Foraging for Flavor Greek Herbs/Bean Cuisine / Spa ... - Kerasma

ders and responds: “What are you
fretting about? That bird's not an
edible one!”
In yet another passage from Report
to Greco Kazantzakis mentions a
laurel wreath awarded to him for a
university saber-fencing victory. At
that time, he was planning to travel
around Europe with a friend,
who suggested they should take
the laurel wreath up north with
them, as the leaves would be indispensable
for stifàdo, a slowbraised,
spiced ragout of meat,
tomatoes, and onions. After a twoyear
stint in Germany, all the laurel
leaves (and tokens of his victory)
were gone, sacrificed on the altar
of many successive stifàdos.
It is not accidental that Crete is
called Megalonisos, the big island,
for its largesse extends not only to
physical size (it is the fifth largest
island in the Mediterranean) but
to its spirit and its people, who
regale you with stories—and
meals—larger than life. Even the
smallest of gestures evince that
spirit, from the impromptu offering
of a shot-glass (or two) of tsikoudia,
the fiery grape distillate
each Cretan house is amply
stocked with, to the offering of a
glyko tou koutaliou, fruit preserve,
44 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
Dimitris Charisiadis © Benaki Museum Archive
upon visiting any Cretan at home.
Even small things will be offered
with a richness of gesture. But the
guest has a reciprocal responsibility,
too. Once you have satisfied
your hunger and thirst, don't be
surprised if you hear your host
utter a variation of this Homeric
turn of phrase:
We opened our door for you, we offered
you water to clean up, and have put
plenty of food and drink before you.
Now, it's your turn to delight us by
telling us who you are, who your family
is, where you come from, and what
you saw and experienced in this journey
that has led you to our table.
Nelly’s © Benaki Museum Archive