavor Greek Herbs/Bean Cuisine / Spa ... - Kerasma

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OTHER REGIONAL BEANS Greece's northern clime, with its ample rainfall and rich soil is conducive to bean production, but other regions in the country, especially some of the islands, are known for their excellent A GIANT IN EVERY WAY But by far, the one Greek legume that stands above all others, as standard fare on taverna menus, as an ambassador of the elegant simplicity of the best Greek cooking, and as fodder for modern chefs, is quality old-world varieties. Santorini, for example, with its dry climate, and calciumrich, porous soil, is particularly conducive to the production of yellow split peas, called fava in Greek. Arguably, Santorini's fava, tiny, pale yellow, and almost chalky, as if to evince the island's volcanic soil, is one of the most “haute” of Greece's regional legumes. This topquality yellow split pea melts when boiled into a delicious, velvety puree. Although yellow split pea puree is common the Greek giant bean, gigantes. Boiled then baked in a rich tomato sauce until the skin becomes crispy while the bean retains its buttery softness, gigantes are one of the all-time favorite Greek dishes. They are also extremely versa- There are six Greek bean varieties acknowledged by The European Union as products of Protected Geographic Indication. 24 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER fare all over Greece, typically served with raw onions and olive oil, it has been the staple food on the island for eons. It is also the stuff of contemporary Santorini cuisine. Chefs turn the humble yellow split pea into fritters, sauces, pie tile. Fine Greek restaurants might serve them as an accompaniment to charred octopus, with nothing more than a simple dressing of olive oil, vinegar, salt, and oregano. In my cooking classes we've
crusts, and luscious purees, served forth in martini glasses and terrines, and garnished with everything from seafood to capers to kiwis. An even rarer and much less commercial regional legume is the tiny, delicate, pale boiled, skewered, and rolled them in bread crumbs before frying them in olive oil as a tasty meze, and I have encouraged my students to add them to the classic Greek salad of tomatoes, cucumbers, onions, and feta. brown lentil cultivated in the high altitude village of Englovis on the Ionian island of Lefkada, where the mild temperatures allow for its early harvest. Local cooks simply boil lentils with garlic, oregano, and olive oil and press them against the sides of the pot until they are mashed, adding just enough water to make a thick creamy soup. A very popular Old World bean is the kouki, or large, green broad bean, which Americans Certain preparations, such as soups and some of the heartier stews, are seasonal, winter dishes, but by and large most Greek bean dishes know no season and are delicious year-round. They may also be served at room tempera- typically call fava beans. Crete, especially the island's moderately wet Lasithi plateau, is known for its broad beans, but so are Alexandroupoli and Halkidiki in northeastern Greece, Ioannina in the northwest, and Corfu. ture when cooked on their own with olive oil. Contemporary chefs are rediscovering legumes as a way to offer healthy menu items but also as a way to play with the textures, colors, and flavors of these versatile ingredients. 25 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
Page 1: Foraging for Flavor Greek Herbs/Bea
Page 4 and 5: LETTER FROM THE PRESIDENT OF HEPO W
Page 6 and 7: RAPID DEFICIT REDUCTION • Deficit
Page 8 and 9: GreekGourmetraveler Greek Food, Win
Page 11 and 12: “If you don't have mint, you have
Page 13 and 14: But an infusion of bay leaves can a
Page 15 and 16: prized dill so highly that the stat
Page 17: 17 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
Page 20 and 21: Beans and legumes have always been
Page 22 and 23: soaked in salt water and roasted in
Page 27 and 28: Does the thought of Spa Cuisine con
Page 29 and 30: ing and connoisurs by storm. "Spa f
Page 31 and 32: 31 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
Page 34 and 35: Marinated Sea Bream Grande Bretagne
Page 36 and 37: Tomato Salad Life Gallery Spa, Chef
Page 38: Of all the contemporary depictions
Page 41 and 42: depart this life, as they have prov
Page 43 and 44: to the priest not to open the door
Page 47 and 48: Nothing conjures up the dreamy imag
Page 49 and 50: pea, whereas in others, like Santor
Page 51 and 52: milk cheese from Santorini, can be
Page 54 and 55: Tandoori and carpaccio are two type
Page 56 and 57: I can say this now, after a decade
Page 58 and 59: pleasing, aromatic reds and rosés
Page 60 and 61: strating in the process that there
Page 62: GREEK ROSÉS Consumption of rosé w
Page 66 and 67: Cherries, apricots, peaches, and fi
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Page 70: that allows us, as growers, to give
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Village Salad is quintessentially G
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their juices with olive oil before
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Greek Salad Napoleon with Basil Ice
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Village Salad Soup 1. Prepare the t
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Village Salad Gazpacho with Feta Ic
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V. Stenos / D. Brown
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Salad with Chickpeas and Smoked Tro
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Lentil-Chickpea Burgers in Potato C
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Cod with Giant Beans and Green Pepp
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Giant Beans with Mackerel 1. Spread
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94 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
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Yogurt Soup with Cucumber and Mint
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Herb-Stuffed Sardines 1. Clean, was
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Crisp Cuttlefish with Salty Semolin
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Cretan Dakos with Ouzo Jelly Chef C
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Ikarian Marinated Octopus and Eggpl
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Lamb Baked with Mint Sauce and Oliv
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Rocket, Watermelon, and Asparagus S
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Melon Souvlaki with Feta Ice Cream
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Watermelon Pie Chef Stelios Parliar
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Grape Cream Chef Stelios Parliaros
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